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02


co nt ent s Co ast alW alking

4 -9

H illW alking

10-18

Paradise F o u nd?

19-22

Co ast alW alking

23-27

Isle o fA ng lesey Co ast Pat h

28-29

F am ily W alking

30-35

Pu m lu m o n -g ent le g iant o fM id W ales

37-4 1

Bo o krev iew s

4 2-4 3

H eritag eW alks

4 8-5 1

W alks

5 2-6 1

W E L CO M E t o W a lk in g Pa g e s ,t h e f ir s t e v e r e d it io n o f N W N M e d ia 's n e w g u id e f o r w a lk in g in N o r t h a n d M id W a le s a n d Th e M a r c h e s . Inclu ded in t h isissu e isa g u ide t o w alkso n part o f t h e new ly -o pened W alesCo ast Pat h and in t h e m o u nt ainsand h illso fSno w do nia and t h e Vale o f C lw y d. W h y no t w alko n air and ch o o se o u r C h irkt o L lang o llen ro u t e w h ich t akesin t h e w o rld h eritag e site t h e Po nt cy sy llte aqu edu ct ? W ell,it'salm o st like w alking o n t h e air... Th ere'sa specialsect io n adv ising h o w t o keep ch ildren ent ert ained w h ile o u t ex plo ring and

w alking .A nd t h ere are ev en su g g est io nsw h ere y o u sh o u ld st ay du ring y o u r ex peditio ns. Th ankst o o u r co nt ribu t ersC arlRo g ers,Sio ned Bannist er,J o h n G illh am ,L o rna J enner,To m H u t t o n, St ev e G o o dier H u t t o n,and J o Danso n. E njo y W alking Pag es.W e h o pe y o u find it u sefu l. Pu b lis h e d b y N W N M edia L t d M o ld Bu sinessPark, W rex h am Ro ad,M o ld, C H 71X Y Tel:0135 2 707707 w w w .nw nm edia.co .u k

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M a r v e llo u s M a w d d a c h S io n e d Ba n n is te r

Dis c o v e r o n e o f No r th W a le s’� n e s t c o a s ta l tr a ils a n d u n c o v e r th e s e c r e ts to a th r iv in g in d u s tr ia l h e r ita g e .

Su n s e t o v e r B a r m o u th fr o m Pe n m a e n p o o l P h o to : C a r l Ro g e r s R ig h t: Tw o v ie w s o f B a r m o u th B r id g e P h o to : © C r o w n c o p y r ig h t (2 011) Vis it W a le s

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Co a s t a l W a lk in g

“ � e r e is n o b e tte r w a lk th a n fr o m Ba r m o u th to Do lg e lla u o th e r th a n fr o m Do lg e lla u to Ba r m o u th ” p r o c la im e d th e g r e a t Vic to r ia n a r tis t a n d w r ite r Jo h n Ru sk in w h e n h e v isite d B a r m o u th d u r in g th e 19th c e n tu r y .

B

A C K TH E N ,Ru skin w o u ld h av e been g reet ed w it h a landscape no t w ildly different fro m t h e o ne t h at w alkers adm ire t o day .G o ne are t h e indu st rialm arks,t h e bu st le o fa bu sy po rt and t h e dark,o ily lineso fo ld railw ay lines,bu t t h e st u nning su rro u nding st h at aredefined by v ast sea v iew s,st eep m o u nt ain slo pes and t h e w ide o pen m o u t h o ft h e M aw ddach est u ary st illench ant v isit o rs and lo cals alike.

H it t h e Tr a il To day ,t h eM aw ddach Trailiso ne o fN o rt h W ales’m o st st u nning co ast alw alking ro u t es.It ru nsfo r alm o st 10 m ilesbet w een t h eseasidereso rt o fBarm o u t h and t h e inland m arket t o w n o fDo lg ellau .Th e ro u t e fo llo w s w h at w as o nce a bu sy railw ay link o pened in t h e 186 0’s,bu t t h e o ld line su ccu m bed t o t h e w ielding o f Beech ing ’sax ealm o st 5 0 y earsag o and it w asqu ickly pu rch ased by t h e Sno w do nia N at io nal Park and o pened asa w alking and cy cling t rail. Befo ret h e indu st rialrev o lu t io n st eam ed itsw ay t o t h e co ast o fN o rt h W alesin t h e m id 1800s,t h e M aw ddach est u ary h ad a bu st ling indu st ry o fit s o w n.F ish ing

bo at slined t h e h arbo u rat Barm o u t h and t h e clang o f bu sy sh ipy ardsreso u nded alo ng t h e est u ary and u p int o t h e h ills. By t h e end o f t h e 18t h cent u ry , t h e est u ary w as est ablish ed as an im po rt ant t rade sh ipping ro u t e. Slat e,o ak,w o o land flannelw ere allex po rt ed fro m Barm o u t h acro ss t h e A t lant ic,and bo at s co m ing in w o u ld bring co al,lim e and farm m anu re.In a cru el t w ist o ffat e,t h o u sands o ft o nnes o fh ard-w earing flannelw eresent fro m Do lg ellau t o A m erica t o clo t h e t h e plant at io n slav esw h o w ere im priso ned o n v ast co t t o n farm s, t h e plent ifu land ch eap pro du ce o f w h ich ev ent u ally cau sed t h e do w nfallo ft h e Brit ish w eav ing indu st ry . H o w ev er,by t h e m id 1800st h e railw ay sh ad w h ipped t h e w ind fro m t h e sailso ft h e g reat bo at s.In 186 2 t h e last sh ip,C h arlo t t e,w asbu ilt at t h e sh ipy ardso n t h e banks o f t h e est u ary at Penm aenpo o l and slo w , dang ero u s sh ipping ro u t es w ere replaced by h ig h speed railw ay linest h at co nnect ed t h isrem o t e part o fW alest o t h e big citieso findu st rialE ng land.

05


M a in im a g e : B a r m o u th B r id g e s ilh o u e tte d a g a in s t th e g o ld e n e x p a n s e o f C a r d ig a n B a y P h o to : C a r l Ro g e r s R ig h t: B a r m o u th B r id g e P h o to : © C r o w n c o p y r ig h t (2 011) Vis it W a le s

“ th e M a w d d a c h T r a il is o n e o f No r th W a le s’ m o s t s tu n n in g c o a s ta l w a lk in g r o u te s”

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Co a s t a l W a lk in g

By 186 9 t h e C am brian Railw ay and t h e m ig h t y G reat W est ern Railw ay h ad co m plet ed w o rks o n t h e final linksbet w een t h e W elsh co ast and t h e M idlands,t h e N o rt h W est o fE ng land and L o ndo n.Th e M aw ddach est u ary ’ssh ipsg av e w ay t o railand slo w ly bu t su rely Barm o u t h ’sindu st ry g av e w ay t o t o u rist s.

part o ft h e t o w n asco lo u rfu lro cko rdo nkey rides.It ’s t h e lo ng est v iadu ct in W alesat alm o st 2,300 feet and feat u red so m e g ro u nd-breaking t ech no lo g y fo r t h e t im e as each iro n co lu m n h ad t o be su nk120 fo o t belo w t h e sea bed and a clev er sliding sect io n w as inclu ded at t h e no rt h ern sideso t h at sh ipsco u ld pass.

Q u e e n o f Re s o r t s

Th e m ajest ic w o o den and st eel st ru ct u re is rem iniscent o fBarm o u t h ’sh ey day and a t im e w h en t h e M aw ddach est u ary w o u ld h av e been aw ash w ith h appy t o u rist s and bo o m ing lo calbu sinesses.Bu t sadly, as w it h m any o t h er Brit ish co ast al reso rt s, Barm o u t h w asin decline by t h e 196 0s.C h eap,fo reig n packag eso fsu n and sang ria h ad replaced t raditio nal W elsh co ast alh o liday sand a rev iew o ft h e co u nt ry ’s railw ay sby Dr Beech ing m eant t h at by 196 5 t h e line linking Barm o u t h and t h e M aw ddach t o Do lg ellau w asclo sed and fo rev er lo st .

Resident s o f t h e sm o g g y , bu sy cit ies o f indu st rial E ng land cried o u t fo r clean,rest o rat iv e seaside air. W ith t h e fast new railw ay linksin place,Barm o u t h w ast h e perfect dest inat io n fo r t h e h o liday ing city dw ellersand it so o n becam e a fash io nable h o liday h o t spo t .It t em pt ed W o rdsw o rt h aw ay fro m h isbelo v ed L ake Dist rict and w asa draw fo rVict o rian celebritiessu ch asSh elley ,Darw in and Tenny so n. Visito rst o Barm o u t h w ere g reet ed by t h e ico nic Barm o u t h Bridg e,o pened in 1867and no w asm u ch a

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M a in im a g e : B a r m o u th (A b e r m a w ) a n d its s tu n n in g lo c a tio n a t th e m o u th o f th e M a w d d a c h R ig h t: � e b r id g e a t Pe n m a e n p o o l P h o to : Š C r o w n c o p y r ig h t (2 011) Vis it W a le s

Go ld e n H ills A t t h e east ern end o ft h e M aw ddach Traillies t h e t o w n o fDo lg ellau and it t o o h as seen it s fo rt u nes co m e and g o alo ng w it h t h e railw ay line t h at o nce serv ed it.Slig h t ly t o o far fro m t h e co ast t o beco m e a po pu lar seaside reso rt like Barm o u t h ,Do lg ellau w as an im po rt ant m arket t o w n u nt ilt h e secret t o it s w ealth w asdisco v ered bu ried deep in t h e h illside. In t h e 186 0st h ere w asso m et h ing o fa m inig o ld-ru sh in t h e m o u nt ainsand v alley sbeh ind t h e t o w n as

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m inerslo o king fo rco pperaccident ally disco v ered rich v einso fg o ld.Th e G w y nfy ny dd m ine w aso ne o ft h e larg est and t h e nearby C lo g au m ine w aso ne o ft h e m o st w ellkno w n.Bo t h h av eno w clo sed,w h ich m akes t h isprecio u sm et alv ery rare and m o re v alu able t h an o t h erg o ld.Precio u seno u g h fo rro y alty it w o u ld seem ast h et raditio n o fw earing a w edding ring m adefro m W elsh g o ld h as co nt inu ed t h ro u g h sev eral g enerat io nso ft h e ro y alfam ily,inclu ding t h eir m o st recent additio n M sM iddlet o n.


Co a s t a l W a lk in g areas t h at are u nder pro t ect io n becau se o f t h eir nat u ralim po rt ance.Th e v ast ex panse o freed bedst o t h e w est o fDo lg ellau ist h e larg est su ch site in W ales and isa t h riv ing h o m e fo r w et land birdsand w ildlife. A lit t le fu rt h er w est lies t h e A rt h o g Bo g , ano t h er desig nat ed w et land sitew h eredrag o nflies,bu t t erflies and beesdance t o t h e beat o ft h eir daily su rv iv al. Th e o ld sig nalbo x at Penm aenpo o lisno w an RSPB o bserv at io n cent re,t h eperfect spo t t o cat ch sig h t ing s o ft h e co u nt less birds t h at m ake t h eir h o m e h ere. W aders are co m m o n, bu t o y st ercat ch ers, cu rlew s, redsh anksand lit t le g rebesalso h av e st arring ro les. Du ring w int erm o nt h sa pereg rinefalco n can o ften be seen circling t h e co ld skiesabo v e. To day t h e M aw ddach Trail m eanders peacefu lly alo ng sidet h e riv erand t h ro u g h t h esenat u rereserv es. It ’sdifficu lt t o im ag ine t h at t h isserene lo cat io n w as o nce t h e scene o fbu sy sh ipy ards,dirt y lo co m o t iv es, no isy indu st ry and h u ndredso fpasseng ers. Bu t it ish ere,am o ng t h e deep reed bedsand delicat e im print so ft iny feet and w ing ed liv est h at t h e secret s t o a lo ng lo st indu st rialag e lay bu ried.Th e leg acy o fa sh ipping t rade and t h e sw eeping ch ang es t h at t h e railw ay linesbro u g h t w ith it aren’t t o t ally lo st ,t h ey left a h erit ag e t h at t h e lo cal area is pro u d o f, bu t t h ankfu lly t h e scars o findu st ry w eren’t last ing and t h isbeau t ifu lest u ary is spect acu larly t ranqu ilo nce m o re. Fo r m o r e in f o r m a t io n a b o u t t h e M a w d d a c h Tr a il s e e w w w .m a w d d a c h t r a il.c o .u k

To day t h e m ine bu ilding st h at o nce perch ed o n t h e bankso ft h e riv erM aw ddach ,h ig h in t h e fo rest abo v e Do lg ellau h av e allbu t disappeared.Bu t t h e bo u ndless energ y o ft h e riv er st illcarv est h ro u g h t h e v alley t o spillit s w at ery co nt ent s o u t int o t h e w ide est u ary belo w . To day it ’st h ese lu sh flat landsand m arsh est h at are o ne o ft h e m ain draw s t o t h e M aw ddach est u ary . Th ere are t w o Siteso fSpecialScient ific Int erest (SSSI) alo ng t h eTrail,desig nat ed co nserv at io n

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A u th o r a n d p u b lis h e r Jo h n G illh a m w r ite s a b o u t h is e x p lo r a tio n o f S n o w d o n ia 's m in i m o u n ta in s

In Pr a is e o f S m a ll M o u n ta in s

Ph o to g r a p h s b y Jo h n G ilh a m a n d C a r l Ro g e r s Rh o b e ll-y -b ig s e e n fr o m C w m y r A llt-lw y d

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H ill W a lk in g

G lo y w C a r r e g -y -Sa e th a n d G lo y w ly n

I

’v e nev er been a list m aker. M y w ife t ells m e I w o u ldn’t fo rg et so m any t h ing sat t h esu perm arket ifIco u ld ju st w rite o ne befo re Ig o .So w h en Iw ro t e m y fo u r-v o lu m e g u ide 'A Pict o rial G u ide t o t h e M o u nt ains o fSno w do nia' I h ad no idea h o w m any peaksw ere inclu ded.I’d ju st lo o ked at t h e O rdnance Su rv ey m ap t o see w h at lo o ked rig h t and st art ed m y m issio n. A fter fo u r o r fiv e y ears o f redisco v ering Sno w do nia Ih ad a fineco llect io n o fsu m m itsw ith no t o nly t h e m ajo r peaks bu t w it h so m e, like C o nw y M o u nt ain t h at w ere litt le m o re t h an 800 feet h ig h .A few m o nt h s after pu blicat io n m o u nt ain ent h u siast M arkTreng o v e t o ld m e h e h ad co u nt ed 16 6 su m m its in t h e fo u r v o lu m es.H e h ad m et icu lo u sly list ed t h em o n h isw ebsite and called t h em t h e G illh am s.* E v ery bo dy kno w s t h at Sir H u g h M u nro creat ed t h e best m o u nt ain list – h e h ad so m u ch t o w o rkw ith in t h e H ig h lands o fSco t land and didn’t bo g h im self

do w n w ith t o o m any criteria.Bu t w h at m akesa g o o d list ? Is it h eig h t ,m ajest y ,v iew s o r h ist o ric int erest ? W o u ldn’t it beh arsh ifo u rfav o u riteplacedidn’t m ake t h e list becau se it w aso nly 1,999ft h ig h o r t h ere w as o nly a 4 99ft dro p.C o nv ersely,w h o w ant st o clim b a bo g g y 3,000ft lu m p w it h a v iew o fano t h er bo g g y 3,000ft lu m p? A nd sh o u ld C nich t near Beddg elert co u nt as t w o peaks st ret ch ing m at h em at ics t o t h e lim its? I’m st illin t h ecam p t h at say st h ereare14 W elsh t h ree t h o u sand fo o t peaks:G arnedd U ch af(C arnedd G w enllian) do esn’t m ake it fo r m e. Th elitt lepeaksnex t t o t h e big peaksareo ften realfu n – t ake C arreg -y -saet h (arro w ro ck) in t h e Rh ino g y dd. A lth o u g h it ’s o nly 1,06 6 ft/325 m h ig h t h is ang u lar ridg ew ith t iered and m u ch -fau lted diag o nalg ritst o ne crag s t o w ers abo v e t h e so u t h sh o res o fL ly n C w m By ch an,aspro u d asany Rh ino g .It h asno pat h sin its u pper reg io ns so y o u ’llh av e t o pio neer y o u r o w n

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ro u t e by scram bling o v er ro cks and av o iding t h e t h ickest o ft h e h eat h er,bu t w h en y o u g et t o t h e litt le su m m it cairn… w o w ,w h at a v iew .Th e ro m ant ic lake o f G lo y w ly n, w h ich y o u pro bably passed o n t h e ascent , no w h ides beneat h t h e u pper slo pes, bu t Rh ino g F aw r lo o ks m enacing ly g o o d w it h it s fierce blo cky crag s.Th e dru m -sh aped C lo g w y n y Po t fro nt s a m o u nt ainscape t h at lo o ks like A riz o na,w it h t h e added pu rple and g reen bit s o fv eg et at io n.To t h e w est t h e sw eep o fCardig an Bay leadst h e ey e t o t h e O n th e s u m m it o f Y G a r n lo o k in g a c r o s s its la k e to A r e n in g F a w r a n d A r e n ig F a c h

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ro m ant ic sky line o ft h e L ly n Peninsu lar.Y o u ’re clo se eno u g h t o see t h e w av es… and sm ellt h e seaw eed to o . To t h e east o ft h e Rh ino g y dd and t h e bu sy A 4 70 ro ad Sno w do nia slipsaw ay int o relat iv e ano ny m ity .A t first sig h t t h ese M ig neint and A renig h ills are g rassy , m o o rland in ch aract er,and rat h er du ll.Su re ify o u ’re t rav elling o n t h e Traw sfy ny dd t o Bala ro ad and y o u g lance left y o u ’llsee a litt le crag bey o nd t h e v iadu ct s o ft h eo ld railw ay bu t by t h at t im ey o u ’v eg o t a 70m ph car t ailg at ing y o u .So let ’spu llint o a C w m Pry so r lay by and t ake a clo ser lo o k.


H ill W a lk in g A cro sst h e w ay t h e A fo n Pry so r flo w slaz ily fro m t h e t u sso ckso ft h e A renig fo o t h ills.O n t h e so u t h side o f t h e v alley are t w o v ery different h ills. O ne, C raig laseit h in,h asa dist inct iv e crag g y pro file,w h ile t h eo t h er,M o elO ernant ,israt h erm o rero u nded.Bo t h o ffer a splendid circu lar fo r t h o se w h o like t h eir h ills rem o t e and peacefu l. L ly n G elli G ain, w h ich lies bet w een,pro m iseslitt le bu t ,ifseen o n a brig h t ,crisp au t u m n day w h en t h e v eg et at io n w earsa fiery g lo w , t h isplace isqu ite m ag nificent w ith t h e su rro u nding crag sact ing asa perfect fo ilfo r t h e peakso fA renig F aw r and M o elL ly fnant .Ify o u h av en’t t ackled t h ese big g er peakst h e v iew so ft h em w illinspire y o u t o do

so .Th e inst ant ly reco g nisable t w in peaks o fA renig F aw r can,du e t o t h eir relat iv e iso lat io n,be seen fro m alm o st ev ery m ajo r peak in t h e nat io nalpark. A t 2,801ft/85 4 m it ispro bably t h equ iet est big m o u nt ain in Sno w do nia. Y G arn o n t h e no rt h side o fC w m Pry so rm ay be sm all bo t h in g irt h and in h eig h t ,bu t like C arreg y -saet h it isru g g ed.M u ch o ft h e u pper slo pesco nsist o fa m ix o fcrag and h eat h er w it h rides o ft u sso cky g rass bo rdering st ream s. Th ese o ffer easier w ay s t h ro u g h t h ero u g h est t errain.O n t h eso u t h sideo ft h e m o u nt ain ju st belo w t h epeakisCast ellPry so r,aW elsh

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m ediev alm o t t e and bailey cast leset o n a nat u ralro ck o u t cro p.H o w ev erY G arn’sm o st o bv io u sfeat u re fro m do w n belo w is m an m ade,t h e o ld G reat W est ern Railw ay line,w h ich linked Bala w ith Traw sfy ny dd and Blaenau F fest inio g .Th e railw ay h asbeen cu t int o t h e ro ck faces – a m arv ello u s feat o f Vict o rian eng ineering .Th e v iadu ct spanning t h e infant A fo n Pry so r h asnine brickarch esand is105 ft/32m abo v e t h e riv erat itsh ig h est po int .Th e railw ay ,w h ich clo sed

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in 1961,o ffersa fine fo o t pat h and m akesg o o d circu lar ro u t es po ssible.Y G arn’s su m m it h as t h e t iniest o f cairnspeeping sh y ly fro m t h eh eat h er.F ro m h ere y o u r ey escan m eander aro u nd t h e sinu o u ssh o relineso f L ly n y G arn,w h o se apparent siz e co m esasa su rprise ev en t h o u g h it ’srepresent ed o n allt h e m aps.A g ain y o u see t h e big A renig bu t ju st t o t h e rig h t are t w o v ery ru g g ed slig h t ly lo w er peaks,bo t h o fw h ich are seldo m clim bed.


H ill W a lk in g B e lo w : Rh o b e ll-y -b ig r is e s a b o v e C w m y r A llt-lw y d To p r ig h t:C lim b in g th e � n a l slo p e s o f Rh o b e ll-y -b ig R ig h t: O n th e n o r th r id g e o f D d u a llt B o tto m r ig h t: D d u a llt fr o m C w m y r A llt-lw y d

Rh o bellF aw rand itsslig h t ly lo w erneig h bo u rDdu allt are v o lcanic and bo t h lo o kdo w n o n Bala’slake,L ly n Teg id.Rh o bellF aw r isqu ite bu lky and h aph az ard in it sfo rm ,bu t t h e sh o rt g rassesin bet w een t h e crag s m ake t h is a delig h t fu lsu m m it t o clim b,especially fro m L lanfach ret h in t h e so u t h , w h ere ancient h ig h w ay s t ake y o u qu it e h ig h o nt o it s sh o u lder. Ddu allt isg enerally h arderw o rk,alth o u g h t h ere’so ne easy ish ro u t e fro m t h e lo nely C w m y rA llt-lw y d in t h e

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B e lo w : � e v ie w n o r th to w a r d s A r e n ig F a w r a n d L ly n Te g id (B a la L a k e ) fr o m th e s u m m it o f D d u a llt R ig h t: D d u a llt fr o m C w m y r A llt-lw y d

u pperM aw ddach v alley .Ify o u area ro m ant ic y o u m ay nev er g et t h ere fro m t h isdirect io n asDdu allt lo o ks u ninv it ing and ju st t o y o u r rig h t t h ere’s ano t h er o f t h o se litt le peaksw ith at t itu de.It ’sRh o bell-y -big ,t h e po int ed peako ft h e saddle.Th ispro m inent py ram id o fbasalt ro ckpro t ru ding fro m t h e no rt h ern slo peso f Rh o bellF aw r issu es a ch alleng e t o t h e w alker w h o seest h o se crag st o w ering abo v e t h e h eat h er slo pes o f t h e v alley .Th ere are no realpat h s u p t h e final crag g y diadem bu t g rass and h eat h er sh elv es and litt lero ckblu ffsm aket h e clam bert o t h esu m m it a jo y t o u ndert ake.

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If,h o w ev er,y o u did m ake it t o Ddu allt fro m C w m y r A llt-lw y d y o u ’llberew arded.J u st ast h em ap pro m ises, t h e east face,kno w n as Daear Sinc,is crag g y and precipit o u s:it ’s a bit like t h e t o p o fTry fan w it h it s sh eer ro ckbu t t ressesju t t ing o u t fro m a w ide,flat sea o f h eat h er and m o ss like an u pt u rned sh ip’s h u ll. Ddu allt is o ne o fSno w do nia’s g reat places t h o u g h so m e o fit s appeallies in t h e h eart and so u lrat h er t h an in co ld lo g ic.It ist ranqu iland lo nely fo r a st art . Th e landscapesare big w ith w ide skies,litt le-kno w n v iew so fnearby crag sand dist ant w ell-rem em bered peaks fro m new ang les. Th e flat m arsh y g ro u nd beneat h t h e cliffsg iv esbirt h t o t w o g reat riv ers;t h e


H ill W a lk in g

17


H ill W a lk in g Dee,kno w n ast h e D y frdw y in t h ese part s, and t h e M aw ddach ,a su blim ely beau t ifu l riv er, w h ich flo w s do w n t o it s est u ary at Barm o u t h . Th e E iddo n, F w y and M y nach st ream s also cu t ro cky fu rro w s int o an ex t rem ely co m plex rang e o fcrag g y kno lls and ridg esand fo rest ry plant at io ns.Y o u are lo o king in t h e direct io n y o u sh o u ld h av e u sed o n an appro ach fro m t h e Bala end.Th e t rekw o u ld be difficu lt especially acro sst h at plateau bu t it’sw h at w ildest Sno w do nia isall abo u t . O h , and did I t elly o u abo u t C arn Do ch an,w h ich lieso n t h isro u t e? It ’sa g reat litt le ro ckpeakw ith a fo rt o n t o p and it ’sg o t t h isw o nderfu lv iew o f… t h ere ag ain m ay be y o u sh o u ld g o and see fo r y o u rself. * M arkTreng o v e creat ed a do w nlo adable pdffile o ft h e list w ith h eig h t sdro psand g rid references. h t t ps://sites.g o o g le.co m /site/ eu ro peaklist /H o m e/u nited-king do m / w ales--cy m ru

M o r e in f o r m a t io n J o h n G illh am 'sfo u r-v o lu m e g u ide t o t h e h illsand m o u nt ainso fSno w do nia ispu blish ed by F rancesL inco ln. Th e g u ide co v erseach h ill/m o u nt ain in det ailand illu st rat est h e ro u t e w ith a 3D line draw ing by t h e au t h o r. A sam ple ro u t e t aken fro m Vo lu m e 3 can be fo u nd in t h e G reat W alkssect io n o n Pag e 5 6 . Vo lu m e 1 Th e N o rt h ern Peaksco v erst h e C arneddau ,G ly derau ,M o elSiabo d and N ant g w y nant H ills(ISBN 978-0-7112-2973-0) Vo lu m e 2 Th eW est ern Peaksco v ersSno w do n,E ifio ny dd and Rh ino g h ills (ISBN 978-0-7112-306 2-0) Vo lu m e 3 Th e E ast ern Peaksco v erst h e M ig neint ,F fest inio g h ills,A renig and Berw y ns (ISBN 978-0-7112-3135 -1) Vo lu m e 4 Th e So u t h ern Peaksco v ersC ader Idris,Tarrens,A ransand H irnant H ills(ISBN 978-0-7112-3136 -8)

A ll r e t a il a t £ 12.9 9 F rancesL inco ln w w w .franceslinco ln.co m

18


Pa r a d is e f o u n d ?

Pa r a d is e

fo u n d ?

I

T m u st be t h e u ltim at e aim o fallh ill-g o erst o liv e w ith in siteo ft h e m o u nt ainsand t o beablet o o pen t h e cu rt ainsev ery m o rning and g az e o u t o n peaks clim bed and t h o sey et t o beco nqu ered.To act u ally be able t o bu y a pro pert y am o ng t h o se sam e h illsin a v alley su ch as say O g w en in Sno w do nia,m u st be a U t o pia t o be o nly dream ed o f. Im ag ine t h en t h e pro spect o fno t o nly liv ing am o ng t h e m o u nt ainsbu t o fact u ally bu y ing o ne t o o . Im po ssible t o co m preh end? W ellasfar fet ch ed asit m ay be seem t o y o u o r I in t h e v ast ly o v er inflat ed pro pert y price w o rld o ft h e early 21st cent u ry ,t h at is ex act ly w h at Th o m asF irbank,t h e au t h o ro ft h eclassic Sno w do nia bo o k‘Ibo u g h t A M o u nt ain’,w asable t o do . In 1933,at t h e su rprising ly y o u ng ag eo f21,h ebo u g h t t h e h illfarm o fDy ffry n M y m by r near C apelC u rig alo ng w ith appro x im at ely 2,5 00 acreso fland,w h ich inclu ded a v ast ch u nko ft h eG lyderin w h at isno w t h e Sno w do nia N at io nalPark.

F o r w h at t o u sseem st h e ridicu lo u sprice o f£ 4 ,6 25 plu st h e v alu e o ft h e resident sh eep flo ck,o u r h ero , fresh ly arriv ed backfro m Canada,bu y sh im selfa ro o m w ith a v iew t h at m o st o fu sw illnev er g et ifw e liv e t o be a h u ndred. L ist en t o F irbank’sdescript io n o fdriv ing backin t h e darkt o Dy ffry n M y m by r after a v isit t o t h e indu st rial part so fL ancash ire.“ W e dro v e u p o u r v alley at last as t h e m o o n cam e o u t o v er Siabo d.St arsw inked in and o u t asdriftso fclo u d play ed idly o v ert h em .Th e m o o n lit a sh im m ering bro ad t rackacro sst h e lakesand t h e riv erbecam e a lu m ino u sribbo n.Th e beau t y t o o ko u r breat h aw ay … … .” A nd w h y sh o u ldn’t it? M any w alkersdism iss‘Ibo u g h t A M o u nt ain’asbeing m erely a t ale o f sh eep farm ing in o ne o ft h e m o st ru g g ed part so fN o rt h W ales.Bu t t h ey are w ro ng . A llw h o h av e read t h isbo o kh av e been ent ranced by it s descript io n o flife in Sno w do nia in t h e decade leading u p t h eo u t breako ft h e Seco nd W o rld W arand

19


D y � r y n M y m b y r a n d th e p e a k s o f th e Sn o w d o n Ho r s e sh o e P h o to : C a r l Ro g e r s

S t e v e G o o d ie r lo o k s a t � o m a s Fir b a n k 's c la s s ic a c c o u n t o f life o n a h ill fa r m in th e s h a d o w o f S n o w d o n m o st w h o v isit t h e m o u nt ainsh ere h av e h eard o fit . F o r t h o se w h o h av e no t read it y et t h ere is an enjo y able read aw ait ing t h at is no t sim ply abo u t farm ing bu t abo u t a w ay o flife,abo u t liv ing am o ng t h e m o u nt ains,o fbeco m ing o ne w ith t h em ,o fbeing t reat ed h arsh ly by t h em and o ft h e spirit u allesso ns o ne can learn fro m t h em . F o r allw h o lo v e W elsh m o u nt ainst h ere isso m et h ing o fbeau t y in t h ese pag es.Placeskno w n w ellw illbe described and seen in a new lig h t ast h ro u g h t h eey es o fo ne w h o w o rked t h island and no t ju st o ne w h o passest h ro u g h o n a day ’sclim bing am o ng t h e h ills. Do n’t be fo o led int o t h inking t h is is no t a w alking bo o k.Th o m asF irbankw asa fit and act iv e y o u ng m an w it h g reat am bit io ns.H e bo u g h t Dry ffy n M y m by r w it h no farm ing ex perience at alland m anag ed t o set t le int o a landscape w ith peo ple,w h o at t h at t im e w erequ iteinsu larand su spicio u so fst rang ers.A nd y et h ere h e m ade m any friends,m et and m arried h isw ife and spent sev en y earslearning t o farm ,t o defy t h e w eat h ert h at besieg ed t h earea o n a reg u larbasis,and t o w alk and clim b t h e m ag nificent h ills t h at su rro u nded h isnew h o m e. F o r t h ese reaso ns,and fo r t h e epic descript io n o ft h e reco rd breaking at t em pt h e and h isfriendsm ade o n t h e W elsh 3,000 fo o t m o u nt ainsro u nd,Ican t h inko f no o t h er bo o k t h at epit o m ises W elsh h illco u nt ry , W elsh w ay sand W elsh beau t y in su ch a w ay .

20

I’llbet y o u ’v e passed Dy ffry n M y m by r a do z en t im es asy o u h av e left C apelC u rig t o driv e t o Peny -Passfo r a day o n Sno w do n,o r lo o ked do w n o n it fro m t h e su m m it o fM o elSiabo d w h ich iso ppo site acro sst h e v alley .M ay be y o u h av e clim bed t h e G ly ders u p t h e M inersTrackfro m t h e Pen-y -G w ry d H o t el.Ifso y o u w ere w alking o n land t h at Th o m asF irbankbo u g h t , farm ed and t ram ped o v er. A nd no w y o u h av e t h e ch ance t o pu t so m e backg ro u nd o nt o y o u r adv ent u res. Th ere are no t m any bo o kst h at lo o kat o u r m o u nt ainsfro m su ch a u niqu e ang le.A lo t o fo u r m o dern ‘h illg o ing ’ bo o ks t ello fepic lo ng day s t rav ersing su m m it s,bu t few sh o w u s t h e lev elo fbackg ro u nd and dem o nst rat e su ch a t o t alinv o lv em ent in t h e landscape o ft h e area ast h iso ne do es. F irbankw asa v ery descript iv e w riter w h o felt deeply fo r t h e w o rld aro u nd h im and becam e so v ery t u ned int o it.H e believ ed,after liv ing in t h e farm fo r so m e t im e,t h at Dy ffry n h ad a so u lo fitso w n t h at t ied y o u t o t h e place and prev ent ed y o u fro m leav ing . Deep st u ff,bu t m o u nt ainscan h av e a st rang e affect o n u s and t o liv e am o ng t h em in an ancient farm h o u se t h at h as a h ist o ry g o ing backcent u ries m u st be a rich ly rew arding and so m ew h at h u m bling ex perience. Th e N at io nalTru st h asdescribed Dy ffry n M y m by r as


H o r s e s & Co m m Pa u n rita yd W is eo of od ulan nd d? ‘a v ery specialplace,set in o neo fW ales’m o st dram at ic landscapes.’Th at ,It h ink,ev en ifa lit t le u nderst at ed, su m st h e w h o le place u p pret t y w ell. W h o h asn’t st o pped t h e carafterdriv ing o u t o fC apel C u rig at t h e t w in lakeso fL ly nau M y m by r ju st after Plasy Brenin t o g az e in aw e at t h e aw eso m e pro spect o fSno w do n and itsincredible h o rsesh o e? Th enex t t im ey o u do ,asy o u lo o kdo w n t h e v alley t h e farm h o u se o fD y ffry n M y m by r is u p o n y o u r rig h t am o ng t h e lit t le t ree plant at io n. It iso w ned t o day by t h e N at io nalTru st ,bequ eat h ed t o t h em by E sm e and Pet erK irby ,E sm eK irby w asbo rn E sm e C u m m ins and m arried Th o m as F irbank and farm ed w it h h im at D y ffry n du ring t h e y ears o f‘I bo u g h t A M o u nt ain’.In lat er y ears sh e m arried h er seco nd h u sband,M ajo r Pet er K irby and becam e a t ireless cam paig ner fo r co nserv at io n in t h e Sno w do nia area. In t h e 196 0s sh e fo u nded t h e Sno w do nia N at io nal Park So ciet y , w h ich lat er becam e t h e Sno w do nia So ciet y ,and w as inv o lv ed in su ch pro ject s as t h e rest o rat io n o ft h e nearly ru ined ‘U g ly H o u se’o n t h eA 5 near C apelCu rig .Sh e died ag ed 89 in 1999.Bu t it is h er part in t h e t ale o ft h e early day so flife at Dy frry n M y m by r t h at w e are prim arily co ncerned w ith h ere.

ro u t e in 1938 st o o d at 10 h o u rs and t w ent y nine m inu t es.N o w Iappreciat e t h at cu rrent ly t h e ro u nd is g et t ing do ne by fellru nnersin bet w een fo u r t o fiv e h o u rs,bu t t h isw ay befo re t h e bet t er pat h so ft o day and m o dern ru nning sh o es.Th e acco u nt in t h e bo o k o fF irbankand h isco m panio nsat t em pt t o beat t h is reco rd m akes fascinat ing reading .In t h e end po o r E sm eh ad to co ncedet h e paceo fh erh u sband and h is friendsw asju st t o o m u ch fo r h er bu t sh e set o ffo n h er o w n w it h o ne o ft h e farm ’s sh eph erds,Th o m as, and kno cked an h o u ro fft h e prev io u sreco rd.F irbank and h isco m panio nsm anag ed t o creat e a new reco rd o feig h t h o u rsand t w ent y fiv e m inu t es. F o r any o ne w h o h asst o o d o n t h e su m m it o fTry fan and g az ed in aw e at t h e A 5 t h reading a t h in line t h o u g h t h e O g w en Valley 2.000 feet belo w ,t h ish as g o t t o be a m u st read. In t raining ,o ne o fF irbank’sco m panio nsm anag ed t o g et t h e descent fro m A dam and E v e o n Try fan’s su m m it t o t h e t arm ac o n t h e A 5 do w n t o 13 m inu t es. Ih av e m ade so m e pret t y fast descent so fTry fan,bu t t h ispu t sallm y endeav o u rsint o so m e so rt o fco nt ex t . Th irt een m inu t es! Th inkabo u t it.Th ese w ere fit m en and o ne v ery fit w o m an t o bo o t .

E sm e w asan act ressand a g o lfplay er o fso m e no t e w h en Th o m as F irbankm et and m arried h er after a w h irlw ind ro m ance.Sh eret u rned w ith h im t o h isfarm and ex celled at t h e w o rkt h ere.Sh e w asdescribed by F irbankas‘elfin’ bu t w asast o u g h and fit ast h e m en sh e h ad t o w o rkw ith . Sh e h elped o u t in t h e day t o day ru nning o ft h e farm asw ellasbeing a reg u larco m panio n t o t h e au t h o ro n h is t rips int o t h e m o u nt ains and t h e clim bing ex peditio nsh e u ndert o o k. Sh e appeared t o be a clim ber o fno t e ifF irbank’s descript io n o ft h e ascent o fL o ckw o o d’sC h im ney in t h e G w y nant Valley isany t h ing t o g o by . A nd h er part icipat io n in t h e at t em pt t o breakt h e reco rd fo r t h e t rav erse o ft h e W elsh 3,000 fo o t peaks sh o w ed sh e w asast o u g h ,ifno t t o u g h er,t h an m o st m en. Th isch apt er alo ne m akesit w o rt h w h ile g et t ing h o ld o ft h is bo o k.Th e reco rd w h en t h ey at t em pt ed t h e

‘Ibo u g h t A M o u nt ain’isa t ru ly delig h t fu lbo o k,a st o ry o fendeav o u rand ach iev em ent ag ainst o v erw h elm ing o dds in aw eso m e su rro u nding and ag ainst u nbeliev able w eat h er. Ify o u lo v e Sno w do nia y o u w illado re t h isbo o k.Th ere

21


Pa r a d is e f o u n d ?

h av e been nu m ero u s edit io ns do w n t h e y ears and m any o ft h e o u t do o r sh o psand new sag ent s in t h e area st illh av e co pies.Ify o u are h av ing t ro u ble,y o u r lo callibrary w illalm o st certainly beablet o t rackdo w n a co py and it ’salw ay sw o rt h t ry ing seco nd h and bo o k st o res.O n line,A m az o n h av e co pies,and t ry g iv ing w w w .abebo o ks.co .u ka g o ast h ey are alw ay sa g reat so u rce o fseco nd h and m at erial. So w asit really Paradise F o u nd? It cert ainly so u nded likeit.E sm eseem ed liket h eperfect w ife,t h e farm w as in a U t o pian lo cat io n,F irbankw asy o u ng and fit and v ery fo rw ard t h inking . H e co m plet ed ‘I bo u g h t A M o u nt ain’ at C at erh am w h ile h e w as t raining at t h e G u ards Depo t t o fig h t w it h o t h er y o u ng m en in t h e Seco nd W o rld W ar.H e w ent o n t o w in a M ilit ary C ro ss and saw act io n in N o rt h A frica and It aly. Bu t h e nev er ret u rned t o D y ffry n M y m by r after t h e w ar.Th eu nbreakablespellt h at h ad bo u nd h im t o t h e place snapped and h islife w ent in o t h er direct io ns.

22

E sm e w asfo rced t o let t h e farm h o u se and endu red h ard t im esassh e st ru g g led t o pay fo r t h e h elp t h e farm needed. Sh e and F irbankdiv o rced and sh e lat er m arried h er seco nd h u sband,M ajo r K irby ,w h o h ad been ru nning a bat t le cam p in t h e area. Th e m o u nt ains seem nev er ch ang ing , t h e o ld farm h o u se is st illt h ere, bu t t h e peo ple w h o liv e am o ng t h em pro v ide t h e m o st int rig u ing st o ry lines o fall. It so u nded like 'Paradise F o u nd' and m ay be fo rt h o se sev en y earsit w as.E ith erw ay ,it h asleft u sw ith a v iv id and u nriv alled descript io n o flife in Sno w do nia in t h e 1930s,and a w o nderfu lfireside read t o delv e int o ev ery t im e w e seem far fro m t h e m o u nt ainso n co ld w int er nig h t s and need a g ent le rem inder o f t h e m ag nificence t h at isalw ay st h ere fo r u s.


A u th o r a n d p u b lis h e r C a r l R o g e r s ta k e s a lo o k a t o n e o f th e m o s t s p e c ta c u la r s e c tio n s o f th e n e w W a le s C o a s t Pa th .

ďż˝ e W a le s C o a s t Pa th

O n th e slo p e s o f M y n y d d A n e lo g

23


“… w ith th e la u n C o a s t Pa th b a c k e n tir e c o a s t o f W a c c e s s ib le to th e

c h o f th e n e w W a le s in M a y th is y e a r, th e a le s is n o w w a lk e r ”

O n e o f th e fo o tp a th im p r o v e m e n ts a t Po r th L la n lla w e n

U

nt ilrecent ly,A ng lesey enjo y ed t h e lio n’ssh are o fqu ality co ast alw alking in N o rt h W alesw ith it s su perb co ast al pat h and spect acu lar scenery .Bu t w ith t h e lau nch o ft h e new W alesCo ast Pat h backin M ay t h isy ear,t h e ent ire co ast o fW alesis no w accessible t o t h e w alker.Beg inning in t h e no rt h o n t h e C h esh ire bo rder near C h est er, it m akes a co nt inu o u scircu it o ft h e co ast o fW alest o finish near C h epst o w o n t h e Sev ern est u ary - an incredible 870 m ileso r 1,4 00km .

24

Th e ent ire pat h isno t new o fco u rse -sect io nso ft h e co ast h av e h ad w ell-est ablish ed co ast alpat h s fo r m any y ears.Th e Pem bro kesh ire C o ast alPat h is t h e o ldest and t h e o nly sect io n t o cu rrent ly enjo y N at io nalTrailst at u s.F u rt h er no rt h ist h e C eredig io n Co ast Pat h ,beg inning in Bo rt h o n t h eDy fiest u ary and linking w it h t h e Pem bro kesh ire C o ast al Pat h at C ardig an.A nd o fco u rse in N o rt h W alesw e h av e t h e Isleo fA ng lesey Co ast alPat h ,w h ich m akesa co m plet e circu it o ft h e island in aro u nd 125 m iles.


Co a s t a l W a lk in g It seem sm o st likely t h at t h em ajo rity o fu sersw illw alk sect io nso ft h e pat h ast h e fu ll870 m ilesw illrequ ire a larg e inv est m ent o ft im e -so m et h ing like six t o eig h t w eeks! Pem bro kesh ire w illno do u bt co nt inu e t o at t ract t h e m o st v isito rsw ith itsN at io nalTrailst at u s and A ng lesey and C eredig io n are already w ellkno w n and h av e t h eir o w n o fficialg u ides. Bu t w h at o ft h e rest ? Th e spect acu lar co ast o fL ley n h as lo ng been a fav o u rite o f m ine and a recent co m m issio n t o pro du ce o ne o f t h e new O fficial G u ides t o t h e L ley n Peninsu la sect io n o ft h e W ales Co ast Pat h g av e m e an ex cu se t o w alko ne o ft h e best sect io ns. Th e v ery t ip o fL ley n -t h inko fit ast h e‘L and’sE nd’o f N o rt h W ales- isa bro ad squ are h eadland kno w n as U w ch m y ny dd.It ispo ssibly o ne o ft h e m o st t reeless placesin W ales,itsflat g reen fieldsseparat ed by lo w , eart h -co v ered st o new allskno w n asclaw dd.Th ey g iv e t h e landscape a dist inct iv e,g eo m et ric lo o kw it h no t rees o r ev en bu sh es t o so ften t h is w ind-bat t ered plat fo rm o n t h e brinko ft h e Irish Sea. A berdaro n ist h e o nly set t lem ent o fany no t e in t h is far-flu ng co rner.Despite itssiz e it h asbeen firm ly o n t h e m ap since t h e M iddle A g es as t h e penu ltim at e dest inat io n o n w h at in it s day w o u ld h av e been an ardu o u sand dang ero u sjo u rney — t h e Pilg rim ag e t o Y ny sE nllio r Bardsey .Bardsey lieso fft h e so u t h w est t ip o fL ley n,t h e last in a line o fdist inct iv e co ast h ills t h at ru n t h e fu llleng t h o ft h e peninsu la.Th e lo w land bet w een w asflo o ded assea lev elsro se in preh ist o ry and t o day - alth o u g h lit t le m o re t h an a m ile o r t w o separat eit fro m t h e m ainland,it ispo ssibly o neo ft h e m o st dang ero u s st ret ch es o f w at er o n t h e W elsh co ast .Pilg rim s arriv ed at A berdaro n and w ait ed fo r su itable w eat h er fo r t h e finalleg o ft h eir jo u rney and no do u bt t h e lo calsm ade a g o o d liv ing asrelent less g alesand st o rm y seasex t ended t h eir st ay .

Th ere h av e been m o v es t o creat e a co ast alpat h aro u nd t h e L ley n Peninsu la t o o ,bu t itsdev elo pm ent h asbeen slo w er t h an A ng lesey and t h e ro u t e o n t h e g ro u nd w asinco m plet e u nt ilt h e lau nch o ft h eW ales C o ast Pat h .F o r dram a and st u nning scenery L ley n o ffersA ng lesey so m e serio u sco m pet itio n.Th e L ley n sect io n o ft h e W ales Co ast Pat h st art s fro m Bang o r and finish es at Po rt h m ado g . E n-ro u t e it passes t h ro u g h so m e v aried scenery ,inclu ding t h e h ig h est po int o n t h e ent ire pat h - Bw lch Y r E ifl— bet w een Trefo r and N efy n at alm o st 300 m et res.

A berdaro n is st illa g reat place t o ling er. Th ere is a lo v ely beach h ere and alth o u g h t h e su m m er v isito rs flo o d in fo r a sh o rt h o liday seaso n, fo r m u ch o ft h e t im e it isalm o st em pt y .M ay be t h e new co ast alpat h w ill ch ang e t h ing s bring ing m o re ‘pilg rim s’ t h ro u g h o u t t h e y ear. Iarriv ed in early M ay in g lo rio u sw eat h er t o find t h e v illag ealm o st deserted.Th erew asa ch o iceo fparking spaces and no qu eu es in t h e t w o v illag e pu bs.M y perso nal preference is t h e Ty N ew y dd. W it h it s balco ny o v erlo o king t h e beach y o u can im ag ine

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A q u ie t e v e n in g a t A b e r d a r o n y o u rselfso m ew h ere m u ch m o re ex o t ic in t h e rig h t w eat h er. G o o d fo o d and a rang e o f lo cal beers co m plet est h e packag e. I w ant ed t o w alk t h e ent ire sect io n o fco ast fro m M y ny dd A nelo g o n t h e no rt h co ast back t o A berdaro n,a circu it o faro u nd eig h t m ilesrequ iring a sh o rt sect io n alo ng lanest o st art .Th ispart o fL ley n is so qu iet o u t o fseaso n t h at t h e t w o -m ile lane sect io n passed w ith o u t a sing le v eh icle o fany kind. A sh o rt , o v erg ro w n field pat h led u p o nt o t h e lo w er slo peso f M y ny dd A nelo g w h ere Iw asable t o jo in t h e co ast al pat h . M y ny dd A nelo g is an area o f co m m o n land w it h g rand v iew sand a scat t ering o ft iny co t t ag esperch ed o n t h e edg e o ft h e cliffso v erlo o king C aernarfo n Bay . I co u ldn’t resist a lo o kt h ro u g h o ne o ft h e co t t ag e w indo w sasw epassed by .It lo o ked likeev ery au t h o r’s dream ret reat .Tw o t iny ro o m sw ith ro u g h sto ne flo o rs separat ed by ancient w o o d panelling .Th e bedro o m s w ere t u cked int o t h e lo w ro o fspace reach by an o ld ladder.

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O u t sidet h erew eret w o bleach ed ch airsand a blo cko f st o ne u sed asa t able.Th e v iew reach ed no rt h east u p t h e fu llleng t h o f L ley n t o t h e dist ant sky line o f Sno w do nia. “ Ibet it ’sm iserable h ere in t h e w int er,” I m u t t ered t o m y selft ry ing u nsu ccessfu lly t o find so m et h ing neg at iv e abo u t t h e place. A st iff no rt h -east erly h it u s as w e ro u nded t h e seaw ard side o fM y ny dd A nelo g w h ere a new sect io n o fpat h co nt o u rsh ig h abo v e t h e sea w ith ex panding v iew s w est t o M y ny dd M aw r and Bardsey .Th is is co ast alw alking at itsbest t o riv alany t h ing in N o rt h W ales.Th e pat h h ad im pro v ed since m y last v isit m aking t h e circu it o f Po rt h L lanllaw en st raig h t fo rw ard. Ico u ld see w h ere new sect io nso f pat h w ere being fo rm alised in t h e clim b t o M y ny dd M aw r,an area o fo pen,h eat h ery h illto p w it h an o ld co ast g u ard lo o ko u t o n itssu m m it. Th e o ld bu ilding s pro v ided sh elter fro m t h e w ind allo w ing u sto takein th estu nning situ atio n 15 0 m etres abo v et h ew av es.O n alo v ely su m m erev ening Bardsey ‘flo at s’in a g o lden sea set ag ainst t h e set t ing su n.


Co a s t a l W a lk in g

Th enex t sectio n o fth epath takesy o u do w n acro ssth e g reen g assy plat fo rm abo v e Saint M ary ’sW ell.Th isisa squ are-cu t ro ckplat fo rm t h at y o u need a t rained ey e t o ident ify ,bu t is repu t ed t o h av e been o ne o ft h e em barkat io n po int s fo r t h e sh o rt bo at cro ssing t o Bardsey . Bet w een h ere and Pen y C il,t h e so u t h ernm o st t ip o fU w ch m y ny dd,t h epat h cro sseslo v ely,o pen co ast alh eat h w ith g rand v iew so u t t o Bardsey . L o o k o u t fo rpo rpo ise and sealsalo ng t h isst retch . Bey o nd Pen y Cil,t h e co ast t u rnseast o n t h e finalleg backt o A berdaro n.Th e pat h h ere h as alw ay s been g o o d bu t Ino t ed o ne o r t w o im pro v em entsand new sig nag e carry ing t h e W alesCo ast Pat h lo g o .Part w ay alo ng t h issect io n t h e pat h dro psst eeply t o t h e litt le inlet o fPo rt h M eu dw y ,w h ere a h o st o ffish ing bo at s, net sand lo bst er po t slet y o u kno w t h at w o rking t h e sea isst illv ery m u ch a w ay o flife h ere.Po rt h M eu dw y w asano th ero fth eem barkatio n po intsfo rBardsey and y o u can st illt ake a bo at t rip to t h e island fro m h ere. Th e finalst ret ch t o A berdaro n isalo ng a new sect io n o fpat h in fields h ig h abo v e t h e bay ,bu t I t o o km y

u su alro u t e alo ng t h e beach , fo rding t h e riv er as it fans o u t acro ss t h e sand. Th e balco ny o f t h e Ty N ew y dd m ade a g reat end t o t h e day . Th e w ind h ad dro pped and t h e o nly so u nd w ast h e play fu lch at ter o fa fam ily do w n o n t h e w at er’sedg e. F o r info rm at io n o n w alksaro u nd A berdaro n and t h e rest o fL ley n,t h e au t h o r h aspu blish ed a bo o k o fcircu lar w alksent itled:‘W alkso n t h e L ley n Peninsu la’, 22 circu lar w alksex plo ring t h e co ast and h illso ft h e L ley n Peninsu la. (ISBN 978-1-9025 12-00-6).Co piesare av ailable lo cally o r can be o rdered o nline fro m : w w w .n o r t h e r n e y e b o o k s .c o .u k C arlRo g ersisalso w o rking o n o ne o ft h e O fficial G u idest o t h e L ley n Peninsu la sect io n o ft h e W ales Co ast Pat h asw ellasa spin-o ffm inig u ide in t h e ‘W alesC o ast Pat h :To p 10 W alks,L ley n Peninsu la. A llt h ese t itlesw illbe av ailable o nline fro m : w w w .n o r t h e r n e y e b o o k s .c o .u k

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C arlRo g ers

View po int W h e re

W a lk s h e r e

L o o king so u t h east fro m t h e o ld co ast g u ard lo o ko u t at Rh o sco ly n H ead,Isle o fA ng lesey /Y ny sM 么 n.

Isle o fA ng lesey Co ast alPat h m akesa 125 m ile circu it o f t h e island and enjo y s spect acu lar v iew s t o t h e m o u nt ainso fSno w do nia fo r m u ch o fitsleng t h . M o re info :O fficialG u idebo o kand circu larw alksbo o k av ailable:w w w .no rt h erney ebo o ks.co .u k w w w .ang lesey co ast alpat h .co .u k w w w .w alesco ast pat h .co .u k

Gr id r e f e r e n c e SH 26 4 75 3 (E x plo rer m ap 26 2)

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Vie w p o in t

Why? Iw o nder h o w m any readersreco g nised t h isv iew at first g lance,o r m ay be y o u t h o u g h t it h ad t h e lo o ko f so m e rem o t e co rnero ft h eSco t t ish H ig h landsw ith its w ide sea v iew s,islandsand dist ant blu e m o u nt ains? F o r m e t h e v iew o fSno w do nia'sm o u nt ainsand t h e sh apely lit t le h ills o fL ley n fro m t h e w est co ast o f A ng lesey alw ay s h as t h e feelo fso m ew h ere m o re rem o t e.Isu ppo se,o n m ainland Britain,it iso nly in t h e Sco t t ish H ig h lands and h ere in t h is t iny co rner o f W alest h at y o u h av e su ch a w o nderfu lco m binat io n o fm o u nt ains and sea.W h en t h e air clears and t h e clo u dslift,t h ish o riz o n-t o -h o riz o n pano ram a o fh ills can be t ru ly breat h t aking . Th e su m m er m o nt h sare g enerally no t t h e best t im e o fy ear fo r clarit y bu t t h isph o t o g raph w ast aken in

J u ly 2012 du ring a rare h andfu l o f day s w h en it act u ally felt like su m m er! Being predo m inant ly flat , A ng lesey h as v ery few placesw h ere y o u can enjo y a raised pano ram a like t h is,bu t t h e o ld co ast g u ard lo o ko u t at Rh o sco ly n H ead isan ex cept io n.It isw ellsitu at ed fo ritspu rpo se and enjo y san u nint erru pt ed 180 deg ree v iew fro m t h e h illso fSno w do nia t o t h e so u t h east o u t alo ng t h e serrat ed sky line o fL ley n allt h e w ay t o Bardsey Island ( Y ny sE nlli) and o u t acro sst h e Irish Sea. I'v e nev erseen t h e h illso fIreland fro m h ere bu t h av e w at ch ed t h e su n fallbeh ind t h e W icklo w M o u nt ains fro m t h e no rt h ern co ast o f L ley n, so in t h e rig h t co nditio nsy o u sh o u ld be able t o see allt h e w ay fro m Sno w do n t o t h e h illso fso u t h ern Ireland.

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Ph o to g r a p h s b y Jo Da n s o n & L o r n a Je n n e r

W a lk in g w ith

c h ild r e n L o r n a Je n n e r lo o k s a t c h a n g in g a ttitu d e s to th e o u td o o r s a n d ďż˝ n d s w a y s to k e e p y o u r little o n e s in te r e s te d o n a w a lk

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Fa m ily W a lk in g

I

W A S O N E O F TH E L A ST g enerat io n o fch ildren t h at w ere allo w ed t o ro am freely o u t do o rs. F ro m as early asIcan rem em ber,Iw asallo w ed t o ‘play o u t ’ allday w it h y o u ng friends and sibling s,play ing in st ream s,m aking dens,ro m ping t h ro u g h lo ng g rass, clam bering u p and do w n h o llo w s and o v er t ree t ru nks. Du ring t h e su m m er m o nt h s,Iw o u ld leav e t h e h o u se early in t h e m o rning and o nly co m e backfo r m eals.Th isw asno t in so m e ru ralidy ll bu t an E ssex o il-refining co m m u nit y and lat er in a co ast alL ancash ire t o w n.

ease in t h e co u nt ry side,co nfident t o ex plo re and appreciat iv e o f t h e nat u ral w o rld. So ciet y h as ch ang ed g reat ly sincet h en and few ch ildren are g iv en t h efreedo m t h at w eh ad.Traffic isperh apst h ebig g est issu e, bu t t h e risk o f ch ild abu se and t h e pu llo f elect ro nic g am es, co m pu t ers and t elev isio n are also m ajo r fact o rs. So m e m o dern ch ildren are co nst ant ly sh ipped fro m o ne o rg anised act iv it y t o t h e nex t w it h lit t le t im e fo r u nst ru ct u red o u t do o r play .O t h ersspend h o u rs indo o rs g lu ed t o t h eir g am es co nso le o r t h e t elev isio n.F ew o ft h ese ch ildren g et t h e ch ance t o g o o ff t o ex plo re t h e w o o ds,t o clam ber o n ro ckso r t o bike alo ng a canal t o w pat h ,st o pping t o cat ch st icklebacks.

'Fe w c h ild r e n g e t th e c h a n c e to g o o � to e x p lo r e th e w o o d s , to c la m b e r o n r o c k s o r to b ik e a lo n g a c a n a l to w p a th '

M y ex periencew asno t u nu su alasm o st o fm y friends h av e sim ilarm em o riesand it isev en st ro ng eram o ng m y parent ’sg enerat io n.O ne elderly lady described h er ch ildh o o d in H alky n,F lint sh ire.‘W e didn’t h av e m any t o y sbu t t h at didn’t m at t er ast h e w h o le o ft h e m o u nt ain w aso u r play g ro u nd.’ M y g enerat io n and t h o se befo re m e w ere nat u rally at

M any y o u ng peo plew ereint ro du ced t o t h e o u t do o rs t h ro u g h t h e y o u t h m o v em ent s– G u ides,Sco u t s,Bo y s and G irlsBrig ades.Th isw aspart icu larly im po rt ant fo r y o u ng st ersg ro w ing u p in citiesw h o m ig h t o t h erw ise h av e h ad no ch ance t o ex perience t h e co u nt ry side.

31


O ne fo rm er sco u t fro m Birkenh ead,lo v est o describe h isnu m ero u sw eekend t ripsw ith friendsint o N o rt h W ales in t h e 195 0s and 6 0s,g et t ing t h e bu s fro m L iv erpo o lt o L o g g erh eadsand nav ig at ing acro sst h e C lw y dian Rang e fro m t h ere,cam ping at farm s en ro u t e.Th eseearly ex periencesg av eh im a lifelo ng lo v e o fw alking ,secu re in t h e kno w ledg e t h at h e h ad t h e skillst o ex plo re m o u nt aino u sareasw ith co nfidence. U nfo rt u nat ely t h ese o rg anisat io nsh av e lo st su ppo rt o v er t h e past decadesand,u ndo u bt edly,h av e left a realg ap. A s a resu lt o f t h is co m binat io n o f fact o rs, m any m o dern ch ildren are u nsu re abo u t t h e o u t do o rsand perh apsneed m o re enco u rag em ent t h an w e did t o g o w alking .Readerso ft h ism ag az ineareallto o aw are o ft h e g reat benefitst h at it can reap bu t h o w can w e sw itch ch ildren o n t o t h epleasu reso fw alking and t h e m ag ic o ft h e co u nt ry side? It isim po rt ant t h at t h eir first ex periencesare fu n and m em o rable so w e need t o inject a sense o fadv ent u re and m ag ic int o t h o se first w alks.

32

C o m fo rt is really im po rt ant .M y first ex perience o f serio u sfell-w alking w asno t inspiring – clam bering u p Co nist o n O ld M an o n a w et day asa 12 y earo ld G u ide in a leaky ,sw eat y cag o u le,u nco m fo rt able bo o t sand denim jeans.E v ery st ep w as painfu las t h e denim ch affed m y w et t h ig h s and m y blist ers g rew ev er big g er.Idid no t feela senseo felat io n o rach iev em ent sitt ing sh iv ering in t h e m ist at t h et o p,ju st a pro fo u nd sense o freliefw h en w e finally reach ed t h e co ach at t h e bo t t o m !Th e leaderssh o u ld h av e h ad m o re sense t h an t o t ake a g ro u p o fill-equ ipped y o u ng st ersu p t h e m o u nt ain w h en w e w ere w et t o beg in w ith and t h e v isibilit y w aspo o r.It w aspro bably safe eno u g h bu t t h ere w asno jo y in it -no w ide v iew so r sense o f freedo m ,ju st a lo ng h ard slo g w it h m y h ead do w n and w at er dripping do w n m y neck. W it h h indsig h t ,I realise t h at t h ere w ere plent y o f g o o d lo w land o pt io nsalo ng t h e lakeside o r t h ro u g h t h e fo rest t h at w o u ld h av e left u s y o u ng st ers far h appier and eag er fo r m o re.


Fa m ily W a lk in g Th o se u npleasant m em o riesst ay ed w ith m e a lo ng t im e and,alth o u g h m y lo v e fo r t h e co u nt ry side nev er w aned,I rem ained a fair w eat h er,lo w land w alkerfo rm any y ears.It w asno t u nt ilm y 30st h at I st art ed t o really enjo y t h e ex h ilarat io n o fclim bing big g er su m m it s and by t h at t im e I w as w ellequ ipped w it h t rackst ers, fleeces and G o rt ex w at erpro o fs!C h ildren h av e a farg reat erch anceo f h av ing a g o o d t im eift h ey arepro perly kitt ed o u t . M o dern o u t do o r clo t h ing is brig h t ly co lo u red, v ery co m fo rt able and appealing t o y o u ng st ers and can o ften be bo u g h t qu it e ch eaply at t h e endlessdisco u nt sh o psand o u t let v illag es. Try and m akew alking a so cialo ccasio n by t aking alo ng friends o r m eet ing ano t h er fam ily – a g ro u p o fch ildren w illu su ally h av e m o re fu n t h an a so lit ary ch ild and need far less m o t iv at io n! N eedless t o say , t ake plent y o f snacksand allo w fo r plent y o fst o ps. C h o o se y o u r ro u t e carefu lly.It sh o u ld be fairly sh o rt ,perh aps1-2 m iles,g radu ally bu ilding t o 3-4 m iles,w it h v aried t errain and plent y o f feat u reso fint erest alo ng t h e w ay . W o o dland is alw ay s a w inner – brilliant fo r h ide and seek,kicking u p leav es,h u nt ing fo r m inibeast s and bu ilding sh elters.W at er is alw ay san at t ract io n,part icu larly w h en it is sh allo w and t h ey can w ade in o r t ry and cat ch w at er creat u res, bu t ju st feeding du cks o r t h ro w ing pebblesin isfu n t o o . W h ile lo ng clim bsu p can be o ff-pu t t ing ,m o st ch ildren like t h e ch alleng e o f a sh o rt clim b.F o r ex am ple,at L o g g erh eadsC o u nt ry Parkt h e m ain t railclim bsu p a serieso fst eep st eps t h ro u g h w o o dland t o t h e clifft o p,fro m w h ere t h ere are w ide,o pen v iew s.Th isisv ery po pu lar w ith y o u ng fam ilies as t h e ch ildren like t h e ch alleng e o f t h e ascent (and it ’sno t t o o far) fo llo w ed by t h e rew ard o f sitt ing o n t h e ro ckslo o king at t h e v iew s.Parent slike it t o o asit allo w st h e ch ildren t o u se u p so m e energ y after t h e car jo u rney !Try also t o inclu de an ex panse o fo pen g ro u nd w h ere ch ildren can ru n freely – ro lling and t u m bling do w n g rassy slo pesisalw ay sappealing ! M any o ft h e co u nt ry parksand o t h er m anag ed sites are ideal places fo r t h ese early v isit s. M o st h av e dev elo ped su rfaced sh o rt ert railst h at are su itable fo r bu g g iesso t h et o ddlerscan beinclu ded asw ell.So m e h av e ru bbing t railsand pro v ide cray o nsand paper, o t h erso ffert h em ed t rails.It h o u g h t t h e‘Po o and Paw s’ t raildev elo ped by t h eN at io nalTru st at Sno w sh illw as

33


likely t o capt u re ch ildren’s im ag inat io ns! Y o u ng E x plo rer Backpacksare av ailable at so m e sites,o ften free o fch arg e.Th e o ne o ffered at C am bridg e Bo t anic G ardens inclu des a bu g v iew er, spo t -a-lo t sh eet , bino cu lars, clipbo ard and pencils. O t h er inclu de repro du ct io n h ist o rical art efact s o r g eo lo g ical disco v ery kitsrelat ed t o t h e specific site. W ell-placed scu lpt u rescan h av ea m ag icalqu ality and y o u ng ch ildren are o ften ent ranced by an u nex pect ed fig u re in a ‘w ild’ set t ing .Th e new series o fw o o den anim alscu lpt u res at L o g g erh eads C o u nt ry Park,by art ist M ike O w ens, is pro v ing v ery po pu lar w it h y o u ng er v isito rs. M any co u nt ry side sitesru n fam ily ev ent sand h o liday pro g ram m esw h ere ch ildren can t ry backw o o ds crafts,nat u ralart o r fo llo w sim ple t rails.Th ese can be an easy w ay t o g et t h em st art ed bu t y o u can easily

34

dev elo p y o u r o w n.W h en m y bo y s w ere y o u ng er I u sed t o dev ise im pro m pt u t reasu re h u nt s,discret ely h iding ch o co lat em o ney ,w edg ed int o t h e t reebarko r in a h o llo w asw e w alked alo ng .Y o u co u ld pu t a few t o y anim alsint o y o u rbackpackand,w h en y o u need a breakin t h e w o o ds,g iv e each ch ild an anim aland ask t h em t o m akea m ini-sh eltero rnest fo rt h eircreat u re, u sing nat u ralm at erials. W h y no t t ake a lesso n fro m A ndy G o ldsw o rt h y and o t h er env iro nm ent al art ist s and enco u rag e t h e ch ildren t o m ake a piece o fnat u ralart – a pile o f pebbles,a pat t ern o fslat e frag m ent s,seedso r leav es t o beleft fo rt h enex t v isito r? Ify o u w ant t h em t o h av e so m et h ing t o t ake h o m e,t ake alo ng sm allsqu areso f card w ith st ripso fdo u ble-sided sello t ape o n so t h ey can g at h ernat u ralt h ing salo ng t h ew ay t o st icko n t o creat e a m em ent o o ft h eir w alk.


Fa m ily W a lk in g

It ’salso w o rt h lo o king int o t h e h ist o ry and fo lko re o f t h e area y o u are v isiting .W elsh fo lklo re abo u ndsw ith st o rieso fg iant s,w h o se m assiv e fo o t print sh av e left h o llo w sin t h e g ro u nd,drag o nsand o t h er m y t h ical creat u res, fairies, brav e princes and beau t ifu l princesses.Th e M abino g io n isa g reat st art ing po int bu t each area w illh av e itso w n st o ries.

J o Danso n is cu rrent ly research ing fo r a new bo o k, ‘M ag icalW alksw ith C h ildren,Vo lu m e1,Denbig h sh ire, F lint sh ireand W rex h am ’,t h at w illbepacked w ith ideas fo rfam ily w alks,inclu ding su g g est ed act iv ities.O ne o f h er ch o sen ro u t es,a circu lar w alk ex plo ring M o el A rt h u r h illfo rt in t h e C lw y dian Rang e isdescribed o n pag e 6 0.

Did a bat t le t ake place near y o u rw alk? Ist h ere a h o ly w ell? W h at did it cu re and did t h e pilg rim sseeking a cu reperfo rm st rang eritu als? A ret h ereo ld qu arrieso r ist h e g ro u nd belo w t h eir feet riddled w it h t u nnels m ade by m iners? W h o m ig h t h av e liv ed in t h e ru ins and desert ed farm h o u ses? Th e C eltic h illfo rt st h at cro w n t h e su m m it so fm any W elsh h illsco u ld be ano t h er so u rce o fint erest .Th e w ebsite o ft h e H eat h er and H illfo rt spro ject in N o rt h E ast W alesispacked w ith int erest ing info rm at io n and ideasfo r act iv it ies,inclu ding a do w nlo adable au dio t rail fo r Peny clo ddiau feat u ring ch aract ers fro m different eras in t h e life o f t h e h illfo rt (w w w .h eat h erandh illfo rt s.co .u k).

35


36


Pu m lu m o n

Th e H ills o f W a le s

th e g e n tle g ia n t o f M id W a le s

T o m H u t t o n e s c a p e s th e c r o w d s o n a to u g h w a lk o v e r M id W a le s’h ig h e s t p e a k Pe n Pu m lu m o n F a w r

37


I

T’S O F TE N SA ID t h at t h ere is no w ild land left in W alesand in a literalsense t h at ’st ru e,fro m felled fo rest s t o m ining ru ins and fro m o v er-g raz ed h illsidest o g arg ant u an fo rest ry plant at io ns,t h e t ellt ale sig nso ft h e endeav o u rso fm an are nev erh ard t o see.Bu t it ’sam az ing h o w rem o t e a placecan feelo nce y o u ’v e t u rned aw ay fro m t h e ro ad net w o rk– ev en m o re so in a m assifo fu nw elco m ing ro u g h g ro u nd, penet rat ed by ju st a few faint pat h s and v isit ed by o nly t h e m o st pio neering o fw alkers. Th e Pu m lu m o n rang e is w ild.H ard t o believ e u nt il y o u ’v e w alked t h ere bu t u ndeniable o nce y o u h av e. Th e so u t h ern flanks bu t t ag ainst C eredig io n’s m ain art ery ,t h e A 4 4 ,and g iv e t h e im pressio n o fbeing ju st ano t h er sw at h e o fg rassy ,sh eep-infest ed u pland.Bu t t h isist h e m o u nt ain’ssing leint erfacew ith civ ilisat io n,

t h e o nly o t h er ro ad t h at g et s near is a dead end sing le-t racklane t h at branch eso fft h e scenic N ant -y M o ch driv e and t erm inat esnear t h e ru st ic o ld farm bu ilding s o fM aes N ant .A nd t h is is w ild eno u g h in it self,ev en befo re y o u leav e t h e asph alt beh ind and t ru ndle do w n t h e ro cky and o ften w et t rackt o t h e co nflu ence o ft h e N ant y L ly n and t h e A fo n H eng w m . Bey o nd t h is po int y o u really feelo u t t h ere. C w m H y ddg en st rikes no rt h bet w een Banc L lech w eddm aw r and C arn H y ddg en.Th e v alley isast ranqu ila placeasy o u ’llev erv isit t h eseday sand o nly t h e pairo f qu art z blo cks m arked C errig C y fam m o d G ly ndw r – G ly ndw r’s C o v enant St o nes - h int at t h e h ist o ric sig nificance.It w aso n t h ese g rassy slo pest h at O w ain G ly ndw r’so u t nu m bered t ro o psdefeat ed H enry VI’s t ro o psand st art ed h isrise t o pro m inence.

Repro du ced by perm issio n o fO rdinance Su rv ey o n beh alfo fH M SO . © C ro w n co py rig h t (2012).A llrig h t sreserv ed.O rdinance Su rv ey L icence nu m ber 10005 296 2

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Th e H ills o f W a le s W a lk in g b e tw e e n Y G a r n a n d Pe n Pu m lu m o n F a w r

Cw m H eng w m co nt inu eseast and pro v idesa h andrail – albeit a bo g g y o ne – fo r t h e h o m ew ard leg o ft h e w alkbelo w .Bu t it ’s t h e t u m bling N ant y L ly n t h at leads int o t h e h eart o f t h e m o u nt ain, and fro m h u m ble beg inning s,a faint and bo g g y sh eep t rack t h at o ffersfew clu eso fw h at ’sin st o re,it leadst o t h e sh o reso ft h e alm o st u nex pect ed L ly n L ly g ad Rh eido l, t h e lake o f t h e ey e o f t h e Rh eido l. Th is ex po ses Pu m lu m o n,o r rat h er it s h ig h po int ,Pen Pu m lu m o n

F aw r, fro m it s best side w it h lo fty bro ken crag s plu ng ing v ert ig ino u sly int o t h e rippled w at ers.Th e dam and asso ciat ed paraph ernalia dest ro y t h e w ildernessfeelclo se t o t h e o u t let ,bu t st anding o n t h ese t h e rest o ft h e scene isidy llic. Th e v iew no rt h , u p cw m H y ddg en, is equ ally as im pressiv e,and t h e peakst h at line u p o n t h e o t h er side o ft h e N ant y M o ch reserv o irst and g u ard like fo o t

39


Pe n Pu n lu m o n F a w r

C lo s e to L ly n L ly g a d Rh e id o l,lo o k in g W e s t so ldiers.It ’s am az ing t o t h inkt h ese see ev en few er fo o t print st h an t h e m ain peaks. Th e east ern flankso ft h e m o u nt ain are v ery different ag ain.F o rest ry creepsalm o st t o t h e ridg elinein places and t h e M id W alesscenery beco m eslessdram at ic as y o u t rekeast .Bu t ev en h ere t h ere are t h ing st o see,in

40

part icu lart h eso u rceso ft w o o fW ales’sg reat est riv ers, t h e W y e and t h e Sev ern – t h e lat t er t h e lo ng est riv er in Britain.Th ey risealm o st sideby sideo n t h et u sso cky h illside bu t t h en part and fo llo w v ery different jo u rney s,m eet ing ag ain clo set o t h eSev ern C ro ssing s near C h epst o w .


Th e H ills o f W a le s Pe n L lu e st-y c a r n

F ro m t h e 75 2m su m m it,t h e ridg e ru nseast and t h en no rt h ,g radu ally linking t h e o t h er su m m itsasit g o es. A t 74 1m ,A rw y st liist h e m o st sig nificant and it also m arkst h e end o ft h e t ru e h ig h g ro u nd.L ike itst aller sibling ,ancient cairnsdefine it ssu m m it.A nd also like t h em ain peak,it ’spro pped u p by so m est eep g ro u nd t o t h e no rt h .It ’spenet rable t h o u g h and it pro v idesa

g o o d w ay o fft h e ridg e and do w n int o C w m G w erin – ano t h erst u nning v alley ,m o re rem o t e ag ain co u rt esy o fitsdist ance fro m t h e ro ad. See pag e 5 8 fo r a g u ided w alku p Pu m lu m o n.

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F ro m H ig h Places A jo u rney t h ro u g h Ireland's g reat m o u nt ains A drian H endro ff Th e H ist o ry PressIreland ISBN :978-1-84 5 88-989-0

Price:ÂŁ 25 w w w .th eh ist o ry press.ie A fterreading t h ro u g h t h isbo o kit seem sst rang et h at Ireland isbet t er kno w n fo r itsw ild w est ern co ast line t h an fo ritsm o u nt ains.In fact asso m eo ne w h o spends v ast am o u nt s o ft im e lo o king at m aps and reading bo o ks o n any t h ing t o do w it h m o u nt ains, I am su rprised at h o w lit t le I kno w abo u t Ireland's m o u nt ains. Ify o u t h o u g h t t h at Ireland h ad ju st a h andfu lo fh ills t h en y o u w illpro bably be aspleasant ly su rprised asI w as lo o king t h ro u g h t h is beau t ifu lnew bo o k by ph o t o g raph er,w rit er and m o u nt ain leader A drian H endro ff.W ith ju st o ne t rip t o Ireland u nder m y belt A drian'sbo o kh ascert ainly w h et t ed m y appet itefo ra ret u rn. Ileft Ireland w ith t h eim pressio n t h at t h erew ereso m e su perb m o u nt ains in t h e far so u t h w est and so m e ro lling h illsin t h e east .In act u alfact Ireland h as26 8 su m m itsw h ich ex ceed 6 00 m et reso fw h ich a do z en o r so t o p 3,000 feet .

42

L ike Sco t land,Ireland's m o u nt ain g ro u ps are qu it e st riking ly different ,w ith t h e ro lling 't o r-like' su m m its o ft h e east co nt rast ing w ith t h e m o re ru g g ed rang es alo ng t h ew estern co ast .Ih adn't realised t h at Do neg al w asqu ite so dram at ic,itsm ix o fm o u nt ain and co ast t ru ly breat h t aking . Th en t h ere is t h e incredible t erraced cliffso fSlig o 'sBenbu lbin and Benw iskin,and t h e w ild beau t y o fC o nnem ara. F ro m H ig h Placesispresent ed asa larg e-fo rm at co ffee t able bo o ko f24 0 pag eslav ish ly illu st rat ed w ith t h e au t h o r'sph o t o g raph s.Th e t ex t isa m ix o fanecdo t e, descript iv e and g u ide,allbeau t ifu lly w ritt en.M y o nly crit icism o ft h e bo o kist h e so ftbackco v er.It w o u ld h av e been nice t o h av e h ad a h ardbackt o pro t ect it fro m t h e frequ ent u se it isg o ing t o receiv e! Ca r l Ro g e r s


Bo o k r e v ie w s

U nju st ifiable Risk

Th e Day t h e Ro pe Bro ke

Th e st o ry o fBritish clim bing

Th et rag ic st o ry o ft h efirst ascent o ft h e M at t erh o rn

Sim o n Th o m pso n C icero ne ISBN :978-1-85 284 -6 27-5

Ro nald W C lark M ara Bo o ks ISBN :978-1-9025 12-17-4

Price:£ 20 (h ardback)

Price:£ 9.99 (paperback)

w w w .cicero ne.co .u k

w w w .no rt h erney ebo o ks.co .u k

Th isfascinat ing bo o k at t em pt st o answ er a qu est io n w h ich o ften pu z z lest h o se w h o do n't clim b (and a few w h o do ) -w h y do peo ple t ake su ch h ig h risksju st t o reach t h e t o p o fa m o u nt ain?

Th e first ascent o f t h e M at t erh o rn by th e E ng lish m an E dw ard W h y m per and h ispart y is o ne o ft h e key ev ent s in m o u nt aineering h ist o ry and bro u g h t t h e 'G o lden A g e' o f A lpinism t o an abru pt and bru t alend in 186 5 .Th is bo o kt ells t h e st o ry o f t h e ev ent s leading u p t o t h e first ascent and t h e t rag edy w h ich eng u lfed th e v ict o rio u s part y o n t h e descent .

Th ebo o klo o ksat t h isso m et im esdist u rbing qu est io n t h ro u g h t h e h ist o ry o f Brit ish clim bing ;fro m it s beg inning sin t h e early Vict o rian perio d (befo re185 4 ) t h ro u g h t h e 'G o lden A g e' o fA lpinism w h en m o st o f t h e A lpine su m m it s (su ch as t h e M at t erh o rn) w ere first clim bed, t o t h e present day . H e t o u ch es o n su bject slike'deep play '— w h erean act iv ity h asst akes so h ig h t h at po t ent ialfo r lo ss far o u t w eig h s any po tent ialfo rg ain— say ing t h at fo rclim bersat t h ev ery t o p o ft h e spo rt ,deep play isseen asrat io nalbecau se so m eo ne w h o isafraid t o die isalso afraid t o liv e.Bu t equ ally,at t h e o t h er end o ft h e scale,y o u h av e t h e w eekend clim ber w h o h as lit t le o r no int erest in breaking new g ro u nd 'pu lling backt h e inst ant h e feelst h e h eat ,bu t t h e frisso n o ffear issu fficient t o su st ain h is(o rh er) h ero ic self-im ag et h ro u g h ano t h er w o rking w eek'.I am no t ash am ed t o say t h at I see m y selfin t h at last st at em ent and I'm su ret h em ajo rity o freadersw illt o o .

Ca r l Ro g e r s

Th e idea t h at clim bing is a m eans o fescape fro m fo rm alit y ru ns t h ro u g h o u t t h e bo o k.Th e Vict o rian m iddlesclassesw eret h efirst t o h av et h em eanst o do t h is o v er a cent u ry and a h alfag o and it w as t h eir adv ent u ro u s spirit t h at led t o t h e co nqu est o ft h e A lps. It w o u ld be alm o st a cent u ry befo re t h e w o rking classesw o u ld h av et h eirch ance,bu t w h en t h ey finally fo u nd t h e m eanst o 'escape' t h e fact o riesand cit ies t h ey m ade t h eir m arkju st asim pressiv ely w ith h ard and 'risky ' ro ckclim bsin Sno w do nia,t h e L ake Dist rict , Derby sh ire and Sco t t ish H ig h lands.

43


Y r H a fo d G u e s t H o u s e N e w R o a d ,N e w to w n ,P o w y s S Y 16 1A X T e l.01686 628624

w w w . n ew h a m d ev. com L iz & Ba r r y C o x w e lc o m e y o u r s ta y a t o u r 'H o m e fr o m H o m e ’ Be d & Br e a k fa s t

T y 'n R h o s C o u n t r y H o u s e S u r r o u n ded by r o llin g S n o w do n ia co u n t r y s ide Q u alit y fu r n is h in g s E n -s u it e facilit ies 01 2 4 8 6 7 0 4 8 9 en q u ir ies @ t y n r h o s .co .u k Ty 'n R h o s , S eio n , L lan ddein io len , S n o w do n ia, L L 5 5 3 A E

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01 6 5 0 5 2 1 3 4 5 w w w .s t a r i n n d y l i f e .c o .u k S it u at ed in s o m e o fW ales ' br eat h t ak in g co u n t r y s ide B & B A cco m m o dat io n av ailable. Dy life N r St ay lit t le

T e l: 01 766 89 03l0 w w w . p la s -ta n y g r a ig . co. uk p la s ta n y g r a ig @g o o g le m a il. com

F an t as t ic v iew s o v er t h e S ev er n Valley an d S h r o p s h ir e H ills , B o t h W ales an d E n g lan d in o n e s it e. S t r o ll alo n g t h e lan es an d fo o t p at h s t o ex p lo r e t h e co u n t r y s ide

Vis it t h e h is t o r ic R a v e n I n n , L lan ar m o n -y n -Ial. W alk er an d do g frien dly c o m m u n i t y r u n C o u n t r y In n . R eal A les , H o m e C o o k ed F o o d an d S e l f C a t e r i n g A c c o m m o d a tio n . C H 7 4 Q E

P las dw p a, B er r iew , W els h p o o l, P o w y s , S Y 2 1 8 P S . 01 6 8 6 6 4 02 9 8 07 8 2 5 7 8 7 2 8 9

T e l . 01 8 2 4 7 8 08 3 3 w w w .r a v e n i n n .c o .u k

The Bryntirion Inn L lan dder fel, B ala, G w y n edd, L L 2 3 7 R A 0 1 67 8 5 3 0 2 0 5 w w w .br y n t ir io n in n .co .u k TW O E N S U ITE G U E S T B E DR O O M S Do u ble, Tw in , S u p er k in g o r S in g le B ev er ag e m ak in g facilit ies /s elect io n o ffair t r ade t eas an d co ffees C o lo u r t elev is io n Dir ect dial t elep h o n e w it h m o dem p o r t F r ee w i-fi acces s Dig it al r o o m s afe S h am p o o , co n dit io n er an d s h o w er g el dis p en s er s

In clu din g br eak fas t : £ 4 0 .0 0 p er p er s o n * S in g le o ccu p an cy : £ 4 5 .0 0 A t Th e B r y n t ir io n In n - a w o n der fu l bas e fo r v is it s t o t h e co as t an d t h e g lo r ies o fS n o w do n ia - y o u w ill fin d a w ar m W els h w elco m e. Th e B r y n t ir io n In n is t h e ideal p lace t o s t o p o v er w h en v is it in g t h is p ict u r es q u e Dee Valley r eg io n o fn o r t h W ales , ju s t fo u r m iles fro m L ak e B ala.

H e n d w r S c a n d in a v ia n L o d g e s S c a n d in a v ia n L o d g e s p r o v id e s a n in d e p e n d e n t s e lf c a t e r in g b a s e f r o m w h ic h t o e n jo y y o u r h o lid a y a n d e x p lo r e t h e a r e a . T h e L o d g e s a r e a v a ila b le fo r w e e k ly le t t in g s o r s h o r t b re ak s. W e ll lo c a t e d a s a b a s e f o r S n o w d o n ia , t h e N o r t h W a le s C o a s t , t h e s t u n n in g W e s t C o a s t , C lw y d ia n R a n g e a n d D e e V a lle y . H e n d w r S c a n d in a v ia n L o d g e s , T y d d y n -H e n d w r , L la n d r illo , C o r w e n , D e n b ig h s h ir e , L L 2 1 0S N .

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T e l: 01407740203 w w w .v a lle y -h o te l-a n g le s e y .c o .u k W h y n o t s ta y a t th e p e r fe c t b a s e fo r w a lk e r s a fte r a lo n g d a y tr e k k in g in a tr a d itio n a l s ty le h o te l.T h e V a lle y o ffe r s a h o m e fr o m h o m e w ith 18 e n s u ite r o o m s to s u it g r o u p s o f a ll s iz e s . A ll r a te s a r e in c lu s iv e o f b r e a k fa s t a n d s ta r t fr o m a s little a s ÂŁ 41.50p p .En jo y fr e s h ly p r e p a r e d fo o d a n d lo c a l a le th r o u g h o u t th e b a r,e a te r y a n d la v is h g a r d e n .

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w w w .h o l y h e a d l o d g e .c o .u k W h y n o t s t ay at t h e p er fect bas e fo r w alk er s after a lo n g day t r eck in g , in a t r adit io n al s t y le h o t el. R elax an d en jo y fres h ly p r ep ar ed co o k ed fo o d in eit h er o u r bar o r eat er y ar ea. A lo n g w it h o u r lav is h g ar den ar ea, p er fect fo r w alk er s w it h do g s ! F i n d u s o n f a c e b o o k w w w .f a c e b o o k .c o m / t h e v a l l e y h o t e l

W a v e c re s t B a r m o u th

Th is delig h t fu l g u es t h o u s e is s it u at ed w it h in m et r es o f B ar m o u t h 's fam o u s s an dy beach . Daily B .& B . fro m ÂŁ 3 0 .0 0 . t o ÂŁ 3 6.0 0 . p er p er s o n 3 t o 7 Day B r eak p r ices av ailable. F am ily R o o m s av ailable S p ecial r at es fo r P ar t y B o o k in g s R am bler s , W alk er s an d C y clis t s W elco m e. ( B ik es s ecu r ely s t o r ed in G ar ag e) T e l : 01 3 4 1 2 8 03 3 0 G w y n e d d , L L 4 2 1NA w w w .b a r m o u t h b a n d b .c o m t h e w a v e c r e s t @ t a l k 2 1 .c o m

S io p y R h o s B & B o r S elfC at er in g fro m 2 -1 2 p eo p le S ea v iew s , E n s u it e B & B r o o m s , C at er s fo r w alk er s . L o cat ed ju s t o fft h e co as t al p at h , a h av en fo r w alk er s w it h h o m e co o k ed 'fo o d t o din e fo r '. P en r h o s llig w y , L lig w y , M o elfre L L 7 0 9 P Z Tel: 0 1 2 4 8 8 5 0 8 0 1 / 0 7 8 4 2 4 3 1 65 8 s y r p r o p er t ies @ bt in t er n et .co m w w w .s t a y i n a n g l e s e y .c o m

T h e S ta r In n S itu a t e d in s o m e o f Br it a in 's m o s t b r e a t h t a k in g c o u n tr y s id e . T h e S ta r In n is ju s t o ff th e B4518 a b o u t 9 m ile s n o r t h w e s t o f L la n id lo e s .

W e c a n a ls o a rra n g e : G o lf Fly Fis h in g G u id e d tra il m o to rb ik e rid in g Cla y P ig e o n S h o o tin g S a ilin g P o n y T re k k in g Q u a d Bik in g

Is a n id y llic s e ttin g fo r "g e ttin g a w a y fro m it a ll".Fis h in g ,G o lf,S a ilin g , W a lk in g ,P o n y tre k k in g ,Cla y P ig e o n s h o o tin g ,a n d Q u a d Bik in g a re ju s t s o m e o f th e a c tiv itie s y o u c a n d o n e a rb y . T h e S ta r In n is a s m a ll fa m ily ru n In n th a t im p lo re s o u r g u e s ts to m a k e th e m s e lv e s a t h o m e .W e c a n ta ilo r b re a k s to s u it y o u r n e e d s ,w h e th e r y o u w a n t s o m e p e a c e a n d q u ie t a n d a c h a n c e to e s c a p e th e h u s tle a n d b u s tle o f u rb a n life ,o r a m o re a c tiv e b re a k .W e a re a n id e a l b a s e fo r w a lk in g a n d c y c lin g a s w e a re o n th e n u m b e r 8 c y c le ro u te a n d o n ly 1/4 m ile o ff th e G ly n d w rs W a y n a tio n a l tra il.

S o w h e th e r y o u fa n c y a o n e o ff a c tiv ity o r a n a c tio n p a c k e d b re a k th a t s u its y o u r s c h e d u le T h e S ta r In n w ill try to m e e t y o u r n e e d s .

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P e n y c o e d H o lid a y s Th e au t h en t ic lo g cabin s ar e t as t efu lly fu r n is h ed, g as cen t r al h eat in g , do u ble g laz ed an d fu lly eq u ip p ed fo r s elf-cat er in g . S y cam o r e R an ch . 3 B edr o o m s .2 do u ble bedr o o m s & a bu n k bed r o o m . Iv y L o dg e 2 do u ble bedr o o m s . B ir ch L o dg e 1 do u ble bedr o o m . H az el L o dg e 1 do u ble bedr o o m . A ll cabin s h av e do u ble s o fa beds in lo u n g e. C en t r al h eat ed, do u ble g laz ed an d fu lly eq u ip p ed fo r s elfcat er in g . O t h er am en it ies in t h e ar ea in clu de fis h in g , g o lf, q u ad t r ek k in g , ex cellen t w alk s dir ect fro m t h e acco m m o dat io n , p r o v idin g a w ell ear n ed br eak O w n g ar den s an d bar baq u e ar ea. A m p le p ar k in g .

w w w .p e n y c o e d h o l i d a y s .c o .u k Pe n y c o e d R id in g St a b le s O ffer h o u r ly an d daily r idin g o v er w o o dlan d H ill co u n t r y o n q u alit y h o r s es an d p o n ies t o s u it r ider s o fall ag es an d all abilit ies M iles o fbr idle w ay s an d t r ack s t o ex p lo r e in beau t ifu l w o o dlan d s u r r o u n din g s w it h m ag n ificen t v iew s o v er t h e W els h B o r der /S h r o p s h ir e. T o m a k e a b o o k i n g p l e a s e T e l e p h o n e 01 6 9 1 8 3 06 08

C a e M a w r B& B O u r q u iet an d co m fo r t able B & B is s it u at ed am ids t o p en fields o v er lo o k in g t h e s m all v illag es o fL lan lly fn i an d Taly s ar n in t h e N an t lle Valley . Th er e ar e m ar v ello u s s ea v iew s acr o s s C aer n ar fo n B ay , fro m t h e R iv als t o H o ly h ead M o u n t ain , an d o n a clear ev en in g it is p o s s ible t o s ee r ig h t acr o s s t h e Ir is h S ea t o t h e W ick lo w H ills . W e ar e cu r r en t ly able t o o ffer t w o lar g e r o o m s , acco m m o dat in g u p t o 5 p er s o n s . Th e fro n t bedr o o m , w it h p an o r am ic v iew s o v er C aer n ar fo n B ay , h as t w o s in g le beds , w h ile a t h ir d g u es t bed can be p r o v ided ifr eq u ir ed fo r u s e by a ch ild. Th e o t h er r o o m , w it h a do u ble bed, lo o k s o u t o v er t h e r ear g ar den . A p r et t y co t t ag e-s t y le bedr o o m w it h a do u ble bed is als o av ailable. 4 -s t ar acco m m o dat io n at 2 -s t ar p r ices ! A v ar iet y o fbeau t ifu l beach es ar e clo s e by ( t h e n ear es t is at Din as Din lle) , as w ell as in t er es t in g h is t o r ical s it es s u ch as C aer n ar fo n an d P en r h y n C as t les , an d t h e fam o u s It alian at e v illag e o fP o r t m eir io n . W h y n o t co m bin e a w alk in t h e h ills w it h a r elax in g day o n t h e beach ? O r h ir e a bik e an d ex p lo r e t h e lo cal ar ea: t h er e ar e r o u t es t o s u it all abilit ies .

01286 8804 14 C ae M aw r , L 么 n Ty ddy n A g n es , L lan lly fn i, G w y n edd, L L 5 4 6R T

w w w . c a e m a w r. co m 46

4 L o g C abin s s et in beau t ifu l w o o dlan d s u r r o u n din g s n ex t t o L ly n cly s H ill an d C r ick h eat h H ill N at u r e R es er v es r ek n o w n fo r t h e p eacefu l as m o s p h er e. O p en all y ear r o u n d av ailable fo r r ider s an d n o n r ider s .


A c c o m o d a t io n Gu id e 20 12

Vis it o r Gr e e n Fe e s W eekday -£ 26 W eekend -£ 32. Disco u nt st o g ro u pso v er 20 g o lferspackag est o su it y o u r needs av ailable M em bersh ip M arch -F ebru ary . by requ est . F u llM em ber £ 5 10 Dist ant M em ber £ 374 .5 0

Denbig h G o lfC lu b,H enllan Ro ad,Denbig h ,L L 16 5 A A .TelN o 0174 5 816 6 6 9 em ail: denbig h g o lfclu b@ ao l.co m W ebsite:w w w .denbig h g o lfclu b.co .u k 47


Po n tc y s y llte

C h irkt o L lang o llen W alk G o t o w w w .w at erscape.co m t o find t h e C h irk-t o -L lang o llen w alking ro u t e pro v ided by w w w .m eanderh o liday s.co .u k,w h ich pro v idesself-g u ided w alking h o liday sLfo or r n a Je n n e r lo o k ttitu d e s to th e o u peo ple w h o care abo u t Britain’scanalsaand riv ers. � n d s w a y s to k e e p

s a t c h a n g in g td o o r s a n d y o u r little Th isro u t e t akesin t h e st u nning canalarch itect u re o fot h ne e s in te r e s te d o n a w a lk In f o r m a t io n C h irkaqu edu ct and t h e w o rld h eritag e site o ft h e Po nt cy sy llte aqu edu ct ,t h e h ig h est and lo ng est aqu edu ct in t h e U K ,and int o t h e at t ract iv e t o u rist t o w n o fL lang o llen.

Dis t a n c e :8.95 m iles/ 14 .4 km St a r t p o in t :C h irk. Ge t t in g t h e r e :Parking :Th ere isa larg e free car parkin t h e cent re o f C h irk.A lternat iv ely parkin L lang o llen and t ake a bu st o C h irk.

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H e r it a g e W a lk s

Th e w a lk 1.St art F ro m t h e car parkcro sst h e m ain ro ad,bear left and t h en t u rn rig h t o nt o t h e B4 5 00.A fter 5 00m y o u w ill reach t h e canal.W alkdo w n t h e pat h t o y o u r left and t h isw illt ake y o u direct ly o nt o t h e C h irkaqu edu ct . 2.C h irkt o W h iteh o u se Tu nnel Th e Ch irkaqu edu ct carriesy o u 70 feet (21m ) abo v e t h e v alley o n 10 st o ne arch es,a to t alleng t h o f700 feet (220m ).Th e t o w pat h isbro ad and h asrailing so n t h e t o w pat h side.To y o u r rig h t y o u w illsee t h e lat er railw ay v iadu ct w h ich isappro x im at ely 4 0 feet (13m ) h ig h er,bu t w ith arch esw h ich st y lish ly m irro rt h o se o f t h e aqu edu ct . 3.Ret race y o u r st epsalo ng t h e aqu edu ct A fter t h e aqu edu ct t h e canalent erst h e C h irkt u nnel. Th isis4 20m lo ng and asw ith t h e o t h ert u nnelso n t h e L lang o llen canalh asa t o w pat h and a railing bet w een t h e canaland t o w pat h .Th e t u nnelisst raig h t ,bu t a t o rch is reco m m ended.If y o u prefer no t t o t rav el t h ro u g h t h e t u nnelt ake t h e pat h t o y o u rrig h t .F o llo w t h e sig nsfo r t h e railw ay st at io n and t u rn left o u t side t h e st at io n t o rejo in t h e canal.Th e canalt h en fo llo w s a cu t t ing fo r o ne m ile befo re ent ering t h e sh o rt er W h iteh o u sest u nnel.Th isisabo u t 170m lo ng and also h asa t o w pat h w ith railing s.U nfo rt u nat ely t h ere isno easy ro u t e t o av o id t h e W h iteh o u se t u nnel.

4.W h iteh o u se Tu nnelt o Po nt cy sy llte A qu edu ct A fterW h iteh o u sest u nnelt h e railw ay cro ssest h e Dee v alley t o t h e rig h t w h ile t h e canalbeg inst o cling t o t h e Dee t h e v alley side.A s y o u adv ance alo ng t h e ro u t e y o u w illalso beg in t o g lim pse t h e Po nt cy sy llte aqu edu ct cro ssing t h e v alley t o y o u r rig h t .

49


Bridg e 28 is a fo o t bridg e o v er t h e canalg iv ing accesst o t h e v illag e o fF ro ncy sy llte w h ich h asa pu b and sh o p,t akeaw ay and t o ilet s sh o u ld y o u w ish t o seek fo rt ificat io n befo re cro ssing t h e aqu edu ct . To accessF ro ncy sy llte cro ssBridg e 28 and t ake t h e ro ad rising t o y o u r left (no t t h e t rack t h at fo llo w st h e canal) at t h e m ain ro ad t u rn rig h t fo r t h e A qu edu ct Inn and t u rn left fo r t h e g eneral st o re (N B:it lo o ksclo sed bu t it'spro bably o pen!).A litt le fu rt h er o n t o y o u r left isa lay -by w ith t o ilet s and t ake-aw ay fish and ch ips.

50

To cro sst h e aqu edu ct rem ain o n t h e rig h t h and t o w pat h and ast h e canalbendst o t h e rig h t y o u w illsee it ex t ending in fro nt o fy o u .Please be aw are t h at any w inds w illbe st ro ng er o n t h e aqu edu ct itself. Th o se o fy o u preferring no t t o cro sst h e aqu edu ct sh o u ld leav e t h e canalat Bridg e 28 alth o u g h w e su g g est y o u w alkt o t h e st art o ft h e aqu edu ct t o adm ire t h e v iew and t h isfeat o feng ineering . If y o u do no t w ish t o cro ss t h e aqu edu ct cro ss


H e r it a g e W a lk s blo cked and a plu g rem o v ed fro m t h e m iddle w h ich sendst h e w at er cascading int o t h e Dee. 5. Po nt cy sy llty e A qu edu ct t o Trev o r O n t h e o t h erside o ft h e aqu edu ct isTrev o r.Th e canal splitsw ith a t ig h t left t u rn int o a narro w arm leading t o L lang o llen. Th e rig h t arm w aso rig inally int ended t o be t h e m ain ro u t e t o C h est er v ia Ru abo n.It no w t erm inat esat Trev o r and serv esasa basin.Trev o r isa u sefu lplace t o t ake a break. Th ere are t o ilet sin t h e car parkt o t h e rig h t ,a sh o p in t h e m arina co m plex serv ing t easand co ffeesand t h eTelfo rd Inn. Th e L lang o llen arm w aso rig inally int ended t o o nly be u sed as a feeder carry ing w at er fro m t h e Dee at L lant isilio , bu t w as u pg raded t o be nav ig able t o L lang o llen,alth o u g h it'snarro w in places. 6.Trev o r t o Bridg e 4 5 To co nt inu e y o u r jo u rney cro sst h e fo o t bridg e o v er t h e Ru abo n arm in t h e basin and w alkt h ro u g h t h e car park,o u t o ft h e g at esand acro sst h e ro ad t o rejo in t h e t o w pat h w h ich sh o rt ly cro sses t h e canaland t h en co nt inu esalo ng t h e v alley side h ig h abo v e t h e Dee affo rding fant ast ic v iew sacro sst h e v alley and ah ead t o t h e m o u nt ains. A t Bridg e 38 t h e Bry n H o w elh o t el pro v idesa pleasant st o p fo ra lat e lu nch o rafterno o n t ea. A fter t h ist h e canaliscro ssed by t h e disu sed railw ay w h ich o nce linked L lang o llen t o Ru abo n,befo re y o u appro ach t h e at t ract iv e t o w n o fL lang o llen.To reach t h e t o w n leav e t h e canalat Bridg e 4 5 and w alkdo w n t h e h ill. 7. Bridg e 4 5 t o L lang o llen L lang o llen is a pleasant t o u rist t o w n o n t h e u pper reach es o f t h e Riv er Dee. It g rew w ith t h e dev elo pm ent o ft h e canal,railw ay and A 5 Tru nkro ad passing t h ro u g h it and isno w pro bably best kno w n ast h e h o m e o ft h e annu alE ist edfo dd w h ich at t ract s 120,000 v isito rst o t h e t o w n each J u ly. Bridg e 28 and t u rn rig h t and ex it t h e car park.Tu rn rig h t and fo llo w t h e ro ad do w nh ill. Th is g iv es ex cellent v iew so ft h e aqu edu ct t o y o u r rig h t .C ro ss t h e riv erbridg e w h ich g iv esfu rt h erg reat v iew so ft h e aqu edu ct and riv er.A t t h e end o ft h ebridg e t u rn rig h t and fo llo w t h e ro ad u ph ill. Y o u w illt h en cro ss t h e L lang o llen arm o ft h e canal,w h ich y o u can jo in t o co nt inu e y o u rw alk,o rco nt inu e st raig h t o n t o ex plo re t h e basin at Trev o r.

Th ere are lo t so findependent sh o pst o bro w se and lo t so fplacest o eat .Y o u co u ld also v isit PlasN ew y dd h o u se and g ardenso r ride t h e st eam t rain alo ng t h e Dee v alley . Th e m o re energ et ic co u ld w alku p t o t h e cast le o r rejo in t h e canaland fo llo w t h e pat h t o t h e H o rsesh o e fallsw h ere t h e riv er feedst h e canalw ith w at er o r t o t h e ru ined Valle C ru cisA bbey .

E v ery eig h t y earst h e aqu edu ct isdrained.E ach end is

Ify o u h av e parked in C h irky o u w illneed t o t ake a bu s fro m t h e L lang o llen t o w n cent re.

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M o e l Sia b o d

M o elSiabo d Sno w do nia W alkby St ev e G o o dier H u t t o n E v ery o ne isim pressed by t h e sig h t o fM o elSiabo d ast h ey driv e u p t h e A 5 fro m Bet w s-Y -Co ed.A t 2,86 1ft (872 m et res) it isa big and m ag nificent m o u nt ain w ith allro u t est o its su m m it inv o lv ing co nsiderable ascent . To g iv e v iew so fDy ffry n M y m by r (t h e farm fro m Th o m as F irbank’sbo o k‘IBo u g h t A M o u nt ain’) o u r ro u t e clim bsu p t h e C apelCu rig flanko ft h e peakt o t h e t o p.Th e ret u rn is m ade alo ng t h e ex citing ro cky N o rt h W est ridg e w h ere scram bling and ro u g h w alking co m bine t o g iv e a m em o rable t rav erse. M o re w alkslike t h is:Sno w do nia'sbest m o u nt ain w alkspu blish ed by M ara Bo o ks(ISBN 978-9025 1219-8) w w w .no rt h erney ebo o ks.co .u k

In f o r m a t io n Dis t a n c e :6 ½ m iles St a r t p o in t :Ro adside parking o n A 4 086 w est o fPlas-y -Brenin O u t do o r C ent re near C apelC u rig . Gr id r e f :SH 715 5 78 M a p :L andrang er 18, E x plo rer O L 17

52


M o e l Sia b o d

Th e w a lk 1.W alkeast alo ng t h e A 4 086 g o ing rig h t t h ro u g h a g at e ju st befo re t h e Plas-Y -Brenin bu ilding s.Descend st epsrig h t o ft h e bu ilding sco nt inu ing o n a su rfaced t rackt o cro ssa bridg e passing t h ro u g h a g at e.Riseu p g o ing ah ead at a pat h cro ssro adst aking a ro u g h pat h int o w o o dland.Cu rv e rig h t at a m ino r pat h ju nct io n co nt inu ing t h e rise t o a fo rest t rack. G o left and im m ediat ely rig h t rising in t h e w o o dst o jo in a t rack and g o rig h t o n it . Rise, cro ssing a st ile (g at e), co nt inu ing w ith a w allrig h t .C ro ssa st ile co nt inu ing t o finally ex it t h e t rees.C ro ssa st ile after a w allend. 2.F o llo w t h e z ig z ag pat h u p t o w ards t h e su m m it ev ent u ally cu rv ing rig h t t h ro u g h a g rassy g u lly. Co nt inu e rising t o cro ssst ile(s) in a fence.F o llo w t h e pat h bey o nd ev ent u ally g o ing left at a fo rkt o re-jo in t h e m ain pat h fu rt h er u p.Co nt inu e u p t h e h illside t o reach a po int rig h t o ft h e ro cky ridg e end.A st h e pat h beco m esindist inct ,g o ah ead passing t h ro u g h a ro ck band.F o llo w t h e faint pat h g o ing rig h t o n a g o o d pat h fu rt h er o n.Rise t o t h e t rig o n M o elSiabo d su m m it. 3.Re-t race y o u r st eps back do w n passing t h e po int w h ere t h e bet t er pat h w as jo ined and co nt inu e t o w ards t h e ro cky ridg e ah ead. Descend t o scram ble u p t h is ridg e descending t o pass a g u lly rig h t . Scram ble o v er t w o m o rebu m psin t h eridg e. Rise ag ain co nt inu ing alo ng t h e ridg e crest o v er blo cky slabs.Descend ro cky g ro u nd arriv ing o n g rass by a cairn. G o ah ead g o ing rig h t o n a pat h reach ed. F o llo w t h is, ev ent u ally descending a st eep slippery g u lly. F o llo w t h e ridg e bey o nd ev ent u ally descending a w ide g rassy g u lly (w et ).L eav e it h alf-left befo re a m arsh y area/ flat ro ck and co nt inu e do w n ano t h er g u lly. C arry o n bey o nd t h is cro ssing an o ld w all.C ro ssa st ile co nt inu ing t o g o left o n a t rack at a ju nct io n.Descend t h e t rack cro ssing a st ile (g at e) t o pass

a h o u se and cro ss a st ile (g at e). F o llo w t h e t rack cu t t ing rig h t befo re t h e nex t h o u se t o fo llo w t h e div ert ed pat h z ig z ag g ing do w n t o re-jo in t h e access driv e and g o rig h t . Descend t h e driv e t o a ro ad ju nct io n. 4.G o left alo ng t h e ro ad and t u rn left befo re t h e A 5 . Rise o n a t rackpassing t h ro u g h g at es.C u t rig h t at a driv e ent rance (priv at e).F o llo w t h e riv erside pat h cu rv ing rig h t o v er a bridg e.C ro ssa field co nt inu ing by t h e riv er cro ssing a st ile int o w o o dland.Co nt inu e beside t h e riv ert o cu t backleft u p ro ckst epsclim bing carefu lly t o near a bridg e o n t h e rig h t . 5.G o left o ft h e bridg e so o n descending st epst o a w idert rack.F o llo w t h isev ent u ally passing a barriert o ano t h er t rackat a co rner.G o left cu rv ing rig h t o n t h is t rackt o passt h ro u g h a g at e(s),co nt inu ing do w nh ill t h ro u g h ano t h er g at e. G o rig h t and ret race t h e o u t bo u nd ro u t e t o co m plet e t h e w alk.

Š C ro w n co py rig h t and/o r dat abase rig h t . A llrig h t sreserv ed.L icence nu m ber 10005 296 2

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B a r m o u th a n d A fo n M a w d d a c h

M aw ddach Trail M eirio ny dd W alkby Sio ned Bannist er Ph o t o s:Š C ro w n co py rig h t (2011) Visit W ales Ify o u w ish t o co m plet e t h e w h o le t railbet w een Barm o u t h and Do lg ellau ,it isw ellsig npo st ed and easy t o fo llo w fro m eith er end.It isa linear ro u t e,bu t frequ ent bu sesg o bet w een Barm o u t h and Do lg ellau fo r t h e ret u rn jo u rney .C h eck w w w .trav eline-cy m ru .info o r 0871 200 22 33 fo r m o re det ails. To cro ssBarm o u t h Bridg e please no t e t h at a t o llispay able fo r fo o t passeng ersand cy clist s. M o re w alkslike t h is:K eep a lo o ko u t fo r Sio ned'snew bo o k o fw alksalo ng t h e C ardig an Bay sect io n o ft h e W alesC o ast Pat h t o be pu blish ed by N o rt h ern E y e Bo o ks (w w w .no rt h erney ebo o ks.co .u k)

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In f o r m a t io n Dis t a n c e :5 m iles St a r t p o in t :Penm aenpo o l– parkat t h e RSPB car parko n t h e A 4 93 bet w een Do lg ellau and F airbo u rne Gr id r e f :SH 6 95 185 M a p :O S E x plo rer 18:H arlech , Po rt h m ado g and Y Bala.


Gr e a t W a lk s – Dd u a llt ,A r e n ig s ,Sn o w d o n ia

Th e w a lk 1.W it h y o u r backt o t h e est u ary ,leav e car parkand t u rn rig h t alo ng m ain ro ad. C ro ss o v er and t u rn sh arply left at a fo o t pat h sig n.. 2.F o llo w u ph illt h ro u g h w o o dland and g o t h ro u g h t h e g at e w h en y o u reach it .Tu rn left alo ng a t rack, sig ned w ith y ello w w ay -m arkersand at a fo rkh ead t o t h e rig h t u ph illand t h ro u g h t h e w o o ds,st illfo llo w ing t h e y ello w w ay -m arkers. 3.W h en y o u reach a po nd t u rn rig h t to g o u ph ill,so o n reach ing so m e st epsand ladderst ile.Co nt inu e ah ead t o fo llo w t h e t rack,bu t as it bends t o t h e rig h t st ay ah ead t o w ardsa h o u se.G o t h ro u g h t w o g at est o w alk past it,befo re t u rning rig h t t h ro u g h a field keeping t h e w allo n y o u r left. G o o v ert w o st ilesand at a farm t u rn rig h t to w ardst h e w ay -m arked g at e.G o t h ro u g h it and h ead left and u ph ill.A t t h e w ay -m arker po st t u rn rig h t fo r a t rack t h at leadst h ro u g h a g ap in t h e w alland t h en h ead u ph ill(keeping t h e fence w h ich t h en beco m esa w all o n y o u rleft).Y o u w illso o n reach a g rassy pat h o n t h e rig h t .Take t h isand fo llo w it o v er a ridg e. F o llo w t h e t rackt o a st ile o v era w alland cro ssit.Tu rn rig h t and h ead do w nh illt o so o n reach ano t h er st ile. G o t h ro u g h a g at e t o a ro ad and t u rn rig h t t o g et t o a larg er ro ad.

4.Tu rn left h ere bu t qu ite so o n,cro sst h e ro ad and g o do w n t h e driv e fo r A berg w y nant F arm .Passt h e farm and fo llo w t h e t rack,g o ing t h ro u g h t w o g at esbefo re reach ing w o o dland.F o llo w a t rackt h ro u g h t h ew o o ds bu t asit bendst o t h e rig h t ,st ay ah ead t o reach a w ay m arker. C arry o n and cro ss a sm allbridg e befo re h eading rig h t and u ph ill.Y o u ’llem erg e o nt o t h e o ld railw ay t rackso t u rn rig h t and co nt inu e allt h e w ay backt o Penm aenpo o l.

Š C ro w n co py rig h t and/o r dat abase rig h t . A llrig h t sreserv ed.L icence nu m ber 10005 296 2

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D d u a llt in s o m b r e m o o d

Ddu allt A renig s,Sno w do nia W alkby J o h n G ilh am Ddu allt— m eaning t h e 'blackh eig h t s'— isperh apso ne o ft h e m o st iso lat ed o fallt h e 2,000ft/6 00m peaksin Sno w do nia. A n ascent o fDdu allt needsa lit t le det erm inat io n asm o re o ften t h an no t it inv o lv esst ru g g ling t h ro u g h h eat h er and bo g g y g ro u nd fo r at least so m e o ft h e w ay . Th isro u t e appro ach esfro m t h e no rt h east and u sest h e no rt h ridg e t o reach t h e su m m it.It isa lo ng bu t fascinat ing appro ach t h ro u g h rarely w alked t errain. M o re w alkslike t h is:Th e M o u nt ainso fSno w do nia Vo lu m e 3 Th e E ast ern PeaksJ o h n G ilh am (ISBN 978-0-7112-3135 -1). w w w .franceslinco ln.co m

In f o r m a t io n Dis t a n c e :9 m iles St a r t p o in t :Po nt Do lh endre,near Bala.Th ere isspace fo r carsnear t h e t eleph o ne bo x . Gr id r e f :SH 85 4 308 M a p :L andrang er 123,E x plo rer 25 3

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Gr e a t W a lk s – M a w d d a c h Tr a il,Gw y n e d d

Th e w a lk G o acro ss t o t h e so u t h side o ft h e bridg e and t u rn rig h t at t h e cro ssro adsalo ng t h e lane m arked asa cu lde-sac.Th e bo ld crag so fCarn Do ch an do m inat e t h e early scenes and t h e lane beco m es a st o ny t rack descending t o t h e fo rest o fCo ed Bry n Bras. H ere a m o dern bridg e and an o ld clapperbridg e span t h e A fo n F w y .O v er t h e m o dern bridg e t h e t racks div ide.Take t h e lesspro m inent left fo rk,w h ich ist h e fo o t pat h sh o w n o n t h e m ap.Th isclim bst h ro u g h t h e t reest o jo in ano t h er fo rest ry t rack.J u st bey o nd t h is t ake t h erig h t fo rk,w h ich so o n beco m esa pine needle and st o ne t rackw inding t h ro u g h darkfo rest . W h ere t h e t rackco m est o a v ag u e cro ssro ads,ig no re t h e g rassy ride st raig h t ah ead bu t bear left alo ng a g rassy t rack (bo g g y at first ),w h ich m eanders t o a ladder st ile o n t h e edg e o ft h e fo rest (G R 837305 ). Th e t rackco nt inu est h ro u g h a m arsh y u pland h o llo w w it h t h e g rassy flanks o fM arian t o t h e left and t h e bracken and bo u lders o fC errig C h w ibano g t o t h e rig h t .Ddu allt’sdarkcrag sfirst appear o n t h e h o riz o n bu t so o n t h e t rackendsin a bed o fru sh es.Tu rn left alo ng t h e near side o ft h e fence befo re t u rning rig h t

o v er a st ep-st ile by a fence ju nct io n.H ead so u t h w est alo ng t h epleasant g rassy ridg e o fM arian w ith Ddu allt st raig h t ah ead.Th e ch eeky litt le bell-sh aped ro ckpeak t o t h e rig h t o fDdu allt isRh o bell-y -big . M arian’s g rass ridg e g iv es w ay t o t h e ro cky -sided C errig -y r-lw ch . Descend t h e ridg e’s w est ern end, parallelt o t h e edg eso fa co nifer fo rest .Y o u are no w co nfro nt ed by t h e g reat m arsh y plat eau separat ing y o u and Ddu allt. It g iv es birt h t o t w o riv ers, t h e M aw ddach and t h e Dee so it’sw et in places,really w et . Th ere are no pat h sbu t int ellig ent nav ig at io n av o ids t h e w o rst bo g s. F o r t h e ret u rn ro u t e ret race y o u r st epst o M arian bu t t h ist im e t u rn rig h t ju st befo re t h e st ile by t h e fence ju nct io n (G R 833299) and descend beneat h t h e ru g g ed slo peso fC raig y L lest rit o cro sst h e fo o t bridg e acro sst h e F w y (G R 84 0297).Rake acro sst h e h illslo pes at t h e far side keeping t h e du sky F o ely G raig w ellt o t h e rig h t .Th e ram part s o fC ast ellC arn Do ch an w ill so o n appear ah ead.A fter v isiting t h e o ld fo rt ret race y o u r st epsalo ng t h e ridg e fo r a sh o rt w ay t o ro u nd t h e crag sand descend t o a w inding g rassy t rackt h at t akesy o u backt o t h e o u t w ard ro u t e at t h e bo t t o m edg e o ft h e fo rest .

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Pu m lu m o n M id W ales W alkby To m H u t t o n Th isisdefinitely no t t h e easiest w ay t o bag Pu m lu m o n,bu t w alking in t h ispart o fW alesw asnev er m eant t o be easy . Th e o pening leg fo llo w sa g o o d t rack,bu t fro m t h e st epping st o neso v er t h e N ant y L ly n,ev en t h e clear pat h scan be h ard t o fo llo w .It ’seasy g o ing o n t h e w h o le t h o u g h ,w ith ju st o ne st eep sect io n o n t h e ascent ,and ano t h er o n t h e w ay do w n.A g o o d sky line w alkw ay leadsbet w een t h e t w o peaks– ju st dessert sfo r t h o se w h o m ake t h e effo rt .

In f o r m a t io n Dis t a n c e :8 m iles St a r t p o in t :M aesnant ,near N ant y M o ch Reserv o ir. Gr id r e f :SN 774 879 M a p :L andrang er 135 E x plo rer O L 213

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Pu m lu m o n

Th e w a lk 1.Co nt inu e alo ng t h e ro ad t o a g at e and fo llo w t h e bro ad t rackabo v e t h e farm bu ilding s at M aesnant . Co nt inu e fo r ju st o v er o ne kilo m et re and y o u ’lldro p past ru ined bu ilding s t o st epping st o nes t h at cro ss t h e N ant y L ly n (ig no re t h e co nt inu at io n t rack h eading left).C ro ssand keep ah ead fo r a few m o re pacesu nt ily o u see a faint pat h fo rking rig h t ah ead o f t h e w alled enclo su re,filled w ith t rees.N o w fo llo w t h is u p o nt o t h e h ig h g ro u nd abo v e t h e st ream and st ay w it h o ne o fa few faint t racks,cro ssing m ainly so ft g ro u nd,u nt ily o u ev ent u ally dro p t o cro ssa st ream . N o w keep ah ead t o co nt inu e o n a clearer pat h t o t h e beau t ifu lL ly n L ly g ad Rh eido l,w h ere y o u need t o cro ss t h e o u t let and w alkalo ng t h e dam t o jo in a w at erw o rkst rack. 2.F o llo w t h isaro u nd t o t h e rig h t and t h en keep y o u r ey eso pen fo ra faint pat h h eading left,st eeply u p t h e h illside.Take t h isand clim b relent lessly u p t o a deep co lbeneat h Pu m lu m o n F ach (Sm allPu m lu m o n).Bear left h ere t o w alko nt o t h e t o p o fPu m lu m o n F ach and t h en keep ah ead t o dro p int o ano t h er deep no t ch , w h ere a pat h st art s t h e clim b o nt o Pen Pu m lu m o n F aw r.Th isso o n fadesint o t h e h illside leav ing y o u t o fo llo w sh eep t racksu p t h e line o fleast resist ance t o t h e cairn t h at m arks t h e no rt h ern t o p. F ro m t h is y o u can w alk easily so u t h w ards t o t h e ro cky cro w ned peak it self.Th is o ne o ft h e g reat v iew po int s o f W ales – w it h fine v iew s o f t h e Breco n Beaco ns,t o t h e so u t h , and t o Sno w do nia, fu rt h er no rt h . Th e PreseliH illsare also in rang e. 3.W ith t h e h ard w o rk do ne, h ead east w ards,fo llo w ing t h e fence alo ng t h e crest o f t h e ridg e. Dro p int o a sh allo w saddle and clim b o v er pt 724 m ,w h ere t h e v alley t h at leads o ff t o t h e rig h t co nceals t h e so u rce

o f t h e Riv er W y e. K eep ah ead, st illw it h fence fo r co m pany ,u nt il,in t h e nex t saddle,y o u see a faint pat h h eading diag o nally left,t o clim b t h e st eep slo pe t h at leadso nt o t h e ro cky t o p o fPu m lu m o n A rw y st li.Th e o u t lo o kw est no w is ru g g ed and m o u nt aino u s,bu t east w ards,t h e plant at io nso ft h e H afren F o rest st o p ju st a few m et ressh o rt o ft h e su m m it. 4.Y o u rnex t o bject iv e ist o descend int o C w m G w erin. Th e easiest line h eads ju st no rt h o fw est fro m t h e su m m it t o t h e escarpm ent at t h e h ead o ft h e v alley . U po n reach ing t h e st eeperg ro u nd,co nt o u rro u nd t o t h e no rt h u nt ilit relent seno u g h t o allo w passag e – do dg ing ro cky o u t cro psasy o u g o .K eep left o n t h e v alley flo o r,and w alkbeneat h C raig y M arch ,keeping t h e N ant G w erin t o y o u r rig h t allt h e t im e.Th e g o ing steepensto w ardst h ebo t to m and t h est ream t u m bles do w n in serieso fw at erfalls. 5.Bey o nd t h e cascadest h e st ream ru nsint o t h e A fo n H eng w m clo se t o so m e larg e bo u lders and so m e ru ins,and bey o nd t h isa g at e leadso nt o a clear bu t u su ally w et t rack.F o llo w t h isalo ng t h e bankso ft h e riv er,passing t h e circu lar enclo su re y o u saw earlier befo re dro pping t o fo rd t h e N ant y L ly n ag ain.N o w ret race y o u r earlier st epsbackt o M aesnant .

© C ro w n co py rig h t and/o r dat abase rig h t . A llrig h t sreserv ed.L icence nu m ber 10005 296 2

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M o elA rt h u r C lw y dian Rang e,Denbig h sh ire W alkby J o Danso n Th issh o rt circu lar w alkclim bst o t h e su m m it o fM o elA rt h u r, cro ssing t h e w ell-preserv ed ram part so ft h e Iro n A g e h illfo rt and g iv ing pano ram ic v iew s. M o re w alkslike t h is:Th isro u t e and ideasfo r ch ildren’s act iv itiesand feat u reso fint erest o n M o elA rt h u r w illbe inclu ded in J o Danso n’sfo rt h co m ing bo o k,‘M ag icalW alks w ith C h ildren Vo lu m e 1:Denbig h sh ire,F lint sh ire and W rex h am ’,t o be pu blish ed by A ly n Bo o ks (w w w .aly nbo o ks.co .u k)

In f o r m a t io n Dis t a n c e :1.5 m iles St a r t p o in t :M o elA rt h u r issitu at ed o n a m ino r ro ad t h at linkst h e A 5 4 1 M o ld -Denbig h ro ad and t h e B5 4 29 t o L landy rno g .Th ere isa sm allcar parkat t h e fo o t o ft h e h ill. Gr id r e f :SJ 14 76 5 7 M a p :E x plo rer 26 5 L andrang er 116

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Gr e a t W a lk s – M o e l A r t h u r ,Clw y d ia n Ra n g e ,De n b ig h s h ir e

Th e w a lk M o elA rt h u r ist h e sm allest o ft h e st ring o fIro n A g e h illfo rt st h at cro w n sev eralo ft h e su m m itsalo ng t h e C lw y dian Rang e. It s eart h en banks and dit ch es (ram part s),bu ilt o v er25 ,000 y earsag o ,are st illclearly v isible.A sing le ram part pro t ect st h e st eeper slo pes abo v e t h e car parkbu t t h e g ent ly slo ping no rt h ern side h asa larg er do u ble ram part . F ro m t h e car parkg o t o t h e int erpret iv e panelo n st o ne t h en g o t h ro u g h t h e g ap in t h e st o ne w alland fo llo w O ffa’sDy ke Pat h ,clim bing st eadily u ph ill,w ith M o elA rt h u r o n y o u r left. A fter abo u t 5 00m ,at a slat e slab,t u rn left o nt o t h e sig ned pat h t o w ards M o elA rt h u r, clim bing m o re st eeply u ph ill.Th ispat h t akesy o u t h ro u g h t h eo rig inal h illfo rt ent rance. Y o u can clearly see t h e do u ble ram part to t h e rig h t and sing le ram part slig h t ly h ig h er u p t h e pat h o n t h e left. Co nt inu e u p t o t h e su m m it.Th ere isa w alker’scairn o n t h e su m m it bu t it m ay also be t h e site o fa Bro nz e A g e bu rialm o u nd.E njo y t h e pano ram ic v iew sfro m t h e su m m it t h en t ake t h e pat h rig h t g radu ally descending , so o n w alking do w n a st epped pat h

t h ro u g h t h e do u ble ram part s.Co nt inu e o n t h e clear pat h ,slo w ly descending ,w ith su perb v iew sleft acro ss t h e Vale o f C lw y d t o Sno w do nia and ah ead t o Peny clo ddiau . C o nt inu e u nt ilt h e pat h m eet s a w ider pat h , ju st befo re a st ile.Tu rn rig h t o nt o t h isw iderpat h ,w h ich is O ffa’sDy ke Pat h ,and fo llo w fo rabo u t 1km ,w ith fields o n t h e left and M o elA rt h u r o n t h e rig h t ,backt o t h e car park.

Go ld d ig g e r s ! In 1888 findso fg o ld in t h e lo calarea h it t h e h eadlines in t h e M ining J o u rnal.A sm allm ine at M o elA rt h u r and sev eralnearby sitesw ere w o rked fo rsev eraly ears bu t no fo rt u nes w ere m ade! Th e st o ne w as also qu arried and u sed fo r lo calbu ilding sand w alls. Th e spo ilh eapsare st illclearly v isible abo v e t h e car park.Ify o u w ish t o ex plo re h ere clim b carefu lly u ph ill fro m t h e car park,keeping t o t h e left-h and side near t h e fence t o reach t h e sm allqu arriesand spo ilh eaps. L it t le is kno w n abo u t t h e w o rking s bu t t h e siz e o f spo ilin t h e h eapssu g g est t h at t h e st o ne w asbeing bro ken int o sm allpieces,pro bably t o ex t ract m et al o re o fso m e so rt .

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