INTERVIEWS WITH CEOS AND DESIGNERS OF SAMSUNG GEAR S3, TODD&MARLON, MONDAINE, HOF WATCHES, KLOKERS AND A SPECIAL INTERVIEW WITH
LIAM JACOBI of BLACKCARD GALLERY FEATURING WATCHES BY SASTEK | TACS | TPDD & MARLON | DON KYLNE CHAPLIN | MONDAINE | WILLIS JUDD | HOF | KLOKERS | CITIZEN L" MONTBLANC | OMEGA | ROLEX
ith the end of the year approaching quickly, the Holidays are also in sight. And what better gift to get than a watch?
We put together a list of the coolest watches to get and to give for this season. One thing is for sure when looking at this issue of Watchisthis?! Magazine, creativity runs wild! If it’s not for innovative new watches like SAStek’s Time Speed Indicator and TAC’s Vintage Lens, it is Yvan Arpa’s design for the new Samsung Gear S3. We also talk with Vincenzo Carrara, who re-invented luxury with his brand Todd &amp; Marlon. All together this issue seems to be a fitting tribute to what has been an incredible watch year. For now, I wish you on behalf of the entire Watchisthis?! Team Happy Holidays and an amazing start of 2017!
Get 10% OFF using code SMT17
M E N ' S 6 THE CRADLE: SASTEK, Time Speed Indicator
8 TACS Automatic Vintage Lens 10 Interview: YVAN ARPA, Designer Samsung S3 14 SAMSUNG Gear S3
16 Interview VINCENZO CARRARA Todd & Marlon 20 TODD & MARLON #YOURTIME: Reinventing Luxury 22 DON KYLNE CHAPLIN: Classic Quality 24 Interview: ANDRE BERNHEIM Mondaine CEO 28 MONDAINE STOP2GO: The Perfect Swiss Railway Watch 30 FARER ENDURANCE: British Design meets Swiss Watchmaking
32 CHRISTMAS WISHES FROM OUR CEOS 40 WILLIS JUDD: Bold & Beautiful 42 LIAM JACOBI: BlackCard Gallery 48 ARTHUR OSKAR STAMPFLI 50 Interview: DAMIEN KOCH: HOF Watches 54 HOF SEASHORE: Equally at home on sea or at shore 58 The 25 BEST AFFORDABLE WATCHES for under the tree
CHRISTMAS WISHES FROM OUR CEOS 32
TENTS 68 Interview: NICOLAS BOUTHERIN, President and Artistic Director of Klokers
74 KLOKERS: Affordable Creativity
L A D I E S 76 CITIZEN L: Circle of Time, Practical Beauty 78 THE LOOK: CHRISTMAS 80 RECIPE: PUMPKIN SQUARES 82 MONTBLANC TRADITION DATE: Timeless style in a classic wrapping 84 THE LOOK: NEW YEAR
86 5 WATCHES WE WANT FOR CHRISTMAS
V I N T A G E 88 OMEGA Seamaster Professional: The Affordable Bond-watch 90 COLUMN BY DALE VITO BOOM
92 ROLEX OYSTERDATE PRECISION
M I S C 96 AFTERTHOUGHTS 98 CREDITS
ecause micro brands rarely have a heritage, they enjoy incredible artistic freedom, especially when they havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t made any watches
brands really seize that freedom to do something completely new, like SAStek with its Time Speed Indicator. Inspired by the world of jet planes, the Time Speed Indicator features a unique way of displaying the time. The seconds indicator is placed at the center of the dial, and shaped like the
Time Speed Indicator
spiral symbol commonly found on jet engines to give a visual indication that the engine is running. For the Time Speed Indicator it does the same, but then in regards to the movement.
A window in the center of the dial tells the hours, and a hand going around the center of the dial tells the minutes. It gives the watch a bit of the look of the instruments usually found in jet planes. This not only gives the watch a very cool and unusual look, but also makes it very functional.
When wearing it I often relied solely on the window in the center. The quarter indices between the hour gave enough indication what the time should be more or less, making it function like a single hand watch. If I needed the time down to the exact minute, I glanced at the arrow shaped hand going around the center.
Micro brands have really increased in quality, and this SAStek is an excellent example of this. The fit and finish of all components rivals that of established, Swiss brands, yet with a more unique feel in the artistic department. Also details like the mask of a fighter pilot engraved on the caseback are examples of this. The watch we photographed is a prototype, so more refinements are to be expected in the actual production model. The launch is expected early next year. Keep an eye on www.watchisthis.com for exact details on this, and when they become available. WWW.SASTEKWATCHES.COM
TACS AUTOMATIC VINTAGE LENS
ow fun can a watch be? A lot of fun according to TACS. This young brand has just created a watch shaped like a camera lens.
Dual sapphire crystals not only give the fisheye effect, but also show the inner workings of the watch behind where the shutter normally would be.
The case is a bold 47mm in diameter and features a matte gold plating. The large case is used to the watchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s advantage by adding wood to the front of the case, as was often seen on actual vintage Designer Yoshiaki Motegi did an excellent job cameras, and a very nice glass back on the other translating that feel of a vintage, analog photo side. This also gives a clear view of the skeletonized Miyota 82S0, which is gold plated to perfectly camera into a watch. match the case.
It takes some time to realize that the Automatic Vintage Lens is in fact a very asymmetrical design. Because vintage photo cameras have always been like that, I guess we are already somewhat used to it, so on the watch it just feels natural. These cameras often came with a nice leather case that would take on a nice patina as the camera and its case ages. TACS also gets this feel into the Automatic Vintage Lens by using leather straps from the renowned Chicago-based tannery Horween. WWW.TACS-IMAGE.COM/EN/
YVAN ARPA Designer Samsung S3
amsung recently shocked the watch world not only with the introduction of the new Samsung S3, but also that it was designed in collaboration with reknowned Swiss watch designer Yvan Arpa. Watchisthis?! talked with Arpa about this unique partnership.
What was the most special moment; To start the collaboration with Samsung or to present the finished product in Berlin during the IFA?
Honestly the IFA launch was a fantastic event, we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do such shows in the watch world it costs millions and is followed by millions of fans around the world. It is the concretization of a lot of efforts and work for a fabulous product that was rated very highly and already won 3 prizes You work closely with the Samsung team but also with Arik Levy, artist and industrial designer based in Paris, who had the task of designing the dials and straps. How was your collaboration? In such big projects it is always about humans first and I must say that I have now some very new close friends 10
Being Crazy is not enough and all those people pretending to be sane and judging each other are just so boring. What was your inspiration source when you started the design of this smartwatch?
I wanted this smartwatch to look like a high end swiss watch without making too many compromises regarding technology issues that had to follow the design, the tactile experience was an important source of inspiration and I organized special workshop about this very important point that too many people forget.
You are well known for your crazy work in traditional watchmaking; Was it easy for you to jump on the wagon of connected watches or have you had initially some difficulties?
The word crazy is inapropriate, just because one is creative innovative, avant gardiste and refuses to follow the crowd people are afraid and call him crazyÂ ? Being Crazy is not enough and all those people pretending to be Sane and judging each other are just so Boring.
It is because my work with ArtyA or all other Companies I designed for, is so creative, different, innovative that Samsung wanted me to work with them. They are very open minded and they understand incredibly well where the future trends are. So it was easy to work with this type of mentality
ArtyA is a creative innovative brand 100 % owned by myself, if I feel interesting to propose an alternative to my work for Samsung I may do it if it pleases me.
Of course so many people are so arrogant in our industry doing the same watches over and over again and looking down at creative independant Companies, then copying them, now some new very powerful players are coming with a real different offer : « smartwatches » and still somany people look down at them, but a we better open our mind and I had a lot of freedom and if you look what I did I did try to understand the futre trends in order to work in create a lot of works not only for ArtyA even if ArtyA those directions otherwise many will disapear for sure is of course my favourite Create alchemy between traditional watchmaking and the new trend of connected watches, falls like a form of art. As we all know, you create only works of Art for your brand Artya... How did you think the design of the Gear S3? The guidelines were strict and clear or did you had full freedom?
For you, what clever design tricks make this smartwatch completely different from the other that we can see?
Is it unthinkable to see one day an Artya Connected?
ArtyA is a creative innovative Brand 100 % owned by myself, if I feel interesting to propose an alternative to So many but I won’t give them out for free, this is 30 my work for Samsung I may do it if it pleases me years of experience and it has value Do you believe that this new design approach could give to the S3 the edge over its competitors in the smartwatches market?
After about twenty years of experience and madness in the watch industry and this new challenge with Samsung, do you still have any dreams or things you’d like to accomplish in this sector?
I am convinced it will this smartwatch is just so much above all other competitors not only from a design and Again Madness, crazy etcc I repeat it is much more finshing point of view but as well for all the incredible crazy or mad to keep your eyes closed and think that copying the past with boring designs is a must have features it offers when a revolution is shaking our industry. Do you think the Swiss watchmaking players totally underestimated the demand about smartwatches and that they really should consider to dive into right now? Also you think
Of course I still have thousands of projects in my mind that I want to accomplish and that If God wants I will propably make
that this new market will shake more than today the Swiss watch industry in the coming years?
SAMSUNG GEAR S3
he question is quite simple: does the new Gear S3 put Samsung’s wearable tech ahead of the Apple Watch? I’ll not answer this question because I prefer that you do your own idea.
The Samsung Gear S3 was one of the much-awaited wearable devices of the year. And then, it’s not one smartwatch that was presented but two. Named Frontier and Classic these two pieces were designed by Yvan Arpa in collaboration with the Samsung team. If you are a watch enthusiast, you should know his name by now. The mastermind behind these smartwatches is one of the actual Swiss genius. Well,
« Genius » is a pompous word ... let’s simply say that he has an almost unbeatable creative mind. The Gear S3 Frontier is designed to be the sporty version, while the Classic thanks to its aesthetic is intended to evoke a more traditional watch. Samsung Gear S3 is a product that takes after the heart of artisan watchmakers and their highly detailed craft while expanding further with the latest in digital technology. We can say that it’s a watch that is cutting edge, yet traditional at the same time. With Arpa’s help, Samsung was able to create a device that marries traditional professionalism and digital innovation. This is true for both versions of this new smartwatch. The Gear S3 Frontier, a rugged wearable that can withstand nature’s elements, and the Gear S3 Classic, a luxurious digital timepiece. Talking about the design affair, it looks that the large watch face was inspired by styles emerging from the world’s most premium watch brands. Sure we have some difference in the design but the two versions also differ in weight. Indeed the Frontier is coming at 62g while the Classic only weight 57g. Of course, this is mainly due to the slight differences in the design of the stainless steel cases with the Frontier containing additional metal in the sides and around the buttons. Then, the “Always On” Super AMOLED display
Taking a closer look at each, the Gear S3 Classic features a polished outer case and “classic” style. It is larger than its predecessor, the S2, measuring 46mm, and both S3 models have a 380mAh improved battery life, which Samsung says could last up to four days on a single charge without the “Always On” display.
Inside both Gear S3 there is a Dual Core 1.0GHz processor, with 4GB of internal storage for apps and media, supported by 768MB RAM. That sounds nice for people who are going to use it in all its possibilities. Both watches run on a Tizen operating system, enabling wearers to choose from over 10,000 apps, and stream music, even when away from their phone. Definitely Samsung with the help of Yvan Arpa succeeded in producing a smartwatch with a timeless design, which has materials and a mixture of brushed and polished surfaces finishes that are both inviting to the eye and to the touch. But more than that with this new smartwatch you have all the utilities and information you need and the whole packed in a stylish case. So if you’re looking for a smartwatch it is difficult to go wrong with the Samsung Gear S3.
Compared to the Frontier, the Gear S3 Classic only features Bluetooth connectivity, while the Frontier is equipped with Bluetooth, GPS, and LTE, enabling the wearer to make calls directly from their wrist. Both models have IP68 rating, meaning they can be worn under water or better say, 30 minutes at a depth of 1.5 meters (only under the shower to be honest) and are also dustproof. The Frontier also features an SOS signal for the most adventurous guys who might be caught in an inhospitable region with only their Gear S3 Frontier on the wrist. The Samsung Gear S3 also connects via WiFi, Bluetooth, has an accelerometer, a barometric pressure sensor, GPS, proximity sensor for your hand, ambient light sensor, and heart rate monitor, along with NFC and MST for the Samsung Pay; this means that you can scan your credit card data and pay with it. Great thing is that you can pay not only at some special NFC payment terminals but at any terminals that have magnetic strip readers. Far from the phone but close to the wrist, Samsung allows you to do a lot of things with the Samsung Gear S3 without the phone, things like predicting the weather, or also sending an emergency signal via SMS to one of your preset contacts, including your GPS location, and even data connection.
is increased compared to the Gear S2 to 1.3in for the S3 (up from 1.2in on the S2) and is indeed super clear. “Always On” means that the screen never goes totally black; you can disable this display in order to increase the battery life. With its 16 million colors and 360 by 360 pixel resolution this Gear S3 has an impressive brightness. Note that the increased size meant probably that more information could be displayed on the screen, which is particularly handy for messaging and email.
INTERVIEW VINCENZO CARRARA TODD & MARLON
atchisthis?! recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Vincenzo Carrara, CEO of Todd & Marlon. This New York based watch brand has a different way of looking at watches, creating a whole new look, and a new way of looking at luxury. You recently founded Todd & Marlon: what made you want to enter the already overcrowded marketplace that the watch world is?
They say business should not be personal. In our case, business is very personal. In fall 2014, one of my sons, at that time 4 years old, asked for a watch as a Christmas gift. I was surprised by the request so decided to offer him my very first watch. I got my Barracuda fixed and I was looking forward to Christmas excited to offer my son his first watch.
I was expecting the same level of excitement from my son but, unfortunately, this has not been the case. He did open the box and as soon as he saw the watch, he told me â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dad. This is not my watch. This is yours! I want my own watchâ&#x20AC;?. He wanted his own watch indeed and I had to design and manufacture watches for him and his brother. In other words, it has not been a matter of creating an easy to thrive business but about offering love and legacy to my kids.
Todd & Marlon is our “personal business” and as such, it brings in the names of my kids. Their contribution is actually much bigger. Both had a say on the overall aesthetic of the watches as well as on other details like the logo and choice of the boxes. Many of their inputs have been already implemented, a few more might materialize soon and as they grow they will further shape the future of the brand.
We are here to say something and we say it with our watches. Each color represents a different style or character from the most mysterious black dial to the deep blue, fiery red and sophisticated pink ones.
Can you tell us something more about the name of your brand?
The double-XII dial is more intuitive to use than a classic 24-hour one and it is also more original considering that we are the only brand readily available in the market with this offer. A key feature of any Todd & Marlon is that deep, velvety dial color. How did you achieve this?
The deep and bold colors are a feature I was very keen on achieving on Todd & Marlon dials. Many watches in the market are designed to be appealing to the crowds and for this reason, they use pale or classic colors. Conversely, we wanted to make statement watches. We are here to say something
Not many brands have a 24-hour dial (or double 12 in your case) in their collection, especially not as one of their first watches. What made you go this route?
Todd & Marlon watches were originally meant for my kids and as such I wanted them to be easy to read and understand. I’m also passionate about “time management” and believe that being able to see the whole day at a glance helps better managing the day. For this reason, we built the first collection around a Swiss Made 24-hour movement and only after we extended the collection with a more traditional Swiss Made automatic 12-hour watch.
and we say it with our watches. Each color represents a different style or character from the most mysterious black dial to the deep blue, fiery red and sophisticated pink ones. 17
Todd & Marlon watches are about effortless elegance so we decided to find inspiration and partner with one of the masters, the KING OF COOL Dean Martin. The real challenge on achieving those shades consisted on combining a deep color with a brushed dial. Deep and dark pigments tend to cover the brushing and if you want the brushing to come through then you might need to go for pale colors. We tried many different pigments and manufacturers. The most challenging color was surprisingly the red.
The watches also feature a black DLC coated case and bracelet, which is especially in relation to the dials a unique combination. How did the design process behind this take place?
Black is always on trend but in the watch industry an entire black watch is still only for few. Only few people, in fact, dare to wear totally black watches. This is in part due to historical reasons, trends, but especially to the fact that most black watches tend to lose color over time. With the first Todd & Marlon collection we wanted to offer a watch that can stand the test of time and we wanted prove it in a visible way. For this reason, we dared to use black and use the best coating technique, Diamond-Like-Carbon, to achieve a long lasting color. We also wanted a watch that can be used both in sport, casual situations as well as for more upscale events and a black watch with a sporty design and statement color dials can be the perfect match. Your designs have recently been honored with an A’Design Award. How important is this recognition for the brand itself, but also for the customers?
The A’ Design Award is the worlds’ largest design competition awarding the best designs, design concepts and products & services. We humbly and proudly received this award in the Jewelry, Eyewear, and Watch Design Award Category in 2016 for the This color easily turns into fuchsia or orange depending collection #YOURTIME 24-hour. This achievement is on how the light hits the brushing on the dial. a recognition of the great work we have been doing and After many trials, however, we have been finally able to it is more an incentive for us of doing more and better find the perfect shades and best balance between color rather than an award to exploit with consumers. In and brushing effect. fact, only a few design and industry experts are familiar with the award and practically none of our customers is 18 familiar with it.
MEN'S You are still a young brand: what are your plans for the future?
Todd & Marlon is a “personal business” and as such we are not looking for a fast growth. We just want to Todd & Marlon watches are about effortless elegance build slowly over time a brand that stands for effortless so we decided to find inspiration and partner with one elegance, a brand that reinterprets the elegance of the of the masters, the KING OF COOL Dean Martin. past in a modern way. The Exclusive Edition that we have developed is a We want to bring back to life the good legacy of the modern reinterpretation of the artist’s unique and past and we want to do that while helping others. In transcendent style and it has been designed to be the fact, Todd & Marlon donates part of the revenue to the perfect companion for the contemporary dapper. The not-for-profit organization SparkMicrogrants to help design evokes some of Dean’s passions: the treatment entrepreneurs in rural areas. of the watch case is inspired by the silver brushed and shiny metal of a classic microphone, the strap made of In the future you might expect more partnerships and black leather is reminiscent of the interiors of the 1962 collaborations as well as even more exciting collections Ghia L6.4 custom made for Dean Martin, the hands and maybe some other luxury essentials to complement bring to life a touch of red to pay homage to the pocket our watches. square used by Dean, finally a transparent caseback boasts a special insignia of Dean Martin and reveals a rotor engraved his nickname “KING OF COOL” to commemorate his seemingly effortless charisma and self-assurance. In order to further build on Dean Martin collaboration and strengthen the brand positioning, we have also partnered with the group of singers THE SUMMIT. Those guys similar to us reinterpret the romance and effortless elegance of the past and they are the perfect fit for our new communication campaign that should come to life by the end of this calendar year.
You worked with the Dean Martin Family Trust to create an exclusive edition around this legendary entertainer. Why Dean Martin, and how does he link with Todd & Marlon?
TODD & MARLON #YOURTIME: REINVENTING LUXURY
atches are by all means a luxury product, but what defines a luxury product? New York based brand Todd & Marlon has a new take on this, and it’s a refreshing one. They mix your classic dress watch with a sports watch, bake it with some urban elements, and the result is a contemporary watch that is nothing specific, yet everything at once.
Scents smell different on each and every individual, so unless they are heavenly floral, or overly musky, they can actually suit both genders. The same can be said of watches and Todd & Marlon is really one of the first brands that really goes in this direction. The case of their watches is 38 mm, small by modern standards, but quite frankly a perfect size for both genders as an everyday watch. The urban touch comes from the black diamond like carbon (DLC) coating that Todd & Marlon applies on both the case and the bracelet of all their #YOURTIME models. The result is a very unique look, and because the DLC coating is matte it draws all the attention to the dial. This is not completely fair, since the case is more than worthy of a second look, and not to forget the bracelet, where the links resemble the shield in Todd & Marlon’s logo.
The #YOURTIME comes in two different versions: an automatic with a regular 12-hour dial and a quartz The fact that the Todd & Marlon watches are everything model that shows the complete 24 hours. This is a fairly at once, also means that they are unisex. In the watch unique way of telling time, but one you get used to quite world this is a topic that has yet to be fully discovered quickly and is actually very practical. This is also the and appreciated, yet in the world of perfumes it is a very version that earned Todd & Marlon the silver medal at the coveted 2016 A’Design contest. common concept.
The dials on all #YOURTIME models are unlike any other. They have a deep velvet kind of look, thanks to the brushed texture of the dial. In black the #YOURTIME stands out due to red details on the dial and the hands filled with red luminova. Things get even more interesting when you opt for the red, blue, or pink dial. Combined with the black case and bracelet, these colors create a watch unlike any other. They have an urban luxury feel to them, a watch you want to wear when you move to a big city to follow your dreams, or treat yourself once you made it where you want to be. Recently the brand also launched an official Dean Martin exclusive edition. Why would a young brand like Todd & Marlon align themselves with a legendary entertainer, yet one that is unfortunately not around anymore? Because Martin was a trailblazer, and a very stylish one. Extremely versatile, very talented and always well dressed, he possessed the kind of flair that seems to have been fleeting lately, yet is still there. Todd & Marlon captured it, bottled it in a contemporary version that you can wear on your wrist. All you need to do is strap it on, dress for success, go out and capture #YOURTIME! ď&#x201A;žWWW.TODDANDMARLON.COM 21
DON KYLNE CHAPLIN:
year ago, Don Kylne launched its very first watch on Kickstarter, the Chaplin. It was a great success, and the watch is currently sold through the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s website. Why it became such a great success is actually quite easy to explain when you hold one of their watches in your hand.
First of all, the Chaplin features a classic design, one that brings you back to the very early years of the wrist watch. The cushion case gives the watch a certain elegance, and Don Kylne had no problem adding details to put even more focus on this. The thin lugs feature large, fully functional screws that hold the strap. Perhaps an even more unique detail is that the side of the case is engraved with a paisley motive. A clever move, because it doesn’t really stand out when you see the watch on somebody else’s wrist, but when you glance at the time when it is on your own wrist, you notice it immediately. For people around you, the dial probably draws the most attention. Although also available in silver, the black dial on this Chaplin turns out to be a very nice canvas for the Arabic numerals. Because they are quite large, the dial is a bit busy, but given the fact that the numerals are so beautifully shaped, that is actually a good thing. The hands have a unique elegance to them, and fit right in with the small sub seconds dial, which is placed just off center at 5 o’clock. The reason for this is that the Chaplin runs on Miyota 8245, an automatic movement made by Citizen. This nicely decorated movement can be seen through the sapphire crystal at the back of the watch. About the back: this is one of the places where you can see the care that went into constructing the Chaplin. Not only is the back curved, it is also secured with four screws and features pretty tight tolerances. Another small detail that screams quality is the crown. It is pleasantly small, making the Chaplin even more comfortable to wear, but how about winding and setting the watch? Usually a small crown is not favorable for that, but by putting a small metal rope as a detail on the crown, you have a lot of friction making operating it, actually a breeze. It is also a testimony of the time, effort, and care that went into developing this watch, a fact that its backers and all future owners will probably really appreciate! WWW.DONKYLNE.COM
ANDRE BERNHEIM MONDAINE CEO
atchisthis?! had the opportunity to sit down with Andre Bernheim, CEO of Mondaine, and ask him a couple of questions about the watch brand that is best known from their famous Swiss Railroad watch.
We only varied the sizes, case designs, shapes of cases and bands, etc., but the iconic design of the dial and 1. Mondaine has been able throughout its history hands remained unchanged, and made its way through to develop a wide array of different watches, yet to many design oriented museums worldwide, like always with a very recognizable look. How do you MOMA, Guggenheim, and many more. For the retailer go about this when designing a new product? it means: a steady value, not depreciating as it is classic, Thank you for the compliment! Let me explain with which after the fashion era became a new trend. And the example of Mondaine Helvetica. For 25 years, we it is so recognizable, modern, and timeless, that even devoted all our efforts around the iconic Swiss railways Apple copied the design in their iOS6, which does not station clock design, for which we got the license in surprise us as they are living the same design language 1986. It is probably one of the only designs that has not as Mondaine does with its products. changed a bit since it was designed by Hans Hilfiker After 25 years of focusing on this design only, we for the Swiss Federal Railways in 1944. We took it were looking for a second family under the Mondaine from the station, to the wrist, and out to the world to brand roof. It had to be iconic, a typical Swiss design almost 50 countries. We were ahead of our time when achievement from the industrial area, not the cliché of we started with this design; it was considered too clean, Switzerland. We formed a group of non-watch people purist, straight, and not fancy enough. Only starting in for a full day brainstorming and the outcome was: the 90’s, modern design in architects like Mario Botta, Helvetica®. as well as car design and Apple, changed people’s view and our watches became trendy. Then came the era of The most used font, a font created in 1957 and still as fashion and fast changing designs where styles are out important to many world-leading brands, their logos of fashion the moment new products hit the retail and house fonts, as it always was. In NYC, the entire level—but Mondaine Swiss Railway watches remained. subway system and maps were done in Helvetica, and still are today.
2. What about Mondaine are you most proud of?
We are very proud that we were able to create two iconic Swiss designs and transform them into unique, classic, and timeless wristwatches, giving a piece of Switzerland to people around the globe, at a very affordable price point. One of our Swiss railways watches we are particularly proud of is our stop2go watch, which is the same as all station clocks in Switzerland since 1944. The second hand runs fast for 58.5 seconds, then the second hand stops for 1.5 seconds before the minute hands advances one minute and the second hand starts it’s way again. Probably the only watch in the world which is meant to stop, every minute, and still be accurate – and gives the consumer 1.5 seconds of rest, a symbol of ‘slow down’ in our hectic life.
The second hand runs fast for 58.5 seconds, then the second hand stops for 1.5 seconds before the minute hands advances one minute and the second hand starts it’s way again. Probably the only watch in the world which is meant to stop, every minute, and still be accurate – and gives the consumer 1.5 seconds of rest, a symbol of ‘slow down’ in our hectic life.
You cannot avoid Helvetica anywhere; it is a Swiss icon as the Latin word Helvetica = Swiss demonstrates. What can be more Swiss than Swiss? We then had a very talented designer create a 3-dimensional design out of a 2-dimensional font, quite a challenge. But we succeeded; our Mondaine Helvetica launched in fall 2014 as our second iconic member of the Mondaine brand. The ‘hidden’ number 1 is a true icon of the Helvetica font and forms the shape of the lugs, and the logo block on the dial is left aligned to the center – which makes this design highly recognizable.The recognition is similar to the Swiss Railways watch, especially to all design oriented people, architects, designers, photographers, typographers, etc.
3. In the Mondaine collection, there is a wide variety of different movements. Do you see a clear preference for particular watches in the different customer demographics?
We actually do not use so many different movements. Of course all our watches are Swiss Made in our own state-of-the-art factory (newly built in 2009), using Swiss movements. We use mainly quartz movements with 3hands, with and without date, but also some automatic and even hand winding movements, which demonstrate our vast experience in excellence in watch making, at affordable price levels. Our hero certainly is the stop2go movement which we developed exclusively during a period of 4 years and launched in 2012. 4. You were one of the first Swiss brands to embrace the Smart Watch wholeheartedly. How do you see the future of smart watches, in particular in relation to Swiss watches?
Yes, this is correct. We first heard about this new development in February 2015 and 6 weeks later we showed our product as a computer rendering at a press conference jointly with Frederique Constant in San Francisco. In another 6 weeks, we were able to show first working prototypes at the world’s biggest watch fair in Basel. Only 3 months later, we started shipping 25
MEN'S our Mondaine Helvetica Smart to the markets – a development period of less than 6 months probably can be considered a world record. For us, the connected watches are additional features to a watch, same as functions like a chronograph, alarm, etc. A watch can do certain things better than any mobile phone, and that’s what a connected watch should do – not try to duplicate what a mobile phone can do better. Sleep tracking, activity tracking, changing time when changing time periods, etc. are functions that perfectly demonstrate this strategy. And more functions will follow soon. We do believe that connected watches will play a role in our lives, but this does not mean that every watch needs additional functions, many people just want to have a great piece of design on their wrist which does what it means to do: show the time, your personality, or your mood. This year in February, we were again amongst the first to launch a novelty: contactless payment on your wrist. No need to search for your credit card in your wallet, or even to carry your wallet with you – your credit card is always with you. We developed and patented a system, called PayChip, where the miniature card can be slid into a specially developed pocket inside the leather or rubber strap. Once you want to use a different watch during the day you simply slide the Paychip out of your strap and slide it into a special loop, which can fit to most of bands, even if from another brand. This we call total flexibility, independence, convenience, and innovation. And the future options of what to load onto these Paychips are endless – let us surprise you in the coming years. 5. Throughout its history Mondaine has always been quite affordable. How important is this for the brand, and how do you balance a relatively low price with a high, Swiss made quality?
need and deliver within 3-4 weeks after receiving their firm orders. We really can give distributors the models they need and can sell, keeping their stock relatively low as they can get fast replenishment from us again. A win-win for both sides, and efficient, too. 6. Currently the watch industry as a whole, and the Swiss especially, seems to be going through a rough patch. What does Mondaine do to stay current and competitive?
Oh yes, we hear it every day here in Switzerland. It is more than just an economic crisis in some areas of the world, it is also a currency issue in various countries, a fear of terrorism that slows down tourism and with it, sales in those touristic areas like Paris etc., but we need to be aware that there is a change in consumer habits and behavior, too. The way people spend money, and where they do their purchases. At Mondaine, we stay true to our brand, don’t try to be all over the place, neither with our collection, nor distribution. We keep close relationship with our partners, supporting them as best we can through professionalism, efficiency, focus, sympathy, and smartness combined with shown proof that we can maintain our business as an independent small enterprise. Our family run business is very open minded to new ideas, fast in the implementation and reaction (see Smart watch development), and not too proud should we see that we need some outside consultants to freshen up our point of view or development (see how we ‘found’ Helvetica). But no doubt, times are tough, also for us, even though we seem to be able to sell nearly as much as our record year 2015.
This is correct, and always was the philosophy of our father, the founder of Mondaine: build affordable Swiss watches at the highest quality possible. Mondaine products are not cheap watches, but affordable, starting point below $200 with top range of $1,000 – very affordable for a Swiss brand with international recognition and worldwide after sales service. Of course, it is not easy to reach this price point, creativity in construction, strong and long lasting relationship with suppliers, efficient work flow, and production lines are of essence. For example, we won the logistic price for most efficient assembly in our factory, we are We are very confident that the timeless concept of the producing ‘just in time’, meaning we don’t produce Mondaine brand, particularly in these difficult times, on stock and sell what we have like most other is a great value to the retailers and consumers. In Swiss brands, but we produce what our distributors 26
turbulent times, people do appreciate and trust in familiar values. Functionality certainly plays an important role in our watches. The watches are all very easy to read and this very essential fact may have been forgotten a little in the fashion decade and now with digital smart watches with tons of functions. 7. What is in store regarding new models for Mondaine?
We stick to our concept and core values and follow the timeless, distinctive orientation of Mondaine. However, this does not mean that consistency is boring. Over and over again it surprises even us how big and varied the playground for new designs is. We learned to manage the balance between remaining true to the concept and core values while being innovative and surprising at the same time. Next year we will introduce new products with plated cases in surprising colors, straps produced from innovative materials and more amazing things. All of them true to the concept of simple, timeless, and Swiss.
We stick to our concept and core values and follow the timeless, distinctive orientation of Mondaine. However, this does not mean that consistency is boring.
MONDAINE STOP2GO: THE PERFECT SWISS RAILWAY WATCH
ondaine has been making watches based on the Swiss railway clock since 1986, yet with the Stop2Go they finally incorporate a unique feature of that clock into a watch. People traveling in Switzerland by train, or any of the other European countries that adopted the same system, should
have noticed it. Its seconds hand travels in 58.5 seconds to the twelve, waits, and then the minute hand clicks a minute further with the seconds hand departing again for another smooth run. This system was developed in 1944 by Swiss engineer Hans Hilfiker. He devised a system in which a time-signal traveled through telephone cables to the stations, giving the clocks a signal when to start the next minute. This allowed for very precise timekeeping, and a very tightly run railroad!
To see this in action on your wrist is mesmerizing. In fact, once the show is over, you want to see it again! Of course for this to happen the Mondaine Stop2Go relies on a unique quartz movement to create this unique effect that contains two separate motors. One operates the hour and minute hand, while the other the seconds hand. Mondaine used a 41 mm case for the Stop2Go. This is rather large, but only makes the unique complication more prominent. The watch is available in a matte steel case, with the traditional white dial, but also in one with a black IP coating. With this model, the dial is actually inverted in color. Although this is perhaps not traditional,
the Stop2Go retains its Railway watch look and is equally recognizable as a Mondaine. You operate the watch not so much by a crown, but more a switch. This is due to its unique movement. It works pretty much the same as a traditional crown, but has a slightly different feel to it. Fitted with a silicon strap, the Mondaine Stop2Go is very comfortable to wear, and because of its complication also very hard to take your eyes of ! WWW.MONDAINE.COM
FARER ENDURANCE: BRITISH DESIGN MEETS SWISS WATCH MAKING
he British are not exactly new to watchmaking: in fact, they contributed greatly to its history.
all dial, and what a dial it is! Slightly curved and decorated with a silver sunray pattern and a matte inside it entices through its contrasts. It is also full of fun details, like the railroad track that goes around the edge of the dial. The top part is in red, the bottom part in dark blue. This forms a nice match with the From John Harrison, the inventor of the marine chro- seconds hand, which is blued expect for the bright nometer, to George Daniels, watchmaker extraor- red arrow on the top. The other hands are blued as dinaire and inventor of the co-axial movement, the well, and filled in with luminova. Nice to notice is that British continue to make an impact. Not in the least all hands have the perfect length. This sounds like a in terms of design, and that is also the strong suit of given, but most brands donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get this right. Bold Arathe Farer Endurance. bic numerals are switched off with blue dashes on the The watch combines the past and the present in a dial. All this combined gives a watch that goes as easy way only the British seem to be able to design it. The with a Barbour wax coat, as it does with the latest Paul smooth case, with a diameter of 39.5 mm, is almost Smith.
Farer is pretty clear about the fact that they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t produce the watch themselves, but leave this up to their Swiss partner Roventa-Henex. They fit the Endurance for Farer with ETA caliber 2824-2, which can be admired through the sapphire case back. The movement is pretty plain in terms of decorations, but ironically enough that suits the watch just fine. Less is more, but also because even in its purest form the ETA 2824-2 is a better looker than similar movements from Seiko and Miyota.
A nice detail is the bronze crown, which forms quite a contrast with the perfectly polished steel case of the Farer. The same can be said of the blue Barenia strap that the Endurance is fitted with. The leather is nice and supple, and comes with a Farer branded buckle. This use of color makes the Endurance surprisingly modern looking, although details like the domed sapphire crystal glass try to keep a link with the past as well. The result is a timeless watch, not only in terms of design, but for sure also in terms of quality. WWW.FARER.COM 31
CHRISTMAS WISHES FROM OUR CEOS
QUESTIONS: BWhat is your favorite way of spending the holidays? CWhich watch will be on your wrist while doing it? DWhat do you wish for 2017?
B Well I have 2 … the first one is the Family trip with my kids and their friends, discovering a country with waves of course. Then the second one is the boat trip in the south part of Indonesia. 10 days on the sea with a few friends surfing virgin waves at least 6 hours a day... CMy new AM69… the most simple pure and elegant watch we have made so far… 36 mm but strong character!! Alain Marhic CEO March
D A new shop in LONDON ! And a lot of good waves… ahahhaa
B My favorite way of spending the holidays is with my family, at a large dining table, enjoying our quality time. CThe Generations Pendulum D My wish for 2017 is that Fromanteel grows even more in an international field.
Alfredo Silva CEO Fromanteel 32
CEO Holiday Question – Alexandre Strambini – CEO of Edox. BWith my family, surrounded by friends and nature. C I will be certainly carrying the new Chronorally Sauber F1 Team Limited Edition. D I wish good health and prosperous business to all of our business partners, family and friends. Alexandre Strambini Edox André Bernheim CEO Mondaine B Spending the holidays with my wife and children, exploring foreign countries, chartering a sailing boat in the Mediterranean Sea, or going scuba diving. C Usually the Mondaine Helvetica Smart, but also Mondaine SBB stop2go. D Wishing is always good, my wishes already seem like dreams: less refugees who have to leave their countries, more social security for mankind. Tolerance and accepting people for their ways. And of course health and happiness.
B Sailing is my favorite leisure activity, I love the wind and the sea, and whenever I can this is how I prefer to spend my holiday time. C Scafograf 300 of course! It is our latest model, a diving watch that was born in the late 1950’s and relaunched this year in a 300 meter waterproof version with helium escape valve. I cannot think of anything better for those who love the sea. D 2017 will be a milestone in our brand’s history, being the 130th anniversary from the Company’s foundation. I wish it will be the start of the next wonderful 130 years! Barbara Monti CEO, EBERHARD&CO
B Travel with friends and family. Normally I will organize a short getaway with family or take a short trip to meet with friends.
Calvin Ng - CEO CJR
C Prior to start my own brand, I will wear my Ikepod Megapode Chronograph Limited Edition. It is a graduation gift and it looks cool with a lot of outfit. After I started my own brand, I now wear my CJR AIRSPEED when I travel. D 2 things: Healthy mind in a healthy body & continue to grow the CJR brand by delivering good watches.
William Brody â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Co-Founder Boston & Stewill B A nice long dog walk in the (hopefully) snowy English countryside followed by a pint in my local pub and a roast dinner. Later a few more drinks by the fire as the family opens their presents and I pray for a nice new watch to add to my collection! Boston & Stewill Founders Steve Johnston (left) and Will Boddy (right)
C Most probably a new Boston & Stewill Tourer prototype. This is our latest watch, an automatic based on the Tourer II but with a simplified dial, removal of the bullhead and exposed back to show the rear workings. Hopefully, my business partner Steve will give me the green light to test it over the winter holidays! D My main wishes are to get the Tourer successfully funded. We are trying to decide on how is best to do that - either back on Kickstarter or going the private funding route. Either way we hope for a huge amount of exposure for our brand in 2017.
Christophe Hoppé, CEO Bausele Watches B Up in Lake Macquarie at the family house an hour away up north of Sydney (Australia). It’s summer at that point of the year in the Southern Hemisphere, so it will be under a beautiful sunshine and warm weather, doing laps in the lake to wake up, then a stroll down the beach with the family (Alexandra my wife, Luca and Theo my 2 kids) to have fun in the waves, building a few sand castles :) Then go back to the house, have a few gin/tonic while preparing the evening barbecue next to the lake and start it all over again the next day… C The Bausele OceanMoon II of course :) It indicates if the tide is high or low at my kids’ favorite beach called Caves Beach where you can find cool caves that are only accessible at low tide. Having the indication on my wrist is a cool feature. My kids can play hours in those caves. Like all Bausele watches, it comes with 2 straps so I will switch to the rubber band for some water action. I can always switch back super easily to the thick vintage leather if we go out at night for a drink or visit friends and want to look a bit smarter. It is a great watch that looks good from the boardroom to the surf. D Peace, health, prosperity, and love…a lot of love!
Mike France Christopher Ward B Eating, sleeping, diving, beaching, eating, sleeping etc.……. And if it can be in the Maldives, even better! C The C60 Trident Chronograph. Our most technical diving watch and, arguably, our best-looking watch, full stop. D That with the launch of the new power reserve complication, our in-house movement, Calibre SH21, receives the recognition it so undoubtedly deserves. Oh, and that Everton FC win some silverware!
CHRISTMAS B My favorite holiday happens most often in Sicily. I discovered this land now almost 9 years ago and I’ve made friends that also visit me in Paris especially for Christmas. I love the authenticity of Sicily, natural parks, sea, gastronomy, small mountain villages, its varied landscapes. Whatever the season, I always spend an excellent holiday there.
Damien Koch, CEO HOF
C A SEASHORE, it’s not very original, but this watch is so versatile that it fits all circumstances. For me it is the ideal everyday watch, of course it accompanies me throughout the year and especially during my vacation. I have a multitude of mechanical –automatic or not – watches, but I wear them less often over time. My favorite is not a wristwatch, it is Movado Ermeto with alarm. D I would love for violence to decline in 2017 and the next few years. I also hope to meet wonderful people and share passions with them. I wish to have the opportunity to spend some time with friends abroad I haven’t seen for years.
B This year unfortunately no real holidays for me, been working hard :) But I plan to go to the Maldives with the Mrs in January! C The Straton Syncro - being a mixture of a Driver-Diver Chrono it’s only fitting to take it along when I do some snorkeling on the reefs of the Maldives, or a bit of surfing. D To grow the Straton watch range and expand the business even further. I am very blessed with the way things have gone for Straton Watch Co and very excited about the future.
Kyle Schut - CEO Straton
CEO Holiday Question – Rafael Simoes Miranda (CEO & Designer at DWISS SA) B Travelling to places I have never been before and tasting their cuisine and wine (if a good wine is available in the city visited)
CEO Holiday Question – Rafael Simoes Miranda
C For sure it is a DWISS, my own brand and designs that I created myself. I’m the first one that needs to do some publicity ;) D I’m planning another Kickstarter campaign to launch a second model there, wishing to have the same success I had this year with the campaign for DWISS M2 - the most innovative automatic Swiss Watch in a crowdfunding campaign. Raphael Ickler, CEO Defakto Uhren B Holidays with my family are mainly road trip structured. Flying is not interesting to me if it is not needed e.g. by the need of traveling to another continent that cannot be reached by car. I love to see the slightly changing natural, cultural, and infrastructure surroundings of countries to cross as a whole before reaching the “goal”. The process itself is the trip - the way and the spontaneous meeting with of people, making stops here and there while being flexible is the aim and the only reason for doing these trips. C For holidays, the sun should do the job to be honest. If I wear a watch, it is the one of our one hand models such as the Defakto Mono or the Eins. They perfectly assist the spontaneous flow of letting go and deceleration. D For 2017, I wish for people of the world to think and reflect on what the future could look like in the most positive way. We have the mindset and technology at hand to make the world a better place for anyone. It is definitely the time to be brave enough to rethink our political and economic systems. The emerging danger of populist parties representing ignorant conservative programs in power would be the worst scenario imaginable and a shame for humanity.
D For next year, I would like to do more sports and enjoy my allotted time. For Mühle-Glashütte, I wish that we will be able to continue our sustainable company and growth philosophy and that our new models, which we will present at Baselworld in March, will appeal to our clients as much as they do to me.
B We celebrate the holidays in a very traditional manner in the family with the kids. Of course, the traditional German Christmas dinner dish shall not be missed – sausages with potato salad. Also, the days after the holidays are dedicated to the family and relaxation. C On Christmas Day and for the holidays, I wear the new classic Robert Mühle Zeigerdatum with our in-house manufacture movement. When it comes to shedding the extra pounds after the holidays, I enjoy donning the more sportive ProMare Chronograph.
Thilo Mühle CEO Mühle-Glashütte
B I come from Sicily and from a very traditional family hence holidays mean beach and extended family reunion, as you would see on a Sicilian movie. On the other hand, my other half is Swiss and so is one of my kids hence holidays sometimes lead us to snow, ski and mountains. This year, however, we will break the mold and spend the holidays home in New York enjoying the city atmosphere, the close family and new friends. Vincenzo Carrara, CEO Todd & Marlon
C I used to change watches often but now with our “personal business” I keep wearing Todd & Marlon watches. This year I believe I will wear #YOURTIME Lava which has the perfect hue of red for the holiday season but also the newly released Dean Martin Exclusive Edition for the more classic nights and occasions. DBeing a father, one of my main concerns if the future of my kids and as such my wish relates to that. I want my kids to grow in a place with inspiring role models and rulers able to lead fairly and in the right direction. I wish my kids dreams and desires can be shaped by people of values and I wish they can be positively inspired by the leaders of the community they are starting to interact with. I wish all the kids in this world can be followed by fair and inspirational leaders.
WILLIS JUDD BOLD & BEAUTIFUL
ant to make a bold statement that is at the same time also beautiful?
Then you might want to consider strapping on the very first watch crafted by Australian brand Willis Judd. 185 Australian Dollars buys you one of their oversized, 45 mm watches with a carbon fiber dial. Available with a steel case, or with a black or rose gold PVD coating, they will make a presence by size only. But fortunately there is much more to it. The fact that Willis Judd has been previously active in the 40
jewelry industry is clearly visible. It is a large watch, it is very affordable, yet there are plenty of details that give the watch much more depth then you normally would get from a watch at this price level. The carbon fiber dial is of course the highlight and by using grey hands and numerals, it rightfully gets center stage. The seconds hand has great detail, which has the same color as the case. That case is by the way very well crafted. Especially the lugs are nicely done with the different angles, not to forget the polishing exceeds the expectations one should have for a watch at this price level. The case back is another pleasant surprise, well decorated and it is also screws into the case. Underneath ticks Ronda Caliber 763, a Swiss made quartz movement.
The value for money is even extended by the sapphire glass crystal with AR coating that protects the face of the watch. Normally that would be it, but Willis Judd really likes to push for the impossible and even pack their watches in a nice carbon fiber case, complete with cleaning cloth and extra strap. Willis Judd likes to be bold in multiple ways! WWW.WILLISJUDDWATCHES.COM
That case is by the way very well crafted. Especially the lugs are nicely done with the different angles, not to forget the polishing exceeds the expectations one should have for a watch at this price level.
LIAM JACOBI BLACKCARD GALLERY
ixing watches with art, Liam Jacobi takes both to the next level. We talked to him about his inspiration to combine these two unique worlds.
Tell us a little bit about your background... What made you interested in art? Who were your early influencers? I was always interested in art even as a young child, my parents would tell me I was constantly drawing on things, it was clear I enjoyed it from a young age and as I got older through to the ages of 14-18 I excelled in school achieving top grades in Art & Design. My style was always considered quite graphical, with clean lines and attention to detail, I was always using bold bright colours and I think that was down to me really looking up to the styles of artists like Andy Warhol, which reflects still In my artwork and style today. There’s more and more artists who paint watches on today’s market, how do you differentiate yours from the other? In other words, what do you feel makes your work unique and truly your own? There are other artists who are making watches, however there arent too many that are creating them entirely by hand, a lot of my competition are using programmed such as photoshop. I try to create everything by hand, i dont use templates it is entirely freehand which make the piece 100% created by myself and a brush. The artists that i have come across on social media painting watches are different to me, as they are going more for a realistic style, i try to keep my watches along the lines of pop art, bold bright colours and new concepts to how a real watch should look, for example the pop art collection. When did you start painting, and especially when you did you start painting watches? Also, what inspired you ? I started painting about 2 years ago full time, i was originally just working for telesales companies after finishing my degree in Product Design, it was hard to find a job i enjoyed, i just wanted to do something with my passion, which was art and design. I started out drawing peoples pets using pencil, and peoples children etc just to make some extra cash. A friend of mine owns a Rolex 116759SARU and asked me to paint it for him onto a canvas. Once i had completed it i posted it on my instagram where @weekesandsons in amsterdam picked up my work. He ordered 10 painting commissions from me and it stemmed from there, i realised there was a great market for watch and luxury paintings. I was never really a fan of watches before this, but within a month or 2 i was addicted to them, and they have no become a huge part of my life, which i feel lucky to be surrounded by ! Its hard to picture a life now without watches and art ! Vincent Van Gogh said: “I dream my painting and I paint my dream”. Are you also in this case – You paint your dream watches ? I try to paint watches that i believe customer will want, as the paintings are time consumings its hard to guess what a customer would want, but over time through commissions from customers i have been able to paint a lot of my dream watches. 43
Why did you choose oil paints rather than acrylics as your medium? I use emulsion rather than oil, or acrylic, its a medium that a local artist called Pete McKee uses, i love the way painting with emulsion leaves a smooth flat colour, and it is also easy to mix just like other paints. If you layer emulsion it makes no difference to the colour, so it was perfect for the pop art and vibrant smooth finish i want to achieve from the paintings.
It's funny because as your company grows so does your ambitions, my first watch was the sistem51 by swatch, i loved it !! - my first rolex was a 2007 explorer 1, that was my dream watch at the time ! my second watch was the 116710BLNR, so i believe over time i am painting a lot of my dream watches because i just dream to own a huge collection , and they are so easy to fall in love with no matter the brand or cost, you always feel connected to your watch purchase ! Which artistic movement could define your work? The main one would have to be Pop Art, but you could also mix an element of surrealism in there with the colours i use for the watches. What is your creative process like? I will usually sketch a template out onto a canvas if it is a small canvas, using pencil, then fill the gaps in. Sometimes i will use a computer to piece together pre designs, for me to work from as a reference. If my canvas is a huge scale i can sometimes draw a template out by hand on accetate, and then use an OHP to project my drawn template out to the canvas, i will then redraw it onto the canvas and start painting.
What is the most challenging part of your ArtWork ? I would say the most challenging part of artwork is getting people to view it, and understand the way you have painted a piece from your point of view, some people may look at a pop art watch and view it as tacky, i suppose its each to their own. Everyone has their own taste in watches the same as they have their taste in Art, so the hardest part is accomodating most peoples taste into one painting, or style, its hard to be done! How has your style changed over the years? I would say my style hasnt changed much, as its in my blood, i just paint the way i paint and sometimes i dont know how i do it, but i can do a very simple piece or a very complex piece, its all down to the time you spend on a painting, i would say i spend a lot more time now on details and attention to areas of painting like the end product rather than just trying to do as many paintings as quickly as possible. As you know, art is very subjective in nature. What some people like, others do not. I’m sure you’ve received both positive and negative feedback of your work, so how do you think your work is perceived by watch enthusiasts? I would say a lot of people see my work as current, modern and a bit out there, but i am aware that a lot of watch enthusiasts are different to one another, one person will wear a completely custom diamond rolex whilst the other would not be seen dead in it, they might like to go for a nice panerai on a leather strap, im a little
MEN'S Is the ultimate dream would be to design a timepiece? I would love to have one of my pop art paintings of a watch like the submariner turned into an actual watch, maybe i should get Bamford Watch Department to customise a watch for me in the future, that would be a good dream !
If you have to choose one timepiece that is priced under $ 2,500 to make an art project, which one would it be? I would definitely choose the Swatch Sistem 51, as it was the first of its kind, made entirely of components pieced together by a machine, and not hand assembled. I know a lot of watch collectors with rolexs and patek philippes even have this watch in their collection. Mine was the blue one, i think it would make a great painting! Now that you launched your company « blackcard gallery », How do you come up with an affordable pricing structure for your art? I try to keep my 1 of 1 originals at a high value, as there is only 1 of its kind and it takes me a while to produce, so not only do i need to cover the time and cost of materials but also the skill involved. The limited edition prints i try to work my prices based on pride not greed, i dont want to over price a print, but at the same time if there is a limited amount made then they need to be worth something too. The hardest part is being a small company its expensive to ship these products across the world but we have shipped to over 50 countries since we began ! Have you ever thought to paint watch dials? Or even to put your art on wallet, bags...etc? I have never thought about that, but i have thought about t shirt designs, or paintingd with clock movements in them, although i dont want to take away anything from the art work and make the products worthless or a novelty item,
inbetween, i think i would wear both just on different occassions, i guess a watch could be a reflection of your personality, and i would say that a piece of art could also be a reflection of your personality, so i always expect positive and negative feedback on my artwork, the best thing is not to take negative comments to heart, and find the people that it is made for. The other option is to try and accomodate both sides, and do different styles to meet all personalities!
e recently had the pleasure of interviewing Liam Jacobi, a young artist painter based in London. He paints watches and tries to capture its beauty while adding his twist.
Liam always had a passion for drawing and has been creative since childhood. Indeed he has been creating art since the age of 14, but it took him many years to listen to his creative soul and become an artist. In fact, he didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t start calling herself an artist or sharing his art with the world, until 2010. Today, he creates a stunning canvas with a contemporary style which represents luxury watches like Rolex or Audemars Piguet, but he can paint anything and even a Seiko or a Tag Heuer. So choose your favorite watch and ask him a commissioned piece. He will transform your favorite watch into a unique hand drawn canvas you can treasure forever.
“ART is the only serious thing in the world. And the artist is the only person who is never serious.” Oscar Wilde
The young artist based in Sheffield, UK, studied at King Ecgbert School and did A Levels there, including Art & Design and Product Design. Then he went at Sheffield Hallam University where he studied Product Design. He started to sell his art by making pencil portraits of people’s children and pets. Over the next couple of years, he started to venture into the luxury market, painting watches and other luxury stuff.
Easy to see with this hand-painted canvas of a Rolex DayDate that his style is more inspired by artists from the Pop Art era, like Peter Blake, Andy Warhol or Roy Lichtenstein. Pop art is one of the major artistic movements of the 20th century. This one was born in the 50s in Great Britain and the USA. It is characterized by themes and techniques drawn from popular mass cultures, such as advertising, comic books and cultural objects. At the time the pop art was more a way of expressing a rejection of the modernist approach that prevailed in the culture of that time. The artists of that time re-evaluate modernism to create the aesthetics of the object. Today, the object has a renewed interest, so we cannot say that Liam is a rebel who wants to criticize worldly objects. No, he is passionate about horology and uses it to create his art. The style used for this painting of a Rolex DayDate is quite graphical, with clean lines and attention to detail. The painting includes crazy colors and artistic designs on the watch face making it unique and very appealing. This artwork has been hand painted, using emulsion paint and acrylic, the size is 30x30 inches on deep edge canvas (1.5inch deep) - the material is 380gsm professional grade canvas. As said before the style is Pop Art/Harlequin style. The result gives a vibrant, smooth finish. This piece took Liam roughly 12 hours to complete. For sure watch collectors will appreciate this kind of art. 47
ARTHUR OSKAR STAMPFLI CLASSIC DAY & NIGHT
hat if a luxury brand came in the market with a 100% Swiss Made affordable luxury watch? That was the choice of the NeuchĂ˘tel-based brand Arthur Oskar Stampfli, also known as AOSWatches. This brandAOSWatches is the brainchild of Roland Stampfli and shows his love and respect for his father, Arthur Oskar Stampfli who passed 24 years ago. Roland's father was involved in the watch industry and had an enthusiasm for watches throughout his adult life. Next to this he was also a boxer, who boxed his way to becoming Swiss champion. As an homage to this great man, Roland Stampfli decided to create in 2009 the eponymous watch brand Arthur Oskar Stampfli (AOS Watches). With this newcomer, AOS presents for the very first a timepiece with a diameter of 44mm.
Indeed the other collections have all a diameter of 47mm, even if thanks to some design tricks you always have the feeling that they are only 44mm. Also while in general, the Swiss brand uses Aluminium case or even 3D printed case, this time they choose to use stainless steel 316L. Totally different from the other artistic design presented in their various collection, this one is simply round with a kind of grooves on the sides. The lugs are directly integrated into the central base of the case, and even if, when viewed from the front they look straight, they are in fact curved to perfectly fit the lines of the wrist. The collection comprises two variations: One with a white dial, named Classic Day, and one with a black dial, called Classic Night.
Totally different from the other artistic design presented in their various collection, this one is simply round with a kind of grooves on the sides.
There are certain trademarks, such as, the big S positioned between 2 and 5, this one as you suspect is the symbol of the brand name "Stampfli"; We also find the 1916 number which is the birth date of Rolandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s father and which is also the reference to a complete collection. To finish the dial, there is a touch of To finish this dial there is some Luminova on the 12 indexes and on the hands. The heart beating of these pieces is one of the best movements designed by ETA, known as the 2824. This one offers a power reserve of 38 hours and the famous ETA reliability.As always with AOS, the watches are all 100% Swiss Made, finished and assembled by hand in their little workshop. So if you want a watch a little off the cuff, made with heart and passion be sure that AOSWatches is for you. WWW.AOS-WATCHES.COM
ith passion as his fuel, D a m i e n Koch is a rising star in the independent horology scene. We were fortunate enough to sit with him and talk about his brand. You have eyes only for your passion and have launched yourself body and soul into the venture of a lifetime. When did you decide to create HOF Watches and what elements triggered the creation of your own brand? This is actually a life project and an exciting human adventure. Making a watch requires so many skills and involves many trades. I love this diversity of skills and professionals I meet; it is impossible to get bored. The thought kept running through my head for a long time and my customers pushed me to start and launch my own brand. I thank them because they made me take the plunge and have always trusted me. During complicated times, I often think of all the steps taken by them and it is an additional source of motivation for me.
I note the functional and technical features of the watch to establish my specifications. Design and technical constraints are both important and must coexist. Then very quickly, I go to 3D. This allows me to verify that the design is balanced. I will ensure that all components are at the perfect dimensions and respect NIHS standards. This is a huge job that leads to comprehensive and Quality is at the heart of all your creations. efficient technical plans. Then there is a prototyping What steps do you go through to develop and phase, which essentially serves me doing all the last produce your timepieces? adjustments before production. First, I draw by hand the draft designs of the watch. This When itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to assemble the first watch, it is like a birth. part of creativity I particularly like. This is the reward of hard work and an indescribable happiness.
You work a lot on the details. Could you explain to us the specificities linked to the serial number of your watches?
There are many anecdotes and it is part of the charm of these limited edition projects. They discover my job and I discovered their specific world.
Everything is a matter of details in watchmaking. The watch itself is small compared to the number of components. We must be constantly on the lookout for the smallest detail. This is also the case during assembly. Nothing can be left to chance. As each watch is assembled by hand in the rules of art, they are all slightly different from each other. They each have their character and unique serial number engraved on the case that allows me to record valuable information about what I did to assemble and adjust the watch. Each watch has a track record and when I do a service, this information is helpful and lets me increase quality. Everything is always perfectible and that quest never ends! This is why I attach great importance to traceability. I realize virtual prototypes that allow comparing various At the creation of the brand, you made options, and they can make up their mind and choose some limited series of watches for French what they prefer. In the end, there is no doubt about government departments. How do you create what is expected and no bad surprises. these watches with these services like the one There are many anecdotes and it is part of the charm for French Customs? Do you have an anecdote? of these limited edition projects. They discover my job To make a watch that is telling a story -their story- using and I discovered their specific world. I remember the their codes, there is a lot of preparation and discussion. day I had my first appointment with one of these quite Having the ability to achieve realistic 3D renderings is secret entities. I had to call my contact once I got to the very pleasant in the process of finalizing the design of entrance. Unfortunately, I could not do it because my phone suddenly broke down. their watch. WWW.HOF-WATCHES.COM
It took two and a half years to achieve the SEASHORE, and when you look at it, at the first glance, you find it “simple” and efficient.
I then asked the orderly guard to call my contact for Your brand is very confidential; what are your short me; he started to search in its internal directory but and medium term objectives? cannot find the name of my contact... The last three years I developed the SEASHORE 42mm It was a great moment of realization becoming aware and capitalized on this experience to create several new that even within the institution, they are so secret that models. My goal is to create watches with a timeless they do not appear in the internal directories! I had to design and establish a readable range of watches in the go home to ring my contact and apologize for being collection. late. They found the situation very funny and we started To prioritize further models, I am guided by the needs our project with this crunchy anecdote. of my clients and priorities in the production of new watches are thus fixed. That’s why the next watch What aspect of HOF Watches is now relatively will have a gentle style, very elegant. I’m planning unknown, but you think that more people should know production in 2017. Other models are ready for production and will be about? Maybe that I started this amazing adventure alone and launched after the gentle watch. For example, the that I am still alone to imagine, to create, to assemble, SEASHORE 38mm with a ceramic case dedicated to and to sell all my watches. It took two and a half years women will appear after the gentle watch. There is also to achieve the SEASHORE, and when you look at it, at a diving/sport watch in titanium with 50 ATM ability based on a day/date Swiss made movement. And of the first glance, you find it “simple” and efficient. course, as we travel more and more, I will finish the It was my main goal. Then when you keep the time to GMT watch prototype exposed at the Basel Fair 2015 look at the details, you can see that nothing is left to which needs currently several technical developments. chance. To maintain a unity in the design line, I do not plan to The best gift my job can offer me is to see the light in create a large amount of models. Having five models in the eyes of someone discovering one of my watches. the coming years, with different variations of dials, case It means that I’ve reached my main goal: sharing the finishing or material… would already be fabulous. pleasure I have in creating a watch and providing happiness.
At the moment, you sell your watches only in direct sales but how would you like them to be distributed in the future? I don’t really think about this topic for the moment. My priority is quality in the product and the service. I firmly believe that product quality and service are the core of an activity that is to be implemented over the long term. Do you have a favorite watch in the collection? I love them equally for what they are and represent to my eyes. Of course, I have a favorite color, so the SEASHORE “AZURE” is a watch I really appreciate. I am also eager to wear the first gentle watch, I think it will be my favorite watch for the next few years.
Equally at home on sea or at shore
t is quite extraordinary to note that Damien Koch, owner of HOF watches, is an independent watchmaker who works alone and who designed the watch, made the plans, managed the manufacturing of the parts, and finally assembles it all by himself.
Knowing what represents a handmade cigar or a single malt gives an incredible dimension to the pleasure they provide. This is exactly the same mindset that the French watchmaker has. Whether a jewel, a cigar, or a grand-cru, all those people who work to create perfection by giving the best of what they can do and what they know they will give pleasure from the fruit of their work. With all the humility that characterizes him so well, Damien Koch said he is â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hoping that this happiness lasts and that its soul may not turn off â&#x20AC;?. Damien loves a job well done, so he works on all the details of his pieces with flawless precision.
With all the humility that characterizes him so well, Damien Koch said he is â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hoping that this happiness lasts and that its soul may not turn off â&#x20AC;?.
The first thing that will captivate you on the Seashore is the dial. The Seashore is available with many different colors but a favorite is the Azure. Its smoky blue dial is just beautiful The inner bezel is sloped and graduated so as not leave and it gives a nice contrast with the blue bezel. Starting from the blue and pulling to the white, the dial anything superfluous on this beautiful dial... This gives a real impression of purity. alone lets you travel. The SuperLuminova C3 is here to facilitate the reading The case itself has some hidden details that give value of indexes and hands in a dark environment. On this to this piece. For sure at first sight youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll think that this dial there are some other details like the HOF logo that one is quite simple and perhaps even that it looks like a is applied and not printed; also, some indexes are round Rolex Sub tribute. But details make the difference. and some others are triangular. 55
The Seashore watch is available in 3 versions to allow you to find the best one to fit your style.
The 200 m of water resistance is guaranteed with a screwed crown that is itself secured by the case. The Not to mention that the whole piece only weighs 100 crown is tucked into the side of the case, which is another security. This way, the ETA 2824 Top Grade gr, so it feels really comfortable on the wrist. movement will never be affected by the water. This On the back of the case, a flying fish (exocet) is movement is especially adapted for HOF by its supplier engraved; this type of fish is well known for their jumps based in Basel, with some modifications on it, such as above the water and illustrates nicely the sporting the power reserve raised from 38 hours to 45 hours. vocation of this watch but also symbolizes the interface between the aquatic and air environments. What can This piece designed and assembled in France is be noticed, and it makes a difference for me compared stamped “Fabriqué en France”, which is, as you know, to many other pieces, is the different kind of textures an additional guarantee of quality. found there. It is true that in general, the caseback is One thing is clear with Damien Koch; he doesn’t cut only smooth and engraved, but here it first follows the corners when it comes to quality. But more than that, texture of the case you selected and then there is a bit of he is incredibly transparent about the sources of his relief, which gives the impression that the fish is in the parts, the packaging, and his philosophy…So then you have in your possession a quality timepiece filled with water... That’s quite clever. The Seashore watch is available in 3 versions to allow passion. For instance, the owner of this piece will always have a nice feeling when he wears it thanks to the curved lugs.
you to find the best one to fit your style. The 42 x 11.60 mm Stainless Steel 316L case can be found in polished and circular brushed; sand blasted and in a sporty sand blasted black DLC coating version.
The affordable watches for under the tree B 1291 PILOT AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH A bold and robust chronograph fitted with the famed automatic ETA/ Valjoux 7750. 100 meters water resistant and fitted with a clearly legible dial, it is ready for any adventure. WWW.1291WATCHES.CH
C BULOVA CURV CHRONOGRAPH The world’s first curved chronograph wrist watch not only follows your wrist, but is also fitted with an actual curved movement that has a frequency of 262 kHz for ultimate precision and the smoothest running hands you have ever seen! $599
D CASIO G-SHOCK MT-G A very bold chronograph, the MT-G is a G-Shock in a “full metal jacket”, that is robust to the extreme! Next to a chronograph, it also treats you to functions like countdown timer, alarms, world timers, and much more, thanks to its GPS hybrid radio-controlled solar-powered system. 1.400,- euro
E SWATCH RIGHT TRACK SUNSHINE Talk about value for money! Swatch offers the Right Track Sunshine at a very competitive price, yet this is still a Swiss made, automatic chronograph! Designed in typical Swatch-style, this chronograph will draw attention! $370
F CITIZEN PROXIMITY A uniquely styled chronograph that seems to come straight out of the future: that is the Citizen Proximity. Powered by Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology means that exposing it occasionally to light is enough to keep it running 58
SEIKO PROSPEX MASTER SBDC029 A titanium case and bracelet with a special super hard coating makes this automatic Seiko Prospex a perfect lightweight companion for any exploration that involves water. The quality is impressive as Seiko has quite a reputation when it comes to building dive watches, like this boutique special. $1.200
BALTICUS GREY SEAL
CERTINA DS ACTION
Polish brand Balticus has built a very impressive diver with the Grey Seal. A subtle wave pattern adorns the dial, while the diving bezel is placed under the sapphire crystal.
Within Certinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection of divers watches this DS Action takes a special place. Quite noticeable due to its green dial and bezel, it is fitted with a high precision quartz movement within its 41mm case, to keep precision time above and under water!
TEMPEST VIKING V2 A serious diver in every way, shape, and form, the Tempest Viking V2 has some impressive credentials. One of them is a water resistance up to 2.000 meters. This thanks to an impressive $750
DOXA SUB 6000T PROFESSIONAL Nobody knows divers like Doxa! Fitted with the signature orange dial and distinct bezel the SUB 6000T Professional is in every way a classic Doxa Diver. With its unique case, fitted with helium escape valve, it sits firmly on the wrist and looking good while doing so! $2.490 (introduction price)
ORIENT CLASS Looking good doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to mean breaking the bank, as proven by this very elegant Orient Class. A slim gold plated watch with a 38mm diameter, sapphire crystal, and one of the brands own quartz calibers make it a perfect everyday watch. $215
TISSOT CARSON POWERMATIC 80 Elegant yet strong lines set the Tissot Carson Powermatic 80 apart from the rest. But it is not only the case that shows off the watch’s pedigree, its bracelet deserves a special recommendation as well! $675
Not a dress watch per se, but for sure one you can dress up with. The dial design of the Defakto Kinetik is simple but very clever, and bound to make your day every time you check the time. 546.22 euros (VAT excluded) WWW.DEFAKTO-UHREN.DE
ORIS ATELIER DATE Dedicated to the world of Jazz, the Oris Atelier Date is as vibrant as the music it represents. A nice guilloche dial with a subtle date at six o’clock, housed in that well rounded case that has been a signature of the Atelier-collection. Fitted, of course, with an automatic movement. 1.300 euro’s
JUNGHANS MEISTER Everybody knows the Junghans Max Bill, and should, but let’s not forget the Junghans Meister! Born in the 1930’s, it was perfected over the last eight decades until utter perfection. Its hand wound movement will give you a touch of history. $1.290
SUUNTO AMBIT3 PEAK SAPPHIRE BLUE The ultimate workout watch? The Suunto Ambit3 makes for sure a solid case for that, featuring GPS, heart rate monitoring, and so much more, all connected to your smart phone! $649
SKAGEN HAGEN CONNECTED The Skagen Hagen Connected is so elegant you almost forget that it is indeed a smart watch! You probably also forget that you are wearing it, because thanks to the titanium case it feels very light on the wrist. $215
SONY SMARTWATCH 3 SWR50 Sleek designed, the Sony SmartWatch 3 is more like a miniature computer that keeps you up to date about the weather, travel information, and can even help you improve your gold game! $179
ALPINA HORLOGICAL SMARTWATCH Perhaps the best blend of old school horlogerie and a modern day smart watch is cooked up by Alpina. Classic looks combined with all the features you want of a smart watch, and perhaps even a few you never knew you wanted!
FOSSIL Q CREWMASTER The Q Crewmaster by Fossil not only stands out with its bright colors, but also the many functions it packs in its analog display. A watch to stay connected, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t look connected! $175
PILOT CHRISTOPHER WARD C8 UTC WORLDTIMER A bold design, mainly thanks to the distinct black DLC coated case, and fitted with a rotating worldtimer bezel, the Christopher Ward C8 UTC Worldtimer is indeed ready to take on the worldâ&#x20AC;¦.in style! $1.260
HAMILTON KHAKI AVIATION WORLDTIMER CHRONO QUARTZ A lot of functions in a very attractive package, that is the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Worldtimer Chrono Quartz. Combining a chronograph and a worldtimer in a single watch, it is the perfect travel companion. $1.295
AVI-8 FLYBOY The Flyboy by AVI-8 for sure makes you want to leave solid ground and get airborne. Fitted with an automatic movement, this watch let you relive the old days when flying was an adventure that only few got a taste of. $310
TORGOEN T25 Fitted with a rugged leather strap, the Torgoen T25 simply looks ready for action! The reliable quartz movement features a GMT-function, so that even on the go, you can keep track of the time at home and abroad. $350
FORTIS COCKPIT ONE Looking larger then it in fact is, the 41mm Fortis
NICOLAS BOUTHERIN INTERVIEW
PRESIDENT AND ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF KLOKERS
oday on the Internet, we see a lot of great crowdfunding projects thanks to Kickstarter and Indiegogo but only a few come with a real imagination to propose something different to the watch enthusiasts around the world. But when we talk about imagination and crowdfunding we can’t miss Klokers. The French project based in Annecy-le-Vieux, founded by Richard Piras, chief executive officer and Nicolas Boutherin, president and artistic director, achieved a total of €605,898 and hit its first target of 50,000€ in only eight minutes. That sounds crazy and we wanted to know more about this success.
How did the project mature in your head and You call your backers the « Time Travelers » ; when did it become a reality? Where does this name come from ? The project came to me reading Stephen Klein’s books, a physicist specialist of the time, but also by doing some sociological research on Richard Florida’s Creative Class, and even by reading Seth Godin’s analyses, who conceptualizes marketing permission. This project is the sum of all my professional experiences that meet those of Richard Piras through his watchmaking expertise.
This word comes from a machine that travels through time (Time traveling Machine). Our watches and accessories offer the possibility to travel between the past and the projection of the future. The word ‘Time Travelers’ refers to transitive design because all the products are inspired by everyday life objects and trace back our collective or personal memories. For example, KLOK-01, inspired by the circular slide rule, brings up nightmares for some, and happiness for others.
How did you react when after only 8 minutes The Klok-02 arrived very quickly after the your target of € 50,000 on Kickstarter had Klok-01; was this one planned for a long time? Did you actually think to launch it directly been reached? after the first collection or have you changed Basically, we got an amazing impression like putting your strategy when you saw the success of the your fingers in an electric socket. As if we felt the first piece? energy of all the people like an electric current.
Initially klokers should have presented 3 watches. The project is to create a brand, not to create a designer project with only one product. We would like our brand to be represented in all its forms, with all its products. We want to preempt a territory of During the development of the campaign expression with quality products and an affordable we found that you are savvy with digital price. communication. Do you think the success of Klokers comes in large part from this We planned to release KLOK-01 in the first time and the KLOK-02 after, but we could not launch communication? the KLOK-02 if the KLOK-01 campaign had not Of course, but I think that we cannot make good functioned in advance. communication without a good marketing mix. This is the basis of success. Ours also comes from our team. Based on KLOK-01 success, we have decided to Since the beginning of this experience, our employees launch KLOK-02 directly after. have different cultures, creating a transdisciplinary team and therefore is the basis of our strength. We Do you already know what your next product respect the differences of each other and we are will be? Could you give us some insights? culturally and professionally rich. All our future products are ready until 2018/19. Do you want some details? KLOK-01 GMT, a KLOK-01 for women, new colors for the dials and cases, and also others straps and accessories. 70 The team lived an extraordinary moment but none of us could compare it because nobody had ever experienced this feeling before!
So many new products to reclaim our time as everybody wants and always with an accessible price from 100 to 900 euros.
Watches have always had hands, so I asked myself how it was possible to create one without hands precisely. In some way, it is an oxymoron.
More than a concept and a design, how did How have your own interests inspired the you get the idea of your first model The design of your timepieces? If so, to what extent? Klok-01? All has started with the transitive design approach. The idea comes from the principle that each watch is inspired by daily objects. While watching the slide rule, I project myself into the idea of creating a watch with a contemporary design. The purpose of Klokers is to tell stories through our products, giving our community a way to invent their own story.
I would not say that they have inspired the design of the watches but rather the philosophy of the brand. Our products are fair and not ostentatious. We want that our watches and accessories are also aesthetic, useful, of quality, but above all, true to their function in daily life. The goal is not to make « design » just to 71 make « design ».
All klokers’ models are inspired by objects from everyday life, which for some, touched a generation and have created memories through emotions.
Well what’s next? What are your goals in terms of development and what are your plans for the future?
We wish that one day Klokers will become a real Are your timepieces designed in such a brand, recognized for its originality and that it way as to meet a cultural and sociological can stand the test of time without being a passing fad. The idea is that Klokers reconciles the time of objective? organizations (schedule time) and biological time The social dimension of Klokers comes from the observation of an acceleration of the time and of our (our time). What will be the next step for Klokers and lives. Klokers’ products allow us to appropriate our time. The brand represents neither the performance where do you see the brand in 10 years? nor the concept of always doing more. The next step is obviously international deployment The cultural dimension of Klokers comes from the sense of detail but also from the notion of design and fashion. That means that we want to offer quality products, singular, whose price is accessible to all.
in terms of distribution but also to successfully develop remarkable products, I mean remarked products. (Laugh)
In 10 years? We would like that our brand has its own stores, that it is recognized for its singular products with Swiss-made quality and affordable price, but above all, that it has innovated the concept of time for everyone. We would be really happy if our products could bring some wellbeing for our customers as if we brought our contribution.
If there is only one: what kind of pictures do you have in mind to tell the story Klokers? I don’t have an image in mind to tell the story of Klokers. Everything that I have, it’s a very strong emotion. The pleasure of having created an adventure with Richard Piras in seeing that people believe more and more in our project and sharing it is enough.
(the free thinkers, creative ones, connected people...) that uses our products by showing that we are next to their side and not above them.
Regarding a threat or an opportunity, we will see. We will not qualify ourselves as desirable before the T-time. However, the brands live in a difficult moment because some of them had the habit of resting on annuities but there are more and more products that move the lines of the watch industry, What do you think the big brands at large such as the connected watch. think about the crowdfunding brands? You think that they see those new microbrands as a threat or as an opportunity for their What kind of advice could you give to anyone wishing to launch a crowdfunding business and for the watch industry? campaign? I think that big brands do not understand crowdfunding very well. Traditional watch brands are not in the culture of the proximity with their market. They generally close the doors, but we opened them! We are close to our community, it inspired us as we inspire them. We want to promote the work of the Creative Class *
Do you want a piece of advice? To all of those who would like to start a crowdfunding campaign, please never forget that a campaign is won by a large preparation before D-day and not during it! The last word goes to Kepner « The right product at the right place, at the right time, at the right price, at the right amount. »
KLOKERS: AFFORDABLE CREATIVITY
nique and affordable Klokers tries to offer to watch enthusiasts around the world a new way to show their personality.
After two years of research and development, the French-based brand introduced a collection of watches that is different from what we usually see in the watch industry.
By offering interchangeable straps and watches, Klokers gives you the possibility to create your own style. The watch head is attached to the strap using a patented system. The combinations of watch, straps, materials, colors and accessories are virtually endless. This also allows you to wear your watch anyway you want, on the wrist, as a fob, on your desk or on your notebook ... The originality of the watches doesn’t stop there. Indeed, the most interesting thing is the watch itself and its way to tell the time. Although it has become a universal standard to read the time using hands or numbers, Klokers came up with very different solutions. For the first model KLOK-01, it’s not the hands which go round but three discs one for the hours, one for the minutes and one for the seconds.
T h e slide rule was primarily used for multiplication and division, but it’s also suitable for calculating more complex functions such as roots, logarithms, and trigonometry. They were used extensively until the 1970s but became mostly obsolete in the mid ҆70s with the arrival of electronic calculators.
KLOK-01 is Swiss Made and features a high-precision Ronda quartz movement. The rotating discs are driven by high-efficiency, bi-directionally functioning Lavet micro-motors that boast low power consumption.
For sure the discs rotate at different speeds, making the whole dial a symphony of motion and fascinating to see. Another Klokers is the KLOK-02 which is a very useful The KLOK-01 is inspired by a calculating instrument watch thanks to its “Time Travel” complication.What named the “slide rule.” A slide rule is a mechanical makes the KLOK-02 extraordinary is a magic button it analog computer usually comprising three scales, one of allows you to travel back in time. which slides between the other two. 74
In only one click, you will be able to change your time zone and thus put your watch at the time of your destination. That’s quite clever because with this complication, which is complemented by a jumping hour, you will have instantly the exact time of the place where you sit, and above all, you don’t need to turn the hands by yourself using the crown.
While the large arc of the retrograde minutes and seconds sweeping across the top section of KLOK-02 is the first thing that will catch your eye, you can’t pass by the small windows underneath where the real magic happens. A circular opening displays jumping hours, to the right of which is a window showing cities, each city in one of 24 time zones around the world. By pressing the pusher at 4 o’clock, you will be able to switch the city/time zone and then the hour in that city’s time zone automatically synchronizes. Press longer and the date will be displayed, this all thanks to the Soprod SOP 813 mechatronic movement. Klokers has created a visually attractive way to tell the time for these two timepieces thanks to watchmaking complications that we don’t usually see on affordable quartz watches.
So if you are looking for something that changes the way you usually read the time, a product that encourages you to reappropriate time, to give it back its true value, then Klokers is for you. WWW.KLOKERS.COM 75
CITIZEN L CIRCLE OF TIME: PRACTICAL
an elegance and practicality go together? Citizen thinks it does and proofs this with the Circle of Time. The sleek round case has a central part of the dial that lays lower then the rest. It is here that the romantically shaped leaf hands tell time.
The dial is mother-of- pearl, and it is truly amazing that Citizen has been able to incorporate its Eco-Drive technology in this watch. This means that it is powered by light and never needs to be wound or have its battery replaced. The outside of the dial also features mother-ofpearl, but you can also get Circle of Life with some diamond accents that seems to float on the dial like stars. A nice feature is also the slightly domed sapphire crystal, which highlights the beautiful dial.
Another one of our favorite features is the bracelet (you can also pick a satin strap), which is made from finely rounded and polished links that follow the shape of your wrist smoothly. This make wearing a Circle of Time not only a fashionable experience but also a comfortable one! WWW.CITIZENWATCH.COM 76
THE CHRISTMAS LOOK C
hristmas is a time to spend with family and friends. A time to be comfortable, yet stylish. A time to dress up, laugh, and relax.
Landsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;End Classic Cashmere Turtleneck Sweater
Chan Luu Silver, Labradorite and Crystal Cuff
Crafted from Sterling Silver, with the unique look of Labradorite and accented with crystal stones, this cuff bracelet by Chan Luu will be an eye catcher without draining your wallet. $295
Nothing feels quite like cashmere! Soft to the touch, keeping you comfortably warm. Even more so with the turtleneck. $159
Alexander McQueen Floral Embroidered Loafers Of course, we are going all in on the shoes! Treat yourself this Christmas with the unique floral embroidered loafers by Alexander McQueen. $1.160 78
Vanessa Seward Charly Wool Culottes
The look of a dress, the comfort of a pair of pants. These Charly wool culottes by Vanessa Seward are both, and especially stylish as well! $495
Michele Deco Swan
Modern, stylish yet a touch romantic with the dial inspired by swans and set with diamonds. The perfect finishing touch on any outfit! $995
his no-bake pumpkin treat is filled with fresh spices and flavors sure to set the mood for a cozy Holiday season. 1 cup Ground Rolled Oats 1/4 cup Unsweetened Shredded Coconut 1/2 cup Pitted Dates 1-2 tablespoons Maple Syrup or Agave Nectar* 3 tablespoons Coconut Oil (liquified) 1 pinch Salt In a food processor pulse together the oat flour, shredded coconut, dates, maple syrup or agave, coconut oil and salt until a ball begins to form. *More or less maple syrup or agave may added or omitted according to personal taste. Transfer the mixture to a plastic wrap or parchment paper lined 8 inch square or 9x13 inch dish. Press and flatten the crust into one even layer and set aside.
For the Filling 1.5 cups Fresh Pumpkin (Roasted or Boiled until tender.) 1/4 cup Palm Sugar 1/2 cup Coconut Oil 1 Fresh Vanilla Pod 1 teaspoon Ground Cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon Nutmeg (I used freshly grated seed) 1/2 tablespoon Grated Ginger Root (or 1/8 teaspoon Ground) 1 pinch Ground Clove Add the pumpkin, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and clove to a food processor and pulse until the blades begin to move freely. Gradually add the coconut oil and vanilla mixture to the pumpkin and spices while they blend. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s preferable that the pumpkin is at least at room temperature as adding liquefied coconut oil to cold (anything) pumpkin will make it seize and re-solidify. * Once the pumpkin filling is smooth and there are no longer any visible lumps, pour the filling over the already prepared crust. Without covering**, placing the dish in a refrigerator for at least 5-6 hours, or overnight, to chill and become firm. Use the plastic wrap or parchment paper as leverage to remove the layers from the dish and cut squares of the desired size. **The pumpkin filling will likely be warm from being processed for the extended number of minutes it takes for it to become smooth. As a result of this, covering it right away will cause condensation to collect and drip onto the surface. To avoid this, only cover after a few hours (3 approx.) of refrigeration. Hermes Heure H Some style is as timeless as that it goes well with any occasion. Such a watch is the Heure H by Hermes. Perfect for the holiday season, its case is shaped like the H of the famous brand. The textured inner section of the dial is surrounded by a smooth outer ring with the Arabic numerals in typical Hermes fashion. Powered by a quartz movement and fitted with an orange strap it is a perfect companion for the end of the year season!
MONTBLANC TRADITION DATE:
TIMELESS STYLE IN A CLASSIC WRAPPING
he holidays are usually a time of tradition, and Montblanc highlights their watchmaking tradition with the classical Tradition Date. It has two hands, and of
course a date function, wrapped in a traditional stainless steel. It is, however, the white lacquered dial that sets it apart from the crowd, in a subtle way. In many ways, this Montblanc is like a black dress. Always appropriate, always in style and so easy to combine with almost anything. The black strap makes it perfect for business attire, but when off the clock dress up the Montblanc with another strap, however, you feel like. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tell anyone, but we even wear it on a NATO-strap. WWW.MONTBLANC.COM
THE NEW LOOK YEAR N remember.
ew Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eve: One year is ending, another one is beginning. You want to sparkle, you want to shine, you want to make it a night to
Ann Demeulemeester Cutout Stretch-Crepe Dress
Make a striking impression with this elegant cutout dress by Belgium designer Ann Demeulemeester. $995
Diane von Furstenberg 440 Envelope Sequined Clutch
Set with black sequins that change to gold when brushed in the opposite way is this clutch an eye-catcher in its own right. $250
Aquazzura Karlie Patent Leather Pumps Perhaps not the obvious choice but thanks to the use of patent leather an excellent combination with the dress. $715
Anissa Kermiche 14K Gold Pearl Earring A subtle yet striking design, with the large yellow gold hoops accentuated by a small diamond. Refined style! $600
Movado Museum Wrap
Movadoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Museum Watch is a legendary design, and even more tempting as wrap. With its deeply grooved bracelet, it is the perfect marriage of watch and jewellery. $1.195
Seiko Tressia Solar The Tressia by Seiko is not only innovative in terms of design, it is solar powered so you never have to replace a battery or wind it. Just wear it and enjoy! $525
Michael Kors Access Bradshaw Being smart and looking cool, the Access Brasdshaw by Michael Kors not only allows you to stay in touch with your friends and track your fitness goals, but also looks good while doing so. Thanks to the gold tone case and unique brown acetate bracelet links, you are bound to dress to impress! $375
Stowa Flieger Klassik 36 As one of the makers of the original B-uhr Stowa knows like no other how to make a Flieger-uhr. That is evident in the Flieger Klassik 36, and yes, the number indeed indicates the case-size, so it is absolutely perfect for the feminine wrist. 781,51 Euros
Rado True Crafted from high-tech ceramics, fitted with an automatic movement and a translucent mother-of-pearl dial. No wonder that the Rado True is a Red Dot award winner! It is timeless and refreshingly modern at the same time. $2.300
Victorinox Alliance Small For a brand that is known for their Swiss Army knives, you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect such an elegant watch as the Alliance. With an oversized moonphase in the middle of a mother-of-pearl dial, and fitted with a double tour bracelet, it represents the finest in Swiss elegance. $495 86
Seiko Tressia Solar
Michael Kors Access Bradshaw
WE WANT FOR
Stowa Flieger Klassik 36
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PROFESSIONAL: THE AFFORDABLE BOND-WATCH
ond, James Bond: in 1995 these words opened up a new era for the franchise. After six years waiting, Bond was back! Pierce Brosnan took over as the world’s most famous secret agent, and around his wrist this time not a Rolex or a Seiko, but an Omega Seamaster Professional.
The Seamaster has been around for decades, and evolved over the years from a casual sports watch, to a stylish yet hardcore diver. The watch was therefore also a natural fit for 007, and got ample screen-time, also because Q fitted Bond’s Seamaster with a few bonus features. The movie was a success, and so was the Seamaster Professional. In fact, the sales of this particular model apparently rose ten-fold after the movie came out.
The blue dialed Omega Seamaster Professional wasn’t created especially for Bond, since it was already part of the collection. But because the model features in several Bond movies, it often feels that way. In Goldeneye Brosnan started out with the quartz Seamaster Professional (model 2541.80.00), but soon moved over to the automatic version of the same watch (model 2531.80.00). It wasn’t until Daniel Craig took over that Bond was eventually fitted with other models.
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With the blue dial with wave pattern, blue bezel, and original bracelet design, Omega was able to create another benchmark next to the Rolex Submariner. Although less expensive, the Seamaster Professional performed equally well. The bracelet Omega created for the Seamaster Professional is a thing of beauty in its own right. It is very comfortable, comes with an excellent clasp (with divers extension build in) and was even nicknamed the Bond-bracelet.
The Bond Seamaster Professional is still a quite affordable way to own and wear one of 007’s watches yourself, although its price has been rising steadily over the years. Used automatic Chronometer models will set you back a little over US$2.000,- on the Bondbracelet, with the quartz version costing several hundred dollars less. But be warned, it will probably cause you to start practicing “My name is Bond, James Bond” in front of every mirror you see, and you might also start to look through the ads in the papers to find a used BMW Z3….
Except for their movement, and a few minor details, both watches are essentially the same, featuring a 41mm case, helium escape valve, and a screw down crown. Watch enthusiasts get most excited about the automatic version, which was powered by ETA’s reliable and robust caliber 2892A2. This movement was also chronometer certified, as an added bonus.
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THE CREATIVE 90s by Dale Vito Boom
ne of the watches that wiggles its way to my wrist rather often is my early nineties Breitling Chronomat. Now, as I'm sure you know, this is not a 'hot' watch. You will probably not encounter it too often while browsing those hip vintage watch bloggers and dealers (or is it blogger-dealers nowadays?) on Instagram, Snapchat, or wherever the action is. But yet I love it. And you too should try to love this and other ugly ducklings.
Most watches of the 1980's and 1990's are overlooked and gain little respect in watch collecting circles. But to me, there's something fascinating about this period. Many watchmakers were only just slowly climbing out of the dark hole the quartz crisis had left them in and starting to reinvent themselves. For most the means were modest, especially compared to today. Yet there were creative minds laying the brickwork of the house that stands today, whether it be in terms of design, materials, complications or marketing;
V I N TA G E CONTENTS Eberhard Chronomaster Frecce Tricolori
Fortis Stratoliner West in Space
In 1981 Jean-Claude Biver bought Blancpain, essentially setting the tone for the resurrection of mechanical watchmaking. 1983 saw the introduction of Swatch, a Swiss watch combining affordability with fun, design and pop culture, that would grow out to become a force to be reckoned with - and the motor behind the revival of quite a number of big names. 1984 gave us the Breitling Chronomat, with its distinct 'raiders' that would play a bit part in the brand's identity up to this very day. In 1985 there was the IWC Da Vinci, the first 'affordable' perpetual calendar chronograph - courtesy of the module designed by Kurt Klaus that is still being used today. Fast forward a few years and a few notches in obscurity, in 1992 Fortis introduced a quirky version of its Stratoliner chronograph, commemorating a rocket launch at the Baikonur site.
It featured a dial adorned with images by Berlinbased artist Andora, making it what I believe to be one of the first mechanical wristwatches created in collaboration with a contemporary artist; nowadays a practice much appreciated by brands such as Hublot, Romain Jerome, and Richard Mille. The Omega Seamaster 300m was introduced in 1993 and best remembered for its 1995 role in Goldeneye. While ambassadorship and product placement were nothing new, it was this â€“that name again- Jean-Claude Biver move that took things to a whole new level. And how about the 1994 introduction of the IWC Mark XII, effectively re-establishing a collection that hadn't seen any real news since the 1948 Mark 11? Sure, many of the watches from these decades are nowhere near timeless, even of questionable taste. But as indicated by the examples above, there are just as many that deserve a second look, especially at prices that can be considered affordable compared to watches from earlier decades. Happy hunting!
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PREMIUM ON A DIME:
ROLEX OYSTERDATE PRECISION
ive letters and a little crown make up perhaps the most recognizable luxury brand in the world: Rolex. In fact, the brand is so well known and loved that even (or should we say especially) vintage Rolex watches are priced well beyond what many of us would call affordable. With one exception: the Rolex Oysterdate.
Before we continue, it is important to realize that one space makes a big difference in the universe of Rolex: do not mistake the Oysterdate with the Oyster Date. That last one is a Chronometer certified automatic watch that is still part of the Rolex current collection, while the Oysterdate is neither of these. Introduced in the early 1960â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the Oysterdate, also known under reference 6694, is your typical, low key vintage Rolex, that does give you all the hallmarks the brand has become so famous for. First there is of course the famous Oyster-case, ensuring water resistance. This also means that the watch is fitted with a screw down crown.
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A 17-jewel, workhorse movement that Rolex had never Chronometercertified in the Oysterdate but still will provide you with quite satisfying precision.
Being a manual wind watch, this crown gets quite a workout but its construction is Rolex-robust and replacement of the tube is relatively inexpensive.
Fitted with caliber 1225, you get a bona fide Rolex manufacture caliber (unlike the Tudor Oysterdate, which is fitted with third-party movements). A 17-jewel, workhorse movement that Rolex had never Chronometer-certified in the Oysterdate but still will provide you with quite satisfying precision. They also never fitted it with a quick-set date, which can be bothersome when the watch is not your daily wear. The dial is very straight forward, with typical Rolex stick hands and markers that actually look like small bars on the dial. 93
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ROLEX OYSTERDATE PRECISION Prices of an Oysterdate in good condition should be around US$1.800,-. Expect to pay a slight premium for box and papers, and a lower price when the watch comes on a strap instead of the Oyster-bracelet. The construction of the bracelets is quite solid, but do With a diameter of 34mm the Oysterdate seems like always check it on extensive wear by taking the clasp a small watch, while in fact on the wrist it looks very between your fingers and holding the watch straight, so that the watch itself puts its weight on the bracelet. The similar to the 36mm Datejust in terms of size. straighter the bracelet stays, the better. Silver, black, This is mainly thanks to the Oyster-bracelet, which has and blue are the most common colors, and be careful a width of 19mm making it quite large in relation to with other colors since often they were repainted or the overall diameter of the watch. Because it is not an modified in another way to expedite the sales of the automatic, the screw down case-back is rather flat and watch, by giving it a more updated look. When you can the watch sits very nicely on the wrist. steer away from those you will end up with a fantastic vintage Rolex. The dial has a slight sunburst to it, which is especially noticeable on later models. This particular Oysterdate is from 1981, the first year that Rolex fitted the model with a solid link bracelet, before that it had the folded bracelet links.
2017 Martin Green Editor-in-Chief
The question is how will they bounce back? An answer can be to finally get a hold on the vast market that is represented by the generation of Millenials.
We are right now on the threshold of yet another new year. Something tells me that 2017 is going to be a turbulent and decisive year for the watch making world. More brands will enter the smartwatch market, and that will put without a doubt a dent in the sales of traditional quartz watches. In fact, I wonder if there is much of a future for simple quartz watches. Especially the Swiss brands will probably feel more of a squeeze if markets donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t recover.
AFTER THOUGHTS CONTENTS
The question is how will they bounce back? An answer can be to finally get a hold on the vast market that is represented by the generation of Millenials. However, are they ready to embrace watches as part of their style? So far few brands have been able to get footing on solid ground with this group. Apparently, all having a hard time figuring out what it is exactly that can tempt them to get into watches. This wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be stopping many microbrand owners from following their dreams and launching a watch of their own. 2016 saw them in record numbers, and 2017 will probably see more. Expect them also to be far more competitive. Many Asian factories that generally supply the Swiss brands with parts are getting fewer orders, and have no problem also supplying to microbrands.
This will mean an increase in quality, while the price tags should remain very competitive. In fact, all the micro brands together might chew off a nice portion of the affordable watch market, bringing existing brands in an even more difficult situation. But of course, economic growth can turn this all around as easy as the weather changes. However, one thing will remain a fact: 2017 is going to be a fascinating year in watchmaking!
Running ahead of the music, Martin is the driving force behind Watchisthis?! Always thinking a few issues ahead, he sees the magazine as a constantly evolving concept to give its readers the best. Although he spends most of his writing career focused on Haute Horlogerie, it was his passion for more affordable watches that resulted in Watchisthis?!
Super mom, and designer extraordinaire, she is the one that makes Watchisthis?! look good. Not an easy task, because she has to endure not only our outrageous, and sometimes unfeasible design ideas, but she is also the one that suffers when articles are late or pictures coming after. Events she tackles with whit and a smile because she knows that the magazine is her canvas.
NaturalVrouw shares fun and easy recipes that turn familiar dishes into a creative and ‘lighter’ gourmet experience. All that is needed are a few fresh ingredients and of course a nice watch around your wrist to ensure perfect timing!
A passion for watches, almost all watches, and an encyclopedic knowledge about them, that is Jonathan. With an eye for the exceptional, he knows where to find great watches and good stories. For Watchisthis?! Jonathan goes the extra mile, finding ways to bring affordable watchmaking as you have never seen before. And being French, of course with a healthy dose of savoir vivre.
An eye for the extraordinary, and a love for the underdog, ensures that whenever you meet Dale he will have something unexpected on his wrist. Despite his strong personal style, his knowledge extends far beyond it, knowing the heights and depths of the watch industry like the back of his hand.
Just like a watchmaker, Laura has a passion for precision. She loves to make sure every word and comma is in place in hers and others’ writing. When not proofreading Laura is writing, reading voraciously, or learning something new (she’s a perpetual student). She lives in Hamilton, Canada with her partner and their baby boy.
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