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VAMP MAGAZINE MAR / APR – 2018

ISSUE

#32

Loads Inside

[ Fr e e do m l ie s i n b e in g B O L D ]

Kick start the season with bold statements emerging from this blossoming spring. Pg. 36


THE POINT, SLIEMA CALVINKLEIN.COM


Cover Credits: Photography: Matthew B Spiteri Model: Austeja at Noticed Model Management Hair: Neville at NVAD

M

arch brings a fresh wave of inspiration to our Vamp pages. We dedicate this issue to all the bold statements emerging from this blossoming spring! This issue kicks off our fashion section which is filled with the hottest trends to transition from cosy woolens to mid-season wonders. Be sure to take notes whilst flicking through our Fashion Spots and Editorial Shoot. This issue balances Malta’s best high street stores with niche international brands. We give our readers an exclusive peek into Versace’s official show as well as all the other hottest shows and street-style trends that were revealed during Milan Fashion Week/Fall 2018, all brought to you by Mark Soler and Justin Ciappara. Our fashion pages come to a close with a tech-inspired interview with Amy Karle - a fashion designer who has built her brand out of a love for science and technology. But March isn’t just about introducing a new wave of fashion trends. Emma Calascione explores the curious world of art fairs - debating the commercialisation of the aesthetic in ‘All is Fair in Art and War’. Then our eclectic interior section shows off furnishing trends by LOFT and interior design by 2Michaels. While our dream holiday discovery this month, Amangiri, is revealed to be a true oasis, situated in the Grand Circle, USA. To close this issue we give you some mouth-watering recipes by Corinthia’s Kitchen sensation - Stefan Hogan, photographed in Corinthia’s Caprice Lounge Bar. So all you’ve got left to do is sit down, play some Lou Reed (also featured this month!) stir up a cup of your favourite drink and enjoy our brilliantly bold March issue.

Editorial VAMP Editorial Team

Mark Soler Justin Chiappara Francesca Pace

Creative Director Chris Psaila

Stylist Carla Grima

Contributing Editor Carla Grima

Sales Manager Sam Psaila 7788 0300

Photographers Matthew B Spiteri Sean Mallia

Sales Keeley Bajada 9996 0446

06 THE BOLD ISSUE

Contributors 2Michaels Alexia Kind Alina Anisimova Amy Karle Emma Calascione Emma Coleiro Jonathan Zammit Julian Cardona Neville Zammit Reuben Borg Victor Vella

This magazine is published by [ V ] Publications – also publishers of Served Magazine + Co publishers of The Malta Artpaper

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. All rights reserved. Dates, information and prices are believed to be correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change and no responsibility is accepted for any errors or omissions. Neither the editor nor the publisher accept responsibility for any material submitted, whether photographic or otherwise. While we endeavour to ensure that the organisations and firms mentioned are reputable. The editor can give no guarantee that they will fulfill their obligations under all circumstances.Copyright 2018 facebook.com/ vampmagazine malta


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015. STYLE FILE_SPRING COLOUR

Be bold, and make the best of this season’s high street hits.

024. MILAN FASHION WEEK

Mark Soler represents VAMP at this years epic event. And Justin Ciappara takes us inside the exclusive Versace shows.

032. WEARABLE TECH

Amy Karle give us insights into her inspiration and astounding ability to thoughtfully play with science and fashion.

036. BOLD STATE

Matthew B Spiteri and Carla Grima get inspired by blue skies and bold colours

045. ALL IS FAIR IN ART AND WAR

VAMP explores the curious world of art fairs beyond their commercial value.

054. A MARRIAGE OF ARTS

Julian Cardona explores Lou Reeds adaptation of the raven by Edgar Allan Poe and illustrated by Lorenzo Mattotti. A graphic novel “meant to be heard in the mind”

059. DREAMING OF ISOLATION

We visit an enchanted oasis situated in the Grand Circle region, surrounded by the largest Native American reservation in the USA.

065. ARCHITECTURE: THE APTHORP

075. SAVOURING SPRING

Corinthia Palace pro chefs cook up some delectable treats to start spring on the right foot.

082. MELLOW YELLOW

A play on spring-inspired yellows will to keep your children looking on trend this season.

085. COLOUR IT IN

Step into spring and get noticed with these makeup choices that are sure to define your look this season.

VAMP checks out Clinton & Russell’s early 20th Century Italian Renaissance Revival building, which is one of the most desirable places to live in New York City.

089. KEEP IT CLEAN

073. MODERN VINTAGE

95. XFM’S LET’S TALK ABOUT SEX

We take inspiration from LOFT in Naxxar featuring eclectic collections of old meets new from art deco furniture with 70’s glass furnishings and prints.

These selections of top brands will leave your skin looking healthy, replenished and silky smooth. Feel awless, feel fresh.

We take a look at XFM’S 100.2 brand new talk show hosted by Melanie Kelly best known as a presenter and TV producer.

THE BOLD ISSUE 07


UPDATE

BOLD ISSUE ‘18

UPDATE. SKINCEUTICALS CLARIFYING CLAY MASQUE Dead skin cells, excess oil and other debris can clog pores, causing blackheads, whiteheads and blemishes. Formulated with natural earth clay, botanical extracts, and a hydroxy acid blend, this deep-pore, refining face mask with Kaolin, Aloe and Chamomile helps to gently exfoliate while enhancing healthy cellular turnover. SkinCeuticals advanced skincare products are exclusively available from Persona Med-Aesthetic Centre in Ta’ Xbiex.

A TASTE OF HISTORY: Hammett’s Maċina Restaurant at Cugo Gran Maċina Opens Its Doors. – A landmark for centuries, unimaginable history seeps from Maċina’s ancient walls. Al fresco dining in fortified surroundings makes for an unforgettable experience. The menu is constructed by a multi-award winning team, and the concept is a modern take on traditional Mediterranean culinary influences, dating back to Phoenician times. Open for dinner throughout the week and lunch at the weekend. Triq ix-Xatt Juan B. Azzopardi Senglea

‘TIME’ REFLECTING THE PAST, CELEBRATING THE PRESENT, HERALDING THE FUTURE Christopher Bailey launched his final collection as President and Chief Creative Officer at Burberry, and dedicated this historical moment to the LGBTQ+ community. The show was inspired by the concept of time through movement, light and sound. This was emphasised by the catwalk’s backdrop: an installation called Our Time loaned from the Museum of Old and New Art, Australia. A collection comprised of past iconic Burberry designs, such as the trench coat and cape, were modelled by their current and past campaign stars. The latest iteration of Burberry’s famous symbol - the Rainbow Check - was revamped by Christopher Bailey, signifying his devotion to the LGBTQ+ community. Burberry is available at SARTO, Ross Street St Julians T: +356 2202 1601 | sarto.com.mt

HUGO’S LOUNGE Hugo’s Lounge is Malta’s hottest dining destination, offering a tantalising blend of sushi, Indian and Asian fusion dishes. Call now on T: 20162499 for reservations or delivery.

BACCO BY HUGO’S Enjoy mouth-watering dim sum and Chinese delicacies at Bacco by Hugo’s. Call us now on 20162498 for reservations.

08 THE BOLD ISSUE


ARRIVE LIKE NEVER BEFORE The new Volvo XC60 is our most agile SUV to date. Active chassis give you unparalleled control. Smooth and comfortable, with maximum road contact. And the T8 Twin Engine runs on both electric and hybrid. Efficiency, without ever compromising performance. INTRODUCING THE NEW VOLVO XC60 MADE BY SWEDEN

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UPDATE

POINTS OFCEREMONY COLLECTION BY OKAÏDI

TWO MATALAN STORES OPEN THEIR DOORS Saturday 17th March marked the official opening of Matalan in Republic Street, Valletta and in Smart Shopping Complex, Birkirkara. Matalan provides everything under one roof, from affordable fashion for the whole family to stylish homewares.Matalan: The Strand - Sliema, Zabbar Road - Fgura, Smart Shopping Complex - Birkirkara, and Republic Street - Valletta.

New and chic spring ceremony collection for a comfortable, smart and casual look. It is split into three main colour schemes: pink and white, blue and white, and turquoise. For boys - combing blazers, trousers, waistcoats, shirts, polo shirts and bermudas. For girls - dresses, skirts, trousers, tops, and jackets. Combine with our selection of accessories and shoes. Age 0 months to 14 years. OKAÏDI, Plaza and Tower Road, Sliema, and Constitution Street, Mosta.

ROCCO’S WHISKEY BAR BOSS SS18 MENSWEAR In Spring/Summer 2018, BOSS heads to the coast for a mellow day under the sun. BOSS tailoring is softened in colour, cut and cloth. Flintstone blues, sun-faded whites and muted navy form the centre of the palette, while double-breasted tailoring is cut from paper-touch cotton, and outerwear is loose and undone. The SS18 menswear collection will be available at BOSS Stores, Malta International Airport, and St. Julian’s.

Dedicated to serving the ‘water of life’ and other alcoholic beverages to the chic and trendy.

ISSUE 2 – OUT NOW. Bringing together Malta and the world though art. Created for and by those who understand that art can better the world, artpaper is supported by various academics, professionals, and companies in Malta and abroad, and aims to be a source of inspiration, discussion, and information. Get your copy from Agenda, WHSmith, and 8TillLate.

010 THE BOLD ISSUE

HUGO’S TERRACE & ROOFTOP Malta’s most vibrant venue is ‘the’ place to socialise and make new friends. Call now on 21376767 for reservations


INSURE YOUR HOME AGAINST THE UNEXPECTED…

P

urchasing a property is probably the largest investment during one’s lifetime, entailing, sacrifice, patience and a huge financial commitment.

Home Insurance Policies usually provide cover for other exigencies. A full list is available on www.gasanmamo.com Can you insure selected items on an All Risks basis? Under a Home Insurance Policy, you can insure several selected personal possessions such as jewellery and electronics on an All Risks basis. This is the widest cover available and covers your possessions for accidental loss or damage anywhere around the Maltese Islands Policies are also extended overseas in the event of short holiday or business trips.

The property is eventually furnished with all types of furniture, furnishings and ornaments. Regardless of how secure your property is, or what security features are installed – you may still be exposed to losses such as fire, storm, flood or theft. Home Insurance is key to protecting yourself and your family from the risk of loss related to owning or occupying a home. Why should you buy Home Insurance? Potential damage to your home can disrupt your financial plans, leaving you devastated. Imagine a short circuit leading to a huge fire at your home. Your lifetime investment, including your beloved possessions & furnishings, is ruined. A huge storm can considerably damage your buildings and contents, leaving you with a potentially hefty bill. Thefts can wipe away all your possessions, including items of sentimental value, leaving you devastated. All these circumstances are already very

Is it expensive to purchase Home Insurance? Home policies are not expensive and for as little as €0.40 cents a day, you can obtain adequate protection for your home. traumatic. Home Insurance eases the pain and frustration during these difficult moments by offering peace of mind at a time where help is most needed.

How do you get started?

What is covered under a Home Insurance Policy?

Buildings – the reconstruction value of the property excluding the value of land.

A Home Insurance policy is a package policy providing a comprehensive cover including:

Contents – the full replacement value of all household contents. Depending on the value to be insured, you may be requested to provide further details on any items of valuables including recent valuations or receipts.

Cover for loss or damage following fire, explosion, lightning, thunderbolt, earthquake, theft, riot, civil commotion, vandalism and acts of malicious persons, storm or flood. Cover for accidental damage to both buildings and contents. Cover for your legal liability towards third parties as the owner/occupier of your buildings.

To obtain a quote for Home Insurance you would require the following information:

Home Insurance will provide you with the protection and peace of mind you require to safeguard your most precious investment – your home. gasanmamo.com


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The better to free our little monsters, Nina Ricci is setting about revising its legendary fragrances. Nina is transforming into a sparkling pear. Enrobed with candyfloss, and Luna into a juicy pineapple, infused with lime, while Luna Blossom is becoming an impertinent mocha with orange blossom.

Exclusively distributed by Ta’Xbiex Perfumery Ltd

Nina Ricci is giving free rein to enchantment. Les Baisers de Nina Ricci unfolds into a joyful frieze of flowers, snakes and stars.


STYLE FILE

Spring Colour _ 2018

‘Paint it Pastel’ A wave of soft tones is adding a serene mood to urban street style. This cooler take on the surf style makes us dream of the long evenings ahead, with true summer vibes! Make this look work for you by opting for lighter denim, neutral jersey tones and pastel blends. 1.

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1. Blue cap, €32 2. Sunglasses, €19 3. Skateboard, €100 4. Patterned cap, €30 5. Sneakers, €84 6. Bag, €63 7. Socks, €13 8. T-shirt, €37 – All by Vans, available at Urban Jungle, Tigne Point.

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Tigne Street Sliema Bisazza Street Sliema


STYLE FILE

Spring Colour _ 2018

‘Fruit-Tease’ Bold, bright and beautiful! These eye catching pieces are sure to bring a playful boost to your spring wardrobe. Contrasting textures and colours are a must for this trend.

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1. Perfume, La Femme Prada, Exclusively available at Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553. 2. Mini skirt, €29.99, Jennyfer. 3. Dress, €240, Twinset available at Mexx. 4. Shoes, €89, Aldo. 5. Perfume, Accessorize Lovelily, Exclusively available at Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553. 6. Shoes, €89, Aldo. 7. Jeans, €90, Monsoon.

T H E B O L D I S S U E 019


THE POINT | VALLETTA | PAOLA | PAMA | BAY STREET | GOZO

Stessyf € 89

Tortorici € 55 ALDOSHOESMALTA


STYLE FILE

Spring Colour _ 2018

‘Waterproof Wonders’ Plastic textures and sporty fabrics are hitting the shops this month. Inject some functionality into the sporadic rainy season! A great trend for those who love urban, streetwear styles.

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1. L’Homme Prada L’Eau, exclusively available at Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553. 2. Jacket, €229, Tommy Hilfiger. 3. Bag, €29.99, Vilanova, available at NOOS. 4. Backpack, €89.90, Calvin Klein Jeans. 5. Jacket, €169.90, Tommy Hilfiger. 6. Bomber jacket, €189, Tommy HIlfiger.

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Spring Collection

MERCHANTS STREET, VALLETTA

T. 21 233 221


STYLE FILE

Spring Colour _ 2018

‘Fresh Frills’ Flirtatious frills are back in fashion yet again. Layers on top of layers of lightweight wavy fabric… and bigger frills for extra drama.

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1. Dress, €360, Twinset available at Mexx. 2. Shoes, €425, Maxmara. 3. Top, €90, Monsoon. 4. Shades, €15.99, Vilanova, available at NOOS. 5. Dress, €180, Monsoon. 6. Perfume, Monsoon Rose Gold, Exclusively available at Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553. 7. Bodysuit, €17.99, Jennyfer. 8. Shoes, €79, Aldo.

T H E B O L D I S S U E 023


STYLE FILE

Spring Colour _ 2018

‘Denim Dreams’ Denim on denim is back for this transitional season. Flashes of denim are making their way onto every bit of clothing in your wardrobe… or what’s soon to be in your wardrobe. This trend may appear anywhere from head to toe!

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1. Dungaree dress, €25.99, Jennyfer. 2. Denim Skirt, €34.99, Greystone, available at NOOS. 3. Denim shirt, €139.90, Calvin Klein Jeans. 4. Shoes, €279, Maxmara. 5. Denim Jacket, €49.99, Jennyfer. 6. Denim Jacket, €39.99, Greystone, available at NOOS. 7. Jeans €169.90, Calvin Klein Jeans.

T H E B O L D I S S U E 025


This month, Mark Soler, Justin Ciappara along with Blogger, Marina Majoie headed to Milan Fashion Week to document the latest looks for Autumn/Winter 2019, and we are thrilled to bring you these images straight off the catwalk... Photos by Mark Soler, All Versace images by Justin Ciappara

Autumn 2018 trends have already hit the runway. This time we are focusing on the third stop of the fashion month: Milan. This fashion capital hosts the most famous names in the industry, from Prada to Fendi, Versace to Armani. This season some seriously game changing ideas were launched in the fashion world, such as the rise of tech fashion in Dolce & Gabbana’s catwalk drones and Gucci’s cyborg-inspired collection. Milan Fashion Week also gave us some breakthrough trends for the winter ahead. >>

Milan Fashion Week: ‘18

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M–F–W ‘18

Best on shows

Neon colour charts, plastic pieces, an ode to the 1970s, big cosy blankets/capes and even some questionable doll-like accessories made an appearance. The front row celebrities were as interesting as the collections themselves. We would have loved to be watching the Gucci show whilst rubbing elbows with Bria Vinaite, Chloe Sevigny and fashion blogging queen, Susie Bubble. But until that opportunity arises, we will just continue to keep you posted from the media pit side lines. >>

T H E B O L D I S S U E 027


M–F–W ‘18

Best on shows

This month, Mark Soler headed to Milan F a s h i o n We e k t o d o c u m e n t t h e l a t e s t l o ok s for Autumn / Winte r 2 0 1 8 , and w e are thrilled to bring you these images straight off the catwalk... What drives you to photograph both foreign and local fashion weeks? When I started photography about three and a half years ago, I started by shooting sports, nature and landscapes. But then I saw I could apply to be a photographer during the Malta Fashion Week and Awards (MFWA). After the fashion week I realised that although I do different work I would focus more on fashion-related photography. From then onwards I haven’t missed a fashion week in Malta and also worked for one of the main sponsors of the event. Every year I will be looking forward for the MFWA, especially to see local designers who are incredibly talented. After attending three local fashion weeks, I wanted to explore fashion weeks abroad. Last year I decided to attend the London Fashion Week and this year the Milan Fashion Week. During these events you try to make contacts and build your portfolio, especially on social media, Instagram and Facebook. What’s it like standing amongst all those photographers in the media pit trying to capture the perfect runway shot? It’s like you’re a small fish in the ocean. When you see other photographers who work for huge publications like Vogue, ELLE, l’Officiel, and GQ, amongst others, you feel it would

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be nice to stand there shooting the same shows as they do. But looking at other photographers, who for every fashion show have their places marked, and whose work is on these huge magazines, and considering also that we sometimes struggle to find a good place to shoot, we did a good job. How did you prepare for your trip to Milan Fashion Week? From beforehand you need to book your flights and most of all accommodation, which in Milan is very expensive, especially these days. Then what you need to do is find a publication that will back you up. This is so your application will be considered, since applying as freelance photographer in Milan is very difficult.

In London it is not even accepted. Thanks to Vamp Magazine and Malta Chamber of Fashion, through Dorianne Mamo, I managed to apply and get the Official Media Pass for the Milan Fashion Week. Also, this year we attended the MFW with two other photographers: Gordon Formosa and Carlo Jourdan. We helped each other a lot during the trip and organised ourselves to maximise the time we had in Milan. What’s the best part about shooting such high-profile shows? The best part is that your photos will be followed locally and even more internationally. You get more followers on Instagram, for example, and also feedback from foreign followers.


M–F–W ‘18

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The highlights from Milan Fashion Week, according to the Vamp team, were definitely Laura Biagiotti’s snowflake colour pallette and beautifully styled bolero hats; glitz and glam in vintage fabric designs at Elisabetta Franchi; the comeback of big bold tulle as seen in many shows, including Prada; and Versace’s revival of the kilt. 1, 2 & 3: D&G 4: Laura Biagiotti. 5, 6, 8: Elisabetta Franchi. 7: Chanel Joan Elkayam

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SLIEMA 46-48 Tower Road Tel. 21 341 961


STYLE FILE M–F–W ‘18

Best on shows

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But fashion week is not just about what designers display on their models going down the catwalk, it’s also about the guests that bring some jawdropping street style inspiration to the city! We saw bold masculine suits, femininely accessorised, as well as nude, layered tones and juxtaposed trends.

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1: Elisabetta Franchi. 2: Alessandro Enriquez. 3: Versace 4: Armani 5 Armani 6: Chanel Joan Elkayam 7. D&G

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STYLE FILE M–F–W ‘18

Versace Show

P h o t o g r a p h e r, Ju s t i n C i a p p a r a a n d b l o g g e r, Marina tour

Majoie

into

went

Ve r s a c e ’s

on latest

an

exclusive

Fal l / Winte r

2018 collection. From the runway to the showroom get a close-up of the esteemed Italian desig n hou s es’ latest look s . Ju stin talks to us about this unforgettable collaboration…

I got the opportunity thanks to the fashion blogger Marina Majoie (@ marina_majoie). Like previous years, she was invited to the Versace Fashion Show in Milan and this year I got the opportunity to collaborate with her during the fashion show and also the showroom. What’s it like standing amongst all those photographers in the media pit trying to capture the perfect runway shot? It felt like it was my first ever fashion show! But after a couple of minutes, I settled down, found my place and made sure everything was ready. As soon as the show started, the atmosphere felt great especially after seeing that I captured some good shots! How did you prepare for your trip to Milan Fashion Week? Since I was invited, I had a luxury trip planned for me, from a Club Class flight to a 5-star hotel! I just made sure I had all the camera equipment needed for

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the fashion show, showroom and for the occasional photoshoot with Marina Majoie. What sort of research did you have to do before shooting the runway looks? For this particular show, we had the chance to meet with the General Manager of Versace who explained what the fashion show is about and what kind of message Versace is giving… to tell stories of women, that one is different from the other, but all are strong, brave, sexy and safe!

And how to you go about obtaining a pass? You have to see which shows you’re interested in and contact the persons in charge to ask what is needed in order to obtain a pass. What’s the best part about shooting such high-profile shows? The best part about shooting such highprofile shows is gaining experience, meeting well known photographers and famous fashion bloggers. This makes me want to continue to pursue my passion for Fashion Photography.

Do you decide beforehand which shows you wish to attend?

Inside Versace’s official Milan showroom

How did you get this fantastic opportunity to shoot not only the latest Versace show but also their showroom?


STYLE FILE M–F–W ‘18

Versace Show

Ve r s a c e F W 1 8 Fashion Show at the Milan F a s h i o n We e k

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The boundary-pushing artist gives insights on her inspiration, vision and ability to thoughtfully play with science, technology and fashion. Words by Alina Anisimova

BY AMY KARLE

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Amy Karle – Brain Songs

“I love that science tells us stories about who we are in times of humanity,” ...says Amy Karle. The American artist and designer employs technologies, like 3D scans of the body and digital manufacturing processes that can be used in healthcare, in intricately constructed garments. The daughter of a pharmacist and a scientist grew up with a threatening birth defect, which made her especially sensitive to the constraints and the capacities of the human body. “For a period of time, the doctors kind of thought that I would have to live in a bubble away from any threat of infection, so growing up I was really interested in how I could heal this so I could be like other children,” Karle says. Perhaps this is one of the main reasons why her artwork bridges the gap between the lab and the fashion studio. “I thought about being a scientist and I always had a big flirtation with science. My mum always thought I should be a

medical illustrator—and in some ways I think I have grown up to be that,” she says. So why did she pursue art and fashion over science? “I was always interested in the body as a great piece of artwork, I wanted to study it from a design context more than science,” she explains. “It’s a way to transform our identity, something that we wear can bring about a change in how we feel about ourselves.” Since graduating from Alfred University and Cornell University, where she received degrees in Art and Design and Philosophy, she has steadily carved out a unique niche for herself. Named one of the “Most Influential Women in 3D Printing”, Amy Karle is one part artist, one part scientist. Since 1998 she has been uniting the hand and the machine, the latest technology and age-old craftsmanship. >>

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So what about the clothes? Her garments honour the body in unusual, yet exciting ways. Futuristic designs are often created using revolutionary laser-cutting and 3D-printing techniques while shapes are calculated by computers. Amy Karles’ latest collection showcases her fascination with a human body. Called Internal Collection, it is based on anatomy and - according to the description - “each garment is inspired by a different system of the human body: lungs, ligaments, and nervous system”. The collection is designed from the inside out. The anatomy-inspired pieces are fragile and the most forward-looking technology is fused with couture sewing techniques. “I was trying to show our internal selves on the outside, but I was also trying to present and show it in a way that it can be really beautiful and em-powering when we show it on the outside,” she explains.

computer and digitally draping it around the body—and that piece took me about three months, just to figure out how to get this piece out of the computer and into the real world,” Karle says. For Karle, technology is not an inspiration, it’s another tool to create her artistic pieces of great beauty. “I’m interested in the new technologies and using them in the processes in terms of what can we now make that wasn’t possible to make before,” she says. Amy Karle is looking forward to the future and her curiosity seems limitless. “I’m thinking about medical futuring, what passions will arise and what our opportunities will be… and the dangers of merging the body and technology. I’m working through these technologies, and the artwork or designs that come in the process is what I see as an artefact of this speculative future.” One might think the machine is the destroyer of art, but Amy Karle proves otherwise. [ V ]

While the collection is very precise, created through a combination of intensive research and experimentation, the human touch is apparent in those fantastically bizarre and futuristic garments. Amy Karle focused on what unites us, showing our internal organs in an external wearable form. “As humans we all have these internal systems; we all have blood, bones, organs, but a lot of times we see our external differences,” she observes. “Just think about men and women, we are 90% alike, but it’s so often focused on that 10% differ-ence.” Of course, it’s a laboriously slow process, and it takes skilled, delicate craftsmanship to create a collection like this. “The first piece was very challenging to make, I worked through this process of 3D scanning the body and then bringing that data to the Amy Karle Biofeedback into Sandin IP

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Amy Karle 2017 08 Dress based on Lungs in Internal Collection

WEARABLE TECH

“I was trying to show our internal selves on the outside, but I was also trying to present and show it in a way that it can be really beautiful and empowering when we show it on the outside,”


WEARABLE TECH

2016 Amy Karle exoskeleton backpiece 03 3D printed wearable sculpture fashion technology art

2016_12 Amy Karle breathe dress wearable art based on human anatomy

Amy Karle egenerative_reliquary

Amy Karle 2017 09 Dress based on cardiovascular system in Internal Collection

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S ‘18

Trend Report

Photographer: Matthew Spiteri Stylist: Carla Grima Model: Austeja, Noticed Models Hair: Neville, NVAD Make up: Lexii Kind Fashion Editor: Carla Grima

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STYLE FILE Dress, â‚Ź210, Twinset, available from Mexx.

Wave the cold winter months goodbye with block colours and bold stripes. Inspiring looks for a journey into the next season.

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Left: Shirt, €60. Jumpsuit, €70. Both available from Monsoon. Sunglasses, €19. Trainers, €59. Both available from Aldo.

Bottom: Jacket, €49.99, Greystone. Chinos, €39.99, Broadway. Both available from Noos.

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Far Left: Dress, €235, Essentiel Antwerp, available from Mexx. Espadrilles, €49, Aldo. Reversible jacket, €545. Top, €185. Trousers, €230. All available from Maxmara.

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Left: Shirt, €29.99, Broadway. Chinos, €39.99, Broadway. Scarf, €12.99, Vilanova. Sunglasses, €15.99, Vilanova. All available from Noos. Sandals, €45, Aldo. Right: Dress, €129.90, Calvin Klein Jeans. Bralette, €38, Calvin Klein Jeans. Sandals, €35, Aldo.

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ART FAIRS

Vamp explores the curious world of art fairs. Synonymous with greed as much as with beauty, some are going against the grain‌ returning to an appreciation of artworks beyond their commercial value. >> Words by Emma Calascione.

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ART FAIRS

The unfairness of the art fair has come under scrutiny over the past few decades. The humble beginnings of fairs like Art Basel in the 1970s are a far cry from the huge proliferation of fairs that fill every art collector’s calendar. Art critics are notorious slaters of the fair format, as it makes them redundant. With no intention to buy art, they have no place there. With art that has no need for the validation of a review, some canny critics have had the foresight to latch themselves on as advisors to the rich, whilst the others continue to hold on to their inherent condemnation. There is a war going on within the art market, between the big bidders and the prejudiced curators, the disgruntled critics and the greedy dealers.

more than seven seconds with a piece of art; either shoved to the side by the next eager viewer or feeling the pressure to ‘see everything’ and somehow truly seeing nothing. This is a problem that we can tackle individually. We need to take the time to explore not what to look at but how. We cannot always blame the art fair: a dismissal of all art fairs is wholly unfair. Many are great. Many provide an opportunity to have an unbiased, first-hand experience before one’s views are unknowingly moulded by the pen of the art critic, who can make or break an artist, as well as add a couple of zero’s to their price tags. Fairs allow the art enthusiast the opportunity to enjoy art outside the sacred temple gallery context. Art fairs also act as an important space in which an object, sitting amongst other objects, can beget a value. Artists must get paid, and pieces must sell. And there will always be room for fairs that that do not seek only financial profit but actually have an ideal that they defend, no matter how difficult it may be to establish them. Whether it is to promote young artists, showcase world art, or represent some other marginal group, new formats are emerging all over the world, be they pop-up fairs, collaborative exhibitions, satellite fairs or artist run initiatives. The hashtag #notbasel has gained popularity after an eponymous satellite show in Miami Beach emerged in an attempt to tackle the elitist stereotypes typically associated with Art Basel and Miami Art Week. Its mission statement claims it to be “the antagonist to the standard fair and in turn, fills the voids left by Miami Art Week’s soullessness through collaboration, direct engagement and fun”. Here are three others that challenge the notions of a typical art fair: >>

Ben Eine, All is fair in love and war, 2014, © Ben Eine, courtesy of Galerie Kronsbein

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he adaptation of this age-old saying (‘All is fair in love and war’), by prolific street artist Ben Eine, raises an interesting question about the ethical and aesthetic pitfalls of the art market. Walking past storefront shutters along London’s Middlesex Street, one can view Eine’s letter murals for free. Yet his paintings now sell for between £10,000 and £20,000. The art world has become increasingly financial. Attend any of the major art fairs and you are sure to rub shoulders with the hedge fund buyers who are transforming art into commodity. It’s a feeding frenzy where the hungriest and wealthiest win. Most fairs are not as egalitarian as they seem, often beginning with complimentary VIP previews before the civilians can even get in after dutifully purchasing their ticket. Curators are often a step ahead of the collectors, by the time fairs like the Frieze are open to the public, most of the good stuff will have been sold. It is a fast-paced strategic game for the galleries and artists too. One critic commented that galleries exist purely to get into the art fairs, rather than the fairs existing to host the galleries. Small galleries feel pressured to exhibit but their price points often don’t match up to the high entrance fees, so it can be a burden. Famed artists overproduce to create works for an excessive quantity of fairs, and other emerging artists are barely considered.

Nothing is fair in love or war, or for that matter, art. Yet the problem is not the art fair itself, but rather the way its context of schmoozers and commodity fetishism have conditioned us to see its offerings. But if you, like me, are simply a person interested in discovering art and making human contact with artists and dealers (which is what fairs should be about) then you need only concern yourself with focusing on perfecting our own individual act of looking, one of the most primitive forms of human intellection. We must remind ourselves that the art fair’s platform is based in this basic human impulse which we must train and nurture, even amid the art fair throngs. One of the main problems with huge fairs is that one can’t seem to spend

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LONDON

The Other Art Fair

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The Other Art Fair, presented by Saatchi Art (22nd–25th March, Victoria House - London) has been called “the perfect opportunity to see up and coming talent in a relaxed setting” (Red Magazine) as well as having “hipster credentials but serious about nurturing talent too” (Telegraph Luxury). By cutting out the middle man, this fair creates a unique visitor experience where one can meet and buy direct from the very best emerging and undiscovered artists. The Other Art Fair inspires and delights with a tightly curated and distinctive programme of immersive fair features that create a platform for the ‘unexpected’ at each fair. This year 120 talented artists, handpicked by a committee of art industry experts, will showcase their finest work. Look out for May Parlar’s conversational pieces, the hauntingly beautiful botanical photographs of Maura Jamieson, and Janet Milner’s monographs – a humorous celebration of ordinariness. ––––––––––––––––––––––>>

1. May Parlar, I See You II, (Limited Edition 1 of 8), 2018, photograph

2. Lou Hamilton, ‘Orb of gold’, ink on paper, 29cm x 29cm

3. Janet Milner, He can’t eat cream, watercolour monotype, 50x60 4. Maura Jamieson, Untitled-Fin, 16x16

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5. Daniela Schweinsberg, Listen to the Colour 1, Acrylic on linen, 160x105cm


LONDON

The Other Art Fair

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STOCKHOLM

Supermarket Art Fair

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Next up on our alternative art fair calendar is Stockholm’s SUPERMARKET (12th-15th April): an international artist-run fair that provides a showcase of artists’ initiatives from all over the world with the aim to display their unique projects and ideas, create opportunities for new networks on the Swedish and international art scene, and share the passion and vitality that are present in this sphere of the art world. What makes it truly alternative is the stipulation that for galleries, art centres and other creative initiatives to participate, they must be exclusively artist-established and artist-run. The goal of SUPERMARKET is to provide a showcase for artist initiatives from all over the world and to create opportunities for new networks in the Swedish as well as international art scenes. The ironically named SUPERMARKET is far from your average commercial art fair. The focus is on exchanging knowledge and not currency. There is a strong focus on collaborating with international spaces, with entries from Russia, Syria, Iran, Turkey, Johannesburg and Ottawa to mention a few. Be sure to see the performance pieces of Zierle and Carter, and check out Penka Mincheva’s colourful canvases. Carlos Martiel’s though provoking tableaus are sure to be a highlight, whilst Oree Holban does things with plasticine that you wouldn’t have thought possible. ––––––––––––––––––––>>

1. Carlos Martiel, ‘Stampede’ (2017), Kunstverein Familie Montez, The Museum of Fine Arts Houston (MFAH), Houston, USA. Photo Michael Duke

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2. Oree Holban, ‘Trapped in a Venus Body’, Nulobaz Gallery, plasticine on wood and plexiglass, 35x43cm, 2017, photo Rami Tsalka

3. Pınar Derin Gençer, ’Fragile’, Istanbul Performance Art, documentation of performance, 2017, photo Engin Güneysu

4. Pınar Derin Gençer, ’Between You and Me’, Istanbul Performance Art, documentation of performance, 2017, photo Pınar Tuncer


STOCKHOLM

Supermarket Art Fair

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BRUSSELS

Independent Art Fair

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If, after a brief hiatus, you feel you have the thirst for just one more, head to Brussels for the European edition of New York’s Independent (8th–11th November). This fair has had nothing but great reviews, celebrated for its exciting blend of established galleries and emerging talent, as well as its deliberate disruption of the standard fair model. The fair feels more like an intimate, informal exhibition, and favours quality over quantity. Its winning formula of art, community, activism and group action make it the most democratic of events. The dealers are inconspicuous, and labels are scarce. This might make it harder to navigate but it feels overall like a more tribal experience. Whilst the list of galleries is still in formation at the time of this article, highlights from the New York edition include artists Jack Pierson, Dorothy Iannone, Josephine Meckseper and Rebecca Ackroyd. –––––––––––––––––––––––––––>>

Embrace the upcoming art fair season, and with it the interwoven, complex assortment of international fine art galleries that comprise the art world. Rest assured that there are initiatives that encourage the evaluation of existing models, creating an environment that is more conducive to truly looking. Aptly put by the late Hudson (who went by one name), founder of gallery Feature Inc. in New York, “art is primarily about the development of consciousness, not the development of an object. The object is just a catalyst.” Approached from this viewpoint, the art fair may just contain the potential to act as a consciousness-raising entity, training us to encounter art in a way that is significantly more in line with the chaos of daily life. Despite the mishmash of mediums, modes and attitudes, it teaches us to find joy in even the briefest moment of quiet reflection. [ V ] 054 T H E B O L D I S S U E


BRUSSELS

Independent Art Fair 1

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1. Dorothy Iannone, Look At Me, 1970/71. Collage and acrylic on canvas 190 x 150 cm Š Photo Jochen Littkemann, Berlin courtesy of the artist and Air de Paris, Paris

2. Josephine Meckseper, Bright Bay Cars/Gratis, 2013. Cast concrete, painted wood, acrylic on canvas, pigment print on anodised aluminium in blackened stainless steel and glass vitrine 254 x 121.9 x 121.9 cm Š Josephine Meckseper. Courtesy Timothy Taylor, London/New York.

3. Rebecca Ackroyd, Civil Soup, 2017 (detail). Gouache, charcoal and soft pastel on somerset satin paper 95 x 140 cm (37 x 55 in) . Courtesy Peres Projects, Berlin. Photographer: Matthias Kolb.

4. Jack Pierson, BREAKFAST, HOPE DINNER, FEAR 1982. Plastic panels and lettering.15 1/4 x 20 inches each panel in diptych 38.7 x 50.8 centimeters. Courtesy of the artist and Cheim & Read.


A MARRIAGE OF ARTS

Soundtrack to Literature: A Marriage of Arts A graphic novel “meant to be heard in the mind.” Words: Julian Cardona

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A MARRIAGE OF ARTS

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ou Reed is arguably one of the most innovative recording artists of the past three decades. Just to get an idea of how big his influence was, one need only consider U2’s Bono words about him: “every song we’ve written was a rip-off of a Lou Reed song.” One of the features that set him apart was his thirst for challenging both listener and himself- the comfort zone was a limbo he was not too fond of. Thus, it should come as to no surprise that one of his most ambitious projects was delivered in 2003 when he decided to explore the tortured art of what he called his “spiritual forefather”: the nineteenth century master of Gothic Horror himself, Edgar Allan Poe. The child borne out of this act of love was an ambitious combination of Edgar Allan Poe’s poems and stories and Reed’s torturous soundtracks that saw the light of day first as a musical, then as a music album and finally as a graphical novel. It tuned out that Reed’s own vision of the beauty of sorrow was a fit-for-purpose companion for the horror writer’s musings and that’s why the American singer managed to bridge the centuries to provide a unique vision of beauty and horror for the modern era. Whether one is into this sort of Gothic delicacy, it is hard not to appreciate the forward-thinking prowess of Reed. Just browsing through the graphical novel, one cannot regard the illustrations of Lorenzo Mattotti with indifference- the impossible geometries of shadows and characters, the abstract use of colours that are almost a parody of colourfulness, the inhuman postures of tortured meditation, the mixture of artistic depth and almost childlike sketches- all serve to pour life into Poe’s twisted narrations that had to spring from a very personal hell of his. Now take these visions, listen to Reed’s music and read poe’s poems and stories infused with heartbreak, mist, war, creatures, desperation, the love of death and death of love and you can

fully imbibe the artist’s contribution: It is a merger of words, colour and sonic beauty that almost seemed destined to come together, even though conceived centuries apart. How far ahead of his time was Reed? Whereas in the art of movie making it is very common to see a combination of visual and musical art, this is still uncommon in literature. With audiobooks on the rise readers are now being treated with the deeper experience of having a haunting tale being narrated by professional actors who are adept in giving life to emotions described by words and characters designed on pages. But how would it be if we did it Lou Reed’s way and provide layers of music to enhance the experience? How many times have you seen readers on bus attempt that by listening to their Ipod whilst reading, perhaps choosing songs that correspond to the emotions being described on paper? The human experience is a marriage of five senses that create memorable moments of existence. We see this in musicals, movies, theatre, dances, so why can’t we see it happening in literature? Mark and Paul Cameron, the CEO’s of a company called Booktrack, decided to do just that. Over the course of about three years, the Cameron brothers set up a service to provide movie-like soundtracks for digital books, five of which are available now for download onto an iPhone or iPad. Creative designers read each book and determine what music and sounds should be used, and where. It all comes together with a composer, an audio technician, and sometimes, a sound producer. Cameron said it was only natural to seek out sound experts from the film industry, and they try to work with writers when they can. “It’s almost like having your own personal conductor directing you as you’re reading,” Cameron explained.

special effects in her own mind. By creating a soundtrack for a book one might be intruding on such an experience and lift off some of the illusion that comes with reading a book. And what about the pace? Each reader creates his own experience by altering the reading pace according the segments of the book that mean the most to him. How would a soundtrack affect this? Indeed, some argue that the whole nature of book reading changes. David Gutowski, better known as “Large Hearted Boy,” blogs about books and music, writing and soundtracks. “Once you add music to a book and as one piece of art, I don’t know if you can call that a book anymore. It’s more of a multimedia experience,” he says. As always, the beauty of art is that it is subjective. To one such innovation might mean an enhancement of the overall experience, to another it might mean intrusion. What is important here is that those who, like Reed, have a merged vision of art, can start to eagerly anticipate a world in which their reading experience is elevated to a new level thanks to the transcendental effect of music. Whether it is fast, military style drumming during a chase scene or a melancholic violin during a romantic interlude, if this serves to draw more people back to reading then we should welcome it with open arms and let no one call the written word a dying art anymore. >>

Of course, this is not for everyone. Critics might point out that reading is a very personal experience and each reader makes up her own movie, soundtrack and

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A MARRIAGE OF ARTS { L ou R e e d’s re w r ite of “ The R aven” }

O nc e up on a m i dn i g ht dre ar y as I p onde re d, we a k and we ar y ove r many a qu ai nt and c ur i ous volu me of forgotte n l ore w hi l e I no dde d, ne arly nappi ng su dde n ly t he re c ame a t appi ng as of s ome one ge nt ly rappi ng r appi ng at my chamb e r do or “‘ Tis s ome v is itor,” I mutte re d “t appi ng at my chamb e r do or on ly t his and not hi ng more.” Mutte r i ng I got up we a k ly a lw ay s I’ve ha d t roubl e sl e e pi ng stu mbl i ng upr i g ht my mi nd raci ng f u r t ive t hou g ht s f l ow i ng once more I , t he re hopi ng for s ome sunr is e happi ne ss wou l d b e a sur pr is e l onel i ne ss no l onge r a pr i z e r appi ng at my chamb e r do or s e ek i ng out t he cl e ve r b ore l o st i n dre ams fore ver more on ly t his and not hi ng more Hove r i ng my pu ls e w as raci ng st a l e tob a c c o my l ips t ast i ng s c otch s itt i ng up on my b asi n re m nant s of t he n i g ht b e fore c ame ag ai n i n fe r na l t appi ng on t he do or i n my mi nd j abbi ng is it i n or out s i de r appi ng c a l l i ng out to me onc e more t he f it and f u r y of L e nore namel e ss he re fore ve r more And t he s i l ke n s a d u nce r t ai n r ust l i ng of t he pu r pl e c ur t ai n t hr i l l e d me, f i l l e d me w it h f ant ast i c te r rors ne ver felt b e fore s o t hat now, oh w i nd, sto o d bre at h i ng hopi ng ye t to c a l m my bre at h i ng “‘ Tis s ome v is itor e nt re at i ng e nt r anc e at my chamb e r do or s ome l o st v is itor e nt re at i ng e nt r anc e at my chamb e r do or t his it is , and not hi ng more.” D e e p i nto t he d ark ne ss p e e r i ng l ong I sto o d t here wonde r i ng fe ar ing doubt i ng dre ami ng f ant asi e s no mor t a l d are d to dre am b e fore but t he s i l e nc e w as unbroke n and t he st i l l ne ss g ave no toke n and t he on ly word t he re sp oke n w as t he w hisp e re d name, “L e nore.” t his I t hou g ht and out l ou d w hisp e re d f rom my l ips t he fou l name fe ste re d

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e choi ng its el f me rely t h is, and not h i ng more B ack i nto my chamb e r tur ni ng e ve r y ne r ve w it h i n me bur ni ng w he n once ag ai n I he ard a t appi ng s ome w hat l oude r t han b e fore “surely,” s ai d I surely t hat is s ome t h i ng at my i ron st airc as e op e n t he do or to s e e w hat t h re at is op e n t he w i ndow, f re e t he shutters l e t us t h is myste r y e x pl ore oh , burst i ng he ar t b e st i l l t h is once and l e t t h is my ste r y e x pl ore it is t he w i nd and not h i ng more Just one e pit he t I mutte re d as i nsid e I g ag ge d and shudde re d w he n w it h man ly f l i r t and f lutter i n t he re f l e w a st ately rave n sl e ek and rave nous as any fo e not t he l e ast ob e is ance made he not a m i nute s ge sture towards me of re co g nit i on or p ol ite ne ss but p e rche d ab ove my chamb e r do or t h is fow l and s a l iv at i ng v is age i nsi nu at i ng w it h its k now l e dge p e rche d ab ove my chamb e r do or si l e nt s at and st ar i ng not h i ng more Askance, aske w t he s el f ’s s ad f anc y sm i l e s at you I swe ar at t h is s av age v is cous counte nance it we ars Thoug h you show he re shor n and shaven and I adm it mys el f forl or n and craven g hast ly g r i m and anci e nt rave n wande r i ng f rom t he opi ate shores tel l me w hat t hy l ord ly name is t hat you are not ni g ht mare s e wage s ome di re p owde r dr i n k or i n ha l at ion f rame d f rom f l ame s of dow ntow n lore quote s t he rave n, “ne ve r more.” And t he rave n sitt i ng l onely st ar i ng si ck ly at my ma l e s e x on ly t hat one word as i f h is s ou l i n t hat one word he di d outp our, “p at he t i c.” not h i ng f ar t he r t han he utte re d not a fe at he r t he n he f lutte re d t i l l f i na l ly was I t hat mutte re d as I st are d du l ly at t he f l o or “ot he r f r i e nds have f l ow n and l e f t me f l ow n as e ach and e ve r y hop e has f l ow n b efore as you no doubt w i l l fore t he mor row.” but t he bi rd s ai d, “ne ve r, more.” The n I felt t he ai r g row de ns e r p e r f ume d f rom s ome uns e e n i ncens e as t houg h acce pt i ng angel i c i nt r usion


A MARRIAGE OF ARTS

w he n i n f a c t I felt c ol lus i on b efore t he g u is e of f a ls e me mor i e s re spite respite t h rou g h t he ha z e of c o c ai ne’s g l or y I s moke and s moke t he blu e v i a l’s g l or y to forge t at onc e t he b as e L e nore qu ot h t he r ave n , “ne ve r more.” “Prophe t ,” s ai d I , “t hi ng of e v i l prophe t st i l l, i f bi rd or de v i l by t hat he ave n t hat b e nd ab ove us by t hat G o d we b ot h i g nore tel l t his s ou l w it h s or row l a de n w i l l f u l and de st r u c t ive i nte nt how ha d l ap s e d a pu re he ar t l a dy to t he g re e di e st of ne e ds s we at y ar ro g ant di ck l e ss l i ar w ho as c r ib e d to not hi ng hi g he r t han a j ab f rom pr i ck to ne e d l e st r aig ht to b e t r ay a l and dis g r a c e t he cons c i e nc e show i ng not a t r a c e.” qu ot h t he r ave n , “ne ve r more.” “B e t hat word ou r s i g n of p ar t i ng bird or f i e nd,” I yel l e d upst ar t i ng “get t he e b a ck i nto t he te mp e st into t he s moke f i l l e d b ott l e’s shore le ave no bl a ck plu me as a toke n of t he sl i me t hy s ou l hat h sp oke n le ave my l onel i ne ss u nbroke n qu it as t ho s e have qu it b e fore t a ke t he t a l on f rom my he ar t and s e e t hat I c an c are no more w hate ve r matte re d c ame b e fore I vanish w it h t he de a d L e nore.” qu ot h t he r ave n , “ne ve r more.” But t he r ave n , ne ve r f l itt i ng st i l l is s itt i ng s i l e nt s itt i ng ab ove a p ai nt i ng s i l e nt p ai nt i ng of t he fore ve r s i l e nc e d w hore and h is e ye s have a l l t he s e e m i ng of a de mon’s t hat is dre ami ng and t he l ampl i g ht ove r hi m st re am ing t hrow s his sha dow to t he f l o or I love she w ho hate s me more I love she w ho hate s me more and my s ou l sha l l not b e l i f te d f rom t hat shadow ne ve r more

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STYLE FILE


TRAVEL

Find your inner peace within this desert oasis, designed for personal indulgence.

Dreaming of...

Wo r d s > Carla Grima T H E B O L D I S S U E 061


TRAVEL

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TRAVEL

Amangiri, also known as ‘peaceful mountain’, is a resort built among dreamy landscapes and ethereal natural colours. This taste of heaven is situated in the Grand Circle region, surrounded by the largest Native American reservation in the USA. The secluded resort is a haven for those who need to escape the daily rat race and reconnect with nature, mind, body and soul. The complimentary yoga and pilates sessions as well as guided group hikes will leave you feeling rejuvenated and rebooted. Adventurous horse riding and exciting via ferrata fixed climbing routes are also offered at this spectacular resort. >>

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TRAVEL

For those who find relaxation in less exerting exercise, Amangiri also offers a rejuvenation experience through its serene spa, offering all treatments, including Navajo Native American healing traditions, with spa journeys designed to restore ‘hozho’, a Navajo word for ‘beauty, harmony, balance and health’. Amangiri ensures that every experience within its grounds is of visual luxury. This is emphasised throughout their culinary service of locally grown and provisioned ingredients. Their dining area overlooks the main swimming pool and mountainous scenery and also includes a large open fireplace for those who prefer a cosier dining experience. [ V ] This superbly well-thought-out resort makes for a fantasy resort destination.

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carlagrima.com

carlagrima


ARCHITECTURE

With artistic vision and a love for renovation, 2 Michaels let us in on one of their New York residential projects. This home will inspire any new homeowners with a passion for an eclectic mix of both art + comfort ––––––––––––>>

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ARCHITECTURE

The Apthorp, Clinton & Russell’s early 20th Century Italian Renaissance Revival building, is one of the most desirable places to live in New York City. The project was a renovation of a three-bedroom, 4,000 sqft. apartment. With the ornate mouldings and neo-classic architectural details, 2Michaels decided to keep the rooms spare and the upholstery form soft, introducing their clients to furniture designers such as Josef Frank, Nana Ditzel, Frits Henningsen, Philip Arctander and Otto Schultz.

The Apthorp >

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ARCHITECTURE

...“We pared back the detail for restraint, but all the plasterwork matches the original, as we wanted to respect the history of the building”...

When it comes to dream places for a Manhattan pied-à-terre, The Apthorp probably sits high on many people’s lists. It certainly did for the Las Vegas-based clients of Joan and Jayne Michaels, the design sisterhood formally known as 2Michaels. The husband, a professional poker player, grew up in Gotham; for him, Clinton & Russell’s landmark early 20th-century Italian Renaissance Revival pile held a long-time marker in the wish-fulfillment department. The wife, a trained nurse, felt similar about the place, and loved the neoclassical quality of its expansive, high-ceilinged rooms. First came a sensitive, soup-to-nuts renovation of the three-bedroom, 4,000-square-foot interior. Architect Scott Ageloff tweaked the plan to create more entertaining and living space, redid the kitchen, overhauled the bathrooms, and more. “Virtually everything you see is new, including all the finishes,” he says. “We pared back the detail for restraint, but all the plasterwork matches the original, as we wanted to respect the history of the building.” >>

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ARCHITECTURE

...“ We decided to focus on a European look; and to source as much as possible from Europe, specifically from Scandinavia, northern Europe, Austria, and Germany ”...

070 THE BOLD ISSUE

As the couple struggled with furnishings, they turned to the Michaels sisters. Joan says, “both of them liked how we use antiques and that we have slightly quirky taste.” The first piece that the designers selected—the living room’s Jacques Hauville-designed yellow floor lamp from the 1950s—was an inspiration for everything that followed. The sisters and their clients decided to concentrate on a European look; to source as much as possible from Europe, specifically from Scandinavia, northern Europe, Austria, and Germany; and to keep the rooms spare and the upholstery forms soft. As the Michaels introduced their clients to looking at antiques and the ins-and-outs of the auction experience, the couple took to the process like naturals—and began obsessing over pieces - finding the right ones for the environment along with their designers. >>


STYLE FILE

“ The first piece that the designers selected was the living room’s Jacques Hauvilledesigned yellow floor lamp from the 1950s ”

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W W W. H U G O S H O T E LS . C O M St. George’s Road Paceville • St. Julian’s • Malta

+356 2016 2420

info@hugoshotels.com


ARCHITECTURE

Early in the project, Jayne says, “when we were looking at books on northern Europe and thinking about compositions, we gravitated toward Vermeer because of his colours, the way he arranged the interiors he painted, and his filtered light.” The influence of the Dutch painter’s eye is discernible in the choice of silhouettes, furniture placement and table-top arrangements, palette selections, and the overall timeless feeling of the rooms. As the gamble of decoration goes, that’s taking the hand you’re dealt and playing the cards right. [ V ]

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Contact us about our complimentary home interior styling services

21, Triq San Pawl Naxxar NXR 4018 (+356) 2099 9966 www.loft.com.mt Opening Hours: Mon. to Fri. 10am – 7pm Saturday 10am – 5pm


LIVING TRENDS

Spring Colour _ 2018

‘Modern Vintage’ An eclectic collection of old meets new. Taking inspiration from art deco furniture and 70’s glass furnishings and giving them new life with modern touches of fabric, colour and form.

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1. Versmissen, Moonglobe Minimal Lighting. Available at Loft 2. HK Living, Insects School Chart Wall Art. Available at Loft 3. Flamant, Gurvana Chandelier. Available at Flamant Malta 4. Vibieffe, Nido Sofa. Available at Loft 5. Hübsch Coloured Glass. Available at Loft 6. HK Living, Jungle Wall Art. Available at Loft 7. Tabitha Vases Available at Flamant

T H E B O L D I S S U E 075


Summer, it’s just around the corner! Tranquility in the heart of the island. CORINTHIA PALACE HOTEL AND SPA, DE PAULE AVENUE, SAN ANTON, BZN9023, MALTA +356 2144 0301 | SANANTON@CORINTHIA.COM | CORINTHIA.COM/PALACE


CUISINE PG.80

Cutlery & Flowers By LOFT, Naxxar

ROAST LAMB WITH NETTLE PUREE AND CHERRY GEL

Savouring

SPRING. E xe c ut ive S ous C he f Jonat han Z am m it, C he f de Par t i e Vi c tor Vel l a & C he f de Par t i e R e ub e n B org C or i nt h i a Pa l ace Hotel

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Cutlery & Flowers By LOFT, Naxxar

CUISINE

CHARRED OCTOPUS, MISO AND GRAPES PG.80

078 T H E B O L D I S S U E


Vase from LOFT, Naxxar

CUISINE

STRAWBERRIES & WHITE C H O C O L AT E serves 4 STRAWBERRY SORBET: 166g strawberry purÊe 150g water 25g trimoline 40g sugar 1g gellan gum For the sorbet, bring all the ingredients to a boil (they must reach 176° C), allow to cool and churn in a small ice cream machine. Transfer to a bowl and place in a freezer, covered until ready to serve.

WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE: 60g white chocolate 1/2 gelatine leaf 17g cream 7g icing sugar 85g cream, soft whipped For the white chocolate mousse, melt the white chocolate in a bain-marie, then leave to cool slightly. Dissolve the gelatin by warming the cream slightly and stirring in the gelatine to dissolve. Combine with the icing sugar and add the cooled chocolate to the cream. Strain into a bowl set over ice, and once the mix has semi-set, fold in the semi-whipped cream, pour into desired moulds and chill well. Serve with home-dried strawberries, pistachio powder, strawberry gelee and pistachio sponge.

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Image : C or i nt h i a Pa l a c e Hotel

CUISINE

PEA MOUSSE WITH COURGETTES AND MINT G R A N I TA serves 4 PEA MOUSSE: 600g peas 120ml soy milk (chilled) 90ml extra virgin olive oil (chilled) 4g salt Pinch of sugar 2 gelatine leaves In a blender, place the peas, chilled soy milk, cold oil, salt and sugar, then blend and pass through a fine sieve. Bloom the gelatine leaves in cold water and when soft, squeeze off excess water. Place in a small bowl and mix with 100ml of the pea puree, melt over a bain-marie until gelatine has dissolved. Pass through a fine sieve to add to the remaining puree. Chill until needed.

080 T H E B O L D I S S U E

MINT GRANITA: 150g mint leaves 500ml water 2g salt 40g castor sugar 100g spinach Blanch the spinach in boiling salted water for a few seconds and transfer to a bowl of iced water to refresh. Bring the water, salt and sugar to the boil until the sugar has dissolved. Allow to cool and chill. Place the mint and spinach in a blender with the syrup blend and pass through fine muslin to ensure no solids pass. Place in a shallow tray in the freezer. Every so often take it out and run a fork through it to get separate ice crystals. To dress: pipe a generous amount of the pea mousse onto the plate, decorate with thinly sliced baby courgettes, peas, edamame beans, granita and a fresh herb olive oil.


CUISINE

< Pg.75

< Pg.76 CHARRED OCTOPUS, MISO AND GRAPES serves 4 OCTOPUS:

ROAST LAMB WITH NETTLE PUREE AND CHERRY GEL serves 4 NETTLE PUREE: 200g nettles, cleaned (leaves only) 40g potatoes, cut into small cubes 20ml cream 10g butter Salt and pepper For the nettle puree, blanch the nettles in boiling salted water for 30 seconds and refresh in iced water, then drain and squeeze out all excess moisture. Cook the potatoes in boiling water until soft, then pass through a fine sieve. Blend the nettles in a food processor to get a smooth puree. Warm the butter and milk and fold into the sieved potatoes. Adjust seasoning, and just before serving, fold in the nettle puree. This needs to be served immediately to retail the fresh green colour. LAMB RACK: 4 x 2 or 3 bone lamb racks (French trim) 45ml olive oil 1 garlic clove Few sprigs of rosemary & thyme 20g Dijon mustard Salt and pepper 30g butter For the lamb, heat the olive oil in an ovenproof pan. Season the lamb racks with salt and pepper and add to the pan, sear until coloured all over. Remove the lamb from the pan and pour out the excess oil. Place the pan back on the heat and turn the heat down to low. Return the lamb back to the pan, fatside down, and cook for 8 minutes to render

082 T H E B O L D I S S U E

the fat. Add the garlic, rosemary and thyme and place in an oven for 10 minutes. Then remove and add the butter baste liberally to flavour, and allow to rest. Pat dry and brush with the mustard. CROQUETTES: 2 baking potatoes 175g cauliflower florets 100g veal sweetbreads, blanched and cubed 2g toasted cumin seeds 2g chilli flakes salt, to taste Black pepper 2 eggs, beaten 50g plain flour, you may need extra Panko breadcrumbs Vegetable oil For the croquettes, score potatoes with a knife and bake in an oven set at 190°C. Allow to cook through, and once the potatoes are cool enough to handle, scoop out the insides and place in a large bowl. Blanch the cauliflower in boiling salted water until tender, then leave to cool. Mash the cauliflower lightly with a fork and add it to the potato mixture. Add the toasted cumin seeds, chilli, salt and black pepper, then mix. Add the veal sweetbreads and gently toss the mixture until evenly combined. Make the croquettes by rolling. Next, coat them in plain flour, egg and finally panko breadcrumbs. Place the croquettes in the fridge to chill and set. When you are ready to fry them, heat the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan. Deep fry the croquettes for 2–3 minutes or until golden, then transfer onto kitchen paper with a slotted spoon. To dress the plate, place a large spoon of nettle puree, the carved lamb and decorate with veal sweetbread croquette and a tart cherry puree.

1 octopus, weighing 2–2½ kg 1 lemon, zested 1 lime, juice only 3 garlic cloves 3 litres water 200ml white wine ½ fennel bulb 1 carrot, sliced 1 onion, sliced To cook the octopus, place the lemon zest, lime juice, garlic, fennel, carrot and onion in a large pot and add the water and the wine. Bring to the boil over a high heat and add 5g salt. Use kitchen tongs to dip the octopus a couple of times in the liquid, then submerge and release into the water. The dipping will help the tentacles to curl up for presentation. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan and simmer the octopus for about 1 hour, or until tender. Remove, rinse and allow to cool. MISO MAYONNAISE: 10g garlic cloves 10g ginger 30ml white wine vinegar 45g white miso 4 egg yolks 30ml cold water 10g maple syrup 3g salt ½ lime, juice only 150ml vegetable oil For the miso mayonnaise, combine the garlic, ginger, vinegar, miso, egg yolks, water and maple syrup. Blend until smooth. Gradually add the oil to form a thick mayonnaise, place in a bowl, add the salt and lime juice, adjust to taste. Cut one tentacle per portion, pat it dry and lightly brush with olive oil, then pass a blow torch over the skin to lightly char the outside. Serve with pickled grapes, white miso, selected baby herbs and a dusting of sweet paprika.


STYLE FILE

Spring Colour _ 2018

‘Mellow Yellow’ Girls: Scarf, €9.99. Sunglasses, €8.99. Hat, €9.99. Doll, €14.99. Shoes, €26.99. Yellow cardigan, €14.99. Spotted top, €14.99. Shorts, €21.99. All available at Okaïdi.

A play on spring-inspired yellows will keep your children looking on trend in the playground. Have some fun combining this colour with nautical stripes, or keep it classically spring with floral prints.

Boys: Cap, €8.99. Shoes, €24.99. Hat, €9.99. Denim shirt, €16.99. Bag, €16.99. Yellow trousers, €14.99. Cardigan, €24.99. Long sleeved panda tee, €9.99. All available at Okaïdi.

84 THE BOLD ISSUE


FINE-TUNE THE BEST OF YOU

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M ED-A ES T HET IC

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Any med-aesthetic procedure carries risks. Always seek prior advice from an appropriately qualified medical practitioner. Image used for illustration purposes only.

CENT R E

DERMATOLOGY

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SKIN CARE

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FACE FIRST

Step into spring and get noticed with these makeup choices that are sure to define your look this season. Mix and match eyeshadows and go for super matte lips to achieve a brighter, more colourful result thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sure to impress.


FACE FIRST

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1. CLARINS JOLI ROUGE VELVET A new matte finish on Clarins’ legendary lipstick in a luxuriously hydrating formula. Seamless balance between nondrying lip makeup and flawless velvet look. Light and creamy texture, gliding gently onto the skin. The intense matte colour instantly illuminates the lips and cares for them too. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries.

2. CLARINS 4-COLOUR EYE PALETTE The eye shadows in this palette contain sensory mineral textures with immediate results that allow adjustable, smooth and high-resistance makeup while nurturing the eyelids. Satin, matte or iridescent, the eye shadows can be mixed and matched. Dermatologically and ophthalmologically tested. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries.

3-6. CID I-SHADOW PALETTES The new CID i-shadow palettes contain the perfect combination of colours to create on trend makeup looks, all the time. The i-gel can be used for a bolder look, and the i-smoulder is sure to work a charm for a smokey eye. Finish with the i-flutter which is the perfect mascara to separate, lift and lengthen your lashes, in an easy sweep of our innovative fine bristle wand. For trade enquiries contact CAREWELL by Reactilab, A1 Hal-Warda Complex, Hal-Warda Road, Attard, ATD 1400. Tel: 99828498. Email: sales@reactilab.com T H E B O L D I S S U E 089


FACE FIRST

A busy life can take its toll and by the end of the day clogged pores need to be relieved of impurities. Cleanse the skin deeply to reveal a glowing complexion underneath. This selection will leave you looking healthy, replenished and silky smooth. Feel flawless, feel fresh.

Keep it

CLEAN. 1. CLARINS GENTLE FOAMING CLEANSER WITH SHEA BUTTER “DRY/SENSITIVE SKI As gentle as cleansing milk, as effective as soap, a daily face wash with targeted ingredients for dry or sensitive skin. It preserves the natural moisture balance. With Shea butter and Pro-Vitamin B5, it softens and soothes, while floating away traces of make-up, pollutants and poreclogging debris. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries. 2. CLARINS GENTLE FOAMING CLEANSER WITH TAMARIND “OILY SKIN” For oily skin. This refreshing, skin destressing, daily exfoliating cleanser leaves skin smooth, soft and luminous. It preserves the skin’s natural balance. With gentle tamarind fruit acids, it frees pores of trapped make-up, excess oil, pollutants and dead cells for a refined, matte complexion. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries. 3. SHISEIDO WASO SOFT + CUSHY POLISHER A polisher that gently scrubs the skin with botanical granules. Removes excess surface cells and impurities deep in pores for a silky smooth finish. Formulated with tofu, made from soybeans to help support skin. Dermatologist-tested, non-comedogenic and an environmentally-friendly formula. Shiseido is exclusively represented by C+M Marketing Ltd. Tel: 2142 4079. 090 T H E B O L D I S S U E


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‘ Protect your skin and keep your face healthy with proper cleansing methods and top products. It’s easy to clear away dead skin cells, excess skin oils, environmental pollutants and organisms that clog your pores and irritate and age your face. ‘ 4.

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5. POLAAR ARCTIC COTTON GENTLE SCRUB Soft scrub with dual peeling and polishing action, ensuring instantaneous results. Removes dead skin cells and improves complexion. Arctic Cotton is a hydrating, detoxifying and soothing active ingredient. Suitable for all skin types. Does not contain alcohol, parabens and mineral oils. Exclusively available at Ta’ Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553

6. DR. GRANDEL CLEANSING SERIES A well-groomed appearance starts with cleansing, which optimally prepares the skin for subsequent care. The active ingredient compositions in this series have been brought to such perfection that both skin-deep cleansing and the desired feeling of ‘free, soft, fresh or fine’ skin is achieved are catered for. For trade enquiries contact CAREWELL by Reactilab, Tel: 99828498. Email: sales@reactilab.com T H E B O L D I S S U E 091


FACE FIRST

Perfect

RADIANCE Perfect your complexion with a colour-correcting primer suited to your skin tone, and ensure that you achieve that radiant glow.

CLARINS SOS PRIMER A range of colour-correcting complexion primers for every skin tone. White, the sum of all colours, imitates light on the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface and enhances its radiance. High Lumitech complex instantly corrects, revives and illuminates the skin. The result is impeccable and your make-up lasts longer. Available from all leading pharmacies and perfumeries.

T H E B O L D I S S U E 093


UPDATE

I

L E T ’ S TA L K A B O U T SEX Let’s Talk about Sex is a brand new talk show on XFM 100.2 hosted by Melanie Kelly, best known as TV presenter and producer, and whose animated personality and nononsense attitude will surely make this show unmissable!

The show will feature sex and relationship experts. Every week a different topic will be discussed in detail. The show will explore orgasms, desire, how social media affects our sex life, sex and food and much more. And while we are on the topic of sex and food, here’s a little taste of what will be discussed on the show.

contains the most. Other foods that also increase PEA are apples, avocadoes, tomatoes, almonds, and cheddar cheese. The mere scent of almonds is supposed to increase a woman’s sex drive, and has the added bonus of potentially improving heart health. Let’s not forget spices such as ginger and ginseng which are said to increase blood circulation. Ginseng in particular is thought to increase the libido by exciting the central nervous system. Cinnamon and nutmeg are also rumoured to stimulate sexual feelings! Want to know more about sex, sex and food, and sex in general? Then make sure you tune in to XFM 100.2 every Thursday at 7pm, starting 12th April!

There is a very close relationship between love, sex and food. In fact, it is barely possible to feel romantic on an empty stomach, but in contrast, when you first meet someone and are completely infatuated, you often lose all sense of appetite. The human need for food and sex are basic, part of the foundation of our nature, which is why they are so closely knit together. Eating certain foods are also said to increase your feeling of wellbeing and increase your sex drive. According to some researchers, there are some foods that you only have to smell or see to start thinking about sex. Chocolate, for example, has long been thought to be an aphrodisiac. It contains the chemical PEA, which creates a rush or feeling of euphoria. Dark chocolate

T H E TBH OE LB DO L DI SI SS SU UE E 0 09 97 7


SET OFF ON YOUR SPECIAL TRIP IN STYLE

Would you like to start celebrating your special occasion in a world of style and comfort? Book the La Valette Special Occasions package and let the start of your trip set the rhythm for many magical moments.

Malta International Airport plc Luqa LQA 4000, Malta. Tel: (+356) 2369 6292/6016 Freephone: 8007 6666 Email: info@lavaletteclub.com

www.lavaletteclub.com


[V] #32  

Kick start the season with bold statements emerging from this blossoming spring.

[V] #32  

Kick start the season with bold statements emerging from this blossoming spring.

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