GUIDE TO LONDON ®
From Amaya to Chutney Mary, the restaurants that are transforming Indian food IN FULL FLOW How to enjoy the River Thames REIGN SUPREME Claire Foy and Matt Smith star on stage
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6 WHERE NOW Our guide to this month’s biggest events, from celebrating 50 years of Monty Python to the Last Night of the Proms.
20 SIGHTSEEING As the Totally Thames festival makes waves, here’s how to enjoy our river.
10 REIGNING SUPREME As stars of The Crown Claire Foy and Matt Smith reunite – this time on stage – we find out how you can enjoy royal hotspots. 14 THE FOOD REVOLUTION Taste your way around the capital’s most exciting Indian restaurants, from Amaya to Veeraswamy. 18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Get swept away with souvenirs that are inspired by the River Thames. 74 MY PERFECT DAY Mica Paris, who stars in Fame the Musical, shares her favourite places in the capital.
36 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Make your way to an exhibition on William Blake and enjoy the London Design Festival. 42 ENTERTAINMENT If you’re a fan of the classic 1980s film Big, you’ll love the new show Big the Musical. 52 SHOPPING Now everyone has the chance to visit London Fashion Week: for the first time, you can watch its stunning catwalk shows. 56 DINING Sit down to superior sushi and make the most of the last days of summer by eating on a restaurant terrace.
64 NIGHTLIFE Are you a fan of all that jazz? Then visit Ronnie Scott’s or Jack Solomons Club for live music. 68 SPAS & SALONS Whether you need a blow dry or celebrity cut, these hair salons will leave you looking and feeling fabulous. 70 ESSENTIALS An experienced hotel concierge shares his strangest requests as well as tips on how you can make the most of your time here. 72 MAP A useful map of central London.
See more of London at www.wheretraveler.com/london
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CHRIS JOHNSON I love to soak up the views at The Prospect of Whitby, London’s oldest riverside pub. Don’t let the resident ghosts who roam this 16th-century tavern put you off.
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NEIL SIMPSON It’s tiny, but The Grapes pub in Limehouse has a terrace that juts out over the Thames. It’s a peaceful spot – and I often see its owner Ian McKellen in there.
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Whenever September comes around, it always makes me think of new beginnings. In the UK it signals the start of the school year, while in the world of arts, culture and fashion, new theatre seasons, gallery exhibitions and fashion lines are announced. While London Fashion Week attracts people from across the world, the public could never attend − until now. Find out how you can visit one of the world’s most exclusive events and watch catwalk shows (p. 52). Since the Queen attended last year, who knows who you might end up spotting on the front row? The River Thames is one of the capital’s defining features. The river creates a friendly rivalry between the north and south, it has allowed the city to trade with the rest of the world and it’s been depicted in art by painters, from Canaletto to Monet. As the Totally Thames festival floats into town, here’s how to enjoy the London panorama you only get from the river (p. 20) and paintings you can take home (p. 18). Even though I grew up eating and cooking Indian food, I still love treating myself by visiting the capital’s Indian restaurants. This is, quite simply, because London serves the best Indian food outside of India − here’s where to get a taste (p. 14). As you are visiting during one of the most exciting months of the year, you are spoilt for choice. I can’t wait for Big the Musical (p. 42), William Blake at Tate Britain (p. 36) and It’s… Monty Python at 50 at the BFI (p. 8). How about you? Let us know on social media.
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Feel the force of Star Wars in concert, meet London’s other royal family (the Pearly Kings and Queens) and celebrate the legendary Monty Python
JAPAN MATSURI IN TRAFALGAR SQUARE
Celebrate Japanese culture in Trafalgar Square at this all-day event; this year’s theme is Future Generations. Enjoy traditional dancing, delicious food, browse stalls and play games for all the family. Learn more about Japanese culture, with displays of kimonos and manga art. The free event is supported by the Japanese Embassy and runs from 10am to 8pm. www.japanmatsuri.com
14-15 MUSE Muse is one of Britain’s greatest rock bands to watch live. The group SEP from Teignmouth in Devon has headlined Glastonbury twice and performed at Coachella in the Colorado Desert. Now, the Grammy and Brit Awardwinning trio is bringing its Simulation Theory world tour to The O2. Expect to hear hits from the band’s eighth album, including Something Human and The Dark Side, while being wowed by puppet skeletons and dancers on stage. www.theo2.co.uk
PUB IN THE PARK
Hosted by Rick Stein, James Martin and Monica Galetti, this Chiswick event brings together food, music and Michelin-starred chefs in a delicious combination that beats your typical pub garden. Discover pop-up restaurants from famous faces including Heston Blumenthal, José Pizarro and Jason Atherton and watch cooking demonstrations. You can also enjoy live music from acts including Clean Bandit, Sophie Ellis-Bextor, Stereo MCs, Soul II Soul, Scouting for Girls and Razorlight. www.pubintheparkuk.com 6 W H E R E LO N D O N I S E P T E M B E R 2019
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21-23 STAR WARS SEP IN CONCERT
Feel the force as the Royal Albert Hall presents Stars Wars in Concert: The Empire Strikes Back with a live orchestra. John Williams’ timeless original score is brought to life in spectacular fashion. Relive some of the most memorable moments in film history on the big screen, while creating your own memories to cherish as you listen to the orchestra in this sumptuous Victorian setting. The film includes subtitles and an interval. www.royalalberthall.com
Pearly Kings and Queens Harvest Festival 29 SEP
Head to Guildhall Yard, Gresham Street, for the harvest festival of the London Pearly Kings and Queens Society. This 19th-century tradition sees Pearly Kings and Queens dressed in suits adorned with shiny pearl buttons, parading through the streets to St Mary-le-Bow Church. Expect Morris dancers, Maypole dancing, marching bands and donkeys. www.pearlysociety.co.uk
LAST NIGHT OF THE PROMS
Enjoy some rousing pieces of classical music at the BBC Proms’ glorious finale which features patriotic favourites such as Jerusalem, Rule, Britannia! and the national anthem. Some of the most famous works from across the world will also be played, from Verdi to Bizet. Don’t worry if you can’t get your hands on tickets, because the evening is broadcast worldwide. If you still have a desire for live classical music, Proms in the Park takes place on the same night. www.bbc.co.uk www.wheretraveler.com 7
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of Louis Vuitton. www.pad-fairs.com
The Totally Thames festival begins today – enjoy a month of events on the river Eat and dance the night away to ABBA hits at Mamma Mia! The Party at The O2 Award-winning allegory The Fishermen starts today at Trafalgar Studios Music and dance extravaganza Heartbeat of Home begins at the Piccadilly Theatre Become a Master of the Universe at The Wolf of Wall Street Immersive Experience Relive the 1980s at Big the Musical, which opens today at the Dominion Theatre Watch Henrik Ibsen’s masterpiece, A Doll’s House, at Lyric Hammersmith Enjoy Michelin-starred food and live music at Pub in the Park at Chiswick House Take a wander around one of the Royal Parks and see the colours start to change The London Design Festival takes over the city: look out for events and showcases Dig out your leg warmers for Fame the Musical at The Peacock theatre Catch Cindy Sherman photos at the National Portrait Gallery, ending soon Enjoy prominent art, music and culture at Africa Utopia at the Southbank Centre Join the Last Night of the Proms concert in Hyde Park for a night of celebrations Film fanatics should head to the Royal National Hotel for the London Film Fair See the amazing accordionist Richard Galliano at Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club Take a tour of Chelsea FC’s ground to see its home and away dressing rooms See innovative new works at the Beazley Designs of the Year, at The Design Museum Immerse yourself in Mozart’s striking opera Don Giovanni at Royal Opera House See what happens when teenagers reach adulthood in the comedy play Groan Ups Head to the new Antony Gormley exhibition at the Royal Academy of Arts Fall in love with the cute pooches at the Chiswick House Dog Show Feel the drama of Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back in Concert at Royal Albert Hall Step into a gothic world at Red Palace, an immersive cabaret at The Vaults See the strength of Ant Middleton: Mind Over Muscle at the London Palladium Laugh with Stephen Mangan and Sue Johnston in The Man in the White Suit Head to the Underbelly stage to watch Marcel Lucont’s Cabaret Fantastique See NASA icons at the Natural History Museum’s exhibition about the moon Watch traditional Morris dancers at the Pearly Kings and Queens Harvest Festival Enjoy the contemporary FranceDance UK performances at Sadler’s Wells
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1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 IT’S… MONTY PYTHON AT 50 ALL As the world-famous comedy group Monty SEP Python celebrate the 50th anniversary of 10 Monty Python’s Flying Circus this September, the BFI on the 11 South Bank is hosting a month-long celebration of some of their most well-known work. Discover the influences 12 and roots that shaped the group: you’ll be able to see screenings of Flying Circus, as well as many of the works 13 involving members of the group pre- and post-Python, including TV shows such as Fawlty Towers and Do Not 14 Adjust Your Set. There will also be screenings of all of the famous films, from The Life of Brian to The Holy Grail. 15 www.bfi.org.uk 16 17 PAD London 30 SEP18 6 OCT Design Fair PAD Design Fair’s 19 annual visit to London brings with it an astounding display 20 of interior design that draws 21 inspiration from various 22 styles and regions and is a favourite among designers, 23 collectors and the public. 24 You can expect a seamless fusion of art, photography 25 and design influenced by ancient and modern cultures. 26 International galleries and 27 designers are taking part: look out for ceramics by 28 Adrian Sassoon and 29 jewellery from Lorenz 30 Bäumer, formerly
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★★★★★ SUNDAY TIMES
‘CONJURES THE IMPOSSIBLE! MAGICAL DOESN’T EVEN BEGIN TO DESCRIBE IT.’ ENTERTAINMENT WEEKLY
NOW BOOKING UNTIL JANUARY 2020 PALACE THEATRE, LONDON www.HarryPotterThePlay.com TM & © HPTP. Harry Potter
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A Royal As The Crown’s ’s Claire Foy and Matt Smith get set to perform together at The Old Vic, Millie Milliken looks back at how they became a regal couple and what to expect from their next venture
he king and queen of Netflix are back, but this time they won’t be on our screens. Claire Foy and Matt Smith may have stepped down from their thrones on the set of The Crown, but this October they will reunite in Lungs at The Old Vic, for undoubtedly one of this year’s most anticipated double acts. It will, by no means, be either star’s first foray into theatre, but it will be their first one together – not only on stage, but also since the curtain closed on series two of the hit Netflix show in 2017. If there was ever an occasion for fanfare and pageantry, this will be it.
HOLDING COURT Written by playwright Duncan Macmillan, whose critically acclaimed People, Places and Things recently set the West End and awards season alight, Lungs is set in 2011. It follows the story of W (Foy) and M (Smith), a couple who are thinking of having a child in a world where the likes of climate change and global unrest cause them to question their decision. Who would want to bring a child into this world? Lungs follows the relationship of the couple as they grapple with the ideas of hope, family, betrayal, pain and happenstance – plus some of our planet’s own biggest dilemmas.
REIGNING SUPREME It’s a far cry from the dramas experienced in The Crown. When the show made its debut in 2016, it was the most expensive TV show ever made (now it comes in at a close second to Game of Thrones), with
its intricate and painstakingly time-accurate costumes, attention to historic detail and stellar cast. Foy won an Emmy for her portrayal of the Queen, while Smith narrowly missed out on one for his charming turn as Philip. Based on a play itself (The Audience by Peter Morgan), The Crown begins in 1947 when Elizabeth Windsor weds Lieutenant Philip Mountbatten. Shortly after, the death of her father King George VI sees his eldest daughter (in place of his abdicated brother) ascend the throne aged 25. The first two series follow the newly-crowned HRH Queen Elizabeth II and Philip, Duke of Edinburgh through some of the royal family’s most important moments: from Edward, Duke of Windsor’s loyalty to Wallis Simpson and Princess Margaret’s clandestine relationship with Peter Townsend, to the birth of Prince Edward. This is all set against the backdrop of London from the 1940s to the 1960s. From the first sight of Buckingham Palace, we’re thrown into the world of the royals and what lies behind their protective walls. We see the marriage of Elizabeth and Philip in Westminster Abbey (as well as her coronation), the length of The Mall which acts as Buckingham Palace’s public driveway and Prime Minister Winston Churchill in Parliament (and in the bath at 10 Downing Street). It’s a heady mix
Matt Smith and Claire Foy
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‘Even today, Queen Elizabeth and her family make headlines’ of some of England’s most recognisable iconography, while the mysterious world of the royals is one that will never cease to intrigue people all over the world. Even today, Queen Elizabeth II (Britain’s longest-reigning monarch) and her family continue to make headlines, no more so than with the recent marriage of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle and the birth in May of their son, Archie.
When The Crown returns in November this year, it will be Oscar winner Olivia Colman stepping into the Queen’s Anello & Davide shoes, alongside Tobias Menzies as the
Duke of Edinburgh. Kicking off in 1964, it will follow the royal family through to 1976 in what promises to be a more hopeful, but no less drama-filled, portrayal of the royals. Although Foy and Smith may not be returning as one of England’s most famous
DESERVING HEIRS They may have been the understudies for the real thing, but these stunning film locations from The Crown are familiar and well worth a visit. LANCASTER HOUSE A mere stone’s throw away from Buckingham Palace, Lancaster House played its double for the majority of the palace’s interior scenes. The Grade I-listed building’s stately decor makes for a convincing doppelgänger. ELTHAM PALACE This Art Deco venue in south London acted as locations in The Crown. The most memorable appearance was as designer Norman Hartnell’s studio, when Elizabeth is presented with a parade of outfits for an upcoming foreign tour.
couples, their upcoming West End partnership will be a rare chance to experience that chemistry in the flesh. Lungs. From 14 Oct. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. www.oldvictheatre.com
City Livery Hall
GOLDSMITHS’ HALL Home to the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, this City Livery Hall appeared as an operating room in Buckingham Palace for the removal of one of King George’s lungs. GREENWICH NAVAL COLLEGE Steeped in royal history, the naval college was used to replicate Buckingham Palace’s courtyard, which appears regularly as the spot where the likes of Winston Churchill are seen coming and going from the palace. ELY CATHEDRAL Dating back to 1083, this Cambridgeshire landmark doubles as Westminster Abbey for the Queen and Philip Mountbatten’s wedding.
Greenwich Naval College
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A NEW ERA
Olivia Colman and Tobias Menzies in The Crown
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dventurous gourmets are in luck in London, which is now recognised as the restaurant capital of the world, seeing off rivals such as Paris and New York. Indian restaurants especially have raised the bar, banishing clichéd interiors and anonymous curries. You can be confident of finding the best Indian dishes in sophisticated surroundings. Key players on the London restaurant scene are sisters Camellia and Namita Panjabi, and Namita’s husband Ranjit Mathrani. All were born in Mumbai and studied at Cambridge before pursuing successful careers in marketing, banking, fashion and the civil service. All came from gourmet families fascinated by food but definitely did not expect to become restaurateurs. Fate decided otherwise and now, nearly 40 years later, their London restaurants have rewritten the rule book, introducing superb gourmet cuisine from across the subcontinent. These are restaurants for pleasure, celebrations, romantic dates and even business entertaining. If you are heading to the fashion boutiques of Sloane Street or department store Harvey Nichols, I recommend Amaya in the heart
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of Belgravia. Since opening in 2004, Amaya has been a success with locals and visitors alike, winning a Michelin star and maintaining it. Amaya is a modern take on an Indian restaurant with lighter food. The luxurious interior has a terrific atmosphere; pure theatre based around the open kitchen with traditional grills serving seafood, kebabs, slow-cooked meat dishes and delicious breads. There are vegetarian dishes, too, with subtle spices enhancing fine ingredients. Try a magnificent seafood platter of wild prawns, scallops in herb sauce and fresh oysters flash-grilled with coconut and ginger. Whole baby cauliflower is cooked in the tandoor with chilli and mustard, while spinach patties are stuffed with spiced fig. You can also try spicy lamb chops, venison kebabs and traditional biryanis, all utterly delicious. Enjoy the à la carte and tasting menus over a leisurely dinner, lunchtime platters when you’re in a hurry and weekend menus when you’re relaxed. If I’m in a more traditional mood, I head to Veeraswamy. It’s London’s oldest Indian restaurant, founded in 1926, so it’s the same age as Her Majesty the Queen. I love this airy room on the first floor with
IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RESTAURANTS
Indian restaurants in London are among the best in the world with creative chefs, elegant interiors and a buzzing atmosphere, says Jennifer Sharp
INDIAN RESTURANTS | WHERE NOW
large windows and decor that’s a playful nod to grand maharajah style, with luxurious chandeliers, silk curtains and rich handmade carpets. The menu features traditional pan-Indian dishes with clever modern twists. An enticing range of starters includes soups, street food, kebabs, crab cakes and salads. There is mouthwatering seafood from the south such as Kerala prawns with coconut and kokum flowers, and Malabar lobster curry with turmeric and green mango. Meat dishes include roast duck vindaloo and Hyderabadi biryani in sealed pots with aged rice. Veeraswamy has a Michelin star and it’s perfect if you are exploring Mayfair, shopping in Regent Street or eating before or after a show in the theatre district. My favourite Indian restaurant in London though is Chutney Mary, which moved from Chelsea to St James’s in 2015. Its neighbours are art dealers, private members’ clubs and the regal St James’s Palace. This glamorous restaurant and cocktail bar is decorated with antiques, beautiful textiles and magical lighting. The cooking is stupendously good, a destination for well-travelled foodies. Camellia and Namita Panjabi have collected authentic dishes
from all over India and creatively reworked them for modern tastes. There are too many to mention but try the signature dessert bowl with tiny versions of chocolate bomb, ice cream, halwa, kulfi and gulab jamun. The wine list includes cocktails such as passionfruit Sour, saffron Martini and spiced Old Fashioned. For dinner with drinks, these three sophisticated restaurants cost in excess of £70 per person. For informal eating, try Masala Zone for authentic street food, mouthfuls to eat with your fingers such as dahl puri filled with chickpeas and chutney, or gol guppa, wholewheat biscuits with lentil and tamarind. There are vegetable samosa chaat, fried prawns from Goa, minced lamb kebabs and Mumbai’s popular pao bhaji – a vegetable and chilli mash with caramelised freshly baked pao bread. There are nine different regional curries and the ever-popular thalis with seven or eight items on a platter. At £35 a head for dinner with a glass of wine, it works for both Londoners and visitors. Find branches in Soho, Islington, Camden, Bayswater, Earl’s Court, in Selfridges and – my favourite – Covent Garden, with its puppets from Rajasthan. www.realindianfood.com
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This image: Ushvani spa Right: Bridal dress at the V&A
WHERE NOW | INDIAN LONDON
INDIAN LONDON THE SOUTH ASIA EXHIBITION AT THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM Though not all about India, this exhibition features interesting pieces from the region including India, Afghanistan, Pakistan and other countries south of the Himalayas. The collection is vast, with almost 60,000 pieces. The collection features Mughalera miniature paintings and jewellery, 19th-century photos from India and a collection of contemporary art by Indian and Pakistani practitioners. www.vam.ac.uk
MADAME TUSSAUDS Madame Tussauds London has wax versions of famous celebrities, including Deepika Padukone – the current highest-paid Indian actress. Her statue was unveiled in March. Another famous figure is Priyanka Chopra, one of India’s most popular celebrities and recipient of a National Film Award in 2008. She starred in Quantico and Baywatch. Her waxwork arrived in June, the last of four statues of her to go up across the globe. Other notable stars include actors Hrithik Roshan and Katrina Kaif, and cricketer Virat Kohli. www.madame tussauds.com
STATUES AND HOMES Did you know that you can see influential Indians around the capital? Well, in statue form. Mahatma Gandhi campaigned for India’s independence from British rule and you can see his statues in Parliament Square and Tavistock Square. The one in Parliament Square is the first of any Indian person in the square, unveiled to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Gandhi’s return to India from South Africa. You can also see the outside of Gandhi’s house, where he stayed as a student at 20 Baron’s Court Road, which is marked by a Blue Plaque. www.english-heritage.org.uk
THE NEHRU CENTRE The Nehru Centre in Mayfair is associated with the High Commission of India and is the main cultural centre for Indians abroad. It organises Indian cultural events such as music, dance and theatre productions and holds seminars, lectures and film screenings to promote academic discussion around Indian culture. The schedule is jam-packed. www.nehrucentre.org.uk
THE WALLACE COLLECTION Put together by the historian William Dalrymple, Forgotten Masterpieces of Indian Painting for the East India Company is the first exhibition of its kind in the UK. It showcases the paintings commissioned by officials of the East India Company during the 18th and 19th centuries, bringing
together different styles and artistic traditions from across the country. This display pays tribute to overlooked artists of the period, who deserve recognition for producing masterpieces that are among some of the greatest in Indian history. www.wallacecollection.org
THE BRITISH LIBRARY The British Library has an extensive range of texts and historical documents relating to India and South Asia, including a vast photographic collection of more than 250,000 images dating back as far as the 1850s, which can be viewed by appointment. The Delhi Collection contains the remnants of the Mughal Imperial Library – most of the collection can be viewed in the Asian and African Studies Reading Room. www.bl.uk
USHVANI Voted as the UK’s Best Day Spa by Tatler, Ushvani offers treatments in luxurious and unique surroundings. The extensive facilities include a pool and steam room, as well as a tea room in which you can enjoy its signature hibiscus tea. Treatments include massages that incorporate an ancient Asian philosophy, which focuses on spiritual harmony and natural treatments. www.ushvani.com
USHVANI COURTESY OF USHVANI; BRIDAL DRESS © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; WAXWORKS COURTESY OF MADAME TUSSAUDS, LONDON; THE V&A EXTERIOR © VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON; GANDHI STATUE © ISTOCK
Fabian Pountney discovers Indian icons in the capital
Left: Statue of Gandhi This image: The V&A
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Priyanka Chopra and Virat Kohli waxworks at Madame Tussauds
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WHERE NOW | PRODUCTS
Thames View Framed Print by Richard Macneil John Lewis & Partners, £180, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX
View of the Thames: Charing Cross Bridge by Alfred Sisley Tate Modern shops, from £25, Bankside, SE1 9TG
Gifts of the
RIVER THAMES As the Totally Thames festival floats into town this month, here are paintings that celebrate our great river
London’s River Thames at Westminster Framed Print John Lewis & Partners, £130, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX
Waterloo Bridge, London by Carl Randall National Portrait Gallery, £200, St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS
Hand-drawn Map of London by Jenni Sparks We Built This City, £130, 57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF
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The Ship of Tolerance
L Totally Thames festival
ondon wouldn’t even be here if it wasn’t for our beloved, murky river, so the fact that the Totally Thames festival (1-30 Sep) covers a whole month is incredibly well-deserved. Dive in (not literally or you may get ill) and enjoy 30 days of watery events up and down the river. The programme includes The Ship of Tolerance. Sailing around the world spreading its message of universal connectivity through art, this 18m-long floating sculpture was decorated by hundreds of children. You can see it at the Millennium Bridge (from 4 Sep). Meanwhile, the Foragers of the Foreshore exhibition (25-29 Sep) is dedicated to London mudlarks, who like to dig around in the Thames mud in search of long-lost treasures. This mucky activity has been a hobby since Victorian times, so head to the Bargehouse at the OXO Tower and you’ll see all sorts of artefacts (www.totallythames.org). From sticky to speedy, The Great River Race (14 Sep) is known as London’s Marathon on the river. Sailors from all
over the western hemisphere are expected, steering anything from a Chinese dragon boat to a Hawaiian war canoe – it’ll be quite a sight. Starting in the Docklands, the first boat should sail through Tower Bridge at around 11.45am and the race ends in Richmond (www.greatriverrace.co.uk). For more sedate sightseeing, there’s Regatta London (29 Sep), where participants take to the water in either a kayak, canoe, paddleboard or rowing boat. The Thames will be closed to all other traffic for the day and proceeds go to environmental, mental health and youth rowing charities (www.regatta.london). Elsewhere, Thames Clippers is running Illuminated River guided boat tours all month, allowing you to take a look at the new light installations that adorn the Thames’ bridges (www.thamesclippers.com/totallythames).
NEIL SIMPSON Sightseeing Editor
THE SHIP OF TOLERANCE © CHRIS DORNEY; ROMAN OIL LAMP AND MEDIEVAL PILGRIM BADGE © HANNAHSMILES.COM; TOTALLY THAMES FESTIVAL © LUCY YOUNG
‘The month for messing about on the river’
Foragers of the Foreshore
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PILGRIM BADGE © HANNAHSMILES.COM; TOTALLY THAMES FESTIVAL © LUCY YOUNG
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An African odyssey
The Southbank Centre’s Africa Utopia festival (13-15 Sep; p. 41) is back for its eighth year, continuing its mission to showcase the broad terrain of the continent’s cultural landscape. Presenting every facet of human culture, there’s going to be music, theatre, literature, fashion and lively debate. The British Olympian Denise Lewis will be part of a panel discussing protest in sport (14 Sep), and there’s a free fashion show that’s set to subvert African conventions (14 Sep). The programme is packed, while all weekend there’s an indoor market selling clothing, homeware and art. Africa Utopia explores the African diaspora too, as does Get Up, Stand Up Now (to 15 Sep; p. 40) – this cross-arts exhibition at Somerset House celebrates black creativity in Britain and beyond. www.southbankcentre.co.uk; www.somersethouse.org.uk
Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Wed-Sun & bank hols 11am-5pm. Adult £10.50; child £6.30. www.english-heritage.org.uk. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
ArcelorMittal Orbit This 115m-tall observation tower, designed by Turner Prize-winning artist Sir Anish Kapoor, offers spectacular views over the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and beyond. Adventurous types can abseil to the ground or whizz down its 178m tunnel slide, which is the world’s longest. Mon-Fri 11am-4pm; Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. General entry: adult £12.50; child £7.50. Entry and slide: adult £17.50; child £12.50. www.arcelormittalorbit. com. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2SS. T: 0333-800 8099. Off map. Station: Stratford.
Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by celebrated Baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. Daily 10am-5pm; 7, 10 & 28 Sep 10am-1pm. Adult £7; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.
The British Library The world’s largest library, with a great permanent collection as well as many temporary exhibitions. To 8 Sep: Leonardo da Vinci: A Mind in Motion. Study da Vinci’s most precious notebooks, including the Codex Leicester. Mon-Thur 9.30am-8pm; Fri 9.30am-6pm; Sat 9.30am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.
Chelsea Physic Garden
The London residence and principal workplace of the British monarch is normally closed to the public. To 29 Sep: Summer Opening. Tour 19 state rooms, the garden and the Queen Victoria’s Palace exhibition, which explains the indelible mark that the late monarch left on her home. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Adult £25; child £14. www.rct.uk/ buckinghampalace. The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
London’s oldest botanic garden was founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden. Admire 5,000 species of plants, including medicinal varieties and tropical specimens. Free daily tours. Sun-Fri 11am6pm. Adult £10; child £6.50. www.chelseaphysic garden.co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
Changing the Guard Watch the Changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt (except in very wet weather). During the ceremony, one regiment takes over from another. The Queen’s Guard consists of the St James’s Palace and Buckingham Palace detachments. The New Guard, which during the course of the ceremony become the Queen’s Guard, marches to Buckingham Palace from Wellington Barracks. From 10am; check for dates; free to attend. www.householddivision.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.
The Charterhouse Dating back to 1348, this historic site was originally a burial site during the Black Death, before becoming an almshouse in 1611. Previously hidden in plain sight by a high border wall, the handsome Charterhouse has only been open to the public since 2017. There’s a museum about its past, while visitors can also attend evening services in its tiny chapel. Tours must be booked to visit the rest of the site. 12 Sep: Open Gardens. Spend an evening exploring the gardens. Tue-Sun 11am-5.30pm; approximately three tours per day. Museum and chapel free; standard tour from £12; Brothers’ tour from £18. www.thecharterhouse.org. Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AN. T: 020-3818 8873. C9. Station: Barbican.
Cutty Sark Climb on board the world’s last surviving tea clipper, located in Greenwich. Meet the colourful characters from Cutty Sark’s past and discover stories of life on board the fastest ship of her day. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £15; child £7.50. Joint tickets with the Royal Observatory available. Book online to save. www.rmg.co.uk. King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Dennis Severs’ House Since 1979, visitors have been able to explore the home of the late artist Dennis Severs. Ten rooms illustrate the life of a family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 17th to 19th centuries. Check for times and tours. Tickets £5-£15. www.dennissevershouse. co.uk. 18 Folgate St, E1 6BX. T: 020-7247 4013. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
DID YOU KNOW? Every morning at ZSL London Zoo, a keeper has to level out all of the holes that the aardvarks dig during the night
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73
IMAGES COURTESY OF AFRICA UTOPIA; AARDVARK © ISTOCK
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Really great days out that make a real difference
close encounters @zsllondonzoo #ZooLife
Experience it for yourself at zsl.org/london Camden Town | Regentâ€™s Park
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This 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London. Its museum, historic rooms and shop recently reopened following a refurbishment project, which also transformed its botanical gardens and opened up several historic rooms for the first time. 18-19 Sep: Summer Film Series: Watch Bohemian Rhapsody or A Star is Born on the lawn; adult £17; child £12.50. 22 Sep: Open House. Free tours throughout the day. Museum & historic rooms daily 10.30am-5pm; botanic garden dawn to dusk. Admission free; charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Ave, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge. There are several of these treetop obstacle courses located in the London area: Go Ape! Battersea Park is the most central, followed by Alexandra Palace then Cockfosters in the north, as well as Black Park near Heathrow. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a reassuring harness during this three-and-a-halfhour experience, plus squeal-inducing zipwires. Check online for times and prices. www.goape. co.uk. Various locations. T: 01603-895 500.
IMAGES © JOHN CHASE
Go Ape! London
This summer marked 75 years since D-Day, which was the largest simultaneous land, sea and air combat operation that has ever taken place. Before D-Day however, there was the Battle of Britain. Fought from July to October 1940 against Nazi Germany, it is widely acknowledged as the first time a major battle was conducted by air. If all this war talk is raising your pulse, you’ll be pleased to hear that you can visit the heart of the action: The Battle of Britain Bunker is located on the western outskirts of Greater London near Uxbridge Station where, down 76 steps, you’ll discover a hive of maps and displays that hasn’t changed since Winston Churchill visited during the campaign. www.battleofbritain bunker.co.uk
Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, which was first published in 1755, in this 18th-century period home. Check for staged performances, talks and tours. Mon-Sat 11am5.30pm; closed bank hols. Adult £7; child £3.50; cash only. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/Chancery Lane.
Dr Johnson’s House
Your official River Bus service
Fun. Fast. Frequent (coming soon)
adult singl e
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SIGHTSEEING Ham House and Gardens One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses, with gardens that are said to be haunted. Free, 30-min architecture and garden history tours most days. House daily noon-4pm; garden, shop and café daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12.50; child £6.25. www.nationaltrust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 020-8940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.
Handel & Hendrix in London The former homes of the Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. See where Handel lived and composed for 36 years, plus Hendrix’s bedroom restored to how it was between 1968 and 1969.
24 Sep: The Good, The Bad & The Ugly. Guy Withers
(tenor) and William Cole (harpsichord) explore some of Handel’s most heroic and exciting music, and characters in the form of three Kings: Bajazet (Tamerlano), Grimoaldo (Rodelinda) and Belshazzar; from 6.30pm, £15. 28 Sep: Jimi Hendrix House Party. In conjunction with London’s Emerge Festival, join this themed party. Expect DJs, dancing and drinks; from 7pm, booking essential. Mon-Sat 11am-6pm; live, free Baroque music performances every Wed & Sat 11.30am-1.30pm, Sat 2pm-4pm. Please check online for full event details, times and prices. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhendrix.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. E6. Station: Bond Street.
DID YOU KNOW? The waxwork of the Queen that is currently on display at Madame Tussauds is the 23rd to have been made. Images of the clay head were sent to Buckingham Palace during the creative process
HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. In service until 1965, it’s now a reminder of Britain’s naval heritage. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £16.20; child £8.10. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.
Houses of Parliament See the stunning art and architecture inside this working parliament building, which is also a royal palace. Tours Sat. Multimedia self-guided tour adult £19.50, young adult (16-18) £17, child £8 (one child free per paying adult); guided tour adult £26.50, young adult £22, child £11.50; childfriendly family guided tour adult £19.50, child free. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.
The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures, this is one of only two buildings left from the medieval Palace of Westminster after an 1834 fire. Don’t miss the ornate ceiling carvings. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.70; child £3.40. www.englishheritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 0207222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.
Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens, was Princess Diana’s last home and is currently where the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge officially reside. The new Victoria 2019 exhibition honours what would have been the late monarch’s 200th birthday, revealing the more personal side to Queen Victoria’s life at Kensington Palace. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £19.50; child £9.70. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington. On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Regular family events. Daily 10am-5pm. Free admission. www.english-heritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
Tours available year round Book online or call us on +44 20 7219 4114
Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre contains plants from across the globe, with tropical greenhouses, a Chinese pagoda, a treetop walkway and the world’s biggest Victorian glasshouse. There’s also a children’s garden designed especially for visitors aged two-12 which has an activity trail and a tree canopy walk. To 27 Oct: Chihuly: Reflections on Nature. Glass artist Dale Chihuly displays 32 of his works around the grounds. Daily 10am-7pm. Adult £18; child £6; charges for special exhibitions. www.kew.org. Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 0208332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.
QUEEN WAXWORK COURTESY OF MADAME TUSSAUDS LONDON
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The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) welcomes the world’s travel & tourism industry
Preferred charity partner
Please visit the concierge desk during your stay - nobody knows the UK like Les Clefs d’Or.
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SIGHTSEEING KidZania London
The London Bridge Experience
The London Dungeon
Parents take a back seat here as children take charge. Three times the size of Trafalgar Square, KidZania has everything a child could want including TV and animation studios, a chocolate factory and aviation academy – there’s even a tattoo parlour. The early-years area means that younger siblings will have fun too. You’ll leave wondering why there wasn’t a KidZania when you were growing up... which is why it hosts occasional adult nights! Daily 10am-7pm. Advance: adult from £16; child from £19. On the day: adult from £18; child from £38. www.kidzania.co.uk. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Multi-sensory special effects and actors bring this spinetinglingly scary attraction to life. Tickets include admission to the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are located in a former plague pit where you have to make your way through a scary maze, dripping with ‘blood’. This is said to be one of the country’s scariest attractions – you have been warned! Look out for a less scary option especially for little ones. Please check for times and prices. www.thelondonbridgeexperience. com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.
This thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. See, hear, feel and even smell the ‘bad old days’ as they come to life before you thanks to costumed characters in a thrilling experience. It’s not suitable for small children or the fainthearted. Look out online for special events. Joint tickets are available with SEA LIFE London Aquarium, Coca-Cola London Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure. Please check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 020-7654 0809. F8. Station: Waterloo/ Embankment/Westminster.
Coca-Cola London Eye This London icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels – don’t forget to share your London Eye memories using #eyelovelondon. You can see many landmarks from your glass pod, with information on each one via a touch screen. Joint tickets available with the SEA LIFE London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure. Please check for times and prices. www.londoneye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
Everything we hoped for... blown away by the setting, the ambiance of the restaurant, the staff but most of all by the food. - Bookatable Review
On the site of Bloomberg’s European headquarters, this cultural hub showcases an ancient Roman temple which was built here nearly 2,000 years ago, to honour the god Mithras. The remains are brought to life through an immersive, multi-sensory experience. Discover more than 600 objects left by the very first Londoners, as well as modern art on the ground floor at Bloomberg SPACE. To 11 Jan: Human Activity.. Londoner Daniel Silver takes over SPACE with his large sculptures, which explore themes such as psychology, the history of sculpture-making, ancient cultures and archaeology. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun noon5pm; first Thur of the month 10am-8pm. Admission free. www.londonmithraeum.com. 12 Walbrook, EC4N 8AA. T: 0207330 7500. D10. Station: Bank.
ZSL London Zoo
With glorious views across the River Thames and a stunning bar and terrace, The Brasserie at Sir Christopher Wren offers upscale dining in the heart of Royal Windsor. Just steps from Windsor Castle and Eton Bridge, The Brasserie is the perfect spot for lunch or dinner on a day out in Windsor. Famed for our Afternoon Tea, you can enjoy the British tradition whilst watching swans glide down the river. Sir Christopher Wren Hotel and Spa, Thames Street, Royal Windsor 01753 336138
Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. Highlights include a penguin beach, Asiatic lions and endangered Sumatran tigers. There’s a reptile house, walkthrough spider and lemur displays and Gorilla Kingdom, while the ‘Junior Keeper for a Day’ package allows visitors to meet various animals. Daily from 10am; check online for seasonal closing times and prices. www.zsl.org. Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. B6. Station: Camden Town.
Don’t miss the Changing the Guard ceremony (p. 22)
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DID YOU KNOW? The 62m-high Monument stands 62m from the spot where the 1666 Great Fire of London started – and a smaller statue, the Golden Boy of Pye Corner, stands at the exact point where the fire was put out
Madame Tussauds The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of entertainment, politics, sport and history, from the Queen to Adele. Don’t miss the permanent Star Wars exhibition with 11 sets from the films, the chance to stand with the royal family on Buckingham Palace’s balcony, or Tom Hearty, a model of actor Tom Hardy with its own heartbeat. Other additions include Dua Lipa and Captain Marvel. Joint tickets available with Sea Life London Aquarium, London Dungeon, Coca-Cola London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure. Check for times. Adult £35; child £30. www.madame tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-222 0177. C6. Station: Baker Street.
The Monument This beautiful stone column standing in the heart of the City was built in 1677 to commemorate the 1666 Great Fire of London. Climb the 311 steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £5; child £2.50. Joint tickets with Tower Bridge available. www.themonument.org.uk. Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.
The Royal Mews
The Royal Observatory
This part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. Learn about the mews’ history with the free multimedia guide, which includes games, a video of the Diamond Jubilee State Coach’s first-ever journey and interactive, 360-degree photography of the Gold State Coach’s interior. Kids will enjoy learning how to harness a horse, as well as the busy programme of art sessions. 6 Sep: Little Foals. Under-fives can listen to a story about the horses and the carriages, followed by arts and crafts. 10.30am-12.30pm. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12; child £6.80; under-fives free. www.rct.uk/royalmews. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.
Stand astride the historic Prime Meridian, where east meets west, to take your place at the centre of the world. Uncover the history of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and see clocks and timepieces that have completely changed how we live. You can also see the Great Equatorial Telescope, one of the largest telescopes of its kind in the world. Admission includes entrance to Flamsteed House, where the Astronomer Royals lived and worked. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £16; child £8. Joint tickets with Cutty Sark available. Book online to save. Audio guide tour available. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Ave, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Maze Hill/Cutty Sark.
The O2 Huge venue for entertainment and exhibitions, incorporating the ICON designer brand shopping outlet, an Oxygen Freejumping trampoline park and the new, 12-station virtual-reality zone from Immotion. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich. Sir Christopher Wren’s riverside masterpiece, part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is home to a neoclassical chapel and the Painted Hall, which recently reopened following a major conservation project. Its enhanced undercroft space now includes a café, shop and a gallery, while you can also see the foundations of Henry VIII’s birthplace, Greenwich Palace. Tour options include guided talks, multimedia handsets and a kids’ trail. 23 Sep: Choral Evensong. Part of September’s Totally Thames festival, this sonorous service takes place in the chapel; 5.30pm-6.30pm; free. Daily 10am-5pm. General admission free; Painted Hall adult £12, child free. www.ornc.org. King William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games, this park includes an aquatics centre and the ArcelorMittal Orbit observation tower. Please check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark. co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.
HOME OF THE
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Old Royal Naval College
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SIGHTSEEING Sea Life London
The View from The Shard
This is one of Europe’s largest aquariums, with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels, including a glass walkway above a school of sharks. You can also snorkel with sharks (£150 including admission), while the Rainforest Adventure attraction is your chance to see snapping turtles and the world’s largest species of spider. Check for times and prices. Joint tickets available with Coca-Cola London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure. www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0333-321 2001. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.
Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe in a high-speed lift – 68 floors at six metres per second. You’ll reach the top in less than a minute. At 309m up, on a clear day you can see as far as Windsor – and if you can’t see four major landmarks you can visit again for free (check for terms). On the open-air Skydeck on level 72, only the sky is above you. Alternatively, you can make a Saturday night of it at a silent disco on 14 & 28 Sep; £37.50, book online. Daily 10am-10pm. Adult from £27.20, child from £21.25; tickets must be bought in advance online. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.
DID YOU KNOW? Leeds Castle was a makeshift hospital during World War II and is home to the world’s only dog collar museum, with exhibits spanning five centuries
Spencer House This aristocratic palace was built in 1766 by Earl Spencer, a relation of Princess Diana. Overlooking Green Park, the house boasts sumptuous, Imperial Rome-inspired interiors; it is possible to visit Spencer House’s eight state rooms on a one-hour guided tour. Sun 10.30am-5.30pm; Mon pre-booked groups only. Adult £15.50; child £12.50. www.spencerhouse.co.uk. 27 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NR. T: 020-7514 1958. E7. Station: Green Park/St James’s Park.
THE STATE ROOMS BUCKINGHAM PALACE
Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brassrubbing centre, live classical music (some free) and art exhibitions. Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. Regular, free lunchtime concerts from 1pm; check online for dates. 18 Sep: The Silver Ghosts. This seven-piece swing band performs high-energy numbers that characterise the sounds of the ‘20s, ‘30s and ‘40s; 8pm-10pm; booking essential. Mon-Fri 8.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun 9am-6pm. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
St Paul’s Cathedral
20 July – 29 September
A special exhibition at the Summer Opening of Buckingham Palace
Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Then head down to the crypt, with its monuments to Wren and Lord Nelson. The current Great Restoration of the 1920s exhibition details the little-known story of the project to save the dome, after the cathedral was served a Dangerous Structures notice in 1924. The price of admission also includes a multimedia guide and tours, subject to availability on the day. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £20; child £8.50. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.
LEEDS CASTLE © ISTOCK; COCA-COLA LONDON EYE © VISIT LONDON
For great views of the city, jump on the Coca-Cola London Eye (p. 28)
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SIGHTSEEING 18 Stafford Terrace Reopening on 7 Sep following three months of conservation cleaning, this house offers an insight into the personal life of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne: he resided here from 1875 with his wife Marion, their two children and servants. A highlight is the costumed actor tours, every Saturday from 11am, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell for a dramatic account based on old diaries. Open Wed, Sat & Sun; pre-booked tours 11am, drop-in 2pm-5.30pm, or late tour from 7pm on selected Wednesday evenings; please check website for dates. Adult from £9; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
the Great Hall, Hagrid’s Hut, Diagon Alley and a recreation of Platform 9¾. The new Gringotts Wizarding Bank set is the Studio Tour’s biggest expansion to date, featuring the wizarding bank, the Lestrange Vault and a gallery of goblins. From 27 Sep: Dark Arts. The Studio Tour presents the sinister side to Harry Potter, with attractions including Death Eater duels, pools of silvery unicorn blood and vats of troll snot. The Great Hall set will be decorated with more than 100 floating pumpkins. Check for times. Adult £45; child £37. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour. co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.
Wellington Arch Climb to the viewing galleries of this magnificent arch for panoramic views over the Royal Parks and Houses of Parliament, plus exhibitions. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £5.70; child £3.40. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Westminster Abbey Consecrated in 1065, this abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. It also houses Poets’ Corner, the final resting place of Charles Dickens and other famous writers. In 2018,
Tower Bridge This breathtaking bridge, completed in 1894, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its less grand, but much older neighbour, London Bridge). You can tour the engine rooms with a knowledgeable guide and even join a yoga class on the glass walkways, 42m above the River Thames. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £9.80; child £4.20. Check for bridge lift times. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and the Jewel House, home of the Crown Jewels. Enjoy free guided tours by ‘Beefeaters’ (Yeoman Warders). Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, which dates back to 1340 (tickets are free). 13-15 Sep: Food Festival. This celebration of food and drink takes place in the moat. TueSat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £27.50; child £13.10. www.hrp.org.uk. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Up at The O2 Prepare for an unforgettable 90-minute experience which will take you on an uplifting expedition across the roof of The O2. From the viewing platform at the top you can enjoy spectacular 360-degree views of the River Thames, Emirates Air Line, Canary Wharf and beyond. Please check for times and wheelchair access. From £30. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2680. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
SEE IT. HEAR IT. FEEL IT. The all-new Chelsea FC Museum and Tour experience. Get closer than ever before with exclusive content, 360 films and much more.
Warner Bros. Studio Tour London Visitors can explore behind the scenes of the legendary Harry Potter films with The Making of Harry Potter tour. Witness iconic film sets including
TOURS AVAILABLE IN 12 LANGUAGES
VISIT CHELSEAFC.COM/TOURS FOR MORE INFORMATION.
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SIGHTSEEING the abbey unveiled its first major structural addition in more than a quarter of a millennium, a new tower that leads to The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries. Housed in the medieval triforium and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area, this exhibition space tells the abbey’s story by displaying more than 300 objects, including Henry VII’s effigy head, modelled on his death mask. Mon-Fri 9.30am-4.30pm; Sat 9am-2pm. Wed late opening 4.30pm-7pm, with half-price entry. Abbey only adult £23; child £10. Abbey and The Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries adult £28; child £10. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.
Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a regular hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service taking in all the major London landmarks from Westminster Pier. Boats leave the pier every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for the Tower of London), before returning non-stop to Westminster. Daily departures 11am-5.30pm. Adult single £10.75, return £16; child single £7, return £10.75. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.
Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an all-day hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. The London Showboat cabaret cruise departs from Westminster Pier and includes a four-course meal with live music, daily from 7.30pm. Other cruises also available. Please check the website for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7740 0400.
London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. Mon-Fri 10.45am-5.45pm; Sat-Sun 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.50; child £10. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com/river-cruise. London Eye Pier, SE1 7PB. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 22 piers across the capital. Discounts with Oyster cards and contactless payment. Download its free in:flow app, which uses GPS tracking to find out your location and provide real-time audio explanation of the sights. River Roamer hop-on and hop-off (valid all day from 9am) advance adult £17.80, child £8.90; on the day adult £19.80, child £9.90; under-fives travel free. Adult standard single journeys from £4.80; adult Oyster/app/ online single journeys from £4.40. www.thames clippers.com. Various points along River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.
THE ROYAL MEWS BUCKINGHA M PALACE
This hop-on, hop-off service features live audio commentary. Departs from Westminster Pier to Greenwich 10am-4pm and from Greenwich to Westminster via St Katharine’s 11am-5pm. Please check for prices (33 per cent off published fares with a valid TfL Travelcard). www.thamesriver services.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.
ThamesJet Try ThamesRush, a 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience – the most extreme ride on the river – and you’ll enjoy sightseeing, speed and awesome aquabatics all in one. Departs from Westminster Pier. From 10am, but depends on the tide so please check for times. Minimum
From the Gold State Coach to the State Stables, discover more about Buckingham Palace’s historic carriages and The Queen’s horses that pull them.
Visit the Royal Albert Hall (p. 34)
Photogr apher: Sam
Travel in style this summer
ROYAL ALBERT HALL © ISTOCK
Thames River Services
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SIGHTSEEING height requirement 1.35m/4ft 5in. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Westminster Bridge, SE1 7GL. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
TOURS & GUIDED WALKS
DID YOU KNOW? The British Library has more than eight million stamps and 13 million books
BEE Midtown Guided Walks Approximately 10 free, themed walking tours per month around Bloomsbury, Farringdon and Holborn, an area also known as Midtown. 14 Sep: Bad Taste of the Town. Visit Holborn and St Giles locations that have a connection to William Hogarth, the celebrated 18th-century painter, engraver and satirist; Chancery Lane Station, 11am & 2pm. The full guided walks programme is published near the bottom of BEE Midtown’s homepage; most walks do not require prebooking. www.bee-midtown.org. Departure points vary. T: 020-7078 7077.
City of London Guides Walks A variety of themed walks focusing on everything from Fleet Street to Smithfield Market. Prices range from free to £12.50. www.cityoflondon guides.com. Departure points vary.
The Classic Tour
Hop aboard a 1960s Routemaster double-decker bus and see London’s landmarks in an entertaining, 75-minute tour. Check for times and prices. www.theclassic tour.com. Departs from Northumberland Ave, off Trafalgar Square (bus stop outside The Grand hotel). T: 0844-318 7655. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Evan Evans The oldest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle to Bath, plus the London sights. Check for times and prices. www.evanevans tours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7950 1777.
Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London expert offers quality tour experiences to locations such as Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Brighton. Check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of open-top, double-decker buses. Various ticket packages are available, from one to three days. A one-day orientation tour includes a free, 90-minute walking tour and a one-way river cruise. Classic Ticket (one day) adult £39, child £29. www.bigbustours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7808 6753.
Big Bus Walking Tours Enjoy a 90-minute historic and royal guided walk from Green Park or Trafalgar Square, along Carlton Gardens, the Mall and through St James’s Park to Horse Guards Parade, taking in areas that can’t be reached by bus. Daily 10am. Free with Big Bus London Tour tickets. www.bigbustours.com. Departs from the Big Bus stop in Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge- or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a taxi for up to five people. Choose from London tours by day or night, trips outside the city and themed tours including a Doctor Who option – on which you’ll see a Tardis and locations from the films and TV series. There’s even a tour designed for fans of TV’s Downton Abbey. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 020-8590 3621.
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London Sightseeing Tours C
Harry Potter, Downton Abbey, The Beatles, Doctor Who, Countryside Tours, Stonehenge and so much more!
CAPITAL TAXI TOURS
T: 07970 911223
...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings and sightseeing activities in the area
Come on inside...
A dream for London’s most nosey visitors, Open House London (21-22 Sep) is your chance to step inside buildings that are usually off-limits. Take your pick from more than 800 addresses, including residential spaces within the love-it-or-hate-it, Brutalist-style Barbican development, as well as an old flour mill in the Docklands called Millennium Mills: this 10-storey, derelict eyesore near City Airport has been used as a filming location many times, including by Stanley Kubrick for Full Metal Jacket. It’s currently being redeveloped, so this is your last chance to explore it. You can also step inside the historic Old Bailey, which is the central criminal court of England and Wales. Download the app to see which open buildings you’re near. www.openhouselondon.org.uk
The Original Tour
See the sights aboard an open-top bus. The Essential Tour includes an English-speaking guide who will describe the sights, or there are multilingual audio commentary tours, during which you can hop-on and hop-off the bus. Three-hour, one-day, 24-, 48- and 72-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.
With more than 65 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and hop-off at more than 80 stops. Its 24-hour tour includes free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. 24-hour adult £34, child £16; 48-hour adult £44, child £21. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Jack the Ripper Tour
Kia Oval Tour
10 Downing Street
Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours
Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones of London Walking Tours devised these popular two-hour walks in 1982, offering an intriguing look at the infamous serial killer. Booking essential. Daily 7pm. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. Exit 4, Aldgate East Station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map.
They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us
Tour of the famous ground, home of Surrey County Cricket Club since 1845 and a regular venue for England matches. Check for times and prices. www.kiaoval.com. Kia Oval, Kennington, SE11 5SS. T: 020-3946 0100. Off map. Station: Oval.
London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Each takes around two hours, departure points vary and there’s no need to book. As well as Jack the Ripper, Harry Potter and ghost walks, London Walks offers routes around London’s ‘villages’. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.
Original London Sightseeing Walk Ninety-minute walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre, near Trafalgar Square on Cockspur Street. An Explore Walks Pass, which grants access to all three walks over a 48-hour period, costs £20. Or book the Haunted London walk for £10; check for dates. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
Royal Albert Hall Tours Tour this Victorian concert hall. Tours daily 9.30am4.30pm; no tours 15-20 Sep. Adult £14.50; child £7.50; no under-fives until 21 Sep. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.
See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm, 8pm, 8.30pm, 9.15pm, 9.45pm & 10.15pm. Adult £21; child £12. www.see londonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.
Shakespeare’s Globe Reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Elizabethan Globe Theatre; the separate Sam Wanamaker Playhouse is a candlelit performance space. Daily from 9.30am, check for afternoon tours; exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £17; child £10. www.shakespearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.
The Steam Dreams Rail Co Via a network of more than 100 stations around the UK, take a memorable trip on board Steam Dream’s fleet of restored steam trains – which includes the Flying Scotsman. Day trips from London include Exeter, Cheltenham, York and Bournemouth. www.steamdreams.co.uk. Departure points vary. T: 01483-209 888.
OLD BAILEY © CITY OF LONDON CORPORATION; 10 DOWNING STREET © ISTOCK; NELSON’S COLUMN © KEITH MINDHAM PHOTOGRAPHY
Family friendly sightseeing tours from the comfort of an iconic London Black Taxi
CAPITAL TAXI TOURS
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SIGHTSEEING Tottenham Hotspur Stadium Tour This 90-minute experience takes visitors behind the scenes of the new, world-class Tottenham Hotspur Stadium. Check for times. Adult £30; child £15; under-fives free. www.tottenhamhotspur. com/tours. 782 High Rd, N17 0BX. T: 020-3929 1882. Off map. Station: Seven Sisters, then bus.
Twizy Tours Hire a two-seater electric Renault Twizy, then drive yourself through the streets of London accompanied by a GPS-guided audio tour. Alternatively, rent a Twizy without the audio tour. Prices from £30 per rental. www.twizytours.com. Apcoa Parking Car Park, 21 Bryanston St, W1H 7AB. T: 07376-428 363. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
OUT OF TOWN Hampton Court Palace Once the favourite royal residence of King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace and 300-year-old maze is set in 60 acres of parkland on the river. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £23.70; child £11.90. www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.
The Original Tour Windsor & Eton Explore Windsor and nearby Eton College using 10 bus stops incorporating the castle grounds. Departures once an hour, 10am-4pm. Adult £14; child £7.50. Combined package with The Original Tour London (24 hours London, 24 hours Windsor) adult £44; child £20. www.theoriginaltour.com. Theatre Royal Windsor, Thames St, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1PS. T: 020-8877 1722. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Palace of Holyroodhouse The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, against the spectacular backdrop of Arthur’s Seat. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £15; child £8.70. www.rct.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley.
London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night
See By Night
Stonehenge The world’s most famous stone circle is more than 5,000 years old. Daily 9.30am-7pm. Adult £21.10; child £12.70. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Salisbury, then bus or taxi.
Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home. Changing the Guard alternate days 11am except Sun. Daily 10am-5.15pm. Adult £22.50; child £13. www.rct.uk/windsor castle. Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.
Nelson’s Column has towered over Trafalgar Square since 1843
Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel
at 19:30, 20:00, 20:30, 21:15, 21:45 and 22:15 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night
Adult - £21 Child - £12
Private tours available for groups day or night
Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744
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‘Welcome home, William Blake’
ate Britain’s latest blockbuster exhibition is dedicated to William Blake (from 11 Sep; p. 41), the 18th-century creative force who wove his startling stories of darkness and light through painting, printmaking and poetry. If you love drama, you’ll be pleased to discover that Blake’s work is utterly soaked in it. From towering gods with rippling muscles, to tortured underlings screeching in the pits of hell, William Blake dealt in extremes. Tate has collected more than 300 of his artworks for this show, with the intention of reintroducing him to the next generation of artists.
In an age when strange-looking cats are celebrities, it’s hard to believe that a talent of Blake’s magnitude was largely ignored during his lifetime. He tried to build a reputation with his only significant exhibition in 1809, but it was not a success. That show was held in a room above a hosiery shop, which Tate has recreated so that you can experience it. If William Blake had realised his ambition while he was alive, he would have painted the large frescos that he planned for. As such, his works The Spiritual Form of Nelson Guiding Leviathan and The Spiritual Form of Pitt Guiding Behemoth were painted on a humbler scale from 1805 to 1809; for William Blake, Tate has projected them on to its gallery walls to the scale that he dreamed of. Visual artistry is only half of the Blake story however, hence a section dedicated to his
poetry and prints. On display are his illustrations for John Bunyan’s The Pilgrim’s Progress as well as Blake’s Songs of Innocence and of Experience, considered to be the creative pinnacle of his art and poetry. Born in Soho in 1757, Blake grew up on this city’s streets and studied painting at the Royal Academy of Arts. He was a true Londoner, so the fact that he’s the star of an art exhibition here more than 200 years later is very special. Welcome home, William Blake.
NEIL SIMPSON Museums & Galleries Editor
PITY BY WILLIAM BLAKE © TATE; PORTRAIT OF WILLIAM BLAKE, 1802, COURTESY OF ROBERT N ESSICK
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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Uncover the story of London and its transport icons over the last 200 years Find out more and book in advance for Hidden London tours
Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
MUSEUMS Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Enjoy a self-guided audio tour to see inside the players’ changing rooms, tunnel, the dugout and more, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Both include a visit to the museum for an overview of the club’s long history. Please check for times, prices and Legends Tour. www.arsenal.com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 0207619 5003. Off map. Station: Arsenal.
Bank of England Museum
Known around the world, Body Worlds specialises in the human body. This flagship venue contains 200 exhibits, exploring how every part of the human works using the latest plastination technology. Daily 10am-7pm; last Fri every month 10am-10pm. Advance (at least 24 hours) adult £22.50, child £16; on the day adult £25; child £18. www.bodyworlds.co.uk. London Pavilion, 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 033-0223 3233. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Huge number of permanent displays and treasures from the Roman Empire, ancient Egypt, medieval Europe, ancient Iran and India. Regular talks, evening events and performances. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.
The Cartoon Museum This museum is dedicated to British cartoons, caricature and comic art from the 18th century to today, with a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions (p. 39). Tue-Sat 10.30am-8pm; Sun noon4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 63 Wells St, W1T 3QQ. T: 020-7580 8155. D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Tottenham Court Road.
Chelsea FC Stadium Tour & Museum Guided one-hour tours of the dressing room, players’ tunnel and press room, plus a museum. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Tour and museum adult £24, child £15; museum only adult £12, child £10; monthly ex-players tour with past stars of the game from £80. www.chelseafc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 020-7386 9373. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
DID YOU KNOW? The National Portrait Gallery has the only portrait that William Shakespeare posed for
Churchill War Rooms
Imperial War Museum
Explore the fortified secret bunker and the Cabinet War Rooms beneath Westminster, where Prime Minister Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II to plot the Allied victory. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £22; child £11. www.iwm. org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.
Huge displays relating to global conflicts from World War I to contemporary confrontations. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.iwm.org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. F9. Station: Lambeth North.
The Design Museum Contemporary design and architecture. To 15 Sep: Stanley Kubrick: The Exhibition. Explore the design story behind the film director’s work. Daily 10am-6pm; first Fri every month 10am-8pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.designmuseum.org. 224-238 Kensington High St, W8 6AG. T: 020-3862 5900. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
The Guards Museum The stories of the Foot Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £8; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.
Household Cavalry Museum Go behind the scenes of the Household Cavalry Regiments. Museum daily 10am-6pm. Check for occasional closures. Adult £8.50; child £6.50. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7. Station: Westminster/Embankment.
Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is a museum dedicated to his life and work. Permanent collections include paintings, drawings and sculptures. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm; 3pm tour every Wed and Sun (included in ticket price). Adult £9; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park Rd, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.
London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the largest official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the films. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7836 4913. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
London Transport Museum This museum displays the story of London’s transport system. Highlights include the world’s first Underground steam train and a padded cell – a train carriage dating back to the 1890s – and vintage travel posters. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £18; child free. www.ltmuseum. co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 0207379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates on the map on p. 72-73
LOST HORIZON I, 2008 (DETAIL), COURTESY OF ANTONY GORMLEY AND PINCHUKART CENTRE © THE ARTIST/PHOTO: STEPHEN WHITE; WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY
Men of steel
William Blake isn’t the only Londoner getting the A-lister exhibition treatment this month: Antony Gormley at the Royal Academy of Arts (from 21 Sep; p. 41) is a 13-room tribute to the contemporary sculptor, who grew up near Hampstead in north London. He’s best known for sculptures of male figures, such as the Angel of the North: the 20m-high winged steel man towers over northeast England‘s A1 road. Gormley will present new and old projects, including 1999’s tiny sculpture of a newborn child, Iron Baby, which will be placed in the middle of the Academy’s grand courtyard. For Host, Gormley will flood the floor of one room with seawater and clay, to suggest the murky soup from which human life grew; you won’t forget this show in a hurry.
Explore the story of the bank from its foundation in 1694, to its status today as the UK’s central bank. Exhibiting its books, silver, paintings, coins and photographs, plus modern gold bars and fun activities for kids. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank hols. Admission free. www.bankofengland. co.uk/museum. Bartholomew Lane, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-3461 5545. D10. Station: Bank.
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Natural History Museum Astounding collections at this family-friendly museum, with exhibits ranging from the Images of Nature gallery, to dinosaur skeletons and fossils. To 5 Jan: Museum of the Moon. This touring piece of art has arrived in London. Six metres in diameter, its glowing surface is decorated with NASA-sourced imagery of the moon. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Surely one of London’s most fun institutions, The Cartoon Museum (p. 38) has been entertaining sketch addicts for years. This summer it moved to new, more modern premises in Fitzrovia, with wacky interiors featuring smashed walls and tiger-striped floors. Inside, you’ll be able to trace the history of British cartoons, while the new museum’s first temporary display, Comic Creators: The Famous and the Forgotten, is dedicated to the art of the comic book. Expect a very British interpretation of the popular format.
The Old Operating Theatre Reached via a narrow spiral staircase, this museum is dedicated to Victorian surgery. Check online for events and talks, including film nights and surgical demonstrations. Mon 2pm-5pm; Tue-Sun & bank hols 10.30am-5pm. Adult £6.50; child £3.50. www.old operatingtheatre.com. 9a St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7188 2679. E10. Station: London Bridge.
THE CARTOON MUSEUM © JIM STEPHENSON
The Postal Museum The Museum of Freemasonry
National Army Museum
English Freemasonry emerged in the 1700s and is celebrated at this museum and library. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.museumfree masonry.org.uk. Freemasons’ Hall, Great Queen St, WC2B 5AZ. T: 020-7395 9257. D8. Station: Holborn.
Interactive displays and exhibitions tell the stories of soldiers’ lives. Daily 10am-5.30pm and until 8pm on 4 Sep. Admission free; charges for some exhibitions. www.nam.ac.uk. Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HT. T: 0207730 0717. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.
Museum of London
National Maritime Museum
The world’s largest urban history museum transports you through the capital’s tumultuous history to the present day. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.
Iconic maritime exhibits and British art. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for some guided tours, events and exhibitions. www.rmg. co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.
Thousands of exhibits explore postal history, including old post boxes and uniforms. Take a ride on the Mail Rail, a train in the underground tunnels. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £17; child £10. www.postalmuseum.org. 15-20 Phoenix Place, WC1X 0DA. T: 030-0030 0700. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum with more than 100 aircraft on show. 15 Sep: Battle of Britain Day. Family event 1pm-6pm. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special experiences. www.raf museum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.
European Museum of the Year 2018 High Street Kensington
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
A huge museum dedicated to science, technology and medicine, with a Red Arrows flight simulator and an IMAX cinema showing 3D films. Permanent galleries include Making the Modern World, with Stephenson’s Rocket and the Apollo 10 command module. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0333241 4000. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Sir John Soane’s Museum This 19th-century townhouse was owned by the architect Sir John Soane, which he left to the nation in 1837 and has been untouched since. It houses a gem of his collection, including Hogarth’s satirical artworks. Wed-Sun & bank hols, 10am-5pm. Check for tours and late-night opening events. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.
Somerset House This neo-classical, 18th-century building on the Thames houses the Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants, all surrounding a large courtyard. To 15 Sep: Get Up, Stand Up Now. Zak Ové curates this celebration of the creativity of Britain’s black communities (p. 22). Check for opening times. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Station: Temple.
Twinings Museum The flagship store of Twinings since 1706 has a mini exhibition reflecting the company’s 300-year history. See vintage teapots and caddies, plus the original Royal Warrant signed by Queen Victoria in 1837. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
The Vault Located under the old Coutts Bank, this vault was originally used to protect the Queen’s treasures. Now part of Hard Rock Cafe, it’s home to iconic rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
THE CUTTING EDGE The London Design Festival (14-22 Sep) is back, bringing with it all sorts of events. We’re very excited about Please Be Seated, a new commission for British designer Paul Cocksedge that’s going to dominate Finsbury Square Avenue. His wooden, octopus-like creation is huge, but thanks to its clever design it can be sat upon and walked through so as not to block this bustling thoroughfare. There are nine design districts in total, so pick one or two and spend a day exploring. www.londondesignfestival.com Victoria and Albert Museum
The V&A’s collection of fine and applied arts includes fashion, paintings, photographs and ceramics from around the world. To 20 Oct: Food: Bigger than the Plate. Positive, practical solutions to the problems that our current food system has created. Sat-Thur 10am-5.45pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 0207942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.
Wellcome Trust’s public venue housing hundreds of artefacts relating to health and the body. From 5 Sep: Being Human. This new gallery space examines what it means to be human, exploring genetics, mental health, disease and the effects of climate change. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-9pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.
The Wallace Collection
Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tour
The former Wallace family home displays their beautiful collection of Rococo art, sculpture, furniture and suits of armour. Paintings include Fragonard’s 18th-century masterpiece The Swing, plus Frank Hals’ Laughing Cavalier. Free tours on selected dates. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.
At the venue of the famous Championships, the museum’s displays range from old trophies and rackets to famous tennis kits worn by recent champions, plus tours of Centre Court. Museum daily 10am-5.30pm. Museum: adult £13; child £8. Museum & tour: adult £25; child £15. One free child with every adult ticket. www.wimbledon.com. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a short walk.
World Rugby Museum
Located in Twickenham Stadium with more than 38,000 exhibits, including items from Welsh national teams and the 1924 New Zealand side. Tue-Sat & selected bank hols 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm; no tours 11 Sep. Museum adult £12.50, child £7.50; museum and stadium tour adult £25, child £15. www.worldrugbymuseum.com. Twickenham Stadium, Whitton Rd, Twickenham, TW2 7BA. T: 020-8892 8877. Off map. Station: Twickenham.
GALLERIES Guildhall Art Gallery
Life is a bit random: your day might begin beautifully with a peaceful morning coffee in St James’s Park, or you might just get chased out of there by an aggressive goose. The same rule applies to London architecture: some buildings made it on to these streets, while other blueprints went in the bin. The London That Never Was at Guildhall Art Gallery (from 6 Sep) presents London structures that never left the page, following a deep dive into the London Metropolitan Archives. See the 1829 plans for a massive, pyramid-shaped mass grave on Primrose Hill, which would have been only 18m shorter than The Shard.
Paintings collected by the City of London since the 17th century, including pre-Raphaelite masterpieces. It also houses the Roman Amphitheatre, which was discovered in 1988 (free entry with gallery ticket). To 1 Dec: Architecture of London. A look at the city’s ever-evolving landscape. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Free, 45-minute gallery tours every Tue, Fri & Sat afternoon. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.
PLEASE BE SEATED BY PAUL COCKSEDGE COURTESY OF LONDON DESIGN MUSEUM; HORACE JONES’ DESIGN FOR A BASCULE TOWER BRIDGE © LONDON METROPOLITAN ARCHIVES (CITY OF LONDON)
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with regular guided tours, talks and workshops. To 29 Sep: Bartolomé Bermejo: Master of the Spanish Renaissance. Known as a genius of the 1400s, Bermejo’s fine skill is celebrated in this free exhibition. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.national gallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.
National Portrait Gallery
Leighton House Museum
One of the nation’s most prominent galleries, M more than 150 years old, includes works depicting Y famous British people in paintings and drawings. To 15 Sep: Cindy Sherman. Known CM for playing with the space between appearance MY and true identity, this contemporary photographer presents around 150 works. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; CY Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place,CMY WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: K Leicester Square.
The Queen’s Gallery Smart gallery adjoining Buckingham Palace. To 13 Oct: Leonardo da Vinci: A Life in Drawing.
To mark the 500th anniversary of his death, this exhibition displays more than 200 da Vinci drawings. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £13.50; child £6.70. www.rct.uk/queensgallerylondon. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Victoria.
Royal Academy of Arts Attractive 18th-century building with Royal Academy Collection works in all media. In 2018 the site completed its redevelopment project, providing space for more free art and educational areas. From 21 Sep: Antony Gormley. Monumental installations and sculpture from one of Britain’s most prominent contemporary sculptors (p. 38). Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-10pm; check for regular special events. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, W1J 0BD. T: 020-7300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.
VISIT A PRIVATE PALACE OF ART
12 Holland Park Road, W14 8LZ | Closed Tuesdays | leightonhouse.co.uk
Southbank Centre This sprawling arts centre is home to the Royal Festival Hall, Queen Elizabeth Hall and the newly renovated Hayward Gallery and Purcell Room. 13-15 Sep: Africa Utopia. This centre-wide festival celebrates Africa and its diaspora through talks, poetry, a fashion show, digital installations, a market and more (p. 22). Check for full programme, times and ticket prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Tate Britain The nation’s leading collection of British art. From 11 Sep: William Blake. Enter the world of this esteemed English painter, printmaker and poet (p. 36). Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Tate Modern See world-class, international modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station. To 27 Oct: Takis. This Greek artist has spent 70 years engaging with electromagnetism through his art, presented here as a ‘forest’ of sculptures. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark. www.wheretraveler.com 41
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ENTERTAINMENT ‘We’ve stayed true to the era of the ’80s. For many it will be a journey of reminiscence’
Big the Musical
BIG THE MUSICAL © ALASTAIR MUIR
he West End premiere of Big the Musical at the Dominion Theatre will no doubt make a big impression on adults and kids alike (from 6 Sep; p. 44). The new production is based on the 1988 comedy which starred Tom Hanks as Josh, a 12-year-old boy who wants to be big so he can ride roller coasters and date an older girl. Director Morgan Young says: ‘When I was a child, I wished I was grown up. Like Josh, all kids wish they were old enough to go to a funfair or the pictures without their parents.’ When a funfair machine grants Josh’s wish, he’s left trapped in an adult’s body. Rejected by his mum, he lands a job at a toy company, where his knowledge and enthusiasm impress his boss and colleagues.
a master of magical theatrical props such as the chandelier from The Phantom of the Opera and the car in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. ‘We have stayed true to the era of the ’80s. The stage production has a cast of familiar For many it will be a journey of reminiscence faces. Jay McGuiness from the boy band back to Silly String – remember that from The Wanted – who has also performed on a can? As well as spacehoppers, Chopper TV’s Strictly Come Dancing and the West End’s bikes and Barbies!’ Rip It Up: The 60s – takes the lead. Meanwhile, The stage production features an original Wendi Peters (TV’s Coronation Street, Bad score. Young says: ‘The joy of experiencing Girls) plays Josh’s mother and Girls Aloud’s the story with music and dance live in Kimberley Walsh plays his girlfriend Susan. a theatre gives it an extra thrill.’ As well as Josh’s boss is played by Matthew Kelly, who the new numbers, expect songs from the is best known for presenting TV’s Stars in Their ’80s Broadway musical Baby and thrillers Eyes but is also an Olivier Award-winning actor such as All the President’s Men and The who’s performed at Shakespeare’s Globe. Taking of Pelham 1-2-3. Young adds: ‘The story follows the film closely, including the scene of Josh playing on piano keys on the floor – which is one of SARAH RICHES the most iconic scenes in movie history. The Entertainment Editor keyboard was designed by Howard Eaton,
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If winning the lottery seems like a distant dream, you can still be a millionaire for the night at The Wolf of Wall Street , a new immersive production which is held in a secret four-storey location (from 5 Sep; p. 50). The event is based on Martin Scorsese’s 2013 dark comedy of the same name, which stars Leonardo DiCaprio as real-life Jordan Belfort, a corrupt stockbroker who founded his own company in ’90s New York. You might be on holiday, but dress for a business meeting and you’ll fit right into Belfort’s world of greed, power and excess – but as you’re quaffing Champagne from the (card-only) bar, or watching magic and circus shows, you’d better be watching over your shoulder for the FBI.
A Brutally Honest Evening with Mel B 1 Sep: Mel B from the Spice Girls talks about her
life. 7pm. Tickets from £30. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Big the Musical From 6 Sep: Musical about a boy whose wish to be grown-up is granted; it’s based on the 1988 film (p. 42). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm (17 Sep 7pm). Tickets from £29.50. www.neder lander.co.uk/dominion-theatre. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Fame the Musical From 11 Sep: Fun musical about a group
of young students hoping to make it big while training at a New York performing arts academy. It’s based on the hit 1980 film of the same name, featuring the titular song, and stars Mica Paris, Keith Jack and Jorgie Porter. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 2pm & 7pm. Tickets £18-£65. www.sadlerswells.com. The Peacock, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. D8. Station: Holborn/Covent Garden.
This controversial satire, from the writers of TV’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Check for times. Tickets £29.75-£100. www.book ofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.
This feel-good musical is set on a council estate in Sheffield, northern England, and tells the story of 16-year-old Jamie and how he overcomes bullies and prejudice. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£85. www.everybodystalkingabout jamie.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. D7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.
Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat To 8 Sep: Sheridan Smith and Jason Donovan star in this hit musical, which has classic tunes written and composed by Sir Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber. Check for times. Tickets £20-£150. www.really usefultheatres.co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Come from Away
Everybody’s Talking about Jamie
To 28 Sep: Old traditions and young love collide in this Broadway musical, which is set in a close-knit community. It follows Tevye’s daughters as their unexpected choices of husbands opens his heart to new possibilities. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£125. www.atgtickets.com. Playhouse Theatre, Northumberland Ave, WC2N 5DE. T: 0844-871 7631. E8. Station: Embankment.
Set in the late 1700s, this hip-hop musical has been a multi-award-winning hit on Broadway. It’s based on Ron Chernow’s biography of the USA’s founding father, Alexander Hamilton, a poor, orphaned immigrant born in the Caribbean. Please check for times and prices. www.hamiltonthemusical.co.uk. Victoria Palace Theatre, Victoria St, SW1E 5EA. T: 0844-482 5138. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Book of Mormon
An upbeat musical with catchy tunes about how a tight-knit community on a Canadian island rallied round to host 7,000 stranded passengers in the wake of the US terrorist attacks on September 11. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24£108. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
Fiddler on the Roof
CLAIM TO FAME Fame the Musical, about students at a performing arts school in New York, is coming to The Peacock (from 11 Sep). Watch it and you’ll be Dancin’ on the Sidewalk back to your hotel. www.peacocktheatre.com
Michael Ball, Alfie Boe and Matt Lucas star in this temporary staging of the legendary musical, featuring the show’s well-known songs. Check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 6AR. T: 0344-482 5138. D8. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the Disney film with ingenious costumes and puppetry. Check for times. Tickets £23-£200.25. www.thelionking.co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73
THE WOLF OF WALL STREET © MICHAEL WHARLEY/DESIGN BY REBECCA PITT; FAME THE MUSICAL COURTESY OF THE PEACOCK
MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES
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LYRICS BY HERBERT KRETZMER MICHAEL
BALL • BOE • LUCAS • FLETCHER LEAD A CAST AND ORCHESTRA OF OVER 65
FOR 16 WEEKS ONLY AT THE GIELGUD THEATRE CHECK DAILY FOR RETURNS & PREMIUM SEATS
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ENTERTAINMENT Mamma Mia! The Musical A tribute to the hits of Swedish supergroup ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. MonSat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.25-£127.25. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Please check for times. Tickets £20-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
9 to 5 The Musical
A comical musical based on the hit British sitcom that ran throughout the ‘80s and ‘90s. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £16.80-£175. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Olivier Award-winning company Mischief Theatre – the team behind The Play That Goes oes Wrong and The Comedy about a Bank Robbery – is staging a new production, Groan Ups, at the Vaudeville Theatre (from 20 Sep; p. 48) – marking the start of a year-long residency. The new comedy follows a class of six-year-olds as they become mischievous teenagers before hitting adulthood. If it’s anything like The Play That Goes Wrong – which has silly, playful and fast-paced slapstick humour that has audiences laughing out loud – then I’m sure Groan Ups will be a hit.
The Phantom of the Opera
Tina – The Tina Turner Musical
Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Check for times. Tickets £25-£175. www.thephantomofthe opera.com. Her Majesty’s, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Musical based on the life of Anna Mae Bullock, a farmgirl from Tennessee who went on to become superstar singer Tina Turner. Expect hits including the 1984 hit What’s Love Got to Do with It? – which won four Grammy Awards – as well as River Deep – Mountain High, A Fool in Love and, of course, The Best. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£159.50. www.tinathemusical.com. Aldwych Theatre, 9 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.
Queen of the Mist Musical based on the true story of Anna Edson Taylor, who on her 63rd birthday in 1901 set out to be the first person to survive a trip over Niagara Falls in a barrel she designed. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£32. www.charingcrosstheatre.co.uk. Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and it’s a smash here, too. Check for times. Tickets £15-£150. www.school ofrockthemusical.com. Gillian Lynne Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
The Secret Diary of Adrian Mole Aged 13¾ – The Musical
CHILD’S PLAY Young ballet fans will feel inspired by the National Youth Ballet’s Wonderlands at Sadler’s Wells (1 Sep), a series of new works by up-and-coming choreographers. Look out for London’s future rising stars, too. www.sadlerswells.com
A timeless tale of teenage angst, family struggles and unrequited love, told through the eyes of tortured poet and misunderstood intellectual Adrian Mole – a hapless, comical, spotty teenager who captured the zeitgeist of 1980s Britain: it’s based on the best-selling novel of the same name by Sue Townsend. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets from £15. www.theambassadorstheatre. co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
Thriller Live Songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Check for times and prices. www.thriller live.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Waitress Jenna is a waitress and expert pie-maker, but she dreams of finding a way out of her small town and rocky marriage. When a baking contest in a nearby county – and a run-in with someone new – give Jenna a chance at a fresh start, she must find the courage to seize it. Starring former Pussycat Doll Ashley Roberts and Blake Harrison from TV’s The Inbetweeners. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£150. www.waitressthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Wicked The brilliant backstory of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£202.75. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.
PLAYS A Very Expensive Poison This world premiere is based on a book by Luke Harding. It shines a spotlight on the death of the former Federal Security Service officer Alexander Litvinenko. Suitable for over-12s. Please check for times. Ticket £12-£65. www.oldvictheatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.
GROAN UPS COURTESY OF VAUDEVILLE THEATRE; WONDERLANDS COURTESY OF SADLER’S WELLS
Only Fools and Horses: The Musical
Dolly Parton musical about women who seek revenge on their sexist boss, starring Caroline Sheen, Amber Davies, Natalie McQueen, Bonnie Langford and Brian Conley. You’ll head back to your hotel singing the theme tune. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£125. www.9to5the musical.co.uk. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844-871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
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★★★★★ D A I LY T E L E G R A P H
★★★★★ THE SUN
★★★★★ D A I LY E X P R E S S
★★★★★ D A I LY M A I L
THERE IS ONLY ONE
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To 21 Sep: This new play by David Mamet stars John Malkovich. It follows a bloated Hollywood mogul who falls from grace in the public eye. Sound familiar? Mon-Sat, please check for times and prices. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.
Blood Wedding From 19 Sep: A tragedy written in 1932, just as the Spanish civil war was looming. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£40. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.
The Comedy about a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Check for times. Tickets £10-£73.75. www.thecomedyaboutabank robbery.com. Criterion, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Fleabag To 14 Sep: British hero Phoebe Waller-Bridge is behind this comical show, which went from stage to screen and back. Most tickets are sold out, so call for returns. Check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Groan Ups From 20 Sep: Comedy about growing up (p. 46). Suitable for over-13s. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Please check for prices. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.
Hansard Simon Godwin directs Simon Woods’ witty and devastating portrait of the governing class. Olivier Award winners Lindsay Duncan and Alex Jennings star. Check for times and prices. www.national theatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child
TV stars will be treading the boards in The Man in the White Suit at Wyndham’s Theatre (from 26 Sep). The show is based on a 1951 dark Ealing comedy about Sidney Stratton, a chemist who creates a fabric that never gets dirty or wears out. Everyone’s impressed – until the manufacturers realise the dire consequences: that it will threaten jobs. Stephen Mangan (Episodes, Green Wing) plays Sidney, Kara Tointon (EastEnders, Mr Selfridge) stars as Daphne, a mill owner’s daughter who champions Sidney, while the Bafta-nominee Sue Johnston (Brookside, Downton Abbey) is Sidney’s landlady, Mrs Watson. The play is directed by the Olivier Award winner Sean Foley.
The Secret River
A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Please check for times and prices. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
To 7 Sep: A moving journey into Australia’s dark history, adapted from Kate Grenville’s novel. William Thornhill, a convict from the slums of London, arrives in New South Wales. Upon earning his pardon he discovers that this new world offers something he didn’t dare dream of: a place to call his own. But as he plants a crop and lays claim to the soil on the banks of the Hawkesbury River, he finds that this land is not his to take: its ancient custodians are the Dharug people. Please check for times. Tickets £15-£89. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
Mythos a Trilogy: Gods. Heroes. Men. 13 & 17 Sep: Actor, comedian and storyteller Stephen Fry has written this trilogy of plays about Greek gods, love, war, debauchery and revenge. Part of a UK tour. 7.30pm. Tickets £56.50-£99.50. www.london-palladium.co.uk. London Palladium, Argyll St, W1F 7TF. T: 0844-412 2704. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
The Night of the Iguana To 28 Sep: Clive Owen, Lia Williams and Breaking Bad’s Anna Gunn star in Tennessee Williams’ play, which is set in 1940. A group of lost souls collide on a dilapidated hotel verandah in a rainforest in Mexico: a defrocked priest turned tourist guide, a grieving widow who runs the hotel, a family of jubilant Nazis and an itinerant portrait artist with her 97-year-old poet grandfather. The result is a battle between flesh and spirit, captivity and freedom, art and faith, heightened by a storm. Suitable for over-10s. Please check for times and prices. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
The long-awaited parts I and II Peter Gynt of the adaptation of JK Rowling’s new Peter Gynt has always set his heart story has already won many awards. on being special, on being a unique Father-of-three Harry now works for individual, on being unlike anyone the Ministry of Magic, but his Charles Kean’s 1856 else. When he steals the bride from youngest son grapples with the London version of a local wedding, he sets off on a legacy he never really wanted. Most A Midsummer Night’s journey that will take him to Florida, tickets sold out; check for returns and Dream had 90 sprites to Egypt, to a mountain of trolls and times. www.harrypottertheplay.com. wearing tutus finally back to his home in Scotland. Palace Theatre, 113 Shaftesbury Ave, Check for times and prices. www.national W1D 5AY. T: 0300-333 4813. D7. Station: theatre.org.uk. National Theatre, SE1 9PX. Leicester Square. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.
DID YOU KNOW?
The Man in the White Suit
From 26 Sep: Stephen Mangan, Kara Tointon and Sue Johnston (to 23 Nov) star in this comedy about a man who invents a fabric that never gets dirty. Check for times. Tickets £17.50-£90. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Weatherman To 14 Sep: Beezer and O’Rourke live on the fringes of society in a dingy London flat, struggling to make ends meet. Despite living life at the bottom of the heap, the savage banter of their dysfunctional friendship keeps the pair afloat. When their dodgy landlord, Dollar, makes them a ‘business’ proposition, O’Rourke finds himself selling out for the cost of a few months’ rent. The price? Take care of a mystery special package. Just for a few months. Easy job. Easy money. As the weight of a heavy conscience becomes too much to bear, the outlook for tomorrow becomes increasingly dark, with a storm brewing on the horizon. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £18.50-£23.50. www.parktheatre.co.uk. Park Theatre, Clifton Terrace, N4 3JP. T: 020-7870 6876. Off map. Station: Finsbury Park.
Witness for the Prosecution This show is based on Agatha Christie’s gripping courtroom drama, Witness for the Prosecution, and is staged in a former courtroom. Please check for times. Tickets from £10-£79.50. www.witness countyhall.com. County Hall, Belvedere Rd, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0844-815 7141. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.
The Play That Goes Wrong
The Woman in Black
Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£72. www.theplaythat goeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
A spooky story adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Check for times. Tickets £21.50-£52. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
THE MAN IN THE WHITE SUIT © NOBBY CLARK
Appropriate The Lafayette family gather at their late father’s home in Arkansas to bury the hatchet and prepare the former plantation for its estate sale – until they make a discovery that changes everything. Check for times and prices. www.donmarwarehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
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The Crystal Maze LIVE Experience Retro, interactive experience based on a fun TV show. Participants work in groups to solve mental and physical puzzles against the clock, aiming to build up time for the ultimate challenge in the Dome. Check for times and prices. www.the-crystalmaze.com. 22-32 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EJ. T: 0161-791 0727. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience To 29 Sep: Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the sitcom. Tickets include a three-course meal. Check for times. Tickets £75-£80. www.faultytowers-uk.com. Radisson Blu Edwardian, 9-13 Bloomsbury St, WC1B 3QD. T: 0845-154 4145. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
MAMMA MIA! The Party From 1 Sep: If you love ABBA, then you’ll love
this: actors in costume perform all your favourite songs around you, while you dine on Mediterranean dishes in a Greek taverna. Please check for times. Tickets from £151.20. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Secret Cinema To 22 Sep: Casino Royale.
Spectacular immersive experience based on the James Bond film starring Daniel Craig. Dress up! Please check for prices. An email with information about the location is sent to you after you have booked. www.secretcinema.org.
Jeff Wayne’s The War of the Worlds: The Immersive Experience Experience the Martian invasion from HG Wells’ 1898 science-fiction novel The War of the Worlds, which was reinvented as a musical by Jeff Wayne. In groups of 12, you’ll be guided by live and virtual actors as you walk, crawl and slide through scenes of Victorians sipping tea at home, while Martians roam outside and a Martian Fighting Machine rises above them. Thanks to virtual-reality headsets and holograms, the experience will seem real. Please check for times and prices. www.dotdot.london. Old Metal Exchange, 56 Leadenhall St, EC3A 2BJ. D11. Station: Aldgate.
The Wolf of Wall Street From 5 Sep: Dress up and enter the world of Jordan Belfort, the real-life stock market millionaire whose life became a book, a film and now an immersive experience in a secret location (p. 44). Details are revealed by email once you’ve paid. Tickets £59.95. www.immersivewolf.com/event/ the-wolf-of-wall-street.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS BBC Proms To 14 Sep: Annual celebration of classical music which caters to all budgets and tastes. In recent years other genres and venues have been included in the programme. The grand finale is held in the Royal Albert Hall. Please check for times and prices. www.bbc.co.uk/proms. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 0207589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.
DID YOU KNOW? The Mousetrap is the longest-running play in London – it’s been on stage for more than 66 years
The Luna Cinema To 29 Sep: This annual summer festival of outdoor film screens classic films and blockbusters under the stars at iconic venues around London and the UK. Check for times and prices. www.thelunacinema.com. T: 0844-858 6767.
Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre To 21 Sep: Every summer you can watch shows under the stars. This month you can watch Evita, with music by Andrew Lloyd Webber. Please check for times and prices. www.openairtheatre.com. Inner Circle, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NU. T: 0844-826 4242. C6. Station: Baker Street/Regent’s Park.
Underbelly Festival To 29 Sep: Comedy, circus, cabaret and family shows, plus one of London’s biggest outdoor bars. Please check for times and prices. www.underbellyfestival.com. Belvedere Road Coach Park, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.
THE MOUSETRAP © ISTOCK
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DANCE Royal Opera House 12-14 Sep: Astana Ballet. Check for times and
prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
In the heart of Leicester Square
7 Sep: Open Art Surgery. Works by hip-hop group Breakin’ Convention. Check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Rosebery Ave, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.
OPERA Royal Opera House From 13 Sep: Don Giovanni. Kasper Holten’s striking production accentuates the beauty of Mozart’s tragicomedy. Please check for times and prices. www.roh.org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Royal Albert Hall 21-23 Sep: Star Wars: The Empire Strikes Back in Concert. 7.30pm. Check for prices. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. Station: South Kensington.
St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp.org.uk. 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 0207381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Last minute & discount theatre tickets
St Martin-in-the-Fields Church Programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals. www.smitf.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD The Jazz Café This live music venue and club specialises in jazz and funk. 17 Sep: Dizraeli. 24 Sep: Duckwrth. Check for times and prices. www.thejazzcafe london.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
The O2 Huge venue for live music. 14-15 Sep: Muse. 17-18 Sep: Khalid. Check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 2-7 Sep: Georgie Fame and the Blue Flames. 25-29 Sep: Stacey Kent. Please check for times and prices. www.ronnie scotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
CHILDREN & FAMILIES Anansi the Spider From 18 Sep: West African and Caribbean tales about a spider. Adult £10-£20; child £10£14. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. Off map. Station: London Bridge.
The Dong with a Luminous Nose From 14 Sep: Puppet show. Check for times. Adult £14; child £12. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.
A subterranean speakeasy in the heart of Soho with live music and world renowned DJs
JACKSOLOMONS.COM INFO@JACKSOLOMONS.COM 41 GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W1D 7NB
BOOK NOW THROUGH YOUR CONCIERGE www.wheretraveler.com 51
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SHOPPING MAJOR SHOPPING AREAS Bond Street Home to designer boutiques, antiques, art and jewellery, plus auction houses Sotheby’s and Bonhams. D6/E6/E7. Station: Bond Street.
Carnaby Here you can find sports-inspired stores as well as edgy designers. D7/E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Covent Garden This former fruit and vegetable market is now a popular covered centre for arts, crafts and souvenir stalls. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Hatton Garden This hidden historic corner of London is home to the jewellery trade. C9/D9. Station: Farringdon.
King’s Road This iconic street attracts a polished crowd; look out for the quirky shops at World’s End. Duke of York Square bustles with restaurants, clothes shops and a food market. G4. Station: Sloane Square.
Oxford Street Europe’s busiest shopping street has department stores, plus major high-street chains. D6/D7. Station: Oxford Circus/Bond Street/Marble Arch.
One of London’s most famous areas for men’s tailoring, especially suits. Famous stores include Gieves & Hawkes, Hardy Amies and Richard James. E7. Station: Green Park.
Browse magnificent Edwardian food and meat halls and a range of fashion and cosmetics, then stay for afternoon tea. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Seven Dials In the heart of Covent Garden are seven streets of boutiques, heritage brands and vintage stores. www.sevendials.co.uk. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
John Lewis & Partners
Find fashion labels, homeware and electricals. Please check for times. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX (and branches). T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Fortnum & Mason
Established in 1707, this British institution is famed for its food hall, which sells fudge, macarons, tea and more. There is also an afternoon tea lounge. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845-300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Famous for its prints and haberdashery department. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Hamleys Huge toy shop spread over seven floors, with high-tech and retro toys. It also has children’s entertainers and demonstrations of toys and games. Please check for times. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Marks & Spencer Reliable source for clothes, lingerie and food. Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksand spencer.com (multiple locations). 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.
Selfridges This is the largest shop on Oxford Street: visit the department store for the finest products in beauty and fashion. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.
LUXURY ARCADES Burlington Arcade Running from Burlington Gardens to Piccadilly, this Regency arcade is home to high-end specialist shops. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 9am-6.30pm; Sun 11am-5pm. www.burlington-arcade.co.uk. Burlington Arcade, W1J 0QJ. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Leadenhall Market A beautiful Victorian covered market in the City. Mon-Fri 11am-5pm. www.leadenhallmarket.co.uk. Gracechurch St, EC3V 1LR. D11. Station: Monument.
FASHION Alexander McQueen
The digital revolution
When you hear the name Microsoft, you probably think of desktop computers. But at its first store in Europe, located in Oxford Circus, you’ll find there’s more to the brand than you might have thought. Take the McLaren Senna Hypercar that greets you at the front of the store, in which you can sit and play Forza Motorsport 7. Covering three floors, there is also a gaming lounge with the latest Xbox and PC games, and a help desk for any technical difficulties. Microsoft products can be repaired and free services range from software support to virus removal. 253-259 Regent St, W1B 2ER. T: 020-7660 0308. www.microsoft.com
Find a classic trench coat for men, women or children by this British label, which also has a monogramming service. www.burberry.com. 121 Regent St, W1B 4TB (and branches). T: 020-7806 8904. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Chanel Exuding style and class in all of its designs and products, fashion-forward shoppers can browse accessories, clothing and bags. www.chanel.com. 158-159 New Bond St, W1S 7UB (and branches). T: 020-7493 5040. E6. Station: Green Park.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (C4 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73 52
IMAGE COURTESY OF MICROSOFT
Flagship fashion boutique with clothes, bags and shoes. www.alexandermcqueen.co.uk. 4-5 Old Bond St, W1S 4PD. T: 020-7355 0088. E7. Station: Green Park.
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SHOPPING Jasper Conran
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ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL
‘ Who knows what might be unveiled in a city that is famous for its creativity?’
roving that London leads the way when it comes to fashion, London Fashion Week will be open to the public for the first time. The Big Four fashion weeks – London, New York, Milan and Paris – are usually for trade only but this September, you too can experience the thrill of a fashion show. Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith and Burberry are just some of the names that can be found at London Fashion Week. Who knows what might be unveiled in a city that is famous for its creativity? London gave birth to wardrobe wonders that are popular all over the world: the top hat, tuxedo, trench coat and mini skirt.
Caroline Rush, the Queen and Anna Wintour at London Fashion Week
While trade will attend scheduled catwalks (13-17 Sep), the public can buy tickets to London Fashion Week Hub (14-15 Sep). The new scheme helps make what can often feel like an exclusive club more accessible. There are six runway shows you can attend, but the designers have yet to be announced. You can also listen to talks by industry experts, discover installations where fashion meets art and learn about sustainable, ethical clothing. The VIP café, meanwhile, will serve complimentary food and drink. Last year, fashion royalty and actual royalty united, as the Queen sat on the front row next to American Vogue editor Anna Wintour.
They watched a fashion show by British designer Richard Quinn, who the Queen later went on to present with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award, which recognises an emerging British designer. The front row always attracts famous faces, from Kate Moss and Andrew Garfield to the Beckham family. Now all you have to think about is what to wear. www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
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The new Tom Ford beauty shop is a haven for make-up lovers. Last month saw the launch of the Tom Ford Boys & Girls III Collection: the lipsticks are named after the men and women Ford finds inspiring. Each lipstick is £31. 3 The Market Building, WC2E 8RA. T: 0370-192 5902. www.tomfordbeauty.co.uk
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If you’re a foodie, head to Carnaby. Carnaby Eats, a month-long food festival, is taking place and includes masterclasses with chefs and cocktail lessons. The area is home to more than 40 restaurants, from Darjeeling Express to Señor Ceviche. Happy eating! www.carnaby.co.uk
Liberty H&M Home Clarks
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This store is for shoppers who hanker after the classic British gentleman-at-leisure look. www.hackett.com. 193-197 Regent St, W1B 4LY (multiple locations). T: 020-7494 4917. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Outlet for traditional food and ingredients from Japan. www.japancentre.com. 35b Panton St, SW1Y 4EA. T: 020-3405 1246. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Hugo Boss Sleek and stylish collection of high-end clothing for men and women, including evening, leisure and sportswear plus accessories (multiple locations around London). www.hugoboss.com. The Willett Building, 35-38 Sloane Square, SW1W 8DL. T: 0207259 1240. G6. Station: Sloane Square.
MALLS & FACTORY OUTLETS ICON Outlet New venue for fashion and lifestyle shopping, with restaurants and bars, plus personal shopping. Please check for times. www.iconattheo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.
London Designer Outlet Mall with around 70 high-street retailers offering reductions of up to 70 per cent. Check for times. www.londondesigneroutlet.com. Wembley Park Boulevard, HA9 0RX. T: 020-8912 5210. Off map. Station: Wembley Stadium/Wembley Central.
Westfield London This huge shopping centre has high-street names and luxury brands, plus KidZania. www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.
Westfield Stratford City This huge mall has 270 shops, a cinema, casino, bars, restaurants and outdoor spaces. www.westfield.com/ stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.
London Glassblowing Pick up a souvenir at this gallery and shop. You can take part in a glassblowing class, too. www.london glassblowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.
The Noble Collection Explore licensed, finely crafted treasures from Fantastic Beasts, Harry Potter, Game of Thrones and The Lord of the Rings. Find gifts, collectibles, prop
replicas and jewellery. www.noblecollection.co.uk. 26-28 Neal St, WC2H 9QQ. T: 020-3795 6298. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Red Bus Shop This souvenir shop stocks London-related products. Look out for the Harry Potter range. www.redbusshop. co.uk. 59-61 York Rd, SE1 7NJ (and branches). T: 020-7401 7033. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Twinings Trading since 1706, this historic shop stocks a huge variety of teas, infusions and teapots. Daily, check for times. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.
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JEWELLERY & WATCHES David Morris This esteemed British jewellery brand sells beautiful couture designs, hand-crafted using fine stones. www.davidmorris.com. 180 New Bond St, W1S 4RL. T: 020-7499 2200. E7. Station: Green Park.
Links of London Find jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.
Pandora Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD (and branches). T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
KIDS’ STORES LEGO Store Outstanding collection of LEGO merchandise of all varieties, plus a ‘Pick and Build’ wall. www.lego.com/en-gb/stores. 3 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7839 3480. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
SPECIALIST STORES Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.
Wembley Park Wembley Stadium HA9 0RX www.LondonDesignerOutlet.com Savings off RRP Available at most LDO outlet stores. T&C apply.
LONDON DESIGNER OUTLET WEMBLEY PARK
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Radio Rooftop Bar
‘ Eke out the warm weather by dining on a terrace beside the water ’
eptember is one of my favourite months and (usually!) it’s warmer than most people anticipate. So why not eke out the warm weather by dining on a terrace? For canalside views, drop by Parrillan, a new bar and grill in Coal Drops Yard that overlooks Regent’s Canal. Angel Zapata Martin – the talent behind Michelin-starred favourite Barrafina – is executive chef, so expect authentic Spanish tapas. Our reviewer enjoyed pan con tomate, which he made himself by adding olive oil, garlic and tomatoes to sourdough toast. That’s the USP of Parrillan – which takes its name from the Spanish word for grill – as
diners cook seasoned meat, seafood and vegetables on their own table-top charcoal grill, or parrilla. You needn’t worry about setting off the fire alarm though, as you’ll be seated on an outdoor terrace, which is partially covered by a heated woodenand-glass pergola and surrounded by potted plants (www.coaldropsyard.com). If you’d rather dine on a terrace by the Thames, then hop on a Thames Clipper to visit Fiume next to Battersea Power Station, which is named after the Italian word for river. Designed by the team behind Hawksmoor and Dishoom, the terrace features olive and lemon trees, lavender in terracotta pots and
fairylit awnings. On my visit, blankets kept me warm when the sun went in. Options include brunch and Sunday roasts, though I recommend the burrata and pesto lasagne (www.fiume-restaurant.co.uk). You can also see the river from Radio Rooftop Bar, on the 10th floor of ME London hotel on the Strand – but that’s not all. Visit to tick off key sights such as St Paul’s Cathedral, Coca-Cola London Eye, Tate Modern and The Shard. Order Indian or Mexican-themed sharing platters and tapas including gin and blackberry salmon (www.radiorooftop.com).
SARAH RICHES Dining Editor
RADIO ROOFTOP BAR © FRANCISCO GUERRERO; PARRILLAN © GREG FUNNELL; FIUME © JEAN CAZALS
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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade (Entrance via Lowndes St) Belgravia, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: email@example.com Private dining room seats 14
The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in Londonâ€™s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week; weekend brunch with live music. 73 St Jamesâ€™s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: firstname.lastname@example.org Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16
Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world has a Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: email@example.com Private dining room seats 24
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There are certain restaurants that make your friends feel envious when you say you are dining there, and Bob Bob Cité is one of them. The sister restaurant to Soho’s Bob Bob Ricard has opened in The Leadenhall Building, affectionately known as ‘the Cheesegrater’. I’d been wanting to visit the building for a long time, so it’s a thrill that the public now can – whizz up in the glass lifts and into Orient-Express-inspired interiors. The venue is more business-like than its counterpart – there were plenty of suits and plug sockets at the tables – but it’s still all about glamour, especially with the famous ‘Push for Champagne’ buttons. Mixing French and Russian cuisine, try the parsley snails and truffled potato and mushroom dumplings. Bob Bob Cité pushes all the right buttons. Level 3, 122 Leadenhall St, EC3V 4AB. T: 020-3928 6600. www.bobbobcite.com
KOHINOOR SAHOTA Managing Editor
Goodman Premium New York steakhouse with US and British beef, dry-aged and hand-cut in-house, plus dishes including roasted poussin. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D (and branches). www.goodmanrestaurants.com. 24-26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Hard Rock Cafe Piccadilly Circus London’s legendary burger bar has rock memorabilia and a fun atmosphere. Its extensive menu also includes jumbo wings, nachos and ribs. Daily L & D. ££. Criterion Building, 225-229 Piccadilly, W1J 9HR (and branch). T: 020-7287 4600. www.hardrock.com. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Hard Rock Cafe London The original London branch, this burger bar is decorated with rock memorabilia. Save room for the apple cobbler. Daily L & D. ££. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ (and branch). T: 020-7514 1700. www.hardrock.com. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting. Children will love dining among faux foliage, with moving elephants and parrots in the trees. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforest cafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Ave, W1D 7EU. T: 0207434 3111. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This smart venue at the top of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ has great views. £££. Daily L & D. www.skygarden. london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument/Cannon Street.
BRITISH (MODERN) Aqua Shard A slick restaurant wth stunning views on The Shard’s 31st floor. Dishes might include seared halibut, stuffed globe artichoke and black truffle fries. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.
Aviary Smart restaurant with a rooftop terrace, serving hearty British dishes including Sunday roasts. £££. Daily L & D. www.aviarylondon.com. Montcalm Royal London House hotel, 22-25 Finsbury Square, EC2A 1DX. T: 020-3873 4000. C11. Station: Moorgate.
Quality steakhouse serving dry-aged USDA prime beef with various sauces and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Steaks and seafood cooked on a Josper grill, plus seafood dishes such as honey-marinated tuna steak. This luxury venue also has a terrace and bar. ££££. Daily L & D. www.caxtongrill.co.uk. 2 Caxton St, SW1H 0QW. T: 020-7227 7777. F7. Station: St James’s Park.
Hollywood-inspired dining experience with film memorabilia and an international menu specialising in classic American favourites. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planethollywood london.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Dine on level 36 of the ‘Walkie Talkie’, with amazing views. Opt for the three-course weekend brunch menu. Booking recommended. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.skygarden.london. 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument/Cannon Street.
Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the museum’s Reading Room, under its domed roof. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.
The Montagu Kitchen Wonderful hotel brasserie. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.themontagurestaurant.co.uk. Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, 30 Portman Square, W1H 7BH. T: 020-7299 2037. D5. Station: Marble Arch.
Rex Whistler Restaurant Originally opened in 1927, this arty restaurant has a mural and an award-winning wine list. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Tate Britain, Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.
Sophie’s Steakhouse Modern steakhouse with a covered terrace. ££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.com.
42-44 Great Windmill St, W1D 7ND (and branch). T: 020-7836 8836. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
St Pancras by Searcys Elegant brasserie and Champagne bar. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
VIVI All-day dining, including afternoon tea. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.vivirestaurant.co.uk. Centre Point, 11 St Giles Square, WC2H 8AP. T: 020-8812 3200. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings, online discounts and time of last entry. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73
BOB BOB CITÉ © SIM PHOTOGRAPHY
AMERICAS (NORTH & SOUTH)
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BRITISH (TRADITIONAL) Butlers Restaurant This elegant hotel restaurant is known for its Dover sole and afternoon tea. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chesterfieldmayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.
Café in the Crypt Underneath a landmark church, this brick-vaulted café serves English dishes at reasonable prices. £. Mon-Sat B, L & D; Sun 11am-6pm. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, off Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. E8. Station: Charing Cross.
Cheneston’s This wood-panelled dining room has Victorian leaded windows. Try the venison. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
The English Grill Dine under chandeliers at this hotel restaurant. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.rubenshotel.com. The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Palm Court This opulent lounge serves afternoon tea in a conservatory. ££. Check for times. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.
The Ritz Restaurant Enjoy outstanding British dishes in a beautiful room. Men must wear a jacket and tie. Booking recommended. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.the ritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E7. Station: Green Park.
AFtErNOON TEA Traditional afternoon tea served in the Royal Albert Hall. Served Tuesday - Sunday 1:00pm - 4:00pm. royalalberthall.com | 020 7589 8212
ENJOY THE THALI AT
Chai Wu This contemporary restaurant on the fifth floor of Harrods serves dishes such as Chilean sea bass. ££££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D (until 8pm). www.chaiwu. co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
REAL INDIAN FOOD
Hakkasan Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern Cantonese dishes. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat to midnight. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN 1 Lombard Street Brasserie in a Grade II-listed former bank. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.
Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred rooftop restaurant with a daily changing menu. Booking essential. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvin atwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Ting This smart restaurant in The Shard serves Asianinfluenced dishes. Stunning setting and views. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8108. F10. Station: London Bridge.
BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD
CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST
M ASA LA ZO N E .COM
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FISH AND SEAFOOD
Chic seafood restaurant loved by the rich and famous for more than a century. There is also an oyster and Champagne bar. Sit outside on a sunny evening. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey. co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
London Shell Co Dine on a five-course menu aboard a canal boat, with delicacies such as cured Dorset char with egg yolk confit. Diners share tables. £££. Wed-Fri L & D. www.londonshellco.com. Sheldon Square, W2 6EP. T: 07818-666 005. D4. Station: Paddington.
BAGLIONI HOTEL LONDON
For a taste of Italy, try a new tea made with regional Italian products in Brunello Bar and Restaurant, or on a terrace by a gelato booth. Sandwiches are filled with Sicilian swordfish and chives, and Gorgonzola cheese and walnuts, while there’s also Nutella scones, and ricotta and chocolate chip cannoli. 60 Hyde Park Gate, SW7 5BB. T: 020-7368 5700. www.baglionihotels.com
This Grade II-listed grand dining room features high ceilings, columns and elaborate plasterwork. £££. Daily B & D; Wed-Sat L. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.
The Sea Shell Celebrities such as Denzel Washington, Lady Gaga and Michael Jackson have eaten at this decades-old restaurant, which has an aquarium at the back. Daily L & D. ££. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. www.seashell restaurant.co.uk. C5. Station: Marylebone.
This five-star hotel’s tea in The Game Bird restaurant is inspired by Mayfair’s boutiques. Enjoy game rolls, truffle and egg brioche buns and scones made with Westcombe cheddar from Paxton & Whitfield, which supplies the Queen. Then tuck in to a white chocolate and lime jelly top hat, a tribute to the world’s oldest milliner, Lock & Co Hatters. 16-18 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NJ. T: 0207493 0111. www.thestaffordlondon.com
Exquisite food, attentive service and a setting to dress up for from this three-Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Booking essential. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.
Enjoy a gourmet tour of India, with traditional dishes served in a modern style. £££. Daily L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.
Gaylord This North Indian restaurant, more than 50 years old, is renowned for its thalis. ££. Daily L & D. www.gay lordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Masala Zone Vibrant restaurant serving chaat, street food, thalis and regional curries. ££. Daily L & D. www.masala zone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER (and branches). T: 020-7287 9966. D8. Station: Oxford Circus. Try one of the tasting menus in these refurbished surroundings. £££. Daily L & D. www.tamarind restaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 0207629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.
The Russian prima
Bustling French brasserie with high ceilings and marble columns. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Thali Half a rickshaw is mounted on a brick wall at this popular Indian restaurant, which won ‘Fine Dining Restaurant of the Year’ at this year’s London Curry Awards. £££. Daily L & D. www.thali. uk.com. 166 Old Brompton Rd, SW5 0BA. T: 020-7373 2626. Off map. Station: South Kensington.
ballerina Anna Pavlova Cosy, rustic bistro with danced at The Ritz in brick walls, antiques and plants. 1912, six years after Graze on cheese, charcuterie, fish it opened and meat dishes at a counter or at tables on the pavement. ££. Daily L & D. Veeraswamy www.blanchettesoho.co.uk. 9 D’Arblay St, W1F Michelin-starred restaurant with an opulent 8DR (and branch). T: 020-7439 8100. D7. Station: interior and signature dishes such as Patiala lamb Oxford Circus. shank. £££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com.
If you’ve never had afternoon tea before, then you might prefer a traditional one. So try the new best of British tea in The Green Room at this Shoreditch hotel. Start with a smoked salmon bagel and a gin and tonic cucumber sandwich, then enjoy scones with jam and clotted cream and macarons. 45 Curtain Rd, EC2A 3PT. T: 020-3146 4545.
Michelin-quality Indian, with a tasting menu and street food. It also has a cocktail lounge. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.
DID YOU KNOW?
This brasserie serves classics such as French onion soup, tuna tartare and beef bourguignon. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasserie joel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Westminster.
THE CURTAIN HOTEL
Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester
THE STAFFORD LONDON
This Michelin-starred restaurant has an open, theatrical kitchen and serves more than 30 grilled dishes and special biryanis. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. Halkin Arcade, Lowndes St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Céleste Michelin-starred hotel dining room. Try the Atlantic sea bass topped with a seaweed crust. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Clos Maggiore An exquisite dining room shrouded in flowers, with an excellent wine list and dishes such as truffle pappardella and burrata. £££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2E 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
INTERNATIONAL Bbar South African-inspired restaurant and bar – try the biltong and rib-eye steak. It has a terrace and live music (Thur-Sat). ££. Daily L & D. www.bbar london.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.
The Cavendish Choose smoked burrata and truffle oil flatbread in the formal dining room or the relaxed spot downstairs. ££-£££. Daily B, L & D. www.35new cavendish.co.uk. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. T: 020-7487 3030. D6. Station: Baker Street.
The Terrace This beautiful hotel restaurant above Charing Cross Station has a varied menu, including salads, small plates and Italian dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.amba-hotel.com. Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0800-330 8397. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Embankment.
BAGLIONI © DIEGO DE POL; THE STAFFORD COURTESY OF THE STAFFORD LONDON; THE CURTAIN © JUSTINE TRICKETT
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Stars in your eyes
It’s no secret that the sushi chef Endo Kazutoshi is gunning for a Michelin star. Previously at Zuma in Fitzrovia and El Bulli in Spain, the renowned chef has opened a restaurant in the former BBC Television Centre in White City Endo at the Rotunda is destination dining indeed: it has a minimalist, muted interior, floor-to-ceiling windows and just 16 seats. Casual it is not. Lunch is seven courses and while there is an à la carte menu with sushi, tempura, caviar tacos and crab with truffle, put your trust in Kazutoshi and opt for the 18-course signature menu. Ask your concierge to help you get a seat, as dinner must be booked at least a month ahead. Eighth floor, The Helios, Television Centre, 101 Wood Lane, W12 7FR. T: 020-3972 9000. www.endoatrotunda.com
ITALIAN Ask Italian Sit outside if the sun is shining, or indoors, as natural light streams through its conservatorystyle ceiling. It’s conveniently located opposite Paddington Station. ££. Daily L & D. www.ask italian.co.uk. 41-43 Spring St, W2 1JA (and branches). T: 020-8115 7091. D4. Station: Paddington.
Cicchetti Lively, all-day dining with regional dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and branches). T: 020-7494 9435. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
ENDO AT THE ROTUNDA © JOHN SCOTT BLACKWELL
Caffe Concerto This popular chain of cafés has recently refurbished its Kensington branch. Go for breakfast, a cream tea or Italian classics such as bruschetta, Parma ham tartine or artichoke tagliatelle. ££. Daily B, L & D. 88 Kensington High St, W8 4SG (and branches). T: 020-7494 6850. www.caffeconcerto.co.uk. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.
Sette Fans of New York’s Scarpetta will enjoy dining at this upmarket hotel restaurant. Dishes include crab tagliatelle. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.sette london.co.uk. 4 Knightsbridge Green, SW1X 7QA. T: 020-7151 1025. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
Verdi Italian Kitchen Enjoy stone-baked pizzas and afternoon tea in this Victorian music hall. ££. Tue-Sun L & D. www.verdi italian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.
Watch chefs grill dishes and throw ingredients in the air at your table at this lively venue. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 0207494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Roka Mayfair Try the tasting menu at this Japanese ’robatayaki’. £££-££££. Daily L & D. www.rokarestaurant.com. 30 North Audley St, W1K 6ZF (and branches). T: 020-7305 5644. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Sakagura Informal, izakaya-style Japanese ’pub’ with small plates of authentic dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.sakaguralondon.com. 8 Heddon St, W1B 4BS. T: 020-3405 7230. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH
See London’s sights on a river cruise and dine on British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun L with jazz. www.bateauxlondon.com. Departs from Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.
The London Showboat Enjoy lunch, afternoon tea and dinner with live jazz. £££-££££. Booking essential. www.city cruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 0207740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.
R.S. Hispaniola Moored restaurant boat on the Thames serving British cuisine. Try the seared salmon with lobster mash. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.
SOUTH EAST ASIAN
Dine on mezze, couscous and tagines under Moroccan lanterns. Following a renovation, there is now a larger terrace. £££. Daily L & D. www.momoresto.com. 25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH. T: 020-7434 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay offers Asian sharing plates and sushi from a raw bar in this dark, sexy restaurant. £££. Daily L & D. www.gordonramsay restaurants.com. 10 Grosvenor Square, W1K 6JP. T: 020-7197 0000. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Yotam Ottolenghi’s Middle Eastern-inspired food. Downstairs has communal tables while upstairs is more formal. ££-£££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE. T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This smart Thai restaurant serves dishes such as barbecue pork and coconut milk soup. £££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria/Hyde Park Corner. www.wheretraveler.com 61
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DINING Thai Pot This casual spot offers a huge menu with good-value dishes such as stir-fried beef, fish cakes and sticky rice. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thai pot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. E8. Station: Covent Garden.
SPANISH El Pirata A two-story restaurant and bar in Mayfair that has served tapas for 25 years, including suckling pig. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
Mildreds Informal Soho institution with hearty dishes such as chargrilled artichokes on crostini. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.mildreds.co.uk. 45 Lexington St, W1F 9AN. T: 020-7494 1634. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.
Woodlands A huge range of Indian dishes, from dosas to North Indian curries. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlands restaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS. T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.
A family-run café with a 195-year-old history has opened in Mayfair. Marchesi 1824 opened in Milan in 1824 and was taken over by Prada in 2014. Staff are dressed in Prada, naturally. The interior is just as classic: like the original, the London branch features marble floors, dark wooden furniture and green velvet chairs, as well as tall ceilings, arched windows and an original fireplace. The pastry counter and mirrored cabinets will lure you in but no doubt you’ll end up lingering in the pretty tearoom at the back. Order its signature dish – panettone made with Sicilian oranges – alongside espresso or thick hot chocolate, then choose some gianduja chocolates and pastel-coloured sugared almonds to take away. 117 Mount St, W1K 3LA. T: 020-8075 5380. www.pasticceriamarchesi.com
MARCHESI 1824 COURTESY OF MARCHESI 1824
VEGETARIAN & VEGAN
This restaurant serves Moorish dishes, such as charcoal-grilled monkfish. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. C9. Station: Farringdon.
The English Gri
BBAR LONDON Al fresco dining, delicious menus, private events and great cocktails. Next to The Rubens hotel, opposite Buckingham Palace
bbar Restaurant and Bar
43 Buckingham Palace Road, London, SW1W 0PP Telephone: 020 7958 7000 | bbarlondon.com
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A longstanding favourite in Mayfair, El Pirata, celebrates its 25th anniversary this year! Loyal locals and visitors love its authentic Spanish tapas menu, with favourites such as chorizo, fiery padron peppers, Jamon Iberico, and myriad types of seafood dishes such as Mediterranean prawns and calamari. It even offers a set tapas menu to make your choices easier. The ambiance here is truly magical, a mixture of Mayfair elegance with a cozy, friendly feel, plus superb service. There’s also an impressive selection of Spanish wines on the menu.
‘A Spanish gem’ – Zagat ‘with surprisingly good prices’ – Harden’s Mon – Fri: 12.00pm – 11.30pm Saturday: 6.00pm – 11.30pm 5-6 Down Street, Mayfair W1J 7AQ 020 7491 3810 | www.elpirata.co.uk
osen Carefullyprch nance with known ove
Top quality ingredients demand the simplest of cooking. That’s why we don’t mess with our choice cuts of meat and fresh fish. All we do is cook them to perfection, often on our Josper Grill. We treat our salads and sides with just the same respect, as many are influenced by fresh produce grown on our rooftop garden.
Fresh from our kitchen garden Lunch: Mon-Fri 12.00pm - 2.30pm
Dinner: Mon-Sun 6.00pm - 10.30pm
www.caxtongrill.co.uk Find us next to St. James’s Park tube station at 2 Caxton Street, London SW1H OQW 020 7227 7777
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Ronnie Scott’s Jack Solomons Club
erious jazz fans will have Ronnie Scott’s at the top of their list of venues to visit (p. 66). The basement bar opened in 1959 and celebrated its 60th anniversary earlier this summer. It moved to its current location, an intimate venue in Frith Street, Soho, in 1965. While the club attracts big names, it also nurtures new talent and hosts jam sessions, as well as DJs and musicians from other genres such as flamenco, soul, jive and blues. This month, don’t miss the 1960s rhythm and blues band, Georgie Fame and the Blue Flames (2-7 Sep). If tickets for Ronnie Scott’s are sold out, visit Jack Solomons Club in Soho instead (p. 65). Only those in the know come here, as an unused takeaway acts as a front for the club, which is hidden downstairs.
Once you ring the doorbell on Great Windmill Street, you’ll enter a world inspired by the eponymous boxing promoter, which is on the site of his former gym. The club regularly hosts musicians, including jazz singers on Friday nights. Join partygoers in their 30s and 40s – including occasional West End stars letting their hair down – on the dance floor, or sit in a dark corner to have a chat, as the music doesn’t drown out conversation. The bar specialises in whisky and gin cocktails, so order a Knock Out – Chivas Regal 12 and coffee liqueur – followed by Coffee & Cigarettes, which is made with Glenlivet Founder’s Reserve and chocolate bitters. If you’d prefer a three-course meal with drinks and jazz all in one venue, then visit
Jazz Lounge at The Wellesley
the Jazz Lounge in The Wellesley, a five-star hotel in Knightsbridge. You can also go just for drinks (minimum spend £50). The Italian restaurant is on the site of a former pizzeria where Amy Winehouse, Jamie Cullum and Barbara Cook played, and the lounge still hosts jazz bands every Friday and Saturday night. A singer, occasional trumpet player and pianist on a grand piano perform familiar tunes. With mirrors, pastel-pink furniture and pearls draped across a folding screen, this is a place to dress up for (www.marriott.co.uk).
SARAH RICHES Nightlife Editor
RONNIE SCOTT’S © BENJAMIN AMURE; COCKTAIL COURTESY OF JACK SOLOMONS CLUB; THE WELLESLEY © CHRIS TUBBS PHOTOGRAPHY
‘The club attracts big names, nurtures new talent and hosts jam sessions’
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NIGHTLIFE TRADITIONAL PUBS The Blackfriar This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened 100 years ago, offers cask ales in an old-world setting. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.
Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint of beer in this atmospheric pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1V 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.
The Dog and Duck A traditional real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as a great range of pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Flask This 17th-century pub in a pretty location is a real step back in time. It is allegedly haunted. www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.
The French House Creative, boho types love this quirky, cosy pub in the heart of Soho: there is no music and mobile phones are discouraged. Excellent Champagne and wine by the glass. Lunch menu Mon-Fri. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The George Inn This tucked-away, historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org. uk/george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.
The Glasshouse Stores This is a comforting old Sam Smith’s pub, serving its own ales, with wood-panelled walls and etched glass. There are plenty of nooks and crannies in which to hide away. Try your hand at billiards. 55 Brewer St, W1F 9UJ. T: 020-7287 5278. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
The Guinea The site of an inn since 1423, this friendly venue has great Young’s ales and bar food. www.theguinea. co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street/Oxford Circus.
GONG BAR COURTESY OF GONG BAR
The Magpie & Stump Opposite the Old Bailey, this atmospheric pub dates back to the 1500s and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. It has old fireplaces, worn rugs and exposed brick walls. It is closed at weekends. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. D9. Station: St Paul’s.
This popular Irish venue has four bars split over six levels. It has pub food, regular live music and also screens Ireland’s major sporting events. www.waxy oconnors.co.uk. 14-16 Rupert St, W1D 6DD. T: 0207287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
A timeless destination for Bellinis and other cocktails. It has an Art Deco interior and oysters on the menu. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Waxy’s Little Sister
City Garden Bar
A smaller sister venue to Waxy O’Connor’s, serving traditional Irish beers and whiskies, plus bar food. www.waxyoconnors.co.uk. 20 Wardour St, W1D 6QG. T: 020-7287 0255. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
This impressive venue, beside the roof terrace of the ‘Walkie Talkie’ building, has amazing views, a garden and free entry. www.skygarden.london. Sky Garden, 20 Fenchurch St, EC3M 8AF. T: 0333-772 0020. E11. Station: Monument.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
This Grade II-listed pub was built soon after the Great Fire of 1666 and has vaults that are even older. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.
BARS & CLUBS 68 and Boston Sophisticated venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. There are wines from unusual destinations including Uruguay, with bottles from just £20. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.
The Back Room Located next to the Hard Rock Cafe, this fun bar displays vintage and iconic music items. Enjoy cocktails, pizzas and burgers, plus a great vibe. www.hardrock.com. 148b Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Green Park.
Booking Office Bar The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls, dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Burlock Rum is the spirit of choice in this relaxed, Cuban-style bar. www.burlocklondon.co.uk. 31 Duke St, W1U 1LG. T: 020-7935 3303. D6. Station: Bond Street.
BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create cocktails. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE (and branches). T: 020-3441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.
DID YOU KNOW? GONG Bar, located on level 52 of The Shard, is the highest hotel bar in Western Europe
An outstanding bar, renowned for its superior Martinis, and oozing old-world charm. www.dukes hotel.com. Dukes London, 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY. T: 020-7491 4840. E7. Station: Green Park.
Fitz’s This bar is as classic as it gets – think velvet shellshaped sofas and wooden panelling decorated with paintings. Great for a date. www.ihg.com. Kimpton Fitzroy London, 1-8 Russell Square, WC1B 5BE. T: 020-3797 7282. C8. Station: Russell Square.
Freedom This long-standing gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and the nightclub below. www.freedombarsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
GONG Bar On level 52 of the Shangri-La Hotel inside The Shard, this is one of London’s highest Champagne bars, ideal for sunset cocktails with jaw-dropping views. Reservations recommended. www.the-shard.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.
Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890 in its candlelit, stonearched basement. Get there early to grab a table. www.gordonswinebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.
Jack Solomons Club Ring a bell in a kiosk in Soho and you’ll be granted access to this underground bar/club that’s inspired by a boxer (p. 64). www.jacksolomons.com. 41 Great Windmill St, W1D 7NB. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
L’escale Wine Bar Sample a range of wines from around the world in this intimate venue. www.traderswine.co.uk. Ivory House, Central Basin, St Katharine Docks, E1W 1AT. T: 020-7481 3796. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.
Mews Cocktail Bar Leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for this exclusive cocktail bar, which is home to exquisite wines and fresh fruit cocktails. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Most bars open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73 www.wheretraveler.com 65
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NIGHTLIFE Nightjar Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this stylish basement bar, with live music most nights. The cocktails are amazing. Please check the website for programme. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.
Opium Cocktail Bar Tucked away in Chinatown, this is a warren of rooms styled like a 1920s Shanghai bar, serving upscale cocktails and bar bites including dim sum. Reservations recommended. www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Floor-to-ceiling windows mean wherever you sit you’ll enjoy 360-degree views of the Tower of London, The Shard, ‘Walkie-Talkie’ and the ‘Gherkin’ from this bar, especially if you head outside to the roof terraces. Everything’s designed with Instagram in mind, from neon signs to injectable doughnuts. www.savagegarden.co.uk. DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel London. 7 Pepys St, EC3N 4AF. T: 020-7709 1043. E11. Station: Tower Hill.
Scarfes Bar This elegant hotel bar is named after the satirical British cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, who created the caricatures lining the walls. www.scarfesbar.com. Rosewood London hotel, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.
St Pancras Champagne Bar Order bubbly and oysters at Europe’s longest Champagne bar, which is on the Paris Eurostar concourse. www.stpancrasbysearcys.co.uk. St Pancras International, Upper Concourse, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.
Social 24 Smart bar next to Jason Atherton’s restaurant with an Art Deco interior and Prohibitioninspired cocktails. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.
Trader Vic’s A tiki-style basement bar and restaurant that is more than 50 years old. Try a Mai Tai cocktail in this exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.
London has bars dedicated to the 13th-century traveller Marco Polo and the fictitious 18th-century explorer Phileas Fogg – and now it has Rockwell, a new bar in The Trafalgar St James hotel that’s influenced by travel. Head bartender Marco Ercolano – formerly of Mr Fogg’s and The Rivoli Bar in The Ritz – creates cocktails with papaya, guava and aloe vera, while the food menu has international dishes such as tuna and salmon tacos with ginger and avocado. Designed by the team behind Wright Brothers and Bob Bob Cité (p. 58), the bar has vaulted double doors, murals and tropical blooms that creep up columns like vines. 2 Spring Gardens, Trafalgar Square, SW1A 2TS. T: 020-7870 2900. www.trafalgarstjames.com
CASINOS The Casino at the Empire This spectacular West End venue also has a restaurant and several bars, plus a dedicated poker room. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
Hippodrome Casino This landmark venue has fabulous gaming on three floors, plus the Heliot Steak House. It also hosts live music, such as The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm). www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.
DID YOU KNOW?
The Sportsman Casino
Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. There is a Julie Andrews made poker lounge, sports bar and her solo debut at contemporary fusion restaurant, the Hippodrome too. www.thesportsmancasino.com. Casino in 1947 The Vault Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 The whisky shop and bar 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch. Milroy’s has tables made of barrels, while The Vault, behind a bookcase, is its hidden basement bar. www.thevaultsoho.co.uk. 3 Greek St, W1D 4NX. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.
The Zetter Townhouse
A relaxed members’ jazz cellar and restaurant, specialising in British-based artists, playing blues, r’n’b and soul. The food is great, too. www.606club. co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 020-7352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.
Enjoy Tony Conigliaro’s groundbreaking cocktails in a hotel lounge with eccentric decor. www.the zettertownhouse.com. 49-50 St John’s Square, EC1V 4JJ. T: 020-7324 4545. C9. Station: Farringdon.
The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus there’s a DJ at weekends. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN (and branches). T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.
Bunga Bunga A crazy club with a boat on the dancefloor. www.bungabunga-london.com. 167 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PG (and Battersea branch). T: 020-7590 3602. D8. Station: Covent Garden/Holborn.
The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy, plus regular late-night events. www.thecomedystore.co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-871 7699. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.
Ronnie Scott’s The famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians for more than 50 years including Prince, Miles Davis and Ella Fitzgerald (p. 64). The weekly Sunday Jazz lunch has no minimum age. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Leicester Square.
Stringfellows Open since 1980, this club was established by the late Peter Stringfellow and is one of the world’s best-known gentlemen’s clubs. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.
ROCKWELL COURTESY OF TRAFALGAR ST JAMES
This spacious cocktail bar is hidden beneath Smithfield Market, with live jazz and blues music most nights. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Market, East Poultry Ave, EC1A 9LH. T: 020-3457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.
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T H E M O S T FA M O U S G E N T L E M E N ’ S C LU B A N D R E S TA U R A N T I N T H E W O R L D DI S CRE T I O N
QUA L I T Y
S ERV I CE
For Reservations and Enquiries
020 724 0 55 3 4 w w w. s t r i n g f e l l o w s . c o . u k Club open
Monday to Saturday 9.00 pm - 4.30 am or later 16 -1 9 U p p e r St . M a r t i n’s L a n e , L o n d o n WC 2 H 9 E F
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‘Falling asleep in a new bed is one of the biggest challenges faced by travellers’ The Red Eye at COMO Metropolitan London at Park Lane When travelling long distances and through time zones, your body will feel confused. Smooth the transition by settling into your new destination and its schedule by acclimatising before you’ve even checked in. This luxury package includes access to a shower on arrival followed by a 60-minute COMO Shambhala Massage that uses the hotel’s signature blend of massage oils to calm the mind and rejuvenate the body. After your treatment, enjoy a gourmet breakfast tray and guaranteed access to your room from 11am. www.comohotels.com The ZZZ-list at Sheraton Grand London Park Lane The celebrated Art Deco hotel has partnered with its neighbour Hatchards (the oldest bookseller in London) and sleep expert and chartered psychologist Dr David Lewis. The result is the ZZZ-list, an exclusive library containing specially curated books chosen to help you have a great night’s sleep. As
falling asleep in a new bed is one of the biggest challenges faced by travellers, the one-of-a-kind library houses 30 carefully selected fiction and non-fiction works that will ease you into an unbroken slumber. www.marriott.com Pop & Rest If jet lag gets the better of you, Shoreditch’s Pop & Rest’s sleep and meditation pods can be booked from 30 minutes to four hours. A receptionist welcomes you into your pod and offers refreshments. ‘We ask our guests to be quiet once they get here to avoid waking up the guests already sleeping and to keep the environment relaxing for everyone at all times,’ explains CEO Mauricio Villamizar. Once your time’s up, there is a knock on the door to wake you and then you can come round at your own pace in the waiting room. www.popnrest.com Tranquillity Pro Sleep Ritual at Cloud Twelve This lifestyle club in the heart of Notting Hill includes a spa, salon, nutritionally focused brasserie and holistic wellness clinic. Its sleep treatment is a complete mind-and-body experience, combining the intense, sleepinducing qualities of aromatherapy and music with the unique massage techniques of Kerala Ayurveda and Indonesian Sea Malay. The ritual stimulates three sensorial pathways to induce relaxation: warmed, scented oils, unique body-brushing techniques and specially selected music. www.cloudtwelve.co.uk
Pop & Rest
‘To Go’ at the Aman Spa at The Connaught Following a refurbishment this summer, the Aman Spa at The Connaught is back in business. If your stay is too packed, its ‘To Go’ massage is brief enough to squeeze in before leaving for the airport. It’s the quickest way to relax before boarding and prevent jet lag upon arrival. The treatment can be performed while you are clothed, so you can pop in and unwind before you fly. www.the-connaught.co.uk VitaDrip Infusions by The Elixir Clinic At The Ned’s Club Spa you can recline on cushions before being hooked up to an IV infusion of taurine, zinc, magnesium and potassium for an energy boost. It’s designed to kick-start your circulation and immune system – like a double espresso shot without the jitters. Pair with an Oxygen Bar session to replenish the O2 levels that air travel depletes to help you relax into your stay. www.thened.com
AMELIA JEAN JONES Contributor
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE SPAS
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Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel
This three-storey salon offers cuts, colours, blowdries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has a range of treatments lasting for 15 or 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.
An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments and a 24-hour gym. Luxury treatments include a Gold AgeDefying Facial and Carat Diamond Face and Body Ritual, while there are also treatments for two. Brands used include Forte Organics and Spiezia Organics. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.
Bamford Haybarn Spa
The Spa at Dolphin Square
First opened in the Cotswolds and loved by celebrities, this is the spa’s city branch. Treatments take a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL (and branch). T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.
Body Relaxation High-quality, deep-tissue massage in your hotel room, apartment or the Sloane Street studio. Open until late. T: 07906-029577.
Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. There is a VIP suite for couples. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 0207973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.
Elemis Day Spa Situated in Mayfair, this spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. The Penthouse is a private suite that you can share with a guest: upgrade your experience with a bottle of Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Mandara Spa Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. The decor features a bamboo forest, Mondrian paintings and Japanese Shoji screens. Signature treatments include the warm bamboo massage. There is a double treatment room, fitness centre and swimming pool. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.
Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for bridal and hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.
Spa Illuminata Enjoy this holistic skin and body-care haven. The menu includes facials and massages for men and women. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spa illuminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch. This plush spa in Chelsea (p. 12) has won many awards. Its philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include the Malay and Balinese massage, which incorporates herbs, spices and flowers. Look out for yoga classes, too. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.
One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing. Brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
Total relaxation, revitalising massage. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:
Late appointments available
SALONS Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish, men-only grooming establishment with a barbershop, body and hair treatments and products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Geo F Trumper
es Clefs d’Or Concierges Fresh from a refurbishment, this luxury spa is inspired by Chinese treatments. The menu offers scrubs, massages and facials. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.
by qualiﬁed female masseuse.
obody knows London like Mandarin Oriental
A traditional barbershop in Mayfair, which offers wet shaves, manicures and haircuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.
At this trendy hairdressers, you can choose your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB (and branches). T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.
...for shops, restaurants, theatre bookings and sightseeing activities in the area
They would be happy to assist you so that you can enjoy the very best that London has to offer in the time that you have to spend with us
Jo Hansford This hair salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.johansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.
Windle & Moodie
ytoeverything www.lesclefsdorgb.org The Refinery
Men-only spa with treatments ranging from sports massages to traditional shaves. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a lesson. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU (and Harrods branch). T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.
Award-winning hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for women. The 20-minute Speed Styling service offers styles from updos to braids. The salon uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleandmoodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.
T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most spas are open seven days a week, but check for opening hours. References at the end of listings (B5 etc.) are coordinates for the map on p. 72-73 www.wheretraveler.com 69 WL 57X124 CON FILLER 2018.indd 2 WL SEPT SPAS.indd 69
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TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £5 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.
GETTING AROUND For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.
London Underground (The Tube) www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (above). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The Night
Tube service runs Fri-Sat on the Central, Jubilee, Northern (via Embankment), Piccadilly and Victoria lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.90 (£2.40 with an Oyster card).
London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. A single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or a UK-issued contactless payment card. You can make unlimited bus and tram journeys for free within one hour of first touching in. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/buses.
London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes. Please check for 24-hour services at weekends.
Docklands Light Railway (DLR) Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 0345-222 1234.
Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex.
Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras King’s Cross International (connects to St Pancras) serve north, central and south-east UK. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. Visit www.nationalrail.co.uk St Pancras or call T: 0345-748 4950. Eurostar uses International. Visit www.eurostar.com. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (from outside the UK, T: 03432-186 186).
Accessible London Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river services at www.visitlondon.com/access and www.openbritain.net.
Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire cabs or minicabs, which you must book. We advise against using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except licensed black cabs. www.tfl.gov.uk.
Congestion and Emissions Charges There is a charge to drive in central London, MonFri 7am-6pm. Pay in advance or on the day (£11.50), or after (£14). This area is also the Ultra Low Emission Zone (ULEZ); cars must meet emissions standards or pay a further daily charge. T: 0343-222 2222. www.cclondon.com.
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CONCIERGE Robert Shorter
Head concierge at Royal Garden Hotel London in Kensington
Diana Memorial Playground Hampton Court Palace
Royal Observatory Tate Modern
Any strange requests?
What’s your dream day in London?
The king of Saudi Arabia asked us to find an original Slush Puppie machine with two flavours. We found one in Sunderland and my team installed it in his palace on ‘Billionaires Row’ between Highgate and Hampstead. It was surreal to see the king’s staff in traditional thawb drinking Slush Puppies.
Walk over the Millennium Bridge, visit Tate Modern, then continue to Shad Thames for drinks.
How would you see London in a day?
Share a hidden gem.
The best way to see London is on foot. Most of the main sights are within walking distance of each other and London is beautiful. By walking or cycling along the Thames you’ll experience more than you would sat on a tour bus.
Christopher Wren designed St Bride’s Church near Blackfriars. Its three-tiered spire, Wren’s highest, is the model for traditional wedding cakes.
What can families do? Toddlers can take a scooter from Royal Garden Hotel to explore Hyde Park, follow a sensory trail and play in the Diana Memorial Playground, which has teepees, a beach and a pirate ship for less able and able-bodied children. Teens can take a Fat Tire Tour or Shoreditch Street Art Trail to see graffiti by Banksy and others.
Any romantic ideas?
DIANA MEMORIAL PLAYGROUND, TUBE SIGN AND TATE MODERN © ISTOCK; HAMPTON COURT PALACE © HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES; ROYAL OBSERVATORY © THE ROYAL PARKS; BELMOND BRITISH PULLMAN © GEOFF GRIFFITHS; ROBERT SHORTER COURTESY OF ROYAL GARDEN HOTEL
Belmond British Pullman
Stargaze and travel the universe together at the Royal Observatory’s Planetarium.
Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion and Emissions Charges’ (p. 70). Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 0800-770 007. www.kendall cars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk. Miles & Miles: T: 020-7591 0555. www.milesandmiles.co.uk.
It’s often quicker to get around London on foot. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/legiblelondon.
River services www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: www.mbnathames clippers.com. MBNA Thames Clippers River Bus serves 22 piers, with departures every 20 minutes. Adult prices start from £4.40. River Roamer ticket (unlimited hop-on/hop-off all day from 9am) adult £19.80, child £9.90; family (two adults, up to three children) £39.60, children under five travel free. Discounts available on MBNA Thames Clippers with a TfL Travelcard, Oyster, via the app or online.
Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCeL London). You can board from the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). Buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.
What should visitors see out of town? Hampton Court Palace, Richmond and Syon Park in the south, the Royal Air Force Museum in the north and Bletchley Park near Milton Keynes.
Share a quintessentially English experience. Discover the British countryside on the luxurious Belmond British Pullman, the sister train to the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, which departs from London Victoria.
Why is your hotel special? Royal Garden Hotel London is steeped in sporting and music history: we hosted the 1966 World Cup winners; we were the first hotel in London to introduce scooters for our guests and we’ve welcomed The Beatles, The Monkees, Rod Stewart and Justin Bieber.
Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. £2 to hire a bike for 24 hours and the first 30 mins of each journey are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.
Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub that offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe, such as France and the Netherlands. SW1W 9TP. 0343-222 1234. www.tfl.gov.uk/ Victoria. D4. coaches
DELIVERY Mail Boxes Etc. Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mail Boxes provides trained, certified packers. There is also a digital printing and copy service. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.
24-hour Tube lines
The service runs on Fridays and Saturdays on the following lines. • Jubilee line: Across the entire line • Victoria line: Across the entire line • Northern line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town and High Barnet/Edgware • Piccadilly line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5 • Central line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault www.wheretraveler.com 71
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The Albert Memorial
Mica Paris in Fame the Musical
The soul singer has had a string of hits and is now starring in Fame the Musical at The Peacock Theatre as part of its 30th-anniversary tour
What are your favourite buildings in London? I love The Albert Memorial [Queen Victoria’s tribute to her beloved husband Prince Albert], which is close to the Royal Albert Hall. If you could visit any museum or gallery, where would you go? I love the Tate galleries, as well as the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum.
What is your favourite green space? Holland Park is my favourite park, especially the Japanese-inspired Kyoto Garden within it. Is there a place in London that holds a special memory for you? Lots Road in Chelsea, as I lived there for a long time. It’s near the river and seeing water calms me. I loved it, until I fell in love with Holland Park even more.
Do you have a favourite hotel in London? There are two special ones: Blakes and the Buglari Hotel and Spa.
How do you prefer to travel around town? I tend to take taxis as everything is close to where I live.
Tell us about Fame the Musical. It’s my sixth musical to date and it’s made for me – my role as Miss Sherman is similar to being a parent, so I feel totally at home. She is stern with her students to make sure they acquire an education as well as being artists.
Tell us about your ideal weekend. First I’d have dinner at C London in Mayfair, before heading to the Chiltern Firehouse for a boogie. I’d maybe even stay there overnight in one of the gorgeous rooms upstairs. The following day, I’d take my daughter and my bichon frise, Dali, for a wander around Covent Garden to watch the street entertainers and buy a patty at the Jamaican Patty Co (on New Row). They do the best Jamaican patties ever!
Why should a visitor go and watch it? The show is great because the original film really was the first of its kind depicting life in a stage school. Without Fame, there would be no High School Musical or Glee. It shows how, in the Eighties, you worked hard at your craft as opposed to now, where it’s perceived that you just stroll into it. Fame shows the darker side of dancing and singing. The cast are fantastic and the show is over two hours of dancing, singing and great storytelling.
Fame the Musical
What makes London stand out from the rest of the world? London is my place of birth and I’m still really in love with it. I have lived in America and other parts of the world at different points in my life and I feel blessed to be able to travel so much, but my home is here in London. I feel creative here and there’s such a great mix of culture, but seeping through it all is that British thing that just makes it unique. Fame the Musical. 11 Sep-19 Oct. The Peacock Theatre, Portugal St, WC2A 2HT. T: 020-7863 8222. www.peacocktheatre.com; www. sadlerswells.com
THE ALBERT MEMORIAL AND KYOTO GARDEN © ISTOCK; MICA PARIS AND FAME THE MUSICAL COURTESY OF FAME THE MUSICAL; BULGARI SPA © ROBERTO BONARDI
Where do you like to shop? Selfridges is good and Harvey Nicks [Harvey Nichols], of course.
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V&A South Kensington Until 16 February 2020 BOOK NOW vam.ac.uk/maryquant Members go free
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WhereTraveler London is the premier travel magazine for discovering the best things to do and see in London, UK. Check out our September 201...
Published on Aug 27, 2019
WhereTraveler London is the premier travel magazine for discovering the best things to do and see in London, UK. Check out our September 201...