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FEBRU A R Y 2 0 14

PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE 速

FALL IN LOVE WITH PARIS

FASHION

CULTURE

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ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

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the team |

[ o c to b e r i n Pa r i s ]

where PariS

35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 Fax: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 57

WHERE PARIS PROJECT IS ENDORSED BY

PUBLISHER and General manager

Pascal Tranchant Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42 pascal.tranchant@morriseurope.com EDITOR Sandra Iskander*

Sandra Iskander [Editor]

GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton Designers

Lee Henry, Shia-Ying Wallis PRODUCTION MANAGER/london Melanie Needham SENIOR PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Jennifer Bourne PRODUCTION ASSISTANT David Weeks CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

From Paris with Love

Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*

The French capital comes alive in February with romance punctuating everything from dinner dates to the city’s iconic monuments. Whether you are here alone, with friends or on a romantic trip with your partner, Paris will sweep you off your feet with its fabulously romantic spirit.

Designer and WEB DESIGNER Laura Zaharia*

Designer and production Manager Céline Février*

advertising - SENIOR account managers

Corinne Durant*, Jana Herrmann* advertising - account managerS

Delphine Ivanchenko* DISTRIBUTION AND HOTEL SERVICES MANAGER

Suzanne Tang* SALES & MARKETING ASSISTANT

With Valentine’s Day just around the corner we know many of our readers will be looking for original and romantic ideas to help celebrate. Our feature Paris, Je t’aime is our gift to you, bringing you everything from classic to surprising date ideas. In this issue we also put the spotlight on Chantal Thomass, the talented French lingerie designer and bring you her little black book of Parisian addresses as well as give you a sneak peek at her latest lingerie collection. We also introduce you to Laetitia CohenSkalli, the name behind jewellery house RedLine, and discover how the simple red bracelet found on every fashionista’s wrist first came to be. Paris’s secret passageways are also uncovered this month. Housing beautiful boutiques and museums, the elegant passageways hidden within the city make for a perfect covered outdoor visit. And if you’re looking for gifts to surprise your partner with on February the 14th then turn to page 18 for our top selection of gift ideas for him and for her.

Jennifer Groult* OFFICE MANAGER Emmanuelle Marquet* *E-MAIL FOR ALL OF THE ABOVE firstname.lastname@wheremagazine.com

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

MVP i EUROPE maNAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

MVP i EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler

MVP i CREATIVE CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines Wilkerson DESIGN DIRECTOR Jane Frey CREATIVE COORDINATOR Beverly Mandelblatt

MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS Chairman & CEO William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 54,080 (OJD 2013). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: février 2014. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

where PariS supports:

We hope you enjoy this issue and your romantic stay in Paris.

Published by the Visitor Publications division of Morris Communications Company, LLC 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901

4  W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2014

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PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM

CONTENTS

6

14

[THE GUIDE] 16 SHOPPING

The city’s latest boutique openings, trends and address book for everything fashion 40 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

This month’s round-up of exhibits, tradeshows and must-see monuments 48 DINING

40

Our selection of restaurants for every mood and every taste, from classic French to exotic Asian 66 ENTERTAINMENT

This month’s hottest bars, clubs and ballets

PADLOCKS PHOTO © BENOIT JACQUELIN/THINKSTOCK; DIADÈME PHOTO: N.WELSH, COLLECTION CARTIER © CARTIER

76 NAVIGATE

Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings FEBRU A R Y 2 0 14

PA R IS M ON T H LY C I T YGU I DE ®

8

FALL IN LOVE WITH PARIS

06 Hot Dates This month’s calendar of hot dates

08 Paris, Je t’aime We show you what makes the French capital the Romantic Capital, with its iconic monuments and its avant-garde rendezvous addresses for lovers

10 The Passageways

of Paris

Discover the winding labyrinths hidden within the city

14 The Thin Red Line Meet the young designer behind the accessory of choice of all fashionistas

FASHION

CULTURE

ART

DINING

ENTERTAINMENT

MAPS

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ON THE COVER

Photographers: Dana & Stéphane Maitec Model: Dorothy Constantin Jacket and skirt: Dior Hat: Gabriela Dumitran Millinery Make-up: Diana Ionescu Hair: Alina Marinita CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

Facebook.com/whereparismagazine Twitter.com/whereparis

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[FEBRUAR Y IN PAR IS]

FRIDAY

28 CHAMPAGNE AND CAVIAR

Celebrate the good life with a glass of champagne and caviar at Prince de Galles Hotel’s intimate Jardin d’Hiver, a covered and heated courtyard with beautiful mosaic detailing. 33 ave George V (8th), 01 53 23 77 77

FEBRUARY

HOT DATES 4 8 TUESDAY

BEAUTY AND THE BEAST

Watch Belle and the Beast tell the classic Disney story and fall in love with the fairytale that stole everyone’s heart. Playing at 8pm at Théâtre Mogador, 25 rue de Mogador (9th). Tickets at www.labelleetlabete.fr or call 08 20 88 87 86. Please note that the musical is performed in French.

SATURDAY

PERSONAL SCENTS Dedicated entirely to French cologne, visit Atelier Cologne’s new boutique in the Marais. Choose a scent to suit you and get its leather case personalised by having your name or initials engraved on it. 15 rue Debelleyme (3rd), 01 44 61 44 39

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[ H O T D AT E S ] sunday

16

Time for tea Stop for afternoon tea at the chic Mariage Frères tea salon in the Marais neighbourhood where you can sample their new love potions, Beautiful Tea and Sexy Tea. 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (4th), 01 42 72 28 11

TUESday

11

A MUSICAL DATE Take in live music as you enjoy contemporary fare at Bus Palladium, a restaurant, bar and concert space. 6 rue Fontaine (9th), 01 45 26 80 35. Reservations are advised.

WEDNESDAY

FRIDAY

14

Valentine’s Day

Celebrate Valentine’s Day and help a good cause by buying the Lanvin dressed teddy bear from Marionnaud with its proceeds going to CEW, an association offering free beauty treatments to hospital patients. Available at all Marionnaud boutiques including the recently reopened boutique on the Champs-Elysées. 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 53 96 50 00

12

A moment of serenity Wind down with an Ella Baché Infusion de Sérénité body massage. Lasting 50 minutes, the “serenity infusion” body treatment can be enjoyed as a duo or solo and uses the brand’s Huile de Beauté that features 36 fruit extracts including tomato and mandarin, leaving you completely relaxed and ready to enjoy the City of Love. 8 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 42 61 67 14 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. c o m   7

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Paris

Je t’a i There is no better place in the world to celebrate Valentine’s Day, or any romantic occasion, than in the City of Love.

P

aris has always been regarded as the most romantic destination in the world with its gorgeous architecture, romantic music and its seductive French language. It has long been used as a backdrop in many romantic movies, real life encounters and the destination to countless proposals. This month we show you what makes the French capital the Romantic Capital, with its iconic monuments and its avant-garde rendezvous addresses for lovers. You cannot visit Paris in February, the most romantic month of the year and not see the Eiffel Tower. One of the most famous monuments in

the world that always brings images of love and romance to the minds of lovers is best seen at sunset from Place de la Concorde. It is equally breathtaking seen from Place du Trocadéro in the evening when it sparkles like a jewel every hour on the hour when hundreds of light bulbs light it up from top to bottom. Paris is also known for its many bridges, but none are more romantic than Pont Marie and Pont des Arts. When passing beneath Pont Marie on a boat, you should close your eyes, make a wish and kiss the person next to you. Could there be a more romantic journey on the

Seine? The Pont des Arts, a pedestrian bridge, has unofficially become the Lovers’ Bridge, and it is where many couples declare their love by engraving or writing their names on a padlock and locking it to the bridge’s railings. While technically French chocolate is not a monument per se it definitely is something to be experienced while visiting the French capital and with chocolate being a popular gift between couples, this is the perfect time to discover Alain Ducasse’s artisanal chocolate. He is the master chef, known the world-over for his talent in the kitchen, winning him 3-Michelin star restaurants around the world, and now Ducasse is taking his savoir-faire to the humble cocoa bean and creating delicious chocolate. In his atelier you

KISS ROOM BY MATHIAS KISS PHOTO © DAVID ZAGDOUN

BY SA N D R A ISK A N D ER

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[FEBRUAR Y IN PAR IS]

PADLOCKS PHOTO © BENOIT JACQUELIN/THINKSTOCK; ALAIN DUCASSE CHOCOLATES © PIERRE MONETTA; ROYAL MONCEAU THEATRE © ROYAL MONCEAU-RAFFLES PARIS

KISS ROOM BY MATHIAS KISS PHOTO © DAVID ZAGDOUN

me will find the finest chocolate bars and bonbons made from cocoa beans procured from around the world including beans from Venezuela, Madagascar and Peru, creating a 44-chocolate bar collection. While his bonbons, including traditional pralines and a caramel-flavoured ganache, are a sweet way to say “I Love You”. Paris has been long regarded as a cultural hub with talented artists welcomed to showcase their avant-garde works to the awaiting public. And now you can be one of the first to experience a unique installation by award-winning artist, Mathias Kiss. Behind the popular bar La Perle, waits the Kiss Room. The ephemeral hotel room, covered entirely in mirrors is the work of Mathias, who over the past

few years has become quite intrigued by mirrors and reflections. Covered with 1000 mirrors, the Kiss Room is an art installation operating as a one-room hotel that you can reserve online only and makes quite the V-Day gift. It is arguably the most classic of dates you can organise but the Royal Monceau has given the old dinner and a movie clichéd date quite the chic twist. Every Sunday at 6.30pm you can step into the hotel’s VIP theatre where you will be served a glass of champagne and Pierre Hermé’s gourmet caramel popcorn to enjoy as you watch a special screening of an old Hollywood classic. West Side Story, the romantic Pretty Woman, Titanic and Four Weddings and a Funeral are all scheduled to screen this month

as part of the Sunday Night Film Club, but make sure you reserve as early as possible as the theatre only seats 99. ALAIN DUCASSE  LA MANUFACTURE DE CHOCOLAT 40 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01 48 05 82 86 KISS ROOM 78 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd) www.lakissroom.com ROYAL MONCEAU To reserve movie seats call 01 42 99 98 80 37 ave Hoche (8th) www.leroyalmonceau.com/art-district/ w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. c o m 9

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[ F E B R U A R Y i n P ar i s ]

THE Passageways

Passage des Panoramas and Passage Jouffroy photos © Paris Tourist Office - Marc Bertrand; Passage Jouffroy (bottom photo) © Paris Tourist Office - Thomas Sanson

of paris B

Some are winding labyrinths while others are reminiscent of perfectly straight streets, but they are all invitations to a particularly Parisian promenade.

BY PATRICIA VALICENTI

e they akin to winding labyrinths, perfectly straight streets or hidden short cuts, they are all invitations to a particularly Parisian promenade. The city’s covered passageways house both high and low end boutiques, the offbeat, old bookshops, art galleries, stamp shops, restaurants and even a hotel. Strollers and people with a purpose snake their way through these ways, there are about 20 still in existence. Alternatively named “passage” or “galerie”, they are “covered” with glass roofs, which prompt the light to vary depending upon the weather, time of day and time of year. Each has its own personality and ambiance linked to its history or those who frequent it. The passages of Paris were essentially constructed during two relatively brief time periods, the first from 1823 to 1828 and a second phase from 1839 to 1847. They reached their peak during the Restoration (1814-1830) offering a haven for pedestrians from the traffic, bad weather and the streets themselves, which at the time lacked sidewalks and sewers and overflowed with carriages and mud when it rained. They have over the decades fallen in and out of fashion but are always worthy of a visit. The covered passageways of Paris remain architectural treasures of glass, steel and fabulous décor. They are seemingly worlds that have been hermetically sealed off from the capital, offering a bewitching alternative in terms of goods, fare and diversion. This other worldliness is particularly prominent in and around the Grands Boulevards where the passageways alternatively house a Hall of Mirrors, a two-star restaurant, a cane shop, a tea salon serving homemade cakes and lemonade and even a cosy hotel where the rooms still have big heavy keys. Among the great passageways of the “Boulevards” are the Panoramas and Jouffroy. Here in the 19th century the tout Paris would

Passage Jouffroy

exhibit their wealth as bankers, writers, artists and theatre people frequented these hidden networks. The Passage des Panoramas, which dates back to 1799, built outside of the peak in passageway construction, today is a philatelist’s paradise and one of the oldest of the city’s passageways. Welcoming pedestrians for over two centuries now, it snakes you under cover from the Boulevard Montmartre to the rue Saint-Marc and along the way you’ll cross over the Galerie des Variétés, in which you will find the theatre of the same name, the Galeries Montmartre, Feydeau and Saint-Marc. In the Panoramas at number 53 is also where you will find the appropriately named restaurant Passage 53. The Michelin starred restaurant

serves superb French cuisine highlighting excellent products and produce. For a more modest meal or snack, you will find the La Crêperie at number 62. And don’t miss the old and attractive stamp shops that pepper the passageway with their presence while for the inveterate collector of whatever, there is a unique shop, Au Matériel de Collections at number 54, carrying books, folders and cases and to organise your favourite collection. Meanwhile, across the Boulevard, one can journey into the Passage Jouffroy where the spectacular wax museum, the Musée Grévin, replete with its Hall of Mirrors and French and international personalities awaits the visitor. It remains the leading attraction of the passageway still today as it was yesterday when

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Passage des Panoramas

it opened in 1882 on a lot adjacent to the current location. Jouffroy, built in 1847, is one of the city’s younger passageways and is named for its architect M. Jouffroy, the son of the Marquis Jouffroy d’Abbans. Heated from the ground, it was a favourite promenade, away from the legendary Parisian dampness. The gallery’s toy, gift and book shops seem to reach out from another time like when the passageway’s underground played host to a ballroom, which then became a puppet theatre and in 1860 the Séraphine, a shadow play puppetry theatre, whose “actors” were 60 centimetres high. Over at number 30 is a cosy tea salon, Le Valentin, serving homemade lemonade, cakes, jams and candies and fabulous photographs

can be found at number 45 at Photo Verdeau. And don’t miss the family-style Hôtel Chopin at number 46 with its big, heavy rooms keys and potted plants. And for a dose of the incognito, you can duck out the Passage Jouffroy the back way and head into the Passage Verdeau across the street to embark on your own new adventure. Passage des Panoramas 10 rue St-Marc/11 blvd Montmartre (2nd) M° Richelieu-Drouot Passage Jouffroy 10-12 blvd Montmartre/ 9 rue de la Grande-Batelière (9th) M° Richelieu-Drouot

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[FEBRUAR Y IN PAR IS]

12 W H E R E PA R I S I F E B R UA R Y 2014

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THE

BOUDOIR QUEEN BY SANDRA ISKANDER

© ELLEN VON UNWERTH PHOTO OF MODELS © ELLEN VON UNWERTH

It was in 1975 that Chantal Thomass introduced her first lingerie line. At a time when lingerie was basic and functional in design, Thomass overlooked the “masculine” perception of lingerie and she played with silk and frills. She “dressed” up the bra and corset and she later dreamt up the lace pantyhose. “I played with what is underneath like what is on top, revealing and veiling with lace and sensual transparencies”, explains the playful designer. And it was in that same year that she launched her very own lingerie label. Shortly after, she opened her first boutique in the heart of Paris, which has since become the famous boudoir ladies visit for sexy lingerie. Today, Chantal Thomass, with her signature black bob and trademark red lipstick, continues to bring sexy to the bedroom, she even recently designed beds for Treca, the bedding company, complete with lace detailing and bed legs shaped like stilettos. Playing with basic black as well as with natural, subdued hues, Thomass’s latest Spring/Summer lingerie line features different collections and themes, offering every lady a kind of sexy that best suits her. The Obsession line features corset detailing with cheeky cut-out designs in black while the Noeuds et Merveilles line features printed bows in leopard print. The Rockin’ Joséphine pieces are a combination of fun and sexy with the Eiffel Tower adorning the sexy slips while the Secret d’Alcôve embodies ultra-feminine delicates with fine lacing making up the 8-piece collection.

CHANTAL’S LIT TLE BL ACK BOOK When she is not designing sexy lingerie and bedding, Chantal Thomass loves to shop, scour antique stores and she enjoys good food. The talented designer opened up her little black book and gave us a peek at some of her favourite addresses in the French capital.

• The Cristal Room restaurant in the Baccarat Museum

• Hotel Costes’s courtyard restaurant • Didier Ludot’s vintage boutiques in Palais Royal

• Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen (The Paris flea market)

• Ma Cocotte restaurant hidden in the flea market

• Ralph Lauren’s restaurant, Ralph’s • Chanel • Colette and L’Eclaireur multi-brand boutiques

• Ladurée (from where she likes to collect their limited edition gift boxes)

Boutique Chantal Thomass 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 42 60 40 56 w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m 13

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[FEBRUAR Y IN PAR IS]

The thin red line BY SA N D R A ISK A N D ER

What originally began as a school project has now become an A-list must-have accessory. RedLine jewellery designer Laetitia Cohen-Skalli first launched the brand as part of her Master’s project where she was to create and market a brand. With a remarkably positive reception to her fictitious collection, Laetitia decided to launch RedLine in the real world. Inspired by the belief that a red string protects and brings luck to its wearers, Laetitia decided to create her jewellery line around the now famous red string, and smartly just added a diamond to bring it to life. Each bracelet’s clasp is also engraved with the letters KA, representing Ancient Egypt’s belief that the letter K brings peacefulness, serenity, calmness and harmony. And so Laetitia’s success came with chic simplicity, adorning wrists with not only a pretty bracelet but also bringing luck to her clients. The RedLine bracelet has now become a cult accessory with people from around the world, including Hollywood celebrities,

making appointments at Laetitia’s atelier in the heart of Paris to personalise their red string. With the good luck high-end bracelet’s unique feature being the strength of the string itself, being very resistant and almost unbreakable, a RedLine bracelet makes for a perfect piece of jewellery to wear all the time, making it a piece of yourself. Made by hand in the rue Saint-Honoré atelier, each bracelet is created with care and attention, and can be designed with more than one diamond or even different stones. And now you can even choose different coloured strings to suit your personal style and your mood. Expanding the jewellery line, the talented designer now also offers her clients gold bracelets, rings, a men’s line as well as a sweet collection for children, and always designing around the idea of spirituality and harmony. RedLine (By appointment only) 161 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 44 64 92 24 RedLine jewellery is also available at Printemps and Galeries Lafayette.

Where does the talented designer, who brings her clients luck, like to go in Paris?

• The Louvre Museum • The Tuileries Garden • Café Marly • Saut de Loup Restaurant • Palais Royal • Canal Saint-Martin • The Sunken Chip Fish and Chips Restaurant • L’Inconnu Bar • Le Square Trousseau Restaurant

Sarah Jessica Parker wearing a RedLine necklace

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DISCOVER A PLACE WHERE THE FINEST BOUTIQUES OFFER MINIMUM REDUCTIONS OF 33%* WITH SPECIAL OFFERS OF EXTRA SAVINGS† AND TAX-FREE SHOPPING‡ HOME TO 115 BOUTIQUES INCLUDING ARMANI · DIANE VON FURSTENBERG · JIMMY CHOO · KENZO · LONGCHAMP MARNI · PAUL & JOE · PAUL SMITH · SALVATORE FERRAGAMO · SUPERDRY SONIA RYKIEL · TOD’S · UGG AND MANY MORE †

-10% for any purchase in three of your favourite boutiques (upon presentation of your Shopping Express® ticket at the Welcome Center) when travelling from Paris (ParisCityVision agency / Metro Pyramides) with the Shopping Express® (35 minutes). Book online at LaValleeVillage.com/shoppingexpress or call the ParisCityVision agency on +33 (0)1 44 55 60 00.

*and sometimes more off the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections. ‡Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund of at least 12% on purchases of more than €175 per boutique. © La Vallée Village 2013

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W h e r e pa r i s

The Guide SHOPPING BY SA N D RA ISK A N D ER

Fashion comes to

the Louvre The city’s famous department store, Printemps, has just opened a fabulous branch in the Carrousel du Louvre. The store is an accessories haven complete with limited edition IT bags exclusive to the upmarket store including Givenchy’s Shark Lock clutch bag and Longchamp’s 3D tote bag. Under the iconic glass pyramid of the Louvre museum, you will also find exquisite timepieces including Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona and Hermès’s Arceau Petite Lune. Open daily Printemps du Louvre is now a must-see attraction at the Louvre, after the Mona Lisa of course! 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 76 77 41 00

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[SHOPPING]

MAISON GUERLAIN Guerlain’s iconic boutique on the avenue des ChampsElysées has finally reopened. In a majestic setting, complete with helium bees, an imperial symbol, adorning the ceiling designed by artist Gérard Cholot, the boutique comes alive with the house’s myriad of perfumes and beauty products. The mythical boutique also boasts a spa, Institut Guerlain, where you can spoil yourself with made-to-measure treatments, and Le 68 Guy Martin, Maison Guerlain’s restaurant where you can sample Michelin-starred chef Guy Martin’s cuisine. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 45 62 52 57 Call 01 45 62 11 21 for the spa and 01 45 62 54 10 for all restaurant reservations.

Les Cerises de Mars’s FA S H I O N IS JUST A FIRST BOUTIQUE NUMBER

Three years after launching their very successful hair accessory brand, Les Cerises de Mars, Macha de Catheu and Aurélie Heulin have finally opened their first boutique in Paris. The quaint boutique in the 17th arrondissement is where you will find the brand’s famous multitasking headbands that can also be worn as necklaces and bracelets. The headbands are available in different colours and designs, including the brand’s famous bow, to suit every style and haircut. The boutique also features an atelier where Macha and Aurélie are happy to show you how you can style your hair with your new headband. 20 rue de Phalsbourg (17th),

In the hipster neighbourhood of the 3rd arrondissement find 13 Bonaparte, the brand created by David Sarfati, who doesn’t believe in seasonal collections for men but believes in building a contemporary wardrobe. His collections are numbered not labelled after the season and the year, with his latest collection, Collection 3, focusing on mixing and matching midseason pieces, simplicity and functionality. Neutral tones dominate the collection with hues of blue and khaki breaking up the staple colours that are a must in every gentleman’s wardrobe. 2bis rue de Normandie (3rd), 01 42 71 83 15

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W H E R E PA R I S

A SEXY PRINCESS

VALENTINES GIFTS

Treat your ladylove to a lacy lingerie set from French brand Princesse Tam Tam. 4 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01 45 48 27 49

BEE MY LOVE Diamonds are a girl’s best friend and nothing says “I love you” quite like Chaumet’s Bee My Love ring collection. 12 place Vendôme (1st), 01 44 77 26 26

FOR HER GOLDEN STEPS Keep her feet wrapped up in gold and waterproof with a pair of Hunter boots. Available at Galeries Lafayette, 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01 42 82 34 56

LADY IN RED Keep her warm in this cherry red Burberry coat. 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01 72 07 00 21

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[SHOPPING]

POSH AND POLISHED For the man who loves to shine with every step he takes, this Prestige case from John Lobb complete with polish, wax and buffing glove is a great gift. 21 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 42 65 24 45

PARIS FOREVER Give him the City of Love with this Paris Forever pen from S.T. Dupont designed by Philippe Tournaire, featuring the city’s famous monuments including the Arc de Triomphe, the Notre Dame and of course the Eiffel Tower. 58 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 45 61 08 39

SPELL IT WITH CHOCOLATE

FOR HIM

Tell him how you feel with Jadis et Gourmande’s chocolate boxes that you can personalise with your own message using chocolate letters. 27 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01 42 65 23 23

RIDING ALONG For your sport-loving man, keep him spinning with this retro bike from Shinola. Exclusively sold at Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01 55 35 33 90

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20  W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2014

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❁Balenciaga

❁St Honoré Paris ❁Jo Malone ❁Bonpoint

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Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : 01 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com

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PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.

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With a renowned reputation for quality and Italian craftsmanship, Dsquared2 designs, manufactures and distributes highly desirable products such as men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrances for men and women.

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❁Chanel ❁ Audemars

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Chanel Dior Marina Rinaldi ❁ ❁ ❁Ralph Wempe Lauren ❁ Lancaster ❁ Bcbgmaxazria Kenzo❁ ❁ Max Mara

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16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr

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The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.

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Roger Vivier❁ Valentino❁ Glashütte Original ❁ Corneliani ❁ Chanel❁ AMERICAN Tod’s❁ EMBASSY Cartier ❁ RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS Lady R Lanvin❁ Forrest

15/01/2014 11:31


If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 130 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces. We offer a unique selection of valuable treasures at 28 Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are especially proud because for more than a century we have been privileged to contribute to the grand feelings that our customers express when they purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-a-kind items as well as for our diverse assortment of classic pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will fi nd WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises and in New York City. Each shop also offers service or advice whenever you require it, so you can be certain that we will always be available to meet your individual needs. We cordially invite you to discover an abundance of interesting new items and exclusive special models at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We look forward to your visit!

Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LOND ON PARIS NEW YORK WEMPE.COM

We accept all credit cards.

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RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

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76 ave des Champs Elysées 76 Paris des Champs Elysées - Paris-8th 140-ave rue du8th Faubourg Saint-Honoré Paris 8th Tel: 01 42 56 18 53 Tel: 0133 42(0) 561 18 Tel: + 5353 75 48 01 www.tissot.ch; E-shop: www.tissotshop.com www.tissot.ch; E-shop: www.tissotshop.com www.emanuelberg.com

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The first European TissotThe Flagship first European store. Discover Tissot Flagship store. Discover the largest Tissot watch the collection largest Tissot available watch in collection available in Paris with more than 500 Paris with more from than their 500 references their Thereferences world of the luxury shirt has foundfrom its home traditional watch collection traditional suchRue aswatch the collection Locle such as the Le Locle at 140 du Le Faubourg Saint-Honoré. For Automatic to the most innovative Automatic todays, the most withinnovative watches with Valentine’swatches 20% off ready-to-wear and the T-Touch Expert. the T-Touch Expert. tailor-made shirts for Where readers.

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63,ave rueGeorge du Faubourg Saint Honoré - Paris 8th 14 ave George V - Paris 8th 14 V - Paris 8th By appointment at 01 47 20 By 53 appointment 5640 17 93 15 at 01 47 20 53 56 Tel: 01 - paris@vhernier.fr www.duret-paris.com www.duret-paris.com www.vhernier.com

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❁ ❁ ❁Christian ❁ Louboutin ❁ Omega RE Apostrophe Paris ❁ Marionnaud ❁ Marionnaud Paris Omega ❁ ❁ ❁ ❁Hermès ❁Etro❁ Sony -1 ER Sony❁ Hermès Eric Bompard ❁ Eric Bompard ❁ ❁Pomellato -DE -D❁ Brioni Brioni R RU ❁ ❁ ❁ E-S UE U U -SE ED ❁Barbara Bui DE ER EB EA EA ❁BBvlgari ❁ ❁ Bvlgari ❁ R B V V C C B E ER Dubail Dubail Leonard❁ Leonard ❁ R R R I I E E E E Zara Zara R RI ❁ ❁ I A A ❁ ❁ G G Zegna Zegna Ulysse Nardin Ulysse Nardin Bally ❁ R R ❁ ❁ M M Creed Creed Morgan Morgan O John Lobb❁❁Blumarine O John Lobb❁ ❁ ❁ E E Capelstore ❁ E E U U G G ❁M.A.C. ❁M.A.C. ❁ ❁Burberry EN EN UE ❁ UE Cartier Cartier❁ ❁ Crockett Jarmon Tara Jarmon❁ rry❁Levi’s N Ermenegildo ❁ Arije Arije Tara Zegna AV AV EN ❁Levi’s E ❁ ❁ e b r &Jones V V ❁ Givenchy ❁ Givenchy u B ❁LeonardArije ❁Kusmi ❁ A Kusmi U ❁ ArijeA ❁ JOTissot ❁ Tissot ❁Chaumet ❁Chaumet ❁Salvatore Ferragamo Tea TeaE❁D’AN❁ U Roger Vivier ❁ Beretta RU ❁ RU ❁Beretta R ❁ Paule Ka❁ Paule Ka❁ Givenchy Givenchy RUE RU❁ EP Heurgon E MA RUE EANJOU Tommy Tommy❁ PIE Sicis MAR Sephora ❁ ❁Sephora ❁ Sicis ❁ I ❁ E R B B R R Glashütte Original❁ ERU EUF Laurent RU ❁Saint R Hilfiger Janssens RE Hilfiger Les UFE ❁ from ❁ Beautifully tailored sport Beautifully and casual tailored wear from sport and wear ED ❁ CH ❁ ❁ Tom Ford E CHA DCorneliani ❁ casual Tom Ford Oliver ❁ & Janssens Dandys EL EL A Duret Paris Duret Paris RR RR the legendary family-owned, the legendary Italianfamily-owned, house Italian house A T Chanel ❁ AT Grant Zilli ❁Mauboussin Boucheron O❁ O ❁ ❁Mauboussin AMERICAN R RÉ❁ Balenciaga RÉ ❁ ❁❁Zilli ❁ Balenciaga N Tod’s Façonnable MO EMBASSY MO specialised in the worldspecialised of nature and in the hunting world of❁ nature and hunting ❁Guy Givenchy ❁ UE NPASQUIE ❁Laroche ❁Façonnable GuyBijoux Laroche ❁ ❁ By Marie & Gas Bijoux❁ By Marie & Gas Cartier ❁ I I R LL LL❁ ❁Hermès ❁ Kiton ❁ RU❁ Kiton RU the veryinHigh heart of theboutique. FaubourgHigh St-Honoré E E are found in this galleryIn are boutique. found thisquality, gallery quality, Corneliani ❁ Corneliani Smalto Smalto ❁ REU RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS EL ❁ RUE❁ Wolford LE Romi Liliane Romi discover more than 3,000 different clothing A M Wolford A ALMA ALMA refined accessories, stylish refined and accessories, sturdy shoes stylish and sturdyfabrics, shoes Liliane Diane Von Diane Von MA BO BO ❁Balmain ❁❁Balmain AÉR ❁ Lanvin ❁ ❁ R ❁ ❁ all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture Berluti Berluti ❁ Lanvin B B TIE Furstenberg Furstenberg Louis Louis ÉTIE MARCEAU MARCEAU and boots and gear forand the boots great outdoors and gear for are the great outdoors are E ❁ ❁ E U U ❁ Courrèges ❁ Courrèges F Baccarat F Pion Pion designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also ❁ Zadig & Voltaire ❁ hallmarks of the brand. hallmarks of the brand. ❁Bottega Veneta Zadig & Voltaire ❁ Charles Charles Valentino Valentino recommend one of 40 local seamstresses. ❁Loro Piana & Joe AJourdan Jourdan ❁ ❁by One ❁ Wine Wine by One ❁ 57 rue Pierre Charron - Paris 57 8th rue Pierre Charron - ParisPaul 8th & Joe AVE ❁ Paul V ❁ E Harry ❁ Harry ❁ RU RU ❁Prada Pink 3 rue Paris Cerruti Tel: 01 56 88 59 59 Tel:d’Anjou 01 56 88- 59 598th (Corner 46 Fbg St Honoré) Winston Thomas E NAN MADELEINE E ❁ NUE Winston Thomas ❁ NUPink AN E N Pinko ❁ DU DU 1881 G Tel: 01 42 65 04 00 I IG Armani ❁ R R ❁M ❁O Céline A A ❁ MaxMara www.berettagallery.com www.berettagallery.com MaxMara❁❁ ❁ MO ❁ Armani M M Céline C CO E E ❁ ❁ ❁ U U ❁ Prada ❁ NT ❁ Prada NT ❁Gucci OL www.janssensparis.com R Nina R Nina ❁ LI IS ROYA Bottega Veneta ❁ ABottega Veneta SÉ Ricci Ricci Dior❁ ❁❁LEAIG Chanel IG RUE ÉE E N Armani ❁ NE❁ ❁❁Armani ❁ RU E ❁Marina Rinaldi ❁ ❁ E TR ON CH ET Milliaud Louis Vuitton ❁ Louis Royal Vuitton ❁❁ Poiray ❁ Ralph ❁ Wempe Fendi Fendi Quartz ❁ Lauren ❁Versace ❁Versace Eres Dior ❁ Dior JB Guanti ❁ Lancaster ❁ Michael Kors ❁❁Salvatore ❁ ❁ Ferragamo Salvatore Ferragamo Bcbgmaxazria Caron❁ ❁❁❁ ❁ Escada CONCORDE Caron ❁ Swarovski ❁ ❁ Akris ❁ Akris Marella Dinh van Dinh ❁ Adidas ❁ Adidas Valentino ❁ Kenzo Chanel ❁ Givenchy ❁ Givenchy ❁van ❁Chanel ❁ ❁ Durance Fendi Republic ❁❁Fendi ❁Banana ❁ Chanel❁ RUEZadig ❁ ❁ Banana Republic Zadig SAINT❁FLOChanel RENTIN ❁Saint Laurent ❁Saint Laurent Chloé❁&❁Voltaire Chloé❁❁ Zwilling & Voltaire ❁ Loewe ❁ Loewe ❁ Césaire ❁ Longchamp ❁ ❁ Bui❁❁ Bui ❁❁ Hublot ❁Barbara T ❁❁ LT Bcbgmaxazria ❁❁ Barbara EL Weleda ❁Tara Jarmon ❁E❁Gucci Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren EV EV Weleda ❁Gucci S S Chronopassion ❁Dolce&Gabbana Dolce&Gabbana ❁Dodo OO OO Maje❁ Blumarine Blumarine .R .R D D S.T.Dupont S.T.Dupont Chanel IN Elie Saab❁ LIN Elie Saab❁ KL ❁ Audemars N NK RA RA F F ❁ Piguet Hedgren UE UE❁ FRANKLIN FRANKLIN ENRUE CA❁ ❁ EN Roberto ❁ V M D.ROOSEVELT D.ROOSEVELT A BON AV Cavalli ❁ Tom Ford ❁ Messika❁ This house of fine leather This goods house hand of finecrafts leather goods hand crafts ❁Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger Morabito❁ uxurious bags and leatherluxurious accessories bags inand its Parisian leather accessories in its Parisian ❁Hugo Boss Wolford ❁ workshop. 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RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONOR É

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Pierre Cardin

The world of the luxury shirt has found its home at 140 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. For Valentine’s days, 20% off ready-to-wear and tailor-made shirts for Where readers.

140 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré - Paris 8th Tel: + 33 (0) 1 53 75 48 01 www.emanuelberg.com

ÉLYSÉE

❁Lanvin ❁Bottega Veneta ❁Loro Piana ❁Prada Cerruti ❁Pinko 1881 ❁ ❁❁ ❁

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RUE DE RIVOLI

24  W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2014

❁ Longchamp ❁Tara Jarmon ❁Dodo

Chronopassion ❁ Maje❁

Marella

Kenzo❁

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Milliaud Royal Poiray Quartz Michael Kors ❁ Escada ❁ CONCORDE Valentino ❁

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❁Bally ❁Blumarine ❁Burberry ❁Ermenegildo Zegna ❁Leonard ❁Salvatore Ferragamo ❁

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3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg St Honoré) Tel: 01 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com

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Apostrophe❁

Sublime jewellery of precious gems and gold from this Italian brand. Each piece is unique, hand-made and influenced in its form by trends in modern and contemporary art.

❁ ❁ Caron

RUE DE SURÈNE

SHOP STOP

Frette❁

JANSSENS & JANSSENS

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RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE

In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.

❁Valentino

15/01/2014 11:42


RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ, PARIS

MEN / WOMEN

MADE TO MEASURE SHIRT AND READY-TO-WEAR

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WHERE LUXURY [SHOPPING] VENDÔME

SHOP STOP

GARE SAINT-LAZARE

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❁ L’Occitane ❁ Swarovski

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RUE DU HA VRE

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Printemps Homme

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Printemps Beauté-Maison

BUCHERER PARIS

In the heart of the Opera district, between Place Vendôme and Boulevard Haussmann, the House Bucherer unveils a sublime 2200m2 space showcasing the most beautiful Swiss names in watchmaking. The largest boutique in the world dedicated to timepieces, this is the Parisian shop stop.

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Baccarat Christofle IWC ❁ ❁ Diesel Cartier Repetto ❁ Mellerio ❁ Montblanc X❁Dinh van I ❁ Panerai ❁ PA❁Korloff Wine ❁ Van Cleef ❁ LA❁Folli Follie by One & Arpels ❁ ❁ E ❁Breitling ❁ De Fursac Louis Vuitton ❁ E D❁Jaquet Droz Hugo Boss Cartier U❁Tiffany & Co R❁ Dubail Daum ❁ ❁ ❁Vacheron Constantin ❁ Bvlgari ❁ Fréret Roy Loding ❁ ❁ ❁Charvet ❁Gas Bijoux ❁Boucheron E CIN

Jimmy Choo Hugo Boss Brooks Brothers Armani Dior Miki House Omega

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❁ ❁ ❁ Rolex ❁ ❁ ❁Van Cleef & Arpels ❁ ❁ DsQuared ❁ ❁Blancpain ❁❁ MisterChrono Jaeger❁ ❁ LeCoultre PLACE ❁Mauboussin Kusmi Tumi ❁ VENDÔME Kusmi ❁Chanel Chopard RU Tea Tea Michel ❁ ❁Chaumet E ❁ ❁ Perry ❁Buccellati ❁Hublot ❁Patek Philippe PLACE ❁Opera❁ ❁ Frey DU Wille

Honoré Paris PYRAMIDES ❁ Saint ❁ Jo Malone ES ID ❁ Bonpoint M Colette❁ RA Chantal Thomass❁ PY S Pataugas ❁ DE ❁ E U Mulberry

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26-28 rue Danielle Casanova - Paris 2nd Tel: 01 42 97 58 80 44 rue Etienne Marcel - Paris 2nd Tel: 01 45 08 49 46 8 avenue George V - Paris 8th Tel: 01 53 23 88 00 www.gasbijoux.com

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Diesel Etienne Marcel 21 rue Montmartre - Paris 1st Tel: 01 42 36 55 55

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Sephora❁

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Born in Saint-Tropez, Gas Bijoux has been creating jewellery for over 40 years, handmade and artisan, crafted in its Marseilles atelier, and it is now an internationally recognised fashion accessories house.

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Cult fashions for the hipster in the latest styles and fabrics with an accent on denim. Men’s, women’s, underwear, swimwear, shoes and bags, watches, sunglasses and all kinds of accessories.

SHOP STOP

Lafayette

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Golfino ❁

Diesel Opéra 38 av de l’Opéra - Paris 2nd Tel: 01 44 94 09 40 www.diesel.com

❁ Galeries

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12 boulevard des Capucines – Paris 9th Tel: 01 70 99 18 88 www.bucherer.com

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SHOP STOP

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30 rue Bonaparte - Paris 6th Tel: 01 44 07 04 28 www.francisklein.com

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59 rue de Rennes - Paris 6th Tel: 01 45 48 65 50 18 rue Tronchet - Paris 8th Tel: 01 47 42 61 44 www.jbguanti.fr

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JB GUANTI Indeed a fashion item, the glove gives a personal touch to every look and attitude. Gloves can accessorize a casual urban look, complete an evening dress or be worn for a hunting country look. It’s a must for elegance, comfort and protection.

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Georges ❁ ❁ Louis ❁ Rech Vuitton ❁ Etro ❁ ❁ Ralph ❁ Hobbs Lauren Tag Heuer ❁ Burberry SAINT-GERMAIN ❁ Paul Smith Rodika Armani ❁ Barbara DES-PRÉS Paul & Joe Zanian ❁ ❁Bui ❁ ❁ Stefanel❁ ❁ Sergio Rossi ❁ Cartier ❁ Ventilo L.K. ❁ Céline ❁ Swarovski Bennett ❁ Lancel Ferragamo ❁ Rolex❁ Carven ❁ ❁ Texier Crockett & Jones ❁ ❁ Montblanc Hackett ❁ Sonia Alexis Mabille ❁ Kenzo❁ ❁ J.M. Weston Rykiel ❁ L’Ibis Rouge ❁ Saint Laurent ❁ UR Tod’s Marina U FO Sportmax ❁ Eskandar ED ❁ U Maje R ❁ ❁ Dot-Drops ❁ Rinaldi Alain Mikli ❁ Prada Tru ❁ ❁ ❁ Trussardi Kipling M.A.C.❁ Durance ❁ ❁ Repetto ❁ ❁ Omega Pataugas ❁ Wolford ES American ÈVR Berluti ❁ S ❁ E D Vintage ❁ NE Longchamp ❁ JB Guanti ❁ E RUE DE BABYLO RU Hour ❁ ❁ ❁ Agnès b LPICE ❁Hermès Passion Robert ST-SU ❁ ❁ SÈVRES-BABYLONE Clergerie ❁ LeTéo&Blet Zadig ✴Le Lutetia Le Bon S Catherine E & Voltaire Marché R ❁ Memmi V Saint È S Laurent E

Louboutin

RASPA

8 rue des Canettes - Paris 6th Tel: 01 43 54 62 15 www.mydotdrops.com

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DOT-DROPS® DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!

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& Gallais ❁ BO ❁ John Lobb Bang UL Francis Klein ❁ ❁ & Olufsen Edward ❁ EV Green AR Zadig & Voltaire Armani❁ D ❁ Fabrice ❁ Karl Lagerfeld Casa SA ❁ Paule Ka INT Cinna ❁ -GE ❁ Mauboussin RM ❁ Welton A I N Façonnable ❁ ❁ Christian

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

DAZZLING I JEWELLERY

WATCHES A CUTTING EDGE

CHRONOGRAPH The handsome new Breitling for Bentley, the Bentley B06 chronograph, brings together superb aesthetics with the Manufacture Breitling Calibre B06. The watch harbours a 30-second chronograph system inspired by a Breitling patent dating back to 1926 and based on a central hand sweeping around the dial in half a minute ensuring extremely accurate 1/8th of a second time readings. Another of the watch’s exclusive features is the variable tachometer with a rotating bezel (the rim) that calculates the average speed no matter the time elapsed, the distance covered or the speed attained, compared with standard tachometers that measure only times of less than 60 seconds. The bezel has a knurled motif bringing to mind the famous Bentley radiator grilles. The watch is available in steel or red gold with a choice of a bracelet or a crocodile leather or rubber strap adorned with a central raised motif matching the one on the bezel. – P.V. 10 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01 42 61 18 84

CARTIER Famous for precious gems and tripleband gold rings. Collections include the romantically exquisite Love collection. 13 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.18.23.00. Mº Opéra CHAUMET Famous for fine jewellery since 1780, and once the favourite of Napoleon. 12 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.44.77.26.26. Mº Tuileries DE BEERS Diamonds have mesmerised famous figures in history since the dawn of time. No one knows diamonds like South African specialist De Beers. Cut for beauty and crafted by artisans, De Beers offers an incredible choice of first-rate diamonds coveted by the greatest jewellery connoisseurs. De Beers at Printemps, Printemps du Luxe, 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.49.43. Mº Havre Caumartin DIOR JOAILLERIE Dior’s haute joaillerie line is designed by Victoire de Castellane, who combines colourful stones and precious metals in surprising and playful ways. 8 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.30.84. Mº Madeleine FREYWILLE Fine enamel, gold and colourful, bold designs are the hallmarks of this Austrian house featuring fine jewellery, watches and writing instruments. The designs of the distinctive pieces are inspired by famous artists and historical art motifs. 9 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.12.34. Mº Tuileries; 167 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.47.47. Mº Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

MONTBLANC The timeless, elegant brand now has a superb flagship boutique in the heart of the luxury jewellery district. Unique pieces of prestige, limited editions, rare and precious jewellery and watches and the celebrated accessories can all be found here in this refined store that stretches out over two floors. 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.48.52. Mº Opéra PIAGET You find beautiful timepieces and superb jewellery here from the luxury Swiss brand that has been fashioning watches since 1874. The innovative jewellery collections include the colourful, beautifully sculpted cocktail-inspired rings featuring, for example, blue topaz or pink tourmaline. 16 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.58.18.14.15. Mº Tuileries TIFFANY & CO. The renowned jeweller has a three-story boutique with a tempting collection of classically simple jewellery and gift items. 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. Mº Madeleine VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Famous for elegant, unique jewellery. The Alhambra collection, celebrating the company’s centenary, combines the sparkle of gold beads with the rich lustre of white and grey mother-of-pearl and onyx. 22 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.64.47. Mº Opéra WEMPE A high-end German jeweller in business since 1878. The boutique, newly renovated and enlarged, is known for stylish watches and chronometers, but also carries a wide range of fine jewellery. 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. Mº Concorde CHOPARD Discover the Swiss house that specialises in beautiful timepieces and exquisite jewellery. In the boutique you will find classic solitaires alongside the incredible Haute Joaillerie collection of 150 unique animal-themed pieces. 1 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra

Tiffany & Co.

WATCH PHOTO © BREITLING

BOUCHERON The first of the great contemporary jewellers to open a boutique on the Place Vendôme, Boucheron has embodied excellence in jewellery, high jewellery and watch making for more than 150 years. Each collection draws from the history and the values of the Maison, celebrating a modern prowess that is constantly reinvented. Each watch and jewellery creation sublimates their exceptional stones with the precious material of which they are sculpted. Each creation captures light and crystallizes an emotion. 26 pl Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. Mº Opéra

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MORE I ACCESSORIES SWAROVSKI Enter into the magical world of the specialist in cut crystal in every hue crafted into dreamy, extravagant jewellery and evening bags. The house has historically collaborated with leading designers like Coco Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld and today works with both established and emerging artists. 146 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.13.80. M° George V TUMI Leading international brand of luxury travel, business and lifestyle accessories for men and women. The superior design and craftsmanship of their luggage, business cases and handbags guarantees quality. 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.45.79.70.30. M° Concorde GRANDOPTICAL France’s largest optical store offers a selection of 3000 spectacles. You will find glasses for men, women and children as well as a wide array of sunglasses, designer frames and contact lenses. 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. Mº George V BARBARA RIHL BOUTIQUE Fun, whimsical bags from this innovative designer who has worked with Karl Lagerfeld, Kenzo and Jill Sander. Influenced by travel, her bags are crafted in fine Italian leather and feature her very own drawings. 1 rue du 29 Juillet (1st), 01.40.15.02.07. M° Tuileries Barbara Rihl

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

PAMPERED BABIES

STORES I FOR KIDS BABY DIOR You’re never too young for high fashion. At Baby Dior you will find everything from booties for babies to activewear for boys and girls. 28 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.49.52.04.50. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt BONPOINT The French couture house for children, this establishment specialises in high quality traditional children’s fashion collections with a luxurious universe for tots to young teens. The boutique is ensconced in a 17th century mansion with a terrace café. 6 rue de Tournon (6th), 01.40.51.98.20. Mº Mabillon

For a perfect gift for a newborn you must visit Natalmarket, an upmarket boutique in the chic 16th arrondissement. Bibs in metallic gold and silver, snakeskin print bottles and leopard print pacifiers are some of the fashionable items found here for elite babies. The standout gift here would have to be the über-chic Silver and Golden Edition pacifiers by Elodie Details. 2bis rue Scheffer (16th), 01 84 17 77 10

FUN ACTIVITY Tiny Tartine Popular children’s wear brand Tartine et Chocolat’s latest collection for girls and boys is both chic and on-trend. For the young ladies you will find sweet A-line dresses and easy to wear pieces including skirts and t-shirts that can be easily mixed and matched. For the young gentlemen you will find mini trench coats, shorts and smart slacks. Tartine et Chocolat also offers an adorable newborn collection with onesies and booties for already fashionable babies. 266 blvd Saint Germain (7th), 01 45 56 10 45

WHSmith organises the Kids’ Club every second Wednesday of every month (except July and August) where children aged between 4 and 9 are invited to free readings in English. This is a great rendezvous for kids and adults, who can peacefully browse the great books found here while their children are being entertained and educated. Reservations are required. You can reserve by simply sending an email to books@whsmith.fr, indicating your child’s full name, age and English level. 248 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 77 88 99

Baby bottle by Dior

TIKIBOU The oldest toy store in Paris where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites including Tintin, model cars, music boxes and more. 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. Mº Edgar Quinet JACADI Adorable French clothing and shoes for children from three months old to age 12. 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. Mº Madeleine MIKI HOUSE Superb quality and unique style are the hallmarks of this Japanese house of children’s fashion and style. Every collection is conceived with the child in mind. 366 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. Mº Tuileries

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shOpping time advertorial

traditional old-fashioned toys

clothing store for children

tikiBou toy stores

renaissance

◗ 2 rue du Sabot, Paris 6th ◗ M° St Germain des Prés ◗ Tel: 01.42.22.16.60 ◗ www.tenclothes.com

◗ 14 rue de Beaune, Paris 7th ◗ M° Rue du Bac ◗ Tel. 06.85.43.03.52 ◗ www.renaissancevintageparis.com

On a typical street in the Saint-Germain-desPrés neighbourhood is found this exclusive boutique for babies and children. Joyful and colourful fashion, featuring fabrics of fine quality, contemporary clothing, thought out and elaborated for the wellbeing of your young ones.

This boutique carries vintage couture clothing, accessories and jewellery, specialising in clothing from the 1930’s onwards. Designer labels carried by the store include vintage Chanel, Dior, Hermès, Balenciaga and Pucci.

©la nina

◗ 20 ave de Trudaine, Paris 9th ◗ 33 blvd Edgar Quinet, Paris 14th ◗ 20 ave Félix Faure, Paris 15th ◗ www.tikibou.fr

ten clothes

Vintage Boutique

The oldest toy store in Paris where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites including Tintin, model cars, music boxes and more.There is a wonderful and fun selection for young and old alike. Tuesday-Saturday 10am-7:30pm

Vintage & Design

trousers for women

l’iBis rouge ◗ 35 blvd Raspail, Paris 7 ◗ M° Sevres Babylone ◗ Tel: 01.45.48.98.21 ◗ ibis-rouge@wanadoo.fr

th

This beautiful and original boutique in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés offers a unique array of vintage couture fashion and jewellery including pieces by Chanel, Lanvin,YSL and Dior. Also a fine selection of vintage alligator bags. Tuesday to Saturday 12-7pm

philippine janssens ◗ 3-5 rue d’Anjou, Paris 8 ◗ M° Concorde (by appointment only) ◗ Tel: 01.42.65.43.90 ◗ www.philippinejanssens.com th

In the shopping district of Faubourg Saint-Honoré enter into an exceptional world of bespoke trousers for women fashioned in the finest of fabrics. This young and gifted creator proposes both classic and couture lines showcasing the excellence of Made in France craftsmanship.

100% gluten-free products

papyBio ◗ 51 rue de Richelieu, M° Pyramides ◗ Tel: 01.43.66.31.77 ◗ Shop hours: Mon-Sat 11am-8pm ◗ www.papybio.com

The oldest bakery shop in Paris dating back to 1810 has been completely renovated. A wide selection of breads, savoury tarts, pastries and macaroons, all gluten-free, are among the offerings. Baking and pastry-making classes are available, too. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. c o m   31

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

BEAUTY BUZZ

British Scents British perfume house Penhaligon’s has recently opened its second Parisian boutique in the heart of the French capital in the Marais neighbourhood. The boutique, designed by London designer Christopher Jenner, features a modern décor with subtle old British touches throughout, including the deep purple cushioned walls that borrow from the iconic Chesterfield chair detailing, while the ceiling is inspired by that of Westminster Abbey. The boutique, which is opened daily from 10.30am to 7.30pm, offers the house’s collection of perfumes for both him and her, including Blenheim Bouquet, with notes of citrus oils and spices for her, while gentlemen can cast a spell with LP No. 9 For Men with its complex heart of ylang-ylang. 34 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 42 77 80 28

SAY YES!

A CATWALK LOOK Oscar de la Renta’s Spring/ Summer 2014 show had models sporting a dewy and natural look created by Gucci Westman, Revlon’s Artistic Director. Recreate the romantic look with Revlon’s Lip Butter in Juicy Papaya and Super Lustrous Lip Gloss in Snow Pink and for dreamy eyes use lashings of the brand’s Lash Potion Mascara in Blackest Black. Available at Marionnaud boutiques including 33 rue Tronchet (8th), 01 42 65 03 59

The fashion capital’s hairdresser du jour is Andrea Soldano, the Italian born hairdresser who believes you should wear the cut and not the other way around. In his salon, Yes by Andrea Soldano, he and his team have created an easygoing ambiance that is rarely found in upscale hair salons, and a fun attitude that will have you feeling relaxed from the moment you enter. Located in the hipster district, the 11th arrondissement of the city, the salon is an inviting space where the sought-after Andrea listens to what his clients want rather than dictating what look they should go for. He understands each of his client’s needs and cuts, colours and treats accordingly. This is a great address whether you want to go for a simple trim, a colour touch-up or even if you are looking to change your hair completely and need someone to treat your hair with care and give you valuable advice and make sure you walk away happy with your new hairstyle. With up to a five-week waiting list for Andrea to tend to your tresses, reservations are highly recommended. 44 rue Saint Sabin (11th), 01 43 44 13 30

ONE-STOP SHOP BEAUTY HAVENS SEPHORA Perfumes, cosmetics, beauty products, you might wind up spending the day here in this fabulous store filled not only with goods but plenty of services, too. You can have your nails, eyebrows and hair done, and then try out samples galore. 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

MARIONNAUD PARIS Personal service, tips and advice and a fine selection of perfumes and cosmetics for men, women and children are the hallmarks of this boutique devoted to beauty. Gift sets, travel articles, make-up and a fine assortment of accessories are also among the offerings. 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V

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W h e r e pa r i s [ S H O P P I N G ]

La Scent Room, Printemps Haussmann

Department Stores & Shopping Centres

and accessories.

80 labels – several exclusive to

Lafayette Maison-(Across the

Printemps, including the cult

street) a home décor shop with

London line Agent Provocateur.

sophisticated furnishings.

On the 6th and 7th floors of the

Mon – Sat 9:30am – 8:00pm,

Printemps Beauty/Home store are

BHV/MARAIS

Louvre. A unique shopping venue,

Thurs until 9 pm.

fashions for children.

A department store known for

it brings together a collection of

40 blvd Haussmann (9th),

Mon – Sat 9:35am – 8pm,

its great homeware selection

boutiques that are opened every

01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée

Thurs until 10pm.

and appliances as well as a good

day of the year.

d’Antin-La Fayette

64 blvd Haussmann (9th)

selection of top brand names for

10am – 8pm, even on Sundays.

women and children. Mon, Tues,

99 rue de Rivoli (1st),

PRINTEMPS haussmann

Thurs, Fri 9:30am – 7:30pm, Wed

01.43.16.47.10. M° Palais Royal – 

A department store housed in three

9:30am – 9pm, Sat 9:30am – 8pm.

Musée du Louvre

buildings, with an 1865 facade

PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE

and 1923 cupola that are listed as

Discover the new Printemps

BHV Homme – a shop exclusively

01.42.82.50.00 M° Havre-Caumartin

dedicated to men (36 rue de

LE FORUM DES HALLES

historic monuments. Printemps’

celebrating luxury and French

la Verrerie).

This shopping centre in the

exquisite world of Luxury and

know-how in the heart of the

14 rue du Temple (4th),

heart of Paris has a full range of

Accessories, spread out over 3

Louvre Museum, showcasing the

01.42.74.90.00. M° Hôtel de Ville

shopping spots for just about

floors, plays host to a splendid

most prestigious accessories,

anything, clothing, books, gifts,

collection of luxury houses and

beauty products, watches and

LE BON MARCHE

home décor and beauty products.

the most sought-after labels.

jewellery brands.

The oldest department store in

There are places to stop for a coffee

Printemps de l’Homme, the very

Open 7 days a week, 10am-8pm.

Paris and the only one on the Rive

or a snack, two restaurants and two

first to dedicate an entire shop to

Carrousel du Louvre

Gauche. Extremely chic, with a

movie theatres.

men, houses six floors of menswear

99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st

great selection of ready-to-wear,

Mon – Sat 10am – 8pm.

and a men’s salon. International

01.76.77.41.00 M° Palais-Royal –

household goods, cosmetics and

101 rue Berger (1st),

Designers, an entire floor dedicated

Musée du Louvre

lingerie, all under a lovely glass roof.

01.44.76.96.56. M° Les Halles

to trendy new designers, is home to prestigious fashion designers

LA VALLEE VILLAGE

dedicated to men.

GALERIES LAFAYETTE

with the space created by fashion

A village-like shopping outlet on

Mon-Sat 10am – 8pm,

This elegant department store

visionary Maria Luisa Poumaillou.

the city outskirts offering discounts

Thurs & Fri until 9pm.

carries top brands including

Printemps de la Beauté features

of up to 60% on a hundred luxury

24 rue de Sèvres (7th),

Chanel, Chloé and Gaultier. There’s

two floors of products and

labels including Armani, Burberry,

01.44.39.80.00.

a wonderful lingerie department,

beauty supplies as well as a spa

Tumi and Ralph Lauren.

M° Sèvres-Babylone

a new children’s concept store that

and beauty salon. La Scent Room

Mon – Sun 10am – 7pm.

takes up an entire floor, restaurants,

is a unique concept that offers

Shopping Express Shuttle bus

LE CARROUSEL DU LOUVRE

wine bars and a tea room and the

only exclusive luxury brands that

departs from the centre of

Art, beauty, technology, leather

cosmetics and perfume section

you won’t find anywhere else.

Paris twice a day at 9:30am and

goods and more are found under

offers 260 different brands.

Printemps de la Mode is one floor

12:30pm. 3 cours de la Garonne,

the famous inverted pyramid at

Lafayette Homme – A separate

entirely dedicated to shoes while

01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val

the Louvre in the Carrousel du

building housing men’s fashion

Printemps de la Lingerie carries

d’Europe (about 35min).

And the entire basement floor is

34  W H E R E Pa r i s I JFAE N B RUAR UARYY2014 2014

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[ s h opping ]

A SPA moment

Six Senses

BY SA N D R A ISK A N D ER

LOOKING FOR A MOMENT OF PURE RELAXATION? W E B R I N G Y O U O U R 3 F A V O U R I T E S P A T R E AT M E N T S SPA VALMONT Add a twinkle to your eyes with the Bulle Emotionnelle treatment. Gently releasing any tension with a facial drainage technique, your eyes are restored to their youthful look with an eye-regenerating mask applied after a circular treatment using ice is administered, leaving your eyes brighter and with a twinkle.

OH MY CREAM! Make your skin glow with a bespoke Esthederm treatment at this quaint little beauty spa found in the very Parisian neighbourhood of Saint-Germain. The carefully trained beauticians will professionally evaluate your skin’s needs before choosing the suitable products from the brand’s line of skincare collection to nourish your skin.

SIX SENSES Distress and try the new Hanakasumi treatment that starts with a body mask using warm rice powder. While the mask is taking effect you are treated to a foot massage before your feet are delicately wrapped in hot towels and to complete the treatment, after the mask is scrubbed away, your body is massaged with shea butter leaving it relaxed and supple.

Hotel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 44 58 10 77

3 rue de Tournon (6th), 01 43 54 80 83

3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01 43 16 10 10

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W H E R E PA R I S [ S H O P P I N G ]

ICY MACARONS Amorino has combined two of our favourite things, French macarons and Italian gelato and has created the Macarons Glacés, ice-cream filled macarons! The Macarons Glacés come in 8 flavours including mango, vanilla, raspberry, coffee, pistachio, chocolate hazelnut, chocolate and salted caramel. Available at all Amorino stores including 47 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01 44 07 48 08

FOOD I STOP For a gourmet experience, here are some of our favourite stops where connoisseurs can both indulge while on holiday and purchase sophisticated treats to take home FAUCHON A celebrated food emporium with an excellent selection of wines, along with foie gras, caviar, exotic fruit, chocolates, teas and spices. Also offers top-notch take-out meals. 26 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01 70 39 38 00. Two doors down at Number 30 find Le Café and Le Comptoir with a fabulous wine cellar, a great cheese plate, and the most delicious caramel éclairs. Amazing gift baskets make for a perfect offering for all foodies. M° Madeleine LADUREE A wonderfully old-fashioned pastry shop and tearoom famous for its macarons, crispy confections with soft centres that come in classic flavours as well as seasonal specialties.

ANN’S HOMEMADE

COOKIES

Also on the Ile Saint-Louis is Ann’s Cookies. What started off as a hobby and a side business is now Ann’s fulltime passion. The talented baker, who was inspired by Woody Allen’s movie Small Time Crooks, where the characters open up a cookie store, bakes the cookies fresh every day and has people lining up to taste her delicious treats. Her homemade cookies come in different flavours including the classic choc chip with either dark or milk chocolate pieces, praline and speculoos. The one-woman run store is open from Wednesday to Sunday, from 12 to 2pm and from 2.30 to 7pm, but always check Ann’s website (www.anns-cookies.com) for exceptional closing days to avoid disappointment of heading to the store and finding it closed.

75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 75 08 75. M° George V LAFAYETTE GOURMET A high end supermarket and wine sshop in the department store. Great for gifts and a perfect place for a quick lunch, with the Bordeauxthèque completely devoted to Bordeaux wines. 40 boulevard Haussmann (9th), 01 40 23 52 67. M° Chaussée d’Antin – La Fayette MARIAGE FRERES A colonial-style tea room and one of the most exclusive collections of teas, teapots and other tea paraphernalia in town. There’s a lunch restaurant and tea salon on the main floor, and a small but interesting tea museum on the upper level. 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (4th), 01 42 72 28 11. M° Hôtel de Ville PETROSSIAN The Petrossian brothers were the first to import caviar into France over 70 years ago. The shop features Beluga and other caviars, as well as foie gras, smoked salmon and an assortment of vodkas. Upstairs is a luxury restaurant. 18 blvd de La Tour-Maubourg (7th), 01 44 11 32 22. M° La Tour-Maubourg

60 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01 55 42 14 88/06 40 25 19 26

PIERRE HERME Fourth-generation pâtissier Pierre Hermé delivers delicious pastries and chocolates, and his very famous macarons, with flavours such as chocolate caramel. 72 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01 43 54 47 77. M° St-Sulpice

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[address book]

shopping

Jean paul Gaultier - 44 ave George V (8th), 01.44.43.00.44. Mº George V karl laGerFeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. Mº Rue du Bac kapra hiska - 43 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01.42.76.06.47. Mº Chemin Vert

l u x u r y s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

lady r Forrest - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.65.25.46. Mº Concorde lanvin- 22 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. Mº Concorde

Accessories Couleurs & CaChemire - 11 rue de Béarn (3rd), 09.51.59.43.21. Mº Chemin Vert/St-Paul duret paris - 14 ave George V (8th), 01.47.20.53.56. Mº George V

les dandys - 23 rue Pasquier (8th), 01.40.07.05.52. Mº Saint-Augustin

children’s clothing & toys Boites a musiQue anna Joliet - 9 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.55.13. Mº Pyramides Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6 ), 01.40.51.98.20. Mº Mabillon th

JB Guanti - 59 rue de Rennes (6 ), 01.45.48.65.50. Mº Saint Sulpice/Mabillon th

JaCadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. Mº Madeleine Joué CluB - 3-5 boulevard des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. Mº Tuileries

montBlanC - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. Mº George V

miki house - 366 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. Mº Tuileries

swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. Mº Madeleine

tikiBou toy store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. Mº Edgar Quinet

s.t. dupont - 58 ave Montaigne (8 ), 01.45.61.08.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

ten Clothes - 2-4 rue du Sabot (6 ), 01.42.22.16.60. M° St Sulpice

BeAuty spA & products l’artisan parFumeur - 2 rue de l’AmiralColigny (1st), 01.44.88.27.50. Mº Pont Neuf Ban thai spa - 20 rue Dauphine (6th), 01.43.54.01.01. Mº Odéon espaCe weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. Mº George V lanCÔme - 29 rue du Fbg-St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. Mº Madeleine les Comptoirs de duranCe - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. Mº Madeleine l’oCCitane - 55 rue St-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. Mº Pont Marie m.a.C. - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.76.05.99. M° George V

marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. Mº Madeleine marina rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. Mº Madeleine

misterChrono - 23 rue Danielle Casanova (1st), 09.53.42.04.64. Mº Opéra

th

levi’s store - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.53.53.05.70. Mº Georges V

th

clothing: Men & WoMen anne Fontaine - 17 rue François 1er (8th), 01.40.73.78.01. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Banana repuBliC - 22 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.53.89.03.92. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGmaXaZria -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. Mº Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. Mº George V Capelstore - 26 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.66.34.21. Mº Madeleine Cerruti 1881 - 27 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.30.18.72. Mº Madeleine Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. Mº Concorde Corneliani - 23 rue du Fbg St.Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.69.30. Mº Concorde de FursaC - 146 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.43.25.40.66. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés

talBot runhoF - 14 rue d’Alger (1st), 01.55.04.85.50. Mº Tuileries Zilli - 48 rue François 1er (8th), 01.53.23.90.96. Mº George V

eye WeAr alain mikli - 28 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.42.65.22.07. Mº Madeleine FranCis klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.44.07.04.28. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés GrandoptiCal - 138 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. Mº George V

FABrics: couture Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. Mº Concorde

Food & Wine deBauve & Gallais - 30 rue des SaintsPères (7th), 01.45.48.54.67. Mº St-Germaindes-Prés FauChon - 26 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.00. Mº Madeleine hediard - 21 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.88.88. Mº Madeleine kusmi tea - 71 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.63.08.08. Mº George V ladurée - 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.75.08.75. Mº George V mariaGe FrÈres - 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (4th), 01.42.72.28.11. Mº Hôtel de Ville

make up For ever - 5 rue des FrancsBourgeois (4th), 01.42.71.23.19. M° St-Paul

dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

Caviar petrossian - 8 blvd de la TourMaubourg (7th), 01.44.11.32.32. Mº La TourMaubourg

marionnaud paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V

dsQuared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. Mº Concorde

pierre hermé - 72 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.43.54.47.77. Mº St-Sulpice

edGard vermont - 120 rue Fbg SaintHonoré (8th), 01.42.25.34.35. Mº Miromenil

wine By one - 9 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.42.60.85.76. Mº Opéra

emanuel BerG - 140 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.75.48.01. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule

hoMe decor

salon Chistophe roBin - Hotel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.02.83. M° Tuileries salon John nollet - Hotel Park Hyatt, 5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.55.80.71.50. M° Opéra

hervé leGer - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. Mº Madeleine

ateliers d’art de FranCe BoutiQue (talents) - 26 ave Niel (17th), 01.44.40.22.80. Mº Pereire/Ternes

sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

iBlues - 16 rue de Passy (16th), 01.42.88.68.67. Mº Passy

BaCCarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. Mº Boissière

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For more shopping destinations , go to wheretraveler.com/paris

Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. Mº Madeleine

lanCel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. Mº George V

ChristoFle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. Mº Concorde

lonGChamp - 404 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. Mº Concorde

laliQue - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.53.05.12.12. Mº Madeleine

louis vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. Mº George V

la tuile à loup - 35 rue Daubenton (5th), 01.47.07.28.90. Mº Censier-Daubenton

pinel & pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. Mº Madeleine

silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. Mº Kléber

JeWellery & WAtches anGela Caputi GiuGGiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. Mº Louvre-Rivoli BouCheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. Mº Opéra BuCherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. Mº Opéra BvlGari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. Mº Pyramides Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. Mº Opéra Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. Mº Opéra F.p. Journe - 63 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.08.00. Mº Champs-Elysées Clemenceau GuCCi watChes - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74, Mº Havre-Caumartin letéo&Blet - 23 rue St-Sulpice (6th), 01.43.37.86.84. Mº Odéon/St-Sulpice omeGa - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. Mº Concorde patek philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. Mº Tuileries piaGet - 16 place Vendôme (1st), 01.58.18.14.15. Mº Tuileries tissot BoutiQue - 76 ave des ChampsElysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. Mº George V van CleeF & arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.64.47. Mº Opéra vhernier - 63 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. Mº Miromesnil wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. Mº Concorde

prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

GuCCi watChes Printemps Haussmann (1st floor) 64 blvd Haussmann (9th) ❘ www.gucciwatches.com

teXier- 127 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.42.97.59.34. Mº Mabillon/ St-Germain-des-Prés tumi - 245 rue St Honoré (1st), 01.45.79.70.30. Mº Concorde

Multi-BrAnd Boutiques By marie - 8 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.88.00. Mº George V Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. Mº Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. Mº Tuileries l’eClaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. Mº George V merCi - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3th), 01.42.77.00.33. Mº Saint Sébastien-Froissard

CroCkett & Jones 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th) Mº Madeleine ❘ www.crockettandjones.com

montaiGne market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

shoes a.testoni - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.44.60.09.90. Mº Concorde Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97.Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt Christian louBoutin - 68 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. Mº Madeleine CroCkett & Jones – 14 rue ChauveauLagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. Mº Madeleine derville – Passage des 2 Pavillons (1st), 01.42.96.82.27. Mº Pyramides Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt J.m. weston – 114 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.26.47. Mº George V

wempe 16 rue Royale (8th) Mº Concorde ❘ www.wempe.com

mephisto shop - 12 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.40.15.00.50. Mº Pyramides repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. Mº Opéra

luggage and bags

tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. Mº Concorde

Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. Mº Concorde/Madeleine

VintAge

CoaCh - available at Printemps: 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), Mº Havre-Caumartin

didier ludot - 20 & 24 Galerie de Montpensier (1st), 01.42.96.06.56. Mº Pyramides

dot-drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. Mº Mabillon

dress-Code - 62 ave Théophile Gautier (16th), 01.45.25.00.00. Mº Eglise d’Auteuil

hedGren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. Mº Madeleine

eCrin de mode - 6 rue de Jarente (4th), 09.81.82.00.66. Mº Saint-Paul

hermÈs - 24 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. Mº Concorde

l’iBis rouGe - 35 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.98.21. Mº Sèvres-Babylone

kiplinG – 4 rue de Sèvres (6th), 01.45.44.77.67. Mº Sèvres-Babylone

renaissanCe - 14 rue de Beaune (7th), 06.85.43.03.52. Mº rue du Bac

dot-drops 8 rue des Canettes (6th) Mº Mabillon ❘ www.mydotdrops.com

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W H E R E PA R I S

ARTS & ATTRACTIONS

A sparkling show devoted to the house of Cartier is being played out in the Grand Palais tracing the establishment’s many-faceted history, from it being founded in 1847 and the prominent role it has played in the history of decorative arts. The show, entitled Cartier, Style and History, has been designed as an art history exhibition presenting the jeweller’s creations as works of art in their own right. The exhibition brings together some 600 pieces of jewellery, objects, watches and clocks teamed up with dresses, coats and accessories, furniture, paintings, advertising photographs and fashion magazine spreads, giving visitors an idea of the art and taste of the time. The visitor can look onto an array of objects from ceremonial jewellery to the most personal of items: vanity cases, cigarette cases and wristwatches, with the stars of the show being, among others, the superb diadems and an unprecedented number (18) of the house’s mysterious clocks, each one a masterpiece. – Patricia Valicenti Through Feb 16 Grand Palais, Salon d’Honneur, Square Jean Perrin entrance, 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17

DIADÈME CARTIER PARIS, 1914 AND BROCHE CARTIER NEW YORK, COMMANDE DE 1925 PHOTOS: N.WELSH, COLLECTION CARTIER © CARTIER

CARTIER IN CONTEX T

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[ A R T S & AT T R A C T I O N S ]

CL ARIT Y

AND CRYSTAL

They are sacred and profane works, fantastical, poetic and symbolical, evoking the liturgy and objects of virtue. Ira de Fürstenberg has created a magical world in this show fittingly entitled Unique Objects. She draws inspiration and ideas from ancient objects that she brings back from her far-flung voyages or finds in antique shops. Crucifixes, chalices, bowls and ciboria blending rock crystal, rare marbles encrusted with fine and precious gemstone and decorated with inflorescences taking the shape of tutelary angels, crowns of thorns and interlacing of barbed wire in gold and silver plate are on display. There are also works that represent an exotic bestiary inspired from the nourishing banks of the Nile of Ancient Egypt, the Saharan lands of northwest Africa and also Venetian bas-reliefs influenced by Byzantium. The Musée opened up its private Jacquemart-André has salons to welcome the show, which was first presented by the Bagatti Valsecchi museum in Milan. – P.V. From Feb 12 through to Mar 2 158 blvd Haussmann (8th), 01 45 62 11 59

SLICES OF

LIFE

Bold and bursting with irony are the photographs by

HUIS-CLOS, LA TABLE PHOTO © AMÉLIE CHASSARY & LUCIE BELARBI

the talented young contemporary photographers Amélie Chassary and Lucie Belarbi. There are the elegant hounds on coverlets in the woods, a bouquet that beckons and recoils at the same time and the audacity of an uncooked roast chicken. They are all part of the duo’s Résonance series, a perception of the world juxtaposing the relationship between individuals and nature. The volumes, nature, settings and bodies in the works are partially or totally covered in materials evoking scenes that are both troubling and magical with every photograph having been carefully scripted. The Galerie Rauchfeld is also exhibiting works from their Huis-Clos series on the theme of the family, which takes an ironic view of our contemporary society. – P.V.

From Feb 6-23 22 rue de Seine (6th), 01 43 54 66 75 w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m 41

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Olwen Forest

W h e r e pa r i s [ A r t s & at t r a c t i o n s ]

JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS

GALLERIES GALERIE BERNHEIM-JEUNE The Bernheims organised Van Gogh’s first Paris exhibit and also presented Cézanne, Matisse and others. Now run by descendants of the founder, the gallery exhibits contemporary artists and publishes art books. Tue-Sat 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm. www.bernheim-jeune.com 83 rue du Faubourg St Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.60.31. M° Miromesnil

GALERIE DANIEL TEMPLON

Olwen Forest invites you to see her collection of vintage costume jewelry worn by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel , Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Miriam, Haskell… A display of original Art Deco cocktail accessories complete the show. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday Tel: 01 40 11 96 38

www.olwenforest.com

A contemporary gallery featuring established and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.danieltemplon.com. 30 rue Beaubourg (3rd), 01.42.72.14.10. M° Rambuteau

GALERIE JEROME DE NOIRMONT Specialising in contemporary artists with international acclaim. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm. www.denoirmont.com. 36-38 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.89.89.00. M° Miromesnil

The Galerie Polad-Hardouin

exhibition rooms, it proffers a journey into the Modern Art adventure. Renoir, Cézanne, Picasso, Dali, Miro are all found in this fine and sublime house of art. Tues-Fri 10:30am-12:30pm & 2:30pm-6:30pm, Mon (and Sat only during exhibitions) 2:30pm-6:30pm. www.malingue.net 26 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.60.33. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt

GALERIE NATHALIE OBADIA Museum-quality 16th- and 17th-century Flemish paintings, including works by the Breughels and Cranach the Elder. Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm. www.dejonckheere.fr 100 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.66.69.49. M° Miromesnil

This contemporary gallery features fine, collectable works by both established and up-and-coming artists. Mon-Sat 11am-7pm www.galerie-obadia.com 3 rue du Cloître Saint-Merri (4th), 01.42.74.67.68. M° Hôtel de VIlle

GALERIE LELONG

GALERIE POLAD-HARDOUIN

This quintessential Parisian gallery features the works of leading contemporary artists. Tues-Fri 10:30am6pm. Sat 2pm-6:30pm www.galerie-lelong.com 13 rue de Téhéran (8th), 01.45.63.13.19. M° Miromesnil

This contemporary art gallery nestled in the heart of the Marais offers a spacious setting for over 30 artists, both established and emerging. Works with strong pictorial choices are featured here. The gallery remains faithful to the New Figuration movement. Conferences animated by specialists are organised throughout the year. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. www.polad-hardouin.com 86 rue Quincampoix (3rd), 01.42.71.05.29. M° Rambuteau

GALERIE MAEGHT This landmark Parisian gallery opened in 1946 and presents exhibitions of leading modern and contemporary artists. There is also a superb bookstore carrying art books, fine art posters and lithographs. Mon 10am-6pm. Tues-Sat 9:30am-7pm. www.maeght.com 42 rue du Bac (7th), 01.45.48.45.15. M° Rue du Bac

GALERIE MALINGUE This prestigious gallery has been welcoming discerning art collectors for over three decades. With three lofty

GALERIE SCHMIT Three generations of art experts present museum quality paintings by 19th and 20th century French masters. Covering periods from the impressionists, the fauves, the Cubists and others. Mon-Fri, 10am-12:30pm/2pm-6pm. 396 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.36.36. M° Concorde

Photo © Patrice Bouvier courtesy Galerie Polad-Hardouin

GALERIE DE JONCKHEERE

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MAURO CORDA Unconventional

Contorsionniste XXVI, bronze and stainless steel, 192 x 65 x 40 cm

12th February - March 5th, 2014

www.operagaller y.com

356, r ue Saint-HonorĂŠ 75001 Par is. T +33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 par is@oper agaller y.com Mon. - Sat. 10 am - 7 pm

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W H E R E PA R I S

A community of curious creatures has settled into the Palais de la Découverte as thousands of ants perform various antics for the visitor to behold. Ants appeared on the face of the earth 120 million years ago and now there are billions of them. The exhibition, entitled A Thousand Billion Ants, complete with ant farms, takes a look at the global success of these fascinating insects through their social system and collective behaviour. You can watch them carry leaves and twigs to their nests and as they head down the transparent tubes, the visitor learns that ants carrying something are given right of way over those who are not. There are 12,000 known species on the face of the planet, and the show provides a journey into their world through films, interactive exhibits, scale models, objects and of course the ants themselves, the undisputed stars of the show. – P.V. Through Aug 24 Ave Franklin Roosevelt (8th), 01 56 43 20 21

The Return of the Lady The enigmatic Lady and the Unicorn, restored, returned home to the Musée du Cluny last December to an entirely revamped exhibition room, which was designed to improve conservation conditions and to enhance appreciation of this outstanding ensemble. The six tapestries of the great masterpiece are regarded as being among the most exceptional artistic achievements of the Medieval era, dating from about 1500. Captivating and shrouded in mystery, they were discovered in 1841 by Prosper Mérimée in the Boussac castle in the French department of the Creuse and acquired by the first director and curator of the Cluny, Edmond Du Sommerard in 1882. The Lady and the Unicorn is a complex and intriguing work not least of all because of the long lasting belief that unicorns possess mystical powers. It is generally agreed upon that the tapestries depict the five senses but debate hovers around the sixth tapestry, Mon seul désir (My Sole Desire). Could it be perhaps the inner sense, the heart? – P.V. 6 place Paul Painlevé (5th), 01 53 73 78 16

EVOKING THE EQUINE The lore and history of the horse are on the agenda in Chantilly in the domain’s recently renovated Musée du Cheval (Horse Museum), one of the few museums in the world devoted to the horse. The museum traces the history of the horse since the dawn of time showcasing some 200 objects including paintings, engravings, fabrics, sculptures, audio-visual documents and equestrian equipment. The exhibition, running through the 15 adjoining rooms of an edifice largely built in the middle of the 18th century, covers the evolution of the horse and horse breeds throughout the world, the technical progress in horse equipment and the relationship between the horse and power, war and hunting. A large room is devoted to the horse in art with works by, among others, Dürer, Mantegna, Rubens and Dufy – P.V. Domaine de Chantilly, 03 44 27 31 80 Twenty-five minutes from Paris by train (SNCF) from the Gare du Nord.

ANT PHOTO © PALAIS DE LA DÉCOUVERTE – CÉSAR ROBINEAU; TENTURE DE LA DAME À LA LICORNE: « MON SEUL DÉSIR » CIRCA 1500 PARIS, MUSÉE DE CLUNY - MUSÉE NATIONAL DU MOYEN ÂGE © RMN-GRAND PALAIS / MICHEL URTADO; CARROUSEL HORSES PHOTO © AKTC-FRIEDLI

ANT ATTITUDE

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BOAT CRUISES

BATOBUS

cruise on board your own private

A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8

boat. Ensconced in a mahogany

stops including the Eiffel Tower, the

Riva runabout of the 1960s, enjoy

Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and

the Seine and the heart of Paris.

the Town Hall. 10:30 am-7pm, boats

The captain and bilingual hostess

17 to 30 minutes apart, depending

welcome you on board with

upon the season.

beverages and canapés.

One-day pass 15€, 2-day

Reservations required,

pass 18€. www.batobus.com.

5 persons maximum.

08.25.05.01.01.

www.parisluxuryboat.com. 06 60 16 00 79/01 46 05 59 14

LE CAPITAINE FRACASSE Enjoy a 2-hour cruise on the Seine

VEDETTES DE PARIS

while enjoying a delightful dinner

Offering one-hour cruises

conceived by Martial Enguehard,

departing from the Eiffel Tower.

who was awarded the prestigious

11am-11:30am & 1:30pm-6pm,

finest craftsman of France honour.

boats 30 min apart. 13€ adults, 5€

Menus start at 55€. Mon-Thurs at

children. Special theme cruises also

7pm & 9:30pm, Fri & Sat at 7pm &

available including a champagne

9:45pm, Sun at 8pm, boarding 15

tasting cruise.

to 30 minutes before departure.

www.vedettesdeparis.com. Port

www.lecapitainefracasse.com.

de Suffren (16th), 01 44 18 19

L’Ile aux Cygnes (15th),

50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champ

08 26 10 48 15. M° Bir-Hakeim

de Mars

MARINA DE PARIS

YACHTS DE PARIS

Enjoy a savoury meal while cruising on the Seine. Lunch Batobus

BATOBUS PHOTO © DOMINIQUE MILHEROU & LUC PÂRIS; PALAIS ROYAL PHOTO © 2013 THINKSTOCK - ISAXAR – ISTOCK

CARROUSEL HORSES PHOTO © AKTC-FRIEDLI

[ A R T S & AT T R A C T I O N S ]

cruises at 12:15 pm, Dinner cruises at 6:30pm & 9:00pm. Menus start at 39€ for lunch,

The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions. Gourmet dinner cruises nightly boarding at 7:45pm featuring the gastronomic cuisine

BATEAUX-MOUCHES

also be booked.

The legendary cruise company has

Cruise only: 12.50€ adults, 5.50€

been navigating the Seine for over

children under 12. Departures

60 years. Double-decker tour boats

every 45 min, 11 am-9 pm.

proffer fine vistas of the capital.

www.bateaux-mouches.fr.

Savoury lunch and dinner cruises

Pont de l’Alma, 01.42.25.96.10.

PARIS LUXURY BOAT

Port Henri IV (4th),

offering classic French cuisine may

M° Alma-Marceau

Enjoy an original and romantic

01 44 54 14 70. M° Pont de Sully

55€ for dinner, children’s menus available. www.marina-de-paris. com. Port de Solférino (7th), 01 43 43 40 30. M° Solferino

of chef Guy Krenzer, who was awarded the prestigious finest craftsman of France title. www.yachtsdeparis.fr.

ATTRACTIONS AQUARIUM DE PARIS (CINEAQUA) Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Species from Guyana to the Seine, the Mediterranean Sea to the North Sea can be found swimming within. Sharks, clownfish, seahorses and eels are among the residents here. Visitors can also enjoy films, educational activities and workshops. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing, adults: 19.90€: children 13-17: 15.90€: 3-12: 12.90€. www.cineaqua.com. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna DISNEYLAND RESORT PARIS Open 365 days a year. Disneyland Park surrounds you with all your favourite characters and the latest attractions. The fantastic Hollywood Tower will terrify even the least squeamish. Le Festival des Moments Magiques Disney, a host of interactive exhibitions and encounters with your favourite Disney characters, from Peter

Pan to Rapunzel. Through Jan 6 Disney’s Enchanted Christmas. Walt Disney Studios Park offers 4 cinema lots and attractions with a cinematic theme. Disney Dreams! a magical show of light at nightfall at Sleeping Beauty’s castle. Daily 10am-7pm. Check website for opening hours on day of visit. One park: adults 62€, children 56€ (3-11yrs); combined ticket: adults 74€, children 66€. www.disneylandparis.com. RER A to Marne La Vallée/Chessy (40-65 min). LE MANOIR DE PARIS The urban legends of Paris come to life in this haunted manor house and listed historic monument. An interactive exhibition space invites visitors to live the legends of Paris from the Vampire Theatre to the phantom of the opera Fri 6pm-10pm & Sat, Sun 3pm-7pm. 25€. Please consult the web site for additional opening times. www.lemanoirdeparis.fr.

18 rue de Paradis, (10th). M° Château d’Eau PALAIS-ROYAL The Palais-Royal with its superb gardens offers a wonderful spot for strolling while the elegant and eclectic shops in the galleries that border the gardens are worth exploring. Some former famous residents of the apartments around the gardens include Colette and Jean Cocteau. The gardens and shops can be reached by the streets leading to the buildings. The palace, which houses the Conseil d’Etat, is closed to the public. Palais-Royal (1st). M° Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre Palais-Royal

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W H E R E PA R I S

7 TOP

MONUMENTS

Monuments Not to be Missed

1

ARC DE TRIOMPHE The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle

and boasts a fabulous view of the ChampsElysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am-10:30pm, closing, Adults 9.50€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle–Etoile

2

Place des Vosges

sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the

3

Europe’s fastest elevator will take you to the

5

hour from twilight to 2am. From Sept 2 through

top in 38 seconds to enjoy spectacular day

buildings with blue slate roofs. Shops, galleries

Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:45pm, Stairs

or night views of Paris from 196 metres high

and delightful cafés and boutiques line the

open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. From Jun 15 through

in the sky. Interactive exhibitions, a glass

sides of the square.

Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts). Last entries

enclosed terrace, a gourmet café and gift shop

Place des Vosges (4th). M° Chemin Vert

EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower

45 minutes before closing. Entry fee (5-14.50€ for adults) depends on how high you go. A champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro

MONTPARNASSE TOWER TOP OF PARIS Enjoy an exceptional panoramic visit of Paris from the Montparnasse Tower.

are all part of the experience. Daily, winter 9:30am-10:30pm, summer 9:30am-11:30pm, last lift half an hour before closing. www.tourmontparnasse56.com Rue de l’Arrivée (15th), 01 45 38 52 56. M° Montparnasse-Bienvenue

4

NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345,

One of the oldest squares in the French capital, this beautiful architectural ensemble is a historic monument with

a lovely green space surrounded by red brick

6

SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse

for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome and crypt 9am-5:45pm. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01.53.41.89.09. M° Anvers

towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-

7

10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr-Jun and Sep: 10am-

a cloud in the sky. Daily 9am-6pm, last tickets

5:45pm; Oct-Mar: 10am-4:45pm. 7.50€.

30 minutes before closing time, times may

6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th),

vary. 8.50€. Free for children under 18 and EU

01.42.34.56.10.

citizens under 26.

M° Cité

2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité

it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at

2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. www.crypte.paris.fr. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the

The Arc de Triomphe

PLACE DES VOSGES

SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass

windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t

ARC DE TRIOMPHE PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - AMÉLIE DUPONT; PLACE DES VOSGES PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - MARC BERTRAND

times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before

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TRADE SHOWS L’AIGUILLE EN FETE Feb 6-9, 9:30-7pm until 9pm on the 7th, until 5pm on the 9th. You will find all you need for knitting and needle work at this attractive trade fair. New creations and innovative textiles from all over the world are featured with lessons and workshops also available. Speed knitting and sewing championships are held during the show. www.aiguille-en-fete.com 1 Place de la Porte de Versailles (15th). M° Porte de Versailles or Tramway Line T3, Porte de Versailles CUIR A PARIS Feb 18-20, 9am-6:30pm. Professionals only. This trade show is devoted to leather, leatherwear and fur and features the latest trends, materials and designs. Myriad prototypes from shoes to bags from French and international designers are showcased. www.lecuiraparis.com Parc des Expositions Paris-Nord Villepinte. RER B: Parc des Expositions/ Shuttle service, daily, from Porte Maillot and CDG 1 & 2, every 30 min, from 8am-12pm and back from 4-7:30pm. MARCHE DE LA CREATION EDGAR QUINET Since 1997, this Montparnasse art market has been a spacious open-air art gallery where buyers can meet

up with the artists. Diverse works of art are on display ranging from paintings and ceramics to engravings and sculptures. The show finds its roots in the 1920s when the celebrated Montparnasse artists like Modigliani and Chagall exhibited their works outdoors. www.marchecreation.com Blvd Edgar Quinet (14th). M° Edgar Quinet PARAPSY Feb 12-17, 10:30am-8pm, until 10pm on the 12th-14th. This show is devoted to clairvoyance, telepathy, divination, the esoteric and alternative science and medicine. Healing, well-being, destiny readings, consultations and conferences are also on the agenda. www.salonparapsy.com Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th). M° Porte de Champerret RETROMOBILE Feb 5-9, 10am to 7pm, 11am to 10pm on the 5th, 10am to 10pm on the 7th. This is the show for vintage and collectable vehicles. This year the show pays special tribute to the Alpine racing car and the founder

of the brand, Jean Rédélé, an automotive pioneer and pilot. The Alpine participated in endurance world championships and today new models participate in rallies. www.retromobile.fr. Paris Expo (15th). M° Porte de Versailles or Tramway Line T3, Porte de Versailles SALON DU BIEN-ETRE, MEDECINE DOUCE AND THALASSO Feb 6-10, 10:30am-7pm. Health and well-being are featured here along with traditional and holistic medicine and mineral water therapy treatments. There are workshops for various products and treatments and a conference programme. www.salon-medecinedouce.com Paris Expo Porte de Versailles (15th). M° Porte de Versailles or Tramway Line T3, Porte de Versailles VIVEZ NATURE Through Feb 3, 10:30am-8pm, until 7pm on the 3rd. This show brings together organic foods as well as natural and environmentally friendly products and services. Conferences, workshops and demonstrations are all on the agenda. www.vivez-nature.com Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th). M° Porte de Champerret

AFFICHE RETROMOBILE © RÉTROMOBILE

ARC DE TRIOMPHE PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - AMÉLIE DUPONT; PLACE DES VOSGES PHOTO © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - MARC BERTRAND

[ A R T S & AT T R A C T I O N S ]

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W H E R E PA R I S

DINING

Clever restaurateurs Caroline and Sophie

deviled eggs, and freshly sliced ham and then

Rostang, the daughters of chef Michel Rostang,

a main course cooked on a Josper grill that

have a hit on their hands with Café des Abattoirs,

comes to the table in a cast-iron casserole. The

the stylish but cosy new table for carnivores

Scottish Black Angus bavette (skirt steak) I chose

near the Place du Marché Saint Honoré in the

was succulent and full of flavour, and came to

heart of Paris. The dining room is dominated by

the table with a small, welcome avalanche of

a gorgeous antique glass sign that belonged

frites and a selection of homemade sauces,

to their great grandmother and which once

including homemade mustard and a delicious

hung in a hotel that the family owned, and a tan

tomato-horseradish condiment. Seasoned with

glass, carafe and bottle, and the Rostang sisters

leather mural on the main wall depicts some

preserved lemon, curry, coriander, garlic and

ensure a great ambiance. Note that in addition

of the animals that figure in the three prix-fixe

shallots, the lamb kebab my friend opted for was

to table seating, they also serve at the counter,

menus served here. Every menu begins with

excellent too. I finished up with a large piece of

which makes this a perfect address for anyone

an assortment of delicious hors d’oeuvres, the

runny Camembert, and she chose a slice of the

dining on their own and they are also open daily.

night I came for dinner, we were served little

tart of the day, a well-made open pear tart.

– Alexander Lobrano

ramekins of superb cream of mushroom soup,

An interesting selection of wines is served by the

10 rue Gamboust (1st), 01 76 21 77 60

CAFE DES ABATOIRS PHOTOS © SERGE DETALLE

CAFÉ DES ABATTOIRS

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[DINING]

THE GUIDELINES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. GENERAL INFORMATION Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. Value Added Tax (VAT, written in French as TVA) is automatically included in the bill, as is the service charge. While tipping is not compulsory, it is appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS B, L & D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner. AE: American Express, V: Visa, MC: Mastercard PRICES Set Meals: Prices are per person. A la carte: Price per person for three courses without wine. € – 30€ or less per person €€ – 31€-50€ per person €€€ – 51€-100€ per person €€€€ – 101€-150€ per person €€€€€ – 151€ and above per person

LE TOURNESOL

Step into the sun-filled Le Tournesol restaurant that has been completely renovated and has brought the 1920s back with its very chic décor. The authentic bistro that has been around since 1927 has had a makeover, and is now adorned in dazzling gold and serves authentic bistro fare. Located in the very chic 16th arrondissement not too far from the Passy shopping district and the emblematic Eiffel Tower, Le Tournesol is a great address to enjoy simple food, in a glamorous dining room that transports you to another time. To start enjoy the saucisson served with fresh radish and butter or try the very French snails. The traditional tartare is also served here along with a bacon cheeseburger. For dessert don’t miss the homemade chocolate mousse, served in a huge bowl, it is made to share for 2, 3 or 4 people, so make sure you convince your dinner party that it is the dessert to order or you will be stuck with it all on your own, which may not be a bad idea after all! – S.I. 2 ave de Lamballe (16th), 01 45 25 95 94

GRAN CAFFÉ CO N V I V I U M Just off avenue des Champs-Elysées, on rue Marbeuf, you will find a convivial atmosphere and authentic Sicilian cuisine at the Gran Caffé Convivium restaurant. Generous Italian portions are served here seven days a week from breakfast to midnight. Start your day with a Cornetto, a cream-filled brioche croissant, and a real cappuccino or if you prefer savoury for breakfast try the Sfoglio Catanese, a mozzarella and ham filled pastry. From midday through to midnight, with non-stop service, you can enjoy delicious and

LE TOURNESOL © GUILLERMO ANIEL-QUIROGA

authentic Sicilian dishes including a hearty parmigiana, 22 different pizzas to choose from and 23 pasta dishes including the Ravioli dello Chef, cheese ravioli served with a creamy sauce, mushrooms and asparagus. The menu also features Gnocchi al Pomodoro e Mozzarella, a filling serving of gnocchi with a thick tomato sauce and mozzarella. Make sure you leave room for dessert though with the homemade tiramisu here being one of the best in the city. – S.I. 28 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01 45 63 53 53 w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m 49

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W h e r e pa r i s

In the Mood for Asian Cuisine? Au Coin des Gourmets A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. Their Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. 38 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01 42 60 79 79

Ta o K a n On the Left Bank, on a very quaint street found nestled near Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, is the wonderfully delicious Chinese restaurant, TaoKan. In a contemporary setting, chef Tien-Dat Au works in an open kitchen where he prepares a menu that features dishes from various regions of China. Taking you on a tasting voyage from Canton to Shanghai, you can sample contemporary Chinese dishes including Su Gai Shala, a refreshing vegetable salad served with a sesameinfused vinaigrette, Ya Song, duck served with Hoisin sauce and small mandarin crêpes, and Gu Xiang Jian Xia, steamed prawns served with sweet soy sauce and mushrooms. The menu also features a selection of dim sum and a dessert menu that includes chocolate spring rolls. – S.I. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01 42 84 18 36

Lao Lane Xang 2 Located in the 13th arrondissement in the heart of Paris’s Chinatown, this restaurant serves authentic Asian cuisine featuring traditional dishes from Laos, Vietnam and Thailand. Enjoy a generous serving of Phad Thai noodles, or choose between a green and a red curry. 102 ave d’Ivry (13th), 01 58 89 00 00 Shang Palace This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La Hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Specialties include marinated sliced beef in spices, salmon sashimi and barbecued pork in honey sauce. Dim sum is served as well. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01 53 67 19 92 La Table du Vietnam This recently opened restaurant takes you on a journey through three different provinces of Vietnam, Hanoi, Saigon and Hue. The menu includes Pho, a traditional Vietnamese soup with beef, and Bun La Table du Viêtnam, a rice noodles dish served with pork or beef, shrimps and vegetables. The menu also features vegetarian dishes including Banh Cuôn, rice ravioli filled with mushroom and tofu. 6 ave Bosquet (7th), 01 45 56 97 26

La Table du Vietnam

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[Dining]

La Table du Vietnam

For cl a ssic French fare book a table at… BRASSERIE DU LOUVRE  Classic French Just steps from the Palais Royal and the Louvre Museum, savour a delicious lunch or dinner in a delightful setting. The homemade foie gras is excellent and the risotto, one of the best in Paris. Classics, like sole meunière or braised lamb with carrots are cooked to perfection. Sweet desserts, friendly service and an excellent wine list round out the experience. Daily B, L & D. €€€ (Cards: all) 1 place André Malraux (1st), 01.44.58.37.21. M° Palais Royal

Brasserie du Louvre (both photos)

LE SOUFFLE  Soufflé This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the soufflé. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of soufflés, a classic French menu is proposed. Reservations are highly recommended. Mon-Sat L & D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 181x132 WHERE-FEVRIER_14.qxp_Mise en page 1 17/12/2013 11:46 Page1 01.42.60.27.19. M° Concorde

Seafood, a Parisian culture.

L’ESCARGOT MONTORGUEIL Classic French Within the authentic, beautiful walls of Second Empire décor delect truly fine food. Snails, of course remain a specialty with the freshest of fish or hearty meat dishes following. Classic desserts like crepes Suzette and Grand Marnier soufflé are prepared to perfection. Daily L & D. €€€€ (AE, Diners, JCB, V) 38 rue Montorgueil (1st), 01.42.36.83.51. M° Etienne Marcel CAFE DE LA PAIX  Classic French This classic Parisian institution with its décor of painted ceiling, pillars and murals is an elegant place to watch the world go by over coffee, light meals or drinks from its terraces. Fine fare is featured in the restaurant. On Sundays enjoy one of the biggest buffet brunches in Paris with jazz and a special space for children, available from noon to 3:30pm. Daily B, L & D. €€/€€€ (Cards: all). 5 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.40.07.36.36. M° Opéra

L’Auberge Dab Tel. 01 45 00 32 22 161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from noon - 3pm and from 7pm to 2am - Valet parking available www.auberge-dab.com Congrès Maillot Tel. 01 45 74 17 24 80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 2am Valet parking available www.congres-maillot.com

Les Grandes Marches Tel. 01 43 42 90 32 6, place de la Bastille - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.grandes-marches.com L’Européen Tel. 01 43 43 99 70 21 bis, boulevard Diderot - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 1am www.l-europeen.com

Agence-pashmina.com - Crédit photo : Francis Hammond

Congrès Auteuil Tel. 01 46 51 15 75 144, boulevard Exelmans - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.congres-auteuil.com

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W h e r e pa r i s

The view from the Jules Verne

Dining with a View GEORGES  World Cuisine Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a spaceage decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2am. €€€ (Cards: all). Reservations required. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. M° Rambuteau JULES VERNE Haute Cuisine This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) Eiffel Tower, 2nd

floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. M° Bir-Hakeim

KONG  Fusion A spectacular glass-roofed penthouse restaurant with a magnificent view of the city. Designed by Philippe Starck, it is inspired by manga comics. Serving delicious Asian-fusion dishes. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 1 rue du Pont-Neuf (1st), 01.40.39.09.00. M° Pont-Neuf LA TOUR D’ARGENT Classic French A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. €€€€€, lunch menu €65 (AE, DC, MC, V) 15-17 quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. M° Maubert-Mutualité LE CIEL DE PARIS Gourmet Discover Paris from the 56th floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Alternatively, opt for a glass of bubbly or a champagne cocktail in their Champagne Bar.

Daily L&D. €€€ (Cards: all) 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. M° Montparnasse

MAISON BLANCHE Contemporary Chef Hervé Nepple serves cuisine for the senses, inventive, savoury and refined fare. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. You can also enjoy the establishment’s terrace where you can sip a cocktail or champagne. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D €€€€ (AE, MC, V) 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. M° Alma Marceau MONSIEUR BLEU Contemporary This brasserie serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Well-prepared French dishes include steak tartare, frogs’ legs with garlic and parsley and calf’s liver flavoured with pomegranate juice. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous service from 12pm to 2am. €€ (V). 20 ave du President Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna

Jules Verne photo © Matt Aletti

CAFE MARLY  Contemporary In the Louvre, a trendy café-restaurant with an interior view over a sculpture gallery and an outdoor dining area overlooking the Louvre’s glass pyramid. Daily 8am-2am. €€ (Cards: all) 93 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.49.26.06.60. M° Palais Royal

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W h e r e pa r i s [ D i n i n g ]

GOURMET

Michel Rostang at the truffle market

A black truffle dish at La Truffière

La Maison de la Truffe

Trailing the

Tasteful Truffle By Pat r i c i a Va l i c en t i The black truffle of winter is now upon us. aptly named Tuber aestivum harvested from Tuber melanosporum is a culinary delight May to September. that cooks and the otherwise gastronomically The truffle in Parisian restaurants is no trifling initiated have never really found enough matter with some spots specialised in this fruit superlatives for. The black truffle is of the good earth, like La Truffière found in the Périgord, Quercy where chef Jean Christophe and Vaucluse regions of Rizet, has written a book on France as well as Spain and the subject. The one-star Italy and to a lesser extent restaurant’s menu, where Croatia, Hungary and the truffle culture abounds, the centre of France. It is features dishes such as the fruit of the symbiotic scrambled eggs with truffles relationship between and raviolis of truffles and Fresh black truffles a mushroom and root beef marrow. Meanwhile, La at La Truffière formed in the secrecy of the Maison de la Truffe is a lovely underworld and which was called spot on the gastronomic Place de la the diamond of cuisine by the writer Madeleine for truffle inspired lunches or and epicurean Brillat-Savarin. dinners. The baked potato with pearls of black truffle in truffled cream is sinfully delicious In addition to the magnificent melanosporum, and fine foie gras marbled with truffles is a there are between 32 and 36 other species of specialty. truffles lying in the ground. The sought after white truffle, the Tuber magnatum, called the Over at Terres de Truffes, the menu revolves truffle of Alba, is an autumnal species while around the truffle that is in season. Generous the Tuber uncinatum, called the grey truffle pairings include smoked salmon with thinly of Burgundy, abounds from mid-September sliced truffles and prawns with truffles served to mid-January and even summer brings the with risotto. For the cheese course, a truffled

Brie de Meaux is on offer, with desserts also featuring the truffle. Truffles can also be savoured in the sumptuous setting of the twostar gastronomic Michel Rostang restaurant. Every year, Michel Rostang, who is passionate about truffles, journeys to the market of Richerenches, the leading truffle market in Europe, to select his Tuber melanosporum which he uses, for example, in his violet artichoke soup, puff pastry of black truffle and warm foie gras and on a more casual note and on order, his celebrated truffle sandwich.

Addresses La Maison de la Truffe

19 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01 42 65 53 22/14 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01 53 57 41 00 La Truffière

4 rue Blainville (5th), 01 46 33 29 82 Michel Rostang

20 rue Rennequin (17th), 01 47 63 40 77 Terres de Truffes

21 rue Vignon (8th), 01 53 43 80 44

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FRENCH i CLASSICS

Top Parisian Addresses for the Best and Sweetest French Toast La GuingUette de Neuilly Restaurant 12 blvd Georges Seurat, 92200 Neuillysur-Seine, 01 46 24 25 04

Paris Brest La PAtisserie des REves 111 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01 47 04 00 24

Pâtisseries des Rêves’s Paris Brest

Millefeuille Monsieur Bleu Restaurant 20 ave de New York (16th), 01 47 20 90 47

Mont Blanc

  DURAND DUPONT FRENCH CUISINE

4Open 4 4O Open pen everyday, service non stop from 8am to 2am 4 4Brunch Brunch every Sunday 4Patio available4Afterwork DJ’s 4 Patio and terrace available Afterwork Monday to Saturday evenings with DJ D J’s ’s

Angelina 226 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 82 00

Chocolate Eclair Stohrer 51 rue Montorgueil (2nd), 01 42 33 38 20

Salted Caramel Macaron Carette 4 place du Trocadéro (16th), 01 47 27 98 85

Grand-Marnier Ice-Cream Berthillon 29 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01 43 54 31 61

Nutella Crepe 142 CrEperie Contemporaine 59 rue Saint Charles (15th), 01 40 59 84 01

Situated on a quiet square in the west of Paris, next to Porte Maillot, this restaurant not only offers delicious French fare but also a charming terrace to soak in the Parisian sun. Durand Dupont is an ideal table for a business lunch or a dinner in the intimate patio. And from the cellar, you can enjoy the ideal wine choosen by the best sommeliers to accompany a variety of dishes.

For an appetizer try the sea bass crisp with mango sauce then lamb shanks with Soissons beans or grilled prawns with Laos rice for a main dish.

14 Place du Marché (92 - Neuilly sur Seine) / Metro: Porte Maillot / Les Sablons Tel: 01 41 92 93 00 www.duranddupont.com

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W h e r e p a r i s [ D ining ]

FINE DINING

Hélène Darroze

L’Abeille Gourmet This two-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers a sophisticated menu of French gastronomic cuisine created by talented chef Philippe Labbé. In the elegant dining area enjoy dishes such as royal scampi steamed with lemon cream and flavoured with walnut oil and roasted coffee. Tues-Sat, D. €€€€€ (cards: all). 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna

LE GRAND VEFOUR Modern Classic The opulent three-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri L only. €€€€(Cards: all) 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal

APICIUS Contemporary The two-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule

HELENE DARROZE Southwestern French Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. €€€. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone

LE CINQ Gourmet Chef Eric Briffard offers wonderful dishes like purple sea urchin in creamy fennel broth. Superbly aged cheeses and delectable desserts, like the Peruvian chocolate stuffed tart, follow. Serious wine list, and fantastic flowers by American florist Jeff Leatham. Daily L&D. €€€€€ (Cards: all) Four Seasons Hôtel George V, 31 ave George V (8th), 01.49.52.70.00. Mº George V

JULES VERNE Haute Cuisine This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim

EPICURE Gourmet The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Fréchon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. €€€€€ (Cards: all) Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil

le MEURICE - ALAIN DUCASSE Modern Classic A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring classic fare using the finest French regional products. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. €€€€€. (cards: all) Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. M° Tuileries

RELAIS LOUIS XIII Classic French In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. €€€€ (AE, MC, V) 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº St Michel LE RESTAURANT Neo-Baroque In the legendary hotel called L’Hotel, the neoBaroque one-star restaurant is where head chef Julien Montabut prepares seasonal and classically French cuisine with a distinctive light and modern touch. Dishes include pan fried scallops with girolle mushrooms for a starter or a main course of line sea bass roasted with spices. Daily B Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (Cards: all) 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.01. Mº Odéon LE SERGENT RECRUTEUR Gourmet This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. €€€ (AE, MC, V). 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Isle (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. Mº Pont Marie LA TOUR D’ARGENT Classic French A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. €€€€€, lunch menu €65 (AE, DC, MC, V) 15-17 quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

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DINING TIME ADVERTORIAL

Chinese cuisine, 6th

TAOKAN

Indian cuisine, 8th

French cuisine, 8th

SANTOOR

LE MADELEINE C.

◗ 8 rue du Sabot ◗ M° Sèvres-Babylone ◗ Tel: 01.42.84.18.36 ◗ www.taokan.fr

◗ 5 rue Castellane, M° Madeleine ◗ Menu in different languages ◗ Tel: 01.42.65.00.12 ◗ www.madeleine-c.fr

◗ 30 rue Marbeuf ◗ M° Franklin D. Roosevelt ◗ Tel: 01.42.56.33.18 ◗ www.restaurant-indien-santoor.fr

In the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, discover contemporary Chinese gastronomy. In a refined and elegant décor, the menu offers an inventive and fine panorama of specialties and showcases homemade Dim Sum. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner and Sunday dinner.

The chef recommends scallops with julienne vegetables in a light sauce, filet of beef with mushrooms, foie gras and fries, 1/2 a lobster and large prawns, lobster cream sauce with spring vegetables and rice. 7/7 (6:30pm-midnight). Free glass of champagne for where® readers.

Two minutes walk from the Champs-Elysées. Specializing in tandoori (Indian barbecue) and curries, both spicy and mild, served in beautiful surroundings with silk paintings and antique-style carved wooden crafts.

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PARIS CELEBRATES

A NEW SEASON

PICTURE

PERFECT Paris Celebrates Photography

9 W H E R E PA R I S I O C T O B E R 2013

FASHION

FASHION

CULTURE

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CULTURE

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W h e r e pa r i s [ D i n i n g ]

A hearty Boeuf Bourguignon

B e s t W i n t e r E at i n g i n Pa r i s By A l e x a n d er Lo b r a n o Boeuf Bourguignon On a frosty day, few dishes are more comforting than this Burgundian classic of beef braised in red wine with onion, mushrooms and herbs. Served in a castiron casserole with a side of tagliatelle, the version served at Josephine Chez Dumonet, a charming old-fashioned Left Bank bistro, is generous enough to feed two, although it’s so good that sharing is not always easy. 117 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01 45 48 52 40

Blanquette de Veau This delicate veal ragout is one of the great classics of the French kitchen. Veal is cooked with a mirepoix (chopped vegetables), and the resulting juices are enriched with a roux, cream of egg yolks, along with onions and mushrooms. It’s generally served with white rice, and one of the best in Paris is found at the recently opened Bistrot Bellet, a stylish new table in the up-andcoming 10th arrondissement. 84 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis (10th), 01 45 23 42 06

Choucroute Garnie On a nippy winter day, there are few French dishes more consoling than this stick-toyour-ribs Alsatian specialty of juniper-berry brightened sauerkraut topped with several different types of sausage, smoked bacon and several different cuts of pork. It’s eaten with boiled potatoes and lashings of sharp mustard and is best enjoyed with a good bottle of Alsatian white wine. Be forewarned that a starter is rarely necessary before tucking into this copiously served dish. Many brasseries in Paris

boeuf bourguignon photo © 2013 Thinkstock – iStock – hlphoto

Where to go for the

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RATN

INDIAN MOGHOL GASTRONOMY serve choucroute garnie, but one of the best is found at Le Ballon des Ternes, a dining room with a pretty art deco interior near the Porte Maillot. Open daily. 103 ave des Ternes (17th), 01 45 74 17 98

4The Magic of India, open every day, 12pm - 2.45pm / 7.15pm-11.45pm 4Recommended by Michelin, Gault Millau, Pudlo, Bottin 4Business lunch, air conditioned

CASSOULET Simmered slowly for hours, cassoulet, a rich baked casserole of white beans, preserved duck and sausage, is an ancient classic of the southwestern French kitchen. In Paris, this hearty dish is a specialty of the cosy and friendly Auberge Pyrénées Cévennes, a pleasantly oldfashioned good-value-for-money address in an off-the-beaten track corner of the 11th arrondissement. 106 rue de la Folie Méricourt (11th), 01 43 57 33 78

OYSTERS Winter is the prime season for oyster eating in Paris, and France produces the world’s best bivalves. Healthy, delicious and fat-free, they’re one of the season’s most satisfying delicacies. For an oyster feast on the Left Bank, head for the Huîtrerie Regis in SaintGermain-des-Prés. This hole-in-the-wall serves nothing but freshly shucked oysters from the Marennes Oléron with good bread and butter and a nice selection of mostly Loire Valley whites. No reservations 3 rue Montfaucon (6th), 01 44 41 10 07 On the Right Bank, Ballon et Coquillages is a friendly little storefront with counter seating and an excellent selection of oysters, along with other shellfish. No reservations. 71 blvd Gouvion-St-Cyr (17th), 01 45 74 17 98 POTAUFEU Many Paris restaurants serve pot-au-feu, the chill-banishing dish of beef boiled with marrowbones, cabbage, carrots and other vegetables served with sides of coarse sea salt and horseradish. For something a little different, but no less delicious, head for L’Avant Gout, where chef Christophe Beaufort does two different pork pot-au-feu that have become signature dishes at his popular bistro. Try the classic version with pork cooked with spices and vegetables in a deeply flavoured bouillon, or the Retour de Tokyo (Just Back from Tokyo), which comes with vegetable tempura, soba (buckwheat noodles), marinated ginger, and horseradish. 26 rue Bobillot (13th), 01 53 80 24 00

Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in Indian Moghol Gastronomy of the 17th century and immortalises the beautiful north Indian culinary traditions. RATN invites you to discover the finest specialties in tandoori and curries.

9 rue de la Tremoille, Paris 8th (Metro: George V) - Tel: 01 40 70 01 09

www.restaurantratn.com

where

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ASK YOUR CONCIERGE Remember that your concierge is delighted to be there to tell you about shops, restaurants, exhibitions, shows and more, so don’t hesitate to ask for helpful hints and assistance. © Ranadeva Singh

FONDUE Few things are more consoling on a winter’s day than a gently bubbling pot of cheese fondue to share with friends. At the cosy Pain, Vin, Fromages restaurant in the Marais, the simple rustic décor recalls the chalets in the Savoie region of France where it’s a cold-season classic, and the snugly spaced tables create a convivial atmosphere. Go for one of the six different fondues, or try the raclette, a preparation of melted cheese by the same name served with boiled potatoes, charcuterie and cornichons. Open daily. 3 rue Geoffroy-l’Angevin (4th), 01 42 74 07 52

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W H E R E PA R I S [ D I N I N G ]

JUST OUTSIDE OF PARIS

L’Ile

WORTH THE DISTANCE

D I S C O V E R T H E S E G R E AT TA B L E S A R O U N D P A R I S

L’ILE Classic French Nestled in a setting of lush greenery, this restaurant is housed in a Napoleon III pavilion. Finely prepared classics include marinated Scottish salmon and sole meunière. The superb terrace is opened throughout the year. Daily L & D. €€ (AE, MC, V). L’Ile Saint-Germain, 170 quai Stalingrad, Issy-les-Moulineaux, 01.41.09.99.99. Tramway Line T2, stop: Issy Val-de-Seine; RER C, stop: Issy Val de Seine

JARASSE Classic French An excellent fish restaurant run by two-star chef Michel Rostang and his daughter, serving such dishes as breaded grilled mussels and wokseared tuna with foie gras. Good reasonably priced wines. Daily. L & D. €€/€€€ (Cards: all) 4 ave de Madrid, Neuilly-surSeine (92), 01.46.24.07.56. Mº Pont de Neuilly LES MAGNOLIAS Contemporary A one-star restaurant with wildly inventive cuisine, including such dishes as rabbit “cookies” with a gherkin île flottante. Tue-Fri L & D, Sat D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 48 ave de Bry, Le Perreux-surMarne, 01.48.72.47.43. A 15-min taxi ride, or RER to Nogent-Le Perreux, then walk 10 min L’O RESTAURANT Contemporary Enjoy refined French and international cuisine on the waterfront in this restaurant in

V E G G I E

Tuck Shop

CONVIVIUM A lively atmosphere and authentic Sicilian cuisine 28 rue Marbeuf (8th) 01 45 63 53 53

a barge moored on the Seine. Specialties include Cesar salad with crab, homemade tarama and market-based fare. Valet parking. Daily L & D. €€ (AE, MC, V). 47 quai Michelet, LevalloisPerret, 01.41.34.32.86. Mº Pont de Levallois-Bécon ORIENT EXTREME Japanese Fine, contemporary Japanese cuisine is served in this elegant, luminous restaurant. Start with a salad of baby spinach and green asparagus followed by grilled black cod marinated in miso or Wagyu beef in ponzu sauce. The cheesecake is a superb choice for dessert. Valet parking. Mon-Sat L, D. €€/€€€ (MC,V). 36bis rue de Sablonville, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92), 01.46.24.94.14. M°Porte Maillot/Les Sablons LE PRE CATELAN Classic French An elegant, century-old retreat

F R I E N D L Y

TUCK SHOP 100% vegetarian and serves great coffee 13 rue Lucien Sampaix (10th), 09 80 72 95 40

M.O.B Only vegan dishes found on this menu 34 quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01 42 77 51 05

in the Bois de Boulogne, where Frédéric Anton serves such delicious dishes as small étrille crabs in a coral-and-caviar gelée in this three-star restaurant. Tue-Sat L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) Route de Suresnes, Bois de Boulogne (16th), 01.44.14.41.14. Car or taxi recommended. LE SEBILLON Classic French A favourite spot in the chic suburb of Neuilly right beside the Palais des Congrès serving wonderful oysters, crayfish and lobster. Try the perfectly cooked leg of lamb carved at your table and enjoy the elegant yet family-style atmosphere. The giant éclair comes in both chocolate and coffee flavours. Daily L & D. €€/€€€ (Cards: all) 20 ave Charles de Gaulle, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92), 01.46.24.71.31. Mº Porte Maillot

TUCK SHOP PHOTO © PAUL MOUGINOT

DURAND DUPONT Contemporary This is the perfect spot for business or casual meals in a cosy and clubby atmosphere with a fine outdoor patio for warm weather days. The refined market-based cuisine changes with the seasons. Daily. B, L & D, continuous service until 2am. €€€ (AE, V). 14 pl du Marché, Neuilly-sur-Seine (92), 01.41.92.93.00. Mº Porte Maillot/Les Sablons

T A B L E S

KINUGAWA Chic dining on Japanese cuisine 9 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01 42 60 65 07

LE RELAIS GASCON Large, hearty salads are served at this café 6 rue des Abbesses (18th), 01 42 58 22

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gourmet inspiration ADVERtisEmEnt

WEPLER

LE BISTROT DU 7ÈME

TRADITIONAL FRENCh CuIsINE 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Lunch & Dinner menu 29e 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com

BIsTRO 4Seasonal products 4Daily (Lunch and Dinner) 4Lunch menu from 16e / Dinner menu 25e 4Terrace

One of the finest French onion soups in the capital, savour crayfish in cherry sauce, lobsters from Brittany, a marmite from Marseille served as a bouillabaisse and the Wepler classics from potted duck to savoury sauerkrauts.

14 Place de Clichy, Paris 18 Metro: Place de Clichy | Tel: 01 45 22 53 24 th

NOS ANCÊTRES LES GAULOIS MEDIEVAL AMBIANCE 4All-inclusive menu priced at 40e 4Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon-3pm 4www.nosancetreslesgaulois.com

Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. The all-inclusive menu, priced at 40€, features meats grilled over the fire and all the Bordeaux wine you need served from the pitcher.

39 rue Saint-Louis en l’Ile, Paris 4th Ile Saint-Louis Metro: Pont Marie | Tel: 01 46 33 66 07

A fine selection of appetisers, main courses and desserts are found here including lobster terrine, Burgundy snails for starters and fresh gilt-head bream or duck breast in pepper sauce for mains. Dinner is by candlelight. Reservations highly recommended.

56 blvd de la Tour-Maubourg, Paris 7th Metro: La Tour Maubourg | Tel: 01 45 51 93 08

LE LOUCHÉBEM TRADITIONAL FRENCh CuIsINE 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr

This quintessential les Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes. The pot roast salad is superb and the unique all you can eat platter of beef, roast ham and leg of lamb at 23,90€ is not to be missed.

31 rue Berger, Paris 1st Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles | Tel: 01 42 33 12 99

LE LAMFÉ

LE CAFÉ DE L’ALMA

TRADITIONAL FRENCh CuIsINE 4Lamfé means the butcher’s wife 4Special Salers beef menu at 19.90e 4Unlimited carpaccio: 20.90e 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lamfe.fr

CONTEMpORARy CuIsINE 4Fine cooking and non-stop Service 4www.cafe-de-l-alma.com

Succulent meats from the butcher are to be savoured here. Inventive, refined appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured camembert are worth the detour. The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm.

7 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1st Metro: Châtelet / Les Halles | Tel: 01 45 08 04 10

Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The menu features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent.

5 ave Rapp, Paris 7th Metro: Alma-Marceau | Tel: 01 45 51 56 74

zITI

LE GASTROQUET

ITALIAN REsTAuRANT 4Monday-Saturday, lunch and dinner from noon -3pm and in the evening from 7pm-midnight 4www.ziti.fr

CLAssIC FRENCh 4Lunch & Dinner, Monday to Saturday 4www.gastroquet.com

Classic Italian specialties are served in this lively eatery off the ChampsElysées. Starters include a bresaolabased salad and Parma ham aged for 20 months. Homemade pastas are on the agenda with for example linguine in tuna and tomato sauce.

60 rue Pierre Charron, Paris 8th Metro: Franklin Roosevelt | Tel: 01 45 63 48 48

This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Main courses include sautéed turbot and veal liver in a candied lemon sauce. The iced mousse whiskey and Baileys is an original dessert choice.

10 rue Desnouettes, Paris 15th Metro: Convention/Porte de Versailles | Tel: 01 48 28 60 91 w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. c o m   61

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[address book]

dining g o u r m e t s e r v i c e at y o u r f i n g e r t i p s

Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd) Au Coin Des Gourmets - CAmboDiAnVietnAmese-LAotiAn (€€). A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde Aux LYonnAis - bistro (€€). A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue St-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot beeF CLub - bistro (€€€). As its name implies this bistro serves fine beef and meat dishes. Sumptuous cuts of beef are served baked or grilled and the burgers are served on a homemade bun. Starters include oysters, beef marrow and asparagus. Daily D only. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Etienne Marcel bistrot CApuCine - bistrot (€€). The marketbased menu in this cosy neighbourhood bistro changes daily. Recent offerings included poached cod with squid ink risotto and a very fine prime rib of beef is on the agenda in the evening. Cheese includes a classic Brie de Meaux while the excellent wine list offers some unusual finds. Mon-Fri L & D. 22 rue des Capucines (1st), 01.49.26.91.30. Mº Opéra bistro VoLnAY - bistrot (€€€). Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra bistrot riCheLieu - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). This bistro with an inviting terrace serves up traditional French fare. Typical classics like onion soup and snails from Burgundy can be savoured for starters. Be tempted by the breast of duck in fig sauce or the sea bass in basil cream. Continuous service 9am-11:30pm. Mon-Fri L & D, Sat D only. 45 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.60.19.16. Mº Palais Royal LA tour De montLhérY-Chez Denise bistro (€€). This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles

Chez FLot tes - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). This Parisian brasserie is known for high quality products from Aveyron, characterised by a tradition of copious comfort foods, alongside superb meats and a fine selection of appetizers and salads. Daily from 7am-2am. 2 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.80.89. Mº Concorde DjAkArtA bALi - inDonesiAn (€). An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli Goust - Gourmet (€€€). Located on the first floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterranean-style cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. The menus change regularly but dishes can include tuna tartar with mango sauce or prawns with mushrooms. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01 40 15 20 30. M° Opéra kinuGAwA - jApAnese (€€€). Refined, traditional Japanese cuisine at its best is to be found in this restaurant specialised in dishes from Kyoto. The sushi bar is regarded as one of the finest in the French capital. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries Le bAuDeLAire - meDiterrAneAn (€€€). At this one-star restaurant, opening onto a quiet patio in the Burgundy Hotel, Chef Pierre Rigothier prepares seasonal products underscored by a menu that changes regularly while pastry chef Stéphane Tranchet prepares delicious desserts. L, Mon-Fri, D, Tues-Sat. 6-8 Rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine Le Costes - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). Très chic hotel restaurant with Napoleon III decor and plenty of attitude. The food’s okay but the star-studded scene’s the thing. Pretty interior patio. Daily B, L, D. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.25. Mº Tuileries Le CosY - bistrot (€). In a cosy atmosphere, this typically Parisian bistro nestled into the intimate rue du Mont Thabor offers up traditional French cuisine through simple and savoury fare. The chef prepares his dishes with fresh products that will be thoroughly enjoyed by lovers of fine food. MonFri, B, L & D, continuous service, 8am-11pm/Sat brunch 10am-4pm. 26 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.92.01.41. M° Concorde Le GrAnD VeFour - moDern CLAssiC (€€€€). The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal Le LAmFé - CLAssiC FrenCh (€).Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will

suggest a list of starters like the baked Camembert with thyme or the home-made foie gras from Les Landes. Refined appetizers, like a classic marrow bone, are followed by fine beef dishes including a noble rib steak. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet Le meuriCe-ALAin DuCAsse - moDern CLAssiC (€€€€€). A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring stuffed cabbage with foie gras and black truffle cooked for two as a starter and sea bass fillet and sea scallops. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries Le LouChebem - bistro (€). Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles Le souFFLé - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde pAssAGe 53 - bistro (€€€). Japanese chef Shinichi Sato prepares superb French cuisine with a light Japanese touch using the finest of ingredients, like meat from Desnoyer. Located in the oldest covered arcade in town, this two-star restaurant offers an authentically Parisian experience. Tues-Sat. L&D. 53 passage des Panoramas (2nd), 01.42.33.04.35. Mº Grands Boulevards

Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) GeorGes - worLD Cuisine (€€€). Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a space-age decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Reservations required. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau L’Ambroisie - hAute Cuisine (€€€€€). In a beautiful 17th-century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Fabulous foie gras. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº St-Paul Le serGent reCruteur - Gourmet (€€€). This one-star restaurant serves market-based cuisine that changes on a daily basis. Meats of an exceptional quality, fresh-caught fish from the Loire River, homemade butter and a blend of coffee made especially for the house are all on the agenda. Tues-Sun L&D. 41 rue St-Louis-en-L’Ile (4th), 01.43.54.75.43. M° Pont Marie minimes - brAsserie (€€€). This brasserie in the Marais neighbourhood serves contemporary French cuisine in a relaxing atmosphere with an upstairs dining room offering a boudoir décor. Enjoy a classic foie gras or a fresh artichoke salad flavoured with truffle oil. Daily B, L & D. 36 rue de Turenne (3rd), 01.42.71.36.70. M° Chemin Vert nos AnCÊtres Les GAuLois - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). Dine in hearty, bountiful Gaulic splendour fit for a feast. Enjoy the rustic décor and tavern ambiance, a great board and rousing guitar music. Daily, D, from 7pm, L, Sat & Sun only, noon3pm. 39 rue St Louis en l’Ile (4th), 01.46.33.66.07. Mº Pont Marie

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only. 62  W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2014

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QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) A LC A z A r - b r A s s e r i e ( € € € ) . E n g l i s h restaurateur Terence Conran’s big, cool, noisy brasserie-bar, with contemporary French and fusion dishes such as scallops with grapefruit and green papaya. Daily L&D until 1 am. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon Au mouLin à Vent - bistro (€€). This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Among the authentic offerings are prime rib with Béarnaise sauce, calf’s liver and frog legs. A delightful dessert is the Baba au rhum. Valet parking. Tues–Fri L&D/ Sat D only. 20 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu CAFé De FLore - bistrot (€€). The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés CAFé Des Deux mAGots - CAFé (€€). The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The corner location facing the church makes it slightly more touristy than the rival Café de Flore, and prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 place Saint-Germain (6 th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés GuY mArtin itALiA - itALiAn (€€€). Antipasti, cold meats and marinated vegetables are delightful starters in this authentic Italian restaurant established by Guy Martin. Chef Fabrizio La Mantia prepares a safran risotto and roast swordfish to perfection. Daily L & D. 19 rue Bréa (6th), 01.43.27.08.80. Mº Vavin héLène DArroze - southwestern FrenCh (€€). Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone LAperouse - Gourmet (€€€). This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº St-Michel

rALph’s - AmeriCAn (€€€). Ralph Lauren’s restaurant, found in the discreet courtyard of the designer’s Saint Germain boutique, is where you can enjoy fabulous American cuisine including cheeseburgers and hotdogs. For dessert try their generously sized chocolate chip cookies. Reservations are essential. Mon-Sat L&D, Sun Brunch & D. 173 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.44.77.76.00. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés tAokAn - Chinese (€€€). Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Main courses include whole sole served with ginger soy marinade or duck in Hoisin sauce with dainty pancakes. Valet parking available. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° St-Sulpice ze kitChen GALerie - Fusion (€€). Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº St Michel

Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) 58 tour eiFFeL - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire

Le serGent reCruteur See page 62

ArpeGe - ContemporArY (€€€€€). Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. Metro: Varenne juLes Verne - hAute Cuisine (€€€€). This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim L’Ami jeAn - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg

LA tour D’ArGent - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€€€). A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité

L’AteLier De joeL robuChon - bistro (€€€). The lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon, serving very expensive small starters and such dishes as chicken “cannelloni” with foie gras and morel mushrooms. No reservations, and sometimes a long wait outside. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. Mº Rue du Bac

LA truFFière - southwestern FrenCh (€€€). Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th-century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge

Le bistrot Du 7e - bistro (€). A pleasant bistrot with a terrace serving traditional French cuisine at reasonable prices. Specialties include lobster terrine and duck breast, dinner is by candlelight. Daily L&D. 56 blvd de La Tour-Maubourg (7th), 01.45.51.93.08. Mº La Tour Maubourg

Le montpArnAsse 1900 - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue/Vavin

L’AteLier De joeL robuChon See this page

Le CAFé De L’ALmA - ContemporArY (€€). Ensconced on the very Parisian Avenue Rapp this is a chic and convivial spot for a meal or a drink on the serene outdoor terrace. The menu features traditional and healthy French fare as well as light and simple dishes from Spain, Italy and the Asian continent. Daily, B, L, D, service until midnight. 5 ave Rapp (7th), 01.45.51.56.74. Mº Alma-Marceau

Au Coin Des Gourmets See page 62

Aux LYonnAis See page 62

Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above. w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m   63

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Les ombres - ContemporArY (€€€€). The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau

Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 FAubourG - brAsserie (€€€). An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. Delicious offerings include a rotisserie-roasted chicken and for dessert a millefeuille with salty caramel sauce. 7/7, L & D. 114 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil 39V - ContemporArY (€€€). This glamorous onestar restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Try the delicious white wine from the Greek island of Tinos. Valet parking in the evening. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V ApiCius - ContemporArY (€€€€). The two-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of (very expensive) modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº St-Philippe-du-Roule bAteAux-mouChes - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). Savour homemade duck foie gras with cocoa and ginger to start then try the turbot with vegetable tagliatelle from the Excellence dinner menu. Vegetarian dishes are available, too. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm, Sat, Sun and public holidays for lunch at 1pm. Passengers must arrive prior to departure times. Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau Chez AnDré - bistro (€€). Superb, authentic bistro cuisine just steps away from the Champs-Elysées. Enjoy solid traditional French food highlighting regional meats of France and the freshest of fish in a cosy setting. Daily, continuous service L&D. 12 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.47.20.59.57. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt epiCure - Gourmet (€€€€€). The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil FAuChon Le CAFé - Gourmet (€€). This temple to gastronomy is open all day and is a cosy yet sleek restaurant featuring fine and varied fare from foie gras to vanilla millefeuilles. Offering a great view of Place de la Madeleine. Mon-Sat 9am-midnight, B, L & D. Closed Sun. 30 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.70.39.38.39. Mº Madeleine Le 68 pAr GuY mArtin - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€). Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V/Franklin D. Roosevelt L’Astor - Gourmet (€€€). Chef Nicolas Clavier’s original and creative dishes include a foie gras and smoked eel delight or seabass in ceviche for starters followed by a snacked cod fish fillet or a Black Angus rib-steak Rossini as a main. MonFri L&D. 11 rue d’Astorg (8th), 01.53.05.05.20. Mº St-Augustin Le Cinq - Gourmet (€€€€€). Chef Eric Briffard offers wonderful dishes like purple sea urchin in creamy

Le CAFé pouChkine See this page fennel broth and milk-fed lamb with Espelette pepper. Superbly aged cheeses and delectable desserts, like the Peruvian chocolate stuffed tart, follow. Serious wine list, and fantastic flowers by American florist Jeff Leatham. Daily L&D. Four Seasons Hôtel George V, 31 ave George V (8th), 01.49.52.70.00. Mº George V LA tAbLe Du LAnCAster - Fusion (€€€€). This delightful one-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Dishes can include herb-roasted saddle of lamb for a starter followed by sole with chives. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat-Sun D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V Le piChet De pAris - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). This quintessential Parisian eating establishment serves classic French fare in a warm setting. Specialities include superb seafood, perfectly prepared fish dishes like fresh cod with olive oil and basil and rack of lamb. Homemade pastries are featured on the dessert menu. Mon-Fri, L&D, Sat, D only. 68 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.43.59.50.34. Mº George V Le sAFrAn - Gourmet (€€€). Fine French gastronomy and international cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. The menu revolves around the seasons. The piano is played on Saturday evenings and Sunday brunch comes complete with free entertainment for children. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles mAison bLAnChe - ContemporArY (€€€€). Chef Hervé Nepple serves cuisine for the senses, inventive, savoury and refined fare. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau rAtn - inDiAn (€€€). Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in the Indian Moghol gastronomy and invites you to discover the fine Moghol specialties in tandoori and curries. A place where you can experience India for it’s traditions and culinary art. Recommended by Gault Millau and Pudlo. Open daily L&D. 9 rue de la Trémoille (8th), 01.40.70.01.09. Mº George V sAntoor - inDiAn (€). Just off the Champs-Elysées, a restaurant specializing in traditional Indian food including tandoori and curries. Mon-Sat L&D, Sun D only. 30 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.42.56.33.18. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt zen GArDen - Chinese (€€). The interior is designed to resemble a Chinese pagoda with an eight-metre high tower and 30 Buddhas, a plethora of hanging plants, numerous water fountains, wind chimes and porcelain vases. The relaxing atmosphere is perfect for savouring gastronomic Chinese cuisine. Daily L&D. 15 rue de Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.23.82.82. M° George V

Around oPérA GArnier & PiGALLe (9th, 10th,18th) bouiLLon ChArtier - CLAssiC FrenCh (€). The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hardboiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards CAFé De LA pAix - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). This classic Parisian institution with its decor of painted ceiling, pillars and murals is an elegant place to watch the world go by over coffee, light meals or drinks from its terraces. Fine fare is featured in the restaurant. On Sundays enjoy one of the biggest buffet brunches in Paris with jazz and a special space for children, available from noon to 3:30pm. Daily B, L & D. 5 place de l’Opéra (9th), 01.40.07.36.36. Mº Opéra Le CAFé pouChkine - CAFé (€). This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful décor. Excellent hot chocolate and authentic Russian beverages are all on the agenda. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin GioiA miA - itALiAn (€€). This delightful family-run Italian eatery serves up specialties of the Puglia in a relaxed atmosphere. Spinach ricotta raviolis with an infusion of sage and butter and homemade steak tartare are among the fine finds on the menu along with one of Charles de Gaulle’s favourite wines, Capo di Stato. Mon-Fri L&D. 61 rue de Provence (9th), 01.45.26.61.30. Mº Chaussée d’Antin-Lafayette Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€). Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L & D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra L’operA restAurAnt - ContemporArY (€€€). Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood. Young chef Yann Tanneau serves traditional dishes with a twist and changes his menu regularly though keeping the house dessert, l’Opera. Daily B, L & D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, lunch & dinner only. 64  W H E R E Pa r i s I F E B R UAR Y 2014

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Wepler - brAsserie Brasserie (€). Superb seafood platters, wepLer French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are are just just some some of of the the classic classic delights delights at at this this pastries Parisian landmark landmark nestled nestled near near Montmartre Montmartre and and Parisian Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy

Around BAstille (11th, 12th) Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) BlUe elepHaNT - THai (€€€). Authentic Thai cuisine bLue - thAi (€€€). Authentic cuisine in a eLephAnt setting of lush plants, orchids and Thai a waterfall. in a setting of lush plants, spices, orchidsfruits and aand waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, other Weekly arrivals ofBangkok. herbs, spices, fruits goods direct from The team ofand Thaiother chefs goods direct from Bangkok. of Thai prepares jumbo shrimp soupThe withteam lemon grasschefs and lamb Massamam among other specialties. 7/7and L& prepares jumbo shrimp soup with lemon grass th ), D, SunMassamam brunch & D.among 43-45 rue despecialties. la Roquette7/7 (11L& lamb other 01.47.00.42.00. Bastille D, Sun brunch &Mº D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille sepTime - ClassiC FreNCH (€€€). Traditional French fare featuring inventive market-based septime - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). Traditional cuisine from talented inventive Bertrand Grébaut is on the French farethe featuring market-based agendafrom here.the Enjoy selective produce and products cuisine talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the like the Banka troutselective from theproduce Basqueand country with agenda here. Enjoy products lentils coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. like theand Banka trout from the Basque countryTueswith th ), Fri L, D, D only.in80 rue deatmosphere. Charonne (11 lentils andMon coriander a relaxed Tues01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne th Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11 ), l’epiCerie saiNT-saBiN 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne- soUTHWesTerN FreNCH (€€). You can enjoy savoury specialities L’epiCerie sAint-sAbin - southwestern from the southwest of France in this cosy restaurant FrenCh (€€). You can enjoy savoury specialities in the Bastille neighbourhood. Continuous service from the southwest of France in this10am-9pm, cosy restaurant Tues, Wed 10am-8pm, Thurs Fri in the Bastille Sat neighbourhood. Continuous service 10am-10pm, 10am-9pm, Sun 10am-2pm. 13 Tues, Wed 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-9pm, Fri Mº Bastille/ rue Saint-Sabin (11th), 09.67.29.89.33. 10am-10pm, Breguet SabinSat 10am-9pm, Sun 10am-2pm. 13 rue Saint-Sabin (11th), 09.67.29.89.33. Mº Bastille/ les GraNdes marCHes - Brasserie (€€). A new Breguet Sabin ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar Les - brAsserie (€€). A new of GrAnDes the Place demArChes la Bastille. The establishment serves ownership and aFrench new décor to this pillar up traditional farehave and come superb seafood of the Place la Bastille. The establishment serves platters. Tuckdeinto a tasty French onion soup or foie up traditional Frenchbyfare seafood gras to start, followed codand fillet superb in a lemon butter sauce or aTuck prime cut beef. Dailyonion B, L&D. 6 place de platters. into a of tasty French soup or foie th ), 01.43.42.90.32. la Bastille (12followed gras to start, by cod filletMº in Bastille a lemon butter or a prime of beef. Daily B, L&D. 6(€€€). place de lesauce TraiN BleUcut - ClassiC FreNCH A ), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille la Bastille (12thmirrored magnificent, Belle Epoque restaurant in Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French Lethe trAin bLeu - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). A fare includingmirrored lobster Belle salad Epoque with artichokes, sole magnificent, restaurant in meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French th Lyon,including Place Louis Armand fare lobster salad(12 with), 01.43.43.09.06. artichokes, sole Mº Gare de Lyon meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Around MontpArnAsse MºthGare de th Lyonth

(13 , 14 , 15 ) Around MontPArnAsse le Bar a HUÎTres - seaFood (€€€). This is the th to go place for th fabulous seafood platters, finely (13 , 14th, 15 )

prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and selections of oysters in the Lemost bAreclectic A huÎtres - seAFooD (€€€). ThisFrench is the capital. dishes include Frenchfinely sea place toMain go forcourse fabulous seafood platters, bass, lobster from andone filetofofthe beef. prepared fresh fish Brittany dishes and bestDaily, and noon-midnight. 112 blvd (14th), most eclectic selections ofMontparnasse oysters in the French 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin capital. Main course dishes include French sea

lebass, Ciellobster de paris - GoUrmeT (€€€). Discover Paris from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, th from the 56th floor112 of the Montparnasse tower.(14 With ), noon-midnight. blvd Montparnasse a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin offerings or try the delicious seafood. Alternatively, Leopt CieL pAris - Gourmet (€€€). Discover Paris forDe a glass of bubbly or a champagne cocktail in from 56th floor Bar. of the Montparnasse With their the Champagne Daily L&D. 33 avetower. du Maine a(15 breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras th ), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse offerings or try the delicious seafood. Alternatively, leopt GasTroQUeT ClassiC FreNCH (€€€). This for a glass of bubbly or a champagne cocktail in cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious their Champagne Bar. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine traditional French cuisine. You can sample some (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles SaintLeJacques. GAstroquet - CLAssiC FrenCh (€€€). This Main courses include sautéed turbot cosyveal comfortable restaurant serves up delicious and liver in a candied lemon sauce. The iced traditional French cuisine. can sampledessert some mousse whiskey and BaileysYou is an original th briny oysters for starters or arue salad of coquilles (15 Saint), choice. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 Desnouettes 01.48.28.60.91. Convention/Porte de Versailles Jacques. Main Mº courses include sautéed turbot

leand QUiNzieme One-star star iced chef veal liver in- FUsioN a candied(€€€). lemon sauce. The Cyril Lignac’s restaurant servesisdeliciously mousse whiskey and Baileys an originalprepared dessert classics accompanied by heirloom vegetables. choice.often Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), Starters includeMº crayfish ravioli in cabbage broth 01.48.28.60.91. Convention/Porte de Versailles followed, for example, by savoury sea scallops Le quinzieme - Fusion (€€€). One-star star chef served with enticing Jerusalem artichokes. Tues-Fri Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves deliciously prepared L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy, (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. classics Mº Javeloften accompanied by heirloom vegetables. Starters include crayfish ravioli in cabbage broth followed, for example, by savoury sea scallops trocAdéro & Jerusalem porte artichokes. MAillot served with enticing Tues-Fri th 17thD.) 14 rue Cauchy, (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. (16 L&D,, Sat Mº Javel aU peTiT ViCTor HUGo - ClassiC FreNCH (€€€). This convivial and refined restaurant is located in one of the capital’s most neighbourhoods. troCAdéro &elegant Porte MAiLLot The th market fresh, (16 , 17th) based cuisine features classical French cooking. Starters can include foie gras or marinated Au petitwhile ViCtor - CLAssiC (€€€). herring solehuGo and rich veal stewFrenCh are among the mainconvivial courses.and Daily L&D,restaurant Sun L only.is143 ave Victor This refined located in one th ), 01.45.53.02.68. Victor Hugo The Hugo of the (16 capital’s most elegant Mº neighbourhoods. fresh,- market based cuisine features classical French BoN FUsioN (€€€). Asian inspiration and cooking. Starters can include foie gras or restaurant marinated international influences abound in this herring while sole and richand veal stew are among the styled like a private home decorated by Philippe main courses. Dailyvegetables, L&D, Sun L only. 143selection ave Victor Starck. Enjoy spicy a wide of 01.45.53.02.68. Mº Victor Hugo (16ath),Dim rolls, or Sum for starters then Hugo move onto black- cod or sole(€€€). tempura. Stupendous spareand ribs bon Fusion Asian inspiration are among theinfluences meat dishes. Daily L&D. rue de la international abound in this25 restaurant th ), 01.40.72.70.00. Mº La Muette Pompelike (16a private styled home and decorated by Philippe CrisTal room BaCCaraT - moderN ClassiC Starck. Enjoy spicy vegetables, a wide selection of (€€€).orAarestaurant palatial headquarters rolls, Dim Sum in forthe starters then move onto of thecod crystal manufacturer, serving richspare modern black or sole tempura. Stupendous ribs cuisine: lobster thermidor, dessert with cocoa, are among the meat dishes. Daily ravioli L&D. 25 rue de la parmesan and raisins. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations th Pompe (16 ), 01.40.72.70.00. Mº La Muette only. 11 pl des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. CristAL room bACCArAt - moDern CLAssiC Mº Boissière (€€€). A restaurant in the palatial headquarters JamiN - ClassiC FreNCH (€€€). The legendary of the crystal manufacturer, serving rich modern Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving cuisine: lobster thermidor, dessert ravioli with cocoa, good food in warm surroundings complemented by parmesan and raisins. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations welcoming service. Chef David Legrand prepares a only. 11 pl des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. market-oriented menu. Highlights include crispy Mº Boissière prawns with sesame vinaigrette and perfectly

BoN See this page bon

L’Ambroisie See page 62 l’amBroisie

jAmin - CLAssiC (€€€). The legendary roasted free-rangeFrenCh chicken with mashed potatoes. Mon-Frirestaurant L&D, Sat,isDenjoying only. 32arue de Longchamp Parisian renaissance, serving 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Iéna complemented by (16th), food good in warm surroundings welcomingdaB service. Chef David Legrand prepares l’aUBerGe - ClassiC FreNCH (€€€). Amplea market-oriented menu. Highlightssalmon includedrapes crispy leather wall seats, bay windows, prawns sesame vinaigrette and perfectly make forwith a most comfortable dining experience. roasted withBurgundy mashed potatoes. Start off free-range with some chicken snails from or a crab Mon-Fri L&D,salad Sat, D only. 32 with rue de Longchamp and endive seasoned curry followed ), 01.45.53.00.07. Iéna and spices. Daily (16 by ththe duck breast inMºhoney L&D. 161 ave Malakoff FrenCh (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. L’AuberGe DAbde - CLAssiC (€€€). Ample Mº Portewall Maillot leather seats, bay windows, salmon drapes

lemake GraNd saiNT FerdiNaNd - BisTro for aBisTro most comfortable dining experience. (€€). off Thiswith family-style bistro in an allStart some snails fromspecialises Burgundy or a crab inclusive menu with aperitif, starter, mainfollowed course, and endive salad seasoned with curry dessert, coffeebreast and bottle of wine forspices. two. Oysters, by the duck in honey and Daily th foie and duckling Challans are all ), 01.45.00.32.22. L&D.gras, 161wild avesole de Malakoff (16from th on the agenda. Mº Porte MaillotDaily L & D. 275 blvd Pereire (17 ) , 01.45.74.33.32. M° Porte Maillot monsieur bLeu - ContemporArY (€€). This moNsieUr BleU excellent - CoNTemporary (€€). This restaurant serves French contemporary restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Well-prepared fare as well as international dishes. Well-prepared French dishes include steak tartare, frogs’ legs with French dishes include steak tartare, frogs’ legs with garlic and parsley and calf’s liver flavoured with garlic and parsley and calf’s liver flavoured with pomegranate pomegranate juice. juice. Tucked Tucked inside inside the the Palais Palais de de Tokyo Tokyo its its terrace terrace has has splendid splendid views views of of the the Eiffel Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave Tower. Daily, continuousthfrom 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du 01.47.20.90.47. M° M° Iéna Iéna du President President Wilson Wilson (16 (16th),), 01.47.20.90.47. shAnG sHaNG pALACe palaCe -- Chinese CHiNese (€€€€). (€€€€). This This one-star one-star restaurant restaurant in in the the Shangri-La Shangri-La hotel hotel serves serves authentic authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna

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Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above. w w w.whe re t r ave l e r. c o m   65

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W H E R E PA R I S

ENTERTAINMENT

L’ASSAGGIO BAR In the warm and chic ambiance of the L’Assaggio Bar enjoy a glass of champagne or a traditional Italian aperitif like the sweet Bellini or the Italian Gipsy with Prosecco, orange juice and Aperol. The discrete bar with cosy alcove-like bench seats is next door to the iconic Chanel boutique and Coco Chanel’s apartment, making it an ideal address for a nice relaxing drink after a day of shopping. The bar is open daily from midday to midnight. Castille Paris Hotel, 33 rue Cambon (1st), 01 44 58 44 58

LE PERCHOIR PHOTO © AUDE BOISSAYE STUDIO CUI CUI

BY SA N D R A ISK A N D ER

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[ E N T E R TA I N M E N T ]

PERCHED ON PARIS It’s the newest speakeasy on the block and it is arguably the best-hidden one. Found in a small street in the bustling and emerging 11th arrondissement is Le Perchoir, a rooftop bar offering a stunning view of the city from where you can enjoy a glass of wine while admiring the Sacré-Coeur in the distance. The relaxed atmosphere attracts a young hipster crowd as well as visitors looking to see the new rugged vibe that is quickly sweeping through the French capital at the moment. 14 rue Crespin du Gast (11th), 01 48 06 18 48 The bar is open daily from 4pm with no reservations required.

CLASSICAL CONCERTS Toulouse under the direction of Tugan Sokhiev. 10-85€. Feb 11 at 8pm Gautier Capuçon – Frank Braley, the cellist and pianist perform Beethoven, Schubert, Debussy and Britten. 10-45€. Feb 14 at 4pm & Feb 17-18 at 8pm Mariinsky Theatre Orchestra, under the direction of Valery Gergiev performs Shostakovich. 10-85€. Feb 19 at 8pm Orchestre de Paris, with James Gaffigan conducting performs Weill, Korngold and Prokofiev. 10-60€. For full programme and on-line ticket purchases visit www.sallepleyel.fr. 252 rue du Fbg St-Honoré (8th) 01.42.56.13.13. M° Ternes

Théâtre des Champs-Elysées EGLISE DE LA MADELEINE Feb 22 at 8:30pm Mozart, Requiem, with orchestra and soloists under the direction of Till Aly. 20-40€. Tickets at the church the day of the concert or bookings at www.fnac.com or www.concerts-sveto.com. Place de la Madeleine (8th), Reservations at: 01.42.64.83.16. M° Madeleine EGLISE SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRES Feb 14 at 8:30pm Concert de St. Valentin, Vivaldi, Schubert, Lully, with orchestra and soloists under

the direction of André Rebacz. 30€. Tickets at the church the day of the concert or bookings at www.fnac.com or www.concerts-sveto.com. 3 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés (6th), 01.43.14.08.10. M° St-Germain-des-Prés SALLE PLEYEL Feb 2 at 4pm & 8pm Wayang Wong, Le Ramayana balinais, ritual theatre from Bali performed by a troupe of actors, singers and musicians. 25-35€. Feb 5 at 8pm Boris Godunov, concert version performed by Orchestre National du Capitole de

THEATRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSEES Feb 7 at 8pm Bertrand Chamayou, the pianist performs Schubert. 5-55€. Feb 9 at 11am David Grimal – Georges Pludermacher, the violinist and pianist perform Beethoven, Ravel and Bartok. 25€. Feb 10 at 7:30pm Theodora, Handel’s 3-act oratorio performed in its concert version with the English Concert Choir of Trinity Wall Street. 5-85€. Feb 11 & 13 at 8pm Gala Monteverdi, leading opera singers perform the composer’s works. 5-125€. Feb 12 at 8pm Fazil Say, the pianist under the direction of Sir Roger Norrington performs Schumann, Saint-Saëns and Bach-Busoni. 5-55€. Feb 25 at 8pm Orchestre de Chambre de Paris, under the direction of Thomas Zehetmair (also on the violin) performs Schumann and Manoury. 5-55€. For full programme visit www.theatrechampselysees.fr. 15 ave Montaigne (8th). For tickets and reservations call 01.49.52.50.50. M° Alma-Marceau

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BATH BAR Through to the 12th of February, the Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe Hotel welcomes the Bath Bar. Luxury bathtub brand Aquamass Design will be showcasing their new collection at the hotel, and to celebrate the launch of the line, visitors to the hotel bar as well as interior design amateurs are invited to plunge into one of the new tubs while enjoying a cool cocktail. Six tubs will be installed in the bar and the hotel’s terrace, making it a novel way to enjoy a drink. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01 55 37 55 37

CAVEAU DE LA HUCHETTE This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this location in the Middle Ages. Shows change regularly, check website for details. Sun-Thurs, 12€, Fri, Sat, holiday eves, 14€, drinks, 5-8€. www.caveaudelahuchette.fr. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. Mº St-Michel DUC DES LOMBARDS One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The decor is completely modern but the inspiration comes from the past as Elliot Barnes based his designs on the rarely played Duke Ellington song, Black Brown Beige. The Duc also boasts one of the best soundsystems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazzman jams make this the address for Jazz. An all-natural menu is also served continuously. Feb 1 at 8pm & 10pm Eric Legnini Trio Feat. Hugh Coltman. 35€. For full

JAZZ CLUBS

Jazz Club Etoile programme and reservations www.ducdeslombards.com. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. Mº Chatêlet JAZZ CLUB ETOILE A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton himself. In addition to a rich program beginning every night at 10pm, new talents are on the bill every Monday evening, and on Sundays enjoy a jazz-filled brunch. Sushi menu from 5:30pm-10pm, interior courtyard garden and fabulous cocktails. Apéro Jazz cocktail time Tuesday nights from 7:30pm to 10:30pm features a pianist and vocalist. Check website for complete programme www.jazzclub-paris.com.

81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. Mº Porte Maillot NEW MORNING The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... And it was Chet Baker’s favourite stage in Paris, and his last. Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8pm, so come early. Feb 6 at 9pm Jeff Ballard. 25€. Feb 14 at 8:30pm Mint Condition. 25€. Feb 24 at 7:30pm Spin Doctors. 22.90€. Shows change nightly, check website for complete programme. www.newmorning.com. 7 & 9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. Mº Château d’Eau

BATH BAR PHOTO © LOLL WILLEMS; STOMP PHOTO © DR

CAFE UNIVERSEL One of the up and coming jazz clubs in Paris located near the Latin Quarter. A welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. Free concerts are held at 9pm. For full programme go to www.myspace.com/cafeuniversel. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal

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[ E N T E R TA I N M E N T ] BOBINO Fabulous acoustics in this landmark music hall in the heart of Montparnasse. Through Feb 15 at 7pm Voca People, the unique a capella show of eight singers. 24-53€. For reservations and full schedule visit www.bobino.fr. 14 rue de la Gaité (14th), 01.43.27.24.24. M° Gaité

ROCK, POP, HIP HOP

CASINO DE PARIS Feb 1, 4, 5, 6 at 8pm, Feb 1 at 4pm & Feb 2 at 1pm Stomp. 39-79€. Full programme and tickets www.casinodeparis.fr. Or tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com. 16 rue de Clichy (9th), 08.92.69.89.26. M° Liège

1902, after a devastating fire, it was a favourite haunt of Jacques Brel who wrote some of his lyrics there. Feb 20 at 8pm Bootsy Collins. 35-37€. For tickets and reservations visit www.fnac.com. 80 blvd Rochechouart (18th), 01.44.92.78.03. M° Anvers

THEATRE LE TRIANON One of the capital’s mythical venues. Rebuilt in

ZENITH (LE) Launched over 25 years ago, this theatre has

photos : Jacques MOATTI / Lunxun CHEN

OLYMPIA (L’) The legendary music hall of Bruno Coquatrix. Feb 2 at 5:30pm The Definitive Rat Pack, Las Vegas show performing the songs sung by the original Rat Pack. 51.50-90€. Feb 12 at 8pm Birdy. 38.5049.50€. Feb 13 at 8pm Jamie Cullum. 44-52.80€. Feb 15 at 8:30pm Max Zita & Gospel Voices. 27.50-71.50€. For full programme see www.olympiahall.com. 28 blvd des Capucines (9th), 08.92.68.33.68. M° Opéra; Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com, 08 92 39 04 90. M° Opéra

LE

Stomp become a mythical venue for fine music. Feb 4 at 8pm The Australian Pink Floyd Show. 45.50-67.50€. Feb 17, 18 at 8pm 30 Seconds to Mars. 39.50-45€. Feb 22 at 8pm Motorhead. 49.90-60.90€. Full schedule and programme at www.zenith-paris. com. Tickets at FNAC: www.fnac.com 08.92.68.36.22 Parc de la Villette, 211 ave Jean Jaurès (19th). M° Porte de Pantin

BALLET DE

SHANGHAI FROM MARCH 13TH TO 20TH AT THE PALAIS DES SPORTS OF PARIS PORTE DE VERSAILLES

more info on

balletdeshanghai.valprod.fr

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W H E R E PA R I S [ E N T E R TA I N M E N T ]

OPERA & BALLET

Château de Versailles

CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES Feb 13 at 8pm Les Fêtes de l’Hymen et de l’Amour, Jean-Philippe Rameau’s little known masterpiece, a ballet-opera based on Egyptian mythology. 45-140€. For full programme and reservations visit www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr. Ave Rockefeller, 01.30.83.78.89. RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche OPERA COMIQUE Built in 1783 on the grounds of the property of the Duke of Choiseul, just off the Boulevard des Italiens, this gorgeous theatre was decorated by the most famous artists of La Belle Epoque: Gervex, Merson, Flameng, Maignan and Constant. Feb 17, 19, 21, 25 at 8pm & Feb 23 at 3pm Pelléas et Mélisande, Debussy’s 5-act opera with a love triangle for a plot and set in a fairytale past. 6-120€. For tickets, reservations and full programme www.opera-comique.com. Place Boieldieu (2nd), 08.25.01.01.23. M° Richelieu-Drouot

OPERA GARNIER Feb 5, 7, 9, 12 at 7:30pm & Feb 2 at 2:30pm Alcina, Handel’s 3-act opera centred on a bewitching woman. 10-185€. Feb 3, 4, 8, 10, 11, 24, 25, 26, 28 at 7:30pm & Feb 16, 23 at 2:30pm Eugene Onegin, John Cranko’ 3-act ballet based on the novel in verse by Pushkin and set to music by Tchaikovsky. Feb 21, 27 at 7:30pm, Feb 22 at 8pm & 2:30pm Birgit Cullberg & Agnes de Mille, works choreographed by these two pioneers of 20th century dance 10-92€. For additional information and reservations visit www.operadeparis.fr. Palais Garnier, Place de l’Opéra (9th), 08.92.89.90.90. M° Opéra PALAIS DES CONGRÈS Feb 4, 5 at 8pm & Feb 9 at 5:30pm Swan Lake, performed by the celebrated ballerina Irina Kolesnikova and the Saint Petersburg Ballet Theatre. 42-81€. Feb 6 at 8pm Don Quichotte, performed by the celebrated ballerina Irina Kolesnikova and the Saint Petersburg Ballet Theatre. 42-81€. Feb 7, 8 at 8pm La Bayadère, performed by the celebrated ballerina Irina Kolesnikova and the Saint Petersburg Ballet Theatre. 42-81€. Feb 14, 15, 22 at 8:30pm, Feb 16 at 2pm & 6pm, Feb 23 at 4pm Romeo and Juliette, performed by the Moscow Ballet Theatre. 36-72€. Tickets at FNAC www.fnac.com. Porte Maillot (17th), 08.92.68.36.22. Or reservations at the Palais des Congrès 08.92.05.00.50. M° Porte Maillot

THEATRE DES CHAMPS-ELYSEES Feb 1 at 8pm & Feb 2 at 4pm Romeo and Juliette, performed by the Saint-Petersburg Ballet Theatre with ballerina Irina Kolesnikova. 15-89€. Tickets and reservations at www.theatrechampselysees.fr. 15 ave Montaigne (8th). Tickets and reservations call 01.49.52.50.50. M° Alma-Marceau

DANCE I SHOWS PALAIS DES CONGRÈS Feb 2 at 5pm Irish Celtic, music, song and a lot of dance recounting the story of Paddy and staged in a pub, the Irish Celtic Pub. 37-73€. Tickets at FNAC www.fnac.com. Porte Maillot (17th), 08.92.68.36.22. Or reservations at the Palais des Congrès 08.92.05.00.50. M° Porte Maillot THEATRE NATIONAL DE CHAILLOT The doors to this theatre open an hour and a half before the show. Within, a bookstore, a bar and a restaurant. Feb 1 at 3:30pm Tel quel!, work choreographed by Thomas Lebrun geared for children. 20€, under 25 8€. Feb 11-14 at 8:30pm & Feb 13-14 at 2:30pm Bud Blumenthal Perfection, an intriguing blend of dance, 3D and new technologies. 33€. For full programme, reservations and tickets visit www.theatre-chaillot.fr. 1 place du Trocadéro (16th), 01.53.65.30.00. M° Trocadéro

CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES PHOTO © 2013 THINKSTOCK – ISTOCK

OPERA BASTILLE Feb 5, 12 at 7:30pm & Feb 2, 9 at 2:30pm Werther, Jules Massenet’s masterpiece in four acts and five tableaux. 5-180€. Feb 1, 4, 7, 10, 13, 19, 22, 25, 28 at 7:30pm & Feb 16 at 2:30pm La Fanciulla del West, Puccini’s 3-act opera set in the Far West replete with a saloon and gold miners. 5-180€. Feb 14, 17, 21, 24, 27 at 7:30pm Madame Butterfly, Puccini’s masterpiece set in early 20th century Japan. 5-180€. Full programme visit www.operadeparis.fr. 120 rue de Lyon (12th), 08.92.89.90.90. M° Bastille

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W H E R E PA R I S

BARS

LE BAR The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail. Redecorated with a voluptuous decor by designer Jacques Garcia. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. Mº St-Germain-des-Prés BAR 58 This brasserie bar in the Marriot Courtyard is a delightful place to stop for a drink. Head barman Christophe Pons mixes his infamous cocktail, The Garden of Eden, for two. 58 blvd Victor Hugo (Neuilly sur Seine), 01.55.63.64.56. Mº Porte Maillot BAR LE BAUDELAIRE This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails beneath a ceiling fresco evoking “The Flowers of Evil”, Charles Baudelaire’s masterpiece. The bar offers 50 different champagnes and 40 Cognacs. Daily from 5pm-1am. 6-8 Rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. Mº Madeleine BUDDHA BAR This trend-setting cocktail bar and restaurant attracts both fashionistas and curious tourists, with a giant golden Buddha presiding over the scene and service that’s cooler-than-thou. 8 rue Boissy d’Anglas (8th), 01.53.05.90.00. Mº Concorde LA CLOSERIE DES LILAS The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. Enjoy the piano player, the best Daiquiri in Paris and being yourself. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. Mº Vavin or RER Port-Royal

LE LUCIEN BAR

Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Lovely hors d’oeuvres accompany the drinks as you dream into the view over a secluded terrace. In the Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. Mº George V DOOBIES A trendy restaurant/bar where you have to ring the doorbell to get in. Tues-Sat from 7:30 pm; Fri & Sun from 12 pm. 2 rue Robert Estienne (8th), 01.53.76.10.76. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt

HARRY’S NEW YORK BAR This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and friendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. Mº Opéra

EXPERIMENTAL COCKTAIL BAR fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. Mº Sentier

HOTEL COSTES BAR This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching. The décor is sumptuous as are the cocktails and the very fine champagne list. 239 rue St-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00.

Special Valentine’s Day packages € 145/160 per person Available also on February 13 & 15 in addition to our regular offers

BOOK NOW! 01 47 23 32 32 www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 avenue George V - 75008 Paris

LE LUCIEN BAR PHOTO © FABRICE RAMBERT

Celebrate Love at Le Crazy!

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[ E N T E R TA I N M E N T ]

ADVERTORIAL

How to become Parisian in one hour? As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud, the very talented and handsome comedian, has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a

5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hardhitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a

pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to be Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves.

Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more.

EVERY Friday & Saturday @ 7pm - Sunday @ 6pm - Monday @ 8pm

100% IN ENGLISH Théâtre des Nouveautés 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grand Boulevards From 24€

It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier RESERVATION has put together a fail-proof RECOMMENDED  guideline of French etiquette +33 (0)6 98 57 45 98 that will leave you embracing or the oh la la factor. www.oliviergiraud.com

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W H E R E PA R I S

SILENCIO

This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Non-members are admitted after midnight. Members have access to films, concerts and other performances. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd) 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/Grands Boulevards

LE BARON You can club until dawn at this celebrated and celebrity filled night spot. Its cabaret-like ambiance – there’s live music- attracts a trendy, elite crowd. Look your best to get past the door. 6 ave Marceau (8th), 01.47.20.04.01. M° Alma-Marceau LE MONTANA This nightclub in the heart of the SaintGermain-des-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. Popular with the fashion crowd and rock stars, it is a perfect place for people watching, once you’re inside. 28 rue St Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés

LE PARIS PARIS This trendy nightclub features live concerts and a refurbished large bar, the Shots Bar, for enjoying shots. The club has a member’s only VIP lounge, La Chambre Rouge. TuesSat 11pm-6am. 5 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01.42.60.64.45. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre

VIP ROOM One of the most exclusive of the clubs currently on the Parisian nightlife scene. This chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal

RASPOUTINE This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne. The club’s décor, created by the celebrated Russian designer Erté, is listed on the inventory of historic monuments. 58 rue Bassano (8th) 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V

LE SHOWCASE Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby atmosphere. Look good and don’t miss breakfast. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau

SILENCIO PHOTO © ALEXANDRE GUIRKINGER/SILENCIO ART LIBRARY; MUGLER FOLLIES PHOTO © CHRISTIAN GAUTIER © MTML/MANFRED T.MUGLER

NIGHT CLUBS

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CABARETS

MUGLER FOLLIES This sexy review with original songs was put together by Manfred T. Mugler, the designer behind fashion label Thierry Mugler. Dancers, acrobats and singers are joined onstage with comedians, performers and models in a vibrant show that reinvents the traditional cabaret. The show is not recommended for children. Dinner and show catered by Fouquet’s starts at 7:30pm, from 156€. Show only with a glass of champagne starts at 8pm, from 89€. Show only starts at 8:45pm (doors open at 8:20), from 56€. www.muglerfollies.com. Le Comédia, 4 blvd de Strasbourg (10th), 01.42.38.22.22. M° Strasbourg-St-Denis

CRAZY HORSE A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm. The show and half bottle of champagne or 2 drinks: starting at €125. www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01.47.23.32.32. M° Alma-Marceau LIDO The current show, Bonheur, is a song-and-dance spectacular with 70 artists, 23 sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Show with half bottle of champagne at 9:30pm (105€) & 11:30 pm (95€). Mon-Sun: Dinner & show at 7:00 pm (160-300€). Sun & Tues: Lunch & show at 1pm (140€). www.lido.fr. 116 bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.56.10. M° George V

MOULIN ROUGE This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls, 1,000 costumes of feathers, rhinestones and sequins and spectacular staging. Dinner & show start at 7pm (180-210€); Show only starts at 9pm or 11pm for 109€ (with half bottle of champagne). www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01.53.09.82.82. M° Blanche PARADIS LATIN Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm (130-190€ for dinner & show or 90€ for show & half a bottle of champagne). www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01.43.25.28.28. M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu

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ME R ND . TO ORLY AIRPORT LA M UL ELS ULE LA SO O RT E A EV E HN PL.DE LA UX O N N Alexandre A R Charonne E CHAR S RÉUNION D The RER B, direction St-Rémy, connects with O Dumas A M D DE D U UVE E U E Pont R NE RU X Marie I E R Orlyval, an PLACE automatic train, at Antony. Orlyval RONNE RO RU TER AC EL E L Porte de E DE CHA Bastille 4e DRE R. D DE LA R . Montreuil S PORTE DE S TDE DE XAN DE DE A N Truns every R. 5-7 min, S ALE BASTILLE L A P 6 am-11 pm (8.70€). The RE U I L MONTREUIL OINE E CÉ V IL PE MONT Maraîchers D C R U E E S L LE RU RUE ST E MR U Opéra Y Z INS RER CHAN TIT . DE L Bastille Massy-Verrières connects English, French and Italian spoken I V C direction RON Buzenval R. A PE D 'AV RUE DELESCLUZE Rue des DU CER QU BL AI IS A I R. Boulets I E a shuttle bus that goes Ledru to Orly (6.45€). Or VD D'A N R with E HE NJ R U S R P U Rollin O E Avron CH AM EN Sully VO L 'I D GR AN DS LE Morland take Orlybus outside the Denfert-Rochereau B LV IL LT DE S TREU AI DU RU E EB Y MON ÉTH RE DE ULL RUE S UN Métro stop (14th), every 20 min 5:35 am-11 FA U B O U R E DE DE R. IGN É PLAINE G LA RUE UB NT SAINT D'A PO R. MO R NAY pm (7.20€). Air France buses leave from the E Faidherbe IN ANTO R. D MB. R L A S Chaligny É O C . R INE L PRINTEMPS L AG N Y SCH DE RU E ITUT Nation NATION RO Invalides (rue Esnault Pelterie, M° Invalides) the PL.DES ONDE PLACE DE ANTILLES QU Porte de ABE LA NATION RU Vincennes T O C Arc de Triomphe (1 ave Carnot, 17th, M° Etoile) D R Y A L O L A B . R E U D RS DI LE AV PORTE DE P. té DE R. AR D EN IA N DU Quai de e Curie OR B O UL EVReuilly-Diderot PA R R OT (rue UE and GareUEMontparnasse duCHAcommandant V IN C E NVINCENNES RE E D R. AI la Rapée VII ND AV RE NT NES EZ EN N V -V T TO A Gare Montparnasse) de OU ER Mouchotte, M° Gare DI DE RO ÛTE BE N every 20 S VI D T VO Lyon AR Gare CU RN HA LA ER A UC LE VA RD de Lyon R. R T E OU A AR B E Z É D AVE NU E N IT 5am-10:40pm from airport 6amRU NT . B E D PO RLminutes, Ménageries RG MO DE RU E SE R. ST SA I N T DE DU AU Picpus R. E T trip/ H 12€ one way, 20€ round AVE Jardin des D'11:40pm (Onboard: MA ND É High quality massage, CH UE OG ILL T Gare R U Montgallet AVE E C OU R T EL S G AL O Plantes LL d’Austerlitz I N E V. ON N D MB GA HUGO Online: 11€ oneRUway, 18€ round VA NT R Atrip). AU ande E directly in your hotel room. MO ME E R. MOUSSET D RE E TER N A S E UE R L PORTE DE uée SN RU ROBERT RU NT UL R. E DE P O G Awww.aeroportsdeparis.fr ST-MANDÉ IL LY FON A aris RNO E L UIL BUF DE RUE DAGO

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W H E R E PA R I S [ N A V I G AT E ]

CLICK & GO

Discover Paris and all it has to offer with this easy to use complete guide to the city. Maps and photographs make navigating a joy while itineraries, a near me now function and theme tours help you plan your day. Practical and descriptive information for enjoying the city’s museums, attractions, restaurants and shops of all kinds are just a click away. Free on AppStore

VISIT PARIS BY METRO – RATP This is the official application of the RATP, the city’s public transportation system. The application is conceived for visitors who wish to discover Paris by metro. It offers a number of services to find the most beautiful sites in the city and surroundings as well as practical information for major sites. Metro, RER and tramway maps are on hand along with a function to visualise the streets of Paris. Free on AppStore & Android Market

MY AIRPORT – ADP This is the official application of the Aéroports de Paris, the authority that manages the airports around Paris. It gives you information in real time for the Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports. Timetables, registration areas and departure gates for flights as well as flight status and flashes for exceptional events are offered by the application. Airport services, shopping and orientation maps of the airports are also on hand. Free on AppStore & Android Market

CHIC OUTLET SHOPPING This handy application enables you to browse the nine Chic Outlet Shopping Villages in Europe, view interactive maps that pinpoint your location once you are in the village and a convenient search function that lets you locate your favourite boutiques and find the latest offers. You can also plan your visit in advance no matter where you are and book online for Shopping Express, coach and chauffeur services. Free on AppStore & Android Market

MY MUSEUM LE LOUVRE This application is a fun way to visit the Louvre with Paulette who guides you with her little red arrow through the corridors and halls of the palatial museum. You can listen to her exclusive interviews with the Mona Lisa, the Venus de Milo and the Great Sphinx. The application enables you to discover the Italian Renaissance, the French school, Ancient Egypt and more. 1.79€ on AppStore

PARIS MONUMENT TRACKER This instructive application reveals the history of the monuments around you in an exhaustive manner guiding you through Paris and its 370 monuments. The application features interactive thematic tours, an astounding database of monuments, facades, statues, fountains, art works and cultural events. The application, which is regularly updated and enriched, operates without an Internet connection. And by purchasing it, you contribute to financing the restoration of Mont Saint Michel. 0.89€ on AppStore & free on Android Market

SMARTPHONES © SCANRAIL/ISTOCK/THINKSTOCK

WHERE NOW PARIS

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PARIS

AIRPORTS

12.50ORLY €17/ €17.50 CDG €21 CDG ORLY €

between

and

Direct

CDG

PARIS

airport

airports

uttle

between Paris and

airport

Sh

between Paris and

ORLY

www.lescarsairfrance.com Open to everyone • Everyday

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W h e r e pa r i s [ n a v i g at e ] Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?

Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.

Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.70€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 13.30€). This map includes the new tramway line.

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“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1day 9€, 2-day 14.70€, 3-day 20€, 5-day 28.90€). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.

While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.

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[THE VIEW FROM HERE]

My Paris

If one of our readers is only in Paris for 24 hours what one thing would you recommend they do? Visit the Musée d’Orsay and discover the rich collection of the impressionist period. Enjoy a 2-hour tour in a chauffeur-driven 2CV with 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie to take in the main sites of the city. Have tea and eat pastries at Ladurée’s rue Royale tea salon. Take a stroll through the Bon Marché, the most prestigious department store in Paris. Dine at Le Vaudeville brasserie to take in the atmosphere of a typical Parisian brasserie. And after dinner go on a cruise on the River Seine with Bateaux Parisiens to take in Paris at night.

Fine cuisine at Antoine

Xavier HARRAULT Head Concierge at Hôtel Pont Royal

For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? Benoît, to enjoy the most typical dishes of French traditional cuisine. Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? The most beautiful view in Paris certainly is from the Tour Montparnasse’s terrace, but you should also climb all the way up Notre Dame’s towers for a breathtaking view. It’s not always easy for our readers to find somewhere fun to head to at 2am, where

Le Bon Marché

would you recommend they party till dawn? Jane Club at 62 rue Mazarine located underneath the Alcazar restaurant. As the fashion capital, which areas do you think showcase the best fashions? Rue Saint-Honoré and the Saint-Germain-desPrés area. For a couple in love where would you recommend they go for a romantic dinner? Antoine at 10 avenue de New York in the 16th arrondissement for fine cuisine with a superb view of the Eiffel Tower. The view from Tour Montparnasse

MY PERFECT DAY 9am Buy a croissant at Pierre Hermé, as they are the best in Paris 12pm Lunch at Pierre Sang Boyer 3pm Walk through the small streets of St-Germain-des-Prés then teatime with friends at L’heure Gourmande located at 22 passage Dauphine (6th) 9pm Dinner at L’Alycastre, one of my favourite addresses in St-Germain at 2 rue Clément (6th)

Le Terminus Café

where

®

Your Guide to the World

TOUR MONTPARNASSE PHOTO © MONTPARNASSE 56

Go on a cruise with Bateaux Parisiens

Where recently sat with Head Concierge of Hôtel Pont Royal, Xavier Harrault, to pick his brain on where and what our readers should go and see while visiting the French capital

What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? I visited the Beaugrenelle shopping centre in the 15th arrondissement and it is magnificent. I also discovered both La Régalade Conservatoire and Septime restaurants as well as the Seine Avenue Company that is located on the quai Malaquais close to our hotel, which offers private cruises on board a superb Murano open boat.

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© Bal du Moulin Rouge 2014 - Moulin Rouge® - 1-1028499

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THE SHOW OF THE MOST FAMOUS CABARET IN THE WORLD !

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08/01/2014 15:04


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Where Paris - February 2014  
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