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The world of personal care ingredients

PUREHealth Magazine

AUTUMN EDITION 2011

Male grooming The single man Spotting a gap in the market

Formulation & Innovation Peptides in cosmetics: holy grail or marketing buzzword?

Skincare Naturally sensitive

Regional Report Beauty and Brazil

Green Chemicals A green alternative

www.purehealthmag.co.uk


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contents AUTUMN EDITION 2011

CONTENTS ue...

s s i s i h t n I

12 From the Editor

05 Evolution Time for Personal Care

Charlotte Hodgson

EVENT PREVIEW

06 Overcoming Formulation Challenges at in-cosmetics Asia Cathy Laporte

08 Formulating by Computer: Art or Science? Prof. Johann Wiechers

28

News and Products

10 A Round Up of the Latest News and Updates

Male Grooming

12 Spotting a Gap in the Market Jules Birch

14 The Single Man Yeah-Young Baek

08

20

Hair Care

16 The World’s Most Widely Used Antidandruff Shampoo Active

Dr George Polson

Skincare

20 Cosmetic Sustainability Angus Robertson

24 A Friend to Skin and Environment Odile Grahl

26 Not Just for the Heart David Peters

28 Naturally Sensitive Dr Lilia Heider

Formulation and Innovation

06

30 Peptides in Cosmetics: Holy Grail or Marketing Buzzword? Dr Mojgan Moddaresi

Regional Report 42 Beauty and Brazil Sérgio Rebêlo

16 2011 autumn

Green Chemicals and CSR 46 A Green Alternative Guisi Losi

3


staff Registered Office:

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Publisher endeavours to collect and include complete, correct and current information in Pure Health Magazine, but does not warrant that any or all of such information is complete, correct or current. Publisher does not assume, and hereby disclaims, any liability to any person or entity for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions of any kind, whether resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. If you do Content/Marketing Manager Claire Day notice any error, we would appreciate if you would bring such error to our attention. claire.day@via-medialtd.com Pure Health Magazine does not verify any claims or other information appearing Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 129 in any of the advertisements contained in the publication, and cannot take any Circulation responsibility for any losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on Circulation Manager such content. info@via-medialtd.com Copyright © 2010, Via Media UK Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or Via Media UK Limited mechanical including by photocopy, recording or information storage and retrieval Managing Director system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Simon Jones simon.jones@via-medialtd.com Send permission request in writing to Permissions Department, Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 131 Pure Health Magazine, Fax +44 (0)1372 364 121. Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or Financial Controller personal use of specific clients, is granted for libraries and other users registered Cherelle Saunders with the Copyright Licensing Agency, 90 Tottenham Court Road, London W1P 0LP, cherelle.saunders@via-medialtd.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 123 UK (ISSN 2046-2735 ). 07.09.2010 15:23 Uhr Seite 3

www.stolz-concept.de

We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality

FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com


from the editor

for

A

e r a C l a n o s r Pe

ntiageing, age

serious toll on health and quality

must be another mechanism

defying, age

of life … no matter how dewy

in the immune system causing

prevention, youth

your complexion is. Professor

cells to become deactivated

maintenance, etc.,

Arne Akbar of UCL (University

that was independent of

etc. and so forth.

College London), who led this

telomere length. Professor

What we’re really talking about is

research, explains: “Our immune

Akbar continues: “Finding that

making consumers look younger

systems get progressively weaker

these inactive cells had long

than they are, by plumping their

as we age because each time

telomeres was really exciting

cheeks, moisturizing their skin

we recover from an infection, a

as it meant that they might not

and reducing the depth of their

proportion of our white blood

be permanently deactivated.

wrinkles. For what? To keep them

cells become deactivated.

It was like a football manager

sexually attractive for longer?

This is an important process

finding out that some star

To increase their self-esteem?

that has probably evolved to

players who everyone thought

To fool us and them that what

prevent certain cancers; but, as

had retired for good could be

work has discovered a new and

we see on the outside does not

the proportion of inactive cells

coaxed back to play in one last

unforeseen process controlling

reflect the biological processes

builds up with time, our defences

important game.”

how our immune systems change

that are continuing apace on

become weakened. What this

the inside. Yes, my skin looks

research shows is that some of

this newly identified pathway

in detail how our cells work, it

great, but can you help me out

these cells are being actively

in the lab, they found that the

has opened up the prospect of

of my wheelchair? Wouldn’t it

switched off in our bodies by a

white blood cells appeared to

helping older people’s immune

make more sense to take a less

mechanism that hadn’t been

be reactivated. Medicines that

systems using medicines that

superficial, skin-deep look at

identified before as being

block this pathway are already

are already being tested and

antiageing and target the whole

important in immune system

being developed and tested

developed. By increasing

body … instead of just one of its

ageing. Although we wouldn’t

for use in other treatments; so,

the incidence and severity of

organs? Then, those very same

want to reactivate these cells

the next step in this research is

infection, weakened immunity

consumers would look good

permanently, we have an idea

to explore further whether white

seriously damages the health and

and feel good, which has got to

now of how to wake them from

blood cells could be reactivated

quality of life of older people so

be the driving force behind any

their slumber temporarily, just to

in older people, and what

this research is very valuable.” For

product designed to improve

give the immune system a little

benefits this could bring. Professor

a long time now, pharmaceutical

the lifestyle and well-being of

boost.”

Akbar added: “This research

and nutraceutical companies

opens up the exciting possibility

have been reviewing each

the paying public. I’m driven

Until now, ageing in immune

When the researchers blocked

as we get older. Also, by exploring

to this statement by news that

cells was thought to be

of giving older people’s immune

other’s activity … and the

researchers funded by the

determined by the length of

systems a temporary boost to

sectors are converging at an

Biotechnology and Biological

special caps on the ends of

help them fight off infections, but

increasing rate. Perhaps it’s time

Sciences Research Council (BBSRC)

our DNA. These caps, called

this is not a fountain of eternal

for the personal care industry

have discovered a new mechanism

telomeres, get shorter each time

youth. It is perfectly normal for

to embrace its pharma/nutra

controlling ageing in white blood

a white blood cell multiplies until,

our immune systems to become

brethren and expand its remit to

cells. The research, published

when they get too short, the cell

less effective and there are

go beyond cosmetics and tackle

in a recent issue of the Journal

gets permanently deactivated.

good evolutionary reasons for

the greater issues of healthspan,

of Immunology, opens up the

This means that our immune

this. We’re a long way from

well-being and a more holistic

possibility of temporarily reversing

cells have a built-in lifespan of

having enough understanding of

approach to both looking and

the effects of ageing on immunity

effectiveness and, as we live

ageing to consider permanently

feeling good for longer. PHM

and could, in the future, allow

longer, this is no longer long

rejuvenating white blood cells, if it

for the short-term boosting of the

enough to provide us protection

is even possible.”

immune systems of older people.

into old age. However, when

Weakened immunity is a

Professor Douglas Kell, Chief

Professor Akbar’s team took

Executive of the Biotechnology

serious issue for older people.

some blood samples and looked

and Biological Sciences

Because our immune systems

closely at the white blood cells,

Research Council, said: “This is a

become less effective as we age,

they saw that some were inactive

fantastic example of the value

we suffer from more , which are

and yet had long telomeres. This

of deepening our understanding

often more severe. This takes a

told the researchers that there

of fundamental cell biology. This

2011 autumn

For more information

Charlotte Hodgson Assistant Editor, Pure Health Magazine Tel. +44 1372 364 130 charlotte.hodgson@via-medialtd.com www.purehealthmag.co.uk

5


guest editorial

A series of formulation workshops is set to give manufacturers an insight into how they can tackle common obstacles and improve their formulations at this year’s in-cosmetics Asia. Run by renowned scientific experts, the four half-day workshops — 2–4 November — will examine issues surrounding claim support and efficacy testing, skin lightening, formulating with fragrances, sensory science and optimizing cosmetic formulations digitally.

S

tephen Weller, Director

have more and better data to

of complex data analysis, Prof.

of Communications

support the claims from ingredient

Dr Wiechers will explain how it is

at the International

suppliers or from their own testing.

possible to transform a successful

Fragrance Association

This workshop will examine why we

European product into an equally

(IFRA) will lead the

need to support claims and what

successful Asian equivalent. This

first workshop of the day on 3

the requirements are.” Fabrice

requires detailed knowledge of the

November. “Formulating with

Perrin, Director at Spin Control

sensory profiles of raw materials as

Fragrances” will delve into the

Asia will then go on to explain

well as an understanding of their

complexities of the topic, taking

how cosmetics can improve the

influence in determining skin-feel.

a look at the world of fragrance

well-being and quality of life of

The second workshop of the day

regulation. The recent changes

consumers and Cecilia Li from the

will examine how to “Optimize

at IFRA and what it means to

Johnson & Johnson Asia Pacific

Cosmetic Formulations Digitally.”

the cosmetics and fragrance

Skin Testing Center will demonstrate

As Prof. Dr Wiechers explains:

industry and its customer will also

how it is possible to achieve an

“There are so many factors to

be discussed. Dr Matthias Vey,

attractive claim for whitening by

consider when formulating a

Scientific Director at IFRA, will

using a multiplex clinical design.

cosmetic product that by the time

then go on to outline the latest

Concluding the claims support

it comes to the efficient delivery

developments on the Quantitative

programme, Dr R.B. Mohile

of an active ingredient, most

Risk Assessment (QRA) approach

from C.L.A.I.M.S India (Clinical

formulators simply hope for the

adopted by IFRA, offering an

Aesthetics and Investigative

best. This hope-and-see mentality

overview of the 46th Amendment

Management Services) will ask the

is not out of choice but because it

to the IFRA Standards. There will

question, “Which comes first: claims

is too difficult for most formulators

also be an interactive touch

or efficacy testing?” arguing that

to transform complex skin delivery

and feel session from a leading

it could be possible to reverse the

theories into practical formulations.

fragrance house, exploring the

usual process and have efficacy

This workshop will focus on how

latest trends as well as the sensory

testing drive the claims as opposed

to get the most out of the active

issues that go hand in hand with

to the other way around.

ingredient by using technology.”

fragrance formulation.

 The final day of the exhibition

Cathy Laporte, Marketing

(4 November) will play host to two

Manager for in-cosmetics Asia

Consulting will introduce the

further workshops. Organized

concluded: “The formulation

second workshop of the day.

by Prof. Dr Johann Wiechers

workshops at in-cosmetics Asia

“Claims Support: What’s New in

from JW Solutions, “Sensory

have traditionally been extremely

Cosmetics Efficacy Testing” will

Science: Scientific Principles and

well attended and have become

give manufacturers advice and

Methodologies” will look at how

an integral feature of the

guidance on how to evaluate

the feel of cosmetic products

educational programme. We have

test results to support the claims

differs between Asia and Europe

some very well regarded experts

of cosmetic products. Explaining

as well as how to formulate a

lined up to present so I would

the rationale behind the topic,

specific skin-feel into a cosmetic

urge anyone involved in cosmetic

he commented: “Consumers

formulation. Not only will the theory

formulation, experienced

are more and more demanding

of different types of sensory testing

formulators or managers of

when it comes to product efficacy

be explained, but attendees will

cosmetic product development

data and regulators want to see

also be able to test the products

departments to book onto a

supporting documents for the

to feel the difference that these

workshop to ensure they get the

claims that are being made. R&D

techniques can bring to their

most from their products in the

formulators therefore need to

cosmetic business. By means

long run.” PHM

Dr Alain Khaiat from Seers

6

For more information

Cathy Laporte Marketing Manager in-cosmetics Asia www.in-cosmeticsasia.com.

autumn 2011


Good looks, good sense. Cosmetics offer a feast for the senses – but what about the sense of responsibility? Evonik works with you to see your innovations through to completion, while at the same time living up to environmental responsibilities. That means you can create products appealing to the desire for good looks – and the need to act with good sense.

Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH Essen, Germany phone +49 201 173 2854 personal-care@evonik.com responsibility-personal-care@evonik.com www.evonik.com/personal-care


event preview

Formulating by Computer in-cosmetics Asia heads to Bangkok from the 2–4 November 2011. Highlights include a series of formulation workshops set to give manufacturers a practical insight into how they can tackle common obstacles and improve their formulations.

P

rofessor Dr Johann Wiechers from JW Solutions, an independent consultancy in

cosmetic science, will explore Optimize Cosmetic Formulations Digitally on Friday 4 November from 14.00–17.00. Here he talks in more depth about the key elements of the workshop. Ask a group of formulators whether cosmetic formulation is an art or a science and most will tell you that it is both. But if you had to choose only one or the other, which one would you go for? If you asked a computer to paint a Renoir, would it work? No, that’s art. But ask a computer to make a formulation and the answer depends on how much you know about formulation science. If you don’t know a lot, it becomes an art. If

fully mastered yet — will remain.

brain. Most cosmetic formulators

you know what you are doing,

In my workshop at in-cosmetics

think that they can feel everything.

understand your ingredients

Asia, I will explain this science

By applying certain cosmetic

and how they work alone and

and see how it can be used to

products on their hands, they will

together, then it becomes a

select emollients and emulsifiers.

find out how good they really are.

science that you can cleverly use

Examples of enhanced stability

For example, it’s often not clear

in new formulations. Strangely

and enhanced skin delivery will

what the words ‘wetness’ and

enough, however, cosmetic

also be shown for use in daily

moisturization’ really mean; some

formulators have traditionally

cosmetic formulating.

words are strictly technical, others are more consumer. What is in fact

been better at the artistic than

a light formulation? We all know

do for the last few years is to put

Sensory Science in Cosmetic Product Design

all this science into a computer

Professor Wiechers will also

difficult this is. How do you distil the

programme that predicts

explore Sensory Science

real differences and plot them?

the behaviour of chemicals

— Scientific Principles and

in formulations. It calculates

Methodologies on Friday 4

in sensory science is of course

many of the scientific aspects

November from 14.00–17.00

how to get a specific feel in

of cosmetic formulating that

during a hands-on workshop in

formulations. It is essential to

formulators tend to forget. For

which participants will really get

look specifically at the effects

your specific needs, it selects the

their hands dirty. You often hear

of emulsifiers, emollients and

best emollients and emulsifiers

people talk about workshops that

polymers to do this. My workshop

and identifies the percentages.

are a one-way conference. They

at in-cosmetics Asia will provide

Does this mean that you will lose

claim that they are hands-on,

attendees with better clarity on all

your job as a formulator? No,

but you only use your brain. Not in

these areas, really demonstrating

absolutely not; many aspects of

my sensory workshop. You need

how to use sensory science in

the science — which we have not

to use both your hands and your

cosmetic product design. PHM

the scientific part. What I have been trying to

8

what it means but try to formulate it into words and you will see how

The other important angle

For more information

To find out more about the in-cosmetics Asia workshops and to book, go to www.in-cosmeticsasia.com/ Workshops.

autumn 2011


news Male Grooming Brand Launches Expanded Range

The Bluebeards Revenge has expanded its product range. Gaining rave reviews from the media, retailers and end users alike, Tom Truman, sales manager for the brand, remarked: “The Bluebeards Revenge has had an amazing reception from the market, with high praise heaped not only on the quality of the products but also our eye-catching and unique packaging and marketing style.” This obviously spurred the team into action — the brand now sports five new products in the range — and Tom is deservedly proud of their achievement, explaining that they “have pulled out all the stops to produce a range of products suitable for mass-market retailers.” A reduction in end selling price has been introduced but, importantly, it has not been at the expense of product quality or iconic branding. All the shaving products still contain the unique, beard reducing ingredient, Decelerine, and the critically acclaimed shaving experience remains intact. Decelerine, a key ingredient of the range, is a unique ingredient that targets hair follicle cells and weakens new hair formation. It has proved to be effective in inhibiting hair growth, decreasing the length and density of unwanted hair and providing a soothing, moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effect on the skin. As well as slowing beard regrowth, Decelerine relieves and soothes the effects of shaving, helping to combat common shaving problems such as razor burn, razor rash and bumps. The Bluebeards Revenge, which uses totally recyclable packaging, is suitable for vegetarians and Paraben Free (www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk).

A Truly Professional Guy

M&H Plastics has worked with internationally renowned hairdresser, Guy Kremer, on the launch of a new collection of hair care products, creating an exclusive range of contemporary packaging. M&H’s new 250 mL Tranquility bottle in HDPE was chosen to represent the Cleanse and Rebalance range, which is formulated with essential nutrients to help to balance the hair’s chemistry and restore it to optimum condition. The Tranquility bottle is a smooth, tapered oval shape with a soft gentle feel, sporting a colour palette that combines pink, blue and lavender with a pearlescent sheen. The 23 mm snap-on flip top caps are colour co-ordinated and the bottle front foil blocked in silver to imbue a sense of luxury. The Tranquility is one of the latest additions to the M&H portfolio of more than 1000 products and is available in 250 mL and 200 mL bottles sizes (www.mhplastics.com).

KCC Acquires Basildon Chemical

In April 2011, KCC Corporation (Korea) purchased Basildon Chemicals, opening up new opportunities for both companies. KCC gained a company with a long history of excellence in silicone emulsification and industry acceptance, whereas Basildon gained the backing of one of the world’s fastest growing primary silicone manufacturers. “With Basildon Chemicals, KCC strengthened its service value chain. Our clients have access to specific personal care solutions, with world-class specialty silicone fluids, as well as bespoke emulsions and dispersions,” said Philippe Rovere, commercial manager, KCC Europe. “This strategic acquisition combines the silicone manufacturing and formulating skills of KCC Corporation to best serve its strong organic growth in Europe. KCC Silicone is a leading silicon-based specialty chemicals division of KCC Corporation. With $435 million invested during the last 13 years, and brandishing the catchphrase, “New World, New Leader, New Face,” KCC Corporation is emerging as a new worldwide silicone player (www.kccsilicone.com).


Boosting Vitamin Concentrations

Many cosmetic creams on the market claim to contain antioxidants that will protect against and reverse ageing; in reality, however, the concentrations in many of the available formulations are very low and not well absorbed by the skin. Vitamin C, an important antioxidant, is proven to be effective in the preventing photoageing of the skin when manufactured into a stable topical formulation. This is just what Alta Care Laboratories have achieved with their Dermastir Vitamin C cosmetic ampoules, which prevent the usual rapid decay of the vitamin before use and which also, owing to its high concentration, cannot be washed or sweated off once applied to the skin. Vitamin C is particularly effective at protecting the skin from the free radical increase associated with, for example, exposure to the sun, pollutants and excessive alcohol. It reduces fine lines and wrinkles and promotes wound healing by stabilizing collagen production. A range of cosmetic serum ampoules containing other highly active and concentrated ingredients is also available (www.altacare.com).

Blue Sky Botanics Champions Fairtrade for Skincare

Blue Sky Botanics is leading the way in Fairtrade skincare with its ever-expanding PHYTAFAIR extracts range. The business sources Fairtrade-certified ingredients from co-operative farmers and farming associations across the globe. This ensures that all products in the Blue Sky Botanics PHYTAFAIR range are ethically and sustainably sourced and designed to achieve the maximum Fairtrade ingredient portion in final formulations. Heading the PHYTAFAIR range are fruit extracts and fresh juices that are perfect for skincare as they are packed full of vitamins and minerals, and bursting with antioxidants that nourish and brighten the skin. Not only can customers be assured that they are buying high quality extracts when sourcing from the PHYTAFAIR range, they can also be confident that farmers are receiving a fair price for their crops and that sustainability, biodiversity and local communities are being supported. Blue Sky Botanics also supply from six other PHYTA product ranges; PHYTAPURE organic extracts, PHYTATRUE and PHYTAFARM herbal extracts, PHYTAFIX extracts with standardized levels of specific compounds, PHYTACTIVE extracts with proven activity and PHYTASELECT bespoke extracts. Blue Sky Botanics director, James Lambe, said: “Working with Fairtrade ingredients is a win-win activity; consumers feel good and the world’s poorest farmers, their communities and the environment reap the benefits. Formulators should contact us so we can guide them through the issues surrounding compliance with the Fairtrade Standards for cosmetics.” For more information, visit www.blueskybotanics.com.

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male grooming

Spotting a Gap A 100% natural soluble skin supplement aimed

to feel extremely self-conscious about their skin problem. In fact, you might be surprised to know

at men who suffer from

that men are actually more

problem skin has been

during their adolescence. In

prone to acne than women

launched in the UK.

addition, the number of adult

The newest addition to

similar to of women. help: clear

men who suffer from acne is quite

the health supplement

skin MEN is a simple, easy-to-stick-

range from Works with

which is exactly what men value

Water Nutraceuticals, help: clear skin MEN

to treatment that delivers results … when searching for an effective skin product.”

contains milk protein,

Effective Natural Ingredients

a scientifically proven

The key ingredient is a bioactive

Lactoferrin Summary

Lactoferrin is a protein found in human and cow milk and in the fluids of the eyes, nose and elsewhere in the body. It has antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunomodulatory activities. Antioxidants are receiving increasing attention as possible therapeutic agents in infections and a variety of other diseases; Lactoferrin’s antioxidant activity contributes to its immunomodulatory activity. The protein’s ability to bind iron contributes to both its antioxidant properties (free iron is a contributor in the generation of free radicals) and antibacterial action.

Proven Results Research by Mintel has shown that men are not interested in hollow marketing promises and are looking for grooming products that deliver results quickly. “Men are less patient than women when it comes to researching and buying grooming products. As a brand, it is important to acknowledge this and develop products that deliver on the promises stated on-pack,” says Jules Birch from Works with Water Nutraceuticals. “Our customers should see tangible results in their skin after 6 weeks of twice-daily use of help: clear skin MEN. However, every person is unique in their

milk protein, rich in lactoferrin,

that taking 200 mg of Praventin

genetic makeup, and if results

which has been shown to reduce

a day is sufficient to reduce

cannot be seen after this period of

reduce the appearance

the development of the bacteria

the appearance of spots and

use, we recommend seeking an

of spots and blemishes in

responsible for many skin impurities

blemishes in less than 8 weeks.

alternative solution.” The product

and help to prevent the formation

Both studies showed that 75%

testimonials received by the brand

of blemishes as a result of its

of respondents observed a fair

are evidence that this results driven

antimicrobial effects. Although

to very good improvement in

approach has been a real success

esearch has shown

this protein can be found in

their skin condition — including

with male consumers. PHM

that men have

milk, the beneficial skin clearing

fewer blemishes — a reduction

taken a more active

effect is only activated when this

in the amount of redness and

interest in their

bioactive protein is extracted. In

less oiliness. Each sachet of help:

appearance during

addition to its antibacterial and

clear skin MEN contains 100 mg

the last few years, resulting in a

antiviral properties, lactoferrin

of Praventin, which is why we

demand for male-specific skin

is antifungal, anti-inflammatory,

recommended that two sachets

products. As a quarter of all men

antioxidant and stimulates

are taken each day to achieve

suffer from spots and blemishes

immunomodulatory activities.

the best possible results. In

at some point during their

Lactoferrin helps to co-ordinate

addition to Praventin, the only

lifetime, Jules Birch — founder of

the body’s immune response

other ingredients that can be

Works with Water Nutraceuticals

through several mechanisms of

found in help: clear skin MEN are

— spotted a gap in the market

action. Its iron-binding property

aloe vera and oligofructose,

and formulated a health

prevents the growth of bacterial

known to nourish, heal and

supplement that works from

and viral micro-organisms and

detoxify the skin. Dr Sarah

the inside out and helps men to

tumours, which require iron

Brewer, GP and author, explains:

achieve radiant and blemish-

for their growth. In addition, it

“Taking a product that contains

free skin. Jules explains: “Acne

enhances the oxygenation of

milk protein offers a natural and

affects both sexes, but women

tissues while supporting white

effective approach to treatment

have always had the advantage

blood cell activity. Lactoferrin also

for those having to cope with

of being allowed to experiment

acts as an antioxidant to prevent

the emotional and physical

with different skincare products

free radical formation.

discomfort associated with

ingredient that helps to

as little as 6 weeks.

R

and makeup to reduce the

Research by DMV International

recurrent skin blemishes.

appearance of spots and

and the Department of

Sadly, drinking milk itself does

blemishes. Men, by contrast,

Dermatology, Venereology and

not work as milk contains

don’t always have that option,

Leprosy at the Dr RML Hospital

additional hormones that can

which can often cause them

in New Delhi (India) indicate

make acne worse.”

12

For more information

Jules Birch Founder Works with Water Nutraceuticals Tel. +44 1200 441 003 jules@workswithwater.co.uk www.workswithwater.co.uk

autumn 2011


Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0)62 83617 31

LIPerfection Absolute volume, luscious feel LIPerfection is a purified extract of organic yellow mustard sprouts, full of most valuable phytonutrients. Sinalbin, a pungent flavor compound is the major health promoting phytochemical in mustard sprouts. It is known to increase the capillary blood flow and to stimulate thereby volume and redness. Plump red lips provide a youthful healthy appearance. • Plumps and instantly hydrates lips • Reduces appearance of fine lines • Gives the lip area a fuller and firmer look

LIPerfection improves the look, the definition and the color of lips.

www.mibellebiochemistry.com


male grooming

Feeling good in your skin is essential for personal well-being — and this doesn’t just apply to women, but men too. Generally considered to be an important factor for personal happiness and social acceptance, the last few years have seen a rapid increase in the time and effort invested by men in a bid to look good and feel fresh. In line with this, the men’s grooming market has registered significant growth, with new skincare, hair care and bathing products being introduced alongside traditional products such as aftershave balms and deodorants. This development is most evident in Asia, where upcoming trends strongly influence men’s grooming habits. BASF keeps a keen eye on these market developments and has identified different types of Asian men, whose specific needs cause them to seek different personal care products. As such, tailored formulations and ingredients that provide end products with the properties demanded by these different groups of men are vital to successfully serving the market.

I

t is no longer just women

becoming more and more

they purchase, wishing them

for example, is an ultra light, quick

who have a daily skincare

beauty conscious. Rising

to be functional — and ideally

spreading emollient that leaves

routine that incorporates

incomes and the popularity of

multi-functional. Regardless of the

the skin feeling soft and ensures

a facial scrub, toner and

men’s fashion magazines are

skincare product purchased —

that the product does not have a

moisturizer in the morning

helping to fuel demand for

be it acne treatment, sun cream

sticky feel. A popular claim carried

and an antiageing cream at

convenient skincare products

or eye care product — Asian

by men’s facial care products

night; market research agency

that provide, to state just a

men want them to combine

in Asia is “masculine but mild,”

Euromonitor International has

few, antiageing, anti-fatigue,

different properties. This means

a response to the expectation

identified men’s grooming as one

moisturizing or nourishing

that in addition to high levels of

of a caring effect. The smooth

of the fastest growing areas in

properties and are tailored to

performance and convenience,

radiancer Cosmedia Gel CC

the personal care market, with

their individual needs. A rising

products should also feel ultra light

helps the product to fill the skin’s

sales predicted to exceed $39.1

number of Asian men are even

and non-greasy on the skin and

micro-relief with a homogeneous

billion in 2015. In Asia in particular,

discovering make up. As such,

are expected to soothe, refresh

film, smoothing the skin’s surface

the influence of Western lifestyle

male interest in grooming is no

and impart a cooling sensation

and stabilizing the emulsion by

trends has resulted in an increased

longer considered to be merely a

to the skin or provide protection

improving pigment distribution.

acceptance of male grooming,

sign of vanity — and this trend is set

against razor burn. Products

resulting in strong growth in the

to continue. For example, between

that offer additional functional

Men Care and So Does the Industry

men’s face care market — an

now and 2014 sales of men’s skin

properties such as whitening or

With an increasing number

important area for cosmetic

and beauty care products are

sun protection are particularly

Asian men taking an interest in

manufacturers. The strongest

predicted to grow five times faster

popular. In addition, more and

their appearance, the men’s

growth figures come from South

in China than in North America.

more men are opting for facial

cosmetic market is becoming

Korea, Japan and China, revealing

To assist its customers in supplying

cleansing products that offer a

an important growth segment

that men in these countries are

the market with tailored solutions,

high level of sebum control.

for cosmetic manufacturers across Asia. It is of paramount

BASF is monitoring the

importance to understand the

investigating the potential

High Performance Ingredients

challenges of the future,

Men’s grooming products are

the various requirements of

keeping up to date with

becoming more sophisticated

men’s skincare, and to offer

the specific demands of

than ever before, meaning that

concepts and formulations for a

consumers.

manufacturers must find suitable

more comprehensive grooming

ingredients for easy incorporation.

regime with sophisticated

A Love of Multi-Function

So, manufacturers need to find

skincare products. Solutions

suitable ingredients that can be

must be specially tailored to the

Although a change

easily incorporated into their

individual needs and preferences

is under way in men’s

products. When it comes to face

of the different types of modern

attitudes towards beauty,

care, Asian men are looking for

Asian man and can help

they still seek the same

products that absorb quickly and

manufacturers to successfully tap

attributes in products

feel light on the skin. Cetiol Sensoft,

into the market. PHM

current developments and

14

differences in skin structure and

autumn 2011


Every Man is Unique Just like women, men’s skin type and condition varies considerably, something that they are increasingly addressing in their search for a range of products — manufacturers wishing to offer the right solutions must be aware of what these differences are. To classify specific needs, BASF has divided Asian men into six consumer types, taking into account different characteristics and regional and cultural differences. The Care Chemicals unit has also used its expertise in formulation technology to develop ready-to-use formulations, ranging from aftershave balms, gels and whitening lotions to easy-to-apply daily facial care products that meet the precise needs of the six different consumer types. Many Asian men enjoy being outdoors, especially if the sun is shining, but their awareness of the harmful effects of UV rays does not always lead them to apply daily sun protection products, as they find most products currently available on the market too oily and sticky and wish to avoid the inconvenience of reapplication throughout the day. These men have been classified as ‘Sun Passionate Men’ and seek products that are non-greasy, offer both sun protection and nourishing properties and can be easily applied as a part of their daily regime. The Matt-Feel Portable Sun Balm for example, is ideal for men’s daily use as it leaves the skin feeling non-sticky and non-greasy, in addition to being easy to apply and portable as a result of its semi solid texture. The ‘Ice Cool Man’ is primarily concerned with practicality and does not wish to deal with unnecessary details; this type of Asian man is looking for simple yet effective products such as the Anti-Ageing Phytoceramide Water Essence, which offers a one step solution. Made using microfluidizer technology, this water emulsion contains botanical ceramides, strengthening the skin’s natural protective barrier and boosting hydration for skin that is smooth and well cared for. A main aim of the ‘Honey Sweet Man’ is to maintain a youthful appearance. Dermatologists agree that having an even skin tone can make someone look up to 10 years younger — to achieve this, the skin colour around the eyes should be the same as the rest of the face and not feature dark circles, which are caused by blood leaking from tiny capillaries beneath the skin. Anti-Dark Circle Eye Gels can help to keep the face’s skin tone looking bright and even, for a healthy, youthful appearance. The ‘Vampire Sexy Man’ likes his skin to be pale and therefore desires personal care products that offer skin whitening and lightening properties as well as protection against the sun. Properties such as these are offered by the Daily Whitening Lotion, which absorbs quickly and is non-sticky. Du shi yu nan is a Chinese term used to describe metro sexual men in western countries;’ the ‘Metro Sexual Man’ is fashion conscious and very sensitive about the condition of his skin. Although men’s skin is a little thicker and oilier than female skin — and therefore ages at a slightly slower rate — their faces are more susceptible to external stresses, including razor burn from daily shaving. As such, soothing aftershave products such as the After Shave Balm for Sensitive Skin are an essential daily product for this type of man. ‘Flower Romantic Men’ wish their skin to be soft and smooth and are concerned about their appearance but prefer to use a single product rather than lots of individual care products and cosmetics. Combining multiple benefits with convenience, the Moisture & Radiance BB Cream is ideal for this type of man. The all-inone tinted moisturizer helps them to achieve an even skin tone and leaves the skin looking smooth and radiant.

2011 autumn

For more information

Yeah-Young Baek Marketing Personal Care Europe BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH yeah-young.baek@basf.com www.basf.com

15


hair care

d e s U y l e d i W t s e o v i M t s c ’ A d l o r o o p W m e a h h T S f f u r d n Antida e late ped in th lo e v e d s an T) was ione (ZnP en used a e th b ri y s p a h c Zin nd bial and andruff a antimicro d n f a o t s n a e s 1940 e treatm ay, ent for th ears. Tod g y a 0 l 5 a n g a n antifu ore th opper) atitis for m rm e d c and c ic in e z h , rr o m b iu e s ds (sod ne is compoun er pyrithio p e p n o io c th s; ri n py O) plicatio oxide (TBT many ap n ti in l d ty u e s ib u are ent for tr replacem d e rr fe re the p ts. uling pain fo ti n a e n in mari

A

s a result of their

broad spectrum of antimicrobial efficacy and proven ability to

prevent the growth of a variety of micro-organisms, other pyrithione salts are used in the preservation of fluids, such as mildewcides in wallboards, as in-can and dry-film preservatives in architectural paints and for odour control in textiles. Many other unexploited uses — such as the control of malaria parasites, the treatment of nail fungus and athlete’s foot, hand sanitization, wood preservation, cancer treatment and so on — can only increase the potential of pyrithiones to protect materials and benefit mankind. ZnPT was patented for use as an antidandruff agent in 1966 and has become the most widely used agent around the globe, present in

16

autumn 2011


most antidandruff and beauty

Discovery of ZPT

shampoos; there are in excess

In 1940, White reported that

of 400 patents covering its use

a strain of Aspergillus flavus,

in antimicrobial applications

growing in a tryptone-salt

and more than 250 of these are

medium, produced a highly

in the treatment of dandruff.

bactericidal filtrate that was

Other actives are ketoconazole,

later identified as containing

climbazole, octopirox, selenium

an active ingredient with

sulfide, coal tar and ciclipirox.

hydroxamic acid functionality

There is an ongoing

Dandruff Myths

There are several myths that surround dandruff: • those suffering from the condition have poor personal hygiene • dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis are seasonal conditions • dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis treatments are susceptible to a rapid decrease in response following an initial benefit and thus require continued treatment • dandruff treatments cause loss of dye from colour-treated hair.

— later named aspergillic

technological evolution that

acid. Subsequent work

is improving the efficiency of

by several investigators

ZnPT in combating dandruff;

confirmed the structure of

Procter & Gamble’s Head and

aspergillic acid and many

Shoulders brand, the world’s

attempts (such as Dutcher

bestselling shampoo, contains

et al.) were successful in

potentiated ZnPT technology for

enhancing its production.

and zinc pyrithione (ZnPT) was

(recognized by USFDA as

greater antidandruff efficacy and

As the hydroxamic acid

found to be very efficacious as

Categor y I, GRAS and GRAE).

improved hair benefits and scalp

moiety was suspected to

an antifungal agent in treating

It is an off-white solid that is

health. The past few years have

be the functional group

the organism responsible

sparingly soluble in water (~10

seen the publication of several

responsible for the antibiotic

for dandruff. The Minimum

ppm) and has a MW of 317.7

reports indicating the formation of

activity of aspergillic acid,

Inhibitory Concentrations (MIC)

with a density of 1.8. Although

pyrithione compounds, including

and to act by chelating trace

versus Malassezia are around

ZnPT cr ystals can be made

ZnPT, in several plant species.

metals, it was thought that the

4–8 µg/mL. ZnPT (CAS Reg. No.

with various morphologies,

Considering their structural

replacement of an oxygen

13463-41-7, bis[1-hydroxy-2-(1H)-

the platelet form (Figure 2)

similarities with many naturally

atom with a sulfur atom would

pyridinethionato-O,S]-(T-4)-zinc),

is considered to be the most

formed hydroxamic acids, a

improve its activity. As such, a

is now the ‘gold standard’ in

effective as it can provide

situation in which pyrithione

pyrithione (PT) molecule with

antidandruff shampoos and

uniform coverage of the scalp

compounds are biosynthesized

a thiohydroxamic acid moiety

is used as the active in the

(with a high surface area

by plants as protective agents

was first synthesized in 1947 by

world’s leading products, such

per weight of the active).

to ward off fungal and bacterial

OLIN-Squibb chemists as a more

as Head & Shoulders, Clinic,

Formulation technologies

infections is not inconceivable.

potent antibiotic candidate.

Fructis, etc.

continue to improve, allowing

Arch Chemicals has secured

Although the pyrithione was

one of the plants purported

not found to be a stronger

industrially produced PT

deposition of the particles

to contain pyrithiones and

antibiotic than aspergillic acid,

antimicrobials have been

from shampoo matrix to scalp.

identified ZnPT (Figure 1) and

it was discovered to have a

successfully used by humans

The recent publication on the

other pyrithiones in the extracts

broad-spectrum antimicrobial

and for material preser vation

mode of action of ZnPT on

of Polyalthia nemoralis — a plant

effect against yeast, mould

for more than 50 years. ZnPT

yeast holds promise to even

that grows wild in certain regions

and bacteria. Various metal

is an OTC antidandruff agent

further enhance the efficacy

of China.

complexes were synthesized

that is both safe and effective

of this unique molecule.

Figure 1: Zinc pyrithione (ZnPT).

Topically applied,

the ever more efficient

What is Dandruff?

Dandruff is a common scalp condition that affects more than 50% of the global population, regardless of gender or ethnicity. Considered to be a social stigma by some cultures, dandruff is aesthetically displeasing and often causes scalp itching. Its treatment is big business — the global market for antidandruff (AD) shampoos, led by Procter & Gamble, is estimated to be worth $6 billion per annum and AD shampoo is sold at a premium to others. The off-white flakes are more visible on black hair — one in two shampoos sold in China and other parts of Asia are AD shampoos; Asia, in its entirety (China, Indonesia, India, the Philippines and Malaysia), accounts for approximately 40% of the global market. In many parts of the world, the antidandruff shampoo is positioned as a beauty shampoo, a trend that is spreading to developing countries and requires both efficacy and improved hair quality. The market is growing at a rate of double digits in BRIC countries (Brazil, Russia, India and China), with China and India showing most growth. Dandruff manifests itself as an excess shedding of the scalp’s epidermal cells, which causes flaking. The epidermal layer of the scalp consists of dead cells that protect the more fragile cells below — in dandruff, larger ‘scales’ are shed at an increased rate. For people with dandruff, skin cells may mature and be shed in 2–7 days, as opposed to around 30 days in people without. The result is that dead skin cells are shed in large, oily clumps, which appear as white or greyish patches on the scalp, hair, skin and clothes. Dandruff can be caused by several factors, one of which is dry skin — a common cause of itchy, flaking dandruff. Flakes from dry skin are generally smaller and less oily than those from other causes of dandruff. Irritated, oily skin (seborrheic dermatitis) is one of the most frequent causes and is marked by red, greasy skin covered with flaky white or yellow scales. Malassezia globosa and restricta (Figure 3) are the fungi most directly involved in the manifestation of dandruff. Malassezia organisms inhabit the scalp’s surface in most healthy adults without causing problems, living symbiotically with the human host. Malassezia enters the hair follicle in which its anaerobic metabolites increase the rate of epidermal cell division, causing sloughing and scaling. Sometimes it grows out of control, feeding on the oils secreted by hair follicles, which can irritate the skin on the scalp and cause more skin cells to grow. The extra skin cells die and fall off, clumping with oil from the hair and scalp, making them appear white and flaky in the hair or on clothes. Most often, this eruption is identical to or closely resembles seborrheic dermatitis. The scalp naturally produces oils called sebum that protect the hair and scalp, including triglycerides and fatty acids, which creates the ideal growing environment for Malassezia. The genome of M. globosa reveals that it is unable to make fatty acids, a key nutritional requirement of the organism, and instead obtains them from sebum. Individuals with an inborn tendency to have an inflammatory response (redness, itching) to fatty acids are prone to suffering from dandruff and dermatitis.

2011 autumn

17


hair care

The current research on ZnPT indicates that it can be formulated in antidandruff shampoos with enhanced bioavailability, mildness, aesthetics, delivery and retention Figure 4: Polyalthia nemoralis.

Figure 2: Malassezia fungus.

Figure 3: The platelet form of ZnPT.

dandruff skin are removed. In

and spoilage. The fact that it

addition, intercellular lipids that

has been used for more than

constitute a thick disorganized

50 years without any reports of

layer in dandruff skin become

adverse human reactions and

a thin organized layer. ZnPT has

without incidence of acquired

also been found to promote hair

antimicrobial resistance is

growth and may be beneficial

testament to the unique mode

in androgenic alopecia. It

of action and microbiological

reduces histamine levels (and

properties of this molecule.

thereby itching sensations)

Recent findings from DNA

and inflammation of the scalp,

microarrays, suggesting that

Antimicrobials from Plants

Polyalthia nonoralis A is used

works as a UVAB protectant and

ZnPT causes iron starvation to

to treat a variety of afflictions

provides antioxidant benefits

yeast organisms, can only help

It is recognized that plants

such as malaria, hepatitis,

as a result of the zinc it contains.

to enhance the recognized

produce more than 100,000

lymphadenitis, pneumonia and

Warren demonstrated that

efficacy of ZnPT even fur ther.

small molecules, most of which

syphilis. Samples of this plant

PTZ provides a supplementary

To conclude, ZnPT is a safe

have antimicrobial activity. This

were obtained and extracts of

benefit by reducing the

and effective ing redient

activity is often weak, many

the roots unequivocally display

surfactant induced expression

that provides a multitude

times less than that of the

the presence of ZnPT and other

of interleukin IL-1ι — surfactants,

of hai r and scalp benefits

antimicrobials produced by

pyrithione compounds as active

a principle component of all

in antidandr uff shampoos.

bacteria and fungi, but there

principles. Additional reports

cleansing products, are known

Fur ther more, the discover y

are some plants that produce

have indicated the presence

to cause irritancy, which can

of this molecule in several

antimicrobials at a high level

of pyrithione compounds in

exacerbate the dandruff

plant species allows ZnPT to

and offer protection to the

other species, namely drumstick

condition. The current

be synthetically produced

plant from pathogens.

onion (Allium stipitatum) and

research on ZnPT indicates

for the treatment of

a New Zealand mushroom

that it can be formulated in

dandr uff and other industr ial

ZnPT from Polyalthia nemoralis

(Basidomycetes).

antidandruff shampoos with

applications to be labelled

enhanced bioavailability,

as nature identical. PHM

Additional Benefits

mildness, aesthetics, delivery

There have been isolated

As well as being an effective

and retention.

reports from China during

and safe molecule for the

the past decade stating

treatment of dandruff-causing

Conclusions

that a plant used in herbal

micro-organisms, ZnPT also

ZnPT is an important molecule

medicine, which grows wildly

offers a multitude of benefits

for the treatment of many

in Guangdong and Hainan

to both scalp and hair. With

maladies and it is finding

province (Polyalthia nemoralis,

ZnPT treatments, the jagged

increasing use in the protection

Figure 4), contains significant

cell envelope in dandruff-

and preservation of a

amounts of pyrithione

affected skin becomes

range of materials against

A complete list of references to support this

compounds. In folk medicine,

smooth and lipids present in

antimicrobial deterioration

article is available from the author.

18

For more information

George Polson, PhD Director of Research and Innovation Arch Innovation and Technology Center gpolson@archchemicals.com www.archchemicals.com

autumn 2011


www.nutraceuticalmag.com

NUTRACEUTICAL

BUSINESS & TECHNOLOGY

Where food and pharma meet

NBT is your musT-read source of News, updaTes aNd developmeNTs iN The fuNcTioNal food, NuTraceuTical, dieTary supplemeNT aNd iNgredieNT iNdusTry. www.nutraceuticalmag.com Probiotics Restoring the balance Claims under pressure

cosmetic Focus Marketing products in Southern Africa

Volume 7 Number 2

March/April 2011

Functional bakery, sPorts nutrition, cognitive HealtH and more

Women’s HealtH EXCLUSIVE ROUNDTABLES Supplementing the fairer sex

ingredients • functional foods • nutraceuticals • supplements • raw materials •

EXCLUSIVE EVENT See website for details on Awards and Exclusive Business Roundtabe

www.nbtawards.com

EXCLUSIVE ROUNDTABLE


skincare

F

armers in many

modification, but do give breeders

developing countries

Naturally based cosmetics are currently the

are setting up fair

major growth area in the personal care

characteristics in a wider range

industry;

when looking for target traits such

trade cooperatives to better market

Organic

Monitor

recorded

that

the ability to seek specific of genetic material — important

their traditional oils, butters

global sales of organic and natural cosmetics

as elevated levels of beta glucan,

and botanical extracts, but the

reached $8.4 billion last year. The terms ‘natural,’

antioxidants or proteins useful for

agricultural crops of the modern Western world should not be

‘organic’ and ‘sustainable’ are much in

forgotten. Traceability, a proven

evidence in the media and major raw material

safety record, consistency of

cosmetics. This can lead to the development of specific varieties that are better suited to their

supply and well studied efficacy

exhibitions around the world are focussing

are just some of the reasons

heavily on this new and exciting movement.

conventional uses, for example

behind the rediscovery of these

Formulators and marketers alike are interested

high oil naked oats (Avena sativa,

ingredients. Oats (Avena sativa),

cosmetic applications than

sub nuda) for oil extraction. These

as a cereal crop grown in

in the possibilities that sustainable, renewable

varieties are grown using modern

countries such as Canada and in

materials can offer in the development of

production techniques — such

Europe, has been used as a case in point in this article. A cosmetic ingredient supplier marketing natural products from this type of source requires

new and interesting products; agricultural ingredients that are minimally processed by physical means, or chemically modified using

as precision drilling to ensure the correct number of seeds/m2 when planted — combined with nutrient applications that may be controlled within each field by

an extensive knowledge of

only ‘green’ processes, are what product

satellite mapping. Current varieties

crop production technology

developers require.

are much more disease resistant

and supply chain logistics, in

and modern combines are now

addition to the specific extraction

controlled by computer to cut the

process required to achieve the

crop as efficiently as possible while

target active. Once the correct

monitoring yield and quality. Many

molecule or, more likely, range of

companies contract growers to

molecules, has been extracted,

produce suitable crops. However,

it is then important to complete

as crop quality is dependent on

the necessary application assays

both land type and environmental

to prove its efficacy as a hair or

conditions, which alter on a

skin ingredient, together with the

seasonal basis, crops must be

required safety checks to ensure

grown in different locations and,

that it complies with current

if possible, different countries, to

legislation.

ensure the continuity of a quality

Major advances in genetic breeding that have occurred

raw material supply. Well known public concerns

in recent decades are the

surrounding the safety of

cornerstone of modern crop

food, in addition to the

production techniques in the

effect of agriculture on the

Western world. The genetic

environment, have led to the

map for many crops, including

imposition of legislative controls

oats, is at least partially known

on farmers; this has resulted

to the breeder, which allows for

in most European Countries

a more focussed breeding of

adopting schemes similar to

new varieties. None of these new

the Red Tractor Farm Assurance

breeding and crossing techniques

Combinable Crops & Sugar Beet

stray into the territory of genetic

Scheme, operating in the UK,

20

autumn 2011


which inspects and audits farms

centrifugation and tangential

to a known quality standard

membrane filtration.

addressing all aspects of crop production and storage.1 Crops

Oat Avenanthramides

grown for cosmetic use will also

Avenanthramides have been

be covered by this scheme,

shown to be the main group of

which provides a high degree

active oat antioxidants responsible

of traceability — back to the

for their anti-inflammatory,

production field — coupled with

anti-redness, anti-itch and anti-

a complete log of all activities

histamine properties.4, 5 They are

undertaken on that crop.

known to be effective at levels as

Companies will then test resultant

low as 5 ppm and are supplied

crops for quality and pesticide

as a glycerine based extract,

and heavy metal contamination.

suited to a wide variety of product

In the case of organic crops, the

ranges such as skin, hair and sun

producer must be registered in the

care as well as for baby products.

UK with licensed certifiers, such as

The ingredient is completely water

the Soil Association or the Organic

soluble and stable through pH 5–8,

Food Federation, who will conduct

making it ideal for water based

their own inspections to ensure

emulsions, creams, lotions and

that the organic standards are

detergent based systems.

maintained. However, for a number of reasons it will be very difficult

Oat Peptides

for some cosmetic ingredients to

Oat Peptides have outstanding

comply with these standards.

emulsifying and water binding

First, as organic crops tend to be

capacities and are another

of higher cost (mainly owing to their

active supplied as a water-

lower yield), the resultant extracted

based extract.6 They are small

active may be too expensive, or the

enough to be assimilated for effective interaction with key skin

limited number of production sites may not produce crops with the

requires careful planning and

Oat Oil

components, generating some

correct amount of active to process.

maximizing its efficiency and

Oat oil contains very high levels

impressive stimulating results

The type of extraction process and

effectiveness is a significant

of important natural antioxidants,

with fibroblast cells — this makes

the quantity of active extracted

challenge. Oat Cosmetics

as well as effective emulsifiers.2, 3 It

them an excellent alternative to

— approximately 200 ppm in the

scans a large number of oat

is also rich in essential fatty acids

synthetic peptides, offering good

case of oat avenanthramides —

crops in Europe to identify those

such as oleic and linoleic acid.

activity for antiageing skin care

may prevent its certification as

that are high in oil (genetically

The oil provides excellent softening

formulations at low cost.7

an extracted organic product. As

rather than environmentally

and smoothing actives for skin

an alternative, certification as a

controlled), protein

cosmetics, is ECOCERT certified

and carbohydrates and other

‘natural’ molecule under schemes

(environmentally controlled),

and particularly suited to creams,

undesirable naturally occurring

such as Ecocert, which will be

and avenanthramides, (thought

lotions and oil based formulations.

compounds removed, oat

harmonized under COSMOS by

to be both genetically and

2014, offer an alternative means

environmentally controlled), to

that remains after the oil’s

to hydrolysed proteins, such as

of providing assurance that the

find a suitable source material.

extraction may be shipped to

wheat, which are often more

production and processing of the

These crops are cleaned and

Oat Cosmetics’ partners, Ceapro

highly coloured, viscous and

certified active meets the agreed

pre-processed, before having

Inc. in Canada for the extraction

odourous . They also exhibit

natural and environmental criteria

their oil extracted by either

of the avenanthramides or oat

excellent foaming properties,

established by the schemes.

super-critical CO2 or an ethanolic

proteins, using technologies such

making them a useful addition

extraction (in which the ethanol

as aqueous alcohol extraction,

to shampoos, shower gels and

is derived from wood).

mechanical separation,

other surfactant based products.

The extraction of natural actives from a base crop

2011 autumn

The resultant defatted matrix

As the extract is highly purified

peptides are a useful alternative

21


skincare References

Alternatively, the defatted matrix

It can be utilized in surfactant

compared with hyaluronic acid.13

can be used to produce colloidal

based systems to provide very fine

Beta glucan can even be used

oatmeal and superfine oat flour.

exfoliating and skin buffing.

to form thin, water soluble films to

Colloidal Oatmeal

Superfine Oat Flour

active agents requiring enhanced

Probably the best known oat

Superfine oat flour offers a number

percutaneous transportation.

material, colloidal oatmeal is

of advantages when compared

defined by the United States

with other cereal flours and

completed a major report on

Pharmacopeial Convention

starches. Its starch granules are

the ‘naturalness’ of the product

and provides anti-inflammatory,

naturally extremely small, in the

formulations of a wide range of

anti-itch, antioxidant and

range of 2–11 μm, which creates

brands worldwide that market

protective properties that make

a smooth and silky feel on the

their products on a natural or

it a versatile cleanser, moisturizer

skin and has less tendency to

organic platform.14 It became

and buffer to soothe and protect

be opaque than other cereal

clear that some brands have

damaged skin.8 In 2003 colloidal

powders. Providing excellent

much work to do before they

oatmeal was recognized as a skin

absorptive properties, which could

achieve the levels of natural

protectant for the relief of a variety

contribute to the overall luminosity

content demanded by standards

of dermatoses by the FDA.9

of the skin, it is an effective material

agencies such as Ecocert,

in soft powder formulations as well

Greenlife or NaTrue to meet

as creams and lotions.

certification criteria. With a new

deliver the sustained release of

Its unique activity results from the complex composition of beta glucans (moisturizers and immuno-

It is inevitable that the

Organic Monitor recently

International Organization for

stimulants), avenanthramides

production of some ingredients

Standardization (ISO) standard

(anti-irritants), phenolics (UV

does not allow so complete

for natural and organic

absorbers) and saponins

a utilization of the total crop.

ingredients and products also

(cleansing agents). Colloidal

Oat beta glucan is such an

in preparation, the potential

oatmeal also demonstrates

example; the raw material

need for reformulation of many

excellent skin buffering properties

requires elevated levels of natural

current ‘natural’ products is

owing to its high protein content.10

beta glucan and the extraction

increasing.15 As a result, active, well

process involves the denaturing of

characterized, Ecocert certified

the other active molecules.

natural ingredients — such as those

Unlike conventional colloidal oatmeals, the Oat Cosmetics patent-applied-for process

offered by Oat Cosmetics and its

solubilizes the oat kernel to

Oat Beta Glucan

partners — will form a key part of

produce completely natural

Oat beta glucan is very different

any natural formulator’s palette.

oatmeal, without the requirement

in size and structure to yeast beta

to process the oats extensively.

glucan, causing it to be naturally

in some cases patent pending,

This allows the important active

water soluble and exhibit immuno-

raw materials can be used

phytochemicals, such as beta

stimulant properties. Relevant

to produce a wide range of

glucan, to become more

to personal care products, beta

products. The ingredients

bioavailable, thus increasing

glucan boasts the ability to

provide formulators with

their effectiveness.11 Colloidal

induce cellular activities that

the opportunity to replace

Oatmeal can be easily

lead to the restructuring of skin,

synthetic, petrochemically

incorporated into emulsions as a

resulting in a reduction of fine lines

derived ingredients and

skin feel ingredient and the oat

and wrinkles.12 It has also been

produce natural products with

actives it contains can also supply

shown to provide better short and

the same — and potentially

excellent anti irritant functionality.

long term hydration of the skin

better — functionality. PHM

22

These scientifically studied, and

1. www.redtractor.org.uk 2. Dr M. Cetin, et al., “Antioxidant Effects of Oat Oil and its Fractions,” Lipid/Fett 92(8), 319–321 (1990). 3. B.J. Dull, “Oat Oil for Personal-Care, Products,” Cosmetics and Toiletries, 112(1), 77–81 (1997). 4. R. Sur, et al., “Avenanthramides, Polyphenols from Oats that Exhibit Anti-Inflammation and Anti-Itch Activity” Arch Dermatol Res 300, 569–574 (2008). 5. G  . Schmaus, et al., “Oat Avenanthramides – New Actives to Reduce Itch Sensation in Skin,” Proceedings of the 23rd IFSCC International Congress Poster I95 (2004). 6. F. Gafner, et al., “Oat-Based Complex Stimulates Skin Barrier Protein Synthesis and Reducing Skin Aging,” IFSCC Magazine, 11(3), 217–23 (2008). 7. “Oat Peptides: Rejuvenating Collagen Producing Cells Naturally,” Next Step Laboratories, http:// www.nextsteplab.com/images/ Oat_Peptides_Brochure.pdf. 8. U  nited States Pharmacopeial Convention Monographs, “Colloidal Oatmeal,” USP32-NF27, 2024. 9. “ Skin Protectant Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use: Final Monograph,” 68FR33362 (2003). 10. E.S. Kurtz, et al., “Colloidal Oatmeal: History, Chemistry and Clinical Properties,” J Drugs Dermatol. 6(2), 167–170 (2007). 11. F innish Patent Application No. 20115758. 12. R  . Pillai et al., “Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucan,” IFSCC Magazine 1, (2005). 13. R  . Pillai, et al “1-3 1-4-Beta-Glucan with Excellent Moisturising and AntiAging Properties,” Symrise (2004). 14. Organic Monitor Ltd, “Natural and Organic Cosmetics Brand Assessment 2011,” www.organicmonitor.com. 15. ISO/NP 16128 Cosmetics — Technical Definitions and Criteria for ‘Natural’ and ‘Organic’ Ingredients and Products — Under Development, http://www.iso.org/iso/iso_catalogue/ catalogue_tc/catalogue_detail. htm?csnumber=55725.

For more information Angus Robertson Oat Cosmetics Tel. +44 7713 077 646 ar@oat.co.uk www.oat.co.uk

autumn 2011


A Stroke of Genius Two days of technical seminars and presentations, plus the largest exhibition of its kind in the UK. A chance to brush up on your knowledge, immerse yourself in innovation, find inspiration, consider market trends, solve answers to technical challenges and discover new ways to enhance your competitive edge. For complete coverage, register online NOW at www.scsformulate.co.uk SCS Formulate – for everything you need to know…and more.

15–16 November 2011

Ricoh Arena, Coventry


advertorial

A Friend to Skin and Environment Growing environmental awareness among consumers has led to strong demand for personal care products that are simultaneously safe for the environment and beneficial for the user — in other words, mild to both skin and nature. This trend is reflected by a steadily increasing number of raw materials made from sustainably derived vegetable sources, a trend addressed by Cremer Care’s offering of vegetable-derived personal care ingredients. This has recently been built on by the launch of a completely new range of esters based on vegetable-derived fatty acids, reacted with alcoholic components (also sourced from vegetable origin) such as glycerol, polyglycerol and 1,3-propanediol. These products act as emollients, emulsifiers, moisturizers or solubilizers. Many Cremer Care products are certified by ECOCERT Greenlife as organic raw materials derived from sustainable agriculture; examples include organic glycerol, organic MCTs and a range of organic oil components. A surfactant range based on organic fatty acids is also in development in response to customer demand for organic surfactants that meet the criteria for certification as organic raw materials. CremerCOOR PG4 cocoate organic is the first nonionic surfactant made from Cremer Care organic C12-C18 fatty acid (92% organic content as certified by ECOCERT Greenlife). It is produced by esterification with polyglycerol-4 that is derived by oligomerization from vegetable glycerin. 100% of the ingredients are of natural origin, based on vegetable raw materials, and 38% are the result of organic farming. The product acts as a co-surfactant, offering moisturizing, conditioning/refatting, foam enhancing and solubilizing benefits in combination with any other anionic, nonionic or cationic surfactant. It is also possible to incorporate it in a range of liquid personal care products, such as shower gels and shampoos, to improve sensation on skin, mildness and foam characteristics, and to ease the formulation of hydrophobic ingredients, including fragrances or oil components. In addition, it mitigates the known disadvantages of soap — sensibility towards water hardness, an unpleasant skin feeling and the deposition of insoluble calcium soaps. A very simple formulation — for example, 30% Cremersap LS 30 (a 30% active liquid potassium soap based on organic fatty acids) plus 10% CremerCOOR PG4 cocoate organic — yields a mild hand soap with a creamy lather and pleasant skin after feel. The blend may be utilized as a low viscosity product in a foam dispenser or thickened with any conventional viscosity enhancer as desired.

For more information Odile Grahl, Marketing Manager, Cremer Care Tel. +49 4032 011 245 — o.grahl@cremer-gruppe.com — www.cremer-care.de

24


skincare

Avena sativa — more commonly known as oats — have formed a staple part of the human diet for many hundreds of years. Widely recognized as one of the healthiest grains, a bowl of porridge oats for breakfast provides a simple yet satisfying and nutrient packed way to start the day. For many years, oats were considered to be rather dull and old fashioned, but they have recently undergone a remarkable image transformation and porridge is now a firm favourite on the breakfast menus of a range global restaurant giants, from McDonald’s to Starbucks.

M

uch of this

technological advances that

grown by local farmers, it is

surge in

have occurred since then, it is

produced using a patented,

popularity

no longer necessary to bathe

chemical free technology to

is owed to

in oats! Oat beta glucan has

separate the beta glucan from

the positive

now been identified as the oat’s

the other components of the oat.

consumer perception of the

‘magic’ component, responsible

health benefits of oats; lower

for the soothing, anti-irritant,

production methods such

cholesterol, heart health and

moisturizing and rejuvenating

as these should not be

steady, sustained energy release

qualities that are associated

underestimated; other, previous

being just three that are well

with the use of oats in skincare.

attempts to isolate oat beta

understood. Furthermore, the

Even more exciting is recent

glucan have relied on the use

associated health message is

research showing that oat beta

of harsh chemicals — hardly

evolving from “oats are good for

glucan molecules are able to

what consumers seek in a

you” to “the soluble fibre in oats

penetrate to the deepest levels

product that purports to be

is good for you.”

of the skin, where they interact

‘natural.’ In contrast, Avenacare

with cells to stimulate the

is naturally separated from the

polysaccharide known as beta (β)

synthesis of collagen. This results

oat bran without the use of

glucan, found in oat bran.

in an antiageing effect with a

chemicals, resulting in a pure,

Numerous research studies have

noticeable reduction in fine lines

unadulterated ingredient that

demonstrated its efficacy and it

and wrinkles, in addition to an

can truly claim to be green and

is approved by regulatory health

acceleration of the healing of

environmentally friendly.

bodies around the world, such

wounds and burns.

This soluble fibre is a

as the FDA and EFSA, for health

Cosmetics and personal care companies are now able to

claims relating to cholesterol

a Swedish company specializing

develop a broad spectrum of

reduction and heart health. The

in the fractionation of cereal

oat based products, ranging

combination of substantiated

grains, launched Avenacare, a

from antiageing creams to

health benefits and natural

liquid form of oat beta glucan.

lotions that soothe skin irritations.

credentials has proven to be

An exciting development for the

If used in conjunction with foods

very powerful and it is no surprise

personal care and cosmetics

that contain oat beta glucan, it

that the popularity of oats is now

sectors, it provides formulators

won’t be long before we’re all

crossing over into the cosmetics

with an affordable and easy to

looking healthier on the inside

and personal care space.

use form of oat beta glucan,

and outside! PHM

The use of oats to benefit the

26

Earlier this year, Biovelop AB,

The importance of natural

opening up what had previously

body’s exterior as well as its

been a niche and prohibitively

inside is not a new phenomenon

expensive ingredient to a much

— there is evidence to suggest

wider market. In addition, the

that oats have been used in

product addressed current

skincare for more than 4000

trends and consumer demand

years; some time before they

for natural products with

became known as a food.

substantiated benefits. Derived

Luckily, thanks to the exciting

from non-GMO, Swedish oats

For more information

David Peters Director of Sales and Marketing Biovelop AB Tel. +46 11 253 632 dp@biovelop.com www.biovelop.com

autumn 2011


210x149_PURE_Health.indd 1

LAUNCH EVENT

25.02.11 14:4

18th April BArcelonA

2011 autumn

27


skincare

It is important that the growth in popularity of dermocosmetics — defined in 2005 as cosmetic applications that cover both dermatological and pharmaceutical aspects — is accompanied by an awareness of their intended function: to address the concerns of atopic and sensitive skin. Although pathological skin diseases must be treated by a physician, cosmetics companies do have options available when it comes to creating products for the sensitive skin market. One such possibility is the use of natural, naturally derived or nature-identical active ingredients that actually support the regeneration of atopic and sensitive skin and improve its overall wellbeing. The use of these active ingredients enables dermocosmetics to unite the very real need to take care of sensitive skin with the current consumer desire for ‘natural skincare.’ This article explores a selection of conditions and demonstrates the role that dermocosmetics can play in addressing them.

W

support, protection from harmful

reaction and a decreased skin

Common Ground in Sensitive Skin: Dryness

Despite the

barrier function.2, 3 However, not

As a rule, atopic and sensitive skin

study even demonstrates that

American

all ingredients on the market are

that requires extra regenerative

moisture provided by RonaCare

Academy of Dermatology’s

equally as effective at treating

support is always dry. Other

Ectoin is accumulated and still

statement that it affects millions

each symptom. Moreover,

disorders, such as diabetes, can

detectable in the skin seven days

of people, the definition varies

manufacturers cannot make

also dry skin and cause it to wrinkle

after application.

depending on who is asked, with

specific drug claims for treating

more quickly. Any dermocosmetic

some reports claiming that as

specific conditions; claims used

product made for a specific

Diabetic Skin

many as 30–50% of women suffer

in cosmetic products designed

condition should therefore

Diabetes is often linked to a

from it. What we do know is that

for dermocosmetics are restricted

make moisturizing a top priority.

higher risk of skin infections,

there are four distinct types of

to ‘cleansing,’ ‘soothing’ and

RonaCare Ectoin from Merck

increased skin dryness and a

sensitive skin — acne, rosacea,

‘moisturizing’ — which is why

overcomes this ‘extra moisture’

specific skin ageing scenario.4

burning and stinging, and contact

we see ‘sensitive skin’ used as a

challenge with ease; not only

Dermocosmetics designed for

dermatitis (which covers allergies

generic description. In fact, this

does it maintain and trap the skin’s

diabetics can, through the use of

and irritants) — all of which share

term also applies to skin conditions

natural moisture, it is one of the best

antioxidants, strengthen the skin

the characteristic of inflammation.1

such as psoriasis and diabetic skin

ways to stimulate cells’ protective

barrier function and maintain

Atopic skin demonstrates a high

(skin complaints linked to diabetes).

properties, such as immune system

skin elasticity, which also helps to

28

hat precisely

neuro-sensoric component,

is sensitive

an increased immunological

skin?

radiation and mitochondrial DNA safeguards. In fact, one

autumn 2011


delay the skin ageing process. RonaCare

The term ‘dermocosmetics’ is now likely

Isoquercetin, a natural bioflavonoid from

to function as an adverb accompanying a

Merck, prevents collagen fibres from

brand name and several organizations (such

bonding and protects skin lipids from

as Pierre Fabre and its brand Avene) choose

oxidation. It also stops protein glycation,

to describe themselves as dermocosmetic

a process that produces compounds in

companies. Such companies, labelling their

the skin to accelerate wrinkle formation.

ranges as advanced product lines, offer dermocosmetic skincare that soothes and

Rosacea

protects sensitive skin. Generally speaking,

Although a chronic skin disorder,

sensitive skin requires special care and

rosacea can be triggered by

pampering. Formulators will find what

multiple, individual factors as diverse

they are looking for in Merck’s portfolio of

as UV radiation and spicy food. Its

cosmetic ingredients, several of which are

manifestation is often increased skin

a natural and safe way to create innovative

redness, mainly around the cheeks and

products that care for sensitive skin and

nose, as well as burst blood vessels in the

restore its natural, beautiful appearance. PHM

face.5, 6 Dermocosmetics can help by keeping skin irritation to a minimum and boosting microcirculation. RonaCare Troxerutin, a lower strength antioxidant, is a natural bioflavonoid that partly inhibits mediators of inflammation from forming while inhibiting lipoxygenase — an enzyme involved in allergic and inflammatory diseases — producing a soothing effect on sensitive skin. Other natural ingredients known to offer relief for rosacea include chamomile and green tea extract.

Psoriasis An inherited and inflammatory skin disease, psoriasis develops when skin cells grow too rapidly, causing skin to become red and often flake. In this case, the right dermocosmetic products will minimize flaking and inflammation while delivering added moisture.7, 8 RonaCare Tiliroside, another natural bioflavonoid can help to restore the natural balance of skin. This substance boasts some powerful anti-inflammatory properties — it prevents skin overreactions, reduces visible redness caused by UV radiation and inhibits histamine release.

Acne One of the myths surrounding acne has

References

1. http://www.aad.org/ media-resources/stats-and-facts/ prevention-and-care/sensitive-skin 2. Z.D. Draelos, “Cosmetic Selection in the Sensitive-Skin Patient,” Dermatologic Therapy 14(3), 194–199 (2001). 3. Z.D. Draelos, Cosmetic Dermatology: Products & Procedures, Wiley-Blackwell (2010). 4. http://www.abbott-diabetes-care.de/ diabetes.html 5. J. Bikowski, “Rosacea Regimens,” in Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures, Ed Z. D. Draelos, WileyBlackwell (2010). 6. http://rosacea.dermis.net/ content/e01geninfo/e02pathogenesis/ index_ger.html 7. http://www.psoriasis-bund.de/ ueber-psoriasis/ 8. S.R. Feldman, et al. “Psoriasis Regimens,” in Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures, Ed Z. D. Draelos, Wiley-Blackwell (2010). 9. E.M. Graber, et al. “Over-the-Counter Acne Treatments,” in Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures, Ed Z. D. Draelos, Wiley-Blackwell (2010). 10. http://www.acne.com/ 11. http://altmedicine.about.com/od/ teatreeoil/a/teatreeoilacne.htm

finally been put to rest: it is not caused by fatty or sweet foods, but by oily skin and high levels of bacteria.9, 10 There are various dermocosmetics for the treatment of acne already on the market. Many, however, contain man made active ingredients such as antibiotics and retinoids. Natural ingredients must be used with care; tea tree oil, for example, can provide effective relief for acne, but coconut oil and avocado can exacerbate it.11

2011 autumn

For more information Dr Lilia Heider Global Technical Services Manager Cosmetic Actives and Pigments Merck KGaA Frankfurterstr. 250 64293 Darmstadt Germany Tel: +49 6151 729 316 lilia.heider@merckgroup.com www.merckgroup.com

Go east. Meet us at in-cosmetics Asia, Bangkok, E50 November 2-4, 2011


formulation and innovation

Holy Grail or Marketing Buzzword? In today’s competitive market, making claims for a product as cutting-edge not only demands pleasant textures, an elegant feel and innovative branding but, above all, effectiveness. In its search for the ‘Holy Grail’ ingredient, the cosmetic industry has always benefited from a clear input from other fields, such as nutrition and pharmaceuticals. Recent progress in understanding skin physiology and biochemistry, as well as the advantages offered by novel technologies, synthetic chemistry and biotechnology, has resulted in the introduction of one of the most significant and innovative groups of bioactive ingredients — peptides — to the industry.

T

he in-vitro benefits of

amino acids. If the amino acids

Signal Peptides

factors, transmembrane, matrix

applying peptides

number less than 50 the molecules

Signal peptides (also known as

and heat shock proteins.

to the skin were

are named peptides — larger

transit peptides) are usually formed

discovered during

sequences are referred to as

of short chain amino acids and

Carrier Peptides

wound healing

proteins. In a peptide molecule,

play the role of directing a protein

The name ‘carrier peptides’ refers

research, in which the compounds

the amino acids are coupled

to its site of action; they can

to those peptides that act as

demonstrated beneficial effects

by a peptide bond, in which the

increase elastin, proteoglycan,

facilitators in the transportation

on skin components, particularly

nitrogen atom of one amino

glycosaminoglycans and

of important substances, such

collagens and fibroblasts. The

acid binds to the carboxyl

fibronectin proliferation. Increasing

as trace elements (Cu and Mn),

commercial potential of exploiting

carbon atom of another. Amino

matrix cell activities — and

to the skin and are recognized

the enhanced biological activity

acids — the building block for

consequently collagen production

as necessary factors for wound

of such compounds within the

peptides and proteins — are small

— results in the skin appearing

healing and enzymatic

cosmetic industry was soon

molecules composed of an amine

firmer and younger. This group

processes. Examples include short

realized and numerous products

group (NH3), a carboxylic acid

includes ‘penta-peptides,’ widely

arginine-rich intracellular delivery

with the aim of improving the

(CooH) group and a variable

promoted for topical applications,

peptides that facilitate the

condition of ageing skin were

side chain (R) (Figure 1). There are

which are formed of five amino

transport of various proteins into

launched. This short review will

20 common amino acids that make

acids. Their short amino acid

living cells. Investigation suggests

focus on clarifying the definition

up almost all proteins and peptides.

sequence — lysine–threonine–

that such peptides could serve

Peptides have an advantage

threonine–lysine–serine — is a

as carriers in topical and/or

of peptides, categorizing their indications in cosmetics based on

over proteins in that their

sub-fragment of type I collagen

transdermal drug delivery and

their mechanism of actions and

mechanism of action inhibits

propeptide and possesses

stimulate the protein penetration

the challenges that may impede

or stimulates specific receptors.

the ability to enhance dermal

even without fusion between

their efficacy.

When tracing their applications in

remodelling by triggering cellular

carrier peptide and protein.

cosmetics, it is helpful to categorize

processes, such as the inhibition

What is a Peptide?

them in five major groups: signal

of the activity of collagenases

The terms peptides, amino acids

peptides, enzyme inhibitors

and the increase of extracellular

Neurotransmitter Inhibitor PeptideS

and proteins are, confusingly,

peptides, neurotransmitter

matrix production (such claims are

Neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides

frequently used alongside and in

peptides, antioxidant peptides

supported by an in-vitro study).

inhibit the release of acetylcholine

place of each other; it is helpful,

and carrier peptides.

Another example of this group

at the neuromuscular junction

therefore, to clearly define them.

is valine-glycine-valine-alanin-

and have curare-like effect.

A peptide (from the Greek word

proline-glycerin, which down-

There are seven types (A–G)

‘digested’) is a molecule formed

regulates elastin expression and

of botulinum toxin that target

by the joining of two or more

promotes the chemotaxis of

peripheral cholinergic neurons

fibroblast in vitro. An alternative

and cause differing durations of

peptide, tyrosine-tyrosine-arginine-

neuromuscular paralysis. Type A

alanine-aspartame-aspartame-

toxin proteolytically degrades the

alanine inhibits procollagen

SNAP-25 protein, which is required

C proteinase (an enzyme that

for the release of neurotransmitters

cleaves C-propeptides from

from the axon endings. Botulinum

procollagen-1) and thereby

toxins specifically cleave these

decreases collagen breakdown.

SNAREs, preventing neurosecretory

Peptamide-6, a firming peptide

vesicles from docking or fusing

that is biotechnologically derived

with the nerve synapse plasma

from saccharomyces yeast

membrane and releasing

fermentation, increases collagen

their neurotransmitters. An

synthesis and up-regulates growth

example of this group is Acetyl

30

autumn 2011


Figure 1: Basic structure of an amino acid.

Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides

partition coefficient octanol/water

well designed in-vivo studies with

peptide with significantly less

between 1 and 3, reasonable

adequate sample sizes. To reach

toxicity (2000 mg/kg) than BTX-A

Enzyme inhibitor peptides are

aqueous solubility (>1 mg mL) and

real conclusions about their

(20 ng/kg). Pentapeptide-18

those that directly or indirectly

no or few polar centres.

efficacy and evaluate their safety

(Leuphasyl) mimics the natural

inhibit or decrease enzyme

The large number of amine

profile randomized, double-blind,

mechanism of enkephalins

activity. Naturally extracted

bonds present as hydrogen bond

active-controlled large trials with

and as a result inhibits neuronal

soybean protein, which inhibits

donor and acceptor groups

statistically meaningful sample sizes

activity and catecholamine

the formation of secondary

in peptides, in addition to their

are needed.

release. Pentapeptide-3 (Vialox),

proteinases that may induce

large molecular size, causes them

a synthetic peptide that is a

skin inflammatory reactions

to exhibit low diffusivity in skin.

that products are formulated

competitive antagonist at the

and damage the skin barrier, is

Furthermore, as they are often

to be economically viable as

acetylcholine receptors, safely

frequently used in cosmetics. Rice

charged at physiological pH, they

well as effective. Peptides of

blocks the sodium ion release

peptidesis, another natural protein,

are intrinsically hydrophilic; as such

defined sequence and high purity

at the synaptic membrane on

inhibits matrix metalloproteinase

the lipophilic stratum corneum

(90%) are usually expensive to

muscles so that they cannot

activity and induces the expression

can be a significant barrier to

produce; those used in cosmetics

contract as frequently.

of the hyaluronan synthase 2

penetration. To tackle this issue

are commonly manufactured

gene in keratinocytes, which may

and increase their lipophilicity,

synthetically by sequencing

Antioxidant Peptides

result in moisturizing properties.

many peptides are coupled with

individual amino acids as building

Evidence gained through

An additional example is an

fatty acid groups. For example, a

blocks. However, the employment

advances in peptide research

Angiotensin Converting Enzyme

palmitoyl derivative demonstrated

of biotechnology methods such as

indicates that many endogenous

(ACE) Inhibitor, derived from egg

penetration across human skin that

fermentation can allow peptides

peptides work to stabilize radicals

white, which has exhibited high

was five to six fold greater than that

to be extracted from some protein

and neutralize other non-radical

radical scavenging properties.

of the simple peptide. Nevertheless,

hydrolysates, particularly from

there is much room for improvement

natural sources. The extremely high

hexapeptide-3, a synthetic

oxidizing species. Glutathione

Although the efficacy of

Last but not least, it is crucial

(γ-glutamyl-cysteyl-glycine), a

cosmeceutical peptides may not

in the permeability coefficient of

potency of the peptides (p.p.m

tripeptide GSH — one of the first

be as rigorously tested as those

major cosmeceutical peptides —

level) produced in this manner

peptides to be discovered —

used in drugs, the evidence to

this must be addressed by further

may well compensate for the

may be classified as part of this

support their use in cosmetics is

research.

associated costs and facilitates

group. The level of glutathione

growing. The incorporation of

concentration in the body

peptides in cosmetic products,

limited chemical stability and their

considerably decreases with age,

however, can be challenging;

structure may change as a result of

triggering an increase in free

skin penetration, stability, toxicity,

a vehicle’s pH. When incorporating

formulation challenges, peptides

radical damage. Another recent

analysis and cost can all be

a peptide into a conventional

have become popular, widely

source of antioxidant peptides

obstacles. For a topical product to

cosmetics product, hydrolysis and

used active ingredients, particularly

to be discovered is based on

be efficient it is imperative that the

structural changes are probable

in high end market products, and

hydrolysing gelatine; peptides

right concentration of the active

outcomes, the longer peptides

are deserving of further research

derived from tryptic hydrolysate

is delivered to the appropriate

demonstrating the most fragile

to dispel the ambiguities in their

of jumbo squid (Dosidicus gigas)

site of action. Furthermore, the

structures. Although the choice of

cosmeceutical applications. PHM

skin gelatine, for example, were

permeation ability of an active

excipients and stabilizers can help to

assessed in different invitro

depends a variety of factors, such

overcome this obstacle, the question

assay systems to establish their

as its physicochemical properties,

of peptide stability in a final product

antioxidant properties. The

molecular size, stability, binding

should be addressed and analysed

hydrolysate itself exhibited a strong

affinity, solubility and partition

by validated analytical methods.

lipid peroxidation inhibition that

coefficient. The ideal conditions

was much higher than that of the

are a molecular weight of less

frequently used in antiageing

natural antioxidant, α-tocopherol.

than 500 Da, a moderate log of

products, some do not have any

2011 autumn

Unfortunately, peptides have

Although topical peptides are

their employment, in efficient levels, in all types of skincare formulas. In conclusion, despite

For more information

Dr Mojgan Moddaresi m.moddaresi@gmail.com A full list of references and suggested further reading are available from the author.

31


regional report

BEAUTY and When data from the Chamber of Latin American Cosmetics (CASIC) revealed that 2010’s beauty product sales in Latin America totalled $54 billion and accounted for a 15.3% share of the global market, it was interpreted by many as a sign that the region is building momentum to dominate the global beauty market. The most recent global economic instability resulted in only a slight drop in consumer demand, which now continues to surge dramatically. However, although it is true that Latin America is the region that has made, and will continue to make, the most considerable contribution to the growth of the global cosmetic and toiletries market, it is unlikely to dominate the global beauty market in the near future.

I

t is also true that the

declined. After experiencing a 0.8% decline in 2009, sales of

Brazil Market Assessment

Unstoppable: Natura

market leaders in the cosmetics and toiletries

cosmetics and toiletries in the US

With its political stability, consumer

sales company that develops,

sector — Japan and the

finally rebounded by 2.4%, which,

demand, economic development

manufactures and distributes

United States — show

according to Kline’s Cosmetics

and increasing disposable income,

cosmetics, fragrances and toiletries

very little market growth, in

and Toiletries 2010 report,

in addition to a growing workforce

and is recognized as the leader in

the range of 1–2%, owing to

brought sales slightly above

size and a high incidence of women

the sustainable utilization of Brazil’s

the maturity of their markets

prerecession levels to reach

in the total labour force, Brazil stands

native biodiversity in its products.

and the negative impact

$36.5 billion in 2010. The same

out among global economies.

The company has operations in

of the economic crisis. This

report projects that dollar sales

The largest segment in the Brazilian

Argentina, Chile, Peru, Mexico and

is in comparison with Latin

will increase at a compound

cosmetics market is hair care,

Colombia, although 95% of its net

America’s 10% growth in 2010.

annual growth rate of 2.9%,

responsible for 31% of total market

sales are generated in Brazil,

These estimates would have

predicting that the US market will

sales, followed by deodorants/

and registered net revenues of

been even higher if projected in

exceed $42 billion by 2015. The

antiperspirants at 19.5%, skincare

$5.1 billion in 2010. Its distribution

local currency, as the dollar has

Chinese market, which aims to

at 17.5%, fragrances at 16.0%, oral

occurs primarily by means of a

lost much of its value. In terms

be a strong industry contestant

care at 8.5% and makeup at 8.0%.

single tier system of direct sales;

of regional comparison, the size

and reached RMB 130 billion

Hair care is one of the most mature

it competes in the door-to-door

of Latin America’s market is far

in sales in 2009 (according to

product classes in the country

sales channel with Avon, but is

removed from those of North

data from the National Bureau

and the average consumer uses

considered to be the hands-

America, Europe and Asia;

of Statistics), should not be

at least shampoo and some sort

down best direct sales franchise

however, if one considers Latin

overlooked. China’s economic

of conditioner on a regular basis.

in Brazil. Natura’s ability to grow

America’s strongest player,

growth in 2008 was also hindered

Hair is one of the most appreciated

and generate consistent cash

Brazil — which accounts for

by the global recession, but a

aspects of beauty in Brazil, resulting

flow, combined with its financial

more than 50% of the Latin

strong recovery, which lifted

in a great expansion in the sale of

stability, even in adverse Brazilian

American market — it is possible

GDP growth, helped to boost

products, such as shampoos and

macroeconomic circumstances,

to see a perfect candidate for

cosmetics sales.

conditioners, which improve its

its strong distribution system and

appearance and health. Brazilian

its compelling branding and

the beauty market primacy.

Our estimates indicate that

Natura is a Brazilian direct

Brazil posted the world’s highest

the Brazilian market will grow

consumers are particularly open to

innovation differentiate the firm

cosmetics and toiletries market

on average by about 8.5% per

experimenting with new products

from its competition.

growth rate of 29% in 2 years

year during the next 5–10 years,

in different categories, which has

(taking the exchange rate

which will likely be enough to

resulted in skincare — spurred by

effect into consideration), its

surpass Japan in 1 or 2 years.

an influx of new customers, the

Ubiquitous: Direct Sales

sales growing from $14 billion in

This will, however, depend on

launch of better value products

There are a number of factors

2008 to $18 billion in 2010.

two major factors: the economic

and an ageing population

that explain the success of the

crisis in Japan and the currency

seeking more sophisticated

direct sales channel in Brazil, one

cosmetics and toiletries market,

rate paths in both countries.

solutions — becoming the fastest

of which is the job opportunities

second only to the United States

Although the Latin American

growing category. Global

it offers. For many years Brazil

and Japan; moreover, whereas

market may surpass North

companies command 48% of the

faced high unemployment rates

the Brazilian market has been

America in terms of size by 2015,

concentrated Brazilian market, of

— a job climate that favoured

growing by more than 14% per

Brazil as an individual country

which 67% is accounted for by the

businesses such as direct direct

year (in local currency), those

will in all probability remain

top ten players, the top three being

sales, which created excellent

of the US and Japan have both

behind the US.

Unilever, Natura and Avon.

business opportunities for women

Today, Brazil is the third largest

32

autumn 2011


and thereby offered families

the expanding middle class has

additional income. Generally,

boosted overall cosmetics and

the warm and friendly nature of

toiletries growth, priming the

Brazilians results in a preference

market for the blossoming of

for supporting friends’ businesses

natural product sales.

with their purchases. Added to a means to deliver the sensory

Growth and Demographics

experience that is so important

Stable and ‘controlled’ economic

in the selling of cosmetics

growth, inflation levels of about

and toiletries. This popularity is

5% per year, upward social

compounded by the fact that

migration, increasing disposable

Brazilian consumers feel excluded

income and growing consumer

from ‘traditional’ high-end stores.

demand contribute to Brazil’s

this predisposition, direct sales are

perpetual high growth. This has

Natural?

been compounded by the

Natura is also a key participant

‘demographic bonus’ — a period

in Brazil’s natural personal care

during which about two thirds of

market — the world’s third largest

the population are concentrated

— which has ballooned at a 20%

in the productive age bracket

compound average growth

of between the ages of 15 and

rate since 2005. This growth

64 — it has been experiencing

can in part be attributed to the

since 1990. This demographic

heavy influence of Natura and

phenomenon has been identified

another local giant, O Boticário,

by researchers David Bloom and

which together command an

Jeffrey Williamson of Harvard

overwhelming majority of the

University as chiefly responsible for

market share. The richness of

a third of the economic growth of

Brazil’s biodiversity, particularly the

the so-called Asian tigers between

flora of the Amazon region, is a

1965 and 1990.

key driver of this segment’s growth;

Demographic change in Brazil

many well known ingredients are

is expected to favour growth and

already being investigated for

shape demand in both durable

their cosmetic properties and

and non-durable goods; this will

the increasing supply of locally

also be true for the hygiene and

sourced raw materials causes

beauty product market. More

natural products to be more

mature and wealthier consumers

affordable and accessible for

will be increasingly inclined to

consumers. However, according

spend greater amounts of money

to Kline’s analyses of the natural

for additional convenience,

standing of brands — evaluated

comfort and a better standard

on a scale of 1–10, where 1

of service, which accords

indicates the smallest amount of

with forecasts anticipating

natural ingredients and 10 signifies

the continued growth of the

an almost complete natural

Brazilian market — although it

content — the Brazilian natural

predicts that some categories

personal care market leans heavily

will benefit more than others.

to the naturally inspired; that is,

In addition to the factors

towards the lower end of the

already discussed, it is

scale. This is a result of domestic

important to note that, as a

manufacturers marketing regular

result of economic growth

cosmetic and toiletry products as

and government ‘stimuli’

natural and thereby increasing

directed at the poorest

the size of the natural inspired

of the population,

segment. Furthermore, the

the middle class

cultural acceptance of natural

income continues

products makes it easier for

to grow; there

manufacturers to make the natural

will be more

‘pitch’ to consumers who, by and

consumers in the

large, already appreciate their

marketplace than

associated benefits. Meanwhile,

ever before. PHM

2011 autumn

For more information

Sérgio Rebêlo Managing Director Factor de Solução The Kline Group Tel. +55 11 3079 0792 sergio_rebelo@klinegroup.com

33


green chemicals

Tamarind is considered to be one of the most beautiful trees growing in the South-East of Asia. Also edible, its young pods are used both for nutrition and for manufacturing spices.1 The origins of its name lie in the Arabic words tamar (date) and hindi (Indian) and by 1500 its theraputic values were known in Europe where it was employed as a laxative, a long lasting traditional use that qualifies it as safe and well tolerated.

T

he tamarind seed has

product on one half of the face

by the positive reference. Finally,

a high polysaccharide

and a positive reference control

Xilogel’s performance was able

this data is that Xilogel forms

content, the most

(the same formulation in which

once more to compete with

a long lasting film on the skin

abundant of which

Xilogel was substituted with Sodium

Sodium Hyaluronate, improving

which, owing to the branched

is a branched

Hyaluronate) on the other.

skin density (measured by

structure of the polysaccharide,

echogenicity) by 7.9%.

and despite its lower molecular

polysaccharide with a cellulose-

Instrumental measurements of

The hypothesis supported by

type backbone (β-(1-4)D-glucose)

the hydration, elasticity, roughness

carrying xylose and galactoxylose

and denseness/echogenicity of

In-Vitro Trials

skin hydration more effectively

substituents. This polysaccharide has

the skin were performed on each

As a complement to this study,

than Sodium Hyaluronate. This

been extremely well characterized

half of the face at the beginning

Xilogel was also examined as

improved hydration of skin

and its use in cosmetic formulations

and end of the treatment. An

an inhibitor of β-galactosidase,

cells then boosts elasticity and

has been assessed in terms of

additional measurement of skin

an enzyme that, as its activity

reduces evidence of roughness,

skin hydration, elasticization,

hydration was taken 30 minutes

is generally higher in senescent

and a better homeostatic

roughness and skin density on

after a controlled application

keratinocytes, is often considered

balance of dermis cells enhances

healthy volunteers. Additionally,

(2mg/cm2) of the product. In skin

to be a marker of cell age —

skin density. Furthermore, in-vitro

Xilogel has been shown to impart a

treated with Xilogel, hydration was

observing a reduction in its

investigations confirmed Xilogel’s

unique sensory quality to cosmetic

seen to dramatically increase in

activity is usually associated with

involvement in the hydration

formulations, in particular a smooth,

just 30 minutes, accompanied by

antiageing properties. In addition,

mechanisms and ageing of

running spreadability that is

a 59.2% increase in skin moisture

Xilogel has been investigated as

cells. To conclude, such results

perceivable at concentrations as

— significantly greater than

a potentiator of the expression of

— combined with its high

low as 0.1%.

the 55.5% increase caused by

filaggrin, a protein crucial in the

performance in traditional and

the positive reference control.

maintanence of skin hydration.

silicon based systems — reveal

weight, improves short term

Efficacy Studies and Applications

After 4 weeks Xilogel exhibited further positive results in relation

Conclusions

moisturizer in a wide range

The biological efficacy of Xilogel

to the benchmark (a 35.8%

The Xilogel-containing formulation

of functions. PHM

employed in cosmetic formulations

compared with a 37.1% increase

in the clinical trial was seen

has been assesed in both in-vitro

in hydration). It also triggered an

to provide a better short term

and in in-vivo trials. The clinical

improvement in overall elasticity

hydration compared with the

efficacy trial involved 20 specially

in addition to a decrease of 19.4%

positive benchmark Sodium

selected female volunteers in

in maximal skin deformation

Hyaluronate, when employed

the 35-60 age group, who were

and visoelastic ration — a level

in a formulation at the same

requested not to use other products

similar to that of the Sodium

percentage of 0.5%. In other

on the testing area, to avoid

Hyaluronate reference (p<0.05).

instrumental measurements,

intentional UV exposure and to

Also displayed were decreases

Xilogel offered results that

refrain from washing their face for 3

of 27.6% and 21.3% in the average

demonstrated no statistically

hours prior to measurements. Each

roughness parameter (Sa) and

significant differences to the

volunteer acted as their own control;

the average maximum roughness

reference, indicating that it

the study design demanded the

parameter (Sz), respectively — again

qualifies as a suitable green

application of a Xilogel -containing

comparable to those achieved

alternative to hyaluronic acid.

34

Xilogel’s potential as a green

References

1. K. El-Siddig et al., Tamarind, Tamarindus indica, International Centre for Underutilised Crops, Southhampton (2006).

For more information

Guisi Losi Corporate Communication and Events Indena S.p.A Tel. +39 0257 496 298 giusi.losi@indena.com www.indena.it

autumn 2011


PersonalCare

Developing a natural product, but unsure whether a certification will be awarded? Remove the doubt!

Use the following ingredients and be sure to receive Soil association, NaTrue or ECOCERT certification. – – – –

Geogard™ series LaraCare™ A200 Natrulon™ H-10 Polyaldo™ series

For further information, please contact us at personalcare@lonza.com

The first cosmetic ingredients to be formally approved by the Soil Association for use in organic formulations are Lonza’s cosmetic ingredients.

Lonza is amongst the first raw material suppliers to offer raw materials that are NaTrue approved.

www.lonza.com


PHM Autumn 2011