Port at Oia
Nea Kameni
Fira, Santorini
The next stop on our tour is the hot springs at Palea Kameni. Our boat stops about 100 m from shore and the captain points to an area where the waters go from turquoise green to rusty brown. That is the location of the hot springs, and he warns us that we’ll probably return with stained bathing suits and skin. I’ve never let a little discolouration ruin my adventure so I jump from the deck of the ship into the sea and begin my swim to the springs. The water slowly warms to a lovely 35 degrees Celsius, but we only stay at the springs for about 45 minutes before it’s time to move to our next destination. Therasia or Thirasia is where we stop for a late lunch. The small island is home to fewer than 200 people, and compared to Santorini, is relatively untouched by tourism. Next to the port are several open air restaurants, on piers, all overlooking the water. The pace is leisurely and the food is authentic Greek: freshly caught from the sea as well as homegrown and homemade. I doubt I will ever have a lobster souvlaki as succulent and delicious as on Thirasia. The few tourist shops sell us kitschy magnets and we walk along the shore. To call it a beach might be a stretch for those accustomed to seeing sugar-fine white sand: it’s all pebbles and rocks. Donkeys graze amicably along the cliffs; they are surprisingly surefooted though nowhere near as agile as the wild goats that can be seen bounding along the rockface of the various islands. Our ship then takes us to the town of Oia, located on the northwestern part of Santorini, for dinner. Many of the restaurants sell whatever is caught that day and it is sold by either the whole fish or the pound. The eateries are crowded next to each other along the docks and waterfront, with tables placed precariously next to the edge of the boardwalk and open water (no railings!). FLUIDITY |ISSUE 6 | VEUX | 37