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garmany SPRING / SUMMER 2009

Spring Fashions

partying aboard the Royal Scotsman

golf’s new test at Bandon Dunes

THE AUDI R8

road rocket: the Audi R8

summer wines from Chinon

Cary Grant Style

bedrooms made for dreaming

Gildo Zegna: wizard of wool

BANDON DUNES

new watches by Patek Philippe

Bedroom Escapes PATEK PHILIPPE SPRING / SUMMER 2009

Lighten Up!

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Garmany’s Guide to Great New Looks

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©T&CO. 2009 RED BANK 105 BROAD STREET 732 345 8150 TIFFANY.COM

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HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600 www.hugoboss.com


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Page 12

{ contents }

86

features AUTOMOTIVE

/

Audacity Pays Off

Audi took a chance on the R8, a mid-engine exotic that goes head to head with revered sports cars and comes out a winner. ~-~ ~-~

92

70

HOME

/

And So to Bed ‌

These perfectly tailored bedrooms will set you dreaming. WATCHES

/

~-~

74

~-~

Heirloom Apparent

Tradition and innovation meet in the elegant watches of Patek Philippe.. T R AV E L

81

~-~

A Rolling Highland Fling

/

Great food, single malts and bonhomie prove to be just the ticket aboard the most luxurious of touring trains. ~-~ ~-~

86

FASHION

/

Lighten Up!

Lightweight fabrics and saturated colors make these great new looks easy to wear. ~-~ ~-~

92

Cover:

She wears a top and pants from Malo and croc cuff by Suzie Roher, and carries a Roberto Cavalli handbag. He wears a navy pinstripe suit and paisley shirt from Etro, a Gucci belt and a Brunello Cucinelli pocket square.

81

70

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FALL • WINTER 2008

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Page 16

{ contents }

10 8

departments

ICON:

Cary Grant Swagger, simplicity and a perfect fit were among Hollywood legend Cary Grant’s sartorial secrets.

Invitation to style Here’s looking at you!

16

The Garmany Guide

46

Artful windows … Great acts at Count Basie … In the swim with Vilebrequin … Are your suits up to snuff? … Q&A with Johnell … Women’s fashion …

19 Casual sophistication and sex appeal characterize men’s accessories this season.

39

Hot Stuff A leather bag by Brunello Cucinelli will only get better with age.

42

Essentials for Men Texture, hardware and subtle color contrasts add richness to this season’s brown dress shoes.

44

108

Yamazaki 18-year-old, a complex whisky from Japan, will wow any Scotch lover.

26

114

Grape Cynthia Hurley shares her love affair with Chinon.

118

Horoscope Cancers should consider a leather jacket by Gimo’s, says Kiki T. See her style advice for your sign.

122

Service Directory

126

INTERVIEW:

Gildo Zegna A full century into its history, Ermenegildo Zegna remains a global leader in men’s luxury clothing. Meet the man behind the brand.

46

Resources Where to find additional products mentioned in this issue.

127

Finishing Touch

Sportswear

50

Essentials for Women Lift your spirits and make an impression with coordinated warm-weather shoes and accessories.

56

Massive greens and hellish bunkers are among the challenges at Old Macdonald, the new golf course at Bandon Dunes.

Your guide to the amenities of the Garmany Experience.

THE GARMANY

34

The Sporting Life

Malt

Accessories

Hit the beach with Gucci.

66

Dos and don’ts for the welldressed man.

128 24


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SAINT TROPEZ

SINCE 1971 IN SAINT-TROPEZ 14 et 24, rue Gambetta – 1, rue de la Poste – Place de la Garonne

WWW.VILEBREQUIN.COM

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{ invitation to style } 121 BROAD STREET · RED BANK, NJ 7 3 2 . 5 7 6 . 8 5 0 0 w w w. g a r m a n y. c o m

Store Hours MONDAY TO SATURDAY:

9:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Editorial Directors JOHNELL GARMANY

HERE’S

LOOKING

AT

YOU!

LARRY GARMANY

Editor & Publisher MARK DOWDEN Creative Director AMY A. DOWDEN

You hold in your hands a break

Art Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO

from the gloom-and-doom that

Contributing Editors JENNIFER CENICOLA,

pervades the media these days.

STEFANIE GARMANY, CAROLINE GOYETTE, CYNTHIA HURLEY, TIMOTHY KELLEY,

Our small corner of the media,

IAN KEOWN,MARIA LISSANDRELLO,

GARMANY magazine, is guaran-

FRANCESCA MOISIN, PAUL ROGERS, KIKI T.

teed to be gloom-free. This is a

Contributing Photographers

feel-good magazine custom craft-

MICHAEL COGLIANTRY, DANNY SANCHEZ, DANIEL SPRINGSTON, TIM STREET-PORTER

ed to brighten your day. Another way to lift your mood, of course, is by dressing

Art Associate LAURA CARAMAGNA

In any climate, dressing well

Corporate Editorial Director

is a strategic advantage.

RITA GUARNA

well. But the main reason for lookNational Advertising Manager

ing your best is much more fundamental than the feel-good effect:

SHAE MARCUS

People judge you by your appearance. This is the case in business, in Sneak

PEEKS

Advertising Account Executives

matters of romance, even in the way you’re treated at restaurants.

JODI LASALA, STEPHANIE STAIANO

Quite simply, the good things in life come more quickly and easily

Advertising Sales Assistant

when you present yourself well.

SABA KAHN

Production Manager CHRISTINE HAMEL

That may be truer than ever in today’s economic climate. Writing in The Wall Street Journal, Christina Binkley recently observed that old-

Advertising Services Manager THOMAS RAGUSA

school power attire has roared back into vogue in just the last six

Senior Art Director, Agency Services

months. In chronicling the new formality, she profiled the law firm

KIJOO KIM

Bickel & Brewer, a bastion of traditional dressing that scorned the fad Step lively!

of “business casual” and now is seen as a sartorial leader. At the firm,

see page 44

which has offices in New York and Dallas, even the mail-room workers

Accounting AGNES ALVES, MAGDALENA SZARGUT

Published by

wear suits and ties. “I think people expect high-powered lawyers to look like high-powered lawyers,” Bill Brewer, a founding partner, was

Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN

quoted as saying. “Anything else is sending the wrong signal.”

President MARK DOWDEN

In other words, dressing well confers a strategic advantage.

Executive Vice President JOEL EHRLICH

This philosophy is working for Bickel & Brewer, which has become

Senior Vice President EDWARD BURNS

one of the most successful litigation firms in the U.S. And we dare

Vice Presidents AMY A. DOWDEN,

say it can work for you, no matter what your calling in life. As we’re

NIGEL EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, SHANNON STEITZ, SUZANNE TRON

fond of saying, everyone can be a brand of renown.

Regional Sales Director

And speaking of success, we close with a word of thanks to

DOUGLAS C. BARKER

those who have made Garmany a leading destination store: our dedi-

Swiss miss

Director of Marketing

cated staff, our vendor companies and, most important, our loyal cus-

CHRISTOPHER KAEFER

tomers. We value our customer relationships above all else, and in

Circulation Director LAUREN MENA

that spirit, we look forward to seeing you soon in Red Bank.

see page 28 JOHNELL GARMANY

purchase it or simply learn more, please call us at 732-576-8500.

/

SPRING • SUMMER 2009

JOHNELL & LARRY PHOTO BY DANNY SANCHEZ

P.S. If you see something you like in this issue and would like to

16

GARMANY Magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Garmany. Copyright © 2009 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved.

LARRY GARMANY

Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, GARMANY, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Garmany, 121 Broad Street, Red Bank, NJ 07701; telephone 732.576.8500. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.


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{ the

garmany guide } Keeping up

with KITON

Artful windows Two years ago Garmany began a seasonal tradition: exhibiting paintings of noteworthy artists in its windows and in the store. The spring exhibit features Soonae Tark, whose bold, flat color surfaces convey piles of shapes that suggest the balance, or imbalance, of life. Each day the artist repeats the process of building these works, “like placing a stone on a mountaintop cairn.” Soonae Tark’s exhibit runs through May. From June through August, the featured artist will be Joyce Anastasia Urbanski. Her Saturation still-life paintings (see above) are large, monochromatic studies of everyday objects. She may juxtapose a gas can, a Clorox bottle and a fine porcelain vase—disparate pieces given coherence by a dominant color theme. “Great art adds real drama to the shopping experience,” says Larry Garmany. “Our customers love the sense of being at a gallery or museum.” Soonae Tark and Joyce Anastasia Urbanski are represented by James Yarosh Associates of Holmdel; www.jamesyarosh.com.

“Kiton” may sound faintly Japanese, but it turns out to be an Italian derivation of the Greek chiton, a ceremonial tunic worn by the ancients to pray on Mt. Olympus. The choice says something about Ciro Paone’s outsized ambitions for the clothing company he founded 40 years ago. But no one would argue that the firm has grown into its fanciful name: Around the globe, Kiton has become synonymous with fine Neapolitan tailoring. Paone believes in hand-tailoring, and he believes in specialization. Except for the center seam in the back of the jacket and the bottom of pocket linings, every stitch in a Kiton suit is sewn by hand. A pocket cutter specializes in lining up the fabric pattern just so; a buttonhole expert sews only buttonholes, and so forth. When all is said and done, at least 45 tailors work on every suit. Hand-tailoring and superior fabric—to say nothing of the special inner architecture and cut of the jacket—make wearing a Kiton suit feel, says Paone, “like you are wearing nothing.” We invite you to drop by Garmany and put his boast to the test.

Shown at left is Persol model 2864.

Scaling the heights of cool People who climb the Himalayas for fun—like the team that conquered Cho Oyu, the “Turquoise Goddess,” in the early

Below, in The Thomas Crown Affair, a dapper Steve McQueen wore the Persol 714 Havana frame with blue lenses.

‘90s—tend to rely on Persol sunglasses for their technical excellence. Those who prefer to chill near sea level, on the other hand, are more likely to choose Persols because they’re the height of cool. Either reason makes total sense. The story of Persol goes back to 1917, when Giuseppe Ratti, an Italian photographer, invented Protector glasses—large, smoked lenses with rubber edges that affixed to the head with elastic bands. These are the bug-eyed goggles you see in early photos of car races and barnstorming biplanes. By the ’30s, Protectors had evolved into Persols with all of their trademark details: the famous yellowbrown lens, made of neutral crystal from the purest silica; the Silver Arrow, a hinge decorated with an arrow on the stem; and the Meflecto system that allows the stems to be bent for maximum comfort. Introduced to the U.S. in 1962, Persols became the on-screen and real-life choice of Steve McQueen, who dug the ocular protection. If you’re cool with that, check out the full line at Garmany. SPRING

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garmany guide}

Great acts at Count Basie The newly restored Count Basie Theatre in Red Bank features a terrific program of concerts. Here are several upcoming shows that appeal to our musical taste—not to mention our sense of nostalgia. To see the complete events calendar or purchase tickets, visit www.countbasietheatre.org. All shows start at 8 p.m. May 14: The B-52s, big-haired scenesters from a quarter-century ago, will take the stage to perform “Rock Lobster,” “Love Shack,” “Roam” and lesser-known hits. (Remember “She Came From Planet Claire”?) Tickets: $38 to $128

Get in the swim with Vilebrequin

May 16: Dion. After his stint with the Belmonts, Dion Dimucci became the first rock artist signed by Columbia Records. His string of solo hits includes “Runaround Sue” and “Abraham, Martin and John.” Tickets: $29.50 to $75

Those of us who aren’t fluent in French can hesitate over the double-barreled brand name. Simply say “veal” (as in veal saltimbocca), “breck” (as in the shampoo) and “anne” (as in Anne Hathaway). Vilebrequin swim trunks have stood for quality and high summer style since they were popularized on the beaches of Saint-Tropez in the ’70s. The batik turtle print shown here is more subtle than Vilebrequin’s typically wild patterns. But close inspection reveals that more than half a dozen colors were used to create the rich blue “sea” in which these turtles swim. Whether you plan to hit the French Riviera or the MidAtlantic Riviera, wearing Vilebrequin will brighten your stay.

ALL-ACCESS PASS:

SATURDAY, APRIL 18 Isaia men’s fashions

the trunk show Trunk shows are a vestige of the early days of apparel retailing, when manufacturers’ representatives would visit stores with trunks full of the latest fashions, and store owners would choose the items that best suited their customers. Nowadays, we go straight to designers’ showrooms in Milan, Naples, New York and elsewhere to select merchandise for each season. But the trunk show lives on—giving you the opportunity to see and purchase items from a designer’s entire line. Here are some of the trunk shows coming up at Garmany.

June 5: The Dave Grisman Quintet features Dave Grisman himself. One of the all-time great mandolin players, Dave plays “Dawg Music,” a memorable mix of swing, bluegrass, Latin, jazz and gypsy. Tickets: $19.50 to $39.50

SATURDAY, APRIL 25 Brioni men’s fashions FRIDAY, MAY 1 & SATURDAY, MAY 2 Moreschi men’s shoes Robert Zur men’s shoes SATURDAY, MAY 2 Kiton men’s fashions

French lessons in color As anyone who has bought a Charvet necktie or Vilebrequin swim

MONDAY, MAY 4 & TUESDAY, MAY 5 Escada women’s fashions

trunks at Garmany knows, the French are experts at designing with color. This heritage is reflected not just in fashion but also in interior design, as ably translated to America by Pierre Deux. Located next door to Garmany in the same building as

Isaia

Tiffany & Co., Pierre Deux features upholstered furniture, fabrics, wall coverings and more—as well as Thursday evening classes on how to achieve color harmony in your home. Call 732-383-7479 or drop

Robert Zur

20

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by the store to learn more.

SUMMER 2009

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{ the

garmany guide}

A smart day at the beach The Mercedes-backed Smart car is the automotive equivalent of a puppy: Take it to the park or the beach, and you’re bound to make new friends who find your ride “cute as a button.” The more enviro-minded of these magnetized acquaintances may also want to know, “Does it really get 41 mpg on the highway?” The answer is yes, it would, if you ever chose to get the Smart up to speed. In terms of power, however, this puppy is the anti-Benz. It maxes out at 70 hp, and its proportions—as high as it is wide—do not inspire a sense of highway safety. So don’t go there. Buy a Smart for lone runs to the grocery, tooling around town or getting from your house to the beach. Short of that ’39 Woody wagon you’ve always wanted, the Smart is a pretty choice beach car—especially if you engage in some wild customization. The photo shows one option: the limited edition Ed Hardy Smart Car, available as a complete car or a conversion kit; www.EdHardySmartCar.com.

THE A-to-Z LIST With nearly 100 designer brands under one roof, you’d think we’d hardly have room to move. Quite the contrary: Our designer shop-within-a-shop concept maintains the boutique feel, with plenty of elbow room, not to mention 49 dressing rooms. See if you don’t find your favorites in our list below. Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love. AG Adriano Goldschmied

Ermenegildo Zegna

Laurentino

Schumacher

Akris

Escada

Malo

Scotch & Soda

Aquatalia

Etro

Marc Jacobs

Scott Kay

Artico

Fillmore

Monique Lhuillier

7 for all Mankind

Badgley Mischka

Gimo’s

Moreschi

Theory

Brioni

Gucci

Mulberry

Tommy Bahama

Brunello Cucinelli

Hiltl

Paul Smith

Tory Burch

Burberry

Hugo Boss

Pink Tartan

Tumi Luggage

Canali

Incotex

Polo by Ralph Lauren

Valentino

Charles Chang-Lima

Isaia

Ralph Lauren Women

Victorinox

Charles Nolan

John Varvatos

Robert Zur

Vilebrequin

Charvet

Kiton

Roberto Cavalli

Wolford

Salvatore Ferragamo

Xacus

Chip & Pepper Cole Haan

Brioni

Zac Posen

Collette Dinnigan

Zanella

Diesel

and more …

Dolce & Gabbana Donald J Pliner Earnest Sewn

Aqautalia

Akris Scott Kay

22

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Art is an investment that rewards the heart and the mind.

F E AT U R I N G WO R K B Y D O Z E N S O F F I N E A RT I S T S TOLL-FREE: 1-888-800-3933 • LOCAL: 732-328-2255

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{ the

garmany guide}

Your missing

LINKS

Red coral is a traditional good luck charm in Naples. It’s

ing attention since she left a career in accounting 15 years ago for an intern-

also the fitting emblem of Isaia, the Naples-based maker of

ship in metal design at Parsons. The Wharton grad and former management

men’s tailored clothing. Don an Isaia suit or sportcoat, and

consultant for a Big Eight firm used her business know-how to start her own

you can’t help but feel that good luck will come your way.

jewelry atelier, which she built on miniature masterpieces. Leslie’s best-sellers are whimsical designs from the animal kingdom—a

24

/

Good luck charm from Napoli

Designer Jan Leslie’s meticulously handcrafted cufflinks have been attract-

The genius of Isaia design is the way it blends the classic Neapolitan look with contemporary styling: An Isaia jacket

sterling silver bee (or is it a yellow jacket?) with abdomen and stinger hand-

features the signature soft, rounded shoulder and a flatter-

painted in layers of vibrant enamel, a pink crocodile, a black Lab. … Worn as

ing, slimming silhouette. This increasingly popular label is be-

part of an otherwise conservative look, these beauties provide a pop of color

ing showcased at Garmany in a new boutique setting, shown

at the wrist and tell the world you have a sense of humor.

here, where the red coral motif is part of the décor.

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German engineering for your trousers

Key accessories for spring

In an era of brand diversification, it’s refreshing that Hiltl, maker of some of the world’s best trousers since 1955, has steadfastly resisted the urge to make anything but trousers. “We never wanted to be the biggest, just the very best,” said founder Fritz Hiltl, and the company has stayed true to his vision. Being the best means dedication to craftsmanship, using the best materials and achieving a perfect fit. The goal is to ensure that every pair of Hiltls is of made-to-measure quality, and in pursuit of that goal, “we are quality freaks,” says managing director Franz Josef Wolf. Here are a few of the ways his tailors get their freak on: by using custom-made, nickel-free metal zippers that stand up to abusive dry-cleaning; by affixing only genuine horn buttons with heavy-duty stitching; by reinforcing pocket inlets with crescent-shaped welting; by using extra-long viscose frontal lining to ensure full coverage of the knees and prevent bulging; by creating extremely narrow-stitched seams that won’t “press through” during ironing—an advantage with today’s lightweight, high-performance fabrics. In short, German engineering stands for something in the world of trousers, no less than in the world of automobiles. Pants made by Hiltl look right, feel right and last a long time, which is why Garmany is pleased to carry them.

In the year-and-a-half since Tiffany & Co. opened next door to Garmany, the famous jeweler has become a Red Bank fixture. What’s new for spring? Store manager Vicky Shortland says customers are enthusiastic about the new Tiffany Keys Collection, which is inspired by keys from the Tiffany & Co. Archives. The fanciful designs, shown above, include medallion-shaped keys, heart-shaped keys and flower-topped keys. Suspended from fine, ball or oval-link chains, each is expressed in 18k yellow or white gold, platinum with diamonds, or sterling silver. “Worn alone or layered,” says Shortland, “these pendants are a great fashion accessory that unlocks each wearer’s personal style.”

SUMMER 2009

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{ the

garmany guide} Are your suits up to snuff?

OUT

IN Narrower, soft shoulders High-notch lapels or peak lapels

Wide, padded shoulders Low-notch or “dropped” lapels

Long before a suit wears out, shifts in

Elongated armholes

High armholes

style can leave the garment and its wearer

High button stance

Low button stance

looking sadly out of date. This list of what’s

One-, two- or three-button jacket

Jacket left at home or in the car

in and what’s out will help you edit your closet and determine which suits and sportcoats need replacing.

Boxy jacket

Slight waist suppression Slightly shorter jacket length

Longer jacket length Polyester blends

High-performance blends of natural fibers

The suit pictured here, from the

Flat-front pants or simply pleated pants

Triple- and quadruple-pleated pants

Ermenegildo Zegna spring collection, is

Room for concealed weapons in pant leg

Slimmer leg line

an example of the current look.

Slight or no break in pant fabric at the cuff

Pant fabric pooling over your shoes

Gucci gets rocking As a staffer at the Savoy Hotel in London, a young Italian named Guccio Gucci soaked up the refined taste of the English nobility. He brought this aesthetic back to his native Florence, where in

photo tk

1921 he opened a small leather-goods shop. Beautifully designed and masterfully crafted, his leather goods were the building blocks of the House of Gucci, destined to become the world’s most famous Italian brand. Garmany carries a wide selection from Gucci—not only bags, shoes and other leather items, but also men’s clothing. Since Frida Giannini, another young Florentine, became creative director for the label three years ago, she has created major buzz around its collections. Her highly personal interpretation of Gucci’s heritage brings a touch of rocker attitude to men’s clothing and sportswear. As you’ll see throughout this issue of GARMANY, the look is confident, contemporary and sexy. Exquisite fabrics and flawless, detailed handwork are also part of the picture—just as one would expect from Gucci.

GAR.guide.indd 26

Personality on parade The bombshell. The eccentric. The sophisticate. Each gets her style due in Simone Werle’s Fashionista: A Century of Style Icons (new from Prestel). From Audrey Hepburn’s simple elegance to Brigitte Bardot’s pinup glamour to Bjork’s flights of fancy, this sumptuous tome profiles 50 stars whose style has influenced how women dress today. A true celebration of fashion, the book is filled with memorable photos that just might inspire you to set a trend or two of your own.

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{ the

garmany guide}

Latin grooves for a summer party You need only walk down Broad Street to know Garmany is a party kind of place: The music playing in the store is piped right onto the sidewalk, and the tunes are invariably catchy, upbeat and energizing. We asked Larry Garmany to help readers take the party home by putting together a playlist for a warm-weather get-together with friends. His fresh mix of two dozen songs has a definite Latin flavor, with enough samba, flamenco and other dance styles to get guests on their feet.

AKRIS: discretion advised Women who love dressing in Akris—and there are many, from Nicole Kidman to Princess Caroline of Monaco—do not flaunt their brand preference. Rather, they tend to be like the clothing itself: understated, refined and simply chic. “Creativity should not tempt us to put women in fancy dress,” says Akris designer Albert Kriemler. “My collection should emphasize the personality of a woman … discreetly.” True to this philosophy, Kriemler, who with his brother Peter runs the family company founded by their grandmother, designs gorgeous dresses and jackets with clear shapes and simple lines. The Akris look is confident, distinctly feminine and sexy in a restrained way. Akris is also about the feel—quite literally—as well as the look of the clothes. Kriemler uses a lot of cashmere and silk “double-face”— two material layers connected by an invisible seam. Tailoring it requires special processes and handcraftsmanship, so much so that it takes two days, on average, for tailors to produce an Akris jacket. The result is so perfect that the jacket could be worn inside out and look good. That’s not the point, of course. The point is that the garment feels marvelous next to the skin. All Akris clothing is produced in the company’s workshops in St. Gallen, Zurich and the canton of Ticino, Switzerland. But you need only visit Garmany to discover the Akris difference. Let’s keep this our little secret, shall we?

Bambino Nel Tempo by EROS RAMAZZOTTI As If by SARA EVANS Carnaval de Sao Vicente by CESÁRIA ÉVORA Better Days by STEPHANE POMPOUGNAC Do It by NELLY FURTADO Bombón de Azúcar by RICKY MARTIN Fly Me to the Moon by ASTRUD GILBERTO Como Quieres Que te Quiera by ROSARIO FLORES Jungle Fever by THE CHAKACHAS Con Mi Sombra by S-TONE INC. I Wanna Dance by WILLY CHIRINO El Ritmo Gitano by CHICO & THE GYPSIES Looking 4 Happiness by NAÏVE (2) Sarandonga by LOLITA Elle by JULIO IGLESIAS Bandido by AZÚCAR MORENO

Al Di La by PAULIE TEARDROPS

Exilio by THIEVERY CORPORATION

Godfather by FRANCISCO PAZ

Europa by GATO BARBIERI Le Géant de Papier by JEAN-JACQUES LAFON

Rhythm Divine by ENRIQUE IGLESIAS Sábanas Frías by MANÁ Me Gusta Estar Viva by PALOMA SAN BASILIO

Mark your social calendar The social scene in Red Bank and neighboring coastal towns heats up as the weather turns warmer. Here are select local charity galas and gatherings for spring and early summer. From black tie to beachwear, Garmany can outfit you properly for any of these events. April 18: Two River Theatre Company’s Anniversary Gala. Founders Joan & Robert Rechnitz will be honored. Phillip Seymour Hoffman is the special guest. Join them for cocktails, dinner on the stage, entertainment and more. To request an invitation, contact dnorris@trtc.org. May 1: The Derby Ball. This gala honoring Bill and Sandy Mullaney will be hosted by Prevention First at The Shadowbrook in Shrewsbury. To order tickets, call Michelle Cicalese at 732-663-1800, ext. 219. May 2: Run for the Roses, Race for the Cure. The Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation will 28

/

SPRING

GAR.guide.indd 28

hold its annual gala at Stillwell Stables in Colts Neck. To order tickets, call Kenna Brockriede or Patti Gatta at 732-219-6654. June 20: “New York, New York” Cancer Ball. The American Cancer Society will host its 42nd annual ball at River Wind Estate, 700 Navesink Road, Middletown. To order tickets, call Allie Hall at 732-758-8259, ext. 223. June 25: The Best of Monmouth. Favorite restaurants, bars and shops will share their wares at Branches in West Long Branch. Try the best cheese, chocolate, margaritas and more. Order tickets at www.thebestofmonmouth.com. July 3: Kaboom fireworks on the Navesink. This annual favorite will begin at 9 p.m. or dusk. July 4 is the rain date. For more information, visit www.kaboomfireworks.org.

SUMMER 2009

4/3/09 7:26:36 PM


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4/3/09 8:16:00 PM


{ the

garmany guide } Speaking of old casual, I see the Nehru jacket is back in fashion. Seriously? Yes. Ermenegildo Zegna, for instance, is showing a tab-collared sportcoat that’s influenced by Indian fashion. We don’t stock this design,

Elements of

but we can order it for you. Is it OK to wear a button-down shirt with a suit?

MEN’S STYLE ... in which JOHNELL GARMANY saves us from embarrassing ourselves

You mean a shirt with a button-down collar. Often people say “button-down shirt” when they mean button-front shirt. My answer is no—avoid this pairing. In the Ivy League look, which dominated American business dress in the 1960s, the typical dress shirt was oxford cloth with a button-down collar and barrel cuffs. This uniform was conservative, no-nonsense and in its way very casual. Today, a plain point collar with a moderate or wide spread is considered the

Johnell, what’s in for spring?

correct style to wear with a suit. It’s more elegant and versatile than a

Printed sportshirts are very popular now—paisleys, geometrics, stylized florals and, in the case of

What’s going on with shoes? I see some crazy pairings—shoes that

Gucci, travel scenes that remind me of certain

don’t match the clothes a guy is wearing?

shirts from the ’70s.

True. Shoes let you introduce pleasing contrast to a look. You can do this in

Patterned sportcoats are big right now—plaids, windowpanes and stripes. These are often worn with contrasting pants. For example, we have a great navy cashmere sportcoat

The next step is to contrast formality with informality, or vintage with new.

What are some current examples of desirable contrast in footwear? Wearing distressed dress shoes by Paul Smith with a suit, or wearing Gucci or Paul Smith sneakers with the same brand of sportcoat. Sneakers are very in. It would be going too far to wear them with a tuxedo or a suit unless you’re an actual rock star. But sneakers can be worn with just

which is best paired with

about anything else. The flip side is to wear dress shoes with jeans,

also see more cotton sportcoats in solids or patterns. Suits are becoming more popular outside of business settings, even for very young guys. In part this may be a reflection of the economy—a more sober look for sobering times. But even conservative suits are being worn in relaxed ways: without a tie, with a print sportshirt.

What about colors? There are a couple of trends. Soft greys, blues, tans and taupes

Warm weather picks (from left) include colorful

are showing up a lot. And so are

printed shirts by Etro,

strong colors, such as pink, yellow

a striped suit by

and vibrant blues.

Dolce & Gabbana, a funky

I’ve been hearing about the

suit from Etro, and flip-

“new casual.” What’s that—

flops from Paul Smith.

same as the old casual? There are so many “old casuals”—leisure suits, parachute pants—most of them best forgotten! The “new casual” is dressy but relaxed.

which is another cool look. Wearing velvet slippers to a cocktail party is considered hip, especially in Palm Beach, where that look seems to have originated.

Are velvet slippers your style? Not really. I wear all kinds of bench-made Italian shoes, from Gucci loafers to Ferragamo lace-ups. I wear Moreschi and Paul Smith’s footwear, as you know, and various brands of sneakers. And I do like boots, whether distressed or polished.

At some level, the same rule of contrasting footwear holds true for women, yes? Wearing Ugg boots with a miniskirt: hot. Wearing Wellington boots with a bathing suit: even hotter.

But when women wear sneakers with anything dressy, it’s a mistake. Remember Melanie Griffith schlepping around New York City in Working Girl? She looked great—from the ankles up. “Commuter shoes” are a bad idea for both sexes.

But driving shoes are a good choice. Sure, drivers are great, even if you’re not driving. They’re like the love child of a loafer and a moccasin. These shoes are stylish and very comfortable at the same time.

Are there any shoe pairings men should avoid? Crocs with anything. Boat shoes with socks. Dress shoes with knee socks

Specifically, it’s softly tailored sartorial

and Bermuda shorts, unless you’re Bermudan and in Bermuda at the time.

clothing in soft fabrics. An example for

What about spectator shoes—those two-tone wingtips from the 1920s and

warm weather would be a cashmere sport-

’30s. They’re back, too, I see.

coat, perhaps unlined, worn with a cotton or linen button-front shirt.

/

a simple way with color, like when you wear brown shoes with a blue or grey suit.

from Brunello Cucinelli, light-colored pants. You’ll

30

button-down collar.

SPRING

Yes, and they’re really pretty cool. I recommend them, especially if you’re going to the Kentucky Derby.

SUMMER 2009

GAR.mensQ&A.v3.lc.indd 30

4/3/09 7:28:00 PM


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{ the

garmany guide }

Women’s

FASHION

THE LOOK FOR SPRING & SUMMER Pants that let you breathe easy

Flights of fancy

Go nude!

Fluid. Flared. Feminine. When it comes to pants, keep your eye out for

The butterfly is the sign of spring/summer 2009. Not

Double takes. They’re to be

easy fits with lots of swish. (Extreme) case in point? Ralph

only will you find it in prints—see Collette Dinnigan’s

expected when you wrap your-

Lauren’s gold-beaded harem pants. If these

white chiffon confection, aflutter with the delicate

self in the surprisingly sexy skin

aren’t your thing (with fullness around the hips

insect—but look for it in jewelry, on handbags

tones that dominated the spring

and as shoe and hair ornaments. The motif is

runways. A prime example? Val-

1

and banded hems, harem pants work best on the tall and slim), choose pajama pants in sumptuous

2

pure femininity, so choose a winged accent to add in-

3

entino’s

whisper-light

floor-length sheath that

satin (source: Dolce & Gabbana) or relaxed crops

stant softness to a tailored outfit—for example, Giorgio

(Badgley Mischka). For the best silhouette,

Armani pinned a dazzling butterfly brooch to a tuxedo

looks Lady Godiva bare—even

choose styles that fall straight from the

jacket. And if you’re wearing a butterfly print, stick to

though it’s got you covered head

hips and don’t hug the calf or ankle.

delicate accessories. Daring types might want to ex-

to toe. If you prefer, emit a cool,

Pair fuller pants with simple, close-fit-

periment with the bolder, more graphic butterfly prints

calm femininity in Amanda Wake-

ting tops to highlight your waist and

also in the air this season. A stellar example? Etro’s

ley’s sarong-style wrap or Akris’

create an hourglass shape.

butterfly-print cropped pant—an instant attention-getter.

sophisticated plunging V dress.

Borrow from the boys

Or don Alberta Ferretti’s flapperinspired frocks, and give a sly wink

Blazers, cardigans, vests and all manner of menswear are sneaking

with every flutter and flounce.

into women’s departments. Take a look at Ralph Lauren’s sexy bomber

Concerned that flesh tones will

jacket, Malo’s pearl grey and Etro’s sand blazer (complete with rolled-up

wash you out? Choose garments

sleeves) and Charles Nolan’s vest-and-high-heeled-pump ensemble. Don’t worry—

with movement—they’ll keep you

there’s no need to go head-to-toe boardroom. In fact, balancing one or, maximum,

from fading into the background—

two menswear pieces with something ladylike makes the chicest statement. Tip:

and pick one bold-colored accent

If you have a full chest, skip boxy blazers, which will only make you look larger.

to send a subconscious cue to

Instead, opt for a vest—its well-tailored cut and sharp angles define your waist,

onlookers that you are, in fact,

4

helping to sculpt the ideal proportions.

clothed.

Left to right, from top: Dolce & Gabbana, Ralph Lauren, Malo, Akris, Etro, Monique Lhuillier, Collette Dinnigan.

GAR.womens.SS09.V6..lc.indd 34

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The Glass Ceiling

{ the

garmany guide }

Smasher Women’s

HOT tips

FASHION

lous! Look fier ce ’n fabu This spring, designers are wild for tribal

How to capitalize on the season’s trends e Jump into eleganc Akris and Amanda Wakeley joined the list of designers who sent jumpsuits down their runways. And there’s good reason to herald this return: Far from the mechanic-inspired baggy versions of the ’80s, this fresh crop is feminine, versatile and varied, so no matter your shape, you can find a one-piece wonder that looks good—and can suit any occasion. (Pick a jersey jumpsuit with ladylike ruffles, say, and you can wear it to a cocktail party—just pair with fancy heels!) Petite women should try ultra-tailored styles (including those with shorts),

Advice on dressing for success from Upstairs at Garmany

influences. From bold graphics (Roberto

Q What are the must-get eye

Cavalli’s brazen micro-mini) and animal

shadow hues for spring?

prints (Pink Tartan’s leopard silk jersey

Anything in the purple family—from sheer-

polo dress) to obi belts and dashiki-style

est lilac to deepest violet. Worried purple

tops, the trend is hard to miss. Because

won’t complement your eye color? Don’t

tribal styles are awash in warm, earthy colors and often feature natural fibers,

be! Since the newest powders are supersheer, your natural skin tone will show through, making it an automatic match. If

they complement most any complexion

your eyes are blue or green, experiment

and so are ultra-flattering during

with dark plums and smoky amethysts.

the skin-baring season. The only

Have brown or hazel eyes? Try pale lilac

drawback? Pile on too much

to highlight the amber flecks. Still wary?

and you can look costumey. Instead, limit the look to one or two pieces—an oversizeprint shift or tunic with

Apply a shimmery nude shadow over the entire lid and line your eyes with an eggplant shade—it’s a safe way to work the trend without worry.

chunky bangles or a straw

Q I’m looking to add a trench to my

belt, say, or an animal print

wardrobe, but I’m on the curvy side. What features should I look for?

accented with gold hoops. The restraint will pay off

The trench is one of the seasons’s musthave items, and 2009’s style updates are

in a posh look sure to win

perfect for curvy figures. You’ll find more

compliments!

flared or A-line cuts that create a flatter-

—Stefanie Garmany

ing, sleek impression. And super-cinched

while taller ladies can run the gamut

waists highlight an hourglass shape. Note

from flowing one-shoulder styles

that oversize collars are also en vogue. For

to deconstructed rompers. Body-

the best effect, choose a collar with pointy

skimming styles in soft, drapey

rather than rounded edges, and make sure the fabric is sturdy enough to stand up: The

fabrics are best for fuller figures.

severe angles around your face, coupled with the deep V created by popping the col-

yellow Find your perfect

lar, visually slim fullness around the face.

The “it” color this season, it’s found on everything from headbands to heels, in hues from school bus to saffron. (Monique Lhuillier features the shade on several cocktail dresses.) And while you can’t go wrong with a canary tote or marigold belt, wearing a solid yellow garment can be a little riskier. The key is knowing which shade works for you. Dark- and olive-skinned women look stunning in warm

Q I’d like to wear false lashes to some special events this summer, but don’t want to look like a kewpie doll. How can I make them look natural? A good start: buying the right color! Go with light brown if you’re fair; dark brown or

marigold, amber and sunflower; medium-

black if you have medium, olive or dark skin.

skinned women can pull off vivid canary and

Also, because natural lashes are shorter

lemon; and fair ladies look best in buttery

toward the nose and longer at the outer cor-

yellow. For the most current look, pair

ner, you should trim the fake lashes accord-

yellow with white and avoid black, which

ingly—just keep the overall length shorter

will give your outfit a harsh ’80s edge.

rather than longer. Ready to apply? Adhere them as close to the lash line as possible.

Counterclockwise from top left: Etro, Collette

GAR.womens.SS09.V6..lc.indd 36

Dress for the

Dinnigan, Monique Lhuillier, Tory Burch,

A N D A LWAY S R E M E M B E R :

Dolce & Gabbana, Aquatalia, Pink Tartan.

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{ accessories }

Smart set

Casual sophistication and sex appeal characterize men’s accessories this season

Paul Smith presents a peek-a-boo wallet in black calfskin with contrast stitching. So what if you don’t find a wad of cash inside? You’ll still smile every time you open this billfold and catch a glimpse of your secret friend. Enamel cufflinks and silk pocket square by Etro. Tortoise shades by Persol.

GAR.essentials.indd 39

4/3/09 7:31:47 PM


{ accessories }

Lighten up with a Gucci wallet in textured, cream-colored leather and Prada aviators in perfed titanium. Winethemed silk pocket square by Etro. Asymmetrical pyramid cufflinks in silver and cream enamel by Duchamp London.

40

/

SPRING

•

SUMMER 2009

GAR.essentials.indd 40

4/3/09 7:32:15 PM


GimosWomanFPSpr08final.indd 1 033_GAR_SPRING09.indd 145

2/28/08 3:59:31 PM 4/3/09 8:02:59 PM


{ hot stuff }

Lasting Leather

BEST KNOWN for his cashmere sportswear,

Brunello Cucinelli has lately expanded into leather goods. The men’s messenger bag and weekend bag shown here are, like his clothing, designed and crafted in the medieval hamlet of Solomeo, Perugia, which Cucinelli restored and turned into the company town of his dreams. Every product that emerges from his Solomeo workrooms has a timeless elegance, and these classic bags are no exception. You get the sense that either bag will only get better-looking with age—that it will stand up to a century of hard use and end up the prized possession of a lucky grandchild. Inside each bag is a nice surprise: a buttery cashmere lining. Brunello Cucinelli leather bags are available at Garmany.

42

/

SPRING

SUMMER 2009

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{ essentials for men }

Toeing the line Texture, hardware and subtle color contrasts add richness to this season’s brown dress shoes

Perfing and pinking add color contrast to a tan, pebble-

The Caracas dress

grain blucher by

loafer by Gucci in

Ferragamo.

dark olive calfskin has an eye-catching faux tortoise heel.

This Ferragamo dress loafer in mocha pebblegrain leather is a wingtip and monk strap in one.

Gucci’s Kyoto dress loafer has a high vamp and the iconic horsebit hardware. PH O TO GR AP HY BY DAN I E L S P RI N GST O N

44

/

SPRING

SUMMER 2009

GAR.essentials.indd 44

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{ the garmany interview } What clothes do you pack for travel?

GILDO

ZEGNA

I am very practical and I pack light. Our Traveler collection, created for the man on the go, is probably the collection I personally influenced the most—every pocket on every jacket is where I would like it to be. This season we launched the Cool Effect blazer, which offers protection against the heat produced by natural sunlight, by reflecting the sun’s rays. The classic high-performance woollen fabric is given an exclusive wash treatment. This enables the surface of dark fabrics to replicate the properties of white fabrics, reflecting 80% of direct sunlight where they would normally only reflect 20%. Also, my Elements jacket is with me all the time. In the future, what do you imagine the

|

BY FRANCESCA MOISIN

Zegna suit will look like and be made of?

No matter how much innovation we bring to the table, I strongly believe that natural fibers will always be the main source of material used in our clothing. Superfine wool is in our DNA. The look will slowly evolve, and we will be there to lead that evolution. How do you control the quality of the fibers used in your clothes?

We have a long history when it comes AS GARMANY CELEBRATES its 35th anniversary,

Today, Zegna is a global leader in

one of our mainstay brands, Ermenegildo

men’s luxury clothing. The cur-

Zegna, is preparing to celebrate its 100th: It was

rent Ermenegildo Zegna, known

in 1910 that young Ermenegildo Zegna founded

as Gildo, recently sat down with

a textile company in his hometown of Trivero,

GARMANY to discuss his role

Italy. He aimed to create the highest-quality

as fourth-generation leader of

fabrics from the world’s best raw materials.

the brand that bears his name.

to selecting the best raw materials, and over the years we’ve developed close relationships with growers. We also participate in governmentsubsidized awards for the best growers; we give the annual Trofeo awards to the best growers, and in exchange we get their best prod-

Was it inevitable that you would join the

ment, I enjoy the small town

family business?

and Lake Lugano, and on

I was never forced to join, but I did grow

weekends, the mountains

up with it. I have a vivid memory of my

of St. Moritz.

was very natural that I joined the company.

46

standards are always maintained. How would you describe your

grandfather showing us around our mill in Trivero. It may not have been a given, but it

ucts. And we have expert technicians who make sure our superior

You say you travel

personal style of dress?

a lot. How much?

I am classic, but I like to have

I travel practically half of the

some fun with accessories. I

Where do you live?

time, but I love it. We are a global

In Lugano, a quiet city in the Italian part of

company, and there is no better way

TRADITIONAL TAILORING MEETS

Switzerland. I work in Milan and travel a lot

of understanding what is going on than

MODERN STYLE IN ERMENEGILDO

around the world. So when I have a quiet mo-

being there.

ZEGNA’S SARTORIA LINE.

/

SPRING

GAR.zegna.indd 46

SUMMER 2009

4/8/09 10:45:47 AM


Cologne.10-16final

4/3/09

8:26 PM

Page 1

Destilaci贸n Rara

...

Myristica fragrans

Citrus reticulate

Rosmarinus officinalis

Agastache rugos

Thuja plicata

Cinnamomum verum

. . . as distinctive as the man who wears it


{ the garmany interview } RIGHT, SELECTIONS FROM ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA’S MILANO LINE; FAR RIGHT, THE ZEGNA OASIS IN THE BIELLESE ALPS; BELOW, THE COOL EFFECT BLAZER FROM THE SARTORIA COLLECTION; BOTTOM RIGHT, ZEGNA JACQUARD STRIPED TIES, LEATHER BELT WITH PALLADIUM BUCKLE

cultural, social and

from our Montenapoleone

scientific initia-

27 line.

tives around the

books. When

and summer?

world. It was

I’m on a

I suggest our Upper

established in

plane or on

Casual line, which is

2000 is presided

vacation I

the sophisticated and

business?

over by my

have time

chic expression of

She is not directly

sister Anna.

to catch up

Ermenegildo Zegna

on my read-

leisure wear. This season

business, but

What’s the

ing without

the wardrobe essentials

having been

best part

interruption,

are lightweight, decon-

by my side for

about what you

over 25 years,

Is your wife, Elena, involved in the family

I read a lot, so I like to bring

involved in the

so I try to take

structed blazers in cotton

do?

advantage of

or a cashmere-silk blend

The best part is

those moments.

offered in a soft color pal-

bigger role than you

also my biggest

ette of greys and beiges. What music are

responsibility: I run a company that has my

you listening to

If you weren’t CEO

You have been called

name on the door.

these days?

of Ermenegildo Zegna,

an environmentalist.

I’m responsible for

I like music as a

what would you

How so?

the more than 7,000

background sound,

be doing?

My ancestors were

people working for us.

environmentally conscious

This is both challenging

to classical and lounge

dreams. This is who I am

long before it was fashion-

and very rewarding.

music.

and what I do, and I’m

so I listen mostly

they planted half a million

What are some of your

What’s your

trees on the hills behind

favorite places in the

favorite film?

the factory. This was the

world, and why do you

La Dolce Vita, the

seed that eventually led

like them?

quintessential portrait

us to establish the Oasi

I love skiing and playing

of Italy.

Zegna [Zegna Oasis],

golf, so I visit the Alps in

a conservation area in

the winter and go to my

How would you

the Biellese Alps that

country house on the lake

describe your

covers about 100 square

in the summer. I also love

customer—the

kilometers. It incorporates

big cities, and New York

“Zegna man”?

the Bielmonte Ski Resort,

holds a special place in

There is not one

my heart. It has a unique

ideal man, but

without damaging the

energy, and I feel at home

common threads

natural environment.

whenever I’m there.

are confidence,

which was constructed

personality, suc-

Today we also have the

SPRING

GAR.zegna.indd 48

I don’t have any unfulfilled

very happy in my shoes.

able. In the early 1920s

/

men wear this spring

she plays a much might imagine!

48

What should American

particularly like knit ties

Fondazione Zegna, which

What can’t you leave

cess and a great

promotes environmental,

home without?

sense of style.

SUMMER 2009

4/6/09 5:10:42 PM


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{ sportswear }

Get out!

... and hit the beach with Gucci

Weekend by Gucci: Printed with scenes inspired by Rio de Janeiro, this sport shirt exudes tropical hip. A striped, woven belt boasts a subtle sheen, leather trim and sturdy pewter buckle. Suede sneakers have perfed Gucci logo and seriously patterned laces. Pack it all in a men’s weekend bag crafted of virtually indestructible fabric with tan harness leather trim. 50

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{ sportswear }

Gucci goes black-and-white: The men’s weekend bag has a ghostly logo pattern on white leather with black trim. For undeniable star power, choose the white leather boat shoe or white leather loafer with tiny star cutouts. A red, white & blue sport shirt has mesmerizing graduated stripes. And for those with the confidence to sport the St. Tropez look, Gucci offers a black swimsuit with metal buckle—a 21st century take on classic swimsuits past.

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{ essentials for women }

Color counts PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL SPRINGSTON

Lift your spirits and make an impression with coordinated warm-weather shoes and accessories Furla ostrich skin handbag in a pleasing purple. Tory Burch green lacquered wedge with navy patent strap and brass screw-head detail. Malo silk print scarf with hand-rolled edge. Schumacher suede belt with green enamel buckle and green edge detail. SPRING

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{ essentials for women }

Tory Burch canvas and burlap tote in flaming warm weather colors. Tory Burch wedge with high cork heel and gold insole. Malo silk print scarf. Prada sunglasses.

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So your children can have more than just stories. Hamilton creates heirlooms treasured by countless generations.

From Hamilton’s Heritage Collection. Original and vintage inspired jewelry in 18k white gold with diamonds and gemstones.

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Marc Jacobs handbag. Bettye Muller high-heel dress sandal in black patent. Malo silk print scarf. Schumacher’s Miss Lily necklace.

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{ essentials for women }

Tory Burch East West Gareth tote in yellow pebble-grained leather. Dolce & Gabanna peep-toe shoe with a high, sculptural resin heel in Bordeaux patent leather. Etro silk print scarf. Tory Burch resin bar clutch in faux tortoise. Natural amethyst and sterling bracelet.

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{ essentials for women }

Etro patent leather beach bag. Aquatalia flat shoe in linen and patent leather. Malo ultra-soft stole in cashmere and silk. Dolce & Gabbana chestnut leather clutch. Roberto Cavalli bracelet.

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“Simple is best” might have been Cary Grant’s motto for dressing well. In this 1955 still from To Catch a Thief, he looks great in unembellished black tie. Opposite, Grant puts his Kilgour suit to the test in North by Northwest.

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{ icon }

CARY GRANT Move over, David Beckham (number 2). Dream on, Johnny

tivity: His mother made him his first pair of long trousers, but

Depp (number 3). None other than Cary Grant was crowned

he felt they “didn’t seem to fit or appear as well, nor was the

greatest-ever male style icon in a recent poll conducted by

flannel of the same quality, as the shop-bought, ready-made

London tie and scarf maker Peckham Rye. What’s more,

versions of white flannels I saw on other boys,” Grant later

the classic Hollywood leading man showed other latter-day

recalled. “I was crestfallen. … I wonder if the appearance of

stars, such as Brad Pitt (number 6) and Daniel Craig (number

my name on so many best-dressed lists is a consequence

12), the door!

of the boyish shame from wearing those homemade flannel

It’s not the first time Grant has risen above the rest: Last

trousers.”

April, GQ named North by Northwest the top film to have in-

Born, perhaps, with an innate sense of style, Grant

fluenced male fashion over the last 50 years. And make no

grew to embody effortless elegance, whether dressed as a

mistake, without Grant’s

debonair cat burglar in To

filling out the most famous

Catch a Thief (that red silk

suit in the history of cin-

scarf? Genius!) or as the

ema, well, one wonders.

dashing object of affection

Indeed, watching the trim,

of a much younger Audrey

6’2”,

Grant

Hepburn in Charade. So

dodge a crop duster—all

55-year-old

what was his style secret?

the while looking crisp,

Martin Greenfield, Grant’s

clean and controlled in his

tailor, chalked it up to mini-

mid-gray suit (a 14-ounce,

malism. “Grant wore very

fully lined, ventless three-

simple

button by Savile Row tai-

seldom if ever saw him in a

lor Kilgour)—has inspired

loud pattern or color.”

things.

You

very

plenty of copycats. No less

In all fairness, perhaps

a talent than Giorgio Ar-

a modicum of credit belongs

mani has said that his own

to the nurture side of the

“overall sense of style as a

equation. After all, Grant

designer” was influenced

himself remarked, “My fa-

by

taste-making

ther used to say, ‘Let them

tour de force in the Hitch-

see you and not the suit.

cock thriller.

That

Grant’s

should

be

second-

Even as a lad in Bris-

ary.’” For sure, few would

England,

he

argue that the avatar of sar-

was known as Archibald

torial style—both on screen

Alexander

and on the street, then and

tol,

where

Leach,

Grant

displayed a sartorial sensi-

now—is Cary Grant.

Swagger, simplicity and a perfect fi t were among Grant’s sartorial secrets.

SPRING

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Rocket-like, wide and low to the ground, the fierce R8 from Audi may be the perfect coupe for ripping up your favorite ribbon of road.

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AUDACITY

PAYS OFF Audi took a chance with the R8, a MID-ENGINE EXOTIC that goes head to head with revered sports cars and COMES OUT A WINNER |

GAR.auto.final.sv.indd 71

BY MARIA LISSANDRELLO

4/3/09 7:39:04 PM


Looking more Italian than German, the Audi R8 shares its space frame with a cousin, the Lamborghini Gallardo. The power plant, below left, is always on view through a transparent cover (this photo shows the optional V10 engine).

IT TAKES NERVES OF STEEL to debut a six-figure sports car. One that

R8 doesn’t have to beg for attention; it earns it. And with few on

nobody’s waiting for. One that’s set to compete against the beloved

the road (consider that Porsche sells a thousand 911s every month,

45-year-old Porsche 911, the BMW M6 and the Aston Martin Van-

while Audi figures to sell 300 to 400 R8s in a whole year), it owns the

tage. Yet in its debut year, the audacious Audi R8 was crowned

mark of exclusivity. Treat yourself to this $114,000 coupe, and odds

a supercar—Automobile magazine named it 2008 Automobile of

are you’ll be the only one in your zip code zipping around in it.

the Year; it trounced the Ferrari F430 to take 2008 MSN Car of the

Why so few? This is no assembly-line baby. Its 5,000 bits and

Year and was hailed as World Performance Car of the Year at the

pieces are hand-assembled by 70 specialists; all that loving care

2008 World Car of the Year awards. And those are just a few of the

yields just 15 cars a day. And before any one of them gets the Audi

many accolades.

stamp of approval, it must undergo a unique test: Some 95 lasers

What makes this road car so outstanding? Its aggressive design, for one. Rocket-like and low to the ground, wider than average, with

inspect the car in 5 seconds, in a sort of CT scan that ensures the two-seater is to spec.

its engine (mounted behind the driver and ahead of the rear wheels)

That means guaranteeing the aluminum space frame it shares

visible through a transparent cover that lights up in the dark, the

with its pricier ($70K-plus pricier) cousin, the Lamborghini Gallardo, is perfect; its retractable rear spoiler retracts, its LED brake lights

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M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O writes frequently about automobiles, food and

activate; its “shift-by-wire” technology is positioned to deliver ultra-

travel. She is also the librettist for opera composer Christof Bergman.

fast gear shifting and, well, you get the idea.

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But it’s when you put this machine to the test—slipping into the

where you tell it; and when you’re ready to stop, it stops.

cocoon-like cockpit (sleek rotary controls set against a piano black

Ready for curves? Take them with confidence; after all, the R8

console curve around the driver), settling into your cushy Alcanta-

is programmed to detect driving situations in seconds and deliver the

ra/leather bucket seat, and even finding some room to stretch your legs—that the real fun begins. Find a deserted straightaway and see if you can’t beat the 0-60 mph-in-4.5seconds promise. Blast the R8 to its 187 mph max and enjoy the shock and awe of feeling totally in control—the electro-

appropriate damping forces. And while

THE AUDI R8 AT A GLANCE BASE PRICE: $114,500 STANDARD ENGINE:

| 4.2-LITER, V-8 | 420 HP @ 7,800 RPM | 317 LBS-FT TORQUE | 6-SPEED MANUAL/6-SPEED R-TRONIC SINGLE-CLUTCH SEMI-AUTOMATIC GAS MILEAGE: 13 MPG CITY / 20 MPG HWY STANDARD FEATURES:

| BOSCH ESP 8.0 ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAMME

its all-wheel drive and unequal tire sizes keep it solidly in contact with the surface, you’ll still thrill to the energy, power and elasticity that make the R8 a stealth speedster. But what if you’re just tooling around town? Go for it. The R8 can be as sedate

magnetic springs and dampers guarantee

| BANG & OLUFSEN SOUND SYSTEM

as the A6, purring politely, slinking along

a smooth, stable ride, rounding off any

| ACOUSTIC PARKING SYSTEM WITH REAR-VIEW CAMERA

subtly—if that’s what you ask of it. This

harsh edges without making you feel as

| 19-INCH DIAMETER ALLOY WHEELS

dynamic coupe is nothing if not versatile,

if you’ve lost touch with the road; the

CLOSEST COMPETITORS: PORSCHE 911 CARRERA 4S, BMW M6,

an easygoing two-seater dying to be

steering is so precise the R8 goes only

ASTON MARTIN V8 VANTAGE

taken for a ride. SPRING

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You’ve entered your inner sanctum of personal style ...

and so to

BED THE PART OF YOUR DAY

spent unclothed (or wearing pajamas) may provide an excuse to look less than your best. But you at least deserve to lie down in a well-dressed crib. These perfectly tailored bedrooms will set you dreaming.

P H O T O G R A P H Y BY T I M S T R E E T- P O R T E R

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This page: Antique paisley fabrics appear on the barley-twist bed, the Venetian gondola chair and everywhere else in this sunny, antique-filled bedroom by Martyn Lawrence-Bullard.

Opposite: Taking advantage of high ceilings, designer Miles Redd installed a towering, mirrored four-poster in his own master bedroom. In a witty turn, the silk upholstery on the headboard is button-tufted to look like mattress ticking.

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This page: Designer Nate Berkus kept this masculine bedroom muted and dark. Looking like a giant club chair, the wingback headboard is upholstered in brown leather. Plantation shutters topped by panel curtains ensure an utter blackout at night.

Opposite: Antique textiles drape the bed and encase an ample supply of pillows in the bedroom of Fritz and Dana Rohn. The effect is to make the bed (with beckoning teapot) an intimate living space.

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This page: As with clothing, a combination of strong patterns in like colors can have a pleasing effect. Designer Lynn von Kersting pulls out the stops in this sumptuous bed chamber, where the count of fabric patterns runs at least to 10.

Opposite: Almost every surface in Muriel and Nuno Brandolini’s bedroom is covered in fabric. That includes the bed itself, upholstered in an eighteenth-century French textile. Eclectic artwork above the bed includes a small painting by Philip Taaffe.

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Franz Ferdinand: Harlem, NYC Photographed by Danny Clinch, 2009

j o h nva r va t o s . c o m

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The Patek Philippe Ref. 5207 is a complicated masterpiece with an understated look. This new timepiece features a minute repeater (known as the queen of complications), a tourbillon, an instantaneous perpetual calendar (212 components are required to switch all calendar displays simultaneously at midnight), a moon phase display and five additional display apertures—all contained in a sleek Calatrava-style case, whose platinum flanks are hand-engraved.

Tradition and innovation meet in the elegant watches of Patek Philippe

Heirloom Apparent |

BY CAROLINE GOYETTE

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When Queen Victoria attended the Great Exhibition, a celebration

modern building with state-of-the-art workshops. More than 70 patents

of technological marvels held in London in 1851, she was struck by a

boast of inventions that have dazzled and inspired the horologic commu-

wondrous pocket watch. Remarkable not only for its lovely detail, the

nity for the last century and a half. Yet Patek’s dynamic vision is matched

timepiece represented a significant horologic advance. Unlike other mod-

by a devotion to craftsmanship that represents the very best of Swiss

els of the day, the watch was “keyless,” requiring no separate (and eas-

watchmaking. It’s this marriage of innovation and tradition that produces

ily misplaced) component for winding and setting. The Queen promptly

timepieces collectors covet and families pass down through generations.

acquired the watch, the creation of a small Geneva-based manufacturer who would soon become world-renowned: Patek Philippe. While numerous royals, popes and dignitaries have since joined

The company was founded in 1839 by Antoine Norbert de Patek and François Czapek, Polish refugees who fled their country after a failed uprising against the Russian Empire. When the men eventually parted ways, Patek

the ranks of those who favor Patek, the company’s commitment to in-

joined forces with the French watchmaker Adrien Philippe, whose name

novation remains unchanged from its early days. Nestled just outside of

graces the brand we now recognize. Today, the company is rare among Ge-

Geneva at Plan-les-Ouates, Patek’s headquarters is housed in a strikingly

nevan watch manufacturers in that it remains independent and family-owned. Purchased by the Stern brothers in 1932, it is now led by third- and fourth-

Led by the father-son team of Philippe and Thierry Stern (above), Patek Philippe

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generation family members, Philippe Stern and his son, Thierry.

is the last private, independent Genevan watch manufacturer. The Gondolo watch

The French term bienfacture (essentially, “to make well”) encapsu-

at upper right, new for 2008, exemplifies the low-key elegance of the brand. But

lates the painstaking care with which Patek produces its watches. Most

Patek has always done bravura custom designs as well, such as the enameled

models are made in small quantities and each is treated as an individual

and diamond-encrusted pocket watch case shown at bottom.

work of art. The company’s 200 skilled watchmakers finish each time-

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The Grand Reverso 101 is set with nearly 4 carats of F-G color, top-quality diamonds.

piece by hand, tending with great patience to the tiniest of details. In-

among the most exciting elements for collectors are a watch’s “complica-

deed, mechanical components not even visible to the owner are polished

tions.” The term refers to functions beyond standard time display such as

and embellished with the same impeccable aesthetic concern applied to

a perpetual calendar with moon phases, multiple time zones, or small and

the watch’s exterior. The end result is an understated and elegant time-

grand strikes. In this area, Patek Philippe excels, stunning aficionados with

piece whose beauty appeals to the most sophisticated tastes.

exceptional timepieces ranging from the Calibre 89 (nine years in the making,

When it comes to quality control, Patek maintains the most strin-

it boasts 33 complications, including a leap year indicator and thermometer)

gent standards of perfectionism. While many manufacturers purchase

to the millennial Star Caliber 2000 (its creation led to six newly filed patents

watch components from other makers, speeding up the process but

for innovations, among them a sonorous Westminster chime). This year,

relinquishing a measure of control, Patek holds to the value of slow

the debut of the complicated World Time watch delighted collectors for its

craftsmanship. The company produces all watch movements, cases

permanent display of all 24 time zones and its coveted cloisonné enamel dial.

and bracelets on site in order to oversee every detail of their product’s

While the launch of a new design sends a thrill through the horolog-

creation. More than 1,200 individual steps go into producing a single watch, a process that can take up to two years for a complicated time-

Patek Philippe Ref. 5180/1 (top right) is a tour de force of skeletonization.

piece. Meanwhile, each watch is subjected to 600 hours of testing during

The plates, bridges and cocks of the ultra-thin, self-winding movement have been

manufacturing and up to a month of additional observation afterwards. It

cut back aggressively, pushing structural and functional limits. Each flat piece

is only after these strenuous measures are completed that the company

is elaborately engraved, producing a delicate, filigreed effect. At top left, the

will give the watch its distinguished name.

assembled movement of Ref. 5207 reveals the tourbillon and hallmark Calatrava

There is much to be admired in such fine mechanical timepieces, but

cross. At bottom left, a cloisonné enamel dial is constructed by hand.

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ic world, a brand’s enduring collection is a true

A contemporary interpretation of the Art Deco

testament to its watchmakers’ skills. Among

movement, the Gondolo collection features

Patek’s iconic models is the Calatrava, a

attractive rectangular shapes; a variation of this

classic round wristwatch first introduced

model, the women’s “Twenty-4,” is a refined,

in 1932. Reflecting the tenets of Bauhaus

diamond-set wristwatch for all occasions.

design, the Calatrava emphasizes clean lines, functionality and a subtle elegance that endures—at the same time it defies—passing fads. The Golden Ellipse is one of the most instantly iden-

In keeping with the meticulous care shown each watch in the manufacturing process, Patek Philippe maintains a lifelong interest in its timepieces. Since the company’s founding in 1839, it has kept archival

tifiable Patek Philippe designs, with a fluid elliptical shape

records for every watch produced, a rare resource for owners.

based on the architectural principle of “divine” proportions.

Likewise, the company is unique in stocking parts from the earliest days of manufacturing, so they may continue to service

At top left, a Patek Philippe artist creates an enameled dial with the

their creations as the years pass. This is one more way Patek

aid of a microscope. At right, the Aquanaut Luce Ref. 5069 haute joail-

ensures its product may be passed on, an elegant heirloom of

lerie model combines the rugged, contemporary styling of Patek’s iconic

great personal significance, from mother to daughter, father to son.

Aquanaut with a pavé setting of 387 flawless Top Wesselton round diamonds. Seen

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at bottom is the Star Caliber 2000, a pocket watch created to mark the millennium,

C A R O L I N E G O Y E T T E specializes in writing about design and the arts.

comprising an astounding 21 complications with six patented inventions.

She lives in New Orleans.

SPRING

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A Rolling

Great food, single malts and bonhomie prove to be just the ticket aboard the most luxurious of touring trains

HIGHLAND |

GAR.scotsman.final.2sv.indd 86

BY I A N K E O W N

FLING

4/3/09 7:47:22 PM


ON MY FIRST NIGHT aboard The Royal Scotsman out of Edinburgh, I was

edging along its burnished, wood-paneled corridors when a soignée, tanned and slightly exotic lady stepped from her cabin and asked if I would be so kind as to help her open her window. Uh-huh. In situations like this the mind instantly downloads fictional hanky-panky (think Poirot, think 007) on the Orient-Express or the Trans-Siberian Express. But this being Inverness rather than Istanbul, it turned out that all the lady expected of me was a quick tug to part a pair of ventilation windows. Just as well. I was traveling with my wife and teenage daughter, showing off the beauty and history of my homeland and riding one of the world’s most sumptuous touring trains from Edinburgh through heathered glens and craggy peaks on the way to Dornoch in the north, Kyle of Lochalsh and Achnashellach in the west, through Whisky Country back to Edinburgh. For someone who grew up in Scotland, as I did, riding a train for four full days is somehow wacky: Hell, I could drive this route in a day-and-a-half. But then I’d have to cope with all that zooming traffic, seeing little but the truck in front, while our train, on the other hand, tootled along at a leisurely 50 mph, and I could stand on the open observation deck and watch the moors and lochs unfurl. For overseas visitors, of course, The Royal Scotsman is a godsend, eliminating the stress of driving on the left, of trying to remember who gets priority in roundabouts, of facing down flocks of sheep on one-lane byways. As one American passenger put

IMAGES COURTESY OF ORIENT EXPRESS

it: “When I saw the opportunity to tour Scotland by train, it seemed so convenient I leaped at the chance.” The Royal Scotsman has been around since 1990, but it was acquired in 2007 by Venice Simplon Orient-Express, which has pumped in additional funds for extra perks like bathrobes and slippers for guests, tailored uniforms for the staff of 16 and a connoisseur’s collection of

The Royal Scotsman glides along the shore of Loch Carron in the west Highlands (left), midway through its circuit. The journey begins on Platform 10 of Waverly Station in Edinburgh (above), where a piper in full regalia welcomes guests aboard the train. SPRING

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35 single malts in the bar. The train consists of nine carriages—five

ing sightseeing excursions aboard The Royal Scotsman’s own motor

State Cars (or sleeping cars), two for dining, an Observation Car and a

coach, sampling that rich tapestry of castles and gardens, monuments

crew car—eight of them meticulously refurbished with burled walnut

and mesmerizing landscapes; in the evening we socialized, giving the

and gleaming mahogany, marquetry panels and etched glass thistles.

four days the air of an exclusive Edwardian house party on wheels.

Twin cabins measure 85 square feet and resemble those on a luxury

Our fellow passengers (26 in all, 10 short of maximum capacity) were

yacht with their finely crafted woods and dusky red plaids; each is

predominantly American, including two families and two grandmothers

outfitted with twin beds, a desk and a small closet (empty suitcases

hosting their grandchildren on graduation trips. This particular departure

are stowed in the luggage car). Climate control—overhead ventilation

was a charter, organized by Manhattan-based Academic Arrangements

outlets, ceiling fans and a small ventilation panel—is adequate in most

Abroad on behalf of the Harvard Alumni Association, the National Trust

circumstances (this is, after all, Scotland, not the Mediterranean); but

for Historic Preservation and the Royal Oak Foundation (but open to

since we had four days of untypical temperatures in the high 70s,

everyone). “With alumni and people interested in preservation,” said

there were times when air conditioning would have been welcome,

one passenger, “they’re a very congenial group.”

hence the request to open the lady’s window.

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Our rolling house party filled four days with majestic lived-in cas-

Two features distinguish The Royal Scotsman from most other

tles (Dunrobin, Cawdor and Glamis), an after-hours tour of Strathisla

touring trains: Every cabin comes with its own toilet—24 square feet

Distillery with a whisky tasting and ceilidh (the traditional Gaelic get-

of ingenious design with space for a shower and six fluffy towels; and

together), a seal-watching cruise at Plockton, a demonstration of

the train “stables” overnight so that it is stationary while the guests

falconry at the home of the Earl of Sutherland and a guided tour

sleep (“stable” meaning, in this case, pulling into a quiet siding beside

of the most dolorous spot in Scotland, the battlefield at Culloden.

a country station). It’s a perfect game plan. By day, we enjoyed reward-

Some guests managed to squeeze in impromptu side trips—an early

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The outer railway loop of the map (opposite) shows the complete itinerary for The Royal Scotsman’s four-day “Edwardian house party on wheels.” Each passenger cabin (top) cradles guests in the burled and burnished comfort of a bygone era. At left, Plop the barn owl buzzes spectators during a falconry demonstration at the Earl of Sutherland’s place, a sidetrip of the journey.

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PREVIEWS

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91

Looking like the Hogwarts Express from a Harry Potter movie (opposite), The Royal Scotsman snakes through Highland scenery. At Glamis Castle (above), where the late Queen Mother spent her youth, the crypt evokes a slightly creepy men’s club, with its antelope heads and suits of armor. Another stop is Cawdor Castle (right), where 18 hours of sunshine per midsummer day make for lush gardens.

morning jog across the bridge to the Isle of Skye or a round of golf on a classic Scottish course. No matter how rewarding or how much fun we had during the tours, we were also delighted to return to our luxury cocoon for lunch or dinner. The Royal Scotsman’s two Dining Cars bring to life the luxury trains we’ve all seen in movies and documentaries—brocade fabrics and tie-back curtains, wall sconces casting a glow on tables set with Royal Worcester china and Dartington glassware. But what made lunch and dinner such special occasions was the high caliber of the cuisine, a treat none of us had expected on a train, especially since several times a day we had to pass the implausibly tiny galley. It measured, according to the chef, just “eight steps from wall to wall,” yet our two maestros, Iain Murray and Paul Middleton, performed miracles using local produce wherever possible—Buccleuch beef, organic salmon from Speyside and plump langoustines and scallops bought direct from the fishing boats when we stabled in Kyle of Lochalsh. In one unfortunate respect The Royal Scotsman belies its heritage—it’s not at all thrifty (see details at right). But my fellow passengers seemed to find the trip worthwhile because of its uniqueness: the time warp of a luxury rail excursion, the company of well-traveled companions, the refined cuisine and private estate service, the sheer convenience of seeing so much with so little effort. And you can’t sip and savor 35 single malts when you’re driving.

RESOURCES FOR PLANNING YOUR TRIP Excursions on The Royal Scotsman begin at $1,635 per day per person, including meals and sightseeing; one-day and two-day tours are also available.

I A N K E O W N , author of Caribbean Hideaways (Frommer) and other books,

www.royalscotsman.com, 800-524-2420

has been writing about luxury travel for more than 30 years.

www.arrangementsabroad.com, 800-221-1944 SPRING

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Fernanda looks sweet in a Malo top and pants. Croc cuff by Suzie Roher. Handbag by Roberto Cavalli. Sandor wears a navy pinstripe suit and paisley shirt, both by Etro. Belt by Gucci. Pocket square by Brunello Cucinelli.

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•

WINTER 2008

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Lightweight fabrics and saturated colors make these great new looks easy to wear.

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Opposite, Julie means business in an Akris jacket and top. Cropped pant by Schumacher. Handbag by Gucci.

This page, Sandor’s suit, shirt, tie and pocket square are all by Isaia.

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Ready for the weekend, Julie wears an Akris blazer and top, Charles Nolan pants and Malo scarf. Sunglasses by Dolce & Gabbana. Eric’s print shirt, pants, belt, leather jacket and weekend bag are all by Gucci. Sunglasses by Persol.

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Opposite, sporting the perfect look for a guy with salt-andpepper hair, Sandor wears a light grey striped suit, pink woven tie, striped pink shirt and pocket square, all by Canali.

This page, Fernanda is ready to step out in a gorgeous evening dress and gold bangles by Roberto Cavalli. Black clutch by Cole Haan.

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Julie looks winsome in a deep blue top by Valentino and Ralph Lauren linen pants. Handbag by Tory Burch. Eric wears a cotton sportcoat, shirt, cardigan and pants, all by Paul Smith.

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Opposite, Sandor relaxes in a plaid woven shirt and leather jacket by John Varvatos. Deep indigo jeans by Earnest Sewn. Sneakers by John Varvatos for Converse.

This page, Fernanda looks hip in a silk dress by Collette Dinnigan and a patent leather belt by Suzie Roher. Necklace by Schumacher.

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Opposite, plaid is among the patterns of choice for sportcoats this season. Eric’s is by Ermenegildo Zegna, as are his shirt, tie and pocket square. Note the perfect pattern match on the curving breast pocket and the pick-stitch detail on all seams—two Zegna hallmarks.

This page, Fernanda’s shimmering woven dress by Ralph Lauren is complemented by a Suzie Roher belt, Dolce & Gabbana shoes and Roberto Cavalli handbag.

Stylist: Chad Kincaid Hair by Elena Lyakir Makeup by Rob Harmon

All clothing, footwear, handbags, jewelry and sunglasses available at Garmany.

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{ the sporting life }

B Y PA U L R O G E R S P H O T O G RA P H Y BY W O O D S A B O L D

OLD MACDONALD:

golf’s new challenge WHEN BANDON DUNES, a spectacular links on the southern coast of

Notwithstanding such relative austerity—or perhaps because of

Oregon, opened a decade ago, the course bore almost no relation to

it—Bandon Dunes Golf Resort proved a huge success, and deservedly

the manicured quality of American resort-style golf. Designed by a

so. Aficionados compared it favorably to Pebble Beach and the time-

Scotsman named David MacLay Kidd, the layout looked almost pri-

less links of the British Isles. Mike Keiser, the recycled greeting cards

mordial, with rumpled fairways that unfurled through gorse-covered

magnate who founded the resort, followed up with two more eigh-

dunes. Kidd made the playing corridors wide enough to accommodate

teens on the property: Pacific Dunes, an even more scenic seaside

the stiff winds off the ocean, but the concessions ended there. The

course created by Tom Doak and completed in 2001; and the inland

bunkers were deep (some of them forcing players to hit out sideways),

Bandon Trails, a Bill Coore/Ben Crenshaw design that debuted four

the turf unsparingly firm. To play the course you had to walk—there

years later. All three rank among the highest-regarded public courses

were caddies but no carts, a staple of high-end public golf across the

in the nation.

country. Even the accommodations at Bandon’s original lodge evoked rustic understatement.

Now comes yet another act. Keiser has rehired Doak and his design associate, Jim Urbina, to conceive a fourth course at Bandon, this one an homage to the golden-age course designer Charles Blair Mac-

108

It could just as well be Scotland: This view of Old Macdonald Hole #7 in Bandon,

donald. The layout—featuring astoundingly broad fairways and mas-

Oregon, shows the gorgeous seaside setting and rustic links architecture for

sive, intricately contoured greens—is called Old Macdonald. Ten holes

which this new “old” course will surely become famous.

have been finished, and preview rounds will be available to the public

/

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beginning April 1; the entire course is to open in June 2010. Macdonald is considered the father of American “golf architec-

the piece of property was too interesting to reduce the assignment to that.”

ture” (in fact, he coined the term). Raised in Chicago by his Scottish

They’ve come up, for the most part, with their own takes on clas-

father and Canadian mother, he attended the University of St. Andrews

sic holes from the U.K. as Macdonald might have fashioned them in

in Scotland, where he learned the game on the storied Old Course.

Bandon, given the character of the land and the prevailing wind. The

He went on to help found the United States Golf Association, and to

par-five sixth, for example, has a Hell Bunker evocative of the fearsome

win the country’s first national amateur championship, in 1895. But

crater found on the fourteenth at St. Andrews. There’s also a Road

it’s Macdonald’s design work for which he is known. In a quest to

Hole inspired by St. Andrews’ famous seventeenth.

establish the game in America, he sought to build idealized versions

Another challenge was to design Old Macdonald in such a way that

of the world’s finest golf holes, most of them from British links. His

it would stand out from Bandon’s existing courses. The most obvious

most celebrated work includes the National Golf Links of America, in

departure is in the size of the putting surfaces. They’re considerably

Southampton, N.Y., Chicago Golf Club, Bermuda’s Mid Ocean Club and

larger than not only those of Bandon Dunes, Pacific Dunes and Bandon

the course at Yale University.

Trails but also, according to Doak, any modern-day course he’s seen in

In sketching out Old Macdonald, Doak and Urbina tried to place

some time. Also, there is less gorse in play, making it harder to lose a

themselves inside the architect’s head circa 1900, after he’d traveled

ball, and there are a couple of “unabashedly blind shots.” And although

and played extensively overseas. “We wanted the course to honor

the resort’s first three layouts promote the Scottish “bump-and-run”

Macdonald’s ideas, but we didn’t just want to build replicas of his fa-

game—in which shots are played strategically under the wind—Doak

mous holes,” says Doak. “That would have been boring to us, and

says Old Macdonald will encourage it even more. Some downwind holes have greens that slope from front to back, rendering an aerial

Now that’s a green: Above, it’s hard to tell where the fairway ends and the massive, contoured green begins on Old Macdonald Hole #14.

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approach far riskier than one that scuttles along the ground. Doak estimates that at most only one in five golfers who play Old

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Old Macdonald, the

The new clubhouse at Pacific Dunes

course, is an homage to

shines like a beacon in the gloaming.

Charles Blair Macdonald, the father of American golf architecture.

Ken Nice, resort superintendent, and Jim Urbina, architect (with Tom Doak) of Old Macdonald, show the scale of misery in Hell Bunker on Old Macdonald Hole #6. This hole is dubbed “Long,” and a spell in Hell can make it feel even longer.

Macdonald will have heard of the man who inspired it. Most visitors to

Bandon, unlike with so many other American golf resorts, it is almost

Bandon Dunes come from the West Coast, and the majority of Macdon-

sacrilege to talk about the off-course amenities. A mantra of Keiser’s

ald’s courses are private clubs in the East. The resort plans to produce a

from the beginning still holds: It’s all about the golf.

booklet explaining the ideas behind each hole. George Bahto, a Macdonald biographer who is consulting on the course design, predicts the experience of playing Old Macdonald will pique golfers’ interest in course architecture. “A lot of them will like it and they won’t know why,” Bahto says. “They’re going to want to know what Macdonald was all about.” Just as the golf at Bandon Dunes has expanded in the ten years

BANDON DUNES GOLF RESORT 57744 Round Lake Drive, Bandon, Oregon. Contact: 888-345-6008, bandondunesgolf.com.

PLAYING B a n d o n D u n e s | Architect: David McLay Kidd, 1999. Yardage: 6,732. Par: 72. Slope: 143.

since the resort opened, so, too, have the accommodations. The shin-

B a n d o n Tr a i l s | Architects: Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw, 2005. Yardage: 6,765. Par: 71.

gled two-story lodge remains a popular option (singles during the peak

Slope: 132.

season, May through October, from $200; four-bedroom suites, from

P a c i f i c D u n e s | Architect: Tom Doak, 2001. Yardage: 6,633. Par: 71. Slope: 129.

$1,300), but guests can now also choose from four other options. The

Greens Fees on all three courses: $220 during peak season (May through October).

most lavish are cottages for foursomes at the Grove ($1,800): they

Replay rate: $110.

offer four bedrooms, each with a private bath, plus a parlor with a fire-

Coming Soon:

place, and a patio. There’s also a selection of restaurants and bars, not

O l d M a c d o n a l d | Architects: Tom Doak and Jim Urbina. Yardage, Par, Slope: TBD.

to mention a fitness center where after walking eighteen or thirty-six

Ten-hole preview rounds beginning April 1, 2009; entire course to open June 2010.

in the elements you can soak in a Jacuzzi or get a massage. But with GETTING THERE P A U L R O G E R S , a contributing editor at Travel + Leisure Golf, has written

Commercial flights are available from Portland, Ore., and San Francisco to Southwest Oregon

extensively about the game.

Regional Airport, 25 miles from Bandon. The resort is a five-hour drive from Portland.

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{ malt }

|

BY M A R K D O W D E N

Haiku in a bottle Yamazaki 18-year-old is a COMPLEX WHISKY from Japan that will WOW ANY SCOTCH LOVER Most details of the film Lost in Translation are lost

boutique owner given to bellowing at customers, “If

in my memory, obscured by the lovely Scarlett

it’s not Scottish, it’s crap!”

Johannson and her powerful chemistry with an

Not so. Japan makes world-class whisky,

aging Bill Murray. But I do remember why Murray’s

whose only fundamental difference from Scotch is

character, a burned-out actor, found himself in

that it is not distilled and aged in Scotland.

Tokyo: He was filming a whisky commercial in

The man who translated the distiller’s craft

which he intoned, “For relaxing times, make it

from Caledonia to Asia was Masataka Taketsuru. As

Suntory time.”

a chemistry student at the University of Glasgow in

The Japanese love whisky, and Suntory is the

1918, he became so fascinated by whisky that he

country’s leading producer. The beverage giant

roved from distillery to distillery, offering to serve

has been distilling malted barley for nearly

as an apprentice. Distillers were receptive, and

a century, although most Westerners

Taketsuru spent several happy years learning, imbibing and taking copious notes. In 1921 he returned

would be appalled at the very concept.

to Japan with a crammed notebook and a Scottish

I’m reminded of a line by another

wife. Soon Taketsuru crossed paths with Shinjiro

Saturday Night Live alumnus, Mike

Torii, founder of Suntory, and the two set out to

Myers, who played an irascible Scots

make the true usquebaugh.

CONTINUED...

p ap

or

o

P

A

N

•S

don’t know it and many Scotch drinkers

J

A

S E

Ya m

aza

ers have never heard of. Full-bodied and delicious,

N

O

R

Akita

J A PA N

ki D istille

Hiroshim

Yamazaki is the world-class whisky most Western-

O

A

F

TOKYO ry

• •O K y o t o

a

T

sa

H

P

A

C

ka

I C I F

N E A O C

it’s the 10th best-selling single malt on the planet, thanks to its popularity in Japan.

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Nestled in a forest, the distillery was located off the beaten path by founder Shinjiro Torii (right), who chose the site for its pure springs. The wort is still fermented in Douglas fir wash-backs (lower right). A photo from the 1920s shows the original staff. Today’s blenders (lower left) taste 200 to 300 samples of Yamazaki per day.

They followed the lead of Senno Rikyu, father of the Japanese

mizunara oak, grown, milled and made into butts by Suntory on the

tea ceremony, whose 16th century quest for the purest spring water

northern island of Hokkaido. Mizunara gives the whisky a subtle Asian

led him to Yamazaki, a pristine valley just southwest of Kyoto. The

spiciness that has been compared to incense.

valley marks the confluence of three rivers, the Katsura, Uji and Kizu,

Consider the permutations for aging Yamazaki in wood: three

whose varied temperatures create a near-constant layer of fog, not

kinds of oak, different sizes of cask, varying degrees of char applied to

unlike a Highland mist. Pure water and a cool, humid climate—not to

the interiors, the choice of new-fill versus second-fill. … It’s no wonder

mention the presence of an ancient Shinto shrine—made Yamazaki an

that in keeping tabs on the aging spirit and deciding which casks to

auspicious location for Suntory’s enterprise.

draw from in vatting Yamazaki single malt, the lucky resident blenders

The distillery, the first outside of Scotland to use copper pot stills,

taste 200 to 300 samples every day.

opened in 1923. According to lore, locals theorized that a ravenous

This kind of fanatical care has paid off handsomely. The two

monster lived in the building because great quantities of barley en-

expressions of Yamazaki available in the U.S., the 12-year-old and the

tered the “factory,” but no product ever came out. Not until six years

18-year-old, are both first-rate. Recently I tasted the 18-year-old, which

later, that is, when the first aged spirit was ready for market.

won, among other awards, double gold at the 2008 World Spirits Com-

Today Yamazaki, as both the distillery and its product are known, still follows the rigorous process of making malt whisky as taught by Scots masters, and then adds a few tweaks of its own. Most notably,

petition in San Francisco. Smooth and highly complex, this malt displays balanced fruit, spiciness and a just hint of smoke, with a long, dry finish. Many Japanese drink their whisky “mizuwari,” meaning mixed with

Yamazaki has upped the ante on barrel aging. Where many producers

water and ice in a highball glass. This dilute preparation goes well with

of Scotch whisky have sought novel expressions by aging the spirit in

sushi, but it would be a waste of Yamazaki. Try the 18-year-old with just a

two woods, Yamazaki has gone hogshead wild by using three kinds of

few drops of water, and see if it doesn’t stand up to the best of Scotland.

oak and a bewildering variety of casks. In common with Scotch, much Japanese whisky is aged in bourbon barrels, which by definition are made from charred American white oak. These barrels add dry flavors, vanilla and sometimes a hint of coconut to the whisky. In addition, like Scotch, Yamazaki is aged in Spanish oak butts. Some are ex-sherry casks and some are newly made by Suntory. Spanish oak imparts fruit flavors and sometimes a suggestion of chocolate and caramel. And then there is Japanese

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TASTING NOTES YAMAZAKI 18-YEAR-OLD C O L O R | Bright copper-gold N O S E | Woody—an old cedar closet in summer, a mossy oak log. Anise, turpentine, chocolate-covered cherries, vanilla. PA L AT E | Thick and creamy. Mocha butter cream. Dry sherry, rum raisin ice cream, grapefruit. Orange juice, spice, honey-roasted nuts.

M A R K D O W D E N was educated at the University of St. Andrews,

F I N I S H | Cedar-like and dry. Mixed fruits, pepper and wood smoke.

where he learned about pot stills and pot bunkers.

PRICE | $100 to $120

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{ grape }

Super Chinon:

DOMAINE

C O U LY- D U T H E I L

A lot of people fall in love with Chinon the village before they fall for

|

BY C Y N T H I A H U R L E Y

miles away from anything flashy, artificial or second-rate.

Chinon the wine. I think that’s the way it happened for me, but I’ve

It’s difficult to visit Chinon and have your glass stay empty for

been drinking Chinon for a very long time so I just can’t remember.

very long. The town’s spiritual guide is François Rabelais, the 16th

I do know I cannot taste a Chinon without a vivid picture of that gor-

century satirist who remarked on more than one occasion, “Beuvez

geous French village popping into my mind.

toujours, vous ne mourrez jamais” (Drink all the time and you will

I think about crossing the small bridge over the lazily lapping River Vienne. The bridge splits Chinon in half and sets you right down in the middle of town. For a quarter of a mile in each direction along

never die). Well, not unhappy, at least. You can tell the citizens of Chinon take their motto to heart. My favorite Chinon comes from Domaine Couly-Dutheil (Cooie-

the river rise charming stone houses, built right into the hillside and

dew-tay). Clos de l’Echo is the domaine’s flagship wine. It is 100%

trimmed with brightly painted shutters and prim lace curtains. Plane

Cabernet Franc and comes from the best vineyard in town, which

trees, stumpy and squat, scrupulously pruned, shade you in summer.

used to be owned by Rabelais’s father. The vineyard has beautiful

The land rises steeply from the river bank and on its highest part, with

exposure and slopes right up to the medieval château.

a lot of vineyards in between, sits a château, noble though in ruins. It

But there are other charmers in the Couly-Dutheil arsenal. The

was here that Joan of Arc convinced the wavering dauphin to put on the French crown as Charles VII and drive out the English. The village is an ancient place of beauty. In its open-air market,

118

With the ancient Château de Chinon standing guard (top left), workers harvest the vineyard of Clos de l’Echo. At right, Laurent Landry, cellar

you can sip your morning noir double and watch the trafficking of

master at Domaine de Couly-Dutheil, fills barrels with wine. Below, Jacques

ripe peaches and aromatic melons and cheeses and feel a million

Couly and his son Arnaud flank export manager Christophe Surget.

/

SPRING

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SUMMER 2009

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Organization is a beautiful thing.

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Checking the baby: Cellar master Laurent Landry inspects the color of aging wine. At right, a scene from the mid-October harvest on the high slopes of Clos de l’Echo. Below, wine ages in a stone cellar at Domaine Couly-Dutheil.

A Scotsman in Côtes du Rhône: McKinlay sold his information technology business to retire on a vineyard. But the extraordinary land on the slopes of Mont Ventoux drew him deeper into the new venture.

2005 René Couly takes its name from the creator of the Domaine Couly-Dutheil (René Couly married Madeleine Dutheil, so that explains the other half of the equation). This wine is made from grapes from several parcels of land along the river’s flood plain. The soil here is argilo-siliceux (clay and sandy-flinty), as opposed to the tuffeau limestone soil of the high slopes of Chinon. There is some smokiness in the nose.

fect acidity in your mouth. The color is like a perfect sunset after a perfect day of summer. The best rosé is made by pressing the grapes, the way you normally would for any red wine. The juice is allowed to sit with the grape skins briefly, picking up color, but also tannins, pectins and proteins which give the wine structure. Then the juice is drained off, put into another vat without the skins and the fermentation

Baronnie Madeleine is another special cuvée and made in a special way, only in the best vintages. The family conducts a blind tasting to identify a parcel of

proceeds. The process is called saignée. How about a glass of Chinon tonight? Rabelais would approve. Here’s to a long life!

a vineyard or a blend of parcels that will be named Chinon Baronnie Madeleine. They look for a style that represents the “feminine ideal,” i.e., richness and

DOMAINE COULY-DUTHEIL CHINON

elegance—round, charming, with complex tannins

TASTE | CLOS DE L’ECHO: BLACK CHERRY, CURRANT, IRON,

that will have good aging potential.

BLACK OLIVES. RENÉ COULY: ROUNDED BLACK AND RED FRUITS

And who can forget the rosé from CoulyDutheil? You will be seduced by its nervy charm, and it will bring summer to your lips. You can taste the hint of red berries (rosé should never just taste like pink white wine) and there is that zing of fresh, per-

AND SPICE. BARONNIE MADELEINE: PLUM, BLACK CURRANT AND BLACK CHERRY, TOBACCO, TAPENADE BEST DRUNK WITH | BRAISED MEATS, STEWS, CHICKEN DISHES WITH PUNGENT SAUCES BEST YEARS | 2005, 2006 PRICE | CLOS DE L’ECHO FROM $23, RENÉ COULY FROM $20, BARONNIE MADELEINE FROM $20

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C Y N T H I A H U R L E Y is an importer of French wines and

WHERE TO FIND IT | CENTRAL LIQUORS IN FLEMINGTON, WINE

a frequent writer on the subject.

& SPIRIT WORLD IN HO-HO-KUS

SPRING

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SUMMER 2009

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Located 50 minutes from Manhattan and 5 minutes from the ocean, Rumson offers green spaces and an active community, replete with terrific schools, children’s programs, a Junior League chapter and a welcoming committee. Real Estate Agent, Pauline Poyner, is a lifelong resident of Monmouth County and has been serving the Eastern Monmouth County area for thirteen years. Recently named one of 50 “Realtors on the Rise” by National Relocation & Real Estate Magazine, Pauline has collected industry accolades.

She ranks in the top 1% of Coldwell Banker agents nationwide, in the top 1% of Monmouth County Agents, and is the top agent in her Coldwell Banker Rumson office since 2001. Pauline has earned the New Jersey Association of Realtors’ Circle of Excellence Sales Award since 1997, achieving the highest status of Platinum in 2005, 2006 and 2007, for record breaking sales of over $32,000,000 each year.

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{ horoscope } Y O U R

S T Y L E

|

F O R E C A S T

A S

W R I T T E N

I N

T H E

B Y K I K I T.

S TA R S

TAURUS

a soft, diplomatic touch to defuse

(April 20 ~ May 20)

a volatile situation.

The hibernation season is over, and now

Top Cosmic Refreshers VACATION | PLAYA UVITA, COSTA RICA

is your moment to come barreling out of

DINING | SEA SCALLOPS WRAPPED IN KATAIFI

the cave in your full glory. Strive to project

NECESSITY | CHARVET NECKTIES

glamour and panache that will inspire those

INDULGENCE | COMPOSITEWORKS ALLURE

around you. But realize, too, that you can’t

CATAMARAN

win anything big unless you gain mastery over yourself. Happily, the stars see this as

VIRGO

your time, supporting your need to end bad

(August 23 ~ September 22)

habits and reboot that old self-confidence.

Hey, perfectionist! Stop being your own

Top Cosmic Refreshers

worst critic and take more pride in your

VACATION | TAORMINA, SICILY

accomplishments. And while you’re at

DINING | SEMOLINA GNOCCHI WITH

it, crack open that reserved exterior and

OXTAIL RAGÙ NECESSITY | DOLCE & GABBANA HANDBAG

let people see your sensitive side. A

INDULGENCE | CHOCOPOLOGIE BY

great start would be to bestow a big-time vacation on loved ones, and while there,

KNIPSCHILDT CHOCOLATIER

declare your real feelings. Why not make

GEMINI

summer 2009 a Summer of Love?

(May 21 ~ June 20)

Top Cosmic Refreshers VACATION | TURTLE ISLAND, FIJI

Sailing along with your head in the clouds,

DINING | WHITE TRUFFLE CROSTINI WITH

you’re having all sorts of delightful

ARUGULA AND BABY ENDIVE

inspirations. But be mindful that you can

NECESSITY | WARM-WEATHER SUITS

only tackle so many goals at once. Which

IN DOVE GRAY

brings up the question: Are you living to

INDULGENCE | BLUEAIR BOTTLED OXYGEN

be happy or living to be effective? You can balance fun and duty successfully, but you’re going to have to work at it.

it is. Better times are within your grasp.

Top Cosmic Refreshers

Top Cosmic Refreshers

VACATION | CRUISE ON THE OBEROI PHILAE

VACATION | CORNWALL, ENGLAND

DINING | ABALONE IN JADE SAUCE

DINING | CORNISH PASTIES AND STILTON

NECESSITY | CRUISE WEAR BY RALPH LAUREN

NECESSITY | LEATHER JACKET BY GIMO’S

INDULGENCE | TESLA ROADSTER

INDULGENCE | SOOLOOS SOUND SYSTEM

LIBRA (September 23 ~ October 22) You’ll need to be more patient with others and give in to the unknowable powers that are in control. Let fate unwind and take you where it may. While this might not be a bump-free journey, at the end you’ll find a

122

CANCER

LEO

new peace with the world that you haven’t

(June 21 ~ July 22)

(July 23 ~ August 22)

felt in ages. Think of this as taking a big

The solid areas of your life are going to

Your hard work is going to pay off, and

gulp from a spiritual fountain of youth.

be shifting in subtle ways, and these

if you keep moving and shaking it, big

Top Cosmic Refreshers

shifts will lead you to bigger changes. Pay

payouts will come quickly. That’s the

attention to real estate, family and social

upside. On the downside, you may be in

life. To make the most of opportunities, let

for some emotional drama of soap-operatic

go of preconceived notions, including your

proportions. Do not be ruthless, no

complacency that life is just fine the way

matter what instinct may tell you. Try

/

SPRING

VACATION | THE VICEROY, PALM SPRINGS DINING | CHOCOLATE BRIOCHE FRENCH TOAST NECESSITY | VILEBREQUIN’S FATHER-ANDSON SWIM TRUNKS INDULGENCE | KINDLE ELECTRONIC READER CONTINUED

SUMMER 2009

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{ horoscope }

SCORPIO

Top Cosmic Refreshers VACATION | HVAR, CROATIA

(October 23 ~ November 21)

DINING | BLACK COD WITH CHANTERELLE RAGOUT

New commitments in love spring up and

NECESSITY | BEACH SANDALS BY TORY BURCH

kick off one of the more romantic times of

INDULGENCE | HARLEY-DAVIDSON 1200 NIGHTSTER

your life. Be ready to wear your heart on your sleeve—vulnerability can be one of

PISCES

your sexiest assets—and embrace what

(February 20 ~ March 20)

comes your way. And speaking of sleeves,

Watch your back, as some competitors are

invest in some new warm-weather clothes

out to get you. (Hey, what else is new!)

with extra sex appeal, and watch the

Keep your secrets close, and watch out

temperature rise.

for booby traps. But know too that luck is

Top Cosmic Refreshers

on your side, and when all settles down

VACATION | ANSE CHASTANET, ST. LUCIA

by summer, you can aptly reward yourself

DINING | BRAISED CHILI-SPICED SHORT RIBS

with two of the things you dig the most—

NECESSITY | ROBERTO CAVALLI EVENING DRESS

love and travel.

INDULGENCE | BULGARI’S SOTIRIO

Top Cosmic Refreshers

BULGARI TIMEPIECE

VACATION | CASSIS, CÔTE D’AZUR DINING | BOURBON-PECAN PIE AND

SAGITTARIUS

MINT JULEPS

(November 22 ~ December 21)

NECESSITY | “DIE TRYING” PENDANT

One-on-one time is a luxury you’ll have

BY SCOTT KAY

to spare, as team efforts will become the

INDULGENCE | MOONEY ACCLAIM TYPE S

main theme of your season. Give full rein

PERSONAL AIRCRAFT

to your charitable side and your karmic rating will soar, to say nothing of your

muted business wardrobe. The universe

ARIES

satisfaction with life. Be patient, realizing

wants you to get noticed.

(March 21 ~ April 19)

that life’s major goals aren’t always

Top Cosmic Refreshers

Your place is at the top—as if you needed

reached in a linear fashion.

VACATION | CAPTAIN MORSE HOUSE,

Top Cosmic Refreshers VACATION | VALENCIA, SPAIN DINING | STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB SEMIFREDDO

MARTHA’S VINEYARD DINING | PAN-SEARED COLORADO LAMB CHOPS

NECESSITY | PAUL SMITH BLAZER

NECESSITY | SUNGLASSES BY TIFFANY & CO.

INDULGENCE | LOCKHEED LOUNGE CHAIR

INDULGENCE | DI VAPOR’S COSMO

BY MARC NEWSON

TV BATHTUB

reminding. But to maintain your perch, you need to make a swift dash into the future. This is the time to cut away from the pack and go cutting-edge, as in upgrading your wardrobe and your gadgetry to the state of the art. This will put you on a whole new playing field, and may make you realize

124

CAPRICORN

AQUARIUS

how boring and easy the old one was.

(December 22 ~ January 19)

(January 20 ~ February 19)

Top Cosmic Refreshers

Break free of convention: Using that

If you want to see your latest project take

VACATION | MT. RUAPEHU, NEW ZEALAND DINING | BARRAMUNDI WITH FENNEL AND ORANGE

wild imagination of yours to commun-

off with the aid of others, you’re going

icate your ideas is going to be way

to have to realize: Those people are your

more effective than taking the usual

colleagues, and they need their voices

conservative path. Go out on a limb to

heard. Compromise may be in the cards as

paint a picture, and be sure to dress

the only way to make everyone feel part of

the part. Reflect your true colors by

the plan. But that doesn’t mean you need to

K I K I T. is the author of

wearing the bold colors of the season,

compromise personal style. Standing out, in

Handbook: Astrological Tips for Satisfying

even if they’re just accents to a

fact, will lead you to greater success.

Seduction and Ultimate Love.

/

SPRING

NECESSITY | J BRAND JEANS INDULGENCE | FLIP VIDEO ULTRA SERIES CELL-PHONE-SIZE CAMCORDER

The Celestial Sexpot’s

SUMMER 2009

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more than just doors

Brielle Showroom • 402 Higgins Avenue • Brielle, NJ 08730 • 732.223.1400

I

Madison Showroom • 64 Main Street • Madison, NJ 07940 • 973.443.9500

www.distinctivedoorsnj.com

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Page 142

{ service directory } THE

GARMANY

EXPERIENCE

Just as our designers take great pride in the clothing that bears their name, we are extremely proud of the amenities and services that make shopping at Garmany

The Garmany parking lot is large, free and secure.

EMERGENCY SERVICE

And it puts you just steps from the welcoming

Sooner or later, a clothing

red awning at our back door.

emergency happens. You

ABUNDANT PARKING

may be far from home (the

a pleasure. Our philosophy is that first-

airline lost your luggage) or

class customers deserve first-class care

LOUNGE AND BAR

at home (the cat shredded

Like any gracious host,

your tuxedo, and the wed-

we always offer our

from the moment they walk through our

guests something to drink.

doors. We aim to transcend the tradition-

Whether you’re shopping in first-floor menswear or

al retail customer relationship, creating

browsing the women’s col-

instead a bond that exceeds expectations. Please take advantage of any and

lections upstairs, you’ll find a spot to relax, reflect and enjoy coffee, espresso, cappuccino or a cool drink. If the notion strikes you for something more

all of the services described here as part

bracing, we have wine, beer and a full bar.

ding’s tonight!). Whatever the disaster, Garmany will help you recover. Just place a call to our emergency hotline at 732-8015500 or 732-865-6855, and we’ll make ourselves and our store available to outfit you at the eleventh hour.

of your Garmany Experience.

TAILOR SHOP

Our on-site tailor shop is at your disposal

We encourage you to bring the

for alterations to your Garmany purchases. We provide same-

younger set to Garmany, and we attend to them as we

day service as a rule and can usually handle minor alterations

would any other family members. Our second-floor

while you wait. The same goes for emergency repairs and rou-

movie theater is a particular hit with kids. With our the-

tine wardrobe maintenance, such as tightening loose buttons:

ater seating, a massive screen, high-def picture and

Bring the garment in, and we’ll fix that button on the spot.

MOVIE THEATER

awesome sound system, your kids can enjoy a variety of titles from our film library or bring along a favorite

MADE-TO-MEASURE SERVICE

DVD of their own.

As talented as a local tailor may be, he can only provide the limited

We’re just as pet

patterns and materials on hand.

friendly as we are kid

At Garmany, our made-to-measure

friendly. A pet is a

service takes advantage of the rela-

member of the family,

tionships we have established with

and we want to make

Italian manufacturers to deliver a suit that is smart and sexy—

all your family mem-

and a good value—in as little as four weeks. You won’t find a

bers feel at home.

better 30-day plan to look your best.

49 PRIVATE CHANGING ROOMS

No matter where you are in Garmany, you’re only a few

paces away from a spacious, comfortable changing room. We never planned on 49, but after we located them in the places we knew would be most convenient, that’s how it worked out. 126

/

SPRING • SUMMER 2009

JAMES TURNER ILLUSTRATION

PETS WELCOME


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Page 143

{ resources } OLD-FASHIONED SHOESHINE

Garmany may be

the only place in Red Bank where you can still get a

All brands and products featured in this issue are available at Garmany unless otherwise noted. Sources of those other brands and products are listed below.

shine without removing the shoes from your feet. A few minutes in our shoeshine chair will make you feel ready to take on the world.

THE GARMANY GUIDE James Yarosh Associates

732-993-5278 (www.jamesyarosh.com) Count Basie Theatre

732-842-9000 (www.countbasietheatre.org) Ed Hardy Smart Car

SHOPPING BY APPOINTMENT

EXPERTISE

the Garmany Experience is super-

Pierre Deux, Red Bank

If our store hours don’t fit your schedule,

lative service in a relaxed atmos-

732-383-7479 (www.pierredeux.com)

call us. If you’re a morning person who

phere. If you want to browse in

Tiffany & Co., Red Bank

finds 7 a.m. the ideal time for your

private, you’re more than welcome.

Garmany Experience, we will arrange to be

When you need expert, individual

AUDACITY PAYS OFF

here. Does the commute put you on the

attention, you’ll get it—instantly

Schneider + Nelson Audi

platform at 9 p.m.? No problem. Shopping

and for as long as you want. Our

by appointment allows us to give you the

knowledgeable staff is well versed

HEIRLOOM APPARENT

personal attention and shopping time you

in all of the brands we carry, the

Hamilton Jewelers, Red Bank

need, when your schedule permits.

trends of the season and how to fit

A central part of

(www.edhardysmartcar.com)

732-345-8150 (www.tiffany.com)

732-389-1000

732-741-9600 (www.hamiltonjewelers.com)

every body type. They stand ready

A ROLLING HIGHLAND FLING

to advise you on all matters of

The Royal Scotsman

PRIVATE SHOPPING SERVICE

wardrobe and accessories.

You don’t have to be an A-list

GARMANY GIFT CARDS: A FLATTERING FIT

celebrity to get

A Garmany Gift Card guarantees

the red-carpet

your gift will be the perfect style,

treatment at

size and color. Purchase a gift card

800-524-2420 (www.royalscotsman.com) Academic Arrangements Abroad

800-221-1944 (www.arrangementsabroad.com)

AND SO TO BED Martyn Lawrence-Bullard

323-655-5080 (www.martynlawrencebullard.com) Miles Redd

(www.milesredd.com) Nate Berkus

(www.nateberkus.com)

Garmany. Our private shopping service will

in the store or online in any

enable you to sample your favorite designer

denomination you choose for a

OLD MACDONALD: GOLF’S NEW CHALLENGE

collections at leisure with a knowledgeable

remembrance that will dazzle any

Bandon Dunes Golf Resort

member of our staff.

lucky recipient.

888-345-6008 (www.bandondunesgolf.com)

To reserve an item shown in this issue

THAT’S A WRAP!

or plan your trip to GARMANY, call the store at 732-576-8500.

After choosing the perfect present, our complimentary gift wrap makes your Garmany gift extra special. For birthdays, holidays or milestone events, any day is a good day to take advantage of our professionally prepared gift presentations.

REFUNDS HAPPEN While most stores dread discussing their return policy, we can sum up ours in three words: No questions asked. All we do request is that you bring your purchase back within 31 days.

Tell It to Us Straight

Your feedback will help us improve the Garmany Experience and GARMANY magazine. Please take a moment to answer our online survey at www.garmany.com/survey. The survey is administered by an independent company and responses are anonymous, so please be completely candid. The more we know about your likes and dislikes, the better we can serve you.


{ finishing touch }

|

BY J O H N E L L GA R M A N Y

Dos and don’ts for the well-dressed man Dos Do keep your suit jacket buttoned when standing or walking. Do make sure your socks are high enough to keep your shins covered when you cross your legs. No flashes of bare skin, please (unless you are sock-less). Do wear brown shoes (in calfskin, cordovan, alligator, peccary or even suede) with a grey or navy suit. Do for a change, wear monk-strap shoes or low, formal boots with a suit. Do match the color of your belt and shoes. Do wear a pocket square with your suit or sportcoat, whether or not you’re wearing a tie. Do wear a printed shirt, either alone or with a sportcoat or suit, for an up-to-date, sporty look. Do wear colored or patterned socks with a suit (but watch out for pattern conflict). Do carry both a credit card case and money clip if necessary to avoid carrying an overstuffed, hold-everything wallet. Do wear a linen, cotton or silk pocket square with a tuxedo. Do have your hair trimmed subtly and often. Do wear a boldly patterned necktie with a dark suit.

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/

FA L L

Don’t experiment with dress in important business situations. Don’t wear a matched set of necktie and pocket square. A little variation in color or pattern is key. Don’t wear a short-sleeved shirt with a suit jacket or sportcoat. Don’t wear a button-down collar with a double-breasted jacket. Don’t wear penny loafers with a business suit. Don’t let your t-shirt peek out from an open shirt collar. Don’t remove your jacket when you’re wearing a necktie. Don’t wear the same cologne as everyone else. Distinguish yourself with a unique scent, such as Laurentino. Don’t neglect your casual wardrobe and risk being mistaken for a hobo. Don’t rent a tuxedo. You should own one—or more—of your own. Don’t mix grosgrain and satin facings on your tuxedo and accessories. Stick to one style of silk. Don’t wear a black stud set with white tie and tails. Don’t wear black shoes with seersucker. Don’t wear your sunglasses on top of your head. If you need to remove your glasses, hold them in your hand.

EV E RE TT DI G I TA L NY

Do wear a white dinner jacket to a summer black-tie affair.

Don’ts

Don’t wear clothes that you find uncomfortable.

WINTER 2008

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Black Label

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Garmany Magazine: Spring/Summer 2009 issue  

The Spring/Summer Issue of Garmanu

Garmany Magazine: Spring/Summer 2009 issue  

The Spring/Summer Issue of Garmanu