A Vacation Insiders Guide to Marche, Italy

A Vacation Insiders Guide

Le Marche, Italy

MEET YOUR HOSTS BOB & IAN...

Welcome, we are Bob and Ian. We have been discovering Marche for over 12 years, and we love this laid-back and still largely undiscovered part of central Italy, with its magnificent beaches, dramatic mountains and restorative countryside.

THEIR STORY After years debating how to get out of our high stress London office jobs, we spent a holiday here and found our dream location. In just one week we discovered a derelict farmhouse, took one look at the views, and knew we had to have it. Living on a building site with no power or heating, we worked with our builder and architect so that each day we saw our goal move a step, sometimes just a tiny one, closer.

Experience in managing multi-million pound projects and teams of hundreds of people was helpful, though this was the biggest challenge we had ever faced. The money was ours and the Italian ego is a precious thing.

Our language skills developed quickly, though we had to keep reminding ourselves that building site vocabulary is not always appropriate in other settings!

THEIR HOME The result was far more than we’d hoped for, and our growing army of regular guests bear witness to the builders' craftsmanship, and those spectacular views.

Since our apartments are self-catering, we still have free time to keep on exploring this magnificent region, and although we have been living here for more than a decade, there are still countless mountains unclimbed, beaches undiscovered and restaurant menus unsampled. We hope that this guide will give you an insight into some of our favourites from the many that we have discovered so far. And whether you are a couple seeking an intimate get away or a family in search of a great holiday we look forward to welcoming you and helping you discover your own Marche.

THE REAL MARCHE, ITALY...

Marche is every bit as beautiful as its central Italian neighbours, Tuscany and Umbria, but without the tourist crowds and price tag. In this hidden gem of a holiday destination, you won’t find foreigners' menus in English, Starbucks, or your neighbours from home. What you will find is local food in locals’ restaurants, a real espresso for just a euro, and warm, welcoming people who genuinely want to share this special region with you.

You'll see the genuine kindness of people instantly: If you haven’t pre-weighed your supermarket produce, the person behind you at the till won’t tut. More likely they will take you to the scales and patiently show you what to do. If you stop in a village for a coffee but stumble across a pottery and ask if there’s a bar in town the potter answers, “It’s closed today, but I’ll make you a coffee.” If you are looking for an outof-the-way restaurant, ask a stranger; it is likely they will lead or even drive you there.

Maybe this friendly disposition is born of seeing the beautiful rolling hills every day, having a great range of beaches from classic Lidos like Porto San Giorgio to the hidden rocky coves along the magnificent Conero Peninsular, or from having the majestic Sibillini Mountains within sight.

“Rolling hills... a great range of beaches... hidden rocky coves... the majestic Sibillini Mountains... all of Italy, in one region”

Lesser-known cities like Ascoli Piceno, sculpted from glistening travertine marble; Fermo with its wonderful piazza and fascinating Roman cisterns; or world heritage site Urbino, birthplace of Raffaello and home to the magnificent Ducal Palace of Federico da Montefeltro, are fascinating to visit with few of the tourist crowds.

The locals call Marche “all of Italy in one region,” and that variety is reflected in the range of food, from fresh seafood right on the beach to simple farm restaurants with amazing views, stylish palazzos in Renaissance villages, to hearty but delicately flavored mountain produce. All enjoyed with world class wines like Verdicchio or Rosso Conero­—and all surprisingly inexpensive.

From the breath-taking and diverse surrounding landscapes, to lively streets teeming with welcoming locals, to fine Italian dining, Marche offers an authentic taste of Italian culture without the nuisance of tourist traps. And there's never a dull moment. Throughout the year and particularly in the summer there is a constant stream of festivals, many celebrating crops and harvests, local food and wines— most feature music, entertainment, and heraldic traditions.

We suspect that living in Marche has made us nicer people. Come and discover what beneficial effects it may have on you.

OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS...

One of the questions we get asked the most is 'can you recommend a good restaurant?'

Well there are so many that we (and our guests) love that it's hard to identify just one! So we have chosen five to give you a sense of the range of style and quality. But please ask us for our full list; it's the result of more than a decade of research!

1

Belvedere...

T: 0734.9598014

If you don’t have a long Sunday afternoon to while away, find one. Then spend it at Belvedere Agriturismo where Enrico and his family will serve you endless plates of mouth-watering homemade antipasti, pastas, and a main course or two. There’s no English spoken but don’t worry, there’s no menu! And all for the price of a beer and a sandwich in a London pub!

2

Le Logge...

T: 0733.506788

The elegant setting of Le Logge in an ancient palace contrasts charmingly with the friendly service in this stylish restaurant. Try the tasting menus, a succession of exquisite small dishes made with the fresh ingredients of the day. If you can’t decide on a dessert, try the trìs, substantial bite-sized servings of three scrumptious specialities.

3

L’Enoteca Bar e Vino...

4 5

T: 348.9035.257

If you are visiting the Thursday evening antiques market in Fermo, the only place to eat is the Enoteca. Book a table on the terrazza overlooking the square and feast on gourmet local delicacies each paired with local wines. Despite the subtlety of the food, you certainly won’t leave hungry.

Da Silvio...

T: 071.7360.507

In spring or autumn, drive the narrow winding road to Da Silvio. In summer you must park in a field at the top, but the walk down and climb up are absolutely worth it: magical views over the sea from this open-walled, timber-roofed eatery. The atmosphere is casual & relaxed, with superb freshly caught seafood. But it gets better... they have a shuttle bus down and, crucially, back up the hill!

Il Picciolo di Rame...

T: 348.3316.588

When we first arrived at Vestignano, an ancient hamlet nestling in the foothills of the Sibillini mountains, we were transported back 600 years to the old olive press which houses Il Picciolo di Rame. Learn about the history and provenance of each traditional course as the plates, literally, pile up in front of you.

This twelve course feast is an authentic journey through Le Marche’s culinary history.

5 EXPERIENCES YOU CANNOT MISS...

1

La Torre Boat Trip...

2

Festivals - Live Like a Local...

3

The Conero...

4

Castelluccio...

5

Wine Tasting...

The most relaxing way to enjoy the beautiful Conero coast is a launch from La Torre restaurant in Numana. As the boat passes secret caves, coves and Napoleonic defences, you can stretch out in the sun, sip Prosecco, and watch the views unfold. Go for a swim in a secluded bay while the skipper prepares a four-course lunch or dinner. Can you think of a better way to experience one of the loveliest stretches of Italy’s Adriatic?

Every night during the long season offers a different festival in a local town. Pay two denari for a flagon of mead and travel back to the 16th century at the Sarnano Medieval festival; see 18th-century craftsmen and meet costumed gentry in Mogliano’s 1744 celebration; or enjoy jousting in Servigliano. Forget Disney, this is entertainment for the locals. Visitors are welcomed enthusiastically with great street food and local wines.

Rising 500m from the sea, the Conero National Park’s micro-climate is perfect for the production of the famous Rosso Conero wines, and vineyards in the area proudly offer tastings. The pretty little towns of Numana and Sirolo rival Positano or Portofino. Extensive pine woods have great walking and cycling trails as well as flora found nowhere else on earth. And a 10-minute trek down to Mezzavalle ends on a pristine beach.

The oft snow-capped Sibillini Mountains form the backdrop to Marche.

At 1,300 meters, Umbria’s Piano Grande cheekily pokes into Marche’s territory. Rising from the plateau the tiny village of Castelluccio looks eerie from its winding approach. On arrival you are rewarded with wild and rare spring flowers and lakes of blue lentils. Book a table outside Taverna di Castelluccio and sample the famed lentils, cheese, truffles, and herbs.

Italy has scores of grape varieties, and in Marche you'll discover some found only locally, like Pecorino or Lacrima di Moro d’Alba. World-class vineyards like Umani-Ronchi produce world-class wines at very affordable prices. We love to take friends to nearby Murola, sample the wines, snack and bask in the sunshine and beautiful views of the Macerata Hills. Only here is the Ribona grape grown for its light, crisp whites.

A PLACE EVEN THE LOCALS DON'T KNOW...

Uncovering the gems...

One of our greatest pleasures is to explore Marche and find unusual and interesting places to visit. Spots that you won't find in any guide book and which show you a side of life that is secret and surprising.

Every week in the summer, and often throughout the year, we head to the beautiful Conero peninsular.

We recently discovered Passetto, just south of Ancona, where old fishermen's caves have been converted into boat houses and seaside hideaways for local families.

There is an Art Deco lift down to this Ancona city beach which has a simple restaurant built on stilts over the water. This led us to hear about much more remote caves in the bays south of Ancona...

Last year we discovered the path to the rocks where scores of fishermen’s caves are hewn into the cliff. Most are abandoned though some have been reclaimed by boating aficionados. Scramble along the shore and chat with the locals as they clean their mussel catch ready for lunch. Watch the ragazzi dive from the rocks and soak up the sun knowing that there won't be another tourist in sight! Oh and the water in the pools is crystal clear and wonderful for swimming. Another path leads back up to Il Baffo, a stylish and relaxed family restaurant with great food and superb views over our new discovery. If you want real Italy that even most locals have never heard of, try the Scalaccia walk - you won't be disappointed, but make sure you ask us for directions – it took us 10 years to find it!

Tripadvisor Quote... "...the exceptional welcome of Bob and Ian who have found that special balance—sharing this amazing environment as well as their expertise about the region with their visitors, yet taking their cue from the guests and allowing them to engage and explore (or not) at their leisure. Bob and Ian have created a very special oasis at Casal dei Fichi. They have the gift of instantly making their guests feel like old friends who soon feel like they too belong to this special corner of the world." Michael K. Montreal, Canada. Oct ’14 & Jun '15

BOB & IAN'S EXTRA TOUCHES...

Most people that choose to stay in a self catered holiday rental over a hotel do so because they want to experience something a little different. Sometimes it's for more space and freedom.

Sometimes it's the charm and character of the home. Sometimes it's the charm and character of the owners. In Bob and Ian's case it's all the above, and a few extra touches...

Pizza Party...

Each week we host our complimentary weekly pizza party using the original brick oven in the garden. With our home made dough, sauce and lots of fresh ingredients, everyone gets a chance to make their own pizza from scratch and bake it in the oven. Always fun, the party brings all of our guests together and lasting friendships are often forged on a Monday evening; Tuesday morning comes late but brings a wonderful convivial atmosphere.

Garden Produce...

Everything grows so easily in Italy so we like to share this with you.

Help yourself to fresh produce from our garden each day to make that meal just a little more special! Vegetables are ready for you in the veg patch, plus fruit from the orchard and fresh herbs to add flavour. Fancy free range eggs each day from our chickens? - it’s all waiting for you.

Our Philosophy...

We live on site and are always willing to give advice on restaurants, vineyards, beaches, culture, etc. Yet we respect your privacy, choosing to be available but not intrusive. We consider your apartment to be your home. We don’t believe in security deposits, supplements or restricting rules. We hope that you will support our environmental efforts... we make it as easy as possible for you to have an ecofriendly holiday, without compromising your comfort and luxury.

Bob & Ian's WHERE TO STAY...

Casal dei Fichi...

Casal dei Fichi offers six unique and stylish apartments where you will find everything that you need for a relaxing holiday.

Your apartment has been prepared to the last detail so that you don’t have to think about anything except enjoying your stay.

Or not...

If we can’t accommodate you, or you are looking for something else, we will be happy to suggest alternatives, as we work closely with other accommodation owners at Marche Owners Direct. All the properties are run by the owners and each offers a unique service.

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