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Imperial Stouts • Ken Beattie • Kerilyn Faulkner • Vertical Integration • Tasting Rooms • Lager • Cider cocktails • Beeronomics

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Winter 2018-19 VOL.28 ISSUE 4 Cover: Montevarious

Y A D I L HO I D E U G T F I G


WINTER 2018-19 VOL.28 ISSUE 4

THE JOURNAL OF BC'S CRAFT BEER MOVEMENT

BC Craft Brewers Guild Executive Director Ken Beattie: profiled on page 12

CONTENTS SPECIAL FEATURES 06

BEER ME BC PEOPLE'S CHOICE AWARDS 2018

23

THE BC CRAFT BEER HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

EDITORIAL 11

TASTING ROOMS: THE IMPORTANCE OF CRAFTING EXPERIENCE

21

VERTICAL INTEGRATION: WE DO THE MATH

39

A VIEW FROM THE CELLAR: THE RETURN OF LAGER

COMMUNITY 12

A GUILDED EXISTENCE: THE CAREER OF KEN BEATTIE, PART I

18

BEERTOGRAPHY: A WINTER'S TALE

40

TORCHLIGHT BREWING'S KERILYN FAULKNER

BEER IQ & BREWING 32

GLORIOUS REVOLUTION: THE TASTING PANEL REVIEWS RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUTS

36

HOMEBREW HAPPENIN'S: BREWING IMPERIAL STOUTS

47

BEERONOMICS: HOW BEER EXPLAINS THE WORLD

BC BEER BEAT: REGIONAL REPORTS

What's Brewing Produced by Line49 Design Group Inc. 300-1275 West 6th Avenue Vancouver BC V6H 1A6 info@whatsbrewing.ca www.whatsbrewing.ca Social: @whatsbrewingbc Editorial Group Editor & Publisher: Dave Smith Co-Editor: Paul Morris Associate Production Editor: Navin Autar Copy Editors: Wendy Barron, Ivana Smith Contact: editor@whatsbrewing.ca Hopline & Newsroom Associate Editor, Events: Edward Kaye Contact: events@whatsbrewing.ca Associate Editor, Newsroom: Navin Autar Contact: newsroom@whatsbrewing.ca Contributors: Mike Ansley, Adam Arthur, Warren Boyer, Adam Chatburn, Ted Child, Lundy Dale, Kim Lawton, Stewart 'Scottie' McLellan, Jeff Nairn, Mathieu Poirier, J. Random, Brian K. Smith, Paddy Treavor, Carnell Turton, Malcolm Yates Chief Photographer: Brian K. Smith Illustrator: Emile Compion @montevarious Distribution & Booth Operations: Paul Morris, Jack Enwright Web & Admin: Navin Autar, Ligia Margaritescu, Susan Jones

42

PENTICTON: A CRAFT BEER TOWN

44

EXCITING TIMES IN NORTHERN BC

44

NEW CRAFT PUB COMES TO POWELL RIVER

Advertising & Corporate Sales Vancouver Island: Ian Webb sales@whatsbrewing.ca

46

OUT & ABOUT IN VICTORIA, FALL 2018

© 2018 What's Brewing


BEER ME BC PEOPLE'S CHOICE AW

6TH ANNUAL BC CRAFT BEER SURVEY RESULTS! In November, What's Brewing's sister website Beer Me BC released its sixth annual BC Craft Beer Survey. Since 2013, the survey has provided insights about the state of craft beer in BC, including the preferences, opinions and demographics of you, the BC craft beer fan. Each year’s results are published online, resulting in really interesting insights like this round's six-year trend comparison. Without further ado, we present the 2018 Beer Me BC People's Choice Awards, based on input from over 1200 respondents!

BEST BC CRAFT BREWERY 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Phillips Brewing & Malting Field House Brewing Brassneck Brewing Four Winds Brewing Yellow Dog Brewing

Veteran Phillips Brewing, BC's largest craft brewer, still pulls down the votes from BC's beer-loving public. Comparative minnows Brassneck and Field House are right there with them.

BEST NEW BC CRAFT BREWERY 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Beere Brewing Electric Bicycle Brewing Île Sauvage Brewing Taylight Brewing Northpaw Brewing

North Vancouver's Beere opened their doors in late 2017, but due to popular demand they top this year's list of rookies. Electric Bicycle takes top honours for those with a 2018 debut.

BEST BC CRAFT BEER 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Driftwood Fat Tug IPA Hoyne Dark Matter Backcountry Windowmaker IPA Superflux Colour & Shape IPA Red Racer IPA

Once again a stalwart wins. But check out the votes for relative upstarts Backcountry and Superflux. Notice that four out of five are IPAs?

Canada's Original Dedicated Beer Radio Show:

Just Here for the Beer with Joe Leary and Rick Mohabir

Saturdays + Sundays on TSN 1040 Listen online: www.tsn1040.ca


WARDS 2018 BEST SPRING/ SUMMER BEER 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Red Racer India Session Ale Bomber Brewing Park Life Parallel 49 Tricycle Radler Fuggles & Warlock Gin & Lime Pilsner Stanley Park Sunsetter

Central City popularized the ISA in BC, and it's a monster seller for them. But this category shows remarkable diversity.

BEST FALL/WINTER BEER 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Granville Island Lions Winter Ale Driftwood Sartori Harvest Fresh Hop IPA Vancouver Island Brewing Hermannator Ice Bock Whistler Brewing Chestnut Ale Driftwood Singularity Imperial Stout

Here again the survey's open-ended nature mixes fall and winter beers. Some of BC's most venerable seasonal beers show up on this list.

BEST PACKAGING DESIGN 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Driftwood Brewery Parallel 49 Brewing Phillips Brewing & Malting Superflux Beer Company Four Winds Brewing

The award-winning Driftwood series by Hired Guns Creative is quick on the draw and wins yet another label design shootout.

BEST BC CRAFT BEER EVENT 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Great Canadian Beer Festival Vancouver Craft Beer Week Farmhouse Festival Okanagan Fest of Ale BC Beer Awards

After 26 years, GCBF is beloved by BC beer fans. But much younger Farmhouse Fest has been a strong contender since its debut in 2015. These People's Choice picks are just the beginning. Visit leading BC craft beer website BeerMeBC.com for statistics and analysis regarding BC beer fan tastes and demographics, plus trends from the last six years' worth of results! Go to www.beermebc.com

COMMUNITY SUPPORTERS Many thanks to these supporters who help bring What's Brewing to you! Find a printed copy at whatsbrewing.ca/find


VA N C O U V E R B R E W E R Y T O U R

GIFT CERTIFICATES HAVE A BEER LOVER ON YOUR LIST? Just in time for the holiday season, brewery tour gift certificates make the perfect experience gift for the beer loving friends, family and co-workers in your life. Visit us online to grab one today VA N C O U V E R B R E W E RY T O U R S .C O M /S H O P

I N FO@VA N CO U V E R B R E W E RY TO U RS.CO M | 6 0 4 318 228 0 | VA N CO U V E R B R E W E RY TO U RS.CO M


VOTED BEST NEW BREWERY AND BEST TASTING ROOM IN BC AT THE 2018 BRITISH COLUMBIA BEER AWARDS

GERMAN PILS German Pilsner

AMBER GERMAN BEER Vienna Lager

STRONG BELGIAN ALE Belgian Blond

STRONG ALE Barleywine

2nd Place

2nd Place

2nd Place

3rd Place


TASTING ROOMS

THE BEERRATER | editorial

The Importance of Crafting

Experience

W

ith an infinite amount of information at our fingertips and the ability to contact almost anyone via social media, it has never been easier to reach someone. But being in contact is not the same thing as making a connection. So why are many breweries struggling to connect with their customers? In this digital age, it makes sense that breweries rely on digital marketing strategies. These usually involve throwing dollars at catchy names and beautifully-designed labels on cans, bottles, and growlers in an attempt to outshine the competition. While packaging is still very important for brand recognition and Instagram likes, great artwork by itself doesn’t help create brand loyalty. This is not to say that great artwork and packaging doesn’t sell; sexy will always sell. The problem with sexy is that there is always something sexier around the corner. The goal of good marketing is to create meaningful, lasting relationships with customers, going beyond just occasional visits. Customers who feel an emotional connection to a brewery will visit the brewery again and again, seek out its products in the store, and recommend them to friends. The most effective way to create an emotional connection for customers is with human interaction. And the ideal place to have that interaction is in brewery tasting rooms. Humans are a social species, with a natural desire to connect to others. Recent studies show that experiences help people connect better with their friends, their community, and the environment around them. People want to spend money on doing things with others. In fact, studies and surveys show that most people would rather spend money on an experience or event than on buying material objects. A tasting room is a “live experiential” marketing strategy. It is the place where consumers can experience a brewery’s ethos and connect to it in person. It’s where all the facets of a brand’s “personality” come together. This may sound obvious, but few

>> MIKE ANSLEY

breweries actually take this into consideration; many treat the tasting room as a design afterthought. Marketing differentiates between a place and a space. A place is a physical area that exists; it becomes a space when a person or group develops an emotional connection to the place. Spaces are where regular customers turn into passionate, raving fans. Brand loyalty happens in spaces. Every brewery with a tasting room provides a place to drink their beer. The breweries that give people an opportunity to connect see their carefully-curated places become beloved spaces. Every element of the place—the artwork, the music choices, the entertainment, the staff, even the glassware—contributes to the creation of a “space”. People in a successful brewery space feel emotionally connected with one another, their community, and, most importantly, the brewery itself. This emotional connection is more powerful than any sexy design on a store shelf. The connected customer’s purchasing criteria is no longer about how great the label looks, but on how that beer makes them feel—how it brings back the feeling they had in the tasting room that time. Statistically, customers who have a great experience in such a space don’t just purchase a brand’s product more often, they spend approximately 140% more than people who have a neutral experience or a bad experience with a brand. The craft beer industry is getting more competitive. Space on store shelves and in consumers’ minds is finite and can only be divided up so many times . There will be shifts in beer styles, packaging, and who knows what. The only constant is the human desire to create and maintain meaningful connections. Breweries that understand this and focus on their tasting room experience will be the ones that weather the storm.

Mike Ansley By day, Mike works in marketing (was it obvious?). By night, Mike's alter ego The Beerrater offers TP-WhatsBrewing-Red-Ad2-1.pdf 1 2017-08-13 an unfiltered view on the world of craft beer.6:55 PM

W I N T E R 2018-19 WHAT'S BREWING 11


Ken Beattie. Photo: Brian K. Smith


WHAT’S BREWING BIOGRAPHY | profile

A GUILDED EXISTENCE The Career of Ken Beattie, Part I >> DAVE SMITH

baseball. They drove around in a van that looked like a two-four pack on wheels.

he Executive Director of the BC Craft Brewers Guild has made a career of being in the right place at the right time. He’s the guy who never needed a resume, because every major position he’s been hired for was through networking and reputation. That only happens if you can get along with folks, and Ken learned how to do that early; you could say his ability to connect with people and make them comfortable is hereditary. And now he might just be the most influential person in BC beer.

As an SFU student, Beattie was able to get exposure for Molson in the school via activities like a comedy night he spearheaded. Then for a while, he was the Moosehead guy at SFU. His biggest responsibility: constantly wear a Moosehead jacket around campus. He even managed to get Moosehead into the SFU pub. All the while he was still working at the Richmond Keg (which had become The Boathouse).

T

Kenneth Beattie was born in 1962 to parents of Scottish heritage. He was the youngest of four boys, with a five-year age gap separating him from his three brothers. As the junior in a run of siblings, he was subjected to excellent preparation for a career involving fighting for his territory and rolling with life’s punches. In Ken's family, open communication was emphasized. Take, for example, the way dinners worked in the Beattie household: as a matter of course, all family members would make themselves present at the table after their father Oliver got home, and conversation was not just commonplace, it was mandatory. Oliver Beattie would go around the table and ask each boy how his day was, and they were expected to provide a meaningful answer. The senior Beattie was a ship’s fitter who proudly carried a lunchbox to work every day, so some table talk centered around the union aspect of his workplace. The kids were encouraged to ask questions about the parts they didn’t understand. Their mother Eda was a talkative person with a great sense of humour, and she would interject regularly. The empowerment to speak, to share an opinion, to ask a question without fear of embarrassment and to have people pay attention to you were no doubt foundational factors in young Ken’s development. Another factor was sports. By the time he was sixteen Ken had begun playing adult rugby, and the connections he made through this led to two jobs that shaped his career. In the early 1980s Beattie took a job at The Keg’s Richmond North location, across the bridge from his childhood stomping grounds in Vancouver’s Marpole neighbourhood. There, he found that building relationships with clientele came naturally. Working the tables, he learned that each had its own story. Some were all laughs, and they were happy to talk to you. Some were about romance, and they were focussed on each other. Sometimes it was an argument, and now they wanted you to be the referee. The ability to read people and think on his feet made Beattie a better server. Those abilities would pay off during a lifelong career around people and beer. By 1986, Ken was 24 and in school at SFU, studying Media & Communications. One of Ken’s contacts from the rugby team had an interesting summer job that year: working at Molson in an intern-like position. Ken thought that sounded really good. The next year the friend moved on and space opened up for a new recruit. Ken was able to grab that 1987 summer position and soon found himself alongside Molson’s sales reps doing things like setting up displays and working events, from airshows to slow pitch

Ken enjoyed his studies and was starting to lean towards a career in sales & marketing, with a goal to go into business at some point. But near the end of 1988, Beattie was offered a golden opportunity: a full-time job with Molson. The dilemma: he was two electives short of completing his diploma. Back then, there was no online school to lean on, so leaving SFU to join the workforce was a serious decision. Beattie made his choice and took the job. Finishing his studies would have to wait for a different chapter in his career.

MOLSON MAN Until this point, our twenty-six-year-old protagonist had never resided outside a major city. But in most walks of life, you don’t start at the top. If you’re a doctor or policeman, you might find yourself serving a smaller community for many years before you’re assigned a beat in the big city. That goes for sales territories too. That’s why Ken Beattie found himself carving out a career selling cold beer in the Prince George ice and snow. Ken feels that learning the ropes in PG was not a bad way to start: if he messed up and lost an account, there was limited downside. But the upside turned out to be significant. “When I went to Prince George, Molson was nowhere on the map”, he shares. “I don’t usually say this, but I put it on the map.” Ken was young, single, aggressive, and he worked hard. He connected well with the people running the bars, many of which were being run by the sons and daughters of the owners, people close to his age. Some of those people are still there today. He also met a number of lifelong industry contacts, some of whom have moved into craft beer since then. But in those days, that wasn’t even a consideration. By 1991, after 18 months of impressive performance in the hinterlands, Ken was punted back to Vancouver to take on bigger responsibilities. By this time, he was seasoned and ready for the kind of challenges that awaited him. The sales territories became bigger and bigger, until he had the biggest territories around, including Kitsilano and Downtown Vancouver. For years, Beattie had the top draft account share as well as some of the very biggest draft accounts in Canada. He had the Cambie Hotel, which was an absolute monster—at times the number one draft account in the country. He had the Roxy when it was unstoppable. Back in the day, the strip bars were packed, and he had lots of those, like the Marble Arch. He had the gay bars too. Molson was his career employer, and Ken was in his glory. W I N T E R 2018-19 WHAT'S BREWING 13


WHAT’S BREWING BIOGRAPHY | profile

When you work in the beverage alcohol industry, be it at a tiny nanobrewery or a vast hospitality chain, you’re involved in what can be one of the most enjoyable trades around—at least, on the surface. When Ken was out on the street making friends and slapping backs, he was the man; a real sales stud. But even back then he knew he couldn’t last an entire career at the pace the street required, and retirement as a beer rep wasn’t his best option. So, the plan was to move up the chain and become a sales manager, hopefully the top guy in the province at some point. Beattie believed that in order to do that, he’d need to know something about marketing. So right at the peak of his powers he asked to leave all the fun behind and move into another department at Molson. At the time, local brass was focused on launching the Molson Rocks concert program, so they asked him to work on that. Then Ken moved into marketing and his title became Assistant Brand Manager for Coors Light. It was a disaster. Working at a desk wasn’t what Ken was cut out for. He lasted three months, then quit the job.

STARTING OVER The year was 1997. Almost a decade earlier, Ken had dropped out of college for full-time employment, and now he had left that behind too. In need of work, he accepted a position from friends who owned The Met Hotel in New Westminster. As General Manager he was responsible for the day-to-day operations of a 30-room boutique hotel and 150-seat pub. The job promised some sweat equity, but the hours were tough. Around this time Ken met his future wife Marla. He knew that the hotel business wasn’t conducive to a married life, and he needed to make a move. Naturally, he went back to enquire at Molson. At the time, they were creating a position called National Chain Account, which seemed like a nice one to land: looking after key Western-based hospitality accounts like Sandman Hotel and Earl’s. But before that went anywhere, a friend’s chance conversation led to something else. Near where Ken used to live was a watering hole known as the Penny Lane Pub. One day Steve Knight, at the time Sleeman Breweries’ Director of Sales & Marketing for Western Canada, was in the pub telling the owner Brian Hunter that he needed to hire someone. Sleeman was planning to add a new District Sales Manager position under Knight to run their Okanagan Spring division sales team. Hunter was a friend of Ken’s. Knowing the situation, he shared that Beattie might be looking for a change. Knight knew who Ken was and called up right away to say, “I know you’re looking at Molson, but I think you should come have a beer with me.” After a couple of beers at that meeting, Steve told Ken he had the job. The only formality: he’d have to meet Sleeman’s Western Canada President Rick Knudsen for a final approval. Unbeknownst to Beattie, at this second step he was subjected to something called the Chicken Wing Test. Ken explains, “He orders chicken wings and you both order some beers. Then after a few beers he sees how you react.” It was a gut-check interview method Knudson employed to find out how someone behaved under the influence. If a new candidate couldn’t handle the alcohol, they couldn’t handle the job. After a few beers, Ken started to ask an earnest question: “If I’m the likely candidate...” Knudson retorted, “You kidding me? You’re f**king hired. Here are three things I need you to do.”

14 WHAT'S BREWING W I N T E R 2018-19

OKANAGAN SPRUNG Ken Beattie re-entered beer sales on January 2nd, 2000—comfortably a day after Y2K. He was a more well-rounded sales manager for having worked on the hospitality side of things, as a customer of the breweries for three years at The Met Hotel. Sleeman-owned Okanagan Spring was doing well, and Ken’s sales team quickly expanded from around 10 to 25 people. Sleeman’s Honey Brown Lager was huge at the time, and Ken reasoned they could be helping sell that as well, but the suggestion went nowhere. Despite the Sleeman ownership, Beattie’s team was given only Okanagan Spring business cards. His job was to expand the sales of a product he used to consider a pest.

“The microbreweries are like weeds in the garden. If they start to bug us, we’ll pull them out. Back when Ken was at Molson, he dominated his Kitsilano territory. His aim was always to have 100% of all taps in the area. But at some point, he started to hear about a little brewery called Okanagan Spring. In those early days, OK Spring co-founder Buko von Krosigk once loaded up his van with as many kegs as he could and drove from its Vernon base down to Vancouver. His mission: sell those kegs, because making payroll depended on it.  Once consumers had a taste of his micro-brewed beer called “Pale Ale”, it worked. Ken noticed when a pub would put in a tap; there’s one at Bimini’s. Now it’s Darby’s. Now it’s The Pit Pub. His thought was, “Hey, they’re not allowed to do that, are they?” His Molson boss wasn’t concerned. He retorted, “Ken! They [the microbreweries] are like weeds in the garden. If they start to bug us, we’ll pull them out. Don’t worry about it.” Little did he know Ken would one day work for those weeds and help plant more. Ken showed more interest in the actual product planning than most sales types. At Sleeman, his group had a lot of input into the creation of OK Spring’s 1516 Lager, Porter and Black Lager. Ken still feels to this day that Okanagan Spring’s dark beers are outstanding. After a time, Ken moved up to BC provincial manager. A fellow named Jim Lister, now with Phillips Brewing & Malting, ran the Alberta territory. Jim eventually made Western Canada division leader, then left the company. Beattie recalls, “When Jim left, the position was left vacant. Nobody was hired for it.” The reason why became evident when the position was moved back East. In 2012, the three most senior people in Western Canada were let go in one cut, including Beattie. During his twelve years there, Ken had attained the type of position with Sleeman that he had originally envisioned rising to with Molson. But after 25 years in the industry, and at the age of 50 with two kids, he was back to square one again.

Next Issue: A Guilded Existence, Part II The kid from Marpole grew up to run some of the biggest sales territories in Canada for Molson and Sleeman. His career path was set for life. Then, after a quarter century, he was out of the industry. But he’d soon be back with a new purpose: leading the charge for the BC craft breweries taking a big bite out of Big Beer.


Taking steps to protect workers in craft brewing BC has seen the number of craft breweries grow from

To provide solutions for workers and employers,

54 to nearly 150 in the past decade. With rapid growth in

WorkSafeBC has created the Health and Safety for Craft

a new industry, the risk for workplace hazards can increase.

Breweries and Distilleries safety manual. With input

Slippery floors, confined spaces and carbon dioxide gases

from industry experts, the guide helps you to identify

produced during the fermentation process spaces can all

workplace hazards and develop a health and safety

pose a risk.

program. It provides ways to manage and eliminate the

In the last five years, there were 515 WorkSafeBC time-loss claims related to wine and beer-making injuries: thirty-three per cent of those resulted from strain and over-exertion, while 21 per cent were a result of falls on the same level or from a height.

Most common causes of injuries in craft brewing There’s a lot going on in a brewery, from the mash tun to the bottling line. The majority of injuries are caused by: • Overexertion, including sprains and strains due to heavy lifting and repetitive motion • Carbon dioxide exposure — (an odourless, colourless gas) that is a particular risk inconfined spaces and requires a CO2 monitor to measure safe levels • Physical hazards such as temperature extremes, pressurized equipment, and moving parts

risks commonly found in the craft brewing industry and includes summaries of requirements, health and safety checklists, and answers to frequently asked questions. You will also find additional resources to help you and your workers stay safe in the workplace.

Keeping your workers healthy and safe As an employer, you have an obligation under the Occupational Health and Safety Regulation to ensure the health and safety of your workers. This includes establishing a health and safety program, providing training and personal protective equipment, and identifying risks and taking steps to reduce or eliminate them. Committing to health and safety is a great way to motivate and retain good workers. And simply put, providing a safe workplace is good for business, too. Visit worksafebc.com/manufacturing for more craft brewing health and safety resources including the Health and Safety for Craft Breweries safety manual, posters and videos.

Help protect your workers in craft brewing

Download Health and Safety for Craft Breweries and Distilleries at worksafebc.com/manufacturing W I N T E R 2018-19 WHAT'S BREWING 17


HAVE CAMERA, WILL TRAVEL | community

-BEERTOGRAPHYPicturing a Winter's Tale

I

>> BRIAN K. SMITH

n the waning light of early evening, icy rain lashes against my window as Winter pushes out Fall. Sitting comfortably in front of a crackling fireplace in my workroom, with a favourite craft beer in hand, all feels very cosy. My 27-inch monitor does not release enough heat to make the fire seem at all real, but in a carbonresponsible society it seems perfect. As I sip my creamy black stout, I reflect on the past year, what it was, and what next year might be. If you read my column regularly, you know I have a deep passion for photography, beer, and travel. What’s Brewing Magazine, page after page, issue after issue, presents stories of passion and passionate people around the world. The origin of beer goes back thousands of years, in societies around the world. However, its history outside the Middle East and Europe dates back only to the era of European empire building. It seems that today we are seeing a hopping bloom globally of the craft at a level never before experienced. It is wonderful to travel to different continents and find delicious beers that reflect the unique local

Seriously. Dry.

palate. It is a chance to taste, and to meet passionate brewers. An opportunity to sit and chat with locals and foreigners alike while enjoying a fine glass of lager, ale, IPA, or stout inevitably arises. Being a photographer, I love to meet fellow artisans and portray them in their environment. Breweries hold a special place in my heart; all the stainless steel and steam produces dramatic backdrops for photos! The smell of grain transforming into wort, the hops added for bitterness and fragrance —all become a heady experience. The brewers standing amidst their drinkable science is the perfect fit for memorable and historic photographs. Beer photography records a time of change locally and globally. Neighbourhoods with craft breweries in them change for the better. There is more local employment and neighbourhoods become more vibrant and hospitable. Brewers are proud to know that their breweries have so many positive benefits for the surrounding residents. I recently attended the BC Craft Brewers Guild AGM and conference. There I saw many people who I've photographed for What’s Brewing or my own projects. I greet them all as friends, with a hug and a toast. Craft brewers have their own unique style and their own take on what’s new and trending in the market. The passion they pour into their craft gets poured into your glass. Being around these creative people is inspiring and everyone enjoys the experience. I find brewers very willing to be photographed and enjoy having their breweries mentioned on social media and in print. They are proud of what they do and of being part of the global craft beer renaissance. A friend suggested forming a group called Beertographers. We could meet up every two months to take a brewery tour, have a few beers, and take some pictures. The group would focus on one brewery each meeting, enjoying creativity behind the lens and on the table. And no snobbery: any camera, from a smartphone to a DSLR would be welcome. Every four months or so we could review our best photos. Some will say, ”there are already beer tours, so why do this?” This idea is different—it is about looking at the craftsmanship of a brewery and celebrating art and passion together. If you are interested, email me (brian@whatsbrewing.ca). With so many breweries populating our province, every road trip can include some beer exploration. I look forward to meeting new friends and sharing their passion in front of the camera and in the glass before me. And to all, a good night.

windfallcider.ca @windfallcider

Brian K. Smith, MPA is an accredited member of the BC Association of Travel Writers, and is Chief Photographer for What's Brewing.

W I N T E R 2018-19 WHAT'S BREWING 19


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ULLAGE & SPILLAGE | editorial

Vertical Integration:

WE DO THE MATH

A

>> J. RANDOM

s a British expat, I am highly sensitized to anything that smacks of the British “tied-house” model—in effect up to 1990—whereby virtually every English pub was owned by a brewery and served only that one brewery’s beers. As of yet, BC is not headed in that direction; so far, so good. I also don’t see BC returning to the bad old days when our pubs and restaurants sold products from a single mega-brewery, based solely on contracts and kickbacks. What I have noticed instead is the reverse trend of brewpub chains, pubs, restaurants and hospitality groups setting up or buying craft breweries to supply themselves and other outlets. The construction of Red Truck Brewing by the Mark James Group in 2005 might be considered the first of these. A few years prior to that, slotted in among their wide range of beer styles, Mark James brewpubs began test marketing the prototype Red Truck Ale and Lager. However, the new brewery was not part of MJG and was designed to serve other outlets. The real vertical-integration trendsetters were the owners of St. Augustine’s (and additional partners) who set up Parallel 49 Brewing in 2012. While P49 is renowned for putting out dozens of beers each year, only ten of sixty taps at St. Augustine’s were pouring their beers when I last checked the on-line live beer menu. I don’t think anybody could complain about lack of choice. The Steamworks Group of Companies, which besides the brewpub includes three Rogue locations in Vancouver, similarly set up a separate brewery in Burnaby in 2013, but only one in ten taps at Rogue Gastown and only one in thirty taps at Rogue Broadway were Steamworks beer when I last dropped in; hardly a dominant presence. Bomber Brewing was founded in 2014 by the owners of three Biercraft locations, but that arrangement is changing, as discussed below. According to their website, Bomber/other beer ratios were four out of twenty-four at Commercial Drive, three out of thirty-seven on Cambie and two of thirty-two at Wesbrook (UBC). So if Bomber beers are not your thing, there are plenty of others to try at Biercraft. 2014 was a big year for new restaurant-associated breweries. Dageraad Brewing was set up by the brother of the proprietor of Tangent Café (carrying four Dageraad taps of thirteen total, at my last count). Main Street Brewing was set up by owners of the Cascade Room (six of twelve, including one on handpump) along with Portland Craft (who pour zero Main Street Beers because they are a US-beer-focused bar). Perhaps one should be charitable and say this averages out at six out of twenty-eight. Even with 50% proprietary beers, the variety of styles available is a far cry from good old Bland and Bland Light, or three minor

variants on a theme of bitter ale like the tied houses of England. The Cascade Room had Main Street’s Pale Ale, IPA, Plum Porter, Pilsner, Saison, Mango-Guava Tart Ale and a sour ale on tap in late October; pretty much something for everybody, even without considering their guest beers. While there may be other restaurant-brewery linkages in other parts of BC that I am not aware of, in Vancouver the trend has continued with the establishment of East Vancouver Brewing Co. by Jennings Hospitality and Culture, owners of the London Pub (seven taps of nineteen), Two Lions (seven of eighteen), Caffe Brixton (two of ten) and The Morrissey (seven of twelve). The last of these is billed as “The official Tied House of East Van Brewing Company”, a reasonable title considering it won my prize for the highest percentage of house beers poured. This year has also seen a bump in the trend. The first I heard about was the small-scale Lightheart Brewing, set up by Lightheart Hospitality who owns the two Darby’s locations. Kits has been serving one Lightheart beer in thirty-three; Gastown, one in 30. Though the purchase of Steel Toad by the Daniel Hospitality Group (owners of the three Tap & Barrel locations) was announced early in 2018, it took a while before we saw BREWHALL beers at Tap & Barrel Olympic Village (4/25), Shipyards (5/36), and Convention Centre (5/36). Several of these brews were collaborations with other breweries. Even more recent news is the long-rumored purchase of Bomber brewing by the Donnelly Group. Up to now the Butcher and Bullock, for example, has served one Bomber beer out of twentyeight and the Railway Stage & Beer Cafe one in twenty-three. It will be interesting to see if that changes over the next few months. What next? Earls Restaurants, at least the Lower Mainland locations, have been content to have their white-label house beer (formerly known as Albino Rhino) brewed by a third party, but how long will that last? Other restaurant chains might look at the examples above and wonder whether owning a brewery could positively impact their bottom line. We may well find a few more of our more financially shaky craft breweries snapped up by restaurant chains–a good thing if the alternative choice is closing. As we have just seen: when a craft-beer-focused restaurant or bar operator with twenty or more taps owns a brewery, choice has so far not become an issue (although things could be quite different for restaurants with only one or two taps). So, no grounds for worrying about constraints on our beer choices just yet. However, if you’re a hospitality operator who’s about to expand into brewing, then in the immortal words of Sting and The Police, “I’ll Be Watching You.” J. Random is a former VP of CAMRA Vancouver, beer fan for 4 decades and occasional homebrewer. Has been penning the Ullage & Spillage column for What's Brewing since 2003.

W I N T E R 2018-19 WHAT'S BREWING 21


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Illustrations: Montevarious

SPECIAL FEATURE

Do you dread the pressure to come up with nifty gift ideas every holiday season? You're not alone. Relax. What's Brewing is here with its second annual lookbook full of ideas for your craft-loving friends and family.

Don't end up like this. Let our Gift Guide help you find gifts with the right kind of ap-peel.

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HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

TOURing & TASTING A gift card for a brewery tour is a super way to treat a loved one to a great day or night out on the town (especially if you get to come along). So are early bird beer festival tickets!

Vancouver Brewery Tours What to get for the beer lover who has all the "stuff"? How about the ultimate craft beer experience with Vancouver Brewery Tours. Gift Certificates are available for purchase in our online shop and make the perfect holiday gift. vancouverbrewerytours.com/shop

Canadian Craft Tours Give the gift of a "Locally crafted experience" with Canadian Craft Tours. Brewery & Winery tours are a great gift for that special someone who has everything. www.canadiancrafttours.ca

West Coast Brewery Tours Victoria’s original brewery tour company since 2014 has got you covered this Christmas! There are tours for everyone including Brewery, Distillery, Food & Brew, Wine & Cider. Rated Victoria’s #1 brewery tour on Tripadvisor 4 years in a row! westcoastbrewerytours.ca

The by

More BC Beer Tours

Don't forget BC's other craft beer tour operators in your area!

Vancouver : Vine and Hops Tours, Vancouver Beer and Wine Tours, and Taste Vancouver Food Tours Mid-Island:: Cheers Cowichan Tours and Vancouver Island Expeditions South Okanagan: Grape Friends, Hoodoo Adventures

24 WHAT'S BREWING W I N T E R 2018-19

Fully adjustable Beer Caddy holds any size of tasting glass


Photo: Christine MacAvoy

Vancouver Craft Beer Week Turns Ten! VCBW Festival is celebrating its 10th annual event on June 8th & 9th, 2019! Take advantage of Holiday Special and Early Bird pricing, starting at $29 for single day tickets while supplies last! vcbw.ca

Craft Beer and Wilderness Retreat! The 2nd Annual Craft Beer and Wilderness Retreat in Nootka Sound, June 8th-12th 2019, is an unforgettable all-inclusive luxury retreat experience like no other! Unplug, relax and enjoy a range of activities including fishing kayaking, dockside yoga and eco tourism. Then learn to brew craft beer with our special guests: star BC brewers from Boombox Brewing, Crannog Ales and Luppolo! Lock in your savings with an affordable deposit by Dec 25. Save $400 until Dec 25th @ craftbeerandwilderness.com

The What's Brewing Beer Caddy Because sometimes It’s Good To Be Empty-Handed! Where do lucky people at beer festivals get those amazing handsfree tasting glass holders you've seen? From us! Completely adjustable, holds any size glass from tiny taster to fullsized pint. Only $10, including tax & shipping within Canada! What a great stocking stuffer for a beer lover. whatsbrewing.ca/beercaddy

24th Annual Okanagan Fest of Ale Early Bird tickets for Fest Of Ale 2019, to be held April 12th & 13th, are on sale just in time for holiday gift giving! Perfect for every style of craft connoisseur on your list. Weekend passes only $42; Single Day only $26. Early Bird tickets on sale Dec 1st - Jan 15th @ festofale.ca

More Spring 2019 Beer Events 6th Annual Victoria Beer Week March 1-9 victoriabeerweek.com Hopwired Festival: Vancouver Feb 23 hopwiredfest.com Great Okanagan Beer Festival Kelowna May 9-11 gobf.ca


HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

seasonal Beverages Strange Fellows Brewing: The Fellowship FELLOWSHIP III - THE gift for aficionados with a taste for extraordinary beer. Includes 8 bottles of barrel-aged, vintage and exclusory limited release beers, 15% off growler fills for 1 year, 2 private events, shirt & tasting glass. strangefellowsbrewing.com/#fellowship

Check our website for my list of 12 BC winter beers your friends and family are sure to love this holiday season... plus 12 massive winter beers for the extreme beer lover in your life!

- WB Associate Editor Ed Kaye

Merridale Craft Cider Tall Cans

Granville Island Seasonal Ales! Granville Island Brewing has the perfect pairing of winter brews to gift for the holidays. For coffee lovers, there’s Mocha Porter, brewed with Coffee from local Vancouver roaster JJ Bean. Or look for limited edition 12-pack holiday cartons filled with the vanilla and chocolate flavours of Lions Winter Ale. Learn more at www.gib.ca

Stuff your stockings with cans of cider! Two favourites from BC’s oldest craft cidery—Cowichan Dry and Merri Berri—are now available in cans. Grown, fermented and canned in the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island. merridale.ca/cidery

BC Brewery Advent Calendars! Count down with your favourite local brewery calendars like Red Racer x Parallel 49's Great White Wonder box set, because nothing says 'holidays' quite like 24 beers in 24 days.

Custom Gift Baskets! Legacy is making gift-giving easy with custom beer baskets. Have a beer style or brewery in mind? Their beer team will work with you to put together the perfect gift. Or choose one of the ready-to-crack sets at legacyliquorstore.com/shop


Dead Frog: Seasonal Beers and Mixer Packs!

CRAFT Beer Market: Gift Card Bonus!

Give the gift of extraordinary craft beer this holiday! Winter brews like Redrum Spiced Red Ale and Nutty Uncle Peanut Butter Stout are perfect gifts for any beer lover. Available in bottles, cans and seasonal Dead Frog Dozen Mixer Packs at liquor stores and at the brand new Dead Frog brewery & tasting room in Langley! deadfrog.ca

It’s the most wonderful time of the year…to give beer! This holiday season, for every $50 worth of gift cards purchased, get a $10 bonus gift card. For every $100 in cards purchased, get a $20 bonus. Buy them at the restaurant or online at craftbeermarket.ca/vancouver/giftcards

Feeling crafty? Check out my easy step-by-step guide to making your own Super Awesome Beer Advent Calendar™. - WB Columnist Lynn McIlwee


Here are ways to pair some education with your beer gift.

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Learning & Appreciation Join BC's pre-eminent beer enthusiast's society for comradeship, education and insider discounts. CAMRA BC has five established branches. Individual Membership: $25/year. www.camrabc.ca/branches

Serious Beer by Chester Carey is offered at PICA from time to time. It offers a broad spectrum of beer style history, brewing mechanics, beer tasting, analyzing off-flavours, and food/beer pairing. picachef.com/classes/beer-school

RECOMMENDED READING with Ted Child Ted Child reviews books for What's Brewing. Here are a few items Ted recommends searching out. Beeronomics

Johan Swinnen & Devin Briski

Brewing Revolution

Frank Appleton

Craft Beer Revolution

Joe Wiebe

Comic Book Story of Beer

Jonathan Hennessey & Mike Smith

The Beer Wench's Guide to Beer

Ashley Routson

How to Have a Beer

Alice Galletly

The World Atlas of Beer & Best Beers (Pocket Beer Guide)

Timm Webb & Stephen Beaumont

The CiceroneⓇ Certification Program prepares beer servers and enthusiasts to appreciate, share and serve beer at a higher level. It therefore provides a number of gift ideas for potential learners. You can purchase a gift card for any of their study materials, courses, and exams, such as the Certified Beer Server exam.

Road to Cicerone® Course Books!

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Enhance your professional credentials while making progress toward Certified Cicerone®! Earn a “Specialist” designation with Road to Cicerone® courses. cicerone.org/us-en/course-books

Like to read What’s Brewing in hardcopy? Don’t blame you; it’s fabulous in its glorious glossy printed format. Gift a year of home delivery (4 quarterly issues) including postage for only $20. www.whatsbrewing.ca/order

28 WHAT'S BREWING W I N T E R 2018-19


HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

At Home: Bar & Brewing Homebrewing is easy and a great way to learn about beer. Here are some gift ideas that will get things brewing for you and yours. How about a homebrew club membership? Vanbrewers annual membership: $30. Visit www.vanbrewers.ca or refer to our regular feature Brew Club Corner for a list of other BC clubs.

KPU's Brewing and Brewery Operations program is for people that would like a career in commercial brewing. Check the next Open House session at www.kpu.ca/brew

Craft Your Own Beer! Get your basic brewing equipment as a starter kit. 3-Gallon kits starting at $66 and 6-Gallon kits starting at $86. Available at Barley’s Homebrewing Supplies. barleyshomebrewing.com

Malt or hops-embedded business card holders from Mashed In $20 Tip: make your home brew stand out with custom bottle caps ($0.14+ each) and bottle labels ($0.60+ each) from Bottlemark bottlemark.com

Custom Personalized Growlers! Sigil & Growler

Did you know you could put whatever you want not only in a growler, but ON it too? You can, with these amazing custom-engraved refillables from Vancouver's Sigil & Growler. An unbeatable gift. sigilandgrowler.com

Custom Tap Handles & Beer Paddles

Illustrations: Montevarious

You can have a custom tap handle made for the homebrewer in your life. Talk to Vancouver-based Smooth Edge Design. smoothedgedesign.ca

W I N T E R 2018-19 WHAT'S BREWING 29


AN IN-CIDER'S VIEW | recipes

Craft Cider cocktails for a snappy, happy holiday

I

>> JEFF NAIRN t’s fair to say that Vancouver now has a world class beer scene. I love the beer in this city. Ever since moving here 14 years ago from Ontario and having my first BC craft beer— Tree Brewing’s Hop Head IPA, as I recall—I’ve been hooked. And fortunately, we live in East Vancouver with a dozen or so great breweries within a kilometre of so of our house.

Vancouver also has an extremely vibrant cocktail scene. Bartenders in this city have created some amazing bar programs, and some, like Keith Trusler, Kaitlin Stewart and Lauren Mote have gone on to establish themselves as leaders in the cocktail and spirits industry worldwide. While beer can be considered an ingredient in many a great cocktail—Micheladas for instance—I’d consider cider to be an ingredient not to be missed out. And, since we’re going into the busy and hospitable holiday season, I asked a couple of friends who happen to be great bartenders if they could put together a couple of cocktails that feature a dry craft cider as their key ingredient. Recommended BC craft ciders to use might include NOMAD’s Original, Left Field’s Big Dry, Dominion’s First Principles or my own Windfall Jackpot.

Mon Sherry, by Ron Oliver

Jeff Nairn is the co-founder of Windfall Cider, a craft cider producer based in East Vancouver. His column tackles items fermented, not brewed, focussing on issues related to BC's burgeoning craft cider industry..

GIRL IN A WETSUIT

MON SHERRY

CHRISTMAS CIDER PUNCH

By Justin Taylor, General Manager and Cocktail Specialist at The Cascade Room in Mount Pleasant.

By Ron Oliver, Owner and Cocktail Specialist at Mamie Taylor’s, an Americanstyle restaurant in Chinatown.

If you’re entertaining over the upcoming holidays, here’s a quick and easy cider punch that you can prepare ahead.

Glassware: double old-fashioned glass

Glassware: double old-fashioned glass

Ingredients:

Ingredients:

For this one you are looking for a tannic quality and a distinct wild ferment to adds those neat flavours to the punch. One recommendation would be Sea Cider's Wild English, with Merridale's Scrumpy as an alternate choice.

• 1.5 oz Casamigos Reposado Tequila • 1.0 oz cinnamon-infused simple syrup • 0.5 oz lime juice • 3 dashes of Angostura bitters • 2.0 oz dry craft cider Directions: • Add the tequila, simple syrup, lime juice, and bitters to a cocktail shaker with ice. • Shake hard for 15 seconds. • Strain over fresh ice in an old-fashioned glass. • Top with dry cider. Garnish with orange zest and three fanned apple slices.

30 WHAT'S BREWING W I N T E R 2018

• • • • •

30 mL Makers Mark Bourbon 15 mL Amontillado Sherry 20 mL lemon juice 10 mL honey Poached apple cube soaked with Peychaud’s bitters • Dry craft cider Directions: • Add the bourbon, sherry, lemon juice and honey to a cocktail shaker with ice. • Shake hard for 15 seconds. • Strain over fresh ice in a glass. • Top with dry cider. • Garnish with a poached apple cube soaked with Peychaud’s bitters.

Ingredients: • 750 ml Sea Cider Wild English or Merridale Scrumpy • 8 cups fresh apple juice • 3 12-ounce bottles ginger beer • 1-1/2 cups Lot 40 Rye • 1/3 cup lemon juice • 3–4 dashes Angostura bitters Directions: Combine all ingredients together over ice in a punch bowl. Ladle into punch glasses to serve 6-8 people.


GLORIOUS EVOLUTION

PRESENTS...

A RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUT INTERROGATION

Beer photography by Paul Pyne

MEET JORDAN KNOTT, CRAFT BEER EXPERT AT LEGACY LIQUOR STORE

LEGACY LIQUOR STORE

604.331.7900

1633 Manitoba Street Vancouver, BC V5Y 0B8

Got questions about craft beer? Talk to Jordan! info@legacyliquorstore.com

Online Order Desk: www.legacyliquorstore.com/shop


THIS ISSUE'S TASTING COMRADES

TED

ADAM

PAUL

Ted Child: Recognised BJCP beer event judge and homebrewer. Reviews beers for BeerMeBC.com and books for WB Adam Chatburn: home and commercial brewer, cellarman, WB columnist and past President of CAMRA Vancouver

I

Like many styles, its popularity waned once lagers were introduced. But with the craft resurgence in the 1980s, homebrewers and craft brewers alike began producing imperial stouts again. - Warren Boyer Turn to page 36 to learn more about this style in Warren's Homebrew Happenin's spotlight on RIS.

MIKE

Paul Pyne of Drink Smarter: Certified Cicerone® & beer tutor Carnell Turton of Breward Inlet: if the beer isn’t good he’ll say it Mike Ansley, The BeerRater: offering an unfiltered view on the world of craft beer

INTELLIGENCE BRIEFING

mperial stout, also knowns as Russian Imperial Stout or RIS, is a strong dark beer originally brewed in the eighteenth century in London for export to the Russian court of Catherine the Great (Empress Catherine II). The beer was brewed extra strong to withstand the long journey to Russia. (Sound familiar? Think IPA and India).

CARNELL

SUBJECTS DETAINED The beers evaluated this round included:

ABV

BeerMeBC

1.

Bomber Russian Imperial Stout

9.5%

See Review

2.

Dead Frog Commander 2017

10.5%

See Review

3.

Howe Sound Pothole Filler

9.0%

See Review

4.

Longwood Stoutnik

7.5%

See Review

5.

Moody x Ridge 1880 Export Stout*

6.6%

See Review

10.4%

See Review

6. R&B Ursos Arctos

ENJOYMENT

* Note: Moody/Ridge sample is an export stout, not an Imperial stout.

CROSS-EXAMINATION RESULTS A general overview of how these beers did as a group. Pie chart tip: start at top of legend and work clockwise from 45 degree mark (3 o'clock) >>

SCORE BREAKDOWN Panel scores include these five categories. For a full list of individual scores, turn to next page.

BALANCE: MALT VS. HOP

DRINKABILITY

This category skews towards "one is enough", although you could have more


WB SPRING TASTING PANEL RESULTS. MAXIMUM SCORE = 30

Bomber Russian Imperial Stout Note: neither What’s Brewing nor Legacy Liquor Store bear responsibility for the opinions expressed within, which are solely those of the individual panelists..

2.8/3

24 26 25 25 26

4.8/6

3.0/3

25.2/30

6.2/8

19 19 22 17 21

8.4/10

2.6/3

27 24 20 26

A big, bold, full-bodied and full-flavored stout with very little harsh notes. Engine oil aroma, viscous texture, dark roasted maltiness and coffee bean character that finishes with a balance of creamed coffee and roasty bitterness. Hits all my notes for an unaged Imperial Stout. An excellent stout, rich and full bodied, beautifully balanced. Highly drinkable for a 9.5%. Gave me the perfect Christmas pudding flavour. Rich and chocolaty, with an assertive bitterness that is balanced by the malts. Simple salted kettle cooked potato chips really enhance some of the flavours. Bomber's offering has the body I'm after in stout and is pretty solid in most other places too.

24

Hello Comrade, I understand you. Your rough, dark exterior intimidates. Your strength has overpowered many men. But when I sit down with you, you are friend. Smooth, welcoming, delicious - if I can be so bold. Come join me by fireside, regrets are for morning.

Longwood Stoutnik 2.2/3

Dead Frog Commander

3.8/6

19.6/30 2.0/3

5.2/8

6.4/10

2.2/3

One of the Island's best RISs. Harley does a great job every year on this although I would love it more in their 568ml super-tall boys. Rich and chocolaty, with a firm coffee bitterness. Breakfast at dinner with some bacon and eggs, whole wheat toast. The Soviet's Sputnik satellite was quite an achievement in its day but doesn't stand up to current technology... Stoutnik is very serviceable, but many stouts have since surpassed it. There's a charming drinkability about this beer. It hugs you all the way from your lips to your tum. Other Russian Imperial Stouts tend to have a rough and tumble aspect to them at some point, but not ol' Stoutnik. It does down as cold and smooth as a satellite careening through space.

Adam

Paul

Carnell

This beer has aged very well with su still, maybe do to the bourbon/vanilla integrated and smooth. I will definitely

A big boy from Dead Frog. Tasty, rich finish that sticks to your ribs on the w

Medium bodied with chocolate and c een chocolates.

The fact that you can buy a reserve be should grab a bottle just to see what a has few flaws in my mind.

The safe word is Whiskey! In my opin In this case, it really adds a level of d enjoyable Hefty Stout to memorable anything in Whiskey. It doesn't work f

Moody Export Stout

For me, there is a marked difference between a 8, 10, and 12 percent Stout. At 7.5%, Stoutnik is a well made example of the lower end of the Imperial Stout flavour profile. Also, I tire of beach beers quickly so I appreciate any brewery that brews a Stout year round. I appreciate the Stoutnik.

Ted

4.8/6

Mike

3.8/6

16

Dry but a little too thin bodied for a s and flavor, combined with dark fruit Imperial Stout's as this is closer to

27

Moody ales are consistent in their one of my favourites. I often dip in magnificent. High quality malts, gol quality ingredients and time. This h

23

Chocolate and nuts dominate arom only non RIS, it held it’s own among

19

This beer has some great parts, sm be clear, there is nothing wrong wit would be amazing with a bigger fin might push this into the pantheon o

18

This is a stout for people on the go. away on the heavy beasts that rea Enough flavour to keep you happy,


SEE WWW.WHATSBREWING.CA/TASTING-PANEL FOR FULL SET OF SCORES

r 2.6/3

24.2/30 6.0/8

Howe Sound Pothole Filler

8.2/10

2.4/3

urprisingly little oxidized notes. Lots of perceived sweetness a/oakiness. Like many well aged beers, the flavours are well y cellar the next batch of this.

21 23 21 26 21

h and thick. Delicious drinking chocolate with a lovely mocha way down!

coffee as the lingering profiles. Perfect with leftover Hallow-

eer, 4 years old, off the shelf, is amazing in its self. Everyone aging can do to a beer. This is an intense and rich beer that

nion, you just can't go wrong with aging anything in whiskey. deliciousness and complexity that transforms this brew from award winner. PS. I retract what I said before about aging for siblings.

20.6/30 2.2/3

5.6/8

2.2/3

5.8/8

A BC winter classic full of treacle and festive cheer. Chocolate and slightly woody. Medium body with some herbaciousness. A big meaty dish would do well; prime rib, or full English breakfast. Sweeter than some of the stouts on the list, Pothole Filler also fills and laces the mouth with a delicious burnt sugar sweetness. The nicely hidden high ABV clearly makes me wax poetic too. This beer is living proof that big heavy bastards are really just misunderstood and sweet. With a name like Pothole filler, we didn't give the poor guy much of a chance, but those who are open minded will dive in a realize he's actually quite approachable. Yes it's a little rough up front, but in the end, you are left with a smile on your face.

2.8/3

stout. A not unpleasant tarry/charred/burnt note in the aroma t flavors and esters as well. A bit unfair to place this next to a Irish Dry. Too thin.

r excellence, this export stout in conjunction with Ridge is nto historical recipes for inspiration and this 1880 Export is ldings hops, a delight. Stout recipes love 3 things: simplicity, has all three and i would love to try a barrel aged version.

ma, with a smooth texture, soft lingering bitterness. Being the gst the group. Burger beer, for sure!

mooth and silky body the leads into this...crisp finish. Let me th this, in fact it's quite enjoyable I just can't help but think it nish... maybe some barrelling or even a higher malt content of a great beer.

If you don't want to spend your winter by the fireside sipping ar their heads this time of season, this is the beer for you. , but a mouthfeel that you don't have to chew.

Aroma

7.6/10

Cherry and dark fruit on the nose. Tastes like my bottle has been well aged with vinous and sherry notes with hints of leather and tobacco. This is balanced by the blackstrap molasses which plays a strong part throughout. The bottle was a little small.

R&B Ursos Arctos

6.8/10

Appearance

4.4/6

22.4/30

3.6/6

22.8/30 2.6/3

6.0/8

7.8/10

18 25 21 25

Much better as it warms, which diminishes some of the initial harsh, almost acrid, burnt notes. After, this beer still has lots of dark malt roastiness. I'd almost want to age this another year, just to see.

25

When there's a Bear on the label and wax on the top, you know you're in for a wild ride. You're met a whallop of malt of the front side, paired with a jab of earthy hops, and then nursed back to health by a sweet russian princess. Just another weekday night in my house. I need a nap.

Ready to drink right now, this would also benefit from a year or so of aging. Thoroughly enjoyable, but definitely dangerous. A great example of the style. Rich and bold, with loads of chocolate and an assertive bitterness. Needs a year or two in bottle to really show what is's made of. Enjoying with a hearty chilli on a crisp evening. Ursos Arctos, is a eurasian brown bear... as in Russian. A big brown bear is great way to describe this beer. Flavours are distinct and strong... and like a brown bear its not so subtle, but worth seeking out.

Palate/Mouthfeel

Flavour

Overall Impression


HOMEBREWING HAPPENIN'S | brewing

RUSSIAN IMPERIAL STOUTS >> WARREN BOYER In this issue's Tasting Panel, Warren provides an introduction to the style known as Imperial Stout or Russian Imperial Stout (RIS).

E

ven though the style originated in England, the BJCP guidelines place Imperial Stout in category 20, American Porter and Stout. Imperial Stout is category 20C. The guidelines indicate that this style of beer should have an original gravity between 1.075 and 1.115, with a final gravity of 1.018 to 1.030. This will result in a stout with somewhere between 8% and 12% ABV, a strong beer. Imperial stouts are intenselyflavoured big beers with deep, dark colour. Roasted malt flavours of coffee and cocoa are prominent, with dried fruit underlying. The finish should not be overly sweet, so full attenuation Photo: Adam Chatburn is important. A hop balance is important as well. A warm alcohol feel is all right, but it shouldn't be hot. This style could be described as a black barleywine.

Russian Imperial Stout. But we have amazing brewing water in most of BC, so you could skip the water treatment and still have a fantastic beer. Boil for 60 to 90 minutes depending on your pre-boil gravity. • 1.35 oz Magnum (15% AA) for 60 minutes • 2 oz East Kent Goldings (5AA) for 10 minutes • 2 oz East Kent Goldings at flame out The original gravity should end up around 1.094. Pitch with two packets of Safale S-04, or your favourite English ale yeast. You will need to make a starter or use two packages to ensure a proper pitch rate. Ferment at 18 to 19 degrees C until the gravity reading is the same for three days or more. Beers like this with high alcohol by volume tend to improve with age, so consider putting at least half of the batch in the cellar. Dip the necks in melted wax and your Christmas gifts are ready to be handed out. Now go make some beer! Warren Boyer is an award winning homebrewer, Certified Beer Judge, former President of CAMRA Vancouver, and and occasional Professional Brewer. E: homebrewboy@shaw.ca

North Coast Old Rasputin is an excellent example of an American version. Samuel Smith Imperial Stout represents the English version well. Nineteen years ago, I brewed my first Imperial stout. It wasn't an award winner, but I learned a lot from making it. Here is a recipe that will give a much better result. This recipe is for approximately 20 litres of finished beer at 10% ABV. I include the grain bill percentages, so you can adjust for a different sized batch. • • • • • •

7.5 kg (78.9%) Marris Otter 0.75 kg (7.9%) Roasted barley 0.5 kg (5.3%) Special B or Crystal 120 0.25 (2.6%) CaraMunich III or Crystal 60 0.25 kg (2.6%) Chocolate malt 0.25 kg (2.6%) Pale chocolate malt

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Single infusion mash for 60 minutes at 68 degrees C. I would treat my mash water with 10 grams of chalk, 5 grams of baking soda, 5 grams of calcium chloride, and 3 grams of gypsum. I would likely add 6 mL of 88% lactic acid to the mash as well, to ensure mash pH is in the proper zone. The idea of these minerals is to try and mimic the brewing water in London for an authentic 36 WHAT'S BREWING W I N T E R 2018-19

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A VIEW FROM THE CELLAR | editorial

THE RETURN OF THE LAGER Noxious ramblings of a semi-professional malcontent

L

ager is back! It’s the new craft beer! C’mon, it’s craft now!

Bah, humbug. Let me tell you laddie, some of us fought a war against lager. You young bucks probably don’t remember a time before craft, but we old-timers do. The tasteless swill that was forced down our throats by mega breweries turned our stomachs and in turn brought about the craft revolution. Beers became tastier and macro lagers, whilst undeniably still prevalent, became an object of snobbish scorn. Freed from the constraints of tasteless yellow water, craft beer surged ahead, styles were resurrected and developed around the world, and the landscape changed forever. Many have forgotten those battles. Over the last couple of years, pilsners and other lagers have become popular again in craft circles. From both shadow brands and legitimate craft breweries, wave upon wave of technically proficient yet utterly uninspiring lagers now occupy shelves that used to be filled with ales of distinction. The return has reminded me of the way anti-vaxxers have forgotten the horrors of the past, or the way the political extreme right has resurged and been emboldened of late.

tank time (4 to 8 weeks) required to successfully lager a beer meant that they were broadly uneconomic when two or three batches of IPA could be knocked out in the same time. But breweries grow, and more tank capacity allows breweries to make more lagers. Now they can try to take on the big boys at their own game. For many years, lager love was a bit of a dirty secret among brewers, I recently ran into a very fashionable brewer from Brewers’ Row with a case of Old Milwaukee under his arm. “It’s not mine! I’m holding it for a friend! I’m going camping!” The shame of it! So why is lager now coming back? I believe the answer is simple: it’s really cheap to make. This is starting a price war at the bargain end of the market, with ever-growing cans matched by evershrinking price tags. Could it be that big beer has finally succeeded in derailing the craft revolution by bringing lager back? Or were these lager louts just hiding in craft clothing waiting to turn back the tides of “taste”?

Adam Chatburn is former president of CAMRA Vancouver. Follow him at @real_cask on Instagram and @realcask on Twitter. He doesn’t post very much but when he does it’s awesome.

Craft breweries struggled to make lagers for a time because they are easy to make, but notoriously difficult to do well. The lengthy

Barley's Homebrewing Supplies

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All Grain Recip Grain

s Otter 4.0 kg Mari n Malt ow Br 0.45 kg tal 35 0.25 kg Crys tal 85 ys Cr kg 0.15 olate Malt oc Ch 0.25 kg

Yield: 23L

OG: 1.051 FG: 1.012 5.1% Target ABV: IBU: 27 SRM: 25

Schedule

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Ferment

Ale Yeast With London

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W I N T E R 2018-19 WHAT'S BREWING 39


WOMEN IN BEER | profile

Kerilyn Faulkner >> LUNDY DALE

O

ne of my favourite parts of being a chapter leader /coordinator for Pink Boots in BC is meeting the incredible women in the industry. Kerilyn Faulkner is one of these women. I “met” Kerilyn on Facebook just before she joined Pink Boots, as I was trying to find women brewers in BC for the annual Pink Boots Brew that happens on International Women’s Day. We chatted over Messenger in the months before, during and after the brew, and finally got to meet in person at the Okanagan Fest of Ale and exchanged each other’s Pink Boots Brews! And now it’s time for you to meet her.

Q&A WITH KERILYN FAULKNER, TORCHLIGHT BREWING, NELSON BC HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN THE POSITION? I have been brewing at Torchlight about one and a half years.

WHAT BROUGHT YOU INTO THE INDUSTRY? The same things that helped me discover my passion for beer are what brought me into the industry! I love beer. The journey here has been fun and unexpected. I was actually bartending at

Kerilyn Faulkner: Pink Boots Brew

a sweet craft beer bar in Bracebridge, Ontario, called the Griffin Gastropub. After my first shift, one of the owners opened up the fridge, packed me up 12 different craft beers, and told me to “go do some homework”. That was the night craft beer stole my heart! A few months later there was a competition at Session Muskoka Beer Festival where three people got to create an idea for a beer and actually brew it with Sam from Sawdust City Brewing. I was one of those people. I came up with the idea for a honey-jalapeno hefeweizen, Sam created the recipe, and then he showed me how to brew! That was the day I fell in love with brewing.

WHAT BROUGHT YOU TO THIS SPECIFIC CHOICE? DID YOU CHOOSE THE JOB? OR DID THE JOB CHOOSE YOU? I definitely chose the job. When I moved to Nelson, Torchlight Brewing was run by the owners, Craig and Josh (who now have a team of 15 or more). I walked in there, résumé in hand, and Craig told me they were just starting out and weren’t in a position to hire anyone else yet. I offered up a voluntary hand if they ever needed it and continued to frequent the tasting lounge. Eventually they took me up on my offer, and that led to my current position when they expanded from a 4HL system to 20HL. And here we are.

WHAT WERE YOU DOING BEFORE? I studied automotive tech and business and worked as an automotive apprentice and service advisor, but I always had a side job bartending, which eventually led me to realize that I enjoyed beer much more than I did cars. I quit my job, spent a few years travelling on and off, and moved to Bracebridge from my hometown Toronto. I really discovered my love for craft beer there. After a trip to Australia, I managed to find myself in Nelson, BC and joined a homebrew club which landed me a great job at Art of Brewing (a homebrew store) and then the opportunity to work with Torchlight. 40 WHAT'S BREWING W I N T E R 2018-19


DO YOU FEEL RESPECTED IN YOUR ROLE? Absolutely. I got to know Craig and Josh well before I started at Torchlight, so I knew the type of people and environment I would be working in. I spend more time with my brewery family than my real family and there is no way I could do that if I wasn’t respected. Customers, beer festival goers and other industry people have, for the most part, responded to me being a brewer with nothing more than some questions, good conversation, and a “Cheers.”

HOW DO YOU FEEL ABOUT WOMEN-ONLY BEER GROUPS LIKE PINK BOOTS? WHY DID YOU JOIN? Pink Boots Society is a great organization and so are others such as Barley’s Angels and the Society of Beer Drinking Ladies. They foster creativity, collaboration, teamwork, and an opportunity to connect with similar people. I joined Pink Boots for a few reasons. One was to be a part of the annual Collaboration Brew Day and get a group of women together who were (mostly) strangers. Most hilarious and fun brew day yet! Another reason is the support they give to members through scholarships and training. It’s a great community and network of skilled talented people.

COME VISIT VANCOUVER’S

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HOW WERE YOU TRAINED? I am still in training and will always be! My journey has been very hands-on. I have mentors who are guiding me along the way. I’ve completed my General Certificate in Brewing from the Institute of Brewing & Distilling [London, UK] and plan to begin studies at Siebel Institute as well.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE BEER OF THE BREWERY AND WHY? My favourite Torchlight beer is whatever our newest creation is! We’re always coming up with new ideas and recipes to keep our minds and taste buds excited. We do a series of small batch exclusives called Tap 13 beers, so you can catch me drinking those when we’ve got them, too.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE BEER OUTSIDE OF YOUR BREWERY AND WHY? Hardest question ever! But I had Framblanc from Cascade Brewing in Portland, that a friend gifted me, and it blew me away. So it’s my favourite. For now.

FAVOURITE FEMALE IN THE INDUSTRY?

#meetthenewrussell

There are so many great ladies, but Kristin MacDonald at Muskoka Brewery in Ontario is a friend and brewing industry inspiration to me. She is the queen of accomplishing goals.

BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT TO DATE? All of my smaller achievements accumulated, and I made it to where I am right now and enjoyed the whole journey. I’d say that's pretty good.

BEERS TO TOAST YOUR ULTIMATE MOMENTS Lundy Dale Among her other contributions to the BC beer scene, Lundy is a founder of CAMRA BC's Vancouver chapter, Barley's Angels' Pink Pints Chapter and BC Craft Beer Month, and Past President of CAMRA BC.

623 8TH AVE N, GOLDEN, BC PHONE: 250-344-2838

W I N T E R 2018-19 WHAT'S BREWING 41


BEERS, BEACHES & BREWERIES | regional report

PENTICTON:

CRAFT BEER TOWN

W

>> KIM LAWTON

hen the Okanagan comes to mind, many people think of sun-drenched vineyards, warm sandy beaches, and farm-fresh produce. What more and more people are learning is that in the heart of the region lies Penticton, one of BC’s best craft beer towns. With five craft breweries and two more opening in 2019, come see for yourself why Expedia.ca recently named Penticton as Canada’s second best beer town. This fabulous four-season playground has become such a popular destination that askmen.com recently named Penticton as the only Canadian city on the list of “10 best destinations for beer enthusiasts”. All the craft breweries in Penticton are within a few minutes of each other, so you can easily visit them all. Pick up a Penticton Ale Trail passport at any of the breweries, and get it stamped at each one for your chance in the quarterly draw for a Penticton Ale Trail prize package. We are stoked to be welcoming two new breweries in Penticton. Plans for both Hatchery Brewing and Neighbourhood Brewing are well underway, and both teams hope to have beer flowing in their new digs by the summer of 2019. From Penticton, head south to Oliver to visit Firehall Brewing. Or head north to Summerland to visit Detonate Brewing and another start up, Breakaway Brewing, aiming to open in the summer of 2019 in downtown Summerland. A great reason to head to the Okanagan this winter is for Brewski on February 16. Brewski is a super cool craft beer, spirits and cider festival held at The Gunbarrel Saloon at Apex Mountain. This signature event sells out in days, so watch for tickets to go on sale in December. Your Brewski ticket also gives you a discount on lift passes. There is nothing better than hitting the slopes during the day, and then enjoying craft beverages, appies, and live entertainment in the evening. Also, save the date for the 24th annual Okanagan Fest of Ale coming up on April 12 and 13 in Penticton. Early bird tickets are on sale until January 15. There are some great Sip & Stay ticket and accommodation packages, so plan to join us in Penticton at this festival for a full weekend of great craft beer and cider. Our local breweries have some great new beers in the works for winter. Bad Tattoo is launching a barrel-aged IPA called Wyld Creatures Mango IPA in December and a Black Ink Russian Imperial Stout in January. Both will be on tap at the brewery and available in 650 mL bombers at select stores around BC. The Barley Mill’s new Rude Pony Black Lager will be exclusively available on tap and for growler fills. Cannery Brewing will be launching popular winter seasonals Darkling Oatmeal Stout and Heist Maple Stout, both in 473 mL 42 WHAT'S BREWING W I N T E R 2018-19

Members of the five existing Penticton brewery teams welcome two new breweries to the Penticton Ale Trail

cans, this year. Also, watch for the first ever barrel-aged beer from Cannery. The Berry Kettle Sour was aged in Chardonnay and Viognier barrels from Elephant Island Winery. It will be in 750 mL bottles at the brewery and at craft beer stores around BC in time for Christmas. Highway 97 Brewing has two new beers for the winter. Fresh Tracks Winter Cream Ale is a true West Coast cream ale, and Bumbleberry Pie Saison is a Belgian fruit style saison. Watch for both in 473 mL cans at cold beer stores and the brewery. You can also enjoy it on tap at the brewery alongside one of their new gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches. Tin Whistle will also be launching two new beers this winter: Twisted Pink Guava Hazy Pale Ale and Wasted Grape Saison, which is aged on Gewürztraminer must and was made in collaboration with Wild Goose Vineyards. The popular Chocolate Cherry Porter will also be back in time for Christmas. These beers will be available in 650 mL bombers and on tap. Further south in Oliver, Firehall will be releasing their Bourbon Barrel Stout, which was aged for 18 months, this winter. It will be available at their Beer Shop & Social, along with their holiday mixed cases. You can pick some up when you visit them for their annual Great White North concert on December 22. Until next time, cheers!

Kim Lawton is a craft beer fan, a long-time supporter of the craft beer movement, President of CAMRA South Okanagan and the Marketing Director at Cannery Brewing in Penticton. Kim can be reached via Twitter @DogLegMarketing


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EXCITING TIMES In Northern BC

T

>> ADAM ARTHUR he past few months have been a very exciting time in Prince George and Northern BC, and there is more to come.

The launch of the Northern BC Ale Trail finally put a spotlight on this region and its great breweries. Northern BC winners at the 2018 BC Beer Awards included Barkerville Brewing, whose 52 Foot Stout took silver in the UK Stout category, as well as Three Ranges Brewing, whose Tail Slap IPA took gold in the North American IPA category. September in Prince George kicked off with the annual Backyard BBQ. UNBC and its campus pub The Thirsty Moose along with various Northern BC craft breweries teamed up to present a mini-beerfest. It was the first time craft beer has been served at Prince George’s original outdoor beer festival. CrossRoads Brewing held their third and final 2018 Outdoor Street Festival installment in September. The event featured excellent food, new beers, and great music. October saw Trench Brewing host Trenchtoberfest, a great Oktoberfest event featuring new beers, games and great food courtesy of Hop N Hog Food Truck from Clearwater. Great White Toys, Comics & Games held a Brews and Board Games event featuring CrossRoads beer. Great White also teamed up with Trench Brewing for their Board Game night. Great things have been happening in other parts of Northern BC, too. In Fort St. John, Mighty Peace Brewing held a series of events, including one called Pork and Beer! Beard’s Brewing held an Oktoberfest event and will be holding various other events. Many of the Northern BC craft breweries hold joint events.

UPCOMING EVENTS Kask Taproom & Eatery announced the return of the Kask Beer Club. Flights of beers from their taps are sampled and rated using the Beer Judge Certification Program guidelines and are also paired with their tasty food. It’s held on the fourth Wednesday of Continued on p. 46 STAKE YOUR CLAIM™ TO THE QUESNEL CRAFT BREWERY WHOSE AWARD WINNING BEERS TELL THE STORY OF BC'S HISTORIC CARIBOO GOLD RUSH • • • •

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44 WHAT'S BREWING W I N T E R 2018-19

NEW CRAFT PUB Comes to Powell River

R

>> PADDY TREAVOR eports that Powell River is about to be the home of a new brewpub may be premature, but there is no doubt that the picturesque coastal city will soon have its first craft-beerfocused pub for locals and beers tourists alike to enjoy.

The Wildwood Public House, under construction at 5987 Lund Street, is slated to open in early 2019. Previously the Red Lion, it will focus on Sunshine Coast and mid-Island craft beers, Neapolitan pizza, and live music once the doors are open. There is a lot of buzz about the Wildwood, locally and in craft beer circles. Much of it has to do with the new ownership group, which includes music legend John Wright, who co-founded the iconic punk rock band NoMeansNo with his brother Rob, and Isaac Tremblay, co-founder and current director of Quebec craft brewery Le Trou du Diable. “Our plan is to renovate and bring this old pub into the twenty-first century—kicking and screaming at times, but we're getting there,” reports Wright. The pub will have 12 taps to start, with a mix of craft beer and cider, and one kombucha tap. During the past year, reports in other beer publications have listed the Wildwood as one of BC’s anticipated new breweries in 2018. But the brewpub aspect of the business plan is still not etched in stone; it depends on the success of the pub. Wright has been an avid homebrewer for decades, and teamed up with Tremblay and LTDD to brew PunkRauch, a Bavarian-style smoked lager, based on Wright’s home-brew recipe. “I am a lager beer man and, if the brewery comes to be, that will be my focus.” “I also want to focus on what I consider regional beers—Sunshine Coast and Mid-Island breweries—but I have good friends all over in this business, and 12 taps is already not enough,” says Wright. “However, our main goal is to have a good range of styles and choice without being too overwhelming.” Live music is also in the plans—no surprise, given Wright’s 30-year history in the music industry. They have improved the stage and Continued on p. 46

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2018-02-06 12:33:52 PM


REGIONAL REPORTS

OUT & ABOUT in Victoria, Fall 2018 >> SCOTTIE MCLELLAN FRESH TO DEATH, E&N ROUNDHOUSE ESQUIMALT, OCTOBER 6

T

he Roundhouse is an heritage railway building which dates back to 1912. The unheated facility featured 27 presenters of beer, cider, and a fresh-hopped Kombucha on a day that was sunny and bright.

This event attracts a beer-educated crowd. Attendees mingled with brewers and reps and it was a casual atmosphere, with people discussing taste and flavours and exchanging stories. Judging by the crowd, people were extremely happy with the day’s event. Good job by the Victoria Beer Week organizers in making a fun and memorable sunny day in an historic building with a collection of fine beers.

Northern BC, Cont'd every month starting in October and is a great way to introduce folks to craft beer. Kask also hosts a Guest Appreciation Night and tap takeovers. Fuggles & Warlock were featured in November. Beerthirst (representing American craft brands and BC’s Deep Cove) will be featured in December. Kiwanis Ale Fest returns January 25-26, while January 24 is Beer Lovers’ Night at the Copper Pig BBQ. CrossRoads beer will once again be served at the CN Center for WHL Prince George Cougars games. The best part is that CrossRoads will have a full booth to feature their tasty beer. Things are vastly improving in Northern BC as a whole; the craft beer revolution has finally arrived. Cheers! View the rest of this story online to read Adam’s Top Picks for Prince George Craft Beer and Facebook BC beer discussion groups. Adam Arthur is a craft beer fan since 2010 who’s glad to represent Northern BC and the city of Prince George. He supports Independent craft breweries in (and outside of) BC.

Powell River, Cont'd

At Winterbrau with Russell Brewing

WINTERBRAU, CANOE BREW PUB NOVEMBER 3 Located in the Historic City Lights building. Constructed in 1894, this brick-and-beam structure is one of the finest examples of old to new use as a brew pub that I’ve seen in my travels. This event is so popular with breweries that Canoe team leader and brewer Daniel Murphy had to do a lottery to choose breweries this year. As always, patrons filled the building to capacity to enjoy some of the finest craft winter beers available.

The new pub under construction

plan to establish a schedule with broad appeal and a range of events that both respects and entertains the neighbours. States Wright, “We want it to feel comfortable for anyone, including families, and will strive to be an inclusive neighbourhood pub and social gathering point for Wildwood and beyond.”

Canoe is also known for its gastro food choices. Servers circulated with trays of snacks for guests to enjoy along with the beer.

“We live in one of the most beautiful parts of the world, and what goes better with beauty than great food, beer, art, music, friends and family? It is where we start and end.”

A salute to the Canoe team for the warm hospitality and top-of-theline service. Thanks to everyone who comes and says hello, and thanks all of us at What’s Brewing for our efforts.

The Wildwood Public House will be a must-visit place for local and visiting craft beer lovers and a much-needed addition to the local craft beer scene.

Scottie McLellan is a craft beer industry veteran and longtime supporter of BC’s Craft Beer Movement. He has written for What's Brewing for over a quarter century.

Paddy Treavor has been President of CAMRA BC and two of its branches. Self-described hophead, craft-beer advocate and wannabe reporter. Read more from Paddy on the VanEast Beer Blog

46 WHAT'S BREWING W I N T E R 2018-19


BOOKS IN REVIEW | reading

BEERONOMICS How Beer Explains the World

U

>> TED CHILD

ntil recently, beer has been largely ignored by academics and scholars as an object of serious study. Even if it was present in the past, beer was irrelevant to larger historical changes and developments. Some have argued that this bias against beer by western intellectual elites was inherited. To quote Jonathan Hennessey and Mike Smith: “Arguably, the intellectual elites of Western Civilization inherited a prejudice against beer drinking from the same people to whom we still often turn to for highbrow ideas about Truth, Beauty, Justice and Sophistication: the ancient Greeks and Romans.” (The Comic Book Story of Beer, p.29). Slowly but surely, the lack of serious scholarly research into beer has begun to change. Beeronomics, published by Oxford University Press and co-authored by a professor of economics, is something of a primer to much of the beer research done in recent memory. Don’t be put off by the allusion to economics; there is only a moderate amount of economics in this wide-ranging book, and most of it will be easily understood by the average reader. Each chapter focuses on a single author, book, or area of research. All of it, no matter how far afield it seems from economics, will be put to work proving the author's thesis that beer explains the world. Of particular interest to BC readers is the chapter on the work of UVic professor Richard Unger. Unger has penned two academic studies of medieval beer, which show the relationship between the emergence of hop use and “the beginning of commercial (non-monastic) brewing and a medieval export market” (p. 3). “Political power and economic development were frequently rooted in and around the innovation and regulation of the brewing industry... The records tell us the story of the numbers behind beer’s transition from source of nourishment and intoxication to source of wealth and government revenue—and thus political power” (p. 16). If you have read any of my other book reviews, you probably know how much I wish for beer books that don’t just detail how history affected beer, (e.g., during such-and-such a war the brewery was sacked, stopping production for such-and-such a time) but for books about how beer (and alcohol in general) affected history. For instance, a book about Winston Churchill is fine but a book about how Churchill’s love of gin might have affected the Second World War would be much more interesting, at least to me. Beeronomics is exactly that kind of book.

philosophers might like to admit. And in fact, an archival glance back reveals that beer taxes underwrote events that shape our modern world” (p. 162). Beyond this, Beeronomics details many other mustknow beer stories, from the battle for the name Budweiser, to how the traditional wine drinking nations and beer drinking nations no longer exist, to an in-depth look at the hostile takeover of Anheuser-Busch by InBev. Certain beer books almost demand that you read them with a beer in hand, making them not very good to read on the bus to work. I found Beeronomics worked well both ways. John Holl’s review in Craft Beer & Brewing stated that “For non-economists, this book will take a while to read through and digest.” But you don’t have to be a specialist to enjoy this book. The chapters are short—usually about eight pages—and they are well-written and understandable. I found a chapter was almost perfect pint length. The only trouble I had involved one section with a lot of numbers, and that wasn’t because of the writing. As Holl pointed out, this might not be a book you read front to back, but it’s a terrific one-chapter-per-sitting kind of book.

Ted Child is a Recognized BJCP Beer Judge and award-winning homebrewer. He is also What's Brewing's in-house book reviewer. Look for his assessments of the latest beer books and publications in each issue

Take, for example, the history of London Porter. Any book detailing the history of beer has to describe how the invention and popularity of London Porter during the eighteenth century changed beer forever. But how many books detail the research that shows how the taxation on this beer financed successful British imperialism “for centuries” (p. 3). The authors argue that “Beer has shaped the trajectory of Western civilization more than most political W I N T E R 2018-19 WHAT'S BREWING 47


Profile for What's Brewing BC

What's Brewing Winter 2018-19  

Volume 28 Issue 4 is our Winter Wonderland issue. Its 48 pages contain 15 stories and features, including The BC Craft Beer Holiday Gift Gui...

What's Brewing Winter 2018-19  

Volume 28 Issue 4 is our Winter Wonderland issue. Its 48 pages contain 15 stories and features, including The BC Craft Beer Holiday Gift Gui...

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