COMMENT >> BEER
A close call
The beer guy (almost) meets Alexander Keith It is no secret that I am a bit of a Keith will be along shortly, one of Glassware existed, but would have sourpuss when it comes to Alexanthe brewers meets you, with further been far too expensive for the local der Keith's. It is the product of the apologies that Mr Keith is delayed, tavern. world's largest beer corporation, to show you through the brewhouse. AB-Inbev. However, that is not my Here, the tour resembles a stanBy far the biggest let down of the main complaint. Mostly I get mad dard one, with descriptions of the intour was the beer itself. I naturally because it continues to sell itself as gredients, an overview of the process, avoided the regular Keith's and optan India Pale Ale, which it most etc, except with a bit of a 19th ed for two of the newest additions. decidedly is not. In fact, the century feel—no kegs and The Keith's Tartan Ale was passable bloody thing isn't even an twist-off bottle caps here. as a malty lager/ale (it was unclear ale—it is a standard pale They play up the IPA aspect which it was), but a bit oversold— .com weekly lager in the genre of Molof the beer—which is both t@vue we were told it was aged in Scotch in p e toth son Canadian, Stella Artois authentic and infuriating. barrels. If so, it was for about 20 Jason Foster You see, back in 1863, Alexan- minutes. The Keith's Dark on the and Budweiser. To beer aficionados, the term India Pale Ale der Keith's really was an IPA (he other hand, was undrinkable. It means something quite particular also brewed porter and other ales), was thin, watery, slightly acrid with and specific, which Keith's breaks on with the hop bitterness to prove it. only the tiniest roast undercurrent. a dizzying number of levels. The beer lost its authenticity during Not sure what they were going for However, I found myself in Halifax the dreaded 1950s when brands were here, but it fails no matter what it for an extended period this spring. going down left and right and the surwas. Halifax, as many of you may know, is vivors turned their beer into the yelThey give you about 20 minutes the home of the original Alexander lowy fizzy drink we have today. to have a glass or two of one of Keith's brewery, first opened in 1820. He then gives you back to the origithe various Keith's products before Located in a historic stone building nal guide who leads you to the "Stag's sending you on your merry way via along the hara stone replica of bourfront, tothe tunnel Mr Keith Very quickly you realize this is no ordinary day it no lonhad dug between his tour. For the guide, the year is 1863 and she is house and the origiger produces determined to usher you into a meeting with beer, but it nal brewery (which does serve as was next door) so Mr Keith himself. a tourist atthat he could check traction with it out at any time of hourly tours. day or night. Despite my fears of getting caught in Head," their 19th century tavern, full Mr Keith never does show up, with a kitschy trap, I decided, for whatever with long wooden tables, old country apologies all around from the tavern reason, to give the tour a try. songs, card games of the period and staff. Now, I have been on many a brewbuxom servers. They work hard to feel It seems appropriate somehow. All ery tour. I enjoy most of them, but like a real old tavern, hiding the tap this build up and promise from Mr usually they offer the standard fare lines and kegs within wooden casks, Keith, resulting, ultimately, in a letof a trip through the brewhouse, exand giving the place a dark feel that down. Kind of like the beer. plaining the process in a rudimentary would match a winter evening on the Still, it was a fun hour. I don't regret way, and then a stop at a tap room Halifax harbour back then. Except, they doing it. And maybe not meeting Mr to sample some of the wares. No make one crucial, inexplicable mistake. Keith was for the best—I might have reason to complain about this; I just They served the beer in branded clear told him off and that would have mention it to juxtapose what they do glass mugs. Hello? In 1863 beer was been rude. V at the Halifax Keith's Brewery Tour. served in ceramic or fired clay steins. For that is not what we received (the ticket price is $16.95 per adult). Very quickly on you realize this is no ordinary tour. For the guide, the year is 1863 and she is determined to usher you into a meeting with Mr Keith himself. Questions about cell phones, the Internet or the Second World War are met with quizzical, flummoxed looks. However, she is proud to extol the virtues of the 19th century Keith. After leaving you with a video about the Halifax Mr Keith knew, and promising that Mr
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