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Pickling and preserving has been a nourishing facet of the Southern

9 September



Even with a boom in the popularity of preserving and pickling, we are losing ground to the grocery store. This is the

table for centuries. This “putting

malaise of convenience. The aisles provide

up” practice has long demarcated

a homogenized landscape to our palates,

the seasons, reminding us that to have tomatoes in December, we had better get working in August.

where everything is always available. I love reminding people about that moment in early fall when the apples of northeast Georgia burst onto the scene. It’s then that I get antsy for Arkansas

Filling the pantry with chow chow, okra, dilly beans and cukes is hard work, but the

Blacks, my favorite varietal of apple from a local farm in Elberton, Ga.

redemption comes in February when you are able to eat a little bit of summer with

The process is so basic, so tried and true.

your wintery supper.

I pick up the phone and talk to Bill. Bill goes and gets the apples and brings them to Athens. I buy said apples. It’s a glorious relationship that happens every year and results in canned treasures of conserves, apple butters and chutneys.

P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y S T E P H E N H A M I LT O N |

R E C I P E S & E S S AY S B Y H U G H A C H E S O N & PA U L V I R A N T




Who's Hungry? Magazine | Late Summer 2012 | No 3  

Blending the worlds of food and photography, the magazine features travel stories and recipes from top food writers, as well as styling tips...

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