Kneading Bread – a local story This is a story that brings together locally grown product, a rural community and a desire to be noticed. It uses all the best provenance ingredients and yet reaches outwards to find the innovation to take it beyond the natural markets of fresh bread. There is also the strong entrepreneurial spirit so often found among farmers and businesses in regional Australia. It began on the flatlands around Ouyen with locally sourced grain in 1936 and travelled a path across Victoria that loosely followed the contours of the Murray River to land in Benalla’s main street. Skipping ahead 60 years to a new generation of bakers saw the challenge and the opportunities of the bread industry deregulation in 1992. Like all deregulation, competition was intensified. In this case, it was the white bread market. The change of industry structure opened up opportunities for second generation pastry chef and baker Andrew Bertalli. Taking over the reins of Alpine Breads from his father Dick, armed with qualifications from the Bread Research Institute of Australia, Andrew realised he needed to specialise in new bread offerings to ensure growth in which the next generation would flourish. The timing was right as the food market was seeing more consumers seeking gluten free options. “I looked at consumer research about gluten free and saw the growing demand for gluten free products. People with coeliac disease account for about one percent of Australia’s population, yet the gluten free market is around eight percent of Australian consumers”, said Andrew.
the CSIRO developed BARLEYmax™ (a high fibre wholegrain with a low glycemic index and positive biomarkers in bowel health) along with collaborations with leading dietitians through Australian research which included the Monash University developed FODMAP diet*. The result of these collaborations is a series of unique breads that incorporate Australian grains, pulses and seeds along with local talent and a supply chain that puts Benalla at the centre. With two son’s – Thomas and Sam – now working in the family business in Benalla, Alpine Breads employs over 30 locals and delivers bread (the current range includes eight breads themed heart, protein and FODMAP) into all major supermarkets in Victoria plus 100 independents, and a growing network in NSW and the food service sector. Given the distribution network and online sales centred on Benalla, Alpine Breads needed to extend the shelf-life of its products to ensure integrity into the market. A global review of fresh product packaging by Andrew and a new team of Melbourne creatives led to the zip and tuck European packaging design which increases the shelf-life of Alpine Breads from two days to seven days in-store. “Our new packaging has allowed us to expand and tell our story as a maker of Australia’s number one functional bread”. However Alpine Breads still has Benalla at its core with a retail store at the bakery and Andrew still “on the tools”.
“This market is growing as more is understood about irritable bowel syndrome and the food triggers”.
“It’s important to keep the bread at the heart of the business. I work alongside my son’s in the bakery at least once a week”.
“Walking the aisles of supermarket, I looked at the growing ranges of cereals created by the big commercial brands. I realised the new gluten free and heart smart cereals would make great breads”.
* FOOTNOTE: Put simply, FODMAPs are a collection of short-chain carbohydrates (sugars) that are not absorbed properly in the gut, which can trigger symptoms in people with irritable bowel syndrome (IBS). FODMAPs are found naturally in many foods and food additives. A FODMAP diet is a diet that is low in FODMAPs thereby reducing the irritants that cause IBS. About one in seven Australian adults are affected by IBS.
“Making bread from gluten free grains and seeds is not as simple as tipping a box of cereal into the oven”. This on-the-go research allowed Andrew to experiment with ingredients whilst working with new grains such as
NEW IDEAS
Jessica Purbrick-Herbst Head of Engagement & Communication jpurbrick-herbst@vff.org.au
VICTORIAN FARMER | APRIL 2018
30