New Books January - June 2015 by V&A Publishing

new books january to june 2015

v&a publishing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; new books january to june 2015

ISBN 987-1-85177-843-0

V&A PUBLISHING The Victoria and Albert Museum’s extraordinarily diverse collections and exhibitions continue to inspire excellence in design, and to excite and inspire the next wave of artists, designers and makers. Our collections are as varied as they are beautiful, with over two million objects and designs providing almost infinite sources of inspiration. V&A Publishing creates beautiful, innovative and authoritative books on design, fashion, applied art, photography, architecture, ceramics, sculpture, painting and graphics, which sell globally. Our superbly designed and beautifully produced books represent the latest research and expertise from the V&A, written by curators and contributing experts. We publish around 30 new books each year, including exhibition catalogues, collection-based titles, general guides, scholarly research, monographs, facsimiles, children’s books and stationery and have a current backlist of over 200 titles. All of our profits are returned to the museum, helping to maintain its position as the world’s leading collection of art and design: funding exhibitions, research and collecting for the future.

CONTENTS 2

Exhibition Titles

Fashion & Textiles

Art & Design

Children’s Books and Stationery

Recent Highlights & Bestsellers

Published Titles

Awards & Prizes

Just Out / Autumn 2014

At a Glance / Spring 2015

Exhibitions

Sales & Distribution Contacts

V&A EXHIBITION AND DISPLAY PROGRAMME THE WEDDING DRESS: 1775–2014 until 15 March 2015 DISOBEDIENT OBJECTS until 1 February 2015

IN BLACK AND WHITE: Prints and Posters from Africa and the Diaspora 29 November 2014 to 6 July 2015

HORST: Photographer of Style 6 September to 4 January 2015

SMALL STORIES: Dolls’ Houses and the History of the Home 11 December 2014 to 6 September 2015 (V&A Museum of Childhood)

CONSTABLE: The Making of a Master 20 September 2014 to 11 January 2015

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: Savage Beauty 14 March to 19 July 2015 SHOES: Pleasure And Pain 13 June 2015 to 31 January 2016

V&A TOURING EXHIBITIONS DAVID BOWIE IS MCA, Chicago 20 September 2014 to 4 January 2015

HOLLYWOOD COSTUME Academy of Motion Pictures, Los Angeles 1 October 2014 to 1 March 2015

Philharmonie de Paris, Cité de la Musique 28 February to 31 May 2015

RECORDING BRITAIN The Herbert Art Gallery, Coventry 30 January to 26 April 2015

ACMI, Melbourne July to October 2015 THE GLAMOUR OF ITALIAN FASHION Minneapolis Institute of Art 26 Oct 2014 to 4 January 2015 Portland Art Museum, Oregon 7 February to 3 May 2015 Frist Centre for the Visual Arts, Nashville 5 June to 7 September 2015

48 exhibitions january – june 2015

The Atkinson Museum & Art Gallery, Southport 9 May to 9 August 2015 UNDRESSED: 350 Years of Underwear in Fashion Queensland Museum, Australia 12 November 2014 to 1 February 2015 Powerhouse Museum, Sydney March to June 2015

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Claire Wilcox, ed. ‘Fashion is a big bubble, and sometimes I feel like popping it.’ Alexander McQueen, 2009 This definitive publication on Alexander McQueen (1969–2010) invites you into the creative mind and world of one of Britain’s most brilliant, daring and provocative designers, and the many themes and references that shaped his visionary fashion collections.

MARCH £45.00 HB ISBN 9781851778270 310 × 240 mm 336pp 350 col BIC: AKT FASHION

Accompanying the V&A’s landmark exhibition Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, and taking the key themes of the exhibition of tailoring, gothic, primitivism, naturalism and futurism, this comprehensive catalogue features previously unseen material as well as groundbreaking essays and feature spreads by multiple authors and leading fashion commentators. This kaleidoscopic approach explores themes central to the designer’s work and his collections, such as the psychology of fashion, natural history, the theatre and spectacle of his shows, and the key creative collaborators during McQueen’s lifetime. Alexander McQueen also offers an encyclopaedic survey of McQueen’s catwalk collections, illustrated with striking images by leading fashion photographers, and specially commissioned photographs that capture the breath-taking skill of his designs and awesome theatricality of his shows. Accompanies Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (14 March to 19 July 2015), developed and expanded from the 2011 blockbuster show at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Claire Wilcox is Senior Curator of the Department of Furniture, Textiles & Fashion at the V&A and Professor of Fashion Curation at the London College of Fashion.

january – june 2015 exhibition titles 3

‘On the technical side it is about cut, proportion and colour. They are the main influences. The cut has to be right. The proportion has to be right. And that is what the technical side is to me, which you don’t expect the public to understand, but that’s what you are there for - you are there to understand it for them.’ Alexander McQueen, 1997

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ABOVE Equi blam, sum doloren issunt aped utam uiducienis as atiossint rehenis a corruptur alitium

â&#x20AC;&#x153;You have a curious way of arousing oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imagination, stimulating all oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nerves, and making oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pulses beat faster. You put an aureole on vice, provided only if it is honest. Your ideal is a daring courtesan of genius. Oh, you are the kind of man who will corrupt a woman to her very last fiber.â&#x20AC;? LEOPOLD VON SACHER-MASOCH, VENUS IN FURS

No. 1

SENSE OF PLACE

january â&#x20AC;&#x201C; june 2015 exhibition titles 5

Shoes

Pleasure and Pain Helen Persson, ed.

Beautiful, sculptural objects, shoes are powerful indicators of gender, status, identity, taste, and even sexual preference. Our choice in shoes can be aspirational, even fantastical – and projects an image not just of who we are, but who we want to be. Feet are made for walking, but shoes may not be. Featuring extensive new photography, this is a beautiful and authoritative guide to the history and culture of footwear. Iconic creations by celebrated designers sit alongside masterpieces by unknown craftsmen in this book. Embracing both men’s and women’s footwear, from the Chinese lotus shoe to laser-printed contemporary shoes-as-sculpture, Shoes: Pleasure and Pain engages with the cultural significance of shoes – the source of their allure, how they are made, and the people who buy and wear them. MAY £25.00 HB ISBN 9781851778324 270 × 216 mm 176pp 180 col BIC: AKT FASHION

Contributors from a wide range of disciplines consider subjects as diverse as ballet slippers and fetishism, shoes and ceramics, traditional shoemaking, and the obsessive shoe collector. The book also includes a comprehensive discussion of the history of shoe design, and case studies including Marie-Antoinette’s shoe collection and the footwear of the Maharajas. Helen Persson is Curator of Chinese Textiles and Dress in the V&A’s Asia Department. Accompanies the V&A exhibition Shoes: Pleasure and Pain, 13 June 2015 to 31 January 2016

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january â&#x20AC;&#x201C; june 2015 exhibition titles

THEA PORTER

Laura McLaws Helms and Venetia Porter ‘Thea’s are the only clothes I never throw away.’ Joan Collins Thea Porter (1927–2000) came to epitomize bohemian chic in 1970s London, developing a unique aesthetic that drew on an eclectic mix of luxurious fabrics, signature dresses and Soho laissez-faire. Born in Jerusalem, she began working as an interior designer before setting up shop on London’s Greek Street.

FEBRUARY £25.00 HB ISBN 9781851778263 270 × 216 mm 160pp 200 col BIC: AKT FASHION

Over the course of several years, she established her combination of fashion and interior design, cultivating clients such as Pink Floyd and The Beatles, alongside Faye Dunaway, Elizabeth Taylor and Barbara Streisand – as well as working for royal patrons including Princess Margaret and the empress of Iran, Farah Diba. Porter was promoted in New York by Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland and her clothes were sold in Giorgio Beverly Hills, while at the same time she was a frequent visitor to the Colony Room, London, the drinking club habituated by Lucien Freud, Francis Bacon and George Melly. Published to accompany the exhibition, Thea Porter: Bohemian Chic at the Fashion & Textile Museum, London, from 6 February to 3 May 2015. Laura McLaws Helms is a fashion historian, based in New York. She is curator of Thea Porter at the Fashion & Textile Museum, London. Venetia Porter is Assistant Keeper of Islamic and Contemporary Middle East Art at the British Museum. She is Thea Porter’s daughter.

Below The uniqueness of Porter’s life experience and personal style offered her novel ways in which to blend traditional Arabian craftsmanship with Orientalist taste

Opposite The uniqueness of Porter’s life experience and personal style offered her novel ways in which to blend traditional Arabian craftsmanship with Orientalist taste

‘My shop almost immediately attracted rich hippies, actors, musicians and their women, who, rummaging excitedly through my fabrics, demanded that I make clothes for them.’ chic Londoners an expertly curated, highly styled sampling of wearable traditional Middle Eastern heritage. In her memoir, Porter wrote: ‘my shop almost immediately attracted rich hippies, actors, musicians and their women, who, rummaging excitedly through my fabrics, demanded that I make clothes for them.’ Porter’s first dress was a replica of a ‘pretty little embroidered kaftan from Aleppo, a 14-year-old’s wedding dress.’ Porter had discovered that she ‘could use many of the same fabrics on women, chairs and on walls. After all it is a form of upholstering, isn’t it?’ Indeed, the first publicity photos for Thea Porter Decorations Ltd were of the actress Fenella Fielding kneeling on a coach upholstered in the same fabric as the kaftan she was wearing. These photographs went on to be printed in several daily newspapers – becoming the first of many times that celebrities would help Thea’s designs gain recognition and sales. (fig. 50) Beyond upholstery fabrics, Porter also found success producing a shirtdress made from embroidery tablecloths made in Damascus – photographed in Vogue in 1969, they were one of the first designs to be produced in more mass numbers due to their popularity. (fig. 426) A man’s jacket was also made from the same cloth. The unexpected flood of fashion commissions that followed this early publicity prompted Porter to stop working as an interior decorator and focus all of her attention on clothes. She was now ‘working at home at weekends, matching fabrics which has always been my passion and sketching designs almost by instinct, and then in the week struggling with pattern-makers, cutters and seamstresses to have them made.’ The Greek Street shop now offered bespoke design for male and female clients, in addition to the small number of ready-made Thea Porter designs (in limited sizes) on the rack. Porter’s designs were distinguished from the general aesthetic of the hippie movement by the high quality of the materials she used: custom details and costly antique fabrics and trimmings justified prices which ranged from £100 to over £1000 per garment during this period (and as high as £3,000 later in her career). Beyond Porter’s own designs and antique

18 London

8 fashion & textiles january – june 2015

10 London

Right The uniqueness of Porter’s life experience and personal style offered her novel ways in which to blend traditional Arabian craftsmanship with Orientalist taste

SHOES

A Brief History Lucy Johnston and Linda Woolley ‘Specially commissioned photography reveals the glorious colours and styles in stunning detail.’ Antiques & Collectibles Changing styles in footwear have always captured the imagination, and communicated the priorities and ambitions of the wearer during the reign of Henry VIII, exaggerated shapes and wide toes were footwear’s reflection of the aggressive social climate of court, while engravings of Queen Victoria show impossibly narrow slippers, worn in pursuit of nineteenthcentury ideals of daintiness.

MAY £8.99 PB REISSUE ISBN 9781851778379 208 × 187 mm 128pp 80 col BIC: AKT FASHION

This colourful book provides an engaging overview of the history of footwear. Shoes and boots that once belonged to wearers male and female, both anonymous and famous, are featured – from battered old ‘chimney shoes’ hidden away for good luck, to the elegant styles of the eighteenth century; from Elizabethan mules to the first stilettos. Lucy Johnston and Linda Woolley are former curators of fashion in the V&A’s Department of Furniture, Textiles and Fashion.

january – june 2015 fashion & textiles 9

CHARLES JAMES Designer in Detail Timothy A. Long ‘If a stitch is crooked, the whole dress is torn to shreds’ Virginia Woolf, 1933 Charles Wilson Brega James (1906–78) was one of the most celebrated and sought-after couturiers of his day, and won ecstatic praise for his highly innovative designs. Without formal training, he created some of the most ambitious, dramatic couture of the twentieth century and, with the breathless support of the UK and American press, came to be the designer of choice for powerful clients including Marlene Dietrich and socialite Austine Hearst. In this book, the first in a new series examining the working methods and dressmaking practices of great designers, James’s reputation is re-examined and his most breathtaking designs are analyzed in exacting detail – from magnificent eveningwear to chic accessories. Timothy A. Long explores the previously unstudied methods James employed – uncovering a geometric rigour and passion for materials that enabled the designer to create revolutionary garments. Featuring detailed illustrations and new garment photography, this is the perfect introduction to James’s stunning work – valuable to dressmakers, designers and scholars alike.

Evening cape

‘Four-Leaf Clover’ evening dress

Silk ribbon London, 1936

Silk duchesse satin, silk velvet and silk faille. Label: ‘Charles James ’53’ (handwritten). New York, 1953

V&A: T.1–1977 Given by Cecil Beaton

V&A: T.276–1974 Given by the Art Students League

Strips of millinery ribbon spiral outwards from the neck of this cape to form a wide sweeping hem of xx cm length. This cape is one of numerous garments James created using leftover millinery ribbon made in the early twentieth century by Colcombet (see previous garment). The cape, which features x panels of multicoloured silk ribbon, was made in 1936 and presented the following year at James’s first show in Paris. Each ribbon forms a panel of the cape and is used at its full width of x cm at the hem, tapering upwards to fit the shoulders before ending in thin spirals around the neck, where the garment is closed by means of a hook-and-eye fastening. The skill and craftsmanship needed to cut and shape wide ribbon panels, each approximately two metres in length, to the contours of the shoulders and neck is remarkable. James not only cut each panel to a different shape, he also made use of the natural stretch in the grain of the ribbon to aid fit on the shoulders. In 1938, British Harper’s Bazaar featured a double-page spread of James’s illustrations, focusing on his exploitation of the properties of fabric: he is quoted as saying ‘Let the grain do the work’.10 James returned to the technique of creating stripes using panels of different coloured textiles throughout his career. When there was no more millinery ribbon left for him to use, James cut similar garments from fabric, sometimes joining together crisp silk taffeta, light silk charmeuse and stiff silk faille to great effect. In addition to alternating colours, each textile has different reflective qualities, from shiny taffeta to matte faille.

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Charles James identified this dress as his greatest achievement. To him, the design represented ‘the bringing together of many parts from which a whole series of designs had been made … It seemed to me to be somewhat of a thesis.’ 17 The exterior layer is made of three fabrics: cream silk duchesse satin is used for the bodice and upper skirt, while the lower part of the skirt is made of black silk velvet and cream silk faille. The asymmetrical cut of the bodice is nearly identical to that of other garments made in the years leading up to this design, including the evening dress shown on the previous pages. The skirt is a continuation of James’s experiments with the ‘metacircle’ concept. By altering the shape of the lower skirt’s hem to that of a rounded square (a feature visible when the skirt is laid flat) and modifying the shape of the inner circle (where the lower skirt meets the upper part) to form an ellipse, the evening dress begins to follow the geometry associated with the study of conics (p.30). In this example, the almost flat plane of the lower-skirt metacircle intersects with the main part of the skirt, the ‘cone’. Because the point of inter-section is lower at the front than the back of the garment, the skirt is fuller behind. James further developed this concept by allowing the lower skirt to fall into four lobes. These lobes are supported by an inner-petticoat of silk taffeta, integral to the dress, cut in a similar pattern to the exterior layer and with strips of metal boning, bent into the ‘clover’ shape, sewn in. The hem of this petticoat is supported by a wide strip of nylon braid, hand-sewn to the interior. A final innermost petticoat of silk taffeta is stitched to the waistline and provides a barrier between the wearer and the inner construction of the dress.

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Timothy A. Long is Curator of Fashion and Decorative Arts at the Museum of London. MARCH £30.00 HB NEW SERIES ISBN 9781851778218 270 × 206 mm 160pp 140 col and b&w BIC: AKT FASHION january – june 2015 fashion & textiles

12 fashion & textiles january â&#x20AC;&#x201C; june 2015

LONDON SOCIETY FASHION 1905–1925 The Wardrobe of Heather Firbank

Cassie Davies-Strodder, Jenny Lister and Lou Taylor Over 80 years ago, Heather Firbank packed away her extensive collection of fine clothes, bought from London’s very best dressmakers and tailors. These treasures lay undiscovered for the next 30 years, until after her death, they were given to the V&A, laying the foundations for the Museum’s world-famous collection. Firbank was an enthusiastic shopper and bought her clothes from the world’s leading couture houses, including Lucile, Redfern and Mascotte, as well as private dressmakers and department stores. Her collection forms an invaluable record of fashionable Edwardian taste over a period of some 15 years.

MAY £35.00 HB ISBN 9781851778317 310 × 240 mm 176pp 150 col BIC: AKT FASHION

Beautifully illustrated with new photography of finely crafted evening gowns, tailored suits and glamorous hats, the book also features contemporary photographs and pages from Heather’s own albums of fashion cuttings. It vividly maps out the London couture scene of Edwardian Britain, and charts changes in fashion through the tumultuous first decades of the twentieth century. Through the story of Heather’s own life, both joyous and troubled, this book celebrates the central role of clothing in creating a single woman’s identity. Jenny Lister and Cassie Davies-Strodder are curators in the Furniture, Textiles and Fashion department at the V&A. Lou Taylor is Professor of Dress and Textile History at the University of Brighton.

january – june 2015 fashion & textiles 13

MADE UP LOVe SONG Bettina von Zwehl, introduction by David Chandler Made Up Love Song documents a new work by internationally acclaimed artist Bettina von Zwehl – a captivating series of 34 miniature photographic portraits that record her evolving relationship with sitter Sophia, a V&A gallery assistant. These intimate and beautiful portraits are presented together here for the first time, with an introductory essay by photography curator David Chandler that discusses the philosophy and history of portraiture, as well as von Zwehl’s inspiration from the V&A’s extensive collection – from Hans Holbein the Younger to John Burrell.

FEBRUARY £10.00 HB ISBN 9781851778225 165 × 165 mm 96pp 46 col BIC: AJB PHOTOGRAPHY

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Published to accompany the display of this arresting photographic series, Made Up Love Song is an elegantly produced study of von Zwehl’s methodology and sensibilities, and an introduction to the practice of an innovative contemporary artist. Bettina von Zwehl is a renowned photographic portrait artist and was Photography Artist in Residence at the V&A in 2011. David Chandler is Professor of Photography at the University of Plymouth.

THE ARTS OF LIVING Europe 1600–1815

Elizabeth Miller and Hilary Young, eds Published to accompany the opening of the V&A’s new Europe Galleries. The Arts of Living explores the breadth, depth and beauty of the V&A’s seventeenth- and eighteenth-century collections. Written by a team of experts, the book provides an overview of more than two centuries of cultural development and artistic endeavour. Masterpieces such as the Sérilly Cabinet and Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s terracotta for his funeral monument the Blessed Ludovica Albertoni are contextualized alongside discussions of Louis XIV’s patronage and the seventeenth-century Dutch interior. Many works will be shown for the first time, including Count Brühl’s Meissen fountain and actor David Garrick’s tea service. Elizabeth Miller is Senior Curator of prints at the V&A. Hilary Young is Senior Curator of ceramics at the V&A.

MAY £25.00 HB ISBN 9781851778072 245 × 220 mm 208pp 230 col BIC: ACQ HISTORY OF ART & DESIGN

184

Male Adornment

Lesley Ellis Miller

Before the end of the eighteenth century personal appearance was generally expected to reveal where an individual fitted in the social hierarchy, and gentlemen vied with gentlewomen in their attentions to the body. The act of dressing was a time-consuming and ritualized procedure. At court, and in some wealthy households, it was a semi-public performance – the lever – to which it was an honour to be invited (see p.177). Some daytime changes of clothing were also necessary to ensure the appropriate appearance for specific occasions. Satirical literature and prints decried the blurring of social distinctions, as more and more people acquired fashionable paraphernalia in the wake of rising incomes and the production of cheaper manufactured goods. Donning and wearing fashionable attire was not simple, the correct use of gentlemanly accoutrements requiring knowledge of polite deportment and etiquette. Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme – a comedy written and performed by the playwright Molière for the first time before Louis XIV of France in 1670 – highlights the niceties of such behaviour in the context of French court and city. Significantly, the play had pan-European relevance and had been translated into English, Dutch, Italian and Portuguese by 1700, and into Danish, German, Polish, Russian and Swedish by 1800. The protagonist, M. Jourdain, is a bourgeois with pretensions to grandeur and sufficient income from commercial ventures to ape the nobility, but insufficient knowledge or breeding to do so successfully. Dependent on a range of craftsmen and masters of noble accomplishments for their services and advice, he greets these men in his well-appointed home in a banyan, because ‘My tailor tells me that people of quality dress like this in the morning.’ Such loose-fitting, full-length dressing gowns were worn by men of different social classes for leisure in the home, and sometimes at work. M. Jourdain’s is in a fashionable printed or painted Indian cotton, and would probably have been an expensive purchase. Silk, either plain or patterned, was an even more prestigious fabric, woven in Europe or China, made into a kimonoshaped or slightly fitted garment (pl.213) and often complemented by a matching waistcoat and breeches. M. Jourdain awaits a new made-to-measure suit. His silver-tongued tailor hoodwinks him into believing that the suit, silk stockings and shoes fit him perfectly and are in the latest mode, when in fact they are ill-fitting, poorly made and out-of-date – all qualities that would immediately show that their wearer was not a gentleman. The three-piece suit shown by Romeyn de Hooghe (pl.216), which comprised a knee-length loose coat, waistcoat and breeches, had been adopted in court circles, yet the tailor provides the short doublet and voluminous petticoat breeches fashionable in the preceding decade. Before leaving home, M. Jourdain speaks to his two menservants – important liveried adjuncts to his personal

above

213 Banyan (man’s informal robe) China (silk); western Europe (garment), 1700 – 30 Silk damask V&A: T.31– 2012 opposite

214 Portrait of a Man, probably by Alexis-Simon Belle Probably Saint-Germain-en-Laye, France, about 1712 Oil on canvas V&A: P.12 –1978

january – june 2015 art & design 15

A HISTORY OF BRITISH MAGAZINE DESIGN Anthony Quinn A History of British Magazine Design is an investigation into the design and history of British magazines over the past 170 years. It identifies turning points and new directions over a century of one of the most sensitive barometers of mass-market design taste, from the advent of two periodicals – Punch and the Illustrated London News – that changed publishing fundamentally, through to the beginnings of digital distribution.

APRIL £30.00 HB ISBN 9781851777860 310 × 220 mm 240pp 200 col BIC: AK DESIGN

A magazine flourishes or folds according to its audience’s response to its look and feel, arguably as much as to its content. A History of British Magazine Design offers an in-depth discussion of trends and changes within graphic design, typography and photography, as well as discussing innovative print technology. It explores why magazines have chosen and changed their identities and offers new insights into the way artistic, social and technological influences have shaped magazine design and the people who drove these changes, from Charles Dickens and Herbert Ingram, through George Newnes, Nick Logan and Tyler Brûlé. These innovators not only revolutionized the idea of what a magazine is and how it looks, but also inspired people to fight in wars and invent the world wide web. Heavily illustrated, A History of British Magazine Design chronicles the intricate history of British magazine design with iconic spreads extracted from the National Art Library’s unparalleled and extensive archive of periodicals. Anthony Quinn is an editor for the Financial Times.

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142

SWINGERS IN PRINT

143

TOWN (December 1962)

TOWN (March 1967)

TOWN (May 1963) TOPIC (14 July 1962)

Tom Wolsey applied his international approach to the British news weekly, which Cornmarket took over in 1962. The main spread, for a photographic feature by Don McCullin about protests in Trafalgar Square against the ‘strutting members of the Nationalist Socialist Movement’, frames the single picture on the left with white strips down each side. The right-hand page uses a dynamic modular layout, with white space reinforcing a classic ‘Catherine wheel’ effect. The page numbers were placed about 3cm down from the top outside edges of the pages, where a reader’s thumb might be when flicking through.

About Town rebranded – once more losing a word from its name. This is the opening spread by Donald McCullin for a feature on Britain’s affluent society. James Gilbert took pictures for the cover and inside of aerobatic pilots wearing suits and goggles. Tom Wolsey was the art editor.

The pop art cover by is Barry Fantoni, who would become a comic-strip cartoonist and poet-in-residence E.J. Thribb for Private Eye. The feature inside identifies 1954 as the year pop art was first sighted as a real movement by a group of critics at the Institute of Contemporary Art. Thomas Wolsey was the art editor.

It’s the name of the publishing company that has now changed, with printers Hazell, Watson and Viney taking a stake in Cornmarket in lieu of debts. However, Town closed at the end of the year: ‘It was too expensive to survive,’ said Heseltine. Even so Haymarket thrived by applying the visual style of Town to trade publishing, with Management Today and Campaign as early successes under art director Roland Schenk. Harry Gordon was art director for this issue. ‘The Bridges’ by Rolf Schneider was illustrated by Bob Gill. Just six editorial pages inside the magazine were in colour.

Cornmarket Magazines (206 × 275 mm, stapled, 44 pages)

Cornmarket Press (234 × 318 mm, perfect bound, 124 pages)

Cornmarket Press (234 × 318 mm, perfect bound, 82 pages)

Haymarket Press (234 × 318 mm, perfect bound, 72 pages)

98 C O N T R A S T I N G A P P R O A C H E S

FLYING (25 June 1938)

MODERN WONDER (24 July 1937)

Bryan de Grineau drew the cover of this weekly, containing illustrated science articles and action true life and science fiction stories for boys and young men. Some of the illustrations and stories were republished from other magazines, such as Illustrated London News and John Benyon sci-fi from Odhams’ Passing Show. Modern Wonder closed with wartime paper rationing, but some of the ideas and illustrators – particularly the cutaway drawings of Leslie Ashwell Wood – would feature again with the launch of the Eagle in the 1950s, and TV21 and Look and Learn in the 1960s. Odhams printed Modern Wonder on its presses in Watford.

Along with the covers, the centre spread was in colour, a pattern common among the weekly magazines. The fact that the centre pages were a single sheet meant artwork could be used large and could run across the gutter. Also, there was no problem with variations in the ink colour or registration, both potential problems when an image was printed across a spread when the two sides were in different printing sections.

The editor was Biggles author W.E. Johns, whose friend Howard Leigh painted the cover’s Sopwith Camel. This issue included a feature, ‘Mastering the stratosphere’, by Clarence Ebey; this was bought in from the

Odhams (267 × 407 mm, stapled, 16 pages)

Ledger Syndicate, which distributed features that had appeared in the US publications the Saturday Evening Post and Ladies Home Journal. It was printed by Sun Engraving, Watford.

George Newnes (248 × 318 mm, stapled, 32 pages)

88 C O N T R A S T I N G A P P R O A C H E S

PICTURE POST (1 October 1938)

LILLIPUT (November 1946)

In 1937, Stefan Lorant set up his own publishing company with backing from friends in order to launch Lilliput, a pocket-format monthly with an anti-totalitarian stance. Up until September 1949 the covers were painted by Walter Trier, who had come to Britain from Germany in 1936. They always featured a man, a woman and a dog. The first of Ronald Searle’s St Trinian’s cartoons was published in the magazine and he also did several covers, the first in December 1949, just after Trier’s run ended. Pocket Publications (137 × 196 mm, stapled, 124 pages)

From the start, Lilliput ran photo-essays by such photographers as Bill Brandt over several pages. It also ran ‘juxtapositions’, picture comparisons where two photographs were printed on opposite pages with captions that drew comparisons. In 1940, Lorant compiled many of these in 101 Best Picture Comparisons from Lilliput: Or Chamberlain and the Beautiful Llama.1 The book’s introduction describes how a picture of Rockefeller as a poor old man and another of a happy peasant triggered the idea for the first issue: ‘We found

that what people liked most in the magazine were just these few photographic jokes.’ The ‘idea behind the idea’ became to debunk, ‘to show how stupid pomposity, how silly selfimportance is’. Note the eclectic sources for the photographs in this example – New York and Prague. 1

National Art Library General Collection 602. AM.0001

Picture Post developed the idea of the photomagazine and was a spectacular success from the start, with a weekly circulation topping 1.6 million at its height. Sir Edward Hulton bought up Stefan Lorant’s Lilliput to secure his services and Tom Hopkinson joined him. Hopkinson founded the Centre for Journalism Studies at Cardiff University in 1970. The cover photograph of the dancers jumping was repeated for the last issue (1 June 1957). Hulton (262 × 348 mm, stapled)

january january––june june2015 2015art art&&design design 17

BRITISH DESIGN from 1948 Innovation in the Modern Age Christopher Breward and Ghislaine Wood, eds ‘The first time that post-war design in Britain has been portrayed in such detail … a must for design students.’ The Independent

MARCH £25.00 NEW IN PAPERBACK ISBN 9781851777860 287 × 247 mm 400pp 350 col BIC: AK DESIGN

18 art & design january – june 2015

This landmark book celebrates the best of British design, documenting the transformation of Britain’s design landscape since 1948. Alongside essays by leading curators and commentators, British Design From 1948 presents the work of key practitioners (including Alexander McQueen, Terence Conran, Barbara Hulanicki, Paul Smith and Tom Dixon) to build a comprehensive survey of the finest fashion and textiles, furniture, ceramics and glass, theatre design, graphics, photography, architecture, fine art and sculpture from this period. In addition to discussing works commissioned for official purposes, including the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II and the Festival of Britain, the book highlights the globally influential, and very British, counterculture, from the Sixties boutiques of Mary Quant and Ossie Clark through to the club cultures of Punk, the New Romantics and Rave. Christopher Breward is Principal of Edinburgh College of Art and former Head of Research at the V&A. Ghislaine Wood is a Senior Curator in the V&A’s Research Department.

ART DECO 1910–1939 Charlotte Benton, Tim Benton and Ghislaine Wood, eds

‘The best book on Art Deco to have appeared so far, and likely to remain so.’ Bevis Hillier, Literary Review Art Deco – the style redolent of the flapper girl, the luxury ocean liner, Hollywood film and the skyscraper – came to epitomize the glamour, luxury and hedonism of the Jazz Age. It burst on to the world stage at the 1925 Exposition internationale des art decoratifs et industriels modernes in Paris, and quickly swept across the globe. Its influence was felt everywhere, from the skylines of New York and Shanghai to the design of fashionable eveningwear and plastic radios. Above all, it became the signature style of the pleasure palaces of the age – hotels, cocktail bars, nightclubs and cinemas.

JUNE £40.00 HB REISSUE ISBN 9781851778331 287 × 247 mm 464pp 400 col 50 b/w BIC: ACV ART & DESIGN

This authoritative publication brings together leading experts to explore the sources, varied forms of expression, distinct visual language and global reach of Art Deco. With its breathtaking illustrations, this lavish volume is the definitive book on what is, arguably, the most popular style of the twentieth century. Charlotte Benton is an independent architecture and design historian. Tim Benton is Professor Emeritus of Art History at the Open University. Ghislaine Wood is a Senior Curator in the V&A’s Research Department.

january – june 2015 art & design 19

DIAGHILEV AND THE GOLDEN AGE OF THE BALLETS RUSSES 1909–1929 Jane Pritchard, ed. ‘A sumptuous illustrated catalog.’ Suzy Menkes, International Herald Tribune Serge Diaghilev (1872–1929) was an extraordinarily gifted impresario, curator, director and animator of the arts. He was perfectly at home driving the wave of creative energy that pushed theatrical performance to the cutting edge of cultural activity in the early twentieth century. A roll call of the Ballets Russes’ collaborators and circle bears witness to their impact on modernism and later twentieth-century art; Picasso, Stravinsky, Nijinsky, Bakst, Goncharova, Matisse, Chanel, Prokofiev, Man Ray and Cocteau all worked with Diaghilev – and their work is discussed and illustrated here.

JUNE £25.00 NEW IN PAPERBACK ISBN 9781851778355 310 × 240 mm 240pp 240 col BIC: ASDL, ANF DANCE / DESIGN

20 art & design january – june 2015

This beautiful book draws on new research to explore Diaghilev’s life, work and cultural milieu. It pulls together the music, pictures, costumes, archives and art of the Ballets Russes to illustrate Diaghilev’s working process, accomplishments and society. Jane Pritchard is Curator of Dance for the Theatre and Performance Collections at the V&A.

childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Books and stationery

WENDY AND THE WALLPAPER CAT Jason Hook, illustrated by Ilaria Demonti

A beautifully illustrated and original bedtime story inspired by the classic designs of Walter Crane. APRIL £11.99 HB ISBN 9781851778300 272 × 215 mm 32pp 40 col BIC: YBCS READERSHIP: 3–7 years PICTURE BOOKS

Wendy can’t sleep, no matter what she tries. She counts sheep, reads books and even turns somersaults – but nothing works. Eventually Wendy’s parents take her on holiday to stay at her grandfather’s house, and he invites Wendy to stay in whichever room is her favourite. Wendy is amazed to discover interiors covered in wallpapers that come to life, and their sights, sounds and smells fill her head with images and ideas. As she wanders happily from room to room, she finally finds a way to drift off to sleep. Jason Hook is the author of children’s picture books Where’s the Dragon? (2003) and Ghosts (2014). Ilaria Demonti is a freelance illustrator based in Milan. She is the illustrator of Sur le fil and Qui se cache dans la nuit? (both 2014).

Wendy stretched up to touch the wallpaper. She heard the sound of a fiddle playing and saw a blue cat leap down from her bed. He looked so much fun, she couldn’t

help running after him.

20–21 [Wendy now asleep, we are following her dreams even though she thinks she is still awake. Link sky-blue tendrils plants to similar shaped tendrils of plants That night, Wendy couldn’t wait to go to bed. She read her book of nursery-rhymes, and looked up at the wallpaper. She saw a blue cat playing a fiddle, a cow jumping over the moon, a little dog laughing and a dish running away with a spoon.

in Walter’s garden wallpaper, also link with spiders and webs, and extract elements from earlier wallpapers, turning them into parts of her dream.]

She chased the blue cat through a forest of orange trees.

[Verso: Cut-outs on white page. Wendy standing on bed, cat playing fiddle skipping

With so many wonderful things to look at, Wendy didn’t know how she would ever get to sleep…

22 children’s books january – june 2015

away from foot of bed, illustrator to convert blue cat from wallpaper into character. Can add other details from wallpaper, e.g. yellow birds, sky-blue plant tendrils.]

BEN

JENNY THE JEEP

Jack Townend

These collectible children’s books have been lovingly restored for their first printing since the Second World War. Following the release of A Story about Ducks and A Railway ABC, V&A Publishing has rediscovered two more touching stories by the inimitable author and artist Jack Townend.

Ben tells the story of a lonely steamroller. Ben loves to work hard for Mr Dodie but, at night, when he is all alone, pools of tears collect beneath his boiler. He is lonely and yearns for brothers and sisters. One day Ben looks across a field and sees a puff of white smoke. Overwhelmed with happiness, he hastily rushes to meet steamroller Matilda, and the pair agree to run away together. Delightful lithographs accompany this sweet and endearing love story.

Jenny is a very pretty Jeep indeed – instead of being green like all the others, she is pink! Jenny is proud to be pink but her peers grow increasingly jealous and mercilessly tease and exclude her. When the troops head to Italy, disaster strikes and, when the soldiers ask for help, only brave Jenny can save the day. Illustrated in colour, with a heartwarming text, this enchanting story will charm readers of all ages.

Jack Townend (1918–2005) taught at the Ruskin School of Art, where he tutored, among others, Shirley Hughes. In 1948 Townend was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts. APRIL £5.99 HB ISBN 9781851778287 129 × 215 mm 32pp BIC: YBC READERSHIP: 3–7 years PICTURE BOOKS 24 children’s books january – june 2015

APRIL £5.99 HB ISBN 9781851778294 129 × 215 mm 32pp BIC: YBC READERSHIP: 3–7 years PICTURE BOOKS

DOLLS’ HOUSE COLOURING BOOK Emily Sutton This delightful colouring book brings one of the V&A’s favourite collections into your home. The illustrations are based on dolls’ houses from the V&A Museum of Childhood and are ready for you to personalize. By turn charming, witty and fun, this is a perfect present and a fantastic souvenir. Emily Sutton is an illustrator whose work is influenced by twentieth-century artists such as Edward Bawden and Eric Ravilious.

AVAILABLE NOW £5.99 PB ISBN 9781851778058 310 x 233 mm 32pp BIC: YBGC READERSHIP: 3–7 years CHILDREN’S ACTIVITY BOOK

EDWARD BAWDEN COLOURING BOOK This beautiful colouring book features a selection of some of Bawden’s most endearing linocuts, illustrating a wide range of activities and characters from history and fairytales. From London monuments, to lions and tigers, to princesses and knights, there is something for everyone. Edward Bawden (1903–1989) was a graphic artist and illustrator. AVAILABLE NOW £5.99 PB ISBN 9781851777266 310 × 233 mm 32pp BIC: YBGC READERSHIP: 3–7 years CHILDREN’S ACTIVITY BOOK

january – june 2015 children’s books 25

V&A DIARY 2016 Produced to mark the V&A’s summer exhibition, Shoes: Pleasure and Pain, 13 June 2015 to 31 January 2016. Available in two formats, this beautifully illustrated week-to-view diary is a feast for the eyes, showcasing wonderful examples from the V&A’s extensive international shoe collection for both men and women, as well as delving into the Museum’s and National Art Library’s fantastic archive of photographs, sketches, textiles, advertisements and fashion plates. MARCH BIC: WZS DIARIES GIFT DESK DIARY £11.99 flexibound ISBN 9781851778386 224 × 190 mm, 120pp POCKET DIARY £6.99 flexibound ISBN 9781851778348 135 × 115 mm, 120pp

V&A PATTERN: 100 POSTCARDS Packaged in a colourful presentation box, these beautiful patterns range from the intricate floral motifs of William Morris and C.F.A. Voysey to the wit and vibrancy of Pop design; from the cool restraint of Fifties textiles to the iconic prints of Liberty & Co. The perfect introduction to the V&A’s design collections and a must-have for design fans. AVAILABLE NOW £14.99 box set ISBN 9781851778157 BIC: WZS STATIONERY / GIFT

26 stationery january – june 2015

recent highlights & bestsellers

DISOBEDIENT OBJECTS

Catherine Flood and Gavin Grindon, eds

£19.99 PB ISBN 9781851777976 250 × 210 mm 144pp 110 col and 25 b&w BIC: AK / JPW DESIGN / POLITICS

HORST: Photographer of Style

THE WEDDING DRESS: 300 Years of Bridal Fashion

£40.00 HB ISBN 9781851778010 310 × 240 mm 352pp 360 col BIC: AJB / AKT PHOTOGRAPHY / FASHION

£35.00 HB | ISBN 9781851778133 £25.00 PB | ISBN 9781851777839 310 × 240 mm 208pp 135 col BIC: AKT, WJW FASHION

Susanna Brown, ed. Foreword by Anna Wintour

Edwina Ehrman

EDWARD BAWDEN’S KEW GARDENS Peyton Skipwith and Brian Webb

‘A beautifully designed book.’ World of Interiors ‘A neat, bright little package that any Kew enthusiast will enjoy.’ Country Life ‘Every page is visually perfect … an utterly desirable object.’ Spectator

£20.00 HB ISBN 9781851777792 229 × 148 mm 112pp 100 col BIC: AK, WT ART & DESIGN / LONDON INTEREST

28 recent highlights january – june 2015

THE BIBA YEARS 1963–1975

Barbara Hulanicki and Martin Pel

Talks 5 Sept: V&A talk with Justine Picardie 8 Sept: Bath Fashion Museum with Iain R. Webb 9 Sept: Royal Pavilion, Brighton 12 Sept: London College of Fashion with Zandra Rhodes Media YOU, Mail on Sunday (1st serial, 31 Aug) Sunday Times Style (7 Sept) Observer New Review (7 Sept) Harper’s Bazaar and ELLE (on stands Sept) BBC Radio 4 Woman’s Hour (11 Sept) £35.00 HB ISBN 9781851777990 287 × 247 mm 240pp 280 col and b&w BIC: AKT FASHION

JOHN CONSTABLE: The Making of a Master

JOHN CONSTABLE: Oil Sketches

£30.00 HB ISBN 9781851778003 240 × 275 mm 192pp 170 col BIC: AFC / AGB HISTORY OF ART

£25.00 HB ISBN 9781851776269 240 × 275 mm 144pp 140 col BIC: AFC / AGB HISTORY OF ART

Mark Evans, ed.

january – june 2015 recent highlights 29

DAVID BOWIE IS

Victoria Broackes and Geoff Marsh, eds ‘This 320-page hardback book is a suitably reverent, visual and informational treat for Bowie fans.’ Creative Review ‘Beautiful photos and provocative essays.’ Shortlist ‘This handsome edition opens up Bowie’s personal archive.’ Time Out

£35.00 HB ISBN 9781851777372 310 × 240 mm 320pp 300 col BIC: AKT / AV MUSIC / FASHION

THE Golden Age of Couture

VIVIENNE Westwood

‘A lavish book filled with gorgeous images, captures a time when dressing was an elegant art.’ Elle

‘This is one fashion book that every Anglomaniac should have.’ Drapers

£24.99 PB ISBN 9781851775217 310 × 240 mm 224pp 97 col and 80 b&w BIC: AKT FASHION

£19.99 PB ISBN 9781851774050 287 × 247 mm 224pp 260 col and 30 b&w BIC: AKT FASHION

Claire Wilcox

Claire Wilcox, ed.

30 bestsellers january – june 2015

EDWARD BAWDEN’S LONDON

Peyton Skipwith and Brian Webb

£20.00 HB ISBN 9781851776559 270 × 216 mm 160pp 190 col BIC: AK, WT ART & DESIGN / TRAVEL

‘A delightful, beautifully designed and fascinating book.’ Country Life ‘Peyton Skipwith is thoroughly at home with his subject and the book is handsomely served by plentiful illustrations.’ World of Interiors

FROM A TO BIBA: The Autobiography of Barbara Hulanicki

£8.99 PB ISBN 9781851775149 198 × 129 mm 176pp BIC: AKT, BGA BIOGRAPHY / FASHION

‘A charming and wry look at the Swinging Sixties through the eyes of Hulanicki, founder of Biba, the hippest shop in London.’ Harpers Bazaar ‘Packed with wonderfully ludicrous stories.’ Times Literary Supplement

HIGH STREET

J.M. Richards, illustrations by Eric Ravilious

£20.00 HB ISBN 9781851776894 229 × 148 mm 112pp 24 col, BIC: AKLB DESIGN / GIFT

‘This facsimile edition brings the charming shop fronts roaring back to life.’ Time Out

HOW TO DRESS FOR SUCCESS Edith Head and Joe Hyams

£9.99 clothbound ISBN 9781851775545 178 × 129 mm 128pp BIC: WJF FASHION

‘First published in 1967, Edith’s witty, incisive tips still hold true.’ YOU, Mail on Sunday ‘This ‘how to’ of dressing will inspire even the most fashion-fearing.’ The Times

january – june 2015 bestsellers 31

fashion

80s FASHION From Club to Catwalk Sonnet Stanfill, ed. £19.99 PB 9781851777259

400 years of fashion Natalie Rothstein £19.99 PB 9781851773015

the ambassador MAGAZINE Breward & Wilcox, eds £35.00 HB 9781851776771

ART DECO FASHION Suzanne Lussier £8.99 PB 9781851775651

balenciaga Lesley Ellis Miller £19.99 PB 9781851775224

BALLGOWNS Cullen & Stanfill £14.99 PB 9781851777464

ballgowns Cullen & Stanfill £20.00 HB 9781851776849

BLACK STYLE Carol Tulloch, ed. £19.95 PB 9781851774241

british asian style Breward, Crang & Crill, eds £24.99 PB 9781851776191

chanel Amy de la Haye £19.99 PB 9781851776436

CRISTÓBAL BALENCIAGA Miren Arzalluz £30.00 HB 9781851776634

the day of the peacock STYLE FOR MEN 1963–1973 Geoffrey Aquilina Ross £24.99 HB 9781851776009

dior Alexandra Palmer £19.99 PB 9781851775781

fashion and armour in RENAISSANCE EUROPE Angus Patterson £19.99 HB 9781851775811

fashion v sport Ligaya Salazar, ed. £19.99 PB 9781851775330

Fear and Fashion In the Cold War Jane Pavitt £19.99 PB 9781851775446

32 p ublished titles january – june 2015

BESTSELLER

BESTSELLER V&A GALLERY OF FASHION Wilcox & Lister £14.99 PB 9781851777525

THE GLAMOUR OF ITALIAN FASHION SINCE 1945 Sonnet Stanfill £35.00 HB 9781851777761

The Golden Age of Couture Claire Wilcox, ed. £24.99 PB 9781851775217

grace kelly style Haughland with Lister & Safer £14.99 PB 9781851776993

HAts: An anthology Jones & Cullen £14.99 PB 9781851776887 £200 SP ED 9781851775743

Horrockses fashions Christine Boydell £24.99 HB 9781851776016

THE HOUSE OF WORTH De la Haye & Mendes £35.00 HB 9781851777747

imperial chinese robes Ming Wilson, ed. £30.00 HB 9781851776207

lucile ltd Valerie D. Mendes & Amy de la Haye £35.00 HB 9781851775613

magnificence of the tsars Svetlana A. Amelekhina £19.99 PB 9781851776047

New York Fashion Sonnet Stanfill £30.00 HB 9781851774999

THE ORIGINS OF ITALIAN FASHION 1900–45 Sofia Gnoli £19.99 PB 9781851777914

seventeenth-Century Women’s dress patterns book one North & Tiramani, eds £35.00 HB 9781851776313

seventeenth-century women’s dress patterns: book two North & Tiramani, eds £35.00 HB 9781851776856

Style and Splendour Kjellberg & North £30.00 HB 9781851774548

the surreal body Ghislaine Wood £12.99 PB 9781851775026

january – june 2015 published titles 33

BESTSELLER

Vivienne Westwood Claire Wilcox £19.99 PB 9781851774050

fashion in detail

THE WEDDING DRESS Edwina Ehrman £35.oo HB 9781851778133 £25.00 PB 9781851777839

BESTSELLER

yohji yamamoto Ligaya Salazar, ed £35.00 HB 9781851776276

BESTSELLER

FASHION IN DETAIL 1700–2000 Claire Wilcox £55.00 HB 9781851777686

nineteenth-century FASHION IN DETAIL Lucy Johnston £25.00 PB 9781851775729

seventeenth and eighteenth-century FASHION IN DETAIL | Hart & North £25.00 PB 9781851775675

Twentieth-Century FASHION IN DETAIL Wilcox & Mendes £20.00 PB 9781851775712

UNDERWEAR FASHION IN DETAIL Eleri Lynn £25.00 PB 9781851777846

world dress FASHION IN DETAIL Crill, Wearden & Wilson, eds £19.99 PB 9781851775682

a to z of style Amy de la Haye, ed. £9.99 HB 9781851776528 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851777433

a to z of hollywood style Sinty Stemp, ed. £9.99 HB 9781851777112 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851777440

style guides & autobiographies

BESTSELLER A TO Z OF WEDDING STYLE Kate Bethune £9.99 HB 9781851777822

ABC of Men’s Fashion Hardy Amies £9.99 HB 9781851775569

34 p ublished titles january – june 2015

the art of being a well dressed wife Anne Fogarty £9.99 HB 9781851776306 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851777457

How to dress for Success Edith Head & Joe Hyams £9.99 HB 9781851775545 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851777426

BESTSELLER The Little Dictionary of Fashion Christian Dior £9.99 HB 9781851775552 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851777419

Dior by Dior Christian Dior £8.99 PB 9781851775170 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851776719

From A to Biba Barbara Hulanicki £8.99 PB 9781851775149 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851776696

King of Fashion Paul Poiret £8.99 PB 9781851775644 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851776726

quant by quant Mary Quant £8.99 PB 9781851776672 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851776689

Shocking Life Elsa Schiaparelli £8.99 PB 9781851775156 £6.99 E-BOOK 9781851776702

bags Claire Wilcox £8.99 PB 9781851775361

indian jewellery Nick Barnard £24.99 HB 9781851774838

jewellery of the tibet and the himalayas John Clarke £24.95 HB 9781851774234

jewels & Jewellery Clare Phillips £19.99 PB 9781851775354

medieval jewellery Marian Campbell £19.99 HB 9781851775828

PEARLS Chadour-Sampson & Bari £25.00 HB 9781851777556

jewellery & accessories

BESTSELLER

RINGS Rachel Church £8.99 PB 9781851777853

tiaras Geoffrey Munn £8.99 PB 9781851775347

TRADITIONAL JEWELLERY In Nineteenth-Century Europe Jane Perry £30.00 HB 9781851777297

january – june 2015 published titles 35

textiles

Alastair morton and edinburgh weavers Lesley Jackson £45.00 HB 9781851776603

art deco textiles Charlotte Samuels £19.99 PB 9781851773916

british textiles Linda Parry et al. £45.00 HB 9781851776184

chintz Rosemary Crill £30.00 HB 9781851775323

iranian textiles Jennifer Wearden & Patricia Baker £30.00 HB 9781851776153

Medieval Life and Leisure Linda Woolley £19.95 PB 9781851773763

quilts 1700–2010 Sue Prichard, ed. £25.00 PB 9781851776085

renaissance velvets Lisa Monnas £35.00 HB 9781851776566

samplers Browne & Wearden £19.99 PB 9781851772902

textiles and dress of gujarat | Eiluned Edwards £35.00 HB 9781851776450

toiles de jouy Sarah Grant £30.00 HB 9781851776177

WILLIAM MORRIS TEXTILES Linda Parry £35.00 HB 9781851777327

chINESE TEXTILES Verity Wilson £30.00 HB 9781851774388 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

MUslin Sonia Ashmore £30.00 HB 9781851777143

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

BESTSELLER

36 published titles january – june 2015

SELLING SILKS Lesley Ellis Miller £35.00 HB 9781851777815

sculpture

BAROQUE & LATER IVORIES Marjorie Trusted £85.00 HB 9781851777679 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

CARVINGS, CASTS & COLLECTORS Motture, Jones & Zikos, eds £35.00 HB 9781851776405

Chinese Jades Ming Wilson £30.00 HB 9781851774418 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

The Making of Sculpture Marjorie Trusted, ed. £24.99 PB 9781851775071

medieval ivory carvings Paul Williamson £85.00 HB 9781851776122 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

NETHERLANDISH Sculpture 1450–1550 Paul Williamson £25.00 HB 9781851773732

chinese export ceramics Kerr, Mengoni & Wilson £30.00 HB 9781851776320

Contemporary International Glass Jennifer Hawkins Opie £30.00 HB 9781851774265 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

EUROPEAN CERAMICS Robin Hildyard £19.99 PB 9781851772605 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ceramics & glass

chinese ceramics Stacey Pierson £30.00 HB 9781851775767

European Sculpture Paul Williamson, ed. £25.00 HB 9781851771738

french porcelain of the eighteenth century Christopher Maxwell £9.99 PB 9781851776092

italian renaissance maiolica Sani & Liefkes, eds £30.00 HB 9781851777068

English Pottery 1620–1840 Robin Hildyard £50.00 HB 9781851774425 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

Japanese Cloisonné Gregory Irvine £30.00 HB 9781851774821

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

january – june 2015 published titles 37

Japanese cloisonné enamels Gregory Irvine £9.99 PB 9781851776573 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

VINCENNES & EARLY SÈVRES PORCELAIN Joanna Gwilt £60.00 HB 9781851777730

Looking at Glass Hess & Wight £12.99 PB 9781851774609 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

prints

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

IN BLACK AND WHITE Saunders & Whitley £19.99 PB 9781851777549

Prints Now Gill & Miles £30.00 HB 9781851774807

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

graphic design

a century of olympic posters (NEW EDITION) Margaret Timmers £19.99 PB 9781851776986

Masterpieces of world ceramics Liefkes & Young, eds £30.00 HB 9781851775279

Brand.New Jane Pavitt, ed. £19.95 PB 9781851773244

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

Medieval and Renaissance Stained Glass Paul Williamson £30.00 HB 9781851774043

street art Riikka Kuittinen £14.99 PB 9781851776252

british posters Catherine Flood £19.99 PB 9781851776764

E. McKnight Kauffer Mark Haworth-Booth £24.99 PB 9781851774661

FRANK PICK’S LONDON Oliver Green £25.00 HB 9781851777570

MEMORY PALACE Hari Kunzru with Britton Newell & Salazar £12.99 HB 9781851777365 £11.99 E-BOOK 9781851777693

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

BESTSELLER

EDWARD BAWDEN’S KEW GARDENS Skipwith & Webb £20.00 HB 9781851777792

edward bawden’s london Skipwith & Webb £20.00 HB 9781851776559

38 published titles january – june 2015

art & Design

The Arts of Spain: Iberia and Latin America 1450–1700 Marjorie Trusted £40.00 HB 9781851775231

award winning british design Lily Crowther £14.99 PB 9781851776733

BAROQUE Style in the Age of Magnificence Snodin & Llewellyn, eds £25.00 PB 9781851775910

BRITISH DESIGN FROM 1948 Breward & Wood, eds £40.00 HB 9781851776740

CHINA DESIGN NOW Zhang & Parker, eds £24.99 PB 9781851775316

death and art Europe 1200–1530 Eleanor Townsend £14.99 HB 9781851775835

GRINLING GIBBONS And the Art of Carving David Esterly £19.99 PB 9781851772568

International Arts and Crafts Livingstone & Parry, eds £24.99 PB 9781851774456

JAPANESE NETSUKE Julia Hutt £30.00 HB 9781851777020

Korean Art and Design Beth McKillop £16.95 PB 9781851771042 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

MEDIEVAL and RENAISSANCE TREASURES Williamson & Motture £14.99 HB 9781851776030

Modernism Christopher Wilk, ed. £45.00 HB 9781851774746 £24.99 PB 9781851774777

PRINCELY TREASURES Medlam & Miller, eds £19.99 HB 9781851776337

Surreal Things Ghislaine Wood, ed. £40.00 HB 9781851775002 £24.99 PB 9781851775019

TREASURES OF THE ROYAL COURTS Murdoch & Dmitrieva, eds £30.00 HB 9781851777310

21 | Twenty ONE Gareth Williams £19.99 PB 9781851776788

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

january – june 2015 published titles 39

interiors

artistic circles Charlotte Gere £35.00 HB 9781851776023 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

Design and the Decorative Arts: Victorian Britain Michael Snodin & John Styles £19.95 PB 9781851774227

Civil Defence Handbook No. 10 HMSO £4.99 HB 9781851775422

Design and the Decorative Arts: Tudor and Stuart Britain Michael Snodin & John Styles £19.95 PB 9781851774203

Design and the Decorative Arts: Georgian Britain Michael Snodin & John Styles £19.95 PB 9781851774210

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

The Furniture Machine Furniture since 1990 Gareth Williams £35.00 HB 9781851774944

IMAGINED INTERIORS Aynsley & Grant £24.99 PB 9781851774937 £45.00 HB 9781851774920

Inside the Renaissance House Elizabeth Currie £14.99 HB 9781851774906

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

luxury goods from india Amin Jaffer £30.00 HB 9781851773817

MODERN BRITISH FURNITURE Lesley Jackson £40.00 HB 9781851777594

The Modernist Home Tim Benton £14.99 HB 9781851774760

Oriental Carpets and Their Structure Jennifer Wearden £30.00 HB 9781851774111

renaissance secrets Jo Wheeler £19.99 HB 9781851775774

Silver Philippa Glanville, ed. £16.95 PB 9781851771899

SURREAL PEOPLE Alexander Klar £12.99 PB 9781851775033

tea: east and west Rupert Faulkner, ed. £12.99 HB 9781851773985

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

40 published titles january – june 2015

Tiles and Tilework Alun Graves £19.95 PB 9781851773558

tipu’s tigers Susan Stronge £12.99 HB 9781851775750

Western Furniture Christopher Wilk £39.95 HB 9781851773725 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

theatre & performance

BESTSELLER david bowie is Broackes & Marsh, eds £35.00 HB 9781851777372

hollywood costume Deborah Nadoolman Landis, ed. £35.00 HB 9781851777099 £25.00 PB 9781851777105

photography

GLAM ROCK Alwyn W Turner £30.00 HB 9781851777648

HALFWAY TO PARADISE Photographs by Harry Hammond | Alwyn W Turner £20.00 HB 9781851775538

My Generation Photographs by Harry Goodwin | Alwyn W Turner £24.99 HB 9781851775972

queen elizabeth ii Susanna Brown £19.99 HB 9781851776542

about the museum

The Great Exhibitor Bonython & Burton £35.00 HB 9781851773268

THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM Lucy Trench £20.00 HB 9781851775088

january – june 2015 published titles 41

paintings & drawings A FLOWER WEDDING

DECORATED BY

Walter Crane

A FLOWER WEDDING Walter Crane £8.99 HB 9781851777884

THE ART OF DRAWING Susan Owens £30.00 HB 9781851777587

british watercolours Katherine Coombs £25.00 HB 9781851777075

DUTCH & FLEMISH DRAWINGS Shoaf Turner, White & Evans £200.00 2–VOLUME SLIPCASE HB 9781851777877 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

high street Ravilious & Richards £20.00 HB 9781851776894

Images of the Ottoman Empire Charles Newton £30.00 HB 9781851775057 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

recording britain Gill Saunders, ed. £30.00 HB 9781851776610

western illuminated manuscripts | Rowan Watson £250.00 HB 9781851776498 3–VOLUME SLIPCASE ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

The Painted World Mark Evans £30.00 HB 9781851774678

raphael: Cartoons and tapestries for the sistine chapel | Mark Evans £14.99 HB 9781851776344

42 published titles january – june 2015

john constable: oil sketches Mark Evans £25.00 HB 9781851776269

Kalighat Paintings Suhashini Sinha £14.99 PB 9781851776658

MASTERPIECES OF CHINESE PAINTING 700–1900 Zhang Hongxing, ed. £40.00 HB 9781851777563

The Portrait Miniature in England | Coombs £19.99 PB 9781851772070 ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

children’s books

BESTSELLER A RAILWAY ABC Jack Townend £5.99 HB 9781851777778

A STORY ABOUT DUCKS Jack Townend £4.99 HB 9781851777785

clara button and the magical hat day De la Haye & Sutton £10.99 HB 9781851776580 £5.99 PB 9781851777129

Dictionary of Children’s Clothes Noreen Marshall £30.00 HB 9781851775477

EDWARD BAWDEN COLOURING BOOK £5.99 PB 9781851777266

MUSEUM OF CHILDHOOD Sarah Wood £9.99 PB 9781851777037

knitting Sandy Black £35.00 HB 9781851775590

out of the ordinary Spectacular Craft Laurie Britton Newell £24.99 PB 9781851775248

CLARA BUTTON & THE WEDDING DAY SURPRISE De la Haye & Sutton £11.99 HB 9781851777006 £5.99 PB 9781851778065

Craft

HANDMADE IN BRITAIN Jo Norman £25.00 HB 9781851777082

patchwork for beginners Sue Prichard £7.99 HB 9781851775965

january – june 2015 published titles 43

v&a pattern series

C.F.A. Voysey Karen Livingstone £7.99 HB 9781851777334

the fifties Sue Prichard £7.99 HB 9781851775859

indian florals Rosemary Crill £7.99 HB 9781851775866

William Morris Linda Parry £7.99 HB 9781851775842

garden florals Antonia Brodie £7.99 HB 9781851775880

kimono Anna Jackson £7.99 HB 9781851776061

novelty patterns Valerie D. Mendes £7.99 HB 9781851775897

OWEN JONES Abraham Thomas £7.99 HB 9781851776054

chinese textiles Yueh-Siang Chang £7.99 HB 9781851776221

pop patterns Oriole Cullen £7.99 HB 9781851776368

spitalfields silks Moira Thunder £7.99 HB 9781851776351

walter crane Esmé Whittaker £7.99 HB 9781851776375

heal’s Mary Schoeser £7.99 HB 9781851776801

liberty & Co. Anna Buruma £7.99 HB 9781851776795

modern british designers Samantha Erin Safer £7.99 HB 9781851776818

sanderson 1954–74 Mary Schoeser £7.99 HB 9781851776825

44 published titles january – june 2015

V&A Pattern Box sets

Box-set ii £30.00 9781851776078 OWEN JONES / KIMONO / NOVELTY PATTERNS / GARDEN FLORALS

Box-SEt III £30.00 9781851776382 POP PATTERNS / CHINESE TEXTILES / WALTER CRANE / SPITALFIELDS SILKS

Box-SEt IV £30.00 9781851776832 MODERN BRITISH DESIGNERS / LIBERTY & CO. / HEAL’S / SANDERSON

designers Box-set v £30.00 9781851777341 WILLIAM MORRIS / OWEN JONES / WALTER CRANE / C.F.A. VOYSEY

V&A PUBLISHING AWARDS & PRIZES DAVID BOWIE IS Collector’s Edition Victoria Broackes and Geoffrey Marsh, eds Winner in the Limited Edition & Fine Binding category of the 2013 British Book Design & Production Awards HOLLYWOOD COSTUME Deborah Nadoolman Landis Best Moving Image Book in the 2013 Kraszna-Krausz Book Awards IOR: A New Look, A New Enterprise D Alexandra Palmer Winner of the 2010 Costume Society of America Millia Davenport Publication Award HATS: An Anthology Special Edition Stephen Jones and Oriole Cullen Winner in the Limited Edition & Fine Binding category of the 2009 British Book Design & Production Awards GOTHIC: Art for England 1400 – 1547 Paul Williamson Winner of the 2004 Art Newspaper / AXA Art Exhibition Catalogue Award ESSENTIAL ART DECO Ghislaine Wood Best Museum Publication in the 2003 Museum Trading Association Awards SPANISH SCULPTURE Marjorie Trusted Winner of the 1998 Eleanor Tufts Award from the American Society for Hispanic Art Historical Studies

january – june 2015 awards & prizes 45

AUTUMN 2014 – JUST OUT

DISOBEDIENT OBJECTS Flood & Grindon, eds £19.99 PB 9781851777976

HORST: Photographer of Style Susanna Brown £40.00 HB 9781851778010

MEDIEVAL IVORY CARVINGS 1200–1550 Williamson & Davies £150 2–VOL SLIPCASE HB 9781851778119

SURREAL THINGS Ghislaine Wood, ed. £24.99 PB 9781851775019

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

FA S H ION I N P R I N T 1777 –19 2 7 Catherine Flood and Sarah Grant

Catherine Flood is a curator in the Word & Image Department at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Her publications include British Posters: Advertising, Art & Activism (V&A, 2012) and, co-edited with Gavin Grindon, Disobedient Objects (V&A, 2014). She has curated displays on protest design, propaganda posters and nineteenth-century print culture.

THE BIBA YEARS

From the sky-high coiffures of Georgian Britain to outsize Victorian crinolines, from flimsy Regency fashions to the languid silhouette of 1920s ‘flappers’, Style and Satire tells the story of European fashion, and its most extreme trends, through a selection of lavish fashion plates and glorious satirical prints.

Presented together here for the first time, these two genres describe an emerging, vibrant fashion culture, while themselves evolving, first through the pages of the mass-produced Victorian periodical, and then as vibrant, stencilled images in luxurious publications of the 1920s and ’30s.

Beautifully printed, hand-coloured fashion plates first appeared in Britain and France in the late eighteenth century. In the same period (and often by the same artists), satirical prints gloried in the absurdities of fashion.

Lavishly illustrated and rigorously researched, Style and Satire presents a fresh and original history of the fashionable silhouette through the lens of print culture – a vital and witty addition to every fashion victim’s library.

F L OOD & GR A NT

Sarah Grant is a curator in the Word & Image Department. She is author of Toiles de Jouy: French Printed Cottons 1760–1830 (V&A, 2010) and has published on eighteenth-century prints, designs, textiles and miniatures. She curated, with Catherine Flood, the V&A display Fashion Fantasies (2012).

STYLE AND SATIRE: FA S H I ON I N P R I N T 1777 –19 2 7

The Biba Decade is the last word on a fashion phenomenon.

S TYLE AND SATIRE

BARBARA HULANICKI AND MARTIN PEL

Featuring a wealth of previouslyunpublished material, including early fashion illustrations by Hulanicki and full-colour facsimiles of the six luxurious Biba catalogues, The Biba Decade explores the innovative ethos and unique look of Biba fashion. Archival photographs provide a glimpse into the glamorous surrounds of the carefully curated London stores, and are accompanied by personal insights from Hulanicki and her contemporaries at Biba.

THE BIBA YEARS 1963–1975

Founded as a mail-order postal boutique in 1963, fashion brand Biba – the brainchild of designer Barbara Hulanicki – quickly gained cult status among the denizens of ‘Swinging London’. This book tells the story of the Biba decade; from the very first designs, through the four iconic London shops, to the eventual flourishing of a lifestyle brand that would revolutionize British retail and fashion culture.

Front cover: James Gillray (1756–1815), ‘Characters in High Life. Sketch’d at the New Rooms, Opera House’ (detail, p.43)

1963–1975

FA S H ION I N P R I N T 1777–1927

BARBARA HULANICKI AND MARTIN PEL

Back cover: André Edouard Marty (1882–1974), ‘Les Ailes Dans Le Vent’, published in the Modes et manières d’aujourd’hui, Paris, 1919. National Art Library: 95.JJ.24

THE BIBA YEARS: 1963–1975 Hulanicki & Pel £35.00 HB 9781851777990

ART NOUVEAU FASHION Clare Rose £25.00 HB 9781851778027

JOHN CONSTABLE: The Making of a Master Mark Evans £30.00 HB 9781851778003

CLARA BUTTON AND THE WEDDING DAY SURPRISE De la Haye & Sutton £5.99 PB 9781851778065

Halina Pasierbska

STYLE AND SATIRE Flood & Grant £12.99 PB 9781851778034

Dolls’ Houses from the V&A Museum of Childhood

Dolls’ Houses from the V&A Museum of Childhood Halina Pasierbska

V&A PATTERN: 100 POSTCARDS £14.99 Box Set 9781851778157

DOLLS’ HOUSES Halina Pasierbska £14.99 PB 9781851778041

DOLLS’ HOUSE COLOURING BOOK Emily Sutton £5.99 PB 9781851778058

FINNISH DESIGN: A Concise History Pekka Korvenmaa £30.00 HB 9781851778126

EMBROIDERY DESIGNS Moira Thunder £19.99 PB 9781851778140

WORD & IMAGE Bryant, James & Watson £25.00 HB 9781851778089

46 spring 2014 just out january – june 2015

AUTUMN 2014 – JUST OUT

SPRING 2015 – at a glance

ALEXAN D E R McQ U E E N

DISOBEDIENT OBJECTS Flood & Grindon, eds £19.99 PB 9781851777976

HORST: Photographer of Style Susanna Brown £40.00 HB 9781851778010

MEDIEVAL IVORY CARVINGS 1200–1550 Williamson & Davies £150 2–VOL SLIPCASE HB 9781851778119

SURREAL THINGS Ghislaine Wood, ed. £24.99 PB 9781851775019

MADE UP LOVE SONG Bettina von Zwehl £10.00 HB 9781851778225

THEA PORTER Helms & Porter £25.00 HB 9781851778263

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Claire Wilcox, ed. £40.00 HB 9781851778270

ACADEMIC DISCOUNT

FA S H ION I N P R I N T 1777 –19 2 7 Catherine Flood and Sarah Grant

THE BIBA YEARS

F L OOD & GR A NT

STYLE AND SATIRE: FA S H I ON I N P R I N T 1777 –19 2 7

The Biba Decade is the last word on a fashion phenomenon.

S TYLE AND SATIRE

BARBARA HULANICKI AND MARTIN PEL

THE BIBA YEARS 1963–1975

SHOES

Front cover: James Gillray (1756–1815), ‘Characters in High Life. Sketch’d at the New Rooms, Opera House’ (detail, p.43)

1963–1975

FA S H ION I N P R I N T 1777–1927

BARBARA HULANICKI AND MARTIN PEL

A Brief History

Back cover: André Edouard Marty (1882–1974), ‘Les Ailes Dans Le Vent’, published in the Modes et manières d’aujourd’hui, Paris, 1919. National Art Library: 95.JJ.24

Lucy Johnston and Linda Woolley

THE BIBA YEARS: 1963–1975 Hulanicki & Pel £35.00 HB 9781851777990

ART NOUVEAU FASHION Clare Rose £25.00 HB 9781851778027

STYLE AND SATIRE Flood & Grant £12.99 PB 9781851778034

BRITISH DESIGN FROM 1948 Breward & Wood, eds £25.00 PB 9781851776757

JOHN CONSTABLE: The Making of a Master Mark Evans £30.00 HB 9781851778003

A HISTORY OF BRITISH MAGAZINE DESIGN Anthony Quinn £30.00 HB 9781851777860

Halina Pasierbska

SHOES: A Brief History Johnston & Woolley £8.99 PB 9781851778379

D I AG H I L E V A N D T H E BA L L ETS RUS SE S , 1 9 0 9 – 1 92 9

Dolls’ Houses from the V&A Museum of Childhood

Dolls’ Houses from the V&A Museum of Childhood Halina Pasierbska

DOLLS’ HOUSES Halina Pasierbska £14.99 PB 9781851778041

DOLLS’ HOUSE COLOURING BOOK Emily Sutton £5.99 PB 9781851778058

CLARA BUTTON AND THE WEDDING DAY SURPRISE De la Haye & Sutton £5.99 PB 9781851778065

THE ARTS OF LIVING: Europe 1600–1814 Miller & Young, eds £25.00 HB 9781851778072

Victoria and Albert Museum Diary 2016

FINNISH DESIGN: A Concise History Pekka Korvenmaa £30.00 HB 9781851778126

SHOES: Pleasure and Pain Helen Persson, ed. £25.00 HB 9781851778324

Pritchard

ISBN 978-1-851-77750-1

V&A PATTERN: 100 POSTCARDS £14.99 Box Set 9781851778157

CHARLES JAMES: DESIGNER IN DETAIL Timothy A. Long £30.00 HB 9781851778218

EMBROIDERY DESIGNS Moira Thunder £19.99 PB 9781851778140

46 spring 2014 just out january – june 2015

WORD & IMAGE Bryant, James & Watson £25.00 HB 9781851778089

A ND THE BALLETS RUSSE S

1 909 – 1 929

D IAG H I LEV

LONDON SOCIETY FASHION: The Wardrobe of Heather Firbank | Lister, Strodder-Davis & Taylor £35.00 HB 9781851778317

DIAGHILEV AND THE GOLDEN AGE OF THE BALLETS RUSSES Pritchard & Marsh, eds £25.00 PB 9781851778355

ART DECO 1910–1939 Benton, Benton & Wood, eds £40.00 HB 9781851778331

WENDY AND THE WALLPAPER CAT Jason Hook & Ilaria Demonti £11.99 HB 9781851778300

BEN Jack Townend £5.99 HB 9781851778287

JENNY THE JEEP Jack Townend £5.99 HB 9781851778294

V&A DIARY 2016

DIARY 2016 £11.99 DESK 9781851778386 £6.99 POCKET 9781851778348

january – june 2015 at a glance 47

V&A EXHIBITION AND DISPLAY PROGRAMME THE WEDDING DRESS: 1775–2014 until 15 March 2015 DISOBEDIENT OBJECTS until 1 February 2015

IN BLACK AND WHITE: Prints and Posters from Africa and the Diaspora 29 November 2014 to 6 July 2015

HORST: Photographer of Style 6 September to 4 January 2015

SMALL STORIES: Dolls’ Houses and the History of the Home 11 December 2014 to 6 September 2015 (V&A Museum of Childhood)

CONSTABLE: The Making of a Master 20 September 2014 to 11 January 2015

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: Savage Beauty 14 March to 19 July 2015 SHOES: Pleasure And Pain 13 June 2015 to 31 January 2016

V&A TOURING EXHIBITIONS DAVID BOWIE IS MCA, Chicago 20 September 2014 to 4 January 2015

HOLLYWOOD COSTUME Academy of Motion Pictures, Los Angeles 1 October 2014 to 1 March 2015

Philharmonie de Paris, Cité de la Musique 28 February to 31 May 2015

RECORDING BRITAIN The Herbert Art Gallery, Coventry 30 January to 26 April 2015

48 exhibitions january – june 2015

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