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Cellar Door Wi n e and p ossi b i l i t ie s by Banville & Jone s Wine Co.

Pinot Noir


Issue 14 February 2013 - May 2013

People’s Choice Magazine of the Year 2011 & 2012 1


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contents 24 37

Features 24 Problem Child Mike Muirhead explores the finicky and fickle personality of Pinot Noir.

37 Putting Canadian Sommeliers on the Map: An Interview with Jessica Harnois Tina Jones explores the business and competition of the Sommelier profession.


48 Postcards from the Edge Andrea Eby travels the world of Pinot Noir on the back of a grape.

Thank you to our loyal readership for voting The Cellar Door Manitoba's Consumer Magazine of the Year in 2011 and 2012!

Cover: Pauline Boldt, 5

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contents Columns 10 A Message from Tina Jones 13 Ask a Sommelier 17 Behind the Label: Tawse Winery 18 Banville & Jones and Company 41 52

28 Trending Tools of the trade

33 Gary’s Corner Pinot Noir: A variety of clones

41 Test Kitchen The Pinot Noir Challenge

46 Gluggy Tribute to a miracle

52 Banville & Jones Events 56 Banville & Jones Wine Institute 58 Especially for You Our favourite new accessories

60 Culinary Partners 63 Sidebar Canada’s Sommeliers

64 Shopping List 63

66 Top Picks 7


Cellar Door Publisher and Marketing Director Megan Kozminski Editorial Director Lisa Muirhead Graphic Design Aubrey Amante, CR3ATIVE Design Sales Associate Vanessa Shapiro

Contributors Tina Jones, Todd Antonation, Martin Ayotte, Jennifer Battcock-Coish, Mya Brown, Pauline Boldt, John D’Anna, Andrew Eastman, Andrea Eby, Stephen Elphick, Carol Fletcher, Traci Freisen, Sarah Kenyon, Carolyn Wells-Kramer, Jennifer Hiebert, Gary Hewitt, Sylvia Jansen, Jill Kwiatkoski, Ian McCausland, Saralyn Mehta, Mike Muirhead, Rob Stansel, Jackie Stephen, David Warrenchuk, Rick Watkins Published for Banville & Jones Wine Co. by Poise Publications Inc. 101-478 River Ave, Suite 707 Winnipeg, MB R3L 0B3 For advertising information, please contact

Banville & Jones Wine Co. is a fine wine boutique in Winnipeg, Manitoba that specializes in promoting wine education and lifestyle. Opened by sisters Tina Jones and Lia Banville in 1999, it is located in a three-storey Tuscan-inspired facility that houses fine wine and accessories, an educational facility, and a private function room. Banville & Jones Wine Co. 1616 St Mary’s Rd. Winnipeg, MB R2M 3W7 ph. 204-948-9463

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a message from tina jones My FavEs 1. Naudin Ferrand: The wines from this family estate in Burgundy have been my faves for more than 10 years! 2. Discovering a new favourite Pinot Noir and then trying to find it again: impossible! 3. Billecart-Salmon Rosé Champagne is exquisite and world famous. I feel very honoured and privileged to be the exclusive retailer in Winnipeg of this world-class Champagne. 4. The city of Beaune in Burgundy— it’s magical! 5. Trusting Sommelier picks of Pinot Noir with the most difficult culinary flavours. It’s my go-to choice when I’m experimenting with food and wine.

When we decided that an entire issue of The Cellar Door would be devoted to Pinot Noir, it was exciting! One of the many ideas swirling about was to create a Test Kitchen competition. We had a great notion that we could pit teams composed of one chef and one wine expert against each other to create the best food and Pinot Noir wine pairing combination in the city. What happened was something that transcended all of our expectations: three beautifully flavoured and balanced dishes were created, each completely different from the others, and each paired with a Pinot Noir that was different from the rest. In fact, the teams did their jobs so well, that the judges (I admit, I was one) failed in our job to declare a winner! We had to admit that each Pinot Noir was the perfect companion to its dish, and each dish was a winner. And very importantly, each Pinot Noir was also tested with the other dishes and they clearly didn’t work. Only the selected pairings worked! Wow! Check out page 41 for the details. I wholeheartedly believe we should have anticipated this outcome. Pinot Noir has so many faces, so many facets! Pinot can be pale and elusive, yet exciting and perfumed. It can be rich and savoury, yet light on its feet. Pinot Noir can be rich and dark from California, or it can be a classic, elegant Burgundian, or it can be the beautiful backbone to racy, bubbly Champagne. The variety is reluctant to be put into a straightjacket or style, but it is consistently stylish! I invite you to turn these pages with me to join this elusive quest. Read about our Test Kitchen adventure; go along with Mike Muirhead and Andrea Eby on experiences and travels with Pinot; and read up on the science behind the mystery with Gary Hewitt. As always, every word of our regular columns and features is worth reading. Enjoy,

Tina Jones


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ask a sommelier What is the difference between Ripasso, Valpolicella, and Amarone? —David Leibl Dear David, The truth is, these three wines are all variations on a theme. All are made from the same red grape varieties— Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara— which are grown in the Valpolicella region of Northeast Italy. Valpolicella— the basic, medium-bodied version of this blend—starts at $11. The top level is Amarone. What makes Amarone special is that the grapes are picked in late fall and then dried on trays for an average of 120 days, until they shrivel. They lose moisture, but the sugar remains, resulting in a big, rich wine that is higher in alcohol. Amarones normally start around $35. Ripasso is the style in between. The term “ripasso” literally means “to pass back over” in Italian. The wine is made by refermenting a basic Valpolicella on the skins left over from the production of Amarone. The process adds character and alcohol. Ripassos are sometimes called “baby Amarones,” and start at around $17.

a-kind wines are made through a unique process that involves fortifying the wines with grape spirit. From there, things get confusing. The finest wines are nurtured to encourage the development of a special yeast known as “flor.” The blanket of flor that develops on these wines protects them from the damaging effects of oxygen and contributes unique flavours to the wine. These wines will be labelled as Fino Sherry, and because they have been protected from oxygen during their development, their unique flavours will be destroyed quickly once exposed to the air. It is recommended that a Fino Sherry be consumed within a week of opening.

Dear Audrey,

Wines not destined for the Fino style will enter a different aging regime, where they are allowed to mingle with the air and develop nutty, oxidized flavours. These wines will often be labelled as Oloroso and can last longer once open because of their previous exposure to air. I suggest consuming an Oloroso within two months of opening. Other forms of Sherry, such as Cream Sherry, Sweet Sherry, and Pedro Ximénez have much higher sugar content than the dry Fino and Oloroso styles and can hold up for months once opened.

While Sherry is one of the most underappreciated and versatile wines out there, it is also one of the most confusing wine styles to understand. All real Sherry comes from an area in southwest Spain known as the “Sherry Triangle.” These one-of-

“Cooking Sherry” is a different matter altogether. This “wine” is in fact not real Sherry and has had copious amounts of salt and preservatives added to it, in order to extend its shelf life. I suggest trading in your cooking “Sherry” for a bottle of Oloroso.

—Mike Muirhead I like to keep a bottle of Sherry in the fridge for cooking. I heard that Sherry is already oxidized, so I don’t have to worry about it going bad. Is this true? If not, how long can I keep it in my fridge? —Audrey Waterman

Keeping the bottle in the fridge will extend its shelf life and I wouldn’t be surprised if you found yourself sipping away on this delicious wine, even when you’re not cooking! —Andrea Eby What is a great wine for a dessert party? —Janice Cournoyer Dear Janice, Dessert is always a challenge. You don’t want to “oversweet” the flavours, so you have to choose wisely, and with an open mind. For a dessert party, and particularly with chocolate cake, I would definitely choose the Torrontes Late Harvest by Michel Torino. This wine has the orange tones that match perfectly with chocolate. It is sweet, but not sugary, and has a kind of fresh acidity at the end that makes it the perfect dance partner for desserts! If you are enjoying different styles of dessert (from lemon pie to lava cake, fresh and dried fruits to cheeses), you could pour a fun selection to beautifully pair with such a variety. For example, Simonsig Brut Rosé Sparkling is a delightfully fruity and dry Rosé. Also, you can’t neglect Port: try the Quinta de Ventozelo. Another amazing selection is the Innocent Bystander Cordon Cut Viognier. This wine is so good, it is hard to find words that contain it! Finally, I would add a fizzy Moscato (preferably Italian) like Primo Amore—or if you are in the mood to splurge, try the Francesca Callegaro Fior D’Arancio Colli Euganei. —Flavia Fernandez Fabio If you have a question for our Sommeliers, visit us at 13

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behind the label: tawse winery By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW

Tawse 2009 Grower's Blend Pinot Noir, Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $35.99

Tawse 2010 Quarry Road Pinot Noir, Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $39.99

There are two great sayings in the wine world. The first is: “It takes a lot of beer to make good wine,” referring to the long hours and camaraderie that every vintage entails. The other speaks to the competition in the boutique winery market: “How do you make a small fortune off of a winery? You start with a large one.” Moray Tawse has rolled his long and lucrative career as a mortgage investor into one of Niagara’s most successful wineries. There is no other winery that has claimed Wine Access’s title of Best Canadian Winery three years running. It is notable that when you Google Moray Tawse’s name, three of the first five hits speak to his personal success, and 10 of the next 11 hits are all about his winery. And for good reason: our lead buyer and Sommelier, Gary Hewitt, has been praising their pure and distinct wines since his first visit in 2008. Tawse Winery has garnered national acclaim for their consistent excellence, and a lot has been credited to their philosophy. Tawse follows a biodynamic philosophy in their vineyards, taking organic principles to the next level. They follow the biodynamic calendar for plant cycles, vine management, treatment, and picking. From the vineyard, the grapes make their way to Tawse’s state-of-

Tawse 2010 Laidlaw Pinot Noir, Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $49.99

the-art gravity-flow winery. The results are best summed up in one taste of the wines that earned over 24 medals, including a record-setting six golds, at the 2011 Wine Access awards. Another factor that contributes to Tawse’s phenomenal success is their award-winning winemaker, Paul Pender. Winner of Ontario Wine Awards’ Winemaker of the Year in 2011, Paul started his career as a carpenter before following his passion for winemaking to Niagara. Drawing from this connection to the earth, Paul’s nurturing hand creates natural wines that have been applauded by many critics. Tawse’s wines are precise and complex, and their Pinot Noirs are distinctly driven by a sense of place. They have three different single-vineyard Pinot Noirs, each with their own personality. Quarry Road is pure and lean with fresh acidity, earthiness and red fruits, whereas Laidlaw is big and rich with dark red fruits and smoky mushroom aromas. Grower’s Blend has great complexity and a broad fruit profile, stretching from red and dark cherry to berry notes. Paul Pender’s gift is taking a step back to let the character of the vineyards shine through in each of Tawse’s exquisite wines.  17

banville & jones and company

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Friends of Banville & Jones: 1. The Banville & Jones team with Silvio di Silvio from Donnafugata, Sicily; 2. Roger Gillespie from Hester Creek Vineyards presents to the students of the Professional Sommelier Program; 3. Guiseppe Mazzocolin of Felsina Estate, Tuscany with Tina Jones; 4. Andrea Eby, Ryan Dunne, and Samia Torcivia at the Tolaini Winemaker's Dinner, The Velvet Glove; 5. Hector Hurd, Louie Tolaini, Ryan Dunne, and Chef Tim Palmer at the Tolaini Winemaker's Dinner, The Velvet Glove at The Fairmont Winnipeg.








6. Michele Cuto, Simone Luchetti, Diego Bonato, and Francesco Rosi of Tolaini Estates, Tuscany; 7. Marisa Curatolo and Tina Jones of le tre in Siena; 8. Tina Jones, Diego Bonato, and Marisa Curatolo at Tolaini Estates, Tuscany; 9. Pauline Boldt photographs Tolaini Estates; 10. Cycling the Clare Valley Wine Trail in Australia; 11. Judith Unterholzner of Kellerei Terlan. (Photos 6, 7, and 8 by Pauline Boldt) 19


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Problem Child

By Mike Muirhead, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW

Eventually, every wine nerd wants to make wine. It is a natural progression. We start with the wine bug, graduate to wine nerd-dom and then think that we can do it ourselves. The ultimate grape that every nerd wants a crack at is Pinot Noir. On the surface, this is a curious choice. Pinot Noir is so finicky in the vineyard and the winery that it is called the “Heartbreak Grape.” It has scent descriptors that commonly include “compost” and “dirty diapers”—and those only show up in the best Pinots! But here’s the thing about Pinot Noir: when wine lovers find that bottle of Pinot that blows their minds, they spend the rest of their lives trying to find that next bottle that can do the same.


Raising Pinot Pinot Noir is mysterious and fickle. As a rule, grapes grow well in poor conditions, but Pinot Noir is the epitome of finicky. It likes the fringes, and makes the grape grower work hard. If you look at all the best Pinot Noir regions in the world, you will find that they are all on the outskirts: the Otago region in New Zealand is the most southern grape-growing region in the world (followed closely by Patagonia, Argentina); Niagara and Oregon are at the limits of northern grape growing with their short seasons; and Burgundy has one slope that runs for 40 kilometres in a marginal-continental climate that produces some of the best (and most expensive) Pinot Noir in the world. Pinot grapes produce the best wines when they have a long growing season and grapes can be picked into the late fall. But in these climates, Pinot Noir acts like a petulant toddler—you never know what you are going to get out of it.

Pinot Noir is mysterious and fickle. As a rule, grapes grow well in poor conditions, but Pinot Noir is the epitome of finicky. The Reward All wine nerds have their sights set on the Pinot Noir grape because, when the stars align, that is when the magic happens, and the wine becomes more than just wine. It becomes magical; it becomes hedonistic; it is no longer known as Pinot Noir, but by its proper name: Echézeaux, Gervrey Chambertin. It has scent and a feeling that

embodies the French word terroir, where you can actually taste and feel where the wine comes from. These fantasy Pinot Noirs can be big and brooding with dark blue fruits, firm tannins, and long, lingering acidity; or they can be full of strawberry and raspberry with floral and perfume notes that are light and dance on the palate.

Even if you have the perfect vintage, your heartache does not end in the vineyard. The Pinot Noir grape has a notoriously thin skin, the acidity of the grape falls off like it is a 10-metre platform diver, and the slightest rain at harvest will make it swell up, diluting the juice and ruining the harvest. It is more emotional than a teenager going through puberty. But like any child, if you treat it well and manage to provide the perfect conditions for its upbringing, you might have something that you can be proud of in the end—as long as you don’t mess up the higher education: winemaking. Yes, this part is as precarious as the growing stage—with the chance of producing thin, acidic wines or overripe, flat wines that don’t taste like any of the characteristics of fine Pinot Noir. It can be over oaked, or under oaked, and can live in the bottle for a week, or for a lifetime. Vines among the world’s best Pinot Noir at Bannockburn Vineyards, New Zealand 25

Pinot Noir is a grape that entrances and frustrates. It can be your best investment—or your absolute worst. Pinot Noir is the wine that you talk about with all your wine friends, and the one wine in your cellar that you might never open. Pinot Noir is like a junior-high crush: just thinking about it makes you happy without even opening the bottle. We all want our chance at catching its eye—and Pinot Noir will flirt back, but you both know who will always come out on top. 

Photo by David Warrenchuk

when the stars align, that is when the magic happens, and the wine becomes more thaN just wine.

PINOT CAMP I was lucky enough to receive an invitation to Pinot Camp in Willamette Valley, Oregon. The experience is essentially Band Camp for wine nerds, where 200 wine writers, restauranteurs, and Sommeliers from around the world spend five days discovering Oregon and all of its sub-regions. I had the opportunity to explore Pinot Noir from a macro (regional) level, a meso (single vineyard) level, and a micro level (plant by plant), studying different tastes from different regions, vineyards, soil types, barrel aging regimes, and—for us exceptionally nerdy folk— different yeast strains. This was the opportunity of a lifetime, and really shone a light on how unique and special Pinot Noir is to each region, person, and vineyard. ­—Mike ­­ Muirhead Pinot Camp picks:

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Underwood Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir, Oregon...... $16.99

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Johan Vineyards 2009 Estate Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley........ $43.99

This is the ultimate weekend for those with a thirst for Pinot Noir and a hunger for fine northwestern cuisine: enjoy tastings, seminars, vineyard tours, and meals in some of the best wine country in North America.

Domaine Serene 2009 Evenstad Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley........ $99.99


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trending By Rob Stansel So what happened? Why, in 2013, are we still twisting a metallic helix into a bullet of tree bark, hoping the whole thing doesn’t backfire onto our tablecloths and footwear? Sommeliers, I must tell you, are gadget-loving folk. As a sommelier-in-training, I’m a bit amused by it, even struck by self-doubt: shouldn’t I be more excited to wield a Champagne sabre, fascinated by the physics of decanting funnels? Maybe. But that night, what struck me most was the contrast: our hip, unfortunate server was struggling with a tool derived from a 17th-century musket-cleaning device, his guest was uploading a photo of the aftermath to Instagram, and I was re-thinking my wine selection. Something with a screw-cap, maybe. In the spring of 2011, whilst UrbanSpoon-ing my way through Manhattan in a quest for the holy grail of wine and food pairings, I came upon a quaint tapas joint with a Robert-Parker-would-approve 90 per cent-plus rating. Check the comments. With a few flicks of my thumb, phrases like “delicious,” “modern,” and “OMG BEST TAPAS EVER!!!” whizzed across my display. Worth a go. I looked up. I’d walked right by it. Spoiler alert: I didn’t find the grail there. Apologies to all you foodies and wine nerds whose hopes I’d buttressed. You’d already skipped ahead anyway, hadn’t you? You’d opened a new tab and Googled “BEST TAPAS EVER MANHATTAN,” hadn’t you? I’d taken my seat and perused the wine list: Charcoal Helvetica on a 5" x 12" white placard. Very clean, very NYC. Many unfamiliar faces. How to choose? Open the browser again. A Wine Spectator Top 100? Todd Antonation would approve. Worth a go. To my left, a Sommelier sporting a deep-V and Chucks strolled up to his guests’ table with a bottle in hand. I strained to see what the locals were drinking. Couldn’t quite read the label. I watched intently. The blade must have been a bit dull. There was a struggle with the capsule, his hand trembling, sawing awkwardly at the foil. Finally, it was off. Bits of aluminum on the table. Evidence of the battle. A stubborn old vintage, perhaps. Then, something I’d never witnessed before, and have not seen since: with lever latched to lip, the bottle’s neck split along a barely visible seam and collapsed into a crimson tide of spoiled tablecloth and chunky shards of glass. The “corkscrew fail” writ large in the Big Apple. I looked down at my left shoe. A single splatter. Not something to tip-down over.


The technology at our tables, it seems, isn’t so much changing as expanding. Corkscrews won’t be laid to rest anytime soon. Candles will be lit. Decanters will be filled. Glass will break, occasionally. But tablets and apps and Tweets are modifying our dining habits. We shop with CornerVine now. We post “pics” of our meals on Facebook. We might even go to Hy’s Steak Loft and make our wine selection on an iPad. And we’ll keep opening our most beloved bottles, whether by wing or worm or shoe. 

A Sommelier’s Favourite Gadgets iPad Wine List – As seen at Hy’s Steak House, this is the ultimate in high-tech table-side service. Sort by grape, price, region, or category, with the added benefit to the Sommelier of real-time inventory, so you never show a wine that is out of stock. Wine Aerator – There are aerators in all shapes and sizes now, ranging from $10–$50. All are there to take time and effort out of decanting, so you can enjoy your wine faster. Isn’t this what the technological age is about? CornerVine – Just what you need to keep track of all the great wines you purchase at Banville & Jones! Rate, comment, and share your wines with your friends, all at http://banvilleandjones. – This site is definitely the most useful cellar tracking site we have come across. Look online at user reviews and community tasting notes, all while keeping track of the wines in your cellar.

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size, shoot growth (do they stand up straight or droop?), grape berry colour, and resultant wine flavours and structure.

Pinot Noir: A variety of clones Clones in the viticultural sense are not GMOs (genetically modified organisms), products of genetic engineering with genes from unrelated species plugged into their DNA. Rather, grapevine clones represent a lineage of vines that can trace their ancestry back to a single mother plant. Each progeny grows from a cutting of a parent plant. “Vegetative” propagation in this manner perpetuates a consistency of vine growth behaviour and of flavour profile from generation to generation. Such consistency is totally lost by planting grape seeds, which contain the genes of two parents and result in offspring that differ wildly from their parents. Clones evolve naturally by small genetic mutations that give rise to traits a bit different from the parent, but not so different that the progeny is considered an entirely new variety. Because Pinot Noir is one of the oldest recognized grape varieties, it has endured centuries of little mutations to create an estimated 200 to 11,000 different clones (the number depends upon who is counting!). Clones differ in all sorts of ways, including shape and size of bunches, grape berry

Burgundy, the likely birthplace of Pinot Noir, has long embraced its fickleness. Centuries of selecting vines with desirable traits followed by local propagation created a patchwork of clones among the vineyards, a veritable treasure chest of clones. When the New World came looking for vinestock, they chose a few clones and added them to collections such as the one created at University of California at Davis. Growers in California and up the coast in Oregon chose from these collections, and a few individual clones soon dominated plantings. At first, the challenge of matching any Pinot Noir to new climates and soils was enormous, but in time and with experience, new regions produced good, if not great, wines. Sure, the better wines tasted like true Pinot Noir, but too often they lacked nuance and complexity. Some winemakers and wine lovers found them, well, boring. Could it be that the diversity of vines in Burgundian vineyards is important for wine complexity? As new clones of Pinot Noir became available, many growers diversified their vineyards and winemakers began to experiment. Sure enough, combinations of clones expanded the flavours, filled in deficiencies,

and added complexity. Producers in regions such as Willamette Valley in Oregon (already nuts about their local terroir) went mad about clones. Nowadays, ask any Pinot Noir producer about his favourite clones and more than likely you can sit back for a long one-sided conversation. You will hear tales of clones from France, the reliable ones with prosaic names like 115 and 828, but more affectionately called the Dijon or Bernard clones; of California heritage clones named for the vineyards—such as Swan, Martinelli, and Mount Eden— where they were first selected; and of the UC Davis Pommard clone, with its unbroken lineage back to a single vine from the Burgundian village of Pommard. You will hear of “suitcase clones” such as Calera, which might have been lifted from the property at Domaine Romanée-Conti to be smuggled home in a certain winemaker’s luggage. And if you travel to New Zealand, you may hear about the Abel clone, reputedly from the Burgundy village of VosneRomanée: it was discovered by an immigration officer in the gumboot of an intrepid, aspiring young winemaker. Perhaps this official understood the potential importance of this botanical transgression, for he chose to look the other way. Oh, by the way, the official’s name was Abel.  33

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Putting Canadian Sommeliers on the Map:

Jessica Harnois Interview by Tina Jones A professional Sommelier with international experience and connections, Jessica Harnois is currently President of the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers (CAPS/ACSP). Jessica has collaborated with influential wine writer James Suckling, and is a regular contributor to various television shows and magazines. Tina Jones speaks with her about the love of wine, the Sommelier profession, and international Sommelier competitions. Tina Jones (TJ) You have been in the wine business for a long time, and I know that you have a lot of experience, so tell me how you started.

I recently started a company called Vin au Feminin (Women in Wine), with a bunch of women involved in the wine industry, like Véronique Rivest, Best Sommelier of the Americas. I also created a new wine game called Vegas Tasting. It’s a poker-style blind tasting game and should be available in your local stores for Christmas 2013.

Jessica Harnois (JH) I started tasting wine with a Sommelier every single weekend at age 7—not drinking, but tasting wine. By the time I was fourteen, I was TJ You have spent many years as a Sommelier, working initiated into the wine world. I loved tasting, smelling; I in the various roles that the job offers. It is often said that had so much fun with it. At fourteen, I started working in the Sommelier is the “final link in the chain from grape a restaurant. When I turned 18, I took a bartending class grower to consumer.” In your experience, what is that offered some Sommelier training. Because the the responsibility of the Sommelier? types of Sommelier courses we have now didn’t It’s the exist back then, I decided to go to university JH I think Sommeliers should master and study communication to be able to Sommelier’s three things. The first is psychology, to share my passion for wine. Now I’m an job to make your understand the needs of their clients, and expert in training—that’s what I do. their own needs. They should be very experience perfect, humble and be able to look for balance, After my degree, I did my Sommelier and find the match not just what they like. Second, they training and then I took off for a year and must be able to project a wine’s future did a tour of 25 countries. I sort of did my that makes you development in the bottle—that is a very own Masters of Wine. I ended up working shiver! special skill. And third, they should be able as a Sommelier for Tetsuya’s Restaurant in to deliver the ultimate experience for their Sydney, Australia, and then at Charlie Trotter’s, clients: they need to organize themselves to have a in Chicago. When I returned to Montreal, I got good wine cellar, be a smart buyer, and project well while involved with one of the biggest buyers in the world, Denis considering each customer’s budget. The “experience” Marsan, who ran the Societé des alcools de Québec (SAQ) you’ll have in a restaurant is the most important thing Signature Service. About 13,000 members got the SAQ a Sommelier can offer. It’s the Sommelier’s job to make magazine called Courrier Vinicole, which would give them your experience perfect, and find the match that makes access to private imports. I was a buyer for the Signature you shiver! Service for four years, and I was in charge of the SAQ wine cellar, which housed 75,000 bottles of collectible wines. I TJ Balancing all of those skills as a Sommelier is difficult. left SAQ when I got the opportunity to work with [wine Also, I think that most people don’t understand what is critic] James Suckling for a year. Then television came involved in running a restaurant’s wine cellar. knocking on my door, and now I’m in the media industry full time and president of the Canadian Association of JH A very good Sommelier is a very good buyer. Running Professional Sommeliers (CAPS). a cellar is like running a business. You should buy in three 37

different categories. First, you should have wines that are affordable. Second, you should manage your budget to always have wine aging in your cellar (it should gain in value through time). We have a tendency to drink wine too young, and the experience is not the same. The customer benefits if you have a good price list of older vintages that are ready to drink. So you need to be able to manage that turnover. Third, the wine list should not be the same all the time. It should be organic. It’s just like music—if a radio station always plays the same song, you’ll get tired of it. You’ve got to keep moving on. Do not be lazy, or too crazy. Balance is the key! TJ “By the glass” programs in restaurants are very difficult. Many think that they need to offer so many wines by the glass, but then they don’t take care of them at night and they don’t taste right the next day. Do you have any ideas about that? JH I support a big new thing coming up in Canada called VERSAY (wine on tap). It’s wine in a keg. It’s top of the line because the wine temperature is controlled and it’s sealed, so you never end up with an oxidized wine. Kegs also cost less than carrying individual bottles. I love drinking by the glass. Restaurants should have a super nice collection of wines by the glass that changes

constantly, and is preserved properly each night to protect each from oxidization. TJ Because of the Sommelier of the Year competition, Canada has been getting some buzz on the international wine scene. This year’s winner of Canadian Sommelier of the Year, Véronique Rivest, also did very well in the Best Sommelier of the Americas in Brazil! JH Yes, Véronique from Quebec and Will Predhomme from Ontario travelled to Brazil for the Best of the Americas competition, where Véronique took the title of Best Sommelier of the Americas. Canada has won the Americas twice in a row—the first winner was Élyse Lambert. In March 2013, Canada will be in Japan for the world competition, with Véronique representing all of the Americas and Will representing Canada. This is the most prestigious title, and it happens only every three years. One of the benefits of having an association like CAPS is that we can cultivate Sommeliers who have the potential to compete on the world stage. We have access to wine from all over the world and we are used to tasting thousands of wines every single year. I think Canada is exceptional on that level: we have access to good prices, good wines, and good chefs.

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TJ That is one of the best things about Canada: we have an international selection because we don’t just concentrate on one region or one area. For example, if you’re in France, you really only know French wines, and maybe a little bit about the rest of the world. But in Canada, we know about the entire world and that’s something really important to celebrate. JH This is why we are so good at competitions. Our palate is not only focused on specific wines, it’s open to every kind of taste. TJ As president of CAPS, can you tell us about its principles, and why are you so excited to be involved? JH When I started my Master Sommelier, I was working at Charlie Trotter’s, and the customers didn’t want to be served by me if I didn’t wear my Sommelier’s pin. When I came back to Canada, I realized how important it is to be part of an association, where everyone in the wine industry can get together to network. CAPS started 23 years ago, in 1989, and was focused mostly in Quebec. We have really just started moving it to the national level, which is what is so exciting. It is also important that the association be recognized by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI). We want to cultivate and promote the potential that

we have in Canada, through events like the Canadian Sommelier of the Year competition, but we are also looking at promoting CAPS at the international level. I just started as the new Vice President of Pan Americas for ASI. We will be very involved in eight wine-producing countries in the Americas. Our main focus will be to develop the U.S. markets next year. So Canada will be very involved from a Pan-American political point of view, promoting wine. TJ Congratulations! That’s very exciting! JH Thank you! Congratulations to you, Tina, and your great team at Banville & Jones! Because of your efforts, CAPS Manitoba is part of the national CAPS team. It’s very exciting to finish my year as president of CAPS by making it a national organization. When I am done my term, the presidency will rotate through the regional chapters, so it’s always going to be democratic and clean. The organization is very good for Canada, and very good for our wine industry.  For more information on the Sommelier of the Year competition, see Sylvia Jansen’s Sidebar on page 63. For more information on how to get involved with the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers, visit the website at

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KITCHEN Photos by Ian McCausland

With an issue of The Cellar Door devoted to the international Pinot Noir, the usual confines of Test Kitchen were not enough. The editors instead chose to showcase the noble grape variety by issuing a food and wine pairing challenge. We assembled three teams and challenged them to find the perfect Pinot Noir pairing: a beautiful creation from a top chef, and a wine expert’s Pinot Noir to match. Three judges volunteered their time and their palates for the competition.

The Judges Tina Jones Owner, Banville & Jones Wine Co. Gary Hewitt Sommelier Andrea Eby Sommelier

The Teams Chef Simon Resch (Terrace Restaurant) and Sylvia Jansen Chef Tristan Foucault (Peasant Cookery) and Jill Kwiatkoski Chef Fraser McLeod (529 Wellington) and Sarah Kenyon

The food and wine pairs* Team Resch/Jansen The Dish: Roasted butternut squash gnocchi with glazed cippolini onions, Sandiland forest mushrooms, Pinot Noir reduction, lightly smoked Oka foam, roasted carrots and a smooth puree of tarragon Wine Pairing: Domaine Arlaud 2010 Roncevie Burgundy ($33.99) Team Foucault/Kwiatkoski The Dish: Quail breast stuffed with quail sausage, potato, melted onion bacon hash, bing cherry, cranberry sauce, glazed chestnuts, and smoked marcona almond sauce Wine Pairing: Cristom 2009 Mt. Jefferson CuvĂŠe Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA ($39.99) Team McLeod/Kenyon The Dish: Oven-roasted Manitoba rack of lamb with Cabernet sauce and pan-fried potatoes * Detailed recipes for each of the dishes can be found at

Wine Pairing: Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Galpin Peak Pinot Noir Walker Bay, South Africa ($65.99) 41

The Judgment The judges tasted and sipped their way through all three team combinations. Their deliberation resulted in not one winner, but three! Each dish was brilliantly created and beautifully presented. Each wine was the perfect companion to the dish it matched. In fact, only the Pinot Noir paired with each dish was a winner with that dish. Finally, the judges had to admit that the teams had done their jobs so well, that there was no single winner—there were three winners.

Team Resch/Jansen Roasted butternut squash gnocchi with glazed cippolini onions, Sandiland forest mushrooms, Pinot Noir reduction, lightly smoked Oka foam, roasted carrots and a smooth puree of tarragon, served with Domaine Arlaud 2010 Roncevie Burgundy. This is a great vintage year. Refined tannins make an attractive balance in this young wine that can be consumed right away—but try cellaring a couple of bottles to see how it develops. It has nice acidity and lively young fruit, floral notes, and a great finish. Though it carries some earthy tones, this wine represents the fruity character of Pinot Noir. Winning flavours: You might be inclined to pair a white with this dish, but this Pinot Noir is an amazing match in intensity, weight, and flavours for the gnocchi. The Oka foam has a lot of impact—it brings out a weightiness in the wine and brings out a creamy texture. The wine picks up the cinnamon and nutmeg in the dish, and the mushroom brings out the fruit in the wine.


Team Foucault/Kwiatkoski Quail breast stuffed with quail sausage, potato, melted onion bacon hash, bing cherry, cranberry sauce, glazed chestnuts, and smoked marcona almond sauce, served with Cristom 2009 Mt. Jefferson CuvĂŠe Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA. This is a bigger wine with more alcohol and a terrific, persistent, savoury finish. This tastes like it has had some more age in the barrel than the Galpin Peak. You can detect the herbaceous note that is characteristic of Cristom, and the earthiness really comes through in notes of mushroom, dried grass, and underbrush. This wine is a little wilder than the Roncevie, with the fruit coming through in dried cherry notes. Winning flavours: This pairing is a marriage made in heaven: the cranberry and bing cherry flavours in the sauce, along with the thyme, really echo the flavours of the wine. The dish is really characteristic of fall flavours, and plays off the earthy notes of the wine. The dish makes me want to smell the wine, which echoes back all the notes in the dish. The almond sauce brings out so many flavours in the wine: smokiness, underbrush, and exotic spices, like cardamom. 43

Team McLeod/Kenyon Oven-roasted Manitoba rack of lamb with Cabernet sauce and pan-fried potatoes with Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Galpin Peak Pinot Noir Walker Bay, South Africa This is a meatier Pinot Noir than the first two. It is a Pinot Noir for Napa Cabernet fans. The rich fruit is darker—black cherry and raspberry with a fresh citrus hit on the palate. The wine is tasting young, with its acidity currently standing out, and there is a distinct lushness about it—rather than dancing across the tongue, it pushes down and makes itself known. This wine is made for aging. Winning flavours: The wine doesn’t seem as big when paired with the dish because the weight and intensity of the wine are so perfect, they just balance each other out. The elements of the dish are also lovely with the wine: it brings out the caramelized quality of the potatoes, and the rosemary and Dijon really pop. This — is such a classic pairing, and for good reason.

See for the chefs’ detailed recipes.


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gluggy By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW

tribute to a miracle This is a tribute to the miracle of gluggy wine under $15—in particular, a tribute to red gluggies. (Now, there are those who believe that I never taste wines under $15, but just between you and me, they are wrong.) Really good inexpensive wines in the under-$15 range are true miracles. To arrive on the Manitoba market at under $15, a wine must be produced with a ridiculously tight budget for the grower and the winemaker; it has to be shipped in heavy, breakable glass, using fuel and money to get here; it has to go through imports, taxes and levies; and it has to provide some, however modest, margin for the people handling it from start to finish. Face it: to make a great wine that sells in our market under $15 takes genius. There are two main requirements for great gluggy: 1. The wine must offer a nice balance, an easy drinkability, and a modest price tag. 2. The wine must reflect its place of origin with honesty. The first of these requirements is straightforward. Inexpensive wine does not need to be deep, complex, brooding or sexy: it just needs to be nicely quaffable and easy going, both in the glass and on the pocketbook. The second requirement—to reflect its place of origin honestly—is a bit more complex. I am not talking about romantic notions of an $11 wine magically transporting you back to your holiday in Napa. I am talking about the personality of place. A modestly priced wine from Spain, France, or Italy should not taste just like the modestly priced wine from the same varieties out of California, Australia, or Chile—and vice versa. It should have a good regionality. Grapes destined for great gluggy do not need to come from octogenarian vines, producing tiny bundles of


Try these little miracles in a bottle: Italy: Vallone 2007 Flaminio Brindisi Riserva Puglia........................................... $14.99 Botter 2011 OGGI Primitivo Puglia......... $11.99 Spain: Torre San Millan 2011 Gorrebusto Tempranillo Rioja......................................................... $11.99 France: Laudun Chusclan 2009 Les Costes Côtes du Rhône......................................... $13.99 USA: Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Coastal Estates Zinfandel California.................................. $13.99 Australia: Milton Park 2010 Shiraz........................... $14.99 Argentina: Catena 2011 Alamos Malbec Mendoza................................................... $14.99 Chile: Ventisquero 2011 Reserva Carménère Colchagua Valley...................................... $11.99

unbelievable grapes, because a certain quantity of production is gluggy’s friend. Nor does great gluggy need to hibernate for a winter or two in expensive new oak barrels, tying up the producer’s cash flow. (Mind you, dusty, musty old equipment, or wine made in the chemistry lab are not good steps on the path to great gluggy, either.) Great gluggy is a good expression of the grape variety (or grape varieties) in the bottle. It finishes its fermentation, rests for awhile, gets polished up, poured into its bottles, and goes out the door, ready to meet you for dinner on a Tuesday night. Allow me to pay tribute to just a few great gluggies I know. One of them is a Spanish gem, Torre San Millan Gorrebusto, a nice Tempranillo with a good cherry core and a spicy little edge. Across the border takes us to a wine from the warm south of France, Les Costes Côtes du Rhône. If you want a smart Californian to cozy up with on a cool evening, try the BV Coastal Zinfandel: ripe, full of fruit and smooth. From Argentina, a bright Malbec from Alamos is a generous addition to the table. And the great thing is that none of these wines taste like each other. It is a new miracle in  every glass.

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By Andrea Eby, Sommelier (ISG, CSW) Some grapes like to travel. Varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are quick to dash off to the latest viticultural “it” spot, eager to strut their stuff and prove just how adaptable they are. Blessed with a penchant for making easy-drinking, recognizable wines in all but the most extreme climates, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay can be found thriving in nearly every New World wine region. The same cannot be said for Pinot Noir. Infinitely more anxious than Cab Sauv or Chard, Pinot Noir tends to do a LOT of research before it jumps on a plane.

Photo by Carol Fletcher

My Roots

The Holy Land Pinot Noir grew up in the bucolic corner of France, known as the Côte d’Or (Golden Slope). Here, it has produced some of the world’s most iconic wines. With archeological evidence suggesting that viticulture has been practiced in the area since the second century CE, Pinot Noir has had plenty of time to make itself at home. Since the responsibility for these historic vineyards passed into the control of the Catholic Church in the Middle Ages, Pinot Noir has been perfecting its craft in the legendary vineyards. The Pinot Noirs of Burgundy are fabled for their sensual perfumes, earthy subtleties and silky tannins. For centuries, winemakers have chased after the perfect Pinot Noir, like Indiana


Jones after the Holy Grail. Many would claim that you haven’t really made wine until you’ve made a great Pinot Noir. As a result of winemaker passion and consumer desire, Pinot Noir has been forced to travel far from its homeland in Burgundy. Although Pinot Noir has now done its fair share of travelling, it remains a grape variety that is extremely picky about where it stays—no threestar accommodations for Pinot Noir. The thousands of years that the grape has spent adapting to the marginal climates of Burgundy and Champagne have had a definite effect. Unlike its friends Cabernet and Chardonnay, Pinot Noir thrives in more extreme areas—viticultural zones on the edge.

The Oregon Trail

The Cristom V in beautiful in th eyard in Willamette Valley e fall. October is is the key mon Oregon—four th in or can mean the five days of warmth in Octo ber dif and a great on ference between a good Pin ot e! -PN Photo by John

D’Anna, Cristo

m Vineyards

One of the areas that has developed a reputation for producing world-class Pinot Noirs is Oregon’s Willamette Valley. In the early 1960s, winemakers were defecting from California because they strongly believed in Oregon’s potential to become a world-class wine region (against the advice of many experts). These rogue winemakers left California in search of cooler, more marginal vineyard sites. By 1979, Oregonian Pinot Noir was making headlines. In a grand tasting in Paris, Pinots from around the world were tasted alongside their more famous French counterparts. After placing in the top ten of the competition a rematch was held, wherein the Oregon Pinot Noir came in second, less than a point shy of the winning Chambole-Musigny from Burgundy. Since that historic tasting, the Oregon Pinot Noir industry has continued to develop and garner international acclaim. To describe a “typical” Oregon Pinot Noir would be difficult, as a range


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of styles exist, based on clonal selections, vineyard characteristics, and winemaking choices. They range from the bigger, bolder, more oak-influenced wines of iconic producer Domaine Serene to the more elegant, Burgundian-inspired wines of Cristom. Even the world’s most famous wine critic, Robert Parker Jr., has faith in Oregon’s potential, having invested in a winery there in 1986!

South of the Border Another location that Pinot Noir has chosen to set up camp is New Zealand. Once most famous for its pungent, tropical and tasty Sauvignon Blancs, New Zealand

The area of Bannockburn, whose landscape was forever altered by the mining of its alluvial goldfields in the 1860s, benefits from some of the area’s highest summer temperatures, and the lack of rainfall ensures that humidity is never a viticultural hazard. Wineries such as Mount Difficulty and Felton Road turn out world-class Pinot Noirs in this extreme environment. With a slightly more humid climate, Gibbston is also home to many renowned wineries. Producers such as Peregrine and Waitiri Creek take advantage of the longer growing season, which produces concentrated fruit and deeply coloured wines.

Otago, New Zealand has also been quietly making a name for itself in the production of world-class Pinot Noir. As the most widely planted red grape variety in New Zealand, Pinot Noir appears to have much potential. At 45° south of the equator, Central Otogo (the most renowned Pinot-producing region in New Zealand) qualifies as the most southerly wine-growing region in the world. Adding to the extremes is the fact that the vineyards of Central Otogo are also New Zealand’s highest, in terms of elevation. Pinot Noir also seems to enjoy the large diurnal temperature swings that Central Otogo is known for. The sizeable differences between day and nighttime temperatures are credited with contributing depth of colour and flavour intensity to the grapes. Life for Pinot Noir is not always easy in Central Otogo. The extreme landscape of the area means that frost is a constant threat and many viticulturists commonly adopt frost-prevention measures.


Dearest Mum , The rugged lan large temperatud and in Central Oto re swings really digging go mean deep to produc my roots the silkiest Pine some of outside of Bur ot Noirs gundy. -PN

Staycation Canada’s Niagara Peninsula also offers the passionate Pinot lover a multitude of world-class wines to enjoy. Although grapes have been produced in the area for over 200 years, it is only in the last 10 that many producers appear to have found their groove. It is becoming increasingly apparent that cool-climate grape varieties such as Pinot Noir may be the ticket to the development of a world-class fine wine region. Pinot Noir appears to particularly enjoy spending its time in the area surrounding the hamlet of Niagaraon-the-Lake. Here, diverse soils provide drainage and mineral content, and the constant influence of breezes off nearby Lake Ontario plays a vital role in frost prevention. Producers such as Tawse and Le Clos Jordanne have been wowing consumers and critics alike with their decidedly Burgundian-style offerings.

Burgundy (Beaune): Restaurant: Caves Madeleine à Beaune. Reservations are a must. Hotel: Les Jardins de Lois, a quaint B&B with its own vineyards Wines: Domaine Rollin 2009 PernandVergelesses AC, France $29.99; Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand 2009 Echézeaux Grand Cru AC, France $179.99 Willamette Valley:

Winemaker Sebastian Jacquey at Le Clos Jordan ne. Photo by Ste phen Elphick

Mom, The Niagara cool climate a Bench’s unique soils rnd allow me to sh eally the various terowcase the region. -P roirs of N

Restaurant: The Joel Palmer House in Dayton, Oregon. The wine list features a great selection of Oregon wines. Hotel: Allison Inn & Spa in Newburg, Oregon Wines: Argyle 2010 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, USA $35.99; Cristom 2009 Louise Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley, USA $62.99 Central Otago (nearest city: Queenstown): Restaurant: Vknow, a quaint little bistro, with a great selection of wines. Hotel: The Dairy in Queenstown

Perhaps one of the most alluring aspects of this area is that many of the region’s top bottlings remain reasonably priced and have yet to reach the cult status of many of their Burgundian cousins. While Burgundy may remain the home of Pinot Noir, this is a grape variety that has learned to travel. As the winemaker’s quest for the holy grail of Pinot Noir continues, consumers are the ultimate beneficiaries. Never before has there been such a selection of finely crafted Pinot Noirs available from around the globe. Whatever your tastes may be, there is a Pinot Noir out there made just for you, so grab your fedora and hit the trail. Happy travels. —

Wines: Watch for a selection of Central Otago wines that will be hitting our shelves! Niagara-on-the-Lake: Restaurant: Ravine Winery Restaurant, local flavours with French flare. Hotel: Harbour House Hotel Wines: Tawse 2009 Grower’s Blend Pinot Noir Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $35.99; Le Clos Jordanne 2007 Le Grand Clos Twenty Mile Bench Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $72.99

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Wine & Food Evening

nd Causla

Banville & Jones invites you to join us for Manitoba’s best wine and food pairing! Our talented Sommeliers work with Winnipeg’s most talented chefs to create the ultimate pairing experience. Cost: $79.99 per person Saturday, February 9: Wasabi Sabi Thursday, February 14: Amici Restaurant Thursday, February 28: Arkadash Bistro & Lounge Saturday, March 9: The Velvet Glove Friday, March 15: Elements Friday, April 12: Terrace in the Park Friday, April 26: All Seasons Friday, May 3: The Current at Inn at the Forks Thursday, May 23: Urban Prairie Sunday, June 2: Peasant Cookery Friday, June 28: Elements

banville & jones

wine & food

events schedule February 2013 through June 2013

Store owner Tina Jones, chef Marisa Curatolo, and photographer Pauline Boldt have teamed up as “le tre” to bring together their three art forms in a memorable evening of education, laughter, friendship, and of course, amazing food and wine! Cost: $100.00 per person Thursday, May 30

Cooking Class Learn from the best! Banville & Jones Sommeliers team up with Winnipeg’s premier chefs to share recipes and wine pairings. Cost: $89.99 per person Wednesday, February 20: Pizzeria Gusto Wednesday, April 17: Cafe Savour Thursday, May 9: All Seasons Thursday, June 6: Amici Restaurant

Luxury Tasting

Wine & Flavours

Taste the luxury when our Sommeliers open the doors to our specialities cabinets to explore some of Banville & Jones’s exclusive treasures. Cost: $99.00 per person

Finding the right words to describe flavours and aromas can be challenging, but extremely rewarding! This new series of events is fun, casual, and educational, as we learn to become better tasters of both food and wine. Treat your palate to an evening of sensational wines and specialty snacks! Cost: $44.99 per person

Friday, February 8: Seductive Reds Thursday, March 14: Sommeliers’ Picks Saturday, April 20: Bubbly & Dessert (In the Cave) Friday, May 24: Aussie Rules Saturday, June 15: Red, White, and... Blue? (In the Cave)

Click on the Taste and Learn tab at for updated information on Food and Wine Events. To reserve a space or book a private wine tasting event, call 948-WINE • Tickets for events are non-refundable, but are exchangeable 14 days prior to the event. • Events begin at 7 pm unless otherwise noted. • Prices do not include taxes.


le tre: An Evening of Wine, Food, and Photography

Friday, February 22: Wine & Chocolate Saturday, March 23: Wine & Cheese Saturday, April 6: Wine & Dips Friday, May 31: Wine & Charcuterie Friday, June 14: Wine & Patio Snacks






Savour a 3 or 5 course meal,

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banville & jones

wine institute

From our own Banville & Jones Wine Basics programs, to the Wine & Spirits Education Trust® (WSET®) programs, to the Society of Wine Educators, to CAPS Professional Sommelier programs, we offer wine education for every interest level and skill. Whether you are a wine lover looking for a fun evening of learning, or a wine student seeking a professional career, Banville & Jones Wine Institute (BJWI) is your destination. For more information on any of our courses, go to and click on “Taste and Learn.”

Professional Sommelier Program

Photo by Ian McCausland

Wine Specialist 100 (No prerequisite; acceptance on a first-come basis)

BJWI Professional Sommelier Program—CAPS Certified (Prerequisites: WS 200; or WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits; or ISG 2: acceptance based on individual applications)

WS 100 is an entry-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the world-renowned WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program also includes basic instruction in restaurant wine service. Topics include WSET® Level 2 Systematic Approach to Tasting; significant grape varieties; factors that influence wine styles; major wine regions; sparkling, sweet and fortified wines; spirits; food and wine matching; and basic wine service. WS 100 is the first of two prerequisites for the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program. Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 8 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm, plus a 1.5 hour exam on the 9th week. September 16, 2013 (Mondays) Cost: $600 plus GST

Wine Steward 200 (Prerequisites: WS 100; WSET® Level 2 Award in Wines & Spirits or ISG 1; acceptance on a first-come basis) WS 200 is an advanced-level program for wine enthusiasts and for people interested in restaurant, hospitality, and wine trade vocations. Based on the world-renowned WSET® Level 3 Award in Wines & Spirits, the program also includes intermediate instruction in restaurant wine service. WSET Level 3 builds on the topics of WSET® Level 2 to create a greater depth of knowledge and experience. WS 200 is the second of two prerequisites for the BJWI-CAPS Professional Sommelier Program. Duration: 2.5 hours, once a week for 18 weeks, 6:30 to 9:00 pm September 17, 2013 (Tuesdays) Cost: $1,200 plus GST


The PSP is an in-depth, rigorous and challenging program recognized by CAPS (Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers), a nation member of ASI (Association de la Sommellerie Internationale). The program covers knowledge and service of wine, spirits, beer, and other beverages; sensory theory and evaluation; food and wine interactions; the business of wine; and management of a restaurant wine program. The course includes 25 classes, one full-day per class, over 9 months; extra exam days; take-home projects, case studies, and examinations. In addition, students are required to arrange a 60-hour practicum under supervision in a restaurant-hospitality environment. Graduates receive a professional Sommelier designation recognized by CAPS and ASI. A PSP is currently in progress: the next PSP start date is TBA. Current cost: $3,250 plus GST

• Register for all courses at Banville & Jones, 204-948-WINE (9463) or inquire at • For full course descriptions, please visit and click on “Taste and Learn.” • Watch for further information on the CAPS Manitoba chapter!


Beyond Basics, Level 2

This course is for anyone who enjoys wine and wants to know more. The two evenings focus on: tasting wines from major grape varieties, putting words to wine tastes, discovering how quality affects price, navigating restaurant wine lists, and the basics of food and wine. Classes run 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones. February 13 & 20 or April 3 & 10 or May 1 & 8 (all Wednesdays) Cost: $79.00, plus GST

An intermediate course that builds on the knowledge gained in Level 1. This course covers: why place matters: tasting through the world’s main wine regions; as well as sparkling, Champagne, Ports and fortified wines. Four nights of classes run 7:00 to 9:00 pm in the Tuscan Room of Banville & Jones. February 27, March 6, 13, 29, 2013 (Wednesdays) Cost: $159.00, plus GST

Register for Basics courses by calling Banville & Jones at 204-948-WINE (9463) or inquire at Gift cards are available for all Banville & Jones Wine Institute courses.

Red River College Seminars Banville & Jones is partnering with Red River College to bring exciting wine seminars to their Continuing Education Programs. (Open to all) North South East West (RRC course #SEMR 1026) With a little knowledge of specific wine regions, you can predict the style of wines by knowing if the

grapes grew in a cool or warm climate and if they come from the Old World or New. Led by a Banville & Jones Certified Sommelier, this workshop tasting includes six wines and is designed to enhance your ability to select wine styles with ease. Saturday, February 23, 2013 1:00 pm to 4:00 pm Cost: $59.00, plus GST Location: Paterson Global Foods Institute Advanced Food and Wine for Chefs and Wine Lovers (RRC course #SEMR 1024) In workshop format, this class will examine emerging approaches to food and wine harmony. Through tasting vital components and wine styles, participants will learn how key ingredients and food preparations create either beautiful harmonies or disastrous consequences for the dining experience. This course is designed for chefs; however it is also appropriate for anyone passionate about food and wine. Thursday, March 21 or Monday May 13 6:00 pm to 9:00 pm Cost: $59.00, plus GST Location: Paterson Global Foods Institute

Photo by Ian McCausland

Photo by Ian McCausland

Aperitif to Dessert for Wine Enthusiasts (RRC course #SEMR 1027) Stuck on a few familiar wines? Led by your Banville & Jones Certified Sommelier, learn tips for designing fabulous menus, based on great wine choices for each course, and how to relate one course to the next. Taste a broad range of wine styles (six wines are included in this tasting) and discover how you can wow your guests throughout the meal. Saturday, May 4, 2013 1:00 pm to 4:00 pm Cost: $59.00, plus GST Location: Paterson Global Foods Institute

To register, go to the Taste and Learn tab at and follow the link to Red River College registration. 57

Decanter Cleaning Pearls $16.99 These 500 stainless steel pearls will hit those impossible-to-reach spots in your decanter for a thorough cleaning.

Flair Wine Preserving Pump and Elite Wine Stoppers $16.99 The best way to preserve your open wine is to pump out the oxygen and seal it with Elite wine stoppers.

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Chrome Decanter Dryer $11.99 This decanter drying stand collapses to fit into any drawer for easy storage.

Laguiole Horn Corkscrew $29.99 With a tempered steel groove spiral, serrated blade, and black horn accents, this corkscrew is the sleekest and most durable one you will own. Wine Glass Drying Mats $9.99 Eliminate breakage and spots using these unique wine glass drying mats. 58

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Purchase gift cards securely online at To book an appointment, call 204.944.2444 Monday - Saturday 9-9 Sunday 10-6 75 Forks Market Road, Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada R3C 0A2

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2012-12-19 9:17 AM

culinary partners

529 Wellington serves only Canadian Prime beef and fresh seafood, with impeccable service in an elegantly restored 1912 mansion on the banks of the Assiniboine River. Celebrating its 10th Anniversary, 529 has quickly become a world-renowned icon in the restaurant industry. An exquisite menu and extensive wine cellar make for truly memorable food and wine experiences at 529. Just ask Brad Pitt or Jennifer Lopez!

Chef Louise Briskie-de Beer and partner Faiz de Beer love to share the fruits of their travels by bringing global cuisine with Manitoba flare to your palate. Cafe Savour’s atmosphere is as unique and delightful as the food, perfect for an intimate, formal dinner for two or a group of friends out to enjoy a casual evening of relaxing laughter. Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday starting at 5:30pm for dinner.

529 Wellington Crescent 204.487.8325

956 St Mary’s Road 204.254.4681

Sam Colosimo welcomes everyone like they are family to his Italian bistro in the Exchange District: Brooklynn’s Bistro. Named after his adorable daughter, this destination offers fine dining, contemporary décor, authentic Italian food, and an impressive wine list. Brooklynn’s menu changes seasonally to offer the best regional produce, meat, and fish that Manitoba has to offer. Visit Brooklynn’s for lunch or dinner, or drop by Boa Lounge for an exciting night out. Buon appetito!

Chef partner Tristan Foucault has reinvented the menu on the corner of King and Bannatyne. Peasant Cookery goes back to the land with uniquely prepared Old World dishes and top-notch service. This is real food, freshly harvested, and the seasonal ingredients speak for themselves. Literally everything is made from scratch by Tristan and his team.

177 Lombard Avenue 204.415.4112


100-283 Bannatyne Avenue 204.989.7700

Step’N Out is the most uniquely intimate restaurant sur le boulevard in St. Boniface. The rich décor, personalized hand-written menu board, innovative cuisine, and wine list are inspiring and romantic, making loyal patrons out of most every visitor for 13 years. Travel the two minutes from downtown to experience their gluten-free options in the most unique ambiance in the city. 157 Provencher Boulevard 204.956.7837

Step into the Atrium of the Assiniboine Park Pavilion and you will find yourself in the warm and inviting atmosphere of Terrace Restaurant. Relax and enjoy a glass of wine while Chef Simon Resch tantalizes you with his exciting new menu. Chef Resch and WOW! Hospitality are offering a oneof-a-kind seafood experience to Winnipeg: the very best quality fish and shellfish that have been harvested using sustainable, environmentally friendly methods. Unit B, in the Pavilion at Assiniboine Park 204.938.7275

Amici at Niakwa Golf Club

Los Chicos Restaurante Y Cantina

With a bright, sunny view of The Forks, The Current is the perfect place to wind down after work or host visiting guests to the city. Experience a deliciously Canadian gourmet menu, complemented by an award-winning wine list. The lounge also offers live jazz Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings.

Amici Restaurant

Mulligans Restaurant and Lounge

Arkadash Bistro Lounge

Olive Garden Italian Restaurant

Blaze Bistro

Pizzeria Gusto


Purple Hibiscus

Café Dario

Red River College and Prairie

75 Forks Market Road 204.922.2445

Diana’s Pizza

Winnipeg’s premier sushi destination: Wasabi Sabi. For a bite of lunch on-the-go, or a long, lingering meal at the chef’s table, the Wasabi Group offers unforgettable sushi, appetizers, entrées, drink specials, and desserts. Visit Wasabi Sabi for Happy Hour, Monday to Saturday, 3 to 6 pm to sample the delicate flavours of Chef Osten Rice, winner of the 2012 Gold Medal Plates competition. 3-1360 Taylor Avenue 204.415.7878

Lights Restaurant


Rembrandt’s Bistro

Elkhorn Resort

Sabai Thai

Earl’s Restaurant and Bar



St. Charles Country Club

Hotel Fort Garry and Ten Spa


Hy’s Steakhouse

The Velvet Glove at the Fairmont

Joey Kenaston

TR McCoy’s Italian Restaurant

Joey Polo Park

The Victoria Inn

Joey’s Only Seafood

Tony Roma’s

Le Cercle Molière

Urban Prairie Cuisine

buon appetito! Cuisine “which is deceptively simple, but characterized by an impressive attention to detail.” — Marion Warhaft 4 1/2 stars

Traditional Italian cuisine artistically executed to deliver the freshest regional ingredients.


177 Lombard Avenue • 415-4112 • • For menus and online reservations:

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By Sylvia Jansen, Sommelier (ISG, CMS), CSW

William Predhomme and Véronique Rivest at the “Best Sommelier of the Americas” in Buenos Aires. Photo by Martin Ayotte,CAPS/ACSP Quebec

Canada’s Best Sommelier, 2012 The video cameras streaming online operated in silence. Cameras clicked and photographers snuck around quietly to get a better shot. The faces of seven judges stared. The fifty or so guests in the room sat on the edges of their seats. Lapel microphones projected the voices of participants throughout the room; otherwise, only the tinkle of glassware and the movement of the Sommelier cut through the strained silence. It was the final competition round of the 2012 Inniskillin Best Sommelier of Canada Competition. Three people were in the final round. They had already undergone written, service, and blind tasting exams to get here. One by one, the finalists came out to the competition stage. Over the course of an hour, the Sommeliers served tables in a mock restaurant setting, opened Champagne, decanted red wine, offered expert advice in response to impossible questions, then corrected a wine list on the spot, poured a small bottle of wine evenly into ten glasses without doubling back, and did an oral blind tasting of a set of wines and spirits, all in front of an audience, with a skinny time allotment for each task. Did I also mention that every competitor had to do the whole exercise in his or her second language? Somewhere near the beginning of the first competitor’s tasks, I thought to myself, how crazy is this? Any minute one of those mock guests is going to ask her to give them the total vineyard acreage in Slovenia for the year 2012. Then one of the mock guests asked for four separate wines for their table, to match four different dishes, with each wine from a different country, and each from a country that has hosted the International Sommelier of

the Year competition. I thought at that moment I might faint. But these brave people actually had good answers. Fainting was not really an option. The Sommelier competition rewards great service, and showcases dedication, professionalism, and high standards in the Sommelier profession. The competition did just that: the top Sommelier was someone who knew her stuff, who recovered nicely from wrinkles in arrangements, who dealt with impossible guests with incredible grace and good humour, and who had the skill to make it clear she was working to help everyone have a good time. The winner was Véronique Rivest from Quebec. Along with second place, William Predhomme from Toronto, Véronique earned the right to go to Brazil in October for the Best Sommelier of the Americas competition, where she also won top honours. Véronique will represent the Americas at the World Competition next year in Japan; William will represent Canada. Some mock guest out there is waiting to ask a question about vineyard acreage in Slovenia. It is all fair game, really: the Sommelier’s job is to be the library you get to open because a question occurs to you off the top of your head; to know, inside and out, the wine and beverages that will help make your particular meal memorable, and to be gracious under pressure. So the next time you encounter a Sommelier who offers to help, take them up on it. Ask a question about that little village in France you visited last year. Ask the Sommelier to help select a nice wine within your budget. Your Sommelier will be up to the task, because we know Véronique has set the bar high. So here’s to you, with grace and good humour. 63

shopping list ‰‰ Argyle 2010 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, USA $35.99............................................................................................................ 51 ‰‰ Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Coastal Estates Zinfandel California, USA $13.99.............................................................................. 46 ‰‰ Blackbird Vineyards 2009 Arise Proprietary Red Wine Napa Valley, USA $66.99..................................................................... 66 ‰‰ Botter 2011 OGGI Primitivo Puglia, Italy $11.99..................................................................................................................... 46 ‰‰ Bouchard Finlayson 2010 Galpin Peak Pinot Noir Walker Bay, South Africa $65.99................................................................ 44 ‰‰ Carlos Basso 2010 Dos Fincas Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $14.99......................................................... 66 ‰‰ Catena 2011 Alamos Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $14.99........................................................................................................ 46 ‰‰ Francesca Callegaro nv Fior D’Arancio Colli Euganei, Italy $18.99........................................................................................... 13 ‰‰ Cristom 2009 Mt Jefferson Cuvée Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA $34.99............................................................. 43 ‰‰ Cristom 2009 Louise Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA $62.99....................................... 51 ‰‰ Domaine Arlaud 2010 Roncevie Burgundy $33.99.................................................................................................................... 42 ‰‰ Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand 2009 Echézeaux Grand Cru AC, France $179.99................................................................... 51 ‰‰ Domaine Rollin 2009 Pernand-Vergelesses AC, France $29.99.................................................................................................. 51 ‰‰ Domaine Serene 2009 Evenstad Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA $99.99................................................................ 26 ‰‰ Donnafugata 2011 Kabir Sicily, Italy $20.99............................................................................................................................. 66 ‰‰ Donnafugata 2010 Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria Sicily, Italy $40.99........................................................................................ 66 ‰‰ Innocent Bystander 2010 Cordon Cut Viognier Yarra Valley, Australia $19.99......................................................................... 13 ‰‰ Johan Vineyards 2009 Estate Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA $43.99..................................................................... 26 ‰‰ Laudun Chusclan 2009 Les Costes Côtes du Rhône AC, France $13.99.................................................................................... 46 ‰‰ Le Clos Jordanne 2007 Le Grand Clos Twenty Mile Bench Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $72.99....................................... 51 ‰‰ Michel Torino 2010 Late Harvest Torrontes Salta, Argentina $12.99........................................................................................ 13 ‰‰ Michele Satta 2010 Bolgheri Rosso Italy, $21.99....................................................................................................................... 66 ‰‰ Milton Park 2010 Shiraz South Australia $14.99....................................................................................................................... 46 ‰‰ Ployez-Jacquemart nv Brut Champagne, France $55.99 ............................................................................................................ 66 ‰‰ Provenza 2010 Tenuta Maiolo Rosso Lugana DOC, Italy $21.99.............................................................................................. 66 ‰‰ Quinta de Ventozelo nv Reserva Tawny Port, Portugal $23.99.................................................................................................. 13 ‰‰ Simonsig 2010 Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé, South Africa $21.99 ................................................................................................ 13 ‰‰ Tawse 2009 Grower’s Blend Pinot Noir Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $35.99.............................................................. 17, 51 ‰‰ Tawse 2010 Quarry Road Pinot Noir Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $39.99....................................................................... 17 ‰‰ Tawse 2010 Laidlaw Pinot Noir Niagara Peninsula VQA, Canada $49.99................................................................................ 17 ‰‰ Torre San Millan 2011 Gorrebusto Tempranillo Rioja DOC, Spain $11.99............................................................................... 46 ‰‰ Trudeau Wine Glass Drying Mats $9.99................................................................................................................................... 58 ‰‰ Trudeau Wine Preserving Pump and Wine Stoppers $16.99....................................................................................................... 58 ‰‰ Trudeau Decanter Cleaning Pearls $16.99................................................................................................................................ 58 ‰‰ Trudeau Chrome Decanter Dryer $11.99.................................................................................................................................. 58 ‰‰ Trudeau Laguiole Corkscrew $29.99........................................................................................................................................ 58 ‰‰ Underwood Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir Oregon, USA $16.99........................................................................................................ 26 ‰‰ Vallone 2007 Flaminio Brindisi Riserva Puglia, Italy $14.99...................................................................................................... 46 ‰‰ Ventisquero 2011 Reserva Carménère Colchagua Valley, Chile $11.99...................................................................................... 46 ‰‰ Zonin nv Primo Amore Moscato Puglia, Italy $18.99................................................................................................................ 13

Due to the nature of the wine industry, any prices and vintages listed in this publication, as well as availability of product, are subject to change and cannot be guaranteed by Banville & Jones Wine Co. 64

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top picks

Sylvia Jansen

Mya Brown

Jennifer Battcock-Coish

Ployez-Jacquemart nv Brut Champagne, France $55.99

Michele Satta 2010 Bolgheri Rosso, Italy $21.99

Carlos Basso 2010 Dos Fincas Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec Mendoza, Argentina $14.99

For a special occasion like Valentine’s Day, make the wine special! PloyezJacquemart is a small Champagne house with a big reputation for brilliant Champagnes. The Brut is a beautiful balance of fruit, brioche, and lemon zest notes, with zippy acidity and minerality, and a long, lovely finish.

This Bolgheri Rosso is a vibrant, fruit-forward blend of Italian and French varietals with bright red currant and blackberry aromas. It has a fresh, lingering acidity, perfect for the dinner table. Enjoy it with some roasted pepper linguini or Moroccan chicken.

Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with Argentina’s favourite grape, Malbec, to make a wine that offers the best of both worlds. Typical of the modernstyle blend made famous from this region, the wine is luscious with intense jammy red and black fruit flavours. It is medium bodied with beautiful, surprisingly soft tannins and notes of spice on the finish.

Saralyn Mehta


Andrew Eastman

Blackbird Vineyards 2009 Arise Proprietary Red Wine Napa Valley, USA $66.99

Provenza 2010 Tenuta Maiolo Rosso Lugana DOC, Italy $21.99

Donnafugata 2011 Kabir Sicily, Italy $20.99

From vineyards hugging the shores of beautiful Lake Garda, comes this unique wine, a blend of Sangiovese, Barbera, Groppello, and Marzemino. These indigenous Italian varieties each contribute something special to make a wine that is greater than the sum of its parts. This gem is full of leather, spice, and everything nice. Medium bodied with layers of complexity, the Tenuta Maiolo is smooth, with plenty of fruit and a pleasant, earthy allure.

This heavenly half-bottle of Zibbibo (aka, Moscato) from the tiny Sicilian island of Pantelleria boasts big aromas and flavours of orange zest, rose, honeydew, and pineapple. Refreshing acidity and a relatively low alcohol content (11.5%) make this medium-sweet treat very versatile, able to be paired not only with desserts, but also alongside a cheese and charcuterie platter. If you get the opportunity, also try its big brother Ben Ryé ($40.99)!

Blackbird Vineyards is a rising star on the boutique winery scene in Napa. The 2009 vintage of their Proprietary Red is a stunning homage to classic Bordeaux blends. Made from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, the wine offers up a lush richness of ripe, dark fruit, and supple tannins. It is an elegant, complex wine sure to leave you with the desire to keep a few in the cellar. Drink now or cellar for up to 8 years.



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The Cellar Door: Issue 14. Pinot Noir. February 2013 - May 2013  

The Cellar Door: Issue 14. Pinot Noir. February 2013 - May 2013

The Cellar Door: Issue 14. Pinot Noir. February 2013 - May 2013  

The Cellar Door: Issue 14. Pinot Noir. February 2013 - May 2013


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