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The brave new world of fashion


i n t r o d u c t i o n This fashion portfolio aims to discover a trend that has been on the market this last season: autumn/winter 2009. The trend is entitled “The Brave New World of Fashion” by trend expert David Wolfe from The Doneger Group. This portfolio will examine this trend on several levels, such as Haute Couture, Prêt-a-Porter (Ready to Wear) and street style. It will also showcase inspiration boards for this trend and descriptions throughout the portfolio. The theme of this fashion portfolio is centred around space, the universe and stars as these reflect the best the idea of something NEW (this trend) within something EXISTING (fashion), and are the most related to fashion which is cyclical, presents constant changes, and have a high level of effect on society.


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Inspiration Boards Glamorous Depression

80’s on full power

Fashion Haute Couture Ready to Wear Hungarian Designers Accesories Own Interpretation

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Glamorous Depression


The great depression refers to the breakdown of the US economic system. It started with the “black Friday” in 1929 and lasted around a decade. Recover from this situation came by the Second World War and the 40’s. People in this bad, depressing situation were stuck on TV and the old Hollywood glamour was born. Ordinary people were inspired and motivated by Hollywood actresses and new York socialites such as Katherine Hepburn or Lucien Lelong’s wife Natalia Paley.

Beautiful love stories of the 30’s and 40’s

Hollywood swept the whole world.

These years were filled

with long bias cut dresses, draped silk and satin materials with a sophisticated attitude. big names in fashion: Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, Lucien Lelong, Madelaine Vionnet.


The Eighties on Full Power


Fashion in the 80 suggested more than one trends. We are looking to describe the “working Girl� trend. This trend was all about big shoulders, small waist, suits for women.

TV shows were the biggest in-

spiration for the ordinary women such as Dallas and The Dynasty. The dynasty was one of the biggest Produced TV shows ever as producers recognized the importance of fashion in series. They observed that many women were inspired by them so styling became the essential part of the show. Lady Diana, Joan Collins, Margaret Thatcher and the Working Girl Movie were also very inspirational at the time and also now while looking back.


We are able to spot the trend in Haute Couture Collections of the Paris runway. Many of them used the 80’S working girl image and the sophistication of the 1930’s as inspiration. We can see many accentuated shoulders on suits and dresses. Materials that were mainly used are l e a t h e r, f u r, f e a t h e r s a n d s h e e r / s e e through fabrics. Dresses are long, trousers are wide legged, shoulders are accentuated, the colour is black and the skin is not explicitely shown.


Alexis Mabille


Armani PrivĂŠ

G i v e n c h y


V a l e n t i n o

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C

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J e a n G a u l

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The trend we are aiming to illustrate is a mixture of the “Old Hollywood Glamour” and the eighties “Working Girl” attitude. The main characteristic of this style is a sophisticated grown up attitude. The interpretation of this trend on the runway featured many see through garments. The use of materials that can cover up the whole body while also not covering it was very popular and was present at many of the shows at the New York, London, Milan and Paris runways both at Haute Couture and P r ê t á P o r t e r. T h e m a s s i v e a p p e a r a n c e o f t h e v e l v e t , fur and leather is also noticeable. Many designers used them as part of their collections to create the fabulous look reminiscent of the 30’s and also the 80’s by creating wide shoulders and elegant, long feminine dresses. Velvet clothes were usually long and covered up most of the body. Designers used fur in many unusual ways such as fur tops, cardigans and snoods (new on the runway this season). Fur coats were used in colors and shapes that are reminiscent of the 80’s as they are usually short but at the same time give a glamorous outlook. Leather was used also in long sleeved dresses, gloves, thigh high boots, skirts and they were either quilted or cut and draped in interesting ways. They have wide shoulders, long sleeves and are loose fitted. Shoes were often thigh high boots or ankle boots and a lot of them with platform soles. T o s u m m a r i z e t h e t r e n d : d r e s s e s a r e l o n g e r, s h o u l d e r s a r e w i d e r, a t t i t u d e i s m o r e s o p h i s t i c a t e d w i t h g a r m e n t s that cover up the whole body now, and are of several layers. The main color is black. The “IT” bag is over; the main focus of fashionistas is now on bold jewelry and crazy shoes.


Hermes

Louis Vuitton

Alexander McQueen

Marc Jacobs

Dolce & Gabbana

Karl Lagerfeld

Roksanda Ilincic

Maison Martin MArgiela

Hussein Chalayan

Hussein Chalayan

Shoulders Accentuated


MaxMara

Alexander McQueen

Miu Miu

Junya Watanabe

Louis Vuitton

Kenzo

Hermes

Nicole Fahri

Dropped Hemline


Cavalli

Valentino

Hussein Chalayan

Versace

Yves Saint Laurent

Dresses and evening wear that cover you up


Gianfranco Ferre

Balmain

GBCB

Burberry

BCBG

Balmain

Armani

Chloe

Chloe

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Betty Jackson

Balmain

velvet


Ralph Rucci

Alberta Feretti

Bernard Chandran

Dell Acqua

Andrew GN

Andrew GN

Byblos

Dell Acqua

Christian Lacroix

Bora Aksu

Alberta Feretti

s e e t h r o u g h


Betty Jackson

DKNY

r Dell Acqua

Burberry

Alexander Wang

Dell Acqua

Burberry

Dell Acqua

Antonio Berardi

Anne-Valerie Hash

Alexander Wang

f

u


Alberta Feretti

l e Blumarine

Balmain

t h Blugirl

e Emilio Pucci

Andrew GN

Ann Demeulemeester

a r

Alberta Feretti


f a s h i o n

Nanushka

Dora Mojzes

Use Unused

Dora Abodi

Kata Szegedi

H u n g a r i a n

D e s i g n

The designers featured in this portfolio are the biggest names amongst the young in hungary. Kata szegedi is the best up and coming Hunagrian designer (won the prize), Dora Abodi is beginning to get known in the USA, and recently even style Bubble has had a post about her creations. she has been invited to a off schedule new york fashion show where she presented her collection in font of industry people, and received great reviews. Use Unused is a formation of designer, they are the oldest and most established amongst the yung designers. Dora Mojzes is a young designer as well who graduated from MOME, Budapests Arts University and she is also getting to experinece international recognition. and the last designer is Nanushka. She is hungarian as well but she hd graduated at LCF. her collections are very relaxed, almost even sporty. her inspiration for this collection was the partly the eighties. web pages: www.kataszegedi.com, www.doraabodi.com, www.use.co.hu, www.doramojzes.com and www.nanushka.com.


Chanel

Roksanda Ilincic

Givenchy

Burberry

Albino

Dolce & Gabbana

John Galliano

Armani

Chanel

Blumarine

bold accessories


Michael Kors

Fendi

Ashish

Armani

G l o v e s


Louis Vuitton

D&G

Antonio Berardi

Gianfranco Ferre

Dolce & Gabbana

Roberto Cavalli

Giles

Ferragamo

BCBG

Chanel

C r a z y S h o e s


These clothes are my own designs. The first one is a lace ensemble and the second one is a black see through jumper with a huge necklace (necklace is designed by dora, a fashion student). They convey the ideas of the “Brave New world of Fashion� trend, they are black, they are sleek and look sophisticated. These are my interpretations of the all black trend.


c o n c l u s i o n There are always several trends on the catwalk every season. From this last A/W 09 season the Doneger Group spotted a trend that they entitled the brave new world of fashion. The trend is new as there are many changes such as hemlines dropped, meaning that skirt and dresses are beginning to get longer, new materials are used, and the attention is on new items like shoes and accessories/jewellery instead of the “IT” bag. The portfolio shows that in this trend (that is reminiscent of the 80’s working girl and the 30’s Hollywood glamour) how many sub trends, aside of shapes and silhouettes, are present such as materials and accessories. Every clothes featured in the portfolio is a part of this trend, but are grouped under different themes, such as material and garment type.


b i b l i o g r a p h y

a n d

Images: Runway images for international designers: www.catwalking.com for hungarian designers: their own webpages: www.kataszegedi.com,

doramojzes.com and www.nanushka.com inspiration board images: google background images: www.sxc.hu

Text: Homepages of fashion houses, google research about decades.

r e f e r e n c e s

www.doraabodi.com,www.use.co.hu, www.

fashion portfolio - The Brave New World of Fashion  

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