The New Glorious American Food

Page 161

Jambalaya SHRIMP JAMBALAYA

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ORANGE AMBROSIA AND PRALINES

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Abita Amber Beer, LA

Jambalaya is as famous a Creole-Cajun dish as gumbo. Howard Mitcham, who wrote a wonderful entertaining book entitled Creole Gumbo and All That Jazz, suggests that the word “jambalaya is probably derived from ‘jambon,’ which means ham in both Spanish and French. The ‘a-la-ya’ is probably an African expletive, which can be interpreted as either acclaim or derision.� Though the tendency is to include a mess of spices, sausages, ham, and tasso, as well as okra, I prefer this simple version which plays up the shrimp. Rice is traditionally incorporated and cooked into the jambalaya. I like it served on the side.

SHRIMP JAMBALAYA

INGREDIENTS 1/ 4 pound unsalted butter 1 medium yellow onion, minced 4 medium cloves garlic, minced 1 cup celery, very thinly sliced 3 green or red bell peppers, seeded, deveined, and cut into long julienne 4 to 5 semi-hot frying peppers, seeded, deveined, and cut into long julienne 3 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped 2 pounds medium shrimp, peeled with tails intact 1 cup Fish Stock (see Basics, page 333), or shrimp stock Salt and cayenne pepper METHOD In a large skillet, melt the butter over moderate heat. Wilt the onions in the butter. Add the garlic and all of the vegetables and simmer over low heat. When the vegetables are still slightly crisp, add the shrimp and the stock.

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DEEP SOUTH

Bring to a simmer, season to taste, cover, and cook for approximately 5 minutes, until the shrimp are just cooked through. Do not overcook the shrimp. Serve with boiled white rice. Serves 6


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