84 FASHION Nov 2016
MAKERS’ MARK From various crafts, these four hands-on makers know why good things take time.
THE MILLINER
THE FRINGEMAKER
“Everyone needs a hat,” says the talented Dawei Zhang. With a background in fine arts and fashion design he is the fitting second designer of Dollie Vardin, an iconic local hat brand by Ailie Miller.
Alan Elliott bought his pre-owned fringe making machine in 1988 simply because he needed a job. Elliott, 62, still toils with the machine, which is at least 60-years-old itself.
Working for a brand with such an elegant history is an honour. Sitting in his home studio Zhang looks over to a black and white photograph of a Dollie Vardin hat, which is probably older than him. Zhang, 26, started learning millinery from Miller four years ago and quickly became a fixture in the company. “Ailie said she was going to shut the business and I said ‘no, definitely not’," says Zhang. "I still want people to wear hats because they are so beautiful.” His home studio is full of vintage hats, either on display or in a pile to be restored. However, Zhang has not designed a hat for himself. He tugs his beanie and says his face does not suit a proper hat. The designer relishes traditional methods of hat making, such as hours of hand sewing. He also works with new technology, like laser cutting for an upcoming ‘shinning mirror hat’. Sculptural and graphic elements of hat design are favoured because they draw on Zhang’s fine art skills. “Everything is very quick these days but I wish people had more patience,” he says. A Dollie Vardin hat takes 30 hours or more to make and includes consultation and fittings. “I hope people will love the hats and tell everyone Dollie Vardin is back”.
From his Takanini premises he provides fringing for showrooms and local fashion designers like Kate Sylvester. But surprisingly, his fringe is most sought after by dog shows, for ribbons. When asked how much fringing walks out the door he responds: “How long is a piece of string?” After some calculation, that string is around 30,000 metres a year. “It adds up after a while.” Because there is “no fancy technology” he threads all 50 needles himself. A job that is especially difficult for Elliott because he has Parkinson’s. “Some days the hands don’t work too well,” he says. “But we battle on.” And battle on he does. Elliott is the only fringe maker in New Zealand – there was only one other when he started 28 years ago. The work is seasonal for Elliott, who mostly works solo. And although he admits the work can be monotonous, it is also very satisfying. Elliott says it is unfortunate that people shop for price over quality but he perseveres with his product. The yarn he uses may be the same as overseas fringe makers but he puts more yarn into each bit of fringing so it hangs properly. “It’s fairly basic once you know how it all works,” Elliott says. “You set the pattern, you set the needles up, and away you go.”