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Eastern Colombia
derbilt family and actor Ernest Borgnine are some of the famous people who have stayed here. Non-guests can ask permission at the reception to stroll through the immaculate grounds or swim in the warm pond fed by a medicinal spring ($2.65). Room prices include breakfast, tax and insurance. Carrera 8, near Vía Arcabuco. Tel: 8-732-0235, Email: hosteriamesopotamia@hotmail.com, URL: www.hosterialamesopotamia.addr. com Updated: Jun 23, 2008.
Hotel La Posada de San Antonio (ROOM: $95-106) Hotel La Posada de San Antonio is a converted mid-19th Century mansion on Parque Nariño. It has the feel of a country mansion, with a pool table in the library, a chapel, many antiques and a conservative décor. All rooms are spacious with king-size beds and private bathrooms. The hotel has a location in the country that provides conference facilities, a swimming pool and horseback riding. The rooms here are bright and airy, for one to three people. There is also wedding and honeymoon packages. Carrera 8, 11-61. Tel: 8-732-0538 / 0390, Cell: 310-280-7326, E-mail: padelgo@ hotmail.com. Updated: Jun 23, 2008.
Eastern Colombia
Hotel Casa de los Fundadores (ROOM: $125-150) Casa de los Fundadores is a different kind of hotel — a project of the Dominican nuns. Many years ago, the nuns had lived on this land, but now the sisters have built an exclusive hotel with all the imaginable luxuries, including a sauna, chocolate therapy massage, guided tours on horseback and their very own chapel, of course. Other special touches are the fire pit, bicycle rentals, a game room and playground. The guest rooms are immaculately decorated, with private bathrooms. Special vacation packages are available, as well as all-inclusive weddings. Kilometer 1, Vía Viñedo de Guananí. Tel: 8-732-0880 / 7320878, Fax: 8-732-0839, E-mail: admin@ casadelosfundadores.com, URL: www.casadelosfundadores.com. Bogotá: Carrera 11, 77-20, local 4. Tel: 1-211-2720 / 530-4602, Fax: 1-210-2392, Updated: Jun 23, 2008.
Villa de Leyva Restaurants Eating in Villa de Leyva tends to be on the high end, both in the level of gastronomy and price. Many of the nicer restaurants www.vivatravelguides.com
are closed on Wednesdays, including those in the Centro Comercial Quintero. After a three-day holiday weekend, many restaurants are closed on Tuesday, too. Generous daily plate specials are always available, for about $2.10. If you are on a budget, some of the cheaper hostels have common kitchens to do your own cooking. And, on Saturdays the market plaza is a flurry of sights and smells when farmers and other producers come in from all over the countryside to sell their goods (Calle 12 and 13, Carrera 5 and 6).
Heladería Los Indios Heladería Los Indios is said to have the best ice cream of Villa de Leyva. Even the wooden Indian statues that stand out front are licking cones. There are dozens of flavors, and one scoop is a cool $0.85. If you're going for something more, have a sundae ($2), a coke float ($1.85) or a milk shake ($1.85). Open Sunday-Friday 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m., Saturday 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Carrera 9, 14-54. Updated: Jun 23, 2008.
Pastelería Francesa
Leave Colombia—for a moment—in the Pastelería Francesa. This small café has old-fashioned wooden display cases, photos of early-to-mid-20th Century France and French magazines that create a very French ambience. Master baker Patrice Rio creates French pastries. Try the croissant de almendras (pastry filled with almond crème), a feijao tart (made from a local fruit) or a miniquiche. Oui, there are also baguettes, white or whole wheat. Open Thursday-Monday 8 a.m.-6:30 p.m. (until 7 p.m. for carry out). Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. Calle 10, 9-41. Updated: Jun 23, 2008.
Restaurante La Parrilla Restaurante La Parrilla is a popular budget choice for locals. The five tables are often full of diners eating set-plate meals (breakfast $2.10; lunch or dinner $2.10 complete, $1.85 main course and drink only). The midday and evening portions are generous and come with meat, rice, beans, several vegetables and a salad. So much food, in fact, you might leave with a doggie bag. Substitute the meat with eggs for a lower price. Open daily 6:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Carrera 9, 9-17. Updated: Jun 23, 2008.