Gourmet_BG_409_v3.jcREV
3/27/09
2:47 PM
Page 48
Bergen GOURMET
by Maria Lissandrello
expect a refined presentation. We opened our appetites with the asparagus and exotic mushrooms. The nicely seasoned green stalks were arranged in a neat bundle, the mushrooms creating a stripe across them. Shiitake, oyster and Portobello mushrooms, reduced to their essential goodness, commingled nicely. The onion and leek tart is a pretty little round housed in puff pastry. Surprisingly mild, the dish contains no pungent herbs or strong goat cheese to overpower the bulbs’ flavor. It seems Chef Baills intentionally keeps the onion and leek from caramelizing so they become one with the simple creamy custard. A salad of endive, radicchio and Roquefort is exquisite. Arranged almost as if a salade composée— quartered endives create a star that surrounds the radicchio, with sensuous, tangy Roquefort crumbles becoming a delightful crown—it’s dressed with a lively Pommery mustard vinaigrette. Also beautifully arranged are the diver scallops— a mound of five creates the center circle on a large dinner plate. It’s surrounded by a smoky veal reduction, then a piping of silky mashed potatoes forming the outermost ring. Carrot slices, French bean snips and small zucchini A DEVOTED ATTENTION TO DETAIL. THAT’S triangles alternate around the edge of the plate in a fanwhat you notice when you enter Chef ’s Table, a French ciful garnish. And the flavor? Impeccable! The scallops restaurant tucked in the corner of the bland Franklin are fresh, moist and sweet, and their plate-mates make Square strip mall in Franklin Lakes. From the lacy curthem taste fuller and richer. tains to the many paintings to the Provençal palette of blue Baills’ wife runs the front of the intimate 45-seat and cream, it’s clear that chef-owner Claude Baills wants restaurant, and she encouraged us to order the calves’ liver you to feel at home. Even the sign askspecial, as it’s not often on the menu. ing patrons to wait for the front door Indeed, the three slices of buttery C h e f ’s Ta b l e to close before opening the second liver, fanned out and accompanied by 754 Franklin Avenue, Franklin Lakes; door into the dining room shows how mini-fans of carrots, tender roasted 201-891-6644; www.chefstablenj.com much he thinks about the diner. potatoes and green beans, are not to Baills opened this gem in be missed. Sautéed in a Madeira Hours 1998, after working at the New York sauce and served with caramelized LUNCH: Tuesday through Friday, restaurants Laurent and Lutece and, onions, the meat becomes very nearly noon–1:30 p.m. on this side of the Hudson, at the dessert-like. DINNER: Tuesday through Thursday, Ho-Ho-Kus Inn. Yet when he comes 5–8:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, As for the actual desserts, 5–9 p.m.; Sunday, 5–8 p.m. out to greet guests with a blue kerbased on our selections—crêpes filled chief tied around his neck, it’s obviwith vanilla ice cream and topped What you should know ous his soul has never strayed far with fresh caramel sauce and slivered • Entrées average $28 from his native France. toasted almonds, as well as a buttery • BYO Hence, a menu that is true to apple tarte tatin—they’re a must-try. • Reservations recommended his roots. On Saturdays and Sundays, As my companion said upon scoop• Handicapped accessible cassoulet; on any day, escargots, duck, ing up the last of the luscious • Mastercard, Visa and Diners Club steak—and plenty of butter and garcaramel, “If it were socially acceptable accepted lic. And no matter what you order, to lick the plate, I would!” ■
From France, with love
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A P R I L - M AY 2 0 0 9
CHRISTOPHER BARTH
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