Verve. July 2017. Issue 135.

Page 32

DECADES OF

DENIM

Let’s admit it: denim is a staple in most of our wardrobes. You may think that this makes you an expert on denim, but there’s still a lot to learn about this versatile fabric. The origin of denim can be traced back to the 1700s to two locations: Genoa, Italy, and Nimes, France. In Genoa, Italian sailors wore durable cotton trousers that were called gênes (translated as jeans) by the French. In trying to replicate the fabric, French weavers produced a twill-woven cotton that was heavier and absorbed moisture quickly. The fabric became known as serge de nîmes, meaning 'from Nimes'. For many years, the fabric would be associated with workers. In the 1850s, German-born Levi Strauss immigrated to the United States to join his brother in selling dry goods. After hearing about the Californian gold rush, he set up a sector of the business in California and met a tailor named Jacob Davis. In the 1860s, Strauss and Davis developed sturdy pants for miners using denim fabric that was dyed with indigo because it was cheap and long lasting. Inspired by the gênes, the original design, Design 501, had flared bottoms. Strauss’ blue jeans were an instant success and it was not long before many companies wanted to enter into this market, hence the development of multiple jean brands.

Between 1890-1930, jeans remained most popular among male workers. However, in 1930, Vogue magazine created an advertisement of two women in tight jeans, resulting in department stores supplying Levi jeans in the women’s section. In the late 1940s, jeans became the clothing choice for America’s working women. In addition, during and after World War II, blue jeans gained a global audience, as American soldiers would wear them off-duty in Japan and Europe. By the 1950s, denim was considered highly fashionable. It gained rebellious associations among youth because of iconic figures like James Dean and Marlon Brando who wore blue jeans in movies. Jeans were also connected with 'bad boys' like Danny Zuko and the Thunderbirds of Grease, who sported jeans with leather jackets, Converse shoes, and aviator sunglasses. Double denim, or wearing blue jeans with a denim jacket, became especially popular because of Elvis Presley. In the 1960s, wearing jeans at American public demonstrations and protests symbolised identification and connection. Oftentimes, jeans were decorated with patches, paint, or group symbols. Although jeans were still reminiscent of the '50s rock ‘n' roll style and rebellious spirit, the '60s saw hippies adopting flared


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