Page 1

560+

WINES REVIEWED

AUSTRIAN RED WINES

WASHINGTON’S WINE FAMILIES

BEACH DRINKS

JUNE 2018

THE

CALIFORNIA ISSUE SONOMA CHARDONNAY SANTA LUCIA HIGHLANDS TOURING TEMECULA

Winemag.com


52

Highlands high life

THE CALIFORNIA ISSUE 42

Features 42

Zippy in Sonoma

ACID TRIP BY VIRGINIE BOONE

We search for high-acid Chardonnay along the Sonoma Coast.

52

VINES WITH VIEWS BY MATT KETTMANN

It’s worth the challenge to explore California’s Santa Lucia Highlands.

59

RED VINES RISING BY ANNE KREBIEHL, MW

Austria’s fresh and versatile red wines are ready for prime time.

65

ALL IN THE FAMILY BY SEAN P. SULLIVAN

These pioneering Washington wineries are still going strong.

74

BEACHY KEEN BY KARA NEWMAN

Kick back and relax with these summer-ready cocktails from the world’s best sandy retreats.

82

THE COOL FACTOR BY NILS BERNSTEIN

These inventive chilled soups help beat the heat.

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

Cover photo by MEG BAGGOTT


©2017 TRINCHERO WINERY, ST. HELENA, CA

DISCOV ER THE PINNACLE OF NA PA VA LLEY HOSPITA LIT Y The Trinchero family has been making wine in Napa Valley since 1948 and Trinchero Napa Valley serves to honor the legacy of founder Mario Trinchero. Our brand new tasting room is a truly unique and inviting space where visitors can gather for an unparalleled Napa Valley experience. Taste exclusive, small-lot, single-vineyard wines from our premier Napa Valley estates, sample delectable food and wine pairings, and discover the art of winemaking like never before through behind-the-scenes barrel tastings in our wine cave. Today, we welcome visitors to be part of our extended family.

¦ V I S I T T R I N C H E R O N A P AVA L L E Y. C O M T O S C H E D U L E A P R I VA T E T O U R ¦


24 Jon Bon Jovi, Gérard Bertrand, Jesse Bongiovi

Departments

Columns

WINEMAG.COM

EDITORS’ LETTER

10

8

Top Foodie Cities

BY ADAM STRUM AND SUSAN KOSTRZEWA

OUT & ABOUT 12

Prowein; Santa Barbara Wine Auction; Vinisud; 5k to Rebuild Wine Country

Golden State Greatness

VIEWPOINT 40

Made in California? BY JIM GORDON

THE CRUSH 19 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38

America’s vignerons Coastal bubbles Q+A: Bon Jovi, Bongiovi and Bertrand In-tonic-ating flavors Gin botanicals from the heartland A berry important guide Temecula’s wheel attractions A recipe for salad days Where to eat, drink and play in Lisbon Rhubarb awakening

LAST DROP 136

Words Mean Things BY JULIA CONEY

Buying Guide 94 112 116 118 121 122 123

Germany Burgundy Southwest France Campania Spain Portugal Australia

125 126 129 132 133 134 135

Washington Oregon California Chile Uruguay Spirits Beer

34 Grill power 4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018


VOLUME 31, NUMBER 5

PUBLISHER & EDITOR Adam M. Strum SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF MEDIA Jay Spaleta EXECUTIVE EDITOR Susan Kostrzewa EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo SENIOR EDITOR Layla Schlack ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe SPIRITS EDITOR Kara Newman CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl, Christina Pickard CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Nils Bernstein CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, LIFESTYLE & ENTERTAINING Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, TRAVEL Lauren Mowery CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, BUSINESS Leslie Gevirtz DIGITAL DIGITAL CONTENT DIRECTOR Marina Vataj SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Siobhan Wallace ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Elyse Estrella JUNIOR SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Evan Spadaccini CREATIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Megan Baggott DIRECTOR OF PRINT PRODUCTION Barbara Gianisis DIGITAL DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Matthew Dimas TASTING TASTING DIRECTOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING MANAGER Alexander Peartree SENIOR TASTING COORDINATOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Carrie Dykes EDITORIAL OFFICES HEADQUARTERS 200 Summit Lake Drive, Valhalla, NY 10595 TEL: 914.345.9463 editor@wineenthusiast.net CALIFORNIA Virginie Boone vboone@wineenthusiast.net; Jim Gordon jgordon@wineenthusiast.net; Matt Kettmann mkettmann@wineenthusiast.net EUROPE Roger Voss rvoss@wineenthusiast.net; Anne Krebiehl akrebiehl@wineenthusiast.net ITALY Kerin O’Keefe kokeefe@wineenthusiast.net PACIFIC NORTHWEST Paul Gregutt pgregutt@wineenthusiast.net; Sean Sullivan ssullivan@wineenthusiast.net

ADVERTISING & MARKETING

THE NEW GLASS FOR PINOT NOIR

SENIOR VP PUBLISHING Jay Spaleta TEL: 914.218.9262 jspaleta@wineenthusiast.net SALES MARKETING DIRECTOR Brett Rachlin brachlin@wineenthusiast.net CREATIVE SERVICES DIRECTOR Taryn Sefecka tsefecka@wineenthusiast.net WEST COAST DIRECTOR Allison Langhoff TEL: 800.321.4105 alanghoff@wineenthusiast.net CENTRAL CALIFORNIA ACCOUNT MANAGER Jen Hord TEL: 831.747.4635 jhord@wineenthusiast.net WEST COAST ACCOUNT MANAGER Karen Moore TEL: 510.225.8537 kmoore@wineenthusiast.net WEST COAST MEDIA ASSISTANT Viara Dietrich TEL: 415.717.1905 vdietrich@wineenthusiast.net FLORIDA & BUYING GUIDE MANAGER Denise Valenza TEL: 800.315.4397 dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net NY ACCOUNT MANAGER Margaret Kalaher mkalaher@wineenthusiast.net ACCOUNT MANAGER Sherrill Flaum sflaum@wineenthusiast.net MARKETING ANALYST Gregory Jones gjones@wineenthusiast.net ADVERTISING SERVICES COORDINATOR Chuck Criss ccriss@wineenthusiast.net DIGITAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL ADVERTISING Greg Remillard gremillard@wineenthusiast.net DIGITAL ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR Bridget Thomas bthomas@wineenthusiast.net

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WINE ENTHUSIAST COMPANIES CHAIRMAN Adam M. Strum CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Sybil Strum CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Heidi Moore CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER Glenn Edelman VICE PRESIDENT OF MARKETING Erika Strum VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES Marshall Tilden DIRECTOR OF NEW BUSINESS & COMMUNICATIONS Jacqueline Strum Wine Enthusiast (ISSN 1078.3318) is published monthly with one special issue, a total of 13 times per year. Wine Enthusiast may occasionally publish a double issue. Double issues count as 2 issues of the 13 in an annual subscription. Wine Enthusiast may also publish occasional extra issues. Subscriptions are $34.95 (International: Canada $59.95; Foreign $89.95). ©2018 Wine News, Inc. 200 Summit Lake Drive, Valhalla, NY 10595. Periodical postage paid at Valhalla, NY and additional mailing oices. Manufactured and printed in the USA. Reprints: You must obtain permission to reproduce any material. Postmaster: Please send address changes to Wine Enthusiast, P.O. Box 420234, Palm Coast, FL 32142.0234.

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018


THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.

Austrian wines are invitations.

of nature, Austrian wines proudly stand

Simply open a cellar door to meet the

among the world’s greatest wines and

most approachable international stars

are poured at renowned restaurants all

imaginable: the great wines of Austria.

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austrianwine.com


GOLDEN STATE GREATNESS California is still the king of wine diversity in the U.S.

L

ast October, the news was illed with horrifying stories of California wine country and the residents who were under siege of wildires that would destroy thousands of homes and take dozens of lives from north to south. Today, though the memories and impact of those ires continue to loom large, the current news is positive: Wine country is open for business, and California’s 2017 vintage is excellent. In fact, the quality and diversity of California’s vinous oferings has never been better. Sure, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay still reign

We celebrate the rich culture that is California wine, highlighting experimental winemakers, emerging regions and the best travel adventures statewide.

and the best travel adventures statewide. We hope you’ll discover new insights on one of our favorite American wine hotspots. Think you know California Chardonnay? On page 42, Contributing Editor Virginie Boone asks us to think again, asserting a new wave of elegant, higher-acid Chards from cooler coastal regions like Fort Ross-Seaview, Petaluma Gap and the West Sonoma Coast. We tell you who to watch and what to buy. Moving south, the scenic Santa Lucia Highlands wine region is the focus of Contributing Editor Matt Kettmann’s piece on page 52. Home to lush yet balanced wines, the region is also known for its stunning vineyards and jaw-dropping landscapes, including nearby Carmel-by-the-Sea and Carmel Valley. Also in the issue: American vignerons working from vine to glass (page 19), a new take on classic beach drinks (page 74) and an exploration of Austria’s vibrant red wines that are perfect for year-round enjoyment (page 59). Cheers!

supreme, but skilled winemakers are mastering unique expressions across the Golden State that ring true to the area’s varied terroirs and diverse appellations. Beyond Cab and Chard, international imports like Tannat, Sangiovese and Albariño, to name just a few, are becoming increasingly present as well. It all emphasizes the innovation and imaginative rethinking of the state’s traditional identity. In this, our California issue, we celebrate the rich culture that is California wine, highlighting experimental winemakers, emerging regions

ADAM M. STRUM EDITOR & PUBLISHER

@adamstrum

SUSAN KOSTRZEWA EXECUTIVE EDITOR

@suskostrzewa

COMING NEXT MONTH Grilling How-To Summer is in full swing, so ditch the oven and get outside with these recipes— and equally great wine pairings—to help you get grilling.

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

Chianti Low-quality examples earned Chianti a bad rap throughout the 20th century, but today’s versions are savory reds of outstanding quality. Here’s what you need to know about this category’s comeback.

Kentucky’s Bourbon Country The Bluegrass State doesn’t horse around when it comes to Bourbon. Discover both old and new distilleries to visit, and get a look at life across Louisville.

U.S. Wine Renegades America’s most up-and-coming winemakers are emerging from all over the country. We seek out the vintners and the places producing tomorrow’s favorites.

Global Guide to Sauvignon Blanc Refreshing, vivid and citrusy-tart, we examine a range of Sauvignon Blanc expressions from around the world and tell you which bottles to look for now.


WINEMAG.COM

TOP FOODIE CITIES

These places may not be the first that come to mind when you think of great food and drink—until now. We shine a spotlight on oft-overlooked locales and highlight the culinary bellwethers transforming America's dining landscape. Visit winemag.com/foodiecities and plan your trip(s).

BOISE, IDAHO Surrounded by Idaho’s emerging wine region, Snake River Valley, the surprisingly lively capital of Boise will tempt you with local bottles and great meals.

LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY Barbecue and the Bourbon Trail are must-dos in the so-called “Horse Capital of the World,” but this city’s diverse food and drink scene has a lot more to offer, too.

SIOUX FALLS, SOUTH DAKOTA A passionate dining community is gaining steam in South Dakota’s largest city. Visit here for everything from walleye tacos to long-fermented breads.

Follow us @WineEnthusiast

BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA A mix of reliable standards and emerging hotspots make Birmingham a place to visit. Check out top stops for eating and drinking, along with a recipe for classic Alabama white sauce.

ALBUQUERQUE, NEW MEXICO This unsung Southwest destination is on the rise, offering offbeat travel for foodies, oenophiles and those who celebrate the almighty chile.

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

HONOLULU, HAWAII Don’t come to Hawaii without visiting the historic state capitol of Honolulu and sampling the destination-worthy food and drink “The Big Pineapple” offers.


out&about SIPS AND SNAPS AROUND THE GLOBE

PROWEIN 2018 Düsseldorf, Germany, welcomed more than 60,000 visitors this March for the latest rendition of ProWein, an annual international trade fair for wine and spirits. Often regarded as a who’s-who of industry elite, professionals took in three days of tastings, lectures and exhibitions that featured wine and spirits from around the globe.

Director of ProWein Marius Berlemann

Winemaker Moritz Haidle, Weingut Karl Haidle; W.E. Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa; Vice President Eva Rowe, Messe Düsseldorf North America

Attendees of the sold out February dinner put on by Santa Barbara Vintners Foundation bid on various experiences to raise funds for Direct Relief, a pharmaceutical nonprofit.

Owner and General Manager Fred Brander, The Brander Vineyards

Autioneer DawnMarie Kotsonis

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

MESSE DÜSSELDORF/CTILLMANN; ISAAC HERNANDEZ HERRERO

THE 10TH SANTA BARBARA WINE AUCTION


There’s More Than One Great Oregon Wine Region VisitRoseburg.com/ORwine ROSEBURG, OREGON, HEART OF THE FOR A FREE VISITORS GUIDE TO OUR LAND CALL 800-440-9584 OR VISIT OUR WEBSITE.


out&about SIPS AND SNAPS AROUND THE GLOBE

VINISUD One of the world’s leading industry showcases, Vinisud took over the exhibition center in Montpellier, France, this February. Visitors mingled with more than 1,000 exhibitors and enjoyed free tastings. Aimed at promoting wines from the Languedoc and neighboring Mediterranean appellations, this year’s event focused on current market trends and exploring unusual grape varieties.

W.E. European Editor Roger Voss

5K TO REBUILD WINE COUNTRY Racers of all sorts, including W.E. Contributing Editor Jim Gordon, put a best foot forward this March in a 5k across Napa Valley in support of Rebuild Wine Country. Funds raised benefited Habitat for Humanity

ADAM DECKER

of Sonoma.

Center: Volunteer Executive Director Chris Stieter, Rebuild Wine Country; Chairman John Kennedy, Habitat for Humanity Sonoma County, with race attendees and volunteers

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018


S P EC I A L P R O M O T I O N

ITALIAN ART, ARTISANS & WINE—THE PERFECT PAIRING ,Q,WDO\WKHHVVHQFHRIUHÀQHPHQWLVNQRZQDVIDUHEHOODÀJXUDWRPDNHDEHDXWLIXOLPSUHVVLRQ)RU,WDOLDQV LQHYHU\ZDONRIOLIH³ZLQHPDNHUVFKHIVDUWLVWVFUDIWVSHRSOH³LWFDOOVIRUUHDFKLQJSHUIHFWLRQLQHYHU\ HQGHDYRU$WUDLWWKDWHQGXUHVIDUIURPKRPHZH¡YHIRXQGDUWLVWVGHVLJQHUVDQGUHVWDXUDWHXUVZKREULQJ WKLVVXSHULRUOHYHORIZRUNPDQVKLSWKHVDPHDUWLVWU\IRXQGLQ,WDOLDQZLQHWRWKH86

Spiaggia

Some sophisticated cities naturally attract these world-class Italian artists: Chicago has lured Maestro Riccardo Muti from Naples to conduct the Chicago Symphony, architect Renzo Piano to design the Modern Wing of the Art Institute, and master tailors to create bespoke Burdi suits, employing purist details such as 1,000 hand stiches shaping each lapel. Chef Tony Mantuano

established Spiaggia with a similar respect for authentic Italian excellence, building a vast cellar that embraces wines from re-emerging regions, such as an elegant Pecorino from the Marche. Chef Luisa Silvia used her Bolognese grandmother’s book of lovingly handwritten recipes as the foundation for Merlo on Maple where she sources classic Lambrusco and Albana di Romagna from that epicurean region, and Osteria Langhe pays homage to vineyard-carpeted Piemonte w i t h rich Barolos and Barbarescos. N e w Yo r ke r s à RFNWRWKH3LDJgio Vespa Aprilia Moto Guzzi shop with its sleek scooters and sp or t ive riding gear to experi -

Osteria Mamma

ence a slice of Italy’s open road, and to restaurant Pepolino, named for the fragrant Tuscan wild thyme, for a taste of Italian countryside. Pasta YLUWXRVR6LOYLD%DUEDQRZQHURI/D5LQD3DVWLÀFLR & Vino and Aita, also looks to rural Italy for lesserknown wines such as Piemonte’s aromatic white Timorasso, and at Il Gattopardo Chef Gianfranco Sorrentino seeks out long-established family producers to build a deep wine list that includes rare Amarones from historic Verona. Exceptional Italian craftsmanship even inspires future facing L.A. where the splendid Italianate ceiling of the 1920s Bank of Italy building is the centerpiece of the new NoMad hotel. Here fast-lane film cognoscenti can still find cultivated family establishments like Osteria Mamma, where time-honored recipes and little known wines, like the northern Italian white Lugana, celebrate the deep roots of traditional Italy.


TA S T E T H E PA S S I O N


Around the world in Sonoma County. We are blessed with a rich diversity of climate, soil and topography in Sonoma County. From Cabernet and Zinfandel to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, our multi-generational small family farmers grow an abundance of winegrape varieties that are the backbone of our world class wines. Where in the world can you find Gewürztraminer, Sangiovese and Mourvèdre grown locally and sustainably? Sonoma County. That’s where. We are Sonoma County Strong.

Learn more at sonomawinegrape.org


THE VINE WHISPERER

JAMES BUETI

Attention to detail and a feel for good grapes make Mac McDonald’s Sonoma Pinot Noirs shine. >>

Edward Lee “Mac” McDonald grew up on Texas moonshine—his dad made it—but a taste of Burgundy at age 12 made wine his dream. When he was in his 50s, McDonald bottled his first Vision Cellars Pinot Noir, under an African-mask label that he designed. Purchasing his own Sonoma County vineyard, which he named Ms. Lil’s Vineyard for his wife, was a natural step for someone with his precision, high standards and country sensibility. His wines are elegant and bright, though McDonald prefers wearing overalls and a straw hat, spending as much time tending his vines as he can. —Layla Schlack

Read on to learn more about the American vintners splitting time between winery and vineyard.

WINEMAG.COM | 19


ROOT TO BOTTLE

MEET THE AMERICAN VIGNERONS W

hen you hear the word vigneron, your mind may wander to a vineyard in rural France where a figure in a dark beret and wine-stained apron works the grapevines with pruning shears in one hand and a Gauloise in the other. Or maybe the character is in a cellar, pouring liquid from a wine thief into a tastevin over a candlelit barrel. That classic style of vigneron, or winegrower, tended to the grapes and made wine with minimal family or outside assistance. Their main companion in the vineyard was oten a plow horse. There were no crews, no enologists, no laboratory or vast array of cellar equipment, only oak barrels. While only a handful of modern winemakers mirror that proile, American winemakers who embody the spirit and work ethic of the classic vigneron do exist. Here are a few of them. —Roger Morris

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

1. Dawnine & Bill Dyer Dyer Vineyards and Dyer Straits Wine Co. Calistoga, CA The Dyers are high-profile winemakers who switched to small-volume, hands-on winemaking in 1993, when they planted just over two acres of vines on Napa Valley’s Diamond Mountain. Today, Dyer Vineyards specializes in a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blend and an occasional varietal Cabernet Franc. The couple handles all the most important vineyard functions, like pruning, as well as the winemaking. Handson work in the vineyard creates a better understanding of the grapes, says Dawnine. “You get better and better in understanding how far you can push the fruit and to control tannins,” she says. “Our goal is to harvest in one go, and to make that happen starts with pruning.”

2. Jim Pfeiffer Turtle Run Winery Corydon, IN Pfeiffer’s first vines were planted on his Indiana Uplands AVA property in 1998, but he says that the maturation of his 12-acre vineyard “has certainly been an evolution.” Severe winter conditions in 2012 prompted him to replant the decimated vinifera vines with more coldhardy hybrids. Now, he and just one assistant begin winter pruning two weeks ater the first hard freeze, though he does hire student labor during the summer. Once those hybrid grapes are harvested, he seeks alternative methods to avoid too much manipulation. “I discovered that freezing dry reds, really freezing them, does drive out tannin content. I also use sur-lees stirring of spent yeast cells, including those from white wines, to achieve a similar effect.”

BILL TUCKER; CARLOS ALEJANDRO

The concept of a solitary winegrower tending vines and making wines is French in origin, but these pioneers have made the practice their own.


3. Jason Murray Arterra Wines Delaplane, VA “I have one other guy who helps me out in the vineyards and the winery,” says Murray, co-owner of Arterra Wines, with its eight-acre plot dedicated to mainly Tannat, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. “I can’t just tell him, ‘Go do what we did last year,’ because each year is different. So we work in the vineyard side-by-side until he understands what I want done. In the cellar, I personally do all the racking, stirring of lees and most other things.” Murray started Arterra with fruit purchased from nearby vineyards until his property became fruitful last year.

4. Anthony Vietri Va La Vineyards Avondale, PA Vietri may be the best Nebbiolo specialist outside of Piemonte. From a farming family, he is a prototypical vigneron. With the help of a lone assistant, he’s farmed about six acres of mainly Italian varieties since the 1990s, and today, Vietri makes four terroirspecific field-blend wines whose identity—varieties, rootstocks, clones, spacing, trellising—he’s been tweaking since he first began to make wine. Top sommeliers from Philadelphia will even drive to his Chester County vineyard to carry back wines for their lists. “I just like to stand in the rows staring at it,” he says. “It feels very right.”

5. James Lester Wyncrot Wines Pullman, MI For years, Lester tasted great Bordeaux wine, courtesy of a friend with a large cellar. He then decided to plant his own vineyard in the warmer climes of Lake Michigan’s east side, and made his first Cabernet Sauvignon in 1983. “I was dumbfounded how good it was,” says Lester. “I didn’t know anything about winemaking, so it had to be the terroir.” In the 35 years since, Lester has made many critically acclaimed wines from mainly Bordeaux varieties on a 14-acre plot he farms with his wife and one assistant. Lester realizes most people don’t believe Michigan can make quality European-style wines, but, as he says, “a vine doesn’t understand political boundaries.”


NATURAL CHARM

POP GOES THE NORTHEAST Winemakers in this corner of the country are embracing cold-hardy grapes and their ability to make delicious sparkling wines.

T

here’s a different kind of buzz—or rather, fizz— around American wine. This time, it’s coming out of the Northeast. Winemakers there are putting a new spin on lesser-known, cold-hardy grapes like La Crescent, Cayuga, Brianna and Marquette to create distinctive and delicious sparklers.

HISTORY AND HYBRIDS In New York’s Finger Lakes region, Winemaker Nathan Kendall and New York City Master Sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier have been making waves with Chëpìka, a line of bubblies using the oten frowned-upon Catawba and Delaware grapes. They were attracted by these varieties’ hardiness—and their history. “In the late 1800s, the Finger Lakes’ international reputation was built on sparkling wines made from those grapes,” says Kendall. BOLD TASTEMAKERS In Vermont, the critically acclaimed sparklers made by Deirdre Heekin at La Garagista are exported to Canada and Europe. In the same state, Shelburne Vineyards Winemaker Ethan Joseph has created a line called Iapetus that’s focused on producing natural wines. Cold-hardy bubbles make up half of the Iapetus range. Similar efforts by Brian Smith at Maine’s Oyster River Winegrowers have gained followers as far as Arizona and Washington State. These winemakers employ a sustainable, low-intervention approach and largely rely on a sparkling category known as pétillant naturel, or pét-nat. In that style, wines are bottled before the end of fermentation to produce the bubbles, as opposed to traditional method, which uses a second fermentation in bottle.

Heekin points out that effervescence of the wines matches the energetic acidity present in alpine varieties. “The high acidity, lower alcohol and flavor profiles, sometimes related to Muscat, lend themselves well to sparkling,” she says. Sparkling also avoids aromas known as “foxiness,” prevalent in cool climates. Kendall says that early harvest helps prevent it, while Heekin has found it less of an issue as her vines mature. But pét-nats avoid the problem altogether. The style is also fun and meant to be enjoyed young. The wines’ mineral character and crunchy texture provide a playful counterpoint to the aromatics that will appeal to all sorts of drinkers. —Rémy Charest

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

MARK KETT

THE CASE FOR PÉT-NAT


BOLD WINES. A REBELLIOUS TIME. 1924 – The heart of the prohibition era and the year our winery first planted vineyards in California. For those that dared to toil in the black-market of winemaking, full-bodied red wines were the wine of choice and a crowd favorite at speakeasies across the country.

Go for Bold ©2018 GNARLY HEAD WINES, MANTECA, CA – ALC 15.0% BY VOL


BED OF ROSÉS

BLEND OF GLORY Jon Bon Jovi, Jesse Bongiovi and Gérard Bertrand talk music, friendship and crafting the perfect rosé.

Gérard, Jesse…Jon? Bon Jovi? Jon Bon Jovi? What do I call you?

Jon: Just one long word…JonBonJovi. [laughs] Jon would be nice. So, Jon, have you always been into wine?

Jon: As a consumer, yes. It’s my beverage of choice. Never imagined we’d someday be in the wine business, but it’s really all I drink. I don’t drink any hard alcohol.

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

Not even beer? Has it always been that way?

were first introduced to wine, or did you

Jon: Many, many years. Many, many, many years. Unless you’re at a Yankees game eating a hot dog…so it’s very rare. But I’m a wine enthusiast.

have an introduction prior to your pink juice

Can you remember your first a-ha wine moment?

Jon: Oh my goodness, probably discovering Italian reds in my youth. You know, pretending to be cultured. Anything more than a twist-of cap in my youth was considered cultured. But with time, age and experience, I’ve been fortunate enough to travel most of the world, and so whether it was the South of France or Italy, Australia, Africa, there’s great wines all over the world. So I’ve had the opportunity to taste quite a few.

days in the Hamptons?

Jesse: No, that was really my introduction. I mean, I’m only 23 years old, so there’s not quite the long, many years of drinking wine for me. But, you know, most of the wine that I have enjoyed has been rosé, and that was really kind of my irst stepping stone into the wine world. It’s always just been something that we’ve had around and, like my dad said, there’s always been wine around the house, but yeah, rosé was very much my introduction into it and then now, spending time with Gérard, getting a lot more of an education on the little details that go into it, has been absolutely amazing. Jon, how did the initial connection with Gérard take place?

Jesse, you and your dad started exploring this brand idea ater drinking what you called lots of “pink juice.” Is that how you

Jon: Like I said, we were consumers, and we enjoyed his wine. Cote des Roses, for example, was the rosé of choice in East

DAVID FRITZ GOEPPINGER

F

orget Bad Medicine—the iconic rock star and his son have teamed up with renowned French winemaker Gérard Bertrand to create summer’s new go-to rosé: Diving Into Hampton Water. The South of France meets the South Fork in this Languedoc sip made from Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah. We spoke with the trio about their passion project and livin’ on a rosé prayer. —Lauren Buzzeo


Hampton. And, through a mutual friend, we were introduced to Gérard. I was introduced to him over the telephone. I pitched him our thoughts, and he said I like the idea, if I like you guys as much as I like the idea, I can either produce it or import it or partner; let’s see where our relationship goes. And so, we began a relationship and Jesse went over to Languedoc and then a couple of months later I was able to go over to Languedoc and we talked constantly in the last eight, nine, 10 months over the phone, the computer, and then I went over with my wife and our wives, you know, our families all hung out together, and we got to this place. When you spent the time together and you got to know each other, did you know sort of immediately that this was going to work?

Jon: Without putting words in their mouths, I think that the truth is, yeah, because we loved what Gérard’s catalogue of wines were, and I think that he reacted to our concept. And then, he was also willing to educate us, so this blend was done by the three of us in his blending room, like literally with the eyedropper and the test tube, so this isn’t a white label that he had in some back room. We really put a lot of passion into creating this blend, so we could be proud of it. This isn’t a celebrity vanity project. I think that’s an important distinction. What was that experience like for you? The

For the full interview, visit winemag.com/hamptonwater

Jon: It’s not dissimilar from making a record. Because, you know, there’s the instrumentation—when I’m in the studio mixing, the diference between turning something up one dB or not could change the entire feel of the record. So as we got closer and closer to the blend, and then Gérard said nope, wait just a second, literally took an eyedropper and it was a couple more drops of this and a couple more drops of that, that was the nuance

“We really put a lot of passion into creating this blend, so we could be proud of it. This isn’t a celebrity vanity project.” —Jon Bon Jovi

blending trials, the tastings, I know it’s a lot.

Jesse: Yeah, I mean, one, it was incredibly educational. Normally when we try wines, we go, oh!, and there it is. But literally, we walked into the room and there was 20 bottles laid out with all diferent grapes and from different places, and to have Gérard say, okay, take a sip of this one and now your mouth is gonna salivate, and you go, yeah, it did! Take a sip of this one and there’s a little bit of this spice... And to really go through that and to see not only the passion that goes into it, but the science that goes into it, and the exact surgical measurements that go into it, I think it was really educational to us and it was amazing to see him at work. It was incredibly enlightening.

that [was like] when I’m in the studio, putting a little more high-end on the cymbals. And that’s when we all walk away, when you say, There’s the record. There was the one. Gérard, as a winemaker, what did you endeavor to express in the bottle to symbolize the harmony between music and wine?

Gérard: For me irst, as Jon mentioned, it was important to meet the man behind the culture and the music and song. We like to make and to create new products, but when you create a partnership, especially for wine, you need to develop a friendship before. Wine is, my father taught me, 1,001 details, and of course, we have a culture of

excellence, so we didn’t want to create just a rosé because we don’t care and I don’t care for that. We don’t need endorsement. What we do need is to create friendship and to have a long-term vision about this project... And then, also, it was important for me to understand their expectations, and we agreed to make a superpremium rosé. That means a rosé that we could drink all day but also a rosé that would it perfectly with food… I want to see them very proud about the wine, because they put their heart and their soul into this project and I have done the same. Do you find parallels between the Hamptons and the beaches of Narbonne?

Gérard: Yes. I think you have many places in the Hamptons, especially one called Surf Lodge, and when I go there, I feel like I am in Roussillon facing the Méditerranée. Because of course, we can feel the same experience, especially for the sunset, we have a beautiful sunset and in the Hamptons, it’s the same. At the end of the day, people who come to the South of France, they understand the culture and the lifestyle, and when I was for the irst time in the Hamptons, I recognized it. The people are peaceful, happy, which is important, especially in this world. Will Diving into Hampton Water be the oicial rosé of the This House is Not For Sale tour?

Jon: Yes it will! And I know a place where you can get it—my dressing room!

WINEMAG.COM | 25


ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE

TONIC RELIEF Old school quinine is enlivened by fresh flavor additions that bring new life to the bitter mixer.

A

product of the South American Cinchona calisaya tree, quinine’s use as a preventive medicine has helped Europeans fight malaria since the 1400s. What began as a worldaltering remedy, however, was turned into a commercialized, carbonated drink by 1858—the naturally occurring compound is the key component to tonic water’s bitter taste. While quinine’s concentration in today’s versions is no longer medicinal, its lavor remains essential. Sadly, the beverage became a cloying parody of itself in the 20th century, relying on synthetic quinine and artificial sugars. But the real stuff is back, now boosted by botanicals and other natural additives, and izzing in a drink near you. Here’s a look at some of the enhancements that complement the quinine and bubbles in modern tonics. —Anne Krebiehl, MW

SWEETENERS “Quinine by itself is extremely bitter,” says Lonnie Kahoe, sales analyst for Q Drinks, so tonics depend on a carefully calibrated sweetness to counteract its taste. Though many premium versions incorporate the fuller mouthfeel of cane sugars, Q Drinks utilizes the “gently rounded sweetness” of agave for its signature Q Tonic, which is made with quinine from Peru. “It gives a cleaner, earthy flavor that pairs well with botanical gins in a way that sugar doesn’t,” says Kahoe.

BOTANICALS Gentle botanicals like elderflower and lemongrass lend additional depth, while some are more surprising. Myrtle and hyssop detract from bitterness in Fentimans Botanical Tonic Water, while marigold “brings a creamy, floral note” to Fever-Tree’s Indian variety. Also look for bottlings flavored with cardamom, ginger and rosemary.

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

SANG AN

CITRUS Aromatic tang from citrus zest is also a good complement to quinine. “Bitter orange provides zesty, fresh and sweet notes,” says Tim Warrillow, co-founder of Fever-Tree, a drink company that’s also striving to revive tonic waters. The company sources fruit from Mexico and lemon thyme from Provence. Another brand, Fentimans Botanically Brewed Beverages, uses oranges from the Mediterranean coast and ruby red grapefruit from the U.S.


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Are 107ยบF days necessary to create wine ideally served at 55ยบ? The hot days and cold nights in Paso Robles create the perfect storm for growing exceptional grapes, which translates to extraordinary wines. Exceptional from every angle.


BOTANIC CULT

The center of the country looks close to home to make distinctive, game-changing gins.

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Journeyman Distillery

Death’s Door Spirits

Prairie Organic Spirits

Letherbee Distillers

Thinking beyond the botanical characteristics of most gins is at the heart of this Michigan distiller’s Bilberry Black Hearts Barrell-Aged Gin. Juniper, anise, bitter orange and bilberry are some highlights of this spirit, which is aged in white oak barrels. Beyond the acidic and sometimes bitter flavor of the bilberry, the gin’s unequivocal taste and aroma are due to its 100% organic wheat base and the unfiltered water sourced from an underground aquifer in nearby Three Oaks.

Paying homage to the Death’s Door passage that separates Washington Island from Door County, Wisconsin, Death’s Door takes its cues from the state’s agricultural output. Although the trinity of botanicals—juniper, fennel and coriander—may seem typical, its distilling process involves a combination of local red winter wheat, malted barley and corn. The result is a distinctive flavor and body to stand up to rich, savory foods.

Prairie produces one the few organic gins on the market, made from yellow corn grown and harvested on family farms in Minnesota. Their gin plays upon juniper, cassia and sage, while holding back on the traditional coriander and angelica provides a drier zing and smooth finish. The grain of choice gives it a backbone that’s perfect with tonic water and lime or a bit of muddled lemon.

This cult-favorite Chicago distiller offers a medley of 11 botanicals (juniper, cubeb berries, orange, lemon peel and more) that impart a clean, full-bodied taste to every batch. Its seasonal bottlings, Vernal and Autumnal, epitomize the distiller’s commitment to experimentation and creativity. What’s the special touch? “The seasonal gins change every year, but we always make sure to use a generous amount of unicorn blood in each batch,” says spokesperson Heather Do.

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MEG BAGGOTT

HOW THE MIDWEST WAS WON

ondon, beware: Midwestern distilleries are cementing their place in gin circles with new and distinctive approaches. Here are a select few, a quartet-sized sampling, of the Middle American operations that are mixing things up with botanicals that shine a light on the region’s terroir. —Nneka M. Okona


PARED-DOWN PAIRING

THE BERRY BEST You know them, you love them, it’s time to learn how to pair them.

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epending where you live, summer might start with the first strawberries of June and end around Labor Day, with coffee cans full of wild blackberries. In between, berries of the blue-, rasp-, huckle-, thimble-, boysen-, Marion- and logan- persuasions find their way into almost every meal, from light breakfasts to savory salads and sweet shortcakes. —Nils Bernstein

The study of blackberries is called batology.

Raspberries can be white, gold, orange, purple or black.

The average American eats about 8 pounds of strawberries per year.

There’s a strawberry museum in Belgium called Musée de la Fraise.

Almost one-quarter of the world’s raspberries are grown in Russia.

Early American settlers made gray paint by boiling blueberries in milk.

Of the common “berries,” only blueberries and cranberries are “true berries.” Strawberries, raspberries and blackberries are “aggregate fruits.”

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TOM ARENA

Christ’s crown of thorns is theorized by some to have been made of blackberry runners.


“Some of the sweetest berries grow among the sharpest thorns.” —Gaelic proverb

PAIR IT Myles Burroughs, beverage director for The Derschang Group of restaurants in Seattle, has a go-to for berries in sweet situations. “For any berry desserts, try Casalone Mariposa Brachetto,” he says, “Not too sweet, slightly effervescent, with delicate rose and ripe red- and black-fruit flavors.” For more savory berry-based dishes, he suggests pairing with wines that exhibit the same character. RASPBERRIES “Nero d’Avola is often associated with dark-skinned fruit, but those from Arianna Occhipinti, like her Occhipinti Siccagno Nero d’Avola, exude a wild, fresh-crushed raspberry character,” says Burroughs. “All Gamays can show raspberry flavors, but with raspberry dishes, I often reach for a sparkling Gamay rosé like Domaine Jousset Éxilé Rosé Pétillant. It has minerality and acidity along with plenty of fresh raspberry and strawberries on the palate.” STRAWBERRIES Burroughs looks to Tuscany for wines with strawberry notes. “Laura di Collobiano’s Tenuta di Valgiano Palistorti Rosso blends Sangiovese with Merlot and Syrah to produce intensely fruity aromas. Ribolla Gialla from Friuli produces light, floral wines with nice acidity. I Clivi RBL Brut Nature is a wonderfully clean sparkling wine with a dry, precise lemon-custard taste that beautifully complements strawberries.” BLUEBERRIES “Malbec from Cahors has a much different character than its brasher Argentinian counterpart. Clos Siguier Les Camille Vieilles Vignes is a light and fruity wine, elegant and structured, owing to the concentration of limestone in the soil,” says Burroughs. “Pinot Meunier does its heavy lifting as one of the…varieties in Champagne production. A 100% Meunier Champagne like Piot-Sévillano Provocante blends indulgent, plush ripe-fruit flavors with all the finesse expected from Champagne.” BLACKBERRIES “Cabernet Franc from Chinon strongly reflects the soils on which it’s planted. Domaine Grosbois Clos du Noyer owes some of its finesse to its sandy clay soil,” Burroughs says, noting the wine shows powerful blackberry, as well as red and black currants and leather. “The Cru Beaujolais of Chénas hasn’t received as much credit as they deserve. Domaine Paul-Henri Thillardon Les Boccards has some of the muscle of neighboring Moulin-a-Vent, but with restrained elegance and luscious black fruit.”

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WHEEL LOVE

A VINOUS CYCLE Bicycles are best for exploring the Southern California wine region of Temecula.

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ith gently rolling hills, a dry, warm climate and grapevines as far as the eye can see, the Temecula Valley can look a lot like Tuscany. But unlike the Italian countryside, this Southern California region is jam-packed with tasting rooms. Cycling, on your own or with a tour, can be the most eye-opening way to discover the area, where more than 30 wineries and about 1,300 acres of vineyards attract an excess of 2 million visitors each year. —Matt Kettmann

WHEN TO GO: Year-round, except when it’s blisteringly hot in the dead of summer or during rare rainstorms. WHAT IT COSTS: For a $65 rental fee, Pedal to the Medal’s fully equipped, fat-tired Cannondale bike comes with helmet, handlebar bag, lock, cold drink, snack, map and route suggestions. It’s yours from 10 am–6 pm, and the outfitter can come pick up the bike from wherever you end up with one quick call.

FOR A LONG HAUL Follow the advice of Eric Tallaksen, owner of Pedal to the Medal, and head down to Monte de Oro and neighboring Wilson Creek, then ride over to Lorenzi Estate, Cougar and more. Back track a bit so you can end your day with the dirt downhill along Camino del Vino road on the way to Robert Renzoni and Leoness Cellars. Both offer great food alongside the region’s better wines.

REV YOUR ENGINE: If this all sounds overwhelming, opt for a guided tour from Temecula Electric Bikes. The pedal-free operation offers a twohour scenic tour ($49) and a four-hour tasting tour ($79), as well as selfguided e-bike rental options.

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ILLUSTRATION: BRIAN A. CLARK

TO TAKE IT EASY For an easy three-hour trek, start at South Coast Winery Resort & Spa (where you should try the bubbly). From there, drop down the main road to experience Avensole Winery and its refreshing Sauvignon Blanc. Cruise through the vineyard to check out Maurice Car’rie Winery, one of the region’s oldest operations, with vines that go back to the late 1960s. Its Van Roekel Estate wines, especially the Grenache and the Petite Sirah, are great with the famous baked Brie in sourdough loaf, a gooey mess of rich cheese and bread that’s ample reward for the exercise.


© 2018 Hahn Family Wines

Premier Estate Vineyards. Renowned Santa Lucia Highlands appellation. Recognized quality.

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Visit our Estate 37700 Foothill Road Soledad, CA 93960


RECIPE OF THE MONTH

JUST PEACHY Simple grilled chicken gussies up for summer with seasonal fruit and aged Gouda.

At

his namesake restaurant, James Beard Award winner Greg Vernick celebrates the diversity of the American larder with bold and innovative flavor combinations. This dish, which showcases a range of tastes, textures and temperatures, comes together in minutes with a little advance prep. —Nils Bernstein

GRILLED CHICKEN PAILLARD WITH PEACH, OLIVE AND AGED GOUDA Courtesy Greg Vernick, chef/owner, Vernick Food & Drink, Philadelphia 1

tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for pan and grill

1

small onion, thin-sliced

¹/8

teaspoon salt

12

ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast

1

ripe peach or nectarine, halved and pitted

1

tablespoon red wine vinegar

1

teaspoon honey

½

cup pitted Castelvetrano olives (or other green olives), coarse-chopped

2

ounces aged Gouda, crumbled

Coat medium, nonstick pan with olive oil and warm over medium-low heat. Add onion and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until medium-brown, about 30 minutes. Set aside. Onions may be prepared up to 3 days in advance and stored in refrigerator. Slice chicken breasts in half horizontally. Using meat mallet or rolling pin, tenderize chicken between plastic wrap until very thin, at most ¹⁄8-inch. Salt each side lightly. Set aside. Heat grill on high, and brush grates with olive oil. Place peach or nectarine halves on grill, cut-side down, and cook about 2 minutes. Let cool, then cut each half into 4 slices. Set aside. Add chicken to grill. Grill for 1 minute on each side, or until cooked through. Set aside. In large bowl, whisk vinegar, 1 tablespoon olive oil and honey. Add onions, peaches and arugula, and toss to coat. Arrange chicken on 2 plates and top each with salad, olives and Gouda. Serves 2.

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WINE PAIRING Radikon 2015 S Pinot Grigio (Venezia-Giulia) “With lots of skin contact, this wine drinks like a rich rosé,” says Ray Gazdzinski, wine director at Vernick Food & Drink. “It has gentle, tea-like tannins and red berry fruit. It’s rich, but bright and really food-friendly.”

SANG AN; FOOD STYLIING: JERRIE-JOY REDMAN-LLOYD; PLATE BY GOOD CONNECTION

1½ cups packed baby arugula


WINE ENTHUSIAST

94 POINTS

Enjoy the big, bold, & rich flavors of Paso Robles with friends.

Wine Enthusiast top 100 wines of the year Award-winning wines from The Riboli Family. Enjoy Responsibly.


LET’S GO-A LISBOA

destination

LISBON

This history-rich Portuguese city has all the makings of a memorable getaway filled with culture, seafood and plenty of castles.

The popularity of Portugal’s capital has grown exponentially of late, thanks in part to affordable prices and easy access from the U.S.—there’s even a free stopover program offered by TAP Airlines. It’s easy to fall in love with Lisbon’s candy-colored buildings and cobblestone streets, not to mention its world-class restaurants and amazing wine. —Brooke Porter Katz

4

shop hour getaway

The town of Sintra is only 20 miles from Lisbon, but its mountaintop location and Romanticist castles can make it feel worlds away. It’s worth the drive to hike up to the Pena Palace (above) and the Castle of the Moors. Monserrate Palace, the garden-filled summer estate of British merchant Francis Cook and his family, is also a pretty place to wander. When it comes time to eat, head to the Tivoli Palácio  de  Seteais, a hotel that’s straight out of a fairytale. Grab a seat on the terrace for views that stretch all the way to the ocean.

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here’s no shortage of boutiques that sell local crafts and clothes. Embaixada, a former Arabian palace in the Príncipe Real neighborhood, houses 19 businesses under one roof. Pick up a gorgeous leather handbag from Muu, or order a bespoke suit and shirt at UOY. About a 10-minute walk away, ICON Life & Style (left) carries 30-plus Portuguese brands that offer everything from jewelry and art to handmade shoes. Don’t leave without buying hand-painted azulejos (tiles), which often come in blue-andwhite floral patterns. Sant’Anna is the most storied manufacturer in town, in business since 1741.

T


see isbon is a city best discovered on foot, though tread carefully on its cobblestones, which can be slippery. Skip the tram and walk up the winding streets of the historic Alfama area to the medieval São Jorge Castle. There, you can soak in some of the best views of the city. In Belém, about a 20-minute drive west from downtown, there’s a contrasting mix of old and new. Check out the waterfront Belém Tower, built in the early 1500s, and the modern Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology (shown here), which opened in 2016. The futuristic exterior of the cultural center is covered in white ceramic tiles. Inside, there’s an impressive collection of works by Portuguese artists.

L

eat ou can’t come to Lisbon and not experience Chef José Avillez’s mini-empire of restaurants. His newest, Bairro do Avillez, in the Chiado neighborhood, is made up of multiple venues, like the bright, airy Páteo (where it’s all about the seafood) dinnerand-cabaret spot Beco and casual Taberna (above). A few blocks away is Belcanto, his Michelinstarred crown jewel. Reserve a table to sample his modern takes on Portuguese cuisine, including grilled red giant shrimp with rosemary ashes and suckling pig. For dessert, head to nearby Manteigaria, an iconic bakery known for one thing: pastéis de nata, delicious, silky egg tarts. Over in the Príncipe Real district, A Cevicheria serves up its namesake Peruvian dish underneath a giant, Instagram-ready Styrofoam octopus. Don’t miss the ceviche “puro,” made with white fish, puréed sweet potato, onions, algae and leche de tigre (a citrusbased marinade).

MEG BAGGOTT; PAULO BARATA; FG+FS/EDP FOUNDATION; KENTON THATCHER; TERESA AIRES

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drink he main reason to visit the Alcântara neighborhood is to check out the buzzy LXFactory, a former industrial site that’s now home to a slew of restaurants, shops, creative agencies, art galleries and more. It’s where you’ll find Rio Maravilha (left), a colorful spot with a rooftop ideal for sunset cocktails. At tucked-away wine bar Enoteca de Belém, Sommelier Nelson Guerreiro can lead you through a menu of local bottles that includes Vinho Verde and Port. If gin is your thing, head to the aptly named Gin Lovers & LESS, in the aforementioned Embaixada, for—what else?—a gin and tonic.

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WINEMAG.COM | 37


COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

RHUBARB MEETS RYE If you thought whiskey was just for winter, think again.

At

Chicago’s Longman & Eagle, the staff sports t-shirts that read “Eat Sleep Whiskey.” They’re a nod to the tavern’s Michelin-starred food and drink menus, as well as its six inn-style rooms directly overhead. But it’s also the house philosophy. This gastropub is all about the brown stuff, hosting “Whiskey Wednesdays” and newrelease launch parties. The drink menu changes with each season, so “spring whiskey” and “summer whiskey” cocktails appear as the days grow longer, including this rhubarb-spiked libation, ideal for when the rosy stalks appear at the greenmarket. —Kara Newman

THE WAY OF THINGS

1½ ounces Jim Beam Rye or other rye whiskey 1½ ounces rhubarb syrup* ¾

ounce lime juice

3 Floyds Brewing Co. Gumballhead or other hoppy wheat ale, to top Rhubarb peel (for garnish)

In cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine rye, rhubarb syrup and lime juice. Shake well, and double-strain into Pilsner glass. Top with beer. Garnish with thin spiral of rhubarb peel. Insert straw in middle of spiral.

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

* RHUBARB SYRUP Combine 1 cup fine-chopped rhubarb, 1 cup water and 1 cup sugar in pot. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain through fine mesh, and discard solids. Pour syrup into lidded container. Refrigerated, it will keep up to 2 weeks. Note: Try leftover rhubarb syrup mixed with sparkling wine for a rhubarb Bellini, or splashed into soda water with a squeeze of lime.

MEG BAGGOTT

Courtesy Chad Hauge, beverage director, Longman & Eagle, Chicago


MADE IN CALIFORNIA? How to uncover excellent wines that carry the murky statewide appellation. compounds in the grapes to create classically his issue, largely devoted to styled and well-balanced dry wines. coverage of California wine, is To shop for wines with great quality in the a good place to review what the premium price range, you don’t have to avoid word “California” means on a the California AVA altogether, but be smart bottle. Spoiler alert: It doesn’t about it. Understand that some excellent necessarily mean much. wines are blended from good-quality coastal California can be used as an oicial statewide and mountain regions and must be labeled appellation or American Viticultural Area “California” because there’s no other legal term (AVA), a U.S.-government-regulated term that for their mix. A few wineries now simply state indicates where the grapes in that bottle (or each county source on the label, like Verada box or can) were grown. As an AVA on a wine’s Pinot Noir, which lists Monterey, Sonoma and label, “California” means the grapes were Santa Barbara counties. almost certainly sourced from multiple counties When you do grab a throughout the state— California AVA wine, it’s it’s the lowest common Some excellent wines are always safe to stick with one denominator of AVAs. blended from good-quality that has an above-average “California” oten, but coastal and mountain track record for quality. by no means always, also regions and must be Producers like Kendallmeans the grapes were Jackson, Mirassou, Bogle, sourced from some of the labeled “California” Bonterra, Korbel and Geyser lower-quality, lower-priced because there’s no other Peak are safe bets, just to vineyards in the state. If legal term for their mix. name a few. they didn’t come from But you don’t have to these places, most wineries limit yourself to these legacy brands. Be sure would put the name of a smaller, higher-quality, to check the Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide at higher-priced growing district on the label. This winemag.com/ratings for reviews from this could be a multiple-county AVA like Central category, because we’re constantly combing Coast, a speciic AVA like Napa Valley or a subthe state for new discoveries, too. In the past 12 AVA such as Sta. Rita Hills. months, my colleagues and I have blind-tasted That’s not to say that grape growers in the about 450 California AVA wines. Around a sixth San Joaquin River Valley, where more than of those scored 90-plus, and nearly a third of 40% of the state’s wine grapes grow, are bad them garnered a Best Buy designation. For savvy at their jobs. Most just don’t have the climate customers, this legal AVA is hiding nothing and terrain necessary to preserve good acidity except how good they are. and build enough healthy tannins and lavor

T

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

THE CASE FOR CALIFORNIA These three bottles make a forceful argument that California AVA wines can have personality and excitement, and they’re priced right for stocking up by the case. Verada 2016 Tri-County Pinot Noir (Monterey County-Sonoma County-Santa Barbara County) $18. This snappy yet expressive wine has toasted oak, cranberry and black tea aromas, and flavors centered around black cherry.

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Alexander Valley Vineyards 2014 Temptation Zinfandel (California); $14. Intriguing black-pepper aromas and beefy, lightly smoky flavors are backed by plenty of blackberry flavor. Best Buy. Pine Ridge 2016 Chenin Blanc-Viognier (California) $16. Light in body, piny green-apple aromas meet vivid apple and lime flavors that whet the appetite.

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Contributing Editor Jim Gordon is based in Napa Valley, and his tasting territories are spread throughout Northern California. He sometimes feels unproductive kissing a lot of frogs, but says the occasional princess makes it worthwhile.


©2018 J VINEYARDS & WINERY, HEALDSBURG, CA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED


ACID TRIP We search for high-acid Chardonnay along the Sonoma Coast.

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BY

VIRGINIE BOONE

A

mong the redwood forests and golden hillsides surrounding vineyards along Sonoma’s coastal range are sites that produce a new style of California Chardonnay, one driven by freshness and acidity. These are wines that may bedevil those who love to hate on California Chardonnay for their often bold and occasionally over-opulent character. If Cabernet is king, then Chardonnay is queen—and she’s in command in California. In 2017, it remained the state’s most crushed variety, accounting for 14.5% of the total volume of California grapes pressed. And it comes in a broad range of styles, prices and levels of sweetness to appeal to a wide variety of palates. But that’s not what we’re talking about here. Instead, the focus is on wines of freshness and precision from distinct coastal locations in Sonoma that allow grapes to both ripen and retain their natural acidity. These coastal areas best express this style, yielding wines with complexities of earthy mineral and brine that are strikingly set against a ripe-fruit backdrop. Behind this acid-driven movement are growers and winemakers who treat Chardonnay with the same respect given to Pinot Noir grown in these areas for many years. They harvest while sugars are relatively low and acidity is high, and they exhibit a renewed focus on the importance of site. To those who say no to Chardonnay from the Golden State, prepare to be amazed. These three coastal areas are the ones to seek.

WINEMAG.COM | 43


Fort Ross-Seaview Established in 2012, the 27,500-acre Fort Ross-Seaview appellation was the first successful carving-out of the larger 517,000acre Sonoma Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA). It’s a remote, wooded and mountainous region known for extreme farming, low yields and, when Northern California isn’t mired in drought, wet winters. Above the fog, on a solid elevation line set at 920 feet, and situated north of Jenner, the appellation overlooks the onceRussian outpost of Fort Ross. It’s centered along Meyers Grade Road, which juts of the serpentine curves of Highway One. Vineyards make up a tiny percentage for the total land, around 550 acres. Elevations can rise to 1,800 feet. That height is key, as it allows grapes sunlight and warmth. There’s wild variability in slope, aspect and soils. The appellation’s most prominent brands include Flowers Vineyard & Winery, Hirsch Vineyards, Marcassin, Martinelli Winery & Vineyards, Peter Michael Winery and Wayfarer. Many small producers buy grapes from the appellation.

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Winemaker Jamie Kutch, of Kutch Wines, sources Chardonnay from George and Nikki Bohan. The fourth-generation Fort RossSeaview farmers look ater 1,100 acres just three miles from the ocean at 1,400 feet above sea level.

“There’s an opportunity in Chardonnay to provide the consumer with a diferent lavor expression of the grape, and there’s a great acceptance of the style,” says Kutch. “There’s a sub-niche group searching for acid-driven Chard.” Kutch produces wines with a focus on acidity, freshness and lean fruit characteristics. One of his sources, Bohan Vineyard, which is dry-farmed, has some

of the oldest plantings on the coast, dating back to the early 1970s. “Bohan is much warmer than people think, being above the fog,” he says. “It’s a ridge in [from the Paciic Ocean] and gets plenty of sun during the growing season. This means I can pick the fruit early when there’s still acidity and get phenolic ripeness, when the berries are very full and healthy.” Mike Sullivan, co-owner/winemaker of Benovia Winery, makes Three Sisters Chardonnay from a Fort Ross-Seaview site at 1,000 feet. The vineyard gets more hours of sunlight during peak growing season than those in Russian River Valley, where Benovia is based. “I started working with the Chardonnay from Fort Ross-Seaview back in the late 1990s, and I love Chardonnays from this AVA,” says Sullivan. “The combination of climate, elevation and soil type—there’s lots of shale at Three Sisters—is distinctive in Sonoma County. It produces Chardonnay fruit with high natural acidity, vibrant lavors and thick skins. They age very slowly.”


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Petaluma Gap Approved as an AVA in December 2017, the Petaluma Gap is centered around the town of Petaluma, about 30 miles north of San Francisco. The appellation also incorporates a portion of neighboring Marin County. It’s deined by substantial cooling winds that funnel with force through a 15-mile opening (gap) in the coastal mountain range that otherwise shelters much of Sonoma County from the ferocious ocean. Ana Keller, estate director of Keller Estate, one of the few wineries in the actual gap, likes to say that many regions in Sonoma County have fog, but Petaluma Gap owns the wind. The AVA is home to about 4,000 acres of grapes, which are dominated by Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Long populated more by growers than wineries, its fruit goes to an impressive selection of producers throughout the region, including Black Kite Cellars, Blue Farm Wines, Kosta Browne Winery and Ramey Wine Cellars. “During the growing season, the cold air from the Paciic Ocean rushes in through the Gap around 3 pm every day,” says Rickey

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Black Kite 2015 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Beautifully oaky and unctuously voluptuous, this is richly layered in tones of butterscotch and brioche. Its length and breadth are punctuated by sharp teases of wild fennel and nutmeg. abv: 14.6% Price: $58

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Trombetta Stanclif, the owner of Trombetta Family Wines and president of Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance. She fought tirelessly for the area to become an official appellation. “The winds have been measured at a fairly constant eight miles an hour. What this does is slow the plant down by closing

“The weather is very cool, which helps preserve acidity, but I think the soil holds the key.” —Gavin Chanin the stomas on the leaves, thus the ripening takes a longer time. The grape skins are thicker and the bunches and berries smaller, resulting in more concentration of lavors and a bit more tannin,” she says. Gavin Chanin, winemaker for Lutum Wines, sources Chardonnay from Gap’s Crown Vineyard. One of the best-known sites in the appellation, it slopes in eleva-

Blue Farm 2014 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Bright and refreshing acidity is the star of this lovely, windswept wine. It’s powerful, yet integrated in tannin and oak. Racy, feral notes of anise, apple blossom and nutmeg are complemented by a teasing, voluptuous spirit. abv: 14.1% Price: $55

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Pellet Estate 2014 Sunchase Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is another stunner from Pellet Estate, from a high-elevation vineyard inluenced by fog and wind. A wet stone note and crisp, lemony acidity suggest freshness that doesn’t detract from the body or texture. abv: 14.6% Price: $68

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tion from 300 to 800 feet and is famous for its Pinot Noir. “I am partial to the small amount of Chardonnay planted there,” says Chanin. “The weather is very cool, which helps preserve acidity, but I think the soil holds the key. There is very heavy clay mixed with tons of rock. This is somewhat unique for the sites I work with. I think the mixture of clay and rock gives you richness from the clay and minerality and freshness from the rock deposits.” Like many cool spots in California, Chanin says that if you wait long enough, it’s possible to make a ripe wine that’s devoid of acid. That means it’s key to harvest before the grapes start to dry out, at an optimal ripeness that would result in 12.5% to 13.5% potential alcohol. “I never add acid, so all that freshness is natural,” says Chanin. “The wine also [goes] through 100% malolactic fermentation, so again, picking at the perfect time cannot be stressed enough. This is the hardest and most important aspect to get right during harvest.”

Lutum 2015 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). A shy, loral nose emanates subtly from this lightly built, elegant expression. Anise, sea salt and preserved lemon lavors form its foundation, while subtle oak and tense acidity provide support. abv: 13% Price: $50

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Trombetta 2015 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Richly oaked and voluptuous, this balanced wine shows hints of brioche and tofee, complemented by Pink Lady apple and pear compote. Supporting acidity steals the show, never allowing the concentration to overwhelm. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

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West Sonoma Coast The West Sonoma Coast, also referred to as The True Sonoma Coast, is not yet an official appellation. Instead, it’s a grouping of like wines from producers that seek to diferentiate their bottlings from the more unwieldy 750-square-mile Sonoma Coast appellation. The region zeroes in on the far western coastline of Sonoma County. It ranges from near Gualala, just north of Annapolis and close to the Mendocino border, down along Highway One through Fort Ross-Seaview and Jenner, where the Russian River ends. It includes the slightly inland coastal-inluenced towns of Occidental and Freestone, and it tends to be lower in elevation than Fort Ross-Seaview. The bulk of the vineyards sit between ive and 12 miles from the ocean, along a band of coastal ridges, mostly above the fog. A cool, dry and long growing season marked by a maritime climate is the norm. It allows grapes to develop intense lavor and retain acidity without having to accumulate high sugars. Tension in the wines is a recurrent theme, and they’re oten earthy, spicy and well balanced. That’s long been the case at Seascape Vineyard, a remote site farmed by Hartford

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Hartford Court 2015 Seascape Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Exposed to the coast, this crisp white is racy, with lavors of salty pretzel and apple skin. It ofers impressive weight and viscosity interwoven with juicy acidity, which allows it to stay fresh and focused. Fresh-squeezed lemon shows on the nose and palate, with a touch of brine and supportive oak. abv: 14.1% Price: $70

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Family Winery. Set on a panoramic ridgetop west of Occidental, it faces the Paciic and Bodega Bay. At about 1,000 feet in elevation and quite exposed, it’s near another wellknown site, Coastlands Vineyard. “The weight and viscosity you get, mixed with the level of acidity, is mindblowing,” says President Don Hartford of

“The purity of the fruit lets the nuance of minerality show through, and to get amazing fruit, you have to have certain acids.” —Heidi Bridenhagen the Chardonnay that his winemaker, Jef Stewart, produces from the site. Hartford Family Winery also farms the Far Coast Vineyard located just south of Annapolis, a 900- to 1,200-foot-high site about four miles in from the ocean. That’s close to where Heidi Bridenhagen, winemaker for MacRostie Winery & Vineyards, sources Chardonnay from Goldrock Ridge Vineyard, a remote site purchased by

Ramey 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This combines grapes from the Martinelli family’s Charles Ranch Vineyard in Fort Ross-Seaview with grapes from Platt Vineyard, a site that overlooks the Paciic Ocean near Freestone, the producer’s coolest-climate site. It melds exotic ginger with apple skin, melon rind and bright, focused acidity. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $42

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Joseph Phelps 2016 Freestone Vineyards Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Year ater year, this wine from this spectacular cool-climate site impresses. Crisp notions of green apple are followed by high-toned acidity etched in Meyer lemon and Key lime lavors. The fresh, fruity core is given a grip of oak on the inish. abv: 14.1% Price: $60

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vintner Paul Hobbs in 2016. The plot is a few miles from the ocean within a cool inversion layer, and its Goldridge sandy loam soils are rich with the debris of oysters and seashells. Bridenhagen describes her style of Chardonnay as having a strong acid backbone with clean, fruit-forward lavors. She wants her Chardonnay to provide nerve, ethereal aromatics and bracing acidity. “In California, we’re racing the sun,” says Bridenhagen. “We try to ind sites where we can use the ocean as a cooling inluence. The conditions give us more mineral-driven wines with great acid that doesn’t need to be manipulated. The sugars are low and the acids are high, so you get balanced Chardonnay right of the vine.” She describes the area’s fruit as tight and crisp, more green melon rind and white peach than juicy apple. There’s a briny quality that lends texture and lavor, which ofers complexity and depth. “The purity of the fruit lets the nuance of minerality show through, and to get amazing fruit aromatics, you have to have certain acids, and you’re never going to get that same complexity from adding it back,” she says.

Bohème 2014 English Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Juicy and generous on the palate, this coastal wine is grown from Wenteclone grapes inluenced greatly by their cool, foggy environment. The result shows a tightness of tension and acidity on the palate. Lemon peel and caramelized oak provide elegance and richness in equal measure. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

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MacRostie 2015 Goldrock Ridge Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is from an extreme coastal site high above the town of Annapolis, a study in ocean-driven minerality and lit. A small production, it ofers lengthy acidity and moderately toasty oak beneath a well of white peach, lemon and briny sea stone. abv: 14.5% Price: $46


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EuroCave is key for preserving wines such as Château d’Esclans Les Clans and Garrus, which are oak fermented and beneit from such a system.” – PATRICK LEON Consulting Oenologist

Patrick Leon has served as Sacha Lichine’s consulting oenologist at Chateau d’Esclans since the beginning (2006). Ten great vintages later, Leon has overseen Lichine’s vision to make this grand range of award winning rosés with tremendous precision. Patrick’s pedigree speaks volumes as a world-class winemaker including that of being Technical Manager & General Manager of Chateau Lascombes Grand Cru Classe in Margaux and Chateau Castera in Lesparre-Medoc. Subsequently working for over two decades at Barron Philippe Rothschild he ascended to becoming a Managing Director overseeing Technical winemaking facilities for Chateau Mouton Rothschild, d’Armailhac, Clerc Milon, le Petit Mouton in addition to Opus One in California and Almaviva in Chile (among others). Chateau d’Esclans’ state of the art wine making facilities were conceived & designed by Patrick and represent a unique and technologically advanced approach to making what is arguably the world’s greatest rose wines. And Patrick’s formidable background coupled with his profound knowledge makes him masterful at blending these fabulous wines which today have a stellar reputation and an enormous following.


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52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018


It’s worth the challenge to explore California’s Santa Lucia Highlands. BY

M AT T K E T T M A N N P H OTO S B Y

MICHAEL HOUSEWRIGHT

If

you look west from Highway 101 between Salinas and King City, the views of the Santa Lucia Highlands will captivate you. Rays of sunshine slice through a waning marine layer, and vineyards sprinkle the benchlands just above the Salinas River. They slip, slowly at irst, then precariously, toward the towering peaks of sharp, wild mountains that native son John Steinbeck called “dark and brooding, unfriendly and dangerous” in East of Eden. Though most of the predominantly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vines ride along the subtle shelf, you can see a few brave patches of vinifera perched like islands on their own ridges. But the views you’ll get gazing the other direction, from within the Santa Lucia Highlands and out over the Salinas Valley, are even more magical. The landscape crescendos down through the vines into the row-cropped latness known as the “Salad Bowl of the World,” then back up the smooth, hay-colored Gabilan Range and into the craggy peaks of Pinnacles National Park. Steinbeck thought better of those mountains. “You wanted to climb into their warm foothills almost as you want to climb into the lap of a beloved mother,” he wrote. WINEMAG.COM | 53


Unfortunately, not many people ever take in the latter vistas. Despite its reputation for lush, balanced wines, the Santa Lucia Highlands is home to only a handful of tasting rooms, and hospitality options in the surrounding area are almost nonexistent. This is partly due to the restrictions imposed by Monterey County, which strives to protect its agricultural heritage. It drives visitors into the nearby towns of Carmel-by-the-Sea and Carmel Valley, which boast hotel, restaurant and extracurricular options galore. It’s also pushed many of the region’s producers to open tasting rooms there. As a result, most people who come to taste the Santa Lucia Highlands never see the region itself, which is a shame. But as wine lovers grow more interested about where their wine comes from, the area seeks to establish itself as more than a day trip. Here are our top tips to get the most out of your Santa Lucia Highlands experience.

Highland Hospitality At the southern, sunnier end of the Santa Lucia Highlands, the spacious wooden deck that surrounds Paraiso Vineyard’s tasting room is an ideal place to begin exploration. Perfect for a picnic lunch, it overlooks the vineyards that its late founder, Rich Smith, irst planted in 1973. About 15 years later, Smith and his wife, Claudia, started making their own wine in hopes to improve the region’s quality. “My parents started this to support Monterey County,” says their son, Jason Smith. Ater Rich died of cancer in 2015, Jason hired experienced Central Coast winemaker Larry Brooks to re-focus the family’s brands, which include the higher-end Alexander-Smith wines. Try them in the tasting room, where Jason’s wife, Jennifer Murphy Smith, has been in charge for two decades. “Anything that looks nice is because of her,” he says. A similar perch awaits just a few minutes up River Road at Hahn Family Wines, where Nicolaus “Nicky” and Gabrielle Hahn staked their claim in the late 1970s. The winery now produces nationally known brands like Hahn, Smith & Hook and Lucienne. Opt for the “Elevated Wine Tasting,” which includes a food pairing, or let loose on the “Estate Vineyard ATV Adventure,” which sends you through the vines before you taste luxurylevel wines.

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PHOTO CREDIT

Clockwise from top let: Paraiso Vineyard; Wrath Wines Winemaker Sabrine Rodems; Wrath Wines; Odonata Wines; Odonata Winemaker Denis Hoey; Hahn Family Wines; Larry Brooks, Jason Smith, Jennifer Murphy Smith and Justin Murphy of Smith Family Wines

Down the hill, make a quick pilgrimage to the quaint Mission Soledad, founded in 1791, and then head back northbound on River Road. At Wrath Wines, Winemaker Sabrine Rodems crats single-vineyard and clonal expressions of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, Grenache and Falanghina, an Italian variety. The patio overlooks a cattail-lined pond, surrounding vines and the Staford House, a tilting, Queen Anne-style mansion that casts an impressive proile both in the distance and on Wrath’s labels. Farther north toward Salinas is newcomer Odonata Wines, where former brewer and Santa Cruz Mountains Vineyards Winemaker Denis Hoey bought a closed winery and small vineyard in 2014. The South tasting room (they also have a North location in Santa Cruz) features art made by wine club members, a Ms. Pac-Man table arcade game and a wide variety of wines that Hoey makes from both near and far. This is wine tasting at its most relaxed and eye-opening.

Lodging Lowdown Modest options are available in the nearby cities of Greenfield, King City and Soledad, with even more recognized chains in Salinas. Rooms at Barlocker’s Rustling Oaks Ranch can be booked through Airbnb, while larger groups will like Mesa del Sol Estate Retreat & Winery, a historic ranch along the Arroyo Seco River.

Insider Tips SECRET SAUSAGE: In a cinder-block shack down a dead-end dirt road, Roy’s Swiss Sausage Factory handcrafts some of the best links in the world. PRODUCE PLAY: It’s not just grapevines in the Salinas Valley. Get a close-up look at the Salad Bowl of the World’s 40 other crops with Ag Venture Tours. WILD WALKS: Catch a glimpse of the rugged Ventana Wilderness that frames Big Sur with a hike on the Rocky Creek Trail. It’s best to park at the Arroyo Seco Picnic Area.

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Carmel Calling The best place to try the most wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands remains the foggy, cypress tree-lined streets of Carmelby-the-Sea and, a short drive inland, the warmer, oak-shaded Carmel Valley. Developed as tourist getaways, hotel and dining options abound, and both are now hotbeds of wine tasting opportunities. Carmel Valley has been a grape-growing appellation since 1983, eight years before the Highlands. These days, it’s booming with wine more than ever, with approximately two-dozen tasting rooms within a 10-minute walk. Many specialize in bottlings from around Monterey and elsewhere, but a few focus heavily on the Santa Lucia Highlands like Bernardus, housed in an old bank. A brand new complex recently opened in the heart of town, featuring a food-serving bar called The Wine House as well as bocce, cornhole and outdoor lounge chairs. It’s also home to the tasting rooms of Joyce Vineyards and Testarossa Winery, which makes more than half a dozen wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands, among many other regions. Back by the coast in Carmel-by-the-Sea, tasting rooms lurk around every corner, in storybook cottages or along quaint plazas. Like many other prominent names in the Santa Lucia Highlands, such as Boekenoogen Winery, McIntyre Vineyards and Scheid Vineyards, Morgan Winery runs its lone tasting room here. Dan Morgan Lee’s iconic Chardonnays are poured in a bright, welcoming space at The Crossroads, a modern-looking strip mall on the outskirts of the village that ofers plenty of parking. For the most unique taste of the region, brave the village’s tour bus crowds to ind Caraccioli Cellars. It serves sparkling wine made from the Escolle Vineyard on the wind-whipped northern edge of the Santa Lucia Highlands. “I was lucky enough to inherit something that I cared about,” says Scott Caraccioli, who runs the project with his father, Gary, a longtime Salinas Valley farmer. “We felt it was a real opportunity to do something distinctive.”

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Lodging Lowdown Carmel-by-the-Sea options vary widely, from cozy places like Forest Lodge to the upscale L’Auberge Carmel. There’s also variety in Carmel Valley, but the full-service spreads of the Carmel Valley Ranch and Bernardus Lodge & Spa attract dedicated followings.

Insider Tips SANDY STROLL: Carmel Beach is one of the world’s most iconic jaunts, a sandy half-moon framed by cypress trees, frolicking dolphins and dog walkers. It’s easy to spend half the day just wandering around. BIG CITY BITES: Just opened last year, Seventh & Dolores Steakhouse, run by the folks behind Folktale Winery, brings metropolitan steakhouse vibes and plentiful seafood to the heart of Carmel-by-the-Sea. MELLOW MONKS: From April 26 to September 9, those who seek a relaxing, quiet day of hot spring soaks, hiking and a vegetarian lunch can visit Tassajara Zen Mountain Center.

Clockwise from top let: Bernardus Lodge & Spa; The Wine House; Joyce Vineyards tasting room; Scheid Vineyards tasting room; Testarossa Winery tasting room; ocean vista; Boekenoogen Winery tasting room


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RED VINES

RISING Austria’s fresh and versatile red wines are ready for prime time. BY

ANNE KREBIEHL, MW

P H OTO S B Y

TO M A R E N A

T

hough Austria is largely known for producing outstanding white wines, more than one-third of the country’s vineyards, or nearly 39,000 acres, are planted to red grapes. Most of that is dedicated to indigenous varieties, adapted both to climate and soil. At irst glance, their names might look like an unfamiliar barrage of consonants. But grapes such as Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt and St. (or Sankt) Laurent, as well as increasingly subtle versions of Pinot Noir, are worthy of your attention. Austrian red wines are perfect matches for the trends of today. They it that lighter, food-friendly paradigm of reds that ofer toned silhouettes, with textures ranging from silky smooth to velvety. Their power is more oten expressed aromatically than through assertive tannins or overly irm structures, while bright acidity highlights every nuance of fruit and spice. These red wines ofer unique expressions of quality, from joyful and fruit-forward picnic-ready pours to ageworthy, single-vineyard selections. It’s time to explore these Austrian originals and discover the bottles to try now.

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Blaufränkisch Blaufränkisch is the archetypal Austrian red: juicy and spicy, in a bold yet well-deined package. Its fruit spectrum ranges from tart plum and cherry to rich blueberry, with an alluring hint of white pepper. It performs a careful high-wire act between inky, spicy opulence and sinuous slenderness, all balanced by an ample seam of bright acidity. The best wines also have loral overtones and the efortless ability to age. Blaufränkisch buds early and ripens late. It’s at home in Austria’s continental climate, particularly in the eastern regions of Carnuntum and Burgenland, where warm, continental Eastern European air meets cooler, Alpine breezes. Blaufränkisch suitably expresses these opposites, meaning both generosity and freshness are inherent in the resulting wines. The variety thrives in the dry, sandy loams of Spitzerberg in Carnuntum, in the limestone and schist combinations of Leithaberg, in the heavy loams of Mittelburgenland and in the slate and schist soils of Eisenberg. The latter three are Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DACs), or regional appellations, that are dedicated exclusively to the grape for red-wine production. Erwin Tinhof, who makes Blaufränkisch in the Leithaberg Mountains at Weingut Tinhof, says that the grape adapts to its surroundings. “Its thick skin protects it from botrytis during its long ripening,” he says. “Great wine needs acidity, and Blaufränkisch has a lot of it; combined with ripe tannins, this gives tension, wonderful balance and elegance to the wine.” Farther south in Eisenberg, Mathias Jalits makes ageworthy, expressive Blaufränkisch from vines grown in slate soils, which bestow power and inesse to the wines. He says the grape’s acidity allows the wine to be both delicate and irmly structured. Dorli Muhr, who crats elegant Blaufränkisch on the Spitzerberg, says that it took a while for the Austrians to recognize what a treasure they had in the grape. In the past, it was prized for its ability to yield quality wines of longevity, but in the 20th century, “it was seen as a kind of peasant wine,” says Muhr. “It was considered too acidic, too rough. By now, people have recognized that Blaufränkisch is a kind of Austrian redwine DNA, but only if there is precision in vineyard and winery. Overripeness, overextraction, too much wood and winemaker ego—none of these suit Blaufränkisch.” 60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

The variety works with or without oak, but winemakers have dialed back the use of small new barrels to better showcase the grape. It’s oten described as positioned at the stylistic intersection of Pinot Noir, Syrah and Gamay. So if you like any of these varieties, Blaufränkisch is worth exploration.


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Muhr-Van der Niepoort 2015 Ried Spitzerberg Blaufränkisch (Carnuntum). Highly aromatic notions of cinnamon-dusted blueberry and plum rise from the glass. The richness of that scent is countered on the palate by ample freshness, which gives clean delineation to the fruit lavors and lends precision to the body. This is taut at present, but lavors run deep. There seems to be a loral core of peony and berry that still needs to unfold—elegance and depth are to come. Drink 2022–2035. Blue Danube Wine Co. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

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Tinhof 2015 Gloriette Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Gentle, seductive aromatics combine subtle vanilla, peony and ripe dark cherry on the nose. The palate is full, but fresh—svelte one moment, plush the next. There’s something seamless in the way the lavors merge, unimpeded by the tannins and their velvety crunch. Highly accomplished, very elegant and quite irresistible. Drink 2020– 2035. Carlo Huber Selections. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

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Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2015 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). Fresh, almost pristine black cherry beckons from the glass, followed by a gentle whif of wood smoke. The medium-bodied palate has the same combination of pristine freshness and gentle oak. It shows fresh-faced fruit laced by whisper tannins and delineated by vivid acidity. This is a wonderfully elegant wine with a real force of life inside it. Drink now–2030. Crat + Estate– The Winebow Group. abv: 13% Price: $45

St. Laurent St. Laurent may be Austria’s most tricky red grape to cultivate, but it’s worth the efort. Michael Reinisch, of Johanneshof Reinisch in the Thermenregion, is a master at turning out well-balanced and nuanced expressions of the grape. He describes St. Laurent as having “darker fruit aromas, reminiscent of sour cherry and blackberry, with a distinct savoriness, fresh acidity and irm tannin.” Legend has it that the grape was named ater St. Lawrence, a deacon of Rome in the 3rd Century, whose name day of August 10 is when the grape generally begins to ripen and turn red in the vineyard. Reinisch says that St. Laurent needs very particular conditions; if soils are too rich, there’s too much vigor and all efort goes into the shoots. As a result, his vines are planted on stonier soils. The grape also requires careful canopy management, and timing its harvest is crucial. “Growing Sankt Laurent is a challenge we are happy to take on,” says Reinisch. Johannes Trapl, who makes delicate St. Laurent in Carnuntum, says he has a “lovehate relationship” with the grape. “Its airs and graces in the vineyard are a challenge that you immediately forget when

you taste the wine,” he says. Like Reinisch, Trapl says that cool breezes and cold nights are important, as are well-ventilated sites, since its skins are thin and susceptible to fungal disease. He uses cover crops to compete for water and nutrients that control vigor and balance fruit set and ripening. Yields are oten unstable, and an incredibly selective harvest is necessary. “It takes three times as long [to harvest],” says Trapl. But his description of the inished wine is almost lyrical: “Layered with aromatic, oten loral depth and structured on the palate, but with charming, silky tannin.” Fans of Pinot Noir should take a look at this slightly darker Austrian charmer.

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Jalits 2015 Diabas Reserve Blaufränkisch (Eisenberg). Lovely notes of black cherry on the nose have a pleasant edge of bitter almond. The palate is dense with that same aromatic cherry, and it has ample power and concentration to make this a rather muscular, potent wine. The tannins are ine and have a sot but distinct grip, with a warming, long inish. Drink 2022–2032. KWSelection.com. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $71

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Prieler 2015 Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). A touch of tar, a hint of bitter almond and brooding black cherry fruit mark the nose and spread freely across the palate with dark, delicious intent. This is dense and irm with drying tannins, but no heaviness. There’s freshness and intensity to the dark, brooding fruit that will show its true colors with some more age—but its aromatic promise is already here. Drink 2020–2035. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

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Esterházy 2015 Ried Föllig Blaufränkisch (Leithaberg). The nose is still closed and shy, just giving of hints of cherry. The palate is also taut and tightly coiled. Fine, taut tannins are still drying and irm, the fruit is still enclosed with brisk freshness. There’s a dense core of fruit that still needs to unfold. This is powerful, but it remains resolutely elegant. Give this time to come into its own. Drink 2022–2030. Wein Bauer Inc. abv: 14% Price: $50

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Johanneshof Reinisch 2015 Holzspur St. Laurent (Thermenregion). Circo Vino. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

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Steindorfer 2015 Reserve St. Laurent (Burgenland). KWSelection.com. abv: 13% Price: $37

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Trapl 2015 Reserve St. Laurent (Carnuntum). Dry Farm Wines. abv: 12.5% Price: $26

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Stit Klosterneuburg 2015 St. Laurent (Thermenregion). Boutique Wine Collection. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Zweigelt Zweigelt is Austria’s red success story. A cross between Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, it was originally bred at the Federal Institute of Viticulture and Pomology at Klosterneuburg in 1922, and is now Austria’s most widely planted red variety. Zweigelt is not as demanding as either of its parents when it comes to site selection. It’s grown across the country and can deliver high yields. It also ripens earlier and runs the gamut of styles, from simple and unoaked to serious, concentrated and nuanced. Regardless of its style, it always shows its cherry charm. “We really love this variety,” says Heidi Fischer, co-owner at Weingut R&A Pfal, which also produces The Dot brand and labels its Zweigelt “Austrian Cherry.” “It is so fruity, fresh and sot,” she says. “With its exuberant cherry fruit, it makes such a drinkable, enjoyable wine.” This approachability, oten paired with remarkable afordability, is part of Zweigelt’s appeal, though it can also label the grape as somewhat unambitious. Today, many producers, including Pfal, also make more serious Zweigelts from single sites. “These wines are more robust and have a lovely pepperiness to them, but we want the cherry lavor to come through,” says Fischer. Zweigelt is the basis for the wines of the Neusiedlersee DAC in Burgenland as well as Carnuntum’s regional red known and often labelled as Rubin Carnuntum. Franz Schneider, director of Artisan Wines in Burgenland, says Zweigelt from Neusiedlersee is relective of the region’s sunny climate and diverse soils. “Heavy loams result in dark cherry notes, ripe Morello and even cassis, while lighter soils tend towards brighter cherry notes and black pepper,” he says. Schneider believes that Zweigelt is “a wine for every day, rounded and fruitforward, with a velvety tannin structure.” But he also advises aging, especially for the DAC Reserve category. “The best thing about Zweigelt is the diversity of styles it can deliver,” he says. In Carnuntum, southeast of Vienna, Winemaker Christina Artner Netzl, of Weingut Franz & Christine Netzl, agrees. “This grape can do anything, depending on site, vine-age and farming,” she says. Netzl is amongst those that make complex, layered, single-vineyard wines 62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

from the grape. “Few people trust Zweigelt to achieve real quality, and unfortunately, it still has the reputation of an easy guzzling wine,” she says. “But it is all down to the grapes in the vineyard.” Restricted yields and a gentle approach in the cellar are key to coax the best out of the grape. “Too much concentration, ripeness and wood easily overwhelm Zweigelt,” says Netzl.


Pinot Noir

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Artner 2016 Ried Steinäcker Zweigelt (Carnuntum). Shy aromas of wet stone and black cherry mark the nose. The palate shows a levity of juicy fruit, yet also a deep well of black cherry richness that needs opening up amidst the shyness and gentle gauze of ine tannins. The long inish seems to promise further development. A lovely, welljudged and rather elegant wine. Drink now–2028. Vintners Alliance. abv: 14% Price: $45

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Netzl 2015 Ried Haidacker Zweigelt (Carnuntum). A shy, restrained nose hints at red cherry, red plum and cherry juice. The palate, on the other hand, brims with fresh, aromatic cherries: black and red, ripe and luscious. It’s the slender freshness and appealing texture of ine tannin that makes this elegant and desirable. It’s a wonderfully concentrated wine, but somehow understated despite its juiciness. KWSelection.com. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

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Artisan Wines DI Franz Scheider 2015 Reserve Zweigelt (Neusiedlersee). This wine is very aromatic on the nose, with notes of dark mulberry and tangy nettle. The palate has the same intensity of fruit and herb—concentrated but not heavy, full-bodied without being rich. This strikes a most lovely balance and convinces with freshness. Steep Hill Importing. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Pinot Noir, or Blauburgunder, may not be indigenous to Austria, but it’s allegedly been cultivated there since medieval times. With around 1,600 acres planted, it’s only grown where it can thrive. There is some Pinot Noir in Burgenland, but Niederösterreich, or lower Austria, ofers intriguing Pinotfriendly pockets in Wagram, Thermenregion and Vienna itself. “The fact that two climatic zones collide, the warm Pannonian inluence from the east and the cool-continental influence from northwest, is decisive for our style, as are the cool nights,” says Heinrich Hartl III, of his namesake estate in the Thermenregion, just south of Vienna. “In late summer, the nights are cool, which allows aromatic synthesis and, therefore, ripeness with a concurrent freshness. This way, we get elegant wines that are well-structured, but not green.” Hartl is among the young winemakers that ine-tune their approach to this ickle variety. His vines are grown on calcareous subsoils, and he uses partial whole-berry and whole-bunch ferments to crat subtle wines where savoriness is as important as fruit. He says that constant eastern and northerly winds help keep botrytis at bay.

Northwest of Vienna, in the deeper loess soils of the Wagram, Anton Bauer in Feuersbrunn also says that various factors play into a good Pinot Noir vineyard. While his sites are southern-facing and warm, his Pinot vineyards are on well-ventilated slopes. The loess soils his vines are grown on are waterretentive, but they’re also well drained. Both Bauer and Hartl have impressions as to what’s particularly Austrian about their Pinot Noirs. “Fruit, depth and creaminess,” says Bauer, while Hartl asserts it’s the ripe fruit in combination with freshness. In blind tastings of international Pinot Noir lineups, however, it’s the elegance that stands out most in Austrian examples.

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Schloss Gobelsburg 2015 Reserve Zweigelt (Niederösterreich). There’s an intriguing, aromatic quality of nettle amidst the ripe, red cherry lavors on the nose. The palate has an inviting, sinuous slenderness, with still slightly grippy but ine tannin. Red cherry ripples across the palate, given precision and vibrancy by lovely, taut freshness. It’s such an elegant but lively wine, full of joy and measure. Skurnik Wines, Inc. abv: 13% Price: $38

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The Dot 2016 Austrian Cherry Zweigelt (Niederösterreich). Although restrained on the nose, this wine leads with lovely, sprightly fresh lavors. Its tannins provide grip and are just a little drying, which ofset the red berry and cherry notes. It’s balanced, fresh and tantalizing in its cherrytoned fruit. Try it with a slight chill. Esprit du Vin. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

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Zantho 2015 Reserve Zweigelt (Burgenland). A linty note of reduction hovers above the ripe, leshy aromas of red and black cherries. The palate drives home the ripe and abundant cherry fruit on a concentrated, fresh palate. The inish has ample fruit, but also levity. Gonzalez Byass USA. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

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Anton Bauer 2014 Reserve Limited Edition Pinot Noir (Wagram). KWSelection.com. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

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Wieninger 2015 Select Pinot Noir (Vienna). Crat + Estate–The Winebow Group. abv: 13.5% Price: $33

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Bründlmayer 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir (Niederösterreich). Terry Theise Estate Selections. abv: 13.5% Price: $73

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Heinrich Hartl 2014 Graf Weingartl Pinot Noir (Thermenregion). KWSelection.com. abv: 13% Price: $47 WINEMAG.COM | 63


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ALL IN THE FAMILY These pioneering Washington wineries are still going strong.

D

espite Washington State’s relative youth as a wineproducing region, a number of its wineries have decades of history. Many of them not only helped put Washington on the wine map, but set a high bar for quality. At the center of several of these wineries are the families that founded them, in some cases, extending to sons, daughters and grandchildren. These operations have continued to grow, adapt and thrive in an ever-changing industry, while simultaneously keeping things all in the family. Here’s a look at six of Washington’s founding family wineries, and how their pioneering spirit has spread across generations.

BY

S E A N P. S U L L I VA N I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y

MICHAEL FRITH

WINEMAG.COM | 65


From let: Amy, Gary, Nancy and Chris Figgins

Leonetti Cellar Almost immediately ater Gary and Nancy Figgins bonded Leonetti Cellar as Walla Walla Valley’s irst commercial winery in 1977, it made an impact. The winery’s inaugural Cabernet Sauvignon from the 1978 vintage was named the best in the country by Winestate Wine & Spirits Buying Guide, and graced the national magazine’s cover. “It gave my dad a pretty good boost of conidence,” says Chris Figgins, who now serves as Leonetti’s president and winemaking director. The recognition not only catapulted the winery into cult status, it was also a key building block in establishing Washington’s reputation as a premier wine growing region.  Chris started full-time work at the winery in 1996 ater he graduated from college. “I

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

graduated on a Saturday and went to work on Monday,” he says. “I was their irst full-time employee.” Chris has relentlessly driven the brand forward. He transitioned the winery to all estate grown fruit, slowly increased production and created two wineries: FIGGINS, which produces a vineyard-designated, Bordeaux-style red blend and estate Riesling; and Toil Oregon, a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir project. “We’re still trying to earn it,” says Chris of his customers’ support. “I tell that to my team all the time. We have to earn it every single year.” And they do, releasing consistently high-scoring wines of character, complexity and ageability.

His sister, Amy, is involved in the winery, as are their parents, although Gary’s role has reduced greatly in recent years. “When I was an overly ambitious 20-something-year-old, I was pushing really hard to take on more and more and push Dad out,” says Chris. “Now that I’m in my 40s, I’m ighting harder and harder to pull Dad back in.” Walla Walla Valley is now home to more than 120 wineries and tasting rooms, and it’s hard to overstate Leonetti’s impact on the valley and the state’s wine industry. “We feel so blessed about what this hobby has done for us and our family,” says Chris. “We never take it for granted.”


From let: John Ware, Alex, Paul and Jeannette Golitzin

Quilceda Creek Alex and Jeannette Golitzin started their winery for a very simple reason. In the 1970s, ine wine was scarce in Washington. “You had to go down to Portland,” says Alex. With the encouragement of his uncle, Napa Valley wine legend André Tchelistchef, Alex set out to rectify that problem. He bonded Quilceda Creek in 1978 to become the state’s 12th winery. What separates Quilceda Creek from its peers? It’s not just high quality and profound ageability—it’s also an unwavering focus to perfect a single variety. “I think the big deal for us is that we specialize in Cabernet,” says Alex. Indeed, outside of a red wine made from declassiied barrels, Quilceda Creek only makes Cabernet

Sauvignon, which includes its lagship Columbia Valley wine and two vineyard designates. The Golitzins’ son, Paul, became involved in the winery at a young age. He crafted reserve Cabernet Sauvignons in the late ’80s and early ’90s, in some cases before he was of legal drinking age. The success of those wines led Paul to progressively larger roles at Quilceda, and today, he acts as president and director of winemaking. “Paul is in the quest of making world class Cabernet Sauvignon,” says his brotherin-law, John Ware, who started working at

Quilceda full-time in 2000 and now serves as vice president and general manager. “He’s never satisied.” Alex and Jeannette retired two years ago, but “they are still involved, even though they are not doing the day-to-day business,” says Ware. The family has built a stateof-the-art winemaking facility and replanted key sections of Champoux Vineyard, the backbone of its lagship wine, to high density. They’ve also explored new vineyards in the Horse Heaven Hills, all in the never-ending mission to achieve Cabernet Sauvignon greatness.

WINEMAG.COM | 67


From let: JJ, Tyler, Scott and John Williams

Kiona Vineyards When John Williams and Jim Holmes planted the irst vineyard on Red Mountain in 1975, the area was so desolate they had to bring electricity in three miles and construct a road to access their site. In 1980, Williams and Holmes launched Kiona Vineyards with Chenin Blanc and Lemberger, the latter being the irst in the U.S. John’s grandson, JJ Williams, now represents the third generation at Kiona. “I worked from the bottom rungs up, starting when I was about 14,” says JJ. “Digging ditches, training vines, setting up irrigation lines and bottling wine.” It was not always an easy life. “You’d start in the morning before you went to school and

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

then take a shower and go of to school, come back, put your boots on again and work until it was dark,” he says. When he graduated from college in 2009, JJ returned to work at the winery. He now manages the business while his father, Scott, focuses on grape growing and wine production. JJ says that a family winery means wearing a lot of hats. “I think it’s fairly uncommon for a 25,000- to 30,000case winery to not have a sales team,” he says. “I am the sales team. On any given day, I’m out selling wine or running a tractor or

forklit. Whatever it is that needs to be done.” JJ’s brother, Tyler, is working on a master’s degree in Viticulture and Enology and plans to join the team upon graduation. Ater starting with roughly 10 acres in 1975, the Williams family now owns and farms 236 acres in Red Mountain, which has an estimated 2,700 acres under vine. “When my dad graduated college, the notion that he could make a living growing grapes and making wine in Washington State was pretty out there,” says JJ. How times have changed.


From let: Rick, Darcey, Sager and Jordan Small

Woodward Canyon The ith-generation of a Walla Walla Valley farming family, Rick Small shared a love of ine wine with his friend and fellow Army Reservist, Gary Figgins of Leonetti Cellar. In 1976, he began crating wine at home, and, soon ater, began establishing a vineyard on family land. It represents some of the earliest modern-day plantings in Walla Walla Valley. “My grandfather farmed there, my dad farmed there, and so I planted the vineyard there,” says Rick. By 1981, Rick and his wife, Darcey Fugman-Small, founded Woodward Canyon, the second winery to call the valley home. “It was about quality,” says Rick of his

approach. “I never really thought about the inancial aspect of it. I just really wanted to make the best wine that I could, whatever it was going to take to do that.” Rick has dedicated himself to tending the winery’s 42-acre estate vineyard. “During the season, I’ll be in the vineyard almost every day,” he says. “I want to be in the vineyards all the time.” Darcey joined the winery full-time more than a decade ago and currently serves as general manager. “She’s the one who herds all the cats around,” says Rick with a laugh.

Their two adult children, Jordan and Sager, work at Woodward Canyon as well. Jordan is involved in direct-to-consumer sales, while Sager studies Enology and Viticulture at Walla Walla Community College and shadows his father on of days. “Woodward Canyon is generational in every sense of the word,” says Rick. “I’m very proud of the fact that our kids want to make a go of it. The thing that I tell them is to make sure that this is what they want to do. It’s a lot harder than it used to be. But we will do everything we can to ensure their success.”

WINEMAG.COM | 69


From let: Marty, Megan, Rebecca and Riley Clubb

L’Ecole No. 41 A picture of the 1915 schoolhouse that houses this winery adorns every bottle. It’s as iconic as any label in Washington. When Baker and Jean Ferguson founded the winery in 1983, it was the third winery in Walla Walla Valley and the 20th in Washington. “Baker understood early on Washington’s potential,” says Marty Clubb, the Fergusons’ son-in-law. Marty took ownership of the winery with his wife, Megan, in 1989, and is also the managing winemaker. L’Ecole No. 41, a Wine Enthusiast American Winery of the Year nominee in 2017, makes over 40,000 cases of wine per year. That’s a large number by Washington’s standards, but Marty doesn’t approach production that way.

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

“We make wine like a small winery does,” he says. “It’s smallbin fermentation, punch down by hand and sot pressing to try and allow the fruit to express itself. We’re proud of that.” In recent years, L’Ecole has been among the pioneers that have planted on hillcrests in the southern section of the valley. The shallow loess and fractured basalt soils of the winery’s Estate Ferguson Vineyard have displayed a distinct proile compared to other areas of Walla Walla Valley, with a irm sense of tannic structure and bright acidity. “It clearly is a unique site,” says Marty.

The Clubbs’ two adult children, Riley and Rebecca, represent the third generation. Though not currently involved in the winery on a day-to-day basis, both have worked in the industry and have part ownership in the winery and vineyard. “When your kids grow up in the wine business, there’s a lot of the winery that’s a big chore,” says Marty. “They never really saw the romance side of the wine business until they got older.” Still, at 60, Marty has no plans to turn over the keys. “I’m going to be in it for a while,” he says.


From let: AnneMarie and Tom Hedges, Sarah Hedges Goedhart and Christophe Hedges

Hedges Family Estate Sarah Hedges Goedhart did not seem predestined to work at her family’s winery. Goedhart’s parents, Tom and Anne-Marie Hedges, founded Hedges Family Estate in 1987. They started of by selling négociant Washington wine to Sweden. In 1989, they planted an estate vineyard on Red Mountain and built a winery on the site in 1995. “As kids, we always joked that the winery was the third sibling that got the most attention,” says Sarah. In high school, she worked the bottling line and did vineyard work. She was not impressed. “I thought, ‘This sucks. I hate this business. I’m leaving for college.’ ” she says with a laugh. But ater she made wine with her nowhusband in their apartment and worked at Sonoma-based Preston Farm & Winery in Healdsburg, California, Sarah gained an appreciation for the work. She circled back to the family winery in 2005. 72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

There was only one problem: “They didn’t really have a job for me,” says Sarah. That next year, the assistant winemaker quit a week into harvest. Her uncle and head winemaker, Pete Hedges, had a proposition. “Pete said, ‘You’ve kind of been making wine, right? You want the job?’ ” Sarah agreed, and worked alongside her uncle until he retired in 2015. She then ascended into the lead role. “We’re estate grown and bottled, family owned and operated,” says Sarah. “My parents are still very much involved. My brother, Christophe, is general manager and in charge of global sales.”

Hedges has been a leader in biodynamic farming in the state, something Sarah became interested in at Preston. “The land expresses itself better, the grapes express themselves better and that translates into the wine,” she says. “We don’t ever want to be stagnant. We’re constantly trying to reinvent ourselves.” Sarah insists that one must visit the winery to understand Hedges. “You don’t really get the full story unless you come to the winery and meet the people, see the chickens running around, see my brother building things and eat the bread that I make,” she says. “We make wine, but we’re deinitely a farm and an estate.”

Tune in as Sean P. Sullivan takes a deep dive into the history of Washington State wine and reveals what’s trending now. Visit winemag.com/wastatewine to listen, or download the episode on iTunes or Google Play.


© 2018 J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, San Jose, CA

A FAMILY SUCCESS STORY, THIRTY VINTAGES AND COUNTING.

J. LOHR ESTATES MONTEREY

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PA S O R O B L E S

JLOHR.COM


BEACHY KEEN Kick back and relax with these summer-ready cocktails from the world’s best sandy retreats. BY

KARA NEWMAN

P H OTO S B Y

M E G B AG G OT T

ere’s your chance to grab those sunglasses and enjoy the best of beach life, even if your toes are far from the sand. Sourced

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from resorts and seaside cities around the world, these cocktails make the most of abundant sun and surf. From a frozen rum delight to a cucumber-accented coupe, they’re ideal to sip while you soak in the rays, relax with friends after dark or just dream of your next beachy getaway. What makes an ideal summer cocktail? Bartenders gravitate toward crisp, often unaged spirits like vodka, mezcal, white

rum and gin, accented by plenty of fresh fruit and colorful, eye-catching presentations. Other rum styles also take prominence, like spiced selections or aged bottlings with gentle brown-sugar tones. These concoctions are perfect to enjoy by the shore, lake, pool or wherever else summer happens to lead you.

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Ibiza, Spain Rays all day, rage all night—that’s how Spain’s notorious party island rolls. Ibiza is known for its boho-glam vibe, and boasts plenty of bars, clubs and restaurants that exude an upscale feel alongside trendy food and drink offerings. This cucumber-spiked cocktail from Experimental Beach, part of the Experimental Cocktail Club empire that extends to Paris and London, is a perfect example. An egg-white drink may seem like an unusual summer choice, but it gives luxurious froth to this cooling, sophisticated sipper, especially ideal as a sundowner.

St-Germain des Pres Courtesy Nico de Soto, for Experimental Beach, Ibiza, Spain 1½

ounces Hendrick’s Gin

¾

ounce St-Germain elderflower liqueur

¾

ounces lime juice

1

teaspoon cucumber juice

1

egg white

Cucumber slice, for garnish In cocktail shaker, add all ingredients. Shake to froth egg whites. Scoop in ice, and shake again to chill. Strain into coupe glass, and garnish with cucumber.

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Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tajin? This popular seasoning is a mix of ground dried red chili peppers, dehydrated lime juice and sea salt. In Mexico, a bit of Tajin is often sprinkled on fresh fruit for an extra citrusy zing. 76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018


Waikiki, Hawaii The Blue Hawaii was created in 1957 by Waikiki bartender Harry Yee, when a sales rep for Dutch distiller Bols asked him to design a cocktail that featured its Blue Curaçao liqueur. (Yee also popularized tiny umbrellas in drinks.) So it only makes sense to sip a reimagined version while in Waikiki. Whether you enjoy the original recipe or this riff, “you should be able to hold the drink up against the ocean in the distance, and both should be the same shade of deep blue,” says Joey Gottesman, CSS, spirit specialist and mixologist for Young’s Market Company.

Blue Hawaii Courtesy Joey Gottesman, CSS, for The Reef Bar & Market Grill, Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Resort, Waikiki, HI ¾

ounce PAU Maui Vodka

¾

ounce Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum

1

ounce Bols Blue Curaçao

2

ounces pineapple juice

1

lemon wedge

Pineapple wedge and cherry, for garnish In cocktail shaker, combine spirits and pineapple juice. Squeeze lemon wedge into shaker, then drop in wedge. Scoop in ice. Shake to combine, then pour contents (including ice and lemon wedge) into your favorite tiki tumbler, poco grande or hurricane glass. Add ice to fill glass. Garnish with pineapple wedge, cherry and a parasol.


Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Arak? Not to be confused with arrack, an anise-flavored spirit popular in some Middle Eastern countries, arak from Indonesia is distilled from coconut palm sap or other raw materials like rice, coconut milk or sugarcane. Some liken fiery, homebrewed versions to moonshine, but upscale bars and resorts tend to employ arak suitable to mix with abundant tropical fruit into cocktails. Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s arak is often hard to find in the U.S.

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St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands The smallest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John’s is known for the pristine national parkland that occupies two-thirds of its surface. There’s also great diving to take in the abundant sea life around its neighboring coral reefs. While St. John isn’t recognized for rum production, it’s still an excellent place to indulge in a frosty rum drink like this blended version of the classic Painkiller. At The Longboard, co-owner Tyler Beckstead recommends Cruzan Rum, made in nearby St. Croix.

Frozen Painkiller Courtesy Tyler Beckstead, co-owner, The Longboard, St. John, U.S. Virgin Islands 1

cup pineapple juice

2

ounces cream of coconut

2

ounces fresh-squeezed orange juice

4

ounces aged dark rum, such as Cruzan Aged Dark Rum

Fresh-grated nutmeg, for garnish Combine all ingredients in a blender with 1½ cups ice. Purée until smooth. Pour into highball glass. Garnish with nutmeg and serve with straw.

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CHARDONNAY SUMMER

“L S

Please enjoy our wines responsibly. ferrari-carano.com

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THE COOL FACTOR These inventive chilled soups help beat the heat.

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BY

NILS BERNSTEIN

P H OTO S B Y

SANG AN

Gazpacho may be a warm weather staple, but chefs across the country have found other creative ways to bring the ease and charm of cold soups to the table. These dishes highlight peak summer ingredients and are great foils to decadent garnishes like lurries of Manchego and coral-colored pearls of salmon roe. Easy to make ahead, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re elegant appetizers, or you can serve one with a great loaf of bread and call it dinner.

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Cantaloupe Buttermilk Soup with Bay Shrimp Jenn Louis garnishes this soup with sweet Oregon bay shrimp dressed with jalapeño, mint and lemon. Any small shrimp works, as would crab or crisp-fried prosciutto. Courtesy Jenn Louis, chef/owner, Ray, Portland, OR 1½ pounds peeled, seeded cantaloupe, diced 1

cup fresh breadcrumbs

½

cup walnuts

1

clove garlic

½

cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2

tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1

teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

½

cup buttermilk

6

ounces cooked bay shrimp

Blend cantaloupe, breadcrumbs, walnuts and garlic until smooth. Add oil, lemon juice and 1 teaspoon salt, and purée until smooth. Transfer to large bowl, and whisk in buttermilk. Add salt, to taste. Pass through medium strainer, and chill in refrigerator. Serve in shallow bowls, topped with shrimp and drizzled with olive oil. Serves 4.

-ChefJENN LOUIS A favorite from the Bravo show Top Chef Masters, Louis is a multiple James Beard Award nominee and author of two cookbooks, Pasta By Hand and The Book Of Greens. Her one-year-old Portland, Oregon, restaurant, Ray, high-

PAIR IT

lights the varied influences

Troon 2016 Cuvée Rolle Vermentino (Applegate Valley)

on modern Israeli cuisine and

Louis suggests this natural wine from her fellow Oregonians at Troon Vineyards. Co-fermentation with 10% Marsanne adds white peach and

uses local ingredients.

melon flavors to the green fruit of this Vermentino. Despite its youth, it’s smooth and well integrated, with a touch of vanilla cream on the finish.

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Green Tomato Gazpacho with Crab This clever soup serves up classic gazpacho flavors in a verdant hue. Some heirloom tomatoes are green when ripe, but the green tomatoes called for here are just unripe common varieties. You can substitute tomatillos when green tomatoes aren’t available, just add a teaspoon of sugar. Courtesy Doug Psaltis, chef/partner, Booth One, Chicago 1

pound green tomatoes, chopped

1

large cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped

2

scallions, chopped

1

clove garlic, chopped

½

cup fresh breadcrumbs, soaked in ½ cup water

½

cup extra-virgin olive oil

1½ cups packed baby spinach Salt, to taste 1

tablespoon fresh lemon juice

8

ounces fresh king crab meat

Blend tomatoes, cucumber, scallions, garlic, breadcrumbs and ¼ cup olive oil until smooth. Add spinach and lemon juice, and purée until silky. Add salt, to taste. Refrigerate. Serve in shallow bowls topped with crab and drizzled with remaining olive oil. Serves 4.

-ChefDOUG PSALTIS Psaltis worked with top chefs like Alain Ducasse, Thomas Keller and David Bouley before he opened a series of beloved Chicago restaurants. Booth One, his latest, is a reinvention of the legendary Pump Room at the Ambassador Chicago hotel. There, Psaltis serves

PAIR IT

updated fine-dining classics

Dürnberg 2015 Tradition Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel)

as well as creations that reflect

“Grüner does translate to green,” says Seth Wilson, head sommelier at Booth One. “This wine exhibits fresh lime and youthful orchard fruits,

the vegetable-forward and

but resting on its lees for 10 months gives it a beautiful yeastiness to complement the breadcrumbs blended into the soup. Secondary flavors of

globally influenced direction

cucumber, white radish and white pepper heighten the savory, spicy and herbaceous flavors.”

of modern American cuisine. WINEMAG.COM | 85


Ajoblanco with Ikura Ajoblanco is a classic cold soup from the Andalucía region of Spain. Tracy Chang embellishes hers with salmon roe, though trout roe or caviar would be delicious as well. Make breadcrumbs from white bread without the crusts to keep the soup light in color. Keep in mind that this soup is very rich, so serving sizes should be small. Courtesy Tracy Chang, chef/owner, PAGU, Cambridge, MA 1

cup blanched almonds

1

clove garlic

1¼ cups fresh breadcrumbs, soaked in 1 cup water ½

cup extra-virgin olive oil (preferably Spanish)

1

tablespoon Sherry vinegar

¼

teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

2

ounces ikura (cured salmon roe), or other fish roe

1

tablespoon minced chives

Blend almonds, garlic, breadcrumbs and olive oil until smooth. As blender runs, add vinegar, salt and 1 cup water. Purée until smooth. Pass through fine-mesh strainer. Chill in refrigerator. Serve in small bowls, topped with ikura and sprinkled with chives. Serves 4.

-ChefTRACY CHANG Chang’s restaurant, PAGU, merges

childhood

time

spent in her grandmother’s Japanese restaurant with more recent years in San Sebastián, where she worked with star Basque chef Martín Berasategui. You’ll find jamón ibérico and classic pintxos alongside uni mazemen and

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chicken katsu, but there are

Txomin Etxaniz 2016 Getaria (Getariako Txakolina)

dishes that bridge the two,

“This is a crisp, mineral-driven white wine from Basque Country, where I lived,” says Chang. “It’s refreshing, due to its slightly effervescent

like curry crab croquetas and

quality, especially when poured from a high height, as they do in that part of Spain. It pairs very nicely with creamy dishes and seafood, and is a

squid-ink oyster bao with

wonderful start to a meal.”

seaweed aioli.

86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018


E V E R Y G R E A T W I N E T E L L S A S T O R Y. T H E C A L I F O R N I A C A B E R N E T S T O R Y S T A R T S H E R E.

All third party brand names and trademarks are the property of their respective owners and are not meant to imply an endorsement of Concannon Vineyard.

©2017 Concannon Vineyard, Livermore, CA

“Today, we are proud that an estimated 80% of California’s Cabernet Sauvignon is planted with our Concannon Cabernet Clones. There’s a legacy at work here, and you’ll taste it in every sip.”

POINTS 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon

A F O U N D I N G FA M I L Y O F C AL I F O R N I A CA B E R N E T S A U V I G N O N TM


Raw Corn Soup with Manchego With the corn stock prepared in advance, this soup comes together in seconds. It showcases the beauty of sweet summer corn. Serve immediately, as raw corn loses sweetness quickly. Courtesy Ford Fry, owner, Ford Fry Restaurants, Atlanta 6

ears corn

¼

cup milk

2

tablespoons sugar, plus more to taste

2

teaspoons salt, plus more to taste

½

cup crème fraîche

½

cup fine-grated Manchego cheese

¼

cup Thai basil leaves, torn into small pieces

Extra-virgin olive oil

Scrape corn kernels off cobs. In large saucepan, submerge cobs in 6 cups water, milk, sugar and salt. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 20 minutes. Strain, and reserve stock. Refrigerate until cold. Place 4 serving bowls in freezer, to chill. Blend corn kernels, crème fraîche and 1½ cups corn stock until smooth. Add salt and/or sugar, to taste. Pass through medium strainer. Serve immediately in chilled bowls. Top with Manchego, Thai basil and drizzle of olive oil. Serves 4.

-ChefFORD FRY In the 11 years since he opened Atlanta’s Jct. Kitchen & Bar, Fry has amassed an empire of eight restaurants in the Atlanta area, including Marcel, a 2017 Wine Enthusiast Top 100 Wine Restaurant. He also has a restaurant in Houston, with more in the works. From casual Tex-Mex to old-school fine dining, his restaurants give a simple

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showcase to top-quality

Nigl 2016 Freiheit Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich)

ingredients, while exuding

“A youthful and vibrant white wine like this is a great foil for Ford’s corn soup,” says Eduardo Porto Carreiro, beverage director for Ford Fry

Southern style and warmth.

Restaurants. “The wine’s pure pear notes and hint of savory minerality perfectly complement the creamy sweetness of the chilled soup.”

88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018


90 Points 2015 Esate Chardonnay Wine Enthusiast

93 Points Estate Sauvignon Blanc Wine Enthusiast

The Iconic Wine Estate of Sonoma County Our 1,300 acre wine estate is an elegant oasis hidden in the foothills on the mountain range that divides both Napa and Sonoma Counties. The estate offers extraordinary scenery, cooling maritime breezes and an ideal climate for growing grapes. Our highly coveted wine are rich in character, distinction and elegance. 10300 Chalk Hill Road, Healdsburg, California 95448 | www.chalkhill.com


Sopa de Betabel (Mexican Beet Soup with Chipotle) Beets are common in Mexican cuisine, especially around Christmas. While it could be served hot in the winter, chilling this soup gives a nice contrast to its rich spice. Courtesy Katy Smith, executive creative chef, Puesto, San Diego Olive oil, for pot 1

large white onion, sliced

6

cloves garlic

1

teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1

teaspoon Mexican oregano

12

ounces steamed beets, coarse-chopped

1

large (or 2 small) canned chipotle chile peppers

3

cups chicken stock

Mexican crema Toasted pepitas

-ChefKATY SMITH With a longtime love of Mexican cuisine, Smith served as test kitchen director and culinary assistant to the American prince of Mexican cooking,

Rick

Bayless.

She worked on his Emmynominated

PBS

televi-

sion series, cookbooks and podcast. Smith returned to

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her native Southern California

Lechuza 2015 Chardonnay Acero Inoxidable (Valle de Guadalupe)

in 2016 to join the Puesto

“This Chardonnay is stirred on the lees prior to filtration, giving it a slight creaminess that complements its lean, bright character,” says Lucien

team as executive creative

Conner, beverage director and manager at Puesto. “The wine’s crisp apple and citrus fruit draws up the sweetness of the beets, just as the

chef for its five locations, with

wine’s acidity cuts it back. The minerality—typical of Valle de Guadalupe terroir—teases out a pleasing touch of the beets’ earthy character.”

another in the works.

90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

FOOD AND PROP STYLING BY JERRIE-JOY REDMOND-LLOYD; BOWLS BY GOOD CONNECTION

Heat soup pot over medium heat, and coat with olive oil. Add onion and cook until golden, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, oregano and salt. Cook 1 minute, then add chile, beets and stock. Bring to simmer, and cook 15 minutes. Blend until smooth. Add adobo sauce from chipotle can, if desired. Pass through fine-mesh strainer. Chill in refrigerator. Serve soup topped with dollop of crema and pinch of pepitas. Serves 4.


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E N J O Y W I N E R E S P O N S I B LY


BUYINGGUIDE JUNE

THIS MONTH 94

GERMANY

112

BURGUNDY

116

SOUTHWEST FRANCE

118

CAMPANIA

121

SPAIN

122

PORTUGAL

123

AUSTRALIA

125

WASHINGTON

126

OREGON

129

CALIFORNIA

132

CHILE

133

URUGUAY

134

SPIRITS

135

BEER

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GOLD COAST PINOT NOIR World-class wines from the sun-drenched vineyards of California.

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DPA / ALAMY

Red wines from Spain and Portugal, with many Best Buys for savvy shoppers.

Red Burgundy isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the only Pinot Noir worthy of the cellar. FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS


BUYINGGUIDE

GERMANY Spätburgunder takes center stage s any devotee of German wines in America acidity and minerality. Rudolf Furst’s inest botcan attest, the Yankee love afair with tlings are breathtakingly opulent yet perfumed Deutsche weine span a winding history and spry. Friedrich Becker is known for his of jubilant ups and sputtering downs. intensely mineral driven, weightlessly textured While most Americans are familiar with the wines sourced from limestone soils in the Pfalz. country’s most widely planted grape, Riesling, In the past, Germany’s limited production many consumers are just now getting a glimpse and high domestic demand for Pinot Noir kept into the world of German red wine that has exports down. Yet now, bottlings from top procaptivated the homeland over ducers like Salwey, Wittmann the last decade. Most notable is or Franz Keller can be found Germany’s Pinot Noir, or Spätburgunder, as on retail shelves between $20– intensely terroirthe grape is known there. 30. The cream of the crop— driven Pinot Noirs its premier-cru and grand-cru Germany’s history of Pinot production dates back to Roman equivalents of erste lage, grosse offer remarkably times. Since 1990, however, lage and grosses gewächs— high performance plantings of the grape have won’t necessarily come cheap. for the cost. doubled, making Germany the That is, until one compares third largest producer of Pinot them to the skyrocketing prices Noir ater France and the United States. Today, of Burgundian grand cru or premier cru wines. ine examples are being produced in every wine With ever increasing global demand region in Germany, from the warm, southerly for premium Pinot Noir, and rising prices Baden to the most northerly cool climes of for benchmark wines from Burgundy and Mosel and the Ahr. California, Germany’s intensely terroir-driven While diverse in style even within Germany, Pinot Noirs ofer remarkably high performance Pinot Noir ofers an ot surprising ripeness and for the cost. fruitiness that is calibrated by invigorating Cheers! —Anna Lee C. Iijima

A

SPÄTBURGUNDER

96

Rudolf Fürst 2015 Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder GG (Franken). While initially closed, time and aeration reveal seductive aromas of crisp red fruit marked by layers of earth, smoke and slate. On the palate, succulent black-cherry and berry lavors fall in massive undulating waves edged by irm penetrating tannins. It’s an exceptionally rich but elegant wine inishing on lingering notes of granite and cherry blossom. Rudi Wiest Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $120

96

Rudolf Fürst 2015 Hundsrück Spätburgunder GG (Franken). Ripe but restrained blackcherry and berry aromas are accented by complexities of violet, lavender and herbs on the nose of this boldly structured Spätburgunder. It’s an opulent wine boasting leshy layers of black plum and mulberry peppered with spice and dense, mouthcoating

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

and plum lavors, lip-smacking cranberry acidity and elegant tones of granite and violet freshen the midpalate. Persistent, mouth-coating tannins carry a long inish. Beautiful already but will improve through 2025. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $150

95

Rudolf Fürst 2015 Schlossberg Spätburgunder GG (Franken). Delicate whifs of hazelnut, toast and leafy herbs lend dimension to crisp red cherry and berry in this invigorating wine. Its irm, precise style is augmented by shimmering red-currant acidity and a blanket of sot velvety tannins on the inish. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $170

95

Schmitt’s Kinder 2015 Randersackerer Pfülben Grosse Lage GG Dry Spätburgunder (Franken). Delicate hints of smoke, hazelnut and spice accent black cherry and berry in this inely polished red. While expansive and voluptuous in mouthfeel, it’s freshened by twists of violet and rose petal lorals along with invigorating strikes of acidity. The inish is long, marked by a subtle kiss of vanilla and ine-grained, penetrating tannins. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $100

95

Schnaitmann 2015 Lämmler Spätburgunder GG (Württemberg). Lip-smacking sour cherry and raspberry lavors are at the forefront of this delightfully gossamer Spätburgunder. It’s an exceptionally pristine, pretty wine marked by zesty red-currant acidity and a crushed mineral undertone. Fine-grained silky tannins mark the inish. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $110

94

tannins. Hold till 2025 to allow this lavish wine to meld but enjoy for years to come. Rudi Wiest Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $200

Friedrich Becker 2013 Steinwingert Pinot Noir (Pfalz). Whispers of clove and smoked nut lend warmth to ripe luscious blackberry and cherry lavors in this sumptuous, glossy wine. While full bodied and rich in mouthfeel, brisk but deeply integrated acidity and ine but irm tannins lend a seamlessness of structure. Hints of candied black cherry and spice linger on the inish. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

96

Meyer-Näkel 2015 Pfarrwingert Spätburgunder (Ahr). Delicate notes of spice, game and forest loor percolate through robust black plum and cherry in this weighty Spätburgunder. It’s ripe and lavish yet elegantly restrained, too, boasting a seamless integration of acidity and chalky, mouthilling tannins. The inish is long and lingering. It’s a complex, penetrating wine to hold back till at least 2023. Rudi Wiest Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $140

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95

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Friedrich Becker 2013 Sankt Paul Pinot Noir (Pfalz). Integrated notes of bramble, toast and spice recollect two years of oak maturation in this bold, concentrated Spätburgunder. While at irst voluptuous on the palate in bold red-cherry

Meyer-Näkel 2015 S Spätburgunder (Ahr). Savory notes of tomato leaf and forest loor lend savory complexity to concentrated raspberry and black-cherry lavors here. While its lush, fruity style is approachable, it’s a structured, upright wine with fresh acidity and ine, mouth-coating tannins. Whispers of game and leather forecast a nuanced maturation over the next decade. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $90 Rudolf Fürst 2015 Bürgstadter Berg Spätburgunder Erste Lage (Franken). Initial whifs of smoke and nut subside revealing aromas of crisp Continued on page 110


The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Managing Editor/Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Tasting Manager Alexander Peartree, Senior Tasting Coordinator Fiona Adams, Tasting Coordinator Carrie Dykes, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

97

Anderson Conn Valley 2015 Aurum (Napa Valley). Aurum, Latin for gold, is the irst release of this high-level, small-production wine—a blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 1% Merlot. Spicy clove, black pepper and cigar box highlight a grippy, structured and expansive palate of blackberry and cherry. It’s eager for more time in the cellar; enjoy 2025– 2035. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $395

95

Château Lagrézette 2015 Le Pigeonnier Malbec (Cahors). This single-vineyard wine—named ater the classic pigeon house located near the vines—is bold in black fruit and spice tones, with a huge, dry and tannic structure from wood aging. There is a real sense of power and great concentration, making this an ageworthy wine. Drink from 2024. Curious Cork Imports LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $290

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. The pinnacle of quality. A great achievement. Highly recommended. Oten good value; well recommended. Suitable for everyday consumption; oten good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances. Classic 98–100: Superb 94–97: Excellent 90–93: Very Good 87–89: Good 83–86:

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed. SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys ater surpassing a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. LABELS Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels only ater the reviews have been finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net. Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at winemag.com/ratings

97

Drew 2015 Estate Field Selections Pinot Noir (Mendocino Ridge). It’s hard to imagine a wine with more personality and complexity than this absolutely intriguing mountain-grown Pinot. It continues to surprise and delight in layers of exotic mint, violet, ripe cherry and berry tones that carry through to the vibrant inish. Superb balance comes from irm tannins and ample acidity, with vivid fruit and savory lavors on top of a medium body. Best ater 2022. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $60

97

FEL 2015 Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Sleek, vivid and sophisticated, this wine wows with fresh, concentrated tones. There’s a sense of taut balance between acidity and ripeness, with a laser focus of raspberry, cherry and strawberry lavors that extend the inish for minutes. This great wine from a celebrated vineyard is an excellent choice for the cellar, best enjoyed ater 2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $70

95

Domaine Divio 2016 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). With the third vintage of this wine, Winemaker Bruno Corneaux cements his place among the top rung of Chardonnay producers in Oregon. Using a hands-of approach tied to traditional Burgundian techniques, he has attained complex apple butter, linty stone, caramel, brioche and roasted chestnut lavors. The cascading details throughout the long inish make drinking this a riveting experience. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

95

Drew 2015 The Fog-Eater Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This wine is practically enchanting with its myriad aromas, lively texture and layers of intricate fruit, spice and woodsy lavors. It ofers tones of tart red cherry, rhubarb and cranberry, with enough body and richness to nicely balance those lean characteristics. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $45

WINEMAG.COM | 95


BUYINGGUIDE

95

Gainey 2014 Patrick’s Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley). A focused nose of plump red fruit and baking spice start of this special selection Cabernet, which includes 10% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. The palate is zesty in notes of thyme, oregano, blackberry, tobacco and cedar. Over time, it expands broadly and deliciously on the palate. Drink 2020–2034. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $75

95

Gary Farrell 2015 Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This wine opens with a tropical lushness on the nose before settling onto a tangy palate of citrus and star fruit. It shows balance and grace, with tones of stone and brine. —V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $45

95

Gary Farrell 2015 Rochioli-Allen Vineyards Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This wine strikes supple fruit tones against broad minerality. Meyer lemon and tangerine lavors are complemented by salty stone and butter. Bright acidity carries the palate as a lovely note of orange blossom persists. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $60

96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

94

94

94

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Anderson Conn Valley 2015 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Aged for 22 months in French oak, this is a substantial red that is sot in polished tannins. The aromas and lavors carry rich layers of dried herb, cedar, cassis and sweet tobacco. —V.B. abv: 15.2% Price: $125

Bailarin 2015 Manchester Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Mendocino Ridge). A wonderfully expressive aroma and mouthilling lavors bring a lot of excitement to this full-bodied, complex and layered wine from a new producer. From the black tea and wood smoke aromas to the rich black cherry, black plum and clove lavors, it keeps bringing new aspects to the front with each sip. It is big yet beautifully balanced. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $44

94

Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oxford 1.970 Pedro Ximénez. An opaque brown color and massive raisin and ig aromas announce a supremely rich Sherry. Despite that initial impression, the palate is lively and fresh, with vivid chocolate and pepper lavors that suggest Mexican cocoa. It inishes smooth and well balanced for such a concentrated wine. Cordelina Wine Company. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 17% Price: $21/500 ml

Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2015 Herdade de São Miguel Reserva (Alentejano). This young wine ofers ripe fruit and structured tannins will develop into a dense, ageworthy wine. Bold black fruits and crisp acidity gain extra richness from the wood aging. Drink from 2021. Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

Château Lagrézette 2015 Paragon Massaut Malbec (Cahors). This wine comes from a sweet spot on gravel soil in Alain Dominique Perrin’s Clos Marguerite vineyard. It has a great sense of site, with power, a dense texture, huge tannins and layers of jammy black fruit. Rich and ripe, it will age over many years. Drink from 2023. Curious Cork Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $120

94

Holdredge 2015 Bucher Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This memorable wine is delightfully heady in fresh aromas of strawberry, raspberry and exotic spices. The palate feels complete, with nice weight and texture. A lit of earth adds intrigue and length to the inish. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $50


94

MacRostie 2015 Thale’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This wine is fruity, fresh and lengthy, with expansive layers of blueberry, strawberry and lowers. From the producer’s irst estate vineyard, it ofers lasting impressions of earth and spice. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $56

94

Nickel & Nickel 2015 State Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). A 100% varietal wine from the cooler end of the valley, this powerful wine ofers tight barrel integration and grippy tannins. Sot, rounded layers of red cherry and cassis add to a lushness of fruit seasoned by savory clove. Enjoy 2025–2035. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $115

93

Anderson Conn Valley 2015 Eloge (Napa Valley). This powerful wine is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot. It’s intense yet polished, ofering dried herb components around tones of cedar, clove and violet, with background notes of cofee and mocha. The tannins are well integrated and supportive. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $125

93

Armida 2015 Parmelee-Hill Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma Coast). From a fantastic, highelevation site, this wine impresses in its broad, muscular power that settles onto notes of black licorice, black cherry and cocoa powder. While not shy in richness or concentration, it remains fresh from supportive acidity. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $48

93

Garzón 2015 Balasto (Uruguay). Bodega Garzón’s iconic red blend combines Tannat, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Marselan. It deals olive tapenade and balsamic berry aromas. Plush cassis, blackberry and chocolate lavors on the palate inish with warmth, weight and toasty notes. With biting acidity ofsetting its weight and ripeness, this is a wine that requires food and would pair well with a juicy steak. Drink through 2023. Paciic Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

93

Chalk Hill 2016 Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Chalk Hill). This pretty wine is loral and beguiling on the nose. It was blended with 11% Sauvignon Gris and 6% Sauvignon Musqué, with the whole barrel fermented and aged in both French oak and stainless steel drums. Creamy and lush on the palate, the medium body is integrated and complex in highlights of apricot, lime and peach. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $33

93

Eleven Eleven 2014 Laki’s Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll District). Oaky and aromatic in sweet tobacco, this is a juicy, expansive and extracted wine—delicious and big boned, but structured and in balance. Black pepper and dark cherry mingle on the palate, inding complementary sides of an equation. Enjoy best 2024–2034. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $125

93

Niner 2014 Fog Catcher (Paso Robles). Bright black-cherry juice meets rich black-plum sauce and chocolate aromas on the nose of this blend of 37% Cabernet Franc, 29% Petit Verdot, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Malbec. It’s thick, lavish and chalky in feel, with bright lavors of kirsch and milk chocolate that lead into a hint of fudge on the inish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

93

Opolo 2016 Mountain Zinfandel (Paso Robles). A beautiful shade of purplish red, this bottling shows cohesive aromas of black plum, strawberry sorbet, vanilla and nutmeg on the nose. The palate is full, rounded and rich in plum jam lavor, but with enough baking spice and a strong crushed rock minerality to add elegance and intrigue. —M.K. abv: 15.5% Price: $29

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BUYINGGUIDE

Sante Arcangeli F A M I L Y

W I N E S

I N T E G R A T O B a r r e l

S e l e c t i o n

2016

PINOT NOIR Santa Cruz Mountains

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Opolo 2015 Rhapsody Reserve Collection Red Blend (Paso Robles). Plush, lush and fruitforward on the nose, this Bordeaux-style red blend shows plump black plum, strawberry, cocoa, vanilla and crushed rock aromas. The palate is lush in dark fruit lavors and touches of espresso and cocoa, with strong acidity and irm tannins ofering support. Drink 2019–2035. Cellar Selection. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $47

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Quintet 2015 Lichtenwalter Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This wine ofers blackberry and black cherry lavors, with notes of smoke, earth and seashell. Eighteen months aging in 30% new oak barrels adds sandalwood and chocolate scents to the mix. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $52

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Sante Arcangeli 2016 Integrato Barrel Selection Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). This wine from four diferent vineyards shows concentration and richness, starting with aromas of mulberry paste, turned loam, cardamom and nutmeg. Those spices show on the palate as well, where concentrated hibiscus syrup and condensed rose petals make for a hearty yet upliting sip. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $39

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Red Car 2014 Hagan Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Light in color and brimming in a white-pepper tone, this is a stemmy and intriguing wine. Fans that prefer a more savory style of Pinot Noir will enjoy this superb ofering. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $68

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Piña 2014 Wolff Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). This is a tightly wound wine, with a focused, freshly compacted core of vanilla, red cherry, cassis and toasty oak. Bright fruit tones and bright acidity help keep the palate buoyant and alive. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $85

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Summers 2014 Reserve Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Calistoga). Billowy, expansive tannins build a foundation of power and structure in this wine, buoyed by bright underlying acidity. Floral and leshy, it ofers substantial lavors of cassis, black cherry and vanilla. It will do well in the cellar; enjoy 2024–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

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Quinta do Vallado 2015 Quinta do Orgal (Douro Superior). Made from organically grown grapes, this wine is beautifully ripe and richly concentrated. A dusting of tannins hangs in suspension among the bold black-fruit and loral lavors. It would be best ater some time to age; drink from 2021. Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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San Simeon 2014 Stormwatch Estate Reserve (Paso Robles). Deep tones of blackberry and purple lowers show on the nose of this blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 16% Malbec, 15% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc. Bright berry lavors ride a medium-bodied palate and are lited by dried herbs and a hint of anise. The tannins are chalky on the inish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $80

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51 Weeks 2015 Voetjes Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This wine is full bodied and immediately enjoyable, with berry and cherry lavors gently wrapped in baking spice. Cocoa, cofee and cinnamon highlights relect its 10 months aging in one quarter new French oak. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $32


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Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Élite Oloroso Medium Sherry. Inviting aromas of brown sugar and dried stone fruit come with maple shadings in this semisweet Oloroso. It’s chewy and medium-thick in feel, with peanut butter, tofee, orange peel and chocolate lavors that lead to a bold and toasty inish. Cordelina Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $30

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Bodegas Faustino 2005 I Gran Reserva (Rioja). This wine ofers a mix of loral, berry and earthy aromas on the nose. It relects its ine vintage, displaying irm tannins on a tight palate. Dried plum, cherry, tomato and herbal lavors inish with tension and wiry freshness. Drink through 2027. Palm Bay International. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $38

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Foxen 2016 Tinaquaic Vineyard Estate Grown Dry Farmed Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Tightly wound, this bottling from one of the region’s dry-farmed vineyards shows lime skin, lemongrass and Meyer lemon pith on the nose. The palate is loaded with fresh, tart lavors of wild lime and sea shells, wrapped in a chalky texture and jampacked with textural intrigue and depth. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $43

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Garzón 2016 Single Vineyard Tannat (Uruguay). This dark-colored Tannat is intense and iron-isted, with aromas of coconut and spicy black fruit. Blackberry, cassis, toast and peppercorn lavors run long on the palate, carrying to the generous inish. Drink through 2021. Paciic Highway Wines & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

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Holdredge 2015 The True Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is a sot, succulent wine that’s focused and full bodied, richly rewarding in perfumed aromas of rose and lavender. Made in tiny amounts, it ofers a depth of concentrated blueberry and huckleberry that’s entirely delicious. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $50

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Holdredge 2015 Judgment Tree Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a fresh, exotic and beguiling wine, with youthful tannins and nice concentration. The rich, bold lavors are marked by cherry, cola and a touch of smoky char that lead to highlights of clove and forest loor. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $70

Holdredge 2015 Rolling Thunder Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dense and richly interwoven, this wine is made in a substantial style, with polished yet hearty tannins that need time to resolve in its youth. Black licorice and cherry meet nicely in the middle to ofer well-balanced fruit and spice tones. —V.B. abv: 14.6% Price: $50

King Estate 2014 Antiquum Vineyards Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This pungent, detailed wine ofers peppery raspberry and cherry lavors. It has an herbal side that suggests thyme, and the lingering inish adds a streak of Dr. Pepper. Aged a year in one third new oak, it’s drinking well and shows the fruit appeal of the vintage. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

Marimar Estate 2014 Don Miguel Vineyard Estate Grown & Bottled Unfiltered Syrah (Russian River Valley). The third vintage of this bottling from the producer’s cool-climate site shows exotic and subdued undertones of wood, dried herb and white pepper. The palate is substantial yet sotly layered. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $53

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Paul Hobbs & Bertrand Gabriel Vigouroux 2014 Crocus Le Calcifère Malbec (Cahors). This is one of the wines in a joint venture between Bertrand Vigouroux of Cahors and California winemaker/consultant Paul Hobbs. It is rich without ever being too irm or extracted. The fruits are right there along with vibrant acidity and plenty of room for the wine to open up. Drink from 2021. Paul Hobbs Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $45

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Ponzi 2015 Classico Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This relatively new mid-level Pinot Noir is a mix of estate and purchased grapes aged for almost a year in one third new oak barrels. It’s irm, compact and juicy, with red fruit set in an aromatic frame of crushed raspberry, lavender and thyme notes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $43

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Renwood 2015 Special Reserve Grandpère Zinfandel (Amador County). This wine has the brambly, wild berry character of Zinfandel in spades. Combine that signature lavor with good balance, medium to full body and a mildly tannic texture, and a well-crated, distinctive wine is the result. Aged in 40% new French oak, it is not overtly spicy, but inds great lavor balance. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Peachy Canyon 2015 Snow Zinfandel (Adelaida District). Like a walk through a chaparral thicket, this bottling shows tons of herbal inluence, with dried oregano, thyme and sage sprinkled atop tones of red plum and hibiscus. Those herbs also decorate the palate’s cranberry core, which also ofers a roasted meat lavor. —M.K. abv: 14.6% Price: $38

Red Car 2014 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Light and earthy, this is made in a restrained style that shows focused, fresh lavors of citrus, cherry and pomegranate. Acid-driven and nuanced on the midpalate in white pepper and cardamom, the inish brings a rush of fruit lavors. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $45

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Rocca delle Macìe 2013 Sergio Zingarelli Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). Aromas of underbrush, toast, French oak, blue lower and a whif of culinary spice slowly take shape. Taut, velvety tannins provide a irm, polished framework for lavors of Marasca cherry, cassis, licorice and espresso. Drink 2019–2028. Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $120

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Piña 2014 Firehouse Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Fully ripe, robust black fruit brims along a seamless and intense core of spicy tobacco, black pepper and plum highlights in this wine. A dusting of tannins carries a spark of cocoa powder on the inish. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $85

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Renwood 2015 Jack Rabbit Flat Vineyard Zinfandel (Amador County). This is a irmly textured, well-balanced wine that ofers aromas of black pepper and grilled beef. The palate brings a fresh blackberry lavor, with a gripping mouthfeel framed by good tannins. Made from 100% Zinfandel, it comes of dry and concentrated. Best ater 2023. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Sean Minor 2016 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is an impressive, well-priced wine to stock up on. Golden waves of toasted oak complement a backdrop of honeysuckle and apple blossom, while spicy nutmeg seasons well-honed notions of apple and pear. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $22


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Sentivo 2012 Estate Syrah (El Dorado). This is a rich, concentrated and ripe wine, but one that doesn’t go over the top. It ofers enticing aromas of blackberry and dark chocolate, followed by satisfying blueberry and espresso lavors, with a irm texture from a healthy layering of ine-grained tannins. —J.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $32

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Castelvecchi 2013 Madonnino della Pieve Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). Made entirely from Sangiovese, this opens with enticing aromas of iris, black-skinned berry and Mediterranean herb. The structured, savory palate ofers juicy wild cherry, star anise and black pepper alongside inegrained tannins. Drink through 2025. Serendipity Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $70

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Andis 2015 Indian Creek Vineyard Primitivo (Amador County). This wine ofers expansive aromas of lavender and rose on the nose. Ripe plum, ig and cassis mark the sotly textured palate, with a rich inish almost like a late-harvest wine. —J.G. abv: 15% Price: $25

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Château Lagrézette 2016 Seigneur de Grezette Malbec (Cahors). Seigneur means lord of the manor, yet this is a modern, smooth style of Malbec. It’s packed with fruit as much as tannins. Rich berry lavors laced with crisp acidity yield a wine that is poised and elegant. Drink from 2021. Curious Cork Imports LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Bonterra 2015 Made with Organic Grapes Merlot (California). This elegant mediumbodied wine has everything in place, from fresh plummy aromas to warm layered lavors to an appetizing and moderately tannic texture. It has excellent balance, with a sense of freshness and depth that is compelling. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $16

Foxen 2016 Block UU Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Sea salt, preserved lemons, pan-seared apples, plumeria and honeysuckle show on the engaging nose of this bottling from a preferred block in this historic vineyard. The palate plays to the savory side of Chardonnay, ofering an oily texture that carries lavors of cashew and marmalade. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $34

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Elk Cove 2015 La Bohème Estate Grown Brut Rosé (Yamhill-Carlton). Sourced from the oldest vines of the estate’s La Bohème vineyard, this lush sparkler is made from 100% Pinot Noir. Its pretty strawberry shade matches the scents and lavors. With exceptional concentration and elegance, it seemingly gathers strength through its long, lavorful inish. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $50

Garzón 2015 Single Vineyard Petit Verdot (Uruguay). This Petit Verdot is anything but petite. Its iery, grapy nose is full of power and energy while it’s rich and jammy on the palate. Dark plum and baked berry lavors end with weight, warmth and a licorice root note. Drink through 2023. Paciic Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

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Grgich Hills 2015 Estate Grown Fumé Blanc Dry Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). This wine ofers a lovely balance of dry, oaky substance on a well-framed, light body. The palate is fresh and fruity, with an exotic core of papaya, lemon and butter that’s bolstered by succulent freshness and a lush backbone. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $31

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Hahn 2016 SLH Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Ripe cherry fruit is cut by touches of rust and turned soil on the inviting nose of this bottling. The mouthfeel is thick and grippy, carrying rounded berry lavors, a hint of baking spice and some dried thyme on the back end. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

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King Estate 2014 Crot Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Tart cranberry and pomegranate fruit is front and center in this wine, streaked with an herbed butter accent. Barrel aged for a year in 30% new French oak, it’s smooth and silky in feel. The tannins are somewhat astringent but should soten in time. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $60

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Maison Jussiaume 2015 Blanc de Blancs (Rogue Valley). From Winemaker JeanMichel Jussiaume, this sparkling wine is produced entirely from Chardonnay sourced from the Del Rio Vineyard. It ofers concentrated lemon, grapefruit and pineapple lavors, with a ine bead and impeccable overall balance. —P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $65

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Iron Horse 2015 North Block Pinot Noir (Green Valley). From a three-block section of the vineyard, this wine is high-toned in rhubarb and pomegranate. The texture is grainy and complex, layered nicely with a lasting note of plush, velvety black cherry and fresh acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $85

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King Estate 2014 Kennel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a chunky, spicy, agreeable wine, with a brambly mix of red fruit notes. It’s all power on the midpalate, while the oak aging—one year in 30% new barrels—brings toasted hazelnut highlights. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $55

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Masthead 2015 Mohr-Fry Ranch Block 433 Sangiovese (Lodi). This wine balances ripe fruit lavors with oak spiciness. Aromas of mahogany and cedar start it of, followed by cherry and black currant lavors that are shaded by chocolate and linger on the inish. It boasts an appetizing and moderately tannic texture, with supportive acidity that keeps it fresh and compelling. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

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Jean-Luc Baldès 2015 Clos Triguedina Malbec (Cahors). Mostly Malbec, with small additions of Merlot and Tannat, this is an impressively balanced wine. Ripe black fruit lavors are embedded in irm tannins, speaking to its ageworthy potential. Drink from 2020. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

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Le Vigne 2015 Cuore Della Vigna (Paso Robles). Stewed pomegranates and red currants are lited by vanilla and baking spice on the nose of this blend that’s named ater the “heart of the vineyard.” Rounded cherry and mulberry lavors show on the palate, which gains complexity from the licorice and red-lower lavors. This is easy drinking and boasts smooth tannins. —M.K. abv: 14.8% Price: $43

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Napa Cellars 2015 Classic Zinfandel (Napa Valley). A broad-shouldered, fruit-forward wine with plenty of ripeness, this is blended with a hearty 15% Petite Sirah. Cherry, blackberry, vanilla and peppery cinnamon take turns on the rich, concentrated palate, inishing on an oaky tone. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $25


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Opolo 2015 Forte Reserve Collection Zinfandel (Paso Robles). This reserve bottling takes some time to open up, but is quite elegant when it arrives. Aromas of muddy earth and dark fruit lead into a dense, lavish palate framed by irm tannins. Red plum and strawberry sorbet lavors rise above the loamy, clay-like elements at the core. Cocoa spice and a sot texture unfold with patience. —M.K. abv: 15.9% Price: $40

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Peachy Canyon 2015 Clevenger Zinfandel (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). Concentrated aromas of red currant, alpine strawberry and carnation show on the nose of this bottling from one of the region’s Zinfandel pioneers. The palate follows suit, with a juicy blackberry sorbet lavor and a gravelly minerality that are upheld by irm tannins and solid acidity. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $38

Rococo 2016 Sur Lie Chenin Blanc (Santa Barbara County). From 40-year-old vines in Los Alamos comes this crisp, lovely wine, which shows nectarine, Meyer lemon spray and grapefruit peel aromas on the nose. The palate is crisp and grippy, with light stone-fruit lavors alongside crushed white rocks and a slight citrus tang. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

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Opolo 2014 Rhapsody Reserve Collection (Paso Robles). This bottling is lively on the nose in touches of caramel, red cherry, Chinese ive spice and crème brûlée. The palate is fruit forward in a candied cherry note, but cut by ginger spice and framed in a chalky, tannic structure. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $47

ZD 2016 Chardonnay (California). Big lavors and a broad, mouthilling texture help this barrel-fermented beauty stand out. Vanilla, custard and melted butter aromas lead to similarly rich lavors on the palate, where the wine feels layered and concentrated. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $42

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Piña 2014 Buckeye Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). Full bodied and rich, this wine is structured and classically aromatic in cedar, pencil and sage brush. The herbal, earthy elements are well developed and seasoned further in toasted oak, black pepper and clove. Cellar through 2034. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $99

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Peachy Canyon 2015 Bailey Zinfandel (Adelaida District). A rich expression of the grape, this single-vineyard bottling shows hearty aromas of black currant and concentrated violets. There is a chalky structure and turned loam minerality to the palate, with Indian spice, pepper and cardamom enhancing the black plum core. —M.K. abv: 14.9% Price: $38

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River’s Edge 2015 Barrel Select Pinot Noir (Elkton Oregon). This delivers rich, ripe and concentrated fruit lavors of cranberry and raspberry purée. The fruit pushes deep into the inish. It’s clean and generous, without obvious oak inluence. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $25

Angove 2014 The Medhyk Old Vine Shiraz (McLaren Vale). This is a big, beefy wine, with tart black currant, sour cherry, herbal notes and charred, savory undertones. Fine-grained tannins and more savory, herbal characters balance rich fruit on the palate. The inish is long, drying and oaky. Drink now–2028. Trinchero Family Estates. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $100

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Borgo Scopeto 2012 Misciano Riserva (Chianti Classico). Made entirely from Sangiovese, this opens with aromas of iris, sunbaked soil and a balsamic note. The irm palate delivers ripe black cherry, mocha, licorice and white pepper alongside ine-grained tannins. Drink now–2024. Vineyard Brands. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Carobbio 2014 Chianti Classico. A savory Sangiovese-based wine, with 5% Merlot, this boasts aromas of violet, moist earth and blackskinned berry. The juicy palate ofers succulent Marasca cherry, licorice, white pepper and clove alongside polished tannins. Drink through 2023. American B.D. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

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Cobblestone 2007 Cobblestone Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). A wine that is still available in limited amounts, this aged red ofers classic secondary aromas of leather, tobacco and raisin, with a seasoning of clove. Drink soon—it risks being quickly past its prime. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $65

Dry Creek Vineyard 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). This wine is predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with small amounts of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Smoky, toasted oak underlies rounded layers of blueberry, black cherry and plum, leaving the palate rich and pleasing. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

Iron Horse 2015 Deer Gate Pinot Noir (Green Valley). With a slight note of reduction and toasted oak, this wine is ultimately high-toned and high in acidity, with fresh streaks of plum and black cherry. Accents of dried herbs pepper it with additional complexity and earthiness. —V.B. abv: 12.9% Price: $85

Kendall-Jackson 2016 Vintner’s Reserve Pinot Noir (California). This is a spicy, oaky, full-bodied wine that’s alluring in aroma and rich in lavor. Hints of vanilla, nutmeg and coconut lead to broad, ripe cherry and raspberry lavors on a smooth and lightly tannic texture. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

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Castelvecchi 2015 Capotondo (Chianti Classico). A blend of 88% Sangiovese and 12% Canaiolo, this opens with aromas of iris, red-skinned berry and a hint of fresh mint. The succulent palate doles out red cherry, clove and white pepper alongside polished tannins. It’s well balanced, with bright acidity. Drink through 2023. Serendipity Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $22

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Garzón 2016 Reserva Tannat (Uruguay). A dark purple color and lush blackberry, cassis and woodspice aromas open this full-bodied Tannat. Toasty oak graces its core blackberry lavors, creating cofee and chocolate notes. On the inish, it’s peppery, full and textured. Drink through 2020. Paciic Highway Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Kendall-Jackson 2014 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This afordable red succeeds in ofering full-bodied dark cherry and black-currant lavors among an expansive palate of integrated oak and structured tannins. The inish is an extended mix of cinnamon, toast and chocolate tones. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $28


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Lange 2015 Mia Mousseux Méthode Champenoise Brut Rosé (Dundee Hills). A irst for Lange, this 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay bubbly is elegant and bone dry, with a pleasant earthy character that suggests loess and chalk. The fruit lavors are dried apple, gooseberry and grapefruit, with irst-rate length and inesse. —P.G. abv: 12.9% Price: $70

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Lava Cap 2015 Estate Bottled Merlot (El Dorado). Extra richness and depth lit this wine to a high level of quality and deliciousness. Its ripe blueberry, blackberry and dark-chocolate lavors seem layered and generous, and it ills the palate with ine-grained tannins and a full body. —J.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $24

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Maddalena 2016 Pinot Grigio (Monterey). This wine is clean, crisp and tasty. Aromas of honey, lime peel and rounded mango lead into a palate that’s zippy in bright acidity and grippy in structure. Racy mandarin zest, yellow melon and wet stone lavors carry the palate. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $20

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Marimar Estate 2016 Don Miguel Vineyard Estate Grown & Bottled Chardonnay-Albariño (Russian River Valley). Floral in aromatics—think lemongrass and jasmine—this estate-grown wine is creamy yet light in feel. The palate brings distinct lavors of crisp green apple, apricot, lime and wet stone. —V.B. abv: 13% Price: $34

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Quinta do Vallado 2015 Vallado Tinto (Douro). This wine comes from a blend of young vines and some that are more than 80 years old. A touch of wood aging adds spice and extra ripeness to the generous black fruits and acidity. It’s still youthful in nature, so drink from 2019. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

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Outlot 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Stainless-steel fermented, this is a red that’s ready to drink, blended with small amounts of Syrah and Pinot Noir. Thick, leathery, structured black fruit stars alongside dried herb and earth before a long, juicy inish. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $25

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Raeburn 2016 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This lovely and lingering white impresses from start to inish, showing a wealth of pear and peach lavors within an inviting jasmine aroma. It inishes in swit teases of wild vanilla and subtle oak. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $20

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Peachy Canyon 2015 Especial Zinfandel (Adelaida District). Plum jelly, sarsaparilla and cola aromas show on the inviting nose of this bottling. There is great freshness and liveliness to the palate, where white pepper spices up the grenadine lavors. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $40

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River’s Edge 2015 Elkton Cuvée Pinot Noir (Elkton Oregon). This is a delicious and beautifully-proportioned wine that delivers exceptional value. Concentrated cranberry and blueberry fruit takes the middle ground, and the raw-wood aromas suggest that further bottle age will soten the lavors on the inish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 15% Price: $20

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Rocca delle Macìe 2014 Riserva di Fizzano Single Vineyard Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). Made with Sangiovese and 5% Merlot, this ofers aromas of red-skinned berry, forest loor and a whif of cedar. The structured palate ofers dried black cherry, clove, licorice and mocha lavors framed in irm, ine-grained tannins. Drink through 2023. Palm Bay International. —K.O. abv: 15% Price: $40

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The Calling 2016 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This wine is lovely and expressive in stony mineral, lemon rind, apple, quince and bread. It’s medium-bodied, with a pleasant lushness that unfolds on the midpalate. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $32

The Calling 2015 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Made by Winemaker Dan Goldield, this wine is well crated and earthy. It’s a sot, gentle expression of just-picked strawberry that’s light in approach and delicate on the palate. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $37

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Rocca di Castagnoli 2015 Chianti Classico. This opens with aromas of black-skinned berries, cooking spices and aromatic herbs. On the savory palate, polished tannins and fresh acidity accompany black cherry, crushed raspberry and clove. Drink through 2022. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

V. Sattui 2015 Entanglement G-S-M (Napa Valley). This blend of 55% Syrah, 36% Grenache and 9% Mourvèdre ofers unctuous lavors of blueberry and blackberry wrapped in sweet vanilla and full-bodied ripeness. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $40

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Roth 2015 Merlot (Sonoma County). This sot, round Merlot blends in small amounts of Malbec and Syrah to ofer a powerful, full-bodied frame. It’s lengthy on the palate in tart red fruit, integrated oak and fresh acidity. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $22

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Vigilance 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Red Hills Lake County). Smooth and lavorful, this wine has plenty of pear and light herb aromas. Light spice, mineral and melon lavors ofer a good sense of layering on the palate, all leading to a generous mouthfeel and lingering inish. —J.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

Vignamaggio 2016 Terre di Prenzano (Chianti Classico). Aromas of iris, underbrush and red-skinned berry emerge from the glass. The juicy, lively palate delivers red berry, star anise and white pepper alongside smooth tannins. Drink through 2022. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

Bogle 2016 Phantom Chardonnay (Clarksburg). This giant of a wine has more than enough oaky aromas, a full body and toasty, buttery lavors that coat the palate. The vanilla, lemon zest, butter cream and grilled baguette notes are delicious, so this will be a great choice for people who like an all-out oaky style. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $18


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Scotto Family Cellars 2017 Dry Sangiovese Rosé (Lodi). This is a lively rosé, with a unique personality. It smells like fresh strawberries, thyme and mint, and tastes vividly fruity, while the mouthfeel is smooth but still crisp enough to be refreshing. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $15

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Scotto Family Cellars 2016 Anthony & Dominic Chardonnay (North Coast). A combination of spicy, fruity and savory lavors, as well as a suave texture, make this wine quite impressive. Subtle nutmeg and vanilla aromas lead to fresh pear and white peach lavors, with a touch of minerality for a tasty but not extreme personality. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $15

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William Weaver 2013 Artist Series Malbec (Columbia Valley). This wine emphasizes the variety’s savory side, with garden herb, freshly peeled orange, plum and exotic spice notes. The lavors are pure and juicy. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $16

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Bogle 2015 Old Vine Zinfandel (California). Another great value from Bogle, this wine is very polished and smooth. Blackberry and blueberry lavors abound on the full-bodied palate, with inegrained tannins. There are no rough edges, just wonderful fruitiness and light salt-and-pepper spices. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $10

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Château Peyros 2014 Tannat-Cabernet (Madiran). Under the same ownership as Château Haut-Selve of Bordeaux, this estate produces a structured Madiran. It’s a richly perfumed wine, showing great tannins as well as generous, juicy black fruits and acidity. It will be ready to drink from 2020. Baron Francois Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $15

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DFJ Vinhos 2014 Grand’Arte Shiraz (Lisboa). Part of a series of wines showcasing single grape varieties, this highlights the perfumed character of Shiraz. Richly fruity, it’s sotly textured with supple tannins and is ready to drink. Multiple U.S. importers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

BEST BUYS

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SeaGlass 2017 Rosé (Monterey County). Very pale pink in the glass, this ofers a bright, vivacious nose full of bubblegum sticks and watermelon water. The palate is grippy in texture and lively in acidity, showing delicious but light strawberry lavors. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

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Sogrape 2016 Silk & Spice (Portuguese Table Wine). This blend across diferent regions of Portugal celebrates the voyages of Portuguese explorers in the 15th and 16th centuries. It is a juicy, ripe wine, well structured and rich. With warm red fruits and balanced acidity, this smooth wine can be enjoyed now. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

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Simple Life 2016 Pinot Noir (California). This medium-bodied wine from Don Sebastiani & Sons. It has aromas and lavors of cherries, forest loor and cloves, plus a healthy streak of smoky, spicy oak. Moderate tannins give good grip on the palate and there is enough lavor concentration to ill the mouth and linger nicely on the inish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

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BUYINGGUIDE BEST BUYS

BEST BUYS

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Three Thieves 2016 Pinot Noir (California). An almost unbelievably good buy, this wine is clean, fresh and appealing. It has a toasted oak nuance in the aroma and expansive fruit and baking spice lavors that ill out the palate. Well-balanced, it displays a ripe red-cherry lavor and a fairly crisp and appetizing texture. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $8

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William Weaver 2015 Tattoo Girl Riesling (Columbia Valley). Appealing aromas of ripe peach, honeysuckle and orange rind are followed by lightly styled, of-dry fruit lavors in this wine. What it lacks in complexity it makes up for in charm and appeal. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 11.2% Price: $13

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Barefoot NV Pinot Noir (California). Light but lavorful and fresh, this wine has good varietal character, medium body and good complexity, too. Aromas of red cherry and tea lead to cherry and plum lavors, mild tannins and a bit of fresh acidity for balance. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $7

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SeaGlass 2016 Unoaked Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Simple and light aromas of cut apple and apple blossom open up with time on the nose of this bottling. There is decent grip to the sip and a strong tactile sensation, giving depth to the lavors of tuberose and poached pears. It is a solid example of unoaked Chardonnay. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

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McManis 2016 Jamie Lynn Vineyard Barbera (California). Impressive for its combination of grapy richness and spicy oak notes, this mediumbodied wine is showy and attractive. It has moderate tannins and good acidity typical of the variety. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

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Charles & Charles 2016 Cabernet SauvignonSyrah (Columbia Valley). This wine ofers savory herb and lower aromas that intermingle with plum, cassis and cherry notes. It’s full-lavored, with a punch of black currant and plum fruit that’s at once pure and appealing. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

BEST BUYS

McManis 2016 Merlot (California). Smooth and easy to drink, this medium-bodied wine has plenty of fruit lavor, with shades of vanilla and nutmeg. The texture is silky, showing a hint of tannin but overall is ripe and juicy. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

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Blue Fish 2016 Original Riesling (Pfalz). Spry and juicy, this elegant dry Riesling ofers ripe white-peach and apple lavors accented by a hint of orange blossom. Brisk acidity ofsets a satiny inish. It’s an approachable wine with wide appeal. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

Schmitt Söhne 2016 Relax Riesling (Mosel). While the nose suggests more earth and dusty mineral than fruit, there’s plenty of concentrated tangerine and quince on the palate of this juicy, semidry Riesling. Light bodied and spry on the palate, it’s an uncomplicated but tasty sip, inishing with a hint of orange blossom perfume. SchmittSöhne USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $10


SPIRITS

BEST BUYS

SPIRITS

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Undurraga 2017 U Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Dry, citrusy aromas pop on the nose of this wine. It’s more round in feel, with green fruit and herb lavors. Bell pepper and jalapeño notes show on the inish. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

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Barefoot NV Merlot (California). Spicy aromas, good concentration and an of-dry lavor make this wine robust while staying rather sot and friendly for people who don’t love aggressive tannins. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13% Price: $7

Rhum J.M VSOP (Martinique; Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). For those who like rum with a bit of sweetness to it, this honey-hued sipper ofers vanilla bean and brown sugar on the nose and palate, drying to a hot cinnamon inish smoothed by decadent hints of cocoa, espresso and hazelnut. abv: 43% Price: $50

Clément XO (Martinique; Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). Honey and orange peel aromas lead the nose. The drying palate shows vanilla, leather and chamomile tea, inishing with a burst of spice and orange peel, plus a hint of banana on the inal exhale. Aged a minimum of six years, in virgin oak and ex-Bourbon barrels. abv: 42% Price: $55

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Schmitt Söhne NV Fünf 5 Riesling (Germany). While demure on the nose, fresh Asian pear and red-apple lavors make this light-bodied, semidry Riesling approachable and easy drinking. Brisk lemon-lime acidity leads a crisp, clean inish. Drink now. Schmitt-Söhne USA. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 9% Price: $7

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Rhum J.M X.O (Martinique; Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). This tawny orange rhum ofers a mild, slightly oaky aroma. The palate opens with distinct sweetness, blossoming into brown butter and banana, then drying to clove and cinnamon sparks to close out the sip. Aged six years. abv: 45% Price: $75

Rhum J.M Gold Rum (Martinique; Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). Sip or mix this honey-hued rum. The palate opens with vanilla sweetness, then dries to dusty cocoa and clove and inishes with honey, cedar, ripe banana and black pepper. Best Buy. abv: 50% Price: $38

Clément Rhum 10 Year (Martinique; Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). A mellow caramel aroma entices on the nose. The palate sets up with oak, vanilla bean and maple sweetness, drying to lemon peel acidity and a licker of ginger heat on the inish. abv: 42% Price: $75

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Don Q Double Aged Rum Vermouth Cask Finish Rum (Puerto Rico; Serralles, Stamford, CT). This is a blend of rums aged from 5–8 years, inished for a few weeks in barrels that previously held Italian sweet vermouth. The spirit has a mild scent and light, honeyed palate accented by savory cedar, sarsaparilla and curry. The vermouth inish shows up on the close, which is laced with sweet spices and a hint of red fruit. abv: 40% Price: $50

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BUYINGGUIDE red fruit here. The palate, by contrast, is riper and richer, yielding weighty layers of black-cherry and berry lavors. The inish is long, marked by a glaze of caramelized sugar and dense mouth-coating tannins. Concentrated yet elegantly framed, it’s a wine that should hit its peak from 2025 but hold further. Rudi Wiest Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

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Rudolf Fürst 2015 Klingenberger Spätburgunder (Franken). Gorgeous rose petal and violet lorals abound in this exuberantly perfumed Pinot Noir. It’s a sultry, luscious wine, ofering rich, concentrated blackberry and black-plum lavors. Bristling acidity and irm, inely edged tannins lend four-square structure. It drinks beautifully already but should improve through 2025. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $80

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Friedrich Becker 2013 Rechtenbacher Spätburgunder (Pfalz). Crisp blackberry and mulberry lavors are tart and sprightly in this elegantly composed red. While full in body, it has a satiny weightlessness and freshness in acidity that keeps the palate invigorating. Fine-grained ripe tannins cushion a long inish. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

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Meyer-Näkel 2015 Blauschiefer Spätburgunder (Ahr). Pronounced smoke and leather persist from nose to inish in this robustly structured Spätburgunder. Black cherry and mulberry lavors are leshy and mouth illing but are ofset by ine persistent taninns and lively acidity. It’s an elegant complex wine that drinks well already but should improve through 2030 and hold longer. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

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Ökonomierat Rebholz 2015 Tradition Spätburgunder Trocken (Pfalz). Pristine raspberry, mulberry and bramble perfume this fragrant, almost airy, Spätburgunder. Luscious red-cherry and plum lavors are supple and concentrated on the palate yet spry and invigorating. Its long meandering inish is marked by hints of licorice and violet. Lovely already but sure to improve till 2025 and hold further. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $50

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Salwey 2014 Henkenberg Pinot Noir GG (Baden). Integrated notes of green herb and moss lend a savory edge to crisp red cherry and raspberry in this spry, cutting Spätburgunder. Medium bodied with ine feather tannins, it’s a lithe, lean expression of German Pinot Noir with a pleasant bite of acidity and cool, crystalline inish. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $59

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Schmitt’s Kinder 2014 Randersackerer Sonnenstuhl Tradition Erste Lage Dry Spätburgunder (Franken). Whifs of tea leaf and granite accent tart Morello cherry and plum on the nose of

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this crisp mineral-edged Spätburgunder. Vibrant and spry rather than unctuous or muscular, it peppers the palate with hits of tart, brambly berries and a irm tannic frame. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $50

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Juwel 2015 Alsheim Spätburgunder (Rheinhessen). Pristine black cherries and plums are ripe but restrained in this full-bodied Spätburgunder made by one of Rheinhessen’s new generation of winemakers, Juliane Eller. While plush and voluminous, tart twists of acidity feel invigorating and fresh. Ripe feathery tannins and hints of granite, spice and smoke accentuate a long persistent inish. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $30

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Meyer-Näkel 2015 Spätburgunder (Ahr). Fresh invigorating sour cherry and raspberry lavors are nuanced by savory hints of white mushroom and game here. It’s full bodied and forward in fruit yet neatly balanced by taut acidity and a ine feathery fringe of tannins. Drink now through 2023. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $39

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Salwey 2014 Pinot Noir (Baden). Crisp blackberry and red-cherry lavors are balanced neatly by savory complexities of smoke and earth in this elegant Pinot Noir. It’s a graceful, tautly balanced wine showcasing a fresh granitic backbone and zesty sour-cherry acidity. Sot ine tannins accentuate its approachablea spry style. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $23

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Schnaitmann 2015 Steinwiege Pinot Noir Trocken (Württemberg). Dark minerals and savory notes of herb, moss and roasted beet lend complexity to ripe blackberry and plum lavors here. It’s an approachably fruity wine balanced by fresh, zippy acidity and irm grippy tannins on the inish. Drinks well now but should hold through 2023. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

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Carl Ehrhard 2015 Rüdesheim Berg Roseneck Spätburgunder Trocken (Rheingau). Warming notes of cherry brandy and anise accent this juicy, forward Spätburgunder. Medium bodied on the palate, it’s fresh and primary, ofering loads of sunny plum and cherry lavors. Velvety tannins and crisp acidity square out a moderately long inish. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $18

SILVANER

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Rainer Sauer 2016 Escherndorfer Lump Silvaner Erste Lage Trocken (Franken). Blossomy and perfumed, this silky full-bodied Silvaner ofers loads of fragrant melon, grapefruit and pear accented by a slick vein of honeycomb. It’s a mouthilling creamy wine balanced by crisp acidity and a delicate hint of lime pith on the inish. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $70

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Hans Wirsching 2015 Iphöfer Julius-EchterBerg Silvaner GG Trocken (Franken). Plump yellow apple and grapefruit lend het to this dry full-bodied Silvaner. It’s a bold zatig wine yet ofset neatly by fresh green streaks of greengage plum and herb. Hints of smoked nut and salt linger on the inish, accented by a delicate phenolic grip. Approachable already but it should improve through 2030. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $70

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Rainer Sauer 2016 Escherndorf Am Lumpen 1655 Silvaner Grosse Lage GG Trocken (Franken). While plump and creamy, there’s a ine vein of lime acidity that lends tension to this elegant dry Silvaner. Fresh tangerine and yellow apple are dusted by savory tones of dried herb and crushed mineral complexities. The inish is long with a delicate lime-pith grip. It drinks nicely already, but should improve through 2026. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $35

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Hooked 2015 Pinot Noir (Baden). Intense black plum and cherry perfume juxtapose savory tones of smoked nuts and wet earth in this fresh and fruity yet composed wine. Plump blackfruit lavors are broad and rich but framed by brisk acidity and a trace of mineral complexity. A fantastic introduction to German Pinot that’s surprisingly easy on the wallet. Rudi Wiest Selections. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $14

Wachtstetter 2015 Dry Pinot Noir (Württemberg). Crisp cranberry and tart black cherries are vibrant in this light-bodied Pinot Noir. It’s an easy drinking, silky red wine with hints of smoke and crushed granite lending complexity to the midpalate. Fine irm tannins structure a moderately long inish. Drink now through 2023. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $21

Schmitt’s Kinder 2016 Randersackerer Pfülben Silvaner Grosse Lage GG Trocken (Franken). Unctuous and unrestrained in body, this dry Silvaner is a textural showcase balanced by vibrant lime-tinged acidity. The palate is dry, boasting crisp green-apple and melon-rind lavors juxtaposed by crushed mineral and honeycomb. Drinks beautifully already but it is sure to improve over the next decade. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $65 Schmitt’s Kinder 2016 Randersackerer Sonnenstuhl Silvaner Erste Lage Trocken (Franken). Tart tangerine acidity and a hit of white pepper lend zingy freshness to this elegant Silvaner. While dry in style with a rich mouth-illing texture, it’s also vibrantly citrusy and fruity with a long


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BUYINGGUIDE lean inish marked by lime and bitters. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $33

smoke. While lean and taut, it lingers on an invigorating stony inish. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $22

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Hans Wirsching 2016 Iphöfer Silvaner (Franken). Fleshy undertones of ripe honeydew and greengage plum are juxtaposed by smoke and crushed mineral in this elegant yet savory white. Dry in style with a full but crisply balanced proile, it inishes lean on zesty hints of lime and gooseberry. Approachable already, it should meld nicely through 2025 and hold further. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

BURGUNDY WHITE WINES

WEISSBURGUNDER

GRAND CRU CHABLIS

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Wagner-Stempel 2016 Siefersheim Weissburgunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). Restrained notes of pineapple and tart stone fruit introduce this zesty, intensely mineral white wine. It’s delicate in mouthfeel but silky and mouthwatering, lingering on notes of honey, tangerine and crushed slate. The inish is brisk and crystalline. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $39

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Wagner-Stempel 2016 Gutswein Weissburgunder Trocken (Rheinhessen). While initial notes of smoke and earth take some aeration to fade away, there’s a bounty of fresh fragrant grapefruit, pear and quince awaiting on the palate of this elegant Weissburgunder. It’s a fantastically rich, textured white wine balanced by crisp tangerine acidity and a inish that’s steely and precise. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

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Hans Wirsching 2015 Iphöfer Kalb Silvaner Erste Lage (Franken). Buoyant white-grapefruit and pear lavors are anchored against a backdrop of zesty green plum and parsley in this vivacious fruity Silvaner. While full bodied and plush in texture, it’s pert and spry with a cutting mineral inish. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $30

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Hans Wirsching 2016 Dry Silvaner (Franken). This dry light-footed Silvaner ofers tangy yellow-apple and lemon lavors elevated by whifs of blossom, honeycomb and crushed mineral. It’s a sprightly lean wine with a crisp inish. Drink now through 2021. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $22

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Michael Fröhlich 2016 Escherndorfer Silvaner (Franken). Lively lemon and tangerine acidity brighten this zingy dry Silvaner. It’s crisp and appley on the palate, accented by hints of nut, fresh herb and chamomile. This is a light bodied but sleek wine with a lingering, satiny inish. Drink now through 2023. Winesellers, Ltd. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Schloss Hallburg 2016 Dry Silvaner (Franken). While demure on the nose, zingy tangerine, green apple and yellow plum shine on the palate of this thirst-quenching dry Silvaner. It’s an exceptionally spry, feather-weighted wine but feels silky and lavish on the palate. The inish is prolonged by elegant murmurs of crushed stone and grapefruit astringency. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 11% Price: $19 Schmitt’s Kinder 2016 Randersackerer Silvaner Trocken (Franken). Zesty notes of kiwi and green apple lend a green-fruited vibrance to this mouthwatering dry Silvaner. It’s juicy and forward in style but anchored by streaks of lime acidity and fresh herbs. Hints of lightly toasted nuts linger on the inish. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $24

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Rainer Sauer 2016 Gutswein Silvaner Trocken (Franken). Dry and nervy, this light-bodied Silvaner ofers spine-tingling lime and green-apple lavors accented by notes of crushed mineral and

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Ökonomierat Rebholz 2016 Im Sonnenschein GG Dry Weissburgunder (Pfalz). Weissburgunder, or Pinot Blanc, is oten noted for its neutrality, but it is unctuously rich and textural in this wine, with invigorating strikes of white peach, lemon and lime. This is anything but neutral. Fulligured yet stately, it’s a lavish complex wine that lingers long on silken streaks of honey and waxy lemon peels. Enjoy now through 2031. Rudi Wiest Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $100 Salwey 2014 Henkenberg GG Pinot Blanc (Baden). Bold notes of smoke and struck lint recede gradually, revealing prettier tones of grapefruit, lemon and lime. Full bodied yet anchored by spine-tingling acidity, this elegant wine ofsets concentrated citrus lavors against savory tones of herb and dark mineral. Tasted in early 2018, it’s still a taut nervous wine that should meld nicely from 2023. Rudi Wiest Selections. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $54

Ökonomierat Rebholz 2016 Dry Pinot Blanc (Pfalz). Pronounced aromas of earth and smoke subside to reveal delicate yellow-apple and pear notes here. The palate is dry and vivacious, marked by crisp apple and lime lavors. The inish is zesty, ending on a revitalizing shower of crushed minerals. Rudi Wiest Selections. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $25

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2016 Les Clos Grand Cru Clos des Hospices Dans les Clos (Chablis). A small portion of the Les Clos vineyard once belonged to the charitable Hospices de Chablis. Today, this one acre is viniied apart from this producer’s other Le Clos cuvée. This is a rich wine, hinting at wood aging with intense fruit and acidity. It has a rich texture, a great balance between acidity and the ripe white and citrus fruits. Drink this wine from 2022 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $158 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2016 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). This is a rich wine, even from the normally austere Les Clos vineyard. Minerality is here, but it is surrounded by sumptuous ripe white fruits that have intense youthful acidity. It is a great wine that needs to age further, so drink from 2021. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $125

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2015 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). Even in a warm vintage like 2015, this vineyard produces the most structured of the Grand Cru wines, as this still tight, tense and mineral wine illustrates. With its steely edge and irm structure, it is still to show its rich fruit. Expect the wine to take its time and don’t drink before 2022. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $115

Domaine Billaud-Simon 2015 Les Blanchots Grand Cru (Chablis). This wine was aged for 14 months, including a period in wood that gives it richness and a smooth texture. It is concentrated, with intense citrus fruit balanced by minerality and a linty edge. The wine, from the easternmost and smallest of the Grand Crus, will age well. Drink from 2021. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine Billaud-Simon 2015 Vaudésir Grand Cru (Chablis). Now owned by the Faiveley family of Nuits-Saint-Georges, this estate is producing crisper wines than in the past. This is true of this Grand Cru that balances great acidity and crisp apple and citrus fruits with a smoother texture from oak aging. Floral and ripe, the wine will age. Drink from 2021. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $113

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Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2016 Valmur Grand Cru (Chablis). Moreau owns three acres of this, the smallest, grand cru vineyard. Delicate toast lavors beautifully enhance the great


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BUYINGGUIDE fruitiness of the wine. Bright apple, apricot and quince lavors are laced with a tight texture, toast and inal acidity. Leave this wine to mature and drink from 2021. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $117

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Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2016 Vaudésir Grand Cru (Chablis). Still a very young wine, this comes from the higher slopes of the sweep of Chablis Grand Cru vineyards. It is properly rich, permeated with intense acidity and a strong mineral texture. It has fullness, particularly in the ripe apricot, peach and lemon fruits that come together in the zesty atertaste. Drink from 2022 Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $117

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Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2015 Les Clos Grand Cru Clos des Hospices Dans les Clos (Chablis). The wine is generous, rich and full of the inest ripe citrus and apple fruits. It also has a steely edge to it, crisp with acidity and minerality. The wine comes from the one acre parcel of Le Clos Grand Cru that once belonged to the Hospices de Chablis. Drink this intense wine from 2021. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $155

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Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2015 Valmur Grand Cru (Chablis). A ripe, rounded wine, this shows the richness of the vintage while not missing out on intense acidity. The mineral texture and the concentration of the ripe yellow fruit come together in a harmonious whole while needing a little more aging. Drink from 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $105

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Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2015 Vaudésir Grand Cru (Chablis). Beautifully rich, this wine is developing well. Its ripeness with yellow-fruit lavors and layers of intense acidity are held together by the minerality, the tight and nervy edge of the wine. As it ages further, the wine will broaden and soten to give further richness. Drink from 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $105

PREMIER CRU CHABLIS

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Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2016 Vaillon Premier Cru Cuvée Guy Moreau (Chablis). Sourced from a number of plots planted in 1933 by Guy Moreau, the grandfather of the present winemaker Fabien Moreau, this wine is rich and generous while still keeping an intense streak of acidity. Yellow fruits, touches of toast and the potential for considerable aging mark out this wine. Drink from 2021. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $74

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Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2015 Vaillon Premier Cru Cuvée Guy Moreau (Chablis). In the opulent 2015 vintage, this is a particularly opulent wine. Its ripe fruits are laced with unusually prominent toastiness that needs to integrate better. The yellow fruit though is gorgeous, cut with lemon and a rounded inal texture. The wine is sourced from a number of plots planted in 1933 by Guy Moreau, the grandfather of the present winemaker Fabien Moreau. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $71

MEURSAULT

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Olivier Leflaive 2015 Charmes Premier Cru (Meursault). Who can resist a wine called Charming? This wine, in this ripe vintage, lives up to the name with its open, ripe yellow and white fruit, crisp touch of citrus and creamy wood-aging lavors. The wine shows a generous texture along with the youthful fruit. Drink from 2022. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $118

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Domaine Billaud-Simon 2015 Les Vaillons Premier Cru (Chablis). This wine is crisp, mineral and tight. Citrus, pears and crisp apple fruits give a wonderful lited character. Acidity and a steely edge add to this classic Chablis character with freshness and a crisp atertaste. Drink from 2019. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50

Domaine Billaud-Simon 2015 Vaulorent Premier Cru (Chablis). Close to the Grand Cru vineyards, this premier cru shares many of the same characteristics, including the ability to age. That’s certainly the case with this intense wine, still young and full of apricot and crisp apple fruits. A linty line cuts right through the wine, bringing out the zesty texture and acidity. Drink from 2019. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $65

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Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils 2016 Vaillon Premier Cru (Chablis). This vineyard, on the let, cooler bank of the River Serein, has produced a crisp, intensely fruity wine, with something of the steely character that marks out many Chablis. Along with that, a riper style brings out peach and pear lavors. Drink the wine soon for the fruit, although it will be even better from 2021. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $50

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Domaine Billaud-Simon 2015 Monte de Milieu Premier Cru (Chablis). Barrel aging has given this wine extra richness without losing the great fruit of the vintage. It comes from a sevenacre parcel within the premier cru, giving a ripe, full wine with citrus fruit and hints of apricots. Drink this beautiful wine from 2019. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $58

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Kirkland Signature 2015 Premier Cru (Chablis). Produced by major Chablis producer Jean-Marc Brocard for the Kirkland label, this wine a blend from diferent premier cru vineyards. It has plenty of richness to give the wine weight while never losing sight of a steely edge and acidity. It is fruity, crisp and also ripe. Drink now. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

Olivier Leflaive 2015 Poruzots Premier Cru (Meursault). Located just south of the village of Meursault, this vineyard is in the heart of the run of Premier Cru. The wine sings of Meursault, crisp, fruity with just a hint of a buttery texture and plenty of delicious acidity. It’s rich and generous, with a tight mineral texture as well. Drink from 2021. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $124 Arnaud Baillot 2016 Le Limozin (Meursault). This wine, young but with good potential, is rich, keeping its crisp character in the background. It is still taut and mineral, although that will change into some altogether riper. This generous wine should be kept until 2020. Private Cask Imports. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $110

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Domaine Berthelemot 2016 Les Tillets (Meursault). Named ater the lime trees that grew around this vineyard, this wine is structured with great minerality as well as tight citrus fruit. It has potential with its tense acidity and hints of apricot lavors. Don’t drink before 2021. Fine Terroirs LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $64

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Olivier Leflaive 2015 Meursault. A blend of many parcels, this wine brings out the character of Meursault, poised between a crisp, mineral style and something much richer. Wood aging has brought out the riper side of the wine, emphasizing apricots as much as citrus. Drink this sumptuous wine from 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $74

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Arnaud Baillot 2016 Vieilles Vignes (Meursault). A rich wine, this is spicy and creamy, with a smooth texture. It has concentration from old vines while also conveying the crisp apple and pear fruit of the vintage. It will age further, so wait until 2019. Private Cask Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $95

PULIGNY-MONTRACHET

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Olivier Leflaive 2015 Les Pucelles Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). From part of the Olivier Lelaive estate, this elegant wine comes from one of the top Premier Cru vineyards, displaying a


richness that could be Grand Cru. Cream, spice and toast contrast with intense acidity and apricot and apple fruitiness in great harmony. The wine is still young with a irm structure still in place, so don’t drink before 2023. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $200

cious to drink for its fruitiness. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $61

POUILLY-FUISSÉ

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Olivier Leflaive 2015 Puligny-Montrachet. A blend of a variety of parcels in the Lelaive home village of Puligny-Montrachet, this wine is rich while also intensely structured and mineral textured. Spice and buttered toast comes from the wood aging along with the peach and ripe quince fruits. The line of acidity that cuts through the wine adds to the complexity. Drink from 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $83

Olivier Leflaive 2015 Les Folatières Premier Cru (Puligny-Montrachet). Arguably Puligny’s most famous Premier Cru has produced a wine that is structured and taut as well as fruity. For the moment, mineral texture and great acidity are balanced by the wood-aging spice. More time will usher in the fruit to give a ripe, full wine, always with a tangy edge. Drink from 2022. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $159

Château de Fuissé 2015 Le Clos (PouillyFuissé). This wholly owned, single walled vineyard is by the Chateau de Fuissé, home of the Vincent family. From old vines, the wine is rich, concentrated and densely fruity. It is also structured, spicy from aging in mainly new-wood barrels. With acidity and crispness along with a steely texture, it will age. Drink from late 2019. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $82 Château de Fuissé 2015 Les Combettes (Pouilly-Fuissé). One of three single-vineyard wines from this historic estate, this is structured, tight and with a crisp apple and citrus character. Against this is the richness of the wine and its potential for aging. It is a taut wine while also richly fruity. Drink from 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $75

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Château de Fuissé 2015 Tête de Cru (PouillyFuissé). A blend from more than 20 individual vineyard sites, this wine is an excellent relection of the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. With a strong mineral character as well as tight acidity, it is structured, rich and intense. Drink from late 2019. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $41

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Château de Fuissé 2015 Les Brûlés (PouillyFuissé). Called Les Brûlés, the burnt, because of its full-on southern exposure, this vineyard has produced a rich style of wine in this warm vintage. The wine is toasty, creamy as well as packed with generous peach and apple fruit. This is an easy wine to drink now, although it will be even better when aged. Drink from 2019. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $75

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Château de Lavernette 2016 Vers Châne (Pouilly-Fuissé). This oak-aged wine, made from organically grown grapes, is already delicious. It has the fatness of the vintage in white wines without losing the structure and minerality of the appellation. Warm and opulent, it’s ripe with white fruits and inished with acidity. Vintage ’59 Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $48

SAINT-AUBIN

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Jean-Claude Boisset 2015 Sur Gamay Premier Cru (Saint-Aubin). This rich wine is full of spice and cream, with a sot texture. The ripe fruit with its tropical and yellow lavors is generous, cut by attractive acidity and a full-bodied atertaste. Drink from 2020. Boisset Collection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $60

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Olivier Leflaive 2015 Champlots Premier Cru (Saint-Aubin). This is one of six wines from this village made by this producer. It shows its potential for excellent white wines with its ripe, smoky character, rich yellow fruits and crisp texture. With its minerality and acidity, it will age, so drink from 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $61

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Jean-Claude Boisset 2015 En Remilly Premier Cru (Saint-Aubin). This wine is still developing and will need time to ill out. While it is crisp and light at the moment, there is great potential here. The touch of toast from wood aging gives structure and adds complexity. Drink from 2020. Boisset Collection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $56

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Olivier Leflaive 2015 Charmois Premier Cru (Saint-Aubin). Lightly touched by wood aging, this is a ripe wine, smooth although with enough acidity to allow it to age. It is generous, rich with citrus and quince fruit, loral and already deli-

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BUYINGGUIDE SOUTHWEST FRANCE WHITE WINES JURANÇON SEC

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Lapeyre 2012 Mantoulan (Jurançon Sec). Spicy, rich and now fully mature this is a fascinating wine from Jean-Bernard Larrieu. Rich in almond and smoky lavors, it has intense acidity and great concentration. Blending Petit Manseng, Petit Courbu and the rare, nearly extinct, Camaralet, this great wine is ready to drink. Charles Neal Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40

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Lapeyre 2013 Vitatge Vielh (Jurançon Sec). This wine has a gold color and delicious, lightly oxidative character. Although dry, it has a honeyed character, with tight minerality and intense acidity as a contrast. Jean-Bernard Larrieu is a proponent of the local culture so this wine, in the ancient Béarn dialect, means old vintage. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27

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Lionel Osmin & Cie 2016 Cami Salié (Jurançon Sec). Even in dry Jurançon wine, a hint of honey comes from the two Manseng grapes in the blend. Here the honey taste adds to the wine’s weight and richness. Yellow fruits, spice and pepper give ripeness and a tight edge. Drink from 2019. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $16

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Lionel Osmin & Cie 2016 Clos de la Vierge Le Carré des Pées (Jurançon Sec). This rich, spicy wine is bursting with apple and Bartlett-pear fruitiness. It has a touch of pepper, tangy acidity and a taut texture that will soten as the wine ages. Produced from 30-year-old vines in a single parcel, it needs to mature. Drink from 2019. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $16

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Lapeyre 2017 Jurançon Sec. Even as a dry wine, Gros Manseng has a touch of spice and honey that is immediately attractive. This crisp, bright and lively wine has a mineral texture, zingy acidity and a juicy atertaste. Drink from late 2018. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20

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Lionel Osmin & Cie 2015 Clos de la Vierge Le Carré des Pées (Jurançon Sec). Now in its third year, this wine has developed a characteristic honeyed accent even though it is dry. The brightness is now ripe with delicious yellow fruit, almond and spice lavors. Drink this wine now. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $16

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Château Jolys 2016 Jurançon Sec. This is a rich wine, made from the same grapes that

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make the sweet Jurançon. It has weight as well as crisp citrus lavors, rounded but with a zesty edge that gives the wine a inal lit. Drink now. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $17

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Château Jolys 2015 Cuvée Pauline (Jurançon Sec). It’s unusual to ind Petit Manseng by itself in a dry Jurançon. There is almost a sweet wine trying to get out in this superrich, lightly honeyed wine. With good acidity as well as a touch of pepper from the alcohol, it is balanced while intense and ripe. Drink the wine from 2019. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $28

CÔTES DE GASCOGNE

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Domaine Chiroulet 2016 La Côte d’Heux (Côtes de Gascogne). Named ater a nearby 13th-century church, this wine comes from a portion of the slope above the Osse river in Gascony. It is already delicious, ripe with apricot lavors and a delicate touch of honey. Dense and well balanced with acidity, it’s a great food wine. Authentique Vin. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Villa Dria 2016 Lune de Miel (Côtes de Gascogne). While this wine is certainly sweet, it is never cloying. The marvelous acidity of the Petit Manseng sees to that. It is crisp as well as honeyed, with a zesty character at the end. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $19

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Villa Dria 2017 Jardin Secret (Côtes de Gascogne). A medium-sweet wine, from one of the region’s star grapes, this has a honeyed edge along with tangy, zesty acidity. Fruit and inal crispness contrast with the sweetness. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $17

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Villa Dria 2015 Chardonnay-Gros Manseng (Côtes de Gascogne). This is an attractive wine, well poised between perfumed honey lavors and sot acidity. It is still fruity, even ater three years, with a crisp and tangy edge. The wine is just right to drink now. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $15

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Domaine d’Arton 2016 Les Deux Cèdres (Côtes de Gascogne). Like so many mediumdry wines from the Gros Manseng grape, this is crisp, full of acidity and also fresh sweetness. There is no hint of cloying in this wine that is light and bright, with a touch of honey at the end. Margron Skoglund Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

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Lionel Osmin & Cie 2016 L’Incomparable Beau Manseng (Côtes de Gascogne). White stone fruits, pineapple and light citrus lavors come together in this tangy, zesty and deliciously crisp

wine. Fruity, refreshing and perfumed, it is ready to drink now. Vintage Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $11

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Mont Gravet 2017 Côtes de Gascogne. This fruity, cool-climate wine is lively with acidity and bright citrus lavors. Crisp and zingy, it’s totally ready to drink for the summer. Winesellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $9

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Domaine d’Arton 2016 Les Hauts d’Arton (Côtes de Gascogne). A perfumed blend of Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng, this balanced wine is immediately attractive. It has lively acidity along with bright white and citrus fruits that contrast comfortably with spicy texture at the end. Drink the wine now. Margron Skoglund Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

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Domaine de Ménard 2017 Cuvée Marine (Côtes de Gascogne). Blending Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng, this wine, with its name that evokes the not-far-distant Atlantic Ocean, is fruity, ripe with green and citrus fruits and a touch of honey. It is refreshing, tangy and ready to drink. Paul M. Young Fine Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $10

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Domaine de Ménard 2016 Prestige (Côtes de Gascogne). Just of dry, this blend of Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng is intensely herbal while the obviously ripe fruits give a honey edge to the acidity and the zesty character. Drink this wine from 2019. Paul M. Young Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

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Domaine de Pajot 2016 Les 4 Cépages (Côtes de Gascogne). This blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Colombard, Ugni Blanc and Gros Manseng has created the typical fresh, crisp wine from Gascony. Light and fruity, with a bright texture and plenty of refreshing acidity, this is a wine to drink easily as an aperitif or with shellish. Vanguard Wines. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $12

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Villa Dria 2017 Côte Sauvage ColombardSauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). This blend of Colombard and Sauvignon Blanc merges herbal lavors, giving bright, tangy and zesty acidity. The wine, with its gooseberry and green-fruit lavors is so intense that it needs to soten for a few months. Wait until late 2018. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $14

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Domaine Chiroulet 2017 Terres Blanches (Côtes de Gascogne). Lightly mineral in character, this a loral blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng. At the moment, herbal lavors predominate, but give the wine a few months and the riper fruits of the Gros Manseng will come through


and give a deliciously aromatic wine. Authentique Vin. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

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Domaine de Ménard 2017 Colombard-Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). Situated in the heart of Armagnac country, this estate produces a range of crisp, fruity wines. The green fruits and herbal character of this typical local blend are refreshing, light and bright. Drink the wine now. Paul M. Young Fine Wines. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $10

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Domaine de Ménard 2017 Colombard-Ugni Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). The simple fruity blend that has made this region so popular appears here as a bright, light and crisp wine. Its herbal character adds to refreshing citrus and green-fruit lavors. Drink this wine now. Roanoke Valley Wine Company. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

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Domaine de Ménard 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). Totally herbal, this crisp wine is all about richly lavored Sauvignon Blanc. It has weight despite its low alcohol, and is full of green and citrus fruits. The cut-grass aroma sings of a summer’s day and this makes a great aperitif to drink right then. Paul M. Young Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $11

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Lionel Osmin & Cie 2016 Domaine San de Guilhem Nuit d’Automne (Côtes de Gascogne). This lightly sweet wine is equally crisp with baked apple and acidity. The honey and spice element is calm, subdued by comparison with the fruitiness and crisp atertaste. Drink the wine from 2019. Arborway Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $10

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Lionel Osmin & Cie 2016 L’Incontournable Cuvée Marine (Côtes de Gascogne). The classic Côtes de Gascogne blend of Gros Manseng, Sauvignon Blanc and Colombard gives a bright, breezy, lightly salty wine. It’s full of zest, crisp acidity and delicious fruitiness. Drink this wine now. Vintage Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $10

SOUTHWEST FRANCE RED WINES CAHORS

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Château du Cèdre 2015 GC (Cahors). This wine is powerful in its depth and concentration. Bold tannins, vibrant acidity and strong minerality combine with black plum and berry lavors. This major wine obviously needs to age. Drink from 2023. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $140

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Château Lagrézette 2015 Le Pigeonnier Malbec (Cahors). For full review see page 95. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $290

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Château Haut-Monplaisir 2015 Pur Plaisir (Cahors). New-wood aromas lead to a wine that has plenty of wood lavors and certainly needs to soten. But the great black fruits and balanced structure will see to that. This will be an impressive, rich wine, never overpowering, very much in the measured style of this estate. Drink from 2023. Vintage ’59 Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $50

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Château Lagrézette 2015 Paragon Massaut Malbec (Cahors). For full review see page 96. abv: 14% Price: $120

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Clos Troteligotte 2015 K-2 (Cahors). This is the top of the range from this organic estate. An impressive wine, it boasts rich tannins, powerful fruit and dense concentration. Black fruit lavors are laced with acidity on the irmly structured palate. This wine deserves to age, so drink from 2023. Elixir Wine Group. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $55

roir-by-terrace diferences. It has a textured character, from the density of its black fruits to its irm, still-young tannins. Expect to start drinking this smoky, intensely fruity wine from 2023. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $49

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Château du Cèdre 2015 Le Cèdre (Cahors). This is one of the top wines from this estate, a leading light in Cahors. It is structured, irm from tannins and wood aging. But the wine is also about the organically grown fruit, juicy acidity and inal blackberry lavors that form a beneicial contrast to the structure that needs to soten. Drink from 2023. Martine’s Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $60

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Château Famaey 2015 Cuvée X (Cahors). The luxury cuvée from this estate, this is almost black in color, dense in texture and tightly irm in structure. It’s a wine for aging, showing its wood lavors ater 24 months in oak. It ofers big spice, black fruits and layers of tannins at the end. Drink this powerful wine from 2023. Kinson The Future of Wine. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

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Georges Vigouroux 2016 Château de Mercuès Cuvée 6666 (Cahors). This wine, from a high-density vineyard, is as concentrated as the vines themselves. It is very young, still shaking of its immense tannins and developing the bold, opulent black fruits. The wine has power as well as great fruitiness and structure. Drink from 2025. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $50

Château Lagrézette 2015 Cuvée Dame Honneur du Château Lagrezette (Cahors). Aged for two years in wood, this wine has been named ater Marguerite de Massaut, a 16th-century owner of the estate. It comes from a single parcel, producing a powerful wine. The young tannins and black fruits are surprisingly elegant given the weight of the wine with juicy acidity and blackberry fruit. It needs to age, so drink from 2024. Curious Cork Imports LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

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Georges Vigouroux 2015 Château de Mercuès Cuvée 6666 (Cahors). The 6666 refers to the number of vines per hectare in this vineyard, and the high-density planting gives great concentration to the wine. It is packed with rich black fruits, an impressive wine with restrained power, great fruitiness as well as a strong structure. This special cuvée from the Mercuès estate needs to age. Drink from 2024. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $50

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Jean-Luc Baldès 2013 Clos Triguedina Les Galets (Cahors). This third-terrace parcel in the Baldès terroir Trilogie is clay and limestone with iron and lava deposits. The wine presents a rich medley of black fruits, ripe tannins and a powerful structure. It has concentration, ripe fruit and acidity. Drink from 2023. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $49

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Jean-Luc Baldès 2013 Clos Triguedina Les Petites Cailles (Cahors). From the iron-rich limestone in the highest vineyard terrace above the Lot river, this Baldès Trilogie wine brings out ter-

Château Lamartine 2015 Expression (Cahors). At the western end of the Cahors appellation, this estate produces some expressive wines. This wood-aged, ripe wine with polished tannins ofers elegant black fruits and acidity. It comes from a low-yielding, 12-acre parcel, aged in new wood and promising great potential. Drink this wine from 2023. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $42

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Château Vincens 2015 Les Graves de Paul (Cahors). This dense wine is named ater the gravel in the vineyard. It has intense black fruits, smoky tannins and a powerful, complex structure. The dry core is still very young and needs to come together with the peppered black-plum lavors and acidity. Give it time, it will happen. Drink from 2023. European Cellars. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

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Georges Vigouroux 2015 Château de HauteSerre Geron Dadine de Haute-Serre (Cahors). Named ater the 15th-century owner of the chateau, this wine comes from selected parcels of the estate. It is packed with youthful, ripe tannins that are just beginning to soten and melt into the swathes of

WINEMAG.COM | 117


BUYINGGUIDE black fruits. It is a powerful wine, although not one that is overbearing. Drink from 2023. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $49

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Georges Vigouroux 2015 Château de Mercuès Icône Wow (Cahors). This wine, regarded as the top wine from the Mercuès estate is massively structured, packed with dark fruits and altogether a statement wine. Produced from selected parcels on the estate, it has layers of dark tannins as well as juicy black plum and berry fruits. All of this density and concentration need to soten. Wait to drink this wine until 2024. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $130

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Jean-Luc Baldès 2013 Clos Triguedina Au Coin du Bois (Cahors). This is one of Baldès Trilogie single-vineyard wines that bring out terroir-byterrace diferences. The wine shows the rich side of Malbec from a sunny red clay-limestone plot on the second terrace. It is a powerful evocation of ripe black fruits, juicy acidity and some dense, concentrated tannins, all contained in an elegant package. Drink from 2022. Vineyard Brands. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $49

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Paul Hobbs & Bertrand Gabriel Vigouroux 2014 Crocus La Roche Mère (Cahors). The top wine in the range made in a joint venture between the Bertrand Vigouroux family of Cahors and Sonoma winemaker/consultant Paul Hobbs, this wine is hugely dense. It has powerful tannins along with opulent black fruits and serious concentration. Expect this wine to age for several more years. Drink from 2023. Paul Hobbs Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $125

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Paul Hobbs & Bertrand Gabriel Vigouroux 2011 Crocus Grand Vin Malbec (Cahors). Now fully mature, this is an impressive wine. It still has a irm mineral texture, while the powerful black fruits (and black color) are a sign that this is serious Malbec. This was one of the original launches of the top-of-the-range wine from the Paul Hobbs and Bertrand Vigouroux joint venture, linking Sonoma and Cahors. Drink this wine now. Paul Hobbs Selections. —R.V. abv: 15% Price: $125

MADIRAN

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Domaine Berthoumieu 2014 Vitis MCM (Madiran). MCM or 1900 refers to the century-old Tannat vines that give this wine concentration, richness and intensity. It is still irm, packed with tannins over the ripe black-plum, berry and licorice lavors. This is a wine to savor over many years, but don’t drink before 2022. Charles Neal Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35

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Vignobles Brumont 2014 Château Bouscassé (Madiran). From the home estate of the Brumont family, certainly the leaders in Madiran, this wine is dominated by Tannat, with additions of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The blend produces rich tannins and broadens the palate to bring in black-currant fruits, a crunchy, juicy texture as well as longevity. This wine will age and age more, but should be ready to drink from 2023. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25

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Vignobles Brumont 2014 Château Montus (Madiran). This is the latest release from this Madiran showpiece estate on steep vineyards surrounding a grand chateau. The wine is black, irm and full of tannins while allowing room for swathes of dark fruits and a bold structure. It is still in the aging process. Drink this blend of Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon from 2024. Regal Wine Imports Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

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Château Peyros 2014 Vieilles Vignes (Madiran). This powerful and dense wine has both impressive tannins and great black fruits. It is rich with black-plum-skin and dark berry lavors. The concentration of low-yield vines is lited by the acidity and inal rich fruitiness. Age this major wine and drink from 2021. Baron Francois Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

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Domaine Berthoumieu 2014 Cuvée Charles de Batz (Madiran). This is a bold, structured and irm wine, full of dark tannins and ripe fruit. It has power and a dark presence that comes from the dense texture and the dry core that is still a powerful element in the wine. That means that the wine needs to age further. Drink from 2021. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $25

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Famille Laplace 2015 Odé d’Aydie (Madiran). This is pure Tannat: big, ripe and concentrated. Its weight and richness are palpable, with swathes of black fruits as well as the impressive tannins. This wine shouts out its structure, dense texture and generous fruit. Give it space. Drink from 2022. The Wine Company. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $20

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Château Peyros 2014 Tannat-Cabernet (Madiran). For full review see page 107. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $15

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Famille Laplace 2016 Madiran Laplace (Madiran). This tannin-backed wine is irm and structured. A blend from multiple parcels, it is full of fruit cut by acidity and impressive tannins. The 15% Cabernet Franc in the blend brings its own soter perfumed character, leaving a wine that is still young but has a ine future. Drink from 2023. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Famille Laplace 2015 Laplace (Madiran). Balance is the key when a wine has richness, irm tannins and concentration. The perfume of the Cabernet Franc in the blend gives the wine attractive aromas and smooths out the solid tannins. The wine is made to showcase the Laplace family’s skills with Tannat in Madiran. Drink from 2020. Polaner Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Lionel Osmin & Cie 2016 Mon Adour (Madiran). Blending Tannat with the two Cabernets, this wine that is rich and not too irmly tannic. It’s ripe with black fruits, licorice and layers of spice and vanilla from wood aging. This succulent wine is ready to drink now. Vintage Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $15

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Domaine Berthoumieu 2014 L’Argelis (Madiran). There’s nothing shy about this almost black-colored, Tannat-dominated wine. With its rich structure and swathes of black-plum and berry fruits, it is dense and still full of tannins. Hints of bitter extraction are balanced by the smoky richness of the wine. It is still young, even at four years. Drink from 2019. Charles Neal Selections. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

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Famille Laplace 2016 Aydie L’Origine (Madiran). The third generation of the Laplace family has produced a balanced, young and structured wine. The berry lavors of the fruit are beginning to burst through those tannins, broadening it out. Wait a while before drinking, not before 2020. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

CAMPANIA FIANO DI AVELLINO

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Villa Raiano 2015 Alimata (Fiano di Avellino). Enticing scents of smoke, Spanish broom, acacia, chopped herb and ripe stone fruit slowly take shape on this elegant, compelling white. Savory, structured yet understated, the palate is all about extreme inesse, delivering nectarine, wild herb, tangerine zest and honey alongside bright acidity. A vein of linty smoky mineral throughout adds depth while toasted hazelnut accents the lingering inish. Wonderful now but will age and evolve for years. Drink through 2025. Siena Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $35

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Feudi di San Gregorio 2015 Studi Arianello (Fiano di Avellino). Citrus, wild herb and yellow ield-lower aromas delicately rise from the glass. Elegant, savory and enveloping, the palate boasts understated inesse, delivering golden apple, lemon zest and a hint of honeyed almond alongside tangy acidity. A linty note wraps up the inish.


Drink through 2025. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

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Villa Raiano 2015 Ventidue (Fiano di Avellino). Flint, Mediterranean brush, yellow spring lower, ripe orchard fruit and a whif of honey all take shape on this elegant white. The honey aroma carries over to the bright, structured palate along with yellow apple, pear, tangy, unsweetened lemon drop and toasted hazelnut. A mineral note lends depth. Drink through 2023. Siena Imports. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $35

orchard fruit and a whif nut drit out of the glass. The medium-bodied palate doles out yellow pear, Golden Delicious apple, thyme and lemon zest while hint of bitter almond closes the inish. Bacchanal Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $19

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Tenuta Sarno 1860 2016 Fiano di Avellino. Yellow spring lower, citrus blossom and white stone-fruit aromas lead the way. On the elegant linear palate, fresh acidity lits yellow pear, golden apple and a hint of honey. A hazelnut note signals the close. Caroline Debbané Selections. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Vigne Guadagno 2014 Fiano di Avellino. Smoke, dried aromatic herb, Mediterranean scrub, yellow stone fruit and a whif of toasted hazelnut aromas carry over to the linear palate along with a note of acacia honey. Fresh acidity balances the lavors while a bitter almond note marks the close. Savio Soares Selections. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $21

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Agricola Bellaria 2016 Fiano di Avellino. Aromas of toasted hazelnut, white stone fruit and spring wild lower lead the nose. The lean fresh palate ofers suggestions of yellow apple skin, smoky lint and a hint of acacia honey. Simple Wine. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

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Cantine di Marzo 2016 Fiano di Avellino. Toasted pistachio nut, acacia honey and ripe orchard fruit aromas follow over to the savory, enveloping palate along with juicy tangerine and creamy pear. A smoky mineral note lingers on the inish. Eagle Eye Brands. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

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Feudi di San Gregorio 2016 Campanaro (Fiano di Avellino). A blend of Fiano and Greco, this ofers enticing scents of Spanish broom, yellow stone fruit and wild herb. Elegant and savory, the bright palate delivers juicy white grapefruit, yellow pear and linty mineral alongside fresh acidity. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $40

Mastroberardino 2016 Radici (Fiano di Avellino). Smoke, ripe orchard fruit, acacia and honey are just some of the enticing scents you’ll ind on this stunning mineral-driven white. The elegant palate is equally compelling, ofering mature yellow apple, dried herb, citrus zest and hazelnut alongside fresh acidity. Drink through 2025. Leonardo LoCascio Selections–The Winebow Group. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $28

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Antonio Caggiano 2016 Béchar (Fiano di Avellino). Compelling aromas of pressed yellow lower, Mediterranean brush, citrus zest and smoke prove this wine’s Fiano pedigree. The aromas carry over to the elegant structured palate along with yellow apple, lemon, toasted hazelnut and a drop of honey. Fresh acidity provides balance. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

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Feudi di San Gregorio 2015 Studi Campo Aperto (Fiano di Avellino). Enticing scents of Spanish broom, acacia and honey follow over to the subtle, restrained palate along with ripe yellowapple skin, dried herb and unsweetened lemon drop. A hint of nut closes the inish. It’s still a bit austere and needs a few more years to fully develop. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

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Villa Raiano 2016 Fiano di Avellino. Aromas of smoke, Mediterranean brush, ripe

Torricino 2016 Fiano di Avellino. Smoke, yellow stone fruit and a whif of Spanish broom lead the nose. Bright and savory, the enveloping juicy palate delivers yellow apple, lemon and toasted hazelnut alongside fresh acidity and a linty note. Martin Scott Wines. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $14 Di Meo 2017 Colle dei Cerri (Fiano di Avellino). Honey, beeswax, acacia and candied citrus aromas lead the nose along with a whif of smoke. The aromas follow over to the mature rounded palate along with linty mineral and a hint of butterscotch. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

Di Meo 2003 Erminia Particella 189 (Fiano di Avellino). This spry iteen-year-old wine opens with aromas of smoky lint, mature orange rind and pressed acacia lower. The structured, medium-bodied palate ofers unsweetened lemon drop, dried pineapple and honey alongside still fresh acidity. A bitter almond note marks the close. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: NA Price: $70

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Quintodecimo 2016 Exultet (Fiano di Avellino). This has a subdued nose that eventually reveals subtle whifs of Mediterranean herb and acacia lower. The medium-bodied palate ofers toasted hazelnut, citrus zest, pineapple and honey alongside tangy acidity. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

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Villa Matilde 2017 Tenute di Altavilla (Fiano di Avellino). This opens with heady aromas of honeysuckle, jasmine and tropical fruit. On the bright elegant palate, fresh acidity lits yellow pear, grapefruit and a hint of honey while a hazelnut note closes the inish. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $21

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Di Meo 2017 Fiano di Avellino. Spanish broom, citrus and yellow stone-fruit aromas lead the nose. On the linear, rather light-bodied palate, a honeyed mineral note underscores yellow pear and grapefruit while a hint of hazelnut backs up the inish. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $20

Amarano 2016 Dulcinea (Fiano di Avellino). This opens with subtle scents of Spanish broom, yellow pear and a whif of hazelnut. It’s vibrant and linear, with bright acidity that supports yellow apple and lemon. Boutique Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Le Masciare 2016 Fiano di Avellino. Acacia, chamomile, tropical fruit and a whif of roasted nut aromas lead the nose. On the linear palate, fresh acidity brightens pear, pineapple and hints of bitter almond. Swiss Cellars. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

Manimurci 2017 Nepente (Fiano di Avellino). Subdued aromas of acacia and yellow stone fruit follow over to the linear, slightly lean palate along with hints of pineapple and chestnut honey. It closes quickly on a bitter almond note. Wine Design. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $18

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Tenuta Cavalier Pepe 2016 Refiano (Fiano di Avellino). This has delicate aromas of white spring lower and a whif of white stone fruit. The fresh light-bodied palate ofers Bartlett pear and a hint of lemon zest alongside bright acidity. Alberello Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $15

GRECO DI TUFO

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Feudi di San Gregorio 2015 Studi Fraedane (Greco di Tufo). Intriguing scents of underbrush, grilled Mediterranean herb, honey and lemon zest carry over to the palate along with ripe yellow pear and almond. A tangy saline note closes the inish. Fresh acidity provides support throughout and gives it an elegant, age-worthy structure. Drink through 2025. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

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Cantine di Marzo 2016 Greco di Tufo. Fragrant white lower, citrus and crushed stone aromas lit out of the glass. The bright delicious palate delivers juicy pear, nectarine, pineapple and a

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BUYINGGUIDE savory saline note alongside tangy acidity. Eagle Eye Brands. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $27

tarine set against bright acidity. A tangy hint of saline caps the inish. Simple Wine. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $30

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Feudi di San Gregorio 2015 Studi Bussi (Greco di Tufo). Fragrant white spring lower, ripe orchard fruit and crushed stone aromas lead the way on this vibrant white. The tangy savory palate delivers tangerine, white grapefruit, pear and white peach set against bright acidity. A savory mineral note suggesting lint lingers on the quenching inish. It’s already delicious and will continue evolve for years. Drink through 2025. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $60

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Le Masciare 2016 Greco di Tufo. White spring lower, citrus blossom, Mediterranean brush and white stone-fruit aromas lead the nose. Bright and linear, the crisp palate ofers Anjou pear, lemon zest, smoky lint and saline set against vibrant acidity. Swiss Cellars. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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Peppe Buio 2016 Astreo (Greco di Tufo). Aromas of citrus, Mediterranean scrub and orchard fruit wat from the glass. The tangy linear palate ofers juicy grapefruit, yellow apple, sage and a hint of saline set against crisp acidity. Wine Design. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $23

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Manimurci 2017 Zagreo (Greco di Tufo). This has a shy nose but the palate ofers ripe orchard fruit, citrus and a hint of honey in a glycerin-like texture. Tangy acidity provides freshness. Wine Design. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $18

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Torricino 2016 Greco di Tufo. Subtle whifs of stone fruit and citrus wat out of the glass. The light-bodied tangy palate ofers pineapple, citrus and a hint of yellow pear alongside bright acidity. Premium Brands. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $14

CAMPI FLEGREI

Feudi di San Gregorio 2015 Studi Laura (Greco di Tufo). Aromas suggesting pressed acacia, citrus blossom and mature yellow stone fruit lit out of the glass along with a whif of Mediterranean scrub. The enveloping palate delivers dried apricot, tangerine drop, fennel and tangy mineral while a hint of bitter almond wraps around the inish. Drink through 2025. Terlato Wines International. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

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Feudi di San Gregorio 2015 Studi Arielle (Greco di Tufo). Aromas of pressed acacia lower, mature orange rind and Bartlett pear lead the way on this fragrant white. The medium-bodied palate ofers ripe yellow-apple skin, toasted hazelnut and citrus alongside a linty mineral note. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $60

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Quintodecimo 2016 Giallo d’Arles (Greco di Tufo). Savory and structured, this opens with enticing scents suggesting ripe yellow stone fruit, Spanish broom and a whif of cake spice. On the round enveloping palate, fresh acidity lits juicy apricot, yellow apple and ginger while a mineral note wraps up the inish. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

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Villa Raiano 2015 Marotta (Greco di Tufo). Chopped herb, Mediterranean brush, white spring blossom and ripe citrus aromas take the lead. The bright elegantly structured palate ofers yellow pear, tangerine and energizing mineral notes set against refreshing acidity. Siena Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $35

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Di Meo 2017 G (Greco di Tufo). Citrus blossom, peach and white stone fruit aromas lit out of the glass. The juicy savory palate doles out yellow pear, apple, crushed herb and white almond alongside crisp acidity. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $28

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Agricola Bellaria 2016 Oltre (Greco di Tufo). Aromas of fragrant white lower, wild herb and a whif of tropical fruit lead the nose. The juicy palate doles out yellow pear, white peach and nec-

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Villa Raiano 2016 Greco di Tufo. Delicate scents of white lower, yellow stone fruit and citrus drit out of the glass. The bright, linear palate ofers white peach, yellow apple and a lemon note alongside tangy acidity. Siena Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $19 Donnachiara 2016 Greco di Tufo. Aromas of tropical fruit, banana and peach follow through to the palate together with citrus zest. Tangy mineral and bright acidity energize the inish. Michelangelo Selections. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA Tenuta Cavalier Pepe 2016 Greco di Tufo. This opens with aromas of white lower, white stone fruit and a whif of ripe citrus peel. The crisp palate ofers yellow apple and tangy lemon alongside vibrant acidity. Alberello Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $15

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Villa Matilde 2017 Tenute di Altavilla (Greco di Tufo). Aromas of hawthorn and tropical fruit leap from the glass. On the tangy palate, bright acidity lits ripe white peach, yellow pear and tangerine while a white-almond note marks the close. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $19

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Amarano 2016 Cardenio (Greco di Tufo). This has subdued aromas evoking spring lower and orchard fruit. The ripe palate ofers suggestions of yellow apple and pineapple alongside fresh acidity. A note of bitter almond marks the close. Boutique Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $18

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I Capitani 2017 Serum (Greco di Tufo). This has a rather subdued nose ofering hints of wild lower and citrus. On the palate, bright acidity underscores yellow apple, lemon zest and a hint of green melon while a suggestion of white almond adds interest before the quick inish. Vera Fine Wine. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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La Sibilla 2015 Cruna del Lago (Campi Flegrei). Parain, crushed rock, crushed Mediterranean herb and citrus aromas come to the forefront. Linear and savory, the bright, elegant palate ofers citrus zest, apricot and nectarine alongside tangy acidity. A saline note lits the inish. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $30

La Sibilla 2016 Falanghina (Campi Flegrei). Inviting aromas of Mediterranean brush, yellow peach and pineapple follow over to the tangy palate along with lemon and crushed fennel. It’s fresh, with bright acidity while a savory saline note backs up the crisp inish. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $18 La Sibilla 2016 Piedirosso (Campi Flegrei). Aromas of smoke, strawberry and raspberry follow over to the young fruity palate along with hints of star anise and linty mineral. It’s savory and easy drinking, with bright acidity and supple tannins. Drink through 2019. Oliver McCrum Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

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Salvatore Martusciello 2016 Sette Vulcani Falanghina (Campi Flegrei). Planted on original rootstocks, this vibrant linear white shows lair and inesse. It opens with aromas of sea breeze, wet stone and orchard fruit that carry over to the racy palate along with pear and lemon. Crisp acidity provides the backbone while a tangy saline note backs up the inish. Michael R. Downey Selections. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $18

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Cantine Astroni 2016 Colle Imperatrice Falanghina (Campi Flegrei). Aromas of sea brine, brimstone, crushed rock and citrus lead the nose. Light bodied and linear, the fresh palate ofers lemon-lime, yellow pear and a savory hint of saline alongside bright acidity. The Vine Collective. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

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Contrada Salandra 2015 Falanghina (Campi Flegrei). Aromas of sea brine and citrus lead the nose. The linear light-bodied palate shows bit-


ter almond, ripe yellow apple skin, thyme and saline. David Bowler Wine. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA

of crushed oyster shell graces the inish. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

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Cantine Astroni 2015 Vigna Astroni (Campi Flegrei). Acacia, beeswax, saline and brimstone aromas delicately lit out of the glass. It’s light bodied and rather lean, ofering hints of lemon, tangerine zest and a salty note of saline set against vibrant acidity. The Vine Collective. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $23

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San Salvatore 1988 2016 Calpazio Greco (Paestum). Intriguing aromas evoking sea brine, Mediterranean scrub, mature citrus zest and a hint of pineapple follow over to the racy palate along with yellow apple and a hint of hazelnut. Vibrant acidity and a tangy saline note give it a crisp, savory inish. Banville Wine Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA

San Salvatore 1988 2017 Vetere Aglianico Rosato (Paestum). Made entirely with organically farmed Aglianico, this juicy vibrant rosato doles out wild red berry, citrus and whitepeach lavors. It’s crisp, with bright acidity while a hint of wet stone accents the tangy inish. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 12% Price: $NA San Giovanni 2016 White (Paestum). A blend of 85% Fiano and 15% Greco, this opens with delicate scents evoking Spanish broom, honey and a whif of cake spice. On the vibrant, linear palate, crisp acidity boosts Golden Delicious apple and a citrus zest note. Indie Wineries. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $24

SPAIN FORTIFIED WINES

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San Salvatore 1988 2015 Elea (Paestum). The striking nose ofers sea breeze, tropical fruit, toasted nuts and a whif of Mediterranean scrub. The elegant palate doles out pineapple, ripe yellow apple, peach and citrus alongside bright crisp acidity and a hint of saline. A cofee note lingers on the close. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA

PEDRO XIMÉNEZ

balanced Sherry. Its nutty, chocolate, mocha and almond lavors inish like a good cup of cofee. Halby Marketing. —M.S. abv: 17% Price: $14/375 ml

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Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Cream Sherry. Piercing apricot and peach aromas ofer a live-wire start to this cream Sherry. On the palate, high acidity cuts through any thickness. Chocolate, canned peach and apricot lavors run deep into the inish, with tofee and mocha accents. Cordelina Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 18% Price: $30

OLOROSO SHERRY

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Lustau NV Emperatriz Eugenia Very Rare Oloroso Sherry. This dry Oloroso’s swoon worthy nose of warm maple frosting and pecan pie is for dessert lovers. It’s fresh on the palate, balancing weight and restraint with aplomb. Salty, briny, nutty lavors of green olive turn toastier and darker on its almond-inlected inish. This is top-notch dry Sherry to enjoy now and forever. Drink through 2060. Europvin USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 20% Price: $35/500 ml

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San Giovanni 2016 Tresinus Fiano (Paestum). Made entirely with Fiano, this has aromas of hazelnut, acacia, dried herb and wet rock. The bright elegant palate delivers yellow apple, golden pear, toasted almond and linty mineral set against bright acidity. It closes on a honeyed note. Indie Wineries. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $33 San Giovanni 2015 White (Paestum). Enticing scents of hawthorn, Spanish broom, Mediterranean brush and a whif of the sea escape out of the glass. On the palate, linty mineral accents yellow pear, citrus and a honey note while toasted hazelnut graces the close. Indie Wineries. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $46

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San Salvatore 1988 2016 Pian di Stio Fiano (Paestum). Delicate aromas of toasted hazelnut, citrus peel and wild lower lit out of the glass. The linear elegant palate delivers crushed herb, yellow apple, almond and savory mineral set against crisp acidity. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $NA

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San Salvatore 1988 2016 Trentenare Fiano (Paestum). You’ll ind delicate scents of acacia, honey and hazelnut on this savory mediumbodied white. The elegant rounded palate ofers ripe yellow pear, tangy tangerine and white almond alongside fresh acidity. A mineral note reminiscent

Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oxford 1.970 Pedro Ximénez. For full review see page 96. Editors’ Choice. abv: 17% Price: $21/500 ml Bodegas Barón NV Xixarito Pedro Ximénez. This wine’s ig, date, prune and honey aromas are rich and heady. It has a lush, chewy mouthfeel and honeyed lavors of pastry, chocolate and cream. On the inish, those lavors peel away little by little; it’s like dessert in a glass. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $30 Bodegas Yuste NV Aurora Pedro Ximénez. This wine’s raisin and dried plum aromas lose focus and turn grassy. There’s a ine line between syrupy and rich, and this is more of the former. Chocolate is the main lavor, with the inish tasting like chocolate mousse. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $18

CREAM SHERRY

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Lustau NV Deluxe Cream Capataz Andrés Sweet Sherry. This is brown-gold in color, its maple, chocolate and raisin aromas extending onto the smooth, layered palate. Toasty chocolate, vanilla and cofee lavors are ribbed with acidity; they carry through a sweeter inish, where dried ig and date notes take over. Europvin USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 20% Price: $20

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Pemartín NV Cream Sherry. Smooth, rich and easy on the palate, this is a delicious,

Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Élite Oloroso Medium Sherry. For full review see page 99. abv: 18% Price: $30

Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Imperial Oloroso VORS Sherry. Aromas of talcum powder, maple syrup and dried fruits are sweet and less than complex. High acidity creates a high pitch to the palate. Salted peach and apricot lavors are intense, while this is angular and packed with core acidity on the inish. Drink through 2050. Cordelina Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 19.5% Price: $125 Lustau NV Oloroso Don Nuño Dry Sherry. Tofee and baked brown sugar aromas provide a nice opening in this wine. It’s fresh and fearless, with popping acidity and layered lavors. Salty dried apricot and orange notes end with a dash of brine and a pecan hint. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 20% Price: $25

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Bodegas Barón NV Xixarito Oloroso Sherry. This funky Oloroso has a cofee color and cheesy prune and dried fruit aromas. It’s less than polished but quite honest, with a tight, drawing palate illed with nutty, salty lavors, acidity and power. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 17.5% Price: $30

PALO CORTADO

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Lustau NV Almacenista Cayetano del Pino y Cía Palo Cortado de Jerez. The color of tanned leather, this limited production Palo Cortado from the almacen Cayetano del Pino is backed by dusty apri-

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BUYINGGUIDE cot and honey aromas. Classy from irst pour, it’s is reined but also full bodied on the palate, with integrated dried white fruit and roasted nut lavors that take a long ride into the inish. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 21% Price: $35

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Lustau NV 30 Years Old Palo Cortado VORS. High-toned apricot and cheese aromas open this raisiny Sherry. A blend of old stocks, it’s piercing and almost electric-feeling on the palate, without much body. Narrow orange and apricot lavors inish with tension and power but no discernible elegance or smoothness. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 20.5% Price: $100

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Lustau NV Palo Cortado Península Dry Sherry. A smooth blend of chocolate, ig and smoky oak aromas leads to a full palate that includes waves of citric acidity. The lavors quickly move from dry citrus to mushroom and toasted hazelnut. With its malty inish, this makes you want to sauté something while drinking it. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 19% Price: $25

MANZANILLA-SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA

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Bodegas Barón NV Xixarito Pasada en Rama (Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda). This full-bodied Manzanilla’s pine and stone fruit aromas are lively and precise. On the palate, dry citrus and apricot lavors roll out nicely over a irm and balanced inish. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $25

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Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Riá Pitá (Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda). This wine’s precocious nose includes nutty stone fruit and talcum powder aromas. Its full yet fresh palate is rich, with salted dried apple and peanut lavors. It inishes on a base note of salted nuts. Cordelina Wine Company. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $12/500 ml

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La Guita NV En Rama Palomino (ManzanillaSanlúcar de Barrameda). This wine’s green banana and nut aromas are rather basic. Blazing acidity creates sharpness on the palate, infusing limited the lavors with a tanginess. A light note of walnut oil sotens its otherwise angular inish. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $15/375 ml

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Herederos de Argüeso NV San León Palomino (Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda). This round, creamy and oxidized wine has dusty, resiny aromas suggesting almond and pine. Its salty citrus and banana lavors are earthy and lighty vegetal on the inish. Classical Wines. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $NA/500 ml

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PORTUGAL WHITE WINES

keeping a sense of structure and texture. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

DÃO

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Fontes da Cunha 2015 Munda Encruzado (Dão). The star grape, Encruzado, is in full low in this ripe wine. Balancing the wood aging with rounded yellow fruits, the wine is both fruity and impressively rich. Still young, it is deinitely worth waiting for. Drink from 2019. Ecosur Group, LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

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Global Wines 2014 Paco dos Cunhas Vinha do Contador (Dão). The 60% of Encruzado in the blend makes this smoothly textured, perfumed wine what it is. The grape gives a poised mix of richness and crisp spice and citrus fruits. Textured and tangy, the wine is ready to drink. Best Beverage Corporation. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35

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Fontes da Cunha 2016 Mondeco Branco (Dão). With its blend including Encruzado, this richly impressive wine is ripe and creamy. Filled with white fruits, acidity and spice, it is developing well but should age further. Drink from 2019. Ecosur Group, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

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Global Wines 2016 Cabriz Reserva Branco Encruzado (Dão). This is a beautiful wine, impressively bringing out the rich, creamy, yellowand white-fruit lavors of Encruzado. A great value, it’s ripe, lightly herbal and ready to drink. Best Beverage Corporation. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $11

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Quinta da Mariposa 2016 Mariposa Encruzado (Dão). A little wood aging never did Encruzado any harm. Here, it brings out the rich creaminess of the wine along with toastiness. Just enough acidity adds a crisp edge without detracting from the richness. Drink from late 2018. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22

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Quinta da Mariposa 2014 Sombrio Lucia Freitas (Dão). Rich both in fruit and in toast lavors, this wine is mature, with rich spice, almonds and hints of more youthful yellow and apple fruits. A ripe wine, it keeps plenty of mineral acidity and great concentration. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

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Quinta da Mariposa 2015 Mariposa Encruzado (Dão). Lightly wood aged, this spicy and yeasty wine is rich and smooth. The yellow- and white-stone fruits give the wine ripeness while also

Quinta da Mariposa 2013 Bebes Comes Lucia Freitas (Dão). Deinitely mature, this woodaged wine shows an oxidative character once traditional in Portuguese white wines. As a return to the past, the wine is full of character and works well. Drink this fascinating wine now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Fontes da Cunha 2016 Quinta do Mondego Branco (Dão). This crisp, fresh wine is a blend of Encruzado and Gouveio. Bright citrus fruits are smoothed out by a ripe character while still lited by acidity. The wine is ready to drink. Ecosur Group, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

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Messias 2016 Quinta do Penedo Encruzado (Dão). Getting its mineral texture from the granite soil of the vineyard, this wine is taut and nervy as well as fruity. It has plenty of acidity and crispness along with citrus lavors and a bright atertaste. Drink the wine now. Luiz’s Grocery and Liquors. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $12

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Castro de Pena Alba 2016 Serrado Branco (Dão). This simple, fruity wine is an attractive blend that includes Malvasia and Cerceal, giving a delicate perfumed character. The wine is bright, fruity, crisp and ready to drink. Vidalco International, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $7

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Quinta da Mariposa 2014 Mariposa Branco (Dão). Showing the richness of Encruzado while also giving space to perfumed Cerceal and Malvasia, this is a mature wine, ripe and full of yellow fruits that have been sotened with the four years’ aging. Drink this wine now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

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Quinta da Mariposa 2015 Mariposa Branco (Dão). Cerceal, Encruzado and Malvasia give a perfumed, rich wine with good acidity and plenty of fragrant fruitiness. White fruits are cut with a refreshing citrus streak, leaving a bright atertaste. The wine is ready to drink. Aidil Wines/ Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

LISBOA

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Quinta do Monte d’Oiro 2016 Madrigal Viognier (Lisboa). Lightly wood aged but with its fruitiness intact, this ripe wine conveys yellowfruit lavors. Acidity and minerality dominate the touches of toast and the creamy, vanilla texture.


This rich, intense wine needs to develop. Drink from 2019. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45

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Quinta do Pinto 2014 Grand Escolha (Lisboa). This seriously wood-aged wine is rich and smoothly textured. The initial fruitiness has dissipated to leave a broad wine with almonds as well as a creamy texture. The wine is full bodied and dense, ready to drink now. Cru Selections. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $32

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Companhia das Quintas 2015 Quinta de Pancas Reserva Arinto (Lisboa). This is a delicious wine, crisp, fragrant and poised. Lisboa is the Arinto’s home region and it shows in the cool character of the wine and the way the wood aging is so well integrated. It is ready to drink. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $40

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Adega Mãe 2016 Copo 3 Branco (Lisboa). Full of apricot and pineapple, this is a ripe, full-bodied wine. It has great acidity as well as fruitiness, giving a wine that is refreshing, with an almond character and a inal zing of freshness. Drink now. Frontier Wine Imports. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12

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Casca Wines 2017 Cascas Branco (Lisboa). From an attractive blend that includes 30% Chardonnay, this is a sot, rounded wine. The cool, crisp edge relects the region’s ocean inluence. It has refreshing immediate drinkability. Laurel Importers. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $10

TEJO

refreshing wine, lively and with a crunchy, delicious atertaste. Drink now. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $14

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Quinta da Alorna 2016 Portal da Aguia Branco Fernão Pires-Moscatel (Tejo). A blend of Moscatel and Fernão Pires, this is perfumed and light, with acidity and spiced-pear lavors. It’s fragrant, brightly textured and ready to drink. American B.D. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $8

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Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2017 Lagoalva Tahão 1 (Tejo). Five grapes go into this satisfying blend. It is sot, juicy and still developing. Citrus acidity meets warmer white fruits in this balanced wine. Drink from late 2018. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

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Quinta do Pinto 2016 Estate Collection (Lisboa). This wine is all fruit, ripe and smooth. The only outsider in the blend of ive grapes is Roussanne, which gives a rich, creamy character. The wine is generous, full of fruit and ready to drink now. Cru Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Adega Mãe 2016 Alvarinho (Lisboa). This ripe, perfumed wine is a far cry from the Alvarinho of Vinho Verde. But it does still have a core of acidity and a mineral texture that is present in the northerly region. Fruitiness is balanced by a tight texture and a creamy character. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

Adega Mãe 2016 Viosinho (Lisboa). One of a pair of limited-production, single-varietal white wines, this is ripe, showing a side that is only slightly mineral. It is more about crisp fruit, with a strongly perfumed character along with a cool, fresh atertaste. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Companhia das Quintas 2015 Quinta de Pancas Reserva Chardonnay (Lisboa). This rich wood-fermented wine is intensely perfumed as well as ripe and creamy. Acidity balances the toast and white stone fruits, giving a fresh character and fullbodied atertaste. Drink the wine from 2019. Hungaricum LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $40

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Parras Vinhos 2015 Escondido Branco (Lisboa). All bright fruit, this spicy wine comes from the heart of the Lisboa region. Its acidity is tempered by white fruits and a hint of maturity that gives a yeasty character. Drink this wine now. Grape2Glass. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

Quinta da Alorna 2015 Marquesa de Alorna Grande Reserva Branco (Tejo). This rich, wood-aged wine is named ater Marquesa de Alorna, the famous 18th-century poet and politician. The wine with its toast and stylish white fruits and acidity is a ine homage to a major igure. Drink the wine from 2019. American B.D. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $25

Quinta do Casal Branco 2016 Falcoaria Old Vines Fernão Pires (Tejo). This is a ripe and concentrated wine, full of white and citrus fruit. With layers of wood-aging toastiness, the wine has a smooth, polished character while keeping its crisp edge. This is a young wine still and worth aging. Drink from 2019. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 Fiuza 2017 Alvarinho (Tejo). This wine retains much of the natural crispness of the grape, keeping the citrus lavors and tight, mineral acidity. It’s attractive, very fruity and ready to drink from late 2018. Votto Vines Importing. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2017 Lagoalva Vinho Branco (Tejo). A perfumed, crisp wine, this blends Alvarinho and Verdelho—one bringing the crisp texture, the other the perfume. It is an easy-drinking wine, with a citrus tone and bright acidity. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

Quinta da Lapa 2016 Reserva (Tejo). This sot wine is creamy and smooth thanks to the 35% of Chardonnay in the blend. Viognier and Arinto add perfume and some crispness. Packed with fruit, the wine is ready to drink. D’Ouro Vino Selections. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Quinta da Lagoalva de Cima 2017 Espirito Lagoalva Sauvignon-Arinto (Tejo). Fruity, herbal and cool, this wine is light, citrus lavored and easy to drink immediately. It has a zesty texture and plenty of refreshing inishing acidity. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

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Quinta da Alorna 2016 Portal da Aguia Branco Arinto-Fernão Pires (Tejo). Fernão Pires and Arinto make for a tightly crisp wine, fruity and packed with acidity. The lively texture and zingy character of the wine give it a great lit. Drink now. American B.D. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

AUSTRALIA RIESLING

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Wines & Winemakers 2016 Companhia das Lezírias 1836 Grande Reserva Fernão Pires (Tejo). Spicy, wood aged and sotly creamy, this ripe wine is smooth with spice as well as yellow fruits. Named ater the year in which the estate was created by a queen of Portugal, the wine comes from the north of the Tejo region. It is ready to drink. Specialty Wines & More. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $69

Grosset 2017 Polish Hill Riesling (Clare Valley). From one of Australia’s most lauded Riesling producers, this wine is from the cool, laterripening 2017 vintage which seems to be a triumph for the region and variety. The delicate nose chimes with the echoes of lime blossoms, peach skins, lavender, talcum powder and a touch of honey (despite being bone dry on the palate). Bright, twinkly acidity is balanced by a slippery yet linear texture and a long, stoney inish. Drink now–2038. Hudson Wine Brokers. Cellar Selection. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $52

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Fiuza 2017 Babu (Tejo). Lightly mineral in texture, this tangy, zesty wine ofers good acidity as well as citrus and green apple fruits. It’s a

Kilikanoon 2016 Killerman’s Run Riesling (Clare Valley). With a majority share of the business recently bought by the largest wine com-

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BUYINGGUIDE pany in China, Changyu, Kilikanoon’s production is set to double in the coming years. This 2016 vintage embodies so much of what is enjoyable about Clare Riesling with a wee bit of bottle age: Lime blossoms, honey, petrol and a toasted nut character are cloaked in a beautiful slippery texture, with bright acidity, zingy citrus, apple, white pepper and just a touch of residual sugar. Drink now–2030. Old Bridge Cellars. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $20

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Grosset 2017 Springvale Riesling (Clare Valley). This wine expresses bright yet dainty lime zest, loral and talc characters. The palate is ine and focused, with crisp, bright, citric acidity and a wet stone minerality. Watch this little beauty morph with time. Drink now–2033 at least. Hudson Wine Brokers. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $42

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Jim Barry 2017 The Lodge Hill Riesling (Clare Valley). This bottling ofers a delicate nose of peach, lime blossom and white pepper followed by a palate that is tight and focused, with mouthwatering acidity, chalky minerality and a long lime and apple inish. Negociants USA, Inc. —C.P. abv: 12% Price: $19

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Jim Barry 2017 Watervale Riesling (Clare Valley). Relecting the wet, cool 2017 vintage, this Riesling ofers herbal notes of white pepper, stalks and green leaves backed by just a hint of citrus. It’s the palate that’s most engaging, starting out tightly wound with laser sharp acidity and becoming more juicy and citrus-focued on the back palate. Negociants USA, Inc. —C.P. abv: NA Price: $20

ROSÉS

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Airlie Bank 2017 Gris Fermented on Skins Rosé (Yarra Valley). Made from Pinot Gris fermented for weeks on its skins, this is an unusual rosé—and not just because it’s technically not a rosé at all, but an orange wine. Unlike most pink sippers that are made to be knocked back, this is a thinking woman’s wine. The nose is a heady blend of ripe watermelon, peach, pressed red lowers and shitake mushrooms. The palate is all at once creamy, tangy and salty, with lavors of watermelon rind, ginger candy and cocktail bitters. Geek out with your wine-loving friends on this quirky little beauty. Little Peacock Imports. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12% Price: $22

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Alkoomi 2017 Rosé (Frankland River). This rosé ofers both complexity and drinkability with its aromas of raspberry leaf tea, grapefruit and white pepper. The heady combo follows through on the palate which shows a touch of tannins balanced by delicate acidity and a wild herb inish. Pair with a wide variety of spring and summer dishes or sip

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on its own in the sunshine. Little Peacock Imports. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $17

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Delinquente 2017 Pretty Boy Nero d’Avola Rosato (Riverland). This little pink number encompasses much of what makes rosé such a popular category at the moment: Be it the burst of ripe red fruits or the delicate balance of mouthwatering acidity and slightly creamy texture. Bring this bottle to a summer barbecue and watch it get drained at frightening speed. Hudson Wine Brokers. —C.P. abv: 11.5% Price: $22

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Turkey Flat 2017 Rosé (Barossa Valley). Ballerina pink in hue, this light, pretty rosé is uncomplicated, with notes of ripe red berries, refreshing acidity and just the slightest hint of sweetness. Knock back with shellish or a fresh, fruit salad on a hot summer’s day. American Estates Wines, Inc. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $20

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Yalumba 2017 The Y Series Sangiovese Rosé (South Australia). Medium pink in hue, notes of red fruits, blossoms, watermelon and rhubarb mingle on the nose, while the palate feels lean yet rich all at once. It’s also bone dry, despite the abundance of more ripe watermelon lavors. A simple, drink-now sipper. Negociants USA, Inc. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $13

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Yalumba 2012 The Tri-Centenary Grenache (Barossa). From the oldest plot of the TriCentenary vineyards (1889), of which just 820 vines remain, this Grenache is an inky-hued, dense version of the variety, swimming with plush, almost raisiny blackberry fruit, cola, dusting polish, mocha and spice. The full-bodied palate ofers more rich, dark fruit and tight-grained, dusty tannins. This is a classy drop and should age beautifully through 2028. Negociants USA, Inc. Cellar Selection. —C.P. abv: 14.1% Price: $56

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Kay Brothers 2016 Basket Pressed Grenache (McLaren Vale). This is a solid, mediumbodied expression of the variety that McLaren Vale excels at. Aromas of ripe blue and black fruits, vanilla and cola are laced with sweet spices. The palate is lean and tightly wound from dusty tannins but with enough juicy fruit to prop them up. Quintessential Wines. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Thorn Clarke 2016 Barossa Trail Saleyards Road Grenache (Barossa Valley). A relatively rich style of the variety, there’s plenty going on in this wine: The nose is a heady mix of blueberries, plums and cranberries, along with Dr. Pepper, sweet spice and a green herbal tinge. The palate is medium bodied although there’s no shortage of ripe plummy fruit. Kysela Père et Fils. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

RED BLENDS

GRENACHE

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Paxton 2016 Grenache (McLaren Vale). This is a heady and complex Grenache from a single block of bush vines. The nose ofers a potpourri of dried lowers, red berries and cranberries backed by a meaty, earthy core. The palate is tightly structured, with sandy yet silky tannins and a long, savory inish. Drink now–2030. Little Peacock Imports. —C.P. abv: 14% Price: $35

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Turkey Flat 2016 Grenache (Barossa Valley). This is a pretty, lited, light- to mediumbodied style that erupts with aromas of ripe cherries, baking spices, red licorice and rose petals. The palate is juicy in feel, with tight-grained tannins and a long, savory inish. American Estates Wines, Inc. —C.P. abv: 15% Price: $36

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Wirra Wirra 2016 The Absconder Grenache (McLaren Vale). This wine ofers all of the sleekness and complexity you’d hope from a top tier wine. It’s dripping in tones of juicy, ripe strawberry, rhubarb and blueberry jam, along with violets, warm spices and some earthiness at its core. Texturally, there are no hard edges here. Sot and supple, some silky tannins and a delicate line of acidity are there, but only enough to rein in all that plush fruit. Drink now–2033. Negociants USA, Inc. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $66

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Glaetzer 2015 Anaperenna (Barossa Valley). The next tier down from Ben Glaetzer’s top wine, Amon-Ra, this Shiraz-dominant blend is every bit as good, riding a line between power and elegance. The nose is like dessert in a glass: Tangy raspberry and red cherry swirled with licorice, mint, resin and raisins. Silky yet irm tannins lead on the palate, balanced by plush, juicy red fruit, black olives and a long, savory inish. Drink now– 2030. Wine Trees. Cellar Selection. —C.P. abv: 15% Price: $86

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Hickinbotham 2014 The Peake CabernetShiraz (McLaren Vale). Heady aromas of black currant, rhubarb, old library books and Chinese ive spice are backed by an earthy spine. The palate of this full-bodied wine is a lovely balance of richness and restraint, with earthy, savory elements ensconced in velvety, ine-grained tannins. Enjoy with Moroccan lamb. Majestic Imports. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $150

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Heartland 2014 One (Langhorne Creek). Made by renowned Barossa winemaker Ben Glaetzer, this is a dense, potent wine that explodes with vegetal and savory aromas of mushrooms, soy sauce, Middle Eastern spices, tar, wet earth, and, of course, plenty of blue and black fruit. The palate is equally bountiful with plush blackberries and


chewy, savory tannins. Big red lovers could drink this now with protein, but it’s best to give it a few years in bottle at least. Drink 2020–2038. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —C.P. abv: 15.5% Price: $95

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Elderton 2013 Ode to Lorraine (Barossa Valley). This medium- to full-bodied wine ofers ripe, almost candied, fruit notes of watermelon, strawberry and rhubarb, along with warming vanilla, chocolate and black olive characters. The ripe, juicy fruit leads the way on the palate, while sinewy tannins and a savory, olivey inish keep things interesting. Drink now–2028. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $55

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Hentley Farm 2014 H-Block (Barossa Valley). In Hentley Farm’s characteristically muscular style, this Shiraz dominant blend shows notes of ripe dark fruit, dusting polish, vanilla and notable oakdriven spices. The rich, full-bodied palate comes with irm, chewy tannins, juicy fruit and a savory inish. In it for the long haul, this wine needs to be cellared for the next few years at least. Drink 2020– 2038. Hentley Farm (US). Cellar Selection. —C.P. abv: 14.8% Price: $NA

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Penfolds 2015 Bin 389 Cabernet-Shiraz (South Australia). More approachable now when compared to some of Penfolds’s other top wines, Bin 389 is an almost 50-50 blend of Cabernet and Shiraz. A ireside sipper built to woo big red lovers, the nose is a comforting mix of dark berries, chocolate cake and dusting polish, while the palate is rich but structured, with lavors of plush cherries and dark chocolate nibs. A dusting of spicy tannins marks the close. Treasury Wine Estates. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $69

WASHINGTON CABERNET FRANC

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Structure 2015 Foundation Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). Stillwater Creek, Upland, Boushey and Destiny Ridge vineyards comprise equal parts of this 100% varietal wine. Light in color, it has pleasing aromas that suggest dried and fresh herb, along with toasty spice, cherry and moist earth. Full, luscious, pure cherry lavors are followed by a lingering inish. It’s a winner. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $38

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Structure 2015 Piloti Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This wine is a blend of fruit from Destiny Ridge, Stillwater Creek, Boushey and Upland vineyards. Fragrant aromas of lower, cherry and green herb lead to a focused, lavorful palate. With the oak inluence pleasantly dialed back, it’s a superb value. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $27

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Dusted Valley 2015 Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This combines fruit from Southwind, Sconni Block and Stone Tree vineyards. The aromas are light out of the gate, with barrel spice, fresh herb, black cherry, cofee and mineral notes that become more prominent over time. Concentrated fruit lavors are backed by irm, grippy tannins. The structure is impressive. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $42

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Structure 2015 Boushey Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley). Aged in onceused and older French oak, this leads with aromas that draw you into the glass: dried and fresh herb, cherry, tobacco, lower and dark raspberry. The dark fruit lavors display concentration and depth, with a texture that heightens the appeal. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $35

RED BLENDS

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W.T. Vintners 2015 Boushey Vineyard Rhône Blend (Yakima Valley). Equal parts Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, this was aged in neutral oak. Its aroma intoxicates with piercingly pure chopped parsley, green olive, dried lower, bacon fat, red plum, white pepper, smoke and moist earth notes. The lavors live up to the hype; they’re lithe and light but full of fruit and savory notes, culminating in a bacon fat- and fresh herb-inlected inish. It drinks well now but should only improve with time in the bottle. Best ater 2021. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Dusted Valley 2014 BFM (Columbia Valley). This is made from 82% Merlot, with the balance Cabernet Franc (14%) and Petit Verdot from Southwind, Stone Tree and Dionysus vineyards. Raspberry compote, fresh lower and barrel spice aromas lead to full-bodied, no-holds-barred fruit lavors that coat the palate from end to end, backed by lightly grainy tannins. The style is ripe and rich, but so is the vintage it comes from. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $53

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Muret-Gaston NV Red (Red Mountain). This wine is a blend of 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Petit Verdot and 31% Syrah. Its ripe black cherry, dried herb and barrel spice aromas are appealing. They lead to concentrated, textured fruit lavors with enough tannin to go the distance. It has a high yum factor. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

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Paplow 2014 Boushey Vineyard G-S-M (Yakima Valley). This inaugural release from Ben Paplow, assistant winemaker at Gorman Winery, is a blend of 67% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 9% Cinsault and 4% Viognier—all cofermented and aged in neutral oak. Its blackberry jam, white pepper, lower and orange rind aromas are followed by smooth, polished fruit and meat la-

vors. It displays a lot of purity and inesse. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $30

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Co Dinn 2015 Red Wine Lonesome Springs Ranch Vineyard G-S-M (Yakima Valley). This Syrah-dominated blend has ripe raspberry jam, blueberry pie, dried herb, anise and blackberry aromas that lead to full-bodied dark fruit lavors. It’s fullbore in style, like the vintage it comes from. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

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Raconteur 2015 Red (Columbia Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) takes the lead here, with the balance in Syrah. The aromas fascinate, evoking gun smoke, spice, Bing cherry, black currant, dried herb and fresh lowers, with the oak inluence dialed way back. The lavors show dazzling purity and richness, along with a grip of tannins and a meaty, smoke-laced inish. It’s a whole lot of wine in a nearly oak-free style rarely seen from the state at this price point. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $15

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Sightglass 2015 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec (Columbia Valley). An equal split between the two varieties, this brings lurking dark roasted cofee, herb, plum, dark fruit and spice aromas. Its blue fruit lavors are tightly wound; they dip in the middle before coming back together, surrounded by luxurious French oak spice notes. The wood seems a bit primary at present, but there are a lot of good things going on. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $33

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Auclair 2015 96 Cedars (Red Mountain). This blend of Cabernet Franc (34%), Cabernet Sauvignon (33%), Merlot (28%) and Petit Verdot was aged in 10% new French oak. Its vibrant anise aromas precede a unique proile of golden raisin, plum and spice. It shows lovely balance and inishes tart. —S.S. abv: NA Price: $NA

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Charles & Charles 2016 Cabernet SauvignonSyrah (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 108. Best Buy. abv: 13.8% Price: $12

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Disastrous by Nature 2015 Red (Columbia Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot make up the bulk of this wine, with a number of other varieties. The aromas are fruit-forward, with plum and huckleberry notes and light herb accents. The palate ofers directly appealing, sweet fruit lavors. It goes down easy. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.6% Price: $13

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Locations NV WA5 Red (Washington). This blend of Syrah, Merlot and Petite Sirah has generous plum, tar, herb, blueberry and blackberry aromas. They lead to full-bodied fruit lavors that lose a bit of their concentration and rhythm toward the inish but still provide a lot of enjoyment. —S.S. abv: 15% Price: $20

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BUYINGGUIDE

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Northwest Ridge 2014 8 Barrel Cuvée (Columbia Valley). This wine is a blend of 52% Syrah and 48% Merlot. Its boysenberry, red currant and spice aromas are followed by a fruitforward palate with easy-drinking appeal. —S.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $20

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Pamplin 2015 Red I.Q. (Columbia Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot make up the majority of this wine, which is inished with Malbec. It’s all from high quality vineyards, including Seven Hills, Alder Ridge and Discovery. Blue fruit, herb and spice aromas are followed by red and blue fruit lavors that hollow out on the midpalate. Still, there’s plenty of enjoyment to be had. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $14

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Reininger 2013 Mr. Owl’s Red (Walla Walla Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon (55%) and a huge dollop of Petit Verdot (36%) make up most of this wine, which is inished with Cabernet Franc. Despite being almost ive years old, the aromas are not too pronounced, with cherry, lower, soil, purple fruit and spice notes. It has ine acidity and structure, but the tannins are pretty irm at present. It’s not clear if they will settle with time. —S.S. abv: 14.3% Price: $25

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Castillo de Feliciana 2015 Bolsa Negra Vino Rojo Reserve (Columbia Valley). This is half Malbec, 30% Petit Verdot, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Petit Verdot takes over the aroma, evoking lowers, potting soil and green herbs, along with barrel accents. Tart cherry and blackberry lavors follow, backed by a lot of acid. —S.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $60

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Dusted Valley 2015 Squirrel Tooth Alice Stone Tree Vineyard (Wahluke Slope). Grenache (43%) takes the lead in this wine, followed by Mourvèdre (37%) and Syrah. Unusual aromas of crushed peanuts, savory herb and überripe fruit lavors lead to a peanut shell-like inish. It doesn’t all seem in harmony. —S.S. abv: 14.7% Price: $39

OREGON PINOT NOIR

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Patricia Green Cellars 2016 Estate Vineyard Bonshaw Block Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). This 100% Pommard clone wine from a 1990 planting is immensely deep, dark and textural, with complex aromas that instantly draw one in. Its compact berry, plum jam and baking spice scents come with underlying mineral and earth notes. It hits the palate with a powerfully woven matrix of lush lavors: blueberry, plum, cherry, chocolate, butterscotch and toasted coconut. It’s thick, supple and lingering—an ethereal and extraordinary wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $60

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Prince Hill 2015 Clone 95 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The back story of this wine could ill a novel; most notable is the fact that Oregon pioneer Dick Erath’s Clone 95 is originally from Clos Vougeot cuttings. Here, it’s featured with exceptional gravitas, from the opening cherry, fruit leather and compote aromas to the generous assortment of black fruit and sweet spice on the palate. Cofee liqueur notes, a whif of smoke and a lingering inish make this very special. Drink now–2035. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $120

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Bethel Heights 2015 Southeast Block Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Made from ownrooted Pommard clone vines planted in 1979, this ofers compelling aromas of tea leaves, citrus oil, bark and other botanicals. Black cherry fruit mixes with dried cherry and cranberry lavors, creating lush complexity all through the palate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $56

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Dion 2015 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). The old vines indicated on this wine’s label are 100% Pommard clone planted in 1976. Its compelling aroma gracefully combines lower, fruit, earth and barrel scents. Drinking more like a mature, well-aged wine than a fresh newcomer, it’s a bottle for those with with twitchy corkpulling ingers. Despite generous (50%) new oak, it remains subtly detailed, with beautifully integrated components. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $50

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Domaine Divio 2015 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This is the ripest of the winery’s 2015 Pinots and was given an extra boost (40% rather than 30%) of new oak. Supple and dense, it’s packed with deep pomegranate, strawberry and plum lavors, along with orange zest highlights. A toasty, tasty inish brings a licorice note. Drink now and through the 2020s. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $48

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Anne Amie 2014 Anne Amie Estate Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This is a deep, concentrated exploration of the estate vineyard’s best lots. Its puréed berry lavors are matched to lush butterscotch, almond paste, oatmeal cookie and milk chocolate notes, all in proportion. It’s smooth, sexy and so inviting. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $45

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Bethel Heights 2015 West Block Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). West Block is the oldest planting at Bethel Heights, dating back to 1977, and as old vine wines oten do, this engages with remarkable power and complexity. It’s almost Mediterranean in lavor, with sun-dried tomato, black olive, arugula, pepper and green tea notes. Yet, it doesn’t lack for fruit; its red and blue fruit core is simply ampliied with woodsy, earthy details. Drink now through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $56

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Brooks 2015 Crannell Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Of the winery’s many 2015 Pinot Noirs, this is an early standout, with punchy fruit lavors of cranberry and cherry, buoyed by ample natural acidity. The mouthfeel is fresh and spicy, and the inish adds additional chocolate and orange peel highlights. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $48

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Dion 2014 115 West Limited Release Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Supple and sexy, this complex and layered wine pulls together berry, plum and black cherry fruit with subtle hints of mushroom, dried leaves and graphite. Native yeast fermentation adds further textural detail, and the 50% new oak is suitably restrained. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35

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Domaine Divio 2015 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Each of the winery’s Pinot Noirs showcases a speciic AVA rather than microfocusing on individual vineyards, blocks or clones. And each is impressive in its own right. Here, the plum and cherry fruit is backed by baking spice and cinnamon toast highlights. Balanced and intense, it inishes with polished tannins and seems closer to peak drinking than the rest of the 2015s. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $55

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Domaine Divio 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Along with this wine’s complex bramble, berry and red plum lavors come striking cinnamon, pepper and almond paste highlights. Released ater one year in 30% new French oak and another in bottle, it does a deep dive into a spicy, lingering inish. At a modest price, it’s one of the top Pinots in Oregon. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $32

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Lavinea 2015 Elton Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Elton’s 30-year-old vines weave subtle threads of herb, root and earth around its tight wild strawberry, currant and red licorice lavors. The earthy details run deep, which supports tucking this bottle away for up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

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Panther Creek 2015 Lazy River Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Always a top cuvée and good value, this brings tight, sharply deined fruit lavors that run from banana and coconut to peach and papaya, all clustered around a core of blackberry and black cherry. The length and detail are impressive. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $45

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Prince Hill 2015 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This new project from Oregon pioneer Dick Erath and his friend and fellow winemaker Laurent Montalieu features the seminal vineyard. What a joy to see these exceptional grapes getting the star treatment they deserve. This stunningly aromatic reserve bottling brings clover and


dusty spice notes, with well-layered black cherry, cola, sweet spice and molasses lavors. Even better on the second day, it’s a wine to enjoy now through the next decade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $85

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Quintet 2015 Lichtenwalter Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). For full review see page 98. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.6% Price: $52

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51 Weeks 2015 Voetjes Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 98. abv: 14.1% Price: $32

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Anne Amie 2015 Winemaker’s Selection Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Supple and smooth, with satiny appeal, this is loaded with blueberry compote lavors. There are whifs of tobacco and bitter herbs, and a lush inish that brings chocolate-covered cherries to mind. A stunning value. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $28

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Anne Amie 2014 Twelve Oaks Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This dark, muscular wine displays black fruit suggesting boysenberries, loganberries and sweet blackberries, with the juicy acidity to match. There’s a streak of café crème and some deining stem lavors on the inish. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $45

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Anne Amie 2014 Two Estates Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This vintage is already in its prime drinking window, and the 16 months aging in 38% new oak has paid of, with lovely sea saltcaramel chocolate notes. Its ripe Bing cherry fruit is dusted with cinnamon and baking spice, bringing further nuances of cola, cofee and Bourbon barrel on the inish. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $35

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Armonéa 2014 Russell Grooters Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Stylish and tightly sculpted, this brings zippy raspberry fruit front and center, morphing into chocolatey cherry lavor as it opens. It’s sharp and well deined, with a balanced framework of acidity and tannin that carries it into an extended inish. It’s deliciously youthful but has the structure to cellar through 2026. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $35

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Armonéa 2014 Wine Country Farm Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). The winery reports that these vines date back to 1970 and are own-rooted, 100% Pommard clone. Intensely aromatic, the wine’s fruit recalls orange, raspberry and cherry, bound by fresh, juicy acidity. There’s a very light hint of funk and a long, layered inish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $35

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Bethel Heights 2015 Aeolian Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Named for the windy

corridor that gives the estate fruit its grip and concentration, this packs its black cherry and cassis lavors with compelling highlights. Pepper, cedar and sandalwood accents linger and penetrate the core of dark fruit. It spent 14 months in 45% new French oak. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $42

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Bethel Heights 2015 Estate Pinot Noir (EolaAmity Hills). This robust, muscular wine is packed with black cherry fruit. New French oak swathes the outstanding fruit in comforting lavors of mocha and butterscotch. It’s smooth and seductive, with a kiss of dark chocolate on the inish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $32

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Brooks 2015 Temperance Hill Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The top-tier vineyard planted in 1981 is showcased here in a complex mix of rhubarb, strawberry and raspberry jam lavors, with subtle inlections of stem and dried leaves. Those lavors soak the palate, lingering through a breakfast teea-laced inish. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $48

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Le Cadeau 2015 Trajet Reserve Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). As in 2014, this reserve bottling uses all estate fruit, 85% whole cluster fermentation and native yeasts. It’s concentrated and complex, with black cherry, cola, iron and cofee highlights. The various components are detly threaded into a textural, compelling package with a decade of life ahead. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $80

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Panther Creek 2015 Carter Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). The top-notch vineyard delivers a big, juicy mouthful of ripe strawberry and raspberry fruit in this wine. Its refreshing acidity is a ine counterpoint to the barrel lavors from time spent in 38% new French oak. Still young and ageworthy, it’s already showing ine balance and proportion. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $65

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Ponzi 2015 Classico Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 100. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.7% Price: $43

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Dion 2015 Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). As with the previous vintage, this wine is showing premature signs of aging, despite its relative youth. The upside is that it requires no further cellaring for immediate enjoyment, unlike many of the 2015s. Its cherry fruit is sot and lush, resting in a spicy sea of ginger, allspice and sweet baking spice notes. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $40 Domaine Divio 2015 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This young-drinking wine ofers tart cranberry and raspberry lavors that are as concentrated and intense as fruit purée. There are aromatic hints of lavender and compost, as well as a sprinkling of black pepper and overripe tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $48

King Estate 2014 Antiquum Vineyards Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 99. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

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Lavinea 2015 Lazy River Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Lush marionberry, boysenberry, blueberry and plum lavors are on display here, with subtle hints of pepper. Aged in 30% new French oak, it inishes with cocoa and vanilla custard notes. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $55

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Lavinea 2015 Temperance Hill Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). It’s pedal to the metal lavor in this wine from the renowned vineyard, with ripe blackberry and black cherry fruit. There’s a streak of cola, licorice and chicken broth on the inish, with subtle, suicient tannins. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $75

Ruby 2015 Estate Blend Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). The vines used here date back to the 1970s, yielding an edgy wine loaded with strong grapefruit, lemon oil and orange peel lavors. Those citrus highlights surround a core of red berry fruit, with ample details and texture. Its subtlety requires a little extra attention, which it will reward in spades. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $45

Youngberg Hill Vineyards 2015 Natasha Block Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Edging out its companions in 2015, the Natasha Block bottling ofers a concentrated mash-up of berry, blood oranges and melon lavors. Though the listed alcohol is relatively high for the region, it doesn’t intrude on the terriic fruit, which is in balance and delicious already. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

Andrew Rich 2015 Prelude Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This lovely, full-lavored and fruit-driven wine needs no special occasion to enjoy. It’s a delicious mélange of strawberry preserve, raspberry purée and black cherry cola notes. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $24

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Bethel Heights 2015 Flat Block Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Sourced from own-rooted Pommard clone vines planted in 1979, this starts out with a tannic grip and pomegranate and brambly berry lavors. Its underlying, astringent minerality drives the palate forward into a buttery inish. While all Bethel Heights Pinot Noirs are ageworthy, this one will notably beneit from another year or two in bottle. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $58

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Brandborg 2013 Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This late release is sourced from a single vineyard and shows extraordinary focus. Even at this age it remains tightly wound, with tart raspberry fruit streaked with ground cofee and dark chocolate notes. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $35

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Brooks 2015 Rastaban Brooks Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This estate reserve is produced from biodynamic grapes. It’s sweet and spicy, with concentrated raspberry fruit, baking spice and hints of toasted coconut. A touch riper than the previous vintage, it’s already drinking well. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $60

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Carlton Hill 2014 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This blend of the winery’s four best barrels spent 18 months in half new oak. Although it has the same irm, tannic structure as the entry-level 2014, it’s a bit deeper and riper, with cassis, black olive, espresso and dark chocolate notes. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $75

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David Hill 2015 Old Vine Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This pioneering vineyard still holds vines planted in 1965 by the original owner, Charles Coury. The Coury clone, along with Wadenswil and Pommard from the same era, combine gracefully in this lush, spicy wine. Its tart berry fruit is balanced by irm acidity and generous barrel lavors of toast and buttered nuts. This is a ine value for a rare old-vine Pinot Noir. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

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Flâneur 2015 X-Novo Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Plush and textured, with tasty, crushed berry-like fruit, this has hints of stems but inishes with richer notes of chocolate wafer and toasted almonds. It was aged in 30% new French oak. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $40

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Furioso 2016 La Linea Furioso Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This young, fresh and delicious wine was neither ined nor iltered and was fermented with native yeasts. Barrel aging (30% new) has resulted in a toastiness that frames its spicy raspberry jam lavors. The texture, balance and inish are spot-on. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $75

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King Estate 2014 Crot Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 102. abv: 14% Price: $60

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King Estate 2014 Kennel Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 102. abv: 14% Price: $55

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Lavinea 2015 Nysa Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This wine from a respected

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vineyard in the Dundee Hills brings pinpoint focus to its just-ripe wild berry lavors. Its astringency is more the result of lemony acids than dusty tannins, and its caramel chocolate highlights the result of aging in 30% new French oak. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $65

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Lavinea 2015 Tualatin Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Yummy is the word that comes to mind with this wine, its ripe, round, slightly candied fruit lavors on full display. Orange, tangerine, blackberry and sour cherry lavors create a sweet/tart efect that’s held in check by just a touch of barrel toast. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $65

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Le Cadeau 2016 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This red label cuvée is made exclusively from estate grown fruit. And although its production is higher in 2016, the quality remains consistent. Concentrated black fruit abounds, recalling blackberry, blueberry and black cherry. There’s a touch of dark chocolate and café crème, along with ine-grained tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $38

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Panther Creek 2015 De Ponte Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). There’s quite a bit less of the De Ponte bottling available this vintage, but it’s well worth seeking out. Fresh, tight, clean and concentrated, it’s packed with raspberry and cherry fruit. The acids prevail over the tannins, which only furthers the pleasure. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $45

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Panther Creek 2015 Schindler Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This is a delicious mix of earth, rock, leaf, cherry and chocolate notes, with some pretty orange peel highlights. It relects the earthy characteristics of the AVA and nicely integrates its one third new French oak. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $50

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Ponzi 2016 Tavola Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Ponzi’s Tavola consistently out-performs reserve-level wines from elsewhere. Credit the outstanding vineyard sources, which include Ponzi’s Avellana vineyard, and of course the skillful winemaking, which begins with native yeast fermentation. It was aged 11 months in 20% new French oak and has scents and lavors of Bourbon tea, cinnamon spice and black cherry fruit. There’s plenty of power and a clean, fresh inish. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $27

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River’s Edge 2015 Barrel Select Pinot Noir (Elkton Oregon). For full review see page 103. Editors’ Choice. abv: 15.2% Price: $25

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Ruby 2016 Hendricks Legacy Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Still quite young, this ofers concentrated raspberry fruit, with tangerine highlights. The acidity is spot-on, emphasizing the

bright, ripe fruit, held in check by 10 months’ aging in 10% new French oak. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $45

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Ryan Rose 2015 Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Lovely aromas introduce this pleasingly complex young wine. One new and one once-used barrel were used, lending interesting scents and highlights of mushroom, cola and chocolate to its core of black cherry fruit. The tannins are well managed and ripe, with resonating streaks of bacon and vanilla. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $50

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Sol Vie 2015 Hyland Vineyard Pinot Noir (McMinnville). This young wine is tight and tart, with the characteristic McMinnville underpinnings of cement and wet stone. The structure and balance are in ine proportion; it just needs more bottle age to unwind. Decant or cellar another year or two before opening. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $40

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Vidon Vineyard 2013 Barrel Select Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This spent 18 months in French oak and another three years in bottle. Yet despite its age, it looks and drinks quite young, perhaps because it is sealed with a glass cap. There’s even a whif of yeast on the nose, and the tart, fresh fruit includes blood orange, cranberry and raspberry notes. It’s irmly tannic and may hold its youthful freshness considerably longer. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $80

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Youngberg Hill Vineyards 2015 Jordan Block Pinot Noir (McMinnville). This vintage showcases strong mineral tones and brambly fruit. Its cranberry and raspberry lavors are sharply etched, with the youth and precision to age another decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $50

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Armonéa 2014 Summit Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This wine’s light strawberry fruit is scented with unusual notes of dried straw. There’s a hint of barnyard on the nose, which follows through to the palate. The mix of grain, grass and berry notes keeps it interesting, though it’s deinitely on the lighter side of Oregon Pinot. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $35

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Brandborg 2014 Bradley Vineyard Pinot Noir (Elkton Oregon). Firm and tart, this is anchored by black cherry fruit, with strong cofee and cola highlights. Give it a long snif and you’ll detect a slightly funky note. Drink soon. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

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Brandborg 2014 Westbrook Vineyard Pinot Noir (Umpqua Valley). This meaty wine ofers a payload of black fruit and even darker seams of espresso and charcoal. The barrels used likely had a pretty heavy toast, as the lavors border on burnt.


It’s rare a Pinot Noir belongs with barbecue; this one does. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $30

didate for immediate summertime enjoyment. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $20

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Brooks 2015 Sunset Ridge Pinot Noir (EolaAmity Hills). This is a tasty, focused young wine from vines just entering maturity. Pleasing highlights of chocolate mint carry from the nose to the inish, adding interest to tightly wound cranberry and raspberry fruit. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $48 Carlton Hill 2015 Estate Tournament Reserve Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Smoke and cofee aromas loat above this four-barrel reserve. In the mouth, it’s still compact, with tart cherry and black olive lavors and astringent tannins. It spent 18 months in 30% new French oak and seems built for at least a decade of life ahead. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $75

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Carlton Hill 2014 Estate Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). This seems stif but clearly focused, with strong licorice and cofee lavors over lighter cranberry and pomegranate fruit. It’s not a wine bursting with charm, but it does have tannic muscle and power. Light tobacco notes thread through the grainy inish. Cellar and drink during the 2020s. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $50

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Hyland 2016 Old Vine Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Old vine is an unregulated term, and the bottle gives no indication of what it signiies here. The wine starts out toasty and a little hot, improving as it opens, with black cherry, cofee and toasted walnut lavors. The inish brings a lingering taste of chicken stock. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $45 Iota Cellars 2015 Not One iOTA Pelos Sandberg Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). There’s plenty of concentrated, tangy fruit here. The wine bursts with juicy cranberry and raspberry lavors, bolstered by ample acidity. It spent just under a year in barrel, 7% new. Another year in bottle would be a good idea before pulling the cork. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $28

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Iota Cellars 2015 Whole Cluster Pelos Sandberg Vineyard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Whole cluster fermentation brings this wine’s juicy fruit lavors front and center. Like an especially ine Beaujolais, it pushes ripe berry notes into the spotlight and inishes with drying, tea leaf tannins. It was aged 11 months in one quarter new French oak. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $44

Dominio IV 2014 Willakia Pinot Noir (EolaAmity Hills). Medium bodied, with a core of black cherry fruit, this is nicely textured and has a streak of cola. The earthy lavors of the AVA are in evidence, leading to a tannic inish. It improves signiicantly with generous aeration. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $55

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Flâneur 2016 Cuvée Constantin Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The most widely produced Pinot Noir in the winery’s lineup, this is also the most accessible. Dark, aromatic and lightly smoky, it ofers rich red, blue and black berry lavors. The tannins are chewy and dark, with cofee and dark chocolate highlights. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Flâneur 2016 Flanerie Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). From one of the winery’s estate vineyards planted in 2003, this ofers raspberry and cherry candy lavors backed by mineral highlights. It was fermented with 20% whole clusters and aged for 12 months in 37% new French oak. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $50

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Foris 2015 Pinot Noir (Rogue Valley). This pretty, afordable Oregon Pinot Noir brings purple fruit character and plenty of appeal. Sot on entry, it loosens up on the palate to deliver a blast of blueberry jam and French oak lavors (though its oak aging is unspeciied), inishing with a chocolate note recalling a Hershey’s kiss. This is a good can-

Le Cadeau 2015 Côte Est Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). From a cool site, this is tightly wound, with herbal accents and thin red berry fruit. Despite its relatively high alcohol, it seems restrained and slightly underripe, with tomato leaf scents and lavors. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $50 Panther Creek 2015 Kalita Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). Sweet toast and concentrated fruit aromas introduce this forward and appealing wine. Suggestions of berries, tree fruits and light tropical highlights combine gracefully. It’s ready for immediate enjoyment and will reward any extra attention you give it. —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $50

preserves, cranberry sauce and graham crackers. Its solid, chunky midpalate keeps those tart fruit lavors front and center. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

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Youngberg Hill Vineyards 2015 Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This fresh, pretty, fruit-driven wine is loaded with ripe strawberry, raspberry and cherry notes. The lively fruit is underscored by hints of stem and stone, inishing with a dash of barrel toast. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $35

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Robert Mondavi 2014 Fumé Blanc (Oakville). A blend of 79% Sauvignon Blanc and 21% Sémillon barrel fermented largely in 60-gallon French oak barrels, this is a well-integrated and substantial ofering of sublime texture, length and complexity. Jasmine aromas ride atop fresh, vibrant layers of Meyer lemon and nectarine, a stony mineral element persistent on the inish. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Chalk Hill 2016 Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Chalk Hill). For full review see page 97. abv: 14.3% Price: $33

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Sidebar Cellars 2016 Ritchie Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Aged in concrete, this ’wow’ of a wine is nuanced in nutty almond, Meyer lemon and crisp grapefruit. Sleek and smooth, it features bright focused acidity that complements the complex savory fruit and hints of lemongrass and ginger. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $34

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River’s Edge 2015 Elkton Cuvée Pinot Noir (Elkton Oregon). For full review see page 105. Editors’ Choice. abv: 15% Price: $20

Dragonette 2015 Vogelzang Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). There’s an oily petrol kick to the nose of this Bordeaux-like single vineyard expression, atop a base of apple syrup and grapefruit pith. The oily nature extends to the palate, where wats of smoke envelop pithy lavors of citrus skin and a compelling texture. It’s an unctuous, compelling take on the grape for a region usually focused on freshness. —M.K. abv: 14.2% Price: $45

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Sol Vie 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This spicy, round, fruit-powered wine ofers a pleasing mix of berry and cherry lavors. The fruit is annotated with citrus rind highlights and has a irm, substantial inish with well-built tannins and a touch of toast. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $30

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Van Duzer 2014 Tradition Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Produced from old vines (age unspeciied) and fermented using whole clusters, this is an aromatic mélange of strawberry

Margerum 2016 D Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Very light in the glass, this blend of McGinley and Grassini vineyards, much of which spent time in cigar-shaped barrels, shows reserved aromas of wet stone, sot peach blossom, subtle apple and crushed chalk on the nose. The palate is vibrant with crisp clean pure lavors of citrus, cherimoya and poached pear, with a unique touch of green tea and scallions toward the inish. —M.K. abv: 12.2% Price: $36

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Textbook 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Dark gold in color, this is an inviting white wine, light and fresh with highlights of peach Melba and honeysuckle. Tahitian vanilla adds a note of balanced richness that rewards the palate with substance and grace. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $20

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Blue Victorian Winery 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Suisun Valley). Lively fruit lavors and a little richness in the texture make a good combination for this full-bodied wine that tastes lightly oaky while balanced by a lood of grapefruit and lime. Made with 15% new oak and a 8% Verdelho grapes, It is mouth illing and refreshing at the same time, which is a great combination. —J.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $24

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Grgich Hills 2015 Estate Grown Fumé Blanc Dry Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For full review see page 101. abv: 13.5% Price: $31

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Senders 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Oak Knoll District). Stainless steel-aged, this delightful white shows high-toned loral characteristics of apricot and green apple, with a medium-bodied oomph of creamy lushness on the inish. It’ll do well with food or on its own. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $26

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Vie Winery 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). This wine yields ripe citrus, melon and vanilla aromas, along with waxy minerally notes that add delicious complexity. It’s technically lightbodied in terms of alcohol but ills out the palate nicely and lingers on the inish, echoing oak spice and mineral tones. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

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Black Stallion 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). This is a bright fresh white that shows a nice complement of dried herb and lemongrass with juicier, more concentrated lavors of white peach and melon. Elegantly crated, it has a lushness to the palate that’s lengthy and complex. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $20

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Foxen 7200 2016 Vogelzang Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Ripe apples, lime skin, chalk and Asian pear aromas slowly come to the fore on the nose of this subtle bottling. It lands very cleanly on the palate, ofering yellow apples, hints of chalk and chiseled marble and then a slightly tropical swing toward mango on the inish. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $28

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Hawley 2017 Hopkins River Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Dark in color, this is a pretty wine, intensely aromatic in jasmine, anise and fresh lavors of white peach and green apple. Medium bodied, it has some oomph to the palate but is balanced. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $23

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High Valley Vineyard 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (High Valley). This well-balanced wine from high-elevation Lake County has everything in the right proportions: fresh herb and citrus aromas, lip-smacking, crisp fruit lavors, a generous texture and lingering inish. —J.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $27

Vigilance 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (Red Hills Lake County). For full review see page 106. abv: 13.9% Price: $25

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Dragonette 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Pomelo skin, grapefruit zest, chalk and a bit of reductive petrol and smoke aromas show on the nose of this appellation blend. The palate ofers tremendous textural grip with tangy lime and underripe Pink Lady apple lavors. —M.K. abv: 13.4% Price: $30

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Villa San Juliette 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso Robles). Very light in the glass, this fresh bottling shows aromas of lime rinds, Anjou pear skins and rainy cement but also riper touches of passion fruit and gooseberry. There is a strong citrus tang to the sip, a ripe apple lavor and a crushed seashell minerality. —M.K. abv: 13.7% Price: $22

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Z. Alexander Brown 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast). Fresh herb and melon aromas lead to a fairly rich mouthfeel and a combination of tangy, fruity and mineral-like lavors that add up to a well-rounded and well-made wine. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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Dancing Crow 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). This light-bodied wine is quite dry and refreshing with lean fruit lavors and a good crisp texture. It’s low in alcohol, too, and will be a crowd-pleaser, especially in hot weather. —J.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $18

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Foursight 2016 Charles Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Anderson Valley). This cheery wine has a lot of vibrant fruit lavors including lemon, grapefruit and crisp apple that refresh the palate, along with light spice notes of vanilla and ginger and perhaps a touch of sweetness. —J.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $25

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Robert Mondavi 2016 Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley). This blends 92% Sauvignon Blanc and 8% Sémillon, the two barrel-fermented for richness and layering. Lemongrass, wet stone and apricot mingle well together around supportive acidity that’s bright and substantial. Creamy and lush, it inishes clean. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

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Esser 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey County). A slightly richer expression of the grape, this bottling shows ripe Asian pear, blanched almonds, baked apples and a slightly alkaline

touch. The palate starts slightly sweet, with lemonlaced apple-pie lavors and inishes the same. Best Buy. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

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Europa Village 2016 C’est La Vie Private Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Temecula Valley). Very light in the glass, this bottling shows pear lesh, apple blossoms and the slightest tinge of cut grass on the fruity, easygoing nose. Though it lacks a bit in texture, the palate shows leshy apple and pear lavors as well as a touch of tropical guava. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $37

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Hawk Watch Winery 2017 Sauvignon Blanc (South Coast). Clean aromas of ripe nectarine and Anjou pear skins meet with lime pith, cut grass and cement on the nose of this bottling from the San Diego area. An impressive texture grabs hold of the palate immediately, then gives way to baked apple and dried pear lavors that go down easy. —M.K. abv: 13.6% Price: $21

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Steelhead Vineyards 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast). This screw cap wine has a strong earthy scent at irst whif, but mellows into fresh herbs, grapefruit and white pepper ater a little airing . It has great acidity, medium body and the refreshing qualities most people look for in a Sauvignon Blanc. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Tangent 2016 Paragon Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Edna Valley). There’s a strong linty aroma that kicks of the nose of this bottling, giving intrigue to the squeezed lime and citrus skin scents. The palate starts with an apple cider-like lavor that’s lited by pine oil and a touch of wood smoke, all of which become more cohesive as the bottle opens up. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

ROSÉS

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Margerum 2017 Riviera Rosé (Santa Barbara County). Tight, bright and refreshing on the nose, this very pale Grenache-based rosé shows strawberry and wet river stones on the nose. There’s an immense grip to the sip, with pithy lime rinds framing the tightly wound strawberry lavors that carry far into the inish. Beware the ease with which it vanishes. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 11.3% Price: $21

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Malene Wines 2017 Rosé (Santa Barbara County). This rosé, by the team at Chamisal, is a superstar in the category, ofering a little bit of everything for all palate preferences. Perfumed aromas of peach, strawberry and wet gravel combine fruit with minerality, while the palate is framed by a compelling texture. Flavors of red apple and plum sail into the inish. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.1% Price: $22


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SeaGlass 2017 Rosé (Monterey County). For full review see page 107. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $12

acidity and textural grip to the palate, where rounded and sot bubblegum lavors thrive. —M.K. abv: 12.8% Price: $25

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Wild Thing 2017 Rendezvous Rosé (Mendocino County). A deep pink color and bold fruit and spice lavors help this wine stand out from the pack. Made from mostly old-vine Carignan, it is full bodied, rounded and rich on the palate, yet has good acidity and a glimmer of tannin to add structure. Winemaker Carol Shelton achieves concentration that helps the lavors hang in there for a lingering inish. Best Buy. —J.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Chloe 2017 Rosé (Central Coast). This widely available bottling strikes a nice balance between ripeness and restraint, starting with a cherry and strawberry nose. Framed by a decently taut texture, the palate ofers lavors of strawberry juice and red plum cut by pink grapefruit pith, with a hint of baking spice for complexity. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

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Klinker Brick 2017 Bricks & Roses Estate Rosé (Lodi). This well-balanced and straightforward wine has fresh crisp apple and white-peach lavors and a good dry palate with light acidity and light body. Those are just the traits that many people are looking for in a rosé. —J.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $15

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Cass 2017 Oasis Rosé (Paso Robles). Cotton candy and bubblegum aromas make for a very showy nose on this bottling of this pink GSM blend. It’s light and airy on the palate, with watermelon, pink fruit and more bubblegum lavors, all cut by squeezed lemon and tangerine. —M.K. abv: 12% Price: $22

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Peltier 2016 Black Diamond Estate Grown Rosé (Lodi). Airy and delicate, this lightbodied wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon smells loral and tastes like strawberries and watermelon. A smooth, almost sot texture continues the gentle impression. —J.G. abv: 12% Price: $16

Jalopy 2016 Guns N Rosé (Los Olivos District). A slightly orange shade of pink, this bottling, whose label features both guns and roses, shows dried orange and tart watermelon on the nose. There’s a tangy aspect to the sip, which is somewhat sticky in texture, with orange peel and apple lavors, with cherry and vanilla rising on the inish. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $24

TANNAT

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Seven Oxen 2015 Tannat (Paso Robles). Dense boysenberry, black plum and dried teriyaki meet with savory notes of soy and teriyaki on the nose of this bottling. Roasted black-plum lavors show on the smoky sip, which is enhanced by roasted lamb and complex rosemary notes. The tannins are still stif and young, but this will drink well until at least 2025. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $44

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Tablas Creek 2015 Tannat (Adelaida District). Dense aromas of black-plum syrup are fruitforward and plump but not sweet on the nose of this bottling from the producer who brought this grape to California. A chalky, very full mouthfeel carries lavors of black plum, fennel and pepper. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $40

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Le Vigne 2015 Di Domenico Tannat (Paso Robles). Concentrated black plum and slightly sour blueberry aromas met with dried earth and leather on the nose of this wine. The palate is dense and heavily weighted, with an acidity that slowly rises through the sot tannins, carrying lavors of dark fruit and peppery spice. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $48

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Scotto Family Cellars 2017 Dry Sangiovese Rosé (Lodi). For full review see page 107. abv: 13% Price: $15

Sobon Estate 2016 ReZerve Tannat (Amador County). This big wine smells very potent and concentrated, and tastes ripe and broad and mouth coating. Full body and a thick but not chewy texture give it a lot of impact on the palate, carrying opulent blackberry and black-cherry lavors through the inish. —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $28

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Eberle 2017 Côtes-Du-Robles Rosé (Paso Robles). A darker shade of pink, this blend of 60% Syrah, 37% Grenache and 3% Viognier ofers dark raspberry and mulberry on the nose, with a touch of rocky minerality. The palate is clean with rounded plum and turned earth lavors. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $24

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Hoyt Family Vineyards 2017 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). The watermelon and sot strawberry tones of strong on the nose of this bottling. There is a good sizzle of

The Blending Lab 2015 Tannat (Paso Robles). Subtle aromas of condensed rose petals, dried purple lowers, boysenberry and roasted red meat show on the nose of this bottling. Clean purple-lower lavors show on the palate, which is somewhat single-noted but pleasing overall. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $75

Y Rousseau 2013 The Musketeer Alder Springs Vineyard Tannat (Mendocino). This robust wine has salt-and-pepper and grilled beef aromas, strong smoky peppery lavors that wrap around a bright cherry core, and very irm tannins

that give it a tight grip. So young and tannic that it needs time to show its stuf. Best ater 2025. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $65

SANGIOVESE

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Naggiar 2015 Estate Grown Sangiovese (Sierra Foothills). Not many California Sangioveses are this good. It’s impressive how a core of great fruit lavor ills up this well-balanced and full-bodied wine from the irst whif to the lingering inish. It starts with cinnamon, nutmeg and blackcherry aromas, brings clove and more cherry on the palate and wraps it all in a texture of velvety tannins. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $26

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Noceto 2015 Hillside Sangiovese (Shenandoah Valley). Aromas like iron, earth and cherries lead to good rich fruit lavors in this wellbalanced and medium-bodied wine. Energized by irm tannins and lively acidity, it matches them with ripe cherry and raspberry lavors and a tantalizing spiciness that lasts through the inish. —J.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $32

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Noceto 2015 Marmellata Sangiovese (Shenandoah Valley). It tastes as if Noceto is getting a better and better handle on this tricky grape variety. This wine captures the tension along with the complexity and generosity of this traditional Tuscan grape. It has intriguing smoke, raspberry and black-pepper aromas, lively cherry and cranberry lavors and good gripping tannins in the texture. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

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Lorimar 2014 Sangiovese (Temecula Valley). A promising new project out of Temecula, this bottling, which includes 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, ofers dense aromas of dried strawberry, red plum, vanilla and baking spice. Cooked cranberry, strawberry and pomegranate lavors show on the sip, which is framed by a chalky texture and lited by hints of rose and carnation. —M.K. abv: 15.3% Price: $42

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Masthead 2015 Mohr-Fry Ranch Block 433 Sangiovese (Lodi). For full review see page 102. abv: 14.3% Price: $30

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Noceto 2015 Dos Oakies Sangiovese (Shenandoah Valley). An aroma like ginger cookies and generous fruit and spice lavors make this full-bodied wine hard to resist. Clove, ginger and nutmeg ill the aroma, while black-cherry and black-currant notes coat the palate and linger on the inish. It’s a fairly big wine that’s delicious and well-balanced. —J.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $32

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Le Vigne 2015 Di Domenico Sangiovese (Paso Robles). This wine is dense with rounded and deep blackberry at its core. The palate

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BUYINGGUIDE is framed by strong tannins but also bright acidity, which carry forth energetic well-integrated lavors of bursting berry fruit and dark spice. —M.K. abv: 15.4% Price: $37

palate is lacking a bit in acid and tannins, but the mellow lavors of light cranberry, pomegranate and gravel are quafable. —M.K. abv: 13.8% Price: $32

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Noceto 2014 Riserva Sangiovese (Shenandoah Valley). The purity of fruit lavor in this medium-bodied wine is compelling to taste, and shines through in a focused way uncomplicated by noticeable oakiness. The wine is elegant, sleek in texture and redolent of red cherries all the way through a lingering inish. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $29

Rubino Estates Winery 2014 Riserva Collection Sangiovese (Livermore Valley). This wine has an alluring oak aroma, rich, spicy and oaky lavors and a mouth-illing texture due to full body and pretty strong tannins. The woody notes of cedar, tobacco, chocolate and cinnamon take center stage while fruit lavors play a secondary role. —J.G. abv: 15.2% Price: $28

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Noceto 2011 AX1 Sangiovese (Amador County). A spicy cedary minerally aroma leads to bright raspberry and cranberry lavors in this medium-bodied, complex and appetizing wine. It has good acidity and ine-grained tannins to help the grip, and pleasant light lavors that will be great at the table. —J.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $54

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Stolpman 2017 Love You Bunches Carbonic Sangiovese (Santa Barbara County). Released each year around Valentine’s Day, this carbonic experiment was an immediate hit. Served with a chill and very light in the glass, it shows primary aromas of strawberry, cola and rosewater. The playful palate is zippy with acid and dances across the tongue with lavors of tart red fruit. A great sunny day wine, but buy multiple bottles because they go fast. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $24

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Iron Hub 2014 Sangiovese (Shenandoah Valley). A lot of ripeness and plenty of warm spicy oaky accents make this wine both mouth illing and easy to dive into. There are vanilla, cinnamon and sandalwood scents in the aromas, and fully ripe plum lavors along with light tannins. —J.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $24

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Noceto 2015 Misto Sangiovese (Shenandoah Valley). A beefy brothy aroma leads to rich concentrated fruit lavors in this full-bodied and irm-textured wine. It has good structure, tasty layers of black cherry and red cherry and a mouthilling presence that’s appealing. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $32

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Rubino Estates Winery 2014 Landmark Collection Sangiovese (Livermore Valley). This wine is very generous in aromas and lavors, ofering ample spicy, cedary, and sunbaked aromas and a spiciness on the palate that’s almost sweet, backed by ripe poached fruit lavors and accents of maple syrup. Firm tannins and a good touch of acidity keep it balanced. —J.G. abv: 15.5% Price: $40

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Harmony Cellars 2015 Sangiovese (Paso Robles). There’s a strong earthy swath of wet clay and mud on the nose of this bottling along with dried cranberry and carnation petals. The

132 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JUNE 2018

CHILE CABERNET SAUVIGNON

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Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) 2015 Los Vascos Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This opens with spicy, edgy berry aromas. It’ss solid but tannic on the palate, with olive and roasted berry lavors. The inish is typical of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon: olive and herbal notes and manageable tannins. Esprit du Vin. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

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San Pedro 2015 1865 Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This wine’s olive, grilled meat, roasted plum and road tar aromas are more gritty than fruity. It’s full and chewy on the palate, with sot tannins. With stewed plum and herbal berry lavors, it’s thick and creamy on the inish. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

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Aresti 2015 Trisquel Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). This wine’s earthy, nutty aromas seem slightly muddled. Its raw, saucy palate deals tomato-like acidity and irm tannins. Its dry, herbal lavors of tomato and red plum are a bit stewed and taste like clove on the inish. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22

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J. Bouchon 2015 Block Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Maule Valley). Dry, earthy plum, tomato and spice aromas open this prickly Cabernet Sauvignon. On the palate, rough tannins and pronounced acidity make for an edgy mouthfeel. Tart, saucy lavors of plum and red currant inish with a savory, tomato inish. Vine Connections. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

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Junta 2016 Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). This wine’s cherry and oak-derived clove aromas lead to a lively palate with abrasive tannins. Its medicinal black fruit lavors turn darker, drier and toastier on the inish. Apollo Fine Wines & Spirits. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $18

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Maquis 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This wine’s spicy berry aromas are more herbal than outright ripe. It has a pulling, hard palate, with choppy tannins and generic plum and raspberry lavors laced with oaky clove notes. On the inish, it feels a bit raw and hollow. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

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Veramonte 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This wine’s earthy berry aromas lead to a solid palate full of tannins. Its herbal plum and berry lavors are typical of Chilean Cabernet, inishing spicy, peppery and irm. Gonzalez Byass USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12

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Viña Bisquertt 2015 Ecos de Rulo Single Vineyard El Chequén Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This Cabernet feels a bit sot and sticky. Its rubbery, soupy berry aromas are more savory and earthy than bright and fruity. Oaky, herbal berry lavors dominate the palate, while the inish is punctuated by mildly choppy tannins. Prestige Beverage Group. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20

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Chilensis 2016 Reserva Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon’s generic red berry aromas are friendly and a touch candied. It’s rough on the palate, with scraping tannins. Plum, cherry and leafy lavors fade out on the edgy inish marked by pronounced acidity. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

CARMENÈRE

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Siegel 2015 Single Vineyard Los Lingues Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). This is a classic terroir wine; over time Los Lingues Carmenère has developed its own character. Spicy plum and brambly berry aromas lead the nose, with a blast of black olive and herb notes. Rooty black fruit lavors carry into the toasty inish, with a lasting note of minty spice. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25

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Santa Alicia 2015 Gran Reserva de Los Andes Estate Bottled Carmenère (Maipo Valley). This wine’s nose is composed of spiced plum and prune aromas. On the palate, it’s drawing and rough due to crisp acidity and hard tannins. Its saucy berry, tomato and herb lavors inish hot and spicy like barbecue. American B.D. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $NA

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Santa Rita 2015 Medalla Real Gran Reserva Carmenère (Colchagua Costa). This Carmenère’s aromas are appropriately grapy and dark. Its full, chunky palate is rich but rough with tannins, while its dark, toasty black fruit lavors are spicy and chocolaty. DFV Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20


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Apaltagua 2015 Envero Gran Reserva Estate Bottled Apalta Vineyard Selection Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Abundant woody aromas and varietally familiar spiced berry scents introduce this wine. Rough tannins make for a hard palate, with black olive and peppery blackberry lavors. Oaky nutmeg and baking spice notes dominate the inish. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $17

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Oveja Negra 2015 Single Vineyard Carmenère (Maule Valley). This Carmenère’s saturated nose deals baked plum, spice and animal hide aromas. It’s chunky and obtuse on the palate, with tartaric edginess and stewed, spicy berry lavors. It holds steady on the inish. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $17

SYRAH

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Casas del Toqui 2014 Gran Toqui Syrah (Cachapoal Valley). A saturated, dark purple color and dense blackberry, black olive and chocolate aromas open this irm but nicely balanced Syrah—a grape that deserves more attention in Chile. Its savory plum and berry lavors are stretched a bit thin across its medium, oak-laced inish. Paciic Rim Wine Logistics. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22

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Viña Chocalan 2014 Gran Reserva Origen Syrah (Maipo Valley). This Syrah’s stewed, herbal berry aromas show a fair amount of opengrained oak. It’s chewy and pulpy, with irm tannins and expansive toasty, dark lavors of black fruits and barbecued meat. The inish is soupy, with rubbery tannins. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16

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Viña Chocalan 2014 Reserva Syrah (Maipo Valley). This basic Syrah is fairly lush and mouthilling. Its herbal, leathery berry aromas are earthy but solid. Herbal black fruit and chocolate lavors yield to olive and spice notes on the inish. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12

RED BLENDS

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Antiyal 2015 Kuyen (Maipo Valley). This Syrah-dominated blend’s ripe, roasted black fruit aromas bring root beer to mind. That ripeness echos on the palate, with exotic berry and chocolaty plum lavors. It tastes herbal and minty on the thick, oaky inish. Drink through 2025. Ripe Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $33

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Altaïr 2015 Red (Cachapoal Valley). This red blend ofers aromas of dried earth, cinnamon, spiced cherry and cassis. Its palate is oversized and mildly syrupy in feel, recalling medicinal cherry and spice cake tones, with grainy tannins on the in-

ish. Drink through 2030. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $60

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Ramirana 2015 Apalta Vineyard (Colchagua Valley). Foresty berry aromas and a hint of olive stick out on the nose of this rugged Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Petit Verdot blend. Spicy blackberry, mint and herbal lavors play out on the crisp inish, with herb and lemon notes. August Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

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Viña Santa Cruz 2015 Makemake Tempranillo-Garnacha (Colchagua Valley). This Tempranillo-Grenache blend is rugged in feel, with medicinal cherry and cassis aromas that lack cohesion. Its grapy blackberry and chocolate lavors end with a tannic grab that’s hard to absorb. Wine Bridge Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $42

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Bottero 2013 Capicúa 6886 (Cachapoal Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon blend’s herbal berry aromas include notes of pencil shavings, cured meat and hot peppers in vinegar. In the mouth, it’s raw and soupy, with jumbled mustard and saucy berry fruit lavors. It’s rubbery on the inish and doesn’t fully come together. Paciic Rim Wine Logistics. —M.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $NA

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Oveja Negra 2015 Reserva Cabernet FrancCarmenère (Maule Valley). This wine’s rubber, eucalyptus and olive aromas signal a textbook Chilean red. Raw tannins and a lean body make for a bumpy palate, with peppery plum and raspberry lavors. Its dry, edgy inish is moderately tannic and hollow. Old Bridge Cellars. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11

URUGUAY TANNAT

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Garzón 2016 Single Vineyard Tannat (Uruguay). For full review see page 99. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

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Bouza 2015 Parcela Única A6 Tannat (Montevideo). The sister cuvée to Bouza’s B6 Tannat, this is rock-solid up front, with heady black olive, balsamic berry and cedar aromas. Its heavy and syrupy on the palate rather than elegant, tasting of prune, blackberry and peppery spice. Its toasty inish includes blackened lavors. Drink through 2023. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $43

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Garzón 2016 Reserva Tannat (Uruguay). For full review see page 104. abv: 14.5% Price: $20

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Marichal 2013 Grand Reserve Tannat (Canelones). This wine’s ripe cassis and prune aromas are loaded with raw wood notes recalling vanilla and pencil lead. It’s tannic and highly acidic, lacking balance. Black plum and oaky coconut lavors lead to a lingering mocha note on the raw, tannic, acidic inish. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $65

RED BLENDS

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Garzón 2015 Balasto (Uruguay). For full review see page 97. abv: 14.5% Price: $120

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Santa Ema 2015 Barrel Select 60/40 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Maipo Valley). This Cabernet-Merlot blend is sot and plump, with little to no spine. Its plum and blackberry aromas show notes of olive and herbs. Chocolaty blackberry and marshmallow lavors carry into the sot inish, with almost no bite. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $13 Viñedos Marchigüe 2015 City Wine Reserva Merlot-Malbec (Colchagua Valley). This ofers lean, rustic olive and herbal berry aromas. It’s scratchy in feel, albeit lively, with generic red fruit lavors and a peppery, spicy inish. Paciic Rim Wine Logistics. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $10

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Almacruz 2015 Red (Colchagua Valley). This Carmenère blend opens with rustic roasted plum aromas. On the palate, it’s creamy but sort of hollow, with candied berry lavors that grow saucy with airing. It loses intensity on the inish. Wine Bridge Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $9

Hacienda del Sacramento 2016 VCP TannatMerlot (Colonia). This wine’s light color and smoky, spicy red plum aromas are easygoing. It has a mild concentration, with a touch of creaminess ofset by trimming acidity. Generic red fruit lavors are helped by oaky notes of vanilla and chocolate on the palate, inishing with a lingering taste of fresh plum and cherry. Italcibus Inc. —M.S. abv: 13.4% Price: $17 Marichal 2015 Reserve Collection Pinot NoirTannat (Canelones). This wine’s citrus peel and wet clay aromas include cherry and plum notes. An unusual blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Tannat, it’s lean and gritty, with raw acidity. Its spiced plum, red currant and tomato sauce lavors inish choppy, with dry, leafy notes. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20

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BUYINGGUIDE AGED RHUM

SPIRITS

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Rhum J.M VSOP (Martinique; Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). For full review see page 109. abv: 43% Price: $50

Rhum’s the word

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ou already know rum, but do you know Oaxaca, Mexico, a region better known for mezrhum? That little “h” makes a big difercal than rum—and the honeyed Lowcountry ence: unlike most rums, which are made Agricole from Charleston, made with juice from molasses, rhum agricole is made pressed from South Carolina cane. from pure sugarcane juice. Though it has a typSome rum-lovers will argue that the purity ical rum sweetness, rhum oten has a distinctive of unaged or minimally aged rhum agricole is grassy or wild “funky” note, which can read like the pinnacle of the expression. Those botbanana or tropical fruit. tlings certainly showcase what The sunny Caribbean makes rhum different from The sunny island of Martinique is widely molasses-made versions: It’s regarded as the spiritual home Caribbean island of that untamed grassy, loral and of rhum agricole. The island even Martinique is widely vegetal pungency. obtained an AOC for it in 1996: Yet, when rhum agriregarded as the Just like brandy from France’s cole spends some time in oak, spiritual home of that’s when they really start Cognac region is the only true Cognac, AOC rhum agricole is to blossom. Add mellow layers rhum agricole. produced from sugarcane grown of vanilla and spice, and that in one of 23 designated municiquirky banana funk transforms palities on Martinique. into banana bread or caramelized bananas However, Martinique has more than a litFoster. Of course, it’s possible to overdo the oak, tle competition these days. Damoiseau is made yet when used judiciously, aged rhums can be in nearby Guadeloupe, and The Arcane, a new among the most enticing, with complex layers line-up debuting in the U.S. in late 2018, hails of creamy honey and brown sugar—an ideal sipfrom Mauritania, in Northwestern Africa. Other per for contemplating future getaways, maybe exciting inds this month include the pungent, even to a sun-soaked locale where the sugargrassy Paranubes—a sugarcane spirit made in cane grows high. –Kara Newman

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The Arcane Delicatissime Grand Gold Rum (Mauritius; Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). Palatecoating vanilla and coconut set the stage for layers of orange peel, cofee, and spice. This rum lands lightly, with a smooth hint of dark chocolate. Ideal as a dessert pairing. Launching in the U.S. in late 2018. Best Buy. abv: 41% Price: $33

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The Arcane Extraroma Grand Amber Rum (Mauritius; Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). The bold, ofers smacks of banana tafy and circus peanuts. That tafy-like note is echoed on the palate, which inishes long and sweet, with waves of coconut, banana, almond and marshmallow, winding into a lip-smacking, spiced inish. Sip or mix into tropical cocktails. Launching in the U.S. in late 2018. abv: 40% Price: $43

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Clément XO (Martinique; Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). For full review see page 109. abv: 42% Price: $55

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Damoiseau VSOP (Guadeloupe, Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). Burnished gold in the glass, this rhum ofers a vanilla-forward aroma and light, smooth palate, with concentrated creamy honey and a long baking spice inish accented by a whif of Scotch-like smoke and lemon peel. Barrel-aged for a minimum of four years. abv: 42% Price: $45

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Rhum J.M X.O (Martinique; Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). For full review see page 109. abv: 45% Price: $75

BLANC RHUM

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Lowcountry Agricole (High Wire Distilling, Charleston, SC). This complex, intriguing rum is made 100% from South Carolina sugarcane, then barrel rested for 10 months. The end result is a golden-yellow hue and pungent aroma of banana bread. A long swath of palate-coating waxy honey leads the way, inishing long on touches of agave nectar, banana, nutmeg and cardamom. abv: 44% Price: $80

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HSE Rhum Blanc Agricole (Martinique; Baron Francois, New York, NY). Clear in the glass, look for a grassy, slightly funky scent and a silky palate that echoes that grassy, almost loral note. The inish is gentle but long, exiting with ginger and cinnamon sparks and a mouthwatering hint of banana. Best Buy. abv: 40% Price: $26/1 L

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Rhum J.M. 100 Blanc (Martinique; Spiribam, Wakefield, RI). As expected from a 100proof spirit, alcohol heat overwhelms from the irst sip to the peppery inish. Get beyond that, and the reward is a bright, honeyed scent and bold palate that shows lychee and rosewater, with bouncy bubblegum and rubber. Best Buy. abv: 50% Price: $35

Paranubes Rum (Mexico; Montañero Mezcal, Ophir, CA). An agricole rhum from Oaxaca, the region better known for mezcal, this is an exciting proposition. The liquid is clear in the glass, with a pungent, funky scent and bold notes of banana and cinnamon on the palate, inishing iery, though with a pleasing, leeting grassy exhale. Labeled as aguardiente de caña—cane irewater—this unaged bottling is a bit punishing as is, but the prospect of a mellower barrel-aged version down the line is enticing. Best Buy. abv: 54% Price: $40/1 L

HSE Rhum Agricole Extra Vieux Grand Reserve (Martinique; Baron Francois, New York, NY). Deep vanilla, tofee and espresso aromas lead the nose. The drying palate evokes chocolate-covered oranges, melding dark chocolate with a rounded inish that has pops of vanilla, orange and spice. abv: 43% Price: $83 HSE Rhum Agricole VSOP Reserve Speciale (Martinique; Baron Francois, New York, NY). This amber liquid has a luxuriously rich, concentrated brown sugar scent. Meanwhile, the palate shows dark layers of tofee, espresso and vanilla, inishing with a licker of orange peel and clove. According to the producer, this rhum undergoes a “very long aging process in Bourbon oak casks.” Unsurprisingly, it drinks like a long-aged Bourbon. abv: 45% Price: $47


of dried red fruits unfold on the nose and carry through to the medium-weight mouth. The mouthfeel is smooth and somewhat slick, though it’s countered by pronounced carbonation. A slightly cloying sweet-malt lavor lingers on the close. abv: 5.5% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

BEER Love for lagers

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hile we haven’t yet gotten to the at lower temperatures. This leads to a slower, scorching hot summer months, June longer fermentation and storage period (hence is a great time to prepare for all of the the name lager, from the German lagern, upcoming season’s outdoor entertainmeaning “to store”). ing, and the most appropriate accompanying And good news for lager lovers: The style is drinks. Though personal preferences vary, the deinitely having a moment. Ater years of bold, beer category that’s sure to quench your thirst powerful and oten hop-forward beers being the best is lager. darling of the crat beer scene, lagers are inally Known for being crisper, seeing their time to shine, as cleaner and more refreshing than thirsty consumers look for more ales, lagers shouldn’t be misin- Good news for lager nuanced, sessionable beers of terpreted as being boring. While lovers: The style is moderation and restraint. they are lighter in body and alcoIt’s true that lagers can also definitely having a hol than their ale brethren, they range in style and intensity, from moment. are moderate to high in carboncrisp Pilseners (also known as ation and ofer balanced proiles Pilsner or Pils) to robust Vienna and subtle characteristics that should be or amber lagers or even doppelbocks. But today, appreciated, not overlooked. American brewers are working on perfecting The main diference between lagers and ales the new breed of Amercian pale lager, one that is that ales are brewed with top-fermenting appeals to an immensely broad audience. We yeast while lagers are brewed with bottomcould only it a few reviews here, so be sure to fermenting yeast. Lager yeasts are inherently check out winemag.com/ratings to get the full more fragile than ale yeasts, with a lower alcoscoop on this month’s lager tastings. hol tolerance, and they undergo fermentation Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo

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Firestone Lager (American Pale Lager; Firestone Walker Brewing Co., CA). This canned beer is clear, pale-light gold in color, with a inger’s worth of white head that falls somewhat fast though it leaves decent lacing behind. It boasts subtle aromas and lavors, like lightly toasted grains, cereal, lemon peel and white lorals. The palate shows a touch more sweetness, with faint hints of lemon drop candy and honey-drizzled bread dough. It is light in body but smooth and remarkably clean, with medium carbonation and a crisp, dry inish that ofers a light cracker lavor and just a touch of bitterness. All in all, this is the very idea of what a lager should be to many people. abv: 4.5% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

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Founders Solid Gold (American Adjunct Lager; Founders Brewing Company, MI). This pours a rich medium-yellow color, with a serious head that lingers. It leads with clean hop notes of orange blossom and lemon zest that are set against a spine of fresh cracker malt and cracked corn, with faint hints of cilantro and sweet grass in the background. The light-plus-bodied mouthfeel boasts an extremely subtle creaminess, though bright carbonation keeps the palate crisp, with a pithy citrus-peel

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South Norte Sea Señor! Mex Lager (American Pale Lager; SouthNorte Beer Co., CA). While not overly deep or complex, this is a well-made and well-balanced beer that will certainly please fans of crisp, clean, easy-drinking lagers. It’s bright pale yellow and super clear in the glass, with faint notes of dried grass, fresh grains, bread and a touch of lemon pith on the nose and mouth. Light to medium in body, with brisk carbonation and a lightly drying inish, it’s an incredibly sessionable beer that’s ideal for warm-weather enjoyment. Available in 12 oz bottles and cans. abv: 4.5% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

CLASSIFIEDS

twang and a note of fresh hay that marks the close. Available in 6- and 15-can packs. abv: 4.4% Price: $15/12 oz 15 pack

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Victory Home Grown New American Lager (American Pale Lager; Victory Brewing Company, VT). There’s the slightest haze to this yellow gold-colored beer. The bouquet opens with upfront fresh-hop characteristics, expressed in waves of juicy orange and lemon supremes, grounded by a sweet grain, Honeycomb cereal-like core. The medium-bodied mouth ofers full lavors of cereal grain and a touch of caramel malt, which are balanced by ample carbonation to keep the palate lited. The inish is bitter and pithy, reminiscent of dried orange peel. An well-balanced choice for those looking for a sessionable hop-forward lager. abv: 4.8% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack

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Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co., Danish Red Lager (Vienna Lager; Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co., CA). Inspired by the red lagers of Denmark and the Danish-style village of Solvang in California’s Santa Ynez Valley, this pours a clear russet-red color with a small head that fades fast. Scents of caramel malt, toasted biscuit and a touch

SOFTWARE WINE CELLAR SOFTWARE. Cellaring guide plus inventory man-agement with rack display. Charts and reports show cellar contents, wines added or consumed. Decanter called it good fun.

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TASTING LIBERTY

WORDS MEAN THINGS Wine writer Julia Coney has heard some choice phrases at industry events.

“Excuse me, you look like you work here.” “Are you sure you’re in the right room?” “I’m sorry, I thought you were the help.” “How do you afford to travel like you do?”

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grew up in a house where words meant things. And not just the words themselves; “it’s not what you say, but how you say it,” echoed daily. I used to mock my parents for saying it until I became an adult and realized the adage’s simple truth. The above questions and statements are just a few things that have been said to me while I attended wine tastings. Did I mention I’m an African-American woman? Maybe I should have led with that. Now, read those statements again. Do you see a problem? Now multiply these statements with looks, comments and racial bias—real, not perceived. This is my wine life. My response to most of these statements was to ignore the person. Anything else would have given validation to their statements. I chose to act like they didn’t exist. There were no words needed.

The wine world is interesting. It’s wide and vast, but the thinking about who wine represents still sits in a time lapse. My beloved industry is made of dynamic, smart people, some of the kindest people I know. There’s an energy that makes me come alive when drinking, reading, writing and discussing wine. But, like most ields, there are issues around diversity that need to be addressed, and the lack of representation for people of color is a major problem. “Diversity” is a buzzword. It’s right up there with “lean in,” “woke” and “inclusive.” Words mean things, but without action, they turn into old-school lingo. I’m oten the only person of color at tastings. We represent less than 10% of attendees. How is this in 2018? I know many wine professionals of color. We’re out here, it’s not hard to ind us. We just need to be welcomed in. So, if you see me at a tasting, say hello. That’s a great place to start both change and a conversation. Don’t judge, and don’t make assumptions. Words mean things. Even the small ones. Whatever you do, don’t mistake me for the help.

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LEONELLO / GETTY

I know many wine professionals of color. We’re out here, it’s not hard to find us.


MADE FROM PURE SAUVIGNON BLANC GROWN IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE www.gerard-bertrand.com


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