Page 72


is not the snails, it’s that you don’t have enough ducks!” he muses. “It’s so smart. Classic science says ‘fix the snails’, but you can use soft ways to fix your problems. You just need to bring the conditions together to get the result you want and not try to be too strong. Don’t rush, make it happen but observe and be smart.”

Bordeaux. It was better than the widespaced VSP (vertical shoot position) that had been experimented with previously. Mark Fesq, who was a partner in Heemskerk and head of Fesq & Company, says that Lécaillon impressed from the very beginning - knowledgeable, fascinated and learning on the job. His approach in the vineyards achieved a level of ripeness uncommon for the site. The grapes, subsequently, became very promising, but there was still so little of it.

The unlikely encounter changed everything for Lécaillon who would later adopt permaculture theory as his philosophical guide. In Tasmania, however, there was no opportunity for such “Jean-Baptiste made a progressive “Jean-Baptiste was outgoing. He rather amazing 1990 thinking in had a sharp palate and intellect and pinot noir that we a business liked taking a high-tech approach to couldn’t normally get grappling information collection.” the ripeness to make to get the into a wine – maybe fundamentals one in 10 years,” says Fesq. “He also made right. But the writing was already on the a 1991 chardonnay with fantastic ripeness. wall, for Lécaillon, who caught the eye of From the 1989, 1990 and 1991 harvests he his Tasmanian acquaintances on account made méthode traditionnelle that turned of his penchant for new, better or more into brilliant wines in the long-term.” interesting ways of doing things. Lécaillon managed to achieve some Andrew Pirie, Lécaillon’s former success out of a lineage of failure. It Tasmanian neighbour and current owner resulted in the very first bottling, and of Apogee Wines, was one of his admirers. subsequent launch, of Jansz – which has gone on to become one of Australia’s “Jean-Baptiste was outgoing. He had a sharp palate and intellect and liked taking most recognised and celebrated sparkling wines. a high-tech approach to information collection,” he says. Despite complications, those early In response to the unsettling winds of the site, Pirie says Lécaillon adopted a Lyre Trellis system, which was briefly in fashion in the 1990s, drawing on research undertaken by Alain Carbonneau from 71


v ine a ndb u bbl e .c om

years were successful in many ways for Lécaillon, not the least of which was turning a corner in challenging viticultural conditions and bringing about some tangible outcomes for

Profile for VINE & BUBBLE Magazine

VINE & BUBBLE Magazine Issue No.1