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HOT SP R I NG S LO O PS | BACKCOUNTRY DI N I N G | WI N TER FAS H I ON | TOP 1 0 AP R ÈS S POTS

WEST OF 1O5

THE BEST OF COLORADO

Spotlight On

ASPEN

BACKCOUNTRY

HUTS

COLORADO

WINTER

SKI GUIDE

ISSUE 2, WINTER 2018-2019


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WEST OF 105

@WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

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LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHERS WEST OF

FTER some very positive and encouraging feedback from issue one, we are pleased to present issue two of West of 105 magazine. This issue is all about winter, a season that is as synonymous with Colorado as pizza is with New York. Undeniably a state for all seasons, there is something special about winter in Colorado whether you like skiing, snowboarding, ice fishing or just staying cozy inside with a glass of mulled wine. In this issue, we present a nice mix of age-old favorites and some lesser known winter gems this side of the 105th meridian. Our destination story is Aspen where we looked into the town’s history as well as what they have in store for winter. We also spent 24 hours in Breckenridge, found some incredible backcountry dining options for those who want to experience winter here in a slightly different way, and we look at how Aspen will celebrate 100 years of Bauhaus. We also teamed up with artist and illustrator extraordinaire Todd Telander to give you a visual guide to some of the amazing wildlife you might see West of 105 this winter, if you’re lucky. Also in winter, there are dozens of seasonal flights that connect rural Colorado to the rest of the country (and even Canada). For those who want to visit New York, we’ve put together five different itineraries for five different kinds of people.

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TOP PICKS FOR WINTER

CO-PUBLISHERS ROB MCGOVERN & BRITTANY PANTER

GENERAL INQUIRIES HELLO@WESTOF105.COM

PG. 22

EDITORIAL EDITORIAL@WESTOF105.COM

FROM THE WORLDRENOWNED TO THE HIDDEN GEMS, WE SPOTLIGHT ALL 28 COLORADO SKI RESORTS

SALES & MARKETING MARKETING@WESTOF105.COM

CONTACT HEAD TO THE WORLD’S FIRST ICE PARK FOR A DIFFERENT WINTER ACTIVITY

WESTOF105.COM (970) 209 2290

SOCIAL MEDIA @WESTOF105 #CROSSTHEMERIDIAN

PG. 40 VENTURE INTO COLORADO’S BACKCOUNTRY FOR A SIDE OF SOLITUDE WITH DINNER

COVER PHOTO JACK AFFLECK / VAIL RESORTS

PUBLISHED BY PERIOD COMMUNICATIONS, A COLORADO COMPANY PERIODCOMMS.COM HELLO@PERIODCOMMS.COM

We hope you enjoy reading issue two as much as we enjoyed putting it together. PG. 78

Welcome to Snow’s Perfect State! The West of 105 team @WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

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CONTENTS In Every Issue

05 08 12 14 122 130

Letter from the Publishers What’s in this issue of West of 105

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Bucket List

Top 20 winter activities, from ski resorts to backcountry huts

Gear Anatomy

Peter Brigham of Line Skis helps us break down the Sakana ski

Season Musts What to eat, drink, do and see this winter

Travel

Check out our guide to Manhattan this winter

Parting Words

A picture is worth a thousand words and we’ve captured the season in one photograph

FIND YOUR INNER CHILD THIS WINTER

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DISCOVER MANHATTAN FIVE WAYS Photos (top): AJ Mellor; (bottom): © NYC & Company / Alex Lopez

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WEST OF 105 | WHAT’S INSIDE

Features

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Outdoors

Ski Resort Guide Best of the Rest Backcountry Huts Hot Springs Loops

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DISCOVER WHY COLORADO IS SNOW’S PERFECT STATE

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ASPEN UNCOVERED

Destinations Aspen 24 Hours in Breck National Parks

Drinking & Dining

Dining Off Piste Elevated Breweries Colorado Cheese

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Lifestyle

Fall Fashion Haven and Beauty Top 10: Après-Ski Spots

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Culture & Events

Interview: Chris Anthony Bauhaus 100 Spotlight Events

DINING OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

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WARM UP AND UNWIND AT OUR TOP 10 APRÈS-SKI SPOTS

Photos (clockwise from top left): Vail Resorts / Jack Affleck; Dan Bayer / Aspen Snowmass; Braden Gunem; Don Riddle Four Seasons Vail; Kimberly Gavin / Vail Resorts

WE CHAT WITH WARREN MILLER ALUMNI CHRIS ANTHONY @WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

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THE BUCKET LIST WE’VE ROUNDED UP 20 GREAT ACTIVITIES WEST OF 105 YOU’LL WANT TO ADD TO YOUR COLORADO WINTER BUCKET LIST

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The Longest Run Ski Longshot at Snowmass. At 5.3 miles, Longshot is the longest run in the state (and the fifth in the country). The blue run is accessed via a short hike from Elk Camp chair lift. Page 27 Photo: Aspen Snowmass

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Après like a Legend

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Visit a Fairytale (Ice) Castle Returning to Dillon for the second consecutive year, the Ice Castles are built using hundreds of thousands of icicles that are hand-placed by professional ice artists to create the winter wonderland. Lights illuminate the castles at night. Page 16

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Try a New Trend

Uphill skiing is not entirely new, but it is gaining in popularity across Colorado, so expect to see more people skiing uphill this winter. In March, Aspen hosts the annual America’s Uphill, a race that attracts snowshoers, runners and Nordic skiers for a 2.5-mile and 3,000’+ vertical climb. Page 17

Aspen’s J Bar (inside Hotel Jerome) was a favorite hangout spot for gonzo journalist and novelist Hunter S. Thompson. Read about J Bar and nine other aprés-ski spots. Page 104

Watch the Masters

Colorado will once again host some of the best winter athletes in the world when the X Games returns to Aspen from Jan. 24 - 27, 2019. There will also be musical performances from, among others, Lil Wayne. All of the competitions are free and open to the public; the games will also be aired on ESPN and ABC. Page 118

WEST OF 105 | BUCKET LIST

Polish Your Skills Buttermilk Mountain has several terrain parks. S3 Park has 20 or so beginner- and intermediatelevel features that will test your skills. Page 27

Heli Skiing

The San Juan Mountains offer some of the most incredible scenery anywhere, and the tens of thousands of acres of untouched terrain can be accessed in winter - for a price. There are a couple of operators in the state that offer everything, from single drops to day-long adventures. Page 34

Run a 5k in the Snow The 10th annual Rio Frio Ice Fest in Alamosa is a three-day festival that offers various al fresco activities including a snowman making contest, ice carving and a 5K.

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Breck in a Day

Spend a whole day exploring Breckenridge with our 24hour guide. Find out what to do, eat and drink, as well as where to rest after a long day exploring. Page 66 Photos (top): @WESTOF105 J Bar / Hotel Jerome;| (bottom): Jameson Midgett /Aurum Breckenridge #CrosstheMeridian

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10 14 Dine in the Backcountry

Immerse yourself in Colorado’s spectacular natural landscape by having dinner at a secluded cabin. Ski, snowmobile, snowshoe or take a snowcat to one of several backcountry dining options this winter. Page 78

Explore Beyond the Beaten Track

Colorado is home to dozens of huts, cabins, yurts and lodges, many of which are so remote you have to snowshoe or Nordic ski to them. We rounded up over a dozen options for a winter adventure. Page 42

11 15 Spot Some Wildlife

We’ve teamed up with artist Todd Telander to present a guide to some of the wildlife you might spot in Colorado this winter. His magnificent illustrations bring the amazing diversity of wildlife in the state to life. Page 128

Celebrate Art

Bauhaus, one of the most influential art and design schools in history, is celebrating its centenary. Read about how it influenced and shaped Aspen into what it is today. Page 112

18 19 12 16 Scale a Frozen Cliff Face

Snowmobile through Grand Lake

Claiming the title of Snowmobile Capital of Colorado, the area around Grand Lake has a lot of terrain for snowmobilers, but it is also legal to ride your snowmobile right through town. Page 74

Say Cheese

Colorado is home to great artisan producers of all kinds of things. We spoke to a few cheese producers about their products; they also suggested a few libations you can pair with their cheeses. Consider giving the gift of cheese this Xmas. Page 92

The quaint mountain community of Ouray is home to the world’s first ice climbing park. With over 200 different routes, the park has some of the best winter climbing in the nation. Try to catch the four-day ice climbing festival from Jan. 24 - 27, 2019. Page 40

National Parks

Colorado’s four national parks offer a slew of activities in winter. From the snow-capped peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park to the groomed Nordic ski trails of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, we’ve rounded up the best winter offerings at each. Page 72

13 17 Get High

Visit the highest breweries in the state and taste some of their hoppy concoctions this winter. We round them up on Page 88

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Discover Aspen

Read our feature story on one of the world’s most well-known ski resorts and discover a few things you may not know. Page 58

Photos (top): Matthew Inden / Miles; (bottom): C2 Photography / Aspen Snowmass; (opposite page): Petar Dopchev


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WEST OF 105 | WEST BUCKET OFLIST 105

Fat Tire Fest

The Fat Bike World Championships will be held in Crested Butte in January. The five-day celebration of everything fat bike includes the championship race, a 30mile ride that will determine the world champion. The fourth installment of the event will be celebrated with an after party the evening of the race. Page 120

@WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

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GEAR ANATOMY

SAKANA SKI Line Skis | $749.95

ABOUT

Line’s Sakana ski, an all-new ski bred from the same DNA as the company’s Pescado ski (an oversized powder ski with a knocked out swallowtail and massive forebody), was conceived and tailored as a directional powder ski that offers a more all-mountain experience. The Sakana (the Japanese word for fish) comes from the mind of skier Eric Pollard and was brought to life by the technical mavericks at Line. With its radically different shape and different flex profile, the Sakana is a ski that performs well in hard and soft snow. Lead design engineer Peter Brigham talks us through some of the highlights and why it’s so revolutionary.

GRIP

Long edges give outstanding edge grip

VARIETY OF TURN SHAPES

A waist width of 105 mm down from 125 mm on the Pescado - gives the Sakana more mass appeal as it can exhibit a variety of turn shapes

STATS Sizes: 174, 181 cm Dimensions: 150-105-138 mm Weight: 1,770 grams Side Cut: 15 Avg. m Stance: -80 mm Core Construction: Partly Cloudy Core, a proprietary blend of lightweight woods that give the best strength-toweight ratio 12

GLIDE

The very bottom layer is P-tex which provides glide

TIP CONTROL

The softer tip floats and initiates turns easily while the stiffer tail provides power, stability and high speed control

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WEST OF 105 | GEAR WEST ANATOMY OF 105

Eric Polard and the design team work on the design and concept for the Sakana

WIDE RANGE OF PERFORMANCE

The Sakana’s flex profile is dictated by the thickness of the core and the shape which make for a ski that is unique and can perform well in hard and soft snow

BITE

Steel edges hold a really sharp angle which can be customized to give different amounts of bite

MORE POWER

Carbon Flax Weave and a pushed back mounting point allow skiers to size down without losing edge-grip and power across different terrains and snow conditions @WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

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SEASON MUSTS IF YOU EAT, DRINK, DO AND SEE ONE THING IN COLORADO THIS WINTER, MAKE IT THE FOLLOWING

WHAT: Truffle Fries WHERE: Ajax Tavern, Aspen WHY: They may be somewhat ubiquitous these days, but when a local couple returned from a trip to France and asked the chef at Ajax Tavern to recreate what they had eaten in Europe, the truffle fries at Ajax Tavern were the result. That was 20 years ago, and while Ajax Tavern doesn’t claim to have created them, it probably can claim to have introduced them to Aspen and Colorado. And there is nothing quite like a piping hot serving of them to refuel after a day on the slopes.

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WEST OF 105 | SEASON MUSTS

WHAT: The Downhill Snapper WHERE: St. Regis Aspen WHY: Because the Bloody Mary was perfected at the St. Regis New York, each St. Regis property creates its own version of the classic. In Aspen, it is called the Downhill Snapper (an homage to the original which was renamed the Red Snapper after it was decided that Bloody Mary was too risqué for the hotel’s clientele in the 1930’s) and is said to draw inspiration from the change of seasons in the Colorado Rockies. Deviations from the classic include the addition of dill and basil.

@WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian Photo (this page): St. Regis Hotels & Resorts; (opposite page): James + Schultze

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WHAT: Ice Castles WHERE: Dillon WHY: Returning to Dillon for the second year, the Ice Castles are as impressive as they are beautiful. A fun day out for everyone, from families to budding Instagram stars (the castles have a high selfie coefficient, particularly when they are illuminated at night), the 25 million pounds of ice used for the castles are formed into crystals and attached together using just water and the frigid temperatures of a Colorado winter.

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WEST OF 105 | SEASON MUSTS

WHAT: Uphill Skiing WHERE: Statewide WHY: Earn your turns by foregoing the chair lift and skinning (aka uphill skiing) to the top of the run. The activity is gaining in popularity and while it involves special bindings, boots and skins (which you slip over your skis to help you get to the top), you’ll save money on lift tickets, as many ski resorts across the state give uphill skiers free access. Before you strap in and skin up, be sure to check the rules at the resort or wherever you plan to skin.

@WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian Photo (this page): Vail Resorts / Dave Camara; (opposite page): A.J. Mellor

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WEST OF 105 BY THE NUMBERS

THE AGE OF HOWELSEN HILL,

COLORADO’S FIRST SKI RESORT

T H E L E N G T H O F L O N G S H O T,

THE LONGEST SKI RUN IN

TWENTY EIGHT

SKI

5.3 MILES

4302002 20k +

COLORADO

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RESORTS

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THE AVERAGE ANNUAL SNOWFALL AT WOLF CREEK SKI AREA

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YEAR X GAMES

1939

STARTED IN ASPEN

W I N T E R O LY M P I A N S A S S O C I AT E D W I T H S T E A M B O AT S P R I N G S

MI L L I O N P O U ND S

THE YEAR COLORADO’S

FIRST CHAIR LIFT WAS INSTALLED

-61°F THE AMOUNT OF ICE THAT IS USED IN THE DILLON ICE CASTLES

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bottles in the little Nell's WINE CELLAR

T H E L O W E S T R E C O R D E D T E M P E R AT U R E I N C O L O R A D OWESTOF105.COM : M AY B E L L , F E B . 1 , 1 9 8 5


OUTDOORS

+ Page 36 - Best of the Rest

Not a downhill skier? Colorado has plenty of other winter activities including ice climbing, Nordic skiing and ice fishing

Page 42 - Backcountry Huts Colorado’s hut systems offer plenty of opportunities to explore the backcountry

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DOWNLOADABLE

Ski Guide

A look at Colorado’s 28 ski resorts, from the world renowned to the hidden gems

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Page 50 - Hot Springs Loops

Five loops that explore many of the state’s hot springs spots, from road-side springs to upscale resorts

Photo: Vail Resorts / Ozturk

@WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

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GEAR GUIDE 1 FOR HER

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1. Sportube | Toaster Heated Boot Bag Slip on a pair of nice toasty boots with this handy heated boot bag. Equipped with three temperature settings, a standard outlet plug and vehicle plug, you can heat your gear en-route to the slopes. $229.95 2. HydraPak | Stow 500mL / Stow 1L A lot of ski resorts don’t offer plastic water bottles (props to them) so the collapsible, lightweight bottle is going to stay stashed in our ski coats all winter. $14 / $17

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3. Obermeyer | Down Mitten With 600 Allied Goose Down fill, these stylish mittens aren’t bulky but supply plenty of warmth. The cuffs are adjustable and the mitten is offered in three sizes. $99 4. Native | Dropzone Goggles Complete with a separate low light lens, these unisex goggles fit comfortably around the nose and feature grease- repellent and anti-fog coatings. $179

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5. Helly Hansen | Powderstar Jacket Advanced technology keeps you warm or cool depending on your level of activity, and supreme waterproofing works on the snowiest of days. Added features include a pocket designed to keep your phone battery from draining and a RECCO Advanced Rescue system. $550 6. Smartwool | One Piece Baselayer We love this 250 gram Merino wool baselayer. The one piece design keeps our backs from getting exposed, and the droptail makes for easy bathroom breaks. Our only gripe is that the fabric tends to get a bit baggy after a few hours of wear. $225 7. Mammut | Alvier Armor Hardshell Pants Available for women and men, these sturdy pants feature abrasion-proof zones which help extend the life of the pants and keep out water and wind. The pockets are big enough for a larger phone or the Hydrapak water bottle. $499 8. Wigwam | Altitude Socks While not the warmest socks around, we did find that after a day on the slopes our feet were dry and blister-free. $22

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WEST OF 105 | OUTDOORS

FOR HIM

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1. Dakine | Mission Pro 18L / 25L Backpack This snow pack offers plenty of versatility with vertical snowboard carry or diagonal ski carry straps and a fleece-lined goggle pocket. There is space for a few essentials too. $85 / $125 2. Chaos | CTR Mistral Multi-Tasker Pro With a heat generating fleece lining and an anti-bacterial mesh, this is ideal for layering under a helmet. Lycra binding around the face effectively keeps the cold out. $34.99

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3. Helly Hansen | Ullr Sogn HT Gloves Features on these waterproof gloves include touch-capable index fingers and thumbs as well as a gauntlet cuff and undercuff cinch strap. With 3M Thinsulate 150 gram insulation, they keep hands nice and toasty. $100 4. Oakley | Factory Pilot Blackout Snow Goggle The cylindrical and rimless googles are particularly comfortable around the eyes and give a wide field of vision. Oakley’s Prizm optics provide good light control. $200

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5. Buff | Polar Multifunctional Headwear The dual fabric headwear comes in a wide range of colors for men and women and can be worn 10 different ways. The fleece at the base keeps necks toasty and microfiber on the top is breathable. $32 6. Lorpen | T3 Ski Superlight The Merino wool-nylon-Lycra blend sock is thin and ideal for technical skiers. There is extra cushioning in the shin, and they are fast drying and moisture wicking. $24.99

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7. Mammut | Alvier Armor Hardshell Jacket Available for both men and women, the Alvier jacket is the counterpart to the pants (see our women’s gear guide). The hardshell jacket features a detachable snowskirt, a helmet-compatible hood and hand gaiters. $599

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SKI TOW WINTER IN COLORADO IS SYNONYMOUS WITH SKIING THANKS TO AN ENVIABLE COMBINATION OF WORLD-CLASS RESORTS, AMAZING AND HISTORIC TOWNS AND THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SCENERY ANYWHERE. WE’VE GOT THE LOWDOWN ON ALL 28 OF COLORADO’S SKI RESORTS, FROM THE BIG AND THE FAMOUS TO THE SMALL BUT PERFECTLY FORMED

Photo: 22 Vail Resorts /Jack Affleck

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WNS USA

WEST OF 105 | OUTDOORS

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VAIL MOUNTAIN 5,289 ACRES | 31 LIFTS | 195 TRAILS Founded back in 1962, Vail is one of the bestknown ski resorts in the world. To pay homage to Vail’s founding, historical signs will be placed across the mountain to give visitors the opportunity to learn a little bit about Vail’s history as they sashay down the mountain. Placed in key areas, the signs will tell the story of Vail as well as how some of the trails got their names. There will also be free guided on-mountain historical tours on select days. HIGHLIGHTS There are free tours of Vail’s legendary Back Bowls and Blue Sky Basin every Tuesday and Friday. From Dec. 9 intermediate and advanced skiers/boarders (sorry newbies) should make their way to Henry’s Hut (at the top of chair lifts 4, 5 and 11) at 10:45 am. History lovers should find some time to check out the newly-renovated Colorado Ski & Snowboard Museum which features @WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

six exhibit bays, a theater and three stateof-the-art interactive touch screen exhibits that allow visitors to dig deeper into Colorado history from the perspective of snow sports. Free for all, the museum is located in the Vail Village parking structure. Vail Resorts recently introduced Emma, the Epic Mountain Assistant, to help guide guests visiting participating Vail Resorts locations. Using artificial intelligence and natural language processing, Emma has the ability to answer a wide range of questions in real time about their vacation through text messages. Emma is available at Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge and Keystone. EVENTS Vail Legacy Days | Feb. 15-18, 2019 Vail Legacy Days are a three-day celebration of the rich history of Vail and the legacy left by the founders, former members of the 10th Mountain Division and the community that made Vail what it is today. 23


WHERE TO STAY: VAIL MANOR VAIL LODGE

Manor Vail Lodge welcomed guests for the first time just three years after Vail ski resort opened its doors in 1962. With a $100 million renovation in 2008, Manor Vail Lodge is a good choice for everyone from couples to large groups, and being located at the base of Vail Mountain’s Golden Peak, it is particularly good for those in town for winter sports fun.

EPIC PASS

CELEBRATING 10 YEARS The game-changing pass returns this ski season with access to 20 new mountains including Crested Butte and Telluride. The pass offers unrestricted access to 19 mountain resorts plus limited access to 46 others. Living up to its name, the pass offers access to 65 resorts in eight countries. The other Colorado resorts are: Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge and Keystone. 24

With rooms from studios to three-bedroom condos, Manor Vail Lodge can accommodate couples or families. Those looking for luxury and space can opt for the two-bedroom penthouse at 1,600 square feet or the gargantuan four-bedroom penthouse with loft at 3,200 square feet. Regular rooms have full kitchens, spacious living areas (with reclining chairs for horizontal relaxation), gas fireplaces, balconies and dining areas. There is also the Manor Vail Spa and the Fitz Bar & Restaurant.

WHERE TO STAY: TELLURIDE FRANZ KLAMMER LODGE Located in the heart of Mountain Village above Telluride is Franz Klammer Lodge. The Fairmont property is decorated in typical mountain lodge fashion, think timber window frames, stone fireplaces and cozy, rustic furnishings. Â Two- or three-bedroom residences offer between 1,400 and 2,000 square

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feet of space with en-suite bathrooms complete with Jacuzzi-style spa tubs. Fully-equipped kitchens can be stocked with all the necessities before you arrive thanks to a pre-arrival grocery shopping service. Franz Klammer also has complimentary transport to and from Montrose and Telluride airports and complimentary valet parking.


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CRESTED BUTTE 1,547 ACRES | 15 LIFTS | 121 TRAILS Once described as a “surf town in the mountains,” Crested Butte lays claim to having basically invented the sport of mountain biking. While fat tire bikes allow cycling purists to play in the snow, many will switch their bikes out for skis and snowboards.

Until Dec. 13, 2018 and March 30 – April 7, 2019 children aged 12 and under ski or ride for free and kids six and under ski free all season.

The biggest change for Crested Butte this season is that it was purchased by Vail Resorts. Now part of Epic Pass, the resort gives pass holders another fantastic place to ski and snowboard.

HIGHLIGHTS This season guests can ski with skiing icon Wendy Fisher. Fisher raced for the US Ski Team, competed at the 1992 Winter Olympic Games in Albertville, France and holds two Extreme Freeskiing world titles. Clinics cater to intermediate and advanced skiers.

Crested Butte also makes an extra effort to get kids involved with skiing and snowboarding. They even have programs aimed at those as young as three.

EVENTS Wednesdays with Wendy dates are Jan. 9 and 16, Feb. 13 and 20 and March 13 and 20 for the 2018-19 winter season.

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KEYSTONE 3,148 ACRES | 20 LIFTS | 128 TRAILS With thousands of acres of terrain, including three incredible peaks and five above-tree-line bowls, this Epic Pass resort is always popular. If you’re staying at Keystone Resort this ski season you might be able to get a jump on everyone else when it comes to those first runs of the day as part of First Tracks Fridays. There are some caveats, obviously. HIGHLIGHTS For those with young kids, Kidtopia offers free options outside of skiing and snowboarding including hands-on-learning programs, ice cream parties and

the opportunity to meet Keystone’s Ski Patrol rescue dogs. There is also night skiing, read more on page 31. EVENTS The Kidtopia Signature Event Series is perfect for families. The Kidtopia Spectacular, Nov. 24-Dec. 24, welcomes the holiday season with a mountaintop celebration and lighting ceremony of the world’s largest snow fort. The Kidtopia Culinary Festival, Feb. 8-19, will feature a lineup tailored to budding foodies. The Kidtopia Music Experience, March 1-10, begins the spring skiing and snowboarding season with music-themed fun. Photos: this page (top) Trent Bona / Crested Butte Mountain Resort; this page (bottom) Jack Affleck/ Vail Resorts; (opposite page top) Manor Vail Lodge; (opposite page left) Vail Resorts; (opposite page right): Franz Klammer Lodge

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IN BRECKENRIDGE

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BRECKENRIDGE 2,908 ACRES | 34 LIFTS | 187 TRAILS

Breckenridge, another Epic Pass resort, effortlessly brings picturesque mountain living together with incredible high-alpine terrain. With a base elevation of 9,600 feet, Breck usually has plenty of snow and traditionally one of the longest ski seasons in North America. Fifty new, high-efficiency snowguns were installed on Peak 9 for this season. The new guns can make more snow, more quickly using less energy, just in case Mother Nature doesn’t always play ball. Other new additions this season include the Waffle Shop at the base of Peak 9 and the Coop at Sevens which will have an outdoor express window for quick pit stops.

HIGHLIGHTS TenMile Twilight Tour and Dinners take place once a month between now and March (Dec. 22, Jan. 18, Feb. 20 and March 18). Guests will need to uphill ski or snowshoe from Peak 9 to TenMile Station. At the top you’ll be rewarded with a beautiful starry night sky and a delicious meal (read more in our dining feature on page 78). EVENTS Ullr Fest | Jan. 9-13, 2019 During Breck’s tribute to Norse god Ullr you can expect to see thousands of Viking hat-clad revelers on Main Street for the parade as well as all over the slopes. The festival concludes with the town’s biggest bonfire.

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BEAVER CREEK 1,832 ACRES | 23 LIFTS | 150 TRAILS Known as the state’s luxury family ski resort, Beaver Creek has plenty of terrain for learners and some kidfriendly amenities like free cookies every afternoon. Following the debut of Red Buffalo Park last ski season, this winter Beaver Creek Resort will debut Haymeadow Park, a second dedicated learning area giving it the most acres of dedicated learning terrain in the state. HIGHLIGHTS Visitors to Beaver Creek, which is also on the Epic Pass, this winter should be on the look out for Willy, Beaver Creek’s first-ever mountain safety dog. He will be accompanying the Beaver 26

Creek Mountain Safety Team to spread the word about safety on the hill. Beaver Creek is almost as good for foodies as it is for winter sports enthusiasts. Ski & Savor offers groups of up to six a full day of skiing with one of Beaver Creek’s seasoned pros and then a four-course lunch prepared by one of the resort’s chefs at Trappers Cabin, a private log cabin nestled at the top of Beaver Creek Resort. EVENTS Winter Culinary Weekend | Jan. 24-27, 2019 Food fuses with outdoor pursuits in this four-day food festival which will feature celebrity guest chefs. Photos: this page (top) Vail Resorts; (bottom) Jon Resnick / Vail Resorts; (opposite page top and bottom) Matt Power / Aspen Snowmass


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BUTTERMILK MOUNTAIN 470 ACRES | 7 LIFTS | 44 TRAILS Buttermilk is known around the world for being home to the Winter X Games and the Red Bull Double Pipe event. This year it celebrates 60 years. HIGHLIGHTS Buttermilk Park is where you go to see what you’re made of. With the 22-foot Zaugg-cut beast superpipe and dozens of jumps, logs and rails along its two-mile, top-to-bottom length, Buttermilk Main Park will push your skills to the limit. Buttermilk is also good for beginners and families thanks to the Hideout, an innovative learning center for

young skiers, while S3 Park has 20 or so beginner- and intermediate-level features. EVENTS Aspen X Games | Jan. 24 27, 2019 Some of the world’s best winter athletes will once again gather in Aspen for the Winter X Games. In addition to the competitions, the X Games will also see musical performances by Lil Wayne, Louis The Child, The Chainsmokers and Kygo. All sport competitions are free and open to the public, but tickets are required for concerts. The event will air live on ESPN and ABC.

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SNOWMASS 3,339 ACRES | 20 LIFTS | 98 TRAILS Offering the most skiable terrain of Aspen Skiing Company’s four resorts, Snowmass is perfect for all abilities. For a thrill away from the slopes, there is the Breathtaker Alpine Coaster. Riders wind their way through over a mile of forest on an elevated track at speeds of up to 28 mph. Located adjacent to the Elk Camp Restaurant, riders will be able to experience the thrilling ride during the day, during special Ullr Nights and during select extended hours. Also new is the Limelight Snowmass hotel. The hotel will also have a five-story climbing wall that will be open to the public (the largest of its kind in the state).

HIGHLIGHTS Snowmass’ terrain parks are consistently near the top of any and all ranking systems. The three parks have 100 features in total and will test the very best skiers and boarders. EVENTS Base Village Grand Opening | Dec. 14, 2018 The completion of phase one of the $600 million development of Snowmass Base Village will be marked with a weekend of fun which will include free s’mores and hot cocoa, a display of ice sculptures as well as an ice sculpture demo, live music, a pop-up holiday market and fireworks.

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ASPEN MOUNTAIN 675 ACRES | 6 LIFTS | 76 TRAILS One of the most famous ski resorts in the county, Aspen is known for its luxurious touches. Case in point, The Little Nell’s first tracks program which offers guests staying at the fivestar hotel the chance to get up the mountain before the gondola is open to the public. New for this year, the Aspen Snowmass app now provides rewards that can be redeemed for food and beverages, discounts at Four Mountain Sports stores and used for ski and snowboard lessons. Onmountain tracking has also been improved. HIGHLIGHTS A typical day on Aspen Mountain averages 10,000 vertical feet of ungroomed

wilderness skiing and boarding in an expanse of 1,500 acres. Aspen Mountain Powder Tours offers to take you into the heart of it all courtesy of a snowcat and guides. Expect untracked glades and runs on the backside of Aspen Mountain. Lunch is included with the tour. You can also test yourself on the same runs that hosted last year’s World Cup finals or chase the snowcat-towed Oasis Champagne Bar instead. EVENTS Aspen Gay Ski Week | Jan. 13-20, 2019 The week-long Aspen Gay Ski Week offers concerts, comedy shows, film screenings, symposiums and special dinners at a variety of restaurants and hotels throughout Aspen.

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ASPEN HIGHLANDS 1,053 ACRES | 5 LIFTS | 122 TRAILS Aspen Highlands might be best defined by what it isn’t, rather than what it is. It doesn’t get nearly the amount of traffic as Aspen Mountain, Buttermilk or Snowmass which is thanks, at least in part, to the mountain having no beginner terrain. In fact, 65 percent of the trails are double black diamond. The Company recently completed a three-year glading project at Aspen Highlands which included clearing out new lines in the steep and wooded Lucky Find area of Temerity.

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HIGHLIGHTS Highlands also has an Aspen institution in its midsts: Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro. Read more about Cloud Nine and other options for unique dining West of 105 on page 78. EVENTS Snowcat Dinners at Cloud Nine | Wednesday and Thursday evenings until April 4, 2019 Hop on a snowcat for a ride to and from the restaurant where you’ll indulge in a four-course meal (not recommended for children).

Photos: (this page top) Jesse Hoffman / Aspen Snowmass; (this page bottom) Tamara Susa / Aspen Snowmass; (opposite page top) Purgatory; opposite page (bottom) Carl Frey / Winter Park Resort


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PURGATORY 1,605 ACRES | 12 LIFTS | 101 TRAILS Averaging 260 inches of snow a year, Purgatory is pretty consistent when it comes to snow. And just in case there is a problem, 250 acres are covered with snow-making equipment. A dozen lifts serve 101 trails that have a nice mix of difficulty levels. Purgatory has two new gladed tree skiing trails on the front side of the mountain. Mark’s Park is an intermediate trail with natural terrain park features. The other trail is a beginner gladed tree skiing trail near lift two. Also new for this ski season is the Inferno Mountain Coaster. The Inferno is 4,000 feet long with a 300 foot vertical drop, nine

switchbacks and one 360 degree loop. HIGHLIGHTS Parents will be pleased to hear about Power Kids Passes. All kids aged 10 and younger receive a free season pass. EVENTS Free Yoga | Sat and Sun YogaDurango will be offering free yoga to everyone this season. Classes will be held at the Durango Mountain Institute next to lift one in the base area. Snowcat Dinner | Jan. 19, Feb. 23, March 23, 2019 Enjoy a ride in an enclosed snowcat up to Powderhouse Restaurant where you’ll enjoy a themed dinner.

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WINTER PARK 3,081 ACRES | 21 LIFTS | 145 TRAILS Close enough to Denver for a day trip, but tucked away in the Rockies, Winter Park is a fantastic place that is practically on Denver’s doorstep. A new 10-person gondola, scheduled to open midDecember, will cut the amount of time spent waiting to ski or board; the Village Plaza has a new stage and a fire pit, both of which will come in handy after the mountain closes for the night; and just in case there is a snow problem, 40,000 feet of new pipe and new snowmaking guns have increased snow making capacity by 300 percent. HIGHLIGHTS With resorts all over the state competing for your

ski season dollars, Winter Park has something no other resort has: a train. Not strictly the resort’s train (not at all in fact), Amtrak’s Winter Park Express makes its way from Denver’s amazing Union Station to Winter Park every Saturday and Sunday (as well as the first two Fridays of each month) between Jan. 4 and March 31, 2019. As scenic as it is convenient, spots tend to get booked up, so plan ahead. EVENTS Winter Park Resort’s Mountaintop Music Series | Jan. 3 - March 30, 2019 The music series will see performances by local and regional musical acts throughout the season as the sun sets over Byer’s Peak.

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TELLURIDE 2,000 ACRES | 19 LIFTS | 148 TRAILS Telluride is one of the gems of the San Juan Mountains. The historic mountain town is complemented by a worldclass ski resort perched on the mountain above Telluride. This year, the resort has joined Vail Resorts’ Epic Pass. Pass holders will get seven days access to the resort with no blackout dates after which lift tickets are half price. In return, Telluride Pass holders receive 50 percent off lift tickets at all Vail Resorts properties. HIGHLIGHTS The resort’s newly-released app is a wealth of useful knowledge including info on snow and weather conditions, the status of lifts and groomed and closed runs. It will also record your runs so

you can check off trails. The free gondola connecting the historic town with Mountain Village is nice for non-skiers and those who want a day off skiing and explore Mountain Village where some great dining options await: See our “24 Hours in Telluride” article from issue number one here. EVENTS Warren Miller’s “Face of Winter” | Dec. 23 A Christmas tradition, the latest Warren Miller film will debut at the historic Sheridan Opera House. Christmas Eve Torchlight Parade | Dec. 24 Watch as Telluride Ski Resort employees ski down the mountain with torches to light up the mountainside.

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ARAPAHOE BASIN 1,428 ACRES | 9 LIFTS | 145 TRAILS A-Basin, as it is commonly referred to, is just over 60 miles from Denver making it a popular spot for city dwellers. A-Basin is set to complete the two-year process of opening the expanded Beavers and Steep Gullies areas for the 2018-19 season, adding 468 acres of new intermediate and expert terrain to the 371 acres of terrain that opened last season. A new lift will serve the Beavers area, while Steep Gullies will remain hike back and expert terrain.

HIGHLIGHTS Tailgating in the slope-side parking area “The Beach.” A-Basin is also good for those looking to squeeze every day out of ski season as it is typically the last to close. EVENTS Rise and Shine Rando Series | Dec 4. - Jan. 8, 22, 2019 The five-part series of uphill challenges on select Tuesday mornings start in the Mountain Goat Plaza at 10,870 feet and finish near the summit at 12,474 feet.

30 Photos: (this page top): Telluride Ski Resort / (this page bottom): David Camara


WEST OF 105 | OUTDOORS

Photo: Jack Affleck / Vail Resorts

NIGHT SKIING HESPERUS HILL This small ski area is known for its night skiing. Unfortunately last year its sister resort, Purgatory, had to offer night skiing as there wasn’t enough snow at the resort. Fingers crossed for plenty of snow this season! GRANBY RANCH Catch the sunset and ski into the night with Ski Granby Ranch’s monthly night skiing sessions from 4 pm - 8 pm. This season’s dates are: Dec. 29, Jan. 19, Feb. 16, March 16 KEYSTONE With the longest ski day in Colorado, this family-friendly resort offers night skiing nearly every night of the season. Visit their website for a night skiing trail map.

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STEAMBOAT SPRINGS Night skiing is available on select dates throughout the season. Accessed via the Christie Peak express chairlift, there are five trails: two beginner, two intermediate and one advanced. Rates are lower if purchased at least a week in advance. HOWELSEN HILL Colorado’s oldest ski resort offers night skiing throughout the season from Tuesday to Friday until 6 pm or 8 pm depending on the day. ECHO MOUNTAIN Night skiing is included in all day passes, or you can purchase a night pass. Skiing is from 4:30 pm 9 pm from Tuesday to Saturday.

LEE’S HILL

Lee’s Ski Hill is exactly what it sounds like, a hill. Located on 3rd Avenue in Ouray, the hill operates from noon to 5 pm on weekends and holidays and after school during the week from 3:30 pm to 5 pm. Let the Ouray rope-tow bring you to the top of the slope so you can enjoy the 75 feet of vertical drop.

HIGHLIGHTS Being in beautiful and quaint Ouray is a highlight most resorts can’t compete with. Consider visiting a hot spring (read more on page 50). EVENTS Ice Festival | Jan. 24 - 27, 2019 See some of the world’s best ice climbing talent compete.

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COPPER MOUNTAIN 2,490 ACRES | 24 LIFTS | 142 TRAILS Copper Mountain, part of the Ikon Pass, has introduced a number of upgrades including the new American Eagle (increasing uphill capacity by an impressive 40 percent) and American Flyer chairlifts; a dog-friendly patio bar and restaurant; and better parking and bus transportation. There is also a tubing hill, coaster and the free ski-with-a-ranger program. HIGHLIGHTS Mix up your time at Copper with a short mixology course. Toast & Co. is offering the course on select weekends throughout the season. Create seasonal concoctions using your favorite ingredients under the tutelage of a mixologist.

EVENTS Toyota U.S. Grand Prix | Dec. 2-8 The world’s best snowboarders and freeskiers will hit the 22-foot superpipe to try and qualify for the Olympics and win $400,000 in prize money. Colorado Special Olympics Winter Games | March 2-3, 2019 Come and support amazing athletes as they compete in events including alpine skiing, cross country skiing, snowshoeing and snowboarding. Copper Uncorked | March 16, 2019 Copper chefs compete for the best wing recipe and wine pairing

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STEAMBOAT SPRINGS 2,965 ACRES | 18 LIFTS | 165 TRAILS Steamboat calls itself Ski Town, U.S.A., and with an Olympic pedigree that saw 15 residents go to the 2018 Games, it would seem justified. In addition to the mammoth task of replacing and relocating all on-mountain signage to make it easier to navigate the mountain, Steamboat has added to its already impressive list of nonstop flight markets with three new destinations for this winter: Boston, Ft. Lauderdale and Long Beach. It is also on the Ikon Pass. HIGHLIGHTS This winter Steamboat has taken slope-side dining to a new level with Taco Beast, an on-mountain snowcat

that brings the tacos to you. Serving “trail tacos” and Mexican-style beer, Taco Beast will roam the mountain dishing out tacos all season. Steamboat offers night skiing and boarding from mid-December through late March, Thursday through Monday from 5:30 pm to 8:30 pm with hours changing to 6 pm and 9 pm in spring. EVENTS Friday Nights at Steamboat | Select Friday nights from Dec. 21 are celebrated at Steamboat Mountain with a host of events including night skiing, rides on the Outlaw Mountain Coaster, a ski parade, fireworks and live music in Gondola Square.

Photos: (this page top): Tripp Fay / Copper Mountain Resort; (this page bottom): Larry Pierce / Steamboat Ski Resort; (opposite page left): Powderhorn Ski Resort; (opposite page right): Ski Loveland


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WOLF CREEK

SKI COOPER

1,600 ACRES | 9 LIFTS | 120 TRAILS

400 ACRES | 4 LIFTS | 41 TRAILS

This season will see a new high-speed detachable quad installed. The resort is also celebrating its first anniversary of using 100 percent solar energy (courtesy of the Penitente Solar Project in the San Luis Valley). HIGHLIGHTS On top of skiing, Wolf Creek offers a complimentary Nordic track in the

enchanting Alberta Lake area. There is mixed openmeadow and tree skiing with a few different loops on just over six miles of groomed track. EVENTS Scattered throughout ski season, Wolf Creek will be holding a number of customer appreciation days where visitors will be able to purchase lift tickets for $50.

Originally the location of Camp Hale, Ski Cooper is the spiritual home of the 10th Mountain Division. While small, it offers terrain suitable for all abilities including what they call “the finest learning and beginner terrain in the country.” HIGHLIGHTS The 260 inches of natural snow Ski Cooper gets each season stays fluffier and

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drier than a lot of other resorts thanks to a base elevation of 10,500 feet. The resort also rotates their grooming terrain so as to not over-groom trails which can result in hardpack. EVENTS Cooper Cup | Various dates A series of downhill races that take place throughout the season. Race number one is on Dec. 17, 2018.

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POWDERHORN

LOVELAND

1,600 ACRES | 5 LIFTS | 42 TRAILS

1,800 ACRES | 11 LIFTS | 94 TRAILS

Located in the heart of Grand Mesa, Powderhorn has prided itself on offering affordable skiing for over 50 years. HIGHLIGHTS For the 2018/19 season, Powderhorn’s “Mission: Affordable” initiative will offer free ski and ride lessons to beginners and first-time skiers and snowboarders.

See the resort’s website for details. EVENTS Opening Weekend Party | Dec. 13 Peach Street Distillers will be offering drink specials at the Sunset Bar and the Powderhorn Pub. Gilson snowboards will be at the base of the resort demoing their new boards, too.

Loveland’s new lift, Chet’s Dream, is the resort’s first high-speed lift and will cut ride time down from eight minutes to under three minutes. HIGHLIGHTS Loveland has a free snowcat skiing operation along the Continental Divide. See the resort’s website for details.

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EVENTS Ski Hooky Days | Jan. 10, Feb. 14, March 14, 2019 Ski Hooky Days with 95.7 FM The Party and Oskar Blues Brewing are returning to Loveland. Sign up as a Party VIP and get a $25 lift ticket, beer specials and a chance to win swag from Icelantic Skis. Don’t want to drive? Hop on the Oskar Blues Brewski Bus. 33


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MONARCH

HESPERUS HILL

800 ACRES | 6 LIFTS | 64 TRAILS

60 ACRES | 1 LIFT | 26 TRAILS

Independently owned, Monarch Mountain sits at the top of the Continental Divide. Rarely crowded, powder can last days instead of hours like at more popular resorts. HIGHLIGHTS If backcountry is more your speed, the guided snowcat

operation will wear out any expert skier with an additional 1,635 acres of steep, technical terrain. EVENTS Every Friday in December, January and February visitors can ski with a naturalist who will talk about the ecology of the area.

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Minutes from downtown Durango, Hesperus is a relative minnow at 60 acres, but good things often come in small packages, particularly if you want to avoid the crowds at larger resorts. HIGHLIGHTS This resort may be small, but it’s quite popular and well

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ECHO MOUNTAIN

SUNLIGHT MOUNTAIN

60 ACRES | 1 LIFT | 3-4 TRAILS

680 ACRES | 3 LIFTS | 67 TRAILS

Echo Mountain has changed hands several times since it opened in 1960, including periods when it wasn’t even open to the public. In October 2016 it returned back to its original purpose as an affordable (season passes are $249) public ski area less than an hour from downtown Denver.

HIGHLIGHTS Echo Mountain Ambassadors are ski coaches that can be found all over the beginner area and throughout the mountain. They offer coaching and tips at no extra charge. There is also an expanded beginner area with twice as much terrain as last year. Also new this season is a tubing hill.

Sunlight Mountain has 67 trails (which all lead back to the lodge), free parking and, according to the resort at least, you’ll never have to stand in line. And the lack of crowds means the powder lasts for days. About 50 percent of Sunlight’s terrain is rated as beginner or intermediate, perfect for those just starting out.

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HIGHLIGHTS Sunlight’s East Ridge has a particularly steep run for those looking for something more challenging. EVENTS SnowShoe Shuffle | Feb. 17, 2019 The five-mile snowshoe race benefits Colorado Animal Rescue.

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ELDORA

SILVERTON

680 ACRES | 10 LIFTS | 64 TRAILS

1,819 ACRES | 1 LIFT

Conceived in the 1960’s, Eldora has been serving skiers in and around Boulder for decades; it is now part of the Ikon Pass. HIGHLIGHTS Eldora is the only ski area served by the RTD public transportation system. You can get from downtown Boulder to Eldora in about

40 minutes. Parking is free at several RTD stops in the area, too. EVENTS Denver’s 10 Barrel Brewing is holding a series of events at Eldora including several Pray for Snow parties that include DJs, games, giveaways and 10 Barrel beer specials.

Silverton Mountain’s one chairlift grants access to a high alpine environment of 1,819 acres of amazing descents in every direction including bowls, chutes and cliffs. Silverton Mountain is also the highest and steepest ski area in North America with a peak elevation of 13,487’ and no easy way down.

Photo: Monarch Mountain

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known for its night skiing. Hesperus Hill also allows ski bikes at the resort, (guests must have a retention device for the lift). Tubing is another activity on offer (no personal tubes are allowed so the resort offers rentals) as is the growing sport of uphill skiing (read more on page 17).

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HIGHLIGHTS Heli skiing is available seven days a week at Silverton Mountain and it is the only ski area in the US that offers single heli drops. EVENTS Silverton Whiteout | Feb. 9, 2019 The 10-hour fat tire bike race has a variety of associated events


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SKI GRANBY RANCH 406 ACRES | 5 LIFTS | 40 TRAILS Located 90 minutes west of Denver, Granby Ranch is family-owned and is great for all abilities and ages. All trails start and end at the base. HIGHLIGHTS The resort also offers very affordable night skiing every month and there are Nordic skiing and snowshoeing trails at the ranch, too.

EVENTS Food Drive | Dec. 15 Donate a bag of food or toiletries and receive a free lift ticket for that day Ski with Santa | Dec. 22 - 23 Spot Santa on the slopes as he skis around Granby Ranch. Christmas Eve | Dec. 24 Festive fun including Santa arriving on a snowmobile.

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HOWELSEN HILL 50 ACRES | 4 LIFTS | 17 TRAILS North America’s oldest operating ski area, Howelsen Hill is owned and operated by the City of Steamboat Springs. HIGHLIGHTS Howelsen Hill hosts free skiing every Sunday throughout the winter season as a way to celebrate the community’s Olympic history; since 1915,

Howelsen Hill has produced nearly 100 winter Olympians. Stop in at the lodge to pick up your free ticket. EVENTS Ski with a naturalist at the top of Why Not trail every Tuesday and Thursday until March 14. Alternatively, visit Howelsen Hill to watch the FIS Continental Cup on Dec. 14 and 15.

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KENDALL MOUNTAIN 16 ACRES | 1 LIFT | 4 TRAILS Silverton’s Kendall Mountain offers family fun with four groomed trails, multiple tree runs, a small terrain park and a double chair lift.

HIGHLIGHTS The Town Loop offers approximately 2.5 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails right in town.

Skating, sledding, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are allowed any time.

EVENTS Snowscape | Feb. 8 - 10, 2019 Silverton’s annual winter carnival

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NORDIC SKIING

NORDIC OR CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING IS A MORE SEDATE BUT NO LESS ATHLETIC WINTER PURSUIT. HUGELY POPULAR IN COLORADO, IT IS ALMOST ALWAYS FREE, WHICH ADDS TO ITS APPEAL.

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Photos (top): Aspen Snowmass; (bottom left and right): Matt Inde


en / Miles

WEST OF 105 | OUTDOORS While there are a lot of groomed trails in and around towns across the state, Nordic skiing is also a great way to get out into the backcountry and see parts of Colorado you otherwise wouldn’t. With more than 20 Nordic centers, Colorado once again proves it’s the best place in the country for winter activities.

GRAND MESA The largest flat-top mountain in the world, Grand Mesa near Grand Junction has exquisite landscapes and gentle terrain. The Grand Mesa Nordic Council (GMNC) grooms and maintains 31 miles of ski trails on the Skyway, County Line and Ward trail systems on Grand Mesa. The Skyway trail system offers great views of the Bookcliffs (shale walls resembling book spines). The Skyway and County Line Nordic areas have separate trailheads about two miles apart on Highway 65 but are connected by Kannah Crossing and Scales Lake Road. The trails are easy to moderate with a maximum elevation change of 50 feet. Visit the GMNC website for more information.

CRESTED BUTTE The self-proclaimed Nordic Ski Capital of Colorado, there can be no denying Crested Butte is an incredible place for winter activities. Crested Butte Nordic, the nonprofit that maintains around 30 miles of scenic cross-country ski and snowshoe trails around town, offers everything you need to get started with Nordic skiing including rentals, lessons, tours and even a gourmet backcountry dining experience (see page 78). The trails are grouped into three sections: Bench Trails, which are best skied with the morning sun or with storms as the forest offers great protection from the elements; the West Side Trails which are sunny and warm until early afternoon and then cool down once the sun dips behind Mount Emmons; and the East Side Trails which hold the sun into late afternoon. As for particular runs, Ruthie’s Run is a 3.1-mile FIS (International Federation of Skiing) race course. It isn’t for beginners, but those with

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some experience, can pit themselves yourself against the best in the world. Pooch’s Paradise is a dog-friendly 1.8mile course. The Nordic Center and trailheads are all within walking distance from downtown.

ASPEN With a whopping 60 miles of free cross-country ski and snowshoe trails between Aspen, Snowmass and Basalt, the Aspen Snowmass Nordic trail system is one of the largest free trail systems in the country. Starting out over 30 years ago with a group of volunteers setting trails on Aspen Golf Course, the trail system is maintained by the nonprofit Aspen Snowmass Nordic Council and is an integral part of the Roaring Fork Valley experience. The longest trail in the system is the Aspen to Rio Grande trail at 42 miles, but a much more manageable journey is the 13 or so miles out to the eclectic Woody Creek Tavern. Have a beer and refuel before heading back. For something in between the two, Aspen to Basalt is 23 miles. The system also hosts two fully outfitted cross country centers. Visit the group’s website for up-to-date info about the trails.

EVENTS The America’s Uphill, held on March 9, 2019, is a longtime Aspen favorite that attracts hundreds of racers each year. The race brings together skiers, runners and snowshoers for a 2.5 mile, 3,000’ vertical climb up Aspen Mountain. The 33rd annual Nordic Alley Loop Nordic Marathon takes place on Feb. 2, 2019. Elk Avenue, Crested Butte’s main drag, becomes snow-packed giving Nordic skiers of all ages and ability levels the chance to participate in the Saturday races. The party, however, begins on Friday evening as the annual Pub Ski kicks off at local pub Talk of the Town. The Pub Ski requires participants to answer trivia, overcome challenges and be “uniquely Crested Butte” at each of the different bars on Elk Ave. Of course, those in costume receive bonus points. Visit the group’s website for more info.

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ICE FISHING

PERHAPS THE MOST TRANQUIL AND RESTFUL WINTER PURSUIT OF ALL IS ICE FISHING. WHETHER YOU GO DOWN THE BASIC ROUTE OF SETTING UP A CHAIR, CUTTING A HOLE AND WAITING OR GET FANCY WITH AN ICE-FISHING CABIN, THERE ARE PLENTY OF OPTIONS WEST OF 105.

GRAND COUNTY

RIO BLANCO COUNTY

GUNNISON COUNTY

The lakes of Grand County are home to some of the best ice fishing anywhere.

Rio Blanco County has a multitude of ice fishing opportunities throughout the county. Kenney Reservoir, Rio Blanco Lake and Lake Avery are easily accessible thanks to maintained roads, with the latter having an annual family ice fishing day. Hosted by the Colorado Parks and Wildlife and Meeker Recreation District, it is free to attend (although anglers 16 and over need a fishing license). Jan. 5, 10 am-2 pm. Try your luck catching a variety of trout, crappie and bluegill.

Blue Mesa, the largest body of water in the state, is close to Gunnison, Crested Butte, and Montrose (and not too far from Ouray, Ridgway and Grand Junction). The reservoir has kokanee salmon, brown trout, rainbow trout, perch, suckers and lake trout. You can pretty much fish wherever you can safely get to the ice, but the Iola Basin area is one of the more popular spots.

Lake Granby, the third largest body of water in the state at 7,250 surface acres, is one of the three bodies of water from the three lake ice-fishing contest (along with Shadow Mountain Lake and Grand Lake, the latter being the state’s largest natural body of water). Lake Granby offers rainbow trout, brown trout, lake trout and kokanee salmon. Wolford Mountain Reservoir in Kremmling is another great place for ice fishing. Typically quieter than Lake Granby, the reservoir has rainbow trout, brown trout, kokanee salmon and northern pike. The Kremmling Area Chamber of Commerce hosts the annual Wolford Reservoir Ice Fishing Tournament every February.

38 Photos: Matthew Inden / Miles

There is breathtaking scenery and unmatched serenity at Trappers Lake and Lodge in White River National Forest. You’ll need to snowmobile (or maybe fat tire bike if you’re really hardcore) in for around 20 miles and then hike the last quarter of mile to the lake. Fish include brook trout, rainbow trout, brown trout and cutthroat trout.

Elsewhere in Gunnison County, Spring Creek Reservoir and Taylor Park Reservoir, a 2,000-surface-acre reservoir 29 miles northeast of Gunnison, are popular spots. Rainbow trout, brown trout, lake trout and northern pike are on offer. There are, of course, rules and regulations that differ by location, so be sure to check before you head out.


WEST OF 105 | OUTDOORS

@WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian Photos: Matt Inden / Miles

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ICE CLIMBING IT IS FAIR TO SAY THAT ICE CLIMBING IS SOMEWHAT OVERSHADOWED BY OTHER WINTER PURSUITS IN COLORADO, BUT THERE ARE A GOOD NUMBER OF PLACES WEST OF 105 WHERE YOU CAN SWITCH YOUR ROCK CLIMBING SHOES FOR ICE CLIMBING BOOTS.

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WEST OF 105 | OUTDOORS

OURAY The amazing mountain town of Ouray is considered by many to be the iceclimbing capital of the world. A manmade venue, Ouray Ice Park sits in the deep, shady and cold Uncompahgre Gorge and is within walking distance of downtown Ouray. With hundreds of named ice and mixed climbs, most within a 15-minute walk of the park entrance, 11 distinct climbing areas and three miles of vertical terrain, Ouray Ice Park is THE place for ice climbing. And best of all, it’s free. There are numerous other climbs in the area including many that are just off Camp Bird Road outside Ouray including Chockstone Chimney, Slip Slidin’ Away and Birdbrain Boulevard. There are even more near Eureka, including the charmingly-named Whorehouse Hoses and the much nicer sounding Stairway to Heaven.

LAKE CITY Less well known than Ouray Ice Park is Lake City Ice Park. A beautiful and historic mining town, Lake City is perhaps better known for its association with cannibal Alferd Packer. But climbing fans know that in winter Lake City becomes one of the best places in Colorado to get their ice climbing fix. Climbing started in Lake City about a decade ago, but since then more and more climbs have been created in the park which is just one block south of town. Currently there are around 15 established routes. And like Ouray Ice Park, there is no charge to climb at Lake City Ice Park.

climbs that form every winter (when exactly depends on the weather as Rifle is at a lower elevation than other good climbing areas) including Final Curtain, Soul On Ice and Tree Slab which is very close to the parking lot. Beautiful Glenwood Canyon may only have half a dozen or so routes for ice climbing, but what it lacks in number it makes up for in quality. Most of the routes are either up Glenwood Falls or Hidden Falls. Then there is Deep Throat which made it into Mark Kroese’s book “Fifty Favorite Climbs: The Ultimate North American Tick List.” For obvious reasons, it is not recommended that absolute beginners take on a climb without guidance. There are lots of companies that offer guided climbs at Ouray Ice Park, Lake City Ice Park and in and around Rifle. Beginners looking for instruction or climbers looking for a guide can visit the website of the American Alpine Institute. They offer introductory to multi-day programs. No matter where you get your instruction, make sure your guide is certified. The American Alpine Institute, Irwin Mountain Guides and Kling Mountain Guides also offer all kinds of classes and programs.

EVENTS The 24th Annual 2019 Ouray Ice Festival will be held Jan. 24-27, 2019 The one-day Lake City Ice Climbing Festival will be held Feb. 9, 2019.

GLENWOOD SPRINGS AND RIFLE Somewhat off the beaten path, but also quite literally off Interstate 70, the tiny town of Rifle and nearby Glenwood Springs offer a few good ice-climbing routes that are well known and liked by local climbers. Rifle Mountain Park, formed thanks to a 1910 Special Act passed by Congress that granted a number of municipalities the chance to claim land to make them into parks, has over 250 bolted rockclimbing routes. There are a few ice Photos (opposite page) Rob McGovern / Period Communications, (this page, top and bottom): Matt Inden / Miles

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OFF TH FOR THOSE WHO LIKE TO STAY AWAY FROM THE CROWDS AND COMMUNE WITH NATURE, THE BACKCOUNTRY IS THE PLACE TO GO. WITH DOZENS OF HUTS SCAT TERED ACROSS THE STATE, COLORADO OFFERS A BACKCOUNTRY EXPERIENCE FOR EVERYONE.

Photo: Brett Schrekenghost

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To complete the stone work on the foundation more than fifteen pallets of bagged mortar were carried up the summer trail.

Opus Hut Bob Kingsley spent years working in construction and as a guide on the Tenth Mountain Hut System, all the while searching for an ideal location for a mountain hut of his own. He eventually came across a mining claim above Ophir Pass Road that he thought could work. Five years later, Opus Hut was finished.

somewhat less rustic than other huts on this list. There are also meal packages (breakfast, soup in the afternoon and dinner). Pets are allowed, but personal alcohol is not as the Opus Hut is actually a licensed tavern in the state of Colorado. However, alcoholic and other beverages are available for purchase; tea is complimentary.

With four rooms (you can rent a room or just a bed), a wood-fired sauna, indoor composting toilets and filtered water, Opus is

Access: In winter, guests can access the hut by snowshoeing or skinning 3.5 miles from two separate directions.

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2 Formerly a “glorified ice fishing shack,” Kip and his friends renovated and added on to it to make it what it is today.

Fisher Mountain Hut One of two properties that together are Creede Mountain Huts, husband and wife team Kerry Rice and Kip Nagy have owned Fisher Mountain Hut for about 12 years. Located in a relatively remote area of the eastern San Juan Mountains, it offers access to cross-country skiing for all levels. Like the vast majority of backcountry huts, cooking utensils are provided as is wood for the wood burning stove. The cooking stove is propane. Access: You can snowshoe, ski or snowmobile to the hut; allow four hours if you are on skis or snowshoes.

3 Spruce Hole offers unique opportunities for star gazing thanks to the “viewing chair” in the middle of the yurt. Climb up and sit in the dome of the yurt to view the night sky. There is also a telescope on the deck.

4 The area averages over 400 inches of snow a year and is sometimes used for search and rescue training and avalanche education.

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Hidden Treasure Yurts Hidden Treasure Yurts is a pair of yurts at 11,200 feet in Eagle County. Each of the large yurts can sleep up to eight people. Originally a gold mining operation established in the 1880s, the four mining claims were sold by the family of the original owners. In 1996 the yurts were installed and sold to the current owners in 2014. Access: The trip (6.2 miles with a 2,140 feet elevation gain) requires skills in backcountry navigation, group dynamics, leadership and avalanche awareness and is not recommended for beginners.

Spruce Hole Yurt Located in the Rio Grande National Forest, Spruce Hole Yurt was built in 1998. In operation between October and April each year, the area around Spruce Hole offers a range of terrains for cross-country skiing. The yurt can sleep a total of six people. There is a wood stove (and plenty of wood under the yurt) for heating, solar lights and a charging station as well as a two-burner gas range for cooking. Access: The yurt is 2.5 miles from the highway and visitors must cross-country ski or snowshoe in. The trail to the yurt is ideal for beginners, but it is not groomed.


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A collection of huts scattered around Summit County

Summit Huts Francie’s Cabin is south of Breckenridge and is a great hut for beginners and families. Built in 1994 and named for Frances Lockwood Bailey, a former resident of Breckenridge who died in a tragic plane crash in 1989, Francie’s Cabin has a wood-burning sauna (firewood is provided), a wood-burning stove for heat, solar powered lights, an indoor composting toilet and a fully-equipped kitchen. The other huts in the system include Janet’s Cabin, the first hut in the Summit hut system,

6 Currently offering two yurts on a year-round basis, Hinsdale Haute Route is the highest hut system in Colorado.

which is located between Copper Mountain Resort and Vail Pass and just off the Colorado Trail; Ken’s Cabin, a rustic hut that can accommodate two or three people was originally built in the 1860’s. The cabin has no insulation in the ceiling (per request of the State Historical Society), the sink drains into a bucket and the outhouse is shared with guests of the Section House (the fourth cabin); and Sisters Cabin (pictured here), the newest cabin in the association that will open soon.

Hinsdale Haute Route The Jon Wilson Memorial Yurt is good for families thanks to its ease of access and lack of avalanche danger. Offering fantastic views of Lake San Cristobal and the Lake Fork Valley, Sunshine Peak and Lake City, the yurt is 20 feet in diameter and capable of accommodating up to eight people (with a combination of bunk beds and cots with pads). It has double pane glass windows, a wood stove with fire wood, a four burner propane stove with oven and a small charcoal grill with charcoal and starter fluid. The kitchen sink has a bucket which needs to emptied outside away from the yurt. The Jon Wilson Memorial Yurt is also a good place to start a trip to the Colorado Trail Friends Yurt, the second hut in the system. Photo: (opposite page top to bottom) Creede Mountain Huts; ; Lost Wonder Hut, Hidden Treasure Yurts; (this page top to bottom): Summit Huts; Hinsdale Haute Route

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Lost Wonder Hut is one of only a few that allows dogs, partly because the on-property spring means you do not need to melt snow for drinking water.

Lost Wonder Hut Located close to Monarch ski area, the Lost Wonder Hut is on the larger side and is able to accommodate more than a dozen people. The hut is popular with families thanks to ease of access for younger, older and disabled people. Access: Easily accessible by beginner snowshoers and cross-country skiers, the hut is less than three miles from the trailhead. It is also accessible by snowmobiles which create a track that can be skied or even walked down.

8 There is no cell phone service or electrical outlets at High Camp Hut, which makes it a great choice if you want to truly unplug for a few days.

9 Grand Huts Association, a nonprofit community organization, manages Broome Hut which has been in since 2013.

High Camp Hut The sturdy and cozy cabin has five bedrooms and a loft as well as a spacious living and dining area. The cabin is heated by a huge pot belly stove which can be loaded up with wood to keep the cabin warm all night. Last year, a wood-fired sauna was added next to the lodge. There is a hill right outside that is great for sledding and there is good intermediate skiing nearby. Access: A 2.5-mile (with 1,000 feet in elevation gain) ski or snowshoe trip, visitors should allow around two hours to reach the hut.

Broome Hut Broome Hut is a 1,700-square-foot, 18-person hut in a high alpine valley, and at 11,300 feet it is a great option for skiing. The hut is also an “air tight” energy efficient hut as it was built from a combination of foam panels with a traditional timber frame made from local beetle kill timber. It is also the closest major hut to Denver. Pets aren’t allowed at Broome Hut. Access: The one mile trek is relatively easy in nice weather. Ski access, however, is relatively steep. Skins and Alpine touring equipment is recommended.

Photos: (this page) Rob McGover / Period Comms; (opposite page Chris Latham Photograph Photos: (top to bottom) Lost Wonder Hut; High Camp Hut / Cindy Farny; Broome Hut / Kent Asche


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This pair of yurts - Emma and Marceline - were eventually erected on the Helen Mining claim after the land was purchased by a trio of investors in 2002.

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Leadville Backcountry Located above the pristine Empire Reservoir at 12,000 feet, the two yurts are nestled behind the Mosquito Mountain Range and Mt. Sherman. The ridge behind the yurts offers views of Mt. Elbert, Mt. Massive and the Collegiate ranges (this is also the place to go for cell phone service). Both yurts are set up the same and can accommodate five people in a split bunk bed and a second queen bed. Both have wood stoves (with plenty of wood stocked inside the yurt and in the wood shed) for heating and a propane stove and oven for cooking. Aside from the views, the area also offers wildlife viewing (elk, deer and red-tail hawks among others) as well as bowl skiing, although you will have to walk to the top of the bowl so you’ll probably only feel like doing a few runs. Access: At 12,000 feet and requiring a 5.5mile cross-country ski or snowshoe trek with 3,000 feet elevation gain, these yurts are not recommended for beginners.

11 The San Juan Hut System links Telluride to Ouray and follows the Sneffels Range below 14,000 foot alpine peaks.

10th Mountain Hut Division Association Conceived by Fritz Benedict, an architect who played a role in Aspen, Vail and other ski communities in Colorado, the 10th Mountain Division Hut System is made up of 34 huts that are connected by 350 miles of suggested routes. Influenced by a system of huts in New Hampshire and the famous skiing Haute Route between Chamonix, France and Zermatt, Switzerland, Benedict wanted to connect Aspen and Vail as a way to provide access to Colorado’s beautiful and challenging backcountry in winter as well as to honor the infantrymen of the 10th Mountain Division. In fact, much of the territory that now comprises the system was originally part of the training ground for 10th Mountain Division troops. In 1997, Fritz and his wife Fabi were themselves honored when two beautifully-crafted cabins were named for them. The system is managed by the 10th Mountain Division Hut Association, a nonprofit organization.

San Juan Hut System For those looking for a lengthy hut-to-hut experience, the San Juan Hut System offers five huts which are all connected via scenic US Forest Service roads and hiking trails surrounding the Mount Sneffels Wilderness Area. The 30ish-mile route is designed for intermediate skiers, but the areas around each hut provide terrain for more advanced skiers up to and including extreme powder skiing. You can also access huts individually.

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The shared huts can accommodate up to eight people per night and are equipped with a propane cooking stove, propane lights, wood stove, kitchen utensils and cookware and a composting toilet. The newest San Juan Hut experience is fat tire biking at Spring Creek Hut. Located around 20 miles outside of Montrose, the hut is located in the Uncompahgre National Forest. Access: Trails and levels required vary depending on each hut.

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12 The hut was built in the 1990’s on a mining claim from the late 1800’s called Aladdin’s Lamp.

Silverton Ski Hut Aladdin’s Lamp is the only hut on Molas Pass with convenient access to major ski lines on Grand Turk, Spencer Peak and the Sultan (three 13ers northwest of Molas Pass). There is also a more gentle north facing slope above the hut for those new to the backcountry. The area directly around the hut is free from avalanche hazards which makes it great for newcomers to the backcountry and those with children. Just across the highway is a

Photo: Kennan Harvey

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track set for snowmobiles which is perfect for cross-country skiing. The hut has a full kitchen with a wood stove for heat and for melting snow for water, an attached outhouse and solar lighting. The rustic hut can accommodate eight in a dormitory-style, single room upstairs. Access: The hut is just a quarter of a mile from the road and is relatively easy to access on cross-country skis or snowshoes.


WEST OF 105 | OUTDOORS GEAR FOR THE TREK

ATLAS | Spindrift Sprindrift snowshoes were designed for backcountry terrain, so are perfect for snowshoeing to these huts. Delivering speed and performance, they provide plenty of traction and have very secure bindings. They’re particularly good for steep ascents and descents. $269.95

TUBBS | Flex VRT These snowshoes are great for climbing in all conditions. They use BOA cinching for easy tightening. The toe-crampons give great traction, even on icy surfaces, and the womenspecific fit means that strides feel natural. There is also a men’s version available. $259.95

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DANNER | Raptor 650 Available for men and women (shown here) these durable and sturdy boots are comfortable and warm - a great choice for snowshoeing. With 400G PrimaLoft insulation and fleece-­ lined uppers, feet stay nice and toasty. Full-­grain leather and waterproof protection keeps out moisture. The boots also offer fantastic grip on wet, icy surfaces. $ 240 49


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HOT SPRINGS LOOPS

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And there is no better way to banish the chills than steeping yourself in a natural hot spring.

OLORADO is winter wonderland USA. With the best winter sports, activities and pursuits in the nation, it is a magnet for everyone from thrill seekers and Champagne drinkers to snowshoers and skidooers, but even the most ardent winter weather enthusiasts love nothing more than coming in from the cold and warming up.

50 Photo: Glenwood Hot Springs

Colorado has dozens of natural hot springs, some of which are in century-old facilities and others that are literally just off the side of the road. We’ve organized a dozen or so from across West of 105 into several easily navigable loops that can be integrated into any trip to the Centennial State.

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Northwest

S T E A M B O AT S P R I N G S | H O T S U L P H U R S P R I N G S

Photo: Strawberry Park Hot Springs / S. Larson

Strawberry Park Hot Springs

Old Town Hot Springs

Sitting alongside Hot Springs Creek just outside Steamboat and surrounded by the pristine beauty of Medicine Bow-Routt National Forests, Strawberry Park is a beautiful facility with four pools and several fantastic accommodation options including a renovated train caboose. The 104-degree F mineral water is soothing enough, but Strawberry Park also offers massage treatments in private huts and watsu therapy in a private pool. Being surrounded by nature, a four-wheel drive vehicle with snow chains or snow tires is required to get to the springs between Nov. 1 and May 1.

Located on Lincoln Avenue in the heart of downtown Steamboat Springs, Old Town Hot Springs is a family-friendly nonprofit with water slides, a fitness center, massage services and childcare in addition to eight geothermal pools. Open year round, the pools are fed by Heart Spring and the water comes right out of the ground at a very pleasant 103 degrees F. There are private cabanas if you want to make a day of it. Boasting over half the population of the town as members, Old Town Hot Springs is the prefect way to defrost after a day at nearby Howelsen Hill Ski Area.

S T E A M B O AT S P R I N G S

S T E A M B O AT S P R I N G S

Photos (this photo and above photo): Old Town Hot Springs

Photo: Mona K via Yelp

Hot Sulphur Springs Resort & Spa

HISTORIC HOT SPRINGS

HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS

This spring was originally a winter campground for Ute Indians who used the restorative and rejuvenating power of the hot springs for hundreds of years before William Byers somewhat unscrupulously took control of the waters in 1840. In operation for over a century, Hot Sulphur Springs Resort & Spa has seven natural springs that surface between 104 degrees F and 126 degrees F and fill the 21 mineral pools and baths. The resort also has lodging options (including an apartment and a lodge). Room rates include access to the pools. The spa also offers a range of wellness treatments, including several types of massages. 52

For hot springs goers who plan entire vacations around soaking in as many geothermal pools as possible and enjoy a side of history, the Colorado Historic Hot Springs Loop may be of interest. Five great hot springs locations have come together to form the Colorado Historic Hot Springs Loop. A whopper at 720 miles, the loop, which includes many of the hot springs in our story, offers insight into the historic origins of some of the state’s best hot springs. Head over to colorado.com to read more.

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Central Rockies

REDSTONE | CARBONDALE | GLENWOOD SPRINGS

Avalanche Ranch Cabins & Hot Springs REDSTONE

This 36-acre ranch alongside the Crystal River is surrounded by outstanding natural beauty. In addition to the three natural hot springs pools that cascade from one pool to the next, the largest of which is fed by a three-foot waterfall in front of a grotto, there are hiking trails, a stocked fishing pond and private riverfront access. With views of Mt. Sopris and Avalanche Creek Valley, Avalanche Ranch has several accommodation options including studios, one-, two- and three-bedroom cabins and converted covered wagons. All accommodation offers 24-hour access to the pools. Day visitors are required to make a reservation.

Glenwood Hot Springs Resort & Spa GLENWOOD SPRINGS

One of the better known hot springs in the state, Glenwood Hot Springs Resort has been curing ailments and relaxing aching muscles for over 130 years. Around an hour from both Aspen and Vail, the resort boasts the world’s largest hot springs pool, but its real beauty is that it is a family resort with something for everyone. In addition to the 1,071,000-gallon pool, there are two water slides, a mini-golf course and a fullservice spa. For those who want to stay for more than just the day, the 107-room Glenwood Hot Springs Lodge is on the grounds of the resort.

Iron Mountain Hot Springs GLENWOOD SPRINGS

Iron Mountain Hot Springs is one of the newest hot springs resorts in the state having opened in July 2015. Sitting on the east bank of the Colorado River, just west of Two Rivers Park in Glenwood Springs, the resort’s pools are fed by three springs that emerge on the property. The resort has a large family pool with 100,000 gallons of chlorinated fresh water and 16 smaller pools connected by heated walkways. The water in the 16 smaller pools is untreated and unfiltered and contains a natural white-colored algae that is said to aid in moisturizing the skin.

Photos (top right): Avalanche Ranch; (middle): Glenwood Hot Springs; (bottom right): Iron Mountain Hot Springs

FREE

Penny Hot Springs CARBONDALE

Penny Hot Springs is a steaming pool of mineral water in the middle of the Crystal River on Highway 133 between Carbondale and Redstone. At about 20 feet across and two feet deep, the pool can accommodate between 10-12 people. This most natural and unadulterated of hot springs is sectioned off from the river by large rocks, which can be moved around to adjust the temperature.

Originally the hot spring served Dan Penny’s (for whom the pool is now named) small hotel and bathhouse. In the 1960’s people starting soaking sans clothing and local residents were enraged to the point where the bathhouse was eventually bulldozed. The property the hot spring is on was acquired by Pitkin County in the early 90’s and restored for public use. There is no charge for using Penny Hot Springs, but please be sure to take away all trash and remember there are no bathroom facilities so plan accordingly.

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Southwest

PAGOSA SPRINGS | DURANGO

Overlook Hot Springs Spa

The Springs Resort & Spa

It will come as no surprise that a town with a name like Pagosa Springs has more than one hot springs option. Overlook Hot Springs has, as the name suggests, roof-top tubs where you can sit and look out over Pagosa’s Main Street and the San Juan River. The modest facility also has five indoor pools and one completely private tub. Overlook, like many of the hot spring facilities in the state, offers various massage treatments. Just half an hour from Wolf Creek Ski Area, it is a practical choice after a day on the slopes.

Across the San Juan River from Overlook Hot Springs Spa, the Springs Resort and Spa is a sprawling property that is home to the world’s deepest geothermal hot spring. There are almost two dozen mineral soaking pools (eight public, allage soaking tubs and five exclusive Relaxation Terrace pools for bathers aged 18 and over), a full-service spa and salon and a 79-room hotel that is heated by a geothermal system. Guests at the Lodge also get 24-hour access to the soaking pools. Five of the 23 pools are adult-only.

PAGOSA SPRINGS

PAGOSA SPRINGS

Photo (top left) Overlook Hot Springs; (top right and bottom left): Visit Pagosa Springs; (bottom right): Trimble Spa & Natural Hot Springs

Healing Waters Resort & Spa

Trimble Spa & Natural Hot Springs

In operation since 1950, the family-owned Healing Waters isn’t shy about touting its health credentials, it is in the name after all. The modestly-sized property offers a large outdoor swimming pool, an outdoor hot tub and separate men’s and women’s indoor hot baths, all of which are filled with unadulterated natural mineral water. There is also a spa that offers, among other treatments, aquastretch, which is a variant of water aerobics but in the muscle relaxing waters of the hot spring. Healing Waters also has a range of accommodation options including rooms, suites with kitchenettes and cabins.

One of the largest hot springs pools in the area, Trimble Spa & Natural Hot Springs is perfect for both relaxing and staying in shape throughout winter thanks to several lap lanes. The large pool is complemented by two therapy pools; there is also a sauna and a spa that offers various treatments from a small team of therapists. For those who want to stay overnight, there are a couple of options. The two-bedroom Trimble Guesthouse includes access to the pools during business hours, while the Starlight Room (a room that can accommodate two) comes with after-hours access to the Red Rock Pool. The property also has two resident cats that may come and visit.

PAGOSA SPRINGS

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DURANGO

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San Juans O U R AY | R I D G WAY

Twin Peaks Lodge and Hot Springs O U R AY

Twin Peaks Lodge & Hot Springs has an outdoor pool with a spectacular mountain view as well as two soaking tubs: an indoor tub for adults only and a second tub outdoors. All of the hot springs facilities at Twin Peaks are open 24 hours. The water comes out of the ground at a scorching 156 degrees F, but cold spring water is added to bring the temperature down to a more friendly temperature. Perhaps in an effort to make it stand out from the crowd, Twin Peaks has a tiki bar which is, sadly, seasonal and not open during winter.

The Historic Wiesbaden Hot Springs O U R AY

If anywhere can give Pagosa a run for the hot springs capital of Colorado, it is Ouray, the Switzerland of America. The Wiesbaden is one of four hot springs properties in town. Located at the south end of town, the historic property has a main outdoor pool, a natural vapor cave (which has an additional soaking pool) and the Lorelei, a private soaking pool fed by a small waterfall from the same source as the pool. The Wiesbaden also has a variety of accommodation options, from small rooms to entire off-site properties, each of which comes with unlimited use of the hot springs, vapor cave and outdoor pool. Access to the Lorelei is discounted for overnight guests.

Ouray Hot Springs Pool O U R AY

Photo (top left) Ouray Hot Springs Pool; (top right): The Historic Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa and Lodgings; (bottom left): Brent Bayless

Orvis Hot Springs

Surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty, the Ouray Hot Springs Pool is a community facility. In operation since 1927, the 750,000-gallon, sulfur-free mineral pool is open year round (parts of it at least). With five distinct sections — shallow, hot, lap, activity and the overlook (the latter being a space for those over 18 which closes during off season as does the activity area) — the Ouray Hot Springs offers something for everyone. The facility, which is owned and operated by the city of Ouray, reopened just over a year ago after an eight-month closure for a comprehensive renovation.

Box Canyon Lodge and Hot Springs

R I D G WAY

O U R AY

In nearby Ridgway and surrounded by the mountains, Orvis Hot Springs is one of the few clothing optional resorts around. There are six outdoor and three indoor options (bathing suits are required in the indoor pool between 7 am and 10 pm) and a sauna. A range of massage treatments are also available. Orvis also has six themed rooms for overnight stays. Bed and breakfast style, the rooms are tastefully decorated and share two full bathrooms that are accessed from a private hallway between rooms. Guests have 24-hour access to all of the hot springs facilities beginning the day of check-in through the entire day of checkout.

Also at the south end of Ouray (literally a two-minute walk from Twin Peaks), Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs pretty much backs up to the canyon. The 39-room property (with two large suites, two small suites, a honeymoon suite and an apartment) has four redwood soaking tubs that are terraced on the mountainside immediately behind the lodge with spectacular views. Big enough for about four people at a time, the tubs are exclusively for use by guests at the lodge. The hot springs water is also used throughout the lodge for heating during the winter months and, using a heat exchanger, is used to heat the domestic water.

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San Luis & Arkansas Valleys

B U E N A V I S TA | S A L I D A | N AT H R O P | V I L L A G R O V E | M O F FAT

Cottonwood Hot Springs Inn & Spa

B U E N A V I S TA

With several pools that range from 94 to 110 degrees F, Cottonwood Hot Springs caters to both day visitors and, thanks to creekside cabins and a lodge, overnight visitors, too. However long you are staying, Cottonwood offers various spa services including Swedish and deep tissue massages, hot stone therapy, salt scrubs, herbal wraps, aromatherapy, shiatsu and reflexology.

Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort N AT H R O P

One of the better known hot springs in Colorado, Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort is a luxurious property in the mountains that has several geothermal springs. With 30 small pools in Chalk Creek, which runs alongside the property, as well as a historic bathhouse and the Upper Pools that are connected by a lazy river and features a 400’ water slide, Mount Princeton lives up to its name as a resort. It also happens to be close to both Monarch and Ski Cooper ski areas and so is popular in winter as an après ski destination. The surrounding scenery also helps to relax your mind as the geothermal water goes to work on your muscles.

Antero Hot Springs Cabins N AT H R O P

Along the banks of Chalk Creek (the same creek that provides Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort with its 30 pools) in San Isabel National Forest, the three Antero Hot Springs cabins each come with a hot spring pool and, naturally, amazing views of the mountains. There is a range of extras that can be arranged including a visit from a massage therapist or a private yoga class.

Salida Hot Springs Aquatic Center SALIDA

Open year round, the Salida Hot Springs Aquatic Center is located right in downtown Salida. Operated by the city, it is a community facility with a lap pool, fitness classes, a water slide and other activities for kids as well as a pool that is used for arthritis therapy among other things. There are also private soaking pools which can be reserved in advance.

Valley View Hot Springs

M O F FAT

VILLA GROVE

A clothing-optional resort, Valley View Hot Springs is an hour from Alamosa and 45 minutes from Salida. Orient Land Trust, the nonprofit that operates Valley View, strictly limits the number of day and overnight visitors, so reservations are recommended. Six all-natural soaking ponds are found along wilderness trails while a hot tub and swimming pool are also available. The resort is closed from Dec. 1 - Dec. 29.

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Joyful Journey Hot Springs Spa Bubbling up from beneath the Sangre de Cristo Mountains at 140 degrees F, Joyful Journey Hot Springs Spa (open every day of the year) in Moffat, which is pretty much equidistant from both Alamosa and Salida, has three gravity-fed pools that range in temperature from 98 to 110 degrees F. Pools are emptied, cleaned and refilled daily. This San Luis Valley hot spring also has some pretty unique lodging options including a yurt and a tiny tipi village.

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DESTINATIONS

Page 58 - Spotlight On Aspen

Think Aspen is just celebrities and skiing? Think again. There is much more to the skiing mecca than you think

Page 66 - Breckenridge: 24 Hours

Find out what to do if you just have one day to explore the quaint mountain town that the locals call Breck

Page 72 - National Parks

All of Colorado’s National Parks are West of 105. We share the best of winter in all four

Photo: (this page): Matt Power; (opposite page top right): Mount Princeton Hot Springs Resort; (opposite page left): Antero Hot Springs; (opposite page bottom right): Joyful Journey Hot Springs Spa

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SPEN is, in many ways, what people see in their minds when they think of Colorado: a mountain town that is draped in the gold of turning Aspen trees in autumn and snow-covered slopes in winter. A reputation as a playground for millionaires lingers, but Aspen is so much more than it appears to be.

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Photo: Jeremy Swanson / Aspen Snowmass

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Photos (opposite page top): Michael Moran/OTTO; (opposite page bottom): Jordan Curet (this page): Matt Hobbs

PAST AND PRESENT Aspen is, without doubt, a year-round destination. But in the minds of many, particularly the tens of thousands who visit to ski every winter, it is defined by its winter endeavors. But as hard as it might be to believe today, Aspen went through a boom-and-bust period before reemerging, after a few decades of dormancy, with a new look and feel. Hundreds of years ago, the Ute Indians “summered” in what would later become Aspen, but it wasn’t until gold was discovered in Colorado (and silver in Aspen) that people flocked to the area seeking their fortunes. The town that quickly sprung up swelled to around 16,000. Eventually and inevitably gold production slowed and eventually stopped and silver prices dropped (although large-scale silver mining in Aspen continued until 1917) as the Sherman Silver Purchase Act, which was put in place to increase the amount of silver the government was required to purchase, was repealed by Congress. Aspen began a period of rapid decline and was on the cusp of befalling the same fate as many other former mining towns that have long been deserted. It would be too simple to attribute Aspen’s renaissance to a single person, but if there is one person who is routinely credited with breathing life back into Aspen, it is Walter Paepcke, a Chicago industrialist who visited the 60

area in 1945 at the request of his wife Elizabeth who had herself visited in 1939 for a skiing trip with friends. Aspen was still far from being an established ski town, but Walter and Elizabeth Paepcke saw the town’s potential (and had the financial clout to do something about it). They eventually formed Aspen Skiing Corporation, which had already been initiated by a determined group of skiing enthusiasts, including veterans of the US Army’s 10th Mountain Division. Legendary in Colorado, the 10th Mountain Division was formed and stationed at Camp Hale (today called Ski Cooper) near Leadville when the United States entered World War II. They trained in the area before they were deployed to Italy. Upon their return many of them set about transforming the ski industry in the US. Aspen’s first chair lift, the longest in the world at the time, was installed in December 1946 on Aspen Mountain and more and more people began to arrive as skiing became increasingly popular, particularly as the middle class found themselves with more money to spend on luxuries. Skiing became so popular in fact that in 1958 Buttermilk and Aspen Highlands opened up for business. While the first organized skiing at Snowmass started that same year, the official opening followed much later in 1967. WESTOF105.COM

While Aspen was on the path to long-term prosperity, Paepcke also saw Aspen as the perfect place for thinkers, leaders, artists and musicians from all over the world to gather and exchange ideas. He envisioned the mountain town as a summertime cultural hub. In 1949, Paepcke invited more than 2,000 people, among them noted intellectuals and artists, for a celebration of the 200th birthday of German poet and philosopher Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. That year, Paepcke created what is now the Aspen Institute and with his wife began planning a campus that to this day is perhaps simultaneously the most interesting thing about Aspen and one of its lesser know elements (read more about the Aspen Institute on page 112). Modern Aspen was taking shape, and Paepcke seemed to have a hand in all of it, including Hotel Jerome and the Wheeler Opera House reopening, both of which are two of Aspen’s most notable and beautiful buildings to this day. Aspen continues to grow, but it was this blueprint, laid down seven decades before and masterminded by the Paepckes, that has served as the frame that has been continually built upon to make Aspen the place it is today.


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SEE AND DO Aspen the town shouldn’t be confused with Aspen Skiing Company or the four ski resorts it operates. They are inextricably linked, but they are certainly not one and the same. The latter may well be the overriding reason for the town’s resurrection and continued success, but there is more to Aspen than skiing. If, however, skiing, snowboarding and winter sports are your primary reason for visiting, you can read all about what Aspen offers in our round up of the state’s ski resorts on pages 22-35. NORDIC SKIING, UPHILL SKIING & ICE SKATING Away from the groomed trails and the après affairs, there are other winter pursuits available in the area including cross-country skiing and snowshoeing on the Aspen Snowmass Nordic Ski Trail System which is one of largest free trail systems in the country (more details on page 36). There are also a few places to ice skate in town including at the Aspen Recreation Center and Aspen’s only outdoor rink at CP Burger on East Durant Avenue. There are also fat tire bikes available for rent. Aspen is also a good place to try the relatively new trend of uphill skiing. Skinning, as it is sometimes known, is all about earning your turns: ski uphill and then turn around and ski back down. In Aspen (that’s all four mountains) uphill skiing is free where it is allowed, but you will need a permit. Every December, Aspen hosts Summit for Life, a nighttime uphill race and fund-raiser for the Chris Klug Foundation.

If you’re looking for something to do that gets you out of the frigid temperatures, but before you indulge in an après-ski aperitif, Aspen has other attractions, particularly for lovers of art and culture. ASPEN ART MUSEUM A non-collecting institution with free entrance, Aspen Art Museum is a regional cultural center that brings programs and exhibitions to Aspen from around the world. The current location, on the corner of Spring Street and Hyman Avenue in the heart of town, was deemed necessary thanks to consistent increases in visitor numbers. Designed by Shigeru Ban, the building is based on transparency and open view planes: inviting those outside to engage with the building’s interior and providing those inside the opportunity to see their exterior surroundings. Among the current exhibitions is “Elmgreen & Dragset: It’s Never Too Late to Say Sorry.” Running until

May 19, 2019, it consists of a display case containing a polished aluminum megaphone on a granite pedestal. Every day at noon, a man will appear at the case, open the door, take out the megaphone and shout: “It’s never too late to say sorry.” It is said to be a reminder of the power of language, gesture and action. ASPEN ACADEMY SCREENINGS Returning for its 27th year is Aspen Academy Screenings, a film series that screens acclaimed films actively campaigning for Oscar consideration. Originally an intimate and exclusive industry-only event, it has grown into an Aspen tradition. Presented by Aspen Film, the series takes place between Dec. 26-30 at both the Wheeler Opera House and the Paepcke Auditorium. The 15-film showcase will open on Wednesday, Dec. 26 with “Amazing Grace,” a documentary about Aretha Franklin directed by Sydney Pollack and “Vice” directed by Adam McKay and starring Christian Bale as former Vice President Dick Cheney. 100 YEARS OF BAUHAUS Aspen is also celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Bauhaus movement with a range of events throughout 2019. Read more about Aspen’s connection to Bauhaus and what the town has planned on page 112.

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property creates its own version. Read more about Aspen’s Downhill Snapper on page 15. Ajax Tavern inside The Little Nell is a great place for breakfast, lunch or dinner. It is also a great place to indulge in an après-ski drink or snack given it sits right next to the Silver Queen Gondola. Read about it in our Top 10 Après-Ski Spots on page 104. A good spot for coffee, breakfast or a relaxing lunch in beautiful surrounds, SO Café at the Aspen Art Museum is on the rooftop of the museum and offers amazing views of Aspen Mountain, a feature that alone makes it worth a visit. SO Café offers a lunch menu that changes weekly.

DINING & DRINKING It cannot be denied that ostentatious displays of wealth can be seen in Aspen, particularly during ski season. It has long been, and remains very much a place to be seen. However, where the well-heeled congregate so do the best and brightest of the culinary world. DINING The Chef’s Club at the St. Regis Aspen is perhaps the most unique option in town. The idea is relatively simple: a chef and his or her team will arrive at the St. Regis Aspen to give locals and visitors a taste of something new. From Dec. 15 – April 6, 2019, Chef Daniel Humm from New York’s Eleven Madison Park

(EMP) will bring his culinary chops to bear on Aspen. Humm and his team will bring a slightly more laid-back version of what you can expect in New York with a menu that takes inspiration from the surrounding countryside and Humm’s Swiss heritage.

Elsewhere, Element 47 at The Little Nell (a Forbes Five-Star restaurant) is well known for dinner, but a somewhat elevated breakfast buffet during ski season is a good place to fuel up before a day of activity.

In partnership with American Express, reservations between Dec. 15 to Jan. 31 are exclusively for American Express Card Members. Walk-in seating will be available on a first-come first-served basis.

Two other options that are highly rated and recommended are Bosq and Cache Cache, both of which were part of our “Fall Fine Dining” feature in issue one. Both also offer a bar menu which is a good option for those who want something quick or less formal but with the same exacting culinary standards.

The St. Regis Aspen also has a proprietary Bloody Mary. Perfected (not necessarily created) by the St. Regis in New York, each St. Regis

DRINKING At ski resorts in the winter it is called après, but in any other place and at any other time it is called day drinking.

Photos (this page top): St. Regis Hotels and Resorts; (this page bottom left): Michael Moran/OTTO; (this page bottom right): Scott Clark Photography ; (opposite page top): Aspen Tap / Aspen Brewing Company (opposite page middle): Shawn O’Connor; opposite page bottom: Aspen Meadows Resort


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WHERE TO STAY Aspen has a range, relatively speaking, of places to bed down for the night. The St. Regis Aspen, the Limelight Hotel and Hotel Jerome are among the better known. And then there is The Little Nell, the only ski-in, ski-out, five-star, fivediamond hotel in Aspen. THE LITTLE NELL Owned and operated by Aspen Skiing Company, The Little Nell is welcoming with professional but not overly-formal staff. Located at the base of Aspen Mountain, the fireplace that serves both the lobby and the Living Room, a lounge area off Element 47, is very welcoming. Guest rooms and junior suites underwent a renovation in 2017 which has left the hotel with very tasteful and comfortable rooms that are predominantly white with furniture

in shades of gray and splashes of color from the art and other personal touches. ASPEN MEADOWS If you’re looking for something super cool and relatively unknown, there is Aspen Meadows. Designed by Bauhaus master Herbert Bayer, Aspen Meadows is on the 40-acre campus of the Aspen Institute (which also operates the hotel). A work of art, quite literally, the campus is just one mile from downtown Aspen but is somewhat secluded and feels as if it is much further away. Rooms ooze Bauhaus style and while they may feel a little stark to some, lovers of culture and art will adore them. The resort is competitively priced compared to others in town and there are shuttles to and from downtown.

So whether you call it a libation or a brewski and whether you drink it out of a hand-blown Zalto wine glass or off a ski, Aspen has everything from a pint of hoppy nectar to Champagne on the mountaintop. Aspen Brewing Company, Aspen’s only craft brewery, has a taproom on the corner of South Galena Street and East Hopkins Avenue. Along with traditional pub food, cocktails and wine, they serve some very fine Colorado beer. Try the Ajax pilsner or the Cloud 9 saison. For wine lovers, Aspen is quite possibly one of the best places in the country if you like variety. Cache Cache and The Little Nell (available in Element 47 and Ajax Tavern) have wine lists that are as diverse as they are extensive (November’s count put The Little Nell’s cellar at an impressive 21,530 bottles). Both work with several Colorado producers including Sutcliffe Vineyards, Jack Rabbit Hill Farms, Monkshood Cellars and Buckle Family Wines. For those who simply can’t wait to get off the slopes to start enjoying themselves, there is Chair 9 on Aspen Mountain. With just eight chairlifts on Aspen Mountain, Chair 9 was named to evoke the 19th hole in golf. It opens just as the lifts are closing. Belly Up Aspen is somewhat of an institution and features live music from both big names and local talent. 63


DAY TRIPS

ASPEN OFFERS ENOUGH ACTIVITIES TO KEEP A N Y O N E B U S Y F O R W E E K S , B U T I F Y O U WA N T TO EXPLORE THE AREA, WE RECOMMEND V E N T U R I N G T O T H E S E N E A R B Y D E S T I N AT I O N S

SNOWMASS

BASALT

Located just a short drive up Highway 82, the main draw of Snowmass is the skiing. Owned by the same company as Aspen Mountain, Buttermilk and Aspen Highlands, Snowmass has over 3,000 skiable acres. Snowmass is a great option for all levels with plenty of terrain for beginners. It is welcoming a big expansion this year with the opening of its new base village. Phase one of the project, which will add lodging, residences and amenities to the resort over the next 10 years, will be completed this winter.

A quaint community 30-minutes northwest of Aspen, Basalt is laid-back and full of charm. While the historic downtown is small, it’s full of great restaurants and cultural offerings. If you only have a few hours to spend in Basalt, start with a self-guided history tour (around 45 minutes; information available online at basaltchamber.org). Follow that by browsing the works on display at Ann Korologos Gallery and The Art Base.

Apart from skiing, there are plenty of dining and shopping options in the village. There is also Anderson Ranch Arts Center. Made up of 14 ranch buildings on five acres, the center is a year-round destination and looks absolutely stunning when blanketed in snow and decorated with lights.

If you’re looking to dine in Basalt, try Free Range Kitchen and Wine Bar where seasonal​comfort food is on offer in a very nice historic building right downtown. The food menu is complemented by a robust wine list along with cocktails and craft beers. For additional drinks, Woody Creek Distillers is not to be missed. They have a tasting room and offers tours.

SPRING

SUMMER

AUTUMN

Don’t miss: Aspen Film Shortsfest - A showcase of short form comedy, drama, documentary and animation | April 2 -7, 2019

Don’t miss: The Aspen Food and Wine Classic - A culinary event featuring food and wine from around the globe | June 14 - 16, 2019

Don’t miss: Golden Leaf Half Marathon - One of the most beautiful, but challenging races in the Rockies | Sept. 28, 2019

While the skiing doesn’t wrap up until mid to late April, receding snow means warmer-weather sport enthusiasts are out and about. The cycling community is one of them, and a favorite ride that roadies always look to usher in the riding season with is a ride up Independence Pass. Before the pass opens up to cars (it is only accessible seasonally), cyclists are able to spin to the top during The Ride for the Pass race. The ride depends on the weather, but it usually happens mid to late May. Spring also brings with it plenty of warm, sunny days which are great for exploring Aspen’s lower elevation hiking and biking trails. And of course when the snow flies, there is always more skiing!

Aspen may be a mecca for winter sports, but summer is no slouch when it comes to seasonal activities. From hiking, biking and camping there are plenty of recreational offerings in the area. The whole Roaring Fork Valley is lined with trails that are peppered with wildflowers in the summer (try Cathedral Lake trail). Ballooning and paragliding are also great activities that will give you a bird’s eye view of the valley and surrounding mountains. The Snowmass Bike Park offers world-class mountain biking, and for those wanting to sleep under the stars there are dozens of campsites around the area. If you would prefer a guided tour, Aspen Snowmass offers professional outfitters that will show you the ropes on an overnight experience.

Autumn in Aspen is one of the most picturesque times of year and while it’s hard to compete with a mountain blanketed in sparkling white, pristine powder, the yellows, golds and oranges that dot the landscape in autumn are equally breathtaking. One particularly photoworthy spot for this season is Maroon Bells. Said to be the most photographed location in the country, its popularity means that it won’t be the most serene of places this time of year, however the stunning views more than make up for it. Another worthwhile activity while in Aspen during peak autumn foliage is to drive up Independence Pass. And of course, the sunny and dry days of autumn are perfect for hiking, biking and horseback riding the area’s numerous trails.

Photo: Christopher Lee

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Photo: Vail Resorts / Andrew Maguire_

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24 Hours IN

BRECKENRIDGE Sitting at the base of the Tenmile Range, Breckenridge, like so many other ski towns West of 105, is the perfect storm of modern mountain living combined with a rich history and an unbelievable wealth of outdoor activities. A true year-round destination, Breck really comes to life in winter thanks to world-class skiing and snowboarding, incredible backcountry as well as all kinds of festivals and celebrations. There are also plenty of great places to eat, drink and stay, so read on to plan your 24 hours in Breckenridge.

WINTER EDITION

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7:30 am SEIZE THE DAY Although the name might evoke a British pub, the Crown is actually a coffee shop. Those on vacation may want to consider the Breckenridge Coffee (hazelnut and coffee liquor with Baileys and coffee) as a way to kick start your day. Those who need a jolt of sugar in the morning will find it here, if not with the Breckenridge, with the Crown Mocha (a white chocolate, caramel and chocolate latte) or the Cubano (espresso with sugar and cinnamon and topped with whipped cream). They have plenty of food options, too. Open every day from 7:30 am to 8 pm, the Crown is at the base of Four O’Clock trail, and since it has a bar you could pop in for a beer or a glass of wine in the afternoon. If you want to get an early start, phone in your order and pick it up en route to wherever you’re headed for the day.

Photos (left): Kristofer Noel / Telluride Ski Resort; (right): Matthew Inden / Miles

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8 am

EXPLORE BRECK’S WINTER WONDERLAND Spend the next few hours exploring the mountain at your own pace. For some, that will mean hurtling down double blacks, skinning or cross-country skiing and for others it will not involve being exposed to the elements at all. For fairly competent and adventurous skiers and snowboarders, the Breck Guides Explore program (one of a series of programs) is a four-hour sojourn around the mountain that helps you fine tune your skills with a series of hidden trails, steep chutes and the best powder. For something slower paced, the Gold Run Nordic Center (open at 9 am) offers Nordic skiing, snowshoeing and fat tire biking. The center has over 18 miles of groomed classic and skate cross-country ski trails and eight miles of snowshoe trails. There are also some dog-friendly trails, too. The center also offers sleigh rides, skiing lessons and daily guided snowshoe tours if you’d rather take it easy in the morning. (If you really want to take it easy, see below for our recommendation for a self-guided art tour). The center has all kinds of gear for rent, too. Another winter activity that will help you build up your appetite is indoor and outdoor ice skating at the Stephen C. West Ice Arena. Check the website for an up-to-date public skating schedule.

Want something a little stronger? Head to Breckenridge Distillery, the world’s highest, to sample some award-winning spirits. Both Broken Compass and Breckenridge Distillery have free shuttle buses that pick up and drop off around Breck. You can call to schedule a ride on the Lost Bus from Broken Compass and the driver may even be able to pick you up and drop you off from locations a little bit beyond the normal route for a small fee.

2 pm BRECK CREATES The Breckenridge Arts District, one of the state’s Certified Districts in the Colorado Creative Industries Creative District Program, is a hub for all kinds of creativity. Bringing together artists from all kinds of backgrounds as well as historic landmarks, public art, restaurants, cafes and other creative businesses, the district’s core attraction is a lively campus of renovated historic buildings that are home to studio spaces for all manner of exhibits and workshops, many of which are free. Tours of the arts district and self-guided audio tours of the public art around Breck are available. Pick up a free map for the public art tour at the Old Masonic Hall or the Welcome Center. Visit spts.us/bca for the audio tour and follow one or more of the three mapped out routes. Stop by Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory or Clint’s Bakery and Coffee House for a cup of something to heat you up afterwards.

12 pm APRÈS TIME When it is time for a deserved drink after a morning of exertion, Broken Compass Brewery is good choice for a great Colorado beer (read about Broken Compass in our Elevated Breweries article on page 88). Although Broken Compass doesn’t have food, you can bring your own. Another good spot for a beer and something quick and filling is Downstairs at Eric’s. The sports bar and arcade has a menu of classic bar food, 30 beers on tap and the arcade makes it great for families with kids.

Photos (clockwise from top right): Breckenridge Tourism Office; Jessie Unruh; Broken Compass (opposite page, clockwise from top): Tomas Cohen / Vail Resorts; Andrew Maquire / Vail Resorts; The Crown


4 pm GET HAPPY AT AURUM A recent addition to Breckenridge, this will be the first winter for the team behind the Steamboat Springs outlet of the same name. Expect upscale ingredients like truffle and diver-caught scallops sitting alongside burgers and salads. Visit their website for the most up-to-date menu. While great for dinner, Aurum’s happy hour is also very good. From 4 pm - 6 pm the restaurant offers half-priced snacks and wines by the glass, $3 draft beers and $7 ‘preserving the past’ cocktails.

4:45 pm/ 5:30 pm SLEIGH RIDE With your capillaries suitably dilated after a few happy hour drinks, a true winter experience awaits at Golden Horseshoe Tours. An early evening sleigh ride through the stunning, postcard-like backcountry around Breckenridge is a winter experience not to be missed. On a cherry-red sleigh pulled by two giant Belgian draft horses, you are drawn through the untouched snow of White River National Forest. The sleigh can accommodate up to 20, but if you’re lucky it might just be you.

7 pm

DINNER TIME

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Briar Rose Chophouse was built in 1960 but in keeping with the style of an 1800’s original, a place that was frequented by miners looking for a good meal and a few drinks. Particularly good for meat lovers, Briar Rose sources the best beef and game from Colorado and as far as New Zealand. Menu items include elk medallions, bone-in dry-aged buffalo rib eye and a sizable 40-ounce tomahawk rib eye. Briar Rose also has a full-time sommelier and a wine list with over 200 wines. Happy hour with 2-for-1 cocktails, bottled beer and house wine is offered every day.


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LIVE MUSIC End your night with a few more drinks and some live music at the Fox’s Den. Live music, which can be funk, jam bands or local cover bands, starts at 10:15 pm on Fridays and Saturdays, but with reasonably priced drinks as well as pool, darts, foosball, pinball and even Pac Man, the Fox’s Den is pretty busy most nights. It is open seven days a week.

11 pm GET SOME REST As for where to stay when you are in Breck, most of the usual ski town suspects are here including the “big box” big boys. For something a little more bespoke, Paragon Lodging is a property management company that works with property owners to offer visitors the chance to stay in some of the region’s most exclusive properties. With options that can accommodate between six and 30 guests, Paragon has a portfolio of 60 plus properties.

Beyond 24 Hours

EXPLORE THE BACKCOUNTRY Exploring the backcountry around Breck doesn’t have to stop when the sun goes down. A range of backcountry huts are scattered across the state, with Summit Huts offering several huts in the Breckenridge area. Huts in the system include: Francie’s Cabin, Janet’s Cabin, Ken’s Cabin, Section House Hut and Sisters Cabin, the newest cabin in the association that will open this winter. To read more about the hut system go to page 42.

Events SNOW SCULPTURE CHAMPIONSHIP Jan. 21–30, 2019 Snow artists from around the world compete to create massive 3-D works of art. Starting as 12-foot-tall, 20-ton blocks of snow and using only hand tools, artists achieve finished pieces across five days of sculpting.

ULLR FEST Jan. 9 - 12, 2019 Celebrating its 55th year this season, Ullr Fest draws around 12,000 people, some of who will try to break the world’s longest shot ski record, take an ice plunge and party at the Ullr Bonfire.

71 Photos: (this page top right and bottom, opposite page top): Breckenridge Tourism Office; (this page, above left) Breckenridge Tourism Office / Louie Traub; (opposite page, middle photos): Jameson Midgett Photo


F ND Y UR P RK

COLORADO HAS FOUR INCREDIBLE AND UNIQUE N AT I O N A L P A R K S W H I C H A L L H A P P E N T O B E W E S T O F 1 0 5 , A N D W I N T E R I S A G R E AT T I M E T O V I S I T T H E M . V I S I T O R N U M B E R S A R E N O T O N LY AT T H E I R L O W E S T , B U T D R A P E D I N S N O W, T H E P A R K S A R E B R E AT H TA K I N G . T H E R E A R E VA R I O U S P R O G R A M S THROUGHOUT THE SEASON AS WELL AS PLENTY OF OPPORTUNITIES FOR WINTER ACTIVITIES. AND BE SURE TO READ ABOUT SOME OF THE ANIMALS YOU MIGHT SEE IN THE PARKS THIS WINTER ON PAGE 128.

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Photo: NPS / Patrick Myers

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GREAT SAND DUNES NATIONAL PARK & PRESERVE

WINTER VISITORS*

Great Sand Dunes was established just 14 years ago in 2004 (although it was originally designated as a National Monument back in 1932), but one of the youngest parks in the system is also one of the most unique. Fully titled Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, the park has 30 square miles of rolling sand dunes including the highest in North America.

experience. If you really want to earn those turns, head for High Dune on the first ridge. A round-trip hike is around 2.5 miles, but if you have your board or skis the trip down will be much quicker. Star Dune, the tallest in the dune field at 755 feet, is a little further away. Rent a board or a sled or bring your own. Kristi Mountain Sports in Alamosa offers daily rentals.

The number of visitors to the park drops off with the temperature. December, January and February see less than 16,000 visitors in total. The dune field, while the undoubted star of the park, takes up around one-fifth of the total with the rest being made up of grasslands, wetlands, conifer and aspen forests, alpine lakes and six 13,000-foot mountains.

The park is also amazing at night. Although particularly cold during winter, a walk through the dunes, on both new moon and full moon nights, is an experience you are unlikely to have anywhere else in the country. Be sure to bring plenty of warm clothes and comfortable walking shoes.

In winter, the dunes may be blanketed in snow, turning an already surreal landscape into an otherworldly winter wonderland. Great year round for sledding and sand boarding, the snow on the dunes adds to the

For a real winter excursion, consider stopping off at Zapata Falls on your way to or from the park. Eleven miles outside of the park, Zapata Falls freezes into a 25foot obelisk. Be sure to take appropriate footwear for the ice. Crampons that slip on over your shoes are a good option.

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December: 6,409 January: 3,586 February: 5,614

WINTER HIGHLIGHTS

Sledding and sand boarding down snowcovered dunes

CAMPING

PiĂąon Flats Campground inside the park closes at the end of October, but camping is permitted in the dune field. There is a limit of 20 parties in the dune field per night; permits are free and are issued on a first-comefirst-served basis.

MORE INFO nps.gov/grsa

*All data is based on 2017/2018 figures

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ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK

Rocky Mountain National Park is the fourth most visited national park in the country; 2017 saw 4.5 million visitors. It is also the biggest of Colorado’s four national parks and offers all kinds of opportunities for winter fun. Established in 1915 with the Rocky Mountain National Park Act, the park was designated as one of the first World Biosphere Reserves by UNESCO in 1976 - a designation that demonstrates a balanced relationship between people and nature. The vast majority of its visitors come during the summer and early autumn with numbers dropping significantly to just over 110,000 visitors by December. Visitor numbers continue to fall until they pick up again in spring. Winter at Rocky Mountain is amazing. Aside from the sheer beauty all around, there are plenty of opportunities for recreation. Most of the park’s 355 miles of hiking trails can be explored with snowshoes (the 1.6-mile Gem Lake trail is a favorite) and RMNP offers free ranger-led programs on both sides of the

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park from January through March. There are also winter ecology walks, full moon walks and several other programs throughout winter. Rocky Mountain is also great for crosscountry skiing. Terrain and deeper snows on the west side of the park make for better cross-country skiing, but you are welcome to strap on your skis throughout the park. Sledding is allowed at Hidden Valley. Other activities in the park include wildlife watching. Winter is an especially good time to look for elk, mule deer, moose and other large mammals (see our guide on page 128). Don’t fee like walking? Snowmobile tour operators work out of nearby Winter Park. Rocky Mountain National Park allows snowmobiling on a two-mile stretch of the North Supply Access Trail in the southwest corner of the park. This trail connects the town of Grand Lake to a system of Arapaho National Forest trails adjacent to the park. For something a little more organized, the Rocky Mountain Conservancy offers a Wintertime Wonders Bus Tour. Tours are led by a naturalist who will guide you through the park from the comfort of a bus.

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WINTER VISITORS* December: 112,890 January: 111,512 February: 84,295

WINTER HIGHLIGHTS

Too chilly? Take a tour through the park from the comfort of a heated bus

CAMPING

In the Park, Moraine Park campground is the only campground open all year. All 77 winter sites are first come first served. Park dump stations are closed.

MORE INFO nps.gov/romo

*All data is based on 2017/2018 figures

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Photo (opposite page): NPS / Crystal Brindle; (this page): NPS

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MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK

WINTER VISITORS*

Where else can you cross-country ski and snowshoe through a UNESCO World Heritage Site? Mesa Verde National Park was established in 1906 to preserve and interpret the archaeological heritage of the Ancestral Pueblo people who made it their home for over 700 years, from 600 to 1300 CE, and in winter the 52,485-acre park is even more magical. With visitor numbers so low in winter, you may not see anyone else if you decide to go cross-country skiing or snowshoeing. As soon as there is enough snow, trails will be groomed but be sure to check the status of them on the park’s hiking page or by calling before you head out. There are also miles of backcountry trails that are not regularly groomed; they provide more solitude but require more preparation and caution. Bare trees in the winter make it easier to spot wildlife. Be sure to fill out a wildlife sighting card if you see something rare.

(To read about what wildlife is around in winter in Colorado see page 128.) Unfortunately, guided tours of some of Mesa Verde’s notable sites are not offered in the winter. On Dec. 13 from 4 pm to 9 pm, the Luminaria Holiday Open House returns to Mesa Verde. The event is a real spectacle with thousands of lanterns placed around the park to illuminate the archaeological sites and roadways for the evening. Entry is free that day after 4 pm. The park is also a great place for stargazing. Minimal light pollution in the four-corners area allows for virtually unobstructed viewing of the night skies. On clear, moonless nights you can see the Milky Way. The locations recommended for stargazing in the park include Far View Lodge, Morefield Campground and Montezuma or Mancos Overlooks.

December: 11,898 January: 8,398 February: 7,475

WINTER HIGHLIGHTS

Luminaria Holiday Open House turns the park into a winter wonderland

WINTER TIPS

Tours are not offered in the winter months, so be prepared to explore the park on your own

CAMPING The campgrounds inside the park are closed between November and April. MORE INFO nps.gov/meve

*All data is based on 2017/2018 figures

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4

BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON NATIONAL PARK

WINTER VISITORS*

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is truly amazing, but it doesn’t get nearly the number of visitors of some other parks, and winter is the slowest time of year with around 15,000 people visiting between December and the end of February. Entrance is free throughout winter, but the East Portal access is closed.

Oak Flat Loop and Rim Rock Trail, with both offering great views of the canyon. Snowshoeing is encouraged in any part of the canyon’s rim, but going into the inner canyon is not recommended. For beginner trails you may consider snowshoeing next to the groomed Nordic skiing trails on South Rim Drive.

Redesignated from a national monument (first established in 1933) to a national park in 1999, the park extends from Curecanti National Recreation Area to Gunnison Gorge National Conservation Area and is just under 31,000 acres.

Various ranger-led events happen throughout winter including snowshoe hikes. Check the park website for full details.

Winter is a great time to visit the Black Canyon with enough snow usually arriving by mid-January to allow snowshoeing and crosscountry skiing. South Rim Drive is not plowed between the visitor center and Warner Point and is therefore closed to cars. However, that allows it to be used as a ski and snowshoeing trail. The six-mile road is groomed and gives access to the overlooks. If snow is plentiful, snowshoers have the opportunity to trek on the upper part of

If you dare (and several people do each winter), backcountry camping along the closed South Rim Drive is permitted beyond Pulpit Rock Overlook; a free wilderness permit is required. The North Rim (accessed via the north entrance near Paonia) is far less visited in winter so solitude is nearly guaranteed. Call the visitor center to get tips on the best way to explore this part of the park in winter. The Black Canyon is also an International Dark Sky Park and winter offers a great opportunity to stargaze as well.

Photos (this page): Rob McGovern / Period Comms; (opposite page): Ric Stovall / Vail Resorts

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December: 3,042 January: 7,600 February: 5,231

WINTER HIGHLIGHTS

Groomed Nordic ski trails and ranger-led snowshoeing tours

WINTER TIPS

The South Rim Visitor Center offers a limited number of free snowshoe rentals from 9 am - 4 pm

CAMPING

The South Rim campsite loop A allows generators, is open year round and is free in winter.

MORE INFO nps.gov/blca

*All data is based on 2017/2018 figures


DRINKING & DINING

Page 78 - Off Piste Dining

From skiing to sleigh rides - the journey is half the fun in our round up of unique dining offerings

Page 88 - Elevated Brewing

Towns here are often defined by their elevation so we round up the highest breweries in the state

Page 92 - Colorado Cheese Pair a local, artisanal cheese with a local wine, beer or spirit this winter

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OFF PISTE DINING S K I TOWN S CATE R TO EVERYO NE WHE N I T COMES TO EAT ING , BUT FO R S OM ETH IN G TRU LY MEMO RABLE H E AD AWAY FROM TH E LIG HTS O F TOWN AN D IN TO TH E MO UNTAINS

Photo: Trent Bona / Vail Resorts

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ULEY'S CABIN

CLOUD NINE

CRESTED BUTTE

ASPEN HIGHLANDS

Fine dining meets mountain adventure at Uley’s Cabin in Crested Butte where a five-course prix fixe dinner is served after a scenic sleighride up the mountain. Literally a cabin in the woods, Uley’s Cabin was built in memory of Uley Sheer, a miner, moonshiner and mountain man who lived in a quaint 6’ X 8’ foot. The cabin built in his name, however, is a little more spacious. It is warmed by a log fire and decorated to evoke what it might have been like when Uley lived in the area. A portrait of Uley graces

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the mantle above the crackling fire. The five-course meal, courtesy of Chef de Cuisine Charlie Brown, serves up familiar ingredients with a distinctively French accent, for example a ragout of wild mushrooms with truffle custard; braised Colorado beef, faro, roasted golden beet and a juniper gastrique; and honey chèvre ice cream with thyme walnut sable and macerated strawberry. The cabin is also open during the day as is the literal ice bar outside the cabin.

Cloud Nine Alpine Bistro has a very European feel which can be seen in the dishes it is somewhat know for, namely fondue, raclette and strudel. Remodeled for the 2015/16 season, the bistro has maintained its historic feel while at the same time making practical improvements. Open in winter and part of spring, Cloud Nine offers both lunch and dinner seatings; dinner is typically a more elegant and intimate affair (seating is limited to forty for plated meals and is not recommended for children).

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A single seating for dinner adds a touch of exclusivity, while a 15-minute, open-air snowcat ride to and from the restaurant adds a fun element. Enjoy a warm glass of glühwein before you board the snowcat. Dinner is four courses including mushroom and black truffle strudel, Yarmony Ranch wagyu strip with variations of cauliflower and chocolate hazelnut cake. A sizable wine list is available. Snowcat dinners are offered Wednesday and Thursday evenings until April 4.

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Photos (this page): Aspen Snowmass; (opposite page): Xavier Fane

MAGIC MEADOWS CRESTED BUTTE Magic Meadows Yurt is essentially a winter pop-up restaurant. Hosting just 20 dinners this winter (most Saturdays throughout the season as well as a few additional dinners over Christmas and New Year), each dinner can accommodate up to 40 guests. Chef Tim Egelhoff is wellknown in Crested Butte having worked around town at restaurants and as a private chef. Egelhoff has a tight focus on what he calls Colorado-inspired cuisine, a style that brings together classic European techniques with artisanal products and with attention to seasonality. This winter, the Magic Meadows Yurt experience will offer several main course options — beef tenderloin, Scottish salmon, roast quail

or skillet ratatouille — that will stay throughout the season with a changing selection of hors d’oeuvres, seasonal soups, salads and desserts. Sitting on Crested Butte Land Trust property in the middle of Nordic ski trails just outside Crested Butte, Magic Meadows has been a winter mainstay for about 10 years. Only in operation in winter, getting to the yurt requires a one-mile ski or snowshoe from the trailhead. Specialty cocktails from Crested Butte’s Montanya Distillery, various wines and beer from Elevation Beer Company await inside along with live music from local musicians. Eat, drink and be merry, but remember that you have a one-mile trek back to the trailhead!

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Photos (this page): Elliot Wilkinson-Ray / Aspen Snowmass; (opposite page): Austin Day / Vail Resorts

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LYNN BRITT CABIN SNOWMASS Located high up on Snowmass Mountain, Lynn Britt Cabin has been described as having rustic elegance. Only open on Tuesdays through Thursdays during ski season, the restaurant is a relatively intimate space that can accommodate just 48 diners. Its rustic nature makes it suitable for everyone, with the Wednesday Chuckwagon dinners (a three-course dinner with hot cider and a warm fire as well as live entertainment) especially suitable for children. Dinners at Lynn Britt are of the snowcat variety, but with just one sitting per evening, reservations are recommended. As for what to expect on the menu, there is salmon pastrami with apple and fennel salad, hazelnuts and rye vinaigrette; cauliflower bisque; and pan-roasted Arctic char.

BEANO'S Cabin B E AV E R C R E E K Beano’s Cabin is an awardwinning restaurant in a meadow at the top of the slopes of Beaver Creek Resort in White River National Forest. Named for Frank “Beano” Bienkowski, the luxurious log cabin sits on land that was formerly home to Bienkowski’s lettuce patch and home. The ride to Beano’s Cabin, a 20-minute open-air sleigh

ride pulled by a snowcat, is a feast for the eyes with spectacular views of towering Grouse Mountain and Larkspur Bowl. A roaring fire welcomes and warms you before dinner. Snowcats leave every half hour which allows for flexibility in your evening. Headed by Executive Chef Kevin Erving, the fivecourse dinner is made up

of dishes such as ahi tuna poke; foie gras torchon; pan-seared Alamosa striped bass; and Colorado Lamb with green chile polenta, broccolini and chimichurri. The meal is almost as much for oenophiles as it is for foodies with a 19-page wine list (including almost two dozen by the glass). An open kitchen allows diners to become a little more immersed in the evening.

four points S T E A M B O AT S P R I N G S Four Points cabin is located on Storm Peak near the Four Points chairlift. Owned by Steamboat Resort, it opened in 1993, was upgraded in 2004 and 2005 and underwent a $5 million renovation in 2013. Often used as a wedding venue in the warmer months, in winter Four Points is open during the day with a menu that focuses on natural, healthy, made-toorder dishes that utilize local ingredients where possible. There is also an outdoor

barbecue with incredible views. At night, Four Points morphs into a somewhat more formal, fine-dining experience. Starting with a 15-minute snowcat ride from the gondola to the restaurant, a three-hour, five-course experience with a menu from Chef Adam Noha that takes inspiration from the flavors of Northern Italy follows. Expect hearty dishes like Tuscan bean sausage soup and braised Colorado lamb shank with roasted root vegetables and celeriac puree. 83


ZACH'S Cabin

ALPINO VINO

B E AV E R C R E E K

TELLURIDE

Perched on the mountainside high above Bachelor Gulch with magnificent views of the Gore Range, Zach’s Cabin will, once again, become an homage to Rocky Mountain fare as Executive Chef Ron Jackson returns to Zach’s Cabin this winter. Jackson is normally the executive chef at the historic Hotel Colorado in Glenwood Springs.

Artfully assembled, dishes you can expect to see from Jackson and his team this winter include a roasted root vegetable salad with local goat cheese, a carrot and lemon emulsion and quinoa; and cocoa nib-crusted elk loin with hen of the woods mushrooms, creamed greens and a mustard vinaigrette.

A 15-minute star-lit sleigh ride takes diners to Zach’s Cabin where they will indulge in a dinner that brings the best seasonal produce from the Colorado Rockies and elsewhere to the table.

Wines from the extensive Beaver Creek cellar, a cellar that has received the Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence for 10 years running, will also be available.

Only open during winter, Alpino Vino is North America’s highest elevation fine dining restaurant. The a la carte lunch menu and five-course dinner menu are composed of traditional dishes from the Italian Alps courtesy of Chef Nicola Peccedi’s upbringing in the Alpine ski village of Bormio, Italy. The menu is composed of handmade pasta dishes, soups, antipasti and other dishes from the region. Both lunch and dinner have a wine pairing option. Lunches are leisurely and require diners to ski in (a short run from the See

Photos (this page): Ric Stovall / Vail Resorts; (opposite page top): Dann Coffey; (opposite page bottom): Brent Clark / Vail Resorts

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Forever trail from the top of Telluride’s Gold Hill Express), while dinner guests travel via an enclosed snow coach. While there is an air of exclusivity about Alpino Vino, the restaurant itself has a rustic look with handhewn beams, furniture crafted from reclaimed wine barrels, stone floors and a wood burning fireplace that aims to capture the feel of the restaurants found throughout the Dolomites of Northern Italy. Outside, the heated deck offers great views of the Wilson Range and is a great place for a post-meal drink.


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GAME CREEK CLUB VA I L

Located in Vail’s scenic Game Creek Bowl in the back bowls of Vail Mountain, Game Creek Club is normally for members only, but it opens its particularly luxurious doors to the public for dinner. Only accessible by snowcat in winter, the European chalet-style restaurant offers four-course and chef’s table prix fixe menus including dishes such as

agnolotti with chestnut, black truffle, mushrooms and cured egg yolk; bison tartare with Manchego; black cod with duck confit fingerlings; and wild boar shank with gnocchi, sage, asparagus, Brussels sprouts and brown butter. With an award-winning wine list and a commitment to customer service, Game Creek Club is a good option for a meal in the mountains.

ragnar's tenmile station

S T E A M B O AT SPRINGS

BRECKENRIDGE

The first gourmet restaurant to open on Mount Werner in Steamboat Springs, Ragner’s is named for Ragnar Omtvedt, a Norwegian who set a world record of 192.5 feet in 1916 on a new ski jump (later to be named Howelsen Hill).

Taking place once a month during winter, TenMile Twilight Dinner Tours take diners on a moonlit adventure that culminates with a buffet meal at TenMile Station. Guests will need to uphill ski or snowshoe from

Peak 9 before sitting down to their meal. The barbecue buffet consists of salad, sides (pork and beans, corn on the cob, potato salad and coleslaw) and house-smoked meats (ribs, pulled pork, beef brisket and chicken).

Finish on a sweet note with an assortment of pies. After dinner, guests will have the trail to themselves on the way down. TenMile Twilight Dinner Tours are scheduled this season on Dec. 22, Jan. 18, Feb. 20 and March 18.

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Located in Rendezvous Lodge, Ragnar’s can accommodate 90 guests and offers a lunch menu with Scandinavian elements in a nod towards the Norwegian culture that played a pivotal role in making Steamboat a skiing destination in the early 1900’s. Expect pastas dishes, seafood, game and beef. In the evenings, Ragner’s offers a variation of what would appear to be a ski town staple. A gondola takes diners to a snowcat-drawn sleigh that meanders under what are typically cloudless and starry skies to the restaurant. Dinner is made up of five courses that have the same Scandinavian influence. Dishes you can expect include a literal smorgasbord platter and storfekjott, a coffee-marinated petite filet served with a potato rosti, asparagus, smoked tomato coulis, béarnaise and chive oil.


PINE CREEK COOKHOUSE ASPEN Established in 1971 as part of Ashcroft Ski Touring, a Nordic center in the ghost town of Ashcroft 12 miles above Aspen in the upper reaches of spectacular Castle Creek Valley, Pine Creek Cookhouse serves American Alpine Cuisine with a focus on local and seasonal ingredients. Headed up by Chef Chris Keating, a longtime Aspen resident who is well known in the city thanks to time spent working at The Little Nell and as culinary director at Hotel Jerome, dishes you can expect to see on the menu include wild game, local beef, line-caught salmon and Photos: Johnny Wilcox

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house-smoked trout, among other things. In winter the only way to the restaurant is to ski, snowshoe or take a sleigh ride drawn by Percheron horses. Pine Creek is open for lunch and dinner daily from 11:30 am – 2:30 pm for lunch and at 6:30 pm for the single, prix fixe, four-course dinner sitting. A trip to Pine Creek Cookhouse can be combined with an overnight hut trip. The 10th Mountain Division Hut System has huts nearby. Read more about them on page 42.


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ELEVATED BREWING

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I F T H E R E A R E T WO T H I N G S P E O P L E I N C O LO R A D O LOV E , I T ’ S C R A F T B E E R A N D TA L K I N G A B O U T E L E VAT I O N . S O W E ’ V E R O U N D E D U P S O M E O F T H E H I G H E ST I N D E P E N D E N T C R A F T B R E W E R I E S I N T H E STAT E

PERIODIC BREWING | LEADVILLE 10,157 feet

Top of the list and practically on top of the state, Periodic Brewing was founded in the fall of 2014 and opened its doors on November 2015. Periodic has grown rapidly and plans are already in place for expansion. As for the beers, sales in Leadville are dominated by Hope Pass, their flagship IPA. The most sought after beer in Leadville and their Northglenn taproom is their tripel which so far has only been brewed in very small batches. Brews that beer lovers can expect in the near future include the first release of a coffee milk stout; the second release of the Belgian Strong Dark; the aforementioned and sought after tripel; a second run of their chocolate porter; a Sierra Nevada Resilience IPA clone with proceeds going to Camp Fire relief efforts; and three barrelaged versions of their beers: Night Run Russian Imperial Stout, Tourmaline Black Ale and Sugarloaf Amber - Tequila Chili Amber. For winter, give the Night Run Russian Imperial a try. Dark, rich and chocolaty, it is strong (at 10 percent) but smooth.

SOUTH PARK BREWING | FAIRPLAY 9,852 feet

Paul Kemp and Megan Sebastian opened South Park Brewing in September 2014 after five years of working on the perfect business plan and finding a suitable location. The 5,200-squarefoot space is divided between the taproom and restaurant and the brewing operation. They also have a small distillery operation in the taproom that currently produces vodka. They brew several styles of beer, with the Ranch Hand ale, Cherry Blonde ale and Mad Juicy IPA being the three best sellers. They also have an Imperial S’mores Stout. Their winter ale, an Imperial Ginger Stout aged in rum barrels from Montanya Distillers in Crested Butte, was released Dec. 1 and a Raspberry Cream Stout should be available in late January. As for what to drink in the depths of winter, Paul recommends the Buffalo Peaks Brown, a malty British-style brown with roasted coffee and hazelnut notes.

BROKEN COMPASS BREWING CO. | BRECKENRIDGE 9,390 feet

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GOLDEN BLOCK BREWERY | SILVERTON 9,308 feet

When Silverton was in its heyday all of the town’s wealthier merchants were concentrated in one area. That area became known as the Golden Block. Today, Golden Block brewery stands on that block. Floyd and Molly Barela opened Golden Block just over three years ago. Floyd was a home brewer for two decades and Molly ran a jewelry store on the site where the brewery now is. Molly suggested they sell the store and open a brewery and the rest is history. Their Kathouse Kolsch is probably their most popular brew. Crisp and light with a hint of blackberry, it is served with a fresh blackberry in the glass, while according to Molly, their most interesting beer is the Madame Brown, an Englishstyle ale with a hint of hazelnut and maple. As for winter warmers, the Whoop Arse, a big Scottish ale with a malty body and a hint of brown sugar, is what to opt for. Floyd is currently working on a strawberry lemonade kettle sour which should be ready sometime in February.

AVALANCHE BREWING COMPANY | SILVERTON 9,295 feet

Avalanche Brewing has been brewing beer in the San Juan Mountains since 2011. Having undergone a few renovations over the last seven years, Avalanche now serves six of their beers as well as a menu of pizzas made to order, salads and wraps. As for beers, Avalanche’s Sultan IPA is a good place to start. Brewed to evoke the aromas that pervade the air around hop farms, this IPA uses six different hop varieties — citra, mosaic, super galena, chinook, crystal and meridian — to create a complex hop flavor that is balanced yet powerful. For something lighter on hops and alcohol, the Treasure Mountain Pale Ale features late aroma hop additions and a crisp malt background resulting in a dry pale ale with a creamy mouth feel. Avalanche also has a Baltic Porter. The 8.2 percent Shackteaux Reserve Baltic Porter has a hefty grain bill that is tempered by 90 pounds of cherries. It also contains vanilla beans and is aged in oak.

PARADOX BEER CO. | DIVIDE 9,163 feet

Established in February 2012, Paradox Beer Company produces Broken Compass is proud of the community vibe they’ve cultivated beers that honor the uncertainty of nature, and as such they at their Breckenridge brewpub. Their beer is pretty good too. It is harvest, propagate and inoculate their beers with their own probably a combination of these two things that has led to Broken house-grown yeast. Experimentation is central to the Paradox Compass being one of Yelp’s top 10 breweries in the country for philosophy which is perhaps why they don’t have what you would the last three years and, at the time of writing, the top brewery in call flagship beers. In fact, Paradox never duplicates a release, Colorado. As for the beer, the Coconut Porter (the brainchild of but they do occasionally revisit concepts. As for interesting brew master Jason Ford’s wife Jo) has been a well-loved brew at brews, they use a shallow, open cooling vessel to make a variety Broken Compass since it was first brewed, medaling at the Great of beers. Some are fully spontaneous, where yeast and bacteria American Beer Fest in 2015, which, the team say, only increased naturally inoculate the open vessel as the wort cools, while its popularity. As for what to expect this winter, Broken Compass others are inoculated by the addition of organic fruits and plants. is bringing back one of its original six beers, a hoppy brown ale These beers take much longer to make, sometimes years, and called the Fabulously Delicious Finely Hopped Brown (or FDFH exhibit complexity from both fermentation and the long-term Brown for short), for the first time in almost two years. They will aging. Paradox have at least three new canned releases that also be releasing a black IPA as well as several collaboration beers are either out or will be out soon from their mixed fermentation over the next few months, too. For an apres-winter-activity beer, series. To warm yourself up during winter, Paradox has the the Imperial Bourbon Barrel Aged Brown is the direction to go. Big Bonafide Series. Based on popular cocktails like the Old and bold, with rich, complex flavors stemming from a hefty grain bill Fashioned, Blood & Sand and the Maple Manhattan, they are only and up to a year aging in Breckenridge Distillery bourbon barrels, available at the brewery, so pop in and try one while sitting next to it clocks in at a whopping 12.5 percent which gives it a warm the outdoor fire. full-bodied finish. WESTOF105.COM

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Photos: (in order from 1 -6): Periodic Brewing; South Park Brewing; Broken Compass; Bec Basgal; Avalanche Brewery via Yelp; Focus on the Beer

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HIGHSIDE BREWING | FRISCO 9,039 feet

At just six months old, Highside Brewing is still a brewery baby. Started by a group of passionate industry professionals and Summit County locals who wanted to create excellent craft beer, Highside is named for the term given to throwing your body weight on to the high side of a raft to prevent it from flipping. The group is passionate about the outdoors, and if the mountains have taught them one thing, it is how to appreciate a great beer at the end of a rapid, a hike or a ski run. In the six short months they have been turning out beer, their Dos Mas IPA and the Fellin’ Hazy IPA have proven popular. Their pilsner and Vienna lager are close behind. As for interesting beers, they have two barrel-aged beers: a saison aged in a peach brandy barrel from Breckenridge Distillery and a farmhouse aged in a peach bourbon liquor barrel. Expect more collaborations with Breckenridge Distillery in the future. Following on from the recent release of their Berliner weisse, Highside is planning to release their take on an imperial stout soon. On a cold day, try their Baltic Porter.

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IRWIN BREWING | CRESTED BUTTE 8,921 feet

Turning two years old in January 2019, Irwin Brewing is so new that they don’t have a taproom at the brewery although they do sell and fill growlers (Friday – Saturday 3 pm - 6 pm). Currently distributing between Aspen and Telluride (and all points in between), David Nornes moved back to Crested Butte after 10 years away to help get the brewery built and running. Currently brewing 10 beers, including a session IPA, an IPA and a double IPA, Nornes hasn’t set anything in stone for future brews, but he is leaning towards something malty, perhaps a Scottish ale. A nod to perhaps the scope of what can be expected in the future lies in a recent collaboration with Jagged Mountain Brewery in Denver. The Common Ground was a spiced farmhouse saison using pink peppercorn, grains of paradise, cardamom and locally harvested fresh spruce tips. On particularly wintry days in Crested Butte, of which there are many, the oatmeal stout, a 6.1 percent full bodied, malty ale with creamy components, will hit the spot. For now, you can get one, hand pulled no less, from Public House, a local pub that has several Irwin brews on tap.

ELK AVE BREWING CO. | CRESTED BUTTE 8,917 feet

Established in 1996, The Eldo is home to the only on-site brewery in Crested Butte, namely Elk Avenue Brewing Company’s seven-barrel brewing system that is tucked away in the basement. Located in the heart of Crested Butte’s historic downtown district, Elk Avenue’s New England-style Notorious IPA has proven to be popular. The Tahitian Vanilla Coffee Porter is, they say, the most interesting beer they have on tap at the moment. In the next three months, the Snow Dance SMaSH Series will have two or three releases.

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DILLON DAM BREWERY | DILLON 8,891 feet

Dillon Dam Brewery celebrated its 21st birthday this year. The brewpub (the largest in the Colorado Rockies) can accommodate almost 300 people (235 indoors and another 60 outside on the patio). They currently have 18 beers on tap, all of which are brewed in house, and produce around 2,000 barrels per year. As for which of those beers is most popular, it is a tie between Sweet George’s Brown Ale and Here’s Your Dam IPA. As for most interesting brews, Dillon Dam brew a lot of seasonal beers, sometimes based on things the team learn at beer festivals and from other brewers. Beers you will be able to taste soon include the 8.2 percent Spruce Tip Double IPA, a piney and hoppy beer; the East Wall Amber, a British ale made with imported British malts and hops to give a toasty, fresh-baked biscuit flavor; and the 9.6 percent Belgian High Speed Quad, a deep, dark, rich and complex Belgian ale brewed with a specialty yeast that produces clove esters as well as notes of caramel, raisin, plum and figs. This, we are assured, is going to be a good one for the depths of winter.

HIDEAWAY PARK | WINTER PARK 8,793 feet

Owner Andy Brumenschenkel opened Hideaway in July 2014 with a desire to escape the city and the crowds. He was adamant he wanted to keep it small and at 160 square feet (the brewing space that is), it is fair to say he did just that. Four years later, and it is working out for Hideaway just fine. IPAs are popular here (and generally all over the state), and so a few years ago Hideaway started a Humulus Experimental IPA series. Some have had a brand new grain bill and hop recipe, others have been tweaked from previous recipes. They are about to release Humulus #21. One of Hideaway’s most anticipated brews of the year is their Cirque Stout. An imperial oak-aged vanilla stout, it is released every December. In addition, a new round of barrel-aged beers will also be released this winter. And according to Yelp, bigger isn’t always better as Hideaway is currently number 7 in Yelp’s top 10 Colorado breweries.

THE PEAK BISTRO & BREWERY | WINTER PARK 8,750 feet

Originally opened as Wild Creek in 2010, Sam and Joanne Adams bought the brewery in 2015 and rebranded it as The Peak Bistro and Brewery. The Peak currently has around seven regular beers, of which there are a few that are particular local favorites including the Arapaho Creek IPA, a West-coast style IPA that is brewed to give a slight hop bitterness followed by juicy hop aroma and flavor; the American Lilly, an American-style wheat beer infused with blueberry and pomegranate juices; and the Winter Park Ale, an American ale hopped with Cascade hops. Their cold brew coffee stout has been around for three years and is popular thanks to its rich flavor and low bitterness, while the Chocolate Cherry Stout, at 9 percent, will give you that warm feeling inside. Christmas will see the release of an imperial chocolate stout made with Mexican chocolate, and they are currently barrel aging several beers for release in March.

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Photos: (in order from 7 - 12); Highside Brewing; Irwin Brewing; Jamie W via Yelp; Dillon Dam Brewery; Hideaway Park Brewery; The Peak Bistro and Brewery;

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BLESSED AR CHEESEMAK C O L O R A D O H A S A G R E AT T R A D I T I O N OF ARTISAN CRAFTSMEN, INCLUDING A SMALL BUT ROBUST COLLECTION OF CHEESEMAKERS. WE SPOKE TO A FEW P R O D U C E R S A B O U T T H E I R WA R E S .

MOUCO CHEESE FORT COLLINS

Founded in 2001 by Germanborn Birgit Halbreiter and Robert Poland with the help of Halbreiter’s father, a master cheesemaker no less, MouCo (which is a portmanteau of mountains and Colorado but pronounced Moo-Co) produces a range of cow’s milk cheeses from traditional Camembert to smearripened and ash-cured cheeses.

CHEESES

Traditional Camembert A soft, creamy center surrounded by a nutty, bloomy rind. Good served with a preserve or fruit. Pair Photo: MouCo

with IPAs or beers with fruit notes. Rosés and mediumbodied red wines also work. ColoRouge A unique, creamy cheese with the savory and aromatic characteristics of a washedrind wheel. This one has the potential to get stinky. Pair with a saison, pilsner or even a sparkling wine. Ashley A soft-ripened wheel dusted cheese with edible vegetable ash that creates a silky, smooth and gooey cheese. Pair it with a nutty brown beer, a merlot or even a malbec.

Truffello A soft-ripened Camembert sprinkled with black truffles. Luxurious and decadent, Truffello is a creamy and earthy cheese. Pair it with mead, honey beer or sweeter wines. PepBert A Camembert that has citrus notes along with a hint of peppercorn which gives a little spice and heat. Pair it with an IPA, cabernet or pinot noir. MouCo is also working on a new cheese called Fetish, which is currently in the testing phase.

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RE THE KERS

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RECIPE IDEAS FONDUE

The classic ski town cheese preparation, the dish of melted cheese is served in a communal pot over a candle and eaten by dipping bread into the cheese using longstemmed forks. TRY

Any Monterey Jack variations or swiss for a more classic version

WELSH RAREBIT

Originally known as Welsh rabbit, this dish is a cheese sauce that is either poured over toasted bread or placed onto bread and grilled. Said to have originated at a time when meat was scarce in Wales, a good quality cheese on offer was the replacement. TRY

Jumping Good Goat’s Ruby Mountain

R AC L E T T E

The Swiss dish based on heating the raclette cheese and scraping the melted part on to bread is a time-honored tradition said to have been started by cow herders who would place the cheese next to a campfire to soften. TRY

Rocking W asiago

SOUFFLÉ

Created in 18th century France (from the French verb souffler which means to breathe), versions of this classic French egg dish can be made with any number of different cheeses. TRY

Sheep cheese from Fruition

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HAYSTACK LO N G M O N T

Founded by Jim Schott in 1989, Haystack Mountain (which was named after a landmark near his dairy) has gone from strength to strength. Currently producing a range of raw and pasteurized goat and cow cheeses, Haystack Mountain sources milk from local dairies as well as a goat dairy that is part of a program that allows inmates from a local prison to work on the farm. All of Haystack’s cheeses are free of additives and preservatives.

CHEESE

Boulder Chèvre With a citrus and grass flavor and a firm, creamy texture this cheese is ideal for crumbling on everything

from salads to pasta. Also available coated with herbs de Provence or cracked pepper as well as versions that are blended with roasted green chiles and dill and garlic. Pair with a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, a rosé, or even a lager. A Cheese Named Sue Raw goat milk cheese made with Oskar Blues Brewery’s G’Knight Imperial Red IPA. It is semi-firm with hop, barnyard and buttered toast notes. Probably pairs well with Oskar Blues Brewery’s G’Knight Imperial Red IPA. Camembert Made in the style of the classic cow’s milk cheese of Normandy, Camembert grows softer, creamier and

more earthy with age. A great cheese for baking. Pair with light red wines such as Beaujolais or American pale ales. Gold Hill Similar to their Queso de Mano (a natural rind Garrotxa style-cheese) but made with pasteurized goat milk and additional cultures to bring out a balanced buttery and tangy aroma. It is aged for six to twelve months to develop. Gold Hill won a first place award at the American Cheese Society contest and won a Super Gold at the 2017-18 World Cheese Awards in London where it was named the Best American Cheese. Pair with stronger red wines and IPAs.

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JUMPIN’ GOOD GOAT DAIRY

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B U E N A V I STA

Founded by Dawn Jump in 2002, Jumpin’ Good Goat Dairy moved to Buena Vista 10 years ago. The dairy has a store where guests can interact with the cheese-making process, try their hand at milking and take a farm tour.

Cheeses on offer include First Snow, a French-style goat cheese dusted with poplar ash; Ruby Mountain, a merlot-soaked cheddar that starts smooth and creamy but has a sharp bite that ultimately lingers on the palate; and Buena Vista Bleu, a creamy blue goat cheese.

FRUITION LARKSPUR

Founded by a chef that was in search of a high-quality sheep cheese, Fruition started making cheese in 2010. Armed with knowledge picked up at the Dairy Sheep Association of North America’s annual symposium, the small team has since worked hard to try to perfect five cheeses.

The five cheeses are sheepskyr, an Icelandic-style yogurt inspired cheese with a silky texture; ricotta, which has a large, fluffy soft curd; cacio pecora, a raw milk cheese with nutty, floral and grassy notes; shepherd’s halo, a creamy cheese with mild acidity; and the classic Greek cheese, feta.

ROCKIN W CHEESE O L AT H E

Rocking W makes their cheese using milk from their six generation familyrun dairy in Olathe. With nearly 30 kinds of cheese on offer, Rocking W is nothing if not prolific. Rocking W produces many standard cheeses including

baby Swiss, asiago and pepper jack, but they also produce a good number of interesting blends including a portobella leek jack, a cucumber and dill jack and their most recent creation, a smoked ghost pepper jack.

MOON HILL DAIRY

ST E A M B OAT S P R I N G S

Photos: (this page):

Photos: (this page top right photos): Jumpin’ Good Dairy; (bottom left, upper): Max Straeten

John Weibel started making cheese back in 2014. Starting out with ricotta, Moon Hill in Steamboat Springs now produces a good selection of cheeses including a brie-style cheese called Alpenbert; a soft-ripened exterior blue called River

Runs Blue; and Pas de Chevre, which is technically a fromage blanc but has the features of chevre. Hard cheeses include: Higby, a coffee milk stout-washed Tomme-style cheese; and Joe, a California-style dry jack rubbed in cayenne, coffee and cocoa. 95


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LIFESTYLE

Page 98 - Winter Fashion Our top apparel and accessory picks for her and him this season

Page 100 - Haven

Telluride’s Tempter House is one of the highest homes in the country. Get a peak inside

Page 104 - Top 10

Wondering where to enjoy an après-ski drink? We round up some of the state’s best

Page 108 - Beauty

The spa at Ritz-Carlton Beaver Creek is a good place to unwind after a day on the slopes Photo: Telluride Ski Resort / Kris Noel

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FASHION What we love: This lightweight jacket provides an impressive amount of warmth. It’s great for layering under shells for really chilly days and packs up nicely for traveling

FOR HER

Sweet Turns | Lexington Beanie $35

What we love: The fleece liner prevents itching and the beanie has a nice, snug fit

What we love: The subtle details of the material add a unique touch while the flattering cut and soft texture make it a great winter wardrobe staple

Cotopaxi Fuego Jacket $179 Krimson Klover Timberline $150

What we love: Hand crafted in Maine, these classic duck boots keep feet nice and dry. With the added layer of insulation, there is also an extra level of warmth

What we love: Incredibly soft and cozy, this wool-cashmere blend sweater features long sleeves, a high neck and is the perfect piece for an après-ski drink

Aether Luxe Sweater $325 What we love: Colors are brilliant and stunning thanks to the ChromaPop lens. The frames are nice and lightweight as well

Krimson Klover Chantal skirt $136

L.L.Bean 8’’ Boots with Thinsulate $155

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What we love: This winter-appropriate, soft skirt features a flattering faux-wrap and a fun, seasonal pattern

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Smith Lowdown 2 $169


FASHION FOR HIM What we love: Solar powered with a battery that lasts for a decade and a strap made from recycled plastic bottles - what’s not to like?

WEST OF 105 | LIFESTYLE What we love: Multiple pockets come in handy for stashing accessories and the hand warming pocket and the hearty insulation are great features, as is the droptail

What we love: This lumberjack-esque hat is perfect for chopping down your Chaos own Christmas tree Chola Aviator $29.99 or for the trek to your après-ski destination

One Eleven SWII Watch $125

What we love: The thermal lining is all but necessary for Colorado winters and the flannel helps you blend in with the crowd

Helly Hansen Urban Long Jacket $300 Dakota Grizzly Shayne Shirt $88

What we love: Superior grip, great support and added insulation means feet stay toasty on chilly winter days they’re waterproof too

What we love: This clam-shell style pack functions like a suitcase while the 35L style allows for extra space for stashing bulkier winter items for weekend getaways. It’s also carry-on approved

What we love: These comfy jeans are made in the USA and are at a very affordable price point the vintage wash looks great with everything Dearborn Denim 100% Cotton, Tailored Fit Jeans $69.96

Danner Mountain 600 $220

Cotopaxi Allpa Pack 35L $220 @WESTOF105 | #CrosstheMeridian

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HAVEN PERCHED ATOP A RIDGE AT 12,200 FEET IN ONE OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR SETTINGS IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, TELLURIDE SKI RESORT’S TEMPTER HOUSE IS ONE OF THE MOST UNIQUE AND HIGHEST ELEVATION HOMES IN NORTH AMERICA.

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PREAD out over five levels, Tempter House was originally built on an old mining claim overlooking Bear Creek Preserve and Telluride Ski & Golf Resort. Built over the course of four years starting in 1996, Tempter House is secluded to the point where you need a snowmobile to get to it in winter. Guests are escorted to the house by Telluride Ski Patrol who remain on hand throughout your stay. The house comes with all kinds of facilities you would expect from a luxurious mountain home including a steam shower, a jacuzzi tub and a pool table, but Tempter House is all about the location and the views. For those who don’t want to leave, and why would you, a personal chef can be requested to prepare breakfast, lunch and dinner. Alternatively, Allred’s, located at the top of St. Sophia gondola station, offers good food with unbeatable views. And of course the beautiful and historic town of Telluride isn’t far away. (For more information on dining options in Telluride read our “24 Hours in Telluride” article in issue one of West of 105.) Post-dinner, evenings can, and probably should, be spent sitting in front of the log fire or gazing out of the window, especially on nights when the full moon illuminates the snow-shrouded landscape. The morning after, skiers and snowboarders can access the slopes from the property.

Photos: (this page top): Kevin Pierce / Telluride Ski Resort (this page bottom and opposite page top): Telluride Ski Resort / Kris Photos (all): Gateway CanyonsTelluride Ski Resort 102 Noel; (opposite page bottom):

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TOP 10: APRÈS SPOTS CHECK OUT SOME OF OUR FAVORITE SPOTS FOR A WELL-DESERVED, POST-SKIING DRINK

Image: Don Riddle / Four Seasons Vail

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REMEDY

THE NEW SHERIDAN BAR Telluride

Located inside the Four Seasons, Remedy Bar offers an upscale but casual atmosphere for an après-ski experience. With amazing mountain views through the floor-to-ceiling windows, Remedy also has a spacious patio with fire pits that blaze year round. The cocktail menu draws inspiration from a 19th-century apothecary. The Medicine Cabinet, made with Weller ‘Remedy Barrel Select’ bourbon, maraschino, Pimm’s, green chartreuse and carpano antica, is a good example. Stop in Wednesday between 3 pm - 5 pm to order from the Après Whiskey Cart which provides table-side cocktail service.

Step back in time and get a dose of history with your après-ski libation at the Historic New Sheridan Bar. The oldest bar in town, it has a gorgeous carved mahogany bar and Telluride’s only commercial wood-burning fireplace, guaranteeing cozy confines to kick back and relax. The bar has rotating specials, pool tables and foosball along with occasional live music. If you’re in need of a pick me up, try the Flatliner, a combination of Stoli Vanilla Vodka, Baileys Irish Cream, Kahlua and a shot of espresso.

Vail

6TH ALLEY Arapahoe Basin

The hundreds of mugs that adorn the ceiling of 6th Alley at A-Basin belong to the select few that are members of the ‘Mug Club.’ For $45 you get your own personal mug which gets you one free beer to kick off the season and $1 off beers and bacon Bloody Marys all season long. While the mugs are likely sold out already (plan ahead for next year, they go on sale the morning of opening day), the bar is popular even if you aren’t part of the club. Only open during ski season, there is live music every Saturday.

BACHELORS LOUNGE Beaver Creek

J BAR Aspen

Cigar aficionados might want to check out Bachelors Lounge in The RitzCarlton, Bachelor Gulch. The only cigar lounge in the area, the adults-only lounge has a heated terrace that is open every day. A well-stocked humidor offers around 200 cigars; you can also bring your own for no cutting fee. The newly-launched happy hour from 5:30 pm - 7 pm offers specials on beer, wine and cocktails.

Located off the lobby of the Hotel Jerome, J Bar has long been a draw for people from all walks of life and has propped up some notable names including gonzo journalist and novelist Hunter S. Thompson (it’s said he used the bar as a make-shift office during his run for Pitkin County sheriff). As for what to drink, the bar offers craft beers, vintage-inspired cocktails and a range of wines as well as the well-known Aspen Crud.

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ALLRED’S Telluride

Located just off St. Sophia Gondola Station, Allred’s is an upscale restaurant that offers stunning views of the surrounding San Juan Mountains. Sitting pretty at 10,535 feet, Allred’s is a great option for dinner, but for something a little easier on the wallet, visit for an après-ski drink or snack. The views from both the restaurant and bar are some of the most stunning around, so try to arrive before the sun sets. The bar opens daily at 3 pm during ski season and because it is ski-in ski-out, trendy ski attire is de rigueur.

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ULEY’S ICE BAR Crested Butte Uley’s Ice Bar, which, as the name implies, is made out of ice, is located at the base of Twister Lift in Crested Butte. The namesake of the bar and restaurant is Uley Sheer, a past resident and bootlegger in the area. Sheer made a living illegally selling his homemade tipples until the Gunnison County jail was in need of a cook. Known for his cooking skills, Sheer was arrested for his unlawful pursuits and brought to the jail to become the cook.

7 8 9 1 HECK’S TAVERN Tabernash

Don your best skiwear and head to the upscale Heck’s Tavern. Located at the luxurious Devil’s Thumb Ranch, the menu offers comfort dishes including a wagyu chicken-fried steak and chicken and dumplings. There is also a range of cocktails, wines and beers on offer, so grab a drink and get cozy next to the roaring fire to defrost after a day on the slopes.

AJAX TAVERN

APRÈS HANDCRAFTED LIBATIONS Breckenridge

Aspen

There is no shortage of places to see and be seen in Aspen, but Ajax Tavern, at the base of Aspen Mountain, is one of the most happening places in town every afternoon during ski season. The masses flock to the bar to enjoy après-ski drinks and listen to live music. The Little Nell’s trendy yet casual restaurant also offers some fantastic dishes including a great tomato soup and grilled cheese; the Ajax wagyu double cheeseburger; and a generous potion of muscles. Start every meal with the truffle fries, a dish that has been a mainstay for two decades, and well ahead of what is now a trendy menu addition (read more on page 14)

With a name like Après, you would expect this bar to be a popular hangout in the afternoons during ski season, and it is. With a pretty wide range of cocktails and over 40 draft and bottled beers, the menu has something for all tastes (ask for a beer from the “giving tap” which donates 10 percent to a different Colorado nonprofit every month). The winter warmer cocktails are great if you are particularly chilled. Located right on Breckenridge’s quaint Main Street in a late-19th century historic building, this spot also allows you to bring in your own food. 106

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Photo: Jamie Jaye Fletcher

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BEAUTY APRÈS-SKI DRINKS MAY BE ONE OF THE MOST POPULAR ACTIVITIES TO PARTAKE IN AFTER A DAY ON THE SLOPES, BUT NO DRINK OUT THERE CAN REPLACE AN INDULGENT SPA TREATMENT

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HERE is nothing quite like a soothing spa treatment on a chilly day. With its ski-in, ski-out location and 20,000-plus-squarefoot spa, The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch may just be the perfect sanctuary on a winter afternoon. Start off by spending a good amount of time soaking in the grotto. Complete with loungers, the cozy space is unisex (so don’t forget to bring a swimsuit) and is a great way to unwind and loosen tight muscles before your treatment. As for the spa menu, there are dozens of offerings with several kinds of massage as well as facials and a selection of treatments that are specifically designed for men. The 100-minute miner’s mineral mud wrap fuses a full-body exfoliation, body wrap, scalp massage, hydrotherapy bath and full body massage. The treatment uses local charcoal mud to detox the body and amethyst oil, rose quartz salt and shea butter to calm and soothe.

Photos (this page): Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch; (opposite page): Matthew Inden / Miles

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CULTURE & EVENTS

Page 110 - Q&A: Chris Anthony

We spoke to expert skier Chris Anthony about his career, charity initiatives and Colorado

Page 112 - Bauhaus 100

The most influential art house movement of the 19th century turns 100 - read about its ties with Colorado

Page 116 - Event Spotlights We profile three must-attend festivals or events this winter

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Q&

A

Coloradan Chris Anthony is well known in skiing circles. A Winter Sports Hall of Fame inductee, he has all kinds of achievements and accolades under his belt, including being a Warren Miller veteran for nearly three decades. He is also the founder of the nonprofit Chris Anthony Youth Initiative Project. We spoke to Anthony about his career, his fascination with the legendary 10th Mountain Division and what he has going on this winter

CHRIS ANTHONY Photo: Braden Gunem

Broadly speaking, can you talk a little bit about the impact skiing has had on your life? It has defined me. It gave me direction at a time in my life when I needed it most. Where I lacked in so many other skills or academically, the sport gave me self-esteem and confidence. Looking back over your life and career, it would seem that you were pretty much destined to make a career out of skiing. But did you ever dream or seriously consider going into a different career?  I dreamed and trained to be the best. I thought perhaps that one day I would win a gold medal and never thought about anything past that. When I realized my path was not exactly on track to be the one percent of the one percent, I started to panic. I looked for other paths to success. I was bike racing at the time to stay in shape for skiing. I thought for a moment that maybe that would be my destiny because being dyslexic, academia was never going to open any doors. But the bike racing failed me or I failed it. 110

I needed to figure out a path in the sport I loved. I knew I had to get creative, because if I didn’t I was really scared about where I would end up. Can you tell us a little bit about your experience with the Warren Miller team? I grew up watching the films and going to the show every fall when Warren himself hosted it. It was magical, passionate and thrilling. As a kid I wished that someday I would be one of the skiers in his films. Warren was amazing; the films were a passion project that became a career, but he said it never felt like a job. Are there any moments that stick out in your mind from all of those years? There is literally a lifetime of mindboggling moments, 28 years of them. I’ve done things that if I described them people would think it was fiction, like Forest Gump or Indiana Jones. Perhaps one day I will sit down with my journals, articles I have written and stored memories and put those experiences in a book.

How do you feel about Colorado and what it offers in terms of adventure? Colorado is everything to me. The Spanish side of my family goes back 700 years when the Spaniards invaded [what is now] Colorado. My real last name is Rodriquez. It is the Spanish blood that gave me the red hair and the need to adventure all the time. I have gone deep into our state and never get sick of it. You seem to have visited all corners of the world. Apart from Colorado, what other places and experiences stick in your mind? There have been so many magical moments in so many locations. The ones that stay with me the longest are the ones that scared me, the ones that I’m not sure I would want to repeat. But then there are a few that made me sit there and just wonder how in the heck I ended up there, like the time I was on the top of a peak above the Arctic Circle in Norway in the middle of the night by myself. It was May, and the helicopter dropped me off then left to fly one of our injured team members to

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You have raised a lot of money for various charitable initiatives, but how important was it for you to start the Chris Anthony Youth Initiative Project rather than continue working with other organizations? Very important, but it came about organically. The last thing I wanted to do was start up another nonprofit, but when I saw some unethical practices in others and the fact that a certain percentage of youth was being ignored because they didn’t fit the scope of what grabs the most sympathy, I wanted to try and do something about it. The next thing I knew, I had a mission statement which gave me an objective to achieve. I am still very supportive of several other foundations I believe in, however. This January you will be hosting a 10th Mountain Division Ski Experience. Can you tell us a little bit about your fascination with the 10th Mountain Division? I’m a skier. I grew up surrounded by their legacy without ever knowing their story. I was pointed in the direction of

Photo: Warren Miller (center) and Chris Anthony (second from right)

I H AV E G O N E D E E P I N T O O U R S TAT E AND NEVER GET S I C K O F I T.

one of their unique accomplishments, and so I reached out to Warren Miller Entertainment to see if we could do a story about it, but they weren’t interested. But I was. I started to raise money to try and make a documentary on my own. I eventually talked WME into at least helping me with some interviews. They did and it sparked their interest. What these guys did was amazing, and that generation, WOW. The stories keep falling in my lap and I’m supposed to tell them, or so I have convinced myself. I am currently working on a second documentary. And finally, away from skiing and sports in general, we hear you interned for the actor Michael Douglas. How did that come about and what does an intern for a famous Hollywood actor actually do?

This would be another amazing chapter in the book of my life story, part of my Forest Gump journey. In short, while I was attending a graduate film school program at USC, I realized that it wasn’t going to get me the break I needed. So, I snuck onto the Paramount Studios lot and dropped off my resume at the front desk of several departments. In one of the buildings, the girl at the front desk stepped away right as I walked in. I noticed the title on one of the doors down the hallway said Vice President of Development. I ran in the empty office put my resume down on her desk and ran out. A few days later while living in a shit hole in Compton, I got a page to come in for an interview. Turned out it was Douglas / Reuther Productions. They needed an intern to do basically all the crappy work. But my foot was in the door and lots of crazy things happened.

hospital. I just sat there. No one in the world knew where I was except that pilot. The sun was just cruising below the horizon; the sky was purple and gold. Not a hint of wind. It was dead silent. I could hear the electricity in the air. It was surreal.

Chris Anthony has teamed up with the Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa to hold an exclusive ski weekend to celebrate and explore the incredible history of the legendary 10th Mountain Division Ski Troop. The four-day program includes a cocktail reception with Anthony and a screening of the documentary “Climb to Glory: Legacy of the 10th Mountain Ski Troopers;” a day skiing at Ski Cooper, where much of the 10th Mountain Division’s ski and outdoor training took place, a day skiing at Vail including skiing the Battle of Riva Ridge run, one of Vail’s original trails that was named for the 10th Mountain unit’s most famous battle in Italy’s Apennine Range, and a day skiing at Beaver Creek. Full details can be found on the Westin Riverfront’s website. 111


Herbert Bayer, bauhaus zeitschrift (bauhaus magazine), 1928. Herbert Bayer 112 Collection and Archive, Denver Art Museum; department acquisition funds. WESTOF105.COM


WEST OF 105 | CULTURE & EVENTS Bauhaus, the modernist art school that started in Germany in 1919, eventually found a somewhat unlikely second home in Aspen. 100 years after its formation, Aspen and groups throughout the Roaring Fork Valley will come together to celebrate its legacy and discuss its future One of the leading figures of Bauhaus, Herbert Bayer was a student and a teacher at the Bauhaus and was considered one of the last of the Bauhaus Masters. Relocating to Aspen in 1946 at the invitation of Walter and Elizabeth Paepcke to design the Aspen Institute, Bayer would go on to play a key role in transforming Aspen, partly by encouraging modern architecture.

Herbert Bayer, egress with appendix, 1973. Acrylic on canvas. Denver Art Museum, Herbert Bayer Collection and Archive; gift of BP Corporation.

Bayer, while the leading figure, was by no means alone in encouraging Aspen to adopt Bauhaus aesthetics. Photographer Ferenc Berko, who was also a student at the Bauhaus, was also part of the Bauhaus-inspired metamorphosis of Aspen. In addition to the 40-acre Aspen Institute campus, Bayer’s work can be seen in two of Aspen’s most iconic structures, the Wheeler Opera House and Hotel Jerome. In Denver, a Bayer piece that is relatively well known, even if it goes by a more colloquial name, is his 85-foot “Articulated Wall,” known to many Denverites as the French fry sculpture.

Herbert Bayer, seasonal reflections III, 1980. Acrylic on canvas. Denver Art Museum; Gift of the Estate of Joella Bayer.

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BAUHAUS TIMELINE 1 9 1 9 Bauhaus was founded by architect Walter Gropius in Weimar, Germany 1 9 2 8 Herbert Bayer departs Bauhaus shortly after Gropius leaves, and becomes the art director of Vogue Magazine’s German office. 1 9 3 3 Bauhaus closes under political pressure and threats from the Nazi party 1 9 3 7 Gropius relocates to the United States

Herbert Bayer, Ski in Aspen poster, 1946. Denver Art Museum Collection, Gift of the Estate of Herbert Bayer.

1 9 3 8 Bayer relocates to the United States, with only $25 to his name. That same year, the Paepckes attend an exhibit at MoMA in New York, which was designed by Bayer 1 9 4 6 Bayer and his wife move to Aspen at the bequest of the Paepckes. That same year, Bayer builds Aspen Mountain’s first sun deck, standing at 11,000 feet. 1 9 4 9 The Paepckes organized a gathering for Goethe’s 200th birthday in Aspen 1 9 5 0 The Aspen Institute for Humanistic Studies was founded by Walter Paepcke 1 9 7 5 Bayer leaves Aspen 1 9 8 5 Bayer dies at his home in Montecito

Photos (above): True Nature Healing Arts / Shawn O'Connor; (center): Marble Distillery Inn; (bottom): True Nature Healing Arts

114 Bayer, Ski in Aspen poster. Denver Art Museum Herbert Collection, Gift of the Estate of Herbert Bayer.

2 0 0 8 The Aspen Institute and the Conservancy for Tibetan Art and Culture hosted the Dalai Lama in Aspen for a celebration of Tibetan art and culture


Bayer and Bauhaus had such an impact on Aspen that the city of Aspen and the Roaring Fork Valley have come together to celebrate the 100-year anniversary of the short-lived art school with a series of events to celebrate its impact on Aspen and reignite the creative power that began a century ago. Numerous local organizations will also join in the celebration. The Bauhaus festivities kick off in January and continue through August and include lectures, seminars and tours of the Aspen Institute campus among numerous other events. Jan. 10-13, 2019: Bauhausthemed Wintersköl Celebration - Aspen’s annual toast to winter dates back to a quiet January in 1951 when locals decided to celebrate Aspen’s unique Nordic lifestyle with an eclectic weekend of festivities. The four-day celebration features on-mountain activities, free events around town, fireworks over Aspen Mountain and much more. June 7, 2019: The Bauhaus Ball - A free community celebration at the Wheeler Opera House with a Bauhaus-inspired

costume contest, Bauhaus films and more.

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June 24 - 28, 2019: Anderson Ranch: Fourth of July Parade Float Workshop - (for children only) Art workshop with participation in the Fourth of July parade July 2019: The Bauhaus movement will turn its eyes to Aspen as Heike Hanada, architect of the new Bauhaus museum in Dessau, will be in Aspen giving a series of lectures at the Aspen Art Museum in July Aug. 4 - 7, 2019: Aspen Institute Bauhaus Program Seminar— A deep dive into Bauhaus with lectures as well as Society of Fellows: Bauhaus Program Ongoing events Regularly scheduled tours of the Aspen Institute campus which was conceived and designed by Herbert Bayer with Bayer architecture, sculpture, earthworks, ceramics, paintings, photography, tapestries, and more. The Aspen Historical Society - Herbert Bayer exhibition and Bauhaus-focused city tours

Herbert Bayer, lonely metropolitan, 1932. Gelatin silver print. Denver Art Museum, Herbert Bayer Collection and Archive; gift of the Estate of Herbert Bayer.

Photos (right, all): Aspen Meadows Resort

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Photo: Nick Ferguson

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Telluride Fire Festival TELLURIDE Inspired by Burning Man, Telluride Fire Festival has succeeded in bringing the Burning Man ethos, namely a celebration of community, art and fire to the mountains of Colorado. Now in its fourth year, the Telluride Fire Festival is four days of events, performances and workshops of all kinds, as well as the much-anticipated Fire Ball, held from Dec. 6 - 9.

Transfer Warehouse as well as the Fireside Soiree at the Bob Saunders Theatre. Saturday will also offer a wide range of events and classes including a stained-glass making workshop, a glass blowing workshop and fire dancing performances at Reflection Plaza in Mountain Village. The evening culminates with the Fire Ball. Held in the Great Room at St. Sophia Gondola Station, the ball will feature fire dancers and aerial performers, DJs and a cash bar.

The event kicks off with an art reception on Thursday evening and on Friday there will be an introduction to hoop juggling workshop, fire performances at the Historic

Festive attire is recommended and all ages are welcome. Also that evening, and included in the ticket price, is the torching of the fire sculpture garden at the top of chair 7.

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X Games ASPEN The 23rd edition of ESPN’s annual winter action sports competition returns to Aspen for the 18th consecutive year from Jan. 24 - 27, 2019. X Games Aspen 2019 will see the best winter athletes (including more than 75 Olympians) descend on Aspen’s Buttermilk Mountain to compete in ski, snowboard, snowmobile and snow bike competitions. All sport competitions are free and open to the public.

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Four days of competition will be complemented by musical performances by Lil’ Wayne, Louis The Child, The Chainsmokers and Kygo. In addition to the concerts at Buttermilk, artists will play intimate club shows at Aspen’s famed Belly Up. Live coverage of the event will air on ESPN and ABC.

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Photo: David Camara / ESPN Images

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Photo: Petar Dopchev

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Fat Bike World Championships CRESTED BUT TE The five-day celebration, held from Jan. 23-27, 2019 of all things fat bike includes races, parties, demos, food, beer and the chance to become a world champion! Last year’s overall winner completed five laps of the six-mile course in 1:46:50. Sign up if you think you’ve got what it takes. Thursday and Saturday are race days, with the former

being a fun race. Saturday is the serious race with trophies awarded to the winners, cash prizes for the top five finishers in both the men’s and women’s race and a token of participation for everyone who finishes. There will also be a Vendor Village which will move to a different location each day.

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Photo: Visit Denver

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BIG APPLE FIVE WAYS WITH SO MUCH TO SEE, DO, EAT AND DRINK IN NEW YORK, WE FOCUSSED ON ONE OF THE FIVE BOROUGHS: MANHATTAN. WE HAVE FIVE DIFFERENT ITINERARIES FOR FIVE DIFFERENT KINDS OF PEOPLE, BUT WE ENCOURAGE YOU TO MIX AND MATCH TO CREATE YOUR OWN MANHATTAN ITINERARY.

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STAY EAT YOUR HEART OUT

CULTURE VULTURE

ALL IN THE FAMILY

TRENDSETTER

SEE

With two three-Michelin starred restaurants (Masa and Per Se) within a stone’s throw, the Mandarin Oriental, New York is a great hotel, both in its own right and to use as a base while you eat your way through some of the best restaurants 1 in the world. Beautiful and understated, Four Seasons New York Downtown is practically a work of art thanks to the Robert A.M. Sterndesigned building and the art that graces the walls. Be sure to wander around the hotel to admire the pieces 3 during your stay.

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Eataly, the marketplace in the Flatiron District that is dedicated to Italian cuisine, makes fresh mozzarella every day. Guests can watch as the fresh curd is pushed through a chitarra, heated, stretched and finally formed. Eat it 2 right then and there. So much of America’s history is tied up in New York. Be a tourist and visit some historical sites including Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty both should be on everyone’s bucket list. Not for you? Try the Met or the Guggenheim instead.

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For a historical tour from a sporty perspective, New York Sports Tours has a great guided tour of Midtown Manhattan that goes all the way back to 1776 with stories of how sports in New York have helped shape society and culture in the city, the country and the world.

The James, SoHo is stylish and offers plenty for adults, but it is the kid-friendly amenities that might appeal to parents. Entertainment options for kids include DVD’s, books, board games, PlayStations, kid’s bikes and helmets, special dining menus and a milk and cookie turndown service.

Broadway is the place to go for entertainment for the whole family. From “The Lion King” and “Aladdin” to “Wicked” and “Frozen,” there are dozens of family-friendly shows. For off-Broadway shows, check out the “Blue Man Group,” or “Dr. Seuss’s How the Grinch 5 Stole Christmas.”

Kids love the American Museum of Natural History, where a vast range of scientific collections are on display. After that, head over to Central Park for some ice skating. When you’re tired, get on a Big Bus tour for a hop-on-hop-off tour of the city’s 6 top sights.

Located just two blocks from Central Park, The Whitby is a very stylish property with a colorful and contemporary design. It is also located on the doorstep of one of the best shopping streets in the county: Park Avenue.

MoMA has exhibitions of all kinds. Film fans will likely enjoy “Looking at Jerry Lewis: The Nutty Professor Storyboards” which runs until March 3, 2019. Those who value good design should consider “The Value of Good Design” from Feb. 10 – May 27, 2019.

New York City Fashion Week (Feb. 8 – 16, 2019) brings fashionistas and trend-setters from across the globe to Manhattan. With plenty of fashion-related events taking place in the borough at the same time, those seeking to be in the know should plan 8 ahead to get tickets.

Take a break from being an athlete and get inspired by watching professionals push their bodies to the limit. The NBA, the NFL and the NHL are all in action between Dec. 1 and Feb. 28; the New York Knicks play at Manhattan’s Madison Square Garden.

Bringing a surfing workout to Manhattan, SURFSET’s surfboards sit about a foot off the ground and emulate the movement of actual surfboards. Work your core, improve flexibility and give your cardiovascular system a workout.

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MOVE YOUR BODY

There are plenty of food tours available in the city which gives you the flexibility to choose based on your personal preference. A few options that come with high ratings are Foods of New York Tours and New York Food Tours.

Midtown East Even hotel helps guests maintain a healthy lifestyle while traveling with a 24-hour athletic studio, in-room training “zones,” fully customizable dishes at onproperty restaurant Cork & Kale and mattresses with natural eucalyptus linens that aid sleep. 9

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P O Fo ey & A E


Photos (in order, from one to nine); Mandarin Oriental; © NYC & Company/ KateGlicksberg; Four Seasons; © NYC & Company/ Tagger Yancy IV; © NYC & Company/ Joe Buglewicz; © NYC & Company/ Marley White; © NYC & Company/ Alex Lopez; © NYC & Company/ Joe Buglewicz; EVEN Hotel

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Photos (in order, from one - nine); Antonio Diaz / CUT; St. Regis Hotels and Resorts; © NYC & Company/ Joe Buglewicz; © NYC & Company/ Will Steacy; (photos five and six):© NYC & Company/ Julienne Schaer; Gary He; © NYC & Company/ Marley White; © NYC & Company/ Joe Buglewicz

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EAT EAT YOUR HEART OUT

CULTURE VULTURE

DRINK

Wolfgang Puck’s only New York restaurant is CUT, located inside the Four Seasons Downtown. Elegant in design with artwork from the chef’s private collection, CUT offers Puck’s signature tuna tartare studded with ginger, avocado and shallots among other delectable plates. 1

The Bloody Mary was born at the St. Regis New York. A simple enough drink, there is something about enjoying one in the ritzy confines of the St. Regis. Each St. Regis property around the world has its own version of the classic cocktail, but when in New York, stick to the original, the Red Snapper. 2

The Chelsea Food Market brings together purveyors and vendors of all kinds in the indoor food hall which covers an entire city block. From cheesemakers to coffee roasters and pretty much everything in between, this is a foodie’s heaven (as evidenced by the six million annual visitors). 3

If you’re a history lover, dine at the country’s first fine-dining restaurant. Open since 1837, Delmonico’s on Beaver Street in the Financial District offers a range of dishes for both lunch and dinner, but stick with the steak to make it a true NYC meal.

Named for Ludwig Bemelmans, the bar inside the Rosewood Carlyle is like taking a step back in time. The piano player tinkles the ivories as you enjoy classic cocktails. Bemelmans’ murals of whimsical scenes of Central Park line the walls. A cover charge applies for entry after 9 pm.

Browse up-and-coming as well as established artists in Chelsea where hundreds of art galleries line the streets. While you’re in the neighborhood, be sure to walk The High Line, an elevated and abandoned railroad-turned pedestrian track.

Joe’s Pizza on 14th Street is the place to eat a slice. It has been frequented by numerous celebrities; check the walls to see who. Katz’s Deli is also a good place for families to sit down. You might recognize Katz’s as the place where Sally had her fake-gasm in “When Harry Met Sally.” 6

Stop in for a milkshake or something from the classic sandwiches menu at Ellen’s Stardust Diner on Broadway. It may get a bit noisy at this classic American diner with the famous singing servers, but kids tend to love it. They also serve full breakfast, lunch and dinner menus.

FAO Schwartz, perhaps better known as Duncan’s toy store from “Home Alone 2: Lost in New York,” just opened the doors to its new Rockefeller Plaza location after 153 years in its former location. They even have the iconic floor piano featured in the Tom Hanks classic “Big.”

It doesn’t get more fashionable than dining at one of the best restaurants in the world. While there are numerous authorities on the matter, the Michelin Guide is well-respected and Eleven Madison Park kept hold of its three stars for another year. Read about EMP’s Aspen pop-up this winter in our Aspen story on page 58. 7

Small and intimate, Death & Co. is a cocktail bar par excellence with an exhaustive list of creative concoctions. Their new book “Cocktail Codex” details the only six cocktails you’ll ever need to be able to make your own creations. Until then, you can have an expert mix them for you.

Located on the fringes of Soho and Chinatown, Canal Street Market fuses retail and food vendors to create an artisanal one-stop-shop. From jewelry and home goods to floral arrangements and apothecary, the chic menagerie offers plenty of shopping opportunities

Around the corner from the historic Grand Central Station, Grand Central Market offers a multitude of options including Sushi by Pescatore. A sister kiosk to the Pescatore Seafood Company, the sushi is prepared on site every day.

For a drink that is as healthy as it is green, the Detox Retox from Catch in the Meatpacking District is made with Viva XXXII Joven Tequila, matcha, fresh cucumber, mint and lime.

New York apparel brand Search & State specialize in cycling wear, but they do have some active wear, too. They produce every piece in Midtown Manhattan, the home of New York City’s original garment district. The company doesn’t have its own outlets, but there are two places in New York City that carry their lines. 127

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ALL IN THE FAMILY

TRENDSETTER

MOVE YOUR BODY

SHOP

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WILDLIFE SPOTTING WE TEAMED UP WITH TALENTED ILLUSTRATOR TODD TELANDER AND COLORADO PARKS AND WILDLIFE TO TELL YOU WHAT ANIMALS YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO SPOT THIS WINTER

TODD TELANDER While earning degrees in Environmental Studies and Biology, Todd Telander discovered he was happiest when his coursework took him out of the classroom, particularly when he was sketching birds, plants and insects as part of his journal. Telander recognized his calling as a science illustrator after enrolling in a natural science illustration program at his university. His freelance work took off, eventually landing him work with clients on a national and international level. Telander provided highly-rendered and scientifically-accurate ink drawings and paintings for the likes of museums, aquariums, zoos, field guides and other books.

WHITE-TAILED PTARMIGAN Lagopus leucurus This small ptarmigan goes through a dramatic molt each year to remain camouflaged in every season. Well adapted feet for walking, the completely feathered feet and toes of ptarmigans act as snowshoes and insulation for walking in snowy conditions. Colorado is the most southern portion of the range and they can be found in rocky and tundra areas of the mountains.

ELK Cervus canadensis Male elk grow and shed their antlers each year, while females and juvenile animals do not have antlers. Elk are a light brown with a distinctly darker brown neck and head. The best time to spot elk is at dawn and dusk, however, keeping a respectful distance will ensure you and the animal stay safe.

After moving to Boulder, Telander explored impressionism, surrealism and abstraction, noting artists such as Georgia O’Keefe, Claude Monet and Mark Rothko as influences. He also spent time in Denver at the Art Student League where he first explored figure drawing and plein air painting. Telander and his wife now operate The Telander Gallery in downtown Walla Walla, Washington. Telander paints in his home studio, teaches classical painting to community members and offers landscape-painting workshops. In addition to selling existing paintings, he regularly takes on commissions.

MOUNTAIN GOAT Oreamnos americanus Covered in white fur with short black horns, mountain goats blend into the rocky slopes of mountaintops perfectly and usually do not venture below tree line. A native species of Colorado, the Mountain goat was reintroduced to parts of the Collegiate Peaks, Gore Range, San Juan Mountains and West Elk Mountains in the 1950’s-1970’s.

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GREAT HORNED OWL Bubo virginianus The Great Horned Owl is one of the most widespread owls, found throughout North America in wooded areas. This large nocturnal predator sits on perches and hunts for mammals as large as rabbits using its excellent night-vision, hearing and sharp talons to catch its prey.


CLARK’S NUTCRACKER Nucifraga columbiana

SNOWSHOE HARE Lepus americanus

Clark’s Nutcracker is gray all over, except a black bill, legs and feet and black and white wings and central tail feathers. Birders can find these birds west of the Front Range in coniferous forests.

Found from 8,000-11,500 feet in elevation in the Rocky Mountains, these mediumsized hares go through a dramatic change in their appearance from summer to winter. During the summer they are brown with a white belly and black-tipped ears and during the fall they molt to become all white (except the black-tipped ears).

RINGTAIL Bassariscus astutus The Ringtail is an under-studied small mammal inhabiting rocky canyons, piñonjuniper woodlands and montane shrublands in the southern part of Eastern Colorado as well as much of the Rockies and Western half of the state.

SPOTTED TOWHEE Pipilo maculatus This beautifully-patterned songbird is often found rustling through leaf litter in dense forest floors in search of insects using a method called the “double-scratch” to move leaves out of the way. Year round, you can find this solitary bird through the state; however, they tend to move to the plains and lower elevations during winter.

WHITE-BREASTED NUTHATCH Sitta carolinensisNuthatches will cache food in tree trunk crevices for the winter. Dead trees provide excellent habitat for nesting cavities and they have been known to frequent humanplaced bird feeders.

KESTREL Falco sparverius Very adept at hovering in place when hunting for a variety of small prey items (insects, small mammals, birds and reptiles) the American Kestrel can also hunt from a perch or fence. Kestrels do not build nests but rather use the hollows made by Northern Flickers for their nests.

ALBERT’S SQUIRREL Sciurus aberti Abert’s Squirrels nest in ponderosa pine trees, so look for them in open montane forests during the day all along the Front Range and in the Southwestern part of the state. These squirrels are active year round so even in the winter you can spot them feeding on the twigs of ponderosa pine; discarded twigs at the base of a tree are a sign they are in the area.

KIT FOX Vulpes macrotis The Kit Fox is a Colorado endangered species and is extremely rare to spot here. The most western part of Colorado is considered the most easterly portion of the range of this small mammal. Kit foxes prefer semi-arid shrubland and mostly hunt for small mammals at night.

LEWIS’S WOODPECKER Melanerpes lewis Found in the mountains year-round, they move to lower elevations during the winter in search of food, and prefer open areas as opposed to heavily wooded areas. 129


PARTING WORDS

A PLACE WHERE THE BEER FLOWS LIKE WINE, W H E R E B E A U T I F U L W O M E N I N S T I N C T I V E LY F LO C K L I K E T H E S A L M O N O F CA P I ST R A N O. A LITTLE PLACE CALLED ASPEN.

- LLOYD CHRISTMAS

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Profile for West of 105 magazine

West of 105 Issue 2, Winter 2018-2019  

The best of Colorado this winter

West of 105 Issue 2, Winter 2018-2019  

The best of Colorado this winter

Profile for westof105