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JAN 2017 ISSUE 74 £4.50




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W W W. V I N TA G E L I F E M A G A Z I N E . C O M

JAN 2017 ISSUE 74 £4.50

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Contents FASHION 10. Vintage Sewing Corner Felicity Rackstraw continues her sewing column and presents the next step of her jacket tutorial. 14. Winter Glamping Melanie Calland discusses the vintage clothing that she took for a stay at the gorgeous Swinton Bivouac. 17. Australian Made Inga Walton takes a look at the 2016 200 Years of Australian Fashion exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria. 20. Winter Accessories There’s no need to invest in a whole new wardrobe this season – invest in some versatile accessories instead! 22. Warm Up In Vintage Mustards Fabulous items in warm colours to keep you cosy this winter. 24. Be a Vintage Bride Getting married in 2017? Take some vintage style tips from Kate Beavis.

Cover photo: shutterstock/masson

28. 1900-1919, Changing Lives, Changing Shapes Take a look at how the underwear styles over the early decades of the 20th century changed. 31. 1920s Jazz Age Fashion and Photographs Moya Stone visits the exhibit at the Fashion and Textile Museum. BEAUTY & HAIR 34. The Swinging Sixties MUA Christina Cooling continues to look at make-up styles across the decades. 35. The Beauty Queens The duo talk products, vintage beauty, and answer your questions!

36. The Evolution of Hair Sarah Bloor examines the key trends for tresses of the 1940s. 38. Quick Steps to Helpful Headscarf Sarah Dunn demonstrates how to create a perfect headscarf look. 40. Hottest Vintage Hair Trends Russell and Brown take a look at the retro styles fashionable this year. WELLBEING 42. New Beginnings A New Year - does this mean resolutions for everyone? Tips for sticking to these! 43. Boudoir and Body Confidence All ladies deserve to be reminded what sassy, sexy and wonderful creatures they are! 45. Veganuary Fancy a change of diet? Why not choose to go Vegan this year? LIFESTYLE 48. My Badge of Courage has...Glitter! A representation of that which is courageously, authentically and unapologetically you. 50. Living a Champagne Lifestyle on a Ginger Beer Budget Harriet Ball shares her tips for hosting a dinner party for student friends. 51. The Space Race What would have happened if the Atomic Age had never taken place? 54. The Meaning of Pin-Up Is the original meaning of ‘pin-up’ getting a little lost amid all that is vintage? Susie Pritchard finds out. 56. A Land Girl’s Cottage Aloisia Wickett goes on a trip to an authentic Land Girl’s abode from WWII. | 3

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57. A Good Old Fashioned Start to the Year Rachel Palmer looks at the importance of eating breakfast and shares recipes. 59. The Brogue Paul Marland Griffiths looks at the timeless appeal of this style of shoe. HOME 62. Vintage Inspired Must Haves Offbeat furniture and accessories to bring vintage glamour to your home. 63. Reloved With Rachael Refreshing outdated dining room decor with a vintage twist. 64. Still in Bloom at 81 Kitty Von Tastique visits the Everglades in the Blue Mountains of NSW.

CULTURE 78. This Month in History Carrie-Ann Dring steps back to the past and finds out what happened in the month of January. 79. I Can’t Tell a Waltz from a Foxtrot Jim Williams looks at the history and appeal of the tea dance. 80. Carradine’s Cockney Singalong Chris White meets vintage lover and performer, Tom Carradine. 82. Treats at Tootsie Towers The Tootsie Rollers talk about their meeting with HRH Prince Charles. 83. Vintage Wedding Styling Tips Angel Adoree shares her tips for planning and styling a vintage wedding.


85. Carmen Miranda Katrina Simpson finds out about the life of this silver screen star.

68. Keep It Seasonal! Your fast guide to what fruits and vegetables are in season near you!

86. Book Reviews Take time out to look at our reading recommendations this month!

69. Keep Calm and Fanny On Charlotte White talks to blogger Kevin Geddes about her love of vintage cook Fanny Craddock and shares her Lemon Drizzle Cake recipe.

87. Give You My Heart... Valentines Day traditions explored.

72. Vintage Tastes, Modern Flavours Kitty Von Tastique looks at two restaurants proving that everything old is new again. 74. Five Classic Vodka Mixers Fancy a change from gin? Why not try out these vodka cocktail recipes. 76. Tea and Cake at Penny Black Vintage Life caught up with Sophie Bye, owner of this Lyme Regis tearoom.

88. Rum Rhapsodies at Mai-Kai Emma Edwards visits one of the world’s oldest and most spectacular tiki bars and restaurants. 90. Let’s Smash 2017 Haili Hughes looks at New Year’s Resolutions that you can stick to. 91. The Scene Out and about! 98. Events

Issue 75

on sale on Thurs 2nd Feb 2017

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Editor’s Letter


appy New Year to all of you wonderful readers! The new year is upon us and I hope you’re ready for 2017! I’m not big on resolutions, but this year I decided to make some changes in my life to simplify and declutter, only keeping things I need and those that put a smile on my face. The local charity shops have had a field day. I love doing this and the more I simplify, the more time I have for myself to spend with family and friends - it’s a no brainer! This issue is busy as always and we have also started to include a content online for pieces we’re not able to fit in the magazine, so do take a look on there for extra gems - As you know I’ve been doing a lot of live streaming and you guys are a great interactive audience. If there are any topics you would like me to cover then please do visit our Facebook page and let us know Well I’m off to visit my lovely boyfriend Alexander and do a spot of sightseeing and then antique searching together for my father’s vintage store - here’s a little plug for you Daddy Vintage! Check his store out here -

Rae Evans Editor in Chief Follow me on: Instagram @vintagelifemag_ed

Image of Rae: Photographer - MyBoudoir ( Hair & Make-up: Sarah Elliott MUA ( / Peignoir: Florentyna (

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Editor-In-CHIEF Rae Evans Deputy Editor Lisa Harrison FEATURES EDITOR Haili Hughes Production Editor Judith Evans Designer Twigs Art development Manager Lisa Harrison Social Media Manager Rosie Astbury Advertising Manager George Miller Advertising Executive Anu Kaplish Advertisement Design Nic Lock Finance Manager Pam Carey Finance Executive Mark Evans Distribution Manager Keiron Jefferies

Editorial: +44 (0)1260 291536

Subscriptions: +44 (0)1260 291536

Marketing: +44 (0)1260 291536

Advertising: +44 (0)20 3603 4950

Vintage Life Magazine, Dragoon Publishing Ltd Dane Mill Business Ctr, Broadhurst Lane, Congleton, Cheshire, CW12 1LA UK

Managing Director /Publisher

Rae Evans

Publishing Manager Lisa Harrison Production Manager Judith Evans Finance Manager Mark Evans

Printed in the UK by Pensord /Distribution by Warners Contributions in the form of articles are welcomed. Whilst every care will be taken of submitted material and/or photographs the publishers cannot be held responsible for any loss or damage which may occur. The material in this magazine (including ad design) is copyright of Dragoon Publishing Ltd 2017 and may not be reproduced in part or whole without permission of the publishers. Any individual providing material for publication must ensure they have obtained the correct permissions before submission to us. Every effort has been made to trace copyright holders. The editor and publishers apologise for any unwitting cases of copyright transgression. Opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publishers. No political affiliation is implied or intended. ISSN 2052 8825 Vintage Life Magazine is published twelve times a year.

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Welcome back to Vintage Life’s

Runs a small independent dressmaker’s in North Staffordshire called Esme’s Vintage Closet. She is a dressmaker, specialising in creating clothes and knitwear from the 1920s to the 1960s.


Sewing Corner I often hear on vintage forums that one of the things all vintage loving ladies would like to gain as a life skill is the ability to sew. Vintage clothes can frequently be too small for our modern bodies and outside of our price range. A few tricks learned here might come in useful for tailoring your own vintage to get a better fit.

ow that we have cut our pattern pieces, we are ready to start assembly! Before sewing, set up and gather the things that you will need as you go along: • Iron and ironing board (TIP: one of the key things to achieving a professional finish is careful pressing of your seams as you go along) • Pins • Small sharp scissors • Chalk / tailor’s marker pen / thread in a contrasting colour • Pattern instructions and cover (the instructions for vintage patterns can be frequently missing or minimal – a certain level of knowledge was presumed – so the pictures on the front of the pattern can be invaluable in working out how your finished garment should look)

• Your sewing machine, threaded with thread in a similar colour to your main fabric and set to correct tension (TIP: try your stitching on a scrap of fabric) • Comfortable place to sit and sew – I use the island unit in my kitchen or the dining table, but a computer desk will work just fine. It needs to be not too high and not too low that you are hunched over. The pattern directs us to stitch the darts in both front pieces. In the first picture, you can see that rather than chalk, I have used red thread to put “tailor’s tacks” on the wrong side of my fabric through the pattern (TIP: the “wrong side” is whichever side of the fabric will be on the inside of the jacket).

Once the tacks are in place, you can gently remove the paper pattern, taking care to ensure that the tacks remain in place. I then pinned the fabric to hold it in place, and stitched my darts. Repeat the process for putting darts on the remaining front piece. The pattern calls to stitch the two back panels together. Match the ends of the fabric up, placing them “right side” together, and pin in place. TIP: If you place your pins pointing towards the edge of the fabric, this will make stitching easier. TIP: If you are using a machine to sew this, secure both ends of your seams by stitching forwards a few stitches, then reverse stitch for a few stitches, and continue forwards. When you get to the end of your seam,

reverse for a few stitches, and carry on to the end. This will prevent your seam from coming undone at the ends once the garment is being worn and is under tension. We are then told to stitch the shoulder seams. Placing the “right sides” of the front pieces and joined back piece together, pin in place (matching the ends and your notches) and stitch. The pattern asks you to stitch the underarm seam next. Pin as before, and stitch, working from the wrist end of the seam towards the underarm. On the pattern, you will see a large circle. Secure your seam where indicated by the big circle. Lastly, you need to stitch the jacket facings. These should be cut in the same fabric as your outer layer. The pattern suggests that

Photographer, MUAH: Paramorph Zena (Evgeniya Nadina), model: Mariya Yashkova

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Photographer, MUAH: Paramorph Zena (Evgeniya Nadina), model: Mariya Yashkova

these seams can be lapped however I did mine as for the main seams, purely because my fabric is quite thick and a lapped seam can be quite bulky on one side. I did, however, topstitch each side of the seam to add a little stability and as a bit of a fancy touch. Once your facing seams are sewn, you can, if you wish, top-stitch them by ironing the seam open. With the fabric right side up, work a line of stitching evenly following the seam line down each side of each facing seam (you will have three seams between four pieces of fabric). Once you have stitched and top-stitched your facing, place it at the neckline on top of your jacket, right sides together and begin pinning. You may need to “ease” the curved edges together by gently stretching or squishing your fabric so that it sits together evenly. TIP: I line up the seams on the right side first, and then the notches and ends. Finally, I pin in between all of these places, so that the fabric doesn’t move about. | 11

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in the home

Once pinned, stitch the facings and jacket front together, going carefully from the bottom of one front facing, up one side, around the collar and neck, and then down the other front side. When sewing round a curve, you may need to stitch slower, and occasionally stop with your needle down, through the fabric so that you can lift your presser foot and pivot the fabric for a smooth curve. If in doubt, practise on a scrap of fabric before you try the “stitch and lift” technique. TIP: Once you have stitched your facing in place, so that it doesn’t get out of shape when you turn it inside out, you may wish to add in additional notches or clip the fabric so that it can stretch around the corners. You do not need to go all the way to your stitch line; ¾ of the way should be enough. Once clipped or notched, turn your jacket the right way out and press the facing into place. TIP: If you wish to stop your facing moving about (more likely with thick or slippery fabric), you can “under-stitch” it. To under-stitch, run a line of stitching down the facing side of the seam joining the facing to the jacket, making sure to catch both sides of the seam allowance in your line of stitching. Under-stitching makes pressing the fabric in place much easier, and is a technique used by many tailors and dressmakers. And that is the outside of our jacket complete! Well done everyone! Next month, we will be attaching the cuffs and fastening, stitching and inserting the lining! But now, it’s time for a cup of tea and a slice of cake!

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fashion Words Melanie Calland

Photos by Frankie Calland

A cosy cabin nestled in woodland in the North Yorkshire countryside is a great base for a winter getaway! A brisk walk in the outdoors is just the trick for burning off the seasonal treats we have indulged in! The cabins are off grid which means log stoves and candlelight, maybe a hot toddy to warm you up from the inside… We took some simple homemade broth with us to heat on the stove and warmed some part-baked bread until it went crusty in the combined oven, simple but delicious!


winton Bivouac's award winning log cabins were hand built four years ago, from wood sourced directly from the country estate they reside in. They are equipped with a shower and loo, but to heat the water, you need to get a roaring fire going in the stove which warms the whole cabin. They are insulated with wool fleece and waste water runs into its own reed beds, so you can bank on them being eco-friendly. Doing things the old fashioned way really gives you a taste of the vintage life – you can't simply switch on a light! They sleep seven people on three different levels and some are even dog friendly. I took along my winter woollies, with my poodle fur cardigan from Freddies of Pinewood ( They are also available in red and brown and have been reproduced from an original 1940s cardigan that Jo the owner has in her collection. They have been selling like hot cakes and I can see why! I made my ski pants from a pattern which was originally my mums! I last made them quite a few years ago and wore them out, so I made a new pair for the winter when I heard they were forecasting snow! My boots are probably 20 years old. I got them for a trip to Switzerland, along with my knitted hat that a friend’s mum crafted for me. I won't be going skiing but I do love the look. The fabulous giant acorn brooch is from Luxulite ( Katie makes wonderful fake Bakelite jewellery with her own flair, for wacky and kitsch items. I love real Bakelite but items this large would be very costly, so I'm content with "Fakelite." | 15

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My blue sweater is from the well-established Rocket Originals (www. available in six colours, made from an early 1950s pattern. It features a v-shaped pattern made up of diamonds, with mini cable knit inside each. Owner Kaye says she has tried to match them to the shoes they design. It certainly looks great with my Billie shoes, which can be worn with or without the front tassels. I'm also wearing a 50s cotton poodle scarf, which was a gift from my friend Maki in New York, and a deco style brooch featuring a Westie wearing a tartan Glengarry hat that I bought about 25 years ago from Greenwich market, which we used to visit each Sunday morning for vintage finds. My trousers are side button wide leg pants, which I made, but several suppliers sell these in various sizes, try: Heyday, Vivien of Holloway or The House of Foxy. Charlie, the miniature Poodle and Jet the toy Poodle, wear lumber jackets from Morrisons’ seasonal pet range. Swinton Bivouac is situated near the Yorkshire town of Masham (pronounced "mass am.") There is a lovely cafe and ice cream kiosk, yurts and log cabins as well as a bunk barn – so all of your glamping needs are covered! Find out more at

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Athol Shmith, No title (Fashion illustration. Model Ann Chapman) (c.1961), gelatin silver photograph, 49.2 x 38.8 cm. (Purchased through The Art Foundation of Victoria with the assistance of The Ian Potter Foundation, 1989). Š Estate of Athol Shmith.

Made Words inga walton

The recent survey, 200 Years of Australian Fashion, at the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) presented 101 various ensembles from over 90 designers with a strong component of headwear and millinery that ranged from c.1875 to 2013. Lead curator Paola Di Trocchio, from the Department of Fashion and Textiles, also included several accessories that employ distinctly parochial materials including a fan (c.1880) incorporating cockatoo feathers and a cape (c.1890) made of platypus fur.


he exhibition began with several rare examples of colonial fashion, as the fledgling Sydney-based society began to assert itself. Of unknown manufacture, a white Indian muslin and silver gilt evening dress (c.1805) is believed to be the earliest known surviving dress made in Australia. Empire line in style, it belonged to Anna Josepha King, the wife of Captain Philip Gidley King, Governor of New South Wales and is expressive of the role fashionable dress played in delineating the status and authority of the ruling ĂŠlite. At the contemporary end of the spectrum, the NGV commissioned designer Dion

Lee to conclude the show with a conceptual piece, Aperture (2016). Inspired by the work of German artist Otto Piene (1928-2014) and the Zero Art Movement, the light sculpture is made of laser-cut black synthetic jersey embellished with Swarovski crystals. The tradition of ending a haute couture parade with a statement wedding gown is subverted by this soaring and exaggerated dress that resembles a futuristic windsock. The 'glamour years' of Australian high fashion, from the late 1920s into the post-war era, saw the styles determined by Parisian couturiers reinterpreted for the local market by prestige department stores such as Georges and Buckley & Nunn Ltd. in Melbourne, and David Jones in

Sydney. Other exclusive 'Frenchstyle' dressmaking salons specialised in imported, reproduced and custom-made outfits serving a discerning and wealthy clientele. Local establishments such as Le Louvre in Melbourne, opened in 1922 by Lillian Wightman, took their aesthetic cues from Europe. While deferential to Parisian fashion trends, local purveyors also drew inspiration from the Hollywood 'dream factory'. Australia's own Orry-Kelly (1897-1964) designed for Warner Brothers from 1932 to 1944 and then freelanced for most of the major film studios. Kelly's internationally syndicated column Hollywood Fashion Parade was widely read back in his homeland. A room of exquisite ensem-

bles from the mid-1930s to the close of the 1950s included two elegant evening gowns from leading Melbourne designer Hall Ludlow. A wedding dress (1952) by the esteemed Sydney-based Beril Jents, featured a cascading overskirt decorated with fabric roses. Four show-stopping dresses were included from the Melbourne fashion house La Petite, founded in 1940 by the husband and wife team of Neil and Pat Rogers. An extravagant black velvet evening dress (c.1958) with stylised floral clusters made from sparkling glass beads and sequins replicated a known Dior design. Its dramatic split skirt revealed multiple layers of tulle petticoat in pale blue, sage green and apricot, contrasted with black and navy blue. | 17

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fashion Prue Acton, mini dress (1967 & c.1966); Norma Tullo, dress (c.1965); Barbara McLean, dress (c.1967); House of Stripes, silver dress (1966). Installation image: Inga Walton.

Inga walton Inga Walton is a writer and arts consultant based in Melbourne who covers fine arts, fashion and textiles, film, and popular culture. Her work has appeared in over 20 Australian and international publications. She has also contributed entries to several books and exhibition catalogues.

radical changes ushered in by the 'youthquake' emanating from 'Swinging' London. Designs by Prue Acton, Norma Tullo, and Carla Zampatti were expressive of a spirited individualism that embraced freedom of movement and reflected the pronounced shift in women's priorities. The popularity of niche boutiques and more affordable prêt-à-porter fashion exerted considerable influence on the diversifying local industry. Epitomising 'flower power' was a pale pink evening outfit (c.1974) by Magg, while a unisex jumpsuit (1978) from Chai featured an airbrushed design of blue razor-blades in a nod to the prevailing punk aesthetic. Internationally, Australian fashion of the early 1980s was probably best remembered for the colourful chiffon outfits and exuberant pictorial knitwear from Flamingo Park, run by designers Jenny Kee and Linda Jackson. In contrast, Maureen Fitzgerald presented more three-dimensional knitted garments integrating other materials like leather, as seen in the rainbow-hued Motion in Colour dress (1983). Desbina Collins offered a pared down, almost severe take on the much-derided 'puffball' concept, with the black and purple silk outfit (1984). A luscious bright red silk suit compris-

ing jacket and skirt (c.1985) from Inārs Lācis would certainly pass muster today. Studibaker Hawk's outrageous ruffled satin Medusa (1986) tiered dress exemplified the 'go big, or go home' mid-1980s look, while its antithesis was a key piece by Martin Grant, slash back coat dress (1986). Here the young designer made concessions to the period with prominent silver fittings, but this deceptively simple outfit relied on Grant's mastery of tailoring and capacity for surprise: skills that led him to establish his own Paris atelier in 1996. In 1989, the Victoria & Albert Museum held its first exhibition of contemporary fashion, the subject surprised many and infuriated some. Australian Fashion: The Contemporary Art brought together the work of more than 50 artisans. The exhibition acknowledged the local industry's development of a distinctive voice within global fashion, whilst retaining an emphasis on individual design aesthetics and recognising the importance of studio-based practice. 200 Years of Australian Fashion (5 March-31 July, 2016) National Gallery of Victoria The Ian Potter Centre,Federation Square, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

Credits: All outfits from the collection of the National Gallery of Victoria. The Prue Acton dresses and the Beril Jents wedding dress are loaned.

A heavily embroidered duchess satin ball gown (1956) was made for Lady (Muriel) Brooks, the wife of General Sir Dallas Brooks, Governor of Victoria. She wore it at a gala reception the vice-regal couple held in honour of the Duke of Edinburgh who was visiting Melbourne for the 1956 Olympics. A swoon-worthy cornflower blue evening dress (c.1960) had a hand-beaded silk bodice that flared out to a silk organza skirt covered in dyed and appliquéd ostrich feathers. The dress appeared in several romantic fashion images by the renowned Melbourne photographer (Louis) Athol Shmith (1914-90); six of his vintage works were installed nearby. The infamous Derby Day appearance of supermodel Jean Shrimpton at Flemington Racecourse in 1965, wearing a simple white mini-dress by Colin Rolfe with no gloves, hat, or hosiery, shocked race goers. This unintentional, but pivotal, moment in fashion history also belied the considerable delay in new styles being disseminated in Australia, where a more conservative look still held sway. In the international media, the incident played out as Shrimpton's chic freshness vs Melbourne's disapproving fusty dowagers. It was emerging local designers who responded to the

Studibaker Hawk, Sydney; Wendy Arnold & Janelle Miles (designers), Medusa (1986), satin, chiffon, cotton, metal, plastic, glass, ink. (Gift of David & Janelle Miles Studibaker, 2003).

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Clockwise from top: La Petite, Melbourne; Pat Rogers (designer) Evening dress (c.1960), silk organza, silk taffeta, ostrich feathers, cotton tulle, glass bugle beads, diamentés, acetate sequins. (Gift of Annette Taylor, 2012). Ball gown (1956), silk, cotton tulle, glass beads, sequins, diamanté, artificial flowers. (Gift of Lady Brooks, 1963). Hall Ludlow, Melbourne; evening gown (c.1953) acetate, metal thread lamé. (Gift of Peggy Stone in memory of the artist, 2011). Beril Jents, Sydney; wedding dress (1952), silk satin, cotton, metal. (Gift of Dr. & Mrs Bob McInerney, 2003). Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, Sydney. Magg, Melbourne; Zara Holt (designer), evening outfit (c.1974), silk, cotton, nylon, viscose rayon. (Gift of Carolyn Fels, 1997). Chai, Melbourne; Clarence Chai (designer), jumpsuit (1978), cotton, shell. (Gift of the artist, 2014).

Credits: All outfits from the ColleCtion of the nAtionAl GAllery of ViCtoriA. the Prue ACton dresses And the Beril Jents weddinG dress Are loAned.

Maureen Fitzgerald, Melbourne; motion in colour dress (1983), wool, leather, synthetic fibre. (Gift of Mr & Mrs Mario Schwal, 1983). Inārs Lācis, Melbourne; suit comprising jacket and skirt (c.1985), silk, acetate, nylon tulle, metal. (Gift of the artist's family, 2005). Martin Grant Studios, Melbourne; dress (1986), linen, silk. (Gift of Rosslynd Piggott, 1999). | 19

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ACCESSORIES When it’s chilly out there and you’ve got a red nose and freezing fingers, it’s hard to feel fashionable. Don’t worry though, you don’t have to resort to the itchy scarves and gloves that your Grandma has knitted, you can still look stylish whilst being snug. WORDS SECONDHAND ROSE WWW.THESECONDHANDROSE.BLOGSPOT.CO.UK

Furs Designers have always had a love affair with fur, but fur stoles made a revival on the Autumn/Winter 2016 catwalk and were a statement making piece. Fur was a necessity for chilly days in the 1900s-1910s for those who could afford it. Women wouldn’t feel feminine and properly dressed without one. Sable, mink, fox and black marten were all the rage. In the 1920s, fur was added as a collar to coats or on the cuffs or bottom. It was also worn as a shoulder wrap. Furs, often with the heads and feet still on, such as fox and mink, were a wealthy woman’s pride and joy. The icons of the 30s such as Joan crawford and Bette Davis were adorned with furs. Fur was still in high demand with sable, mink and silver fox being attached to coats. Things changed during the war though, as it was seen as extravagant to wear it. However, women still indulged when it was cold by wearing their old stoles (think mrs Fox in Dad’s Army) and fur muffler hand warmers. They were more popular with the rich who could afford to wear them during the day, but most women – if they could buy them – saved the accessory for very special occasions. After the war, fur was cheaper and more readily available so it helped to add some glamour to outfits in the 50s and the early 60s. Women continued to accessorise their outfits with mufflers, whilst silk and satin stoles also became available. Fur stoles went out of fashion in the mid-60s, when the mini skirt became popular. Having a fox draped around your neck didn’t quite go with GoGo boots and a beehive!

If you’re a fan of the can flappers, they icon; be your style scarf they loved the style too

Tapping into this nostalgic trend today can be pretty easy, since fur is everywhere. It’s also a great way to upgrade an old coat instead of splurging on a new one, which means more money for your shoe fund. The popular way to wear it on the catwalk was asymmetrically draped around the body. It can be layered over the neckline of coats or a dress in the evening, and can be worn around one or both shoulders or around the neck – the look says luxury and keeps you warm at the same time. Why not keep it traditional with vintage style faux furs such as mink or fox? or, have one with lots of colours, which surprisingly you’ll be able to find quite easily, including monochrome, colour blocked, stripes or even ombré. Some are also lined with fabrics such as satin or a nice print like floral. The choice is endless. This is a real trend to have fun with, whilst keeping you cosy and taking you back to the golden age of glamour.


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Scarves A scarf may seem a little mandatory and an obvious way to keep warm but these small accessories can easily add a vintage touch. During the 20s, less wealthy women who couldn’t afford furs used large silk scarves, folded in a triangle, which they wrapped and tied to one side with a brooch. They could be worn for the day as well as the evening and were beautifully patterned with Asian prints and hand beaded designs. This is a great trend to explore as there are so many beautiful scarves around, including ones made out of velvet which has swarmed the shops – everything has been given the velvet touch. A luxurious velvet scarf wrapped and tied with a glitzy brooch will help add some vintage enchantment to any blustery day. If you’re a fan of the flappers, then they can be your style icon; they loved the scarf style too. Instead of triangular, their scarves were long and skinny with some fringing. You’ll be able to find woollen and velvet styles, as well as scarves made of other materials with fringing. No matter how much fringing the flappers had on their dresses, they still had to keep warm, but in an extremely glamorous way, of course. Gloves Don’t think your gloves just have to be those woolly ones you’ve had in your drawer for the past five years. Gain some inspiration from the glove wearing days of decades gone by. During the 1920s, rich women wore well-fitting long glorious gloves that were made of satin or velvet. In the 30s the long gloves were mainly saved for the evening and for special occasions. Every woman wore gloves when they left the house irrespective of the weather, just like they did with hats. In the day wrist gloves were very fashionable and were made out of leather or cotton. They were accessorised with buttons and wealthier women had gloves made of lace – some even had fingerless gloves. During the war, with the restrictions on clothing material, gloves began to fade out of daily life. However, long gloves were saved for the evening well into the 1950s. To keep their fingers warm, women crocheted or knitted gloves to wear during the day and wore angora mittens for very snowy and cold weather. War or no war, no lady wanted blue fingers. After clothing rationing ended, women had more fabrics and styles available to them. Gloves came in lots of different colours and patterns and gloves that stopped at the wrists were sometimes made out of leather and suede; a trend which continued into the 60s and 70s. Be like a women from the 30s and don’t just make the gloves a necessity, make them part of your outfit. With so many styles available, you can be like a 1950s lady and choose from an array of patterns and designs. Suede is everywhere, so get your 70s groove on with some suede wrist gloves. Go luxurious for the evening, with long lustrous velvet or satin gloves. They will definitely add a vintage vibe to any outfit. Ways to keep warm whilst being fashionable have changed a lot over the decades and we can easily take inspiration from them. In any era, a shower of rain or a flurry of snowflakes is not going to prevent a girl from looking stylish! | 21

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January may be freezing cold but there is no excuse not to look amazing in our choice of winter vintage fashion in mustard and burgundy.



Vintage bag Scarlet Rage Vintage,


Mustard 50s style swing jacket The House of Foxy

Vintage Pringle cardigan Scarlet Rage Vintage

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Mustard Stine shoes Miss L Fire www.misslďŹ

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W W W. V I N TA G E L I F E M A G A Z I N E . C O M

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To be a

Vintage Bride Kate Beavis from the National Vintage Wedding Fair shares some key looks from the 20th century for a vintage loving bride...

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1930s The 1930s wedding dress was often bias cut in silks and lace, which sat delicately over curves, revealing a sensuous look in contrast to the boxy styles of the 1920s. Brides showed off the arms for the first time, covering their shoulders with fur and ostrich stoles. Veils were worn long and positioned at the top or back of the head revealing finger waves and often a rhinestone tiara, although some brides were still choosing wax flower headpieces which had been popular since Edwardian times. 1940s Often brides would borrow a dress that had been worn in the 1930s, which was elegant and close fitting. This was teamed with a borrowed head piece and a long veil although some managed to buy shorter, modern styles. As waiting lists for new dresses were months long, some brides had to make their own, sometimes from curtain fabric or parachute silk. They often had soft padding at the shoulder and matching belts. Weddings often happened in a rush, with brides wearing their best suit instead of a wedding gown. 1950s The 1950s was a great decade for vintage wedding dresses

with most brides choosing to wear a traditional long dress in silk and lace with long sleeves, fitted waists and full skirts to show off their hourglass figures. Tea length or ballerina gowns were influenced by Audrey Hepburn, but interestingly not from her own wedding but from the 1957 film Funny Face where she wore the perfect short wedding dress, designed by Givenchy, teamed up with a short full veil, short gloves and a nosegay of flowers. 1960s The 1960s brought about a shift in attitude towards fashion which included wedding dresses. Designers recognised that a bride wanted a dress that was fitting for a church service, yet one that was also youthful and fashionable. Designers such as Mary Quant and Bellville Sassoon created Ready to Wear dresses in the early 60s which were a shorter knee length yet still with the fit and flare shape from the 1950s. However, most brides still chose a full-length gown with a fitted bodice and A-line column skirt, feeling the need to play it safe. 1970s The 1970s wedding dress was long and floaty with wide romantic sleeves. The mood of the day was bohemian which continues to be a key trend today. Dresses were designed | 25

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Photography: Claire Macintyre Photography / Styling and Dresses: Kate Beavis from The National Vintage Wedding Fair / Accessories: Cherished / Model: Dakota Hunt / Hair and Make-up: Sophie Murray

with layers of polyester chiffon, creating large capes and handkerchief edged details. They were generally high necked with front bibs, covering the bride’s modesty to contrast with the sometimes sheer skirts and sleeves. Many chose to cover up completely choosing historical looks such as the Tudor maid. The National Vintage Wedding Fair has hundreds of original wedding gowns available to buy on the day. They return for the spring season in London on February 12th. For more information visit 100 |

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Photography: Claire Macintyre Photography / Styling and Dresses: Kate Beavis from The National Vintage Wedding Fair / Accessories: Cherished / Model: Dakota Hunt / Hair and Make-up: Sophie Murray


Kate Beavis Blogger, writer and author of the book, Style Your Modern Vintage Home. Also runs the original award winning National Vintage Wedding Fair across the UK | 27

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1900 - 1919

Changing Lives, Changing Shapes

In this issue we’re starting off with the first in a series of five articles that chart the development of underwear in the 20th century. Throughout the series, we’ll be looking at how underwear has not only shaped women’s bodies and defined their lives, but also what constituted the ‘ideal’ female figure as promoted by fashion and advertising. Words liza hollinghurst

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he dawn of the 20th century was heralded in with great celebration and optimism. Britain and her Empire was a powerful political and economic force and its figurehead was the indomitable Queen Victoria. Yet her death in January 1901 at the ripe old age of 81, not only ended an historic reign and commenced that of Edward VII, but signified the start of a century in which women’s lives would be transformed to such great an effect, that no-one could have even contemplated in the 1900s. Underwear was just one aspect of feminine lifestyle subject to such change. As in the 19th century, corsets remained an essential component of underwear; playing an important role in physically defining the female form. Corsets that could constrict, plump, shape and support were still being worn on top of either all-in-one combinations or embroidered cotton lawn chemises teamed with frilly knee-length cami-knickers. However, they had significantly changed from Grandma’s Victorian stays. Typical Edwardian corsets either skimmed the lower half of the breasts instead of fully encasing them or were designed to sit below the bust. These were perfect for achieving the ideal shape of a classic hour-glass: ample in curves with a slim waist and generous bust that threatened to spill out from the bodice of an extravagant evening dress. The ‘pouter pigeon’ was the silhouette sought after by followers of fashion in the early 1900s; whereby the bust was puffed out from above a very small waist and pronounced hips. It was achieved by the ‘‘S-bend’ corset, which supported the top half of the abdomen, tightened in the waist and pulled back the hips to endow the wearer with an ‘S’ shape. This was also known as the ‘health’ corset, because it was supposed to allow the wearer to breathe more freely instead of constricting the chest-wall like Victorian versions. Ironically, the health corset had its drawbacks. Those who had their corset laces pulled tightly to create an exceptionally small waist risked damage to their internal organs, whilst the contorted ‘S’ shape put undue pressure on the spine. Edwardian ladies who may not have been blessed with the desired curves had an array of figure enhancers they could call upon such as ‘bust improvers’ that added fullness to a less than ample bosom. The improver comprised a boned cotton bodice that had gathered rows of lace or concertina-like frills attached to the front, which could be adjusted to plump out the chest and provide a smooth, generous curve when worn over the S-bend corset. Another ingenious garment was the ‘Lemon Cup’ that looked rather like the front section of a modern bandeau bra and was pinned onto the front of a camisole. Inside were two circular ‘cups’ constructed from lightweight coiled spring and padded with horsehair; this was affixed | 29

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to a horizontal whalebone band. The pressure of the breasts against the whalebone would push it out, giving the impression of a well-endowed embonpoint. In the 1910s, the ‘hobble skirt’ created by Parisian designer Paul Poiret, which restricted walking – hence the ‘hobble’– influenced sleek, high-waisted dresses in the Directoire style. Corsets lost their earlier ‘S’ shape, reverting back to a straight fronted and more natural form. To accommodate these new slimline dresses, corsets were now longer in line, reaching down to mid-hip and most incorporated attached suspenders. Previously, stockings were usually held up by garters or a version of the garter belt, so the new addition of attached suspenders gave the wearer more security from the threat of having one’s stocking embarrassingly slipping down to the ankle. By the onset of the Great War in 1914, many corsets had lost their severe rigidity and were being specifically designed for the active lifestyles women were now leading. The social acceptability to participate in sports like cycling, golf and tennis led to the need for more flexibility whilst retaining a ‘respectable’ corseted figure. The ‘Liberty Bodice’ was ideal for physical exertion as it comprised a fabric bodice shaped like a vest, yet lacked the corset’s restrictive boning; being constructed instead with supportive panels or strapping. For many women taking up formerly male roles and involved in strenuous war work such as nursing, munitions and agriculture, the Liberty

Bodice gave them both freedom of movement and comfort under uniforms and overalls. Additionally, 1914 also saw the patent for the first brassiere being issued to American socialite Mary Phelps Jacob, also known as ‘Caresse Crosby’. She devised a forerunner of the bra as we know it, by joining together two separate sections of material to support the breasts; shoulder straps were added and also ties, which were wrapped around the torso to hold the brassiere securely in place. Although warmly received by both women and designers such as Poiret who aimed to free the female form from its previous constriction, it took a further two decades for the brassiere to truly gain worldwide popularity. The post-war years saw the beginning of female emancipation with the Representation of the People Act in 1918 granting the vote to women over the age of 30 who met specific legal criteria. This liberation was starting to extend to clothes too as women had grown used to wearing looser fitting clothes and shorter skirts for both ease of movement and practicality during their war work. By 1919, skirts had shortened to calflength, which did away with the need for long, floor-sweeping ruffled petticoat skirts and the ample Edwardian bosom had also fallen out of favour too, with a smaller, natural bust being the fashionable ideal. In line with these fashions, the corset was now becoming more streamlined and lightweight – a precursor to the fashions of the next decade: the 1920s.

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Jazz Age Fashion and Photographs At London’s Fashion and Textile Museum Words Moya Stone

As an American in London with a fondness for all things art deco, I was thrilled to view 1920s Jazz Age Fashion & Photographs at the Fashion and Textile Museum. On until January 15, 2017 this exhibit offers an in-depth look at women’s fashions during a time of great social change. | 31

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he decade after the First World War was a liberating period for women as they enjoyed more freedoms including working, voting, smoking, and ah... partying. The clothing of the era reflected these changes creating some of the most sophisticated styles of the 20th century. Exhibit curator Dennis Nothdruff says, “In the 1920s women’s fashion became a bellwether of the social and cultural changes that defined the decade. The dizzying array of choices ... allowed the modern woman unprecedented opportunities to express herself.” And that she did, in fur and feathers, silk and linen, with flowers and scarves, gloves and hats. The Jazz Age woman knew how to dress to express, doing so without corsets and with raising hemlines. 1920s Jazz Age Fashion & Photographs includes over 150 couture and ready-made women’s clothes and accessories dating from 1919 to 1929. The pieces come from Cleo and Mark Butterfield, the Devon based couple known for their extensive private vintage clothing collection and for providing examples to fashion greats like Kate Moss and Ralph Lauren. A few things stood out for me in this exhibit, particularly the remarkable condition of the clothing. There is little to no obvious wear on any of the pieces, as if each were just out of the box. I also enjoyed the clever display approach. Everything is placed in period-appropriate vignettes: fabulous velvet coats with fur collars queue up at a Hollywood movie premiere; elegant silk pyjamas kick back in the boudoir; tennis outfits and beach wear, picnic and tea dresses all arranged within charming settings to show off the clothing in action and even close enough to get a good gander for those attendees interested in studying detail and construction. Interspersed among the displays are wall hangings with important details about the era reminding us of what life was like and what was happening around the world. In the last room of the exhibit is the work of celebrated American Jazz Age photographer James Abbe. Portraits of iconic 1920s celebrities like Louise Brooks, Lillian Gish and the Dolly Sisters give us real context of the era. 1920s Jazz Age Fashion & Photographs at the Fashion and Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, London is a rare opportunity to see in an intimate setting the fashions that continue to inspire fashionable people of today. For more information on the exhibit and the museum check out the website:

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In this section


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21/10/2016 18:00


the history of make-up:

ThE sWinging siXTiEs

Christina Cooling Internationally published MUA, specialising in bridal/ special occasion/ theatrical & special effects make-up.



The 1960s was a defining decade for britain, led by a new teenage generation thriving on independence and expression. Within ten short years, london transformed from a bleak conservative city recovering from the atrocities of World War II to the city of dreams, the shining epicentre of style where anything was possible.

ith the abolition of National Service in 1960, young people now had fewer responsibilities and cosmetics mirrored the social changes of the decade. Make-up and fashion were heavily influenced by the interests of the youth, from high fashion to the consumption of recreational drugs. Subsequently two main looks were born: the mod and the hippy. Originally associated with dapper Modernist boys who listened to Jazz, the ‘mod’ look applied to anything stylish, fresh and unconventional. Gone were the days of post-war gloom, with teenagers alive with excitement and freedom. Fashion exploded and with new disposable income to hand, men and women flocked to Carnaby Street and Kings Road to explore the latest styles. Men sought out boutiques and dressed in bespoke Italian suits, while women embraced Mary Quant’s bold and daring miniskirt. The ‘mod’ style favoured striking geometric patterns and black and white prints; this inspired the distinctive mod eye make-up look. Exemplified by the iconic Twiggy, eyelids were painted matte white and then defined with a dark crease line, applied in an arch from the inner to the outer eyelid. The line was razor sharp, with absolutely no blending or smudging. Eyeliner was then used to paint on bottom lashes for a dramatic finish. In the very early sixties, make-up saw the continuation of typical 1950s style, with flicked eyeliner, matte eye shadows and red lipstick. It was the colossal impact of the baby boomers that changed makeup for the masses. Cosmetics were no longer a tool used to emphasise glamour but became playful, representing a new rebellious nature. Music went hand in hand with make-up and everything from Rock and Roll, Motown and psychedelic rock influenced style. Bands like The Beatles, The Small Faces and The Rolling Stones encouraged self-expression and the ability to question authority.

The 60s face focused very much on the eyes, with favourable eyeshadow colours including pastel blues and greens. Max Factor was still one of the leading brands, as was Covergirl, Revlon and Elizabeth Arden. False lashes became the accessory of the decade, with trendy women wearing them every day. Lashes mainly came in black or brown and were made from human hair, synthetic hair or animal hair such as mink or sable. Lashes were so popular that some women even wore two sets, placed on the top and bottom for a real retro flapper effect. Lashings of mascara were essential to complete the look. The rest of the 60s face was understated, to draw attention to the eyes. Cream foundations were used to create a flawless canvas, with concealer to correct any imperfections or blemishes. Blush was very natural and universally matte; delicate peachy hues and soft rose tones were used to add a gentle flush of colour. Lips were also minimalist, with popular colours including pale pinks, beige nudes and peaches. Lip cosmetics however were designed to create a fashionable sheen; Yardley’s Lip Slickers, Max Factor’s Ultra Lucent Crème lipstick and Revlon’s ‘Moon Drops’ all gave the desired finish. Towards the mid-to-late 60s, make-up was used to express happiness and peace as the hippy culture made its mark, synonymous with the flower power movement. Hallucinogenic drugs such as LSD were hugely popular and the effects of such mind-altering drugs were seen in the vibrant and outrageous colours used for face and body paint. One might visualise the average hippy dancing in fields with hair flowing freely, covered in bright colourful flowers. A decade heavily punctuated by social and political upheaval, make-up was viewed in two very fascinating ways. The rise of feminism encouraged some to dismiss cosmetics as a sexual tool objectifying women but many embraced make-up and applied it like a badge of honour, as a symbol of change, liberation and hope for the future.

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try adding a hydration booster or a serum under your current moisturiser!

Q. I don’t usually have any problems with my skin but recently it has dried out a little and feels as if I need a richer moisturiser. I don’t want to invest in a whole new skincare routine if the dryness is just temporary. Can you help? A. Absolutely we can! Our skin can change not just on a monthly basis but on a daily basis due to so many factors: central heating, illness, diet, sleep deprivation, etc. If you have a skincare routine you like already, try adding a hydration booster or a serum under your current moisturiser. These are used to travel deeper through the levels of your skin adding hydration and nutrients further than your moisturiser can get to. The moisturiser you pop over the top locks in the hydration for the rest of the day but better still, you will notice an improvement in your skin over time as it renews itself because the skin coming up from underneath will be in better condition. We love Dermalogica Skin Hydrating Booster (£52.70 and Bobbi Brown Extra Repair Serum (£65.00


OUR BEAUTY CROWN This month’s “Beauty Crown” is a great way to start 2017 with fabulous looking skin! Pure Gold Collagen: this amazing liquid beauty supplement is an ideal product to start the New Year by treating your skin! It has been designed to nourish the skin from the inside out. Containing bioactive collagen peptides (firmness and elasticity) and hyaluronic acid (boosts hydration) these handy daily drinks will have your skin looking and feeling amazing! The result showed increased smoothness, softening of fine lines and a decrease in wrinkles after just six weeks. Plus, it also helps your nails and hair too! Available from Boots and other retailers, priced £35.99 (10 x 50ml bottles).




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Sus an Busse

I LOVE vintage beauty. Without fail, whenever I add a dash of vintage flair (bandana, red lips, red nails, a victory roll, etc.) even to a modern look, it always makes an impression and draws compliments. I feel so beautiful when I dress and style myself, my home, my car and even my Instagram filters with a vintage feel. There’s something uber-feminine and romantic and timeless about all things vintage.

The Beauty Queens Professional make-up artistry team founded by Gina Dowle and Laura Hunt.




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The Evolution of Hair

Sarah Bloor Sarah is the face behind Pin Up Curl, a vintage hairstyling service! She was a contestant on the BBC’s skills based show ‘Hair’ and makes her own range of hair accessories.

THE 1940 S

At the end of 1941 all unmarried women between the ages of 20 to 30 were called to the war effort. The British Government had introduced conscription in with the National Service Act, making the enlisting of women for work duty a legal obligation.


omen became involved in many aspects of military life, for example clerical and administrative positions, truck and ambulance drivers, nurses in war zones, the Women’s Land Army, munitions and steel factories. In short they again took over jobs traditionally done by men, as we saw in the 20s. By 1943 married women were employed for the war effort, leaving the men free to serve in the armed forces. The shorter, highly stylised hairdos of the 30s had given way to longer hair, with more natural looking curls, but longer hair became a hindrance and positively dangerous whilst working the land and working with machinery. Hair had to be tied back and secured under headscarves and turbans, which were practical, smart and even helped to hide pin curls. They also helped to protect the hair from dirt and hide a ‘bad hair day’, as shampoo was considered a luxury and was hard to obtain. Scarves and turbans are still used today by many vintage loving ladies to hide that ‘bad hair day’ or pin curls, including myself! In fact, I’m sporting a turban as I write, because I simply didn’t have time to curl my hair the night before. For women in the armed services, hair had to be worn off the collar, often paired with a hat, and was dressed accordingly. Most of us are familiar with the icon “Rosie the Riveter”, featured on a motivational poster with the slogan “We can do it!” The image has become iconic, one that many associate with women’s roles during WW11.

Hair was something you could use to express your beauty and femininity; women were encouraged to look their best when they could, in fact it was considered to be patriotic and good for morale. It was this sense of patriotism that is said to have birthed the victory roll. There are many theories as to its origin, one being from fighter plane manoeuvres. A circle of exhaust fumes would have remained in the sky after the plane had departed, and inspired many civilians to adopt the name in honour of returning soldiers. The name was also linked to the ‘V’ shape that could be seen when the rolls were styled in a particular way. Rolls were used regularly in 40s hairstyling, being an adaptable part of a finished style. They could be situated at the top of the head, at the sides, along the back and were asymmetrical or symmetrical. Many were combined with a soft half wave. The victory roll styles we see today are more modern, pin-up versions, very popular in the rockabilly scene. They are a look most often associated with vintage hairstyles, and not always easy to master, but once you have, they can be adapted into a multitude of styles. Having straight hair was not the done thing, and soft waves and fluff y curls were teamed with popular elements of 40s hair such as rolls, pompadours, faux bangs and poodles. Pin curls were used to set the hair, either overnight or during the day while shopping or at work. It was a skill passed down from mother to daughter. Some ladies with more money would have visited the hair salon weekly for their set and style, or had perms.

While the war was still raging, setting lotion was hard to come by and so homemade versions were employed – beer, sugar water, or a linseed concoction was used. The back was cut into a ‘U’ shape, called a ‘Middy’ or ‘Middy Plus’ for longer hair. The ends were layered, making it easier to pin curl, and the overall shape was soft and feminine. Vintage hairstyling has seen a boom over the last few years, and is growing in popularity. Some stylists, myself included, purely style, while several also offer the middy cut to give that true authenticity – try Lucille’s Locks in Nottinghamshire and Lucie Luella in Manchester and London. As well as dressed hair, hair accessories and adornments were prevalent throughout the 40s. We have learnt about headscarves, and turbans also became a fashionable item as well as functional. Stars such as Lana Turner helped to popularise such a look. Braids were popular too, either created by someone’s actual hair or using a hairpiece. Ribbons and bows were added – they even represented the romantic situation of a lady by their positioning on their head – on the top meant you were on the lookout for a man, on the back meant you weren’t interested. A bow on the right side indicated that you were deeply in love, on the left, and you were ‘going steady’. I wonder how many men realised this and were thwarted in their wooing attempts! Combs aided updos and pulled the hair to one or both sides. Hairgrips were hard to come by during wartime and had to be looked after, unlike today where we gen-

erally lose them or find them all over the house! Snoods kept the back of the hair tidy, groomed and out of the way. Fine hairnets did the same, but were seen as more sophisticated and chic. Flowers, fresh or made from fabric were placed in the hair on their own, or with hats, turbans and snoods. PERFECT VICTORY ROLLS:

1. Make a side parting and section off one side just behind the ear, to meet with the parting. 2. Gently backcomb the section in layers. 3. Smooth over the top of the section, stroking the hair so as not to disturb the backcombing. 4. Wind around 2 or 3 fingers (depending on length or thickness of your hair). Remember to keep the section pulled taut. This will help form a good shape. 5. Roll down to the scalp and position where it most suits your face shape. Clip in place using a long alligator clip to prevent it from moving while you pin. 6. Using hair grips/bobby pins, secure in place at the anchor point of the roll (where it meets your scalp). Pin at the side of the roll also. 7. Pin at the back, then apply plenty of hairspray, smoothing with your hand as you go. 8. Repeat on the other side and voila! Asymmetric Victory Rolls.

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to s p e t s Q uick



STEP 1: Start by creating a little section at the front of your head and backcomb it to create some volume.

STEP 3: Find a good scarf. Chiffon scarves are great as they don’t slip and they can be found quite cheaply in charity shops, plus they come in a huge array of colours.

STEP 2: Roll the section away from your face and twist it into a little roll then pin it securely in place.

Hair 71.indd 4


Headscarves are perfect for protecting pin-curl sets and hiding bad hair days. Here I take you through the simple steps to creating a handy vintage look with a headscarf that will make all your hair days good ones!

06/01/2017 14:31

beauty STEP 4: Fold the scarf in half so it’s in a triangle shape. Place the scarf around your head and put a hairgrip at the nape of your neck to hold everything securely in place.

STEP 6: The scarf will probably gape open at the top so pull it closed and tuck it all in so everything is covered.

Sarah Dunn

Hairstylist and MUA with years of experience under her belt. Sarah loves vintage and is passionate about the hairstyles and fashions of the past.

STEP 5: Tie the ends tightly behind the front roll. You can then tie them into a bow shape or another knot and tuck the leftover ends into the sides.

TIP: For a bit of added security (especially if you are using a slippery silk scarf) add a couple of hairgrips on either side of the bow/ knot. This will hold the scarf in place and stop the pins being seen.



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for 2017


Another year is over and 2017 is finally here! We’re so excited for the year ahead here at Russell and Brown’s Vintage Salon and there are some really amazing trends beginning to emerge in the vintage hair world which are proving very popular with our super cool clients! From fresh cuts, perfect styles and creative colours, here are our top vintage hair trends for 2017. Hottest Trends: One of the biggest emerging trends for 2017 when it comes to vintage styling is the brushed out bombshell look. Inspired by Instagram stylist stars such as the amazing Tony Medina of His Vintage Touch, the fabulous Miss Rockabilly Ruby and the gorgeous Cherry Dollface, these softer, less structured styles are making a huge impact on the vintage hair scene. Two of the most popular styles in this category are the pageboy and of course classic Hollywood waves. These styles are perfect for the vintage hair virgin as they maintain a soft ness around the face and are not as dramatic in height as some other vintage styles such as the beehive or big victory rolls. They are also perfectly glamorous and adaptable to many face shapes and styles, so why not give them a go this year?

Hottest Cuts: Going hand-in-hand with the brushed out bombshell styles mentioned, one of the hottest cuts on the vintage hair scene is of course, beautiful Bettie bangs. A staple of the vintage hair world, Bettie bangs are inspired by the gorgeously beautiful Bettie Page, and have seen somewhat of a resurgence recently which we feel will continue into 2017. Not for the faint-hearted, Bettie bangs can be somewhat of a commitment, often requiring daily styling with hair straighteners to give them the perfect shape to suit your vintage look. However, having said that, they are perfectly vintage in every way and can transform your image dramatically. Bettie bangs can be worn in a variety of lengths and shapes from blunt and boldly short to curved or pointed and they are definitely set to be one of the biggest cutting trends for 2017.

Hottest Colours: Continuing on from 2016, we are predicting perfect pastels, pinks, greys and silvers to continue to be a huge trend for 2017. These beautiful, often non-permanent colours are great for those looking to change their colour frequently and are perfect for picking up detail on more swirly pin-curled vintage styles. Often requiring pre-lightening, they do require regular upkeep to maintain their vibrancy however, they’re totally worth having, as who doesn’t love unicorn hair!? For those looking to avoid bleach however, another alternative trend for 2017 is the vibrant copper trend. A massively popular option with our clients at Russell & Brown’s Vintage Salon, vibrant coppers can be created without the need to pre-lighten the hair so are a much healthier option and are often permanent so last much longer than pastels. Why not try this out at your next salon visit!?

Carl Brown Professional hairdresser and co-founder of Russell & Brown’s Vintage Salon in Liverpool.

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I n this section



intro pagesTHIS ONE.indd 3

28/09/2016 11:26

sticky resolutions Kitty Von Tastique A qualified personal trainer, group fitness instructor, fitness nutrition coach and wellness coach. She has a passion for everything eco, ethical and sustainable.

it’s January and inevitably those pesky New Year’s Resolutions start popping on to the scene. We always seem to have good intentions but somehow one thing leads to another and before we know it, we’ve fallen off the cart and our resolutions have left the building! So what does it take to make those New Year’s Resolutions stick? Here are some useful tips for setting more ‘sticky’ resolutions.

1. A year has 365 days Most of us put so much emphasis on starting our New Year’s Resolutions on the 1st of January that we set ourselves up for failure. When we fail at our goals after the first few days of the year, most of us bail on our resolutions for good. Rather than putting all of that pressure on ourselves to go bolting out of the gate on the 1st of January, why not pace yourself instead? There are 364 other days to start something new. Treat every new failure is not failure. the very day like the 1st of January.

fact that we have tried setting

2. Be a tortoise Instead of setting a huge goal for yourself to achieve right we are moving towards change. from day one, set yourself a much smaller, achievable goal for the first week of January. When we have a small achievable success early on, we are much more likely to stick to our long-term goal. An easy, early success = stickiness!

goals for ourselves means that

3. Failure is not failure Apparently more than 90% of us fail at our resolutions in the very first week of January. We need to be kind to ourselves and acknowledge that this is perfectly normal. Failure is not failure. The very fact that we have tried setting goals for ourselves means we are

moving towards change. Failure is just a part of our journey. Don't see failure as something final, it's simply an obstacle on the long-term path to success. 4. Accentuate The Positive Set yourself up for success by focusing on the positives. Ask yourself questions like: “Have I ever succeeded at something similar in the past? What worked for me that time that I could try again?” “Do I know someone else who has succeeded? How did they do it? What can I learn from their attempt that might help me achieve my own goal?” 5. It's the 'Why' that makes all the difference Sit quietly and think about the reasons you want to create this change in your life. The reason 'why' you want to change is the anchor you can return to every time you feel like bailing on your resolution. Create 'whys' that focus on what you love, rather than what you are trying to remove from your life. For example, 'I love the feeling of vitality I get when I'm smoke-free!'. Last but not least, remember to be kind to yourself. Some people are good at 'cold turkey' but others should take the slow route for lasting success. Every day is a chance to 'reset' your resolutions!

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Boudoir & body confidence images: Becky ryan

The idea of having a photo shoot may sound daunting to most people (particularly boudoir!), but there is no reason why it should be any less than a confidence boosting experience with an excuse for a pampering session beforehand too! All ladies deserve to be reminded what sassy, sexy, and wonderful creatures they are and feel like a goddess now and then don’t they?


aving had experience of being on the other side of boudoir myself, I feel that when an image is overly staged or even heavily retouched, it can be hard to see yourself in the end result, and thus to gain any confidence from them as it’s no longer ‘you’! So my intention with producing a makeover shoot was to not lose the ladies themselves in any way. No daunting bright lights, I prefer natural light alone, just as it was in person on the day, and using an authentically vintage private home as opposed to an artificial set up in a studio. Plus an amazing hair and make-up team will always make a girl feel just fabulous! Some of our ladies felt more comfortable in dresses as opposed to lingerie for their session, but it was still all about bringing out that inner confidence and looking and feeling beautiful. The whole experience, the pampering and styling beforehand, and the shoot itself, is all designed to make the subject feel a million dollars, and to provide the ladies with proof of just how amazing they are in

the form of their photographs to look back on whenever they need a little reminder. There is such potential in any photo shoot for making a woman feel amazing about herself, and it’s been so rewarding to hear back what a confidence boost the experience has been for each one of our ladies. Here are what a few of our boudoir beauties had to say… “The vintage aspect of the shoot really appealed to me as a point of difference from a normal boudoir shoot. Having previously been a slender, toned, size 8, gym bunny and now being a curvy size 12, I am finding myself struggling with my body image. Body confidence or lack of it, can happen regardless of size. I was dreading getting my photos back and seeing myself but I couldn’t have been more pleased. It made me look and feel amazing. I now realise that the opinion I had of myself and how I look was wildly distorted.” (Eve, 27, Assistant Merchandise Manager, Nottingham)


“The experience has made me see myself in a completely different light. You don’t have to be thin to be beautiful, you don’t have to be larger to be beautiful either,

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you just have to be you and work what you’ve got and I felt like I owned that photo shoot with thanks to the hair, make up and photographer! I stepped out of my comfort zone, stripped off and couldn’t feel better for it! I couldn’t wait to share my photos with others and I’ve had the best responses!” (Rosie, 24, Customer Services, Nottingham) “I have been feeling I look a lot older over the past few years, due to developing a chronic illness. I piled a huge amount of stress on myself and lost confidence in the way I look. The whole idea of having a photo shoot intimidated me and I have never felt photogenic. But I want to do more things that require me to face my fears and overcome them. I don't want my illness to control me. I wanted to feel beautiful again, like I did before my diagnosis. The experience far from exceeded my secret desires to make me feel and look, basically, like a 50s film star. Everything about the day and the experience was brilliant, it is now firmly etched into my happy memory bank.” (Liz, 30, Freelance Artist &Tutor, Derby) “When I saw the photos I was blown away. It didn't look like I'd been made up for a photoshoot, it looked natural, like the photos had been taken from the pages of an actual vintage magazine. The makeover experience was great, with excellent advice given on what worked for me, and what didn't. The photos are just amazing and that's definitely me in them, but it's gorgeous, glamorous me!” (Jo, 36, Event Organiser, London) “In the boudoir session your confidence is built up in steps, first the hair then the make-up, then Becky is great at making you feel relaxed so that before you know it you're modelling without realising it. The vintage look for me has always meant total glamour, it makes me feel amazing and more like a person for myself instead of someone's Mum! Body confidence isn't about size, it's an attitude and with the right tools anyone can achieve it.” (Sarah, 46, Safety Performance Manager, Derby) “Having gone through a period of change in my life and feeling a bit negative about my appearance, I wanted to rekindle that love I should have for myself. The experience gave me back that spark. That knowledge that no matter what size my boobs, bum and hips are I can still feel good about myself.” (Cheryl, 37, Control Manager, Derby)

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eganuary If you’re looking for a kind, healthy and earth-friendly start to the year, why not try Veganuary? Here’s our top ten reasons for giving it a go! Words: noelle vaughn

1. It's kind to animals: One of the biggest and perhaps most obvious reasons, cutting out animal derived products like meat and dairy means we’re doing our bit for animal welfare. 2. It's kind to you: Shown to lower cholesterol and reduce the risk of heart disease and diabetes, health is the second biggest reason people choose a vegan diet. 3. You'll feel fantastic: Getting your five-a-day is easy. Packed with nuts, fruit, seeds, beans and vegetables, and full of anti-oxidants, you’ll maximise energy and feel less sluggish. 4. It'll keep you young and beautiful: A vegan diet avoids those skin-ageing toxins found in anishown to lower colesterol and mal products. reduce the risk of heart disease Our skin loves anti-oxidants and diabetes, health is the second that occur naturally in reason people choose a vegan diet fruit and vegetables, and plant-based foods like flaxseeds and chia will give you plenty of Omega-3 acids to keep your hair and nails strong and healthy. 5. It could help you to live longer: Plant-based diets can help you

live a fuller, longer life. On average, 224 people a day, in the UK, die from coronary heart disease, which has been linked to eating foods high in animal fats. Additionally, the World Health Organisation has reported that processed meats rank as high as cigarettes as a major cause of cancer.* 6. For your face and your place: Guilt-free beauty and household products can be easy. PETA publish an annual list of cruelty-free products. You can check out their recommendations here: http://www. plus you can look for the leaping bunny on cosmetic packaging and the vegan friendly logo. 7. Green is the new black: Did you know that reducing your meat consumption would benefit the environment more than if car use was halved worldwide? A vegan diet is one of the best things we can do to save the planet. 8. You might lose weight: If one of your New Year’s Resolutions is to lose weight after Christmas, replacing animal-based foods with plantbased (like swapping your spaghetti for courgetti) can be a great way to set yourself on the course to weight loss success.

9. It's not just 'rabbit food': It’s not all about vegetables. A vegan diet can be exactly what you want it to be. Chocolate, cakes, pies, pastries, spaghetti, pizza and even cheese can be vegan these days, although they are better in moderation of course. The Vegan friendly symbol makes it nice and easy to grab food on the go. 10. Beat the Blemish: Spot prone skin? I speak from experience when I say that going dairy-free cleared my acne and gave me the best skin I have had in years. Try soya, almond and coconut milks as dairy-free alternatives. Caffeine addicts needn’t worry – with everywhere from Costa to your local café offering dairy-free options, you don’t have to quit the caffeine kick! Maybe that can wait until February! For more information about Veganuary, visit Visit The Vegan Society and try out their Veganalyser to see just what a difference you could make by going vegan: * health-and-families/features/vegan-reasons-health-diet-food-a6713756.html | 45

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My badge of courage has

Glitter Words: Elena Falcon

There’s glitter in your hair. Your rhinestone fell out. Could this old charm have fallen off your bracelet? These are actual statements uttered to me on my journey of leadership in the workplace over the last ten years as a vintage power-dressing executive. Shoulder pads dripping with presence, strong, peplum infused suits casting luminous shadows of capability, rhinestone brooch sets reflecting the determination of Aurora Borealis in my eyes. Joan Crawford in the board room, Marlene Dietrich at the negotiating table.

elena falcon Leader in healthcare in California, inspiring and connecting people through vintage fashion to create more access to healthcare services. Elena is known for her expertise in policy, community advocacy and passion, but also for her colourful business suits, power bouffant and wearing her grandmother’s jewellery.


've also had split seams from 60 year old thread disintegrating at the back of my skirt, buttons fall off in unfortunate places, inadvertent rhinestone snags in my fishnets, clip earring disasters. I've used a small set of pliers and super glue on the fly at work to revive a vintage piece of costume jewellery more times than I can count. I travel with a sewing kit and safety pins in my purse, always. Dear Reader, I know you can relate. While 99% of the comments I've experienced related to vintage work attire were hugely positive, one percent were absolutely dreadful. "If you wanted to be taken seriously, then why'd you buy those glasses," referring to my vintage cat-eye glasses

in a room full of people. If I were conjuring the dramatically effective coolness and icy regard of Joan or Marlene, I might have fired back, "All the better to see you for who you really are, darling." Of course, grace is a true attribute of leadership and enlightenment, along with the courage to be authentically, unapologetically you. So, I had a good laugh with the folks in the room, and meaningfully engaged them in the rest of the presentation. All of this while looking through the lens of my beloved cat-eye glasses, and donning a hot pink 1970s knit Castle-berry suit, trimmed in gold, with shoulder pads. Kind, respectful and acknowledging, but unapologetically present, and unapologetically me.

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While that moment may have seemed insignificant and I have proceeded through far worse since, it has stuck with me as a defining moment years later – 11 to be exact. As I walked from that meeting room I realised that relationships and trust weren't just about being present to them, but tending to them through connection, honesty and courage. Especially in moments of potential personal embarrassment or fear of failure in the workplace. We have all experienced, no matter our position or level in the organisation, fear of being inadequate, fear of failure, fear of being rejected, and fear of not being good enough. From the CEO to the receptionist, this golden thread of doubt, a very human experience, can and often does, weave its way into our subconscious. Consciously connecting with the experience of discomfort and uncertainty as a student, co-worker, team member and leader both at work, is a way that we can practice cultivating courage. In learning and practice, there is a saying attributed to Buddha Siddhartha Gautama Shakyamuni: "When the student is ready the teacher appears." One of my most influential teachers in a recent TEDtalk, Erik Kaufman, of the coaching firm Sagatica said of connecting with our fears at work: "The issue is not how to be fearless. This issue is how to cultivate courage. Courage can be cultivated because it is as much a part of us as fear is. My definition of courage is deliberately walking

towards what you'd rather run away from," he says. "You can do that through the steps of feel, face and embrace. If you can't feel it, you can't move beyond it. Feeling the discomfort of the experience allows you to relate to your fears, name them, and make a plan to embrace them." As members of the vintage community, we have embraced and cultivated courage in dressing the way we do. We are willing to connect to each other honestly through expression of the art form of vintage fashion. We do not fear the experience of being different, and in our dress, we lean towards uniqueness. In this way, we have already related to our fears and so we have evidence and confidence that we can do this in other areas where we may experience fear of failure at work. We have faced our fears before: we will do it again. My badge of courage has glitter in it. It's bedazzled with rhinestones and it certainly has shoulder pads. My badge of courage is my cat-eye glasses, through which I view the world, reminding me of my dedication to the practice of cultivation of courage, kindness and possibility. The poet E.E. Cummings said: "It takes courage to grow up and become who you really are." While I am not confident that I have grown up, I am more certain I have become who I really am. Dear Reader, how will you decorate your badge of courage at work? Will it have glitter too? A representation of that which is courageously, authentically, unapologetically you? A representation of who you really are? Yes, without a doubt, I think so. I believe in you. VL | 49

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universiTy: livin g a Champagne lifesTy le on a ginger beer bud geT well here we are! january 1947, in my mind anyway! i’m now 4 monThs inTo my Time aT universiTy and you’ll be pleased To hear, i have finally seTTled in! a few people have said To me ThaT my universiTy musings are somewhaT like a vinTage “bridgeT jones”! so leT’s sTarT This year off how bridgeT would!

So, as I understand that everyone will be working off the mince pies and Christmas cake, January is my month to plan my February dinner party! I’ve been studying my 1952 issues of Good Housekeeping and have managed to compose a menu from a section entitled “THE InSTITUTE.” I shall be basing my menu on the “Fork Party for 8 Guests.” This menu from the January 1952 issue of Good Housekeeping consisted of:

• • • • • • • • • •

16 sausage simples 8 small prawn moulds 10 haddock tricorns Mousse marguerite 4 or 5 red apple cups 14 savoury cheese boats Bowl of green salad 16 individual fruit flans 6 tall glasses of coffee whips a small trifl e

obviously, we are not in 1952 and there are lots of tastes I need to cater for, making sure my friends who are vegetarian are not just eating the apple cups, cheese boats, the whole bowl of green salad, fruit flans and the trifle! I have also referred to the book Style Me Vintage – Tea Parties. I shall be making some finger sandwiches, crusts cut off of course to make up for the lack of prawn moulds and haddock tricorns, as I don’t eat fish. We shall also be indulging in

Waldorf salad croustini! I’m sure before I have my dinner party, there will be a few changes in the menu! However, there is one thing missing… the staple of any student life: cocktails! I’ve always wanted to try making cocktails; I have an original copy of the Savoy Cocktail book and will also be referring back to the Style Me Vintage – Tea Parties book, which has an abundance of cocktails in it, ranging from the simple Minty Fresh Cocktail to a Los angeles Sunset – which may be the opposite of Tequila Sunrise! I’m starting to see that this is going to turn into “The Very Vintage Bake off.” But I am certain it will be a blast! Hopefully I will learn some new and exciting tips and tricks about hosting parties. now, I am going to design some invitations and start planning. Wish me luck!


new Year’s Resolutions for 2017: • Host afternoon tea or play vintage hostess trying vintage recipes. • Spend less time at the doctors. • Make more time for my writing. • Get fit by attending Jive and Lindy classes. • Learn some new crafts and follow the make do and mend mindset. • Dedicate more time to my friends helping them and making them happy.

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i love museums and attend as often as i can, especially during the colder months when vintage events are limited; the indoor activity of learning more about history to see the influences or outcomes of my favourite decades greatly appeals. wanting to go somewhere new, i visited the leicester space Centre, the outcome of which made me ponder how different modern life would be if the atomic age had not happened.

Charlie Adams Charlie has been collecting 1940/50s clothing and accessories for over a decade, being addicted to novelty prints and Bakelite.


he atomic era started with the detonation of the fi rst nuclear atomic bomb in 1945; this scientifi c achievement is given the credit of ending WWII, however global peace was not granted, countries were still competing with one another wanting to prove their dominance over ideology and technology. The Cold War soon began; although no battles took place, the threat of global nuclear destruction was real, with both the US and Soviet Union making grand military technological breakthroughs. However, these advancements also opened the door for many new possibilities, making the dream of the exploration of space possible. This was seen as a benefit to mankind, capturing the imaginations of all across the world showing that farfetched dreams could in fact turn into realities, although the military benefit of the space race was the global announcement of how far each country could, in essence, send a nuclear missile. In the public domain this was turned to national pride as a distraction from the Cold War and global recession. In 1955 both countries declared they would be launching a satellite into space, thus the Space Race began. In 1957 the Soviet Union launched the first satellite Sputnik 1 to orbit the planet; in the following years each side celebrated many victories, the most famous of which being the US 1969

apollo 11 mission that saw the first men on the moon. So I asked myself, how did this change the lives of everyday men and women? When I asked Dan Kendall, the curator at The Leicester Space Centre, he told me: “It’s a general assumption that a huge amount of money is spent on space exploration – and whilst this is true, it doesn’t reflect all of the good that has come about as a result of cutting edge space technology, much of which impacts on our day-to-day lives. “Many of us use satnavs in our cars or Google Maps, without giving much consideration to the network of satellites orbiting the Earth above. Space technology impacts our lives in many other – often less obvious – ways too, ranging from memory foam mattresses or digital image sensors in our smart phone cameras, to shock absorption systems used to protect buildings against earthquakes and improved food safety standards. They all owe their origins to space technology, and are only a few of the many things that have had a far reaching benefit to modern life.” However there were more than just technological advances: fashion, furniture, entertainment and architecture were all influenced. Designers had a new theme for inspiration, characterising the new Space age designs by the use | 51

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of symbolic imagery of motion, such as flying saucers, boomerangs and atomic motifs and starbursts (which has now become the classic 50s look). Googie architecture was born, with key features of upswept roofs, geometric shapes and the bold use of neon, glass and steel. Based in California but having global influence, this was most popular with coffee houses, motels and gas stations. Bringing the future to the masses and making it part of their everyday lives (even today’s new build fast food restaurants have a clear Googie aspect to them) . Not only did buildings change but also what was inside them: clocks with satellite design, atomic shaped lights, pod chairs, Keraclonic television, kidney shaped tables and space age symbols used in upholstery and kitchen wear became the fashion for interior design, all looking in place in a space ship or home alike. The 1956 Ideal Home Exhibition in London saw the ‘House of the Future’ designed by British architects Alison and Peter Smithson. The house was a cross between an atomic bunker and a spacecraft, being full of futuristic designs and labour-saving devices. Cars also developed a space age look about them, with radio antennas similar to Sputnik’s, the wide use of chrome and the add-on of car tailfins giving the aspherical look of rockets – the like of Cadillacs and Lincoln Futuras looked like they really could take off – to the later 1960s designs of bubble and pod look vehicles like moon buggies. The Space Race influenced many young fashion designers, with André Courrèges being the forerunner, releasing his space-age collection in 1964. This was a radical change from the style of the 50s, consisting of angular mini dresses, trouser suits accessories with goggles, flat boots and helmets, being made of heavy materials in whites and silver, these clearly showed that astronauts had landed on the catwalk. His skirts got shorter and there is much debate whether it was Courrèges and not Mary Quant who invented the mini skirt. One of the most famous examples of his range is the white hat and dress ensemble worn by Audrey Hepburn in How to Steal a Million. The ‘Moon Girl’ look is a classic style of the 60s, without which films like Barbarella would not be the same. The Space Race gave new direction for film production, capturing the topical ideas of what lies in wait among the stars and the

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future of humanity; new set designs, futuristic technology and alien monsters gave writers an endless amount of possibilities for new story lines but it also related true fears of society, as seen in 2001: A Space Odyssey – would robots/technology outgrow mankind? The question of what it is to be human highlighted social, ideological and environmental issues. People were seeing themselves from a whole new angle, from outer space – from a new perspective. The role of women in the future was questioned; while previously a small amount of films had female leads, these were more often than not weak characters that needed a man’s help to survive, however with the increase of science fiction productions women were given more leading roles, representing strong, empowering positions. Also in 1957 the first colour cartoon was made for TV, this was Colonel Bleep; he was a futuristic alien from the planet Futura, who with the help of his sidekicks protected the planet Earth. For me it is hard to think of films or TV programmes from the 50s-70s that were not influenced by the space race. Films: Forbidden Planet, The Day the Earth Stood Still, Plan 9 from Outer Space, Invasion of the Body Snatchers, The Thing, Planet of the Apes. TV: Lost in Space, Dr Who, The Jetsons. Science fiction gained in popularity and was no longer just a genre but a possibility. The Space Race also had social economic influences. In Nathalia Holt’s book Rise of the Rocket Girls she tells the true stories of the women at NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory, whose work during the 40/50s changed the course of history. Some of these women advanced to hold important key roles in NASA. A few of these women were Afro-American. President Franklin Roosevelt was the first to open Federal war jobs to the black community; their story is to be released in the film Hidden Figures this month. WWII may have opened the doors for women and Afro-Americans into the workplace, but in NASA they were there to stay. It was a group of mixed race women that made ‘one small step for man’ possible. It led the way to influence future generations of women to enter mathematical and scientific fields. The future as predicted by the likes of Buck Rogers was not reached by the 21st century. But with space travel available for all, the first steps on Mars and the possibility of communities in space still a dream; the effects of the atomic age are still very much with us. VL | 53

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the meaning of pin-up As a collector of and dealer in vintage nightwear and lingerie, I find myself using the term ‘pin-up’ a lot: in social media tags, in online shop headings and as a description for the lovely models who I’m lucky enough to get to showcase my pretty things with, in photoshoots and on the catwalk.


Words: Susie Pritchard (

n fact, it’s an expression I see an awful lot these days and I wonder if the original meaning of ‘pin-up’ is getting a little lost amid all that is vintage, or is it simply that the concept of what is ‘pin-up’, is evolving? Nowadays it often seems to be used to describe a look or outfit that is just a bit vintage or retro and indeed involves being fully clothed. It really means just what it says – a ‘pin-up’ image was something ephemeral and informal, literally to be cut-out of a newspaper or magazine, or collected and ‘pinned-up.’ Vintage lovers will probably relate this to the Second World War (apparently that’s when the actual term was first used in Great Britain), with soldiers everywhere pinning-up photos of their favourite glamour stars, who were generally models or actresses and dressed in very little. These lifted their spirits, with the likes of the ‘Varga Girls’ appearing in Esquire magazine. In fact, the concept of pin-up had started well before that. In the late 19th century, actresses and burlesque dancers in a pre-social media era recognised the importance of getting themselves ‘out there’ by means of photographic images. These were often on cards, which could be found pinned up in dressing rooms and anywhere they got the chance to leave them to be picked up. For me, the 1950s was a golden age

for pin-up photography and art and of course for the pin-up girls themselves – models such as Bettie Page and starlets like the young Marilyn Monroe. To me, those beautiful photos of Marilyn in her starlet days wearing swimsuits and platform sandals are pure ‘cheesecake,’ a term which again goes way back to 1915, when press photographer George Miller asked the opera singer Elvira Amazzar to hike up her skirt for his photo as she disembarked her ship in New York – the editor of the publication in question apparently later exclaimed, “Why, this is better than cheesecake!” ( The term is also a good descriptor of the lovely, mid 20th century baby doll nighties that I sell, as the word ‘cheesecake’ seems synonymous with frills, frothy lace and pastel colours! Importantly, cheesecake and pin-up images feature women that are scantily clad and sexually attractive, but in no way do they tend towards pornography – just like a baby doll nightie that is a little sexy and provocative, but still retains an air of cute innocence. Of course, pinning up images of attractive babes was not just for the guys, the term ‘beefcake’ was coined to describe the genre of male pin-up images, dating back to the likes of Rudolph Valentino in the 1920s and

again hitting a peak in the 1940s and 50s when it became very fashionable to shoot actors like Tyrone Power, Tony Curtis and Rock Hudson shirtless and in swimming trunks, to highlight their physiques. ( As the 20th century moved on, we were treated to the likes of Nick Kamen stripping to his boxer shorts in the fab 1980s Levi adverts. I know for sure that a friend of my husband collected every magazine he could find that featured Samantha Fox and I suspect that for many of us, our ‘pin-ups’ increasingly became pop stars. I for one definitely cut all the pictures of Shakin’ Stevens out of Smash Hits and pinned them up on my bedroom wall. Traditionally, the term does mean an image of a provocatively dressed, attractive person that one might enjoy pinning up in one’s environment to brighten your day. In my world, this means lovely pin-up models in vintage nightwear and lingerie, whether male or female.

Model Goldy Loxx wears vintage baby dolls from Wake Up Little Susie, images by Juliet Louise Photography & Editing. Model Roxie Roulette wears vintage nightwear from Wake Up Little Susie, images by Luminoso Studios. Model Simon Pritchard wears vintage loungewear from Wake Up Little Susie, image by Kerry Curl. | 55

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a land girl’s CoTTage


appy new Year! I hope all you retro mummies and your fabulous families had a wonderful Christmas and new Year. I am currently sat at home waiting on the arrival of my baby number two! I can feel her wriggling around, desperate for some space. She is due any time this month so fingers crossed she will meet her big brother soon. Her imminent arrival has got me thinking of my most favourite times spent with my first born, Beau. I always look forward to holidays spent with him. But one in particular that happened just last year, was a particular favourite of ours as it was spontaneous and only for the night, like a little adventure! I am lucky that my son, who is five years old, loves attending vintage fairs and shows with me; he particularly likes learning about World War Two so he was super excited when I took him to stay at the Land Girl’s Cottage near Glastonbury. It is a sweet little house, once the owner’s shed, refurbished to resemble the accommodation the Land Girls lived in during the war. Land Girls were

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members of the WLa – Women’s Land army. They played a fundamental role during WW2 providing Britain with food at a time when U-boats were destroying many of the merchant ships that were bringing food supplies to Britain. a lot of the women came from the cities and so little cottages like this were built to accommodate them. The cottage was complete with an original kitchen, record player, wood burning stove and oven, Victorian bath with the essential coal tar soap and sand bags at the doors, corrugated walls, milk in glass bottles and marmalade for breakfast. There were even little mouse holes cut out of the skirting boards with little toy mice poking their heads out for Beau to spot – a sight that would have been very typical in the Land Girl’s cottages during the war. Beau said the best part was that it even had its own anderson shelter; we had great fun hiding out in it! So if you’re looking for a place to adventure during 2017, while at the same time educating the little ones, why not check out: landgirls for availability.

05/01/2017 11:34

A Good Old-Fashioned

Start to the Year! Words: RaCHEL PaLMER

happy new year! have you made any new year’s resoluTions? if you haven’T, may i suggesT one – eaT breakfasT. i know iT sounds simple buT eaTing breakfasT is one aspeCT of The good ol’ days ThaT many of us have lefT behind and definiTely one ThaT should be baCk in fashion.


started eating breakfast again about two years ago when I was trying to lose weight. I’d read that the best way to reduce and maintain your waistline was to make sure that you never let yourself get ravenously hungry. If you plan to eat regularly, you’re less likely to binge or snack on crisps and biscuits. We’ve all been there. It’s half an hour before lunch and you’re so hungry you could eat a horse – no wonder if you haven’t eaten since 6pm the day before! Being very hungry before noon contributes to us making poor food choices at lunch time and a lack of concentration in the morning. Children who eat a proper breakfast tend to reach their goals at school and pre-school children with full tummies have extra energy to play and grow.

We all know that we should eat breakfast, but if you’re anything like me, you’d rather have an extra 15 minutes in bed than start cooking up a storm. Why not lay a pretty table the night before and make a meal of it? A proper cup of tea and a chat with your loved ones first thing could be the perfect antidote to a busy family life. If that doesn’t sell you on the idea of eating breakfast, hopefully these three super simple breakfast ideas will. How to Boil an Egg Yes you read that correctly! It may sound oversimple but let’s be honest, how often does your egg turn out just right? We’ve taken the below timings from Saint Delia Smith herself so yours is sure to be perfect. Toast soldiers are perfect for dipping and a

why noT lay a preTTy Table The nighT before and make a meal of iT?

fun food for little ones. 1. Bring a pan of water to the boil. 2. Carefully lower your eggs into the water (which should cover them completely) and cook for exactly 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the eggs to sit in the hot water for the following times. Runny – 5 minutes Soft boiled – 6 minutes Hard-ish boiled – 7 minutes How to Make Proper Porridge Th is method was explained to me whilst on a trip in the Highlands, so it’s as authentic as they come and great for children. Just use whatever milk they’re currently having. For one person. ½ cup porridge oats 1 ½ cups cold water (or milk) A pinch of salt (if you’re

Rachel Palmer Rachel is mum to Beth and Dorothy and has been writing a vintage inspired lifestyle blog for five years. Rachel’s website is and instagram handle is @vintagefolly | 57

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don’t forget your camera and plenty of batteries to capture all of those wonderful memories that you are going to make with your loved ones!

making it for grownups.) 1. Place your oats in a hot pan and cook them for a few minutes, stirring continuously, until they start to smell sweet. 2. Pour over the water and stir well. Reduce the heat slightly and continue to stir until you slowly bring the mixture to the boil. Turn the heat down and simmer on a very low heat for five minutes. Serve with a little cream, honey or jam to taste. If you love the creamy, comforting texture of oats but don’t have time for pot stirring first thing, combine 1/2 cup of oats with 1/2 cup of milk and leave in the fridge overnight, for a deliciously quick breakfast. How to make Breakfast Bars There’s always one family member who either cannot get up in time or has to leave far too early, to sit down for breakfast. We have to make concessions for them and so here is my take on a family f lapjack recipe, which I’ve crammed full of good stuff to give those people a boost as they rush out of the door. If you’re planning on giving these to children under one, be sure to omit the honey.

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150g dates 80g sultanas 40g f laked almonds 1 tablespoon poppy seeds 200g margarine 340g oats 2 tablespoons crunchy peanut butter Honey or syrup to taste. 1. Preheat the oven to 160/gas mark 3 2. In a pan melt the margarine, peanut butter, honey and maple syrup. 3. Chop the dates into very small pieces 4. Add the dates, sultanas, poppy seeds and flaked almonds to the pan and combine. 5. Add the oats and stir until fully coated 6. Press into the greased oven tray and bake for 30 minutes. 7. Allow to cool fully before slicing into bars. The breakfast bars will keep for 3 days in an airtight container. This recipe makes a whole tray full so you may want to freeze some of the batch.

Credits: 1940s nightie from Revival Vintage Handknitted Tea Cosy from Cate's Craft Corner Crockery - Vintage Model – Rachel Palmer Photographer - Bethany Palmer

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The Brogue Now come on chaps, how many pairs of these do you have? Surely, you must have at least one pair? I’ve got a brown and a black pair of Wingtip Oxfords, a cream and tan pair and a black and white pair of Co-respondent Wingtip Ox-

R Paul Marland-Griffiths Paul is a full time teaching assistant in a Primary School in Oldham as well as a foster carer.

ecognisable by their multi-panel construction, with each piece having a perforated pattern on their visible edge and shallow cut holes to decorate, the brogue is a staple choice of shoe for the modern dandy. Whether for walking, working, weddings or just looking good in, the brogue is, in its many forms, a style of shoe for all seasons. All occasions. Originally an outdoor utility shoe, the brogue originated in Ireland and Scotland. Its name comes from the Gaelic word - brog, meaning shoe, in turn coming from the Viking term brok meaning ‘leg covering’. The brog, now known as the Billie brogue, were made from cattle hide, which was perforated with holes allowing water to escape after wading through shallow water or squelching through bogs (when hunting for ‘the wee beasty’ no doubt.) Brogue is also the name that was given to the bradawl-like tool used to create the holes – a job now done by machine press. The Gillie brogue is still worn today as part of the traditional Scottish dress, normally in black. As well as the perforations on this original style being of a very practical purpose, they also have their ‘laces’ going up the lower part of the leg preventing mud coming into contact with the fastening knot. The properties of the original brog, perforated decorative edges and jigsaw pattern, were taken into the production of more formal tanned and treated leather shoes. Brogues were the Doc Marten of the early 18th century. Practical, robust shoes, made for field and farm work that were taken on by students at Oxford

University as high fashion, resulting in the brogue being manufactured in a wide range of variations as they shifted into mainstream fashion. By the 1920s, ladies’ low heeled shoe styles began to take on the brogue’s properties and the two tone style, particularly black and white, became prevalent during the jazz era of America. Variations in ‘cut’ began to appear in the early 20th century, such as the ‘semi-brogue’ and ‘quarter-brogue’ shoe. Both of these shoes have a straight finish toe cap, the ‘semi-brogue’ having a perforated toe pattern and the ‘quarter-brogue’ not. These shoes were popular with the fashionable young men who were wearing a full fabric cut trouser such as ‘Oxford Bags,’ where only the toe of the shoe could be seen. The two tone style returned in America with a vengeance in 1957, with the release of the film Jailhouse Rock. Though Elvis himself did not wear brogues in the film, the craze for the two tone loafers he wore saw a massive rise in sales for two tone shoes in general. Interest returned in the two tone brogue in the 70s, popular on the disco scene. Yet, through the decades of the 20th century, the brogue has become a muted flamboyant, multi purpose shoe, made in a variety of materials. The identifiable properties of the multi-piece and perforation classic can now be seen on sports training shoes, lady’s stilettos and Wellington boots amongst many others. Over the years they have also become a reliable yet pleasantly aesthetic office shoe, as has the Oxford shoe, for the style conscious businessman in both shoe and boot form.

Image by Jenny Martin Photography

fords, and a pair of Longwing Derbys. | 59

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in the home

vintage dRess WaLLPaPeR a striking wallpaper by the brighton based illustrator dupenny. Part of the mid century range and inspired by dress-making sewing patterns from the 1950’s. this colour version is perfect with its hits of warm orange or go for the black and white option if neutrals are more your thing. available direct from or check the site for other stockists both online and on the high street. £65 per roll


Rosie’s vintage WaLLPaPeR if you prefer your wallpapers authentically vintage then check out they have a huge collection from the early 1900s right through to the 1970s including this amazing French toile design. Who doesn’t love a bit of French vintage? or how about a 1930s kitchen theme wallpaper in orange and yellow on a beige background – perfectly kitsch! $115,

MUST HAVES for your home

WITH: cHRistine oF coPPeR and asH


PeaRL de bRessy if you fancy your vintage with an otherworldly twist you are going to love the striking range of wallpapers by Pearl de bressy. i predict this new design team is one to watch. innovative, eco friendly and stunningly beautiful, their designs will add a wow factor wherever they are used. they also perfectly illustrate that wallpaper is not just for walls. check them out at

Paint of course wallpaper may not be your thing and even if it is, you will still need some paint. grey is such a versatile neutral colour that can be teamed with almost any colour you could wish, whether your preference is for beautiful soft pale greys or dark and dramatic there is lots of choice around. Here are my picks of the best pale to mid greys for your walls – the perfect backdrop for some statement pieces. clockwise L-R: Laura ashley (Pale dove grey), Farrow and ball (elephant’s breath), Little greene Paint co (Rubine ashes), dulux (engraved Locket)

coming from a background covering engineering, property renovation and interior design, and with a love for the beauty of vintage and antique furniture, christine decided to combine them all and copper and ash was born. christine now spends her days breathing new life into vintage pieces, creating bespoke furniture just perfect for today’s interiors. mainly working to commission with a small selection ready to go in her unit at botany bay, chorley

HamPstead 50s Line WaLLPaPeR Range available in several colourways, my favourites are the beautiful cool grey and yellow apple. From the Little greene 20th century papers range, the Hampstead is an accurate recreation of a design from the 50s attributed to the designer els calvetti. the colours and line detail are exquisite and work just as well in the 21st century interior – a thoroughly modern vintage.

a brand new year, a brand new start. after last month’s celebrations it’s time to take stock and make resolutions,so why not resolve to make your home your own kind of haven?Whilst it is great to keep an eye on trends, to truly feel relaxed in your home it should reflect the person you are. this month’s feature introduces you to a collection of wallpapers and paints that are sure to inspire.

uPcycLing the big news right now is the 21st century version of ‘make do and mend’ – upcycling! vintage pieces with a contemporary twist. if you want to have a go at transforming a piece yourself we have a fabulous range of colours in our Annabell Duke chalk paints along with finishing waxes and sealers. Why not try our own exclusive colour ‘midnight velvet’, a beautiful dark blue reminiscent of midnight skies and velvet ballgowns. don’t be afraid to go bold, think castle grey with mustard Pot for an elegant retro feel or cloudy skies with st clements. if bold colours are a little too much try adding them to interiors of drawers for a pop of colour that won’t over power. or if painting isn’t your thing, why not commission a piece professionally finished to give many years of pleasure.

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Reloved with Rachael My client had been eager to refresh her outdated dĂŠcor in her dining room for sometime and the task was so overwhelming that she simply shut the door on the project, literally and metaphorically.


Words: RacHaeL ReaRdon

hile she longed for a light, clean uncluttered space to entertain guests and hold dinner parties again, her family commitments and heavy work load as an A&E nurse meant that after a busy shift, and caring for others, there were just not enough hours in the day to commit to an overhaul. To begin with, all the years of paperwork and clutter was removed; we had an initial colour consultation, whereby my client Alexandra showed me the wallpaper she had chosen, so I picked out one of the accent colours to match with the furniture paint. Alex also showed me some of her vintage china that had been longing to be displayed in her cabinet, and I suggested that we also theme the room around the set. To this, Alexandra decided to invest in a vintage cake stand, with the view of holding some afternoon tea parties with friends. Already we had begun; there was a vision in mind. The room was to become feminine, elegant and cosy again.

The colour I chose to paint the orange pine furniture in was Palmyra by Vintage with Grace Chalkpaint, a company based in Cheshire that offers commission work on furniture and is a brand of chalkpaint. Before the painting and wallpapering was to be carried out, the dining table needed to be sanded back to remove the felt tip pen marks that over the years had enhanced the character and growing up stages of both Alex's children. It was a shame to see them disappear, as they were testament to their early years, however, it was time to give the table a new lease of life. With the chairs, cabinets, and table repainted it was time to dress the room with new curtains, wallpaper and then finally create a beautiful table space for all of Alex's vintage china and glass wear. Preparation and method *No primer or sanding required *Make sure furniture is clean before painting *Brush or roller your surface *Wax to seal and protect | 63

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Still in Bloom at 81


Dutiful bees tend drifts of azaleas while bluebells nod happily nearby. Dappled sunlight filters down on to the tulips, magnolias and lilacs, growing happily next to gum trees and waratahs. Meanwhile, a beautiful Kookaburra perches cheerily above, in an ancient pine. Such is the gorgeous and balanced symphony that is the garden at Everglades, in the Blue Mountains of NSW, Australia. Words: kitty von tastique

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images by


his beautiful garden was designed by landscape designer Paul Sorensen and commissioned by Industrialist Henri Van De Velde in the 1930s. The moderne-style house on the property was finished in 1936 and includes miles of curvaceous stone walls and paths that are a Sorensen signature style. The land was previously home to an overgrown orchard and native bushland but over four years the new garden emerged; a unison of romantic European elements, modernism and the Australian 'bush'. Exotic plants and trees were imported from Europe, America and Asia, and planted side-by-side with the stunning native flora. The garden design also included both formal and informal gardens, making use of the landscape by stepping the garden down the hillside. A reporter once described the mass plantings of colour in 1938 as having the heroic scale of a Wagner opera and today I can attest to the fact that they are still like giant waves of sherbet across a canvas of muted green. The brightness of the introduced species seems almost surreal against the more subdued tones of the Australian bush, yet somehow they seem perfectly balanced together. The home on the property is also of the epic variety. The original furnishings are gone but the beautiful bones of the house remain. The warm monotone hues of the butter-coloured stucco washes over the entire property with only Van De Velde's private rust-coloured bathroom and the ornate black stairwell as contrast. A huge Venus-like bath takes pride of place in his wife Una's palatial bathroom and views are framed out of well-planned windows to make the enigmatic vistas of the Blue Mountains themselves, the star of most of the rooms. | 79

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SPARKLE ith the christmas decorations packed away your home can start to look a little dreary so spruce it up with some good old-fashioned cleaning techniques.

Wooden suRFaces to give wooden surfaces back their lustre, mix one part lemon juice with two parts olive oil and apply to your wood. allow to soak in for 30 minutes before buffing to perfection with a clean (lint free) cloth.

These days the home is owned by the National Trust and staffed by local volunteers. Scott Pollock manages the property today and is indeed a man with a huge legacy to nurture. To his credit, Everglades is still the beautiful jewel she always was, still drawing huge crowds to take in her fabulous gardens. It's great to know that Everglades will remain forever in bloom, thanks to all who continue to maintain her coat of many colours. If you are visiting the Blue Mountains make sure you stop in to say 'hello' to this grand old dame of gardens gone-by and appreciate the unlikely yet harmonious legacy now enjoyed by the kookaburras, the azaleas and the tourists that visit Everglades every single day.

cLean tHose Pots and Pans After all that festive cooking you may fi nd you have stubborn stains on pans and cutlery that won’t come off however much you douse them with washing up liquid or run them through the dishwasher. in the event of ground in grime, i refer to the advice of mrs beeton, who recommends a solution of warm water and baking soda, scrubbed in hard using a crust of bread. When dealing with vintage cutlery that has crossed the line from ‘a bit stained’ to ‘actively rusty’, plunge the knife blades or forks into a large onion a few times. this is incredibly effective and you can vent frustrations at the same time. so get your rubber gloves at the ready for some good clean fun and may you enjoy a Happy new year and a splendidly sparkling home in 2017.

this article is based on the writer’s own experience and neither the writer of vintage Life are responsible for any outcome that arises from the following the article above. the solutions produced may not be suitable for the materials used in your home.


Words: seRen HoLLins

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! e i t e e w S l a n o s a e S Keep It





Chicory / Witlof one of my ‘top Five’ veggies, this lovely little cigar shaped, leafy veg is actually grown in the dark (either underground or indoors), which is why it has that slightly faded complexion but this little veg definitely still deserves the limelight. Although the leaves are slightly bitter (the whiter the leaf, the less bitter the taste), I find them absolutely perfect for using as ‘nature’s spoons’. I pull off the leaves individually, arrange them like a flower in a circle on my plate, and fill them with some brown rice, quinoa, corn kernels and smoked paprika, etc. the bitter taste works well with smoky, savoury fillings and I love that crunch you get when it’s raw!

Passionfruit passionfruit is clearly something sent from a heavenly realm; in fact the name comes via spanish missionaries who thought that passion flowers symbolically portrayed ‘christ’s passion on the cross’. No summer fruit salad here in Australia, or dare we say pavlova, is complete without this juicy little star. high in vitamin c, the passionfruit is perfect for adding to juices, drizzling over a raw, cashew cheesecake or just generally adding some ‘fabulous’ to your day! Yes, I am a big fan!

Cauliflower Cauliflower is basically the ‘new rice’ with loads of health conscious food lovers swapping the two these days. pop about half a large cauliflower in the food processor, blitz until it is in rice size pieces, cook in the microwave for approximately seven minutes and there you have it! Cauliflower ‘rice’! Much lower in carbs than rice, low in fat too and high in vitamin c! Rhubarb rhubarb is a comfort food favourite with an ancient history and a cautionary tale. Most people are familiar with rhubarb as part of a rhubarb pie and it is actually called the ‘pie plant’ in some 19th-century cookbooks. historically it was also eaten as a tender stick dipped in sugar. the chinese have used rhubarb as a medicine and laxative for several millennia but a word of caution, never eat the leaves as they contain poisons including oxalic acid (apparently a problem during WWI when people saw the leaves as a potential food source).

Strawberries strawberries are perfect right now and are a great source of vitamin C. The fi rst garden strawberry appeared in France in the late 18th century but strawberries themselves are truly ancient. they have often been used to represent purity, passion and healing and the fi rst botanical strawberry illustration appeared in 1454. they are perfect in fruit salads, smoothies, on breakfast cereal and for something different, try them in a salad with baby spinach and some pine nuts. Snow Peas legend says that snow peas are one of the oldest known cultivated vegetables, dating back approximately 12,000 years! these lovely legumes can be eaten pod and all, plus the stems and leaves are often used in chinese cooking. they are surprisingly high in vitamin c when left raw. Beautiful both raw and cooked, you can use them in a salad with a little honey, sesame and soy dressing, plus they are perfect in stir fries too!

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Keep Calm... INTRODUCTION: chArlotte WhIte

& Fanny On

Charlotte White Is the creative force behind restoration cake, designer of Bespoke celebration cakes! Author of Deliciously Decorated and Burlesque Baking and regularly shares her baking tips at live foodie events such as the cake & Bake show and even in the Kenwood Kitchen at the Goodwood revival! | 95

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kitchen Apple charlotte

I have long been a fan of Keep Calm and Fanny On, the wonderful blog penned by foodie and retro lover Kevin Geddes. We bonded instantly over our love of the fabulously terrifying Mrs. Cradock and giggled over the idea of me dressing up as the lady herself… neither of us knew quite how hilarious these pictures would turn out! If you love retro food, I recommend that you hop on over to keepcalmandfannyon. I’ll hand over to Kevin here: To help me celebrate 200 retro-tastic posts I've been chatting to my Deliciously Decorated favourite cake designer, modern-day Fanny Cradock, Charlotte White, and she's only gone and dressed-up as Fanny for the occasion! Fanny thought she was bringing retro back in the 1950s-1970s, and now we look back at those times as 'retro' what does 'retro' mean to you and why are we obsessed with bringing it back? Funnily enough, when I think of retro food, I think of Findus Crispy Pancakes and Birdseye Potato Waffles! I think that the element of nostalgia is irresistible to us – it seems to be in our nature to look back to the recent past through rose-tinted glasses. We do this with fashion and music so why not with cuisine too? Fanny lived through a great deal of social change as well as the huge impact of rationing, which I genuinely believe is still felt in some

Custard sauce

generations. My own father was born in 1954, the year that rationing ended, so it should have had no effect on him but his capacity for sugar makes me wonder if my grandparents made up for the years of scarcity with plenty of sweet things in their house. You always dress so glamorously, and back in the day Fanny was renowned for her sense of style – how did it feel to dress as Fanny Cradock? Did you suddenly start to beat your assistants with perfectly ordinary spatulas? I was completely rubbish! I couldn't stop giggling! I am far too silly for this. I tried to channel Fanny's short shrift but would catch a glimpse of myself in a mirror and crease up completely. My photographer Jez Brown and stylist Sarah Dunn were no help either as this was the most bizarre thing we had ever done as a team! Jez is used to photographing pin-up girls and Sarah more often makes me up to pass as one, rather than a middle-aged woman. Plus, it didn't help that Sarah's German Shepherd, Suki, kept barking because she didn't like the look of me! Fanny loved cakes that were brightly coloured and looked over-the-top in the impressive stakes – there were always neighbours that she never really liked very much to impress – what makes a standout cake design for you? Fanny's golden rule was blue icing for cakes, green

for potatoes – what are your signature colours? I completely agree with Fanny that a cake should be impressive and I love a brightly coloured cake. Some of the ingredients and equipment that we have in the kitchen now would make her green with envy – as green as her potatoes! I'm not sure if I have a signature colour – so much of what I do is bespoke and created for an occasion. I get through a lot of white sugarpaste! Funnily enough, I do use a great deal of blue! I use an airbrush from Squires Kitchen to create ombre effects on sugarpaste and their colours are so interesting and vibrant that the only limit we have is our imagination now. Also, because food colouring pastes are more intense and less chemical tasting, we can create rainbow coloured sponge cakes. Fanny would have loved a rainbow cake! We are seeing a lot of festivals, TV shows and so on bringing retro back – which are your favourites and how do people relate to the retro themes? My favourite festival each year is the Twinwood Festival in Bedfordshire – it was part of the reason we moved here from London! It's three days of vintage shopping and music held on the air base from where Glenn Miller took his last flight. I've even been known to get involved in a Cockney Singalong in The Nag's Head pub on site... I have been lucky enough to demonstrate for Kenwood in their kitchen theatre at The Goodwood Revival over the last two years

and can honestly say I've never felt more at home in my life. I love working in the retro kitchen set with some of Kenwood's heritage products on display. Fanny would've loved to have access to the kitchen technology that we have now! Fanny never wore an apron when she did demos and never had a spot on her ballgowns afterwards. Is this a realistic ambition? I always end up with corn flour on my boobs. Every time. It's just the way I am built! I've learned never to wear black for demonstrations for this reason. I've had chocolate buttercream all over me and have done the stand-mixer-icing-sugar cloud too, but that's all part of the fun of live cookery! When I am in my own kitchen and baking for orders I am fully aproned up. You can always tell if I am getting cocky if you see me demonstrating in a white dress... So, if you were to style a cake à la Fanny how would it look? I would want to create a cake that was glamorous and over the top. It would be adorned with pearls and diamonds and folds of taffeta in sugarpaste. It would be entirely fabulous and a little out of place in a modern setting, like Fanny. The icing would be blue. Credits: Word: Kevin Geddes Photographer: Jez Brown Photography Hair & Make-Up: Sarah’s Doo-Wop Dos Model: Charlotte White

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Lemon Drizzle Cake with Italian Meringue

Cooked up by Charlotte White of Restoration Cake


or me, this is a taste of sunshine at any time of the year. Whether you enjoy a slice al fresco with a cool glass of something bubbly or wrapped up indoors with a cup of tea, this is a heavenly bake. It’s also a classic; there is something timeless about Lemon Drizzle Cake and my version is a modern take on this classic. My recipe will make a BIG cake – this makes a lot of mix and very deep layers of cake. You will not complain, just make sure that your tins are at least 2 inches deep. This cake works brilliantly filled simply with classic vanilla buttercream (add a couple of tablespoons of lemon curd to make it lemony) or covered with elaborate Italian Meringue. For the cake: 300g unsalted butter 400g caster sugar

Zest and juice of 3 lemons 8 large free range eggs 300g self-raising flour 250g ground almonds 2tsp baking powder 8tbsp lemon curd For the lemon syrup: juice of 4 lemons 120g caster sugar 150°C oven pre-heated 1. Cream the butter and the sugar until almost white. This is best done in a freestanding mixer, to avoid a very tired arm! Combine your dry ingredients in a separate bowl and set aside while the butter creams. 2. Beat the eggs in a jug and add the lemon zest and juice to this. Gradually incorporate this mixture into the butter and sugar, mixing all the time and adding a teaspoon of your dry ingredients if the mix begins to curdle. 3. Gently add the dry ingredients to your wet ingredi-

ents until just combined. Mix through the lemon curd until fully incorporated. 4. Divide the mixture between two lined 8” sandwich tins and bake for approximately 45 minutes. The cakes are done when a skewer comes out clean. 5. Heat the lemon juice and sugar in a saucepan over a low heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has completely dissolved and the syrup is perfectly translucent. 6. As soon as you remove the cakes from the oven, poke them right down to the bottom of the tin in several places with a skewer. Really go for it and pour all of the syrup over the top of the cakes but leave each pouring of syrup to soak in before you add more rather than allowing a puddle to collect on top. Leave the cakes to cool in their tins for 10 minutes

before turning out on a wire rack to cool completely. 7. Sandwich your cake layers together with classic vanilla buttercream, a cheeky added tablespoon or two of lemon curd will make it a lemony buttercream. Leave it there, cover with more buttercream, or go all out glamour and cover with Italian Meringue and a scattering of flaked almonds for the ultimate finish! Head on over to for the full recipe and method to make the Italian Meringue. I promise that it is not rocket science BUT you will need to invest in a sugar thermometer and have nerves of steel. You will also find my recipe for a Classic Vanilla Buttercream there but the ingredients and method are a simple sentence; beat air into an equal weight of unsalted butter and icing sugar with a little good quality vanilla. | 71

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Vintage Tastes

Modern Flavours

Kitty Von Tastique looks at two restaurants proving that everything old is new again.


t seems as though these days we are forever seeking the elusive 'next big thing' in food and somehow forgetting to reflect on the past in our dining. I'm always relieved when I hear of someone who is willing to nod to this legacy. Someone who will embrace both the old and the new, who will invent a new creation using the inspiration of what has gone before. I was indeed blessed with this experience when I recently visited Palette Dining, a new restaurant helmed by owner and chef, Petrina Kerr and sommelier Matt Hardy. For someone of Kerr's impeccable pedigree (she has catered at Buckingham Palace and for Elton John) you would expect a certain degree of distance to be maintained between herself and her clientele but in fact, nothing could be further from the truth. She is warm, open, and driven, with a passion to keep 'paying it forward'. After inheriting her grandmother's house and garden three years ago, Kerr decided to make the 'green-change' and move to the mountains. Kerr now uses her grandmother's legacy of love, to bring special flavours and seasonality to her dishes. On the night we dined this included borage flowers, kale leaves, herbs and rhubarb, which all came from the garden that her grandmother established so many years ago. “I've never been a green thumb until now, but now I put something in the ground and I'm like, 'Oh my gosh it grew!' It's all that care and attention that she (Kerr’s grand-


ma) put into the soil. She always had a market garden wherever she lived and she supported her seven kids,” says Kerr. Every mouthful feels familiar, yet fresh, Kerr drawing on 'old-fashioned' favourites like fennel and rhubarb to pay tribute to the past and then flipping them on their heads through playful preparation, presentation and well-balanced flavours. She hopes to establish a rooftop garden and hive (we were lucky to take a peek at its beginnings), so her employees can appreciate the growing process, and she harvests many of her ingredients and accompanying wine list from the surrounding areas. She even recently took her staff on a local truffle expedition. Her grand plan is to bring people to the area for a truly, regional 'foodie' experience. The restaurant itself is steeped in history. Located in the iconic Niagara building in Katoomba, built in 1905, the building has been home to a drapery, icecream parlour and various eating establishments in its lifetime. The building itself is well known for its Art Deco style facade, installed in 1922, which is now a local landmark. The inside however, has been renewed to include an upstairs gallery space to support local artists and has the perfect ambience for a cosy rendezvous by the giant windows overlooking the street below. Downstairs the original shop front windows remain and there are traces of the original stained glass windows, monogram 'N' for

Niagara and outside that iconic neon 'Niagara' sign has been refreshed to glow-on for many years to come. During our visit to the mountains we were also lucky enough to find another local restaurateur reclaiming the ancient bones of an iconic space. Vesta restaurant in Blackheath has built its flavours around a 120-year-old Scotch oven, fired with ironbark sourced from regional Mudgee. David Harris, Sham Ward and Terry Tan created the restaurant in 2013. Between them they have worked at some of Sydney's most stylish foodie destinations. That experience has now inspired their 'slow food' creations at Vesta. The restaurant itself was originally a pub, then a bakery, another world famous restaurant, Vulcans, and now Vesta. The original bakery used the Scotch oven to bake white sourdough bread and then delivered it via horse and cart! On Sundays the bakery would be open to the local community to cook their roasts and veggies in the radiant heat of the oven. For many years the oven was walled up and no one knew it existed until 1993 when the previous restaurant owners discovered it behind a false wall. Today it is back and in use, in all of its 220-degree glory. The current owners make use of its unique cooking style to create rustic mountain food, made from fresh local ingredients, including their own mouth-watering bread. The offerings at Vesta still

maintain all of their urban stylishness, while also embracing the slow-cooked depth of flavour only achievable by the passing of time. The Scotch oven serving as a metaphor for the phrase 'good things come to those who wait'. Our weekend foodie adventures in the Blue Mountains were the perfect example of two amazing restaurants paying tribute to the past by being excellent in the present. Both embracing the legacy they have been graciously given and letting that shine, through their world-class offerings. I would not be surprised to see the Blue Mountains soon become a solid foodie destination, and when that happens these two fabulous spots should be given top place on the map! Palette Dining are located at: The Niagara Building 92 Bathurst Rd, Katoomba, NSW / T: 02 4782 9530 Vesta can be found at: 33 Govetts Leap Road, Blackheath, NSW. Phone: 02 4787 6899 Artwork in Palette Dining from the ‘Unpopular Penguins’ exhibition by Ben Tankard. The writer dined as a guest at both Palette Dining and Vesta. | 73

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Catherine beck


ontinuing our journey into the world of classic cocktails, this month I am looking at vodka. Like its counterpart gin, vodka is a staple spirit in the cocktail cabinet. Originating in Russia, vodka has slowly risen in popularity in the UK, with it recently replacing whiskey as our favourite spirit. Vodka appears in many vintage and traditional cocktails. As well as being mixed with tonic or cola, it goes well with a wide range of other mixers. These are some of my favourites. 1. Moscow Mule You will need: 3 ice cubes 2 parts vodka Ginger beer 1 slice of lemon 2 slices of cucumber 1. Put your ice cubes into an old fashioned glass or copper cup. 2. Pour in your vodka and top up with ginger beer. 3. Add the lemon and cucumber to garnish. 2. Vodka Salty Dog You will need: 3 ice cubes The juice of a fresh grapefruit 1 part vodka A small pinch of salt 1. Place the ice cubes into a high ball glass 2. Squeeze the grapefruit and pour over the juice and vodka 3. Add the salt and stir well. 3. Vodka Rickey You will need:

has a passion for the past, which began as a child helping in her Grandparents’ antique shop. she collects vintage recipe books and kitchenalia and loves to recreate vintage recipes. she writes about all things vintage on her blog Vintage Frills.

4 ice cubes 1 teaspoon of sugar Juice of a fresh lime 2 parts vodka Soda water Lime wedges Fresh mint 1 cocktail cherry 1. Put the ice cubes into a glass. 2. Pour in the sugar, lime juice and vodka. 3. Top with soda water. 4. Garnish with the lime wedges, mint and cherry and stir. 4. Screwdriver You will need: 3 ice cubes 1 part vodka Juice of a fresh orange Angostura Bitters (optional) 1. Put the ice cubes into a highball glass. 2. Pour over the vodka and juice. 3. Add the Bitters if desired. 4. Stir before serving. 5. Vodka Collins You will need: 5 ice cubes 1 teaspoon of sugar Juice of 1 lemon 3 parts vodka Soda water 1 slice of lemon Mint 1. Put the ice cubes into a cocktail shaker. 2. Pour the sugar, juice and vodka into the shaker. 3. Shake until well mixed. 4. Pour into a Collins glass and top with soda water. 5. Garnish with lemon and mint. | 75

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Tea and Cake... at penny black

Vintage Life caught up with Sophie Bye, owner of the Penny Black tearoom in Lyme Regis. How did the opportunity come about to run Penny Black in Lyme Regis? When I was 15 and looking for work experience, Penny Black took me on as a waitress. I was offered a job at the end of the week and haven’t left since! I very nearly went to University but changed my mind at the last minute. Feeling really happy where I was, I decided it wasn’t for me. My fiancé Mahler worked at River Cottage HQ and has always had a passion for cooking, so when the opportunity came up to run Penny Black it couldn’t have been better – we were the perfect team. Has running the tearoom been challenging? Yes, very challenging! At the moment we are learning as we go along. The most challenging part so far has been taking on this massive responsibility and doing everything we can to make it successful. Fortunately, I’ve worked here for years so I’m used to the routine and the lovely locals, which makes it a lot easier! Furthermore, the previous owners of Penny Black did such a fantastic job and have built up a great reputation.

How would you describe the tearoom and its décor? It’s a very individual 1950s pastel tearoom. I think what makes it individual is how the décor has been affected by where the café is situated. Living by the seaside, I incorporated blue and white beach-hut stripes on the counter. This gives it an ice cream parlour look too, which reflects Lyme Regis. Another factor that made my tearoom different to others is being inside the Post Office, the old sorting room. I think emphasizing on this gives it character, so I bought wallpaper covered in stamps with 50s legends inside them to tie in with my vintage theme. Penny Black’s logo consists of the Penny Black stamp with Marilyn Monroe’s head replacing Queen Victoria’s. What does Penny Black's menu offer? Penny Black offers a wide range of freshly ground coffees, teas, ice cream floats and extra thick milkshakes (peanut butter milkshake is a favourite!). I make the scones using granny’s recipe and the gluten free rocky road too. Besides the cakes there are Mahler’s homemade light lunches and specials. Does the tea room run events, and can it be hired?

It’s too early to tell at the moment but we have lots of ideas. We hope to look into this further in the future and perhaps host themed vintage meet-ups in the café, celebrating particular eras with their corresponding costumes, music and food. What are your upcoming plans for the tearoom? I’d love to create a ‘Fifties Favourites’ menu, bringing back desserts such as rice pudding or fruit cocktail to give people a taste of the traditional. Maybe mini trifles in jam jars or apple crumble cookies? My plans were to transform a regular eating bar into an American Diner bar with a limited budget. I managed to find a miniature version of Elvis Presley’s pink Cadillac to mount on the wall and thought it was perfect for the Diner look. I have just placed the classic chrome diner stools for the finishing touch. Where can readers find out more? We are on Facebook as Penny Black or you can follow us on Instagram with #pennyblackcafe. View our latest photos or contact me to book a table. If you’re coming through Lyme Regis, Dorset, pop in for a cuppa!

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I n this section



intro pagesTHIS ONE.indd 7

28/09/2016 11:26


This month in history

Carrie-Ann Dring A vintage style blogger at Something Definitely Happened, and puts her passion for vintage down to her love of history, fashion and stories. And shopping – she likes that too.

January So here we are, in 2017. Happy New Year, one and all! We’ve trawled the archives to find some of the key events from Januarys past, so settle down on the sofa (possibly with the heating on) and enjoy!

1920s • In the US, Prohibition came into force on 16 January 1920. The manufacture, sale or transportation of alcohol was banned, in a move that greatly benefitted organised crime and created one of the enduring images of 1920s America.

1940s Ma• On 30 January 1948, Mohandas Karamchad Gandhi – known as Indian the of leader spiritual and political the – lifetime his hatma during independence movement, was assassinated by Nathuram Godse in New Delhi. • The first ever Emmy Awards took place in Los Angeles on 25 January 1949, when the Academy of Television Arts & Sciences held its first annual awards ceremony at the Hollywood Athletic Club. 1950s • Marilyn Monroe married baseball player Joe DiMaggio on 14 January 1954. They divorced just months later in October 1954, although they maintained a friendship that saw him plan her funeral when she died in 1962.

shutterstock/ Who is Danny

1930s the • Buzz Aldrin, the pilot of NASA’s Apollo 11 mission and 20 on born was moon, the on walk second man to ever Januar y 1930.

1960s 24 • Former British Prime Minister, Winston Churchill, died aged 90 on biggest the was January 30 on later days six January 1965. His funeral state funeral the world had seen at that point. 1970s • The first two Concorde jets flew on 21 January 1976, taking off simultaneously from London Heathrow and Paris Orly airports, cutting air travel time dramatically and topping 1,350 miles an hour at cruising speed (well over the sound barrier!). Are there any to add, readers? Join the conversation on our Facebook page – search ‘Vintage Life

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Everette Collection/ shutterstock

shutterstock/ Who is Danny


he title of this month’s article comes from the 1954 hit by Patti Page and tells the story of a girl who loves music but can’t dance. The vintage scene is a conundrum at times since it appeals to different people for different reasons and I am generalising when I say this, but often, those who are passionate about re-enactment do not dance. Period music is merely a soundtrack to their hobby. Personally I find this surprising as to really capture the spirit of a bygone age you simply have to dance! Dancing brings alive the rituals of that period complete with the complex social rules of the time. Tea dances are a case in point; few these days give them a second thought and until recently, I was the same. However being asked to DJ on two afternoons at the 30s inspired Riviera Swing made me stop and think. After all, tea dances were such a British institution and an enduring part of our culture. The concept of a tea dance stems from the English love of afternoon tea, traditionally served between 4 and 6pm. It was often served with a light meal consisting of sandwiches and small cakes and from the 1840s, musical accompaniment was provided by a small band or orchestra. These ensembles were frequently called Palm Court Orchestras and these continued to feature long after the introduction of the phonograph in the 1920s. There are still tea dances held at grand institutions such as The Savoy and Ritz Hotels in London that feature live music but nowadays these are high end events. The essence of the tea dance was that it was less formal than a ball and therefore cheaper to stage. Tea dances swept the length and breadth of the UK, becoming especially popular in both Garrison Towns and Naval establishments. A ship’s captain and his officers would divide the cost of hosting such a party amongst themselves and the same was true of regimental officers ashore. It was permissible to spread a stiffened canvas covering over the carpet in your drawing room as a dance floor, rather than rolling back the carpet and waxing the floor as was required for a ball. The need

culture for a formal meal, spread over many courses accompanied by expensive wines was negated by providing light snacks and small cakes, served in a buffet style on tables situated at one end of the room. In polite society a garden party often preceded the tea dance and by the late 1880s tea dances were increasingly the preserve of the suburbs. So it would’ve remained but for the rise in workers’ rights that heralded in the 20th century. As social change swept the nation and workers found they had both increased wealth and leisure time, entertainment was needed. The coast was the holiday destination of choice and places such as Torquay, Margate and Southend to name but three, developed into holiday towns and as such, hotels there began to lay on tea dances too. It was now, truly a nationwide pastime. Apart from tea and sandwiches, what could you expect at a tea dance? Well, obviously you’d expect tea and coffee but it was also permissible to provide a champagne-cup and a claret-cup in addition to the provision of fruit, ices, sandwiches and cakes outlined above. You could also expect to dance to popular tunes of the day, be they waltzes, tangos, rumbas or foxtrots. This continued until the cultural revolution of the 60s ended partnered dancing. The young no longer needed to dance in order to learn about the opposite sex, the age of free love was upon them and its arrival swept away the stuffy formality of the ballroom. Music was no longer characterised by the dance tempo it best suited and the nearest couples got to sharing a dance was to peer over a pile of handbags at one another. Fortunately all was not lost and in tiny corners of the realm, ballroom dancing persisted, licked its wounds and is making a comeback. Naturally along with this resurgence comes the tea dance. Sadly the Palm Court Orchestras of old haven’t begun to appear in great numbers and now, most dances are covered by DJs. This is precisely why the unwary DJ can be caught out. DJing at a tea dance is a unique experience with several pit falls. Firstly you are DJing ballroom music and this means

i can’t tell a waltz

from a foxtrot Words Jim williams

you have to pay very close attention to the tempo. Less formal dances such as the lindy or jive are flexible and dancers can speed up or slow down according to what track is playing. Whilst the same is also true of ballroom to an extent, the tempo has strict tolerances. Take for instance the waltz. What can go wrong with that I hear you ask? After all, a waltz is a waltz is a waltz… right? Wrong! Let me explain why. The waltz is a sequence dance, so called because the dancers perform a sequence of moves that are repeated throughout the dance; it takes 16 bars of music to complete one waltz sequence. But to confuse matters the waltz can be broken up into three styles, old time, which has a tempo of 40-44 BPM (bars per minute), modern slow waltz, which has a tempo of 29-31 BPM and Viennese waltz with a tempo of 56-64 BPM. Taking the slow modern waltz as an example, at 31BPM and with a duration of 2.5 minutes, it will take 31 seconds for the dancers to complete one sequence and during the entire dance they will complete a total of five sequences. You simply have to know this stuff if you want to DJ at a tea dance. On top of that you are expected to call each dance before you start the track and woe betide you if you get it wrong. I found this

out the hard way during my first afternoon. I announced that the last dance would be a slow waltz but, the cueing system on the deck was somewhat cumbersome and I realised with a sense of panic that I hadn’t left myself long enough to scroll through the CD. So as the last notes died away, I pressed play. My beautiful waltz morphed into an equally beautiful slow foxtrot – I was mortified. The dancers took to the floor and I began to relax. My faux pas had gone unnoticed and I seemed to have escaped with honour… Until the first couple danced passed me and as they turned gracefully she stage whispered through a fixed smile, “This isn’t a waltz, it’s a foxtrot…”

Jim Williams Host of Swing Time on in London and Racketeer Radio in Seattle. His passion is swing, jazz, blues, R&B, shuffle & jump blues. All backed up by the history of each genre and the artists involved. | 79

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Carradine’s Cockney Singalong Chris has accumulated 30 years of music industry experience and can be found stage-managing the incredible performers at The War & Peace Revival, The Military World Show, and most recently, the Liberty Stage at Twinwood Festival. Over the coming months Chris will bring you the best music in the current UK vintage scene.

tom carradine As I have covered two female acts in my last two articles, I wanted to introduce you to a male performer on the vintage scene. I thought of Tom Carradine straight away as the epitome of dapper vintage style and all round lovely gent.


first met Tom at Twinwood in 2013. My wife Charlotte and I stumbled into The Nags Head pub after watching the evening cabaret featuring Dusty Limits, accompanied by Tom on piano. The pub was very quiet as we all sat down for a few drinks to relax and chat after the show. Tom and Dusty spied an old piano and with some encouragement the boys and Charlotte (in full WAAF WW2 uniform) started singing. By the end of the evening a crowded pub full of people were all singing along. Since that night, Carradine’s Cockney Sing-a-long has become a popular feature of events such as the Festival of Vintage and Twinwood to name but a few. If you are ever at an event and spy Tom anywhere near a piano, get ready to sing at the top of your voice – it’s so much fun and you will leave with a smile on your face. To those not familiar with you, how would you describe yourself? As an art deco loving, moustachioed gent living a retrospective life, with a fascination for the popular songs from the first half of the 20th century, single handedly trying to keep them alive.

For any gentlemen who want to dress vintage and get into the scene, can you give some pointers on where to begin? There are some great online vintage and reproduction companies out there, but make sure you know your measurements. eBay is great for finding bargains and having a good alterations tailor is important but be aware what can be tweaked. Trousers can easily be altered but the shoulders of a jacket can’t. Find the best fit you can to start with. Also, don’t be a slave to the scene. Wear what you want and what you are most comfortable in. It took me until I was 30 to really find my ‘style’ and feel confident about my appearance. My day-to-day wear is usually 1940s and performance wear more Victorian / Edwardian but I love mixing and matching styles and pieces from across eras, whether vintage or reproduction, to create a style which is right for me. We’re all unique. Enjoy experimenting to find what works for you. What is your performing background and what inspired you? Although not a “proper” Cockney (I was born and

Images by tom wilton, ray smith

chris white

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raised in coventry) i’ve been singing these songs for years and leading sing-a-longs ever since i could play the piano. i cut my performing teeth in the scout Gang shows in coventry but always thought that music and performing would just be a hobby. After graduating from imperial college with a degree in Biochemistry in 2004, i fell in to playing for rehearsals and auditions for Fringe shows in London. This then led to me working as a keyboard player and musical director on uk tours of musicals such as Joseph, Cabaret, Scrooge and Priscilla Queen of the Desert. A complete career change! i did this for about eight years until my wife and i had our son, Andrew, and i decided i wanted to focus on work closer to home rather than being on the road for six months at a time. During this time i’d also started playing for champagne charlie and the Bubbly Boys and discovering the vintage music scene, accompanying Dusty Limits at the Twinwood Festival in 2013. After the show we ended up in the nag’s Head pub there and i started playing the battered old piano. People joined in singing and we had a great time. The next night when we got to the nag’s Head we found people had been waiting for me to come in for the sing-a-long. the rest, as they say, is history. i returned the next year and the atmosphere at the sing-a-long made me wonder if i could put together a sing-a-long act to take elsewhere. i was booked for a session in the bar at wilton’s music Hall in London in October 2014 and since then have gone from strength to strength, now playing to sell out crowds in the main auditorium at Wilton’s, a weekly residency in London and at vintage events up and down the country. What aspects of the vintage scene influence you the most? Probably the wealth of dapper gents on instagram. they’re always style inspiration for me, particularly @dandywellington, @haethaenstat and @bunnysvintagewardrobe. hoW Would you describe your live performances? it’s a good old-fashioned knees-up. Whether i’m playing to 50 people in a pub or 300 at one of my larger shows at Wilton’s Music Hall, my audiences always leave on a high. My performances bring back so many memories for people: of family parties or parents and grandparents singing them songs as children. it’s all about that warm feeling of nostalgia that comes from singing these songs. i hope that the audiences leave having been uplifted by the music and that by singing these songs we’re keeping them alive and passing them on to a younger generation.

the last time i spoke to you, you Were going to record an album. has that happened, and if so, can you tell vl readers about it? My debut album Live at the Bull & Gate was recorded in September 2015 and released in February 2016. it features an hour of my most popular sing-a-long medleys, recorded with a live audience, and really captures the atmosphere of one of my knees-ups. it’s available from my website, at my gigs and can be downloaded from iTunes and all major digital outlets. is there a song you enJoy playing the most and Why? this is a tough choice, as i love so many of these old time songs. if i had to choose, it would probably be The Beer Barrel Polka (aka Roll Out The Barrel), which normally forms the end of the first set. it’s a great sing-a-long classic and always has people up on their feet dancing. What are your musical icons / influences? Mrs Mills and her honky tonk piano party albums of the 1970s heavily influence my piano playing style. they really capture a special, old time, party atmosphere that i try to recreate at my gigs. What has been the most memorable venue / performance so far? Probably my album launch at Wilton’s Music Hall in February 2016. it’s such a special venue and you really do feel the presence of all of the stars of the Victorian Music Hall who’ve performed on that stage. it’s great that i always play to sell out crowds there and raise the roof in exactly the same way that the Victorians would have done at the turn of the 20th century. do you have any information regarding any upcoming shoWs THAT YOU’D LIKE TO SHARE AND WHAT are your plans for 2017? i play every Thursday at mr Fogg’s Tavern, 58 St martin’s Lane, London (8.30-10.30pm) and regular dates at cahoots, off carnaby street. i’ll be back at twinwood this year and at Wilton’s Music Hall in July, and there will be more festival appearances announced soon. Where can readers find out more about you? All of my gig dates are on my website (www. or readers can follow me on Facebook (facebook. com/cockneysingalong), twitter and instagram (@tomcarradine). | 100

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Treats at

tootsie towers

Tootsie Towers was buzzing with excitement the morning we awoke to find Royal invitations to Clarence House from Prince Charles! As proud supporters of the Walk the Walk breast cancer charity, we had been invited to celebrate their 20 year anniversary with the Moonwalk team and other keen supporters such as Jennifer Saunders and Harriet Thorpe.


n the day of the celebration we were up at the crack of dawn in our pin curls, being preened and styled by our amazing vintage glam squad: stylist Joanna Femi Ola and hairstylist Charlie Wilkinson. Jo had picked out beautiful frocks from Stewart Parvin, Little Black Dress and Peggy Hartanto, which made us feel elegant and confident heading to Clarence House. The day also coincided with our 8th birthday of being together so we felt it was a wonderful and apt way to celebrate our time together. We think the only people who were more excited than us about our Royal invites were our Tootsie Mums! We always love seeing Nina, the founder of the charity, and her team. Such incredible people, whose passion and kindness shine out of them and make you feel better about the world. Walk the Walk has raised £113 million over their 20 years which is a staggering amount from them starting out in 1996 as 13 women walking in bras in The New York Marathon to raise awareness. Cancer touches so many peoples’ lives, including many of our own, and we are so passionate in supporting those affected by it and those who are determined to fight it!

After toasting with some champagne and nibbling on what was the most delicious salmon risotto we have ever tasted, we were introduced to Prince Charles. He was incredibly jovial and chatty, and even requested we send a CD for him and Camilla to listen to! Walk the Walk had a huge birthday cake shaped as a bra; Prince Charles remarked that it was the first time he had had to cut into a bra(!) and as he did we burst into an acappella version of our song ‘Walk the Walk’ which we wrote to raise money for the charity. It was a truly exhilarating and wonderful day, with a lot of ‘who’d have thought it, when we met all those years ago…’ from us, and it really set us up for the throng of festive gigs that followed. For more information about Walk the Walk please visit Our Walk the Walk single is available to download on iTunes and Amazon. Come and roll with us on social media @thetootsies

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vintage wedding

Styling Tips by Angel Adoree

The key to planning a successful wedding is to think of a theme that brings all of your elements together. Your wedding day should reflect you, be it as imaginative or as simple as you like. Pinterest is a fantastic source of inspiration and a brilliant planning tool. Don’t forget to make your boards ‘secret’ if you don’t want to reveal too much about your big day plans! Flowers Central to any wedding is of course, the flowers. For a real vintage look, use dried flowers from an online supplier or dry your own by hanging them upside down or leaving fresh flowers like hydrangeas in water and direct sunlight; overtime they will dry naturally and look spectacular. For a natural and inexpensive option, go foraging! Invest in a pair of secateurs and green gardening tape and do some research on creating garlands, simple bouquets and buttonholes with foliage and wild flowers that you’ve collected yourself.

Balloons Giant balloons are brilliant for filling an empty space and look eye-catching in wedding photos. Cover the ceiling above your wedding breakfast or dancefloor, or place in key positions like the dessert or cheese table. For the ceremony, tie balloons to the end of pews or chairs to create a whimsical aisle. Using balloons for your wedding décor doesn’t have to be expensive and you can order a huge variety of shapes and sizes online. | 83

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Food and drink A great excuse to get out or start collecting vintage crockery and glassware! Ice tea cocktails are deliciously refreshing and economical for large parties. If you’re having a relaxed, outdoorsy wedding then let the food reflect this with a BBQ or summer garden party theme. Gone are the days of a bog standard, 3-course sit down wedding breakfast. Do what reflects you! If you’re so inclined to organise the food yourself, then interactive dining with sharing platters, bread and cheese are an easy and cost-effective way to feed guests. This also breaks the ice for guests who don’t know each other that well; food and drink are great conversation starters! Ceremony Using a celebrant means you can have your wedding absolutely anywhere; a fantastic logistical solution if you’re getting married abroad. Even in the UK, a celebrant gives you freedom with your wedding ceremony, using the words, stories and sentiments that reflect you as a couple. While they cannot legally marry you, this part is easy to do at the registry office a few days before, or even on the morning of your wedding. A nice, personal touch would be to ask a friend or family member to carry out the formalities. Music Whether you’re hiring a DJ, band or sorting the music yourself, a good playlist is a must. Sending a request for a song of their choice with the invitations is a great way of getting guests involved before the big day. Just sit back and watch the reactions when their song comes on! Invitations The fantastic thing about wedding websites is that you don’t have to send bundles of info about the day through the post. This means that ‘save the dates’ or invitations are a chance to be creative and send a thoughtful keepsake that provides a hint of your wedding theme. Think printed tea towels, postcards or wood – either shop online or get crafty by doing it yourself. Cake There are so many options that can replace the traditional 3-tier cake. For those without a sweet tooth, there’s pork pie or cheese varieties. And, if you’re looking for a way to involve others, create a dessert table and ask a few guests to bring a homemade cake or pudding. Everyone will love trying out the different choices. Wedding favours If you fancy getting crafty, then have a go at creating personalised linen. Hit the second hand shops, car boots and go out thrifting, then sew the name of your guest onto vintage linen for a memorable keepsake of your wedding day. Angel is hosting elegant vintage weddings at the fairy tale Chateau-de-la-Motte Husson in the Pays de la Loire, as seen on Channel 4’s hit series Escape to the Chateau. Visit

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carmen miranda

Silver screen stars



aria do Carmo Miranda da Cunha, known to her family as Carmen, was born in Portugal in 1909. When she was just a year old the family moved to Brazil in hope of a better life. In the choir at her convent school Carmen discovered a love of singing and performing. However, the financial constraints on the family meant that Carmen had to leave school at the age of 14 and find work. Her first job was doing window displays and selling ties in a gentlemen’s haberdashery. Eventually her parents opened a boarding house and she left the haberdashers to work at home. Carmen later recalled that at this point in her life she had three conflicting ambitions: to be a nun, to be a wife and mother, and to be a performer. Whilst helping with the family business, Carmen also learnt from her seamstress sister, Olinda, how to make hats. At 15 she got a job as an apprentice milliner. Carmen was determined to make her way in the film industry and in 1926 she started to do the rounds of film and radio studios. Her father disapproved of her career choice and to prevent him from finding out that she was due to perform in a radio recital she adopted the alias “Carmen Miranda,” which became her stage name from that time onwards, although she always considered “Carmen Miranda” as a distinct stage personality apart from her real self, Maria do Carmo. In 1930 Carmen was signed to RCA Victor who promoted her as the company’s number one singing star. The company decided to hide her Portuguese origins and market her

You don’t even need to see the brightly coloured outfits, the bangles or the earrings; all it takes is a headdress piled with fruit and people instantly recognise the iconic Carmen Miranda look, but was there more to Carmen Miranda than “The Lady with the Tutti-Frutti Hat”? as a Brazilian samba singer; Carmen was happy to play along and was an instant hit with the public – her third record Tai sold 35,000 copies, making it the biggest selling record of the year. By 1935 Carmen was the highest paid singer in Brazil. Alongside her musical career Carmen also began to appear in films, starting in 1932 with O Carnaval Cantado No Rio (Carnival Songs in Rio). In 1938 she adopted the Bahian style of dress for a film called Banana da Terra including a silk turban, a starched skirt and golden earrings, but she altered the traditional style with some additions of her own – the bare midriff, strings of beads, bright colours and of course, the baskets of fruit atop the turban; all of which was ridiculed by many Brazilians who considered this more flamboyant interpretation of the Baiana to be cheap and tacky. In May 1939 Carmen left Brazil and travelled to the USA for the next stage in her career, appearing in a show called The Streets of Paris which was a hit with both the critics and with audiences. She started to learn English and was soon appearing in English language films such as Down Argentine Way alongside a new American star called Betty Grable. By 1945 Carmen was the highest paid female movie star in the United States, but her success came at a price. Back home in Brazil she was criticised for playing up to the stereotype of the ‘Latina Bimbo’ and for the way in which she was used to represent a generalised ‘Latin America’ that did not distinguish between Argentina, Cuba, Brazil and even Portugal, taking and ex-

ploiting elements of each culture to create a mish-mash of ‘exotic’ Latin Americanism. Her 1940 film Down Argentine Way was criticised for misportraying Argentinian culture and was subsequently banned in Argentina. Her 1941 film Weekend in Havana was likewise criticised for misportraying Cuban culture and pandering to the widespread belief of US film studios that all South American cultures were pretty much indistinguishable from one another. On her return to Brazil in 1940 Carmen was also criticised for becoming ‘Americanised’. At a charity concert she was greeted by silence when she addressed the audience in English, and was booed when she sang the English language song The South American Way. Carmen was deeply upset by the incident and by the criticisms aimed at her and she did not return to Brazil for another 14 years. In 1947 whilst filming Copacabana Carmen met, fell in love with and married David Sebastian, the associate producer on the film. In 1948 at the age of 39, she had a miscarriage. Always a hardworker, after this tragedy Carmen threw herself harder into her work as a way of forgetting. As she entered her 40s Carmen feared that she had nothing new to offer. Instead, her costumes become more outrageous and her performances almost a charicature. By 1953 Carmen was addicted to pills and alcohol and was suffering from depression. She told a friend that she believed that her miscarriage had been a punishment from God for an earlier abortion. She was treated with electro-shock therapy which gave her memory problems thereafter. In

1954 she finally returned for a visit to Brazil and after this her depression and even her dependancies seem to lift somewhat. Her untimely death by heart attack at just 46 stunned her fans across the world and led the Brazilian government to declare a period of national mourning. According to the New York Times her funeral cortege was followed by more than a million mourners and by the time the funeral was over, 182 fans had had to be treated in hospital having been overcome by distress or trampled by fellow fans attempting to see the bier holding their idol. The Latin America portrayed in Carmen Miranda’s films is not a real place, but a tropical fantasyland of eternal sunshine and endless carnival. The Carmen Miranda portrayed on the screen is likewise a fantasy figure, shimmering with colour and ornament, eternally sunny in outlook, always ready to burst into a glorious riot of song and dance. Maria do Carmo was a gentler, more introspective and more complex being.

Katrina Simpson Katrina Simpson is a writer, teacher and bibliophile. She has loved vintage films since the age of five when she saw her first Doris Day musical. | 85

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Goran Bogicevic/shutterstock


Stick your nose in a

good book

Pride and Pudding The history of british puuddings By Rgula Ysewijn Vintage Life contributor Charlotte White introduced us to Regula Ysewijn’s fabulous puddings in the December issue and when this book arrived in the VL offices, we couldn’t keep our hands of it. Regula begins by looking at the origins of the pudding and reveals what would have been eaten by Romans, Vikings and more. The author then goes on to share a variety of recipes that fall into the categories of “boiled and steamed’, ‘baked’, ‘batter’, ‘bread’, ‘jellies, milk puddings and ices’

and ‘master recipes’, which includes key items such as shortcrust pastry. The book has a good mixture of sweet and savoury with recipes such as Haggis and Beef Pudding sitting alongside Jam Roly Poly and Treacle Sponge. The book is beautifully put together and feels like a Victorian publication with its gorgeous illustrations. Colour photographs really give a feel for the puddings and each recipe is thoroughly researched - Regula has delved into the puddings’ backgrounds (going as far back as the 14th century) and features step by step intstructions and detailed ingredients lists. This is a fabulous book.

Audrey – The 50s By David Wills

This stunning book by David Wills charts Hollywood icon Audrey Hepburn’s career throughout the 1950s – perhaps her most successful decade – using over 200 rare and classic images, some of which have been made public for the first time. The mixture of black and white, and colour images show Audrey in her private life, on set, and also on modelling and publicity shoots, and are interspersed with comments and quotes

from the various industry people that she worked with, including Edith Head, Givenchy and Frank Sinatra. Not only does Audrey – The 50s remind the reader of her various films and the many roles that she played, it also allows us to peruse the countless stunning outfits and costumes that Audrey wore during the decade. Audrey – The 50s is the perfect book for any film or vintage fan, or anyone with an interest in the iconic star. The gorgeous tome is easy to flick through and is perfect for dipping in and out of.

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Scarlett luxe Scarlett Luxe, the classic pin-up! Inspired by all things Hollywood Glamour, from the fashion and beauty to the dancing and Hollywood icons.

I Give you my Heart this

Valentine’s day

Valentine’s Day is a celebration of our love for one another. Traditionally, we convey how much someone means to us by showering them with gifts to physically show our love and affection for them. These gifts tend to be conventional and follow the same theme from year to year; roses, chocolates and numerous heart shaped presents. There are beautiful meanings as to why these items are associated with Valentine’s Day…


The Heart As Valentine’s Day fast approaches, it is possible to buy almost any gift in the shape of a heart: a pillow, a candle, a picture frame. It was formerly believed that the heart was the seat of all human emotions and was the centre for all feelings. Therefore, the gifting of a heart signified the selfless act of giving everything to someone you love. How romantic! Roses The giving of flowers on Valentine’s Day comes from the old-fashioned custom of sending floral bouquets to pass on non-verbal messages, such as your unconditional love for your beloved. It was then in the 18th century that each individual flower was given a specific meaning, making it possible to have a whole conversation just through flowers. Roses are often associated with Valentine’s Day because if the letters of ROSE are rearranged, they spell out EROS, who is the Greek God of Love also known as Cupid. Red roses are the most popular rose for Valentine’s day as they represent love, respect and courage. A pale pink rose represents grace, happiness and joy whereas a yellow rose represents friendship, hope and freedom. A bouquet of flowers really can say a thousand things!

Chocolate: Chocolate has been referred to as ‘the food of the gods’ since the time of the Aztec Indians and was often believed to be an aphrodisiac. Chocolate grew to be an item adored by many. In 1861, Richard Cadbury created the first ever heart-shaped box for Valentine’s Day. A clever creation by the Cadbury Brothers, tying together the traditional symbol of love and the desire for chocolate. A new tradition had begun. Chocolates are still a favoured gift on Valentine’s Day as it’s something that you can share and enjoy with your loved one as a treat. I am a romanticist so I adore the month of Valentine’s and being able to show your love for that special person in your life through the giving of something that has thought and meaning behind – it can bring a lot of joy and excitement. It is still important though, to spend quality time with your beloved and to tell them that you love and appreciate them. These acts of love are simply priceless. | 87

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Emma edwards Also known as Miss Bamboo, her alter ego and reproduction vintage clothing label. She has been on the ‘vintage scene’ since 1983 and adores mid century style and Airstream adventures.

Rum Rhapsodies At


The Mai-Kai is one of the oldest and most spectacular tiki bars and restaurants in the world, still serving up its ‘Rum Rhapsodies’ since its origins in the 1950s. Placed as the no 1 tiki bar in the world by Critiki (The guide to tiki and Polynesian pop culture around the world), it is also listed on the USA federal government’s National Register of historic places deemed worthy of preservation.

How did you get into 'tiki' and what is its appeal for you? In my early 20s, I was hitting the thrift stores and was in love with mid-century stuff. In the mid-1980s and early 90s it was plentiful and cheap. I was buying vintage clothes, furniture and records. I was listening to Astrud Gilberto, Bauhaus and Captain Beefheart and had sharkskin suits and super psychedelic clothes. My friends were hardcore punks and very early Goths and we were

(photography credits Jesus Navarro and Keefy Hanson)


n December 2016, the Mai-Kai celebrated its 60th anniversary and in this historic year the launch of a wonderful coffee table book by a true pioneer of the modern tiki movement, Tim 'Swanky' Glazner, Mai-Kai - History and Mystery of the Iconic Tiki Restaurant (Schiffer Publishing Sept 2016.) Focusing on the period 1955 to 1971, Swanky brings to life the history of the Mai-Kai, the secrecy surrounding its rum cocktail recipes and the stories of the celebrities and socialites who frequented the bar along with the beautiful women who worked there. His passion for both tiki and the Mai-Kai really shine through, making the book a fascinating read and it is jam packed with fabulous accompanying pictures. I particularly enjoyed reading about the Mystery Girls and the ritual surrounding the 'Mystery Drink.’ When the drink is ordered, a gong is struck repeatedly as a Polynesian maiden silently delivers the huge, flaming bowl. The Mystery Girl then dances for the customer, placing a lei around their neck, before planting a kiss on their cheek and gliding away. An historic ritual that remains today. Glazner recounts the personal histories of the prestigious mystery girls with many interesting anecdotes including how Bettie Page had been considered for the role but had demanded too much money! I was thrilled that Tim agreed to an interview for Vintage Life:

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also listening to lounge and exotica. Tiki’s heyday was in the mid-century and it just dovetailed in – modern and primitive together. In the late 90s a lot of other people were into these genres too and lounge, rockabilly and tiki all started to gel into their own resurrections. What is so special about the Mai-Kai that you made it the subject of your first book? There were a number of events being held in the early 2000s around the country at old tiki bars. We were all devoted fans and looked at these places like museums while the owners generally looked at us with suspicion but the Mai-Kai embraced us... I started hearing the myths of the Mai-Kai before I got there and afterwards I heard more and more. I didn’t start out to write a book, I was just a tiki nerd who wanted to preserve this history, but as I began to find these old timers, get to know them and hear their stories, I found something that was truly amazing. I really cared and I could feel their spirits tugging on me to share their stories. I had to make a fully-fledged book. Have you experienced the mystery drink and its ritual yourself? Too many times! I have sworn off the Mystery Drink! Let’s just say it is a powerful concoction. Last year I coordinated something very special. I was sitting beside my wife at dinner and they came out and put the napkin in front of me to place the Mystery Bowl. The gong started and The Mystery Girl came over to me. I stood up and walked towards her and she backed away. She handed the bowl to my good friend Crazy Al Evans, dressed in grass skirt and bone chains. He proceeded to perform the Mystery Drink for my wife, standing on the chair and putting his special flare into it. The bowl was really full and he sloshed it all over himself and Stephanie. It was a fantastic and historic moment! I asked my wife how it went and she said “I’m all wet!” and Al said, “Me too!” Tell us more about your Hukilau festival that is held at the Mai-Kai. It’s the second oldest tiki event in the world after Tiki Oasis in San Diego. In 2002 we started at Trader Vic’s in Atlanta and in 2003 moved it to the Mai-Kai in Fort Lauderdale. The magic of the Mai-Kai and warm embrace of the owners and staff have made it the permanent home. The Mai-Kai is the top of many people’s bucket list and The Hukilau is often when people visit it for the first time. Having the place full of people who really love and appreciate it, and dress in vintage aloha wear or vintage suits and dresses, make it a unique time. The Mai-Kai performers know they are going to have perhaps their most appreciative audience of the year. It was a dream come true to visit this bucket list destination myself and my excitement was palpable when I first saw the Tiki Mecca rising up across the highway with its huge insignia, flaming tiki torches and tropical foliage. It was wonderful stepping through those historic doors to be greeted in old fashioned form by the maître d', to experience those time honoured tiki cocktails in the Molokai bar before dinner and a truly amazing Polynesian show. The gardens are a sight to behold, with the lush tropical vegetation, spectacular tiki statues, ornaments and waterfalls. A visit to the Mai-Kai is more than just a night out; it's an escape to a faraway land in times gone by. As Glazner says to 'the land that time forgot.' My only regret is not having encountered the Mystery Drink and its ritual. However, I have a feeling that this isn't the last time myself and Big Bamboo will frequent this Polynesian Paradise and that we will be back to experience more Mai-Kai mystery and history in the future. For more information go to Tim Glazner will be doing a book signing at Viva Las Vegas Rockabilly Weekender in April 2017 The next Hukilau Festival is June 7th-11th 2017 ( | 89

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Words haili Hughes

Let’s Smash 2017!

Embrace your inner goddess: If you’re reading this tied to the sink wearing rubber gloves and cleaning a mountain of roast dinner smeared plates, glamorous is probably the last thing you will be feeling. But really, we all need to take time to love ourselves and embrace our inner goddess. A great way of doing this is booking a vintage style, pin-up makeover. Clare did just that with Cornwall based photographer Lisa Simmons from House of Pinup. She told me about her experience: “I was feeling anxious, excited and

nervous all wrapped into one with the thought how could I ever look like the girls on the web? Am I just going to be rubbish? My overall look was something I could only wish I could achieve every day; I need the girls to come and live with me! I felt on top of the world, like I could conquer anything! It showed me a kind of self-confidence and belief in myself I didn't think existed. I struggled secretly with confidence and my looks for so long and they changed that about me. There was no heavy editing making me a size 6, but enhancing my own natural beauty! When I got sent a sneaky peek I actually thought wow, I do actually look beautiful.” Buy British and support small designers: In today’s international business climate, where many companies are going bust or struggling to stay afloat, why not avoid the rich high street designers and companies and try to buy British and support our amazing range of independent brands. We are such a talented bunch in the vintage world and there is a plethora of choices for almost every item of clothes, accessories or shoes you could ever want.

One such independent brand is House of Satin – a vintage style lingerie designer who produce some beautiful underwear in really authentic vintage styles. The business was set up following World War II, when a young formidable lady started up her own bridal wear business and opened a shop in the historical Cathedral Quarter of Derby. After all the tailoring and stitching, it seemed so sad to waste the left over pieces of luxury fabrics from the gowns, so she came up with an idea to put them to good use. Being quite a thrifty young lady, she created brassieres and garter belts. Her underpinnings went down a storm and it was the beginning of the lingerie company that still exists today. Over the years, the company has made lingerie for many of the brands we know and love today. But eventually, when British manufacturing dwindled, many of the factories in the area were closing down. So, the workers got their heads together and devised a plan to breathe life back into the vintage lingerie patterns that were still held in storage. They began to create authentic retro bras and suspender belts and due to the massive revival of vintage fashion at the time, this

went down a storm and the brand House of Satin was born. Who wouldn’t want to be part of this rich history? Every independent business has got an amazing story to tell. Plus remember, when you buy from an independent business, you are paying for a child’s music lesson, a son’s football boots and keeping the British creative industry alive. Definitely food for thought. Make others happy: The festive period is a time for receiving but it is also a time for giving. In fact, according to a survey by The Charity Commission, the average UK Christmas donation per person is £39. ( Why not extend this good will to make it an all year event? With my form at school, we are participating in the ‘Random Act of Kindness’ challenge, whereby you do something to help somebody else every day. This could include opening the door for somebody or offering to carry something for them, or even smiling at somebody and telling them they look nice. There is nothing quite as satisfying as making somebody else smile; you can’t have a worthier New Year’s Resolution than that.

Images of Clare by House of Pinup


ike snow, eggnog and brightly coloured gifts, New Year’s resolutions are a mainstay of the festive period. If you are anything like me, you will start the year with all sorts of excellent intentions and goals that you feel you are ready to reach. But often, we set ourselves impossible targets which by the end of January, we have given up on and feel like a failure for thinking we could do it. In an attempt to bring festive cheer and positivity, I have come up with a list of New Year’s resolutions you can keep. Hope you enjoy – let’s smash 2017!

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Most Marvellous Emma Pringle Community leader of the 1940s/1950s Most Marvellous Meet Ups

Meet Ups

Here is a sneak peek at some of the high jinks our members have got up to in the last few months and what Vintage Life readers can be a part of...

This month has seen a whole host of new meet ups. We have had everything from Vintage Fashion meet ups, vintage shopping, 1940s coffee room, live display shopping and knit and natter meets. When starting MMM, the purpose was to find a way of combatting social isolation by having fun through the medium of the 1940s and 1950s. We originally started with simple meets of tea and cake, and it has been a pleasure to see that the meets have become more imaginative and fun. We welcome feedback and suggestions, so any ideas, please feel free to send them to us. Along with the meet ups, we actively promote community enhancing initiatives, and we are currently working on a clothing bank within the group, so that individuals can actively participate in our events and activities without fear of not being able to ‘fit in’. We are also working on a photography project to raise awareness of ‘pin up’ photography and the dangers that both individuals and photographers themselves face when safety nets are not adhered to; with the growing popularity of ‘pin-up’ photography we believe now is the perfect time to do so. Alongside this, we are looking at doing a photography project that promotes a healthier view of going into the new year and we are looking at a body positivity campaign with a difference – we are looking for people to have their photos taken, with an inspirational message alongside them. At the time this column goes to press, our MMM charity calendar goes to print, which has seen a whole host of our members come together alongside the wonderful Pete from Ticketyboo Photography, to create a pin-up and old Hollywood style calendar for ‘The British Lung Foundation.’ This has been managed by our wonderful Fundraising and Special Projects admin Kia Marie Hurley, who has produced the funding for the printing of the calendar through auctions and other fundraising initiatives. Now without further ado, let’s see what our members have been up to this month!

north West meet up Vintage fashion lovers unite! On Saturday 29th October, several of our Most Marvellous ladies assembled at the IWM North in Salford Quays in their finest 40s and 50s attire to take in the Fashion on the Ration exhibition. Karen Harvey said, “Even though I had seen the exhibition in London last year, I was excited to see it again on home turf as I had heard first hand from the Harris Museum in Preston that they had loaned some of their Horrockses items to the exhibition. It therefore promised to be a bit different and did not disappoint, not least because unlike with the London exhibition, we were able to take photos inside.“ Of course, it wasn’t all about fashion. The catering staff at the IWM had kindly put together their afternoon tea for a few of us (which must be ordered in advance) and was most certainly not rationed! There was too much for us but we made sure that all the cake was cleared - waste not, want not. Whilst some of us had to depart straight after the exhibition, several us wished to partake in cocktails and found ourselves in a cosy corner in the Northern quarter of Manchester, after the dressmakers had paid a quick visit to a material emporium. Northampton meet up Northampton Rep Melanie Stevens has been a busy bee out and about for MMM:

Blitz Tearooms and Lounge: “Arriving in Kettering just before midday, Kia and I arranged to meet up with Ashley at The Blitz tea rooms and Jazz Lounge. As we walked into the tea rooms, the sounds of Glenn Miller and Vera Lynn playing on the wireless (sound system) transported you back to the 1940s. The décor was kitted out with memorabilia of the period, down to taped out window panes. Looking up towards the celling, we noticed a stunning mural depicting a bombed-out roof, through which the clouds in the far distance showed four Spitfire aeroplanes having a dog fight; this was a beautiful piece of art. “The menus were printed to look like ration books and we ordered a Vera Lynn Tea, which comprised of pot of tea/ coffee, ham sandwiches, cheese sandwiches, scones, jam with fresh cream and cake, all served up in a mix match of bone china tea cups and side plates. “The food and atmosphere was excellent and we left with tiny doggy bags, a loyalty card and smiles on our faces. This visit certainly proved we should organise a few more meet ups in the future, I would highly recommend visiting this fine establishment.” Bohemian Finds Halloween live window display and St Giles October Fest: “We arranged to meet up at 11.30am at Nana’s kitchen in the most marvellous place to shop. Within minutes the other

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Image credits: Northampton/Kettering photos: Melanie Stevens. Fashion on the ration: Karen Harvey. Nottingham: Jacky Ann Fleming. Knit and Natter : Cieranne Kennedy Bell

Marvelettes joined us: Jayne, Carrie-Anne, Michelle with her little man Bruce, Emily, Jill and Bridie, plus Sarah with her little man Aiden. We all chatted about vintage hair up dos, clothing, dancing the MMMU Christmas Ball while drinking tea and ordering from the home made food menu. “By 1.00 it was time to move on to the next event: Bohemian Finds Halloween live model window display. As we walked through the main high street of Northampton town, we noticed the hustle and bustle of St Crispin’s Street fair, the sweet smell of candyfloss, donuts and caramelized peanuts in the air. Approaching Peacock Place shopping arcade, we were met by a stunning group of pin-up models, all wearing 1940s and 1950s reproduction clothing promoting Bohemian Finds shop. We entered the shop and in the far corner there was a make-up artist, more models and customers. The live window display was then in full effect and the guys and girls strutted and wiggled their stuff on the stage in the shop window. Customers and passers-by watched a couple jiving to Rock and Roll music, which was blasting throughout the shopping arcade. Then Lisa and Tricia, two more Marvelettes, dropped by to watch the display and purchase some pretties. “On the last leg of our meet up, we went to the Guild Hall for the St Giles October Fest. We noticed that there were stalls set up for local independent small business owners to showcase their products, with free samples. As our meet up drew closer to the end, we headed to the pub for one drink to toast new and old friendships and another well turned out meet up.” Nottingham meet up “Our first official Notts mini meet up was on 3rd November. We met up at Hopkinson’s Vintage store on Station Street. We were all in awe of the wonderful stock inside and weren’t sure where to look first! The store is full of vintage and retro items and prices are quite reasonable. “There were seven of us for our meet up and it was the first time we had met. Everyone was so lovely and we very quickly chatted and had a few giggles. We then wandered up to Thea Caffea, a lovely, traditional, family run tearoom on Low Pavement in the city centre, where the lovely Emma joined us. The excellent menu offered great choices to suit everyone; a few of us had lunch, a scone and a traditional pot of tea or a vintage afternoon tea. There was great service and polite staff, which made us feel comfortable. We also had a few members of the public coming over to us, giving us some lovely comments on how fantastic we all looked. “Everyone seemed to relax and enjoy the day, and I feel some wonderful friendships have been formed.”

MMM Events Saturday 7th January Windsor shopping and tea meet. Meet outside The Duchess of Cambridge pub, Windsor, Royal Berkshire at 13.30pm.

Warm Your Cockles Meet. Meet Outside Stockton Bus Station, Main High Street, Stockton-On-Tees.

Saturday 14th January Haverhill vintage tea meet. Doffy’s Vintage Tea Room, Queen Street, Haverhill, Suffolk, 12.00pm.

Saturday 28th January Tea and Cake, followed by a vintage stroll up the river. River tea rooms, Bridge Street, St Ives, Cambridgeshire, 11.00am.

Saturday 14th January Horrockses Dresses (Private Exhibition) Harris Museum & Art Gallery, Market Square, Preston, Lancashire at 11.00am.

Saturday 28th January South Yorkshire’s ode to Burns Night and whiskey tasting! Riley’s and Co, Farrar Road, Sheffield at 19.00pm.

Sunday 15th January Middlesborough’s good old fashioned giant snowball fight! Meet outside Albert Park Main Entrance at 13:00pm.

Sunday 29th January The Forties Experience Meet Up (Herts). The Lincolnfield’s Children’s Centre, Bushey Hall Lane, Bushey, Hertfordshire. Meet outside ticket office at 12.30pm.

Monday 16th January January Charity Shop and

London meet up Knit & Natter Meet Up with Cieranne Kennedy Bell: “This was the first meet up for the Knit and Natter London group, but not the last. We had gallons of tea, humungous slices of delicious cake and thoroughly enjoyed each other’s company whilst sharing our skills. Skill levels varied and that’s the fun of it! I think we all came away not only with some new friends but with some new knowledge as well.” Cieranne will be running the Knit and Knatter meets on the last Wednesday of every month, please see meet up details for further information. Well Vintage Life Readers, we have had another fantastic month here at MMM towers and we are currently enjoying our leftover turkey and mince pies! Until the next time, stay Most Marvellous! | 125

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Vintage Girl About Town Holly foster

It’s been a while since I’ve reported but I have been very busy! For a while now I’ve wanted to return to Yorkshire and when I saw the advert for Pickering’s War on the Line, I knew it was the perfect time to go.


started off my trip with a brief day excursion to Sheffield, which even has its own Vintage Quarter! The city is a fusion of old and new and there is still evidence of the bombings in some of the city’s buildings. In Barker’s Pool in the city centre, there is a permanent memorial to the Women of Steel - a statue dedicated to the thousands of women who were conscripted to work in the Sheffield steel factories during both World Wars. To my surprise and delight, I discovered several great vintage shops including Mooch Vintage, Vulgar Vintage and a lovely little Italian style coffee bar called The Steam Yard (you’ll need a big appetite to manage the Salted Caramel Cronut!). My holiday money was spent in excess in Mooch Vintage; the sales assistants are so polite and friendly! As if vintage shopping in Sheffield wasn’t enough, on Friday I headed to Scarborough. To anyone who remembers ITV’s The Royal, this was the setting for the fictional town of “Elsinby” and whilst the 1960s cars and props have been cleared away, the presence of the show still remains in the familiar streets and the ‘hospital’ building itself that is truly beautiful. I walked along the esplanade where a tollhouse stands – I was informed that this was placed here in Victorian times and that the poor people had to pay a fee to visit the ‘top end of town’. It’s quirky little things like this that give Scarborough its character. After a long walk around the cliff paths I was ready for tea. I headed to South Street, located just off the Esplanade where Francis Tea Rooms is housed. I was informed on entry that the site was originally the place of a 1930s hairdressers and the owners have kept the name to keep the history alive. It was lovely to be able to sit in a little wooden panelled booth and indulge in the plentiful menu. I sampled English Breakfast Tea – one of 40 different varieties available at Francis’ – with sandwiches and scones, which were stunning. I should also say that the staff are so friendly and very knowledgeable about the building, which has some exquisite stained glass windows and even one of Francis’ receipts from the 1930s! After lunch it was onwards and quite

literally upwards to Scarborough’s stunning Grand Hotel, which overlooks the seafront, and a full tour of the Old Town including St Mary’s Church and Peasholm Park which is slightly further out of the main town but is definitely worth a visit. On Saturday night, having not satisfied my vintage shopping fix, I headed over to Riley and Co. in Sheffield for a great night of music, Italian food and vintage games. It was here that I met Riley and Co.’s owner, another Marvelette, and spotted Nadine Dawes and Emma Pringle in attendance too! On Sunday, I headed over to Matlock Bath, suitably attired in 1940s clothes, to join in a Marvelette Meet Up at Puddin’ on the Ritz – quite simply one of the best tearooms that I have been to, ever, and I’ve sampled a lot of English breakfast tea and Victoria sponge! The service was excellent and the tearoom is authentic, as it has original 1940s newspapers, a gorgeous walnut oak cabinet (which the girls and I wanted to smuggle out because it was so stunning!). Puddin’ on the Ritz also serves a wartime favourite, Spam sandwiches, for real authenticity! I also met Wendy Wilkie who runs The Dressing Up Box at the Emporium – her vintage wardrobe is incredible! As we had a limited time to spend in Matlock, we decided to explore the high street. There’s a lovely vintage sweet emporium called Truly Scrumptious and as we were on holiday we couldn’t resist trying our luck on the slot machines in the arcades by the riverside! An injury prevented me from visiting Pickering itself but I did get a brief glimpse as we drove back through the Dales, through Heartbeat village Goathland and Pickering, which was all decorated for the occasion with sandbags and glass tape at the windows of many of the shops! I’ll be going to the event next year and am really excited to see it for myself! So, just a reminder: Francis Tea Rooms: 7 South St, South Cliff, Scarborough, YO11 2BP, Puddin on the Ritz: 67 N Parade, Matlock, DE4 3NS.

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Manchester Tweed Ride

Get on your bike!

michelle hollamby

Photographs by gerry gentry


Blue skies, warm autumn sunshine – the perfect weather for the ladies and gentlemen of the Manchester Tweed ride’s October get together.

et up in 2011 and run by Kieran Evans and Nick Hubble, the ride takes place every quarter on the first Sunday of the month. The cycle route varies each ride and is genteel and easy paced, incorporating such things as museums, vintage fairs and exhibitions along the way. Suitable for young and old alike, the group are always happy to welcome new members; it's a great way to socialise with a friendly bunch of individuals, with the bonus of some light exercise. The starting point for the October ride was Manchester town hall in Albert Square, a lovely iconic building and a perfect backdrop for photo opportunities. The ride always starts centrally, sometimes The Angel pub in the Northern Quarter is used as the landlord there is a collector of old bicycles and cars and a lover of tweed, and is always accommodating for the cyclists. There are also feeder rides for those who choose to cycle into town instead of driving, so each step of the way you will be in good company. One by one, the fabulous array of bicycles began to arrive at the town hall for the 1pm start time, catching up with familiar faces and a few new ones, admiring each other's attire and bicycles. The October ride incorporated a visit to the vintage fair at the Grade II listed Victoria Baths and stopped along the way for refreshments. Though 'Tweed' is the order of the day it is not compulsory; quirky and stylish are also welcome as it is more about sharing fun and laughter with likeminded people and of course, a chance to dress in your finery. The ride covered approximately six

miles of relaxing cycling and was led by Kieran with a route suitable for all. Consideration for the different styles of bicycle, as well as age groups, is taken very seriously. Tandems, trikes and even Penny Farthings have been known to frequent the ride. If you’re familiar with Penny Farthings you will know all too well that they are not the easiest bicycle to mount and dismount, and traffic lights are indeed the biggest issue for that bicycle. The youngest member of the group was a little lady by the name of Aline, dad Sam has been taking Aline out in her Harris Tweed baby carrier since the age of four months and this was her second outing on The Tweed Ride, along with mum Sarah. Aline is now 18 months old and seems to thoroughly enjoy all aspects of the ride. The cyclists attracted lots of attention whilst pootling along, ringing their bells and tooting their horns to the people going about their daily business. Lots of waves and smiles were exchanged: a perfect way to spend a Sunday afternoon. The ride finished off with a chance to wind down, back to Albert Square for those who wished to take a seat before heading home. There was reserved seating outside the Slug & Lettuce where you could indulge in a little more socialising and food and drink. The Manchester Tweed Ride is the first Sunday of the month in January, April, July and October. Finally, to quote Kieran himself, “the tweed ride is a dashing good excuse to don your finest garb and pootle at a procrastinating pace about our fine city with like-minded souls.” Who could resist? | 95

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In at the Gemma Miller Wife to a grumpy husband, mother to three grumpy children, 1950s fashion obsessive, record collector and award winning vintage events organiser! Tell Gemma about YOUR event and why she should visit it!

Deep end...

As an event organiser, it’s rare that in my downtime I get to attend a vintage fair without there being an ulterior motive. Maybe I’m going to check out a trader or drop off some flyers for a future event. Any fellow organiser will tell you, it’s always work, work, and work.


o, it made a refreshing change to head off for a day out in Manchester (childfree, might I add!) with the express purpose of mooching around a vintage fair for me and then to heading off to the Northern Quarter to find yet more records for my husband. First, our destination was Victoria Baths for The Discover Vintage Home and Fashion Fair curated by Keeley Harris. You may know Keeley from the Festival Of Vintage in York every April, which is a mammoth event spread across many floors with live music and dance classes. The Victoria Bath’s fairs are more of a ‘back to basics vintage fair’ with lots of quality homeware and clothing traders packed into this amazing former swimming pool in the outskirts of Manchester. Bathed in the warm autumn sun, it stands grand and impressive and I was keen to get in and check out the restoration work that has been taking place over the past few years. The building has retained lots of the original features and the stained glass windows were beautiful. I even managed to sneak a picture in the original changing rooms which was pretty cool, but back to the shopping... Alongside discovering lots of new traders, it was a great chance to catch up with some of my favourite traders who have been at my events over the summer. ‘Love From Ria Beer’ is one of my favourite stalls for cute and quirky ceramics and glassware. Ria and her mum go to great lengths to source some fab bits and pieces and I always love that they’re so reasonably priced. I’ve made plans to have a private viewing of Ria’s extensive suitcase collection as I keep sourcing stuff for our new pub. At this rate, I’ll need a bigger pub! Next stop was ‘Enid Brown & Sons’ who specialise in lots of cute retro kid’s toys and tins. I love how this stall is always dressed with lots of battery-powered lights and the use of wooden crates

to create different level displays. You can’t help but be drawn in! I had my eye on a cute Oriental inspired 50s tray so I now have a huge case of shoppers remorse as I wish I’d bought it now. If you were paying attention to last month’s article you’ll know that I clearly never learn my lesson! But what I did mange to scoop up, more than makes up for the lack of tray. I persuaded James to treat me to a gorgeous 1950s fit and flare coat from ‘Vintage-Beau.’ I’m not ashamed to say that not only does it fit me like a glove, but I drew lots of gasps of delight from other stallholders and visitors who were convinced it was made for me. It does make me wonder if the traders that now know my style (basically ANYTHING 50s!) do this on purpose. They eye up the stock and think ‘Gemma won’t be able to resist this!’ Trudy Fielding, I’m looking at you here! Keeley managed to take a quick snap of me posing in my coat, I can only hope I was a good advert for people scouring her Instagram feed that day! So with a big investment purchase under my arm I set about scouring the remaining stalls. It was good to see a vintage print stall there and it’s given us even more ideas for theming our guest bedrooms at the pub with a vintage travel theme. See, I’m ALWAYS working even when I try and convince myself that I’m not. I also spent a lot of time admiring the huge selection of vintage watches on display too. Although I’m a huge jewellery fanatic, I’ve not worn a watch in years. Maybe this is my chance to drop some hints to James? But, let’s be honest, he only has vinyl and craft ale on his mind so we bid farewell and headed off to quench his thirst! I can highly recommend Keeley’s events and you can find out more by heading to or check out her Instagram feeds for updates on events and for a sneaky peek at the items that will be heading there.

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Events in jan – FEB

21st January Oxford’s Vintage January Sale. Catholic Chaplaincy, The Old Palace, Rose Place, St Aldate’s Oxford, OX1 1RD. 11am-4pm, £2 entry, under 12s free.

11am-4pm, £2 entry, under 12s free. 28th january Lou Lou’s Vintage Fair. The Assembly Rooms, 54 George Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2LR. 11am-5pm, 29th January Newcastle’s Vintage January Sale. The Biscuit Factory, Stoddart Street, Newcastle, NE2 1AN. 11am4pm, £2 entry, under 12s free.

Paintworks, Bath Road, Bristol, BS4 3EH. 11am-4pm, entry £2, under 12s free. 11th February Lou Lou’s Vintage Fair. Hull City Hall, Queen Victoria Square, Carr Lane, Hull, HU1 3RQ. 11am-5pm. 12th FEBRuary The National Vintage Wedding Fair. Chiswick Town Hall, Heathfield Terrace, Chiswick, London, W4 4JN. £4

22nd january Cambridge’s Vintage January Sale. The Guildhall, Market Square, Cambridge, CB2 3QJ. 11am-4pm, £2 entry.

29th January Lou Lou’s Vintage Fair. City Hall, Gorsedd Gardens, Cardiff, CF10 3ND. 10am-6pm,

12th FEBRuary The Vintage Village. Stockport Covered Market Hall, Market Place, Stockport, SK1 1EU. 10am-4pm.

22nd January Southport Antiques and Collectors Fair. The Dunes Leisure Centre. The Esplanade, Southport, Merseyside, PR8 1RX. Trade 8.30am-10am (free with card), public 10am-3.30pm, adults £2, children free of charge.

29th january BathVA Market. Green Park Station, Green Park Road, Bath, BA1 1JB. Takes place on the first and last Sunday of every month, 8.30am4pm.

12th FEBRuary Pop Up Vintage Fairs at Alexandra Palace, Alexandra Palace Way, London, N22 7AY. 9.30am–4.30pm, £6. alexandra-palace

28th january Saltaire Vintage Home and Fashion Fair. Victoria Hall, Saltaire, West Yorkshire, BD18 3JS. 9.30am-4pm. 28th January Birmingham’s Vintage January Fair. Carrs Lane Church, Carrs Lane, Birmingham, B4 7SX.

4th FEBRuary Lou Lou’s Vintage Fair. Sheffield City Hall, Barkers Pool, Sheffield, S1 2JA. 11am-5pm. 4th FEBRuary Bath’s Affordable Vintage Fair. Bath Guildhall, High Street, Bath, BA1 5AW. 11am-4pm, £2 entry, under 12s free. 5th FEBRuary Bristol’s Affordable Vintage Fair.

15th January The London Vintage Fashion, Textiles and Accessories Fair. Hammersmith Town Hall, King Street, London, W6 9JU. £10 from 8am-10am, £5 from 10am-5pm.

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January 2017  

Issue 74

January 2017  

Issue 74