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Blue Planet

Issue 3 • December 2013

ATLANTIC ODYSSEY The Argonauts have landed

Panama where time never stands still

European Odyssey takes wing Focus on seabirds Women and cruising

The Oceans – Our Heritage for the Future


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Atlantic Odyssey launches joint research program with UNESCO The sailors taking part in the Atlantic Odyssey made a practical contribution to a research program under the aegis of UNESCO by launching four buoys used for oceanographic observations. The first of four drifter buoys was deployed when Mercredi Soir reached 30°W. Moxie’s buoy went walkabout at 35°W, Fleur de Sel’s was launched at 40°W and Antaviana’s at 45°W. This is the first time ever that sailors in a rally have played an active role in a scientific research program. The Atlantic Odyssey was described by one of the researchers as a testbed for the Blue Planet Odyssey. Participation in such scientific projects will be the hallmark of all our events and the success of the first Atlantic Odyssey bodes well for next year’s edition, which will include the European starters in the Blue Planet Odyssey. The first of the Atlantic Odyssey yachts to arrive in Martinique was the Italian Gemm. Martinique describes itself as the flower of the Caribbean and the welcome put on for Gemm fully justified that claim. Hosted by Port le Marin, this marina complex pulled out all stops to provide participants in this new transatlantic rally with an unforgettable image of hospitality. The Deputy Mayor of Le Marin and members of the tourism office were on the dock to welcome the Italian crew with local gifts and rum punches, and, not to be outdone, the marina extended the free docking period to 10 days. It was this kind of reception that awaited every one of the boats as they made landfall. Just as heartening was to see this new odyssey generating its own image and personality. It was quite remarkable to watch how quickly a palpable family atmosphere developed among the crews of the first Atlantic Odyssey boats to arrive for the start in Marina Lanzarote. The 16 children among the participants soon fused into an inseparable band as they forged their own lingua franca from their several mother tongues. The adults followed the young Argonauts example, and visits to the Planetarium and Timanfaya volcanic park sealed that community feeling as did the live liferaft and helicopter SAR demonstrations followed by a three day blue water seminar that covered all essential aspects of long distance cruising. Those links continued during the Atlantic crossing among those who had had the foresight to include in their communications system a SSB transceiver. The presence of satphones on many boats somewhat made up for its absence. In spite of an initial problem with the satellite tracking devices installed on every boat before the start, the system was soon put right enabling all individual positions to be shown regularly on the Atlantic Odyssey website to the delight of families and friends back home. A spell of westerly winds, virtually unheard of in those latitudes at this time of year, slowed down the fleet considerably. Some boats were forced to divert to the Cape Verdes either for fuel or to drop crew who had not counted on such a long crossing. The absence of the usual trade winds for part of the crossing may well be another sign of climate change. Both the participants and our generous hosts in Martinique agree that the first Atlantic Odyssey has been a resounding success and our attention can turn now to the January start of Atlantic Odyssey II from Lanzarote to Grenada, which will be reported in the next issue of the Blue Planet Log.

Team Cornell Sailing: Jimmy and Gwenda Cornell, Kathy Parsons, Doina Cornell, Roger Watson Pascal Guiraudou, Klaus Hympendahl, John Ellis

4 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013


L’Atlantic Odyssey lance un programme de recherche conjoint avec l’UNESCO Les navigateurs qui ont pris part à l’Atlantic Odyssey ont apporté une contribution pratique à un programme de recherche sous l’égide de L’UNESCO, en déployant quatre bouées d’observations océanographiques. La première de ces bouées dérivantes a été déployée par Mercredi Soir quand il a atteint 30°W. La bouée de Moxie est partie vagabonder à 35°W, celle de Fleur de Sel à 40°W et Antaviana a largué la sienne à 45°W. C’est la toute première fois que des navigateurs participant à un rallye jouent un rôle actif dans un programme de recherche scientifique. L’un des chercheurs a décrit l’Atlantic Odyssey comme un banc d’essai pour le Blue Planet Odyssey. La participation à de tels projets scientifiques sera la marque distinctive de tous nos événements et le succès de ce premier Atlantic Odyssey est de bonne augure pour la prochaine édition, à laquelle se joindront les bateaux du Blue Planet Odyssey partant d’Europe. Le premier des bateaux de l’Atlantic Odyssey à arriver en Martinique a été l’italien Gemm. La Martinique se présente comme la fleur des Caraïbes, et l’accueil réservé à Gemm justifie pleinement ce qualificatif. Le Port du Marin, plus grand centre nautique des Caraïbes, a tout mis en œuvre pour offrir aux participants de ce nouveau rallye transatlantique une image d’hospitalité inoubliable. L’adjoint au Maire du Marin et les membres de l’office du tourisme étaient sur le quai pour accueillir l’équipage italien avec des cadeaux locaux et du rhum, et, pour ne pas être en reste, la marina a étendu la gratuité de l’amarrage à 10 jours. Et chaque bateau qui a atterri ici a reçu le même accueil. Il a été tout aussi encourageant de voir cette nouvelle odyssée générer sa propre image et sa propre personnalité. C’était assez remarquable d’observer avec quelle rapidité une ambiance familiale palpable s’est développée parmi les équipages des premiers bateaux de l’Atlantic Odyssey arrivés pour prendre le départ à Marina Lanzarote. Les 14 enfants parmi les participants ont vite formé une bande inséparable en inventant leur propre langue à partir de leurs langues maternelles respectives. Les adultes ont suivi l’exemple de ces jeunes argonautes, et les visites du Planétarium et du parc volcanique de Timanfaya ont scellé ce sentiment de communauté, tout comme les démonstrations de radeau de survie et de l’hélicoptère SAR, suivies par un séminaire de trois jours consacré à la grande croisière qui en a couvert tous les aspects essentiels. Ces liens ont continué pendant la traversée de l’Atlantique entre ceux qui avaient eu la bonne idée d’inclure une radio BLU dans leur équipements de communication. Beaucoup de ceux qui n’avaient pas de BLU on pu compenser partiellement ce manque par leur téléphone satellite. Malgré un problème initial avec les balises de localisation par satellite, qui avaient été installées sur chaque bateau avant le départ, le système a vite été rétabli permettant de montrer les positions individuelles régulièrement sur le site web de l’Atlantic Odyssey, à la grande joie des familles et des amis restés à la maison. Une période de vents d’ouest, quasiment jamais observés sous ces latitudes à cette période de l’année, a considérablement ralenti la flotte des bateaux. Certains ont été contraints de se dérouter sur le Cap Vert, soit pour faire le plein de carburant, soit pour débarquer des équipiers qui n’avaient pas prévu une traversée aussi longue. L’absence des alizés habituels pendant une partie de la traversée pourrait bien être un signe supplémentaire du changement climatique. Les participants ainsi que nos généreux hôtes en Martinique s’accordent tous à dire que cette première Atlantic Odyssey a été un succès retentissant, et nous pouvons maintenant porter notre attention sur le départ de l’Atlantic Odyssey II en janvier, de Lanzarote vers Grenade, que nous couvrirons dans le prochain numéro du Blue Planet Log.

Logbook

ATLANTIC ODYSSEY

06 The Argonauts Take to the Seas

Atlantic Odyssey report

10 Global Drifters

The Atlantic Odyssey deploy drifter buoys

PANAMA

12 Where time never stands still 13 Meeting the Guna 14 The New Canal

BLUE PLANET ODYSSEY

15 Southern Route 16 Northern Route 18 European Odyssey

New event launched

22 Seabirds

Focus your cameras

24 Women and Cruising 28 News from the BPO Explorers 30 Long Distance Cruising Seminar

March 2014 London Seminar

Next issue: April 2014 •

Atlantic Odyssey II

Satellite Phones

Galapagos and Marquesas

Madame Karine Roy-Camille, Présidente du Comité Martiniquais du Tourisme avec Jimmy Cornell

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 5


Atlantic Odyssey start

Atlantic Odyssey yachts in Marina Lanzarote

after all, it was the taking part that counted not the winning

Doina Cornell

Atlantic Odyssey report –

the Argonauts take to the seas Eureka’s safety inspection

A

fleet of 22 sailing yachts flying the flags of 11 nations, with crews of 20 nationalities, gathered in the new Marina Lanzarote for the start of the first Atlantic Odyssey. The blue Odyssey banners flew in the breeze and crews walked the pontoons looking smart in their rally t-shirts with the

slogan Sail the Odyssey on their backs. Safety is an essential part of the event, and each yacht received a rigorous safety inspection by one of the Atlantic Odyssey team, themselves all experienced cruising sailors. The highlight perhaps was the inspection of Hungarian yacht Duck, done by Jimmy Cornell himself, in … Hungarian. Respite from the chores of getting ready to cross 3000 miles of ocean came with an active social programme spread across the fortnight before the start. The Real Club Nautico de Arrecife opened its doors for a welcome party, sailors and locals making friends over a glass or two of Lanzarote wine and some excellent Spanish tapas. The club also hosted a three-day preparatory seminar that was open to all cruising sailors whether in the Atlantic Odyssey or not, ranging from the tactics of a transatlantic passage, given by Jimmy Cornell, to Dr Nick Carter’s advice on dealing with medical emergencies at sea, and Klaus Hympendahl’s presentation on the threat of piracy around the world. Tomas Wibberenz of Parasailor gave a talk on downwind sails as well

6 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013


Children find the stones near the surface are almost too hot to hold

Trips were laid on to the local Planetarium, while the club swimming pool was also popular” All 14 children squeezed into the raft… accompanied by much merriment

as offering bespoke rigging advice to any

launched, followed by a dramatic night-

by Spaniard Javier Visiers’ Antaviana and

skipper who requested it. Martin Kramp

time rescue simulation by helicopter as

Sudoeste, a New Zealand yacht, skippered

from JCOMMOPS briefed participants on

crew members were winched to safety

by Jonathan Ash.

the drifter buoy programme (see page 10

from a vessel.

Others took the start in a more leisurely

for more details).

The delights of the beautiful island of

style, in true cruising fashion. They knew

To

participants

Lanzarote were not forgotten, as the

they’d get there in the end, as after all, it

entertained, trips were laid on to the local

keep

the

younger

sailors took an island tour, including a

was the taking part that counted not the

Planetarium, while the club swimming

visit to the National Park of Timanfaya

winning.

pool was also popular. The Atlantic

and its strange landscape of solidified

The yachts headed southwest away from

Odyssey sponsors Puerto Calero Marinas

lava punctuated by hissing geysers.

the Canaries, taking the same initial route

organised a successful evening on the

The last days before the start were taken

as Columbus more than five hundred

theme of women and cruising, moderated

up by final preparations and provisioning.

years ago, and expecting to find the

by author Kathy Parsons and local RYA

Each boat was fitted with a satellite

tradewinds somewhere near the Cape

Instructor Stephanie Charlton. Women

tracking device so their progress could

Verdes. Social media came alive as family

took part in an open-ended discussion,

be followed online during the crossing.

and friends watched the fleet’s progress

sharing practical tips and ideas how to

A brisk northeasterly wind was blowing

online and checked for daily updates.

combat real concerns such as seasickness

as the yachts made their way to the

The winds meanwhile, remained light,

or feeling confined on a small boat.

start on November 17. Although the

and those leading the fleet reported

Returning to more sober reality, the

Atlantic Odyssey is not a competitive

no sign of the trade winds. The fishing

following day saw a comprehensive

event, race fever gripped a few. Australian

was good though, as they hauled in tuna

search and rescue demonstration take

Michael Thurston on Drina, beginning

and dorado, and even a monster marlin

place off the breakwater fronting Arrecife.

his fifth transatlantic crossing, was the

– though that one got away. Two weeks

A liferaft was inflated onshore and then

first across the line, closely shadowed

into the crossing, and the hoped-for

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 7


Jose Calero, owner of Puerto Calero Marinas, and Philippe Volny-Anne, President of the Martinique Yacht Club, representing the Regional Council of Martinique steady winds still failed to materialise. A low pressure system swept through, bringing a spell of westerly winds that slowed down the boats even more. Several yachts had to make a stopover in the Cape Verdes to refuel, make repairs and crew changes. Sail the Odyssey said the t-shirts. Well, it turned out to be even more of an odyssey than anyone could have expected. Let the sailors tell the story in their own words… Day 3: Oceis: not feeling sea sick, enjoying beautiful moments with some dolphins. We’re settling into watches, but feel a bit lost not seeing any boats around us. Day 5: Sudoeste: We’re having a good passage so far. Roast New Zealand lamb for dinner last night, but no fish hooked yet! Day 7: Gemm: We’re cooking Italian pizza! We hope the wind will keep blowing! Day 10: Fleur de Sel: Wind, 3 knots; Speed, 0. We are stopped, making a Secchi Disk, and swimming…. No wind since last night so we wait. Vieux Malin, Cape Verdes: New crew arriving today. Then, we shall wait for the trades. Eureka sailed off yesterday morning, just to float, adrift in the middle of the ocean. Day 11:

Emily’s Dorado on Sudoeste enough for a meal!

Argo: Caught 50 lb dorado and saw a pod of whales. Made friends with a large whale. Day 13:

Muskat: 600 miles to go and we are

Moxie: Currently sailing SSE direction, which is backwards but it’s the best we can do.

more and more focused on landfall at

The alternative is bashing to windward into the low pressure. Have been studying

Martinique. Things like a cool beer comes

pilot charts - the chance of these conditions in November based on the last 20 years

to mind. Nevertheless we are spending

observations, virtually nil.

time playing cards, reading, watching

Day 20:

films or just looking at the sea or the sky.

Blue Pearl: Yesterday the wind left us completely. We heard on the SSB that Argo and

Selkie: We are moving along but winds

Capibara north of our position had no wind at all and were drifting. The disappointment

are still light. We decided to have a

is recognisable in their voice, so sorry for them.

twenty days at sea party with pancakes and a Christmas movie later for the kids. Day 22: Blue Pearl: Now we got fair winds! Argo and Capibara reported they were very happy. Caught a large mahimahi, lucky we have a freezer. Moxie: Things have gotten quite a bit more lively, we’re trucking along, the roar of the wake, a mini rooster tail forming behind, occasional waves paying a cheeky visit to the cockpit, grin ear to ear. Everyone else asleep - just me and the sea.

Mike, Asia and Aranya Beck on Moxie deploy the drifter buoy in the rain 8 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013


Crew of Gemm with Deputy Mayor of Le Marin, Raymond Janvier

Happy Joss arrives with a rainbow

Oliver and Nesa on Blue Pearl are happy to arrive

Some of the Argonauts!

Port du Marin The third week of the crossing saw the trades finally make an appearance, while Port du Marin in Martinique prepared to welcome the first arrivals. Gemm, an Italian Swan 55 skippered by Vincenzo Visenzi, arrived on 7 December, after twenty days, followed the next day by German Happy Joss skippered by Rudolf Hart who arrived in style, crossing the line under a magnificent rainbow. As the rest of the fleet made landfall safely, a warm Caribbean welcome awaited them on the dockside. Those nervous sailors leaving Lanzarote had turned into tanned and confident oceangoing mariners, glad to step ashore onto dry land. Their personal odyssey was over, and now it was time to celebrate. The Atlantic Odyssey is sponsored in the Canary Islands by Puerto Calero Marinas, and in Martinique by the Conseil Régional de Martinique.

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 9


Atlantic Odyssey and Blue Planet Odyssey Fleets to Deploy

Dr. Rick Lumpkin

Global Drifters

D

uring the Atlantic Odyssey starting in November, a

number of drifting NOAA buoys were deployed for

the first time from a sailing rally fleet. These drifters will become part of NOAA’s global drifter array, managed by the Global Drifter Program (GDP; www.aoml. noaa.gov/phod/dac/). The GDP manages a global 5º×5º array of over 1000 satellite-tracked drifters and provides a data processing system for the operational and scientific use of the observations they collect. These drifters were deployed in small numbers starting in 1979 in the tropical Pacific, to study current changes associated with El Niño events. Large-scale deployments started in 1988 across the tropical Pacific, and were extended to cover the Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans by 1992 and the

NOAA oceanographer Dr Rick Lumpkin with a surface drifter in Miami, FL. The surface float is at lower right; the blue holey-sock drogue has been unwrapped and stretched out for this photograph (the paper tape wrap is left in place for deployments at sea).

Southern and Indian Oceans by 1994. The array expanded to include the tropical and South Atlantic Ocean by 2004, and now spans all the world’s oceans.

10 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013

The Global Drifter Array on 18 November 2013. Red dots: drifters measuring currents and temperature; blue dots: as with red, plus barometric pressure; green dots: as with blue, plus salinity.


A drifter consists of a surface float connected by a tether to a drogue (sea anchor). The float contains alkaline batteries, a satellite transmitter, a thermistor to measure sea surface temperature, a tether strain sensor to verify the presence of the drogue, and sometimes other instruments measuring barometric pressure, wind speed and direction, and salinity. The nylon cloth “holey sock” drogue is centered at 15 meters beneath the surface to measure mixed layer currents in the upper ocean. Throughout the drogue, rigid rings with spokes support the drogue’s cylindrical shape. Each drifter weighs 20 kg (44 lbs). Before deployment, the drogue and tether are bound with paper tape, which dissolves in the water, and the tether is sometimes wrapped around a water-soluble cardboard tube to protect it from kinking. The drifter is deployed by throwing it from the stern of a vessel. After deployment, the paper tape dissolves and the drogue sinks to its

Erik Valdes of NOAA’s Global Drifter Program deploys a drifter from the stern of the NOAA ship Ronald H. Brown. The instrument has been designed to be easy to deploy by one person.

target depth. Data from the buoys is relayed via satellite to ground stations and

(www.aoml.noaa.gov/phod/soop). The organisers of the Blue

put on the Global Telecommunication System for use in weather

Planet Odyssey and Atlantic Odyssey are working in partnership

forecasting and climate state estimation purposes. Their data

with NOAA and JCOMMOPS (the Joint Technical Commission of

are quality-controlled at NOAA’s Atlantic Oceanographic and

the World Meteorological Organization and Intergovernmental

Meteorological Laboratory (www.aoml.noaa.gov) and included

Oceanographic Commission of UNESCO) which is particularly

in climate-quality data sets of ocean currents, temperatures and

exciting as it will offer deployment opportunities in new regions

salinities.

of the ocean, some currently poorly sampled, and will not expose

The GDP relies on national and international partners to

the drifters to the shock of being deployed up to 10m from the

conduct the over 1000 deployments per year needed to

sea surface at speeds of 25 kts, as is typical from cargo vessels

maintain the global drifter array. In the past, most deployments

and may be a leading cause of early instrument failures.

were conducted from oceanographic research ships and from

Updated maps indicating where drifters are needed can be seen

cargo ships participating in the Ships of Opportunity Program

at http://www.aoml.noaa.gov/phod/dac/doc_valuemaps.php.

Atlantic Odyssey

Update T he Atlantic Odyssey yachts Mercredi Soir, Moxie,

Antaviana and Fleur de Sel were chosen to deploy the first four drifter buoys in the inaugural Atlantic Odyssey which left Lanzarote on

17 November 2013. The buoys were successfully deployed

by the yachts at the specific latitudes of 30ºW, 35ºW, 40ºW and 45ºW and began to transmit their data back to the central database.

Atlantic Odyssey coordinator Pascal Guiraudou with Pierre, Isabelle, Julia and Romane Lachapelle from Fleur de Sel and Martin Kramp, JCOMMOPS Ship Coordinator

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 11


Round the world fleet transiting the Panama Canal

Jimmy Cornell

Panama

where time never stands still

L

When I first transited the

a large fleet across to the Pacific could

boats. The fact that I spoke Spanish may

Panama Canal in 1977 it was

take two or three weeks, if not more, I

have helped because when I asked for his

still under US administration,

flew to Panama a few months before

support in getting our 32 boats through

cruising

a

the arrival of the fleet, and managed

as quickly as possible, he generously

negligible minority, a fraction of the

to get an appointment with Jorge de la

agreed to give us a lockage dedicated to

roughly 1,000 yachts that nowadays

Guardia, the Administrator of the Panama

just our yachts. This had never happened

transit the canal every year. By 1991,

Canal Commission. My doubts and

before, and for good reason, because, as

when we arrived with the first round the

misgivings were blown away the instant

he explained, a fleet of small boats with

world rally, the gradual transfer of control

I walked into his imposing office. The

limited displacement, would waste far

of the canal operation to Panamanian

first ever Panamanian to be appointed

more fresh water than a large ship for

administration was well underway and

to that important position, Sr Guardia

a tiny fraction of the revenue. When the

was eventually completed in 1999.

was a friendly, affable man who took

time came, we transited with minimum

Having been told that the canal was

me by surprise by his interest in the

delay with the boats being grouped in

working to full capacity and that getting

requirements of a bunch of cruising

the locks in several nests made up of

boats

were

three boats each, a system also used on the other three world rallies that followed, as well as the Hong Kong Challenge, the first round the world race to reach the Pacific via this convenient shortcut.

Abraham Saied, Jimmy Cornell, Doralva Piper, JosĂŠ Miranda


Much has happened in Panama in the intervening years, as I found in October this year on a visit to prepare the transit of the Blue Planet Odyssey in early 2015. From a sleepy place with no building higher than four stories, Panama City now looks like a skyscraping clone of New York, the place is buzzing, and, just as on all my previous visits, the canal is operating at full capacity. The omens didn’t look good, and I was quite pessimistic about how the Blue Planet Odyssey would be received. I couldn’t have been more wrong as, once again, I managed to arrange a meeting with the essential canal officials. Once I had described the nature of the Blue Planet Odyssey and its aims, I was assured that

San Blas

our concerns for the consequences of climate change were widely shared by

enjoys a high degree of autonomy in its

exploitation” splashed across its front

the people of Panama. With the same

internal affairs. All matters of communal

made me understand in an instant

spirit of openness and hospitality that

interest are conducted strictly along

that

I had encountered on every one of my

traditional lines, with all decisions

successors were not their natural heroes.

previous visits to Panama, I was left in no

affecting the Guna population being

Nevertheless I did my best to explain to

doubt that we could count on their full

taken in unanimity, with the women

the two officials present that the Blue

cooperation for the planned transit.

having an equal vote.

Planet Odyssey was an altruistic project

Having repeatedly failed to make contact

and that all we wanted was to highlight

Meeting the Guna

by email with the Guna Congress, I had

the dangers faced by the inhabitants of

Not far from the Panama Canal Authority

no choice but to show up without an

the San Blas Islands as a result of climate

are the offices of the Guna Congress. This

appointment. I was received politely by

change. The Guna are very much aware of

ethnic minority that inhabits the San Blas

the Congress secretary Arnoldo Bonilla,

the real threat posed to their low-lying

Island, who recently changed the spelling

but the sight of a T-shirt pinned to

islands, and gradually I detected a slight

of their name to its phonetic version,

the wall with “500 years of blood and

change in their response, indicating that

the

conquistadors

and

their

they may be prepared to give us the benefit of the doubt. Although Sr Bonilla made it quite clear that they’ve had too many do-gooders (his expression) show up with offers of help in the recent past, almost without exception they all came with a hidden agenda. I could well understand their initial suspicion and was greatly relieved when, at the end of our conversation, agreed that we should stay in contact. He also advised me to get in touch nearer the time of our arrival in early 2015, and keep them informed of the Blue Planet Odyssey’s progress. San Blas will be the first of the threatened areas along the Blue Planet Odyssey route and will serve as the meeting point for the boats that had started from either Martinique or Miami. The San Blas With John Halley at Shelter Bay Marina

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 13


In 1914 the first canal was described as the eighth wonder of the world. By that same token, the new canal will certainly qualify as the ninth” programme will be defined nearer the time but one of the highlights of our stay will be a visit to the Guna Museum at Carti Sugdup, one of the main settlements. At the meeting with the Panama Canal officials it was agreed that in order to expedite the transit of the Blue Planet Odyssey fleet, from San Blas we shall proceed to Shelter Bay Marina to make the necessary formalites and preparations. From Panama City, I therefore drove across the isthmus to the Caribbean side for a meeting with Sr Carlos Valencia, the owner of the marina. Once again, the nature of our event must have made an impression as he generously agreed to host us, leaving all practical matters in the hands of John Halley, the marina manager. Having known each other for many years, it took no time at all to agree with John on our various requirements. Mission accomplished! The New Canal Some old friends, Dave Wilson and Sandra Snyder, arrived in Panama on their yacht from California in the 1980s and liked the place so much that they swallowed the anchor and became permanent residents. Sandra has written Living in Panama for expats relocating to Panama, while Dave wrote Transiting the Panama Canal in a Small Vessel, worked on the development of Shelter Bay Marina, and is now a manager for the company building the new Atlantic and Pacific locks. Looking far into the future, the Panamanian authorities, fully supported by the

Lock chamber

population, took the decision to double the current canal’s capacity by building a new set of locks, in other words virtually an entirely new canal. Designed to be used by far

own means. The best equipment has

larger ships than at present, the new locks and their gigantic gates dwarf the existing

been ordered from around the world, the

ones. Pharaonic is the only way to describe this mammoth project taken on by a

project is scheduled to be finished by the

relatively small country and, what is indeed remarkable, entirely financed by Panama’s

middle of 2015 and the huge 5 billion dollars investment is expected to be recuperated ten years after the new canal becomes fully operational. On the last day of my visit, Dave Wilson obtained the necessary permits to take me around the buzzing site, which employs some 10,000 people. I stood in awe on the floor of one lock chamber looking up at its 30 metre high walls the size of a large cathedral. Next year will mark the centenary of the opening of the first canal in 1914 and, at that time, it was described as the eighth wonder of the world. By that same token, the new canal will certainly qualify as the ninth.

Set of new locks on the Pacific side

14 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013


Southern Route Provisional route And schedule 2014-2015 The world has seen many changes since the first round the globe rally circled the planet in 1991-1992, the number of sailors undertaking long voyages has more than doubled and cruising boats have reached some of the remotest parts of the world. It has been therefore quite a challenge to devise a route that does justice to both the nature and aims of the Blue Planet Odyssey. The following schedule is only meant as a basic planning framework as the details of visits to some of the more remote or less frequented places can only be confirmed at a later date.

2014 Miles London – Lanzarote (Canary Islands)* 12 Jul 1500 (as part of the European Odyssey) New York – Annapolis* 3 Oct 240 Annapolis rendezvous 9 – 13 Oct Norfolk, VA – St Martin 1 Nov 1360 Lanzarote – Martinique 16 Nov 2800 (as part of the Atlantic Odyssey) Miami to Havana* 28 Dec 195 2015 Miles Cuba – Porvenir (San Blas Islands) 11 Jan 1080 Martinique – Porvenir 11 Jan 1120 San Blas stopover 22 Jan – 3 Feb San Blas – Cristobal 4 Feb 80 Shelter Bay Marina (Panama) stopover 5 – 9 Feb Transit Panama Canal 10 – 14 Feb San Diego - Baquerizo Moreno (Galapagos)* 1 Feb 2620 Panama – Baquerizo Moreno: pursuit 12 - 16 Feb 910 Baquerizo Moreno stopover 19 Feb – 2 Mar To Puerto Ayora 3 Mar 50 Puerto Ayora stopover 4 – 9 Mar [Easter Island alternative route**] Galapagos – Hiva Oa (Marquesas) 10 Mar 2980 Cruise Marquesas Taiohae (Nuku Hiva) rendezvous 15 Apr Cruise Tuamotus 20 Apr – 3 May San Francisco – Papeete (Tahiti)* 14 Apr 2740 Papeete (Tahiti) rendezvous 5 May Tahiti stopover 5 – 9 May Cruise Society Islands 10 – 19 May Bora Bora rendezvous 20 - 22 May Bora Bora – Palmerston (Cook Islands) 23 May 680 Palmerston stopover 28 May – 3 Jun [Tokelau - Tuvalu alternative route***] Palmerston – Niue: pursuit 31 May – 3 Jun 390 Niue stopover 3 – 7 Jun Niue – Vava’u (Tonga): pursuit 5 – 8 Jun Vava’u stopover 8 – 15 Jun Savusavu (Fiji) rendezvous 28 - 30 Jun Cruise Fiji 28 Jun – 14 Jul Musket Cove (Malololailai) rendezvous 15 Jul Musket Cove – Tanna (Vanuatu) 18 Jul 520 Tanna stopover 22 – 26 Jul Cruise Vanuatu 27 Jul – 11 Aug Luganville (Santo) rendezvous 12-15 Aug Santo – Mackay 18 Aug 1080 Mackay stopover 25 Aug – 4 Sep Cruise Great Barrier Reef 5 – 25 Sep Thursday Island rendezvous 26 Sep

**Easter Island route Puerto Ayora (Galapagos) – Easter Island Easter Island – Pitcairn – Mangareva (Gambier Islands) – pursuit Cruise Tuamotus Papeete (Tahiti) rendezvous ***Tokelau - Tuvalu route Palmerston – Suwarrow: pursuit Suwarrow stopover Suwarrow – Tokelau: pursuit Tokelau – Funafuti (Tuvalu): pursuit Funafuti stopover Cruise Tuvalu Tuvalu – Ndende (Solomon Islands): pursuit Cruise Solomon Islands Honiara – Cairns (Australia): pursuit Cairns stopover Cruise Great Barrier Reef Thursday Island rendezvous Indian Ocean Torres Strait – Saumlaki (Indonesia) Cruise Indonesia Singapore rendezvous Cruise Western Malaysia Phuket (Thailand) rendezvous Thailand stopover

2015 Miles 10 Mar

1930

28 Mar 23 Apr – 3 May 5 May

1420

31 May – 3 Jun 3 – 10 Jun 8 – 10 Jun 15 – 19 Jun 20 – 27 Jun 28 Jun – 12 Jul 10 – 12 Jul 22 Jul – 16 Aug 17 – 19 Aug 25 Aug – 9 Sep 10 – 25 Sep 26 Sep

290 570 735

1065 1220

27 Sep 680 5 – 27 Oct 28 – 31 Oct 1 – 20 Nov 21 – 23 Nov 21 Nov – 2 Jan

The schedule for 2016 will be announced later. The European start in London, and the subsequent voyage to the Canary Islands, has been incorporated in the European Odyssey, a new rally calling at ports in France, Spain, Portugal and Morocco, before finishing at Lanzarote. The transatlantic passage from the Canary Islands to Martinique will be sailed as part of the Atlantic Odyssey. Boats starting from New York have a rendezvous planned at Annapolis, which will coincide with the annual boat show. From Annapolis, they can either continue south and join a number of other boats for the Miami start on 28 December, or leave from Norfolk for the Eastern Caribbean on 1 November. After the finish in St Martin, they will join the European starters in Martinique, from where they will sail on to the San Blas Islands (Panama) on 11 January.

*Primary starting locations

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 15


Northern Route

Provisional route and schedule 2014 The suggested route changes have been dictated by the need to be on station and ready to commence a transit of the Northwest Passage by 20 July. Date Miles London – Peterhead 1 Jun 420 Peterhead – Kirkwall (Orkney) 7 Jun 120 Kirkwall – Christian Sound 11 Jun 1250 [Oban – Christian Sound 12 Jun 1240] Cruise Southern Greenland 20 – 28 Jun Nuuk stopover 29 Jun – 4 Jul Nuuk – Sisimiut 5 Jul 180 Depending on the state of ice, there are three main route options from Sisimiut: A. Sisimiut – Upernavik 10 July 360 Upernavik stopover 11 – 15 July A.1 Upernavik – Pond Inlet 16 July 400 A.2 Upernavik – Lancaster Sound/Resolute Bay 16 July 650 B. Sisimiut – Pond Inlet

15 July

620

C. Sisimiut – Lancaster Sound/Resolute Bay

15 July

920

Pursuit legs Some of the legs either starting from a port or anchorage with limited capacity, or finishing in such a location, will be run as a pursuit, with the boats starting on their own and not in a group. Communications with the rest of the fleet will continue as per the usual procedure.

Cruising legs In all attractive cruising grounds along the route, participants will be able to explore the area on their own. For safety and logistical reasons, they are expected to continue keeping in touch with the rest of the fleet via the daily reporting schedule.

Rendezvous ports At the end of a cruising leg the fleet will meet at a designated port and will continue together to the next destination. When two cruising legs succeed each other, participants have the option to skip the intermediate rendezvous but must inform the organisers of their decision.

16 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013

Resolute Barrow

NORTHWEST PASSAGE

Gjøa

ALASKA

Nuuk

Dutch Harbor Vancouver

NORTH AMERICA San Francisco

St John's New York Norfolk

San Diego Jamaica Panama Tokelau

Marquesas Tahiti Gambier Pitcairn SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN

Bermuda Miami Havana

Cabo Hawaii

Halifax

Galapagos

St Mar

Martin San Blas Cayenne SOUTH AMERICA

Rio de Janeiro Easter Island


Reykjavik

EUROPE

London Cherbourg Azores

La Coruna Porto Lisbon Rabat

Sevastopol Gibraltar

Malta Olympia Port Said

nique

Osaka

Shanghai

NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN

Hong Kong

Lanzarote

rtin

ASIA

Salalah AFRICA

Cape Verde

Djibouti

Phuket Cochin Maldives

Belém

Guam

Andaman Galle Singapore

INDIAN OCEAN

Tuvalu

Torres

Salvador

Cairns Mackay

St Helena AUSTRALIA Cape Town

African start Australian start North American Atlantic return routes North American Pacific return routes

Fiji Vanuatu

Tonga

Sydney Auckland

SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN Southern route Northern route North American Atlantic starts North American Pacific starts Southern route alternative Easter Island route

Micronesia

Philippines

NEW ZEALAND

SOUTHERN OCEAN

ANTARCTICA

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 17


St Petersburg

Hamburg London Cherbourg

EUROPE

Lorient

Sevastopol

La Coruna Porto Lisbon Gibraltar Rabat

AFRICA

Hamburg Jimmy Cornell

D

O

European Odyssey S

EU

Arrecife

R

E OP

YS

AN

SEY

ailors planning to sail from

engaged in business with the world ever

tradition and 2014 has been declared the

Northern

the

since it joined the Hanseatic League

year of water sports, with the European

Canaries or Mediterranean

trading bloc in the Middle Ages. The first

Odyssey foremost among the events

now have the opportunity to

link with the City of London was recorded

planned for that summer. The start will

join the European Odyssey as it makes

in 1282, and the privileges granted to

be given in the very heart of the city from

its way south with stops in the United

the Hanseatic site called the Steelyard,

where the yachts will sail down the Elbe

Kingdom, France, Spain, Portugal and

were confirmed by King Edward I in 1303.

to the open sea.

Morocco. Starting from Hamburg in

Hamburg prides itself on its maritime

Europe

to

July 2014, the yachts in the European Odyssey will sail across the North Sea to Hamburg’s twin, the City of London. Here they will join the start of the Blue Planet Odyssey round the world rally. Hamburg This busy port on the River Elbe describes itself as “the gateway to the world”. This is not an exaggerated claim as Germany’s second-largest city and biggest port has

18 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013

London


Cherbourg London The European Odyssey will be docked in one of the marinas along the River Thames. With a vast choice of attractions as well as free entry to all national museums and galleries, a visit to London on your own yacht will leave a lasting memory. A spectacular send-off for the European Odyssey is planned on the River Thames where the iconic Tower Bridge will be raised to send the yachts on their way to Cherbourg in Normandy. Cherbourg The French national holiday of 14 July will be spent in this historic port, where a rich programme has been prepared with visits to local attractions, medieval forts and parks, as well as the famous landing beaches of 1944. Once a major port for transatlantic voyages, Cherbourg prides itself on a vast museum housed in the former sea terminal, where visitors can board the largest nuclear submarine, make a virtual expedition to the bottom of the ocean, and wonder at the evolution of underwater exploration vehicles. Lorient For sailors based on the French Atlantic coast an alternative start is also planned in the Breton port of Lorient. Set at the heart of the so-called Sailing Valley that stretches from Brest to Vannes, Lorient prides itself on having some of the best yachting

Lorient

facilities and services in France. The legendary sailor Eric Tabarly used to be based here and the interactive museum City of Sails is dedicated to his memory. A convivial race takes place every year on the national holiday when vessels of any shape or size take part in a circumnavigation of Groix Island. La Coruña The favourite landfall to crown a successful crossing of the Bay of Biscay, La Coruña is usually described as one long sea front, as indeed the extensive beach dominates this ancient Galician city. In contrast to its old quarters, the new National Museum of Science and Technology is a masterpiece of modern architecture, and a bold homage to Spain’s technological heritage. La Coruña’s latest marina will be a convenient base to explore this remote part of Spain famous for its seafood and distinctive wine grown on the slopes of the nearby Rias Baixas, the deep estuaries that are a feature of the wild Atlantic coast.

Porto Settled on the banks of the River Douro, the roots of this splendid medieval town go back to Roman times. Porto’s historic centre is the Ribeira district, a Unesco World Heritage Site of elegant plazas, old houses of commerce, baroque churches, and Roman ruins poking out from beneath their foundations. As the birthplace of port wine, aficionados the world over are drawn to the scores of bodegas on the riverside of Vila Nova de Gaia, with tempting lodges open for tastings. In summer, Porto’s musical tradition brings together top rock, jazz and pop artists. Lisbon Spread across the steep hillsides that overlook the River Tagus, Portugal’s capital is a jumble of medieval monasteries, grand palaces, Gothic cathedrals and riverside docks. For those who wish to discover the soul of this vibrant city, it is in the narrow lanes and quaint back streets where the true Lisbon is hidden. Bright yellow trams wind their way through narrow streets to old quarters and a village-like atmosphere with cafes tucked away in tiny squares. In the hilltop district of Bairro Alto, the streets are lined with restaurants, bars and night clubs, but the places to seek out are those where original fado is still being played, the traditional melancholic singing that leaves no heart untouched. La Coruña Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 19


From Lisbon, boats bound for the Mediterranean will sail to Gibraltar, while those bound for the Canaries will head for Rabat, the capital of Morocco. Gibraltar At the crossroads of two seas and two continents, Gibraltar’s unique position as the gateway to the Mediterranean has given it an importance far exceeding its small size and population. The massive rock contains some of the most extensive military fortifications in Europe, spanning over 1200 years of Moorish, Spanish and British history. Very few yachts passing through fail to stop at one of its two marinas, whether to wait for favourable conditions to continue their voyage or to take advantage of Gibraltar’s duty-free status, which ensures low prices on many goods, from electronics to whisky. Rabat Compared with other parts of Morocco where tourism is thriving, the country’s capital with its attractive colonial architecture and palm-lined boulevards has preserved a quiet dignity. Rabat has a long and rich history, and plenty of monuments to show for it from the Phoenician, Roman, French and Almohad times. The ancient medina is a place of surprises, whether for sightseeing or shopping, while the picturesque kasbah, with its narrow alleys, art galleries and ocean views, is also worth exploring. Lanzarote There are few islands in the world that have such a distinctive character as Lanzarote. Instantly recognizable wherever you go,

Lisbon

the colours of black, white and green give a special unity to the island; black volcanic rock, dazzling whitewashed houses with

Landfall in the Canaries will be at the new Marina Lanzarote.

bright green painted doors and windows. There is an African feel

Those who intend to cross the Atlantic later in the year will

to the villages, which is not surprising as the island is the closest

benefit from special long term discounts on docking as well as

of all the Canary Islands to the African coast, barely 55 miles at

haulout fees. Further incentives will be offered to those who

the nearest point.

wish to join the Atlantic Odyssey I to Martinique, starting from Lanzarote on 16 November 2014 or the Atlantic Odyssey II to Grenada starting from La Palma on 8 January 2015.

Porto


Gibraltar

Lanzarote Start Miles Hamburg – London

3 July

420

London – Cherbourg

12 July

170

Cherbourg – La Coruña

20 July

470

[Lorient – La Coruña

21 July

350]

La Coruña – Porto

29 July

145

Porto – Lisbon

5 August

150

[Lisbon – Gibraltar

12 August

295]

Lisbon – Rabat

12 August

320

Rabat – Lanzarote

20 August

460

From 2015, the European Odyssey will expand to attain a wider European dimension featuring starts from St Petersburg in the Baltic Sea to Istanbul, Odessa and Sevastopol in the Black Sea. More details on www.europeanodyssey.org Rabat

In London the Atlantic Odyssey will join the start of the Blue Planet Odyssey” Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 21


Diana Doyle

Focus Your Cameras

on Seabirds I

If you’ve sailed anywhere in the North Atlantic, you’re

Seabirds are the last frontier of birding and are poorly

probably familiar with northern gannets, large white

documented. These elusive birds, which spend most of their lives

seabirds with black-tipped wings that feed with dramatic

at sea, are under dire pressure right now from pollution, fishing,

plunge-dives.

and climate change. All this is happening at a critical time when

Last year, a northern gannet showed up at California’s Farallon

the ocean’s currents, temperatures, and ice layers are shifting. So scientists and conservation groups need your sightings.

Islands—if you missed the import of that, on the Pacific Ocean. How did it ever get there? Scientists speculate it may have

As Blue Planet Odyssey participants sail these under-surveyed

travelled through the now-open waters of the Northwest

areas, they are in a unique opportunity to make a contribution.

Passage, a vagrancy made possible by climate change.

Each vessel is what scientists call a “ship of opportunity.” You are valuable eyes on the water, to report seabirds, marine mammals,

A few years ago, a New Zealand storm petrel—thought to

sea turtles, and marine debris.

be extinct since 1850—landed on a fishing boat and was photographed. That led to the subsequent discovery of its

Digital cameras have transformed citizen science. Now everyone

nesting colony, and the bird is now protected as a critically

can document and share their sightings, and scientists receive

endangered species. Even more astounding, a new species of

verifiable reports. Fortunately, you may be able to adapt what you

seabird was recently discovered off Puerto Montt, Chile, sighted

already own, or purchase one of the new portable super-zoom

from a cruise ship.

cameras for less than a few hundred dollars. Ideally a camera

22 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013


should have the following three components: 1) zoom capability, 2) vibration reduction, and 3) geo-tagging (automatic recording of lat-long, which is optional). Geotagged photographs are the big deal. They are the best way to ensure that observations are documented and that identifications are vetted. When you get to port, and have hot-and-cold running Internet, we will help with or confirm the identifications using a network of expert volunteer reviewers. Only then will sightings be logged into eBird, a global database managed by Cornell University’s Lab of Ornithology (www.ebird.org). With your permission and credit, your photographs also can contribute to a new crowdsourced social field guide, called BirdFellow (www.birdfellow. com). Seabirds need you. With the BPO fleet traveling through regions with almost no eBird reports, this is a particularly exciting and unique opportunity. Imagine if a Blue Planet vessel photographed an out-of-range Atlantic or Pacific seabird along the Northwest Passage? That would be big stuff for the riddle of out-of-range seabirds and the implications of climate change. So let’s focus those cameras on seabirds! A full version of this article with practical tips for sailors is published on the Blue Planet Odyssey website. Diana Doyle and her husband Mark live aboard a PDQ 34 power catamaran, from which they produce their On the Water Chart Guides series of cruising guides and electronic charts for the U.S. Atlantic Coast. An avid birder, Diana is the founder of the SeaBC Sea Bird Count, writes for birding magazines, and is a department editor for American Birding Association.

Imagine if a Blue Planet vessel photographed an out-of-range Atlantic or Pacific seabird along the Northwest Passage


Many of us really appreciate having a single sideband ham radio aboard

Kathy Parsons

Women and Cruising F or more than 10 years, several

work for different people. We suggest

women friends and I have

experimenting with several remedies and

been conducting “Women

techniques, and we all have certain things

and Cruising” seminars at

we do before a passage to minimize

boat shows and cruising conferences.

the seasickness triggers: for example,

Our stated goal has been to give women,

preparing meals in advance, organizing

and especially women new to cruising,

supplies in the cockpit to minimize

an opportunity to ask questions and to

rooting around in lockers early in the

voice their concerns about cruising. When

voyage, and eliminating boat odours.

we do these seminars, two or three of us

Steering the boat and staying hydrated

always respond to each issue, because

also help during the voyage.

our ultimate goal is to help women find

After seasickness, the next most common

their own unique way. Sometimes, Pam

questions relate to fears that women have

Wall and Beth Leonard and I all agree in

about cruising. They want to know how

our reply to a question, but just as often,

we stay healthy and how to get medical

we have different answers. Whereas I

care if we don’t, and whether cruising is

might say “I would always…”, Pam might

safe, i.e. concerns about security, piracy

say “I would never...” There are many,

and crime. The big surprise is that this

many ways to organize life aboard to

is typically the first answer that we

best suit your own interests, skills, needs,

all agree on: we tend to feel safer out

shipmates and situation.

cruising than we do ashore.

Each seminar is different, yet over time

We are certainly much healthier! Living

there are questions that are raised over

an active, healthy lifestyle, seems to

and over again. The question most often

make us less susceptible to all the

raised is about seasickness. Landlubbers

pollution, colds and flu that plague

tend to think that people who take to

overstressed landlubbers confined inside

the sea must be people with stomachs

buildings. Also, medical care in many

of iron who never get queasy. In reality,

of the countries we cruise, or places

among the majority of cruising couples,

we might worry about, have different

often one person is susceptible, the other

standards from those to which we are

immune. A lengthy discussion ensues

accustomed, but generally prove to be

because different seasickness remedies

quite good and inexpensive. Many of us

24 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013

Perhaps the biggest unspoken fear is: “What if something happens to my partner?”

The happiness of sailing as a family


have had occasion to appreciate our decision to have a single sideband/ham radio aboard as a means to get medical advice while still at sea or to find out ahead of time the name of a good doctor in the next port. The one area where we always advise caution is sun exposure. Living outdoors as much as we do, with direct sunlight and sun reflected off the water, we must protect our skin with hats, sunscreen, clothing, bimini tops and sunshades. If you ever see someone anchored near you sunbathing on deck, you know they are likely either charterers or guests. Cruisers don’t sunbathe! As for security concerns, again we generally feel safer cruising than ashore. Certainly, there have been incidents of piracy, thefts on the water and in the boatyard, but we are much less susceptible to crime when we are cruising than when we are on land. It is human nature to be more fearful of the unknown risks, such as piracy, than the known risks that we face on land every day, such as muggers or traffic. On land, we take the appropriate precautions to go on living our lives, so it is the same when cruising. Once you have a sense of what the areas of concern are, you take the appropriate precautions. We share the many ways that we have learnt: how safe is the next destination and what precautions we take, such as, not flaunting money or jewelery ashore, being vigilant when using ATMs, locking the dinghy, avoiding areas that are experiencing problems, plus being respectful of local mores. There are so many wonderful cruising areas without serious crime issues, that we are more than happy to avoid the areas where we might not feel safe today, such as Venezuela.

We have engaged with the larger human community Yvonne and Bernie Katchor

Other fears raised in the seminars concern night sailing, sailing out of sight of land, and weathering storms at sea. In terms of

it: sighting a moonbow, trails of phosphorescence sparkling in

practical advice, we talk about properly stowing a boat, night

our boat’s wake, skies studded with stars as big as chocolate

watches, protecting night vision, making prompt and prudent

chips, meteor showers, shooting stars, Northern lights, and the

sail decisions, and learning to understand area weather patterns.

magical night when a dolphin jumped over the moon.

The overall perspective of our answer is to share how seldom

Perhaps the biggest unspoken fear is: “What if something

we actually experience storms at sea, and then we each tell our

happens to my partner?” The short answer is that you need to be

stories about the unique joys of night sailing after we relax into

prepared to take over if your partner becomes incapacitated: to be able to call for help, navigate, and make the boat manageable

Marlena and Brandi with mums

to singlehand to safety. We discuss the key skills that each partner needs in order to respond to emergencies, and how best to acquire them. This discussion leads to a bigger realization: it just doesn’t work to be a passenger aboard! When the man is the one with the dream, and the woman is hesitant, too often the man sells his partner on cruising as a vacation: “Don’t worry, dear, I will take care of everything.” Not only does this lead to the woman being more nervous about sailing, because she doesn’t understand the boat, weather or navigation, but the husband may not have equipped the boat in ways that make it realistic for her to operate (electric winches, doubled-handed winch handles, etc.). She then tends to feel helpless and removed from the adventure of cruising together as a team. Lacking the knowledge and boat-

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 25


handling skills, the woman can feel out of control, leading to a quick downward spiral of self-confidence. Although we certainly have our days of perfect sails, sandy beaches, and rum drinks, cruising isn’t a vacation; it’s a lifestyle, all day, every day, for however long you’re out there. Just as it is ashore, there is tedium and frustration, problems to solve, days that don’t go as planned. If a woman has been sold on cruising as a vacation, she is likely to feel misled when the inevitable frustrations occur. The man aboard just can’t take care of all the problems aboard; it takes a team working together to find the best solutions. In reality, cruising is so much more than a vacation. When we become engaged in it, cruising changes our lives. It makes us more capable, more knowledgeable of the world and its people, more fit, more courageous, more confident, richer in friendships, and less preoccupied with insignificant trivia. The time and

How we provision

palette of the cruising life can lead us to discover or to develop new interests that we never had the time to pursue while in

We always get at least one question about relationships. Women

full-time careers and/or parenthood. Many cruising women have

ask, “What is it like to live 24/7 with another person on a boat?”

discovered or further developed their talents as writers, painters,

Our answers vary because we each have differing needs for

jewelers, birdwatchers, bloggers, photographers, or musicians

personal space. I personally like to go ashore alone and take a

while aboard and abroad.

walk, engage in some recreational shopping in port, or take a

In the seminars, we talk a lot about skills: women have lots of

dinghy ride around the anchorage. We also find that it is easier

questions about how much each person needs to know about

than you might think to create a quiet personal space aboard

sailing, navigation, maintenance, and weather. Women are often

and become immersed in writing, reading, or other favorite

surprised to hear what many of us have learned: often, the

activity. The bigger answer is that this experience of being a

best person to be at the helm is the woman. Let the man raise

team sharing such a grand adventure can strengthen a couple’s

and lower the anchor, and handle the dock lines and halyards -

or family’s relationship.

areas that require more physical strength. Women make good

As Nadine Slavinski wrote about cruising with her husband and

helmspersons!

son, “Cruising had been a chance for us all to work toward a

We also suggest that women help other cruising women: if you

common goal and thereby deepen our bonds.”

see a woman who is hesitant to drive the dinghy alone, take her

Many women are concerned about the mechanics of living

out and teach her; teaching someone a skill often improves your

aboard: “How do we… get our mail, pay our bills, get money,

own skill. If you are that hesitant woman, ask another woman to

keep in touch with family and friends back home, do our laundry,

teach you. Many cruising friendships are developed as cruisers

provision, keep clean, get our prescription medicines, and so

share information and help each other. Thus, we become a

on?” Of course, there is no room here to share with you all our

community. The floating classsroom


Women make good helmspersons answers, but if you would like a copy of

Bonds with our partners and families are

the handouts from the seminar with many

strengthened, as we share an incredible

of our suggestions, email me at kathy@

set of memories. We have engaged with

cornellsailing.com, and be sure to visit

the natural world and with the larger

our website, www.womenandcruising.

human community as well, giving us

com for a boatload of FAQ’s, resources,

a greater sense of our place on this

articles, photos, and good advice.

water planet. The fact that we found

Ironically, women tell us that they

the courage to live this one particular

leave the seminar with answers to an

dream – of sailing the world – gives us

important question that they seldom

the courage to pursue our other dreams,

explicitly ask: “What’s in it for me?” It is

whatever they may be.

difficult for us to talk about our cruising lives without enthusiasm and gratitude.

Kathy Parsons is the founder of the website

We have developed friendships, with

www.womenandcruising.com and author of

both other cruisers and the people who

the bestselling language guides Spanish

live in the ports we visit, that we will

for Cruisers and French for Cruisers.

carry with us for the rest of our lives.

Around the world in your seventies

Travelling with our two young children, Doina and Ivan, coloured our journey continually. In most parts of the Pacific, the extended family system flourishes and children are regarded with special love and affection. Often on leaving an island, we were brought gifts of fruit and drinking coconuts, the donor invariably saying they were ‘for the children’. Being a family unit made a difference to how we were accepted into a new community. We were a social unit that everyone recognised; it made us more normal and ordinary, a contrast to the usual officials or visitors who flew in and quickly flew out again.” Gwenda Cornell Extract from Pacific Odyssey

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 27


News from the BPO

Explorers

The Blue Planet Odyssey fleet continues

tourists. Everyone should be concerned with

to grow, as we welcome onboard

changing climate conditions and the effect

several new entries, and as you can read

that these are having on many countries in

below, these sailors bring a wonderful

the world and we welcome the opportunity

enthusiasm that will only serve to enrich

to raise awareness of this issue.”

the Blue Planet Odyssey even further. As

Jeff and Anne Posner

Rob and Carol Harvey

2013 draws to a close, the 2014 starts in

Justin

London, Miami and elsewhere are rapidly

Dunning have over 20,000 miles

approaching, and people are firming up

on the water between them, and have

their plans of where they plan to join the

been living aboard together for 3 years.

fleet, and preparing their boats for long

They’ll be sailing aboard their new Baba

distance cruising.

40, Coconut Woman and plan to finally

Smith

and

Meredith

exchange vows in the Caribbean before After years of sailing on the Baltic,

the start of the BPO.

Mediterranean, North Sea, Caribbean, and

“The reasons that brought us to the Blue

the Atlantic, Jeff and Anne Posner

Planet Odyssey are the same reasons that

planned to begin their retirement years

brought us together in the first place:

living on their boat Joyful, a Wauquiez 40,

sailing, education, and helping out in any

while cruising in various parts of the world.

way we can. We are particularly excited to

“Our goals were to do good works for others,

play an active role in raising awareness of

contribute to scientific endeavors, and

our changing oceans via interaction with

support the education of the youth at home

people from around the world, and we look

and abroad as we cruised. Accordingly, we

forward to creating a legacy we can be

were absolutely delighted to hear that the

proud of for both our present and future

Blue Planet Odyssey’s goals are an ideal

families.”

match with ours. What sealed our decision to participate in the BPO was that Jimmy

When they first heard about the Blue

Cornell was orchestrating the rally. We are

Planet Odyssey, Jerry Schuster and

looking forward to contributing to the goals

Ginny Malmquist thought, “How

of the BPO in all ways possible and making

nice for those people!”, but as Ginny

lifelong friends of fellow participants and

prepared for retirement from her career

peoples from the countries along the route.”

as a counselor, she realized it was now or never.

Justin Smith and Meredith Dunning

Jerry Schuster and Ginny Malmquist 28 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013

Rob and Carol Harvey are sailing

“We bought our first boat, Heron Reach,

on Maggie, a Passport 470. They started

a 1987 J40, a little over a year ago. Jerry

sailing eleven years ago after they both

has been a build it/fix it person doing

retired.

everything from R & D on the Apache

“Sailing was to be both an adventure

helicopter to now running the greenest car

and an opportunity for continual learning,

mechanic’s shop in Washington State. We

as well as an opportunity to see some

have actively worked to raise awareness

of the world’s great sailing locations. A

about climate change in our community

circumnavigation, however, was only a

of Bellingham, WA and have been active

distant dream. The BPO sounded like the

in our local Transition Movement. Our log

perfect opportunity to sail safely in a

home sits on 20 forested acres, 10 miles

well organized and planned event with

from the Canadian border and 18 miles

like-minded sailors, including one of the

from the Salish Sea (aka, Puget Sound). We

world’s foremost sailing authorities on

will miss being so connected to the land,

circumnavigations. At the same time it

but we’re looking forward to a completely

would allow us to be more than just

different and wonderous world on the sea.”


Blue Planet Odyssey Confirmed Participants List TBA = to be announced Boat Name

Design/LOA

Owner

Country

Route

Start

1

Arctic Monkey

Exploration 45

Lou & Zetty Morgan

USA

Northern

London

2

Aventura IV

Exploration 45

Jimmy Cornell

GBR

Northern

London

3

Chapter Two

Lagoon 45

Paul Hart

USA

Southern

Miami

4

Coconut Woman

Baba 40

Justin Smith & Meredith Dunning

USA

Southern

Miami

5

Eva

Eva 56

Julie & Claude Borel-Saladin

RSA

Southern

Caribbean

6

FarAway

Pearson 367

Lou & Trish Reynolds

USA

Southern

Panama

7

Festina Lente

Discovery 55

Nick Pochin

GBR

Northern

London

8

Gémeaux

Fountain-Pajot Helia 44

Éric & Patricia Frangeul

FRA

Southern

Canary Islands

9

Gusto

Custom Chuck Paine 44

Dick Bower

USA

Northern

Maine

10

Heron Reach

J Boat 40

Jerry Schuster & Ginny Malmquist

USA

Southern

Galapagos

11

Imagine

Beneteau First 47

Richard Lednicky & Andrea Van Hoven

USA

Southern

New York

12

Joyful

Wauquiez 40

Jeff & Anne Posner

USA

Southern

Norfolk

13

Khujada 2

Ovni 395

Julian & Albane Smart

GBR

Southern

London

14

Libby

Super Maramu 53

Terry & Dena Singh

USA

Southern

San Diego

15

Living For Wind

Leopard 48

Octaaf & Alma Bulterys

RSA

Southern

Martinique

16

Maggie

Passport 470

Rob and Carol Harvey

CAN

Southern

Martinique

17

Marco Polo

Outremer 55

Jan Michel Pinto da Silva

BRA

Southern

Caribbean

18

No Regrets

Atlantic 42

Tim Liveright/Zeke Holland/ William Hickson

USA

Southern

Miami

19

Odyssea

Beneteau Oceanis 40

Pablo Aguilera

USA

Southern

Miami

20

Pearl Fisher

Oyster 56

Philip Goymour

AUS

Southern

Canary Islands

21

Ransom

Hinckley 49

Tim & Ceci King

USA

Southern

Miami

22

Blue Wind

Wind 44

James Bellini

BRA

Southern

Caribbean

23

Strangetrader

Hallberg Rassy 46

Robert & Andrea Schwamberg

AUS

Southern

Lanzarote

24

Suilven

Oyster 47

John & Linda Andrews

GBR

Northern

Oban

25

Ursa Major

Kadey Krogen 54

Bill & Laurey Stanley

USA

Southern

Miami

26

Whirlwind

German Frers 50

Benjamin Riddle & Joseph Richardson

USA

Southern

Miami

27

TBA

Outremer 49

Francis Compton

USA

Southern

Miami

Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013 • 29


Long Distance Cruising Seminar “We really enjoyed the seminar, and it reinforced our interest and

The weekend gave Blue Planet Odyssey participants their first

desire to be part of the Blue Planet Odyssey. We are thrilled to be

opportunity to meet each other, and the seed was sown for great

a part of the group.”

friendships to come. It was also a chance for less experienced

Rob and Carol Harvey

sailors to be inspired by those having considerable sea miles under their belt.

“Outstanding speakers – superbly qualified, great information and

The 22-23 March seminar will take place at the Cruising

clear presentations.”

Association headquarters in Limehouse Basin, London, with an

Jeff Posner

impressive range of speakers to match the calibre and expertise of the October seminar. Jimmy Cornell’s detailed presentations

Following on from the success of the Long Distance Cruising

on voyage planning and preparation will be complemented

Seminar in October 2013 at the MITAGS maritime centre at

by talks on medical emergencies, weather, communications,

Linthicum, Maryland, a similar event is to be held in London on

downwind sails, cruising couples, and much more.

the weekend of 22 - 23 March 2014. We are pleased to announce that the London seminar will be supported by Le Grand Large Yachting who have been supporters of the Blue Planet Odyssey and Atlantic Odyssey from their inception. Although the seminars are organised as part of the Blue Planet Odyssey programme (each crew is entitled to a free seminar as part of their entry fee), any sailor who is interested may book a place. Of those attending the October seminar, more than half were participants in the Blue Planet Odyssey, representing some 12 boats and nearly all of the North American entries. A packed program of talks filled the two days, ranging from specialist weather information from Lee Chesneau to a hands-on medical session with Dr Laura Sudarsky and Dr Hakan Usal. Jimmy Cornell covered voyage planning in depth, and all aspects of

How to join the seminar

the cruising life were covered from anchoring techniques by

If you would like to book a place, contact

Evans Starzinger to offshore communications by Steve Bowden.

seminar@cornellsailing.com

Richard Hudson painted a vivid picture of high latitudes sailing,

More information and a detailed seminar programme

Beth Leonard gave a revealing insight into how to cruise as

can be found on www.cornellsailing.com

a couple, complemented by Doina Cornell and Pam Wall’s colourful portrait of the ups and downs of cruising as a family. 30 • Blue Planet LOG • Issue 3 • December 2013

The March 2014 Long Distance Cruising Seminar is sponsored by


Blue Planet Log

Editor Jimmy Cornell Managing Editor Doina Cornell Subeditor Gwenda Cornell Graphic Artist Joerg Baginski Maps Mark Silver Contributors Jimmy Cornell, Pascal Guiraudou, Rick Lumpkin, Diana Doyle, Kathy Parsons, Doina Cornell Photographs Pascal Guiraudou (cover, 4-9), Jean Luc Gourmelen (5), NOAA (10-11), Sergiy N (18), Ville de Cherbourg, Port Lorient, Marina Coruña (19), Europhotos (21), jjcopland (21), Diana Doyle, Mark Doyle, Tom Wadlow (22-23), Ellen Sanpere, Kathy Parsons, Alex Blackwell (24-27), Doina Cornell, Kerry Ash, Denise Beck (28-30), Jimmy Cornell (all others)

© Cornell Sailing Events Ltd. 8 Silver Street, Dursley GL11 4ND, United Kingdom Tel. +44 1453 543872

European Odyssey www.europeanodyssey.org info@europeanodyssey.org www.facebook.com/europeanodyssey

Blue Planet Odyssey www.blueplanetodyssey.com info@blueplanetodyssey.com www.facebook.com/BluePlanetOdyssey Follow us on Twitter @sailtheodyssey

Cornell Sailing www.cornellsailing.com info@cornellsailing.com

Atlantic Odyssey www.atlanticodyssey.org info@atlanticodyssey.org www.facebook.com/CornellsAtlanticOdyssey www.facebook.com/pages/Rallye-Atlantic-Odyssey

Seminars seminar@cornellsailing.com Printed by Girzig+Gottschalk GmbH Hannoversche Str. 64 28309 Bremen Germany

Subscribe to the Blue Planet Log

If you’ve enjoyed reading the Blue Planet Log and would like to support our events, you can now subscribe to future issues. Subscription rates are $100 (£65/€75) for which you will receive the quarterly Blue Planet Log from 2014 to 2017. Send an email to info@blueplanetodyssey.com for information on how to subscribe. Note For Blue Planet Odyssey participants the Blue Planet Log is included in the entry fees. Atlantic Odyssey participants will receive those issues which cover their event.


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Blue Planet Log Issue 3  

The Blue Planet Odyssey is a round the world sailing event aiming to raise awareness of the global effects of climate change. The event is s...

Blue Planet Log Issue 3  

The Blue Planet Odyssey is a round the world sailing event aiming to raise awareness of the global effects of climate change. The event is s...

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