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september 2013

the complete guide to go

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Hong Kong

Shiny New Diners Hong Kong’s Top 25 New Restaurants

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Mid-Autumn celebrations Get a tailor-made suit Explore Kennedy Town


where Hong Kong 9.13 ®

the guide

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06 Hot Dates Hong Kong’s hottest concerts, shows and events

18 art + culture Top galleries and our pick of what’s happening

26 dining Your A-Z of the best eats in town

36 Drinks Our favorite places to sip a cocktail

52 Walking Tour Explore a neighborhood on foot

54 Maps Kowloon & Hong Kong Island

Also inside 40 Shops + services From mega malls to local designers 46 NAVIGATE Fast facts and essential info

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features

58 30 THINGS WE LOVE Hong Kong’s all-time top spots and best experiences

10 Top New Nosh It’s all about “new” in Hong Kong, and restaurants are no exception.

8 Full Moon

on the cover september 2013

Celebrate Mid-Autumn Festival

the complete guide to go

®

Hong Kong

with a walk in the park

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Shiny New Diners Hong Kong’s Top 25 New Restaurants

46 West side story Go for a swim and a massage in Kennedy Town

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Mid-AutuMn celebrAtions Get A tAilor-MAde suit explore Kennedy town

The Dining Room is a contemporary take on Shanghainese cuisine. It’s one of 25 new Hong Kong restaurants to have won over Hongkongers’ tastebuds. See more in our cover feature on p.10.

wheretraveler.com The website from the editors of Where Magazine. Get all the latest city buzz from our experts—info only the locals know.

september 2013 I WHERE hong k o n g   3


where

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maga z ine

On the web: www.where-hongkong.com HK Magazine Media group acMG | ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION General MANAGER & Publisher Greg Crandall ADVERTISING director Jan Cheng Advertising Executives Ivor Ngo, Maggie Chong Advertising Coordinator Sharon Cheung Marketing MANAGER James Gannaban Marketing & Circulation Executive Charmaine Mirandilla IT SYSTEMS Manager Derek Wong

HK | EDITORIAL EDITOR-in-chief Zach Hines EDITOR Adele Wong CONTRIBUTORS Christopher Cheung, Kelly Cheuk Ying-ho, Andrea Kan, Lydia Sung, Catherine Lim, Jee Hee Lim, Catherine Ren

HK | PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER Blackie Hui ART DIRECTOR Pierre Pang Senior graphic designer Mike Hung graphic designer Iris Mak

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS HK | executive PRESIDENT Donna W. Kessler Vice president of operations Angela E. Allen general manager, where maps Christopher Huber

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hot dates Hong Kong By Kelly Cheuk ying-ho, Andrea Kan, Catherine Ren

September 14-22 Moon Gazing Since the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), Chinese people

other recyclable materials, and is situated on

have been celebrating mid-autumn by making food and

a reflective pool. Its reflection in the water can

wine offerings to the gods and expressing gratitude for

be clearly seen from a distance, transforming the

a full season’s harvest. Nowadays, friends and family

lantern into the shape of a full moon.

celebrate the aptly named Mid-Autumn Festival by

A special Mid-Autumn Urban Carnival will be

gathering together to enjoy mooncakes (traditionally

held on September 19, featuring cultural performances

made of a thin pastry shell, with yolk and lotus seed

in addition to the lantern displays. A Thematic Lantern

paste fillings), and light paper lanterns while admiring

Exhibition will also be held in Tsim Sha Tsui at the

the full moon. This year, the holiday falls on September

Hong Kong Cultural Centre Piazza, as well as the West

19. You can join in on the festivities by heading to

Kowloon waterfront promenade from September 5 to

Victoria Park for the celebrations held there.

October 13. Another celebration to look out for is the

The Lee Kum Kee Lantern Wonderland at Victoria

Tai Hang Fire Dragon Dance Parade, a traditional

Park is held every year around the time of the

march that began some 100 years ago. A three-day

Mid-Autumn Festival. Visitors to Hong Kong will be able

parade that involves more than 300 performers, it was

to admire the plethora of creative lantern designs

originally performed to ward off bad luck in the then-

featured around the park. The centerpiece this year is

fishing village of Tai Hang—and the tradition carries on

a lantern created by local architects Stanley Siu Kwok-

today. This will be held from September 18 to 20 on

kin, Aden Chan Pui-hong, Eddie Hui Chun-hoi and He

the streets of the Tai Hang neighborhood. September 14-22, 8-11pm; September 19, 6:30pm-midnight. Victoria Park, Causeway Bay. Free admission. Directions: Get off at Causeway Bay MTR station, Exit E, then walk along Great George Street to get to the park.

Yi-teng, the winners of a design competition organized by the Hong Kong Tourism Board in collaboration with the Hong Kong Designers Association, the Hong Kong Institute of Architects, and the Hong Kong Ambassadors of Design. Their “Rising Moon” lantern, resembling a halfmoon, is made of polycarbonate plastic bottles and

6 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013


hot dates September 6-22 Asian Invasion Catch some outstanding Asian works at the upcoming Chinese Documentary Festival, showcasing features by Hong Kong-based filmmakers as well as those from China and Taiwan. Here’s a sneak peak:

Summer Rain This poetic documentary features two Hongkongers finding their identities in two different cities. Starring director Tsang Tsuishan in Germany and artist Choi Bin-chuen. Agnès b. Cinema, Hong Kong Arts Centre, Hong Kong Film Archive.

Small Talk 2012 A couple is asked about their opinions of each other in front of the camera. As the shooting goes on, the questions go deeper and the lovers become more and more unhappy. Agnès b. Cinema, Hong Kong Arts Centre.

Tickets available at urbtix.hk. Check out www.cdf.asia for full schedule.

September 13

September 24

Through September

Razzle Dazzle

Killing It

Just Joking

Fans of Rihanna are in for a treat. The pop princess is bringing her Diamonds World Tour to Macau. Sing along with her as she performs worldwide hits like “Umbrella” and “We Found Love,” which will likely be accompanied by her famously risqué dance moves. 8pm.

Popular rock band The Killers is coming to Hong Kong. Expect catchy tunes from their latest bestselling album, “Battle Born.”

Founded by the TakeOut Comedy Club, The 7th Annual HK International Comedy Festival attracts the funniest acts from all over Hong Kong. This year’s lineup includes Dwayne Perkins, John Moloney, Paul Ogata and HK Magazine's Sean Hebert.

The Venetian Macau, Estrada da Baia de N. Senhora da Esperanca, Taipa, Macau. $280-1,868 at www.hkticketing.com.

8pm. AsiaWorld-Expo, Chek Lap Kok. $888 from www.hkticketing.com, Tom Lee outlets and K11 Select.

Various showtimes and locations. $500 from www.urbtix.cityline.com.hk.

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hot dates Hong Kong September 12-14

Well Played “My Queer Valentine,” a cabaret about finding a rainbow utopia, is returning to the Fringe Club following three sold-out seasons at various festivals. Expect great vocals, clever wit and a fabulous sense of humor. 8:30pm. Fringe

Through September

September 29

Home Grown

Coming Back

If you’re a fan of made-in-Hong Kong products, Island East Markets is the place to go. Here, you’ll find everything from local organic produce to goodies handcrafted by local artisans. There’s also live music and fun-filled workshops. Every Sunday, 11am-6pm. Island

The English alt-rock phenomenon of the ‘90s, Suede, is coming to Hong Kong for a live concert celebrating their new album, “Bloodsports.” The album debuted on the Official UK Albums Chart at number 10 and is well received by critics. 8pm. Hall 10, AsiaWorld-Expo, Chek

East, Tong Chong Street, Quarry Bay. Free entry.

Lap Kok. $580-780 from www.hkticketing.com.

September 14

September 25-29

Underground, Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central. $180-220 from www.hkticketing.com.

September 13-14

Making a Splash Enjoy your final bit of summer fun at the W Hotel’s Get Wet Summer Series. Partygoers will be lounging at the highest outdoor pool in Hong Kong, with the breathtaking city skyline as the backdrop. The poolside party will also feature internationally recognized DJs. 8pm. W Hotel, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3717-2222. $300 for a single-shot ticket, including a drink voucher, access poolside and after-party. $850 for a “WIP” ticket, including free-flow Veuve Clicquot champagne, wine, cocktails, beer and soft drinks poolside, plus a drink voucher at after-party.

September 20-22

Femmes Fatales Shakespeare’s “The Taming of the Shrew” is coming to Hong Kong, but there’s a twist: this time, it’s an all-female cast. For a classical touch, the Shakespeare’s Globe troupe will use live music and a traveling group of players. September 25-27, 7:30pm; September 28-29, 2:30pm, 7:30pm. Lyric Theatre, The Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai. $265-795 from www.hkticketing.com.

September 11-19

Tall Tales Top Notch Tales is bringing together the best of Hong Kong’s storytellers. You’ll hear it all—from awkward encounters to life-changing moments—so sit back, relax and enjoy the show. 8pm. Fringe Upstairs, Fringe Club, 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central. $120-150 from www.hkticketing.com.

Baring it All Founded by Samuel Mok, the Hong Kong International Guitar Festival features all sorts of fun activities, including two guitar competitions, international guest guitarists and five master classes. Guitar lovers unite.

For those seeking a unique French cabaret experience, look no further. “Forever Crazy,” based on avant-garde acts from “Le Crazy Horse de Paris,” is coming to town. Described as feminine, creative and audacious, “Forever Crazy” is a show that will engage the mind and the eye. Sep 11, 8pm; Sep 12-19, 9:45pm,

Sha Tin City Hall, 1 Yuen Wo Rd., Sha Tin. Visit www.hkguitarfestival2013.com for more information. $100-180 from www.urbtix.hk.

10:15pm. Lyric Theatre, The Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd., Wan Chai. $690-1,290 from www.hkticketing.com.

Pull a Few Strings

8 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013


Top Nosh Book yourself into a hot new restaurant while you’re in town. By Andrea Kan, Jee Hee Lim, Catherine Ren

Café Malacca

Catalunya

I

n a city as fast-paced as Hong Kong, new restaurants open faster than you can say “Bon Appetit.” From Chinese to western, noodles to pasta, the sky’s the limit for Hong Kong’s dining scene. Here are 25 new venues that have tickled Hongkongers’ tastebuds within the past year—in democratically alphabetical order.

1. Café Malacca

3. Chachawan

Expect authentic Southeast Asian streetstyle cuisine from Café Malacca, run by experienced Shangri-La chef Sunny Tse. Popular favorites include chicken and beef satay skewers, gado gado (a traditional Indonesian vegetable salad with peanut sauce) and beef rendang (beef in sweet stew). The aroma of fresh herbs and spices at Café Malacca coupled with the pandanflavored sweets and desserts make for a scrumptious meal.

The brainchild of restaurateur Yenn Wong, Chachawan is a new addition to Hong Kong’s Thai food scene. Seasoned Thai chef Adam Cliff brings to the table authentic Isaan (Northeastern Thailand) cuisine, which boasts a balanced yet punchy mix of flavors. Charcoal-grilled dishes are favorites. Remember to try the spicy grilled wagyu beef salad, the crusted and stuffed whole sea bass as well as the salted coconut dumplings.

2/F, Traders Hotel, 508 Queen’s Rd. West, Shek Tong Tsui, 2213-6613.

206 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2549-0020.

2. Catalunya

Chom Chom

Extending around 8,000 square feet, this venue is a contemporary Catalan oasis, with its moody dining space and stylish bar and lounge. The menu reflects both traditional and contemporary Catalan heritage, featuring roasted suckling pig, short-grain lobster rice, as well as Spanish omelet tortillas and truffle bikini sandwiches with Iberico ham and mozzarella. Also offered are creative desserts, like an innovative version of torrija bread pudding soaked in vanilla milk and served with smoked ice cream. G/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900.

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Chachawan

4. Chom Chom At newly opened Chom Chom, talented chef Peter Cuong Franklin recreates the Vietnamese Bia Hoi culture—the practice of drinking draft beer on street corners while eating street food—with a modern twist. The menu is focused on a select few categories (don’t expect the all-toocommon beef pho), but the flavors are exciting, creative and will leave you craving for more. Must-tries include the Vietnamese Fried Chicken and the turmeric fish with dill. G/F, Block A, No. 58-60 Peel St., Central, 2810-0850.


KimChi

Duddell’s

5. Duddell’s

8. Grassroots Pantry

Appreciate the paintings on the muted green walls while enjoying a hearty Cantonese meal in the dining room. Upstairs, you’ll find a salon and outdoor terrace that serves artisanal cocktails and vintage champagne— a perfect spot for mingling and relaxing. Everything from braised king prawn and dim sum to fried fresh lobster is on offer.

Tucked away in a corner of tranquil Sai Ying Pun district, this two-story boutique café knows how to satisfy health-conscious foodies’ cravings. Expect international vegetarian dishes using organic ingredients, and don’t you worry: vegan and gluten-free options are available for all dishes. The menu is seasonally updated. The signature palak paneer (spinach and cheese curry) is served with homemade whole wheat chapatti, and vegan diners can substitute mushrooms for paneer.

3-4/F, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-9191.

6. Fatty Crab A branch of the hugely successful Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York, Fatty Crab Hong Kong serves a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors with a fusion-y twist. Signature dishes include the Fatty Duck, chili crab and pickled watermelon with crispy pork. More traditional Southeast Asian dishes like Thai curry and Malaysian laksa are also on the menu. 11 Old Bailey St., Central, 2521-2033.

7. G7 G7’s intimate dining space is perfect for a peaceful retreat. Chef Eddy Leung and his team prepare fine authentic Italian cuisine using the freshest seasonal produce—from white truffles from Alba to seafood from Hokkaido. Start your four-course lunch with a scrumptious antipasti platter, followed by soup, pasta and main and finally a classic homemade tiramisu. Dinner also available.

Duddell’s

12 Fuk Sau Lane, Sai Ying Pun, 2873-3353.

9. KimChi Designed entirely by chef Chi Leung, this elegant private kitchen—despite its name—offers international fusion dishes with a molecular touch. Created with passion by Leung, each and every dish will catch you by surprise. The delicious and crispy deep-fried eggplant cubes will permanently change the way you think of the vegetable. For a crispy finish to your dinner, try the cream pine nut puffs that are freshly made daily. The set dinner menu includes soup, appetizer, main dishes, side dishes, staples, desserts, drinks and snack. Flat C, 7/F, Loong Wah Building, 36-42 Baker St., Hung Hom, 5364-6623.

KimChi

10. Kin’s Kitchen Father and son duo Lau Kin-wai and Lau Chun continue to revolutionize Cantonese cuisine by expanding the popular Kin’s Kitchen (with original branch in Tin Hau) to Wan Chai. Signature dishes include African chicken, Kin’s smoked chicken, and salt-baked chicken, all of which use full-term poultry that haven’t been treated with fast-growth hormones. 5/F, W Square, 314 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2571-0913.

7 Glenealy, Central, 2810-6626. september 2013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 11


11. Mayta This spacious and stylish resto gives you a touch of Peru, along with its wooden structures, dim lighting and patterned vases. Helmed by chef Jaime Pesaque, the menu presents an impressive selection of traditional Peruvian dishes offered sharing-style, including a variety of ceviches (fish slices marinated in indigenous spices and ingredients). There is also a Pisco bar providing house-infused liqueur, as well as wines, beers and cocktails from Peru and other new world regions. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, 2790-0928.

12. MC Kitchen Owned by Michelin two-star chef Alvin Leung, who is famous for his molecular Chinese dishes, MC Kitchen offers creative modern comfort food. Start off with the icy cold appetizer wasabi and apple ice with cucumber and move onto the signature main dish, iberico pork served with lychee jelly, hawthorn, and plum sauce. For a finishing bite, the ultimate dessert of coconut milk and coconut water snow served with rhubarb coulis and chocolate crumble. You can also book a seat by the chef’s table for more interactions with the chef.

Mayta

G/F, AIA Kowloon Tower, Landmark East, 100 How Ming St., Kwun Tong, 2758-2239.

Mayta

MC Kitchen

13. Mum Mum is a contemporary vegetarian dining space that provides simple and wholesome food like mama makes. Designed and built by owner Pokit Poon, who is also an interior and exhibition designer, the café features hand-built wooden tables of varying heights. The East-meets-West dishes on offer represent the dynamic diversity of Hong Kong. Try the signature aromatic steamed eggplant with pearl grain rice, house pickles and kombu salad. Shop G07, G/F, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, 2115-3348.

15. Qi House of Sichuan This trendy resto offers modernized interpretations of traditional Sichuan cuisine, using freshly imported seafood such as Dungeness crabs from Canada. The menu includes spicy crab poached in red chillies, green scallions and peppercorns; ginger scallion beef; cumin pork ribs; mala chicken and the popular fish in chili oil. 2/F, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-7117. Qi

16. Red Almond

There’s no better place to embrace the diverse and pervasive Asian noodle culture than at Noodle Lah, a canteenstyle eatery tucked away in Admiralty. From Singaporean laksa to Japanese miso ramen as well as non-noodle-y goods like pineapple fried rice and crispy spring rolls, Noodle Lah specializes in carbladen deliciousness.

Reminiscent of Chengdu’s well-known (pedestrian alleyways), the interior of Red Almond is decorated with bamboo ceilings, dark wooden armchairs, and large wooden oak doors. On offer are traditional hometown dishes, from green peas with preserved Sichuan chili sauce, ginger, garlic, vinegar and spring onion; steamed tofu with spicy and sour sauce; to spicy chili beef and thinly cut pork belly with parsley and scallion.

Shop A6-2, UG/F, Far East Finance Centre, 16 Harcourt Rd., Admiralty, 2529-0622.

14/F, Shop 1402, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2155-2872.

14. Noodle Lah!

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Red Almond


Ta Pantry

17. Stone Nullah Tavern Stone Nullah Tavern is a bar and kitchen located straight across from the historic Blue House in Wan Chai. Led by chef Vinny Lauria, the kitchen features New American cuisine: classic American favorites prepared with creative techniques and styles borrowed from various world cuisines. Their menu is updated often, as Lauria puts a huge emphasis on the use of fresh, locally produced seasonal ingredients. One of their must-try dishes is the Cheddarwurst, a homemade pork sausage seasoned with garlic and sage and roasted with chunks of cheese. It is served with sweet pickled apples and homemade English mustard. End your hard day at work with their exquisite and inventive dishes and a big gulp of good old American craft beer on tap.

The Dining Room

20. The Dining Room

23. Torimen

This Shanghainese resto by the Shanghai Min group is designed with gray oak floors, neat white tiles and green landscape walls. Paying tribute to old Shanghai, a domestically manufactured “Phoenix” bicycle from the 60s can be found in one of the corners. Start your meal with some mandarin fish chips, then go full-on with shredded duck noodles with hot and sour soup.

Torimen is a fun and informal ramen and yakitori restaurant. The broth is full-flavored and takes many weeks of preparation using a wide range of ingredients. Signature dishes include the seafood tsukemen, the ebi ramen, and the butter and sweet corn ramen. Our tip: the fried chicken side goes very well with the noodles.

G/F, 69 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, 3182-0128.

Shop 1201, 12/F, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2648-2299.

18. Ta Pantry

21. The Herbivores

Ta Pantry, a romantic European-style private dining space, is celebrity chef Esther Sham’s recently relocated venture. Contemporary French dishes are offered in several multicourse menus, each inspired by cuisines from around the globe, including Southeast Asia, Guangdong, Korea, Japan and the US.

Located in the heart of SoHo, The Herbivores is a cozy and casual vegetarian dining space that serves French and Italian cuisine with an Asian touch. Using the finest ingredients sourced both locally and internationally, they fill your lunch and dinner tables with homey, meticulously plated dishes. The Coco Ananas, made with yogurt mousse with coconut cake, grilled pineapple and coconut shreds, is a perfect guilt-free treat.

5/F, Block C, Sea View Estate, 2-8 Watson Rd., North Point, 2521-8121.

19. The Butchers Club The Butchers Club brings a novel take on steak dining to Hong Kong. Both a traditional butcher’s shop and private kitchen (for up to 10 guests), TBC specializes in dry-aged beef and offers customers the option of dining in or buying out. The menu is not just limited to beef; The Butchers Club also features pork, lamb and homemade sausages and burgers. Décor is homey and down-to-earth and service is superb. Unit 13C, Sun Ying Industrial Centre, 9 Tin Wan Close, Tin Wan, Aberdeen, 2552-8281. 14 W H E R E HONG KONG I september 2013

The Herbivores

Shop 1-2, G/F, 1-5 Elgin St., Central, 2546-8008.

24. View 62

35 Staunton St., Central, 2613-2909.

View 62 turns it up a notch by introducing the only revolving restaurant in the city that offers spectacular views of both Victoria Harbour and The Peak. Chef Paco Roncero presents his inventive and immaculate avant-garde Spanish nouvelle cuisine. The set lunch menus are updated weekly and dinner tasting menus consist of more than a dozen courses including snacks, tapas, main and dessert.

22. The Salted Pig

62/F, Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Rd. East, 2574-6262.

As the name suggests, The Salted Pig features a pork-centric menu. Favorites include the charcuterie platter and stuffed pork tenderloin (with dried plums, sausages, nuts and sage). The Pork Dictionary, another specialty, allows diners to choose their favorite size, cut and style of pork. Portions are plentiful and great for sharing. 2/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2870-2323.

25. Wild Grass Created and run by veteran restaurateur Jean-Paul Gauci, Wild Grass specializes in Provencal cuisine and organic head-to-tail dining. All the beef dishes are a must-try; other specialties include the stewed organic ox tongue and savory breaded pork chop. A special carvery brunch is offered every Sunday. Ambience is homey yet classy. 1/F, 4-8 Arbuthnot Rd., Central, 2810-1189.


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the guide Get Some Rest Feeling groggy after your flight? Book yourself in for a Jet Lag Eliminator massage ($1,450) at The Peninsula Spa, where you’ll get a 90-minute soothing body rub and an opportunity to use the spa’s thermal suite and tea lounge. If you’re looking for something longer, there are also half-day packages that include facials and lunches. Discounts are available for specific treatments, so be sure to call and ask. The Peninsula Spa, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6682, spaphk@peninsula.com.


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Art+culture | The Guide

Dream Weaver Artist Movana Chen loves to rip things up and put them back together. By Christopher Cheung

Movana Chen is a Hong Kong-based artist who seeks to explore the concepts of language, meaning and communication through a synthesis of various artistic forms, including fashion design, video and sculpture. Her past decade’s worth of work is now brought together in her retrospective exhibition, “KNITerature.” Knitting with shredded pieces of print material is the common thread that runs through her work, which concerns itself with themes of transformation and recreation. In 2004, she started making “magazine clothes” from shredded pieces of magazine paper as a process of reconstruction. Subsequent work saw her travelling to Seoul, Paris and London. Her international experience inspired her to create her recent homecoming piece, a video recording that shows her wearing a “Body Container” knitted from shredded travel maps, in various locations in Hong Kong. Her interest in the interaction between different cultures is taken one step further in an ambitious project called “Knitting Conversations.” This work of art is collaboratively created by 150 participants who shredded their cherished books and weaved them into various forms. Movana has collected the individual pieces into the final installation to be revealed in the exhibition. Through Oct 19, ArtisTree, 1/F, Cornwall House, TaiKoo Place, 979 King’s Rd., Quarry Bay, 5621-8631.

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You’ll find some of the best art and antique galleries in town along Hong Kong Island’s Hollywood Road.

18 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013


畫廊精選:

Cheong Soo Pien g 鐘泗賓 Chu Teh-Chun 朱德群 Hans Hartung Ling Jingjing 林菁菁 Bernar Venet Zao Wou-Ki 趙無極 Zhan Wang 展望

展出藝術家:

Chen Zhen 陳箴, Gilbert & George, Jenny Holzer, Barbara Kruger, Lin Jingjing 林菁菁, Richard Long, Mariko Mori, Bernar Venet, Wang Guofeng 王國鋒 Zhao Jinhe 趙金鶴, Zhou Wendou 周文斗

w w w. d e s a r t h e . c o m |

電 話 : 8 5 2 - 216 78 8 9 6

|

電郵:

hongkong@desarthe.com |

Zhan Wang 展望, Artificial Rock, 2005, Stainless Steel, Edition 2/8, 98 x 70 x 70 cm

香港中環雪廠街16號西洋會所大廈8樓


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Art+culture | The Guide

Face Off Vietnamese masters show their faces to the world at a side-by-side exhibition. By Catherine Ren

The expressions of a human face are always fascinating to capture, from the tiny wrinkles that form around the eyes to the dimples that come with a smile. Arch Angel Art Gallery presents the “Portraits from Vietnam,” a two-month-long exhibition featuring leading Vietnamese painters who are skilled at translating complex human expressions onto the canvas via portraits and self-portraits. The works of Nguyen Quan, Dinh Quan, and long-ago masters—done via oil on canvas, or lacquer on wood panel— all faithfully draw attention to every nuance and detail on the human face. Through Oct 30. Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm, Sun and public holidays 10:30am-6pm. 38 Peel St., Central, 2851–6882.

ARCH ANGEL ANTIQUES — The three-story shop houses large collections of Qing dynasty porcelain and restored 16th- to 18th-century Chinese furniture. Rare and authentic stone and bronze sculptures and buddhas, and terracotta sculptures from China and Southeastern Asia are found in the viewing galleries, plus there are more than 200 paintings in the extensive ancestral scroll collection. Open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. G/F, 53-55 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6848.

Antiques

Altfield Gallery

ALTFIELD GALLERY — Altfield Gallery deals in Southeast Asian sculpture and decorative arts, antique maps and topographical prints relating to Asia, as well as Chinese, Tibetan and Caucasian carpets. Altfield also produces a range of reproduction furniture and accessories in the Chinoiserie style. Shipping available. Shop 248-9, 2/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2537-6370, www.altfield.com.hk. 20 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013

ARCH ANGEL GALERIE “V” — This large gallery, just across from Arch Angel Antiques, is a must for collectors and connoisseurs interested in early stone sculpture and 16th to 18th-century Chinese furniture. These fine early examples are shown in original condition and exquisitely reconditioned by an expert furniture specialist. G/F, 70 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2851-6828. CHINA ART — This leading restorer and dealer in fine Asian antique furniture and artifacts holds frequent exhibitions and has published

two books, “Antiques in the Raw” and “Regional Furniture.” Go to the website to see what’s in stock. Unit 26-27, 15/F, Tower A, Southmark, 11 Yip Hing St., Aberdeen, 2542-0982, www.chinaart.com.hk. DRAGON CULTURE — Dragon Culture specializes in dinosaur egg fossils, Han Dynasty terracotta, Tang sculptures and Ming porcelain figures. 231 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-8098, www. dragonculture.com.hk. JOYCE GALLERY — Specializing in ancient sculptures and archaic bronzes from across China, Joyce displays a collection of antiquities dating back to the Shang dynasty, including ancient bronzes, stone carvings, gold and silverware, jade, pottery and Buddhist works. It guarantees its descriptions of the period and history of its items and offers a full refund if the purchased item does not match the description. Shop 1, 123 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2545-1869, www.joycegallery.com.


G111, HARBOUR CITY, CANTON ROAD WWW.MSBSCAKERY.HK


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Art+culture | The Guide each painting during frequent trips to Vietnam so, contrary to common practice, none of the works are on consignment. Be sure to check out their private stock on nearby Peel Street, featuring a fine collection of 20th-century contemporary paintings from some of Asia’s leading artists. 38 Peel St., Central, 2851-6882.

Lam & Co Antiquities

LAM & CO ANTIQUITIES — An impressive collection of fine Chinese antiquities which ranges from the Neolithic period to the Qing dynasty and includes bronze, gold and silver ware, pottery and porcelain. This shop is well-known by collectors, galleries and auction dealers worldwide and offers repair, restoration, authentication and shipping services. 2/f, 151 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2543-8877, www.lamantiquities.com. OI LING ANTIQUES — Oi Ling operates an outlet in Central, a warehouse in Ap Lei Chau, and a workshop in China where skilled workers restore furniture using traditional techniques. The Hollywood Road showroom houses a large collection of furniture from the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as authenticated pottery items dating as far back as the Neolithic era. Repair, restoration and shipping available. 58 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2815-9422, www.oilingantiques.com. WATTIS FINE ART — Specializes in antique maps of Asia, and historical photographs and prints of China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia. 2/F, 20 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2524-5302, www.wattis.com.hk.

Galleries 10 CHANCERY LANE GALLERY — Focusing on established and emerging international artists, 10 Chancery Lane consists of three large gallery spaces. It holds exhibitions of sculptures, paintings, photographs, installations and videos, as well as performances by renowned artists. G/F, 10 Chancery Lane, SoHo, 2810-0065, www.10chancerylanegallery.com. AGNèS B. LIBRAIRIE GALERIE — French fashion chain and long-time supporter of the arts, Agnès b. has a contemporary art space dedicated to showing the best from Asia and the world. G/F, 118 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2869-5505, www.agnesb.com. ALISAN FINE ARTS — This well-established gallery has organized more than 100 exhibitions for Chinese artists from around the world. Run by respected art-world figure Alice King, who has worked with the Guggenheim Museum, it also mounts exhibitions for overseas venues. Room 2305, Hing Wai Centre, 7 Tin Wan Praya Rd., Aberdeen, 2526-1091, www.alisan.com.hk. ARCH ANGEL ART GALLERY — One of Hong Kong’s biggest galleries features an outstanding collection of contemporary Vietnamese oil paintings, acquired directly from the artists. The owners have carefully selected and bought 22 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013

AP Contemporary— AP Contemporary is dedicated to supporting up-and-coming contemporary artists, especially those from developing countries like Brazil, Russia, India and China. Having said that, European and American talents are also represented at this space. 28 Tai Ping Shan St., Sheung Wan, 3105-2148, www.apcontemporary.com. ART BEATUS — Established in the early 1990s, Art Beatus features mainly original paintings and art by contemporary Chinese artists. Some of its collection has a retro slant, and uses elements of pop, propaganda, illustration and cartoon as vehicles for expression. Has branches in Vancouver and on Queen’s Road Central. G/F, 50 Peel St., Central, 2522-1138, www.artbeatus.com. ASIA FINE ART — Dedicated to promoting young Asian artists at affordable prices, this gallery has regular exhibitions of work from China, Vietnam and Indonesia and Myanmar for sale on site and online. 14 Sik On St., Wan Chai (entrance at 99 Queen’s Rd. East), 2522-0405, www.asia-fineart.com. ASIA SOCIETY HONG KONG — Asia Society Hong Kong's big, brand-spankin’-new headquarters are in a beautifully refurbished former storehouse for British artillery and ammunition. Playing host to a myriad of lectures, exhibitions, performances, film screenings, tours, seminars and conferences—97 percent of which are open to the public—the Asia Society is a literal treasure trove. Closed Mondays. 9 Justice Drive, Admiralty, 2103-9511, www.asiasociety.org/hong-kong. BEN BROWN FINE ARTS — After 10 years at Sotheby’s and two more at a private gallery, Ben Brown and his wife sought to create a space that housed pieces reflective of their tastes—primarily on European modern and contemporary artworks. 301 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2522-9600, www.benbrownfinearts.com. THE CAT STREET GALLERY — Showcasing contemporary and modern art in a variety of mediums, Cat Street exhibits emerging and established artists from around the world. 222 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan, 2291-0006, www.thecatstreetgallery.com. CONNOISSEUR ART GALLERY — Specializing in contemporary Chinese fine art since 1989, Connoisseur features such acclaimed artists as Paris-based Jia Juan-li, renowned Guangzhou artist Zhang Da-zhong and still life artist Liu Ying-zhao. Shop G3, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2868-5358, www.connoisseur-art.com.

CONNOISSEUR CONTEMPORARY — This contemporary gallery seeks to identify new and emerging talents as well as those deserving of more space and recognition. Expect to find a wide range of genres and styles from around the world. Shop G4, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3521-0300, www.connoisseurcontemporary.com CONTEMPORARY BY ANGELA LI — Perhaps best known for introducing Chinese artists Chen Jiagang and Liao Yibai to the art world, CBAL boasts a lovely space and a carefully curated exhibition program. G/F, 248 Hollywood Rd., Central, 3571-8200, www.cbal.com.hk. DE SARTHE GALLERY — Specializing in the sale of 19th and 20th century masters, previous exhibitions have shown the works of art world greats such as Miro, Picasso and Chu Teh-chun, just to name a few. First opening in Paris in 1977 and branching out across the U.S. and Europe, de Sarthe finally opened its first Asian outpost in Hong Kong in 2011. 8/F, Club Lusitano, 16 Ice House St., Central, 2167-8896, desarthe.com. ESPACE LOUIS VUITTON — LV has been invading gallery spaces for the past half decade, stirring unrest in the hearts of hard-line art critics but appreciation in the eyes of those beholders who’re able to look past reservations about brand-name commercialism. Espace Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Mansion, 5 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 8100-1182. GAGOSIAN GALLERY — With 12 galleries and counting, the famed Gagosian has chosen Hong Kong as its gateway to Asia. Theyopened their doors in January 2011 with a bang, featuring an all-new exhibition by Damien Hirst—Gagosian only exhibits the crème-de-lacrème of the art world. 7/F, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2151-0555, www.gagosian.com. GALERIE DU MONDE — Galerie du Monde hosts exhibitions by Chinese artists including Li Shuang, Le Longyao, Yu Xiaohui, Hon Chifun and Pan Xun. Its conservation studio provides a complete restoration service for works of art on paper and canvas. Shop 108, 1/F, Ruttonjee Center, 11 Duddell St., Central, 2525-0529, www.galeriedumonde.com. GROTTO FINE ART — Curated by Henry Auyeung, a specialist in 20th-century Chinese art history, this gallery represents local artists, with an interest in new and avant-garde art forms. You’ll find paintings, sculptures, prints and photography, mixed-media and installation pieces. 2/F, 31C-D Wyndham St., Central, 2121-2270, www.grottofineart.com. HANART TZ GALLERY — A specialist in contemporary Chinese art, Hanart has exhibited works in oil, ink, print, sculpture, photography and video by mainland, Taiwanese and Hong Kong artists. It offers a wide selection and prices that accommodate almost everyone. 401 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central, 2526-9019, www.hanart.com.


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Opera Gallery

Lehmann Maupin Gallery — With the original branch in New York and with its reputation of supporting contemporary art and culture, the Lehmann Maupin Gallery opened its doors here on March 14. Architect Rem Koolhas designed the gallery, making sure to keep the historic columns in the Pedder Building intact. Room 407, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central.2530-0025, hongkong@ lehmanmaupin.com. OPERA GALLERY — Opera Gallery features works by world-famous international artists, including Picasso, Chagall, Salvador Dali, Gerard Rancinan and Lita Cabellut, among others. W Place, 52 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-1208, www.operagallery.com. Puerta Roja — Puerta Roja was established to promote Latin American art and artists to the Hong Kong audience. Drawings, etchings, glasswork and sculptures are all featured here. Shop A, G/F, Wai Yue Building, 15-17 New St., Sheung Wan, 9729-1773. PICTURE THIS — The city’s largest affordable art gallery specializes in posters, antique maps, prints and early photographs of Hong Kong and China. It also carries antiquarian and secondhand books about Asia, first editions of modern literature, prints and photographs for children’s rooms, and sporting prints. Suite 1308, 13/F, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2525-2820, www.picturethiscollection.com. PLUM BLOSSOMS GALLERY — Recognized for its exhibitions of contemporary Asian art as well as an outstanding collection of museum-quality ancient textiles, Plum Blossoms is an established platform for the promotion of both ancient and modern arts. 14/F, Cheung Tak Building, 30 Heung Yip Rd., Wong Chuk Hang, www.plumblossoms.com. Red Square Gallery — Red Square Gallery is a window into Contemporary Russian Art. Expanding into four branches, the gallery is dedicated to bringing creative and dynamic artwork to Hong Kong. Shop 2, G/F, 1A Wong Nai Chung Rd., Happy Valley. 2838-0040, www.redsquare-gallery.com. Main branch in Stanley.

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SHIN HWA GALLERY — Focusing on Asian contemporary art, Shin Hwa features both upcoming and established artists. It is particularly committed to innovative Chinese artists. Room 4A, Yue On Commercial Building, 385 Lockhart Rd., Wan Chai, 2803-7960, www.shinhwagallery.com.

White Cube

WHITE CUBE — One of the world’s top contemporary galleries opened its first non-UK outpost in Hong Kong in March of 2012. The gallery represents many members of the Young British Artists (YBA) movement, who are known for their shock factor, confrontational nature and use of disposable materials—for instance, Damien Hirst’s famous dead shark suspended in formaldehyde. G-1/F, 50 Connaught Rd. Central, 2592-2000, www.whitecube.com.

NO RULES, JUST RIGHT. ‘GO OUTBACK’ TONIGHT! Causeway Bay 2/F, JP Plaza, 22-36 Paterson St. Reservations: 2881 8012 Wanchai 1/F, De Fenwick, 8-12 Fenwick St. Reservations: 3101 0418

www.outback.com.hk

Whampoa Shop 3A, G/F, Site 4, Whampoa Garden, Hunghom Reservations: 2766 2823

Tuen Mun Tsuen Wan

Whampoa Tsim Sha Tsui Wanchai

Tsim Sha Tsui East Taikoo Causeway Bay

Tsim Sha Tsui Shop 1, Level 2, 26 Nathan Rd. Reservations: 3741 1728

24 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013

Tsim Sha Tsui East Shops 23-28, Upper Ground Floor, Tsim Sha Tsui Centre, 66 Mody Rd. Reservations: 2311 7800 Tsuen Wan Shops 3-5, Level 2, Discovery Park Shopping Centre, 398 Castle Peak Rd. Reservations: 2940 0682 Taikoo Shops G9-G10, G/F, Kornhill Plaza, 1 Kornhill Rd. Reservations: 2560 8246 Tuen Mun Shop 2016-2017, 2/F, Phase 1, Tuen Mun Town Plaza Reservations: 2426 3918

ZEE STONE GALLERY — Zee Stone, established in 1991, exhibits a wide range of contemporary artists from mainland China, using both ink and color on paper and oil on canvas. The gallery’s exhibitions reflect the rich diversity of contemporary Chinese art, including abstract landscapes, realistic portraits, paintings on rice paper by traditionally trained Chinese masters and new work by a younger generation in acrylic and mixed media. G/F, Chinachem Hollywood Centre, 1 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2810-5895, www.zeestone.com.

Museums FLAGSTAFF HOUSE MUSEUM OF TEAWARE — Located in Flagstaff House, the oldest surviving colonial building in the territory, and once the home of the commander-inchief of British forces in Hong Kong, the museum houses a prized Asian teaware collection. It’s also home to Lock Cha Tea House, which serves myriad varieties of tea and delicate vegetarian dim sum in a cute Chinese-style setting. Closed Tue. 10 Cotton Tree Drive, Hong Kong Park, Central, 2869-0690, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG FILM ARCHIVE — A repository of all things related to Hong Kong films, the Archive contains lots of movies, conservation labs, a resource center, exhibition hall and a cinema. Closed Tuesdays. 1/F, 50 Lei King Rd., Sai Wan Ho, 2739-2139.


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HONG KONG HERITAGE MUSEUM — This modern museum is devoted to preserving the city’s historical, art and cultural heritage. It features permanent exhibitions on the New Territories, Cantonese opera and a Children’s Discovery Gallery. Closed Tues. 1 Man Lam Rd., Sha Tin, 2180-8188, www. hk.heritage.museum. HONG KONG MARITIME MUSEUM — This museum holds semi-permanent and special exhibitions tracing Hong Kong's growth into a major world port, and the contributions made by China and the West to the development of ships, maritime exploration, trade and naval warfare. Central Ferry Pier No. 8, 3713-2500, www. hkmaritimemuseum.org. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF ART — One of the city’s largest museums houses fine examples of ancient Chinese art from the Han to the Qing dynasties. The exhibition galleries regularly showcase contemporary and international works, including major traveling exhibitions from world-class museums. 10 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2721-0116, www.hk.art.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF HISTORY — This fascinating museum explores 6,000 years of Hong Kong history, from the Neolithic to the post-war period, with recreations of prehistoric scenes and the early colonial era. It’s the reconstruction of a street that really grabs your attention. Closed Tue. 100 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2724-9042, www.hk.history.museum. HONG KONG MUSEUM OF MEDICAL SCIENCES — Located in an elegant brick building, this museum charts the development of medicine in the city. It was the first to focus on both Western and traditional Chinese approaches to healthcare. Along with a display of herbs and remedies, there is antique apothecary equipment. Closed Mon. 2 Caine Lane, Mid-Levels, 2549-5123, www.hkmms.org.hk. LAW UK FOLK MUSEUM — Law Uk, which means “Law’s House” after its original owner, is an 18th-century, Qing-dynasty Hakka village house, complete with furnishings and artifacts. It is the sole remaining architectural example of its kind in Chai Wan. Free admission. Closed Thu. 14 Kut Shing St., Chai Wan, 2896-7006, www.hk.history.museum. LEI CHENG UK HAN TOMB MUSEUM — Housing a 2,000-year-old tomb with four chambers, this is one of the city’s most fascinating monuments. Discovered in 1955, it now has an adjacent gallery that features 58 items excavated during the construction of the Lei Cheng Uk Resettlement Area. Closed Thu. 41 Tonkin St., Sham Shui Po, 2386-2863, www.hk.history.museum.

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dining | The Guide

Right Back Matcha Lydia Sung and Andrea Kan search out the best green tea sweets in town. Green tea powder, or matcha, doesn’t just make for a fine tea ceremony. It’s alsothe ideal ingredient for a summer dessert. Grab a spoon and hop on the green tea train…

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1 Love in a Puff

3 Just Roll With It

5 Fond of Fondant

Looking for a quick green tea fix? The petite yet fulfilling green tea puff from Japan-based label Sweet House Cha Cha is the ideal grab-and-go. The chilled green tea custard is only injected into the freshly baked puff shells when ordered, which keeps the puffs crusty. Beware one thing: the custard filling will be oozing out of the puff until your last bite. Want more? Try their green tea smoothie and green tea soft ice-cream.

It’s absolutely worth the trip to Hiroshi in Jordan for their green tea cake. With fluffy and buttery green tea cream tucked in a soft layer of green tea sponge, the brisk flavor balances the heaviness of the cream, making for a sweet, buttery, but hardly filling delight. For die-hard matchaphiles, you could also try the green tea chiffon cake and green tea parfait, for the full green tea experience.

City’super, 3/F, Harbour City, 17 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2375-8222.

G/F, The Lamma Commercial Centre, 15 Parkes St., Jordan, 2737-2665.

This dessert may not be cheap—but it is worth it. Massive in size and therefore great for sharing, this dessert from the Steak House has a soft and moist green teaflavored outer shell and a warm and creamy inner green tea fondant filling. The red bean ice cream is a delicious contrast— in temperature, texture and taste—to all the green goodness. Classic Asian flavors combined with new gustatory surprises in every bite; need we say more?

2 So Much Soul

4 Proof’s in the Pudding

Sinmei Tea is a small café on the fifth floor of a commercial building, and it’s a true hidden gem. Our favorites are the matcha soul (green tea, soy milk, honey, almond, sultanas and sweet osmanthus flowers) and the matcha mojito (green tea, mint, lime and soda). The former is an aromatic panacea for those cold nights, while the latter is a refreshing summer drink. Both are creatively concocted and truly delicious. You could also try the green hot chocolate and the matcha soy white, or just go ahead and roll a cot into the store. With bevvies this good, why leave?

Japanese bakery Patisserie Yamakawa is famed for its delicious desserts and pastries, and its Matcha Pudding ($28) is no exception. Though somewhat miniscule and inadequate-looking, the big taste makes up for any aesthetic downfalls. The pudding is more than generous with its matcha powder while simultaneously going light on the sugar. The texture is silky smooth, and you’ll leave craving another bite.

5/F, CS Tower, 50 Wing Lok St., Sheung Wan; 3690-8238. 26 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013

Various locations including City’super, 1/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2234-2804.

InterContinental Hong Kong, Lower Level, 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2313-2323.

6 Cheesy Tea Teakha’s name is fairly self-explanatory: these folks know their teas. But you may not be aware that this small hideaway creates one of the best cakes in Hong Kong. It’s as smooth, rich and moist as any top-notch cheesecake needs to be, but the distinctive green tea aftertaste is what makes it outstanding. It’s balanced just right: not overpowering the cheesy foundation, yet still intense enough to savor. Shop B, Tai Ping Shan Rd., Sheung Wan, 2858-9185.


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dining | The Guide

Seoul Food Korean snacks are getting big on the streets of Hong Kong. Here are two casual diners where you can chow down on some spicy rice cakes and a bulgogi roll or two. By Adele Wong

School Food Load up on funky Korean snacks at School Food, a casual restaurant chain that originated from Seoul and now has dozens of branches throughout the States, Indonesia, Japan and of course Korea. We’re talkin’ spam kimbaps and dukboki (spicy rice cakes) like they make them on the streets, plus fusion dishes like dukboki carbonara-style, and pan-grilled bibimbap with a huge hunk of butter melting on top. Head here for a full-on meal or a quick snack between some heavy-duty shopping. Shop 1302, 13/F, Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2480-3666.

K-Roll

This Sheung Wan-based Korean-style snack shack was launched by three Korean ladies—and their impetus? One of the ladies’ daughters would come home from school hungry each day, begging her mother to open a kimbap (Korean sushi roll) restaurant so all her schoolmates could get their hands on these yummy treats without having to raid the little girl’s lunchbox. Besides kimbap, K-Roll also offers bulgogi with rice, japchae (noodles), dukbokki (rice cakes) and Korean ramen. The resto also recently launched the crab salad kimbap, the latest flavor to make the menu. 6A, G/F, Sen Fan Building, 6 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, 2234-5505.

Admiralty

Causeway Bay

DAN RYAN’S — American. $$$ Dan Ryan’s prides itself on Chicago-style chow. Shop 112, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2845-4600.

Hooray — Italian. $$. Al fresco drinks and dining in a casual setting complete with a magnificent harbor view. Shop P502, 5/F, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd., Causeway Bay, 2895 0885.

METROPOL — Dim sum. $ Beef balls, steamed shrimp dumplings, pork-and-shrimp dumplings, stuffed rice rolls and other Hong Kong specialties are wheeled around in traditional trolleys for an authentic dim sum experience. 3/F, United Centre, 95 Queensway, Admiralty, 2865-1988. NICHOLINI’S — Italian. $$$$ Hands down the best Sunday brunch around. It gets kudos from honest-to-goodness Italians, and that’s good enough for us. 8/F, Conrad International Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2521-3838. PETRUS — French. $$$$ This place can best be equated with a fine wine: expensive but so pleasing to the palate that it’s worth the money. The décor is a bit ostentatious, but the opulence suits the magnificent view. 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 2820-8590.

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IPPUDO — Ramen. $ Japan’s famous chain serves ramen in bowls so enormous they should be called cauldrons, with a meaty, savory broth, tender pork pieces, springy noodles and tangy spring onions topped with fungus and bean sprouts. 2/F, 8 Russell St., 2892-2387. MANGO TREE — Thai. $$-$$$ Somehow, in the middle of bustling Causeway Bay, in a high-rise chock-full of other restaurants and bars, Mango Tree manages to be an oasis of dim lighting, carefully placed flowers and good Thai food. 5/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Rd., Causeway Bay, 2577-0828. Sorabol — Korean. $$ The smell wafting from the open barbecues in the middle of each table will get your appetite going— which is a good thing, since you’ll want to try everything. 18/F, Lee Theatre Plaza, 99 Percival St., 2881-6823.

Tott’s — Modern Asian/Western. $$$-$$$$ Sophisticated décor, harbor-view seats, and perfectly crafted entrees are the hallmark here. The attentive service also deserves special mention. 34/F, The Excelsior, 281 Gloucester Rd., 2837-6786.

Central & Lan Kwai Fong AMBER — Modern French. $$$$ Modern, inventive French cuisine meets attentiongrabbing decor. 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2132-0066. Brickhouse — Mexican. $$. Imagine street-side Mexican combined with hipster-chic décor and upbeat music. Phone reservations not allowed and queues form quickly at peak hours so early arrival recommended. G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St. Boqueria — Spanish. $$$ Feast on tasty tapas and bomba rice paellas at this chain from New York. 7/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2321-8681.


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dining | The Guide CAPRICE — French. $$$$ Three Michelin Stars. Splurge on haute cuisine at this French restaurant staffed by chefs formerly of Le Cinq in Paris. The gorgeous interior includes floorto-ceiling windows. 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8860.

The Peak THE PEAK LOOKOUT — International. $$$ Offering an alfresco terrace with a view, this restaurant features an open, bright and airy environment—more like a mountain lodge than a country club—and excellent fare. 121 Peak Rd., 2849-1000.

Lung King Heen

Duddell’s

Duddell’s — Cantonese. $$$. Serves Chinese fusion by former T’ang Court Chef Siu Hin-chi. The art pieces on display are another highlight. Levels 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell St., 2525-9191.

LUNG KING HEEN — Cantonese. $$$-$$$$ Three Michelin Stars. The name means “view of the dragon” and the floor-to-ceiling windows make the case. Stylish décor, flawless service and traditional as well as innovative dishes only add to the appeal. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 3196-8880.

ISLAND TANG — Cantonese. $$$$ Shanghai Tang founder David Tang’s art-deco dining space is a welcome bright spot amid Central’s modern office towers, with top local cuisine to match. Shop 222, 2/F, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2526-8798.

Mayta

Mayta — Peruvian. $$$ Indulge in colorful and multi-textured dishes like seafood ceviche at one of LKF’s most popular new restos. 3/F, Grand Progress Building, 15 Lan Kwai Fong, 2790-0928.

LIN HEUNG Lau— Cantonese. $$ The setup has changed little in more than 50 years and it still remains a popular hangout for those craving a bit of old Hong Kong nostalgia and really, really good food. Most people come here for daytime dim sum, but dinner’s great too. 160-164 Wellington St., Central, 2544-4556. 30 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013

JASHAN — Indian. $$ Immediately impressive, with dim lighting, vermilion walls and colonial furnishings, Jashan offers an extensive menu, delicious food and hotel-level service. 1/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., 3105-5300. POSTO PUBBLICO — American Italian. $$$ Hip Greenwich Village types come to get their fill of such dishes as veal meatballs and sandwiches of homemade mozzarella, eggplant and lashings of balsamic vinegar. 28 Elgin St., 2577-7160.

Yardbird

Sevva

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON — French. $$$$ The Frenchman named “Chef of the Century” by Gault Millau designs authentic dishes with exquisite finesse and precision, which are then turned out by highly trained chefs in the open kitchen. Shop 401, 4/F, The Landmark, 2166-9000.

THE VERANDAH — Continental/International. $$$ Book brunch in time to get a seat at this popular spot. On other days, the a la carte menu never disappoints. Closed Mon. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2822.

pierre — French. $$$$ Masterminded by threeMichelin-star chef Pierre Gagnaire, this is a bastion of fine French dining. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4001.

ISOLA BAR & GRILL — Italian. $$$$ The glam factor is off the scale, with stunning harbor views and high ceilings, not to mention handmade pastas, pizzas, risottos and more. Shop 3071-75 & 4011, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., 2383-8765.

L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon

SPICES — Pan-Asian. $$$ Below a glassy high-rise, this restaurant is devoted to showcasing the “fabled ingredients of the exotic food of the East.” It also offers a fantastic view of the South China Sea and the sandy shores below. 109 Repulse Bay Rd., 2292-2821.

SoHo

Fatty Crab — Southeast Asian. $$$. A branch of the popular Fatty Crab Restaurant in New York. Expect a delectable mix of South-East Asian flavors. 11-13 Old Bailey St., 2521-2033. INAGIKU — Japanese. $$$ The Hong Kong branch of one of Japan’s oldest and best-known restaurants, it lives up to the buzz: authentic, delicious and quiveringly fresh. 4/F, Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St., 2805-0600.

Repulse Bay

SEVVA — Contemporary. $$$$ The brainchild of local socialite Bonnie Gokson, this 22,000-square-foot penthouse restaurant comes with a buzzing wraparound terrace. The elegant eatery serves dishes drawn from Cantonese, Shanghainese, Indian and British culinary concepts. 25/F, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., 2537-1388. YELLOW DOOR KITCHEN — Sichuan. $$ Hong Kong’s first private kitchen, this favorite has been serving up fiery Sichuan cuisine since the early 1990s. 6/F, 37 Cochrane St., 2858-6555. ZUMA — Japanese. $$$$ This is one goodlooking restaurant, split over two floors and linked by a sumptuous staircase. It’s the local branch of London’s famed eatery, offering a sophisticated twist on the traditional izakaya. 5-6/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3657-6388.

YARDBIRD — Yakitori. $$$ This is a no-frills yet achingly modern two-story yakitori joint in a trendy corner of the district. The skewers are mostly chicken-based, and taken from every part of the chicken’s body from the heart to the skin. Don’t forget to sample the house sake. 33-35 Bridges St., 2547-9273.

Tsim Sha Tsui

Angelini

ANGELINI — Italian. $$$-$$$$ With Italian native Marco Medaglia at the helm, Angelini serves up unpretentious food, with an emphasis on ingredients air-freighted from Italy three times a week. Also has a great harbor view. Mezzanine, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Rd., 2733-8750.


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FELIX — Fusion. $$$$ Still one of the swankiest restaurants in town, with Philippe Starck décor, modern food and famous bathrooms. It’s glam, contemporary and kid-free. 28/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, 2696-6778. FOOK LAM MOON — Cantonese. $$$$ Devotees swear this place serves the best Cantonese cuisine in the world. It’s been the place to go for southern Chinese delicacies for more than five decades. 55 Kimberley Rd., 2366-0286. HUTONG — Northern Chinese. $$$$ Dark wood furnishings and a fabulous harbor view make for a modern-day Chinese dining hall. The food is beautifully presented northern Chinese haute cuisine. 28/F, 1 Peking Rd., 3428-8342. MORTON’S OF CHICAGO — Steak. $$$$ With huge slabs of prime, aged beef accompanied by what looks like the winning entries in a hard-fought vegetable show, Morton’s is one of the best steak restaurants in Hong Kong. 4/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers, 20 Nathan Rd., 2732-2343.

Nobu

NOBU — Japanese. $$$$ Mind-blowingly artistic in presentation, design and execution, this famous restaurant deserves the hype. Sushi is a must, as is the amazing black cod. 2/F, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2323.

Spoon

SPOON — French. $$$$ Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows, a fabulous harbor view and a pick-and-mix menu that gives you room to be creative. Lobby, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd., 2313-2256. T’ANG COURT — Cantonese. $$$$ This little gem serves some of the city’s finest Cantonese cuisine. 1/F, Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd., 2132-7898.

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dining

Whisk — Modern European. $$$ Whisk is known for its contemporary European dishes and extensive wine list that is relatively more affordable than other fine diners. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., 2315-5999. YE SHANGHAI — Shanghainese. $$$ With upscale cuisine served in shareable portions, this is the place for Shanghainese dishes like camphor-smoked duck with pancakes. Also known for its interior full of fabulous chinoiserie. 6/F, The Marco Polo Hong Kong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd., 2376-3322.

Wan Chai

Bo Innovation

BO INNOVATION — Asian. $$$-$$$$ Experimental cuisine pairing local ingredients with delicacies imported from across the world. Shop 13, 2/F, J Residence, 60 Johnston Rd., 2850-8371.

Catalunya

Catalunya — Spanish. $$$$ This 7,500 square feet of restaurant and bar space offers Catalan-style dishes such as roasted suckling pig and lobster rice. G/F, Guardian House, Morrison Hill, 32 Oi Kwan Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-7900. MADAM SIXTY EIGHT — European. $$$ At this posh eclectic eatery, an open kitchen faces the diners, with chefs readying exquisitely prepared dishes scurrying around. 1/F, The Podium, J Senses, 60 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2527-2558. THE PAWN — British. $$$ Serving fabulous food in a faithful restoration of an 1888 landmark building, The Pawn houses a bar and a restaurant with a roof and a breezy balcony overlooking Johnston Road. The menu has modern British fare with a luxurious twist. 62 Johnston Rd., 2866-3444. WOOLOOMOOLOO — Australian/New Zealand. $$$ This steakhouse is several places at once: a laid-back wine bar and a casual drinks terrace on the rooftop, and a fine-dining steakhouse below. 31F-Roor, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960. 32 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013


Taste of the city special advertising section

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September 2013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 33


BARS & CLUBS

To get listed on this page, email advertising@asia-city.com.hk or call 2850-5678.

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Bacar Bacar serves unpretentious food and wine at very competitive prices. It is popular with HK regulars who like to people-watch while standing next to the escalators with wine in hand.

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G/F, 2 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8322

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L’etage With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a taditionally made cocktail.

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Iberico & Co. This space was designed by award-winning designer Kinney Chan, and offers something completely unique to SoHo customers: an airy, spacious and grand interior with an unpretentious gastro bar feel. G/F, 18 Shelley St., SoHo, 2752-8811

34 W H E R E HONG KONG September 2013

Enoteca on Elgin Enoteca on Elgin opened its doors in 2005 and remains busy and buzzing almost six years on. This narrow 60-seat Mediterranean tapas and wine bar is so popular with locals and tourists that reservations are a must. G/F, 47 Elgin St., SoHo, 2525-9944


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Cicada Cicada is the first wine bar and restaurant in Hong Kong to dedicate itself entirely to “Asian Tapas.” Its intention is for guests to sample a wide array of dishes and flavors from all over the region in a contemporary, Asia-inspired city wine bar. G/F, 4 Shelley St., SoHo, 2521-8188

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Le Boudoir

This Chilled- out spot has an official

This Francophone hangout is all sultry

“no loud music” policy, making it the

drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery.

perfect place for a few low-key drinks.

The cocktails are stellar too.

The outdoor terrace is a serene place

B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central 2530-3807

to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central 2545-8555

September 2013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 35

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Drinks | The Guide Bars & Clubs

A Cocktail a Day... Andrea Lo finds you a drink for every night of the week that you’re in Hong Kong. Socialito

Angel’s Share

Lily & Bloom

Cruise Along You’ll need something nice and strong to kick-start your week. Look no further than Havana and its Jamaican Cruise cocktail. The fruity drink is made with spiced rum, Midori, curaçao, peach schnapps and pineapple juice. Havana, 4/F, The Plaza, 21 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2851-4880.

Social Butterfly Spice up an otherwise boring Tuesday night by hitting up Socialito to try its Sociarita cocktail. A contrast of sweet and spicy flavors, it’s made with jalapenoinfused tequila and lavender honey, with dashes of lime and peach bitters. Socialito, G/F, Shop 2, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3167-7380.

Class Act Keep it classy with Lily & Bloom’s modern take on the Old Fashioned. The drink comes with all the usual trappings, in addition to Michter’s whisky infused with Snickers chocolate. Lily & Bloom, 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166.

Pining for Pandan Local mixologist Antonio Lai has created all-new cocktails featuring coconut

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Antonia Lai at Origin

water as an ingredient. Try the Pandan Jax, made with pandan-infused gin, pandan syrup, lemon juice and Jax Coco coconut water. Origin, G/F, 48 Wyndham St., Central, 2668-5583.

Lucking Out Check out W’s Vintage Cocktail Night every Thursday at Woobar. Try the Clover Club, which was invented at Philadelphia’s Stratford Hotel in 1880. It’s made with Hana gin, raspberry syrup and lemon juice, with smooth, foamy egg white on top. Woobar, W Hotel, ICC, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 3717-2222.

Singing High Praises Ozone at the Ritz recently launched a brand new cocktail list that’s begging for a taste test. Check out the Aria 118, made with orange vodka and sake along with coconut rum, passion fruit and lychee. Ozone, 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong, ICC, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270.

Seeing Red The Globe’s Bloody Mary cocktail is made with a fiercely guarded secret recipe—and nobody does it better. Enjoy along with a tasty British dish at this basement gastropub. The Globe. G/F, Garley Building, 45-53 Graham St., Central, 2543-1941.

ANGEL’S SHARE — This unique drinking loft is specifically designed for whisky-lovers. Sourced from Scotland, to Japan, there’s enough aged golden liquid here to suit even the most discerning single-malt drinkers. 2/F, Amber Lodge, 23 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-8388. AQUA spirit — For cocktails with a killer view, you can do no better than this swanky high-rise venue with an eagle’s eye view of the harbor. 29/F, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. Azure — Stunning view, minimalist blue décor and great cocktails. 29/F, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 3518-9330. Beijing Club — This impressive megaclub recently celebrated its fourth anniversary and is the biggest in town. Expect wet-look vinyl walls, gold-plated bathrooms and a youthful crowd. 2-3/F & 5/F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St., Central, 2526-8298. Blckbrd — This chilled-out spot has an official “no loud music” policy, making it the perfect place for a few low-key drinks. Located on the sixth floor, the outdoor terrace is a serene place to watch the world go by. 6/F, 8 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, 2545-8555. BLUE BAR — The upscale Blue Bar is a big hit with the cocktail set. Yes, the martinis are worth getting dressed up for. Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8830. Café Gray Deluxe — Beside the seductively stretched bar are cozy booths for intimate lounging, and its 49th-floor perch guarantees breathtaking harbor views. Cocktail lovers should try the Hong Kong Highball. 49/F, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. Central Wine Club — This exclusive spot on Wyndham Street was designed with oenophiles in mind. Luxe, modern Baroque surrounds keep pace with the slow jazz and contemporary tunes. 3/F, Sea Bird House, 22-28 Wyndham St., Central, 2147-3448. CLUB@28 — This stylish bar has killer views, deadly cocktails and its very own outdoor oasis called The Pavilion. It’s members only, but you can join on arrival and it’s free. 28/F, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 8 Leighton Rd., Causeway Bay, 3980-3300.

For weekly event listings, pick up a free copy of HK Magazine (available at most bars, restaurants and coffee shops).

36 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013


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Drinks | The Guide DRAGON BAR — The kitschy-chic bar sits betwixt the equally droll west and east dining rooms, and looks like an exotic dive in 70s London Chinatown. Hullet House, 2A Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3988-0101.

Martini BAR — This stylish hotel bar has nightly entertainment, a range of cocktails beyond just martinis and is one of the few cigar lounges in town. The Royal Garden, 69 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui East, 2733-2995.

Staunton’s — Popularly considered the best “people-watching spot” in Hong Kong, Staunton’s has the right equation for a chill evening drink. It also has an eclectic menu. 10-12 Staunton St., Central, 2973-6611.

DRAGON-I — Watch the bold and the beautiful work the celeb-studded room. It’s usually packed with models, especially on Wednesday nights. UG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham St., Central, 3110-1222.

Lion Rock — Lion Rock is the place to unwind and relax while having one (or more) of 193 signature cocktails. Enjoy the awesome view and weekly wine and whisky tastings. 3/F, Royal Plaza Hotel,193 Prince Edward Rd. West, Kowloon, 2622-6167.

SUGAR — Sink into one of the sofas at this swanky rooftop bar and enjoy the amazing views of the harbor. 32/F, East Hotel, 29 Tai Koo Shing Rd., Tai Koo, 3968-3738.

EXECUTIVE BAR — So quiet the sound of a ninja’s sword slicing through silk would be cause for shushing. Well, not really, but it is quiet, Japanese and well stocked with Scotch— the drink of the introspective man. 27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2893-2080. GRAPPA’S CELLAR — This bustling after-work spot features some of the city’s top jazz musicians. B/F, Jardine House, Connaught Place, Central, 2521-2322.

MCSORLEY’S ALE HOUSE — Woody, Irish and vaguely Victorian, McSorley’s is the biggest pub in SoHo. 55 Elgin St., SoHo, 2522-2646. MO BAR — The bar at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a sleek, upscale addition to the nightlife scene. The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, Central, 2132-0077. Ozone — Located 118 floors above the ground, this watering hole boasts a superlative title: the highest bar in Hong Kong. This nightspot is a must-see, especially due to its drop-dead gorgeous lookout onto Victoria Harbour. 118/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, International Commerce Centre, 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2263-2270.

Jaa Bar

Jaa Bar — Located in a small alleyway off of Peel Street, Jaa Bar combines comfort and charm for an exclusive experience. The centerpiece of the ornate enclave is a custom-made wooden bar pieced together from classical furniture pieces. 1 Pak Tsz Lane, Central, 2815-8887. KEE CLUB — A good concierge should be able to get you into this exclusive members-only club, where you can sip a cocktail and check out the Picassos, antiques and colonial-style service. 6/F, 32 Wellington St., Central, 2810-9000. L’etage — With the feel of a true gentlemen’s club, this is a place for refined Hongkongers to sit back and relax with a traditionally made cocktail in one hand and a cigar in another. It’s worth coming back just to watch head bartender Katsuhisa Hirakawa hand-carve spheres of ice for whisky. 22/F, 525 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2522-5300. LE BOUDOIR — This Francophone hangout is all sultry drapes, chandeliers and velvet upholstery. The cocktails are stellar, too. B/F, 65 Wyndham St., Central, 2530-3870. LILY — Get buzzed in and out of Lily’s fabulous secret room, the Blind Pig. Aesthetes will be delighted that so much attention has been paid to the visual elements of the venue. 6/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central, 2810-6166. M BAR — Set against the heights of Hong Kong’s skyline, the Mandarin Oriental’s M Bar makes for a ravishingly chic hangout. 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd. Central, 2825-4002.

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Red Bar

The Lawn

The Lawn — This outdoor garden is a genuine urban oasis, exuding a serene, intimate vibe and illuminated entirely by a few candles. 6/F, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 3968-1106. THE PAWN — The modern British restaurant and bar, a former pawn shop, has an outdoor balcony from which to enjoy a view of Hong Kong’s 100-year-old trams. 62 Johnston Rd., Wan Chai, 2866-3444. The Tonno — This complex features a bar, a clubbing zone, a restaurant, a live music lounge and karaoke rooms, taking “allaround entertainment” to a whole new level. Head here for an epic marathon of dancing, drinking, Elton John hits, dart games and Shanghainese buns. 5 Tonnochy Rd., Wan Chai, 3125-3888.

RED BAR — Located on a terrace atop IFC Mall, this funky destination bar has a breathtaking public outdoor area with harbor views. 4/F, Two IFC, 8 Finance St., Central, 8129-8882. RIEDEL ROOM — The world’s first Riedel Room offers exclusive wines to be enjoyed in Riedel crystal glassware. JW Marriott Hotel, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2841-3836. Sake Bar Ginn — Sake sommelier Ayuchi Momose is behind this upper-floor bar. In addition to serving 100 types of sake and 30 Japanese tapas, she also imports special sakes by microbreweries. Shop 4C, 4/F, Ho Lee Commercial Building, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2536-4355. Salon de Ning — Decadent Shanghai art deco lounge with live music Tue-Thu. B/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2696-6705. SHORE — A chill outdoor space and one of the most extensive drinks selection in town. Newly renovated. 3/F, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2915-1638.

Vibes

VIBES — This is the Mira hotel’s svelte venue for drinks, with a stunning secret garden. 5/F, The Mira, 118 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-5999. VOLAR — Frequented by models and wannabes, Volar can be exclusive, but you can dance the night away to top DJs. B/F, 38-44 D’Aguilar St., Central, 2810-1510. WOOLOOMOOLOO — This steakhouse outlet boasts a gorgeous rooftop with stunning views of Victoria Harbour and the Happy Valley horse racing track. 31/F, The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Rd., Wan Chai, 2893-6960.


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ShopS+Services | The Guide

Hot Prints Two Hong Kong-based brands have one thing in common: creatively colorful prints. By Jee Hee Lim

Tribal Flavors Born and raised in a third-generation Kenyan family that was originally from India, Rakhee Shah launched Maisha Concept in Hong Kong last year to increase awareness about Africa and African fashion in Asia. Shah travels around Africa two to three times a year, mainly in East and West Africa, to personally handpick the fabrics and accessories from local suppliers, artisans and some nomadic tribes. “Every piece is unique and has a story to say about where the fabric has come from and how it’s been used by the women in Africa. Every piece is also promoting someone back home,” says Shah. Traditionally worn as sarongs or head wraps by African women, the fabrics transform into dazzling and modern everyday outfits with Shah’s magic touch. The brand’s limited-edition pieces are made from fabrics that are produced in very small quantities. “Someone who’s travelled or someone who appreciates art would be able to relate to it,” says Shah. “The collections are full of culture, tradition and art.” Shah also designs purely bespoke pieces that will make you stand out in the crowd. The collection is available at Four Seasons Spatique, and retail boutique Kapok also stocks the brand’s products. Maisha Concept also takes part in various fashion events. Stay updated via their Facebook page or Twitter. Maisha Concept, www.maishaconcept.com. Check out the latest products at Spatique, 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance St., Central, 3196-8888.

Maisha Concepts

Local Loco Kokonuzz is a new-in-town streetwear brand with a wacky sense of humor. Created by Spanish designer Alexis Bautista, who has been living in Hong Kong for more than seven years, the first collection of colorful T-shirts featuring hilarious animal characters pokes fun at Hong Kong’s colorful food culture. The designer’s personal favorite item from the collection is a blue tee that features Kino, a pig, wrapped up in a char siu bao (Chinese barbecue pork bun). “The idea is to put a smile on the faces of those who wear our T-shirts and also those whom they cross paths with. Life in

Hong Kong can get quite stressful and we need to take a break from time to time. I want Kokonuzz’s products to give people a chance to laugh and just enjoy the moment,” says Bautista. All items get packaged in mock cereal boxes starring Kokonuzz characters alongside crazy descriptions that will make you laugh. Collectible gifts, including a matching character badge and a sticker, are enclosed together in the package. Kokonuzz, www.kokonuzz.com. Check out the latest products at Island East Markets, Tong Chong Street, Quarry Bay, on September 6 and 22.

Kokonuzz

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Almost all goods, apart from certain types of alcohol and tobacco, are tax-free.

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ShopS+Services | The Guide

House of Suits

Sponsored Feature

Looking for a tailor-made suit? Punjab House can have you in and out in less than a week. By Joey Wong

Hong Kong’s a city known for its conveniences—and this includes lightningquick custom tailoring. Take the longstanding Punjab House, which makes suits, blazers, leather jackets, tuxedoes, blouses, pants and skirts for both men and women. The Punjab House brand has a long history in tailoring. The house first opened shop in Lahore, Pakistan in 1889, originally making uniforms for the British army. Today, Punjab House has expanded to Hong Kong, and in London under the Apsley label. As many as 95 percent of the customers walk into Punjab House knowing little about tailor-made suits. Punjab House’s manager Shareen Khan explains that Punjab House tries to make the first-time experience a little easier. “It’s how to connect yourself with the people,” Khan says. Since some of Punjab House’s customers are travelers who will only stay in Hong Kong for a few days, the shop expedites the orders so the suits will

Shopping Centers APM — In the center of Kwun Tong, APM opens late (11am) but closes even later (2am). It boasts 150 shops, a cinema, more than 20 international restaurants and a convenient link to the MTR station. Millennium City 5, 418 Kwun Tong Rd., Kwun Tong, 3148-1200. ELEMENTS — Two floors and a million square feet of retail heaven beneath Hong Kong’s tallest building, the ICC, this luxury mall offers international cuisine and world-class shopping. Other features include a cinema, ice rink and enormous roof garden. 1 Austin Rd. West, West Kowloon, 2735-5234.

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HARBOUR CITY — This enormous stretch of shops runs along Canton Road for what seems like miles. Its four levels of shops, services and restaurants sprawl across over 2 million square feet. 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2118-8601. HYSAN PLACE — This brand-new mall is a great one-stop shopping destination, with over 120 stores (including hard-to-find Japanese brands) and tons of high-quality dining options. 500 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2886-7222. IFC MALL — This popular shopping center is home to more than 200 international high-end brands with Lane Crawford acting as an anchor. It also has a luxurious cinema, and some of the finest dining in the city. Easily accessible via

be completed within a 24-hour period. They also take orders over the internet and since most of the clients return to Punjab House for their second and third tailor-made suits, all they need to do is let Punjab House know who they are and when they will be in Hong Kong. The price range varies greatly, depending on what the clients want. Some of the suits go for as low as $2,000, which is more affordable for those who don’t want to spend as much on their first suit. Clients tend to experiment with a less expensive suit their first time, to see what the tailor-made experience is like, and eventually become more adventurous and devoted customers. It normally takes three fittings to make the perfect suit: one at the very beginning, one before the suit is finished, and a final fitting after the suit is finished. What are you waiting for? Unit 5C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612.

MTR, Airport Express and Star Ferry. 8 Finance St., Central, 2295-3308. HORIZON PLAZA — It may not look promising but this is something of a mecca for bargain fashion, furniture and Chinese antiques. The industrial high-rise features Lane Crawford and Joyce outlets. Also look for homeware emporium Tequila Kola and antiques warehouse Shambala. 2 Lee Wing St., Ap Lei Chau, 2554-9089. ISLAND BEVERLEY — Browse through closetsized boutiques offering the best of hip local designers. 1 Great George St., Causeway Bay, 2890-6823.


Tel: 2730 1251


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ShopS+Services | The Guide THE LANDMARK — The Landmark is a fashion mecca centered around a five-story atrium. Don’t miss iconic London department store Harvey Nichols or upscale supermarket. 115 Queen’s Rd. Central, 2921-2199.

Shops, Boutiques and Local Designers Amours Antiques — Antique jewelry and vintage clothes. 45 Staunton St., Central, 2803-7877. Blanc de Chine — Modern Chinese luxury clothing and accessories for women and men. Shop 123, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Rd., Central, www.blancdechine.com.

Langham Place

LANGHAM PLACE — Occupying about 600,000 square feet, Langham Place houses fashion and lifestyle stores and more than 20 restaurants. It’s within walking distance of the Ladies’ Market and Fa Yuen Street. 8 Argyle St., Mongkok, 3520-2800, www.langhamplace.com.hk.

Daydream Nation — A locally grown label that incorporates fashion with other art forms like theater, dance, music, film and visual arts. They offer their own collection of clothing and accessories as well as works from local artists and indie bands. Daydream Nation Circus Shop, 2/F, Hong Kong Arts Centre, 2 Harbour Rd., Wan Chai, 2817-6313. Another store at K11 in Tsim Sha Tsui.

Joyce boutique

JOYCE — Named after founder and Hong Kong’s first lady of fashion, Joyce Ma, this is the place for red-hot fashion and accessories, cult beauty brands and too-chic housewares. G/F, New World Tower, 18 Queen’s Rd. Central, 28101120; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2523-5944; Shop 106, Harbour City, 2-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-8128.

LEE GARDENS — Divided into Lee Gardens and Lee Gardens Two, this luxury mall is stuffed with high-end retailers such as Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and more. Lee Gardens Two has children’s fashion shops, and there are plenty of restaurants to choose from. 18 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 2907-2166, www.leegardens.com.hk.

G.O.D.

G.O.D. — Some “Goods of Desire” for those searching for the perfect couch or unique home accessories. G-1/F, 48 Hollywood Rd., Central, 2805-1876, www.god.com.hk. Harvey Nichols at Pacific Place

PACIFIC PLACE — One of the most popular malls in Hong Kong, Pacific Place has four floors of upscale shops and restaurants anchored by a massive Harvey Nichols. There’s also a nice range of eateries and a multi-screen cinema. 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2844-8988. PRINCE’S BUILDING — Prince’s Building is linked by covered walkway to The Landmark, Chater House, Alexandra House and The Galleria. A cozy mixture of the uber-fashionable, the artistic and the maternal, it also houses the excellent Oliver’s supermarket. 10 Chater Rd., Central, 2500-0555. One Peking ROAD — Satisfy your thirst for designer wear with Dior, Fendi, Miu Miu and Cartier. 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. Rise Shopping Arcade — A playground for hip, trendy and young fashionistas. 5-11 Granville Circuit, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2363-0301. TIMES SQUARE — One of Hong Kong’s largest malls, this 16-story complex contains more than 230 shops—including Lane Crawford, upscale Japanese supermarket City’super, Page One books and a cinema. 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay, 2118-8900.

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Kapok — Offers meticulously selected international and local brands for menswear, womenswear, bags and accessories, as well as lifestyle products. G/F, 5, St Francis Yard Wan Chai, 2549-9254.

Lane Crawford

LANE CRAWFORD — This Hong Kong institution is almost as old as the city itself, and just as fashionable. It’s stacked with musthave designer brands as well as handbags, shoes, silver, linen, crystal and everything in between. 3/F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central, 2118-3388.

SPY Henry Lau — Edgy and bold fashion for men and women. 1/F, 5 Cleveland St., Causeway Bay, 2317-6928, www.spyhenrylau.com. Vivienne Tam — Elegant, feminine contemporary dresses with a Chinese twist. Shop 209, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, 2918-0238. Walter Ma — Well-established designer offering luxury fashion. 16 Yiu Wa St., Causeway Bay, 2838-7655. Western Market — An Edwardian-styled building with restaurants and shops selling Chinese crafts and fabrics. 323 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Sheung Wan, 6029-2675.

Department Stores Harvey Nichols — The Hong Kong branch of London’s department store is a haven of international brands, with a good restaurant— the Fourth Floor —and a fabulous beauty department. The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Rd. Central, 3695-3388, www.harveynichols.com.

Shanghai Tang

SHANGHAI TANG — Shanghai Tang specializes in a funky fusion of traditional and contemporary Chinese design. You’ll find kitsch accessories, great housewares, fun T-shirts, fashion for men and women and incredibly beautiful bespoke cheongsams. The brand-new flagship is worth a visit. 1 Duddell St., Central, 2525-7333. SOGO — Japan’s most famous department store sits at one of the city’s busiest intersections. 555 Hennessy Rd., Causeway Bay, 2833-8338.


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The Swank

THE SWANK — Representing established designers as well as up-and-coming talents, The Swank has been one of the finest local fashion houses since 1955. It has 17 freestanding boutiques and points-of-sale in major department stores. Shop 103B, 1/F, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, 3-27 Canton Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-0842.

Chinese Emporiums CHINESE ARTS AND CRAFTS — Stuffed with the best of Chinese crafts, from tablecloths to objets d’art to some incredible jade, this is one of the best places to stock up on gifts, porcelain, jewelry, cloth and fine antiques. 1/F, Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2735-4061. YUE HWA CHINESE EMPORIUM — Yue Hwa is a great place to pick up souvenirs and gifts, from acupuncture needles to Chinese Zodiac figurines. There is a good selection of cheongsams, tops and trousers tailored from quality silk. 143-161 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2739-3888.

Tailors DAVID FASHION — G/F, Shop 15, Empress Plaza, 17-19 Chatham Rd. South, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-6884. LA ELITE FASHION — G/F, 1 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2368-0040. L & K Custom Tailor — G/F, Mirador Mansion, 54-64 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2369-7278. Nita Fashion — G/F, 16 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui. 2721-9990, www.nitafashions.com. Punjab House — 5/F, Suite C, Golden Crown Court, 66-70 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-6612, www.punjabhouse.com.hk. Raja Fashion — G/F, 34C Cameron Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2366-7624, www.rajafashions.com. REGAL fashion — LG/F, Shop 8 & 9, Houston Centre, 63 Mody Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-6007. Sam’s Tailor — Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2367-9423. Shaniel Custom Tailor — G/F, Shop B & C, Comfort Building, 86-88A Nathan Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 2730-1287.

September 2013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 45


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Navigate | The Guide

Tourist Information HONG KONG TOURISM BOARD — The Hong Kong Tourism Board is ready to answer all your questions about travel in Hong Kong. Look for visitor centers at the following locations: Hong Kong International Airport (at Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1); Lo Wu (Arrival Hall, 2/F Lo Wu Terminal Building); Kowloon (Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui, open daily 8am-8pm); and The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria, Hong Kong Island, open daily 9am-9pm). You can also call their Visitor Hotline (2508-1234) from 9am to 6pm. Visit www.discoverhonghong.com for descriptions of attractions plus shopping, dining and touring tips. The website also has a comprehensive description of the month’s events and festivals as well as virtual tours, e-cards, a photo gallery and handy downloadable apps for your phone.

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Get Moving

Octopus Cards

Hong Kong has a great public transportation system called the MTR, as well as highly punctual, carefully scheduled buses (with their routes clearly printed in English). Renting a car can be a headache because roads can be confusing and parking costly. It’s cheaper and easier to take a taxi, ferry, tram, bus, hotel limousine, or even a helicopter.

These are “wave-and-go” stored-value cards used across all of Hong Kong’s transportation systems (apart from taxis), and in retail outlets like car parks and convenience stores.

Taxis Taxis are readily available at reasonable prices. Be aware that drivers cannot pick up or drop off on roads marked with double yellow lines, and no waiting is allowed except on unmarked roads. Red taxis serve Hong Kong Island and Kowloon and can go anywhere in the territory. Green taxis cost less but only serve the New Territories. Similarly, blue taxis serve Lantau Island only. Drivers generally speak some English but it is wise to get the hotel staff to write your destination in Chinese characters, or point to one of the destinations in this guide.

The size of a credit card, the Octopus is simply placed on the touch pads at the entrance to public transportation or the cash register in shops. Payment is automatically deducted. Cards can be refilled at MTR stations and any retail outlet that accepts them. Three types of Octopus cards are available. The “On Loan Octopus” costs $150, which includes a $50 deposit and $100 of stored value. The “Sold Octopus” costs $48, and does not include any stored value. The “Airport Express Travel Pass” costs $220/$300 and includes one/two single Airport Express journeys and three days of unlimited rides on the MTR, $20 stored value and a $50 deposit.

Trams have been a part of Hong Kong life for more than 100 years. With a $2.30 flat fare, they are still the cheapest way to get around.

46 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013


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West Side Story Enjoy a meal by the harbor and a relaxing massage in Kennedy Town. By Christopher Cheung

Bistro du Vin

Kennedy Town harbor

Pastry Heaven Boulangerie Bistronomique, situated right by the harbor, is part of a group of shops that specializes in French foods. There are a few outdoor seats where you can indulge in one of the bakery’s mouthwatering cakes. If you can’t decide, try a canele ($18), a traditional vanillaand-rum cake from Bordeaux. Boulangerie Bistronomique, G/F, Grand Fortune Mansion, 1 Davis St., 2872-0811.

Kennedy Town pool

Boulangerie Bistronomique

Fast Rub Located at the western end of Hong Kong Island and not yet accessible by MTR, Kennedy Town seems like an unlikely place for tourists to visit. But if you take the tram to the very end of the line, you will be seduced by the neighborhood’s quiet charm, the trendy restaurants that dot the streets and the unbeatable harbor setting. Stroll along Kennedy Town Praya, admire the view of Stonecutters Bridge, and be surprised by the occasional big wave that hits the jetty—and unsuspecting pedestrians.

Pass the Pasta Bresola, an intimate restaurant with a mini-bar, serves a variety of Italian dishes. Meals come with complimentary pieces of bruschetta. A separate menu of breakfasts and brunches is available on weekends and holidays. Sit by the French doors and watch the trams outside rumble past while enjoying a bottle of Italian Peroni beer or a glass of wine from the bar. Bresola, Shop D, Yue On Building, 78-86 Catchick St., 2485-2345.

48 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013

Drink Up A new kid on the block, Half & Half wine bar serves snacks like sandwiches and grilled cheese, along with beverages. It also has a small menu of starters, mains and desserts, available all day except during teatime. Half & Half, Shop G05, Sincere Western House, 42 Davis Rd., 2855-0528.

French Fare Bistro du Vin’s walls are lined with vintage French posters and genuine antiques—particularly memorable is a collection of tastevins, small cups used by wine connoisseurs in the past. Guests can sit on tall metal stools by the wooden bar table as they sample the bistro’s selection of wines. Don’t forget to also try the signature bouillabaisse ($460 for two), or coq au vin ($190). Bistro du Vin, G/F, 1D Davis St., 2824-3010.

Fancy a massage? Thai Relax is the place to go. Wind down as the masseuse relieves your tired muscles using traditional Thai methods. In addition to the Thai massage ($258 for 60 min), the shop also offers Thai herbal ball therapy ($250 for 30 min), herbal aroma body massage ($288 for 60 min) and more. Both men and women are welcome. G/F, Chi Fung Building, 62 Catchick St., Kennedy Town, 2816-2898.

Get Wet If you’re feeling a bit stuffed from eating at all the restaurants in the neighborhood, burn off all those calories at the Kennedy Town Swimming Pool. This newly built public facility houses two massive outdoor pools—one for the adults, one for the kids. Though it can get crowded on hot summer days, there are enough lockers for everyone in the changing rooms, which also have ample shower facilities. $19 per session. 2 Sai Cheung St. North, Kennedy Town, 2817-7973.


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Buses Hong Kong has two major bus companies: Kowloon Motor Bus — www.kmb.hk, 2745-4466. citybus / New World First BUS — www.nwstbus.com.hk, 2136-8888/ 2873-0818.

Sights & Attractions AVENUE OF STARS — Fans of Hong Kong movies will find their heroes’ handprints permanently etched in concrete along the Avenue of the Stars, along with a statue of martial artist Bruce Lee. Go at 8pm for the nightly Symphony of Lights. Music plays over loudspeakers here and nowhere else, although the light display can be seen from around the city. Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront.

Sam’s The Man (Just ask his customers)

Sam’s Tailor, Shop K, Burlington Arcade, 92-94 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon. Tel: (852) 2367 9423 / 2721 8375 Fax: (852) 2311 8147

HONG KONG ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GARDENS — Home to 12 endangered species, the zoo successfully breeds rare birds and orangutans. Established in 1871, the park retains all the Victorian accents from that era and is an idyllic spot in the middle of the city. Admission free. Open daily 6am-7pm. Garden Rd., Central. A staircase from Upper Albert Rd. leads to the main entrance.

BANK OF CHINA TOWER — I. M. Pei designed this 70-story building and bank headquarters to resemble stalks of bamboo. 1 Garden Rd., Central. BIG BUDDHA (大佛) — One of the world’s largest Buddhas, the Tian Tan Buddha took 12 years to build and sits on a lotus throne atop Lantau Island. The more than 200 steps to the top are open from 10am to 5:30pm daily and definitely recommended for the spectacular mountain views. Special admission tickets are available and include a vegetarian meal. Also check out the nearby Po Lin Monastery. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. CHI LIN NUNNERY—An oasis of peace in the heart of Kowloon, this graceful, wooden Buddhist nunnery is the largest building in the world to be constructed using no nails—only wooden dowels and brackets. It’s a 23,600-square-meter complex whose architectural style dates back to the Tang Dynasty, although the buildings themselves were completed in 1997. It’s centered on a courtyard filled with lotus ponds. Vegetarian food is available. 5 Chi Lin Drive, Diamond Hill, 2354-1888. CONVENTION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE — Finished in time to host the handover ceremony in July 1997, the center’s roof was designed to look like a seabird’s wings in flight. 1 Expo Drive, Wan Chai, 2582-8888. HONG KONG DISNEYLAND — Take a trip back to the 1900s on Main Street, catch a train to Fantasyland, float down the Rivers of Adventure, catch a show or blast through outer space in Tomorrowland. When you’re done charting your exotic surroundings take a moment to dine, shop or cavort with the various Disney characters who roam the park. It’s easy to get to via MTR, bus or car. See the website for transportation details. Lantau Island, 1-830-830, park. hongkongdisneyland.com. Hong Kong Dolphinwatch — Catch a glimpse of the pink dolphins, an animal so unique to these waters that it was

50 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013

named the official mascot of Hong Kong’s 1997 handover. Tours depart every Wed, Fri and Sun from the Kowloon Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui at 9am. The cruise takes up to five hours, and if no dolphins are seen, the company provides a free “go-again guarantee.” $380 for adults, $190 for children under 12 years, with proceeds going to dolphin research. Call 2984-1414 or visit www.hkdolphinwatch.com.

Man Mo Temple

MAN MO TEMPLE (文武廟) — This temple was built in 1847 to honor the God of Literature, Man Cheong, and the God of War, Mo Tai. A grade-1 historical building, it is one of biggest tourist attractions in Central. 124-126 Hollywood Rd., Sheung Wan.

Ngong Ping 360

NGONG PING 360 — Home to a theater, teahouse, nature center, cultural themed village and more, Ngong Ping 360 is best known for its 5.7-kilometer cable-car service that offers panoramic views of Lantau Island’s lush valleys, the South China Sea and the world-famous Tian Tan Buddha. Take the MTR to Tung Chung Station and walk five minutes to the cable-car terminal. OPEN-TOP BUS TOUR — One Big Bus day tour ticket includes 24 hour hop-on-hop-off access to the red tour (Hong Kong Island) and the blue tour (Kowloon), as well as prerecorded commentary in 10 languages and other perks. Unit KP-38, 1/F, Kowloon Star Ferry Pier, Tsim Sha Tsui, 3102-9021. ST. JOHN’S CATHEDRAL (聖約翰座堂) — A beautiful cathedral built in the shape of a cross. Open daily from 7am to 6pm for quiet prayer and meditation. Take the MTR to Central.


Navigate

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Peak Tram

PEAK TRAM AND VICTORIA PEAK — The world’s steepest funicular railway hauls passengers up Victoria Peak in approximately eight minutes. Once at the top, enjoy panoramic views of the city, or check out the restaurants, shops and various attractions at the Peak Galleria and Peak Tower. The tram runs daily 7am-midnight, tickets $28 one-way, $40 round trip. Bus No. 15C runs between Peak Tram lower terminus and Central, near the Star Ferry. It costs $4.20 for a single journey. Garden Road and Cotton Tree Drive, 2522-0922. SIK SIK YUEN WONG TAI SIN TEMPLE — This active Buddhist temple is large and colorful with beautiful adjoining gardens. Have your fortune told by palm readers in the main arcade. Open 7am-5:30pm. A small donation is expected. Follow signs from Wong Tai Sin MTR stop. 2327-8141.

Star Ferry

STAR FERRY (天星小輪) — Cross Victoria Harbour between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon Peninsula on the Star Ferry. These open-deck ferries are one of Hong Kong’s most recognizable attractions and a common, cheap—and pleasant—form of transportation. Take the MTR to Central or Tsim Sha Tsui and follow the signs. TEN THOUSAND BUDDHAS MONASTERY — One of the most celebrated monasteries in Hong Kong, the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery actually has more than 12,800 Buddhas stored in three temples, four pavilions and a five-story pagoda. The one that you’re likely to remember best is the mummified Buddhist monk Yuet Kai, who sits in splendor, coated in gold leaf, inside a glass case. Light meals are served at the on-site vegetarian restaurant. Sha Tin MTR, Exit B, 2691-1067, www.10kbuddhas.org. TAI O — This charming fishing village is a maze of stilt houses built over a creek on the very tip of Lantau Island. It’s a fascinating slice of old Hong Kong, with dried fish stalls, the picturesque Tin Hau Temple and a couple of interesting little museums. Take a ferry from Central. September 2013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 51


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Walking Tours | The Guide Start at the Shau Kei Wan MTR station’s Exit C and walk along Mong Lung Street. Turn left onto Kam Wa Street, where the tram line ends. Shing Wong Temple is adjacent to it. (Or take a tram to the Shau Kei Wan terminus to start the tour.)

Shing Wong Temple The temple was built in 1877 and was originally called Fook Tak Chi. In 1974, a new front gate was added, giving the impression of a temple within a temple, and it was renamed Shing Wong. Open 8am-5pm. Walk along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East to Sai Yun Lane. Turn right for the Tin Hau Temple.

Tin Hau Temple This small temple dates back to 1873 and is dedicated to the goddess of the sea and a number of lesser deities. There is a pair of stone lions outside the temple, and inside you’ll find a collection of well-preserved murals, wood carvings and Shek Wan pottery. Open 8am-5pm. Walk along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East, and turn right on Basel Road to see Tsung Tsin Church.

Tsung Tsin Church This church was built in 1862 by local Hakkas with the help of priests from the Swiss Basel Church. When the Japanese invaded in 1941, it served as the temporary headquarters of the Japanese military police. After the war, the church was rebuilt, a school was added in 1958 and the church proper was further expanded in 1990. Continue along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East to A Kung Ngam Village Road. Follow the directional signs to Yuk Wong Temple. Dragon dancers celebrating the birthday of Tam Kung, held on April 28 this year

Follow the Temples In olden times, Shau Kei Wan provided a haven for ships and served as a typhoon shelter for fishermen. Over the years, the area became a center for shipbuilding, and a number of temples were constructed and dedicated to popular fishing community deities such as Tin Hau and Tam Kung. You can still visit them today, and they provide great color during local festivals. 52 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013

Yuk Wong Temple Yuk Wong is credited with saving lives and fixing flooding problems. This temple was originally a shrine built in the mid-19th century by people from mainland China who worked in a nearby stone quarry. In the early 1900s, the shrine was expanded into a small temple. Open 8am-5pm. Follow the directional signs and cross Tung Hei Road. Turn right and you will see the Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence in front of you.

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Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence

Museum of Coastal Defence

The Lei Yue Mun Fort was built by the British in 1887 to defend Hong Kong against invasion by sea, and is home to an intriguing exhibition of military memorabilia covering the 600 years since the Ming and Qing dynasties. It sits up high, overlooking the narrow strip of water across from Lei Yue Mun, now famous for its seafood restaurants. The museum paints a vivid picture of Britain’s readiness to defend Hong Kong against any aggressors. Open 10am-6pm Mar-Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-Feb (closed on Thursdays). Free admission on Wednesdays. Call 2569-1500. Walk back along Tam Kung Temple Road and follow the directional signs to the Tam Kung Temple.

Tam Kung Temple One of the few deities known only to Hong Kong, Tam Kung is also a patron of fishermen. This temple is over 100 years old and was renovated in 2002; the original design was preserved. Besides the statue of Tam Kung, there is a small wooden junk boat and a dragon boat inside the temple. Open 8am-5pm.

For more Hong Kong walks visit www.discoverhongkong.com or call the HKTB hotline at 2508-1234.

September 2013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 53


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加里Ln 交 September 2013 I WHERE H ONG KONG 57 ross d C R d o o 跑馬地運動 W


Y

30 Things we LOve about Hong Kong 1

!4

8

!0

1 Count the Ten Thousand

9 Shaking fortune-telling

Buddhas at this peaceful hilltop monastery near Sha Tin.

bamboo sticks at the Wong Tai Sin Temple.

2 Dressing up for high tea at

!0 Saying hi to Bruce Lee at the Avenue of Stars, Tsim Sha Tsui.

The Peninsula. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2315-3169.

3 Watching the sunset from tranquil Pui O Beach, Lantau Island.

4 Having our palms read at the Temple Street night market, Yau Ma Tei.

5 Spotting endangered white dolphins with Dolphinwatch off Lantau Island, 2984-1414.

6 Seeing all your animated favorites come to life at Hong Kong Disneyland, Lantau Island, 1830-830.

7 Dining aboard the kitschy-cool Jumbo Floating Restaurant. Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, 2553-9111.

8 Cruising Victoria Harbour on the Duk Ling, an authentic Chinese fishing junk, 2573-5282.

@1

!1 Shopping at Times Square, 1 Matheson St., Causeway Bay. !2 Eating with the locals at a dai pai dong food stall. Gough Street, Central. !3 Hiking around the beautiful Sai Kung Peninsula. !4 Riding the cable car 5.7 kilometers over Lantau’s lush valleys to visit the Tian Tin Buddha (Big Buddha). !5 Haggling with hawkers for jade, gold and cheap jewelry at the Jade Market. Kansu and Battery Streets, Yau Ma Tei.

!8 Snaking through the high-rises on the Mid-Levels Escalator—the longest in the world. Cochrane, Shelley and Peel Streets, Central. !9 Meeting Pui Pui, our famous crocodile, at the eco-friendly Hong Kong Wetland Park. Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 2708-8885. @0 Taking the Peak Tram to visit Hong Kong celebrities at Madame Tussauds. Shop P10, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Rd., 2849-6966. @1 Exploring Lamma Island, then feasting on deep-fried squid at Rainbow Seafood. 16-24 First St., Sok Kwu Wan, Lamma Island, 2982-8100.

@2 Marveling at the beautiful Chi Lin Nunnery, the world’s largest building to be constructed !6 Queing for coveted dim sum without nails. 5 Chi Lin Drive, at Tim Ho Wan, 2-8 Kwong Wah Diamond Hill, Kowloon. St., Mong Kok, 2332-2896. @3 Taking the oldest ride in Hong !7 Setting your watch by the Kong—a tram from Western Noonday Gun. 221 Gloucester District to Causeway Bay. Rd. (opposite The Excelsior), Causeway Bay.

58 W H E R E HONG KONG I S eptember 2013

@9

@4 Enjoying free traditional kung fu demonstrations and cultural performances at Kowloon Park every Sunday from 2:30-4:30pm, weather permitting. @5 Taking a romantic trip from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui on the famous Star Ferry. @6 Taking a walk down the Historic Trail at the Museum of Coastal Defence, 2569-1500. @7 Drinking in the view at panoramic bar Aqua Spirit. 30/F, One Peking, 1 Peking Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui, 3427-2288. @8 Checking out the old Kowloon-Canton Railway Corporation clocktower. Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. @9 Getting a shave and a trim at the Mandarin Barber. 5 Connaught Rd., Central, 2522-0111. #0 Bird-watching at the Mai Po Marshes, Mai Po, 2526-4473.


Arch Angel Authenticated museum quality Asian antiquities. 53/55 Hollywood Road • Central • Hong Kong • Tel: (852) 2851 6848 • Fax: (852) 2851 6778 • Open Daily: 9:30-6:30 Email: antiques@ArchAngelAntiques.com.hk


WHERE Hong Kong - September 2013  

Book yourself into a hot new restaurant while you’re in town.

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