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Vol 2 Issue 4 • Autumn 2018 • $4.95

CORK & KERRY DELIGHTS

Crafted

IN IRELAND

Genealogy

Ireland's

HIDDEN HEARTLANDS 02

In Association with

The North American Celtic Trade Association

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74470 26857

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Experience the very best of Ireland, Scotland, England & Wales in 2019 with CIE Tours! NEW! WEEKENDER COLLECTION

5 days from $598 land only

Enjoy a quick hop on one of these city breaks: Dublin Delight, London Locals, Easy Edinburgh. You’ll get all the freedom of independent travel with the added bonus of the expert knowledge only CIE Tours can provide. Or if you’d prefer to visit Ireland’s top scenic highlights, check out Kickin’ Killarney, a more traditional guided vacation.

Ireland, and it was absolutely wonderful. Our tour guide, Liam, did a marvelous job from start to finish. He was both

New Guided Vacation

IRISH FOODIE TOUR

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8 days from $1,998 land only

It’s a foodie’s delight as you explore Ireland’s food culture and heritage: meet cheeseand chocolate-makers, forage for nutritious seaweed at the shore, dine out in the culinary destination of Kinsale, visit traditional and artisanal producers in Cork’s bustling market, cook with a local chef, and much more.

making the tour informative and enjoyable. We had been wanting to visit Ireland for many years, and this tour exceeded

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IRISH MYTHS & LEGENDS

knowledgeable and entertaining,

8 days from $1,950 land only – children save $200

Your family adventure awaits with visits to charming towns and popular landmarks. Compete in a fun cook-off as you cook a traditional dish with a local chef. See a demonstration of sheepdogs as they herd their flock. Picnic on a beautiful island that was once a Victorian prison. Explore Dublin on a Viking splash tour. Special Event – Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day in Dublin!

THE WEARING OF THE GREEN

6 days from $1,390 land only

On March 17, 2019, CIE Tours will be at the heart of it all, hosting a private pre-parade party in the General Post Office – the most historic, iconic location in Dublin, and the best viewing spot in town. Join us for this guided vacation with the parade as the highlight. CIE Tours offers over 50 award-winning guided vacations to Ireland & Britain, including small group departures with a maximum of 26 guests, our Family Vacation Collection, exclusive private driver vacations, and custom independent trips. Contact your travel advisor or call

800.243.8687 | www.cietours.com Prices are land only, per person, based on double occupancy, and vary by departure date.

our expectations in almost every way. I would highly recommend CIE Tours for anyone who wants to see this beautiful country, with the peace of mind of knowing that you are in reputable, experienced hands.” – Rosemary and Mike, NY


SPIRIT OF IRELAND AUTUMN 2018

HOSTING THE WORLD SINCE 1798

Don’t just explore our heritage, immerse yourself in it… people from all over the world have set on a journey through the Dublin mountains to discover the quaint allurement that lies behind the doors at Johnnie Fox’s.

HAVE A HOOLEY Step back in time to discover the true Irish experience at the renowned Johnnie Fox’s Hooley Night - this includes the famous Fox’s troupe of Irish dancers, lively band playing traditional Irish music, a four course meal by our award winning kitchen and plenty of good ‘aul’ Irish craic.

From Presidents to Prime Ministers, from film icons to farmers, from sporting greats to singing legends, the pub has become famous for its guests and its true ‘Céad mile fáilte’. Johnnie Fox’s is inimitable to the pretender - It has often been copied, never equalled.

BOOK NOW

to avoid disappointment

www.johnniefoxs.com Phone: +353 1 2955647

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SPIRIT OF IRELAND AUTUMN 2018

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SPIRIT OF IRELAND AUTUMN 2018

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SPIRIT OF IRELAND AUTUMN 2018

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SPIRIT OF IRELAND AUTUMN 2018

Contents

11 IRELAND’S HIDDEN HEARTLANDS Some of Ireland’s finest natural assets are in the Hidden Heartlands including spectacular lakes, walkways and blueways. 43

HILLS OF CONNEMARA Fall in love with Connemara and read about one of its most enduring love stories.

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YEATS COUNTY WB Yeats is one of the most romantic poets ever and Sligo is his ancestral home, a place he dearly loved and where he is buried.

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LAND OF LAKES With a lake for every day of the year, Cavan is a watery wonderland nestled between Northern and Southern Ireland.

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NORTHERN STARS Northern Ireland’s largest mountain range, and an area of outstanding natural beauty, is just waiting to be explored.

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WILD ABOUT WEST CORK No wonder they call West Cork ‘a place apart.’ Nature sets the pace here from pretty towns to three rugged peninsulas reaching into the Atlantic.

119 ISLAND LIFE Like wildlife and raw natural beauty, creativity is in abundance on the pretty little island of Sherkin, known as Island of the Arts. 127 THE KINGDOM OF KERRY The mountains, lakes and coastline around Kerry are the picture-postcard image of Ireland. They don’t call it The Kingdom for nothing. Visit and you’ll see why. 7


SPIRIT OF IRELAND AUTUMN 2018

CELTIC RIDER

CELTIC RIDER

MO T O RC YC L E R E N TA L & C A R TOU R S I R E L A N D

Celtic Rider pioneered motorcycle tourism in Ireland in 2007. We offer award-winning self-guided tours on all new-model motorcycles and cars. We have 56 bikes in our fleet an pride ourselves in our 5 star rating on TripAdvisor, Google and Facebook. Read what our customers have to say about us yourself!

www.celticrider.com www.celticridercartours.com @CelticRiderIreland Email: info@celticrider.com Phone: 00353 45842862 8

‘We look forward to pla nn trip of a lifetime with ing your Louise, Paul, Siobhán you!’, & Liam


SPIRIT OF IRELAND AUTUMN 2018

193 DELIGHTS OF DUBLIN A city brimming with energy; over 1000 pubs, Dublin will charm you with its character and surprise you with its coastal gems. 221 WILD ABOUT WICKLOW A pleasure garden of coastline, woodland and mountains, Wicklow is the epitome of a rugged, romantic Ireland. 226 GARDEN OF IRELAND It isn’t called the Emerald Isle for nothing! The climate in Ireland may take its knocks but it is perfect for cultivating some spectacular gardens. 233 TRACE YOUR PAST At last count over 80 million people claim Irish descent. Where to start? How do you find your way back home? 241 IRISH CRAFT Irish craft has hit the stratosphere in recent times yet many of our top producers work in relatively small cottage style industries. 253 WEARING IRISH Who isn’t proud to be Irish? Well wearing it with pride is what the WearingIrish movement is all about. EDITOR Trish Phelan trish@devlinmedia.org MANAGING DIRECTOR

John Hogan PRODUCTION MANAGER Joanne Punch

AD COPY ADMIN Elaine Harley Annie Moriarty SALES Helen Fairbrother, Paul Halley, Linda Hickey, Eamonn McGabhann GRAPHIC DESIGN

DISTRIBUTION North American Celtic Trade Association Celtic Marketplace Tourism Ireland Barnes & Noble JP DEVLIN USA 76 Ellsworth Rd, Hyannis 02601 MA, USA

www.minxdesign.ie

Whilst every effort has been made to make the information contained herein as comprehensive and accurate as possible the publishers accept no responsibility for additions, omissions or errors. No part of this publication can be copied or produced without the editor’s consent in writing.

PHOTOGRAPHY Tourism Ireland 345 Park Ave, 17th Floor New York, NY 10154 www.ireland.com Stefan Schnebelt www.stefanschnebelt.com www.irelandinpictures.com Cover: Bloody Foreland, Donegal by Stefan Schnebelt

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EAGLES FLYING

HIDDEN HEARTLANDS

PREM TOUR IER IST DEST INATI IN TH ON E NORT H WE ALL W ST EA

IRISH RAPTOR RESEARCH CENTRE

SUITA THER BLE

Image courtesy of Alex Zarodov

SCIENTIFICALLY MANAGED SANCTUARY FOR BIRDS OF PREY & OWLS

RAIN OR SHINE – ALWAYS A GREAT DAY OUT FOR ALL THE FAMILY Get up-close with Eagles, Hawks, Falcons, Vultures and Owls. Eagles Flying makes your dreams come true. During our fascinating, entertaining and interactive shows you can learn from scientists about their biology. You have never been that close to Eagles. Experience Eagles swooping only inches over your head or have a raptor landing on your bare arm. Watch the “Bird Whisperers” at work! 10

You will have great photo opportunities with no extra costs. Eagles Flying is Ireland’s largest raptor center and home to more than 100 raptors and another 350 birds and animals out of 85 different species. During the 2 hours programme you can avail of the guided tours through the centre, enjoy the one hours bird show and eventually get handson with various animals in our supervised Touch-Zoo section.

OPENING TIMES: 10.30 a.m - 12.30 p.m 2.30.p.m - 4.30 p.m 2 shows daily at 11 a.m. & 3 p.m. 7 Days 1st April - 7th Nov. 2 hours programme: Guided tour, Bird Show, Touch-Zoo Picnic Area / Kiosk / free parking fully wheelchair-accessible. Drive off the N17 at Ballinacarrow just follow the signs.

Ballymote, Co. Sligo Tel: 071 - 9189310 www.eaglesflying.com


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS

Ireland's

HIDDEN HEARTLANDS IRELAND’S NEW TOURISM BRAND IS ALL ABOUT MIDLANDS MAGIC. TAKE A JOURNEY INTO THE UNKNOWN AND UNCOVER THE VERY HEARTBEAT OF IRELAND.

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ith its picture postcard scenery, proximity to the Shannon, and position as the ‘heart of Ireland’, Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands has staked its claim as a prime spot for a relaxing getaway. Stretching across nine counties, the region has distinctive qualities that matter when it comes to embracing the essential characteristics of nature: rural locations that are rich with wildlife, small localities that bear the hallmark of instinctive warm welcomes, and landscapes that are equal parts rugged and beautiful.

Tap into the relaxed rhythm of Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands to uncover unexplored tracks and trails, beguiling blueways, exciting waterside towns and picturesque rural villages. Whether it’s an on-the-water adventure, a tranquil river cruise or a journey through heritage and history, there’s plenty to see and do in the very heart of Ireland. RIVER SHANNON The country’s waterway trails run through a wonderfully serene and scenic network of lakes 11


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and rivers that aren’t always the most obvious choices for tourists. That is their charm – and it’s well worth the little effort involved in unearthing these gentle gems. The key is Ireland’s longest river, the Shannon, which flows from Cavan in the north until it meets the sea at Limerick. Measuring 360km, it beats Britain’s longest waterway – the mighty Severn – by 6km. For millennia it has been the traditional boundary between ‘the west’ and the rest of Ireland – while also comprising a fascinating world all of its own. One of Ireland’s most popular inland resorts along the river is Carrick-on-Shannon, a county town of Leitrim and the cruising capital of the Shannon. With 750km of cruising on offer, the 12

town is perfectly poised as the gateway to the Shannon to the south and the Shannon-Erne waterway to the north. Surrounded by unspoiled scenery, it’s long been renowned as an angler’s paradise with many species of game and coarse fish available within a short distance of the town. Whether you want to rent a cruiser or pick up a paddleboat, go fishing or indulge in a little retail therapy on the traditional streetscape, there is a diverse range of things to do in Carrick-onShannon. Cruising on the river is an idyllic way to see the county if even for just one day so make your way to the marina for cruising with one of the many craft rentals. Lough Key, just two leisurely hours away by boat is brim full of activities.


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS

With its picture postcard scenery, proximity to the Shannon, and position as the ‘heart of Ireland’, Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands has staked its claim as a prime spot for a relaxing getaway.

You can cruise through Lough Key and onto the Boyle canal, to a harbor area close to the town of Boyle, approximately a half hour cruise. There’s a walkway to get to the town, approximately a 20 minutes’ stroll. Once you’re there, the King House in Boyle, a magnificently restored Georgian mansion with interpretive exhibitions designed for both adults and children, is well worth a visit and if you have time, the impressively preserved Cistercian Abbey is a must too. Of course, if you can’t catch a boat, you can drive from Carrick-onShannon to Lough Key in 20 minutes and follow the same itinerary, without the wet feet. Make sure to stop at Lough Key Forest Park

on the outskirts of Boyle for the Lough Key experience that takes you on a journey to discover how humans shaped the landscape over thousands of years. The audio trail of the park’s history, flora and fauna through the 19th century underground tunnels traverses to the top of the refurbished five-story Moylurg viewing tower and along a contemporary tree canopy walk. The tour is self-guided so you can choose your own pace. For the adventurous there is zip-line action at the Zipit Forest Adventures, a treetop activity center in the park with five tracks. You can also avail of electric bike trails or of a more traditional pushbike to cycle the 8km woodland 13


5000 years of stories begin here

Heritage Tours Arts Workshops Craft Shop

Explore Rathcroghan and Medieval Tulsk,

through our year round, all weather, award winning interpretive exhibition rooms. Here you will walk into the stories, archaeology and history of Connacht’s prehistoric capital and the oldest and largest unexcavated royal site in Ireland. Tread across this ancient landscape in the footsteps of the great Warrior Queen Medb and experience the legendary Oweynagat (the Cave of the Cats), Ireland’s Gate to Hell and the traditional home of Halloween. Discover how our Iron Age and medieval ancestors lived, how they survived and what they believed in, in the heart of Connacht’s royal capital.

Rathcroghan Visitor Centre Ardagh Heritage and Creativity Centre Ardagh, Co. Longford creativeardagh@gmail.com 086 3027602 creativeardagh.blogspot.ie 086 1717925

Arigna Mining

Experience Discover and Experience the fascinating life of a coal miner. Tours are guided by ex-miners

Cruachan Aí, Tulsk, Castlerea, Co. Roscommon, Ireland Phone: 00353 (0)71 9639268 Web:    http://www.rathcroghan.ie Facebook:  www.Facebook.com/Rathcroghan Twitter: @Rathcroghan

Arigna, Carrick-on-Shannon, Co. Roscommon. Phone: +353 71 964 6466 Opening Hours: Mon-Sun 10:00am - 5.00pm (Last Tour) 5.00pm

The No.1 Attraction in Roscommon

Trip Advisor Traveller Ratings

A Unique Underground Tour of what was Ireland’s last working coal mine at Arigna, Co. Roscommon

Find us on... www.arignaminingexperience.ie

The Fatted Calf Restaurant is a family run restaurant located on Church St, Athlone close to hotels, train station, bus station and the river Shannon. Our philosophy is that we source seasonal produce from small, local producers, where possible and our menus reflect this. Our beef is supplied by one of Ireland’s top beef supplier, John Stone Beef, and which is renowned worldwide for quality Irish beef. Open for lunch Tuesday – Saturday, 12:30pm until 3pm Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday, 5:30pm until 9:30pm Phone +353 906433371 or email info@thefattedcalf.ie for enquiries Follow us on @TheFattedCalf, thefattedcalf1 The Fatted Calf Restaurant

www.thefattedcalf.ie


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS

trail through the park. For a quirkier means of getting around, Woodland Segway offer guided tours on Segways. The most popular trip, the Rockingham Roll, will take you gliding around Rockingham Lawn for 30 minutes of fun. A less adventurous approach but equally as impressive is to tour the area by bike. Make your way to Leitrim village just outside Carrickon-Shannon to Electric Bike Hire where you can hire regular hybrid bikes or electric bikes, available to adults and families for half and full days. If you don’t drive, the bikes can be delivered to your hotel in Carrick-on-Shannon. Otherwise, it’s recommended to begin from Leitrim village which is at the start of the Shannon Blueway, a network of multi-activity recreational trails by bike, foot or kayak. Cycle to Drumshanbo, about an hour’s leisurely spin along a canal bank, crossing the floating boardwalk at Acres Lake, nicknamed the ‘snake in the lake’. At Acres Lake amenity site, there’s a tennis court, playground and open-air swimming pool that is open from June to the end of August. For the water sports enthusiast, a trip to the nearby Lough Allen Adventure Centre is a must. Drumshanbo has also gained fame for its ‘stylish silage’ competition, held as part of An Tóstal festival, that holds a ‘wrap’ party with a difference. Once you’ve had your fill of exploring, we recommend lunch at The Sweet Geranium or the Lough Allen Hotel, Drumshanbo, home to the renowned Gunpowder Irish Gin. The gin was developed by serial entrepreneur PJ Rigney who is planning a major visitor experience on-site.

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In the evening head back towards Carrickon-Shannon for your final foodie treat, at St George’s Terrace restaurant in a Victorian redbrick bank building. A homecoming for chef Dave Fitzgibbon who owns the premises with Siobhan Smyth, its tasting menu is a total treat. If you feel like a spin out of town, make your way into Jamestown by car or bike for a fusion Asian-Irish feast at The Cottage Restaurant, by the river and weir. A traditional half door leads into a contemporary dining space where wellknown chef Sham tempts the taste buds from Thursday to Sunday. It’s worth the trip as the food is the height of fine dining, working both 16

as a feast for the eyes and the belly. Once you’re suitably stuffed (the monkfish is a must), wrap your stay up with a live music session in a local pub. Flynns, the Swan and Dunnes are usually good shouts, but check their schedules beforehand as performance days may change! It’s quintessentially Irish and completely relaxing. HISTORY & HERITAGE IN ATHLONE A heritage town in the heart of Ireland, Athlone is a former garrison town divided in two by the magnificent River Shannon. It is chockfull of things to do with an abundance of nature activities in walks, cycle trails, and boat trips.


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS

Tap into the relaxed rhythm of Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands to uncover unexplored tracks and trails, beguiling blueways, exciting waterside towns and picturesque rural villages. Athlone Castle is the obvious go-to, but in its (literal) shadow lies a peaceful town of history and heritage with easy access to sprawling greenways, watery adventure and a pace of life that’ll help you unwind from the stresses of modern life. Start your adventure at Athlone Castle, a mustvisit. Dating from 1210, the structure is key to understanding the town’s growth through the centuries. The castle’s Keep is a National Monument, and the Visitor Centre provides scheduled guided tours during peak season. Allow between 60-75 minutes for a complete visit and remember that opening hours are seasonal, so check the website for times and

admission prices. Combine history with fresh air by taking a Viking Tour cruise on the River Shannon on a replica Viking boat, and hear tales and talks of 300 years of the locale’s Viking past. A perfect excuse for kids young and old to dress up and have fun. Water levels and weather permitting, sails depart daily from the quayside at Athlone Castle. If Vikings aren’t quite your thing, take a Romaris Boat Trip and hop aboard an elegantly restored 60ft vintage motor yacht that offers a choice of pleasant journeys, from 90-minute ‘standards’ and three-hour dinner trips to a six-hour dinner cruise 17


Clare Museum

Admission is FREE!

6,000 years of history excitingly captured! Discover authentic artefacts, colourful text panels and touch-screen inter-actives in the Riches of Clare exhibition. The Riches of Clare exhibition at Clare Museum tells the history of the county over a period of 6,000 years using authentic artefacts, colourful text panels and audio-visual presentations.

Ballymorris Pottery workshops are open to the public, where work in progress can be seen, as well as the full range of beautiful pottery. • • • • •

Admission is free with ample car parking and free coach parking beside the museum. Large groups should book in advance.

Beautiful handmade stoneware pottery Bespoke work made to order Baby prints in clay Pottery classes Pottery parties and sessions for families, children, friends and work groups

If you fancy having a go Ballymorris Pottery School offers “hands on” sessions for families, children, friends and work groups can be arranged to experience making your very own piece of pottery. Ballymorris Pottery, Cratloe, Co. Clare. 061 357118 hannah@ballymorrispottery.ie

Clare Museum, Arthur’s Row, Ennis, County Clare. Opening Hours: October to May: Tuesday to Saturday 9.30 - 13.00 (last admissions 12.30) and 14.00 to 17.00. June to September: Monday to Saturday 9.00 - 13.00 (last admissions 12.30) and 14.00 to 17.00. Closed Bank Holidays weekends.

Sacred Irish Tours

Ballymorris Pottery 1/4.indd 1

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Newgrange, The Boyne Valley

SMALL GROUP DAY-TOURS

TO THE ANCIENT SACRED SITES OF IRELAND

This Fully Guided Day Tour Includes:  NEWGRANGE – The 5,200 year old Megalithic Temple  HILL OF TARA – The Coronation site for the High Kings of Ireland  TRIM CASTLE – The Largest 12th century Norman castle in Ireland  BECTIVE ABBEY – The 12th century Abbey associated with the Knights Templar Email:liam@sacredirishtours.com or visit

www.sacredirishtours.com

04/09/2018 20:26

KATIE’S CLADDAGH COTTAGE Step back in time & experience one of Galway’s most popular heritage centres. Fascinating history, folklore & culture. AUTHENTIC SHOP & TEA ROOM WITH 100% IRISH DESIGN BOOK your unique individual or group tour. The Claddagh ring, known all over the world as a symbol of love, loyalty and friendship, originated in a small Gaelic-speaking village on the outskirts of Galway City. It is now possible to walk in the footsteps of the original Claddagh families and experience life as it was 100 years ago. This restored traditional thatched cottage (only a 400 meter stroll from the heart of medieval Galway) provides visitors with insight into what life was like in a traditional Wild Atlantic fishing village (also famous for the tradition of Hooker boat-building). Basic Tour Experience with Tea, Coffee, Scone or Homemade Irish Brack Cake: €10 per person. Bespoke tours with music & entertainment available. For online booking & info: www.claddaghdesigns.ie / claddaghcottagecrafts@gmail.com / +353 87 828 0848


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS

to the preserved monastic site of Clonmacnoise. Next up is Luan Gallery, easily one of Ireland’s best provincial art spaces. Situated across the road from Athlone Castle, and with floor-toceiling windows that provide luminous views of the River Shannon, the mix of displayed artwork

(which alters every two months) is never less than enthralling. Admission is free, as are oneto-one tours of the gallery artwork. Make your way around the back of the castle to an equally historic part of Athlone – Sean’s Bar. The Guinness Book of Records has claimed it

Dating from 1210 Athlone Castle is a real treat, overlooking an enchanting jumble of twisting streets, colourful houses, antique shops and historic pubs. 19


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as Ireland’s Oldest Pub, while its documented history dates back to 900AD (making it, potentially, the world’s oldest). Whatever about age, the bar itself is a joy to behold, with its mix of antiquity and craic. A daily historical tour of the pub starts at 11am.

Afternoons are perfect for exploring, stretching the legs or hiring a bike. A rural course through Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands, the Old Rail Trail is a designated cycle path that starts at Garrycastle (on the eastern edge of Athlone) and continues for 40km to the market town of Mullingar.

For a memorable meal head for The Fatted Calf. Attentively overseen by husband and wife duo Feargal and Fiona O’Donnell, this Michelinlisted restaurant is a great spot to eat with its locally sourced ingredients cooked to order. Lunch nibbles include black pudding bonbons and Bramley apples, so make sure to sample the artisan slow-food Irish cheese board, which comes with irresistible homemade stone-fruit chutney and crunchy cheese biscuits. It’s closed on Sundays and Mondays, so pick your days carefully because the cheese board is a must.

If you’re in Athlone on a Friday or Saturday, put a pep in your step and sign up for the Whiskey Walking Tour starting at 7pm. Once a busy hub of distilling (the earliest record can be traced as far back as 1740), Athlone’s distilleries used to produce up to 50,000 gallons of whiskey per year. The Walking Tour takes approximately 1.5 hours and outlines the history of the town’s distilling tradition. Participants can also sample four local whiskeys (two of which come with handcrafted local chocolate pairings, courtesy of Kilbeggan Handmade Chocolate company).

To the rear of Athlone Castle is the Shannon Banks Nature Trail taking in about 5km of a circled bidirectional walk along the west banks of the River Shannon and the old Athlone Canal. Along the route, amblers are informed of diverse species of wildlife, fish, flora, fauna and various grasslands by a series of well-positioned information boards.

In Glasson village (a 9km spin from Athlone), you’ll find Wineport Lodge which has a renowned restaurant delivering aromatic food with a background of unbroken views of a soothing lake. What more could you want?

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LOUGH DERG Legend has it that the name Lough Derg is derived from the Gaelic word for red – dearg. Apparently, one-eyed king Eochy Mac Luchta was once asked by poet Athirne for his remaining eye and obliging fellow that he was, he plucked it out, staining the waters of the lake red as a result. Thankfully, the lake’s waters have long since returned to their natural sparkling blue/grey hues. Lough Derg is the 3rd largest lake in Ireland. The lakeshore is dotted with picturesque villages offering boat hire, mooring and leisure facilities and an excellent variety of restaurants and pubs, many with live traditional music sessions. A relaxing boat trip on the Spirit of Killaloe or the Spirit of Lough Derg is a lovely way to experience the breath-taking scenery of the lake. While here a trip to the famous monastic settlement of Holy Island or Inis Cealtra is a must. It’s not hard to work out how it got its name with the ruins of no fewer than six churches on this tiny but pious isle, which is awaiting approval as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Local historian, Ger Madden, offers guided tours from Mountshannon to this ancient monastic

settlement, which also has a round tower and an 8th century graveyard. If all this spirituality inspires you to renew your marriage vows, you can do so over a special “bargaining stone” on the island. Ger can probably give you a bit of background also on the fascinating Famine Workhouse Museum. The Portumna region was hit sobadly by the failure of the potato crop that the population shrank by over 66 percent during the brutal years of famine.

The Lough Derg lakeshore is dotted with picturesque villages offering boat hire, mooring and leisure facilities and an excellent variety of restaurants and pubs, many with live traditional music sessions.

A visit to Portumna Castle & Gardens will lighten your mood after that dose of Irish history. Built in 1618 by Richard de Burgo, 4th Earl of Clanricarde, the castle was the seat of the De Burgo family for more than 200 years. It was badly damaged by a fire in 1826, but parts have been restored and the ground floor is open to the public. While you’re there, make sure to enjoy the lovely gardens which are planted with organic vegetables, herbs, and flowers. Back on dry land, focus on your feet with a relaxed stroll around the town taking in St. Flannan’s Cathedral in Killaloe and its unique stone carvings 21


D

iscover tales of bravery and } sacrifice, fierce battles, and territories won and lost…

ATHLONE CASTLE www.athlonecastle.ie

LUAN GALLERY contemporary visual art

Luan Gallery is Athlone’s municipal visual art gallery. Featuring exhibitions of contemporary and traditional art.

www.luangallery.ie

LUAN GALLERY

A Fairy Tale Castle in the Irish Countryside

LISHEEN CASTLE, COUNTY TIPPERARY, IRELAND Escorted Touring Vacations or Group Vacation Rental option available Please visit www.lisheencastle.com for more information


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS

in runes and ogham. Killaloe and neighboring town Ballina are joined by a spectacular 13-arch bridge. Even with this majestic structure it’s still hard to believe that picturesque little Killaloe was once known as the ‘Capital of Ireland’. Yet it’s the birthplace of Brian Boru, the High King who won a famous battle against the Vikings and their Dublin pals in the Battle of Clontarf, turfing them out of Ireland in the process. While you’re in Killaloe, the Brian Boru Heritage Centre is worth a visit too. With a tourist information office, gift shop, craft center and an exhibition tracing the history of Killaloe from the 10th century, you’ll learn loads about the last High King and Lough Derg itself. For a treat, it’s worth the 30-minute drive to Garrykennedy for lunch at Larkin’s awardwinning bar & restaurant. This famous pub also has live music on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays, including trad sessions on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and so could tempt you to stick around for a few hours.

There are excellent walking trails around Killaloe, for example the Ballycuggaran Loop which is of moderate intensity and takes approximately 1.52 hours. It starts at Ballycuggaran, County Clare, which was the homeland of the O’Cuggarans, an important family at the court of Brian Boru. While the history is interesting, it’s the stunning views along the route that’ll enthrall you. As the sun goes down you might like a bite to eat at the Tuscany Bistro across the bridge in neighboring Ballina offering high quality modern Italian food in atmospheric surroundings. If you fancy more traditional Irish fare, try Goosers Bar & Restaurant which serves a wide selection of steaks, seafood and Irish dishes at reasonable prices. Finish up your day in Lough Derg with a taste of the nightlife. Flanagan’s on the lake is a must for a cozy pint on a warm night with its spectacular views of Ballina and Killaloe. Have a drink or two, relax and let the joy of Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands wash over you. 23


TEXT | PLACE

A cruise on Shannon Princess is the perfect way to discover the very soul of Ireland. The Shannon Princess is the perfect way to explore what the river and her loughs have to offer. Guests on board will enjoy all the indulgent comforts of their own private floating luxury hotel, an unforgettable experience that will create memories forever. BOOKINGS & INFORMATION www.shannonprincess.com

Email: info@shannonprincess.com

/BargeCruises/ /floatingkitchen

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Cruise Ireland`s WATERWAYS

TAKE A LUXURY HOTEL BARGE CRUISE ON THE RIVER SHANNON AN AREA OF NATURAL BEAUTY, UNSPOILED LANDSCAPES, WILD FOWL RESERVES, HISTORY, ANTIQUITY AND FOLKLORE – A TRIP OF A LIFETIME.

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ll aboard on the Shannon Princess, a boutique hotel barge that cruises the fabled River Shannon and its loughs in Ireland. This luxurious barge provides accommodation for up to 10 guests in 5 en-suite cabins. Owned and operated by Ruairi & Olivia Gibbons, the couple have combined their passion for hospitality and boating into a unique traveler experience. Enjoy living life at the glorious pace of the Shannon Princess on a magical barge vacation. Cruise through the heart of Ireland, moor at riverside villages, and experience private guided shore visits. Thoughtfully designed throughout, the Shannon Princess provides all of the indulgent comforts of a private floating hotel. The classic Saloon mixes contemporary styles with local arts and antiques and it has a beautiful flower filled viewing deck. Each of the 5 stylish light filled staterooms can be configured as twin or double cabins and all have modern ensuite bathrooms. A large terrace style sun deck with oversized rattan sofas, armchairs, dining table & BBQ area add to the Shannon Princess experience. Deluxe onboard accommodations include air conditioning, spa pool, Wi-Fi, delicious cuisine and curated wines. Shannon Princess is proud of its reputation for fantastic food, with an emphasis on modern local cuisine. Each day menus are prepared by sourcing the finest and freshest free range and

organic produces from farm shops and country markets along the River Shannon and from the coast.

fun. This is a very popular cruise choice and has always delivered above and beyond expectation.

Onboard Shannon Princess your hosts and their attentive crew delight in showcasing a carefully chosen selection of excellent fine wines, whiskeys and spirits from local distilleries, craft beers and indulgent liqueurs, all perfect as a complement to gourmet dining or for sundowners on deck.

Golfers will love the Golf Cruise which includes three of Europe’s best golf courses. Test your skills at the K Club, Adare Manor Golf Resort, Lahinch Old Course and Glasson Golf & Country Club. Set among the backdrop of lush Irish countryside and scenery, you will play on some of the finest golf courses in Europe.

Designed to suit all tastes, there are four distinct cruise experiences. The Classic Cruise is a great mix of sightseeing, shore excursions and cruising while enjoying all that the River Shannon has to offer. Enjoy morning strolls through lakeshore lanes, relax on deck as you cruise through ever-changing landscapes, crumbling ivy covered ruins, medieval garrisons & sleepy market villages. Extra activities may also be added on a pay as you go basis such as golf, fishing & horse riding.

The Shannon Princess can be booked on an individual cabin basis or as an exclusive charter for up to 10 guests. Cruises are a fixed 6-night/7- day duration, commencing Sunday and ending on Saturday, April through to October. www.shannonprincess.com

The Walking Cruise includes a walking itinerary that enables guests to incorporate a walking holiday with a luxury cruise, visiting carefully selected areas of interest and taking place over 5 days of the 6-nights cruise Daily walks cover between 14 & 20 km. Families will love the Family Charter, a perfect casual cruise choice for families of all ages or for a group of friends. It is relaxed in style, tailor made and above all great 25


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS | LOUGH DERG

Experience the

LOUGH DERG BLUEWAY ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING PARTS OF A VACATION IS PLANNING WHERE YOU WANT TO GO. HAVE YOU GOT A TASTE FOR ADVENTURE? THEN LET THE LOUGH DERG BLUEWAY BLOW YOU AWAY WITH ITS BEAUTY!

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hether you’re a family, a couple, or a lone wolf, Lough Derg will provide you with more than enough adventure to keep you going. With its blissful, blue, clear water and beautiful, dramatic surrounding countryside, the Lough Derg Blueway stretches across three Irish counties - Clare, Tipperary and Galway - each with its own list of activities, trails and loops to

explore. Best of all, you can do it your way - by canoe, paddle board, under sail, cruising, by bicycle or by foot. North, south, east and west, we simply can’t choose a favourite, so you’ll have a ball no matter where you go. If you really can’t decide, here are the highlights along the Lough Derg Blueway. 27


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS | LOUGH DERG

Built by Theobald Walter (first of the Butlers of Ormond) around 1200, Nenagh Castle boasts the finest cylindrical keep in Ireland.

NORTHERN HIGHLIGHTS: Portumna, Terryglass & Lorrha The northern side of the lake has plenty to offer, from walking to kayaking, driving to horseriding. There are plenty of ways to enjoy this part of Lough Derg and more activities than you can fit into a weekend. If you’re looking for a good hike, there’s no shortage of beautiful trails in Portumna Forest Park, with a range of different hike lengths so you can find one suited to your family or group, and many are bike trails also. Don’t pass up the chance to watch beautiful white-tailed eagles from a bird hide in the forest - if you’re lucky enough to see them, it’s an inspiring experience. Visit Portumna Castle to bring you back in time to the 17th Century and why not recharge in the newly-opened tea rooms and enjoy some delicious treats in the historical surroundings on the castle grounds? There’s plenty in the way of accommodation up this side of the lake too, but if you’re looking for something a little bit different, check out the ‘glamping’ facilities at Podumna. The little wooden pods offer a unique experience, with all the fun and feel of a woodland setting in a convenient town central location and bikes for rent too. Don’t miss the opportunity to try kayaking in Terryglass with Lough Derg Water Sports. Learn from the experts as you tour around the beautiful harbour and lake at your own pace. The harbour also offers an excellent playground and the country village is home to two welcoming bars with restaurants. Lorrha Monastic Village is just a short spin from the lake and is home to important ecclesiastical ruins, well worth a visit and try to catch a local tour while you are there to hear the ancient tales of the area. 28


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS | LOUGH DERG

EASTERN PROMISE: Garrykennedy, Nenagh & Dromineer Dromineer is a beautiful place to gaze across Lough Derg, listening to the water lapping and the clinking of the dinghies in the small harbour. Stroll beside the boats, let the children loose in the playground, or at ‘Aquasplash’, an inflatable water park operating in the summer months; or go back in time and immerse yourself in local heritage at Garrykennedy Castle - this area is perfect for casual strolling close to the water in the woods, or along the harbour, watching the yachts and cruisers come and go. There are two lovely traditional Irish pubs in the idyllic village, and Larkin’s serves some top-notch food. Visit on a Sunday if you can as they have a great traditional Irish Music session in the evenings and additionally on Wednesdays in summer. If you fancy a cycle, then follow the North Tipperary Cycle Routes that take in Nenagh, Terryglass, Garrykennedy, Cloughjordan and Borrisokane. Don’t miss the chance to climb the 101 steps to the top of the majestic Nenagh Castle; while surveying your surroundings, and you’ll see Lough Derg and beyond in the distance. The Lough Derg area has a rightly deserved reputation for gastronomy - options for fine dining or grazing at a farmer’s market are equally catered for through ‘A Taste of Lough Derg’. See www.atasteofloughderg.ie for a series of summer food events for visitors to enjoy. If you’ve only time for one walk in this part of the lake then make it the Arra Mountain Loop. This looped walk will take approximately 6 hours to complete. Travelling over tarmac, bog roads, farm tracks, gravel paths and fields, it winds past the northern edge of the Slieve Arra. It is a strenuous walk with some climbing, so it’s not for the faint of heart! There are wooden steps up most of Laghtea Hill but stick with it and you will be rewarded with spectacular views of Lough Der

There are two lovely traditional Irish pubs in the idyllic village of Dromineer and Larkin’s serves some top-notch food as well as some great entertainment.

For your holiday photo, stop off at The Lookout in Portroe offering panoramic views of Lough Derg and take a trip down to Castlelough for a swim in the lake, or stroll in the woods, where fairy doors adorn the trees. All that is before you even consider the kayaking, horse-riding, stand-up paddling, cycling and variety of other activities on offer around Lough Derg. 29


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS | LOUGH DERG

SOUTHERN SIGHTS: Ballycuggeran, Killaloe/Ballina In Killaloe/Ballina, Lough Derg is in the centre of everything; it bustles with sailing boats and cruisers and echoes with the clink of halyards on masts. If you want to unwind and relax then experience the area from the water in the comfort of Killaloe River Cruises. Enjoy a different perspective of Killaloe from the water by contacting Soulkite Stand Up Paddling to arrange a trip along the Shannon and the picturesque canal. You’ll have a blast trying to maintain your balance and, once you do, you’ll be the envy of everyone watching from the shore - provided they haven’t already seen you fall off 15 times! There are significant architectural and heritage sites close to Killaloe/Ballina. You can undertake a self-guided tour of this historic area, or be guided by a local if you’d like to hear all the local stories. The tour includes the 13th Century 30

St Flannan’s Cathedral with its Ogham stone carvings, Romanesque doorway and the tomb of Muircheartaigh, the last O’Brien to be High King of Ireland. Killaloe is also home to two oratories – named after St. Flannan and St. Lua. The twin towns are home to elegant boutiques, bakeries, artisan shops and galleries - making it the perfect location to explore the old and the new. There is a beautiful riverside park and seasonal outdoor swimming pool, plenty of moorings for cruisers, and the jetty offers a platform to fish from. There are many enticing eateries dotted around the twin towns, making it difficult to choose, but The Wooden Spoon, Goosers, Tuscany and Flanagans are hard to pass by. And with two hotels and many self-catering and guest house options, you won’t be stuck for a place to stay either.

Don’t miss the opportunity to try kayaking in Terryglass. Learn from the experts as you navigate the beautiful harbour and lake at your own pace.


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS | LOUGH DERG

WESTERN WAYS Who says you need to go to the coast to visit the beach? Lough Derg has three Blue Flags, and one of these is at Two-Mile-Gate, a little lakeside beach where you can dip your toe or go for a swim. Here, you can stop off to enjoy a picnic in the lakeside park and just across the road is Ballycuggaran woods, an impressive oak wood with looped walks and panoramic views of Lough Derg from its highest point.

artists offer workshops as well, so you might even pick up a skill!

Scarriff and Tuamgraney are beautiful historical villages If you head for Mountshannon, there’s another Blue Flag beach here, but this time, travel out across the lake to Holy Island with local guide Gerard Madden of Holy Island Tours. You can spend a half day here walking amongst its six ruined churches and round tower while keeping a lookout for the local white-tailed sea eagles, which were reintroduced to the area in 2012. This is a breath-taking experience, but bring wellies - it’s mucky in places!

A TASTE OF LOUGH DERG The lakeside towns of Lough Derg are renowned for their impressive array of award-winning restaurants, cafes, pubs and speciality food shops, all offering a famously warm, Irish welcome. For a chance to meet some of the area’s food gurus, look no further than the many farmer and country markets that take place throughout the year in Killaloe, Scarriff, Mountshannon, Nenagh, Portumna and Terryglass. Catch one of the many food events that take place around the lake during the summer months as part of the ‘A Taste of Lough Derg’ food series.

Across from the harbour, you can go for a walk through the quirky and beautiful Aistear park in Mountshannon. Run through the maze and along the paths overlooking the lake, or travel along the labyrinth. The wildness and beauty of this area have attracted many skilled artists and provides a diverse range of crafts, paintings, bog oak sculptures and mosaics for gifts and take-home memories. Some of these

For an alternative view, try discovering the great outdoors and beautiful nature of Lough Derg on horseback with a guided tour with An Sibin Riding Centre in Whitegate. Enjoy a combination of visiting the ancient Irish castles, and monastic ruins with a lovely guided trail ride through Irish bogs, fields and local farmland.

For some inspiration and to help you plan your trip to Lough Derg in Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands visit the discover Lough Derg website where you’ll find details of accommodation and activity providers and some special offers too.

Try your hand at ceramics at Marina’s Ceramics workshop located in Neddy’s Cottage in Dromineer.

GALWAY

CLARE

TIPPERARY

www.discoverloughderg.ie 31


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS | CLARE

Dive into

COUNTY CLARE CLARE IS A COUNTY RENOWNED FOR ITS TRADITIONAL MUSIC, MAJESTIC COASTLINE, UNIQUE ENVIRONMENT AND VARIETY OF LANDSCAPES. YOU WILL FIND INTERESTING GEMS IN EVERY CORNER OF CLARE FROM SCENERY TO HISTORY AND FROM CULTURE TO FINE DINING. MAJESTIC COASTLINE From ocean lovers to putting champions, Clare offers an array of options. Ever since surfing first exploded onto the Irish scene well over a decade ago, Lahinch has been the spiritual (and commercial) hub of surfing in Ireland.

shores of Lough Derg, you won’t be short of a place to dip your toes in the pristine waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Whether it is the White Strand beaches at Doonbeg or Miltown Malbay, the brown sugar sands at Spanish Point or the terracotta fringe of Fanore, you’ll be spoiled for choice.

With 9 Blue Flag and 2 Green Coast beaches dotted all along the along its wild and rugged coastline, two of which are nestled inland on the

When it comes to clubs and rolling greens, Greg Norman’s famous links golf course in Doonbeg offers an 18-hole championship circuit. There 33


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS | CLARE

are lots more opportunities in Clare besides for the novice and more experienced golfer. Indeed, it is noteworthy that Lahinch Golf Club will play host to the Dubai Duty Free Irish Open Championship in July 2019. ENNIS - THE HEART OF CLARE Ennis, the county town of Clare, is full of character and natural charm. Wander along the narrow laneways of the county town, where you will be 34

delighted to be lost as you explore the renowned sculpture trail - a unique series of sculptures of many forms depicting cultural, historical and sporting events as well as more abstract pieces. Delve into the many boutique shops and individual millinery store in Ennis, where you are sure to find something for those special occasions. If there is still time left in the evening, why not check out Glór theatre – the centre for performing arts in Ennis.


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS | CLARE

Sit by a tranquil lake surrounded by woodland where silence is broken only by squirrels, birds, swans or a hungry tern.

THE BURREN - A LUNAR LANDSCAPE In North Clare, marvel at the ancient limestone landscape of the Burren and the iconic Cliffs of Moher. Talk a breathtaking walk along the 12km Cliffs of Moher Coast Walk from Doolin all the way to Liscannor. Don’t forget to bring your head for heights! Boats from Doolin carry visitors to the Aran Islands offshore. In the pubs of Miltown Malbay,

traditional music sessions wind up at precisely 11.30pm (or not). Steven Spielberg is among the visitors to have chilled out in Ballyvaughan, and the angling is amazing off Black Head. ON THE WESTERN EDGE Dating back to the 1670s, Loop Head Lighthouse stands proud on the western edge of Clare and the Loop Head Peninsula. This iconic landmark is steeped in history and is one of the 35


HIDDEN HEARTLANDS | CLARE

Great Lighthouses of Ireland. Soak in the rich maritime heritage as you take in the exhibition in the Light Keeper’s Cottage, enjoy a guided tour of the tower and relish the wonders of Loop Head Heritage Trail with its stunning landmarks such as the Bridges of Ross. SCATTERY ISLAND Scattery Island, located at the mouth of the Shannon Estuary, is a tranquil haven which hosts the remains of an ancient monastic site. It boasts a round tower, cathedral and several medieval churches, not to mention the deserted village where islanders once lived. Take a short ferry across and marvel at the Teampall na Marabh (The Church of the Dead), Artillery Battery and the Lighthouse which was manned until 2002, and is now fully automated. NATURE, ADVENTURE & CRAIC In East Clare, catch a glimpse of the White-Tailed Sea Eagle at the viewing point in Mountshannon; drop into one of the many rousing festivals and music sessions in Scarriff, Feakle, or Tulla; try 36

Photo: Lahinch Golf Club

out a stand-up paddle board, kayak or boat trip on Lough Derg or simply take a gentle cycle or walk – do it your way on the Lough Derg Blueway. When you get peckish, sample the wide array of local artisan food at the many eateries dotted around East Clare. No matter where you visit, outstanding views, unique landscapes, incredible culture and heritage abound in Ireland’s ‘Banner County’ – Clare. Check out www.visitclare.ie for more.


THE LOUGH DERG BLUEWAY

DO IT YOUR WAY!

The Lough Derg Blueway serves up an amazing mix of activity and adventure trails in part of Ireland’s Hidden Heartlands. IMAGINE: 13,000 hectares of clear water surrounded by beautiful and dramatic countryside in three Irish counties (Clare, Tipperary and Galway), and traversed by a series of on-water and water-side trails that provide the opportunity for exhilarating activities and adventures. You can experience these trails solo, or with family or friends, by canoe, paddleboard, bicycle, or on foot. Get active and do it your way, On the Lough Derg Blueway


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! d r a o b a e m o Welc

Sail with us to the Aran Islands or cruise under the Cliffs of Moher

Daily sailings to the Aran Islands from Doolin “March to October.” Sail on Ireland’s newest ship, the Star of Doolin in comfort and style! Visit the spectacular Dun Aengus fort on Inis Oirr, get away from it all on Inis Meain or take a quick trip to the smallest one, the beautiful island of Inis Mor. Take our 1 hour voyage of discovery under the Cliff of Moher, where you can admire their scale and majestic beauty in the comfort of our new ship, the Star of Doolin, away from the crowds at the Visitors Centre.

Tel +353 65 707 5949 Email info@doolin2aranferries.com

www.doolin2aranferries.com

Several departure options 7 days per week, March to October. Pre booking online recommended. N W

Aran Islands

Atlantic Ocean

E

Blackhead Lighthouse

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Inis Oírr | Inis Mór | Inis Meáin

Inis Mór to Doolin – 11.30 | 16.00 Doolin to Inis Oírr – 10.00 | 11.00 | 13.00

Dun Aengus fort

Kilronan

Inis Mór

Cliffs of Moher One hour sightseeing cruises Departure Times 10.00 | 12.00 | 13.00 15.00 | 16.00 | 17.15 More sailing times in high season

Combination Trip

ards

Aran Islands Facilities on all 3 islands:

Doolin Pier

boats depart

Restaurants, Bars | Shopping

Hotels, B&Bs, Hostels | Bike Hire

Guided Tours: Pony & Trap/Minibus

Jack B

Doolin Inis Mór Combo – 10.00

Doolin

For BEST PRICES book online:

www.doolin2aranferries.com

R477

Doolin

Lisdoonvarna R478

R48O

Burren Smokehouse

Doolin Pier boats depart

Burren Centre Kilfenora

McDermotts

Cliffs of Moher

Ferry Ticket Office

at Tourist Information O’Connors

Fitz’s

Harry Potter Sea Cave

R481

R478

Liscannor

Ennistymon

N67

Sh

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Lahinch GPS for Ticket Office: 53.016306, -9.376785

Burren National Park

R476

Star of Doolin

McGanns

in Hotel Doolin

Doolin Inis Meáin Combo – 10.00

Tel: 065 707 5949 or 087 245 3239

Doolin Cave

Doonagore Castle

Doolin Inis Oírr Combo – 10.00 | 11.00 | 13.00

Poulnabrone Dolmen

N67

Inis Oírr

ay

Galw

Aillwee Cave

Dun Conchur fort

Aran Islands + Cliffs of Moher Departure Times

Tow

Inis Meáin

Inis Meáin to Doolin – 11.45 | 16.15 * 1-way or overnight sailing only

Ballyvaughan

R477

Inis Oírr to Doolin – 13.45 | 16.45 Doolin to Inis Meáin – 10.00 | 11.00* | 13.00*

Day trip times

Fanore Beach

Happy Hooker

Departure Times Doolin to Inis Mór – 10.00 | 11.00* | 13.00*

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For best rates, book online at www.doolin2aranferries.com


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The Star

OF DOOLIN I

n the early days of June 2018, the Aran Islands got closer to County Clare, as the Star of Doolin sailed into Doolin for the first time. This passenger cruise ship is the fastest and most eco-friendly to operate on the western seaboard, following a €3m investment from Doolin2Aran Ferries. The Star of Doolin sailed into Doolin Pier to cheers from tourists and locals and – naturally, for the North Clare village recognized as the home of traditional Irish music - strains of box, fiddle, banjo and pipes. The ship is the fastest and largest to operate to the islands from Doolin, halving the journey times and doubling the capacity of the company’s existing boats. It has also been designed with the environment in mind, with additional features to lower emissions and state of the art waste water treatment on board. Doolin2Aran Ferries is owned and operated by one of Ireland’s best-known sea families, the Garrihys from Doolin. Their €3m investment in the Star of Doolin is the biggest ever made in a single vessel on the west coast of Ireland. The oneoff designed, 200 seat

cruise ship is also tailored for international tourists, with multilingual voice commentary to ensure visitors get the best experience and knowledge of the world-famous heritage sites – the Cliffs of Moher and the historic Aran Islands. Hundreds gathered on Doolin Pier in splendid June morning sunshine to welcome the ship, led by legendary Clare concertina player Chris Droney (93), who gave the boat its name. Chris is father in law of Eugene Garrihy – one of four Garrihy brothers with PJ, Joe and Donie involved in the business. “It’s a great day for Doolin, for Clare and for the Aran Islands,” said PJ Garrihy. “The Star is such a comfortable ship and she is a great service to North Clare and the Aran Islands.”

“It ticks all the boxes. While it can take more passengers and operate at twice the speed, it has also been designed with the environment as a core consideration. We’re operating here out of the Burren and Cliffs of Moher Geopark and it was a priority for us to get emissions as low as possible and we’ve done that.”

Said PJ’s brother Eugene, “This ship signifies the end of an 18 month journey for us. We took the decision back in late 2016. It was a big move because we’re a small family business and it’s a very big investment for us but now that the Star of Doolin is sailing from Doolin pier, we’re delighted. It will be a huge boost to tourism in the West of Ireland but particularly here in Doolin and the Aran Islands.

The Star of Doolin now operates the 1 hour cruises below the Cliffs of Moher, where the views can be truly appreciated away from the crowds and traffic. The ship also sails to the three Aran Islands, Inis Oirr, Inis Meain and Inis Mor. The islands have never been as accessible from the mainland and sailing has never been as comfortable. A star is truly born and sailing from Doolin. 39


Come West Along The Road

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Scoil Samhraidh Liathroma

The Joe Mooney Annual Summer School 20th - 27th July 2019 Summer School of Traditional Music Song & Dance Flute, Fiddle, Button Accordion, Concertina, Whistle, Harp, Banjo, Uillean Pipes, Mandolin, Bodhran, Bouzouki, Set Dancing, Traditional and Sean Nos Singing, Sean Nos Dancing. Accompaniment - Piano, Accompaniment - Guitar Also, Evening Recitals, Ceilis, Concerts & Impromptu Sessions. 40

Drumshanbo, Co. Leitrim

FOR LIST OF ACCOMMODATION PLEASE CHECK WEBSITE

www.joemooneysummerschool.com Clare: 087 1331241 Edel: 087 4655399 joemooneysummerschool@gmail.com


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Musical MAGIC T

raditional Irish music and dance is known throughout the world, capturing the attention of travellers from near and far.

tin whistle, bodhrán, fiddle and singing. All other classes are suitable for people with experience in the given instrument.

Every July, Drumshanbo, Co. Leitrim plays host to the Joe Mooney Summer School, a weeklong festival of traditional Irish music, song and dance. The 31st annual Joe Mooney Summer School takes place, from July 20th to July 27th 2019. This festival has grown and developed over the years into one of the most prestigious events in the world of traditional music, song, and dance.

Apart from the daily classes, there are a host of other events ranging from concerts and ceilithe to recitals and workshops, which cater for casual visitors who wish to partake in some way. Pub sessions and impromptu street sessions all add to the wonderful atmosphere that makes the Joe Mooney Summer School so attractive to the thousands of people who flock to Drumshanbo for the week.

From humble beginnings, the Joe Mooney Summer School started in 1989, providing tuition in set dancing and eight instruments – fiddle, tin whistle, piano accordion, flute, button accordion, harp, concertina and uilleann pipes. Over the interceding years, the school has grown from strength to strength. In July 2018, sixty-five of Ireland’s finest tutors conducted classes for the week.

There is now a very pronounced international flavor to the summer school and you are likely to meet participants and visitors from all corners of the world. Undoubtedly the main reason they come to Drumshanbo is their great love and interest in traditional music, song and dance, but they are also attracted by the natural beauty of the area as well as the friendliness and hospitality of the local people.

Tuition is now available in fiddle, tin whistle, flute, button accordion, harp, concertina, uilleann pipes, banjo, mandolin, bouzouki, piano accompaniment, guitar accompaniment, bodhrán, traditional singing, sean nós singing and junior sean nós dancing. Beginners may enroll in set dancing, junior sean nós dancing,

So, whether you are a musician, a dancer, a singer or just an ardent fan of our musical heritage, then Drumshanbo and the Joe Mooney Summer School is the place to be for the fourth week of July 2019. www.joemooneysumerschool.com 41


CONNEMARA | KYLEMORE

Hills of Connemara THEY SAY WHEN YOU VISIT CONNEMARA YOU EXPERIENCE THE REAL BEAUTY OF IRELAND. OSCAR WILDE CALLED IT A “SAVAGE BEAUTY” AND IT’S EASY TO SEE WHY.

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onnemara National Park is the West of Ireland’s only national park, encircling a kaleidoscope of Connemara’s most spectacular scenery in a 4,942-acre setting. With very little man-made development, it is a blend of mountains, bogs, heaths, grasslands, rivers, waterfalls and nature trails. Connemara ponies run wild here, and an abundance of wildlife roam the gentle landscape. It’s a quiet, soulful place. They don’t do queues in Connemara. The mountains are deliciously deserted, beaches calm and quiet and there’s always a hidden pub for that well-earned pint. There are many enchanting sights in the area and a real ‘must do’ is Kylemore Abbey and Victorian Walled Garden. Kylemore has a dramatic setting on Kylemore Lake, which undoubtedly has made it the mostphotographed of any Connemara’ attraction. For visitors, the setting presents many things to do and see. Walk around this idyllic estate, wander off on lakeside and mountain trails, explore the walled Victorian gardens or spend time in the Gothic chapel, considered to be a mini-cathedral. The centerpiece of the estate — the muchphotographed abbey, is a castellated mansion, dating back to 1867. It was once a girl’s school run by the Benedictine nuns but before that, it was the setting for a beautiful love story; Ireland’s very own Taj Mahal, a symbol of love and loss. In 1852 successful financier, Mitchell Henry and his new bride Margaret Vaughan came to Connemara on honeymoon. Margaret loved the area so much she thought it would be wonderful to live there. So, Mitchell Henry gave her one of Ireland’s most beautiful homes overlooking the glassy Kylemore lake. Luxury is too small a word to describe the place. In his book Irish Country Houses, Terence Reeves-Smyth talks of the castle as being “on a Citizen Kane scale, boasting many splendid reception rooms including a ballroom with a sprung floor, a magnificent staircase, a library, a study and 33 bedrooms.” For almost 10 years, Mitchell, Margaret and their nine children lived 43


Week-long riding holiday - A 'point to point' trail

For more information about dates and rates please contact us: Tel. No. 011 353 91 843968 info@dartfield.com www.connemara-trails.com

Explore our historical 1,000 acre estate. Victorian splendour in the wild Connemara countryside. Home to the Benedictine Community since 1920.

• 6 Acre Victorian Walled Garden • Restored Rooms in the Abbey • Gothic Church • History Talks and Guided Tours • Woodland & Lakeshore Walks

+353 (0) 95 52001

bookings@kylemoreabbey.com www.kylemoreabbey.com

/KylemoreAbbeyandGarden @Kylemore

@kylemoreabbey


CONNEMARA | KYLEMORE

They don’t do queues in Connemara. Mountains are deliciously deserted, beaches calm and quiet and there’s always a hidden pub for that well-earned pint.

at Kylemore in what sounds like a state of bliss, but then, in 1875 on a visit to Egypt, Margaret contracted a fever and died. A heartbroken Mitchell couldn’t bear to spend much time thereafter in Kylemore however, he built his wife one of the most elegant final resting places - a glorious neo-Gothic church built in the style of a fourteenth-century English cathedral. Kylemore Marketing Assistant Eithne O’Halloran says that the church is more than just a resting place. It’s a tribute. “The neo-Gothic church is a uniquely poignant building nestled closely into the dramatic mountain landscape, it is a lasting testament to the love of Mitchell Henry for his wife, Margaret.” Eithne describes the features of the church that reflect the admiration Mitchell had for his beloved stating “the proportions of the building are extremely elegant with uniquely feminine features” such as the female characters featured on the beautiful stained-glass windows. The adjacent Kylemore Garden, singled out as a winner of a Europa Nosta Award in 2001, is a six-acre Victorian walled garden in a serene lakeside setting. Originally laid out in 1867,

the garden took three years to complete, transforming a wilderness of rock and bog into a feast of flowers and plants set in geometrically designed borders and beds, along with hundreds of thousands of trees. Kylemore is beautiful, romantic, unique and a timeless symbol of love for past and present generations. 45


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Bathing Ceremonies Exfoliation Treatments Facials Body Wraps & Floats Massage

SpEnd TiME in our rElaxaTion rooM & ThErMal SuiTE Enjoy a lighT lunCh or aFTErnoon TEa

Relax in Style!

our Spa guESTS alSo havE Full uSE oF our aqua CEnTrE and ThE FolloWing FaCiliTiES:

    

20m pool jacuzzi Steam room & Sauna hydro Therapy pool outdoor hot Tub Full gyMnaSiuM WiTh aTTraCTivE MEMBErShip paCkagES

Please contact 065 707 0937 for more details! 46

Relax, Revive, Restore

at the fallS hotel, enniStYMon

riverspa@fallshotel.ie


SPA HOTEL

The Ultimate CHILL

IRELAND IS FULL OF BEAUTIFUL RESORTS WHICH WILL HELP YOU RECHARGE YOUR BATTERIES. FOR THE ULTIMATE CHILL HOWEVER, CONSIDER A HOTEL THAT ALSO OFFERS GREAT SPA FACILITIES.

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pa hotels are a popular choice for people who like to incorporate relaxation with adventure and discovery. After a long day walking or long hours cooped up in the car there is nothing nicer than coming back to a great massage or the simple pleasure of submerging in a soothing pool. As well as relaxation there are many health benefits associated with spa treatments. Use of spa facilities

and massage therapies result in both mental and physical wellbeing. In fact, studies have shown that the frequency of visiting a spa directly correlates with better quality sleep and fewer illnesses. Throughout the process of massage therapy, lymph flow stimulation enhances the immune system. Proper lymph flow, the body’s defense, draws out metabolic waste, excess water, toxins, and bacteria from the muscles. In turn, swelling 47


SPA HOTEL

and soreness decreases while ability to fight off disease increases. Massage also improves circulation and posture.

Seaweed is nature’s most powerful anti-oxidant. Its vitamins and minerals are deeply detoxifying, hydrating and nourishing.

More specifically, the heat from a hot tub, sauna or steam shower soothes aches and pains from arthritis, fibromyalgia and other joint issues. Hydrotherapy, heat therapy and massages both improve blood circulation and manage blood pressure. Some hotels even have Pilates and yoga, which improve flexibility and breathing. Facials and mud baths detoxify the skin from built up waste and bacteria. This is important because the skin is not only the largest organ in the body, but also the first line of defense against environmental toxins. Facials also release stress tension from the head and neck, which can prevent headaches. Mud baths exfoliate and nourish the skin through the earth’s natural elements, like soil, clay and water, which are full of vitamins and minerals. As an additional stress reliever, most spas use products that increase the physical and mental benefits of your treatment adding an aromatherapy element to it with lotions and scrubs in soothing scents like lavender, eucalyptus, and aloe. SUSHI TO SKINCARE Most of us are familiar with seaweed in our sushi, and the accompanying miso soup, but beyond the delicious taste, have you ever wondered about the health benefits of seaweed? Incredibly rich in antioxidants, vitamins and minerals, seaweed packs a serious nutritional punch. Seaweed is nature’s most powerful anti-oxidant from the vegetal world. Its abundance of minerals and vitamins are deeply detoxifying, hydrating and nourishing, helping to fight against harmful environmental aggressors and strengthen the immune system. Did you know that sea water and blood plasma have an almost identical chemical composition? Seaweed naturally absorbs its nourishment from the sea. As a result, it contains countless minerals, vitamins and beneficial ingredients in high concentrations making it the perfect 48

solution for replenishing the body’s minerals, protecting skin against free radicals, and aids in treating several skin conditions including psoriasis, eczema, and acne. Niche Irish brand Voya is a range of genuinely organic, seaweed-based products and spa treatments based on the highest-quality botanical ingredients and aromatherapy oils. Voya products combine the purest ingredients with ancient traditions and sustainable processes to create a range of products and treatments that achieve exceptional results. Whether you get to languish in a seaweed bath or smother yourself in kelp-based products, you may never look at seaweed the same way again!


TEXT | PLACE

River Spa

AT FALLS HOTEL W

alk in, Float Out. Immerse yourself in the Wild Atlantic Way. Spoil yourself in the unique award winning Riverspa at the Falls Hotel & Spa in Ennistymon and enjoy the many luxurious Elemis and Voya treatments that are on offer. Located at the heart of the Burren and the Wild Atlantic Way, the Riverspa is in the ultimate setting, so conducive to relaxing. There are over 50 incredible treatments to choose from including facials, massages, body wraps, dry floats, body scrubs, mud treatments, beauty treatments and a range of Voya seaweed bathing ceremonies. As one of the finest hotels in Clare, the Falls Hotel & Spa is nestled in a wooded vale beside the tumbling waters of the River Inagh in Ennistymon. The distinctive building known today as the Falls Hotel & Spa conceals within its walls an eighteenth-century mansion, a late medieval castle, and a formidable history of four and a half centuries embracing clans and warfare, landlords and tenants, poets, dreamers and entrepreneurs. The Falls Hotel & Spa is located in the town of Ennistymon, yet it is surrounded by fifty acres of grounds and has wonderful riverside and woodland walks around the property. The hotel is a popular location for families, couples, groups and individuals. It’s stunning location at the gateway to the Cliffs of Moher & Burren Geopark, at the heart of the wonderful Wild Atlantic Way is a wonderful base for exploring beautiful County Clare. The spa’s twelve treatment rooms have breathtaking views over the river Inagh and the

fifty acres of woodlands surrounding the hotel. There are a number of treatment rooms that cater for couples only including the King’s Bath, the Mud Rasul and a Double Massage room. Spa guests have full access to their Aqua Centre facilities such as the 20m swimming pool and Jacuzzi, the hydrotherapy pool, steam room and sauna and the wonderful outdoor hot tub. So give yourself plenty of time to indulge and relax! Packages can be selected from the brochure or if you have something specific in mind, the Spa team can tailor a Spa Day to suit you. Spa days can include lunch in the Spa Cafe or Afternoon Tea at your leisure. Time in the River Spa takes you away from the mania of everyday life and lets you relax, revive and restore your body and mind. This Clare hotel is perfectly located for exploring all the sites and activities that County Clare has to offer with many attractions are only a short drive from the hotel. Surfing, kite surfing and golfing are located in Lahinch, just 2km away while Doolin is approximately 15 minute-drive, where you can take a cruise to the Cliffs of Moher and to the Aran Islands for a day trip. Also on your doorstep are Aillwee Caves, the Burren Region and Doolin Cave, with fishing available in the grounds of the hotel plus sea angling close by. The hotel is privately owned and managed by the McCarthy Family and you will always receive a warm and friendly welcome when staying in the Falls Hotel & Spa. 49


YEATS COUNTY | SLIGO

COLEMAN MUSIC VISITOR CENTRE

Ceoláras Coleman, Gurteen, Co. Sligo

The Coleman Music Centre, situated in Gurteen, Co. Sligo, is a community based, state of the art traditional music and cultural centre. The main aims of the Centre are to preserve, promote and foster Irish traditional music and culture. It is also the Comhaltas Regional Resource Centre for the five counties, Sligo, Mayo, Roscommon, Leitrim and Fermanagh.

Visitor Centre The visitors’ experience is informal, welcoming and friendly providing a tailor-made first-hand experience of Sligo style traditional Irish music. There is a permanent exhibition and information area comprising of touch screens and a twelve minute audio visual presentation on the history of traditional music. This gives the visitor a unique insight into traditional music. Coleman School of Music Music tuition is provided in fiddle, flute, banjo, accordion, bodhrán, whistle, guitar, harp, cello, uilleann pipes, sean nós dancing and singing. The teachers, all from the locality, have a keen insight and knowledge of the Sligo repertoire and technique of playing. Special one to one and group tuition is available all year round by advance booking. The Coleman Theatre Many top class traditional music concerts and shows are presented throughout the year in the 130 seat theatre. A programme of music, song and dance can be provided to suit the needs of individual groups and can include a music lesson or a lecture on any aspect of the history of traditional music.

The Music/Gift Shop The shop stocks a vast selection of traditional music CDs, including many of an archival type, DVDs, music books, musical instruments and accessories, gift ideas and lots more….. Online shop at www.colemanirishmusic.com delivered worldwide The Coleman Cottage A visit to this farmhouse cottage gives a unique insight into how people lived during the early twentieth century in Ireland. The building has three rooms, is constructed of red sandstone and is roofed in traditional thatch. The cottage contains everyday cooking utensils, furniture, crockery and other artefacts, which date back to the 1920s.

Tel. 071 9182599 www.colemanirishmusic.com Open all year round - Monday to Saturday 10am-5.30pm

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Authent Traditio ic n Music an al d Cultural Experien ce!


YEATS COUNTY | SLIGO

Sligo

SETS YOUR SPIRIT FREE SLIGO IS THE URBAN CAPITAL OF THE NORTH WEST REGION. NESTLING AMIDST AN EXTRAORDINARY AND SCENIC LANDSCAPE, RICH IN HERITAGE AND MYTHOLOGY, IT ALSO SITS ON SOME OF THE MOST APPEALING AND LEAST DISCOVERED STRETCHES OF COAST ALONG THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY. 51


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he county offers a unique destination with the dramatic backdrop of Benbulben, glimmering beaches, rolling green hills and magical woodlands, with unsurpassed leisure activities and state-of-the-art business facilities. From walking, water sports and golf to seaweed baths and horse riding or even some leisurely fishing, the county has much to offer whatever your interests may be. From the myths and legends of ancient Ireland to the poetry of WB Yeats and the music of Coleman, Westlife and Dervish, Sligo’s cultural and literary heritage is world famous and actively celebrated.

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Culture in Sligo is a lively, attractive combination of contemporary and traditional theaters and centers. Writers and artists have been inspired by Sligo; the poet William Butler Yeats is buried in Drumcliffe and Sligo is often referred to as Yeats county. There are museums that offer time for reflection on bygone times alongside impressive stately homes, each with a story to tell. The magnificent Lissadell House, so beloved of William Butler Yeats and built by the famous Gore Booth family should not be missed. Set amid the stunning scenery of mountain, woods and sea, Lissadell House & Gardens are famous


YEATS COUNTY | SLIGO

From the myths and legends of ancient Ireland to the poetry of WB Yeats and the music of Coleman, Westlife and Dervish, Sligo’s cultural and literary heritage is world famous.

“There are no strangers, only friends you have not met yet” – William Butler Yeats as the childhood home of Constance Markievicz and her siblings Eva and Josslyn Gore Booth. Constance was one of the leaders of the 1916 Rising, and was the first woman to be elected to the House of Commons at Westminister, London. Eva was a poet of distinction and a suffragist while Josslyn created at Lissadell one of the premier horticultural estates in Ireland. FINE ARTS The Model is Ireland’s leading regional arts centre, with a strong reputation for experimentation, collaboration and engagement. A year-round programme includes contemporary

exhibitions, film, music, literature, festivals and performance. It is also home to one of Ireland’s most important municipal collections of twentieth century Irish art featuring works by John and Jack B Yeats, Estella Solomons, Paul Henry and Louis Le LeBrocquy among others. The Model receives new and exciting acquisitions to The Niland Collection regularly. In 2016 The Model acquired the complete series of Jack B Yeats, A Broadside, (1915 – 1918), and recently received a very special donation of a considerable body of artworks from the Yeats Family sale at Sotheby’s.

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ARCHAEOLOGICAL & MYTHOLOGY SITES Ballymote Castle Richard de Burgo, the Red Earl of Ulster, built the remains of this Anglo-Norman castle in AD1300 and it was the strongest fortress in Connacht. The Book of Ballymote was probably compiled here c.1400AD. Creevykeel Court Tomb This is one of the best examples of a court tomb in Ireland. It consists of a long, trapeze shaped cairn enclosing an oval court and a burial chamber of two compartments, dating from the 4th millennium BC. Drumcliff Church, Round Tower & High Cross This site is a monastic settlement and also the burial place of the famous Irish poet WB Yeats. It’s importance dates from 574AD when St Colmcille founded a monastery here. The principle visible remains of the monument are the remains of Sligo’s only round tower, a high cross and a fragment of a plain high cross. The high cross dating from the 10th century has scenes from both the old and new Testaments. Sligo Abbey Known locally as The Abbey, this Dominican Friary was founded in 1252/3 by Maurice Fitzgerald. The site contains a great wealth of carvings including Gothic and Renaissance tomb sculpture, a well preserved cloister and the only sculptured 15th century high altar to survive in any Irish monastic church. This enigmatic friary will inspire and enlighten its visitors. Access to the site is by stone stairway.

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Maeve’s Cairn Overlooking Carrowmore megalithic cemetery on the summit of Knocknarea Mountain is the huge flat-topped cairn called ‘Miosgan Meadhbha’ (Maeve’s Cairn) at 55m in diameter and 10m high. The name of the monument along with folklore suggests it was built for the mythical Maeve, the Iron Age Queen of Connacht. Walkers can access via a boardwalk from base to summit. Sea & Surf Explore Sligo’s amazing mix of beaches at Rosses Point, Dunmoran Strand, Streedagh Strand, Mullaghmore, Enniscrone, Strandhill and Culleenamore. Cast your rod, experience an abundance of waterbased activities or check out world class surfing, sailing, scuba diving, deep sea angling, fishing, island tours and more. Coney Island Coney Island, accessible by land at low tide, is beautifully isolated and a wildlife paradise. The mud flats provide water feeding grounds for the Brent goose, as well as wild duck and waders. It is believed locally that the island’s more famous namesake in New York was named after the Irish Island by a Sligo sea captain. Strandhill The seaside village of Strandhill is one of Ireland’s most popular beach breaks while west Sligo is renowned for its quality surf and takes in Aughris, Easkey and Enniscrone.


YEATS COUNTY | SLIGO

Enniscrone Enniscrone is a glorious stop on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, snuggled into the Sligo coastline. The breath-taking landscape and coastal scenery of Enniscrone will remain in your heart long after you have returned to the everyday world. Steeped in culture, Enniscrone offers visitors an authentic Irish holiday experience. It is known country wide for its magnificent sunsets, something you might like to experience on horseback with the breathtaking and ever-changing landscape of Sligo making for a memorable occasion. Accommodation Sligo offers a wide diversity of excellent approved accommodation providers ranging from contemporary, luxury 4* Hotels to old world castles. Choose a rural or urban experience, enjoy a break in an Irish home and sample a true taste of Ireland with a modern Irish family. The choice is endless but the quality assured.

Food Glorious Food What makes Sligo such a fantastic foodie destination is the culture that goes hand in hand with the food experience. Producers take pride in providing fresh, local, healthy, organic food that nourishes the body while the scenery nurtures the soul. As you drive through Sligo, you’ll witness the outstanding landscape which yields the fresh ingredients that create its exceptional cuisine. The lush green fields, the majestic mountains, the charming farms, the salmon rivers and the mighty Atlantic Ocean - Sligo’s premiere location on the Wild Atlantic Way means you can enjoy freshlycaught fish in any local restaurant. Alternatively, indulge your taste buds on Knocknarea honey, wild Mullaghmore lobster, Lissadell oysters and fresh eggs from the foot of Benbulben Mountain.

If you prefer the great outdoors, sleep under the stars at Sligo’s Caravan & Camping sites all located in areas of stunning beauty and backpackers have a choice of excellent holiday hostels

Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery is the largest cemetery of megalithic tombs in Ireland and one of the oldest and most important in Europe. Over 60 tombs are recorded all of which predate the pyramids of Egypt. 55


YEATS COUNTY | SLIGO

THE GREAT OUTDOORS The Sligo Races are a dramatic sight with Benbulben as a backdrop and afterwards there is plenty of craic to be had with south Sligo being renowned for its traditional music. The county hosts a wealth of festivals and events throughout the year. Say ‘fore’ in Sligo; a county that boasts magnificent links courses along the Atlantic seaboard and provides some of the most challenging and exhilarating golf in the world. Challenge yourself on the 27-hole links courses at Rosses Point or play 18 at Enniscrone or Strandhill. Golfers will delight at playing parklands over fairways adorned with ancient mature trees, natural water features and unspoiled views such as those at Castle Dargan ( 18 holes), or a gentler 9-hole course at Tubbercurry and Ballymote. MYTHS AND LEGENDS Sligo’s archaeological and mythological heritage is incredibly rich. It contains one of the richest concentrations of prehistoric and later monuments in Western Europe – in fact, the ancient county is filled with over 5,000 archaeological sites. Situated above the western shore of Lough Arrow is the impressive passage tomb cemetery of Carrowkeel, located in the beautiful limestone upland of the Bricklieve Mountains. There are 14 cairns here with a further 6 cairns extending to the west to Keshcorran Mountain, which is capped with a large cairn, dating back to between 3,800-3,300 BC during the Neolithic period. Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery is the largest cemetery of megalithic tombs in Ireland and is also among the country’s oldest and most important in Europe. Over 60 tombs are recorded all of which predate the pyramids of Egypt. Sligo will enchant you. It is a county that celebrates its independent spirit. A place steeped in history and mythology, with a creative tradition that lives in the music, art, poetry and expression of its people. From lakes and rivers to beaches and dramatic limestone mountains, Sligo is a place where ancient sites, spectacular landscapes and rolling waves inspire stories, trails and adventures that will open your mind and invigorate your body. www.sligotourism.ie 56

TOP 10 SLIGO ATTRACTIONS WB Yeats Grave & Drumcliffe Church Drumcliffe, final resting place of WB Yeats and site of a 6th century Columbian monastery. This beautiful site which nestles under Benbulben Mountain has an exciting range of activities for the visitor.

Drumcliffe Round Tower & High Cross Monastic settlement dates from 574AD. The principle visible remains are of Sligo’s only round tower, a high cross and a fragment of a plain high cross. The high cross is an excellent example of a figure sculpted cross and dates from the 10th century.

Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery This is the largest cemetery of megalithic tombs in Ireland and is also among the country’s oldest, with monuments ranging from five and a half thousand to six and a half thousand years old.

Eagles Flying / Irish Raptor Research Centre Located at Portinch, in Ballymote, Ireland’s biggest sanctuary for birds of prey and owls offers you impressions of majestic raptors soaring over beautiful locations.

Lissadell House In glorious isolation at Ballinfull take a tour of this magnificent 1830’s house, visit the gardens and view Countess Markievicz Exhibition.

Coleman Irish Music Centre The Michael Coleman Heritage Centre draws together the many strands of the South Sligo musical traditional.

Atlantic Sheep Dogs At Atlantic Sheep dogs in Streedagh, you’ll get to meet and spend time with some of the smartest dogs in the world. Get to see the incredible teamwork between man and dog. Sligo Abbey In the heart of Sligo visit the 13th Century Dominican Friary, containing a great wealth of carvings Including Gothic and Renaissance tomb sculpture, awell preserved cloister and the only sculptured 15th century high altar to survive in any Irish monastic church.

Dolly’s Cottage Dolly’s Cottage at Strandhill is a 200-year-old traditional thatched cottage, the only one of its kind in the area, which is open to the public. It is a stone-built cottage with two rooms and a loft with original walls, roof, roof beams, fireplace and pouch bed. Gillighan’s World At Lavagh near Tubbercurry visit Knocknashee, Legendary Hill of the Fairies, ad one of the 7 sacred hills in Ireland. Fun for school, coach tours, birthday parties, family groups and overseas visitors.


YEATS COUNTY | SLIGO

County Sligo - Visitor Sites Managed by the Office of Public Works

Carrowmore

Carrowmore is more than just an isolated Stone Age site. It stands in the centre of what has been described as a ritual or sacred landscape and was the focal point for Neolithic religious and ceremonial activity for many centuries. Stand here in the centre of the Cúil Irra peninsula and get a sense of how our ancestors viewed the much wider landscape with many of the surrounding hills topped by Passage Tomb monuments visible on the skyline. The most obvious is Miosgán Maeve or Maeve’s Cairn, on Knocknarea to the West, followed by Knocknashee behind the Ox Mountains, Croaghaun, Keshcorran, Carrowkeel to the South, the four peaks of the Ballygawley Mountains, and Cairns Hill to the East. Carrowmore today consists of about 30 surviving tombs laid out in an oval pattern around the largest tomb, Listoghil. This central monument appears as a smaller version of Maeve’s Cairn and inside a rectangular chamber is roofed by a single massive flat stone. If you are very lucky you may be able to see enigmatic carvings on the front of this capstone that are only visible in rare light conditions. The surrounding monuments are of different forms – some are small dolmens consisting of five uprights with a single capstone, others are circles of boulders and some consist of a dolmen or small chamber within one or more boulder circles. A number of the monuments have been excavated and most have produced quantities of cremated human bone, often deposited in several episodes including the remains of at least 50 individuals in Tomb 4. Accompanying artifacts include bone or antler mushroom headed pins, small stone balls and flint implements. Many of the monuments were re used for burials in Iron Age times up to three thousand years after their construction, demonstrating the enduring attraction of Carrowmore as a special “sacred” place, an attraction that many would claim continues to this day.

Tel: +353 (0)71 916 1534 E: carrowmoretomb@opw.ie

Sligo Abbey

Known as the “Abbey” the Dominican Friary as the only surviving medieval structure in Sligo today provides a haven of peace and tranquillity in the centre of Sligo. It has however a sometimes traumatic history. Originally founded in the mid 13th century by Maurice Fitzgerald it survived the first 160 years unscathed but was accidentally destroyed by a fire started by a candle in 1414. It was rebuilt immediately but in 1641 it was sacked and all the friars killed by Parliamentary forces under sir Frederick Hamilton. Other friars came in their place but their successors were expelled in 1698. Again others took their place until the community finally left it in 1760. The visitor today can use their detective skills to try to unravel the various stages in construction and alteration visible in the surviving monument. Original 13th century features include the eight lancet windows, two of which are blocked up, in the south wall. The magnificent east window may have been built after the fire in the 15th century as was the rood screen that would have separated the laity from the choir. Later again the tower was added as was the cloister arcade. In the early 16th century the elaborate O’Crean altar tomb was inserted in the north wall of the nave and see if you can identify some of the nine figures carved on it such as the Crucifixion, St. Dominic in robes, St. Catherine with a wheel and St. Peter with keys. The beautifully intricate O’Conor monument showing details of the dress styles was built into the south wall in the 17th century. Look out for other unique features of the friary such as the sculpted high altar and the much loved “love knot” on the cloister arcade. Find out it’s story from the Guides on site along with the Abbey’s connection to Dracula!

Tel: +353 (0)71 9146406 Email:sligoabbey@opw.ie

57 Full details of visitor sites managed by the OPW, including our great value heritage card, can be viewed on www.heritageireland.ie


FLYING HIGH | SLIGO

Flying High SITUATED AMID THE BEAUTIFUL LANDSCAPE OF NORTH-WEST IRELAND IS EAGLES FLYING, THE LARGEST CENTER FOR BIRDS OF PREY AND OWLS IN THE COUNTRY.

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estled in the green hills of south Sligo, Irelands´ largest sanctuary for Raptors and Owls, the Irish Raptor Research Centre / Eagles Flying is situated on more than 27 ha of mature parklands near Ballymote. Currently it is home of more than 100 Eagles, Hawks, Owls, Falcons and Vultures. Altogether there are more than 450 birds and animals out of nearly 100 different species in the centre.

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Established in 1999 as an institution for research on birds of prey, parts of the area where opened to the public in 2003. Now it is one of the major tourist attractions in the northern part of Ireland. Ten-thousands of visitors flock to see the spectacular Bird Shows with Eagles, Hawks, Falcons, Vultures and Owls. Amongst many other awards, Eagles Flying was awarded the Certificate of Excellence by Tripadvisor in 2015


FLYING HIGH | SLIGO

As soon as the shows start eagles, falcon, vultures, owls and hawks swoop close over the heads or land in the hands of visitors. What a show!

and 2016, both years getting 5 out of 5 points. Twice daily scientists train these birds for visitors and give information about the biology of these magnificent creatures. During these entertaining interactive Bird Shows visitors can experience different types of raptors flying right over their head or landing next to them. Some have a wingspan of up to 3 metres. It is also possible to touch some of them and some members of the audience may even have one flying to their own hand. At Eagles Flying they developed a very special, friendly way of working with raptors and other animals and there is no risk whatsoever for any member of the audience. These shows are unique - you have never been that close to raptors!

every day and lasting for approximately one hour, the birds are presented in their natural environment. Before and after the shows the visitors can walk the park lands and enjoy the birds displayed in aviaries or on perches close to the walking path. Staff will give information on the birds and answer questions.

Even rain can not spoil this experience, as the shows can be presented indoors.

For the ones who prefer it more cuddly;Â there is also a large supervised Petting-Zoo. Here, visitors can get hands-on with guinea-pigs, pigs, rabbits, lambs, goats, donkeys, ferrets, and many more. Rosie the 350 kg pig gives kids a proper piggy-back ride, Grizzly, the raccoon, is a gifted pickpocket, Tui and Allan, the tame foxes make perfect (live) fur collars for fashion conscious ladies and Monty, the 4 meter Python, even makes a perfect scarf for at least 6 people at a time.

During the shows, starting at 11 am and 3 pm

 www.eaglesflying.com. 59


SLIGO | SHELLY VALLEY

The Shelly VALLEY

A MOON, WORN AS IF IT HAD BEEN A SHELL WASHED BY TIME’S WATERS AS THEY ROSE AND FELL ~ ADAM’S CURSE, WB YEATS

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ligo is the anglicization of the Irish name Sligeach, meaning ‘abounding in shells’ or shelly place. The name refers to the abundance of shellfish found in the river and its estuary and from the extensive shell middens in the vicinity.

Napora from the University of Georgia in the US and Dr James Bonsall, a lecturer in Applied Archaeology at IT Sligo examined prehistoric midden sites in Shelly Valley in a project funded by National Geographic.

A team of international archaeologists carried out a cutting edge ‘geoarchaeological’ survey to unlock the secrets of prehistoric sites at Strandhill’s famous Shelly Valley. Katharine

Shelly Valley - named after the Middens - is home to a large number of these sites which are believed to date to the Stone Age and are visible at the base of the dune. “Many people visit

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Strandhill to see the large dunes, but most don’t realize that they are actually walking across a prehistoric landscape,” says Dr. Bonsall. Archaeological studies suggest that Sligo may have been one of the earliest places of human settlement in Ireland. The megalithic cemetery of Carrowmore dates back to the Stone Age and is part of a huge complex of remains connecting Carrowkeel in south Sligo to the Ox Mountains, to the Cuil Irra Peninsula, where Queen Maeve’s tomb, Miosgán Médhbh, dominates the western skyline from the crest of Knocknarea Mountain. Famous medieval manuscripts written in County Sligo include the Book of Ballymote, the Great Book of Lecan, and the Yellow Book of Lecan. The patron of the Annals of the Four Masters was Ferghal O Gadhra of Coolavin in south County Sligo. Sligo was not officially a county until after the Nine Years War, in 1603. Its boundaries reflect

the Ó Conchobhair Sligigh overlordship of Íochtar Connacht (Lower Connacht) as it was at the time of the Elizabethan conquest. This overlordship consisted of the territories of Cairbre Drumcliabh, Tír Fhíacrach Múaidhe, Tír Ollíol, Luíghne, Corann and Cúl ó bhFionn. Each of these was made into an English style barony, hence Carbury, Tireragh, Leyny, Tirerril, Corran and Coolavin. The capital of the newly shired county was placed at Sligo. Benbulben Mountain is said to be Ireland’s most distinctive and is known, by some, as Ireland’s version of the Table Mountain. Many legends and tales have been woven around Benbulben. Mysterious, shady valleys dominate the landscape in this upland, alpine-like region. Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery is the largest, and one of the most important, megalithic sites in Europe. Over 60 tombs have been located by archaeologists. The oldest pre-dates Newgrange by 700 years and is older than the pyramids. 61


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Sligo Folk Park is located in the beautiful village of Riverstown, in the southern part of the county. This community-based attraction provides a true experience of rural life and Irish heritage in the late 19th century. The Folk Park is set in the grounds of the authentically restored Millview House, which was originally built in 1873 by George Reid, a farmer, shoemaker and church sexton. SHE SELLS SEA SHELLS In Sligo the Wild Atlantic waves crash ashore, piling up long golden beaches of broken shells and weathered stone over the millennia. Shards of broken shell picked randomly along Streedagh beach in North Sligo inspire jewelry designer Martina Hamilton as does Sligo’s deep cultural heritage which reaches back across six millennia. Martina Hamilton is a multi-award-winning jewelry designer from County Sligo. Working from her studio in Sligo town with a small team of master goldsmiths Martina creates jewelry collections which are stocked by Ireland’s most exclusive retailers including The Cat 62

& The Moon, Kilkenny Shop, Arnotts, House of Ireland, Avoca and Blarney Stores as well as many international outlets. Her early collections ‘Spirit of Ireland’ and ‘The Cat and the Moon’ remain leading sellers for her studio outlet which bears testament to their design quality and authenticity. For those visiting Sligo be sure to drop into the Cat and Moon in Sligo town. The shop offers a luxurious selection of jewelry, fine art and handcrafts exclusively designed and made in Ireland. You may even be lucky enough to bump into Martina who will be delighted to tell you about her collections and her inspiration “that spark I still find turning over shells on the beach.”


SLIGO | SHELLY VALLEY

Cawley’s

Accommodation Bar Restaurant

Over 54 years in business at the heart of South Sligo

Explore Sligo’s Hidden Gems or try a local activity - hiking, fishing, guided walks, kayaking, cycling in the Ox Mountains, foraging, archaeological tours, eagles flying, golfing or try a local Sligo Food Trail experience. Cawley’s is an ideal base for your holiday to explore Sligo, the North West of Ireland and the Wild Atlantic Way. Coach tours catered for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Coach parking available 100m from our entrance.

Bar and Restaurant I Rooms I Terrace and Garden Cawley’s, Emmet Street, Tubbercurry, Co.Sligo

(071) 9185025 I reception@cawleysguesthouse.ie I www.cawleysguesthouse.ie Spirit of Ireland Final.indd 1

03/08/2018 16:37:35

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Gateway TO THE PAST ICONIC IRISH SITES RANGING FROM THE PHOENIX PARK IN DUBLIN TO THE WORLD HERITAGE NEWGRANGE PASSAGE TOMB ARE AN INTEGRAL PART OF IRELAND’S CULTURAL HERITAGE.

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reland presents the visitor with a unique heritage experience no matter what area you choose to visit. A vast range of over 70 heritage sites consisting of abbeys, castles and gaols fall under the care of the Irish Office of Public Works and an annual visitor pass at just €40 or a family pass at €90 opens the door to an array of heritage experiences at a very low cost. Dublin is home to some of the country’s finest architectural examples spanning two millennia, some of which are now used as museums, state apartments and state residences. Boasting the largest public city park in all of Europe, Dublin also has many fine examples of civic parks and gardens and it is home to the National Botanic Gardens. Compare these elegant buildings with the 64

more elaborate ecclesiastical setting of the Rock of Cashel in Co Tipperary (pictured above). The grandeur of the parks and castles contrasts with the remains of a 5,000 years old civilization found at the Céide Fields in Co Mayo or the spectacular prehistoric stone fort at Dún Aonghasa on Galway’s Aran Islands, both framed by the wild Atlantic Ocean. A diversity of landscapes can be enjoyed by nature lovers in the richness of our natural heritage. On the north west coast, lies Glenveagh National Park and Castle with over 16,000 hectares of mountains, lakes glens and woods. Off the southern coast is a world-famous island garden of rare beauty, Ilnacullin or Garinish Island. On the south east coast, the John F Kennedy Arboretum in Wexford has a plant collection of international standing containing

4,500 varieties of trees and shrubs from all temperate regions of the world, while Emo Court in Co Laois combines beautiful gardens and parkland with a Gandon designed neo-classical mansion. Towards the east, in December, the morning sun of the Winter Solstice awakens another unique World Heritage Site at Newgrange, Co Meath and lights the path of history to the seat of the ancient High Kings of Ireland at Tara. Or visit the wooded glens and ancient monastery of Glendalough which is set in a glaciated valley with two lakes. The monastic remains include a superb round tower, stone churches and decorated crosses. Full details of the many heritage sites that are awaiting your visit are available on www.heritageireland.ie


YEATS SOCIETY | SLIGO

Land of

HEART’S DESIRE CAST A COLD EYE ON LIFE, ON DEATH. HORSEMAN PASS BY.

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or sixty years, Yeats Society Sligo has celebrated the work of WB Yeats and his family. One of the most quoted poets in the world, Yeats’ poetry has continued to engage a global audience, even though he was born in the Victorian era and died before World War II. Each week the society welcomes visitors from around the world, Australia, France, Germany, US, UK and so many other countries; people who are making the journey to Sligo to learn about the great poet, Yeats. William Butler Yeats, the Nobel poet and playwright, always understood that Sligo was in his deep heart’s core. The port town, where his mother Susan Pollexfen was born, became the anchor of his poetry and his life, and he cherished its mythical landscape and cultural

traditions throughout his seven decades. As a boy, Yeats loved the sea, climbed the mountains, fished and walked by the rivers. He called his first play Land of Heart’s Desire, the name always now associated with Sligo and its wild, unspoilt beauty. Sligo is a small county on the Wild Atlantic Way, in the north west of Ireland. It is home to a startling combination of forest, lake, river, hills, the rugged Atlantic coastline and two of the most iconic mountains in Ireland. Its landscape remains largely untouched by industry or housing, and visitors can come to Sligo today and stand where Yeats stood, see what he saw and be inspired as the great poet and writer was when he first came to visit his mother’s family from his birthplace in Dublin. 65


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Yeats Society Sligo has its home in the heart of Sligo in the Yeats Building, right on the Hyde Bridge, crossing the River Garavogue. It is a cultural center where a Yeats exhibition is open all year round, Monday to Saturday, 10-5 where staff provide a guided tour telling the story of WB Yeats, his mother Susan, father John and siblings Susan (Lily), Elizabeth (Lolly) and Jack and their connection with and strong love for Sligo. There are some WB first edition poetry books, photos and original drawings and illustrations by Jack Yeats. Currently the society has on loan Lily’s original desk, from which she wrote many letters to her family members and kept a diary and scrapbook. The Yeats Society welcome tours from Japan, China, the US and Europe every week and regularly work with translators. They offer a unique talk about the story of Sligo and of Yeats, his life and family and their many secrets. If required, the society can offer a talk specifically on Yeats poetry, with one of their experts. Occasionally, they also invite writers to come in to talk about how the Sligo landscape inspires their work. 66

The society can custom build a visit for any size group, up to a maximum of 50 where they can offer poetry readings and/or singing, traditional Irish music and/or singing or classical music. For smaller groups, they can offer a basic lesson on a traditional Irish tin whistle or show the basic skills of harp playing. “We can also organize a short lesson in the design work, so beautifully created by Elizabeth Yeats or the early drawings of Jack Yeats. If the group is traveling onwards, we can offer teas and coffees or a light lunch of soup, wraps and sandwiches,” explains Susan O’Keeffe, Director of the Yeats Society. “In addition to our tours, we run a variety of events. Annually, for the past 59 years, at the end of July, we run the 10-day Yeats International Summer School, the world’s longest-running school of its kind; a ten-day immersion in Yeats’ poetry, drama, with walks, talks music and visual arts. We celebrate Yeats Day Festival, to mark WB’s birthday on June 13th with fun and a giant Yeats street puppet and we also take part in the annual Lily Lolly Craftfest, honoring the contribution made by


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Yeats' most famous poem Yeats’s sisters to the craft heritage of Ireland. “We join in a variety of national cultural events; Poetry Day Ireland in April, Heritage Week in August and Culture Night in September. We organize occasional writing workshops for children, teenagers and adults and we host readings, talks, concerts and plays.”

during her tenure at the society in addition to readings and other engagements. She can also be engaged by a visiting group to do a reading or a short workshop on the writing of poetry.

HYDE BRIDGE GALLERY The Hyde Bridge Art Gallery is run by the society and is on the first floor of the building. It hosts a new exhibition each month and specifically aims to support new and emerging contemporary artists, many of whom live locally and are inspired by the landscape and the seascape.

Any visit to the Yeats building can be followed, if required by an hour-long walk around Sligo town, where tour guide takes visitors to the places and buildings associated with the Yeats family and his mother’s family, the Pollexfens, who were merchants and traders and owned a substantial amount of business in the town in the mid to late 19th century. Staff can also advise on any additional Yeats-related tours in Sligo, either to Knocknarea mountain, Lough Gill or Rosses Point.

“We now have our first Poet in Residence, American-born Irish poet, Alice Lyons who is a torch bearer for contemporary poetry and a reminder of the value and importance of poetry in our lives and as a way of expressing our life’s responses,” explains Susan. Alice offers support to the members of the society interested in poetry and will write a number of poems

“Sligo and its connection with the life and work of WB Yeats is unique in Ireland. We at the Yeats Society are here to help you to explore the wonder of that connection and to enjoy one of the most beautiful, unspoilt landscapes anywhere on earth. Each visit is a unique one and we look forward to all of them.” Susan O’Keeffe, Director Yeats Society.

The Lake Isle of Innisfree I will arise and go now, and go to Innisfree, And a small cabin build there, of clay and wattles made; Nine bean rows will I have there, a hive for the honey bee, And live alone in the bee-loud glade. And I shall have some peace there, for peace comes dropping slow, Dropping through the vales of the morning to where the cricket sings; There midnight’s all a glimmer and noon a purple glow, And evening full of the linnet’s wings. I will arise and go now, for always night and day I hear lake water lapping with low sounds by the shore; While I stand on the roadway, or on the pavements grey, I hear it in the deep heart’s core. (1888) 67


4* Luxury along the Famous Wild Atlantic Way.

Swan Point, Sligo, Ireland.

Discover our Luscious Green Countryside and Wild Atlantic Coastline and do it all from this 4-star City Centre Luxury! email - info@theglasshouse.ie phone - (00) 353 71 919 4300

www.theglasshouse.ie


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Through the Looking Glass WITH STUNNING DESIGN AND SPACIOUS ROOMS, THE GLASSHOUSE HOTEL HAS A RIVERSIDE SETTING RIGHT IN THE HEART OF BUSTLING SLIGO TOWN.

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he Emerald Isle and the world-renowned Yeats County is just waiting to be discovered and the ideal place to base yourself is right in the heart of it all. The Glasshouse Hotel is conveniently located in the capital of Ireland’s North-West. This stylish four-star hotel towers dramatically over the Garavogue River offering the discerning traveler chic interiors, great city views and proximity to all that Sligo has to offer. The spectacular county of Sligo is a tourist’s haven, boasting a large range of activities from horse riding, trekking, golf and water sports such as surfing and kayaking. With miles of rugged Wild Atlantic coastline, these luscious lands pave the way to beautiful beaches and spectacular shorelines. Hike up Europe’s only tabletop mountain and visit Queen Maeve’s grave at the top of Knocknarea. Read famous poetry by WB Yeats and learn all about his enthralling life at his memorial building and art gallery. Explore the nearby caves of Keash and the islands that surround this wonderful county. Back in the heart of it all enjoy the delights of buzzing Sligo town. Here The Glasshouse has become something of an icon. Shaped like a ship in dock, the hotel’s glass exterior can be seen from afar while inside the quirky interiors are hugely impressive. The hotel and its staff have won many prestigious accolades including an Irish Hotel Award, McKenna’s Guides and YESChef Awards. The esteemed Kitchen Restaurant is AA Rosette winning and is run by Executive Head Chef,

Alan Fitzmaurice. Alan and his team use only the best quality seasonal produce, allowing menus to boast a real flavor of the Wild Atlantic Way. Their award-winning handmade chocolates have to be tasted to be believed! Sample all of Sligo’s culinary delights and enjoy a food experience like no other at this stylish hotel. No trip to Ireland is complete without sampling a pint of “the black stuff”. At The Glasshouse, the magnificent Manhattan-style View Bar is the perfect setting to sip on a pint of Ireland’s famous stout while overlooking the Garavogue River. With floor-to-ceiling windows and luxurious décor this is the perfect spot to sample local craft beers, whiskeys, gins or a fine variety of the best global wines. Friendly bar staff are always on hand for recommendations and with so much to choose from, sometimes a little guidance is necessary. Entertainment is also flowing at The Glasshouse where you can sit back and soak up the traditional Irish atmosphere with weekly live music sessions by Sligo’s local Comhaltas Group. On Friday nights the tempo changes as Sligo center is all about jazz. Soak up a pint and the atmosphere at The View Bar for live Friday night jazz sessions with the talented and esteemed Jazz Lads. Be prepared for a hundred thousand welcomes at The Glasshouse Hotel where you’ll always feel at home away from home. Friendly staff always go above and beyond and no request is too big or too small. A warm welcome is guaranteed at, The Glasshouse Hotel. 69


LAND OF LAKES | CAVAN

Best of Breffni TODAY’S TRAVELER WANTS TO FIND SOMETHING DIFFERENT, AUTHENTIC AND SURPRISING ON THEIR TRAVELS, AND THIS APPLIES TO THOSE WHO HOLIDAY AT HOME JUST AS MUCH AS OVERSEAS VISITORS.

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ne of Ireland’s hidden gems, County Cavan has much to offer, from jawdropping scenery to lip-smacking cuisine, not to mention a few surprises at every turn. Here’s a few of our favorite things to do in the Breffni County: CAVAN BURREN PARK Located just outside the village of Blacklion, this stunning prehistoric landscape is set against the backdrop of the Cuilcagh Mountain and West Cavan. The park is filled with fascinating Neolithic monuments, and features an interpretive center and accessible walks, with handy information posts to guide you. MARBLE ARCH CAVES UNESCO GLOBAL GEOPARK One of three UNESCO Geoparks in Ireland, and the world’s only cross-border Geopark, it covers most of Counties Fermanagh and Cavan, stretching from Cavan Town in the center all the way to Dowra in the west of the 70

county. Geoparks are areas with geological heritage of international significance which contain sites of archaeological and historical importance, areas with interesting flora and fauna and also sites that have folklore behind them. Notable Geopark sites include Moneygashel Cashel, Tullydermot Falls and The Shannon Pot, the source of the River Shannon. CAVAN COUNTY MUSEUM Housed inside a beautiful 19th century building (a former convent) in Ballyjamesduff, this museum’s wide-ranging collection includes a vast collection of 18th, 19th and 20th-century costumes together with relics from the Stone, Bronze, Iron and Middle Ages, including the Celtic Killycluggin stone and the three-faced Corleck Head, as well as a 1000-year-old boat excavated from Lough Errill. Outside, the World War 1 Trench Experience, the largest replica trench anywhere in the UK and Ireland, has sound

effects alongside its dug-out, sandbagged trenches. Painstakingly constructed to the specifications of a Somme trench, it’s brilliantly evocative. CLOUGH OUGHTER CASTLE One of the last Irish outposts to hold out against the forces of Oliver Cromwell, it was here that the great Ulster General Owen Roe O’Neill lost his life. Its walls still blasted by cannon-fire, Clough Oughter Castle stands like a lone sentry in the middle of the beautiful and isolated Lough Oughter. A novel way to get out there is to head for Cavan Canoe Centre where you can hire canoes and rowing boats. Located at Inishmore, just 10 minutes from Cavan Town, Cavan Canoe Centre is the perfect place to stretch your legs and enjoy some fresh air and fun activity. Whether it’s a boat trip to Clough Oughter Castle (highly recommended), or more high-


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too.Running each May across the county, the Cavan Walking Trail is a hugely popular festival showcases the natural beauty and rich heritage of Breffni County. Visitors can enjoy enchanting walks of all levels of difficulty in a warm, convivial group atmosphere.

octane activity, Cavan Canoe Centre has it all, from stand-up paddling, canoeing and splash and dash, to cycling and pony trekking. During the summer months, Cavan Canoe Centre also operates out of the scenic Killykeen Forest Park.

ANGLING They say there are 365 lakes in Cavan, one for every day of the year. Truth is, that’s probably a conservative estimate; rivers and lakes are everywhere, and they’re teeming with course and game fish. Lough Sheelin, in particular, is one of Europe’s best trout fisheries. It’s no wonder English and German tourists have been enjoying Cavan hospitality for decades.

MACNEAN HOUSE AND RESTAURANT Home to the nation’s best-loved chef, Neven Maguire, and set in the stunning little West Cavan village of Blacklion, this multi-awardwinning restaurant is on every foodie’s bucketlist. Demand is understandably high, but it’s always worth checking to see if there’s a lastminute cancellation.

BEAR ESSENTIALS If you go down to Bawnboy today, you’re in for a nice surprise. Bear Essentials is a magical and spacious place which is home to Ireland’s largest selection of teddy bears and also hosts an array of build-your-own-bear workshops, events, crafts and parties. The Silver Bear Centre also showcases old and famous Teddy Bears, Irish artefacts, and even a Teddy Bear Hospital, where your old furry buddy can be made good as new!

FUN FESTIVALS Taking place in August in Cavan Town, The Taste of Cavan is the biggest and best food event in the north-west, attracting tens of thousands of food lovers and families each year. Top celebrity chefs, over 120 stalls providing tasty samples of local food and drink, and lots of great family friendly activities

It may be Killarney that’s known for its lakes but Cavan tops them in both size and numbers, not to mention beauty. Plus in between these watery wonders there are meandering streams, bogs, drumlins and miles of gentle landscape. Cavan is a hidden paradise chock full of things to do. Check out www.thisiscavan.ie and see what you’re missing today.

They say there are 365 lakes in Cavan, one for every day of the year. Truth is, that’s probably a conservative estimate; rivers and lakes are everywhere, and they’re teeming with course and game fish.

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Home is where THE HEART IS

CAVAN IS A SMALL COUNTY BUT ONE WITH A BIG HEART. IT’S NOT AT THE HEART OF ANYTHING, BUT THAT’S PART OF ITS ALLURE.

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s tourist hotspots go in Ireland, Cavan is on the fringe of things on the border between the north and south. It might be perceived as an out-of-the-way chunk of the Emerald Isle and probably a bit off the beaten track, but it’s most definitely a hidden gem. In American parlance, the county of Cavan is a tidy, nature-friendly neighborhood. It boasts a population just north of 76,000 which, to put that into perspective, is only three or four thousand shy of the number of people living in each square mile of Manhattan.

Cavan is the 19th largest of the 32 counties of Ireland in area and the 25th largest by population and it stretches across some 746 square miles. It’s important though that we don’t invite a slew of facts and figures to distract from giving the county of Cavan a sober rating out of 10. Before you pass judgment, you must first investigate Cavan thoroughly. To do so means you must traverse a land of drumlins that time has almost forgotten and tiptoe your way around the 365 lakes that pock-mark the townlands that make up the county. 73


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It may be perceived as an out-of-the-way chunk of the Emerald Isle and probably a bit off the beaten track, but that’s its charm; Cavan is most definitely a hidden gem.

So, you’ve now made it to ‘The Drumlin County’ - as the denizens of Cavan like to call the sod that puts a spring in their step. So where should you head for? A good starting point would be Cavan town (pop circa 10,000). It surely must have one of the narrowest main streets of any county town in the world! Check the width of your ass and cart before you meander up its one-way system because there ain’t much room for turning!

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Positioned on the north side of the main street, you can’t possibly miss the massive Catholic cathedral and the only slightly smaller Church of Ireland church on the same street (Farnham) with its age-old graveyard and attendant historic connections. Again on the same street, Cavan Genealogy Centre is housed in the Johnston Library and Farnham Centre. It offers a full genealogical research service for people with Cavan ancestry.


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Cavan town also plays host to the Cavan Tourist Information Office. It does what it says on the tin, but with charm, warmth and kindness. The thing is though, all Cavan natives are just friends-in-waiting; all mad keen to help you out, so beckon the nearest man-or-woman-abouttown in Cavan for directions and advice. It will make their day. Even the most miserable Mississippian, the crotchetiest Catalonian and the most antagonistic Antipodean would melt in the full glare of the good humor and sincerity of Cavan folk. Cavan folk have been accused of being mean but they rightly put that down to jealousy. Best not to utter any jokes about them peeling an orange in their pocket, eating their dinner out of a drawer in case visitors might call or stripping off the wallpaper when they’re moving house as the locals maintain there are more solicitors/

attorneys in Cavan than there are honest men in nearby Monaghan! Did we mention the fact that God’s own county has a day for every lake in the year? Yep? Then it would entirely make sense for us to point you in the direction of the town of Belturbet, some 10 miles northwest of Cavan town via the N3. On the periphery of Belturbet, you’ll discover millpond calm waterways where cruisers moor and families of many nationalities mingle like friends re-united. A decent drive from Belturbet is the River Shannon which is the longest river in Ireland at 240 miles/386 km. It’s the major constituent of the Shannon-Erne Waterway which is a canal linking the River Shannon in the Republic of Ireland with the River Erne in Northern Ireland and is the proverbial boater’s dreamscape. By the way,

Cavan natives are just friendsin-waiting; all mad keen to help you out, so beckon the nearest manor-womanabout-town for directions and advice. It will make their day.

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both the Shannon and the Erne have their origins not far (22 miles/36 km) from Belturbet, near the village of Glangevlin, to be precise. Glangevlin is only 9 miles/15km from Cavan Burren Park which is a stunning prehistoric park located in the UNESCO designated Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark. The site boasts numerous geological and archaeological features including megalithic tombs and glacial erratics. The site has recently been transformed into an amazing 76

accessible prehistoric park with five looped walking trails including a multi-access trail as well as a brand-new interpretative center, toilet and car park facilities and interpretation across the site. This is walking and picnic country par excellence! Approximately 23 miles/37km southeast of the Burren Park and on the south side of the town of Ballyconnell, you’ll come across opulence itself in the shape of the Slieve Russell Hotel. There you’ll get a chance to view on the hotel grounds


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the Aughrim Tomb, a monument which dates back to 2000 BC. Ask the receptionist there how the tomb managed to turn up at the hotel. Just wondering, you know. The tomb of the unknown soldier is nowhere to be seen at Cavan County Museum but the Cavan World War 1 Trench Experience and Exhibition there will leave you all but shell-shocked at the authenticity of it all. Located in the town of Ballyjamesduff – yes, you’ve guessed it Paddy Reilly’s domain - and only a 20-minute drive south east of Cavan town, Cavan County Museum’s replica trench - complete with information and audio points - lets you discover what it was like in the trenches, based on the building methods used in 1914. Amazingly, 659 of the war dead who served with the British army in the Great War are listed in the Cavan Roll of Honor.

After living the nightmare of ‘going over the top,’ a wee trip up the road to the county’s largest lake, Lough Sheelin, for some calming influence might be in order. Or maybe stop off for a delicious meal? Cloverhill’s Olde Post Inn is like a tone poem. Glowing fires, redbrick walls and effortless hospitality will set you at your ease in jig time, but the simplicity is deceptive. Chef Gearóid Lynch strikes a deft balance between creative Irish cuisine and high-end country cooking, be it a simple scallop with black pudding, an oyster with bacon and cabbage or baked Alaska based on a family member’s rhubarb. There’s a whole lot more to do and to see in the county but we’ve just given you a taste. Bon appétit.

Ballyjamesduff, Co. Cavan, Ireland Unique exhibition experiences, in our historic building and outside in the beautiful gardens of the museum Inside Exhibitions

WW1 Trench Experience

1916 Rising Experience

Battle of the Somme Installation

After war comes peace, and when peace comes, never let it go.

Tel: 049 854 4070 • www.cavanmuseum.ie • Facebook.com/cavanmuseum • Twitter.com/cavanmuseum 77


Gartlans Pub

Gartlan’s is a genuine old traditional thatched Irish pub located in the town of Kingscourt, Co. Cavan Ireland. A listed building full of old world charm. Lower Main Street, Kingscourt Kingscourt, Co Cavan 087 127 1009


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Gartlans

THATCHED PUB N

o visit to the Kingscourt area is complete without a pause at Gartlan’s. It’s thatched roof, whitewashed walls and authentic decor make it recognizable far beyond the county boundaries.

the 18th century thatched cottage in 1911. Over the century-plus that followed, the building established itself as the quintessential Irish bar where visitors could seemingly step back in time simply by crossing Gartlan’s humble threshold.

Owned and run by local couple Padraig and Sheila Smith, the restoration of Gartlan’s Thatched Pub has been a labor of love. With Padraig’s origins on the Lough an Leagh mountain, and Sheila’s in Balloughly, the Smiths are well aware of Gartlan’s significance to Kingscourt.

Padraig and Sheila are no strangers to hospitality having run the Hollow Stream B&B nearby. Together they moved mountains to bring Gartlans back to its former glory adding the resounding sound of music sessions into the mix and a giant dollop of warm Irish Hospitality. Their welcome is famous and for those intending to stop in for just a ‘quick pint’ be warned, it’s nigh on impossible to leave! Rated excellent by 95% of users on TripAdvisor, and a huge draw to locals and visitors alike, the craic is mighty at Gartlans and it just keeps on getting better.

“It is an iconic building,” Sheila explains. “It is Kingscourt really in a lot of ways. Wherever you go, not just in Ireland, but overseas, you will often see pictures of Gartlan’s thatched pub. There are not many buildings left with the thatch, and that’s our interest in it - the heritage.” Gartlan’s owes its origins to the late George Gartlan who reportedly acquired the lease on

Stop off for the best pint of Guinness ever and find yourself falling under the spell of this Kingscourt gem.

Gartlan’s features in Turtle Banbury’s best-selling book ‘The Irish Pub’ which to this day brings many a visitor to its door: ‘You’ve been sitting there since my grandfather’s time’, says Paul Gartlan. ‘Aye, we’ve been coming here a long time’, concurs 70-year-old Dick Cassidy. ‘Once a day, regular as clockwork, hey?’ adds Johnny Browne. ‘But not as long as old Paki Gargan’, points out Dick. ‘Paki was brought in here the day he was christened and he drank here till he died aged 94. He put nearly a century into the place’.

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NORTHERN SIGHTS | MOURNE

Mountains OF MOURNE

AS YOU DRIVE ALONG THE MOURNE COASTAL ROUTE, THE MOURNE MOUNTAINS CURVE ALONGSIDE YOU, RISING LOFTILY ABOVE THE CRYSTALLINE WATER

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hether you’re a hiker or a biker, a lover of food or of wildlife: there’s a lot more going on in the Mourne Mountains than its stunningly scenic backdrop. A sweeping range of grand, granite peaks, the Mourne Mountains are an area of outstanding natural beauty on a whole new level. It’s as you stroll along one of the region’s many weaving trails that you’ll come to realize just what makes this place such a popular spot: from up here, County Down and its treats are spread at your feet.

“This is one of the most beautiful corners of Northern Ireland” – Lonely Planet Driving the stunning Mourne Coastal Route gives you some sense of the vast scale of these mountains – Northern Ireland’s highest – but the best way to see the sights is on foot or by bike. Try the Mourne Mountains Cycle Loop, which brings you over the Spelga Pass and past the 14th century ruins of Greencastle. Or if you prefer hiking, the variety of terrain between the High (Eastern) and Low (Western) Mournes will keep even the keenest walker happy. 81


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A NATURAL MASTERPIECE This place is a treat for wildlife lovers: peregrine falcon, buzzard and meadow pipit flit through the skies alongside green fritillary butterflies, while sheep graze peacefully in foothills ablaze with golden gorse. The Mourne Mountains belong to the surrounding flora and fauna, so bring your camera and get snapping.

This is one of the most beautiful corners of Northern Ireland, with a distinctive landscape of grey granite, yellow gorse and whitewashed cottages.

You can also snap some of the sights from Game of Thrones. Westeros comes to life in Northern Ireland, where the White Walkers marched through the Haunted Forest, aka Tollymore Forest Park, in the shade of the Mournes. Between the grand, Gothic barbican, the cosy Hermitage and the 16 stone bridges, follow the trail of HBO’s masterpiece in a land where fantasy and reality mesh. This is a land steeped in history. St Patrick’s footprints are all over Northern Ireland from rocky Slemish Mountain to simple Saul Church and the contrasting grandeur of Armagh’s two cathedrals, the story of this island’s most famous saint can keep you company. Make the trip to the St Patrick Centre in County Down to find the world’s only exhibition devoted to the saint. THE MOURNE WALL Criss-crossing the rolling landscape is the closely packed, pristinely built stripe of the Mourne Wall. A dry-stone border stretching 35km across 15 peaks, the wall was constructed a century ago and remains one of the most striking features of the Mournes. The beautifully built wall undulates gracefully through and over the Mourne Mountains like the tracks of some Stone Age rollercoaster. If you’re lucky enough to have a day to spending hiking through the hills, the Silent Valley cannot be missed. Visitors can walk the outline of the massive reservoir, explore the history of the workers who built it in the charming settlement of Watertown, or simply drink in the park’s famous silence. On a still day, it’s like a meditation master class. The entire area is graced with some delightful villages and a host of lovely locals. Pull up 82

a chair and have a chat in the Anchor Bar, Newcastle, or head to Warrenpoint where you can stay in Narrow Water Castle with the family that has lived there since 1670. For even more history, head to the fishing village of Kilkeel, the ancient capital of the ‘Kingdom of Mourne’. County Down is packed with diverse activities – especially festivals. Rostrevor has hosted the Fiddlers Green Festival, a folk music phenomenon, for over 30 years while the GI


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Jive festival is a celebration of 1940s American culture; and the Guinness International Blues on the Bay Festival is one of the world’s most popular blues events. You’re guaranteed a good time! Back over the border Carlingford in Ireland’s Ancient East is overflowing with local legend.

Giant Fionn mac Cumhail, folk hero Cú Chulainn and the faeries of the ancient Proposal Stones are just some of the area’s magic. No wonder CS Lewis expected to see “a giant raise his head over the next ridge” here. And of course, the town is home to the Last Leprechauns of Ireland and to an annual Leprechaun hunt, just ask the locals. 83


Literary LEGEND

“I RHYME TO SEE MYSELF, TO SET THE DARKNESS ECHOING.” SEAMUS HEANEY

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oet and Nobel Laureate Seamus Heaney drew his inspiration from the land of his childhood. Come and explore the places that fuelled his imagination. Seamus Heaney’s work showed us the wonder to be found in the ordinary, in everyday objects and in the quiet beauty of rural Ireland. But his poems spoke to the whole world, earning him millions of devoted fans. He traveled a long way, from his childhood on a small farm in Northern Ireland to acclaim as one of the world’s greatest poets.

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By the time he won the Nobel Prize for literature in 1995, he was one of the most beloved names in poetry, praised by the judges for his “works of lyrical beauty and ethical depth, which exalt everyday miracles and the living past”. And in his home place, Bellaghy in County Derry, an exciting visitor centre, Seamus Heaney HomePlace, celebrates this wonderful wordsmith’s life and legacy. Housed in a former police station, Seamus Heaney Home Place honours the poet’s brilliance


LITERARY LEGEND

with all kinds of creative and literary events, video recordings from friends, world leaders and, of course, the dulcet voice of the poet himself. Photographs and memorabilia bring to life this warm, witty man. And if you wander inside the replica of his study – the place where many of his words were put to paper – perhaps you’ll be inspired, too. INSPIRED BY HOME The land around the village of Bellaghy fuelled Heaney’s imagination, no matter how far away he traveled. This little corner of Northern Ireland, east of the Sperrin Mountains and north west of Lough Neagh, with its bogs, rivers and fields, nurtured a genius. Heaney might have lived and worked far away as the years rolled on, but his heart remained in Bellaghy and the surrounding area, and he is buried there, in St Mary’s Church under a simple gravestone of Kilkenny limestone. “Between my finger and my thumb The squat pen rests. I’ll dig with it.” Seamus Heaney These gentle lanes and rolling fields inspired poems such as Digging, Blackberry-Picking, and Follower. His work is steeped in the love of people and of the countryside, and around Bellaghy you can visit the places that meant so much to him and featured in his work. HEANEY COUNTRY Head west from Heaney’s homeplace and you’ll find an ancient walled city where the Wild Atlantic Way meets the Causeway Coastal Route. With its vibrant cultural scene and fascinating history Derry~Londonderry always inspires. An hour’s drive from Bellaghy is Belfast, with its own fascinating literary heritage. Author CS Lewis was born here and in the city’s CS Lewis Square, you’ll find statues of characters from the Chronicles of Narnia, celebrating his much-loved work You can take a Seamus Heaney tour led by the owners of Laurel Villa, a charming

Victorian boutique B&B in the town of Magherafelt. This unique tour of the places associated with Heaney’s life and work offers unrivalled insights to lovers of poetry and nature alike.

DUBLIN LOVES LITERATURE Dublin Writer’s Museum - In a stunningly restored 18th century house in Dublin, you’ll find all you need to know about the giants of Irish literature.

TEACHING & FINDING FAME Seamus Heaney moved to Dublin to teach in the 1970s. He lived in Sandymount for decades (“near a famous strand”, as he put it, referencing James Joyce’s Ulysses) and traveled to America and Britain to lecture, until his death in 2013.

Dublin’s literary attractions - Love literature? From the Abbey Theatre to Trinity College Library and literary museums, there are many attractions to enjoy during your visit to this UNESCO City of Literature including the ubiquitous pub.

In honour of this beloved poet, an exhibition “Seamus Heaney: Listen Now Again” is hosted in the Bank of Ireland Cultural and Heritage Centre on Dublin’s College Green (from 6 July 2018). The National Library’s collection of Heaney’s original manuscripts, along with letters, diaries, photographs and unpublished works will also be on display. College Green, in the heart of literary and social Dublin, is the perfect setting for a very Irish writer who loved company, family and the land of Ireland – and somehow turned those into words of universal beauty.

If there’s one thing you’ll notice about Dublin pubs, it has to be the conversation. Oftentimes, there’s no background music, no slot machines, nothing to distract from the pressing task of putting the world to rights. Its why pubs have had both a historic and a current association with writers. As well as appearing in famous literary works, such as James Joyce’s Ulysses, Dublin’s pubs were frequented by some of the world’s most famous writers. Dublin literary pub crawl - Part street theatre, part walking tour, this is a fun way to discover some of Dublin’s most iconic pubs and the famous writers who once frequented them. 85


SOUTHERN STARS | WEST CORK

TIMELESS LUXURY AT THE HEART OF WEST CORK Exquisite self-catering townhouse in Bantry

No. 14 Wolfe Tone Square is located in central Bantry, along the Wild Atlantic Way and it is the ideal space for an unforgettable holiday to West Cork. This luxurious townhouse, where modern chic furniture is mixed with unique antiques, offers all the modern comforts for your stay. It accommodates up to 13 guests and enjoys stunning views over Bantry town.

Book 7 nights get one FREE

when you quote SPIR19

No. 14 Wolfe Tone Square, Bantry, Co. Cork +353 (0) 83 063 9246 info@14wolfetonesquare.com www.14wolfetonesquare.com 86


SOUTHERN STARS | WEST CORK

Wild about WEST CORK

IRELAND’S SOUTHERNMOST CITY AND CAPITAL OF THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTH WEST IS HIGH ON THE LONELY PLANET’S LIST OF FAVOURITE CITIES IN THE WORLD.

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t’s a spirited, independent place. Cosmopolitan and creative too. And that’s hardly surprising. For Cork is an ancient maritime port that’s spent centuries trading with, and being influenced by the wider world. And it’s a place of learning, with one of Ireland’s oldest universities at its heart. Cork’s got the depth you’d expect from a European Capital of Culture – the galleries, museums and live performances, plus a

packed events calendar, with more than 20 major festivals each year. And there’s a lively city buzz. But there’s also no-nonsense warmth and an unpressured pace that makes you feel time is on your side here. Nature has a hand in that. Cork was founded 14 centuries ago, on islands in an estuary, where the River Lee joins the world’s second-largest natural harbour. Waterways circle the city-centre, crossed by 22 bridges. Hilly neighbourhoods climb the river 87


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banks, stacked with colourful houses and the University’s historic campus seamlessly connects to the city centre Between the grand Georgian parades and medieval alleyways of the central island is the centrepiece 18th century English Market. It’s loud, lively, and packed with flavour: Cork in a nutshell. The star of this indoor casbah and of Cork’s great eating-out scene is the local produce from this fertile region’s fields and seas. To the south the deep bowl of Cork Harbour, with its sailing races and regattas, is circled by some of Ireland’s iconic places. At the harbour’s edge is Cork’s port of Cobh, departure point for millions of emigrants, and the last calling point of the Titanic. It’s a place with a poignant history beneath its cheerful seaside feel. Southwest of the city on the Atlantic coast you can find some of the most picture-perfect towns 88

and villages and some jaw-dropping scenery. Head west for what many say is the best of Cork. GO WEST West Cork is one of the last bastions of old Ireland; a pocket of pretty towns, deserted beaches, jutting peninsulas and island frontiers. Ask any local living between Kinsale and the Beara, Sheep’s Head and Mizen Head Peninsulas where they’re from and they’ll say West Cork – never just Cork. Strictly speaking, West Cork begins at Kinsale and runs in a westerly direction to Dursey Island at the tip of the Beara Peninsula. The further west you head, the more rugged and wild the landscape becomes. When you hit the coastline of little ports, bays, inlets and harbors, expect to share it with the other adventure-seeking surfers, anglers and kayakers who all get drawn there.


SOUTHERN STARS | WEST CORK

Even still, you’ll never feel remotely crowded in West Cork. In fact, sometimes you’ll feel like you have the place entirely to yourself. Well maybe not all to yourself, in these parts expect to meet (or sometimes bump into) the odd sheep, and you really must drive along the gorgeous Sheep’s Head and Beara Peninsula. Along the way stop off a wee while at Bantry town. The bay at Bantry is one of the deepest natural harbors in the world and every day the docks wake up to ships of all sizes arriving with their catch. Bantry’s centerpiece is the town square lined with trees, a huge anchor and a fountain. On Fridays, a market bursts into life, bringing artisan producers in their droves – it’s a great place to pick up a deli lunch of local cheese and salami. And if it’s good food you’re after, Bantry hits the nail on the head, with O’Connor’s Seafood restaurant and the Fish

Kitchen worth a stop for a bowl of crab claws. If you want to take a little piece of Bantry home with you head for the studio of Danny Vincent Smith. Danny hails from Bantry and his bright, colorful surroundings are reflected in his work. An entirely self-taught artist, Danny has been passionately creating art for almost 20 years. Drawing and painting from a young age, Danny has evolved his distinctive style to a fine art. Bright vibrant colors of fishing boats, landscapes, people and places adorn the walls of his gallery. You can’t possibly visit Bantry without heading to the 17th century Bantry House. Still home to the Earls of Bantry, this is a historic house primed for exploration. The views out over Bantry Bay are extraordinary, the gardens magnificent and strolls in the gardens verge on the heavenly. 89


Mizen Head

Ireland’s most Southwesterly Point on the Wild Atlantic Way

“One of the best attractions in Ireland...”

Pic: John Eagle

“... spellbinding”

Mizen Café & Gift Shop www.mizenhead.ie

GPS: 51° 27’ 0.59” N - 9° 49’ 5.99” W

028-35000 / 35115

At Molly Gallivan’s 200 year old Cottage & Traditional Farm you will experience the simple country lifestyle in rural Ireland before the days of electricity & modern conveniences. View 5000 years of history on a 500m walk. www.mollygallivans.com

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AWAY FROM IT ALL Tucked away in the thickly wooded, northernmost corner of Bantry Bay, Glengarriff is a 19th-century resort village at the start of the Ring of Beara. In the second half of the 19th century, it became a popular destination for prosperous Victorians who sailed from England to Cork, took the train to Bantry, then crossed over to the village in a paddle steamer. In 1850 the road to Kenmare was blasted through the mountains and a link with Killarney was established, further increasing Glengarriff’s popularity. You may not expect to find exotic bamboo in the far corners of Ireland, but the mild, frost-free climate here allows a 12-hectare bamboo park to flourish. It has a variety of exotic plants, including palm trees and tree ferns, as well as coastal woodland walks. The valley of the Glengarriff River to the north of the village was once the private estate of the Earl of Bantry. As such, its ancient oak woodland has survived, the thick tree cover maintaining humid conditions that allow ferns and mosses to flourish. In the sheltered harbor of Glengarriff in Bantry Bay lies Garnish Island. Over 70 years ago, a creative partnership between the island owner and an architect led to the island developing its 15 hectares of lush, subtropical woodland gardens and pathways, as well as a colonnaded Italian Garden and a Grecian Temple. Linger here for inspiration. Others did: Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw wrote much of his play Saint Joan at this spot. Hop on the Garinish Island Shuttle with Blue Pool Ferries to see seals, eagles, and the subtropical splendor of Garinish Island. The shuttle departs twice-hourly every day from the Blue 91


SOUTHERN STARS | WEST CORK

Pool dock and tours Glengarriff Harbor past Seal Island, Eagle Point and docks at Garinish Island. Another out of the way, out-worldly place is the Mizen Peninsula, a craggy outcrop where one of Ireland’s prettiest beaches can be found: Barleycove. The long, sandy stretch is framed by rich, green headlands that jut out into the ocean, and boasts Blue Flag status. This is an area of exceptional natural beauty. It covers a region of 34 km from Ballydehob village to Mizen Head, which is the most southwesterly point in Ireland. The Irish Light Signal Station at Mizen Head, which was built in 1905 92

to protect ships from cliffs during fog, is now a visitor centre with some glorious views. The rugged landscape along the Mizen Peninsula is host to plenty of different habitats. Mount Gabriel dominates the landscape near Schull. This is also the location of the oldest worked copper mines of north-west Europe, dating back to the 17th century BC. Other habitats such as bogs, wetlands, cliffs and the seashore have a full and diverse range of species. All across the Mizen Peninsula there is an abundance of wildflowers, heathers, and fuchsia hedges. As the climate in Cork is so mild, the flowering spring season begins much earlier than


SOUTHERN STARS | WEST CORK

The further west you head, the more rugged and wild the landscape becomes and you’ll often feel like you have the place entirely to yourself.

most other areas of Ireland. Foxgloves, primroses, bluebells, daisies and the fiery yellow colour of the gorse bushes bring the countryside to life.

varied and includes old boreens, open grassy and heathery hill, rock, field paths, quiet roads and some short stretches of woodland path.

Anglers, meanwhile, should make a beeline for Sheep’s Head. Local, Jonny Lucey, says: “The shoreline around here is so fantastic, you can walk home with a very healthy take of mackerel.”

The remains of an old copper mine, a blow hole, stone circles, standing stones, high cliffs, a Napoleonic signal tower and old churches are some of the varied attractions to be discovered along the way. Patience may be rewarded by the sightings of dolphins and whales off the westernmost tip of the headland. Here too is the Sheep’s Head lighthouse.

The entire Sheep’s Head Way is a peaceful, unspoilt peninsula which has some of the most beautiful scenery in Ireland. The narrowness of the peninsula means that you are never far from the Atlantic Ocean, even on the outward stretch when you climb to the route’s highest point, 300 meters above sea level. The terrain is very

MEET THE LOCALS While the deserted beaches of West Cork are a big draw, the villages here are especially inviting. 93


Take the Garnish Island Ferry (departs every 30 mins) from Blue Pool Harbour where you can visit Seal Island and Eagle Point before disembarking at Garnish Island

To book please go to www.bluepoolferry.ie or 00 353 2763333 Bluepool 1/2.indd 1

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Skibereen Heritage Centre Schull is a hive of activity and a hub for land and watersport adventure. Glengarriff is surrounded by rich woodland making it feel more like an isolated Canadian outpost than an elegant West Cork village. Allihies and Eyeries are classic picture postcard villages famed for their colorful houses and without a doubt, worth a visit. Skibbereen is a pretty, vibrant and friendly town characterized by its many colorful traditional buildings and shopfronts. Said to be the cradle of Fenianism, the famous Irish revolutionary Jeremiah O’Donovan Rossa became politically active in Skibbereen just after the famine. He went on to become one of the leading members of the Fenian movement. Rossa is commemorated in Skibbereen at O’Donovan Rossa Park, just outside the town. Another well-known Irish revolutionary is Gearóid O’Sullivan who took part in the Easter 1916 Rising. He raised the Irish flag over the GPO during that infamous rebellion. O’Sullivan was a good friend of Michael Collins, another renowned West Cork revolutionary. Collins stopped off at the Eldon Hotel in Skibbereen on August 22nd 1922. Later that day, he was shot dead at Béal na Bláth. Skibbereen is the most significant town in Ireland in terms of its famine heritage and it has an important role in commemorating this pivotal period. Every street in the town has its own story and the people of Skibbereen are extremely proud of their unique heritage. Learn about this important period of Irish history at the Skibbereen Heritage Centre. KINSALE Long known as the food capital of Ireland, Kinsale has been shortlisted as one of the Restaurant Association of Ireland’s ‘Top 10 Foodie Destinations 2018.’ This comes as no surprise to its many visitors as there are over forty restaurants and endless gourmet pubs in this pristine, pretty town. In as much as it is a foodie heaven, Kinsale is also a shopper’s paradise offering a fantastic range of top quality shops and boutiques with

Skibbereen town is synonymous with the Great Irish Famine of the 1840’s when over one million people died and another 1.25 million emigrated. As one of the worst affected areas in Ireland, Skibbereen played a vital role during this tragic period of Irish history.

a guide to the sites in the town where the events took place, including the infamous Famine pits at Abbeystrowry, where up to 10,000 victims are buried. You can also experience the Skibbereen Famine Story app as a ‘virtual tour’ as part of Skibbereen Heritage Centre’s permanent exhibition.

Skibbereen: The Famine Story is a dramatic exhibition at Skibbereen Heritage Centre covering the worst humanitarian disaster of 19th century Europe. The interactive exhibition follows the progression of the Great Hunger through stories about local people and places. The true enormity of this national tragedy is revealed though the experiences of individuals and families and the places in Skibbereen where the events took place.

This Skibbereen Heritage Centre also offers a genealogy service for the greater West Cork area by appointment.

Skibbereen is one of Ireland’s most important famineheritage town and its streets are a tangible link to this defining period in Irish history. Visit these sites and use the Skibbereen Famine Story app as

many unique designs and great gift ideas. Beautiful clothing, homewares, art and jewelry make Kinsale a destination for discerning shoppers. Also, many shops and galleries are happy to post/courier your purchases so they can follow you home. How about taking a look in ‘Granny’s Bottom Drawer?’ Clodagh Murray’s celebrated 95


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interiors, craft and accessories boutique stocks an abundance of Irish designs made in time honored fashion from natural fibers. Specialties include locally-made jewelry, handmade leather bags, Kerry Woolen Mills blankets, Galway silk, Alpaca weaves, cashmere throws and designer knitwear. Grab a fab new bag to go with your bottom drawer purchases at Mamukko, a nautically themed store with a difference. The nautical theme continues at Latitudes Gallery where they create unique three-dimensional nautical chart art, hand made to commission. Meet Bobby Nash, a talented artist from Kinsale who recreates the evocative nature of the sea in a range of bespoke nautical charts presenting them with originality and flair. There is no denying the insanely pretty houses and delightful winding streets of Kinsale town – not to mention limitless tempting restaurants, but set your sights a little further west and discover the Old Head of Kinsale. OLD HEAD OF KINSALE The ‘Old Head’ is one of Ireland’s most spectacular coastal areas. This large promontory juts out into the Atlantic Ocean, rising hundreds of feet above the water with towering sea cliffs. On this stretch of coastal bliss, it feels like you’ve left the world behind. The best way to explore the area is by foot. The Old Head of Kinsale Loop is a gentle 6km (3.7 miles) walk that takes in a circular route around the head. Take a packed lunch, take your time and take in some awe-inspiring views. The dramatic cliffs and lush headland speckled with bursts of white and yellow flowers aren’t the only gems here. The walk will bring you by the mysterious ruins of a fort, which is said to have been built by the Celts around 100BC. Further on, the black and white striped Old Head Lighthouse stands looking out to sea. It was just off the coast here that a German torpedo sank the Lusitania. The wreck still lies beneath the waves. The Old Head of Kinsale is also home to one of the most prestigious golf courses on the planet, 96


SOUTHERN STARS | WEST CORK

West Cork is one of the last bastions of old Ireland; a pocket of pretty towns, deserted beaches, jutting peninsulas and island frontiers.

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´ & Genealogy service

‘Th to be, e place of go the home od song music, a craic nd ’

Traditional Irish Pub & Restaurant Lough Hyne exhibition

Giftshop

Wheelchair access

Adjacent car park

Open Daily ex. Sunday from May - September Open Tue - Sat other months, 10am - 6pm. Old Gasworks Building, Upper Bridge Street, Skibbereen Tel: 028 40900 | www.skibbheritage.com

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Born and raised in the West Cork town of Bantry, Danny Vincent Smith has been painting since he was five. Danny explores a range of colours, techniques and mixed-media producing striking canvasses in his loose, semi-impressionistic style. Paintings that breathe the atmosphere of South West Cork. Danny’s work is collected both in Ireland and internationally www.dannyvincentsmith.com email info@dannyvincentsmith.com dannyvincentsmith www.instagram.com/dannyvincentsmith/

The prints are also available online at dannyvincentsmith.com

Renowned for it’s Traditional Irish Music and Home Cooked Irish Food served daily from 12noon to 9pm The only Traditional Irish Music venue in Kinsale - music seven nights a week

Always a Great Night Assured Contact: Eileen or Seamus, Kinsale, Co. Cork, Tel: 00353 (0) 21 470 0053 e-mail: kittyoses@gmail.com

Céad Míle Fáilte

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@kittykinsale

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SOUTHERN STARS | WEST CORK

the Old Head Golf Links. With the wild Atlantic Ocean crashing all around you, nature is the biggest challenge here. Add on award-winning accommodation and a luxurious spa onsite and perhaps this is the place to completely unwind before continuing along the Wild Atlantic Way? Seaview Suites feature the perfect blend of opulence and comfort offering magnificent views of the 18th green, the Atlantic Ocean and Old Head Lighthouse offer pure indulgence, stunning furnishings and a view to die for – but book ahead, views this good are in big demand! CLONAKILTY Conakilty’s history can be traced back to the 1300’s and traces of the towns heritage can be seen in many of its buildings today. The fine 19th century mill buildings have been nicely adapted for modern use and now houses the town library and County Council offices. The mills supplied the large distillery owned by the Deasy family in 1800, they were also big seafarers in their time and hence the quay named after them, Deasy’s Quay. Clonakilty played a large part in the brewing and bottling history as well as the linen industry with many looms located in Clonakilty in olden times. Nearby, a small disused Presbyterian Church has been put to good use today as the local post office. Today Clonakilty is a busy market town located close to several popular seaside resorts such as Inchadoney with its famous spa and Owenahincha. With its beautifully maintained floral displays in the summer, the town is a joy to explore. Local planning authorities have encouraged the use of traditional hand painted signs with a special emphasis on the Irish language on business premises in the town which adds to its appeal. Clonakilty has everything for the visitor with several fine cafes and restaurants serving excellent local produce and live music in a number of pubs by night especially, An Teach Beag music venue next door to the history rich O’Donovans Hotel. Food lovers will be spoiled for choice in these

parts. This is an area of good fertile land and as a result there are a vast range of local artisan food producers in the area, the best-known being Clonakilty Black Pudding. Also worth a try is smoked fish from nearby Woodcock Smokery in Skibbereen, Gubbeen Cheese and Farmhouse Products near Schull and the well know Irish yoghurts and cheesecakes supplied by Glenilen Farm in Drimoleague and breads from the West Cork Bakery in Dunmanway.

The Old Head of Kinsale is one of Ireland’s most spectacular coastal areas. This large promontory juts out into the Atlantic Ocean, rising hundreds of feet above the water with towering sea cliffs. 99


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MOLLY’S MOUNTAIN DEW The Kenmare to Glengarriff pass is a scenic charm and worthy of a detour, linking as it does West Cork and South Kerry. On the Kerry side you will find Molly Gallivan’s cottage. Widowed with seven small children, Molly Gallivan had to call on all her resourcefulness to keep body and soul together. She supplemented her meagre income from her small mountain farm by opening a ‘Sibin’ (illegal pub). Here she sold her own home made poitín (whiskey) locally known as Molly’s Mountain Dew. In the early 1840s when the mountain pass was built between Glengarriff and Kenmare the road (the Caha Pass) gradually became a prominent tourist route. Horse drawn coach tours were organized for rich English tourists to enjoying the spectacular scenery over the mountains passes from Glengarriff to Killarney and Molly Gallivan’s soon became a welcome stop for weary travelers, to enjoy some of Molly’s home baking and teas. Molly eventually set up her own cottage industry selling hand spun woolens, Aran sweaters and 100

local crafts. Local farmers supplied wool for her industry and neighboring women helped with the spinning and knitting. This generated much needed employment in the community at a time of great poverty and want. Molly Gallivan’s was converted to a grocery store, supplying the community with flour, groceries and other household goods. Jeremiah Gallivan was the last of Molly’s descendants to live in the cottage. Jeremiah, a bachelor, farmed the land using the same traditional methods as his ancestors. After his death in 1997 the cottage was uninhabited until 1999 when the cottage and farm were returned it to their former glory; as it would have been in Molly’s time. Today at Molly Gallivan’s visitors can see the simple lifestyle in rural Ireland as it was before the advent of electricity and modern conveniences. Stop off for a ‘cupán tae’ in Molly’s old tea rooms and visit the shop stocked with locally made crafts, woolens and jewelry as well as Molly’s traditional style of hand knit Aran sweaters.


SOUTHERN STARS | WEST CORK

picture

the most spectacular experience in golf

Old Head Golf Links, Kinsale, Co. Cork, P17 CX88, Ireland. Telephone (+353) (0)21 477 8444

Email reservations@oldhead.com

www.oldhead.com

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Sustainable Stories from the Sea

Mamukko is an award winning eco – conscious venture based along the southern shores of Ireland. Started in 2011 by Hungarian brothers; Levente & Attila Magyar have a passion for creating something local, useful and sustainable. Their family business provides an array of fashionable, functional bags made from reclaimed sailcloth, liferaft and most recently airplane seats. Amidst all of these durable fabrics there is a strong foundation in leather crafting, passed down through a 4th generation heritage. With small scale production in mind, Mamukko’s bags are unique, with fabrics holding true to their original purpose at sea or in air, while enjoying a fresh look on land. Each & every Mamukko bag is handcrafted by the Magyar Family in their workshop in Kinsale, Ireland. Phone: + 353 (0) 85 734 2004 Mail: contact@mamukko.ie Guardwell, Kinsale, Co. Cork, Ireland 102


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Mamukko

GO YOUR OWN WAY M

amukko was founded by two brothers who had a thirst for change. Originally from Hungary, Levente and Attila Magyar dreamt of continuing their family heritage as 4th generation leather crafters. In doing so, they felt an evolving presence along the coastal environment of Kinsale. Since living in Ireland for the past 10 years, the brothers started a movement of their own towards cleaner seas and a clearer conscious. Levente and Attila transform salvaged nautical fabrics into stylish totes and duffel bags. Their products are greatly influenced by the surrounding environment and local love for sailing, fishing and history of the land. Each piece is handmade in their Kinsale workshop where the reclaimed fabrics are stored, cleaned, cut, designed, stitched and finally displayed in their quirky, cool, ocean scape shop in town. Only 5 minutes away from where it is all made , this business is transparent with a low carbon footprint and confidence of being 100% made in Kinsale, Ireland. A genuine concern and care for the environment keeps their wheels turning as Levente asked himself “How can we help the greater good while enjoying the process and keeping things lightweight all around?”

The answer became clear when they picked up their first batch of sailcloth in 2011. An extremely durable yet lightweight material, when mixed with life-raft or leather, the perfect balance is presented. This unique combination of materials creates strong, versatile, and original products commonly referred to as “Go anywhere, do anything” style of bags. Marine fabrics have a strong purpose in the water yet once decommissioned the story is lost. The brothers wanted to continue the story on land by spreading a conscious message and promoting the use of eco-friendly, local, handmade goods to be enjoyed by all. “In an attempt to bridge the gap between products and people, we have dedicated our work towards creating an eco-fashion lifecycle” explains Attila. “Our bags have soul!” SUSTAINABLE STORIES FROM THE SEA “With every drop of water you drink, every breath you take, you’re connected to the sea. No matter where on Earth you live.” - Sylvia Earle Every recycled material has a past and is thus an inspiration for transformation. For Mamukko this transformation is best expressed through something useful. Satchels, duffels and totes along with accessories from

hats, wallets, belts and baskets are what they love to create. And let us not forget the message behind it all, supporting products with a creative eco-conscious story gives a sense of cleaner seas and a clearer collective conscious. Something we can all relate to as these sustainable stories from the sea provide a clearer connection to our rapidly changing earth. Mamukko products are designed to be authentic, sustainable, functional, original and locally made. With a wide variety of items always changing due to small batch production, Levente and Attila invite you to browse their shop in the beautiful seaside town of Kinsale or conveniently online wherever you may be. www.mamukko.ie 103


Little Green Dot

Craft Studio & Irish-Made Design Shop Handmade Toys & Crafted Baby Gifts

It’s all About the Beer

Award-winning Brewery in the ‘Brewery Town’ of Clonakilty Take the chance to visit the Clonakilty Brewing Company Brewhouse. See a working brewery, meet head brewer ‘Thirsty FRank’ and the brewing team and learn how beer is made. Our newly revamped Tasting Room is then ready for you to sample the three beers produced; Tojo American Pale Ale, Inchydoney Blond Belgian Wit and award-winning Smuggler Irish Porter as well as our new special editions. Our beers are also available in the best pubs, restaurants and off-licences nationwide.

Co-operative shop with the work of over 25 local Maker/Designers. Award nominated baby gift & toy-maker’s studio. As featured on TV3’s Ireland AM, in The Irish Times and Irish Examiner. Little Green Dot, 15 Ashe St, Clonakilty, West Cork, Ireland.

(+353) 23 883 6543 www.littlegreendot.ie

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Clonakilty Brewing Company, Unit 1, Clogheen Industial Estate, Clonakilty, Co. Cork www.clonakiltybrew.ie 087 924 6105

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We will take you ‘beyond the glass’ to show you Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. While on our tours you will cycle, hike and take boat trips in the most spectacular locations, you will experience awesome views, amazing landscapes and unparalleled Irish hospitality.

Choose from one of our three Wild Atlantic Way Adventure Tours - The 8 Day Explorer, the 6 Day Adventurer or the 5 Day Challenger

The price of each tour includes all transport for the duration of the tour, 3 star and 4 star B&B accommodation and fully guided activities

We limit the numbers on each tour to 10 people which guarantees you the most rewarding experience.

, CORK, IRELAND. Email: info@beyondtheglass.ie Phone: +353863850398 www.beyondtheglass.ie Beyond the Glass 1/2.indd 1

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SOUTHERN STARS | CLONAKILTY

Joanna O’Brien

Recipe for SUCCESS

Edward Twomey

AS THE OLD SAYING GOES, THE PROOF OF THE PUDDING IS IN THE EATING – AND WHO DOESN’T LOVE CLONAKILTY BLACKPUDDING?

M

any years ago, in the small farmhouses of rural Ireland, the modest income of the household was subsidized by the making of black pudding which was sold to the butchers of nearby market towns along with eggs, butter and other farm produce. One such farmhouse was that of Johanna O’Brien at Sam’s Cross near Clonakilty in West Cork. Johanna’s black pudding was sold to Philip Harrington, whose butcher shop was at 16 Sovereign Street (now Pearse Street) in Clonakilty. When Johanna

eventually retired from making her black pudding, she passed her precious recipe on to Mr Harrington. The 1960s saw the transfer of the business and staff to Patrick McSweeny, who sold the shop and its unknown asset (the secret pudding recipe) to his nephew Edward Twomey in 1976. Edward was recently married to Colette. He had no particular interest in making Blackpudding when he first took over the butcher shop but

Philip Harrington 105


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when he realized the demand, he had to continue making it, as people came from all over Munster to buy it. Demand was such that soon the new business outgrew the butcher shop, so production moved to Twomey’s farm on the edge of Clonakilty. The company name chosen was Carbery Meats, Carbery being the barony name of the area, which eventually became Clonakilty Food Co. Today’s owner and CEO of the company Colette Twomey looks back at this time with great fondness – she has been on quite a journey since then: “When we started out we really had no idea how big the recipe would become,” she explains. “When my late husband Edward and I took over Harrington’s butcher shop from Edward’s uncle in 1976, the Clonakilty Blackpudding recipe remained with the business.” They decided to continue making the Blackpudding using the same recipe. The unique recipe is still the basis for today’s product – beef meat, pinhead oatmeal, onions, dried beef blood and a special mix of spices that remains a secret to this day. “We quickly began to realize that we had two businesses,” explains Colette, “the butcher 106

shop and the Blackpudding business in the early days. We bought a small farm to keep up with demand and converted one of the outhouses into a production facility. From there we began selling Clonakilty Blackpudding at agricultural shows and events. “Meeting customers and asking them about our product was our marketing; that was our research. In fact, much of our advertising was word of mouth, people from Ireland bringing it with them when visiting relatives across the world.” In one particular case ‘word of mouth’ is a charming chapter in the Clonakilty story, starting with a hearty breakfast in a Sligo B&B: “One of the first big breaks came when the owner of a guesthouse in Co Sligo served our Blackpudding to a guest. The following week I received a phone call from the guest, saying that he would like to stock the Blackpudding in his shops. Little did I know that the guest turned out to be one of the directors of the Quinnsworth chain of supermarkets, which subsequently became Tesco. The business really took off from there and we still count that as one of our lucky big breaks.” Colette feels that she was equally lucky in

“Meeting customers and asking them about our product was our marketing; that was our research. In fact, much of our advertising was word of mouth, people from Ireland bringing it with them when visiting relatives across the world.”


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that growth was gradual, steady and organic: “Edward and I wanted to make sure that anyone who liked Blackpudding as much as we did should be able to buy it in their local shop. We just worked to make that a reality.” Slowly, Clonakilty began to gain a foothold in the UK as well as other overseas markets and it wasn’t long until the company was exporting to the EU, Middle East and Australia. EXPANDING THE RANGE Over the years, the product range has expanded to include Clonakilty Whitepudding, Clonakilty Sausages, Clonakilty Rashers and Clonakilty Bacon Joints, as well as a Gluten Free Range including Gluten Free Black and White Pudding, Gluten Free Clonakilty Sausages, Gluten Free Clonakilty Ispíní Móra Sausages (Traditional style) and Gluten Free Clonakilty Ispíní Beaga (Cocktail) Sausages. As the range expanded, the business moved to a larger facility in Little Island, Co. Cork in 1999. In Little Island, Clonakilty Food Co expanded further and entered the UK, Australian and UAE markets. In 2012, listings in the UK multiples commenced and in August of 2017, Woolworths in Australia began selling their Blackpudding. In 1989 at the Butcher’s Association National Awards, Clonakilty Blackpudding and Clonakilty Whitepudding won first prize in their respective categories which in turn gave them national recognition and Clonakilty Food Co has won awards in Ireland, the UK and France ever since. The humble pudding has now gone from being a breakfast item to something of a gourmet treat – all good news for Colette and her team. “It is true that Blackpudding has moved beyond being a breakfast staple. As eating habits have continued to change, so too has the versatility of Blackpudding. In fact, Blackpudding is now a growing trend amongst chefs across the world for its richness in flavour and versatility,” explains Colette. “It really is the perfect addition to enhance any starter, salad or main course. It is delicious paired with scallops, used as a stuffing in chicken breasts, or as a topping for pizza or pasta. The versatility of our Blackpudding has

had a positive effect on sales and we continue to inspire and encourage consumers on how to use our product in a variety of ways.” Would Colette serve Blackpudding at a fantasy dinner party? She gives a resounding yes, and when asked who she might share this meal with she chuckles and says “you can’t throw a great dinner party without good conversation, and some after-dinner entertainment. I would choose Oprah Winfrey for an inspiring chat, Rory McIlroy for some insightful golf tips and Bruce Springsteen in the hope that an after-dinner sing song would continue long into the night!” A charming and savvy businesswoman, what is the best decision Colette has ever made? “The best decision I ever made was not to give up on making Blackpudding all those years ago. In the late 70s when myself and my late husband, Edward took over the butcher shop, we did wonder whether to continue making Blackpudding. It truly has been the best decision to continue. I never looked back.” BACK TO ROOTS As demand for the product continues to grow and the new product development team continued to innovate, a brand-new custom-built production facility was opened in Clonakilty in October last year. The new facility also houses administration offices, new product development facilities and distribution. This year will see the opening of a visitor center with a vision to immerse visitors in the history and tradition of Clonakilty Blackpudding, to offer them an opportunity to see how it’s made, and to highlight the company’s pride in the town it originates from.

“The best decision I ever made was not to give up on making Blackpudding all those years ago. In the late 70s when myself and my late husband, Edward took over the butcher shop, we did wonder whether to continue making Blackpudding. It truly has been the best decision to continue. I never looked back.”

“We look forward to opening the new Visitor Centre where we look forward to welcoming tourists from near and far. This is a new direction for the company as we look forward to being part of the town’s bustling tourism industry,” enthuses Colette. Clonakilty Food Co. will continue to build on the values held by Colette Twomey, the team at Clonakilty and their belief in the product – a product that has not deviated from the secret recipe of the 1800s. 107


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Clonakilty Breakfast

Clonakilty Blackpudding Burger Clonakilty Blackpudding, feta and SERVES 4 apple salad with lemon dressing

INGREDIENTS 227g Clonakilty Ispíní Sausages 280g Clonakilty Blackpudding 280g Clonakilty Whitepudding 200g Clonakilty Slisíní Rashers 4 free range eggs Bunch of asparagus

INGREDIENTS 170g Clonakilty Blackpudding 330g good quality minced beef 1 egg yolk 1 small onion Salt and pepper

SERVES 4

SERVES 4

METHOD 1. Heat a pan on medium heat and add a small amount of oil or butter. Allow to heat and then add sausages and both puddings. 2. Adjust heat and keep turning sausages and pudding until cooked through. Place rashers under a medium grill and flip after 10 minutes. Keep cooking until desired level of crispiness has been reached. 3. Once sausages and puddings are cooked remove them from the pan and keep in a heat proof dish under the grill. 4. Wash and remove ends of asparagus. Place in boiling salted water for 3 to 4 minutes. Strain and keep warm under the grill with sausages and rashers in heat proof dish. 5. On the same pan heat oil or butter gently and crack in your eggs. Allow to cook gently and using a spoon pour oil from the pan over the top of the egg. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes depending on how you like eggs cooked. 6. Remove eggs when cooked and place in heat proof dish to complete your one tray breakfast. Serve with freshly buttered toast.

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METHOD 1. Finely dice the onion. 2. Mix all the ingredients together thoroughly. 3. Divide into 170g portions. 4. Shape firmly to a round burger patty. 5. Place in the fridge covered and allow to chill for at least one hour. 6. Cook evenly on both sides until fully cooked. They can be cooked under a grill or on a pan but are best on a BBQ. 7. Serve your Clonakilty Blackpudding Burger on a warm burger bap with your favourite relish, crisp lettuce and sautéed onions. Or you could try it with some sliced avocado and your favourite cheese.

INGREDIENTS 200g Clonakilty Blackpudding 100g diced feta cheese 1 apple (skin on and cut into matchsticks) Mixed salad leaves Crushed walnuts Small handful of grapes For the dressing: 2 cloves garlic (minced or finely chopped) ½ tsp of black pepper 2 pinches salt ½ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice METHOD For the dressing: 1. Put the garlic, black pepper, salt, olive oil and lemon juice into a clean, empty jam jar or water bottle. 2. Shake the jar/bottle vigorously for 1-2 minutes to make sure the olive oil and lemon juice are mixed well with each other. (Note: the above quantity makes enough dressing for approx. 35 servings). For the salad: 1. Fry the pudding in a hot oiled pan until evenly cooked and crispy. Set aside and keep warm. 2. In a large bowl, gently mix some mixed leaves with feta, apples, grapes and crushed walnuts. 3. Crumble the warm Blackpudding over the salad followed by a generous amount of the olive oil and lemon salad dressing.


MICHAEL COLLINS | CLONAKILTY

Michael Collins HOUSE

FOR MANY, MICHAEL COLLINS WAS THE FOUNDER OF THE IRISH REPUBLIC. KNOWN AS ‘THE BIG FELLA’ COLLINS WAS A LEADING FIGURE IN THE FIGHT FOR IRISH INDEPENDENCE.

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ichael Collins House in Clonakilty is a museum dedicated to Irish patriot and revolutionary hero Michael Collins. The museum, which only opened in 2016, has already become a must-see attraction when visiting West Cork and has received very positive feedback from travelers from near and far. Visit to learn all about Michael Collins the politician, the soldier and lost leader; about his life story entwined with the history of the fight for Irish independence. Michael Collins is synonymous with Clonakilty and West Cork. He was born and grew up on the family farm in Woodfield just a few miles outside the town. As a young boy he listened to stories of local rebel rising such as Tadhg an Asna and the Battle of the Big Cross in 1798 and of Jeremiah O’Donovan Rossa and the Irish Republican Brotherhood. These instilled a lifelong patriotism in the young boy and sowed the seeds of the future revolutionary hero. In 1903, aged 13, he moved into Clonakilty town

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and into Emmet Square with his sister Margaret and her husband, Patrick O’Driscoll, the founder and proprietor of the original West Cork People newspaper. In fact, while living with the O’Driscolls’, Collins would help out with the newspaper. He learned to type and pieced together reports and results from local sports events. During this period from 1903 to 1905 he attended the Clonakilty Boys National school, now Clonakilty Parish Centre, to study for the Civil Service Temporary Boy Clerk examination. He passed the examination, moved to Clogheen, Clonakilty briefly, and then to London to work for the British Civil Service in the West Kensington Post Office Savings Bank. Over the next ten years in London Collins always remained close to his West Cork roots. He joined the Geraldines GAA club who had close connections with West Cork and many of his closest friends and colleagues such as Sean Hurley and Sam Maguire were also West Cork men. One interesting artefact in Michael Collins House is a postcard sent to Michael


MICHAEL COLLINS | CLONAKILTY

from Rosscarbery in the summer of 1915 with a picture of Collins’ local hero, Tadhg an Asna’s statue in Asna sq, Clonakilty on the front. The brief message on the card is ‘in memory of the brave Tadhg and his comrades’ from the 1798 Battle of the Big Cross and also keeps Collins up to date on the weather and the ‘haymaking’ taking place back at home. Collins returned to Ireland in 1916 to take part in the Easter Rising and would have little chance to return home again for any significant time due to his roles of Director of Intelligence of the IRA and Minister of Finance for Dail Eireann during the War of Independence from 1919 to 1921. Sadly, Collins tour of West Cork as Commander in Chief of the Free State Army during the Civil War on August 22nd 1922 would be the last time he would see the place he called home. On his return journey to Cork City, Michael Collins was shot and killed when his convoy was ambushed at Beal na Blath. On that day Ireland lost one of its greatest heroes and Clonakilty lost its most famous son. IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF HEROES With such a close connection to Clonakilty there are a number of sites in the area where you can walk in Collins’ footsteps and learn all about the man himself and the greater story of Irish independence. There is Michael Collins birthplace located just outside Clonakilty; the small cottage where Collins was born surrounded by a beautiful serene memorial garden on the site of the original larger farmhouse which was burned down in 1921 by the Essex Regiment. Near Timoleague is the Michael Collins Centre, a privately owned interpretive dedicated to Collins and rural life. 35 minutes north of Clonakilty is Beal na Bláth, the spot where Michael Collins was tragically killed in an ambush during the Irish Civil War in August 1922. In Clonakilty itself, walk the streets that Collins walked and take in the sites, history and friendly atmosphere of this colourful West Cork town. See the school Collins attended as a teenager, walk the main street where he gave many passionate speeches, visit his statue in Emmet square where he once lived and of course, take a tour of Michael Collins House.

In the surroundings of a beautifully restored Georgian townhouse, history is brought to life for all the family. Michael Collins House presents the whole story of Collins’ life in an easily accessible manner through the use of guided tours, interactive displays, audio visuals, artefacts, information boards and more. The museum also explores local history and highlights how it influenced the inquisitive young boy who would go on to become one of Irelands greatest revolutionary heroes. As well as the Michael Collins story learn about the roots of rebellion in West Cork; the 1798 Rebellion, Jeremiah O’Donovan Rossa, the Fenians and the Irish Republican Brotherhood. See how these influence a young Collins and encouraged him to take the path he took. Discover the wider, national story of Irish independence including the 1916 Rising, the War of Independence and the Civil War. All this is presented in a way suitable for all ages and levels of interest and understanding to ensure everyone who visits will have an enjoyable and worthwhile experience. For those looking for a more in depth historical experience; academically qualified tour guides are more than willing to discuss, debate and answer any questions you may have. Another level of interaction comes on board for the summer season of 2018 with the new Michael Collins House mobile app. This app takes the visitor on an audio-visual tour of the museum with an audio guide, photos, videos, in depth artefact information and much more. This give the museum another dimension and allows for a deeper understanding and even more information to enjoy at your own leisure. Michael Collins House opens Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 5pm and Sundays 12pm to 5pm (last admission 4pm) during the summer period while operating a four-day week in the winter. Guided tours run daily at 11am, 1pm and 3pm with self guided or app guided tours in between. Entry is very affordable at just €5 for Adults, €3 for Students/Seniors, €2 for children and discounted family and group rates. Visit michaelcollinshouse.ie for more information.

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eighteen children! Sadly, however, as the result of an accident, Thomas had one of his legs amputated. His wooden leg and ‘spare’ can still be seen in one of the many display boxes around the hotel. When Thomas died the hotel was due to pass to his son Denis, however, at the actual time of Thomas’ passing in 1883, Denis had become a priest and served in Rome. Catherine therefore assumed ownership of the hotel and she purchased property on Sovereign Street (now Pearse Street) for the sum of one thousand five hundred pounds where she had the present hotel built by in 1889.

Six Generations OF HISTORY

A HISTORIC SIXTH GENERATION, FAMILY RUN HOTEL, O’DONOVAN’S IS A 200-YEAR-OLD FAMILY BUSINESS IN THE HEART OF CLONAKILTY TOWN.

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’Donovan’s is Clonakilty’s oldest family run establishment originally built in Boyle Street (now Astna Street) in 1853, by Denis O’Donovan.

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When Denis passed away in 1886 one of his four sons Thomas took over. There wasn’t much that stopped Thomas, he and his wife Catherine had

On her death in 1918, she bequeathed the hotel to her daughter Catherine. Catherine born in 1882, was fondly known as Miss Katty or Aunty Kat. A pioneering spirit, she traveled far and wide and was considered to be far ahead of her time. A keen horse-woman, Katty is credited with being the first woman in the area to ride western saddle, wear trousers and smoke in public! On her death in 1954, Katty (who never married), passed the business on to her nephew Thomas. Thomas and his sister Bernie ran the business for many years, then Thomas and his wife Mary had 7 children. Photographs of the O’Donovan dynasty adorn the main stairs of the hotel and there are artifacts on display giving an insight into times gone by as well as old maps and books for the historically minded guest. FAMOUS GUESTS While every guest is special at O’Donovans, over the years there have been many famous visitors including the patriot and rebel


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leader Michael Collins (1890-1922). Born near Clonakilty town, General Michael Collins was to become one of Ireland’s greatest statesmen. A regular visitor to O’Donovan’s Hotel, he gave many an oration from the first-floor window of the hotel and from the main door. He died during an ambush at Beal na Blath near Clonakilty in 1922. Radio pioneer Guglielmo Marconi (1874 1937) arrived unexpectedly in Clonakilty in 1907. Of Irish-Italian Parentage, Marconi was an electrical engineer and pioneer of the radio. In 1907 he mistakenly alighted from his train at Clonakilty Junction and took the train to Clonakilty instead of proceeding directly on the Bantry line to Crookhaven where he was involved in a trans-Atlantic wireless station. As the train pulled into Clonakilty, he discovered his mistake and was directed to O’Donovans Hotel, where he refreshed himself and was provided with a covered car and driver and a splendid pair of horses with which to continue his journey. Irish Nationalist leader Charles Stewart Parnell (1847 – 1891) was the father of Home Rule in Ireland. On his visit to Clonakilty, he was proceeded into town by the local fife and drum band where he made a speech from the firstfloor window of O’Donovan’s Hotel to the people of the town. People came from all the neighboring towns for this special occasion. AMERICAN FLYING FORTRESS (1943) Some of the most interesting visitors to this hotel were the crew of a US Air Force Boeing B-17f25-DL Fortress S 42-3090 U 334/95BG named T’aint a Bird - an American flying fortress which force landed a mile from Clonakilty on April 7th, 1943. The plane was on its way from Africa to England when it strayed off course and ended up hovering over Clonakilty very low on fuel, eventually carrying out a forced landing on White’s Marsh between the mainland and the island of Inchydoney. The crew of ten passengers and a pet monkey landed safely. The crew were accompanied to O’Donovan’s Hotel by the local Defense Force. They remained there for three days, the hotel taking on a carnival atmosphere in war-time, rationed Clonakilty.

Eventually a mobile runway was laid and the plane took off for England via Shannon on May 2nd, 1943, leaving behind their monkey Tojo. When Tojo died he was buried in the yard of the hotel where the Function Room now stands, with full military honors. On Sunday, 17th July, 1988, the Warplane Research Group of Ireland erected a plaque to commemorate the landing of Taint-a-Bird. It was unveiled by Eddie Collins of Inchydoney who was the first to greet the crew in 1943. Tel: + 353 23 88 33250 www.odonovanshotel.com 113


Glengarriff PARK HOTEL

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f ever there was a place to experience authentic Irish hospitality and to feel the warmth of a hundred thousand welcomes, West Cork has it all. The awe-inspiring landscapes is a nature lover’s dream. Tucked away in the northernmost corner of Bantry Bay is Glengarriff (Gleann Garbh), a 19th-century village at the start of the Ring of Beara. And at the very heart of the village is a real home away from home, the Glengarriff Park Hotel. Glengarriff is a village of approximately 800 people but its numbers swell in the summer months as visitors discovering the Beara Peninsular and the Wild Atlantic Way stop by this natural meeting place and enjoy its many charms. The Glengarriff Park Hotel sits at the entrance to the Blue Pool Park and Garnish Island. With nature trails, kayaking excursions, ferry trips and 114

the seal colony, there is so much to see and do in the immediate vicinity. This newly renovated hotel offers guests the unique opportunity to discover the beautiful countryside then come back to relax and unwind. With a range of luxurious bedrooms, superior dining in The Park Bistro or drinks with the locals in the warm, friendly Mac Carthy’s Bar, craic meets charm in glorious surroundings. Glengarriff is also noted for the variety of plants and marine life that flourish here due to the warmth of the gulf stream. Needless to say, seafood is a specialty as is a welcoming pint either before dinner or after a great day exploring. At Glengarriff Park Hotel a warm, friendly welcome and professional staff await your arrival. Arrive as guests, leave as friends. You’ll wish your vacation would never end. www.glengarriffpark.com


Weavers OF IRELAND PAYING HOMAGE TO THE TRADITION & CRAFT OF IRISH WEAVING.

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estled in the heart of the picturesque village of Glengarriff, as well as the bustling seaside town of Kinsale in West Cork, awaits an authentic Irish shopping experience where you can witness first-hand the unique beauty and heritage of the most acclaimed Irish Weavers, all under one roof. Weavers of Ireland, as the name suggests, celebrates the rich and vibrant landscape of traditional and contemporary woven craftsmanship in Ireland, from classic household names such as Avoca and Foxford Woollen Mills to other firm Irish favourites like Branigan and Muckross Weavers, amongst many more.

The authentic Weaving Stores pay homage to the old traditions within the craft, whilst also rejoicing in the new. Just like the Master Irish Weavers before them, they approve only the best with their certified seal of approval so that from the weaving loom to your home, you can experience the highest quality of product and service.

For centuries, the craft of spinning and weaving has been an art form upon which empires have been built, economies have thrived, and livelihoods have been designed. Essentially it is a craft that is woven into the very fabric of our being. Weaving materials such as linen, cotton, silk and wool are textiles which have enjoyed a long and colourful history and whose respective journeys have evolved through the centuries to become a fundamental part of our everyday lives.

Garments are available in a combination of premium yarns such as Irish wool, lambswool, cashmere, mohair and alpaca as well as classic Irish tweed. Choose from an array of specialist items such as woven hats, scarves, stoles, capes and throws in a rainbow of colours, all inspired by the breath-taking and beautiful Irish countryside and indeed the spectacular coastal views of West Cork – a must-have and memorable memento from your trip to the Emerald Isle.

The premium Irish shopping brand also boasts a free world-wide shipping service when you spend €100 or more in-store, which means you can shop to your heart’s content without having to worry about how to fit everything into your suitcase. As well as Weavers of Ireland in Glengarriff and Kinsale, there are additional outlets in the towns of Killarney and Kenmare in nearby Co. Kerry. www.weaversofireland.com 115


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Festivals OF FUN S

et amongst the spectacular landscape of the Wild Atlantic Way, Bantry has become a festival destination town, hosting three of Ireland’s top arts festivals. Each year, visitors descend on the West Cork town from as far afield as Dubai, Australia and the USA for three weeks of world-class musicmaking and literature. West Cork Music’s flagship festival is the ten-day West Cork Chamber Music Festival in late June. More than one hundred international musicians perform concerts from morning to late night in Bantry House, St Brendan’s Church and other venues around this historic town. Favorite pieces are performed alongside contemporary, lesserknown works and the festival is internationallyrenowned for its exciting and challenging programming. As well as the central programme of concerts, there are free fringe events and pop-up performances in unique venues in the region, including Whiddy and Garnish Islands. The West Cork Literary Festival follows and presents a much-admired programme of readings, workshops, keynote speeches, panel discussions, children’s events and much more. A festival swim, walk and letter café are just some

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of the festival’s interesting events. At the heart of the festival is the programme of five-day writing workshops. These include novel writing, short story writing, poetry, journalism, song writing, teenage writers and many more. Among the stellar cast of writers and public figures who have attended the festival in recent years are Michael Palin, Gloria Steinem, Graham Norton, Annie Proulx, Michael Morpurgo, John Banville, Michael Parkinson, Margaret Drabble and many more. The third of West Cork Music’s three festivals is Masters of Tradition in August. This is curated by the popular County Clare fiddler Martin Hayes, who opens and closes the festival each year. Evening concerts in St Brendan’s Church and Bantry House have now been joined by daytime events such as secret concerts on Whiddy Island and Future Forests Garden Centre, and talks in Bantry’s most popular bar, Ma Murphy’s. Among those who have performed at Masters of Tradition are Ricky Skaggs, Christy Moore, David Whyte, Steve Cooney, Seamus Begley and many more. West Cork Music’s three festivals are generously supported by the Arts Council of Ireland and Failte Ireland. www.westcorkmusic.ie


SOUTHERN STARS | WEST CORK

WEST CORK CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL 2019

BANTRY, CO. CORK / 28 JUNE - 7 JULY

For updates visit

www.westcorkmusic.ie Image: Viviane Hagner [Photo: Koelln]

WEST CORK LITERARY FESTIVAL

WEST CORK LITERARY FESTIVA ORK LITERARY FESTIVAL Bantry, Co. Cork Friday 12 – Friday 19 July 2019

readings / workshops / seminars / children’s events

www.westcorkliteraryfestival.ie

21 – 25 AUGUST 2019 BANTRY, CO. CORK

ARTISTIC DIRE CTOR

MARTIN HAYE

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www.westcorkmusic.ie 117


Island Accommodation & Discovery

WHERE TIME STANDS STILL Join us for our world famous sing songs with live music seven nights a week! Full bar food and restaurant menus available daily Open 7 days a week from 10.30am

At the most southerly point of Ireland’s beautiful Wild Atlantic Way, Kathy and Mike O’Connor welcome guests at Sherkin North Shore, where they can accommodate up to 42 guests and provide delicious and nutritious meals. The centre provides an ideal coastal location for trainings in yoga, art, mindfulness, team building, and a full range of group activities. Located off Baltimore in West Cork, on beautiful Sherkin Island, North Shore provides an excellent opportunity for island living and island learning. Sherkin Island, off Baltimore, Co. Cork Phone: +353 (0) 87 618 5368 E-mail: kathy@sherkinnorthshore.com www.sherkinnorthshore.com /sherkinnorthshore

/sherkin_north_shore/

For bookings call

(061) 364 861 /SherkinNShore

find us on facebook

The Jolly Roger

Sherkin North Shore 1/4.indd 1

Bunratty, Co. Clare www.durtynellys.ie

@durtynellys_ie

06/09/2018 10:51

Capturing the true essence of an ‘Irish Welcome’ with its friendly atmosphere and welcoming staff - The Jolly Roger is a must see when in Cork! Serving delicious food all day with an emphasis on fresh, natural and local ingredients. • Weekend music sessions! • Soak in the ambience of the sunroom created by local artwork and large south facing windows which elegantly frame the view of the Baltimore Cliffs and amazing ocean views.

Sherkin Island, Co Cork Á+353 28 20662 +353 85 141 2503

/thejollyroger


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West Cork BEACONS

WHILE THE DESERTED BEACHES OF WEST CORK ARE ALWAYS A BIG DRAW, THE TOWNS AND VILLAGES ARE ESPECIALLY INVITING.

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altimore is the main village in the parish of Rathmore and the Islands and is the southernmost parish in Ireland. A popular summer destination, Baltimore is a busy fishing port and a quintessentially pretty Irish town.

The navigational beacon at the entrance to the harbor is the image most often associated with the area. This white-painted stone beacon was built at the order of the British government following the 1798 Rebellion as part of a series 119


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of lighthouses and beacons dotted around the Irish coast, forming a warning system. Positioned high above the channel between the mainland and Sherkin Island, the Baltimore Beacon is visible from near and far and visitors who make the ascent are rewarded with spectacular views towards Sherkin, Cape Clear, the harbor and the mouth of the Ilen River. The waters off Baltimore are ideal for sea life and this is the perfect environment to see whales, dolphins, porpoise, basking shark, seals and a wide variety of seabirds. You can take to the water with family run Baltimore Sea Safari who introduce passengers to the outstanding beauty of the West Cork coastline while looking out for the wildlife that may be in the area. Tours take visitors around the beautiful islands and headlands of West Cork, stopping at Cape Clear Island, affording visitors an insight into the unique lifestyle of the islanders of Roaring Water Bay. Fresh air, open waters and a fabulous time is guaranteed. Baltimore is bounded in the west by the island 120

of Sherkin, or Inis Arcáin and it is here you can take to the islands by boat, weather permitting. One of Carbery’s Hundred Isles, Sherkin is the ancestral home of the O’Driscoll clan whose castle lies just above the pier. Nearby you can also roam the ruins of a 15th century Franciscan abbey. The island lures artists, ecologists, walkers and musicians to its beautiful shores and tranquil setting where you can wander along laneways past banks of red fuchsia, bright orange montbretia and rocky fields hemmed in by dry stone walls. Sherkin has an automated maintained by locals that is situated Point and dates back to 1835. The marks the southern entrance to Harbor and the Baltimore Beacon.

lighthouse at Barrack lighthouse Baltimore

Sherkin buzzes with activity during the summer months and locals are renowned for their warmth and hospitality. Come to hear great live traditional music or enjoy the activities of the Sherkin Family Regatta, a big splash in the island’s social calendar.

“I still feel like this day was a dream. I am so grateful to everyone who made it so special. Getting married in Ireland was the most amazing experience in the world and the best day of my life.”


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Sherkin’s three sandy beaches make great secluded swimming areas and walking along the shore you may see seals, otters, schools of dolphins or the porpoises which gave the island

its name. A number of artists live on the island and Sherkin is unique in running a Fine Arts Degree Course.

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ISLAND LIFE | SHERKIN

Island of THE ARTS

WEST CORK ISLANDS DEVELOPMENT OFFICER AISLING MORAN DESCRIBES SHERKIN ISLAND, KNOWN AS THE ISLAND OF THE ARTS.

“S

herkin is an amazing place. Many residents on the island make an income from painting, arts, crafts or knitting – we have jewelers, basket-weavers, poets, musicians and writers. The creativity rubs off on everyone and permeates the air; it’s a phenomenal thing.” And it’s the kind of place where anything might happen. One day for example, as Aisling looked out of her office window, she spotted a local fisherman driving past in his van. Nothing unusual in that, except for the fact that he was carrying a wickerwork coffin that the man had woven himself. Aisling later discovered that a

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group of people had come to the island to learn how to make wicker coffins. Sherkin is a magnet of creativity and it seems to rub off on everyone, even those that want to weave their own coffins! Lying in Roaring Water Bay on the south west coast of Ireland the island is only 6 km2 with narrow roads and little traffic, an ideal getaway from the fast-paced life on the mainland. The journey to Sherkin begins in the small fishing village of Baltimore, where visitors can watch the harbor comings and goings from restaurants and pubs located in the square.


ISLAND LIFE | SHERKIN

Once the big red ferry moors along the pier it is time to begin the journey across the bay. The ferry passes underneath the iconic Beacon and crosses the mouth of the harbor with a birds-eye view of Sherkin Lighthouse.

Visitors are treated to a sensory overload of rich grassy laneways, wildflowers, birdlife and butterflies, dolphins and seals and even whales can be seen from some of the stunning vistas.

As you near the island, the 15th century Franciscan Friar comes into view. This historic building was once the stronghold of the O’Driscoll Clan. However, a ‘discrepancy’ over Portuguese wine with Waterford pirates saw the Friary and Dun na Long Castle located on the Island burnt by the end of the 15th century. Nowadays visitors can enjoy the vast array of flora and fauna on the island. Sherkin is renowned for its biodiversity on land and in her surrounding waters. Visitors are treated to a sensory overload of rich grassy laneways, wildflowers, birdlife and butterflies all to be spotted on Sherkin. Dolphins and seals and even whales are frequently seen from some of the stunning vistas along the walking routes. The waters surrounding Sherkin are internationally recognized as one of the foremost locations for spotting, Humpbacks, Blue fin, and Minke whales to name but a few! Four walking routes are mapped on the island taking you past our Green Coast Beach. Silver Strand is a jewel in the middle of the island. A pristine sandy beach with safe waters overlooking the neighboring island, ideal for swimming and relaxing. In the summer months you have a choice of dining options from traditional fish and chips to vegan specialties, but just remember to double check these are open in the off season. Surrounded by such natural beauty, peace and tranquility it is no wonder that Sherkin has become a mecca for artists. Many of the permanent residents make their living from producing and selling art works. This community of renowned Irish artists has gained Sherkin the reputation of Island of the Arts. Throughout the year there are open studios, art classes, exhibitions, workshops, theatre performances, singing workshops and music festivals.

Sherkin is ideal for those looking to get away and reconnect with the natural world. Witness firsthand the daily joys of island life from the farmers, fishermen, ferrymen, and many other islanders living and working full time on Sherkin It is a wonderful place to explore independently or meet up with islanders to view art, learn a new skill or simply enjoy some good food and music. For more information sherkinisland.ie.

on

Sherkin

visit

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Majella O’Neill Collins Artist, Sherkin Island, West Cork

“The sea influences everything because it is so much part of our lives here on Sherkin Island. The memory, essence and unpredictability of the sea is the starting place for my work. But it’s not just about the sea, more about life and mood and place, interpreting memories and relating to different emotions and island moments in my life. Painting is like therapy for me; it frees me up and lifts my spirit.”

www.

monc.ie


TEXT | PLACE

A Dance of

THE IMAGINATION A

s one of the earliest forms of selfexpression, painting is a visual dance of the imagination.

relationship with the paint itself.

Inspiration is in no short supply on Sherkin Island where Majella O’Neill Collins lives and works, just off the West Cork coast. Her work relates directly to her experience of living on an island surrounded by water where sea and land meet and defined by the ever-changing weather and light.

Majella’s way of painting is based on intuition and experimentation. She believes that painting is a means of reshaping experience of the world, of examining, formalizing and giving form to perception. Her work is rooted in her own personal history and in her own direct experience. Each set of paintings marks a particular time or stage in her life.

Majella’s work tries to make sense of what it means to live in such a remote, rural and beautiful part of the world. Although she works in a studio that overlooks the coastline and spends many hours looking at the land and sea that surround her, her paintings are not painted directly from nature. They are made in the studio where they evolve through reflection, through dealing with the illusion of three dimensions on a two-dimensional surface and through a physical and emotional

For example, her cove and inlet paintings are concerned with movement, flux and power. They swell and spill out from the confines of the canvas engulfing the viewer with a sense of vitality that comes from the sweeping mark-making and the visceral use of color. Her crossing and home paintings refer to journeys, not only the physical passage from mainland to island, but the human journey of life. Her sea paintings show a surface broken by waves and currents, by reefs and

rocky outcrops; elements that have become structures with which to explore the surface of the canvas itself. More recently, Majella has begun to take a bird’s eye view as in Flying over the Dock. The organization of the surface plays off thick paint against thin, flat areas against broken ones, and, in places, naturalistic color against distinctly non-naturalistic color. Her pier paintings are a dialogue between representation and abstraction with references to the physical structure of the pier itself, overlayered at times with sweeping marks which may indicate the thrill of ‘pier diving’ - a common summer pastime for generations of Sherkin children. Throughout, Majella’s work continues to demonstrate her keen interest in painterly concerns – in mark-marking, layering, in the sensuous textures that wet oil makes; in the drags, rubs and smudges of wet oil on canvass and in the challenges imposed by the medium itself. 125


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Come to

THE KINGDOM DISCOVER A GLORIOUS MIX OF MOODY MOUNTAINS, VIBRANT TOWNS AND A SUPERSTAR ISLAND THAT WILL TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY.

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A NATURAL ESCAPE | KERRY

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ince Queen Victoria visited Killarney over 150 years ago, its mountains, lakes and coasts have been the picture-postcard image of Ireland overseas. And while visitors may argue about their favorite towns, everyone genuflects to the perfection that is the Kerry landscape. It’s just drop-dead gorgeous. Where to begin? Killarney National Park, that’s where! Nestling between Killarney and Kenmare, these 26,000 acres of woodland, mountains and lakes are a favorite with tourists and locals alike. The area was a particularly popular spot with Queen Victoria in the 19th century and her lodging, Muckross House, still stands with all its furnishings intact. Even better these days the house and gardens have much

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to offer. You will find craftworkers onsite making traditional clothing and pottery and a traditional farm that mimics life in Ireland in the 1930’s. A ‘must do’ is Ladies View, overlooking Lough Leane for one of the most spectacular displays of Kerry’s landscape. It gets its name from Queen Victoria and her ‘ladies’ who were awestruck by the expansive view. The natural beauty of Torc Waterfall, Innisfallen Island and the dramatic MacGillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range are a breath of fresh air for the soul. And then there’s the famous Ring of Kerry touring route, that showcases some of the most spectacular sights and quirkiest towns and villages that Kerry has to offer.

The mountains, lakes and coastline around Kerry are the picturepostcard image of Ireland. And while visitors may argue about their favorite towns, everyone genuflects to the sheer perfection of this landscape.


A NATURAL ESCAPE | KERRY

A GALAXY NOT SO FAR AWAY The Wild Atlantic Way stretches 2,500km along the coast of Ireland, full of adventure and breathtaking views. At the bottom of this route, around 11 kilometers off the Kerry coast, the Skellig Islands pierce the Atlantic Ocean with their dramatic rugged beauty. The larger of the two islands, Skellig Michael, hosts an ancient monastery at its summit, which can only be reached by climbing hundreds of stone steps, hand-carved into the rock. These wondrous islands have rightly caught the attention of Hollywood, 129


Danny Mann Irish Music Pub

Welcome to Killarney’s hidden gem • Town centre location • Oversize luxurious rooms

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Killarney’s home of traditional Irish Music Come along and enjoy traditional music while savoring a hearty meal and one of our potent brews Live traditional music nightly New Street Killarney, Co Kerry.

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A NATURAL ESCAPE | KERRY

The Skellig Islands pierce the Atlantic Ocean with their dramatic rugged beauty. The larger of the two islands, Skellig Michael, hosts an ancient monastery at its summit, which can only be reached by climbing hundreds of stone steps, hand-carved into the rock.

and Skellig Michael has become a star in its own right, thanks to appearances in the Star Wars franchise. The island’s epic appearance along with the vast oceanic backdrop provide a suitably otherworldly feel – it’s not hard to imagine a Jedi Knight taking refuge here! It is possible to visit Skellig Michael – approved boat tours to or around the island depart daily during the summer months – but tours must be booked ahead and are weatherdependent. Or if you prefer to stay on dry land, take a trip to the Skellig Experience Visitor Centre in Valentia where you can enjoy films and exhibitions about this amazing place. 131


A NATURAL ESCAPE | KERRY

WHAT KERRY HAS GIVEN THE WORLD Kerry natives have made their own inimitable mark on the world. There was the famous explorer Tom Crean, known for his Antarctic exploits with Captain Robert Falcon Scott and Ernest Shackleton. When his adventuring days were done, Crean returned home and opened a pub, the South Pole Inn in the small village of Annascaul. Kerry was the birthplace of Daniel O’Connell, Ireland’s Great Liberator, as well as home to Oscar-nominated actor Michael Fassbender (a native of Killarney). 132

Every December, some of the biggest names in music make the pilgrimage to St James’ Church in Dingle to play stripped-back sets at the Other Voices gathering. Amy Winehouse, Mumford and Sons, Hozier, Steve Earle and Snow Patrol have all performed there. You’ll find a writers’ museum in Listowel that celebrates a place “where it is easier to write than not to write”, as Kerry author John B Keane liked to put it. Oh, and the county has dominated Ireland’s native sport of Gaelic football, winning too many All-Ireland Gaelic Football championships to mention.

At the delightful village of Knightstown first stop is the distinctive clock tower.


A NATURAL ESCAPE | KERRY

So, if you were wondering why this county is known around Ireland as “The Kingdom”, maybe now you understand... Kerry is a land of pure majestic beauty.

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R CELEB

IRISH

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HOME TO THE NATIONAL FOLK THEATRE OF IRELAND

IRISH MUSIC, SONG AND DANCE

f estival of f ol k

MAY-SEPTEMBER • SHOWS NIGHTLY AT 8.30PM IRISH DANCE AND SONG WORKSHOPS Join cast members from the National Folk Theatre of Ireland and learn Irish dance or song from the stage repertoire. Dedicated workshops available each week from June to September or, for groups we can accommodate bespoke workshops. Contact Boxoffice or email marketing@siamsatire.com with enquiries.

Sponsor of the National Folk Theatre’s Festival of Folk

www.siamsatire.com


SIAMSA TÍRE | KERRY

A Cultural

CELEBRATION ENJOY A CELEBRATION OF IRELAND’S BEST MUSIC, SONG AND DANCE AT SIAMSA TÍRE – THE NATIONAL FOLK THEATRE OF IRELAND

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ocated on the Wild Atlantic Way in County Kerry, Siamsa Tíre is a guaranteed Irish cultural highlight for international visitors to Ireland. As one of Ireland’s busiest theatres and arts centers, it is the home of Ireland’s only theatre company dedicated to protecting and developing original Irish traditions of music, song and dance through the National Folk Theatre of Ireland. Developed over 50 years, it presents a professional cast of performers - international champion dancers, musicians and singers from May to September. All cast members are trained in the unique Siamsa Tíre style and they perform unique productions that bring Irish traditions, culture, folklore and heritage of old to life, showcasing and celebrating the best of Irish music, song, dance and dramatic storytelling. The plush purpose built 350 seat theatre welcomes audiences from all over the world. It is a landmark in Tralee, easily recognized by its

stone walls, designed to replicate the ancient ring forts on the coast of Kerry. Visitors can choose from a range of old and new productions: Fadó Fadó, one of the first productions, is an entertaining portrayal of rural Ireland and typical family life across the four seasons 100 years ago; Oileán, a celebration of the lives of the community that lived on the Blasket Islands; Anam, a showcase of hard shoe style dance from Ireland, Canada and USA supported by traditional Irish music and song; Turas, which takes you on an enchanting journey of music, song and dance from around Ireland and a new show produced in 2018 to celebrate 50 years of performances - An Ghaoth Aniar. This production captures the spirit and inspiration of the west coast of Ireland through Irish music, song and dance as it depicts working and cultural traditions of the fishing communities, working the bogland, and it features aspects of the Irish weather, Sligo fiddle and North Kerry dance traditions.

Performers start their Siamsa Tíre training in The National Folk Theatre Training Academy from the ages of six years and upwards. They learn the longstanding traditions of south western Irish music, song and dance over six years to become part of the community cast, ensuring the long-term sustainability of the National Folk Theatre across the generations. This Academy also offers workshops allowing visitors to take part in these living Irish traditions and learn Irish songs or dances from the stage repertoire and get a glimpse backstage. From October to April, Siamsa Tíre hosts a wide range of theatre events, and its gallery spaces display the work of artists from Ireland and abroad throughout the year. Siamsa Tíre also offers a full bar including whiskey or local beer tastings.  Don’t miss a truly authentic and unforgettable traditional cultural experience in atmospheric surroundings! 135


Kenmare in Irish is ‘Neidin’ which translates to the ‘little nest’.

No name is more apt as Kenmare is nestled between majestic and protective mountains and alongside the scenic Kenmare Bay.

A swallow in a nest is the emblem for this wonderful town. Swallows return to their nest year after year, a trait we recognise in many visitors. Kenmare is a place that draws people to it and makes them want to return again and again. People from all corners of the world, live in this magical place alongside one another. We believe the diversity of cultures; love of life and the surroundings enables Kenmare to be the vibrant and warm place it is. Whether you are visiting for the first time or returning, like the swallow to your nest, you will feel as if you are coming home. Together with that feeling of ‘coming home’, there will always be - A hundred thousand welcomes, awaiting you in Kenmare.

STAY EAT DRINK SHOP EXPLORE


The Little Nest OF KENMARE

ALONG THE SOUTHERNMOST EDGE OF THE IVERAGH PENINSULA, THE RING OF KERRY SKIRTS THE PEACEFUL, SHELTERED KENMARE BAY.

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his richly wooded area, brushed by the Gulf Stream and sheltered by high mountains to the north, has an almost languorous feel. From the palms and grassy beach paths of Derrynane National Park at the mouth of the Bay, to the thick canopies of trees along the route, from the hedgerows of montbretia and rhododendrons to the green-forested islands just off shore –it’s no wonder some call this the Garden of Ireland. The pretty town of Kenmare is a small tranquil country town, famous for its gourmet food and superb accommodation set amidst breath-taking scenery in one of the most unspoilt, natural environments in Europe. It is located at the head of beautiful Kenmare Bay which stretches 50 kilometers from Kenmare out to the Atlantic

Ocean. The name is an anglicized version of Ceann Mara which translates into ‘head of the sea’ in English. The original Irish name for the town is ‘Neidin’ meaning ‘little nest’ because the town nestles amongst the surrounding mountains which are such a striking feature of the landscape. The town itself has a population of around 2,000 and retains the village feel that it has had since it was established as Ireland’s first planned town back in 1670. The historical, cultural and environmental significance of the place was officially recognized by the Irish Tourist Board in the early 1990s when it was designated a Heritage Town.

This richly wooded area, brushed by the Gulf Stream and sheltered by high mountains to the north, has an almost languorous feel.

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Kenmare town has a unique identity of vibrant colored, characterful buildings. The town is ideally situated on two famous tourist trails, The Ring of Kerry and The Ring of Beara. The Ring of Kerry is known all over the world and follows the spectacular coastline of the Iveragh Peninsula. It is one of the most dramatic scenic drives in Ireland and makes a most enjoyable day tour. Along the 175-kilometer route are picturesque towns and villages, like Sneem, Caherdaniel and Cahirciveen, an abundance of historical landmarks, sandy coves and beautiful beaches. Just south of Kenmare is the unspoilt and less commercialized Ring of Beara. This is less well-known than The Ring of Kerry but no less impressive. Its rugged beauty is beyond compare, traffic is minimal and there’s a wealth of archaeological sites and spectacular views waiting to be discovered. To the north of Kenmare is the Killarney National Park – 10,000 hectares of woodland, magical mountain scenery and the infamous Lakes of Killarney. These you’ll encounter from above as you travel the Kenmare/Killarney Road and the staggering beauty of it all will take your breath away. 138

KENMARE HERITAGE The Kenmare Heritage Centre displays information on various themes including the Nun of Kenmare, Kenmare’s history and historical sites, the effects of the famine on Kenmare Town and the landlords of Kenmare. It also houses an exhibition of Kenmare Lace and there is a model and explanation of the nearby stone circle, which is one of the largest stone circles in the south of Ireland. An integral part of the experience of the Kenmare Story is to visit the historical sites after visiting the center. The Heritage Trail map will show you at first hand some of the delights of Kenmare. All the sites are within walking distance from the center and the trail takes about 40 minutes to complete. Alternatively, you can take a guided walk strolling the quiet back streets of the town and learning all about the history of the area. Kenmare’s heritage dates back to the late 1670’s with the attempted settlement of the town by William Petty Cromwell’s physician. He had acquired vast areas of land close to Kenmare. It was later in the 1790’s that his descendant William Petty Fitzmaurice established the town with the

Kenmare is a small tranquil country town set amidst breathtaking scenery in one of the most unspoilt, natural environments in Europe.


The Killarney National Park with its 10,000 hectares of woodland, magical mountain scenery and the infamous Lakes of Killarney; its staggering beauty will take your breath away. 139


Dromquinna

Stables E STB 1949

Family owned and family run riding stables just 5km from Kenmare on Sneem Road (N70) Beautiful sea rides along the stunning Kenmare Bay and mountain rides into the hills of the Ring of Kerry at the Wild Atlantic Way. Rides from 1 up to 4 hours. Group rides and Private rides available by reservation. Beginners and Experienced equestrians welcome. For more information;

Stables +35364 6641043 Mobile +35386 1083318 dromquinnastables@hotmail.com

dromquinna-stables.com eircode: V93XCA4


KERRY | KENMARE

basic infrastructure of a bridewell, Inn, a market house, a schoolhouse and a malt house. A Roman Catholic chapel was constructed at Shelburne Street in 1799. One of the oldest buildings in the town is Shelburne Lodge, once the home of William Petty Fitzmaurice. The historical development of the town has left a significant built heritage characterized by historic street patterns unique to Kenmare with its unusual X plan in the town center and various features of architectural and historical significance. Many characters have made the town the unique gem that it is today. On the guided heritage walk your guide will tell you in more detail why people like Fr. John O’Sullivan, Sr. Mary Frances Clare and William Trench were key figures in the story of this heritage town. It has the makings of a movie for sure! A different kind of walk will appeal to foodies. Join Karen Coakley, Kenmare food blogger and TV cook for a walking food tour meeting the producers creating food in this vibrant and

thriving food destination. Guests get to sample the produce, sip some wine, taste some beer and hear the stories of the people behind the food. Kenmare Foodie Tours is born out of a love for food, Kenmare and the people behind the food, who with such an eclectic mix of backgrounds combine to make Kenmare’s food scene the thriving industry it is today. In Kenmare there is so much to explore and taste from local artisan breads and cheeses to sausages, black pudding, ice-cream and even wine and beer. The tour starts at Maison Gourmet on Henry Street and lasts 3.5 hours approximately. Not only is Kenmare a unique and desirable tourist destination in its own right with its rural beauty, style and service, but it’s also a perfectly positioned base from which to experience everything that the south west of Ireland has to offer. kenmarefoodietours@gmail.com walkingboots3@gmail.com 141


KERRY | KENMARE

A Delicate Beauty In Kenmare, in the south west corner of Ireland you will find The Kenmare Lace and Design Centre where some of Ireland’s most beautiful lace is still made today. Kenmare Needlepoint Lace (needlelace) is made with a needle and thread. This intricate lace was first made by the Poor Clare nuns in Kenmare in the early 1860’s. At a later date Kenmare Lace was further enhanced when nuns developed their own exquisite designs. This development contributed to the fame of Kenmare Lace culminating in an order for five pieces of lace for Queen Victoria. Lace was made for many other people of note including Queen Alexandra and Princess Grace of Monaco. Kenmare Lace can be seen in many museums around the world. Each summer many tourists come to The Kenmare Lace and Design Centre to buy locally made lace, lacemaking supplies and lace kits and to see the antique lace made at the Poor Clare Convent. Why not join them?

Lacemaking Demonstrations • Kenmare Lace • Limerick Lace

• Irish Crochet Lace

• Bobbin Lace

• Carrickmacross Lace

Antique Lace Displays, Workshops and Classes, Handmade locally made lace and more on sale... Kits | Books | Linen per metre | Hand-painted souvenir bobbins | Crochet hooks | Tambour hooks Meet authors of “The Lace Story”, Kenmare and other laces, Emer and Nora Finnegan.

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The Heritage Centre, The Square, Kenmare, Co. Kerry info@kenmarelace.ie 00353 87 234 6998 00353 64 66 42978 www.kenmarelace.ie 05/09/2018 13:20


KERRY | KENMARE

Places to Stay Just as The Shelbourne is the grand old dame of Dublin, The Park Hotel in Kenmare has the same sense of history and grandeur, albeit with better views and an even better spa. This Victorian landmark was built in 1897 as a stopover for railway passengers. Walking the corridors of the hotel past imposing armoires and stained glass, feels like a journey through history. For all that, The Park is a vibrant place with wonderful facilities. The indulgent SAMAS spa provides customized spa and relaxation treatments and therapies, and guests can exercise in the modern gym with tai chi classes in the Yoga Pavilion. There is a glass-walled sauna, monsoon showers, a lap pool and a glorious infinity pool looking out over woodlands. The Brennan brothers who own and run the hotel see The Park as a gracious home that is yours to enjoy, and enjoy it you will, whether you stay here for a few days or simply visit for afternoon tea or evening dinner in the awardwinning restaurant. The Park Hotel is a rare find where the decadence of the past is married with the modernism of today. With its splendid views over the glistening waters of Kenmare Bay, the ever-changing light of the Cork and Kerry Mountains, the adjoining 18-hole golf course, garden walks and the pretty heritage town of Kenmare on your doorstep, what more could you want? The Park Hotel Kenmare is a little Irish magic in the Kingdom of Kerry. 143


THE HEART OF SOUTH KERRY TEXT | PLACE

KENMARE escape to living

Kenmare is a place of ethereal beauty that nourishes the soul. Artists of all mediums have been drawn to live in this area for decades. Craftsmen who work with gold and silver, lace and wood. Photographers, musicians, sculptors and painters are inspired every day by the ever-changing beauty of the landscape. Kenmare encourages you to take a moment and relax, soak up all the creativity that sits right on your doorstep. Or get involved with one of the amazing workshops or activities on offer and make Kenmare your muse. For the more adventurous types there are plenty of land and water activities to enjoy in Kenmare. Learn to ride a horse, don a wet suit and take to the water, cycle along the quiet roads or just take a leisurely hike along the many and varied trails. Kenmare is also a famous food destination and eating out in Kenmare is always a special experience. The highly acclaimed and award winning restaurants offer the very best of locally sourced products. It’s not just restaurants that offer the best of food, good food is a way of life in Kenmare. Talented food artisans produce a wide variety of cheeses, organic vegetables, delicious meat and fish, breads and pastries and the most scrumptious chocolates and ice cream. Kenmare wants to leave you with memories that will last a lifetime.

Kenmare’s hospitality is world renowned, whether you are visiting for the first time or you are a returning visitor, a warm welcome is guaranteed. It has been said it feels like you’re truly coming home when you stay in Kenmare. Your comfort and enjoyment are foremost in the minds of your hosts, ensuring that your visit is memorable. There is a fantastic range of quality hotels, bed & breakfasts, guest houses, glamping, camping and self-catering. Waking up to beautiful views and chatting with your hosts over breakfast starts any day with a smile.

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# KENMARE .IE

TEXT | PLACE

Kerry boasts one of only three Gold Tier Dark-Sky Reserves in the World. This means that on clear nights the sky in Kerry is simply stunning. The beautiful band of the Milky Way, the Andromeda Galaxy, star clusters and nebulas are just some of the astronomical wonders that can be seen by the naked eye. Lack of light pollution means that visitors are truly surrounded by astounding natural beauty in the land, the sea and the sky.

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Connect directly to Kerry Airport, the gateway airport for Ireland's

Wild Atlantic Way.

Passengers can check-in at Kerry Airport for New York, Chicago, Boston, Orlando, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Hartford Connecticut, Newark, Miami, or Toronto with Aer Lingus and receive an onward boarding pass from Dublin. A seamless connection to the USA and Canada direct from Kerry Airport by availing of the Dublin pre-clearance service. Bags will automatically be transferred, allowing commuters time to complete emigration checks at Dublin Airport.

Visit www.aerlingus.com


KERRY | WATERVILLE

A Watery

WONDERLAND WATERVILLE IS A PICTURESQUE SEASIDE TOWN OVERLOOKING STUNNING BALLINSKELLIGS BAY. UNIQUELY IT IS ALSO NESTLED ON THE BEAUTIFUL LAKE CURRANE, RENOWNED FOR SOME OF THE BEST ANGLING IN EUROPE.

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aterville and Ballinskelligs Bay play an important part in the mythology of ancient Ireland. According to the Book of Invasions written about 1000 AD, Cessair, the granddaughter of Noah, landed in Ballinskelligs Bay and became Ireland’s first invader. Here too, the last of the mythical invaders, the Milesians, settled in 700 BC and reportedly left behind many of the archaeological sites found in the area.

Subsequent invaders arrived in the form of the British Empire who had a penchant for golf, however, the sport really took hold in the 1880’s with the men who arrived to work on the first transatlantic cable relaying messages between North America and Europe. Hundreds of technicians and workers landed in these remote parts to build and man the cable stations, and as sport they played a crude form of golf, generally played in winter when the grasses died down. 147


KERRY | WATERVILLE

For many, golf is synonymous with Waterville and now with Robert Trent Jones Jnr’s redesign of Hogs Head, Waterville could become a major international golf destination. The new owners of Hogs Head are Americans Bryan Marsal and his partner Tony Alvarez, who run a global consulting firm based in New York. Marsal is excited about Waterville describing it as “a charming, charming community.” He says that with two world-class golf courses, golfers have the opportunity to do a combination of things with flights into Cork or Shannon where golfers can be taken to Kerry by vans or choppers, depending on what they are prepared to pay. “When there, I believe the American golfer will stay, playing two rounds at Hogs Head and one to two rounds at Waterville. Then they could go and play Ballybunion, Dooks or Tralee, or maybe the Old Head.” 148

While the new course will attract much attention, golf at Waterville is a mystical experience – the beauty of classic links land, surrounded by the sea, yet forever challenged and shaped by the elements. Over 100 years old, Waterville is rated among the top 5 courses in Ireland and the top 20 links courses in the world. Stay in style at Waterville House, a four star, 18th century manor house. The property features the natural beauty of a forty-acre estate on the Atlantic and the most famous sea trout and salmon fishery in Ireland. Aside from its comfort and charm, Waterville House has 12 bedrooms en-suite, sauna, steam room, health facility with massage room, billiard room and private golf practice facility. Guests of Waterville House enjoy preferential tee times and access to fishing in private lakes and rivers including Lough Currane.


KERRY | WATERVILLE

UP IN ARMS Another great golf story revolves around a different set of greats. Twenty years ago, three Americans, an Australian and what appears to be half the town’s population were all living it up in the bar of the Butler Arms Hotel. The four visitors were golfers, but not your ordinary golfers. US Open champion Payne Stewart was belting out a tune on his harmonica as fellow major winner Lee Janzen, world number one David Duval and Aussie star Stuart Appleby laughed and sang along. The pub was full to the brim so Stewart jumped over the bar and did a shift as guest barman. Better still, he didn’t take in any cash, “The drinks are on me!” he yelled.

Visitors fall in love with Waterville for a great many reasons. With lake, river, shore and sea excursions to choose from, the town has huge appeal.

By the time he left, Stewart was telling people that he wanted to be the mayor of Waterville. We don’t have a mayor, the locals told him, but being captain of the golf club is a much bigger deal, so they made him captain that season. Tragically, Payne Stewart lost his life in a plane crash just a few months later but his memory lives on in Waterville where a bronze statue was erected in his memory by the many friends he made on those short trips. Ireland is like that. Casual meetings lead to lifelong friendships. Quiet drinks in the pub turn into parties, one-off golf trips become annual pilgrimages. Take the US PGA champion Keegan Bradley, whose auntie Pat Bradley is a Hall of Fame star with close ties to County Cork. He made the trip with his family when he was a child. Years later, after making friends with Rory McIlroy, Pádraig Harrington and Graeme McDowell, he was back. “My three uncles – my dad being one of them – played in this tournament called the Three Brothers in Youghal in County Cork,” Bradley said of his Irish connections. “Hundreds of people told me, ‘Welcome home’, which gives me chills almost every time they say it. It’s just been a phenomenal experience.” HOOK LINE & SINKER Visitors fall in love with Waterville for a great many reasons. With lake, river, shore and deepsea angling to choose from, the town holds a huge appeal. Add to that stunning scenery, 149


The lobster is steeped in history built over 57 years ago and is synonymous with the ring of Kerry. The famous giant Lobster holding a pint of Guinness can’t be missed and a warm welcome, good craic and award-winning food awaits you! Main Street • Waterville • Ring of Kerry • Ireland • T. +353 (0)66 9474629

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Tech Amergin Arts and Culture Centre brings Arts and Culture to South Kerry and beyond with a first class line up of Award Winning Singers, Songwriters, Playwrights, Traditional Musicians, Pantomime and more. We regularly schedule ‘Culture Cinema’ nights and ‘Afternoon at the Movies’ in conjunction with Access Cinema Dublin. ‘Culture Cinema’ screenings takes place on the last Thursday of every month at 8pm. ‘Afternoon at the Movies’ takes place on the first Wednesday of the month at 2pm. An array of award winning Independent movies are shown within both programmes. We are proud to say that we also have a unique Exhibition space where national and international Artists display their work. Our permanent exhibition tells The Story of Waterville Cable Station through a series of interpretative panels. Alongside this, Tech Amergin, under the aegis of Kerry Education and Training Board (Kerry ETB) organises a wide and varied range of courses for the local community.

Tech Amergin Community Education & Arts Centre Waterville Co. Kerry T: +353-66-9478956 F: +353-66-9478955 E: admin@techamergin.com W: www.techamergin.com www.facebook.com/techamergin twitter.com/tech_amergin


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excellent accommodation, quality restaurants and friendly pubs, and what more could you ask for? Waterville is the perfect base for those in pursuit of freshwater game fishing or sea fishing. With countless lakes and rivers, which are noted for their Atlantic salmon, sea trout and brown trout, as well as large storm beaches, rocky shorelines and an abundance of deep-sea marks, your biggest challenge may be choosing where to fish. When it comes to fresh-water angling, Lough Currane is the main lake in a catchment of six lakes and nestles between the mountains and western Atlantic seashore. It’s famous for its large sea trout which can exceed 10lbs. Boosting the large stocks of these migratory fish, it gets runs of large spring salmon and grilse every year. These enter the system of lakes and

rivers from as early as January. The Upper Waterville Lakes, which are set in splendid scenery, also offer excellent brown trout fishing with sea trout and salmon also a feature. As for shore angling, you’ll be spoiled for choice as there is always a sheltered mark available, regardless of the wind direction, along Kerry’s magnificent coastline. Bass, flounder, wrasse and pollack are the main quarry with saltwater fly-fishing for bass, mullet and pollack also a possibility.

Golf at Waterville is a mystical experience – the beauty of classic links land, surrounded by the sea, yet forever challenged and shaped by the elements.

With a well-developed deep-sea charter fleet within 30 minutes’ drive of Waterville, deep-sea angling is also popular. Numerous experienced skippers have boats for hire and will take you out to catch conger, ling, cod, skate, bullhuss, spurdog and blue shark. And the man-made facilities in and around 151


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Waterville are just as good as the natural ones. Visitors can expect friendly accommodation, bait and tackle shops, as well as excellent eateries and vibrant pubs to complete the picture of an excellent all-round destination. Speaking of good all-rounders, it’s always a good sign to find a place where the locals go – like what do they know?! Well, the Lobster Bar 152

is steeped in history and is synonymous with the ring of Kerry. The famous giant Lobster holding a pint of Guinness can’t be missed and a warm welcome, good craic and award-winning food awaits. Ideal for families, specialties include freshly caught seafood and locally sourced Irish beef and lamb. Hearty fare in a friendly atmosphere, you can’t go wrong.


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SEA SYNERGY Discover what lies beneath the waters at Sea Synergy Marine Exhibition on whales, dolphins, sharks, turtles and much more. Touch pools with live rocky shore animals and live animals in the tanks. Sea Synergy Marine Awareness and Activity Centre offers an exhibition on the marine life of Ireland. See and touch live animals in tanks and learn about marine biodiversity and conservation through interactive exhibits. There are weekly talks by a marine biologist on whales and dolphins, sharks and much more. A resident marine biologist offers fun marine awareness workshops for both children and adults to discover which animals live on local beaches. Other activities like guided beach walks, snorkeling, marine eco tours, fishing or trips to Skelligs can be organized.

Historically known as An Coirean (little cauldron), the town is sited on a narrow isthmus with Lough Currane to the east and Ballinskelligs Bay to the west. The Butler family built a house here in the 18th century. They named the estate Waterville.

An Tigin Craft Shop is located in a beautiful stone building that is steeped in history and is situated midway on Waterville’s Promenade. An Tigin sells quality Irish Gifts, Knitwear, Pottery, Glassware, Jewellery, Jack Murphy Outdoor Wear and Donegal Handknits

Main st, Waterville, Co. Kerry. Á (066) 947 4106 ¦ colettehillis@yahoo.ie

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WATERVILLE HOUSE AND GOLF LINKS Waterville Golf Links is a championship links rated 10th in Golf World “Top 100 in Britain and Ireland”. It is the #1 course in the Republic of Ireland whose membership includes, among players, Tiger Woods and Mark O’ Meara. Waterville hosted the 2014 Irish Seniors Amateur and, as in the years past, it is the favorite links for US Tour players before the British Open.

CONTACT 353 (0)66-9474102 info@watervillegolflinks.ie www.watervillegolflinks.ie

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Brookhaven House Bed & Breakfast � � � � �

Welcome to Brookhaven Luxury 5-star Bed & Breakfast Accommodation. Brookhaven is a purpose built, family run, Irish Tourist Board approved B&B situated on the internationally renowned Ring of Kerry in the South West corner of Ireland. Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and Waterville Championship Golf Course, Brookhaven House is also within easy reach of other championship Golf courses in Killarney, Tralee and Ballybunion. We also offer luxury self-catering accommodation at Pax House; a large 4 bedroom, detached cottage ideally located in beautiful coastal setting and just a short walk from the seaside village of Waterville Brookhaven House Bed & Breakfast & Self Catering Accommodation, Waterville, Co Kerry +353 66 947 4431

The Georgian Manor is a 18th century manor house that sits on a narrow isthmus facing the wild Atlantic with beautiful Lough Currane on its eastern perimeter. Aside from its comfort and charm, the four star residence has 13 bedrooms and a private Fazio designed practice facility. Guests enjoy preferential tee times and access to fishing the famous Butler’s Pool and private rivers and lakes.

info@brookhavenhouse@gmail.com

www.brookhavenhouse.com


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A SPECIAL BREW Tigh Bhric (Brick’s Pub) on the Slea Head Drive is a local landmark, well known for its fine pints, good food and spontaneous music sessions. The pub lies seven miles west of Dingle Town on the road to Ballyferriter, sandwiched between Brandon Mountain and Márthain Hill in the West Kerry Gaeltacht.

brewery in Ireland. Here, Adrienne Heslin enjoys the accidental pleasure of being the first woman in Ireland to brew beer in her own pub.

Since 2008 Brick’s pub has also been home to the West Kerry Brewery, a small microbrewery making traditional beers. The first of its kind in Kerry since the 1800’s, it is the most westerly

Tours can be arranged by contacting the pub or brewery in advance and you can even stay here if you wish in lovely traditional rooms with pretty brass beds.

The emphasis is on low volume quality beers, conditioned and unfiltered. The beers are brewed using a water well located 150 feet below the brewery, together with Irish grain and fresh yeast.

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An Artist's Paradise DEAFENING SILENCE IN THE WILDS OF DONEGAL, DOLPHINS IN DINGLE, MUSIC IN DOOLIN… PHILOSOPHERS, ARTISTS AND WRITERS TELL OF PLACES THAT QUICKEN THEIR CREATIVE PULSE.

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rtist and photographer Sean Óg decided to visit Valentia to mark the end of some professional and personal journeys. The route he took was an integral part of the experience: a series of trains, a ferry and a touring bicycle carrying panniers stuffed with notebooks, clothes and tins of beans. A challenging cycle later, an unmarked track led to Goirtín

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Cottage. It overlooks a coastal inlet and has no neighboring houses or nearby road. Being cocooned within the cottage’s four-foot-thick walls provided the ultimate haven for reflection without distraction. Valentia Island is the personification of Mother Nature: the golden eagle that regularly took


flight just feet from the front door, the deafening silence at the foot of Geoakun Mountain, and the perfection of the rugged rocks at Glanleam beach. Creative juices flowed, and a sense of privilege, heartfelt respect and almost penitence for being human manifested themselves in his work. Kerry, he declared “forces you to connect not only with the outer landscape, but with your inner self. You may be getting back to nature, but you’re also being tugged within to places of pure joy, and yes, pure inspiration.”

“Ireland is like that,” he says. “You find a part that is so perfect, so complete, that has everything you could possibly need, that the rest of the world fades and recedes until there is only this village and these beaches.” Two of Ireland’s best-known painters are forever entwined with images of Ireland’s west - Paul Henry and Jack B Yeats. Since the early 1900s, their paintings have greatly influenced perceptions of life along this coast, both at home and overseas. Today, as sure as the waves lap these shores, this landscape remains a continual influence

on artists. So much so, that many of the country’s foremost creators have made their homes here, at their inspiration’s very source. Not only are these artists inspired by the landscape, but they use it in very tactile ways. Its stories and history, its raw materials and living creatures all feature, breaking away from the conventions of traditional art. All along the Wild Atlantic Way, you’ll find art spaces with a reputation for showing really interesting work. As the Irish say, make the journey with ‘a turn in your head’ - take it slow and savor every moment as you go. 157


Landscapes & Seascapes painted on canvas & slate in various sizes By local artist Leo Quinlan +353 (0) 86 2505046

leo@leoquinlan.com

wwwlqart.ie


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he landscape of Waterville in southwest Kerry verges on a dreamscape with one local wit maintaining that it was sculptured by the Gods for the palette of local professional painter Leo Quinlan.

Visitors from Ireland and overseas are drawn to Quinlan’s place of work to view and invariably purchase some of his mesmerizing paintings which generally depict landscapes and seascapes from the south west of Ireland.

Remember the wild and unspoiled Irish countryside which formed the backdrop to The Quiet Man and Ryan’s Daughter? Now you’ve got an idea where Quinlan bases himself.

Originally from the city of Galway, but a visitor since birth to Hogs Head where his father was born, Quinlan the painter is blossoming in the spring of his painting career and in the autumn of his years. Incredibly, he didn’t acknowledge his own latent talent for painting until he was 37, however, encouraged by an artist friend he worked with at the European Commission, he eventually faced the truth only to put his artist self on the back-burner for a long period as he played the role of husband, father and army officer to the best of his ability.

Since deciding earnestly six years ago to devote himself full-time to producing original landscapes, abstracts, prints on slates (quarried locally) and canvas, Quinlan’s work has made him the talk of the picture postcard village as well as much further afield (USA, Japan, Mexico and Union Island, for example). In fact, his sales book details buyers from 58 different countries. Quinlan’s adopted home bestrides the Ring of Kerry. Charlie Chaplin found it a wondrous retreat and often made a beeline for Waterville while on vacation. It’s a famous angling center and is also home to the world-renowned Waterville Golf Links and the new Hogs Head Golf Club. To the list of reasons why Waterville is a must-see piece of Ireland, you can add Quinlan’s Art Gallery. Located just about a decent nine-iron from the shore of the Atlantic Ocean, LQ Art Gallery is as cozy and homely as it is inviting and easy on the eye. Visitors can be sure of a mighty welcome as well as the most glorious views. The Gallery looks out onto Hogs Head and Bolus Head which pockmark the beautiful Ballinskelligs Bay.

“I have only been painting full-time for six years but I feel extremely lucky,” explains husband of Sheila and father of eight. “I am lucky to have a God-given gift but I work hard at it. I think it was Lee Trevino, the famous American golfer, who said that the more he practiced the luckier he got. Well, this is the same with me. It is also a matter of “brush Mileage” and the more I paint the better I become and the more people like my paintings.” Quinlan confesses he’s an ordinary Joe Soap with a pencil but he is positively emboldened with a feathery paintbrush. He paints by instinct, he paints fast and he is totally energized by a one-time hobby that has since become a lucrative profession.

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A NATURAL COMMUNICATOR A retired Commandant (Major) in the Irish Army, Quinlan has the capacity to talk for Ireland. Not only does he possess the gift of the gab, he also boasts decades of experience of interacting with many nationalities from his career in the Irish Army (1962-1987) during which time he served with US Army Officers on United Nations missions in the Middle East, and thereafter, a near 25 year stint with the European Commission which saw him work in some 46 countries. As a young cadet he formed part of the guard of honor in 1963 at the graveside of President JF Kennedy; standing tall alongside such luminaries as President Charles De Gaulle (France) and Prince Philip (England). It was fitting that in 2013, Quinlan and ten of his then Irish Cadet School colleagues were honored for their role in JFK’s burial ceremony by the authorities at Arlington Cemetery. He says he is blessed to have inherited DNA from his grandfather and great grandfather who could turn their hands to anything. His Irish army hero, south Kerry-born father Pat comes in for some kudos too. As a young man Quinlan senior made a name for himself as an athlete and gymnast but he was best known as the Irish Army Commandant who led a Company of Irish soldiers which defended the post at Jadotville in the Congo from sustained attack by troops and mercenaries loyal to the Katangese prime minister Moise Tshombe during the United Nations’ 1961 Congo intervention. A film based on the siege entitled ‘The Siege of Jadotville’, was made in 2016 with Jamie Dornan, Irish star of Fifty Shades of Grey playing Commandant Quinlan. As a former soldier himself, one wonders is there a correlation between his days in a uniform and these days when pastels and paints are his weapons of choice? “I believe that there are quite a lot of people who have served in the military who have proven themselves to be very good artists of different kinds, whether that is in the creative arts or whatever. Certainly, one’s creativity doesn’t come to a halt when you enlist in the armed forces.

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” So, an artist might make for a loyal and surefooted comrade in the trenches if the call to go ‘over the top’ was heard? “Well, I do think that you need to be brave as an artist; you need to have courage and go with your gut feeling and put your work on show. You’ll have your critics. You might be criticized for the colors you use, a new palette but, for my part, I don’t dwell on things too long. I paint from instinct and if I break lots of rules so be it. An artist has to sometimes take a leap of faith in the belief that he or she is making the right choice.” Quizzed about a reputed similarity between his style and that of the internationally renowned painter Paul Henry, the naturalborn Galwayman is content to say that he puts his heart and soul into his own work and tries to convey as best he can the mood, atmosphere and theme surrounding his work. Nothing more, nothing less. “I can’t honestly say that I could describe any of my work as being anything like any other artist I know,” Quinlan opines. “I don’t dwell on my work and I tend to break a lot of rules in painting. I like it when people like my work and if I’m able to convey a certain mood and atmosphere – the light shimmering on the sea for instance - and they realize that, then that makes me happy. “Sometimes those viewing my work say they can almost feel as if they’re next to the boat I’ve just painted or that they can almost touch the sheep on the hillside or the farmhouse that I’ve added is so real. But if they see a similarity between my work and someone else, well that is just purely co-incidental.” For six months of the year, Waterville’s popular painter can invariably be seen painting from a perch on the side of a hill that lies just beside where the tourist-laden buses pull up in the village. He normally paints for six hours a day. On occasions, he instructs local children in the art he has clearly fallen in love with. He loves it when fellow artists buy something from him; he loves it nearly more than the craic he has with the tourists that flock to his gallery. Check out www.lqart.ie for the paintings and check out Leo in person for the banter.


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From Nature TO CANVAS

MADELEINE WEBER IS A GERMAN-BORN PHOTOGRAPHER AND ARTIST, WHOSE ABILITY TO CAPTURE THE MAGIC OF LIGHT AND NATURE ENABLES HER TO CREATE A UNIQUE COLLECTION OF IRISH LANDSCAPE AND SEASCAPE PHOTOGRAPHS AND PAINTINGS.

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er main inspiration and motivation lie in the many forms of beauty offered by nature, which she finds in abundance in the South West of Ireland along the Wild Atlantic Way coastline, where she has lived for the past 12 years. Many of her days are spent in the Irish wilderness, exploring the vivid landscape as the sun rises and sets, chasing the rainbows and happy sheep, observing the Atlantic shore which turns into the most saturated emerald colours, searching for the sleepy, Irish cottages and admiring the burning night sky filled with stars, that reveal the beauty of the Milky Way. Her artwork has received numerous prestigious awards, and hangs in houses and offices all over the world. LOOKING FOR RAIN Madeleine first discovered Ireland while at college when she was looking for an adventure for her diploma. She decided to create a book about rain, and was interested in the

relationship between people and the many forms of water in nature. Ireland was known for its rainy climate so this is where she came. She had six weeks, a little money and arrived to a four-week heat wave! But then she saw County Kerry at its best in glorious sunshine and she fell deeply in love with the people, the land and the ocean shore. In her last two weeks she was blessed with an abundance of rain, capturing the change of landscape from bright sunlight to moody, misty skies and disappearing mountains. She interviewed locals and visitors alike regarding their emotional connection to rain, and captured their portraits. For her diploma she self-published a limited-edition book called ‘Water Gold’. Two of these images were finalists for the prestigious Epson Award, and Annabel Williams Award. Because of the deep impact of the breathtaking nature of Kerry, Madeleine decided to move there and she now considers it her heart felt home. 161


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THE HOUSE OF BLUE & WHITE Madeleine has created a beautiful one of a kind gallery space within her house, and has welcomed many visitors who leave with glowing reviews from the experience. Two rooms exhibit a selection of her favourite artworks, from extralarge canvas which resemble gateways into the Irish landscape to framed fine art print of all sizes. Shipping of prints is worldwide, and in a protective tube. Her art is to be experienced whilst standing in front of it, as a small web image can’t show the outstanding details in her imagery. “If you stand in front of my artwork, it enables you to connect with the magical light and moment I witnessed and captured. If you surround yourself with my photographs, they act like gateways into real Kerry and you can merge with the landscape and feel connected with the piece of land you so love. That is the beauty of imagery – the inspiration can travel from the person who captured it to the person who looks at it. It is very important what kind of images you choose to surround yourself with as they have a deep influence on your soul.”

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IT’S A CHICKEN’S LIFE! Life in County Kerry is never idle, as with the four seasons in one day, there’s always a sight to see. For Madeleine even on the cloudy misty days, there’s a miniature farm to take care of, with dogs, a cat & seven rescue chickens, who all give good company. Madeleine has a soft spot for chickens. “They are highly underestimated. They are very intelligent, funny and remind me of mini dinosaurs” she says. Spirit the greyhound, Bailey Bear the brown chocolate Labrador and Angel, a wild Kerry mix are living in harmony with her cat and chickens and will greet you on arrival. Lilou the cat thinks she is one of the dogs, and will show any visitor around the exhibition rooms. ROCKS IN THE OCEAN Madeleine’s love story with the Skelligs started when she visited Kerry 12 years ago. “I was driving through St. Finian’s Bay along the Skellig Ring on a stunning day. It was so breathtaking that I decided to visit the next day again. To my surprise I noticed two magical islands which appeared to have floated by overnight because they were not visible on my first visit.” Since then

Madeleine has a remarkable ability to see the magic in the world around us and capture the essence and beauty of her surroundings. Her gallery is not a place to simply stop by on the way to another destination. It is a destination in itself.


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she has visited Skellig Michael and Little Skellig numerous times and has created a stunning collection of Skellig images in the most magical light. She considers Skellig Michael as the most precious point on earth. THE STARS IN THE SKY At night in South West Kerry, the sky becomes ablaze with starlight and you can even make out the centre of the Milky Way, stretching across the skyline. Madeleine’s home and gallery are located in the core zone of the Kerry International Dark-Sky Reserve. This Dark-Sky Reserve is an award from the International Dark-Sky Association, meaning the star filled clear nights are of an exceptional quality. It is the first Gold Tier Reserve to be awarded in all of the Northern Hemisphere. Madeleine has spent many nights capturing the mind-blowing dark sky. “Our relationship with the stars is very intimate, they make us feel big and small at the same time. There is nothing better than watching the blaze of the Milky Way overhead.” Madeleine has recorded many time-lapse videos of the dark sky which can be seen on her youtube channel. 163


Blasket Cottage

Waterville Cliff Cottage

Skellig Sheep

Wild Atlantic Wave

...bring the Magic of the Wild Atlantic Way and Skellig Michael into your Home

Skellig Michael


CHAPLIN FESTIVAL | WATERVILLE

Charlie Chaplin FILM FESTIVAL A DAY WITHOUT LAUGHTER IS A DAY WASTED ~ CHARLIE CHAPLIN

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he small seaside village of Waterville has often been referred to as the jewel on the famous Ring of Kerry. Nestled on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, hugging the shores of Lough Currane and enjoying a magnificent backdrop of lush, rugged mountains, it is little wonder that Charlie Chaplin fell in love with this idyllic, picturesque location. Considered to be one of the most pivotal stars of the early days of Hollywood, Charlie Chaplin is best recognized as an icon of the silent film era, often

associated with his popular character, the Little Tramp; the man with the toothbrush mustache, bowler hat, bamboo cane and a funny walk. Back in the 1960s, Charlie Chaplin and his wife Oona came to Waterville and immediately fell in love with the place. Chaplin was spellbound by its extraordinary beauty and from then on continued to holiday there along with his entire family for many years. In fact, Waterville is still a bolt hole for some of his children and grandchildren. His grandson Julien (a regular 165


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visitor to Waterville today) recounts a story of his grandfather having had a fruitless day fishing on the lake, deciding to head to the fish shop in Caherciveen to buy some Salmon and return to the Butler Arms Hotel claiming that it was he who had caught them, an obvious indication that Chaplin was not only a comedian on screen, but also a bit of a joker in reality! In 2011 the people of Waterville with the support of Josephine Chaplin, along with many other benefactors, friends and the local business community held the very first annual Charlie Chaplin Comedy Film Festival to honor the life and work of the master comedian and filmmaker. Now each August the inimitable legend of the silver screen is honored at the Charlie Chaplin Comedy Film Festival – an event that has grown to becoming an international fixture that brings a smile to everyone who visits. The Charlie Chaplin Comedy Film Festival honors the pioneering spirit of the great film maker. Over four days there are workshops, circus performances, street entertainers, art exhibitions, amusement rides, film competition screenings and pop up improvised comedy. The festival includes a huge range of events alongside Chaplin themed street entertainment. There are screenings of classic movies, a special programme of Chaplin films (this year showing Limelight and The Immigrant). The film competition is the pivotal event of the festival with entries coming in from all over the world. Filmmakers compete in four different categories: • • • •

Live action and animation films. All forms of comedy film. Good humor and laugh out loud films. Documentaries.

The young filmmakers of tomorrow are encouraged with Chaplin’s of the Future and Under-18 categories, while the Comedy Film and Social Commentary Film categories reflect the two themes prevalent in Chaplin’s work. Visitors can enjoy a trip to the Charlie Chaplin Picture Gallery and celebrate the golden age 166

of cinema at the Laurel & Hardy Museum. Fossett’s, Ireland’s National Circus, will also be returning to Mick O’ Dwyer Park to host events in the iconic Big Top. Street entertainer Charlie Pakdel, the most famous Charlie Chaplin impersonator in the world makes a repeat performance to the delight of all those present. RECORD BREAKERS In 2016 there was a Guinness World record attempt to have the most Charlie Chaplin lookalikes. It made a spectacular sight, 151 Charlie Chaplin lookalikes walking from the community center to Fossett’s Big Top on the promenade in Waterville, Co Kerry. And even though they didn’t beat the world record of 250 set in Los Angeles, organizers of the Charlie Chaplin


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Charlie Chaplin returned to Waterville for many years as a place where he could enjoy spending time with his family in relative anonymity. Many locals remember him strolling along the seafront promenade, his privacy always respected.

CHARLIE CHAPLIN Sir Charles Spencer “Charlie” Chaplin, KBE (16 April 1889 – 25 December 1977) was an English comic actor, film director and composer best known for his work in the United States during the silent film era. He became the most famous film star in the world before the end of World War I.

Comedy Film Festival were happy with the numbers who dressed up as The Tramp. The light-hearted world record attempt has become a particular highlight of the festival. You too can become a record breaker by donning a bowler hat, black moustache, bow tie and baggy trousers with a black curly wig! If you don’t have a Chaplin hat to hand no problem, you can buy one at the festival office or on the promenade at the Chaplin statue. Known for their irreverence, integrity, honesty, humor and warmth, as well as their use of social commentary, Charlie Chaplin’s films have truly stood the test of time. Visit glorious Waterville in August and you not only experience one of Ireland’s most iconic areas, but you get to don the hat and become an icon yourself!

Chaplin used mime, slapstick and other visual comedy routines, and continued well into the era of the talkies, though his films decreased in frequency from the end of the 1920s. His most famous role was that of The Tramp, which he first played in the Keystone comedy Kid Auto Races at Venice in 1914. From the April 1914 one-reeler Twenty Minutes of Love onwards, he was writing and directing most of his films; by 1916 he was also producing them, and from 1918 he was even composing the music for them. With Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks and D. W. Griffith, he co-founded United Artists in 1919. Chaplin was one of the most creative and influential personalities of the silent-film era. He was influenced by his predecessor, the French silent-film comedian Max Linder, to whom he dedicated one of his films. His working life in entertainment spanned over 75 years, from the Victorian stage and the music hall in the United Kingdom as a child performer, until close to his death at the age of 88. In 1999, the American Film Institute ranked Chaplin the 10th-greatest male screen legend of all time. In 2008, Martin Sieff, in a review of the book Chaplin: A Life, wrote, “Chaplin was not just ‘big’, he was gigantic. In 1915, he burst onto a war-torn world bringing it the gift of comedy, laughter and relief while it was tearing itself apart through World War I. Over the next 25 years, through the Great Depression and the rise of Adolf Hitler, he stayed on the job. It is doubtful any individual has ever given more entertainment, pleasure and relief to so many human beings when they needed it the most.” George Bernard Shaw called Chaplin “the only genius to come out of the movie industry”. 167


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Dooleys Waterfront BAR AND RESTAURANT M

outhwatering food in glorious surrounds makes for a memorable visit to this Waterville gem. With over 10 years working in New York’s renowned ‘Smith & Wollensky’s Steakhouse’ proprietor David Farrell has extensive experience in delivering a high-quality dining experience. David & his wife, Chef-Patron Katie Farrell, have worked side by side in Dooley’s for the last 10 years, to build up their business and to earn their reputation Dooley’s has for great food in fabulous surroundings. Dooley’s now has a central location near the public car park beside the ocean, so every table is beside the sea. They offer a choice of menus including a bar food menu and an extensive A La Carte menu. They can also tailor a menu to suit all requirements and budgets. Dooley’s Restaurant offers a choice of topquality beef and seafood dishes in a worldclass setting overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Seafood is straight off local fishing boats from local suppliers Daly’s Seafood, ensuring top

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quality and the freshest possible seafood, including crabmeat, lobster, oysters, mussels, black sole, and Dooley’s famous Monkfish. For meat eaters there is a choice of 100% Irish Beef such as sirloin and succulent fillet steaks or why not go for the Kerry spring lamb, which is world-renowned. All meat is sourced locally and


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supplied by Miller’s Meat in Cahersiveen. Dooley’s draws the crowd from far and wide including a very healthy local following. Open all year round, their fabulous menus are complimented by a really great wine list, with wines carefully chosen by David to cover all varieties of grape and to suit all palates. They have an amazing display of over 200 different Irish Whiskeys, Gin and Scotch selections. Katie, and Kerry native, Head Chef, Daniel Enright and their team of chefs change the menu regularly to reflect the amazing local produce available in their area. With two world class golf courses close by (Waterville Links and Hog’s Head) many a golfer finds their way to this lovely spot – an ideal stop for lunch, dinner or a quick bite after 18 holes of golf. With panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean from every room and table, Dooley’s delivers a dining experience like no other, with an ambiance that is unmatched. Attention to detail and the best quality ingredients create a tasty and exciting menu offering exceptional good value for money and at outstanding overall experience. 169


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Spirit of SKELLIG

IT IS OFTEN SAID THAT “WE ARE WHERE WE COME FROM…” AND THIS IS DEFINITELY TRUE FOR THE SKELLIG GIFT STORE.

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ur families love of fine arts and crafts dates back 100 years to my grandmother who, as a young woman worked for a prestigious gift store in Limerick, where she later opened her own store. 50 Years ago, with the adrenalin pumping, my parents, proud owners of a tired, old fishing trawler, arrived at this awesome pinnacle of rock. They arrived at the Skellig islands in County Kerry. They worked and explored not only the dizzy heights of these amazing islands, 170

but also scuba dived to their very base on the ocean floor. To quote Alf “I took one look at this magnificent rock, dived through the crystal depths of the underwater Skellig’s which has a colour and magic unsurpassed by any sea in the world. It was love at first sight” In the 6th century, the first monks set up home on Skellig Michael. They thought this was heaven on earth, so do my parents, and so do

stunning crafts and gifts designed and created in Kerry and the rest of Ireland


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get the same personal attention at www. skelliggiftstore.com. Get to Know Kerry; its heritage and mythology. You’ll love her! As part of your experience we invite you to visit, Free of charge, our Heritage Gallery at Waterville. This unique outdoor Gallery in the grounds of Skellig Gift Store is where you will learn about South Kerry heritage, culture, archaeology – stone forts and circles, geology, birds, flora and fauna, local folklore and mythology. It provides a great introduction to the wonderful array of local heritage sites and stories, not only in Waterville but the Skellig Coast on the Ring of Kerry Wild Atlantic Way. There is a dedicated section of the Skellig Rocks, after which our gift store in named. The Skellig islands are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, which in recent times was the location for two Star Wars films, ( episode 7 The Force Awakens) and ( episode 8 The Last Jedi). the Jedi of Star Wars fame who landed 50 years after my parents.

We have come a long way since then, but our values remain the same.

HISTORY OF SKELLIG GIFT STORE Our first store - 50 years ago my parents opened their first retail outlet which consisted of a large lobster storage box just sitting on a pier on the mainland where they sold their handcrafted souvenirs made from polished stones and shell craft. When my parents departed on a fishing trip the stall would be left unattended, the cash register which consisted of an open container or box would display a notice to this effect, “Please leave cash for purchases in container – Thanks Very Much.” On returning from their days work at the Skellig’s they were seldom disappointed. A great testament to the honesty of the times.

This was the foundation stone or birth place for The Skellig Gift Store. What else could we call it! We invite you to visit the Skellig Gift Store where a warm welcome awaits you, come and browse in spacious, friendly and beautiful surroundings. Skellig Gift Store is a unique and extensive visitor attraction showcasing Irish heritage, craft and design located on the Skellig Coast on the main Ring of Kerry road (N70), just 500 m North of the village of Waterville, on the Wild Atlantic Way. If you can’t get here in person , please visit our website, where you will

We also have a Star Wars Cave for free dress up and selfie photos. Check out our certificate of excellence and reviews on TripAdvisor, and Google. Visit our website skelliggiftstore.com, where you will find our unique selection of Irish Craft products, and benefit from genuine FREE WORLDWIDE SHIPPING on all orders. Contact Details Email: hello@skelliggiftstore.com Shop Online anytime www.skelliggiftstore.com

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DINGLE TO SKELLIG MICHAEL TOUR Set sail from Dingle Harbour on board the MV JessicaKate, enjoying a 3.5 hr round trip of the famous Skellig Islands, 12km off the Kerry coast. Listed as one of Ireland’s three UNESCO world heritage sites, your journey to the famous Skellig Michael will bring you along the breath-taking coast that is The Wild Atlantic Way. DINGLE TO GREAT BLASKET ISLAND FERRY Take a fast passenger ferry from Dingle Marina to the Great Blasket Island. Watch out for Fungie the dolphin at the entrance to Dingle Harbour, then sit back and soak in the scenery as you round Slea Head and approach the Blasket Island. BLASKET ISLANDS ECO TOUR Enjoy a fascinating 3 hour guided tour of the Blasket islands. Soak in the magnificent scenery of Inisvickillane (look out for the herd of Red deer), Inisnabro (Cathedral rocks) and the Great Blasket Island. Cruise among the seals, puffins, gannets and other seabirds of the outer islands while keeping watch for whales, dolphins and porpoises.

Dingle Marina, Dingle,Co. Kerry Tel: 066-9151344 Mobile: 087-6726100 E-mail: info@dinglebaycharters.com

www.dingleboattours.com


KERRY | DINGLE

Delightful DINGLE

ONE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY, THE DINGLE PENINSULA ON IRELAND’S SOUTHWEST ATLANTIC COAST IS RINGED BY SANDY BEACHES AND CRAGGY CLIFFS.

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ramed by its fishing port, the peninsula’s charming little capital manages to be quaint without even trying. Some pubs double as shops, so you can enjoy Guinness and a singalong among screws and nails, wellies and horseshoes. Foxy John’s is a half-pub, halfhardware store with bicycle rentals on the side! In summer the hilly streets can be full to the brim with visitors but this only adds to the charm and to the craic in the many colorful pubs.

Dingle Marina is situated in the sheltered Dingle Harbor at the most southwesterly point of Ireland. The marina is in the heart of this busy market town, famous for its hospitality. The lively town is home to excellent seafood restaurants and its pubs are well known for their music. The marina welcomes visitors and has all modern amenities, showers, water, fuel etc. Golf, horse riding, cycling and escorted tours are all available locally. It is also home to a modern diving, sailing and traditional Currach rowing center, 173


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offering courses to visitors, young and old. FAMOUS FOR FISH Yes, this is a great location for seafood and yes, Dingle is a major fishing port, but it’s not the food that is the number one attraction, it’s Ireland’s most famous dolphin, Fungie. Since 1983, this friendly chap has entertained every man, woman and child off the coast of 174

Dingle, this picturesque seaside town in County Kerry. In fact, he’s so adored by the townspeople they even built a statue in his honor. The best way to see Fungie is to take a boat tour and watch him splash about in the sea. So regular are Fungie’s appearances that you won’t be charged if he doesn’t show. Bridget, tour manager with Dingle Dolphin Boat Tours reckons she’s seen him thousands of times over


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the years. “I would say maybe five tours a year don’t see Fungie,” she says, “but 99% of the time he stays in the harbor and enjoys playing close by the boats that go in and out every day.” As you’d expect from a dolphin that has boat tours dedicated to him, Fungie is a pretty impressive character. “People are amazed that they see so much of him; he chooses to swim right beside the tour boat,” says Bridget.

And whether it’s the Kerry air or the Kerry accent that keeps him here, one thing’s for sure: he’s not going anywhere. “He has never left since he first arrived in 1983, Bridget explains. “I think he is fond of Dingle because it’s a very sheltered harbor. He may have been orphaned here and therefore he feels secure here. Dolphins are highly intelligent, and I think he knows he is an honorary member of Dingle.”

Dingle Harbor offers shelter from all weather and is the base for an active fishing fleet. This market town is famous for its friendliness and its hospitality, and boasts excellent restaurants and fifty-two pubs! 175


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i Mile Failte Cead

Local Cliff Views Great Guinness Amazing Views

THE STONEHOUSE Irish Goats Cheese

Irish Café & Seafood Restaurant, Slea Head Drive, Fahan, Ventry, Dingle, Co.Kerry, Ireland.

World famous for it’s unique stone roof, spectacular sea views, cosy turf fires, old world ambience in the hearth of the Dingle Peninsula Irish Gaeltacht. Stonehouse Cliff Views

Homemade Apple Pie

Blasket Islands

With stunning sea views overlooking Dingle Bay, Iveragh Peninsula, Valentia Island, the UNESCO Skellig Islands and the nearby Blasket Islands. Here you can enjoy traditional Irish food including Irish lamb stew, fresh local seafood dishes, organic rhubarb and custard crumble, apple pie, daily baked hot scones and much more. A wide range of speciality coffees including Irish coffee and Bailey’s coffee. Fine wines and local beers including Guinness on draft. A wonderful authentic Irish cultural experience is always guaranteed at the Stonehouse Restaurant.

Com Dhíneol Beach

Irish Lamb Stew

Coach Groups, Parties and Special Events Always Welcome.

www.stonehouseventry.com 176

Fresh Crab Salad

Many Trip advisor Awards of Excellence

Tel: 353 (0)66 9159970 Mobile: David: 087-2023004 Michelle: 087 6249635 Email: daithi.foran@gmail.com

Fahan Beehives Huts

500 BC Dunbeag Fort

Directly beside the 500BC Dunbeag Fort Visitor Centre with Unique Local Art & Gift Shop. As recommended by Rick Steves - The Stonehouse Dingle Bay Crab Salad with Homemade Brown Bread.

Smoked Salmon on Brown Bread

Rhubarb Crumble

Recommended Stop by

Irish Coffees


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MUSICAL TRADITIONS Whether you’re a first-time or regular visitor to Dingle, you can’t help but notice the wealth of musical talent all around. Dingle’s pubs are known for great character – and great characters, as well as nightly sessions of traditional music and lots of ‘craic’ (fun times). Even if it is pouring rain, Dingle will warm your heart with its welcoming variety of pubs. A firm favorite is a family pub with star quality, Dick Mack’s. Probably Dingle’s most well known pub, it is named after the late leather-craftsman Richard MacDonnell (the current owner’s father). The clue to Dick Mack’s previous life is on the walls: the remnants of the MacDonnell shoe business. The pub carries on a cobbler’s tradition with a small leather shop still on the premises and an array of handcrafted leather boots, belts, and key fobs still on display. But even before you step through the door you’ll be walking with the stars. Current owner Oliver’s father, Dick, created a Walk of Fame in front of the pub when the film Ryan’s Daughter brought Robert Mitchum to the Dingle peninsula in 1968. In fact, the first famous souls to be immortalized on the walk included Tom Crean, an Antarctic explorer from Kerry and writer Jerome O’Connor. Crean also was honored with a lager named after him by the Dingle Brewing Co. Even Dolly Parton found a place for herself in Dick Mack’s: the bar counter. Sure where else would you get it?! The pub crawl is a noble tradition and a great way to check out as many pubs as possible when time is your enemy. The rules are simple. Set a time limit per pub (an hour per pub is sociably acceptable) and stick to it. When the hour is up, down your drink and move. The key to a successful crawl is to start early when the pubs aren’t too busy so you have seen plenty by 10pm. This way you can ignore your conscience at pub number five when it urges you to leave those prime seats equidistant from the bar, the bathroom and the band. Dingle, as it happens is the perfect pub crawl town. It is compact in size and has more pubs per square inch than anywhere in Ireland which means you will never 177


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have to stumble far. Here are some pubs that should definitely be on your crawl (all have music most nights): McCarthy’s Pub, Goat Street An Droichead Beag, Main Street Foxy John’s, Main Street Adam’s, Main Street John Benny’s, Strand Street Danno’s Bar, Strand Street Dick Macks, Green Street O’Flaherty’s, Bridge Street

a round Irish drum played with a stick. During the season popular beginner workshops for the bodhrán (with all bodhráns supplied) take place on Saturdays 11am – 1pm or try the short session on Wednesdays from 12 to 1pm. Tin whistle workshops take place every Monday half day 11am – 1pm or full day 11am – 4pm with an hour for lunch.

Authentic crawling advice: in Dingle the dodgier and more run down a pub looks from the outside the more likely you are to have fun on the inside. Dingle is full of small little bars that don’t make it into guidebooks. The pub may look a little rough around the edges, they may be unable to accept credit cards and the barman may be struck dumb if you order a cosmopolitan, but it is here you will find true Dingle pub happiness.

TAKE A TOUR The best way to explore any area is to hook up with a well-heeled local and to this end, Denis Ryan’s tours are ideal. Private guided tours of the Dingle Peninsula showing the history, archeology and folklore of the area are available from Dingle Tours. The tour is limited to up to four people and can be taken as a two, three or four-hour tour. Cost is €20, €30 or €40 per person and is the number one tour of the Dingle peninsula according to TripAdvisor. Starting time is normally 10.00am or 11.00am from your B&B.

While in the Dingle area, especially in the summer season, be sure to visit the Dingle Music School. It specializes in the easy and accessible learning of traditional Irish music in particular in the two most accessible Irish instruments, the tin whistle and the bodhrán,

Another great way to take in the sights is to go for a ‘jaunt’. You are invited to experience an oldfashioned style tour, while enjoying the comfort of a modern horse drawn carriage featuring leaf springs, disc brakes and comfortable padded seating. Tour departs on the hour and on every

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half hour, for a cost of €7 per person, with kids 8 and under free when accompanied by an adult. Hear a little Dingle history (in English and Irish) together with entertaining local tales, as you ride along in a covered carriage, so that rain cannot ruin your tour. The guide will also provide you with advice on where to shop, to hear traditional music or to dine. Dingle Jaunting is an environmentally friendly business, using only traditional horse power and all the horsey waste is collected for use in local organic gardens. Fancy taking to the water and trying your hand with a fishing line? Whether a novice fisherman or an experienced angler, visitors can experience the thrills of deep-sea fishing in Dingle Bay on board one of Dingle Bay Charters’ three fully licensed and equipped angling boats. Washed by the warm Gulf Stream, Dingle Bay plays host to a large variety of fish species, including conger, pollack, wrasse, ray, blue shark and tope. The skippers, who have spent a lifetime at sea, will take anglers to their favorite marks in the bay and beyond where they can fish surrounded by the spectacular scenery of the most westerly islands in Europe. If you can take a trip out to the Blasket Islands

just a few miles off Slea Head. The islands don’t look very inviting from the mainland and yet the largest, Great Blasket Island, was inhabited for almost 300 years up to 1953 when the final 200 hardy souls were forced to abandon the island due to lack of basic services – there was no school, shop, priest or doctor. Many moved to Springfield (no Simpson’s jokes please!), Massachusetts where to this day a copy of the weekly Kerryman newspaper is delivered to their door. The Great Blasket heritage centre located in Dunquin tells the island’s fascinating and moving story and is well worth checking out.

The lush green hills of the Dingle Peninsula give rise to not only beautiful scenery, but also a devotion by residents to fresh, locally produced foods.

To visit the Blaskets, you can enjoy a fast boat ferry from the Dingle Marina from the pontoon below the Tourist Office at 11.00 am daily. This trip offers a whole package, catch a glimpse of Fungi and the Dingle Peninsula, spend a few hours on the Blasket Island.  Heading out of town is well worthwhile as the surrounding area positively oozes charm and history. If you are not driving, join Atlantic Road Tours Dingle for a breathtaking minibus tour of the Dingle Peninsula’s Slea Head drive. Enjoy the scenery and history of Slea Head and the Wild Atlantic Way including The Famine Cottage, a visit to the Early Christian Beehive 179


Griffins Gift Shop Strand Street Dingle Co. Kerry Ireland V92 W326

Cead Mile Failte

T: 066 9150640 E: info@griffinsgiftshop.com

www.griffinsgiftshop.com @griffinsgiftshop

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diner

Dingles latest eatery has opened its doors at “The Holy Ground” Dingle, Kerry!

Burgers, pizza... and a whole lot more!

The Dingle Diner is loosely based on the U.S. model with its wide range of food served in a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. It has the traditional counter, the soft seats and the peoples music crooning softly in the background.

Delicious food! Great prices! Welcoming atmosphere! Á +00353 66 915 1010 www.dinglediner.com


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Huts, the Blasket Island Interpretive Centre and the incredible Gallarus Oratory. Guests can be collected from their accommodation and all tours start and end in Dingle Town. KERRY KEEPSAKES You may not expect to find one of Ireland’s leading goldsmiths nestled on the Dingle Peninsula but that’s part of the Celtic heritage Brian de Staic embraces. This renowned local designer’s exquisite modern Celtic work includes symbols such as the Hill of Tara, crosses and standing stones, as well as jewelry inscribed with Ogham script. Brian and Máiread de Staic started their jewelry business in 1981, in the beautiful small village of Dingle. From the very beginning they insisted on using only Irish Hallmarked silver and gold for their original pieces, continuing timeless traditions of Irish jewelry crafting.

World-renowned and recognized for its delicate detailing, Brian de Staic Jewelry combines the skilled artistry of a modern master with the unique age-old traditions of the Celts. Brian himself personally trains his in-house team, to ensure the highest quality and elegance of each piece. And just like Dingle’s ancient Ogham stones that overlook the Atlantic, each piece is individually handcrafted with meaning and purpose, making Brian de Staic jewelry one-ofa-kind. The rings, pendants and brooches aren’t just capturing a memory for you to treasure, they’re also miniature works of art.

Dingle Whiskey is a product of its environment. From the localized well water to the manual mashing and wooden fermentation vessels, the result is pure perfection.

Another great place to find a unique Irish gift is at Dingle Artworks. Situated opposite the famous Dick Mack’s pub, head that way for a pint and then a bit of a potter around this lovely store and studio. This is a family run business, exclusively featuring local artists, specializing in silk paintings, oil paintings, papier-mâché 181


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models, prints, greeting cards and postcards to suit all tastes and pockets. It’s an ideal stop to take a little piece of Ireland back home and hang it on your wall. Maybe you are a fan of Irish crystal? Ireland is synonymous with crystal making and there is certainly no exception to the rule when you make a visit to the Dingle Crystal workshop just outside of Dingle Town.  Not only are you visiting an area rich in the heritage of tradition & craft; at Dingle Crystal, you will watch a master craftsman at work.  Sean Daly, the owner and formally a craftsman at Waterford Crystal; came to Dingle in 1998 to further his passion.  Finding much inspiration in this new haven; Sean has created some outstanding & beautifully crafted pieces through 6 different Celtic Themes.  Not only are his pieces distinctly unique, each is personally designed, cut & signed by the master craftsman himself.  Sean is very personable & accommodating to all who visit and his work speaks this in volumes. He will always take the time to give demonstrations and arrange tours of 182

his workshop. This is definitely worth a visit while staying in Dingle but don’t take our word for it, go and find out for yourself.  The workshop is located outside of Dingle Town however his display shop is located on Green Street in the heart of Dingle. If you need a little help choosing a gift head for Strand Street (Sráid Na Trá) where you will find the brightly colored Griffin’s Gift Shop. Here you can browse through a myriad of gift ideas with Ann and Mike Griffin only too happy to help you make your choice. TRY A TIPPLE Most visitors will have heard of the Guinness Storehouse and the Jameson distillery but down in Dingle you can get up close and personal with the process of whiskey making in a much more relaxed and congenial environment. The Dingle Whiskey Distillery is not in the business of creating megabrands, nor do they distil for anyone else. Their scale is modest,


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their approach to what they make is essentially artisan and they have rekindled the tradition of independent distilling in Ireland. When the first spirit trickled from the stills here in November 2012 it represented a milestone in the history of distilling in Ireland, and now their unique Dingle Whiskey continually matures in the mild, moist climate of Ireland’s southwest coast while those first spirits are bottled into a magnificent single malt whiskey. You can also enjoy the fruits of their labors in the form of Dingle Original Gin and Dingle Distillery Vodka. The distillery welcomes visitors to enjoy a tour of their facility where the entire production process, for all their products, is explained and a gin/vodka sample is provided. TASTY TREATS The brightly painted Murphy’s Ice Cream in the center of the town is an institution and there’s no better place to try ice cream with some

weird and wonderful flavors. They include sea salt, lavender, brown bread, Dingle gin and Irish coffee. Forget about the weather, this is delicious, decadent and divine ice cream said to be the best in Ireland. For something more substantial, a bit of home style cooking at McGeaneys Diner will appeal to visitors from the USA with its familiar diner style and hearty fare. Ideal for families, the diner is known for its creamy milkshakes and burgers served with Canadian maple bacon. SLEA HEAD The Slea Head Loop from Dingle town is the most famous drive in the area and definitely should not be missed. From Dingle’s, head west over the bridge at the end of town following the road towards Ventry. Without giving too much away the route follows the southern coast of the peninsula out to Slea Head then heads north through Dunquin and Ballyferriter before winding its way back to Dingle. The whole route

The brightly painted Murphy’s Ice Cream in the center of the town is an institution and there’s no better place to try ice cream with some weird and wonderful flavors.

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MANNIX POINT CAMPING AND CARAVAN PARK

gifts | food | drink

Killarney National Park Tel: 064 663340 E: info@ladiesview.com

Beautiful camping at the coast. Come and enjoy it. Cahersiveen, Ring of Kerry Coast, Co. Kerry, Ireland. Ph: +353 (0) 66 947 2806 E: mortimer@campinginkerry.com W: www.campinginkerry.com

gifts | food | drink

www.ladiesview.com Enjoy breathtaking views gifts | food | drink of Killarney's Lakes from our new roof terrace Cafe "Altitude" Gift Shop * Cafe * Bar Throws * Perfumes Kinitwear * Jewellery Lace and Headwear

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WEST KERRY BREWERY

A Micro Brewery & Pub with Accommodation on the Dingle Peninsula. As the original and first Micro Brewery in Kerry, we are situated on the Scenic and Historical Dingle Peninsula in the grounds of a mature garden which is part of the family run bar Tiġ Bhric (Bricks Pub) which has been operating as a pub within the same family for over 100 years. Call in or email to arrange a tour of our brewery and garden so you can see for yourself where it all comes from and finish it off with a flight of tastings in our pub. brewery@westkerrybrewery.ie http://www.westkerrybrewery.ie Tiġ Bhric An Riasc Ballyferriter Dingle Peninsula Kerry

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is only 42 km (26 miles) long, so in theory, it could be completed in less than an hour. But why would you want to do that? The scenery is never short of breathtaking and in places is astoundingly dramatic and beautiful. If heading out on the magnificent Slea Head Drive, stop by The Stonehouse, one of the most unique restaurants in these parts. It overlooks the vast, blue, Atlantic Ocean and the Skellig Islands. This popular Dingle Peninsula Restaurant serves excellent bistro style food in a genuine Irish stone house. The entire building is constructed in stone, in the time-honored tradition of the area. The restaurant is also adjacent to one of Ireland’s most famous prehistoric sites, Dunbeg Fort and next to the famine cottages, welcoming visitors from all corners of the earth every year. CAMPING & GLAMPING Mannix Point camping on the gulf coast has such a huge return rate you have to wonder what on earth is in water down there?! In 2014 owner Mortimer Moriarty celebrated 30 years of providing memorable experiences for visitors and friends from five continents.

meters of waterfront is spectacularly located. It is surrounded on three sides by hills and mountains and faces the Atlantic islands of Valentia and Beginish on the south west. It is described in prestigious travel guides as one of the best campsites in Ireland, a nature lovers paradise, and much more besides. Mortimer has been a walker and camper all of his adult life so he delights in sharing this beautiful retreat with visitors and to meeting new and returning friends. If you fancy staying in the outdoors but you want to do so in the lap of luxury, then head for the woods at Dromquinna Manor, a stunning waterside estate set in 40 acres of parkland just outside Kenmare town. Custom made tents here were designed specifically for Dromquinna by safari tent experts in India. Each tent is placed to take full advantage of the stunning lakeside setting and offer maximum privacy with their own veranda and deck area. All are fully furnished like a luxury hotel bedroom. Surrounded by the natural habitat of hardwood trees and indigenous shrubs ‘glamping’ at Dromquinna Manor is imbued with nature and luxury.

This tranquil, family friendly park with 500 185


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Something FISHY KERRY’S MOST COLOURFUL TOWN HAS MUCH TO OFFER, INCLUDING THE MOST DELICIOUS SEAFOOD IMAGINABLE AT THE FISH BOX.

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t all started for the Flannery family over 100 years ago with a heritage of commercial fishing to their name. As Micheál Flannery says, “it’s safe to say that there is a real passion for fishing embedded in our nature!” Since the outset in 1920, the Flannery family has owned and fished a total of 17 commercial vessels. The purchase of the ‘Star Immaculate’ by grandfather Paddy in 1963 was the catalyst for a lifetime of seafaring. Paddy passed on his expertise to his four sons, who in turn passed it down to grandchildren Patrick and Micheál. “The fishing industry has been ever present in our lives and we are the fourth generation of a truly fishing revolved family,” enthuses Micheál whose 186

father was a fisherman since 1975. He started his trade on small crafts of only 20ft, hauling his catch in by hand and selling it on the local market. In 1986 with the help of his parents, he purchased his first commercial trawler, aptly named ‘The Three Brothers.’ He fished that boat for four years targeting prawns, monkfish and whitefish, delivering the freshest of product to the Irish market. Then in 1990, he upgraded his vessel to the 35 meter ‘Shannon’ allowing him to venture further out to sea and for longer. At that stage the Flannery family had a fleet of commercial trawlers which were being run by brothers Hugh, Paul and Michael under the watchful eye of their experienced father Paddy. The turn of the decade provided a new opportunity


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when Michael opted to build his own 35-meter trawler named ‘Emerald Dawn.’ Expanding his fishing knowledge, Michael opted to also target deep sea species such as Orange Roughy and Black Scabbards with this ship. This family run trawler was fished up until 2007 where a changing economy and decreasing quotas meant that they had to down-size the operation. In 2007, they sold ‘Emerald Dawn’ and opted to move on to a more efficient 24 meter ‘Cú Na Mara’, which is Gaelic for ‘Hound of the Sea.’ With this the family caught langoustines and prawns which they froze at sea – a high demand product all over Europe due to the high quality of the catch. In 2011, Michael took a step back and allowed his sons Patrick and Micheál to have a more leading role. In 2007, their mother Deirdre opened her own café. Since then, both Patrick and Micheál have been searching for ways to optimise the value for the Cú Na Mara’s catch. After much thought, they decided to amalgamate their parent’s professions and opened a hugely successful seafood bar. “At the Fish Box we have combined our mother’s 35 years of experience as a top chef with our father’s 35 years of experience as a top fisherman,” explains Micheál. This, ignited with the drive and passion of the brothers, lays the foundations of something very special. “We aim to provide top quality fish from our own fishing vessel complemented by the best local produce available to us,” he says. With the Dingle Peninsula being such a blossoming area, the family aim to support and promote local produce providing the highest quality food possible. “We are proud to say that we have full traceability on all fish from the seabed to your plate with each dish supported by four generations of experience.” If in Dingle, The Fish Box is a must try. 187


Dingle Golf Links C e a n n

S i b é a l

Experience the Dingle Peninsula’s only 18 hole links course located on the famous Wild Atlantic Way. Nestled on the edge of Ireland’s dramatic south west coastline, Dingle Golf Links is a special place to play. Book now to play one of Ireland’s top Golf Courses. Dingle Golf Links Ceann Sibéal, Ballyferriter, Co Kerry, Ireland Tel: +353 66 915 62 55 Fax: +353 66 915 64 09 Email: dinglegc@iol.ie

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Gallarus ORATORY A

n old Irish church has been named alongside the Eiffel Tower and Sydney’s Opera House as some of the coolest constructions on the planet. The famously watertight Gallarus Oratory on the Dingle Peninsula is listed beside the world’s greatest feats of architecture in a new book called Amazing Architecture: A Spotter’s Guide. The stone church, which is thought could date to somewhere between the 7th and 15th century, is completely made of stone and resembles an upturned boat. Lonely Planet explained why this “humble bothy” made it into a book of cloudpiercing skyscrapers and iconic sites like the Chrysler Building in New York. “In its frugal stone and story of early Christianity, it’s an icon of northern European building,” said the travel giant.

“Often compared to an upturned boat it’s satisfyingly simple, a dry-stone church with an entrance and an east window. Both its date and its use are contested by historians, but nothing detracts from the Oratory’s pleasing simplicity. The mysterious building is the highlight of the breath-taking Slea Head drive along the Atlantic coast outside Dingle.” It is thought to have been built from cut stone brought from the nearby cliff-face which perfectly fit together keeping out the rain which pelts in from the Atlantic. Amazingly despite its age, it is watertight and in near perfect condition to this day. Gallarus was an ancient place of worship for early Christian farmers. A small yet powerful structure, the interior of the church measures just 4.8 m long by 3 m wide. It is lit by a single, window, located in the eastern gable wall. Local tradition states that anyone who climbs through this tiny window is guaranteed access to heaven! 189


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Picnic on the Rock CAHERGAL STONE FORT IS AN IMPRESSIVE EXAMPLE OF A RING FORT, DATING BACK TO THE IRON AGE.

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ahergal and Leacanabuaile forts, ancient stone neighbors in the hills west of Caherciveen, are known in Irish as caiseal, in English “cashel,” a stone fort. It is a short leap linguistically to the Irish word for castle, caisleán. In local legend, the physical leap from

Leacanabuaile to Cahergal to the stark ruins of Ballycarbery castle is a short one as well, as they are all reputed to be connected by underground passages. In the virtual-reality environment, hotspots rather than tunnels connect the two caisil with the remains of Ballycarbery castle

close to the harbor. It is intriguing to consider that, along with the mythical tunnel, that there may have been a genetic connection, spanning the seven centuries that separate those who lived here, drawing together the families who resided in these three homes of long ago. 191


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DoDublin Cards available at Dublin Airport: Bus & Travel Information Desk (T1) or Airlink Bus Stop (T1 & T2) City Centre: Dublin Bus Head Office, 59 Upper O'Connell Street Online: www.dodublin.ie

The Dubliner’s Guide to Dublin

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK | DUBLIN

Off the Beaten Track IN DUBLIN

YOU CAN’T VISIT A CAPITAL CITY WITHOUT DOING THE TOURISTY THINGS, BUT GOING OFF THE BEATEN TRACK JUST A LITTLE CAN BRING GREAT REWARDS.

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here are a whole host of special places to discover within an hour of Dublin city, from impossibly beautiful little harbors to iconic castles, ancient monastic ruins and grand stately homes. Do it all the easy way with DoDublin Tours, the #1 tour company in Dublin City. Dublin Bus has been ‘doing Dublin’ bus tours across the capital since 1988 through its Dublin Sightseeing City & Coastal Tours. DoDublin’s drivers are all Dublin natives who are

knowledgeable, fun and Fáilte Ireland trained. They have spent years getting to know the city inside and out allowing DoDublin to create experiences and tell stories that enable visitors to get under the skin of the city, relive its history and meet the locals. They know what’s going on and the best places to go and are charming and entertaining with their local wit and banter. The Hop On Hop Off Dublin City Tour will take you to all of the main sights featuring over 30 193


OFF THE BEATEN TRACK | DUBLIN

stops across the city from Dublin Zoo to the Guinness Storehouse to The Book of Kells at Trinity College. Then when you’ve ticked off all of the key sights, head off the beaten track on one of the coastal tours taking in beautiful scenery from Malahide to Glendalough. MALAHIDE & HOWTH Take the Malahide Castle & Howth day tour and discover two Dublin gems. From enchanting Malahide Castle to delightful Howth harbor and a lot more besides, this is a tour with a difference. Get out of the city, take in the fresh air, be blown away by the scenery and sample Dublin’s best fish & chips along the way. First stop is Malahide Castle, one of the most stunning and perfectly preserved medieval castles in Ireland. Positively steeped in history, the castle and its 260-acre demesne is like a time-machine, whisking visitors from near and far back into historic days of old. This 12th century castle was owned by the Talbot 194

Family for nearly 800 years and is one of the longest owned castles by one family in Ireland. Set on 250 acres of stunning parkland, Malahide Castle is adorned with beautiful period furniture and an extensive collection of paintings from the National Gallery of Ireland. The great hall was built in the 15th century. The furniture, the reception rooms, the entry hallway, the corner towers and the plasterwork were all added in the 18th century and reflect the highest standards of the time. Outside the Walled Garden and West Lawn await exploration. You’ll love the interactive exhibition in which you can share in the passion of the gardens created by Milo, the 7th Lord Talbot de Malahide. Marvel at the many species of plants he collected in Australasia flourishing here for you to enjoy. After discovering one of Ireland’s oldest castles, you then head towards another of Dublin’s delightful coastal villages, the picturesque village of Howth. Howth is a really pretty fishing and yachting port

At Glendalough two deep, mysterious lakes are tucked into a long glacial valley fringed by forest. It is a deeply tranquil and spiritual place.


OFF THE BEATEN TRACK | DUBLIN

located about 40 minutes away from the city center. On any given day, it sports fantastic views and nature paths along its coastal cliffs. For the more energetic there is nothing more rewarding than a trek around the cliff paths and down the cliff stairs to the sea shore. For the less adventurous simply stroll around the harbor - a firm favorite destination for Dubliners and it’s easy to see why. You can check out the fishing boats, walk the beautiful pier, observe the seals and seagulls busily vying for food, stop at one of the many cafes for delicious fish and chips then finish it all off with a famous Dublin “99” ice-cream.

GLENDALOUGH & POWERSCOURT The Glendalough & Powerscourt Gardens tour brings you to visit two of the most popular tourism destinations in Ireland, both conveniently located just an hour’s drive from the city. Enjoy stunning views from start to finish as you set off along the south coast of Dublin, taking in the Dublin Docklands and continuing along to Sandymount. Your DoDublin guide will keep you entertained throughout the day with commentary on all the places you’ll see, fascinating historical information, anecdotes and jokes.

Only an hour outside of the city, this tour is the best way to explore Dublin’s glorious north coast with entertaining commentary by your guide, who’ll give you all the local history, stories, jokes and probably a few songs. Tours depart at 11am and 4pm every day.

First stop is Glendalough, a destination that’s known to every Dubliner for its idyllic beauty and serenity. The glen of the two lakes (Gleann Dá Loch) is a glacial valley in County Wicklow and home to one of the most important monastic sites in Ireland. This early Christian monastic settlement was founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and from this developed the monastic city. Most of the buildings that survive today date from the 10th through 12th centuries.

If you’re still hungry for more when you get back to the capital, you get a free loop of Dublin city on the Open Top bus.

The pretty port village of Howth is a major fishing centre, a yachting harbour and one of the most sought-after addresses in Dublin town.

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OFF THE BEATEN TRACK | DUBLIN

For all of its historical significance, the setting of Glendalough is quite spectacular. Two deep, mysterious lakes are tucked into a long glacial valley fringed by forest. It is a deeply tranquil and spiritual place, and you will have little difficulty in understanding why solitude-seeking monks came here all those years ago. The tour then continues through Wicklow, passing the picturesque town of Enniskerry, originally built to accompany the manor house of the nearby Powerscourt Estate. Cameras at the ready, this is a picture-postcard place with colorful cottages and a charming village triangle. At Powerscout Estate you can bask in the Georgian glory of the manor house and gaze out at gardens voted #3 in the world by National Geographic. Powerscourt is stunning in every season. From the ornate Italian Gardens to the formal walks of the Rose and Kitchen Gardens, there are many treasures to explore inside and out. With over 200 varieties of trees, shrubs and flowers this 47 acres has something for everyone.

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Take a walk around and visit the Japanese gardens and pet cemetery, before stopping off in Avoca Terrace Cafe back at Powerscourt House. Sit back and relax in the most amazing setting overlooking what is surely one of the most dramatic vistas in Ireland. The cafĂŠ boasts tall windows and French doors leading out onto the expansive garden terrace with a simply breath-talking panorama of the gardens and the Sugarloaf Mountain. So much to see in one day; visit the Garden of Ireland (Wicklow), check out a grand stately home, wander around lush gardens and pick up some gifts at the Avoca store before kicking back and taking in the view.

Find out all sorts of useful information about Dublin on the DoDublin Blog Shuttle bus pickup available from city center hotels

Get 72 Hours unlimited use of the Airlink Express (airport bus), as well as the Hop on Hop off tour and the entire Dublin Bus Network with the best value ticket the DoDublin Travel Card.


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Tres Bon Meets CÉAD MILE FÁILTE

LIKE THE PERFECT TRINITY, NOEL TYNAN’S DUBLIN BASED BAR, RESTAURANT AND GUEST HOUSE ARE INTRINSICALLY LINKED AND ALL EQUALLY SPECIAL.

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e Bon Crubeen is an Irish-French fusion that oozes chic and charm. It offers an enticing mix for the palate with its award winning FrenchIrish bistro style. Think great Irish produce meets fine French cuisine and you begin to get the picture. This bustling restaurant is ideally located in the city centre and as it is very close to theatres, it is perfect for an appetising early bird menu with specials from 5pm to 6.30pm daily. If you have more time, go and spend the entire evening with regularly changing set menu from 6.30pm daily. Or you might just swing by for a glass or two of wine or a cocktail as you watch the world go by.

Traditional Irish hospitality is on the menu at the Celtic Lodge Guesthouse. Located just a few minutes-walk from both Connolly Train Station and Busáras, the main bus station in Dublin, all of the popular Dublin attractions are within easy walking distance such as the Guinness Storehouse, Dublin Zoo, Book of Kells at Trinity College, St Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin Castle and the Old Jameson Distillery.

If the traditional Irish pub is more your scene, then head for sister property ‘The Celt’ in central Talbot Street. This is your typical convivial Irish watering hole, full of personality in the heart of the city and offering hearty ‘pub grub’ and traditional Irish music every night.

www.leboncrubeen.ie www.thecelt.ie www.celticlodge.ie

So you can be in the heart of all the action, have a tipple in a great Irish pub and dine like a king without spending a kings ransome. It’s a pretty good mixture, or as they say in France, Très bon.

Live Irish Music 7 Nights In Celt Pub Set Dinner Menu 7 Nights In Le Bon Private Dining For Groups Of 20 To 200 197


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DRINKS | DUBLIN

Irish Whiskey MUSEUM

AN INTERACTIVE, ULTRA-MODERN TOUR, THE IRISH WHISKEY MUSEUM IS THE FIRST IRISH WHISKEY MUSEUM IN THE WORLD.

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ourney back through time and discover the story behind Irish whiskey. Savor the captivating anecdotes by the entertaining guides as they bring you through Irish whiskey’s historic journey to the world class recognition that it enjoys today. Learn the origins of Irish whiskey, its dramatic fall and subsequent rise to glory and discover some new Irish whiskey brands along the way. Enjoy the wonderful stories told by the entertaining guides as they bring you through the ages of Irish whiskey. At the end of the tour

you will become a true master of whiskey tasting by sampling 3 delicious Irish whiskeys With an exclusive collection of Irish whiskey memorabilia dating back to the 1800s, blended with a modern twist, this is one memory you are sure to savor. Located opposite the main entrance of Trinity College, the Irish Whiskey Museum is the most centrally located visitor attraction in Dublin. 199


DRINKS | DUBLIN

Relax in their original Irish bar and enjoy an Irish coffee for a truly authentic experience. The tour begins in the apothecary room, where guides explain the origins of the word whiskey and its history, from Irish whiskey’s golden age in the nineteenth century to the arrival of the Normans. You then visit the ‘shebeen’ (Irish: síbín), a reconstruction of what was originally an illicit bar where alcoholic beverages were sold without a license. Here you learn about how the dissolution of the monasteries by Henry VIII led to the domestication of distilling, while taxes resulted in the illicit production of poteen – a potent brew made from many grains including potatoes! The third room is in the style of a Victorian pub, where clever use of videos brings Ireland’s great distillers, from George Roe to John Locke, to life in an entertaining and informative way. Here you discover why Irish whiskey is smoother than its Scottish counterpart and how world wars, Independence and prohibition had an impact on the whiskey industry. There are three tour options to choose from, the Classic or Premium Tour, Whiskey and Brunch Experience, or the Whiskey Blending Experience which includes an extended 1hr 15-minute tour followed by a tasting of four Irish whiskeys before blending your own miniature (30ml) personalized bottle of whiskey to take home. After the tour you can relax in the museum’s contemporary café bar and enjoy a tasty coffee 200

while taking in the beautiful grounds of Trinity College from above. There’s something for everyone at the Irish Whiskey Museum, and you can see more of the museum on their Instagram page @irishwhiskeymuseum. For overseas visitors, this is an ideal place to visit with its mixture of information, charming blarney and generous samples of genuine Irish whiskey. It’s a sure-fire way to taste the Spirit of Ireland, www.irishwhiskeymuseum.ie


NED O’SHEA’S MERCHANT, LOWER BRIDGE STREET And saving the best until last, named after the inimitable Ned O’Shea, a county Kerry native who brought his brand of hearty welcomes and rousing trad sessions up to the bright lights of Dublin city, O’Shea’s Pub plays live music every night of the week. And if that gets your feet tapping, then you’ll love the set dancing sessions that everyone’s welcome to join. Surrounded by whiskey distilleries and breweries, including the world-famous Guinness distillery, O’Shea’s offers a wide range of Irish whiskey and a cracking ‘pint of plain’, as Guinness is affectionately known locally. Learn the art of pulling a perfect pint and get a certificate to prove that you’re an expert. Take a picture with the biggest pint of Guinness in Ireland or enjoy a traditional Irish whiskey tasting experience. With set dancing every Monday and live music seven nights a week, the craic is always mighty at O’Shea’s. A long list of talented and world-famous musicians have played here including Mary & Frances Black, The Begley Family and The Wanted to name just a few. Ned O’Sheas, also known as ‘The Merchant’ opens each morning at 8am, serving the finest full Irish breakfast in the city. Taste the award winning Annascaul Black Pudding which is delivered to O’Shea’s straight from their friends in Ned’s native Kerry. Food is served from 8am to 10pm daily. Music Times: Monday to Saturday 9pm and Sunday 6:30pm and 9pm. Located within the old Viking Quarter of Dublin, Ned O’Shea’s is the perfect place to feel the genuine warmth and friendliness of an Irish welcome.

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TEXT | PLACE CO M P OS E D BY

P RO D U C E D BY

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BILL WHELAN

MOYA DOHERTY

JOHN McCOLGAN

“The Original…The Best”

RETURNS HOME June – September 2019 DUBLIN

www.riverdance.com www.ticketmaster.ie Box Office: +353 (0)1456 9569 Groups: groups@gaietytheatre.com In Person at the Gaiety Theatre Box Office VIP Experience Available

Early Bird discount save 20%* 202

*Restrictions apply. Offer ends 31st January 2019


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Dance

SENSATION A FUSION OF IRISH AND INTERNATIONAL MUSIC AND DANCE, RIVERDANCE IS A HIGH ENERGY SHOW THAT ECHOES THE IRISH EXPERIENCE OF EMIGRATION AND RENEWAL.

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he show returns each June from worldwide touring to perform in the beautiful Gaiety Theatre beside St Stephen’s Green in the heart of Dublin city. Many of the current cast of Riverdance dancers and musicians were not even born when the show broke box office records at its premieres at the Point Theatre, Dublin, the Apollo, Hammersmith, London in 1995 and Radio City New York in 1996 The seven minute interval act was first performed at the Eurovision Song Contest and was developed into the electrifying and innovative full length stage show by composer Bill Whelan, Producer Moya Doherty and Director John McColgan. Since those early shows, Riverdance has toured for over two decades across all 6 continents, performing to a live audience of over 25 million people. The global TV audience for the show has reached 3 billion. Riverdance is a fusion of Irish and International music and dance and features a talented cast of lead Irish dancers, the Irish Dance Troupe, the live Riverdance Band and singers and international artists from Russia, Spain and the USA. The Riverdance Irish Dance Troupe are world-class Irish dancers. They hail mostly from Ireland but also from Britain, the United States, Canada

and Australia. Between them the dancers can boast of hundreds of championships won in Ireland and abroad. The story of Riverdance traces the life of a river. The river, from cloud to sea to cloud again, symbolizes the life cycle and echoes the Irish experience of emigration and renewal: people who had left their homeland and traveled across the sea, returned to enrich Ireland with their talents and experience gained abroad. The show as a whole builds on this idea exploring the way people from different lands enrich the countries they emigrate to, bringing with them their own culture, music and dance. Tickets for Riverdance at the Gaiety Theatre Dublin can be booked on www.Ticketmaster.ie/ Riverdance by phone on 353 1 456 9569 or in person at the Gaiety Theatre Box Office on South King Street Dublin 2. A recent addition to the shows in Dublin is the exclusive Riverdance VIP Experience which includes a meet & greet with the lead dancers and some of the cast for individual photos, autographs and conversation.

“The show is quite simply incredible. A phenomenon of historic proportions” - The Washington Times “The sort of spectacle and experience that comes along once in a lifetime.” - The Hollywood Reporter “The original ….the best.” - The Irish Times 203


SHOPPING | DUBLIN

Retail

THERAPY IRELAND’S MOST BEAUTIFUL LIFESTYLE STORE, BROWN THOMAS IS HOME TO AN UNPARALLELED RANGE OF DESIGNER BRANDS.

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SHOPPING | DUBLIN

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rown Thomas is Ireland’s premier luxury department store and part of a global retail family which includes Selfridges in the UK, Holt Renfrew in Canada and deBijenkorf in Holland. This flagship store, and a landmark on Dublin’s Grafton Street since 1849, houses the world’s most prestigious designer brands from fashions and accessories to beauty and home. Featuring the world’s most prestigious luxury boutiques including Tiffany & Co., Hermès, Chanel, Prada, Gucci, Céline, Tom Ford and Louis Vuitton, Brown Thomas has achieved preeminent status, a store that is listed among the best in the world, yet it remains quintessentially Irish and unique. From the doorman’s greeting to the sales consultant’s smile, the bond with the customer is all important. The aim is to ensure that every visitor’s experience at Brown Thomas is a

memorable one, and the team will be delighted to welcome you in store. Personal service is key and Brown Thomas will gladly deliver your shopping to your hotel so that you can enjoy the rest of your day at leisure around the city. If you wish, they can bring a selection of products to you so that you can enjoy shopping in the comfort of your hotel suite. In the case of products over a certain weight, Brown Thomas can organize complimentary shipping to your country of residence. And if you live outside Europe, you will enjoy the benefits of tax free shopping. In essence, wherever your location or whatever your needs, Brown Thomas will deliver in every way possible so that your memories of your visit to Dublin are with you for years to come.

• China Union Pay accepted throughout the store • Mandarin speaking staff throughout the store • Tax Free shopping • Personal shopping appointments for Beauty and Fashion (booking advisable) • Hotel Bag drop available • International delivery

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Discover Dublin’s oldest building, explore the medieval crypt, see the mummified cat and rat and view Ireland’s first copy of Magna Carta. Guided tours which include a visit to the Belfry also available.

For more information visit christchurchcathedral.ie Christ Church Cathedral, Christchurch Place, Dublin 8. T:01-677 8099 E:welcome@christchurch.ie W:christchurchcathedral.ie Christchurch 1/2.indd 1

06/04/2018 15:03

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DART AROUND | DUBLIN

Dart around DUBLIN

IT MAY BE THE CAPITAL CITY, BUT DUBLIN IS REALLY JUST A BIG CAPITAL VILLAGE.

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ubliners are a lively bunch and the best place to really enjoy a good ‘chin wag’ is to pop into one of the city’s 1000 pubs; the city’s favorite social lubricant and one of the most memorable experiences of a visit to Ireland.

The ultimate bar for visitors might be Temple Bar where you can find some of Dublin’s best night spots, restaurants and unusual shops lining narrow, cobbled streets. It was also the birthplace of parliamentarian Henry Grattan. 207


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Skilled craftsmen and artisans, such as clockmakers and printers, lived and worked around Temple Bar until post-post-war industrialisation led to a decline in the area’s fortunes. In the 1970s, the national transport authority bought up parcels of land in the area to build a bus depot. While waiting to acquire the land needed they rented out some of the old retail and warehouse premises to young artists and to record, clothing and book shops. The area developed an “alternative” identity and a successful lobby by local residents persuaded the transport authority to drop their plans. As more cynical Dubliners put it, the area became the city’s “officially designated arts zone”. But while the new investment and planning may have added a slight air of contrivance, it’s still an exciting, atmospheric and essentially very young place. Dublin’s been in the news since the 9th century, and while traces of its Viking past have been largely washed away, the city is a living museum of its history since then, with medieval castles and cathedrals on display alongside the architectural splendours of its 18th century 208


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The train passes sometimes perilously close to the sea cutting through mountain tunnels right alongside Dublin Bay

heyday, when Dublin was the most handsome Georgian city in the British Empire. The easiest way to see it all is to climb aboard one of the ‘hop on, hop off’ bus tours. This takes you to all of the sights and you can get on and off as often as you like on one ticket. If you have a bit more energy there’s also the option of hiring a Dublin bike or a Bleeper Bike – there are stations all over the city and you can pick up a bike at one point and leave it off at the next. Or you might opt to ‘Dart around Dublin’ and take in the glorious seaside towns and pretty coastal villages. A popular trip is to take the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) from the fishing village of Howth in the north of the city right over to Dalkey or Killiney on the south. The train passes sometimes perilously close to the sea cutting through mountain tunnels right alongside Dublin Bay for most of the journey. If the weather is fine this is a magical way to spend a day and you will be rewarded with pretty towns and villages to visit along the way. A stop off in Dalkey is worth the detour to sample a pretty hillside

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town and you might pop into Biddy’s Cottage, always full to the brim with people from all walks of life - many from the US, attracted by the promise of authentic Irish storytelling by the fireside. Biddy’s stories are from the heart and soul of Ireland, past and present, which has made the cottage the number one destination on the international travel website TripAdvisor’s listings of attractions in the area. “I’ve had cowboys from Texas come in, hen nights, farmers, businessmen, walkers, you name it,” Biddy says. “It’s become a magical place.” If the weather is on your side, then you might take a cruise from Dun Laoghaire to Howth. During the 90-minute voyage you can see aspects of Dublin that are not possible on any other mode of transport such as Dalkey island, Clontarf and the world wildlife reserve Bull Island, Baily and Kish Lighthouses, Howth head, Ireland Eye, Lambay Island and Howth Harbour. Dublin Bay Prawns are famous beyond the confines of this little island. Chef and television presenter Rick Stein said that the Dublin Bay prawn is the best he has ever tasted, despite having travelled the world. As you head back from a busy day in Dublin who knows? Prawns might be on the menu tonight! 210

The iconic Christ Church Cathedral in Dublin is at the spiritual heart of the city. With over 1000 years of history it is Dublin’s oldest working structure. The history of Christ Church Cathedral reflects the history, both religious and political, of Ireland. The Cathedral Crypt is one of the largest in the UK and Ireland, dating back to the 12th century. The restored crypt now houses the important Treasures of Christ Church exhibition, together with the superb video of the cathedral history by Louis Marcus. The exhibition features manuscripts and artefacts that give the visitor some impression of nearly one thousand years of worship in the cathedral and nearby churches. Outstanding among the rare church silver is the stunning royal plate given by King William III in 1697 as a thanksgiving for his victory at the battle of the Boyne. Also on display are the conserved tabernacle and the candlesticks used in 1689 under James II when the Latin rites were restored for a three-month period. The Treasury also plays host to a rare 14th Century copy

of the Magna Carta Hiberniae which is the centerpiece of an exhibition launched by the British Ambassador to Ireland in Ireland - think Robin Hood, Richard the Lionheart and King John. Music forms a very important part of cathedral life and the church choir traces its origins back to 1493 with the founding of the choir school. The cathedral choir has always been highly regarded in Dublin’s musical life and took part in the first performance of Handel’s Messiah in Dublin in 1742. With the largest repertoire of any cathedral choir in the country, covering more than five centuries and including many works commissioned especially for it; it is comprised of 22 professional singers led by a full-time Director of Music, Ian Keatley. The cathedral’s deployment of 19 bells, ranging in weight from a quarter of a ton to two and a quarter-tons, represents a world record of numbers of bells available for full-circle ringing. Located at the heart of Dublin city center this former Viking church (now an Anglican cathedral) is well worth a visit.


FABULOUS FINGAL | DUBLIN

Fabulous FINGAL

JUST MINUTES FROM THE HEART OF DUBLIN CITY, FINGAL IS A HISTORIC GEM WITH OLD WORLD CHARM AND SEASIDE VILLAGES APLENTY.

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n the doorstep of the city and home to Dublin International Airport, the Fingal region of Dublin offers the best of Ireland - old world charm, beautiful coastal scenery, great food and a rich heritage. The landscape is diverse, ranging from sleepy rural villages in a rolling country landscape, to bustling coastal villages surrounded by sandy beaches and rugged coastline, and vibrant urban towns of ancient heritage. The area is renowned for its magnificent castles and stately homes, some dating back to the 12th century, and many of which are set amid beautiful gardens in spacious demesnes. Most

notable among these are Malahide Castle, Ardgillan Castle and Newbridge House. There is also a plethora of other buildings of historic, scientific and cultural importance such as Skerries Mills, The National Transport Museum, a Vintage Radio Museum in Howth, and the historic Dunsink Observatory. Fingal’s amazing coastal location is perfect for those with a penchant for outdoor adventure. The expanse of Dublin Bay offers vast open skies, great sweeping beaches, estuaries and coves. If kitesurfing, kayaking, scuba diving or powerboating is your thing, then Fingal has the perfect place for you to indulge, be it in Howth, Malahide or Skerries. Those who enjoy 211


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an invigorating walk or cycle will be spoilt for choice with a trail or loop to suit every ability and taste. And the picturesque open countryside and magnificent sandy coastline provide the essential ingredients for superb parkland and links golf courses. With over 27 courses dotted throughout the area, there is certainly a course to suit every golfer’s ability, taste and pocket. Fingal has become a place to have a true gourmet food experience. It offers a mouthwatering array of restaurants and gastro pubs serving modern Irish cooking that is influenced by the range of chefs working in the area and the abundance of fabulous local ingredients. The rich fertile lands of North County Dublin provide around 55% of the country’s fresh produce. They are also home to two of Ireland’s leading fishing ports, in Howth and Skerries, where fresh seafood lands every day. Fingal has something to offer all tastes and pockets - and if it’s location and atmosphere you are looking for, then there are restaurants and cafés in picturesque historical buildings, on stilts in the water, and even in bank vaults and harbor buildings. The area enjoys a proud 212

reputation for the quality of its diverse array of accommodation, offering style, comfort and elegance combined with the most modern facilities. Choose from luxurious hotels, charming guesthouses and homely B&Bs. For more information, check out www.visitfingal.ie.


NORTH DUBLIN COASTAL VILLAGES Baily Lighthouse, Howth


DINING |DUBLIN

Located within the old Viking Quarter of Dublin, Ned O’Shea’s is the perfect place to feel the genuine warmth and friendliness of an Irish welcome

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Dining

IN DUBLIN GET SPOILT FOR CHOICE ON GREAT RESTAURANTS TO EAT AT IN DUBLIN CITY.

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ublin’s culinary scene has changed considerably in recent years, and the Irish capital is now bursting with creative chefs, cafés and restaurants serving tasty Irish fare and the best of Irish ingredients. For a taste of the traditional, wander around the cobbled streets of Temple Bar all the way to the long-established Gallagher’s Boxty House, run by potato expert Padraic Gallagher. Tuck into one of their signature Boxty pancakes (a traditional Leitrim potato dish) or their delicious

beef and stout stew made with Jack Smith stout beer (brewed by the owner). Just behind Grafton Street and right across from the famous Molly Malone statue you will find O’Neill’s, a cozy Irish pub where you can experience the ‘craic’ as well as traditional Irish food. From a hearty Irish breakfast to bacon and cabbage with parsley sauce, this is a good spot for Irish pub food and banter. When visiting Dublin, you might want to try the city’s most traditional dish, 215


DINING |DUBLIN

Dublin Coddle: a sausage, bacon and potato stew. Right beside the Halfpenny Bridge, the Woollen Mills is the place to tick coddle off your Dublin food bucket list or, if visiting Glasnevin Cemetery, pop in to The Gravediggers pub for classic Irish with a twist. Super shopping in a glorious setting is available at the beautiful Powerscourt Townhouse Centre where you will also find The Pepper Pot, a café that serves wholesome homemade food and sources quality Irish ingredients. They bake everything themselves, from scones to Irish brown soda bread, and their scrambled eggs and sandwiches are to die for. Close by in the basement level of the Little Museum of Dublin meanwhile, you’ll find Hatch & Sons, a compact Irish kitchen that celebrates some of our wonderful produce. Share a board of Irish farmhouse cheeses or smoked fish, or simply try a sandwich made with a ‘blaa’; a soft white roll from Waterford. For a slower-paced morning away from the bustle of the city-center, why not try Fia a lovely neighborhood café in Rathgar? The ethos is to source as much Irish and organic produce as possible. Expect some beautiful fare made with Irish charcuterie from Gubbeen and locally grown vegetables. MODERN IRISH WITH A TWIST Back in the city, the Winding Stair is the sister restaurant of the Woollen Mills, with dining rooms overlooking the River Liffey. The menu has a strong emphasis on food provenance, sourcing quality products from all over Ireland. Not only is Delahunt situated in a stunning historic Victorian building, it also serves some of the best Irish contemporary food in the city. Their Guinness bread and signature home-smoked salmon are second to none, and the menu features the best of whatever’s in season in Ireland. Forest & Marcy is one of the most exciting restaurants around, a mix between a casual restaurant and wine bar, with an incredibly creative chef. The fermented potato bread with bacon and cabbage is worth the trip to Dublin alone. For an unfussy meal, visit the little seafood shack Klaw in the heart of Temple Bar for a 216

seafood chowder, crab claws or other Irish seafood delights. Venture to the Stoneybatter neighborhood on Dublin’s northside, home of the pub L Mulligan Grocer. Here you can sip on some of the best Irish whiskeys, gins or craft beers while enjoying modern pub fare made with a love for real Irish food. Another absolute gem (though impossible to get a weekend table) is Vintage Kitchen, a pop down to restaurant, nestled in the old part of Dublin town between the river Liffey and Trinity college. The best way to find it is to head for Mulligans Pub, a place with a unique and colorful history spanning over two hundred years. Mulligan’s has hosted the famous Judy Garland, Seamus Heaney, Con Houlihan, James Joyce and John F. Kennedy to name but a few. It’s right next door to Vintage Kitchen and when your table is ready, just take your pint in with you to the restaurant and enjoy the most delicious food at amazingly good prices. Whether you’re looking for a traditional Irish dish or contemporary Irish cuisine, one thing is for sure, you’ll never go hungry in Dublin! There are some fantastic food trails for meat-eaters and veggies alike, or, if you’d prefer to really get involved in the city’s culinary offering, check out Make It Yourself, a series of immersive food experiences.


DINING | DUBLIN

Dublin is blessed with many great restaurants but for something a little different that will delight the tastebuds without breaking the bank, head for one of the two Zaytoon locations, winners of Best International Food Ireland 2016. With locations at Camden Street and Parliament street, this is a casual diner offering delicious grilled kebabs served with freshly made Naan bread and cooked in a traditional Persian clay oven. But these are no ordinary kebabs – cooked and presented in the traditional way, Zaytoon has a reputation for having the best kebabs in Ireland. There are no freezers at Zaytoon, so everything is freshly made and only the finest quality ingredients hit the plates. All meat, poultry & fish are Irish and fully traceable. Food is freshly and lovingly prepared daily with no added artificial colorings, flavorings or preservatives. For those who don’t eat meat, there are vegetarian options. Great food at greet prices can be had at 14/15 Parliament Street or 44/45 Camden Street.

Zaytoon

Where Fast Food Meets Great Food! Using quality ingredients our food is hand made fresh - even the bread! www.zaytoon.ie Call (01) 400 5006

14 / 15 Parliament St. Temple Bar, Dublin 2 44-45 Lower Camden St, Dublin 2

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT | DUBLIN

A Taste of Ireland

A Taste

OF IRELAND THERE IS NO LOVE SINCERER THAN THE LOVE OF FOOD ~ GEORGE BERNARD SHAW

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isitors to Ireland have long been drawn by its landscapes, pubs, heritage, and charm. Increasingly, they have been discovering that the culinary scene is worth making the trip. Foodies looking for fresh, local produce will find Ireland hard to beat: all that rain combined with Ireland’s mild climate offers great growing conditions for some of the best raw ingredients in the world. As a small island nation, suppliers are close: The fish is off the boat, the dairy is local, and the meat was raised nearby. And Ireland’s food producers have really come into their own in recent years. From farmers’ markets 218

to microbreweries, traditional pubs to Michelin-starred restaurants, and everything in between, Irish farmers, fishermen, and traditional and artisanal producers are joining inspired chefs for a new wave of culinary inspiration and innovation. Epicureans with an interest in Ireland will want to explore the newest offering from CIE Tours. The Irish Foodie Tour, debuting in June 2019, is a seven-night guided vacation exploring many facets of Ireland’s culinary culture. A host of diverse experiences are on the menu: goat farm visits, seaweed

foraging, chocolate-making, and much more. The company’s 86-year history in the region makes it particularly well-versed in the best of Irish food and drink. Guests will benefit from the extensive knowledge and personal storytelling of CIE Tours’ native guides, who embody Irish hospitality at its finest. Visitors will find that in Ireland, the excellence of the food is well-matched by the warmth of the people who produce it – making a visit to explore Ireland’s food culture and heritage a truly memorable experience.


FOOD FOR THOUGHT | DUBLIN

Trip highlights include: • Tea tour through Dublin aboard a vintage double-decker bus, followed by a visit to The Dublin Liberties Distillery for whiskey education and tastings • Cooking class and friendly “cook-off” competition at Dublin’s premier cooking school, appropriately set in the heart of the city’s creative hub • Visit Cork to visit a family-run farm and sample the incredible cheese and natural yoghurt made thanks to its flock of 400 goats. • Stop at the iconic covered English Market of Cork, which dates to 1788 and offers traditional and artisanal products, including Irish classics like tripe and drisheen. • A scenic drive along the rugged coast to Kerry for a chocolate making class with an award-winning pastry chef • Seashore stroll for seaweed foraging, learning from local experts about the nutritional, horticultural and cosmetic benefits of ocean plants, with an opportunity to sample the superfood fresh from the rocks • Whiskey and chocolate pairing during a special dinner in Killarney • Ferry ride from Kerry to Clare to explore a cheese farm in Inagh, just south of the limestone landscape of the Burren, followed by a trip to the spectacular Cliffs of Moher

Non-foodie highlights include trips to iconic Irish attractions such as Glendalough, the Cliffs of Moher and Blarney Castle. The trip also visits Derrynane House, the ancestral home of Daniel O’Connell, who was instrumental in the making of modern Ireland. Guests will stay in top hotels throughout Ireland during their voyage, including the Clayton Hotel Charlemont in Dublin, The Bayview at

Ballycotton, the Ballygarry House Hotel & Spa in Tralee and the Radisson Blu Hotel & Spa in Limerick. Culinary tours kick-off June 15, July 13, Aug. 17 and Sept. 7 of next year. The package price is per person based on double occupancy and includes all accommodations, on-tour transportation, activities, 17 meals, the insights of a native guide, local taxes and hotel service charges, and more. For more information or to book a tour, visit www.cietours.com, or connect with a travel professional. 219


WILD ABOUT WICKLOW

ExclusivE

spiriT Of irElaNd OffEr Two Nights Bed & Breakfast inclusive of One Evening Meal

from €189 per person sharing Subject to availability, blackout dates apply.

Book direct at +353 1 230 5400 or Email: reservations@fitzpatricks.com Terms & conditions apply. subject to availability. Booking essential. please quote THE spiriT Of irElaNd MagaziNE to avail of offer.

fitzpatrick castle Hotel, Killiney, co. dublin, ireland.

www.fitzpatrickcastle.com 220


WILD ABOUT WICKLOW

Wild about WICKLOW

MOUNTAIN MARVELS, DRAMATIC VALLEYS AND MESMERIZING RUINS OF TIMES LONG SINCE PAST – IT’S NO WONDER WICKLOW IS KNOWN AS THE GARDEN OF IRELAND.

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s a must-see experience along Ireland’s Ancient East, Wicklow truly is a walker’s paradise. From the 127km Wicklow Way to the lush trails of Avondale House and Forest Park, there’s adventure for every level of hiker and nature explorer. Cycling enthusiasts can meander through the series of mountain bike trails in Ballinastoe Forest, offering views of the Sugar Loaf Mountain, before slicing down along singletrack paths through moorland, thicket spruce

and rocky ridges back to the foothills. The stunning Wicklow Mountains National Park combines scenic drives with 20,000 hectares of wild bogland and heath perfect for hill walkers. This treasure trove of nature includes native oak woodland, conifer forests, serene lakes and herds of sika deer scattered throughout. These are the hills in which Irish rebels once hid. They’re the place into which the powerful Powerscourt and Glenmacnass waterfalls spill.

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This treasure trove of nature includes native oak woodland, conifer forests, serene lakes and herds of sika deer scattered throughout. 222


WILD ABOUT WICKLOW

ANCIENT HISTORY The true crown of this nature haven is Glendalough, a monastic settlement founded by St Kevin in the 6th century. Welcoming more visitors each year than anywhere else in the country, the Round Tower, churches and graveyard nestled in this mystical land are crowned by an awesome natural backdrop of soaring mountains and glossy lakes. Further along the trail, explore the beauty of Powerscourt House and Gardens, home to Ireland’s highest waterfall and enveloped in sprawling wildlife and birdsong. Killruddery House has been home to the Brabazon family (earls of Meath) since 1618 and has one of the oldest gardens in Ireland. The house is impressive, but the prizewinner here is the magnificent orangery, built in 1852 and chock-full of statuary and plant life. If you like fancy glasshouses, this is the one for you. Nearby Russborough House and parklands offers outstanding views of Blessignton Lake and the Wicklow Mountains, along with guided

Horse Riding Holidays & Horse Trekking in County Wicklow

Treks available for All levels only 45 mins from Dublin City +353 (0)87 444 5618 wicklowequitours@gmail.com www.wicklowequitours.eu 223


WILD ABOUT WICKLOW

tours of this lavish estate which once entertained the likes of Coco Chanel and Mick Jagger. The house is one of Ireland’s finest stately homes, a Palladian palace built for Joseph Leeson (1705– 83) and later owned by Lord Russborough. Since 1952 the house passed to the Beit family, who founded the DeBeers diamond-mining company and stocked the mansion with a remarkable art collection, including masterpieces by Velázquez, Vermeer, Goya, Rubens and others. STAR OF THE SCREEN Russborough isn’t the only Wicklow spot with star quality. For years, Wicklow has been Hollywood’s movie location of choice in Ireland, with Powerscourt, Kilruddery House and the mountains themselves forming the backdrop for 224

productions including Braveheart, The Count of Monte Cristo and P.S. I Love You, starring Hillary Swank and Gerard Butler. The black abyss of Lough Tay (Guinness Lake) is known as the primary film location for drama series, Vikings, while neighboring Lough Dan also features in this hit television show. Located just thirty minutes south of Dublin City Centre, it’s no wonder Hollywood’s finest want to capture the untamed beauty of this land. As Irish poet Thomas Moore once penned, “There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet.” The wonders of Wicklow are a true sight to behold, here in the heart of Ireland’s Ancient East.

A wild pleasure garden of coastline, woodland and daunting mountains through which runs the country’s most popular walking trail.


GORGEOUS GARDENS | IRELAND

Gorgeous GARDENS

FROM WILD WOODLAND TRAILS TO ELEGANT GARDEN GEMS, HISTORY AND HERITAGE BLOOM AND FLOURISH IN THESE LUSH NATURE HAVENS

POWERSCOURT GARDENS In the wild Wicklow countryside you’ll find 47 acres of sweeping gardens so stunning that they have been voted the third best in the world by National Geographic. As ornate as the Palladian mansion at its centre, the grounds of Powerscourt House encompass walled gardens, Japanese gardens, ornamental lakes and a pet cemetery. Get lost in secret hollows and wooded valleys, culminating in a climb to the top of Pepperpot Tower for a view so breath-taking you’ll remember it for years to come.

BALLYIN GARDENS Welcome to Ballyin Gardens, six acres of lush paradise spanning the north bank of the Blackwater river, just upstream from Lismore Castle in County Waterford. Meander through this 18th century haven, rooted in its historic past through old specimen rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias. Bursts of colour are framed by mature trees, including the Montery Cypress, a towering protector which has stood the test of time.

BORRIS HOUSE GARDENS In the beautiful Barrow Valley in County Carlow, Borris Gardens sit amidst wooded Victorian splendour with a majestic backdrop of Mount Leinster and the Blackstairs Mountains. Explore the Lace Garden, inspired by the colour and designs of the world-famous Borris Lace and envisage life as a laundry maid in the restored Victorian Laundry. Get lost in the parkland of stunning specimen trees and fragrant flora as you explore this natural wonder.

LOUGH DERG GARDEN TRAIL Traipse through a collection of eight beautiful gardens on the Lough Derg Garden Trail. Following the lake from Portumna to Ballina-Killaloe, expect a symphony of roaming wildlife and manicured landscapes in the midst of castles, houses and even bird aviaries. From the quaint and colourful spread at the Woodland Cottage Garden in Birr, County Offaly, to the soft sounds of the Little Brosna river flowing through Fancroft Mill in County Tipperary, you’re sure to find the garden of your dreams. 225


GORGEOUS GARDENS | IRELAND

Magnificent formal designs, sweeping terraces, walled gardens and rambling walks all highlight the magnificent variety of Irish gardens. Featuring a massive range of flora and fauna, from naturally native to totally tropical, every garden has its own treasures and charms.

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GORGEOUS GARDENS | IRELAND

Irish Working Sheepdogs

ALTAMONT GARDENS An enchanting blend of native trees and exotic plants, Altamont Gardens in County Carlow offers an idyllic riverside ramble perfumed with the scent of flourishing flora. Lawns adorned by sculpted yew trees slope down to a lake surrounded by rhododendrons and lead on to exotic shrubs and an arboretum of ancient oaks. Ecosystems exist side by side, with a Bog Garden and an Ice Age Glen key features in this 16-hectare garden.

JAPANESE GARDENS Designed by Colonel William Hall Walker with the expertise of master horticulturalist, Tassa Eida, the National Stud’s Japanese Gardens in Tully, County Kildare, are said to be the finest of their kind in Europe. Tracing the ‘Life of Man’ from birth through to the afterlife, the gardens boast plants, stone lanterns and elegant Scots Pines as well as cherry trees, tunnelled pathways and an ancient fir tree, symbolising knowledge. Discover a narrative pathway like no other at this thought-provoking and exquisitely executed haven from a busy world.

Nestled at the heart of the Wicklow Mountains, in the vale of Glendalough, is the chance to experience a taste of true Irish heritage. Michael Crowe, a renowned sheepdog handler offers you a memorable experience of seeing working border collies in action. Gods Cottage, Derrybawn, Glendalough, Co. Wicklow, Phone Michael: 087 814 1391 Email: irishworkingsheepdogs@gmail.com

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Listoke 1777 Small Batch Irish Gin A Life Well Lived, A Gin Well Loved. Distilled in the Boyne Valley , Listoke 1777 award winning gin comes to you inspired by the sounds, smells and tastes of the heart of Ireland’s Ancient East. Every single drop we distil of Listoke 1777 Irish Gin pays homage to its ingredients, its history and it’s process, bringing the ancient art of distilling into the new age with an iStill. A robust and well rounded gin, the flavour lingers long after the last sip. Enjoy with ice, a premium tonic, a peel of orange and good company. Visiting Ireland? Why not call into our gin school and design and distil your bespoke bottle of gin to bring home? Visit our website: www.listokedistillery.ie

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Ginformation W

hile many assume that gin was discovered in the UK, it was actually discovered when the English were fighting the Thirty Years’ War in 17th century Holland where they saw Dutch soldiers drinking Jenever to boost morale before heading into battle. The term ‘Dutch Courage’ was born, and the English brought the idea of making and drinking gin back with them. Juniper was regarded as an anti-septic, anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial. Tonic Water made with natural Quinine is an anti – inflammatory thus Gin and Tonic are good for you! Gin is now the biggest growth sector in drink sales and even the humble tonic has had a makeover with a plethora of designer tonics now available. The number of Irish gins continues to grow rapidly; at last count it was 43, but that may have increased by the time you read this. Ireland now even has a Gin and Tonic festival, several gin cruises and even a Gin School.

THAT’S THE SPIRIT! Listoke Distillery and Gin School are situated in the heart of Ireland Ancient East where there is a long history of distilling and a new abundance of distilleries. Listoke is the only dedicated and largest gin distillery in Ireland. Using the newest in modern technology, the iStill, Listoke 1777 gin is consistently premium with every batch. It is this consistency and pureness in distilling that has made Listoke 1777 Irish Gin the best gin in Europe 2018 as well as having won two Gin Masters in 2017. The secret to a great gin is the botanicals. The recipe for Listoke 1777 was inspired by a bountiful array of fauna and flowers growing in the wild around the Boyne Valley. There are nine ingredients, perfectly balanced in the blend. Five traditional ingredients, juniper, coriander seeds, angelica root, orris root and cassia bark form the base then sweet orange, a surprising and uncommon ingredient in Irish gin. Wild Irish rowan

berries add tartness. Jasmine adds a floral burst while cardamom provides a final, unexpected, yet welcome spice right at the end of the delivery. Wow, imagine the taste explosion of that?! Described as “a most pleasant yet complex spirit,” it is in fact so pleasant that the whiskey ambassadors at Dublin airport considers it to have a delivery comparable to a whiskey. Praise indeed! Listoke 1777 Irish Gin - a life well lived a gin well loved. 229


GINFORMATION

Does Gin grow onTrees? IN PART YES. IN GOOD CONDITIONS THE JUNIPER BUSH CAN GROW TO BE A SMALL SIZED TREE.

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ike holly, juniper is an evergreen conifer. It is also dioecious, meaning that male and female flowers grow on separate trees. Once pollinated by wind, the green female flowers develop into fleshy, purple, aromatic, berry-like cones. The good news is, you can grow a flourishing juniper bush from sapling to shrub whatever your space – whether that’s in a garden, allotment or concrete jungle. Once planted, each bush requires little pruning and could live up to 170 years! But if you don’t want to wait that long, head for Castle Leslie in County Monaghan where you can witness an entire gin wall and choose from a menu offering almost 100 varieties of gin. Better still, try their very own specially created tipple called The Fighting Bishop. Bishop John Leslie, the first of the Leslies in Ireland, was Bishop of the Isles of Scotland. Known as the ‘Fighting Bishop’, he was involved in the Battle of Raphoe against Cromwell. He bought Glaslough Castle and Demesne in 1665 (now Castle Leslie). He died at the ripe old age of 100 in 1671 so he deserves a great gin named after him! 230

The Fighting Bishop is produced to the Leslie recipe by Listoke Distillery & Gin School. It is an earthy style of gin incorporating the Bishop’s Beach Leaves & botanicals handpicked from the trees planted by the bishop on Castle Leslie Estate. The Leslie family still reside at this magnificent Monaghan pile and welcoming guests is firmly embedded in their DNA. The castle hit the headlines in 2002 when Sir Paul McCartney married Heather Mills in the family church on the estate followed by a lavish wedding banquet at the castle. Many famous faces have frequented Castle Leslie over the years including WB Yeats, Michael Collins, Mick Jagger and The Churchill family. That said, everybody is treated like one of the family here and now with the return of the fighting bishop, it’s the perfect time to visit.

Infused with a sense of timelessness and adventure, The Fighting Bishop incorporates beach leaves and botanicals handpicked on the Castle Leslie Estate


GINFORMATION

t he cast le | t h e lodg e | t h e old s ta b le m e w s

A rural retreat in the heart of Ireland…

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estled on 1,000 acres of undulating Irish countryside, dotted with ancient woodland and glittering lakes, Castle Leslie Estate is one of the last great Irish estates still in the hands of its founding family. Steeped in history, full of character and charm, it is the ultimate Irish rural escape.

Only 80 minutes from Dublin and 60 minutes from Belfast, Castle Leslie Estate boasts a variety of accommodation and activities to suit all tastes. The Castle, at the heart of the Estate, offers authentic original interiors and old-style hospitality and is a complete respite from the world. The Lodge is the social hub of the Estate, a country house boutique hotel that brings locals and guests together in an atmosphere of conviviality and comfort. The Old Stable Mews and Village Cottages are the perfect spot for groups that want the convenience of hotel living combined with private luxury home rental.

Castle Leslie Estate, Glaslough, Monaghan

Castle Leslie Estate offers an idyllic setting for outdoor activity and adventure. Explore the Estate on horseback, enjoy some of Ireland’s finest coarse fishing, take in a movie at our private cinema, luxuriate in a relaxing massage in the Victorian treatment rooms, exhilarate in a abundance of outdoor adventures, or just borrow a pair of wellies from our boot room and go for a stroll on our 1,000 acres – just some of the choices that await you in this hidden corner of Ireland.

t: + 353 47 88 100

www.castleleslie.com 231


Your Long Lost Ancestors

Located in County Offaly, in the Midlands of Ireland, and bordering the town of Tullamore near the Shannon River, Charleville Castle is situated in Ireland’s most ancient primordial oak woods, once the haunting grounds of Ireland’s druids.

Who Do You Think THEY Were ? Research all over Ireland North & South especially Cork City & County

Charleville Castle Tullamore, Co. Offaly, Ireland. Ph: 057 9323040 info@charlevillecastle.com

Special Interests: Names, Social History & Local History

For Free Evaluations Quote Spirit of Ireland

genealogyinireland@gmail.com 18:59 JOYCE COUNTRY SHEEPDOGS05/09/2018 Charleville castle 1/4.indd

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SHEEPDOG DEMONSTRATIONS

Joyce Country Sheepdogs is part of a third generation family run working hill sheep farm at the the foothills of the Maumturk and Partry mountains. Located in Connemara on the West of Ireland only ten miles from the Wild Atlantic Way. The farm offers visitors a chance to interact with puppies and the opportunity to watch live border collie sheepdog herding demonstrations. Stories unfold as you journey through the farm learn how the farm played a small part in the movie ‘Marley and me’. The Joyce’s are delighted to share their love of sheep farming and dog handling with all visitors, young and old.

CONTACT: Address: Phone: E-mail: Website:

Shanafaraghaun, Finny, Clonbur, Co. Galway +353 (0) 94 95 48853 info@joycecountrysheepdogs.ie www.joycecountrysheepdogs.ie

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GENEALOGY | REACHING OUT

Reaching Out IRISH EMIGRATION IS A HUGE SUBJECT HISTORICALLY, SOCIALLY AND GENEALOGICALLY. THIS IS BORNE OUT BY THE FACT THAT SOME 80 MILLION PEOPLE AROUND THE WORLD CLAIM IRISH DESCENT.

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n the early 1840’s, the population of Ireland was almost 9 million - 3 million of whom were destitute, primarily due to evictions by absentee landlords. 130 Workhouses were built throughout Ireland between 1841 and 1843 to house the poor, hence the Irish name of Teach na mBocht - The Poorhouse.

The poor had to apply for admission to the workhouse and successful applicants had to surrender any land before entering as inmates. The first poor were admitted to Carrickmacross Workhouse on Saturday, 11th February 1843. Once admitted, they were subjected to a strict regime: families were segregated and forbidden 233


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from seeing each other without permission; their diet was meagre and unvarying; difficult, and often pointless, work had to be undertaken; there was little heat and no comfort. These deliberately harsh conditions meant that workhouses quickly became known as the Poor Man’s Jail, and the poor only applied for admission as a last resort. In 1520, Catholics owned 100% of the land. However, after three centuries of plantations, confiscations, evictions, Penal Laws and colonialism, approximately 90% of the land belonged to Anglo-Irish Protestant landlords, with the Catholics as their tenants. As tenants, they produced massive quantities of agricultural produce and livestock which they had to sell to pay their rent, or face eviction. This left the majority of the native population solely dependent on potatoes for food, as they were cheap to purchase, could be grown in small plots of poor soil, and were high in nutrition. Then, for four consecutive years, 1845 to 1848, blight destroyed the potato harvest across Europe. The British Government sent approximately 20,000 additional troops to Ireland to ensure people did not eat the thousands of tones of other crops, vegetables and animals being exported by landlords for profit. This resulted in The Great Hunger, An Gorta Mór, and the poor begged for admission to the Workhouses. Carrickmacross Workhouse was built to house 500, however by 1851, nearly 2,000 men, women and children were crammed into the building. Due to the large numbers of children in workhouses, many of whom were orphaned by The Great Hunger, the English Government’s Secretary of State for the Colonies, Earl Grey, devised the Pauper’s Emigration Scheme. Under this scheme, between 1848 and 1850, 4,114 girls between the ages of 14 and 18 were emigrated from Irish workhouses to Australia as wives and servants of the settlers and convicts there. Death and emigration, whether voluntary or forced, gradually reduced numbers in the workhouses until only the destitute, sick and 234

elderly remained. At their first meeting on 21st January 1919, the newly formed Dáil Éireann ‘abolished the odious, degrading and foreign Workhouse System’. An Gorta Mór, The Great Hunger, proved a watershed in Irish history, permanently changing the island’s demographic, political and cultural landscape. Within 20 years, 1841 to 1861, Ireland lost half of its population, with an estimated 1½ million people dead from starvation and disease, and a further three million emigrated, primarily to America, Australia, Canada and England. In 2008, an estimated 80 million people worldwide claimed Irish descent, and Ireland’s bond with her diaspora has been acknowledged since our second Constitution in 1937. Article 2 of Bunreacht na hÉireann states that, ‘the Irish nation cherishes its special affinity with people of Irish ancestry living abroad who share its cultural identity and heritage.’


GENEALOGY | FAMILY TREE

Tracing your FAMILY TREE

YOU’VE FILLED IN YOUR FAMILY TREE AND YOU’VE SEEN THE RECORDS ONLINE, BUT NOTHING QUITE BEATS THE UNFORGETTABLE FEELING OF COMING HOME LIKE SEEING IRELAND WITH YOUR OWN EYES.

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ou’ve traced the twists and turns of your family tree, you’ve tracked down records online. In fact, you’ve done everything you can possibly do from afar. Now is the time to come home to the place where a new chapter begins. Genealogy isn’t just about finding out about the names connected to you and your loved ones. It’s about discovering what your ancestors did, how they lived their lives, the impact they had in their local community – and how brave they were to bid farewell to these green lands all those years ago, often starting their lives over again.

These bits of information are the last pieces of a puzzle that spans lifetimes. What started with sepia-toned photographs handed down from generation to generation and searching online records, ends on the island of Ireland with a place you can call home. From tiny stone houses that perch on gorsecovered hills to red-brick terraces lining the streets of Ireland’s largest cities, everywhere comes with its own folklore, its own tales to tell. Your journey could take you anywhere – along the crashing coast of the Wild Atlantic Way, 235


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through the golden vales and ancient constructs of Ireland’s Ancient East, and towards the drama and savage beauty of the Causeway Coastal Route and Northern Ireland. GETTING STARTED Before you embark on this great journey, talk to your family. It makes no sense to spend days trawling through databases to find out your great-grandmother’s surname if someone in the family already knows it. So, first talk to parents, aunts, uncles, cousins, grandparents - find out what they know before they’re gone for good. Most families have at least one individual who keeps track of the extended network of relatives, and if you can buttonhole him or her, you’re off to a good start. What you’ll uncover depends on the quality of the surviving records for the area of origin, on the point where you start and the most important ingredient of Irish research, luck. For the descendants of Catholic tenant-farmers, the limit is generally the starting date of the local Catholic parish records. It would be unusual for records of such a family to go back much earlier than the 1780s, and for most people the early 1800s is the more likely limit. In Gaelic culture genealogy was of crucial importance, but the collapse of that culture in the 17th century, and its subsequent impoverishment and oppression in the 18th century, left a gulf that is almost unbridgeable. That said, exceptions immediately spring to mind. One Australian family, starting with only the name of their great-grandfather, his occupation and the date of his departure from Ireland, uncovered enough information through parish registers and State records of births, marriages and deaths to link him incontestably to the Garveys of Mayo, for whom an established pedigree is registered in the Genealogical Office stretching back to the 12th century. An American family, knowing only a general location in Ireland and a marriage that took place before emigration, discovered that marriage in the pedigree of the McDermotts of 236

Coolavin, which is factually verified as far back as the 11th century. Discoveries like this are rare, however, and are much likelier for those of Anglo-Irish extraction than those of Gaelic or Scots Presbyterian extraction. ONLINE RESOURCES For Irish online research, the glass is both half-empty and half-full. A huge quantity of irreplaceable records was blown up in 1922 almost all 19th century censuses, to name just one - and nothing will ever bring them back. On the other hand, there are only four universally relevant sources, civil records, church registers, censuses and tax surveys, and nearly all of them that survived is online and free. The easiest win for most people starting out is the free National Archives of Ireland census website. It’s plain but powerful and serves up images of the original returns for the earliest complete censuses, 1901 and 1911, complete with greatgrand-parents’ signatures and overviews of names, family relationships and occupations. The next step will usually be to search the civil records of births, marriages and deaths. Registration began for everyone in 1864, with non-Catholic marriages starting in 1845. The indexes are free to search up to 1958 at the Mormon site FamilySearch (familysearch.org/ search/collection/1408347). The Department

You’ve traced the twists and turns of your family tree; you’ve tracked down records online. In fact, you’ve done everything you can possibly do from afar. Now is the time to come home to the place where a new chapter begins.


GENEALOGY | FAMILY TREE

of Culture, Heritage and the Gaeltacht runs an excellent free site at irishgenealogy.ie that includes full images of the original registers (births 1864-1916, marriages 1870-1941 and deaths 1878-1966). Griffith’s Valuation (1847-1864) is a vast and minutely detailed property survey carried out to assess local taxes. As things stand, it’s the only comprehensive census substitute before 1901. It’s free online at askaboutireland.ie. Like the census site, askaboutireland doesn’t take variant surname spellings into account, so ingenuity may be required. One of its glories, however, is the huge collection of accompanying valuation maps, overlaid on contemporary Google maps, making it possible to match the precise locations of houses and field boundaries in the 1850s with what survives today. The last of the universally relevant sources is the most important and the trickiest. For the years before civil registration in 1864, church registers of baptisms, marriages and burials are virtually the only direct sources of family information. Roman Catholic registers generally start in the late 1700s or early 1800s in the more prosperous East and South-East, but only in the 1840s or later in poorer western counties. Almost all pre-1880 Catholic registers have been microfilmed by the National Library and digital images of the microfilms are freely available at registers.nli.ie. They can be hard going. Two commercial genealogy sites, FindMyPast and Ancestry, have transcribed them, with access free only on FindMyPast. Another commercial site, rootsireland.ie, has been making transcripts since the 1980s and covers about 80 per cent of pre-1900 registers. One significant difference is that the rootsireland transcripts were made from the originals, not microfilm, and the difference in the quality of the transcripts can be striking. The Church of Ireland was the state church until 1870 and after disestablishment parish records before that date were regarded as public records. As a result, a large number were in the Public Record Office in 1922 and were

destroyed. The largest collection of original registers is in the Representative Church Body Library in Dublin, which also maintains an online listing of what was destroyed and what survived (goo.gl/4eHlIZ). The Public Record Office of Northern Ireland has an excellent collection of microfilm of records of all denominations in the nine counties of Ulster (goo.gl/ok8NuR). Presbyterian records can be hard to track down. The best collection is in The Public Record Office of Northern Ireland, with a lot of material also in the Presbyterian Historical Society. Detailed guides to which records are where can be found at www.johngrenham.com. The site is free for light users, with a soft paywall for more persistent souls. Claire Santry’s Irish Genealogy News (irishgenealogynews.com) is the go-to site for all news of record releases and publications and also includes a free Irish Genealogy Toolkit which gives a good overview of what’s available. Publicly-funded websites such as IrishGenealogy.ie, genealogy.nationalarchives.ie, askaboutireland. ie, databases.dublincity.ie and nidirect.gov.uk/ proni have gone about supplying the tools to make that possible.

Genealogy isn’t just about finding out about the names connected to you and your loved ones. It’s about discovering what your ancestors did, how they lived their lives, and how brave they were to bid farewell to these shores all those years ago.

The result is that most people of Irish origin can now take their family back to the second quarter of the 19th century quickly and easily and, for the most part, without payment. 237


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Coming HOME

A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY GAVE KATHLEEN CREEGAN A NEW SENSE OF PURPOSE AND A WHOLE NEW FAMILY.

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hen her husband passed away, Kathleen undertook a journey to Ireland that taught her more than she could ever have imagined about herself, her family and her place right here, on a little island at the edge of the Atlantic. Like many a dreamer, Kathleen had always had a special slot for Ireland on her bucket list. “As a proud Irish American,” she says, “I had an unexplainable feeling deep in my soul to go to the place where my story began.” As a little girl living in Manhattan, Kathleen grew up surrounded by the green glow of her parents’ Irish heritage. Each year as the St Patrick’s Day parade marched down Fifth Avenue, her father would point to the County Leitrim banner, proudly announcing, “Remember, Kathleen, that’s where our people are from.” His aunt had emigrated to 238

New York from the Wild Rose County in the early 1900s – and it was armed with her birth record from 1885, and a photo of her own father, that Kathleen left for her first trip to Ireland. “I couldn’t believe what I was looking at!” After a chance encounter in a Galway pub with a local whose geographical knowledge was sound, Kathleen headed for Leitrim and the town of Cloone, from where her father’s ancestors, the Creegans, hailed. Strolling through the graveyard of the church listed on his aunt’s birth record, Kathleen spied a gravestone inscribed with a familiar name: her great-grandmother’s. A flurried heartbeat and a few hurried photos later, and Kathleen was ready to sit down and take it all in. But the day’s surprises were just beginning. Just down the road from the graveyard sat a bright little pub, right at the village’s edge, with a family


GENEALOGY | COMING HOME

crest swinging gently beneath a single surname: Creegans. Kathleen made a beeline and was greeted by a man who introduced himself as the owner, Tommy. “I showed him Aunt Annie’s paperwork and he called his sister Dolores over,” remembers Kathleen. Dolores took one look at her flame-haired visitor and wasted no time in announcing – “You’re a Creegan red!” As it turned out, the Creegans were the first of many soon-to-be-discovered cousins. For Kathleen, that sense of belonging is irreplaceable. “Even though I’ve never met my grandparents and great-grandparents, now I know who they are and I’ve seen where they came from. They belong to me and I never imagined the peace and fulfillment that would bring me.” Later on, another cousin, Mossi, took Kathleen to the site of the old family homestead. “Seeing where my grandmother played as a child was a dream come true. I took stones from the land and when I returned home, I placed them at my father’s grave in Fort Lee, New Jersey, and my grandmother’s grave in the Bronx.” It wasn’t just her blood relatives that made

Kathleen feel at ease in Ireland, either. “I felt looked after and cared for – I’ve traveled throughout Ireland by myself and always felt safe. It’s actually a great place to come if you are travelling alone, because everyone is so friendly. There was not one person that I met, old or young, who didn’t make me feel welcomed!” It’s this characteristic friendliness that has already led Kathleen to 26 of the island’s 32 counties. “The Gap of Dunloe is stunning and I’ve also enjoyed the political tours in Belfast and Derry. Kenmare and Kinsale are beautiful – next on my list is the Donkey Sanctuary in County Cork!”

It feels like I’m going home when I go back to Ireland. When you walk around you get that feeling, my ancestors walked here, my ancestors saw this view.

As for making another trip? “It feels like I’m going home when I go back to Ireland,” says Kathleen. “When you walk around, you get that feeling: my ancestors walked here, my ancestors saw this view. The mountain is the same. The fields are the same.” She pauses. “I’d gone to Ireland just for a vacation, and when I left, I had new family.” ©Ireland.com 239


Long standing family run business in the heart of Galway City and the quaint village of Cong. We specialize and stock a wide range of traditional Aran hand-knitted and hand loomed sweaters and cardigans, children ware, accessories and much more.

TAX FREE SHOPPING

Galway Woollen Market 21 High Street Galway City 091 562491

Galway Woollen Market Circular Road Cong Co Mayo

FREE WORLDWIDE SHIPPING


CRAFT | IRELAND

Crafted in IRELAND

GO BACK IN TIME THROUGH THOUSANDS OF YEARS, OR TRAVEL THOUSANDS OF MILES, AND YOU’LL FIND A COMMON THREAD LINKING PEOPLE TOGETHER. WE ALL MAKE THINGS, AND WE ARE CONNECTED BY THE THINGS WE MAKE. 241


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rom humble pottery dishes, to painted ceramic tiles, to the rich adornments on Celtic jewelry; the stories of the things we have made tell of necessity, ingenuity, and a desire to decorate and express ourselves. Craft is alive and well in Ireland and is the mothership for a whole slew of cottage industries around the country. Skills such as textile making, jewelry making, pottery, ceramics and wood turning represent the marrow of small Irish craft businesses.

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In purely economic terms, the value of the Irish craft business to Ireland’s economy is praiseworthy and growing. There are estimated to be almost 2,500 clients craft enterprises registered in Ireland right now, providing around 6,000 people with gainful employment. A recent report concluded that Irish craft and design is currently worth almost €500m to the Irish economy. Some analysts have estimated the value of the industry to the Irish economy could rise to €700 million within the next three years


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periods. These days, you’re more likely to come across cottage industries based in the homes of urban dwellers, on farm yards in rural areas or in small enterprise units staffed by a small group of people working on a part-time basis. Irish people are strong minded and our views of what stirs the blood, what is rare and precious, are reflected in the quality of our craftwork. Our love of textiles, fine clothes, art and jewelry speak volumes about where our hearts lie. Ireland is an island that shapes our outlook on Mother Nature, on our relationship with our neighbors and on our landscape and who we are as a people. Our craftwork reflects the entire gamut of what makes the Emerald Isle such a magnet for so many visitors who note that Irish designers and manufacturers of craftwork are making waves at home and abroad. These hugely successful entrepreneurs are using their innate skills and traditional techniques to create must-have works and they continue to portray Ireland’s ancient Celtic culture and our heritage via their goods in a way that buyers at home and abroad cannot resist. It’s over 10 years now since Irish craftwork underwent a revival akin to that which transformed people’s perception and appreciation of Irish traditional music back in the sixties and seventies. Spooling forward, the advent of the noughties heralded the emergence of a new breed of Irish craft groups. They quickly acquired a name for producing exciting, designled products which embraced both traditional and new techniques. with employment rising to about 7,600 jobs. No wonder then that Irish craft and design is being targeted by the Government as one of the potential growth areas in the domestic economy. Of course, cottage industries have always been common in Ireland. Indeed, 50 years ago when a large proportion of the population was engaged in agriculture, a big percentage of the farming community invariably turned to selling their wares along the roadside or at fairs for extra income during the relatively barren winter

From humble pottery dishes, to painted ceramic tiles, to the rich adornments on Celtic jewelry; the stories of the things we have made tell of necessity, ingenuity, and a desire to decorate and express ourselves.

The market quickly latched onto this new wave of designers/makers and, aided by the Design and Crafts Council of Ireland, dozens and dozens of cottage industries were born encompassing the worlds of ceramics, jewelry, textiles, wood turners and a host of other groups specializing in high quality, genuine Irish craft products. Winding fast forward to 2018, Irish craftwork has seldom been more popular or visible with a number of specialist craft and design shops – stocking individual craft products – 243


Makers of the original claddagh ring since 1750 The Claddagh Ring grows daily in popularity because of its unique design, peculiar history, sentimental appeal and close association with Ireland. All rings are cast in one piece and hand finished, guaranteeing true craftsmanship and excellence. All rings are stamped ‘Original’ on the inside and hallmarked by the Irish Assay Office, a trusted seal of quality located in Dublin Castle.

Thomas Dillions are the only original claddagh makers still in existence since 1750. Quay Street, Galway, Ireland Phone: +353 (0) 91 566 365 E-mail: info@claddaghring.ie

14/15 cornstore, augustine street

www.claddaghring.ie

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pock marking the busiest shopping streets in our cities. And it’s not also on the shelves of marquee retail shops in Dublin, Cork, Limerick, Belfast etc that this handy-work is appearing. In the past five years, there has been an explosion in interest for hand-made Irish goods in the US and Britain. The export market for Irish craft has never been more buoyant than at present with knitwear designers, candle-makers, jewelry designers etc all seeing a steady increase in demand for their hand-made, high-quality pieces in deference to the mass-produced craft items. Each January, Showcase Ireland’s Creative Expo takes place at the RDS, attended by buyers from some 40 countries. Last year, €20 million worth of Irish

craft products were sold at the event. Irish fashion items, jewelry, accessories, textiles, furniture, glass, ceramics and leather continue to light up pop-up shops, trade shows, markets, galleries, craft events, workshops, festivals and exhibitions all around the world. The country’s most exciting and creative designer-makers are on a roll right now and their products are very much de-riguer at home and abroad. The story of Irish craft remains an uplifting one. Ireland Inc continues to be well served by our people whose skills, work ethic and grá for their craft means that Ireland’s cottage industries are as safe as a house.

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Wearable Art

It is said that the giving of a gift tells as much about the giver as the receiver. Getting the gift of a Liz Christy scarf or wrap says a lot. A Textile Designer and Hand-weaver, Liz is entranced by color and makes hand-woven scarves and wraps, ‘Wearable Art - Inspired by Art’. Be it the work of Impressionism, a Patrick Kavanagh poem or the beauty of nature, Liz sees the colors conveyed and captures them. Working in her studio in the Co. Monaghan countryside, Liz hand dyes her own wool. The color she imbues in her pieces strikes a resounding cord with the art that inspires her; be it the hazy purples of Impressionism, the earthy hues of a Kavanagh poem or the greens and nuanced colors of nature. So, it is the lover of art, poetry and nature who will love a Liz Christy piece. Someone who appreciates the input of time will love Liz’s work, which is all Handwoven in Ireland. Heirloom pieces, yet they are utterly fresh, exuding style and panache. FINDING INSPIRATION The creative instinct of artists, photographers, craft workers and writers have long responded to the unique atmosphere of Ireland’s light and dramatic landscape. Linda Ní hAiniféin is one of many inspired by her surroundings. A native of Ballyferriter, a small Gaeltacht village west of Dingle town, she returned home when she finished her ceramic degree in Limerick’s School of Art and Design. Her love for the Dingle Peninsula and its rich heritage and unique history helps inspire the ceramic art that Linda creates. Linda blends local clay, stones and sand with stoneware clay 246


CRAFT | IRELAND

to create original art inspired by the archeocultural aspects of the Dingle area, the ruins of churches both humble and grand, the standing stones and beehive huts, the sundials and stone crosses. A unique aspect of her work is the use of language both modern and ancient, integrating Ogham and other symbolic inscriptions. Irish symbolism is used in many art forms being particularly beautiful in hand crafted jewelry. Tucked away on the rugged West Coast, Ireland’s leading goldsmith is far from any high street but on the remote Dingle Peninsula Brian de Staic is closer to the Celtic heritage his life’s work embraces. Brian’s work embraces the many myths, legends and symbols of Ireland including Ogham, with handcrafted jewelry that can be engraved with your name, or a message for your loved one in the original Ogham script. The name Ogham is derived from Oghma, the Celtic God of elocution or fine speech. Ogham is an ancient linear script and is the first known written language of Ireland. Even though Ireland is a relatively small country it packs quite a punch on the craft scale. Inspiration is found around every corner; it’s as if Ireland is the last place in the world that magic still exists.

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Crossogue Preserves is an award winning artisan jam company based in Tipperary, Ireland. To find out more about Crossogue Preserves and for recipe ideas go to

www.crossoguepreserves.com

Address: Crossogue, Ballycahill, Thurles, Co. Tipperary, Ireland. Email: info@crossoguepreserves.com Follow Crossogue Preserves on Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn

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Wild about

DESIGN W

ild Design Collective Cork, home to 32 Irish craft business, is a new and unique concept in supporting and promoting craft businesses. The brainchild of Bronwyn Connolly, who saw a niche in the market for a business that nurtures craft start-ups while also providing a platform to sell and showcase their wares. The company works closely with craft businesses on all aspects of operating and building a craft business. “We are so proud of the crafters we work with,” explains Bronwyn, “there is phenomenal talent here in Cork” Bronwyn is clearly passionate about supporting craft start-ups and her main aim is to prove that there is a better way of doing business while building a more conscious business model that is people centered and mindful of the environment. It is her belief that Ireland’s craft sector could be the key to building a successful, sustainable domestic economy. “It has been a fantastic ten months and we have many exciting plans in the pipeline,” she says. “We will be launching WildDesign.ie along with a corporate gifting programme at our first birthday party in October”. Celebrations certainly seem appropriate within this stunning store where Bronwyn has created a unique, original and inspirational space offering a carefully curated selection of natural skincare, artwork, jewelry and homewares. The store has quickly become the ‘go to’ place in Cork for gifts and craft lovers. The online offering will expand the store far and wide so that everybody who is wild about design can benefit. 249


CRAFT | BAGS

Bags of BEAUTY

JUST GET A BAG, DROP A DREAM IN IT AND YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT WILL HAPPEN!

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t the foot of North Carolina’s Smoky Mountains in the USA is a leather shop specializing in stitching supple Irish leather and the finest Irish linen thread into handbags and other luxury leather goods. The owner of this shop, Andy Langlois, has been traveling back to west Kerry for the past 30 years after making it his home for a time. He returns home to Kerry to choose leather and supplies, but also to find inspiration for new products in the uniquely woven culture of the land, people, seas, and skies of Ireland.

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When designing a bag, he thinks about the rugged western Irish coast with its rocky shores, innumerable types of rain, and the hardy folk to who seek their livelihood in the honest work found at sea or the nearby fields. He considers quiet afternoons on peaceful days spent listening to the water lap the rocks as the sun shines down, or the low tide hours when the boats are lying canted in the docks and the pubs are loud with the din of good fellowship. These bags, like this place, need to work but also to be as effortlessly beautiful and unique as the place that inspires them.


CRAFT | BAGS

In addition to the bags, there are inspired items for the home and social engagements as well as daily wear items that can last a lifetime of use. A new line of bar and home products are on the bench and website of his shop, including handmade beverage coasters for mugs, pints, and even shot glasses. There are also placemats for fine dining. There are liquor bags for formal or casual carriage to an event hosted by friends old or new. You can dress up your daily life, your table, or your social engagements with this custom crafted line-up. Additionally, a new line of belts to complement the longstanding quality items already being made are both beautiful and long wearing. He uses a fine quality bridle leather individually cut and fashioned one at a time from the finest hides. They’re finished smartly with the timeless elegance of sturdy brass buckles. These belts look great in the office or an excursion into the wilds of West Kerry. These products can be found at the website: www.irishbagcompany.com with free shipping to the USA and EU and at his stockist on Green Street in Dingle, Sweet Pea Gift Shop. Spirit of Ireland Magazine readers will get a discount at checkout using the sale code “Spirit”. 251


Born in the bog Made in Ireland

Order ethical, Irish-made beanies online from County Donegal with bogman.ie Our hats are 100% Donegal Tweed Yarn. Bogman Beanies is a lifestyle brand, born in the bogs of Donegal and made from natural fibres and colours. Headwear that breathes and keeps your head warm and dry. All our raw materials are traceable - the importance of transparency cannot be overlooked. Drawing inspiration from the bog, continuously driven to support the environment.

www.bogmanbeanie.com


IRISH DESIGN

Proud to BE IRISH

THE IRISH ARE SAID TO WEAR THEIR HEART ON THEIR SLEEVE. BY WEARING IRISH THEY DO JUST THAT BOTH AT HOME AND ABROAD.

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earingIrish is a platform that provides designers, shoppers and influencers with access and exposure to each other. It makes this connection tangible by selecting designers to display their creations and meet the New York community. While helping designers build their individual brands, WearingIrish also enhances Ireland’s

brand as a nation of creatives and makers. In March of 2016, Margaret Molloy set out on a personal endeavor to promote Irish fashion. Driven solely by her passion, the idea was simple, to get friends and family to wear something Irish during the month of March. Using finely honed

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IRISH DESIGN

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IRISH DESIGN

influencer marketing and brandbuilding skills from her day job, Chief Marketing Officer of a prominent branding firm, she employed social media as her platform to raise the visibility of Irish fashion, its designers and ultimately the country itself. It was a natural fit for the fashionloving marketer, with a keen eye for design, to do something she greatly enjoyed while also celebrating her beloved Irish heritage. And so, the #WearingIrish movement was born. “I felt like I had discovered an untold story,” says Molloy. “Designers across the island of Ireland are producing world-class fashion yet few people outside the country could name an Irish designer. I founded WearingIrish to change that and bring forth a relevant, creative, undiscovered Ireland.” While it’s popular to wear green on St Patrick’s Day, the initial idea of taking over the month of March and declaring it the territory of Irish designers was inspired. Today the movement is well and truly hitting the stratosphere, and not just for St Patrick’s day.

Liadain Aiken Barracuda Lambswool Cropped Polo Neck

Fast forward to March 2018, after two years of capturing global media attention, and the idea has evolved into a yearlong initiative and continues to gain momentum with support from prominent international businesses and leaders. With the support of six partners, Molloy launched an online competition, WearingIrish NYC 2018. The goal was to discover Ireland’s best fashion and accessories designers and help catapult the winners into the US market. With over 170 applicants, 10 were chosen to come to New York for a showcase program at Bank of Ireland’s startlab, neighboring the iconic Grand Central Terminal. 255


Our unique collection of Bridalwear and Bridal Accessories are available to purchase online www.bridalandlace.com or we can be contacted directly for customised orders. Our designs can be shipped to anywhere in the world. Hazel Comyn 19 Main Street, Cahersiveen, Co Kerry, V23 YX62 www.bridalandlace.com bridalandlace@gmail.com

Hazel Comyn Bridal and Lace is a multiaward winning Irish Designer. Her elegant bridal designs represent a modern girl, but bring with them a sense of tradition and heritage. Originally from Cork, but now based in Kerry she takes inspiration from the beauty of the Irish landscape. Through her exploration she discovered a love of Irish crafts especially Handmade Irish Lace which she now incorporates into her designs. Her beautiful handmade Limerick Lace pieces bring back a timeless tradition of passing a piece of lace from generation to generation each bringing their own unique story and memories.

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The ten winning designers, Aine, Alison Conneely, Blaithin Ennis, De Bruir, Inner Island, Jennifer Rothwell, Nathalie B. Coleman, Sands and Hall, The Tweed Project and Triona, had the exciting opportunity to bring their brands to life in front of an American audience. The invitation-only showcase included a highly curated program including speakers from the New York fashion and business community as well as prominent members of the Irish diaspora. “My hope is that WearingIrish inspires the marketer and storyteller in all of us,” says Molloy. “Promoting Irish fashion and accessories designers is a tangible way to demonstrate Ireland’s creativity and, when we promote Ireland as a nation of makers, every designer, every Irish business and every Irish person is a winner.”

Hazel Comyn dip dyed silk dress

Partners supporting the event included Bank of Ireland, the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, through Ireland’s Consulate in New York, Tourism Ireland, CIE Tours, Invest Northern Ireland and Enterprise Ireland. The growing panel of jurors and advisors included current and former merchants, creative directors, executives, investors, editors, and influencers from Bloomingdale’s, Accessories Council, Victoria’s Secret, Stella & Dot, POPSUGAR, Theia, Keds, Kate Spade, Harvard University, Gilt Group and many more. 257


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Mucros Magic

Weaving in Ireland dates back to about 1600BC, as pottery from that period shows signs of woven material in which the clay was placed before firing. A fragment of cloth in the National Museum found in a bog in County Antrim dates back to at least 700BC. So important were the skills of spinning and weaving in early Ireland that the Brehon Laws, written about 600-800 A.D., lay down as part of a wife’s entitlement in case of divorce, that she should keep her spindles, wool bags, weaver’s reeds and a share of the yarn she had spun and the cloth she had woven! In the heart of Kerry’s National Park, the delights of Muckross House await – a nineteenth century Victorian mansion close to the shores of Muckross Lake and famed world-wide for the splendour and beauty of its setting. The house is a fine example of the life of a nineteenth century landowner and there are working farms and a thriving craft industry operating onsite. One of the craft experiences here are Mucros Weavers who produce quality woven accessories under the expert eye of master weaver John Cahill. An extensive range of colourful scarves, stoles, capes and rugs are produced from materials such as wool, mohair and alpaca. There is also a headwear and bag collection in beautiful textiles that will stand the test of time and add elegance to any outfit. Woven into the fabric of a local community quality Irish hand-weaving is more far reaching than traditional craftspeople could ever have imagined. From humble beginnings Mucros Weavers has grown to supply stores world-wide in countries including the USA, Canada, France, Germany and Japan.

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Come and visit Liz Christy - Artist, Textile Designer and Hand-Weaver at work in Swallow Studios, located in Annayalla among the rolling hills of Castleblayney, Co. Monaghan. Hear Liz tell the stories of her creative life and business as she demonstrates her techniques of handdyeing & hand-weaving. Liz has a strong sense of heritage and place and she loves where she lives and works in the heart of this lovely county. See a part of Ireland’s Ancient East, with all it’s mystic magic, still at play in tandem with the modern day, and bring back a timeless gift to treasure forever!

Opening times: 10am to 6pm Monday to Friday. Come and see stunning colours dyed & hand-woven before your eyes, real poetry in motion ! For weekend opening and availability call Liz on 0876821563. The GPS co-ordinates for SAT NAVs are: N540̊9.930’ & W64̊7.772 . Parking is available and bus tours/large groups are welcome with prior arrangement for ease of access. Visa/Mastercard/Cash wel-

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Born in the Bog MADE IN IRELAND F

rom turf bog to sandy beaches and hills dotted in heather; bustling towns and the famous rugged surf, as they say about Donegal “up here, we’re different”. Both beautiful and different, an ethically made, 100% wool, Bogman beanie is the perfect way to top off your look, giving you an edge that could only be found in Donegal. The bikers, the hikers, trailblazers and adventure makers; the surfers, Instagram scrollers, leisurely strollers and the ones who brave the storms - Bogman beanies make a statement - “Do Everything, Regret Nothing” Founder Anna Campbell created the Bogman brand, which stemmed from her eye for design, her knowledge of fashion and beauty combined with her well-traveled background. Anna was raised in the highlands of Scotland, she sampled the delights of life in San Francisco and then she settled where she now calls home, Donegal in Ireland. Anna met a Donegal man in San Francisco and the rest is Bogman history! In her new home Anna settled back down to doing what she loves most - being creative and creating a lifestyle. Through legendary local knitter and maker Edel MacBride, Anna was introduced to the beautiful colours of Donegal Yarn, and with her own history in knitwear she was simply smitten. After being immersed in the luxury fashion industry in the US, Anna could mix the inspirations and reflections from and the many roads that life brought her on with

natural, new materials – all of which she weaves into her Bogman creations. Anna uses greys, pinks, greens and blues from both Donegal Tweed and fine merino wool which is very soft and flexible. The expression of colour and what it can mean and signify is important to Anna, who loves to make up her own designs from old patterns of her grandmothers and mothers putting an edge or twist on a 1920’s style or an Aran from the 1950’s. Bogman Beanie is named after Anna’s husband. When she first met her man Anna lovingly referred to him as her BOGMAN from Donegal (keeping in mind that the place Anna grew up in was far boggier than where he came from!). She almost ate her words when she arrived in Donegal and was back footing turf. Full circle! Anna knitted hats for the bog and the farm as wool is more flexible and warmer than acrylic, which as any rural Irish bog-dweller knows, after a day in the bog it gets pretty sweaty and mucky. Wool when washed retains its shape while acrylic goes big and baggie. Bogman beanies are made to last and the earthy Donegal wool is a pleasure to work with and to wear. A lifestyle brand, born in the bogs of Donegal and made from natural fibres and colours this is headwear that breathes, keeps your head warm and dry and makes a statement.

ANNA’S STORY Anna was born in the Highlands of Scotland. She was that little girl who ordered Vogue from the local shop, her eyes set firmly on high fashion life in the USA one day. Anna began knitting at age six, taught by her mother and grandmother (patiently, as Anna was a left-handed knitter!). As her pattern reading and experience grew, Anna began knitting baby clothes and knitting became an integral part of her daily life from a young age. For all of its beauty Anna’s interest in fashion was not well served in rural Scotland – given that there was only one fashion retailer with limited options, so Anna began to customise t-shirts, ripping jeans and adding safety pins. Style as a reflection of her personality was always very important. Back when the Icelandic chunky knits were very much in-vogue, Anna knitted a tonne for her friends and family. In her twenties Anna caught her big break, finding herself in San Francisco where her beauty and make-up addiction paid off. She bagged herself a career as makeup artist in film and TV and then latterly for large companies such as MAC who hire artists for their ‘look’ as they want to promote what is new and different. During the ‘90s Anna met a lot of up and coming and established stars, which didn’t strike her as out of ordinary at the time and made her the vibrant person she is, today.

www.bogmanbeanie.com 261


Bespoke Handmade Knitwear | Made to Order | Cherish for Life www.liadainaiken.com

Cbeeltic Knot Works your own kind of awesome

“I hope you enjoy my work as much as I enjoy making it.”

Bob

Creator, Owner, Maker Ask for us at your favorite shop, or find us online at

www.CelticKnotWorks.com Artisan Crafted Celtic Jewelry & Gifts

Specialists in Irish Knitwear, Tweeds and Wool Products Top Floor, St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Dublin 2 Phone: 01 475 4621 www.thedonegalshop.com


STORE STORIES

Store Stories IRISH STORES ALL OVER THE USA AND CANADA OPEN THEIR DOORS AND THEIR HEARTS TO CUSTOMERS EVERY DAY. HERE ARE SOME OF THEIR STORIES.

Celt-Iberia Traders

We are an eclectic and unique shop/gallery inspired by the rich and culturally distinctive art and craftwork of Ireland and Spain. The owners have traveled extensively in the two countries and have met with all of our suppliers, many of whom are only featured here in our gallery in the US. These include artisans whose works are on display in Irish embassies worldwide, and given to Popes and heads of state by the Irish Government.

Although our collection is generally 75% to 80% Irish Celtic, the introduction of Spanish and Spanish Celtic Galician jewelry and ceramics changes the scope of the shop from a traditional Irish import shop to a more international European gallery, which appeals to many non-Celtic visitors. We have also expanded our more traditional offerings like large collections of woolens, tweed caps, coats and jackets, capes and ladies’ apparel, as well as crystal, china, candles and fragrances, Guinness-wear and top Irish

and Spanish potters and ceramic artists. We also feature a wide range of traditional Celtic and Spanish jewelry designers. Owners Mike Burns and Richard Cordover are now in the 19th year New Hope, PA, an internationally known arts, antiques and theatre destination. Celt-Iberia Traders occupies the historic 1750 Parry Barn. With its 265 year old construction and a dramatic 18 foot high central room, it gives the collections a dramatic and atmospheric home. 263


STORE STORIES

Caseys Irish Imports

Casey’s Irish Imports located in Rocky River, Ohio, was established in 1988 and will be celebrating their 30th anniversary this October. Original owners and founders, Vera and Tom Casey (of Cong, Co. Mayo and Carrick, Co. Galway) fulfilled a lifelong dream of importing the treasures of their native Ireland to America when they opened their doors 30 years ago. The city of Rocky River was a perfect choice as it was located in the center of the large west side Irish American community. Casey’s began in one storefront and eventually expanded to cover two shop fronts. The store is now owned and operated by the next generation of Casey’s, sisters Maureen Casey and Kathleen Casey Proctor, residents of Rocky River and Fairview Park. Their staff includes their brother, niece, and a dedicated staff who either immigrated from Ireland or of Irish descent. Casey’s is a unique family run business 264

that prides itself on outstanding customer service, always willing to research or special order a product to meet their customer’s needs. Casey’s specializes in Irish and Celtic Jewelry, Irish Knitwear, Waterford Crystal, Belleek China, Religious items, Irish foods, clothing and home décor. Casey’s has been previously voted best gift shop in Cleveland on the Fox 8 Hotlist and has received the Celtic Warrior Award as an outstanding merchant & member of The North American Celtic Trade Association for promoting Celtic heritage. Most recently, in January of 2018, they were awarded the Quality Business Award by the Rocky River Chamber of Commerce. Maureen and Kathleen travel to various Irish trade shows in Chicago, New Jersey, and Dublin, Ireland throughout the year to find new items to showcase at their store. In addition to running the store they are involved in several Irish organizations and serve on various Irish boards in the Cleveland Area. Casey’s also annually sponsors a contestant in Ohio Rose of Tralee.

Sullivan's Irish Alley.. & Travel Too!

Sullivan’s Irish Alley & TRAVEL Too pride themselves on offering customers a variety of high quality Irish and Celtic jewelry. They also stock high-quality products from their bricks and mortar shop on this website as well. With a love of everything Celtic, they have traveled to Ireland and Britain on countless occasions, so they are here to help you find that perfect Celtic gift for family and friends or to plan that perfect trip – they are world travel experts! Sullivans Irish Alley invite you to visit their shop or take a tour of their website which is updated regularly. www.CelticAlley.com


STORE STORIES

Cronin's Irish Cottage

Once upon a time in 1985, Irish born couple John and Nora Cronin drove down Keyser Ave., their two young kids in the backseat, in their newly adopted hometown of Scranton, PA and saw a little house for sale. “That looks like an Irish cottage.” Nora said to her husband as she glanced at the quaint house. John looked over at the building and in typical business fashion he declared, “that’s it, an Irish import store!” Cronin’s Irish Cottage was born. In the early years, the little Irish shop brought Ireland to the city of Scranton whose natives at the time did not have the ability to travel back to the land of their heritage. Over the next several years, the Cronin’s stood with friends and customers as they celebrated

birthdays, weddings, baptisms and loss. They always had just the right piece of the Irish heritage to offer when it was needed. John and Nora were Irish born and if you had the pleasure of knowing them, you saw it in their sense of humor and twinkle in their eyes. They were magic, and so was the little store they built. Three decades saw a lot of changes and activity for the store. It expanded into festivals throughout the country, changed locations within the hometown of Scranton, expanded in the promotion of Irish culture through concerts and events, had pop ups throughout the northeast for Christmas and St. Patrick’s Day seasons, had front row seats to the changes in Irish culture over the years, and watched the Irish American market change in unprecedented ways with the Celtic Tiger,

then finally dealt the cruelest blow with the loss of John in 2008 and Nora in 2017. Daughter, Breeda was in the backseat of the car in 1985 when her parents conceived the idea of Cronin’s Irish Cottage. She had stood behind the counter with her parents since she was a small child and Breeda developed a deep love for Irish culture and the Irish American community. She and her family now carry on the tradition in Scranton. Cronin’s Irish Cottage carries all the classics that one would find in an Irish store. It has expanded to include an annual Irish Christmas concert and Irish language classes and is eager to continue to promote Irish culture in the community. Breeda has a true passion for Irish culture instilled in her by her mom and dad and she strives to share that with visitors every day. 265


Since 1960, when John Shevlin’s late father started a ladies hat factory in Malahide Co. Dublin, Shevlin Millinery design and make classical ladies and gents hats for the home and export market. Shevlin Millinery are also the only Irish makers of Real Panama Hats, using quality straw from Ecuador. Many well-known people wear a Shevlin Hat, including the President of Ireland. From their shop Design Lane, in Temple Bar, Essex Street West, Dublin 8, John makes made to measure hats at no extra cost. SEE OUR SELECTION OF HATS IN DESIGN LANE.

Monday to Saturday 11am to 6pm. Sunday 12pm to 5pm. www.designlane.ie www.shevlin.ie

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04/09/2018 21:05

Native by Liwu Jewellery is delicate, simple and modern jewellery inspired by ancient Celtic symbolism. Each piece includes a meaning card to explain the Celtic symbol. Find your perfect gift

Honour your heritage

Wear your subtle meaning.

Made in Ireland.

WWW.LIWUJEWELLERY.COM . BALLYMONEY, GOREY, CO WEXFORD, IRELAND.


CONNECTICUT

GEORGIA

Paddy’s On The Square

Celtic Treasures

Irish Eyes

Enchanted Shire

228 Robert Parker Coffin Road Long Grove, IL 60047

4240 Old Seward Hwy #2 Anchorage, AK 99503

8A Olde Mistick Village 27 Coogan Boulevard Mystic, CT 06355

6905 Virlyn B Smith Road Fairburn, GA 30213

Tel: 907-333-2358 Web: www.celtictreasuresak.com Contact: Lisa Caress-Beu

Sunshine Health Foods 410 Trainor Gate Road Fairbanks, AK 99701

Tel: 907-456-5433 Web: www.sunshinehealthfoodstore.com Contact: Mary Kopf

ARIZONA Mully’s Touch of Ireland 7054 E 5th Avenue Scottsdale, AZ 85251

Tel: 480-941-4198 Web: www.mullystouchofireland.com Contact: Nancy Morrall

CALIFORNIA Celtic Shoppe

Tel: 860-536-9960 Email: irisheyesmystic@aol.com Contact: Donna Gorman

IDAHO All Things Irish

Tel: 773-881-8585 Email: irish3446@gmail.com Contact: Linda & Ron Gorman

315 E Sherman Avenue Coeur d’Alene, ID 83814

South Side Irish Imports

Tel: 203-507-2160 Web: www.luckyeweirishgoods.com Contact: Kathleen O’Neil-Regan

DELAWARE Fenwick Float’ors 35034 Buoy Boulevard West Fenwick Island, DE 19975

Tel: 302-436-5953 Web: www.fenwickfloators.com Contact: Tina McBride

FLORIDA

Tel: 408-379-7474 Web: www.celticshoppe.com Contact: Cathy Cavagnaro

Spanish Springs & Sumter Landing, The Villages, FL 32159

Ciaras Irish Shop

Tel: 352-840-3212 Web: www.celticelegance.com Contact: Marian Halpin

334 Second Street Eureka, CA 95501

Celtic Shop of Dunedin

Kerreen O’Connor’s Irish Shop 2595 West Alamo Avenue Littleton, CO 80120

Tel: 303-794-6388 Web: www.kerreen.com Contact: Heather Benedict

3446 W. 111th Street Chicago, IL 60655

2371 Whitney Avenue Hamden, CT 06518

Celtic Elegance / Name Heritage International

COLORADO

South Side Irish Imports

Lucky Ewe Irish Goods

354 East Campbell Avenue Campbell, CA 95008

Tel: 707-443-0102 Email: irishshopeureka@msn.com Contact: CC O’Brien-Cree

Tel: 585-329-5653 Web: www.enchantedshire.com Contact: Arleen Dougherty

Tel: 847-634-0339 Web: www.irishboutique.com Contact: John Barry

354 Main Street Dunedin, FL 34698

Tel: 727-733-2200 Web: www.celticshopdundedin.com Contact: Lynn Thorn

The Irish Gift Shop 26 Cuna Street St. Augustine, FL 32084

Tel: 904-824-5040 Email: gracereed209@gmail.com Contact: Grace Reed

Tel: 208-667-0131 Web: www.all-thingsirish.com Contact: Ilene Moss

ILLINOIS Irish American Heritage Center Gift Shop 4626 N Knox Avenue Chicago IL 60630

Tel: 773-282-7035 x 14 Web: www.irish-american.org Contact: Irene Higgins-Hruby & Mary Rose Teahan

The Irish Boutique 6606 Northwest Highway Crystal Lake Plaza Crystal Lake, IL 60014

Tel: 815-459-1800 Web: www.irishboutique.com Contact: Patrick Barry

The Irish Boutique 434 Coffin Road Long Grove, IL 60074

Tel: 847-634-3540 Web: www.irishboutique.com Contact: Patrick Barry

The Irish Shop 100 N Oakpark Avenue Oak Park, IL 60301

Store DIrectory

ALASKA

7725 W 159th Street Tinley Park, IL 60477

Tel: 708-444-4747 Email: irish3446@gmail.com Contact: Linda & Ron Gorman

IOWA Shamrock Imports 391 Bluff Street Dubuque, IA 52001

Tel: 563-583-5000 Web: www.shamrockjeweler.com Contact: Mike & Judy Siegert

St Pat’s Association & Irish Gift Shop 1001 South Broadway Emmetsburg, IA 50536

Tel: 712-852-4326 Web: www.emmetsburgirishgifts.com Contact: Stephanie Mehan

KANSAS Irish Crystal Company 8250 W 151st Street Overland Park, KS 66223

Tel: 913-341-4438 Web: www.irishcrystal.com Contact: Michelle Nestel

Tel: 708-445-1149 Web: www.theirishshopoakpark.com Contact: Jim & Anne August

267


Store DIrectory

MISSOURI

Emerald Gifts

NEW YORK

Irish Crossroads

Browne’s Irish Market

137 Parsippany Road Parsippany, NJ 07054

Cashel House

58 Main Street Sayville, NY 11782

3300 Pennsylvania Avenue Kansas City, MO 64111

Tel: 816-561-0030 Web: www.BrownesIrishMarket.com Contact: Kerry Browne

The Celtic Ranch 404 Main Street Weston, MO 64098

Tel: 816-640-2881 Web: www.celticranch.com Contact: Terry Kast

Kerry Cottage 2119 S. Big Bend Boulevard St. Louis, MO 63117

Tel: 314-647-0166 Web: www.kerrycottage.com

NEW HAMPSHIRE Celtic Crossing 112 Congress Street Portsmouth, NH 03801

Tel: 603-436-0200 Web: www.celticcrossing.com Contact: Karin Scott

Ireland on the Square 6 Market Square Portsmouth, NH 03801

Tel: 603-319-1670 Web: www.irelandonthesquare.com Contact: Jennifer Dumas

268

Tel: 973-884-3241 Email: edhansberry69@gmail.com Contact: Edward Hansberry

224 Tompkins Street Syracuse, NY 13204

Faith & Begorra

Tel: 315-472-4438 Email: cashelhouse@gmail.com Contact: Peter Heverin

40 Broadway Denville, NJ 07834

Celtic Aer Gift Shop

Tel: 973-625-0070 Web: www.faithandbegorra.com Contact: Susan Banks

1451 Strawberry Road Mohegan Lake, NY 10547

Irish Centre

Tel: 914-526-3361 Webite: www.celticaer.com Contact: Ashley Rooney-Hedtke

1120 Third Ave Spring Lake, NJ 07762

Celtic Gifts & Treasures

Tel: 732-449-6650 Web: www.njirish.com Contact: Moya Rushe

Kelly’s A Touch of Ireland 5 South Broadway Pitman, NJ 08071

Tel: 856-589-4988 Email: atouchofireland@outlook.com Contact: Judy Miller

O’Ireland 130 North Broadway South Amboy, NJ 08879

Tel: 732-525-0515 Web: www.oireland.com Contact: Rosanne Savoi

O’Ireland 30 Monmouth Street Red Bank, NJ 07701

NEW JERSEY

Tel: 732-747-4433 Web: www.oireland.com Contact: Paul Savoi

Bridget’s Irish Cottage Inc

Out of Ireland

15 E Broad Street Westfield, NJ 07090

3 New York Road, Store #22 Historic Smithville, NJ 08205

Tel: 908-789-0909 Web: www.bridgets.com Contact: Bridget Lawn

Tel: 609-748-6707 Web: www.shopoutofireland.com Contact: Kathleen O’Gara

The Cross & Shamrock

The Pipers Cove

1669 Route 33 Hamilton Square, NJ 08690

212 Kearny Avenue Kearny, NJ 07032

Tel: 609-586-9696 Web: www.crossandshamrock.com Contact: Ann & Tim Bauersachs

Tel: 201-998-3695 Web: www.piperscove.com Contact: John & Joan Nisbet

72-17 Grand Avenue Maspeth, NY 11378

Tel: 718-424-8686 Email: celticirishgiftsandtreasures@ gmail.com Contact: Liz Kenny

Celtic Treasures 456 Broadway Saratoga Springs, NY 12866

Tel: 518-583-9452 Web: www.celtictreasures.com Contact: Paul O’Donnell

The Danu Gallery 39 E. Central Avenue Pearl River, NY 10965

Tel: 845-735-4477 Web: www.thedanugallery.com Contact: Karen Curran

From the Hart

Tel: 631-569-5464 Web: www.irishcrossroadsonline.com Contact: Kathleen Quinn

Lennon’s Irish Shop 164 Jay Street Schenectady, NY 12305

Tel: 518-377-0064 Web: www.lennonsirishshop.com Contact: Dale & Mary Ann May

Little Shop of Shamrocks 173 Islip Avenue Islip, NY 11751

Tel: 631-224-4311 Web: www.littleshopofshamrocks.com Contact: Linda Low

Mary-Anne’s Irish Gift Shop 5694 Riverdale Avenue Bronx, NY 10471

Tel: 718-549-7660 Web: www.maryannesirishgiftshop.com Contact: Mary-Anne Connaughton

Molly Malone’s Irish Gifts 295 Canada Street Lake George, NY 12845

Tel: 518-668-3363 Web: www.mollymalonesirishgifts.com Contact: Bill & Emily Manion

Tara Gift Shoppe 250 Abbott Road Buffalo, NY 14220

108 N Main Street Wellsville, NY 14895

Tel: 716-825-6700 Web: www.taragiftshoppe.com Contact: Mary Heneghan

Tel: 585-808-4643 Email: hartn82@gmail.com Contact: Nancy Hart

Tipperary Irish Importer / Celtic Jeweler

Guaranteed Irish

3956 State Highway 2 Brunswick, NY 12180

2220 Route 145 East Durham, NY 12423

Tel: 518-634-2392 Email: guaranteedirish145@yahoo.com Contact: Donal Gallagher

Tel: 518-279-8272 Web: www.shoptipperary.com Contact: Tom McGrath


Store DIrectory Walker Metalsmith Celtic Jewelry 1 Main Street Andover, NY 14806

Tel: 607-478-8567 Web: www.walkerscelticjewelry.com Contact: Stephen Walker

NORTH CAROLINA Enchanted Shire 16445 Poplar Tent Road Huntersville, NC 28078

Tel: 585-329-5653 Web: www.enchantedshire.com Contact: Arlene Dougherty

OHIO Casey’s Irish Imports 19626 Center Ridge Road Rocky River, OH 44116

Tel: 440-333-8383 Web: www.caseysirishimports.com Contact: Kathleen Casey Proctor & Maureen Casey Brubaker

Ha’penny Bridge Imports of Ireland 75 South High Street Dublin, OH 43017

Tel: 614-889-9615 Web: www.hapennybridgeimports.com Contact: Anne & Al Gleine

Irish Crossroads & Gift Shop

Celt-Iberia Traders

Donegal Square

38015 Euclid Avenue Willoughby, OH 44094

52 South Main Street New Hope, PA 18938

534 Main Street Bethlehem, PA 18018

Tel: 440-954-9032 Web: www.irishcrossroadsohio.com Contact: Michelle Morgan

Tel: 215-862-4922 Web: www.celtiberiatraders.com Contact: Michael Burns & Richard Cordover

Tel: 610-866-3244 Web: www.donegal.com Contact: Neville Gardner & Marie Barry

The Celtic Cross

2775 Lebanon Road Manheim, PA 17545

Lynch’s Irish Imports & Gifts 116 S. Market Street Wooster, OH 44691

Tel: 330-601-0160 Email: lynchsirishimports@gmail.com Contact: Thomas Lynch

729 Washington Road Pittsburgh, PA 15228

Tel: 412-306-1890 Web: www.celticcross1.com Contact: Tom Macik

OREGON

Celtic Culture

Bridie’s Irish Faire

137 East Main Street Ligonier, PA 15658

715 NW 3rd Street (Nye Beach) Newport, OR 97365

Tel: 541-574-9366 Web: www.bridiesirishfaire.com Contact: Susan Spencer

PENNSYLVANIA A Lit’le Irish Too 9 Chambersburg Street Gettysburg, PA 17325

Tel: 717-334-6609 Web: www.alittleirishtoo.com Contact: Tory Warren

Tel: 724-238-2420 Web: www.celticcultureonline.com Contact: Andrew Carr

The Celtic Rose Peddlers Village Courtyard, Store 14 Lahaska, PA 18931

Tel: 215-794-5882 Web: www.thecelticrose.com Contact: Marilyn Mellon

Cronin’s Irish Cottage 300 Lackawanna Avenue Scranton, PA 18503

Tel: 570-342-4448 Web: www.croninsirishcottage.com Contact: Breeda Cronin-Holmes

Enchanted Shire Tel: 585-329-5653 Web: www.enchantedshire.com Contact: Arleen Dougherty

Giggles Gifts 7400 Frankford Avenue Philadelphia, PA 19136

Tel: 215-624-8311 Web: www.gigglesgifts.com Contact: Rosemary Veneziale

Irish Design Center 303 South Craig Street Pittsburgh, PA 15213

Tel: 412-682-6125 Web: www.irishdesigncenter.com Contact: Maura Krushinski

Oxford Hall Celtic Shoppe & Tea Café 233 Bridge Street New Cumberland, PA 17070

Tel: 717-774-8789 Web: www.oxfordhall.com Contact: Cindy & Steve Washburn

269


Store DIrectory

Tullycross

Irish Eyes of Virginia

110 South Street Philadelphia, PA 19147

725 Caroline Street Fredericksburg, VA 22401

Tel: 215-925-1995 Web: www.tullycross.com Contact: Meg Turner

Tel: 540-373-0703 Web: www.irisheyesofva.com Contact: Mike & Bernadette Esler

RHODE ISLAND

Maggie Casey’s Celtic Treasure

Basic Irish Luxury

124 Main Street Smithfield, VA 23430

137 Swinburne Row, Thames Street Newport, RI 02840

Tel: 757-371-6100 Email: mcceltictreasure@gmail.com Contact: Kristin Wilda

Tel: 800-255-8272 Web: newport@basicirishluxury.com Contact: Tom McGrath

Piper Dan’s Keltic Shoppe

TENNESSEE

Tel: 540-751-0777 Email: piperdanskeltic@aol.com Contact: Mary Brady Shea Knight

The Celtic Cup 106 North Anderson Street Tullahoma, TN 37388

Tel: 931-563-7733 Web: www.thecelticcup.com Contact: Denise & Chris Smith

Celtic Heritage 634 Parkway, The Village #26, Gatlinburg, TN 37738

Tel: 865-436-2588 Web: www.celticheritage.net Contact: Melody VanNus

TEXAS Things Celtic 113 E Blackjack Street Dublin, TX 76446

Tel: 512-472-2358 Web: www.thingsceltic.com Contact: Lanora Davidson

Pixie Treasures Celtic Shoppe 2925 Virginia Beach Boulevard Virginia Beach, VA 23452

Tel: 757-961-7494 Web: www.pixietreasures.biz Contact: Jeanne & Bob Rider

Scotland House Ltd 430 Duke of Gloucester Street Williamsburg, VA 23185

Tel: 757-229-7800 Web: www.scotlandhouseltd.com Contact: Sam & Michelle Wallace

WASHINGTON

WISCONSIN

CANADA

Legacy House Imports

A Bit of Home

4221 Lien Road Madison, WI 53716

2-1248 Dundas Street East Mississauga, Ontario, L4Y 2C1

Tel: 608-663-1340 Web: www.legacyhouseimports.com Contact: Patrick & Marsha Flannery

Tel: 905-804-1731 Web: www.abitofhome.ca Contact: Henry & Geraldine Porsch

Legends of the Celts

The Scottish & Irish Store East

10556 Main Street Hayward, WI 54843

1713 St. Laurent Boulevard (at Innes), Ottawa, Ontario, K1G 3V4

Galway Bay Trading Co

Tel: 715-634-0901 Web: www.legendsofthecelts.com Contact: Steve & Barbara Hand

880 Point Brown Avenue NE Ocean Shores, WA 98569

O’Meara’s Irish House

Tel: 360-289-2300 Web: www.galwaybayirishpub.com Contact: William Gibbons

3970 State Highway 42 Fish Creek, WI 54212

VIRGINIA

Wandering Angus

Tel: 920-868-3528 Web: www.omearasirish.com Contact: Megan O’Meara

Celtic Tides

914 Water Street Port Townsend, WA 98368

Robin’s European Cottage

23A S. Jefferson Street Lexington VA 24450

Tel: 540-464-6545 Web: www.celtictides2.com Contact: John & Mary Jo Morman

270

109E Main Street, Old Town Purcellville, VA 20132

Tel: 360-385-9549 Web: www.wanderingangus.com Contact: Tracy Williamson & Debbie Sonandre

N70 W6340 Bridge Road Cedarburg, WI 53012

Tel: 262-377-3444 Email: robinparsons33@gmail.com Contact: Robin Parsons

Tel: 613-739-3393 Web: www.scottishandirishstore.com Contact: Michael Cox

The Scottish & Irish Store West 2194 Robertson Road Ottawa, Ontario, K2H 9J5

Tel: 613-829-2251 Web: www.scottishandirishstore.com Contact: Michael Cox

The Wee Tartan Shop 177 Queen Street Port Perry, Ontario, L9L 1B8

Tel: 905-985-6573 Web: www.weetartanshop.com Contact: Stewart Bennett


Store DIrectory KENTUCKY

MAINE

Ireland on the Square

The Celtic Path

Failte Irish Import Shop

Ireland on the Square

10 Market Square Newburyport, MA 01950

214 E Main Street Hubbardston, MI 48845

113 South Upper Street Lexington, KY 40507

3 Dock Square Kennebunkport, ME 04046

Tel: 859-381-1498 Web: www.lexirish.com Contact: Liza Hendley Betz

Tel: 207-967-0534 Web: www.irelandonthesquare.com Contact: Jennifer Dumas

Tel: 978-463-6288 Web: www.irelandonthesquare.com Contact: Jennifer Dumas

Tel: 989-981-6066 Email: thecelticpath.pb@gmail.com Contact: Patricia Baese

Irish Specialty Shoppe Inc

Celtic Seasons

158 President Avenue Fall River, MA 02720

301 N Harbor Drive, Suite B6 Grand Haven, MI 49417

Tel: 508-678-4096 Contact: Joseph Reilly

Tel: 269-352-0376 Email: eboyle54@gmail.com Contact: Eileen Boyle Chlebana

Walsh’s Celtic Center 931 Baxter Avenue Louisville, KY 40204

Tel: 502-459-9888 Email: jwalsh2514@gmail.com Contact: John Walsh

LOUISIANA Enchanted Shire 46468 River Road Hammond, LA 70401

Tel: 585-329-5653 Web: www.enchantedshire.com Contact: Arlene Dougherty

MARYLAND Irish Traditions 141 Main Street Annapolis, MD 21401

Tel: 410-990-4747 Web: www.irishtraditionsonline.com Contact: Margaret McLemore

MASSACHUSETTS Bridget’s - An Irish Tradition 88 West Main Street Norton, MA 02766

Tel: 508-285-9700 Web: www.bridgetsirish.com Contact: Bridget Daly

The Tinker’s Cart 54 High Street Clinton, MA 01510

Sullivan’s Irish Alley & Travel Too

Tel: 978-365-4334 Web: www.irishandcelticgifts.com Contact: Cheryl Hughes

104 East Main Street Flushing, MI 48433

MICHIGAN Always Irish 37650 W. 6 Mile Road Livonia, MI 48152

Tel: 734-462-7200 Email: alwaysirish@aceweb.com Contact: Dean & Judy Valovich

Tel: 810-487-2473 Web: www.SullivansIrishAlley.com Contact: Ed & Caron Sullivan

The Twisted Shamrock 3074 12 Mile Road Berkley, MI 48072

Tel: 248-544-4170 Web: www.thetwistedshamrock.com Contact: Jim Monahan 271


r Fo n o N U -E en id es R ts

makers of the tm

Traditional Claddagh Rings, Timeless Claddagh Wedding Bands & Exclusive Diamond Set Claddagh Rings From the Workshops of Claddagh Jewellers in the Heart of Galway City.

Visit Our Stores in Galway City

and Dublin City Centre

Visit Our Galway Store 25 Mainguard St. 091 562 310 Visit Our Dublin Store 2 Grafton St. 01 607 4018

shop@thecladdagh.com www.thecladdagh.com fb.com/claddaghjewellers


TM

V i si tor C e n t r e G a lway

Galway’s New and Exciting Claddagh Ring Visitor Centre and Workshop Come and see where the authentic Claddagh Ring is made. Learn about the origins of Galway's iconic Claddagh ring which dates back over 300 years. Browse the most extensive range of fine Irish and Celtic jewellery. TM

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Located next to Claddagh Jewellers: 26 Shop Street, Galway. www.claddaghlegend.com

fb.com/claddaghlegend


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