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GARYS SS 20 20 F ORU M / THE SU B STA N CE OF STYLE

FORUM/THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE/SS 2020

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D I S C O V E R T H E F I N E S T R E TA I L , D I N I N G A N D E N T E R TA I N M E N T, I N A N U N M AT C H E D C O A S TA L S E T T I N G . Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Macy’s, AG, Alice + Olivia, Anthropologie & Co., Apple, Drybar, FIG & OLIVE, Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, GARYS, Hyde Park Jewelers, Lilly Pulitzer, Louis Vuitton, Nespresso, Peloton, Rebecca Taylor, RED O Mexican Cuisine by Rick Bayless, Restoration Hardware, Rolex, St. John, SUITSUPPLY, Tesla Motors, THE LOT, Tommy Bahama Home, TravisMathew, True Food Kitchen, Vince, Voluspa, Zadig & Voltaire. Partial list. Copyright © 2020 Irvine Management Company. All Rights Reserved. Fashion Island and Discover Your Best Life are registered trademarks of Irvine Management Company.

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CONTENTS

spring/ summer 2020

28 58

40

46 FEATURES 20

24

46

50

58

4

WARDROBE: DRESSING FOR THE PART ICON: EDDIE REDMAYNE FOOD: TAKE IT OUTSIDE DRINK UP: BOURBON’S NEW MOMENT GOLF: FOLLOW THE SHEEP

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FASHION

DEPARTMENTS

10

ELEMENTS OF STYLE

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FIND WHAT SUITS YOU!

8 16

40

EASY. BREEZY. SHARP!

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52

ARCHI/TEXTURE

Welcome Letter Ask Forum Profile:

The Corneliani Look

Profile:

The Isaia Idea

44

Ship Ahoy:

Where to Float Your Boat

62

Indulgences:

Cart Blanche 64

Final Stitch:

The Munro Doctrine


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welcome

THE MAN

MAKES THE CLOTHES N

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ter what your golf swing is, one look at this locale and you’ll be ready to pack a bag. Of course, packing for any golf vacation might require a wardrobe update, and we’ve got new looks in our new Peter Millar store, ranging from weekend athleisure wear to smart casual. And while we’re talking about smart casual, in case you haven’t noticed, the times are a-changin’. These days, dressing for work doesn’t always mean the obligatory suit and tie. Many offices are moving to a more casual dress. In “Elements of Style” on page 10, we demonstrate how to pull off a more relaxed look while remaining polished. We hope you enjoy these and all the features in this issue of Garys magazine. When you’re finished reading, come see us in either our Newport Beach or Del Mar store. We are always here to help you make selections that help you look your very best. Happy spring! JOHN BRAEGER AND THE GARYS TEAM

Follow us to stay in-the-know about events and special offers.

GarysMensStore @garys_mensstore

Editor in Chief RITA GUARNA Creative Director STEPHEN VITARBO Senior Editor DARIA MEOLI Senior Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS Lifestyle Editor HALEY LONGMAN Contributing Photographers MATT SAYERS,

DANIEL SPRINGSTON Editor at Large and Founding Editor

KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN Concept Director ANDREW MITCHELL

PUBLISHING STAFF Group Publisher SHAE MARCUS Director of Sales MONICA DELLI SANTI National Account Executive JESSICA SALERNO Production Director SUSAN WINDRUM Advertising Services Director JACQUELYNN FISCHER Graphic Designer, Ad Services VIOLETA MULAJ Production Art Associate CHRIS FERRANTE Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK

APPAREL FORUM

ANDRISEN MORTON Denver, CO GARYS Newport Beach, CA HUBERT WHITE Minneapolis, MN KILGORE TROUT Cleveland, OH LARRIMOR’S Pittsburgh, PA MALOUF’S Lubbock / Southlake, TX MARIOS Portland, OR / Seattle, WA MITCHELLS Westport, CT / Huntington, NY MITCHELLS/RICHARDS Greenwich, CT OAK HALL Memphis, TN RODES Louisville, KY RUBENSTEINS New Orleans, LA STANLEY KORSHAK Dallas, TX WILKES BASHFORD San Fran/Palo Alto, CA PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA GARYS is published by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656 in association with GARYS. Copyright © 2020 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, GARYS, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, GARYS Circulation Department, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656; telephone 201.573.5541; email kathy.wenzler@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@ wainscotmedia.com. Printed in the U.S.A. Volume 23, Issue 1.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ew York, Paris and Milan may have the runways, but I believe the style born here in California has influenced the way men around the world have dressed for decades. The beatnik chic of 1950s San Francisco and the surfer style of 1960s Santa Barbara have paved the way for the casual luxury of today’s Los Angeles. At Garys, it is part of our mission to help all our guys dress in a way that expresses their own California cool and find pieces that fit their lifestyle. That is why we are excited to welcome Atelier Munro, a young Dutch custom menswear line, to our store this spring. From suits to sneakers, sportcoats to denim, Garys customers can customize all the details, including fabric, pockets, linings and lapels. These European made-to-measure garments are crafted specifically from each customer’s measurements in everything from formalwear to casual looks. Turn to page 64 to learn more in “The Munro Doctrine.” As we transition into spring, there is one thing on our minds—golf. In “Follow the Sheep” on page 58, we take a cue from the sheep, who happen to know a thing or two about green pastures, and visit Oregon’s Bandon Dunes. Starting in June, the wildly popular resort will open a new course in what was previously a grazing ground. No mat-

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ASK FORUM

solving your fashion dilemmas

Dressing Up DENIM

I cherish my denim jacket. Is there a way I can wear it—as well as my favorite pair of jeans—to go from weekends to work? The good news is that denim today isn’t what your dad used to wear. Modern fashion has not only embraced denim but has expanded its use as it’s showing up everywhere from Hollywood movie premieres to business-casual workplaces. The red carpet has few fashion rules, whereas date nights and office settings still have loose guidelines to follow. For starters, be sure jackets fit properly—nothing too baggy or too tight. When considering length, the bottom hem should hit at your hips. A neat denim jacket can work in a business-casual environment, and in many cases it can be worn as a replacement for a sportcoat. For example, wear it over a checked, button-up shirt or a polo that’s paired with dress chinos or khakis. A pair of high-quality jeans will make every guy look good. An indigo or deep blue-gray pair works in almost every setting, as long as the jeans are neat, clean and close-fitting (not skinny). Dress them up with a button-up shirt and either a vest or a V-neck sweater on top if there’s still a chill in the air.

GETTING SNEAKERS Right

My closet is full of leather and suede sneakers. How can I incorporate them into my attire for the office? Every day can feel like casual Friday—even if wearing a suit is still the norm. Go ahead and wear sneakers with tailored clothing, as long as your suit has a slim silhouette and the trousers end just above your ankles. In fact, it’s cool to show off a little ankle too. Leather and suede sneakers should always be clean, meaning free of dirt and excessive branding (save the logos for the basketball court). Your best bet is to stick to a neutral color palette—pare it down to black, brown, navy and white—as it’s easier to cross the line between casual and business with a timeless design.

SUITED for Summer

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The weather is getting warmer but I’m not ready to give up wearing a suit. What are my options this season? Most of us are naturally more laid-back in warmer months, especially when it comes to fashion. But that doesn’t mean you should forget about style. Linen and seersucker are the ultimate fabrics for summer suits—they’re both lightweight and breathable, and they’ll look great at an outdoor party. If you’re concerned about wrinkles, which we all know are a feature of linen, try a linen/cotton or linen/wool blend. Still wearing a suit to the office? A great option is a high-twist or fresco wool suit in a lighter shade of blue or gray; this material allows for maximum airflow and will wick away moisture. In a business-casual environment, an unstructured sportcoat in a cotton/linen blend or a jersey knit is a smart alternative that’ll make you feel and look cool. GARYS S P RING/S U M M E R 2 02 0


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how to

elements of

STYLE

Get a 9-to-5 look that is both professional and relaxed. Photography by Dan Springston

The modern-day office is changing, so summer is the perfect time to mix casual pieces in with your work attire. Express your personality, feel comfortable and still look all business by adding accessories or swapping traditional pieces for more dressed-down details in your weekday warm weather wardrobe.

TRAVEL DAY On him: shirt by Eton, pants by Hudson, sunglasses by Peter Millar. Pack-away by Ermenegildo Zegna, trainers by Trask.

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MIDWEEK BLUES On him: blazer, polo, pants and pocket square by Eleventy. Bracelet by Tateossian, loafers by Swims.

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Š2020 A Genesco Company

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how to RAINY-DAY READY On him: raincoat, sportcoat and shirt by Isaia, pants by PT01. Shirt by Eleventy, trainer by Trask, pocket square by Eton.

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EVERYDAY EASY On him: sweater, shirt and jeans by Peter Millar. Backpack by Bellroy, loafer by Trask, belt by Peter Millar.

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how to

CAREFREE FRIDAYS On him: polo by Eleventy, pants by Peter Millar. Sportcoat by Eleventy, belt by Eleventy, pants by Faherty, loafer by Trask.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF CORNELIANI

Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, style director for Corneliani, designs clothes for a type of culture, not just a type of man.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF CORNELIANI

the

CORNELIANI LOOK

“Informality is the new luxury,” says the style director of this esteemed Italian menswear house. By Rita Guarna

Sartorial elegance can have an eloquence beyond words. But we wanted words anyway from Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, style director for the Italian menswear brand Corneliani, so we put him on the spot with a few questions. Here’s what he told us. How would you describe the Corneliani man? “Today it is quite difficult to speak about a specific ‘kind’ of man. I prefer to speak about a ‘tribe’; that is, it’s less about age and more about your social environment and about your culture. Customers choose something not only because of the brand and the actual product, but even more because they feel that they belong to the same world as the brand they are buying. In the case of Corneliani, it’s refined and sophisticated. The Corneliani man knows what’s going on. He’s sensitive to beauty and authenticity; he’s spending money to live an experience, not to own products. He’s an elegant globe-trotter who loves Italy. No matter the age and nationality, our consumers are driven by experience, uniqueness and elegance.” Tell us a bit about the brand’s sartorial psyche. “Corneliani is devoted to excellence. We want to be the curators and creators of Italian style for men. We have a unique style and a distinctive and instinctive sense of Italian refinement and sophistication that comes from our origins, our heritage. Staying true to our roots, we relentlessly uphold the passion of Italian sophistication and lifestyle. Using the best Italian craftsmanship, we wish to create much more than a product: We want to deliver a service, a way of life and an ultimate experience of Italian excellence.” What is your background? “I was born in Milan in the ’70s, and part of my family was already active in the fashion industry. I grew up in my grandma’s big showroom in the center of Milan among beautiful fabrics, furs (at that time they were popular) and lots of tailors. When I was 21, I starting working for a European brand while still studying. It was my destiny to work in this industry, and I love it!” Explain your role as style director and how it differs from that of the creative director. “My role is not very common for our industry. I’m the style director, but at the same time I’m also the general merchandising manager. That means that on one side I have ownership of the creative

aspects of the job; on the other, I need to be very analytical and aware of the competition. I have a great team supporting me in both roles, style and merchandising.” What has been your biggest accomplishment since joining the brand in 2016? “From a ‘social’ point of view, I was very happy to be one of GQ’s Best-Dressed Men in 2019. Professionally, I’m proud to have the respect of the people I work with every day. I hope this beautiful brand becomes a major player in our arena.” What innovations can we expect from Corneliani in 2020 and beyond? “For SS20, Corneliani debuts Circle, a collection of garments made exclusively of natural and organic fibers from suppliers who have embarked on the path of sustainability. With this project, we are renewing our ties with our longstanding clients and new eco-sustainable consumers, who are increasingly attentive to the ‘nature’ of what they choose to wear. This approach represents an alignment with the methods, certifications and international standards that regulate the compatibility of industrial processes. “Innovation is very important, and we are always looking for new ways to represent our DNA. Presently, we are launching a new superlight knit jacket from an Italian supplier that modified its weaving machines to produce a sort of knitted fabric.” What about comfort and fit? “Today, comfort is the key word! We want to wear garments inside and outside, at work and during the weekend. We want to feel at ease and at the same time elegant—in every situation. Basically: effortless elegance in every moment.” What’s a staple in your wardrobe— from Corneliani and beyond? “My style is very simple, as my rule is ‘less is more.’ So in my wardrobe you will find straight-leg vintage Levi’s 501, T-shirts and sneakers. Of course, I have a lot of Corneliani garments, but my favorite is a Corneliani deconstructed and unlined blue suit in a special and exclusive fabric called Flawless. It is a wool Super 160s fabric, which, thanks to the use of nanotechnology to treat the yarn, is made waterproof, anti-stain and non-creasing.” What inspires you? “The truth is, I find inspiration every day from real

life. I’m a very curious person, and I love contemporary art, movies, music. There’s no structured process; it can come from small things. Of course, traveling and learning about new cultures and new habits always let my mind run.” Name a fashion icon you admire. “Audrey Hepburn, for her simple and clean timeless elegance. And Robert Redford for the same reasons.” Tell us something about you that people might not know. “I’m not a compulsive collector, but I love Adidas Superstar trainers. I have them in all possible colors. I’m a size 12, and it’s hard for me to find the right size, so whenever I find a nice pair, I buy them.” What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given? “‘Always put yourself in the shoes of other people before judging them.’ And it comes from my mom, my grandpa, my aunt—my whole family.” When you’re not working, where can we find you? “I don’t have much free time, so when I am free, I’m with my family.” What are you most proud of? “My two wonderful daughters.” Do you have any regrets? “No. I have a great job. I love what I do. I have a wonderful family; they are my life. I am a 47-yearold-happy man.” Has the social climate of inclusivity and gender fluidity affected your vision? “Fluidity and inclusivity are the dominant characteristics of our time. This continual rhythm of change seems to dictate the beat of a new style. Fashion responds to this, offering concepts suited to the new geographic and existential nomadic restlessness, and ‘hybridization’ becomes the key word for men’s fashion. It is the most modern combination of tailored garments and sportswear. “Corneliani’s SS20 collection has been built around an idea of subtle effortlessness. For this reason, I worked to find new ways to mix and morph worlds and solutions—effortlessly. Informality is the new luxury, mixing shapes and functions, playing with materials, wearing progressive proportions. The result: effortless elegance.”

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wardrobe!

dressing for

THE PART

Academy Award–winning costume designer Sandy Powell outfits some of the silver screen’s biggest names, inspiring audiences around the globe. By Darcey Gohring Great costumes can bring a story to life. Before an actor even utters a word, his or her clothes can convey a time period, a location, a personality and an overall mood. In the right hands, a film’s wardrobe can not only transport audiences but also inspire real-life fashion trends. And when some of Hollywood’s biggest names are looking to make a statement, one woman is on the top of the list: award-winning British costume designer Sandy Powell. The London-born creative has worked on almost 40 films since the 1980s. In that time, she has garnered 14 Oscar nominations (even competing against herself one year), making her the most nominated living artist in her field. To put it in terms most of us can understand, Powell has won the same number of Oscars (three) as Meryl Streep. (Wins were for 2009’s The Young Victoria, 2004’s The Aviator and 1998’s Shakespeare in Love.) A favorite of director Martin Scorsese, the 59-year-old has collaborated with him on such films as Gangs of New York, The Wolf of Wall Street, Hugo and last year’s The Irishman. A master at her craft, Powell has a knack for making wardrobes in period films somehow

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feel fresh and current. There is always a bit of an edge to them. When she begins a project, she says her process is much the same whether it is a blockbuster or an indie film. The first step is to read the script and meet with the director. Then the real work begins—research, research and more research. “I have an extensive collection of books and photography: contemporary and period fashion, street photography, photojournalism,” she explains. “I plow through those, building up catalogs of images directly related to the period or just looking for pure inspiration.” In truth, for Powell the actual designing of the clothes is the smallest part of the process. She cites one example from her work on 2018’s Mary Poppins Returns. She created a whopping 448 looks for the movie, but it was the details that were most time-consuming. In the film, Meryl Streep’s character, inspired by the artistic bohemians of the early 20th century, had a scene that required a lot of movement. For the character’s complicated, handmade costume, the challenge Powell didn’t see coming was finding a material from which to fabricate bracelets that would not make a lot of noise.

After much trial and error, Powell’s solution was to cast them in rubber. In the 2018 dark comedy The Favourite, she had the challenge of dressing stars Emma Stone, Rachel Weisz and Olivia Colman in over-the-top versions of 18thcentury English clothes—with a slim budget and a tight timeline. “We weren’t making a conventional historical film,” Powell told British Vogue in 2019. “Silhouette-wise, there is nothing wrong with how the costumes were made. But, fabric-wise, artistic license was taken. It adds to the general feeling of the film.” She also kept the palette to mostly black and white, and with her creative vision the result was what Powell describes as a punk-rock version of a royal court. The latest Powell work to hit the big screen is The Glorias: A Life on the Road, a look at the life of feminist activist Gloria Steinem. For that 2020 release, Powell designed looks beginning in the 1940s and extending all the way to the present day. Once again, her costumes don’t exactly steal the scenes—they’re not supposed to do that—but they surely make her talented presence felt.


GANGS OF NEW YORK – MIRAMAX FILMS; THE AVIATOR – WARNER BROS. ENTERTAINMENT INC.; HUGO – PARAMOUNT (UNIVERSAL PICTURES)

A favorite of director Martin Scorsese, Oscar-winning Sandy Powell has designed costumes for many of his films, including Gangs of New York , 2002 (above); The Aviator, 2004 (left); and Hugo , 2011 (below).

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man of style:

EDDIE REDMAYNE This British actor with a multi-hued range also cuts a smart figure on the red carpet. Not bad for a guy who’s color-blind. By Haley Longman Alphabetically, Hayden comes soon after Hawking. Of course, that doesn’t assure British actor Eddie Redmayne will cop the Best Actor Academy Award for his performance as radical activist Tom Hayden in this year’s film The Trial of the Chicago 7. Just because he won the 2014 prize for playing physicist Stephen Hawking in The Theory of Everything doesn’t mean he’s a lock. Still, wouldn’t paired Oscars look nice on the mantel? Score Redmayne’s accent and defined cheekbones on the plus side for a style icon; his freckles, slender build and so-called “bedhead” maybe not so much. But, likely or not, this talented Brit has combined an already-impressive roster of thespian credits (he just turned 38) with a rep for choosing impeccable clothing and wearing it impeccably. Edward John David Redmayne grew up in London and attended the Jackie Palmer Stage School for the performing arts from the age of 10. He got his professional start in theater on London’s West End and did stints on television before landing roles in films such as The Yellow Handkerchief and The Other Boleyn Girl (both 2008). On stage in London, in 2009, he played a fictional assistant to painter Mark Rothko in a play fittingly titled Red. Three years

later his star was rising, with a stint in the film My Week with Marilyn and his breakout role in the star-studded Les Misérables in 2012. By then, the world knew Redmayne could act and sing, but the fellow had a knack for style too. British fashion powerhouse Burberry hired him for its spring/summer 2012 campaign; in the years following he was named to the “best-dressed” lists in both Vanity Fair and GQ, became an ambassador for the Swiss watch brand Omega and was chosen as Business Insider’s Most Stylish Man in the World Right Now. Yep, the entire world. The Brit has been touted for his classic, cool style, his innate ability to look put together on even the most mundane occasions, such as when traveling from LHR to LAX, as he often does. Redmayne has a penchant for crewneck knits over slim-cut button-ups and is seldom seen without his signature structured collar, whether via a lapel on a jacket or a cowl on a sweater. And because some dress codes can be as unpredictable as London’s weather, layering is another of Redmayne’s everyday style go-tos; he’ll often wear a cardigan under a jacket or blazer and simply remove the coat should he feel overdressed. For more formal events, each of his many suits—most often by Prada, Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford or Burberry—is tailored to fit him precisely, to the point of “almost hugging” his lanky 5-foot-11-inch frame. “I’ve always worn suits, so I’ve always felt at ease in them,” he told Men’s Health a few years back, perhaps recalling his teenage years at Eton College, where the dress code required starched collars and tailcoats. “My dad is a dapper man,” said Redmayne, setting up a sly self-mock. “He wears suits for work, so maybe wearing them makes me feel subconsciously like I have a proper job.” Then he slipped the Freudians more ammo: “A well-cut suit feels like armor. If it’s tailored to fit, you feel strong.” Strong in showbiz, just possibly, is taking Oscar home before you’re 35; Redmayne was the first male born in the 1980s to win the statuette. And that was no fluke; he nabbed another nomination the following year, controversially cast as a transgender woman in The Danish Girl. He also stars in the Fantastic Beasts franchise, a spin-off of Harry Potter, and gets top billing in 2019’s period drama The Aeronauts. If he shines in Aaron Sorkin’s Chicago 7, he’ll be on the way to Hollywood immortality. Yet Redmayne doesn’t follow all Hollywood norms—he has no personal stylist, for example. Instead, Hannah Bagshawe, his publicist wife and the mother of his two children, has been dressing him for the red carpet. That’s why he informed the U.K.’s The Mirror back in 2016 that for his sartorial splendor “I can’t take much credit. “I’m color-blind,” Redmayne said with winning candor and humility, “so occasionally I’ll go for things that are slightly outlandish, and she’ll temper me back into the world of taste.” Oscar-winning British actor Eddie Redmayne is most comfortable in a suit—and a very slim-fitting one at that. “I like to feel the strength of the garment,” he says.

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FIND WHAT

SUITS YOU!

Whether it’s head-to-toe patterns or mix-and-match separates, this season’s tailored clothing gives you every opportunity to express yourself. Photography by Dan Springston

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Jacket: Isaia Shirt, tie and pocket square: Eton Jeans: Brunello Cucinelli

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This page: Suit, shirt, tie and pocket square: Isaia Bracelet: Tateossian Opposite: Jacket, shirt, tie, pants and pocket square: Isaia.

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This page: Jacket: Canali Shirt, tie and pocket square: Eton Pants: Ermenegildo Zegna Opposite: Tuxedo and shirt: Isaia Bowtie: Brackish Pocket square: Eton

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This page: Blazer: Canali Shirt, tie and pocket square: Eton Pants: Ermenegildo Zegna Opposite: Suit: Canali Shirt: Ermenegildo Zegna Pocket square: Eton

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PHOTO COURTESY OF ISAIA

As a thirdgeneration CEO, Gianluca Isaia credits his company’s success to a dedication to sartorial traditions and employee satisfaction.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF ISAIA

the

ISAIA IDEA A third-generation CEO explains one of the great names in Italian menswear. By Karen Alberg Grossman Founded in Naples in the 1920s, Isaia is a luxury lifestyle brand for men with personality and taste. Isaia’s Italian artisans still handcraft each garment in the Neapolitan sartorial tradition, though now it’s reinterpreted in a contemporary way. At the helm of this exclusive business is Gianluca Isaia, the third-generation CEO, who is famous in the menswear industry for his warmth, charm and creative sense of style. His mission: to help men discover their own personal style in clothing that’s modern, comfortable and very cool. We chatted with Gianluca recently about fashion, business and living life to the fullest. What are you proudest of? “That in 2020 we still hold true to our traditions as a family-owned company but are always looking to what’s new and contemporary. I’m also proud that, in my parents’ honor, we’ve launched a School of Tailoring in Casalnuovo near our factory. The school teaches the next generation of tailors the sartorial skills needed to continue the tradition of Napoli.” To what do you attribute Isaia’s success? “We live by passion. We take our craftsmanship very seriously, but we don’t take ourselves too seriously. We like to have fun and enjoy life, and it shows in everything we do. It’s important to me that all our associates wake up in the morning and look forward to going to work.” Can you discuss changes in suit styles for 2020? After getting as tight as they can get, are fits loosening up a bit? “Because we serve countries around the world, we have models that vary in fit. And while we’re always experimenting with new

initiatives, we believe our current fits cover the needs of our customers. So we’re not implementing any drastic fit changes at the moment. Globally, our customers appreciate Isaia’s approach: traditional tailoring with a contemporary twist. I want them to always feel comfortable in our garments.” So what’s new for spring 2020, and what will you be wearing? “This season, we took inspiration from the colors and décor of the Museum of Capodimonte in Napoli and the green area of the surrounding Real Bosco. We’re showing many incredible variations of pastels. Personally, my spring 2020 wardrobe includes T-shirts with Neapolitan references, knit shirts, foldable jackets to carry on my travels and, of course, sandals!” What will Isaia’s collection look like for fall 2020? “It’s inspired by underground Naples, a world of its own that reflects the intense and alluring appeal of the city’s history over the past couple of millennia. Isaia interprets this atmosphere through a palette of dark and earthy tones, inspired by a range of textures.” Isaia is known for quirky advertising. What’s your objective here? “We aim to tell stories with our ad campaigns. It’s not about just showing a suit or jacket that we’re trying to sell. It’s about communicating an idea. One of our most beloved campaigns was one we did in 2008 right after the U.S. stock market crash. It featured a man in a well-designed suit, hunched in a corner crying. It captured the sentiment of the time, showing a ‘real man,’ one who was not afraid to show emotion.”

Could you have been happy in a different line of work? “I’ve always been passionate about my work and I hope to inspire those I work with to bring the same level of dedication, creativity and appreciation for Napoli’s sartorial tradition to everything we do. However, I spend much of my time in Capri (especially in summer), and I’m always entertaining and hosting. If I had to choose another career, I would become a hotelier and open a boutique hotel, perhaps on Capri. I’d create an environment where interesting people from all over the world could come and experience the best wines, art, food, etc., in a luxe but eccentric environment.” How would you describe your personal style? “Truly my own and a bit irreverent. I often wear sandals with my suits!” How does Italian style differ from American style? “It’s all changing now. American men used to be more conservative when it came to silhouette, color, etc., but it’s become more fluid, which is great. American men are becoming more interested in cultivating their own personal style.” What are your top tips for men to look their best? “Be comfortable in your own skin. Be confident. Don’t try too hard to be perfect. (There is no such thing!) Make sure your clothing fits you properly. And if you’re not sure—ask for help! Try not to follow any rules, but if you must, heed only those that speak to you and ignore the rest.”

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EASY. BREEZY.

SHARP! Set your sartorial sights on clean-cut lines and no-fuss separates for a casual look that’s polished and cool. Photography by Dan Springston

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Sweater: Faherty Brand Shirt and shorts: Peter Millar

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This page: T-shirt: Faherty Brand Jeans: AG Hat: Eleventy Opposite: Blazer and sneakers: Eleventy

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ship ahoy

where to float

YOUR BOAT

Set a course for crossing the high seas in high style, and drop anchor at one of these five unforgettable yacht clubs that do our planet proud. By Daria Meoli YACHT CLUB DE MONACO

Monaco Is it any surprise that one of the most exclusive yacht clubs is in exclusive Monaco? Here, Russian power brokers rub elbows with Chinese titans of industry and European aristocrats. Many prestigious private yachts fly this club’s burgee, including one-quarter of the world’s 100 largest superyachts. This chic Mediterranean city-state dazzles with European glamour, fashion and motorsports but is also considered the world capital of yachting. A descendant of the Société des Régates, formed by a group of Monégasques (that’s Monaco folk) in the 1800s, the Yacht Club de Monaco was officially founded by Prince Rainier in 1953. His son Prince Albert II has been its president since 1984. Today, the club brings together more than 2,000 members from 66 nations. The architecture of the clubhouse resembles an enormous yacht docked along the foothills of Monte Carlo, with deck-like terraces that offer uninterrupted views of the regattas at sea and F1 Grand Prix races on the inland track. Besides a stunning swimming pool and an upscale seawater spa and wellness center, the members-only 1909 Restaurant offers fine cuisine in a picturesque setting. If you want in on the glamour of this club but your superyacht is in the shop, head to the adjacent Wine Palace, grab a glass of Bordeaux and cozy up on the piazza to watch the glitterati stroll by.

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YACHT CLUB COSTA SMERALDA

LYFORD CAY CLUB

Porto Cervo, Sardinia, Italy The scene at this Sardinian club can be summed up in three superlatives: super-exclusive, super-sized and super-fast. The winds around this port make the club one of the favorite destinations of the nautical jet set. Affiliated with the Italian Sailing and Italian Powerboat Federations, the club has been organizing regattas since 1972, specializes in races for superyachts and is the scene for the Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup. Costa Smeralda was founded in 1967 by the Aga Khan and his partners to serve ultra-wealthy vacationers. It features al fresco dining, a members’ lounge and a bar as well as first-class accommodations. While the club is a gathering place for business execs and financiers, all are welcome to indulge themselves in the original Acqua di Parma Spa inside the clubhouse.

Lyford Cay, New Providence, Bahamas In a time when boldfaced names can’t escape the media glare (or Instagram), this club on the western tip of New Providence offers a refuge for the weary wealthy. In fact, landlines rule in common areas, as mobile phones are not permitted. Founded in 1966 by Canadian businessman E. P. Taylor, the club is located in one of the world’s most affluent neighborhoods. For members who have included Henry Ford II, Sean Connery and the Bacardi family, this Bahamian landmark offers much more than a place to park your yacht. For starters, there’s access to whitesand beaches, an 18-hole golf course and an impeccably decorated clubhouse, recently redesigned by Tom Scheerer. At the heart of Lyford nightlife is Little Club, one of two on-site restaurants, where members indulge in cocktails and world-class cuisine.

CAROLINA YACHT CLUB

CRUISING YACHT CLUB OF AUSTRALIA

Charleston, South Carolina, United States The Old South’s history is palpable here in Charleston’s Battery neighborhood, named for the site’s Civil War coastal artillery battery. Plantation-style architecture, such as pillars supporting shade balconies and palmetto trees swaying along the Cooper River, evokes the era when the club was incorporated in 1888. The club is a stellar venue for two things: sailing and socializing. No other yacht club in the area can rival this one’s access to the picturesque Charleston Harbor. As for the socializing, the North Property is home to the dining facilities and includes a large ballroom. In July, the club hosts the Carolina Yacht Club Invitational Regatta, which gathers 250 competitors. The race is riveting, but the real excitement is the annual Commodore’s Reception, held on Saturday night for members and sailors.

Darling Point, New South Wales, Australia Serious sailors are acquainted with this legendary institution. Every Boxing Day for the past 75 years, it has hosted the Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race, known as the Mount Everest of ocean racing. This club appeals to competitive sailors who want to drop anchor and share a yarn about the day at sea. Considered the continent’s most prestigious club, it was founded in 1944 by enthusiasts who met on a regular basis to organize short races. Today, the club maintains a connection to yacht clubs of yore. While all are invited to the casual Sydney Hobart Bar, the members-only Coasters Retreat lounge has a strict dress code and is adorned with models and sailing relics of races gone by. A handy getaway from city life, the club is located between parkland and inner harbor waters with views of Sydney’s skyline. SPR IN G/SUMMER 2020 THE SU B STA N CE OF ST Y L E

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food

OUTSIDE Taking its cue from the lush traditions of Southern cooking, this alfresco summer supper is one even the host can enjoy.

In the annals of dinnertime hospitality, there are many strategies for “making it look easy.” Perhaps the most ingenious and diabolical of them is having it actually be easy. That’s the skinny on this outdoor dinner, perhaps with guests still drying off from a cooling dip. Setting the scandalously simple agenda is one of the to-die-for Southern-style recipes featured in celebrity chef and lifestyle expert Alex Hitz’s new tome, The Art of the Host: Recipes and Rules for Flawless Entertaining (Rizzoli New York). It’s a master class on hosting dinner parties, family brunches and holiday get-togethers with that unbeatable combination—delicious food and stunning presentation. And yes, many recipes are startlingly low-hassle. Everything served at this outdoor Los Angeles repast, for example, was prepared ahead of time and served cold—except for the chicken, which was extra tasty when warmed up slightly. Hitz’s hits include ideas as simple as adding a slice of lemon in a glass of water to adding color to your tablescape—or as clever as the blue-and-white gingham that serves as design inspiration. Your guests will toast your taste—and you’ll brazenly join in.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE ART OF THE HOST: RECIPES AND RULES FOR FLAWLESS ENTERTAINING

Take It


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food FALLING-OFF-THE-BONE BARBECUE CHICKEN WITH CAROLINA BARBECUE SAUCE Makes 10 servings Ingredients n 5 lbs. bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs n 1 tsp. salt n ½ tsp. ground black pepper n 4 Tbs. butter n 2 cups Carolina Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows) n 2½ cups chicken stock n 1 large white or yellow onion, cut in half and then thinly sliced into half-moons

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Directions Preheat the oven to 325°F. In a medium bowl, toss the chicken thighs with the salt and pepper until they are thoroughly coated. In a large heavy skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. When the foaming has subsided, sear the thighs until the skin is crisp and blackened in places. Assemble a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with the seared thighs, 1 cup of the barbecue sauce and the chicken stock. Place the sliced onions on the top and cover the baking dish tightly with aluminum foil. Bake the chicken for 2 hours 15 minutes. Remove it from the oven and transfer the chicken to a serving dish. Pour the remaining barbecue sauce on top of the chicken before serving.

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Carolina Barbecue Sauce 1½ pounds (6 sticks) butter, melted 2½ cups apple cider vinegar 2½ cups red wine vinegar ¾ cup dry mustard 7⁄8 cups Dijon mustard 2½ tsp. celery seed 2 Tbs. salt 36 cloves garlic, minced, to make ¾ cup 1½ cups dark brown sugar ¾ cup fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. nutmeg, freshly ground Add all ingredients to a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Stir the sauce until the brown sugar melts, approximately 5 to 7 minutes. Do not let the sauce boil.


HEIRLOOM TOMATO AND PEACH SALAD WITH BURRATA Makes 10 servings

Ingredients n 2 lbs. heirloom tomatoes, quartered, cut into eighths and then halved n 2 lbs. ripe peaches, pitted, peeled, quartered, cut into eighths and then halved

n 4 Tbs. fresh basil chiffonade n 6 Tbs. olive oil n 3 Tbs. balsamic vinegar n 1 tsp. salt n ¾ tsp. ground black pepper n 8 oz. excellent-quality burrata, sliced Directions Combine all of the ingredients, except for the burrata, in a large mixing bowl. Toss them well. Place the salad onto a serving platter and top it with generous slices of the burrata before serving it immediately.

PURPLE POTATO SALAD Makes 10 to 12 servings

Ingredients

n 2 lbs. purple potatoes n 1 large shallot, chopped n 4 green onions, chopped n 3 Tbs. fresh dill, chopped n ¾ cup sour cream n 2 Tbs. Dijon mustard n 2 Tbs. Hellman’s mayonnaise n ¾ tsp. salt n ¼ tsp. ground black pepper Directions Boil the potatoes in a large pot of very salty water until they are tender, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain them into a colander, let them cool slightly and cut them into quarters. Add them to a large mixing bowl, and then add the rest of the ingredients. Using a rubber spatula, mix the salad very well. Cover the salad and refrigerate it for at least 4 hours or up to 3 days—as with just about everything, the longer the better for the best flavor.

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BOURBON’S

new moment

The classic whiskey from the Bluegrass State evokes Americana like an old tintype. So why is it suddenly hot? By Darcey Gohring it’s an authentic spirit, made by real people like myself,” she says. “I believe the bourbon boom will continue for many years, because the world is just starting to discover it and we have a lot of room to grow across the globe.” Officially the nation’s only native spirit, bourbon is an American whiskey. Contrary to popular belief, it doesn’t actually have to be made in Kentucky—although 95 percent of it is, and loyalists say that without the state’s climate and local waters it just isn’t the same. Geography aside, the spirit does require three elements: corn, charred oak and time. It is that high concentration of corn that gives bourbon its initial sweet impression. The rest of the profile is influenced by factors such as aging, other ingredients (typically rye and barley) and the climate in which it is aged. The bourbon gets its rich, golden color—along with much of its flavor—from the charred oak. Besides mint juleps, bourbon can be used in other classics such as a Manhattan, an old fashioned or a whiskey sour or simply mixed into a sweet tea on a warm summer day. Purists say it’s even better served in a whiskey glass neat. If you’re trying bourbon for the first time, Gregory recommends starting with a lower proof and sampling different varieties. “There is a bourbon for every palate,” he says. “Bourbon is very elegant, but very complex. Every one has a little twist: They are all slightly different.” However you try this historic whiskey, take a cue from Kentucky natives—sit back, sip and take a moment to enjoy.

Traditional Mint Julep Ingredients n 2 oz. bourbon n ½ oz. simple syrup n 3 fresh mint leaves n crushed ice Directions Express the essential oils in the mint and rub them inside the glass. To the same glass, add simple syrup, bourbon and crushed ice. Stir. Garnish with more ice and fresh mint.

Elizabeth McCall, assistant master distiller, Woodford Reserve

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PHOTO COURTESY OF GETTY, INSET COURTESY OF WOODFORD RESERVE

On the second of May, the mint juleps are sure to be flowing at the 146th Kentucky Derby. And these days that cocktail’s main ingredient, the pride of the Bluegrass State, is finishing in the money. Long a bar staple, bourbon is booming again: In just the past decade, Kentucky alone has gone from under 20 distilleries filling about 450,000 barrels to almost 70 filling 1.7 million. Bourbon has always carried Kentucky, but what makes it newly cool in New York and San Francisco? The answer: a combination of younger people embracing it and bartenders appreciating its versatility in crafting cocktails. “There is a surging cocktail culture—it’s the Mad Men effect,” says Eric Gregory, president of the Kentucky Distillers’ Association. “People are looking for an authentic experience.” Elizabeth McCall, assistant master distiller at the well-known Kentucky distillery Woodford Reserve, agrees. “Bourbon has been gaining in popularity because


PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC

HAIR/MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY WARDROBE: WENDY MCNETT

archi/texture THIS SPRING, FORM MEETS FABRIC TO EXTRAORDINARY EFFECT. FOR DRESS-UP OR CASUAL, LIGHT AND LUXE TEXTURES FEEL AS FRESH AS THEY LOOK. SILHOUETTES, BOTH CLASSIC AND MODERN, ARE BUILT FOR EFFORTLESS ELEGANCE.


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Follow the

SHEEP

One of the many pleasures of a trip to Bandon Dunes, the wildly popular golf resort in southern Oregon, is to gather with your partners in the pub after your rounds and argue over which course is the best. The resort is home to four 18-hole layouts—Bandon Dunes, Pacific Dunes, Bandon Trails and Old Macdonald—all of which are among Golf magazine’s “Top 100 Courses in the United States.” Ask a dozen golfers to rate the quartet, and they’re apt to give you a dozen different rankings. Everyone has an opinion, and no one is wrong. Friendly debates are just part of the fun. And they’re about to get even more entertaining, because a fifth course at Bandon is in the works. It’s called the Sheep Ranch, and according to Golf, it might just be the finest of them all. Never mind the name; the Sheep Ranch, which will start welcoming guests on June 1, is not a ranch. Never has been. At one point, though, it was grazing ground for sheep. That was in the early aughts, when a rough-and-tumble layout was created on the site. To say the place was bare-bones is an understatement. It had just 13 holes, with no set routing; you could play the holes in any order that you liked. There was no irrigation system, only a fire truck for watering greens. A small flock of sheep served on the maintenance staff, chomping on the layout’s unkempt fairways. It was, in short, a quirky course, with an air of mystery around it. To arrange a tee time, you called the property’s caretaker and set up a rendezvous at a dirt road, where, for a greens fee of $100, he’d unlock a gate and let you in. But that was then. And it’s not how things will work at the Sheep Ranch anymore. Two years ago, the property’s longtime owners—Bandon Dunes developer Mike Keiser and business partSPR IN G/SUMMER 2020 THE SU B STA N CE OF ST Y L E

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF BANDONDUNESGOLF.COM

In Oregon starting this June, there’ll be a top-notch course where these shaggy creatures once grazed. By Josh Sens

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golf

Above: Luxe amenities and fine food and spirits await weary golfers at Bandon Dunes lodges and facilities. Left: Golf alongside one mile of pristine Pacific Coast oceanfront.

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ner Phil Friedmann—decided it was time to elevate the Sheep Ranch into a full-blown, world-class course. To orchestrate the project, they hired the celebrated design team of Coore & Crenshaw. Scrapping the original makeshift layout, Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw dreamed up a stunner in its place. Among the striking features of the Sheep Ranch is the way it seizes on the drama of its setting. The property includes roughly a mile of coastline, more than any of Bandon’s other courses, with nine greens located along the bluffs. Everywhere you look are ocean views, except when you turn inland. At that point, what you see are artfully shaped fairways, threading their green fingers through gorse and ghostly pines. Because the Sheep Ranch occupies a windy site, its design is willfully player friendly. There are no sand bunkers—only grass bunkers— and the greens are open in front, so you can bound your approach shots low, under the breezes. The routing is intimate, with holes radiating out from clustered tee boxes and a shared green for the third and 16th holes. But the grandeur of the coastline also lends the course an impressive sense of scale. Like most anyone who visits Bandon Dunes, Keiser is often asked to name his favorite course. His answer never varies: He’s equally in love with all of them. Come June, he’ll have one more to love. GARYS S P RING/S U M M E R 2 02 0


indulgences

cart

BLANCHE

Why do we love sports cars? Speed and style no doubt have much to do with it, but it’s that visceral urge to command a beautiful piece of machinery that really drives us to seek out the hottest wheels in which to hit the roads. Now, what if there were a way to achieve that same level of luxurious locomotion on the golf course? Introducing the Garia SuperSport, just one of the Danish brand’s family of golf cars. (Yes, cars, never carts.) This stylish vehicle, made primarily of carbon fiber, has everything any gear enthusiast could ask for in a souped-up, luxury automobile: a waterproof, chocolate-brown leather interior, hand-stitched lounge seats, a top-of-the-line infotainment system and a wi-fi connection. Of course, there are some additional bells and whistles specific to your golfing experience too: a touch-enabled digital scoreboard and even a built-in mini-fridge. The car runs in three liquid metal finishes—Diamond White, Selenite Gray and Black Carbon—each an elusive, extravagant choice for your ride

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that’s anything but par for the course when you’re riding alongside those typical club models. The grill’s golf ball-esque dimples may be the only feature that will remind you that you are, in fact, driving a golf cart. The SuperSport model was created, Garia says, with the style of a Mercedes-Benz in mind. The luxury automaker’s influence is easy to recognize, as the SuperSport’s driving finesse and sleek concept are unmistakably Mercedes-like. It doesn’t zoom up and down a fairway as fast as a Benz-y would on an open highway (it tops out at 25 mph in the U.S.—it is a golf cart), but it’s street legal in the U.S. and Europe and can be driven wherever the avid golfer behind the wheel dares take it. So, how much for your personal Benz-buggy hybrid to zip around on the golf green? The SuperSport starts at a cool $77,999 without shipping or labor fees. It’s a top-of-the-line automobile in its most practical form for any serious sportsman and a guaranteed hole-in-one.

PHOTO COURTESY OF CARSHOP.GARIA.COM

Take the wheel of the high-tech, eco-friendly Garia SuperSport golf vehicle, and everyone on the green will be green with envy. By Gianna Barone


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We know even the smallest of details is important to you. That is, after all, why you’re a Garys customer, right? For decades, our team of made-to-measure experts has been customizing the finest garments precisely to your specifications and personal taste. Now we’re happy to give you even more. At Garys, we’re excited to be one of the first stores in the U.S. to open a dedicated Atelier Munro shop. The young Amsterdam-based fashion house specializes in sleek tailoring for today’s discerning gentlemen, marrying superb quality, accessible prices and seemingly countless style choices. The result is a customized garment that is uniquely yours. Just 30 days after our tailors take your measurements, you’ll be fitted as the final step before taking home the pieces you designed. And it’s more than just formalwear and business suits. Atelier Munro also caters to guys who embrace the business-casual look, from neat jackets and polos to five-pocket pants and footwear. With Garys and Atelier Munro, your sartorial options are almost endless.

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KEEP YOUR SHIRT ON

More than two dozen components go into the best custom shirts, and we’re not just talking about the garments you wear under a tuxedo or suit jacket. Atelier Munro custom crafts casual Friday go-tos such as polos and popovers precisely to your taste, and like its dress shirts, these pieces are made of fabrics sourced from Italy’s finest mills. Sure, the Dutch brand boasts a vibrant ready-to-wear collection, but fashion luxury means getting what you want and how you want it. Brushed cotton or linen? Classic or stretch? Oxford or twill? Paisley or striped? Atelier Munro does it all—and so much more.

THE BOTTOM LINE

It’s a fact that today’s modern man cherishes a custom suit—the jacket and trousers. With that in mind, Atelier Munro gives the same special attention devoted to suits to every pair of pants that it makes, from formalwear to dress chinos to denim. Yes, Atelier Munro will create jeans exactly to your liking. No longer will it take countless washes and wears to “break in” your jeans and five-pocket pants; tailors use your measurements so your bottoms fit and feel like a glove from day one. And to make certain your jeans and chinos are uniquely you, experts will work with you to build the perfect pair—dark or light wash, moleskin or cord, stretch or rigid, selvage or raw. Sure, many brands offer superb off-the-rack pieces, but nothing is more personal than custom pants by Atelier Munro.

TREAT YOUR FEET

Marathon runners and basketball players aren’t the only ones who wear sneakers on the job. As more offices embrace a business-casual environment, guys are passing on brogues and cap toes in favor of softer, cozier kicks. This, of course, doesn’t mean gentlemen should rely on sporting goods or warehouse stores to find their footwear. A true head-to-toe and made-to-measure company, Atelier Munro will help you create the perfect pair of luxury sneakers, whether you use them for work or weekends. Instead of excessive branding and bold logos, these sneakers are marked by the finest calfskin and suede, with options that look great when paired with a suit or joggers. Low-top or mid, double monk strap or Velcro—or even a Chelsea boot sneaker—Atelier Munro is a step in the right sartorial direction.

A LITTLE EXTRA

Jacket? Check. Shirt? Check. Denim? Check. Sneakers? Check. The final pieces of the business-casual puzzle are the accessories. Pair jeans with a self-designed leather or suede belt: You pick the color, buckle and more. And don’t forget to finish a smart sportcoat-andjeans look with a pocket square in your choice of fabric, pattern and monogram, of course.

PHOTO COURTESY OF MUNRO

the munro DOCTRINE

final stitch

As dress codes relax, so can you. The Dutch design house believes in creating a casual look that’s uniquely you—and quickly too. By Darius Amos

THE CASUAL COMPONENTS


PERBACCO FINE FOODS LOGO

Perbacco imports the finest Italian foods. The meaning of “PERBACCO” in Italian means “By Heavens / Wow!” and that is how we want to make you feel when you taste our food products. PERBACCO...this food is delicious!

Il Mulino di Gragnano Durum Pasta from the birthplace of dry pasta in Italy, 100% pure Italian grain. Certified Organic & Kosher. Endorsed by European Michelin star chefs. Proudly sold and served at the Vatican City. Available in 14 different types.

Pasta di Campofilone Marilungo is our top choice for Egg Pasta. 100% Italian grain. 37% free range egg content. Available in 11 different types & flavors.

The Corbara Tomatoes are naturally grown in the mineral rich volcanic soil of Mt. Vesuvius. Awarded best tomatoes by the Guardian Newspaper in the UK in 2016. Available in jars & cans.

You can find our special products in these fine stores: VICENTE FOODS 12027 San Vicente Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90049 (310) 472-5215 IRVINE RANCH MARKET 2651 Irvine Ave. Costa Mesa, CA 92627 (949) 631-4404

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Profile for Wainscot Media

Garys Spring/Summer 2020  

Garys Spring/Summer 2020