issue #3 cover by Andrea Quarantotto 04.
Arcade Blues by Andrea Quarantotto
152. Mandy by Spencer Wohlrab 164. Through My Hair by Eleonora Giammello 182. Incomprehensum by Erica Fava 212. Bailee by Spencer Wohlrab 228. Ophelia by Elisabetta Porcinai 252. Non Humans by Ilaria Ciappina 260. Insight: Ash Kingston, Yougo Jeberg, Sigfrid Bobrek and Ryan Cavanagh, Josh Beech and Jon Malvin K by Sara Scialpi and Francesca Rinaldi 296. You Should Know: Karley Sciortino by Ramona Tabita
299. . by CU
Thanks to Fiori Luisa di Barbara e Silvia, Societa Agricola Il Gherbino, Paolo Abbati, Settemetri Quadrati and Manuela Spiga.
editor in chief
Maria De Los Angeles Monari
Sara Scialpi and Elisabetta Porcinai
Sara Scialpi, Francesca Rinaldi, CU, Ramona Tabita and Ilaria Ciappina
Andrea Quarantotto, Spencer Wohlrab, Eleonora Giammello, Erica Fava and Elisabetta Porcinai
ÂŠ 2011 upandcomingstyle. firstname.lastname@example.org
Arcade Blues PHOTOGRAPHY
MARIA DE LOS ANGELES MONARI Make-Up Model
Laura Gerhard benedetta zanotti
Jacket H&M Underwear Intimissimi Necklace Vintage Shoes Isabella Zocchi
Shirt Terranova, top Chacarel, short Tally Weijl collant Tezenis and shoes Converse All Stars
T-Shirt All Inclusive Apparel and short Tally Weij
Top Intimissimi, gilet Vintage and collant Calzedonia
Top Cacharel, short Tally Weij and collant Calzedonia
Top Max&Co. and short H&M
ED RUSCHA IS THE V
You love that which
which you can lose
Gilet Veronique Branquinho, pants Tezenis and sunglasses Sabre
T-Shirt All Inclusive Apparel, short Tally Weij, collant Calzedonia, sunglasses Sabre and shoes All Stars
White long sleeve button up H&M
Cheap Monday cutoff shorts with black bandeau top American Apparel
Black blazer H&M
Victoriaâ€™s Secret leopard print lace bra paired with black high waisted panties American Apparel
through my hair
photographer&stylist ELEONORA GIAMMELLO make-up&hair DAVID ZACHAR BELLINI models: ALICE DI DONFRANCESCO FABRIZIO DALLARI LUDOVICA COSTANZA DRUSI GRETA SCARDELLATO GUGLIELMO CASTELLI DAVID ZACHAR BELLINI
styling inVITRO make-up and hair Daniele Mitra model Martina Santini @ZOE
Cotton skinny pants ZARA TRF. Viscose jersey T-shirt ANGELA RAGO. Calf leather maxi clutch, detail in crocodile MARCO AURELIO TUCCILLO. Calf leather boots, detail in crocodile inVITRO.
Asymmetric jacket in calf lined in hand dyed cotton gauze ANGELA RAGO. Petite robe noir in viscose VERSACE. Calf leather boots, detail in crocodile inVITRO. Steel necklace MORELLATO.
Hand dyed cotton T-shirt with floral details in viscose jersey inVITRO. Silver leggins in spreaded jersey BERSHKA. Seel and calf leather belts MARCO AURELIO TUCCILLO. Boots UGG.
Silk gauze evening dress, detail in crocodile inVITRO. Calf leather maxi handbag, detail in crocodile MARCO AURELIO TUCCILLO. Iron and leather calf collar dog inVITRO.
Hand dyed cotton t-shirt ANGELA RAGO. Viscose jersey cardigan inVITRO. Calf leather maxi handbag, detail in crocodile MARCO AURELIO TUCCILLO. Viscose jersey asymmetric pants inVITRO. Open toe shoes CASADEI.
Viscose jersey maxi T-shirt ANGELA RAGO. Cotton blazer ZARA Woman. Steel necklace MORELLATO.
Handmade cotton T-shirt ANGELA RAGO. Cotton jersey skirt H&M. Steel and calf leather belts MARCO AURELIO TUCCILLO.
Silk jersey dress LANVIN. Calf leather cardigan ANGELA RAGO. Calf leather tulip skirt inVITRO. Ankle gaiter boots inVITRO.
Asymmetric viscose jersey dress inVITRO. Leather calf armband and belt MARCO AURELIO TUCCILLO.
K-Way SISLEY Spreaded leggins BERSHKA Boots UGG.
Bailee photography. Spencer Wohlrab Styling. Alison Isbel Model. Bailee MyKell Hair and Make-up. Alison Isbel
Sequin lgeggings Topshop, leather necklace Skingraft, spike and pyramid stud cuffs Trash and Vaudeville
Cutoff T-shirt Stylistâ€™s own, dress Vintage, d ring chain belt Trash and Vaudeville
Blouse Vintage, blazer Dolce & Gabbana, monkey fur coat Vintage, leather shorts Rag & Bone and boots Vintage
Fishnet top Tripp NYC and tights American Apparel
Tights American Apparel, necklace Stylistâ€™s own and Boots Vintage
Biker jacket Vintage Wilson’s Leather, cutoff shorts Vintage Levi’s 501, boots Jil Sander and rings Stylist’s own
Top Chanel and rings Stylistâ€™s own
Oph el ia Photography .
Elisabetta Porcinai Styling .
Maria De los Angeles Monari
Make Up & Hair .
Fabrizio Muzzi 228
OPH: And I, of ladies most deject and wretched, That suckâ€™d the honey of his music vows, Now see that noble and most sovereign reason, Like sweet bells jangled, out of tune and harsh; That unmatchâ€™d form and feature of blown youth Blasted with ecstasy: O, woe is me, To have seen what I have seen, see what I see!
QUEEN: There is a willow grows aslant a brook, That shows his hoar leaves in the glassy stream; Therewith fantastic garlands did she make Of crow-flowers, nettles, daisies, and long purples That liberal shepherds give a grosser name, But our cold maids do dead menâ€™s fingers call them:
There, on the pendent boughs her coronet weeds Clambering to hang, an envious sliver broke; When down her weedy trophies and herself Fell in the weeping brook.
Her clothes spread wide; And, mermaid-like, awhile they bore her up:
As one incapable of her own distress, Or like a creature native and indued Unto that element: 249
But long it could not be Till that her garments, heavy with their drink, Pullâ€™d the poor wretch from her melodious lay To muddy death. 250
NoN huManS Illustrations & Designs ILARIA CIAPPINA
Right: 1. Woolen scarf, suede overcoat, jersey tights and knitted woolen shoes. 2. Handmade feathers dress, jersey tights and woolen shoes. 252
Left: Oversize woolen scarf, suede overcoat, jersey jumper and tights, and knitted woolen shoes. Left: Furjacket and feathers dress. 254
Left: Suede jacket and skirt, jersey tights and knitted woolen shoes. Right: Fur hooded overcoat and suede dress. 255
Left: Fur hooded overcoat and suede dress. Right: Suede and fur jacket and skirt, jersey tights.
Right: Fur hooded overcoat and suede dress, jersey tights, knitted woolen shoes. 259
Ash Kingston His pictures reconcile the melancholic purity of the livid skies of Wales and the strenght of the sparkling beauty of youth. Ash Kingston is only sixteen but his works could be easily confused with some of the finest urban-styled haute couture editorials: his up-and-coming success is inevitable (proof are the 1,500+ votes that one of his pictures got on PhotoVogue.it). The photographer Age: 16 years old Born: in London Raised: in Wales ‘Wishes he was: in New York, London, Milan or Paris! In a word: “exciting” Typical day: college in the morning, come home, edit pictures, eat, get a bath, go to sleep Equipment: Canon 5d Mk II with a 50mm 1.4 USM and a Panasonic Gf1 Inspired by: Terry Richardson Why photography: it takes my mind off of things and I really love it because I can inspire myself Loves: eating chinese food and listening to music with my family Hates: going to college Dreams to: become a world known fashion photographer Listens to: The xx, Skrillex, MGMT, Mark Ronson, Miike Snow, The Strokes, The Drums, David Guetta, Kanye West and that kinda stuff Favourite model/s: Yuri Pleskun and Daphne Groeneveld Favourite garment: my black suede creepers When he’s bored: I sit in bed listening to music and thinking of concept for photographs Motto: if I push myself I will get where I want to be! 261
In this special number of Insight, I had the chance to see in absolute exclusive some shots from his new photo-set, which title is
Why this title? (Lost Nature) I chose it with the help of Harry (the model). The reason we used this is because we both think people are losing touch with out surroundings and with the countryside in general. Everyone, me included, like I said before, wants to move to the city, that’s the idea. What’s your relationship with nature? I don’t find it difficult to feel nature in the city I live in, since it’s very small. There is a lot of nature, like trees and the lake as well, but it just doesn’t excite me like a metropolis does. How do you choose the places you want to go shooting? It’s not casual at all. When walking I usually spot places I’d like to shoot, so I take pictures of them, mark down where they are and then go back there on shooting days to take pictures with models as well. How do you pick your models? The model who worked with me here is my good friend Harry Daniels. Yeah, at the moment I’m just using friends and goodlooking people I know, I’d really want to start using other people though, like proper models! How do you pick your models? I usually let the models wear their own clothes, so they can feel a little more comfortable. In some ways, this helps them to express their personalities better. I also try to get clothes which can fit in better with the theme. For example, I love when I have matching colours! What do you do the day before a shooting? I just make sure that my batteries are charged and that I have enough space on my memory card, I then write down some more ideas to expand on. Back at home, how do you usually edit your pictures? I use Photoshop CS4, I normally just add curves to adjust them, after retouching them a bit, which takes a majority of the time. That’s about it, really. How much experimenting is important in what you do? Experimenting is a big part of me. It helps me to find out new things and then I learn from that, it’s like one big cycle. See more of his works on http://www.flickr.com/photos/ashkingston/ on http://www.facebook.com/ashkingstonphoto
interview by Sara Scialpi 273
Yougo Jeberg It didn’t take me too long to fall in love with the libertine aura of Yougo Jeberg’s talent. He could be described as a man of few words whose works, style and wasted charm speak for him and themselves. By looking at your pictures, you seem this cool stylish lad partying all day long, stopping just to watch the sun rise. So dandy and so lost in an enchanted, unreachable world. But who’s really Yougo Jeberg? I don’t think that the world I live in is unreachable, I’m just taking pictures, I always carry a camera with me. It can be any kind of camera as long as I’m keeping a trace of my close ones and of people I meet. At the moment I’m covering London fashion weeks for That magazine. My upcoming projects are Milan and Paris fashion weeks before leaving for NYC in october.
Your pictures celebrates youth, life, fashion. La belle vie, right? Do you think that concentrating on the present can help to ideally “overcome death”? Is your look at life nonchalant or melancholic? It’s not melancholic as I don’t carry emotions towards this kind of life, it’s more of a nonchalant vision, empty of any feeling. It’s the best way to avoid any suffering, isn’t it? Without love we don’t suffer, it’s quite logical, so when I name my series “overcome death” it means I’m choosing to live WITH death instead of trying to conquer it, it’s more like a cohabitation. What’s your typical day like? Breathe. 275
Is there one picture, among all of those you have shot until now, you’re really fond of, a picture that really means something to you? For now there is no picture I like, I don’t like to watch what I shot in the past, I just focus on shooting more, and if there may be one I’ll keep it for me. That kind of pictures is not for internet, it only interests me. Do you plan shootings or just take out your camera whenever you feel like doing it? Does it feel awkward or do you perceive that as a totally natural move? I always carry a camera with me so oddly, without thinking, when there is something I like, I shoot it. Sometimes I drive around, find a location that I like on the road and I stop,wondering if it could be the background for a good picture, for example I do this a lot for the brand SCHMOOVE, which I shoot for. I’m on good terms with the designer and I know what kind of photos he’s looking for, without having to ask him. It happens that I shoot things in a more spontaneous way but it’s random anyway. Would you rather say that “your life is art, without the help of photography” or maybe that “art is your life, and it is the only thing that makes it all look beautiful”? Anyone can take those pictures, they represent pain and joy to me, and pain and joy are life, not just MY life as you said in the question, that’s just how it goes for everyone. What words come up to your mind when thinking of the future? “Amy Winehouse gig.”
You’re great friends with Theo Gosselin, another great artist. Do you influence each other in your photography style, experimenting things, places, colours together, or are you two Ask him. You met Carl Barât when working for THAT magazine. How did the meeting go and what did he say to you? I went backstage at the Bus Palladium with my friend François Crimon, who was playing for the opening act and so I could say “Hi” to Carl, but then my friend touched his chest thinking it was someone else, and the whole room went awkward. Then Carl looked at my friend and said “SUPER”, that is the only interaction I had with him apart from taking a picture of him. One last question. How and when your experience with THAT magazine began? Simply: the editor was the only one interested in my pictures at the time I started to work for the magazine. …And we know for sure that now this is far from reality. Get more of Yougo’s work here: http://yougodiary.blogspot.com/ & http://www.flickr.com/photos/48869489@N05/ http://www.facebook.com/Schmooveofficial http://www.facebook.com/thatmag
interview by Sara Scialpi 277
Sigfrid Bobrek and Ryan Cavanagh Ryan Cavanagh is a former jazz student who decided to drop school to become a very very fresh house music producer. Sigfrid “Sigu” Bobrek directs AUTOBRENNT, the media consulting company that manages his image. In addition to this, he organizes amazing rooftop parties on NYC skyscrapers. Both of them had really interesting things to say about their job.
Sigu, AUTOBRENNT seems to suggest a cutting-edge attitude that embraces the creative life experience in its entirety. Is there a fulcrum, a point of balance? Where do you place it? We are just trying to do what we love, and give the people an experience that is unique and memorable throughout our site and events. More of a socializing experience if you will… we welcome the artists, their creativity, and like to think we understand their vision of what they would like to communicate to their audience. If you would call that cutting-edge, we will take that as a compliment. How can you tell if a starting up trend has good potential to develope and spread? I think more than starting a trend is just to do what you like with love, if you do that you know people will like it and the potential develops as the word spreads. For example I don’t post a podcast I don’t love, I don’t book and artist I don’t love and people really appreciate that. I think when we do what we love, it always has potential to become something more than a trend. I’m hesitant to call it a trend though, as trends usually come and go. I want the AUTOBRENNT brand and what is goes after to be a constant, not be something people say comes and goes. The idea is to have followers always interested and wanting more… we strive to bring the new and the next, and push people’s boundaries — both on the website with the new 279
talent we selectively represent as well as with our events. We want to make them step outside their comfort zone and experience new sounds with our podcast series that is tailored to the AUTOBRENNT followers, we want to give new views on what a party can be and open their minds to a different way to view a party. If we go after a new sound, it’s not because it’s a trend, it’s because it sounds right. Right for the moment at hand, not just a passing trend. Do you have any aesthetic landmark? Who are your models? Not sure if I have a role model, per se, but I have both a deep respect and admiration for Ghostly International. This is a label I am happy to say consists of close friends. I admire the people that run the company as well as the artists that work with them. They have set themselves apart from many people in this industry, and I appreciate that. What kind of studies did you do? I went to school for Multimedia Arts with an emphasized study in web design. Managing a wide range of events like yours is a job that requires a special kind of acuity. What is your approach and what kind of analysis do you accomplish? What is the role of social networks in this process? Our approach has been to try to find new talent to showcase in both our events and podcast series. It takes a lot to run a website where you always have people waiting to see what is next, as well as to also to know what followers want to listen to or read. On the other hand, when we are doing our events (especially now, considering our recent expansion into Chicago and few other cities to follow) we need to find the right place that goes with our image. With these events it is a gamble. Sometimes you will have a full house or just few people, sometimes the booking doesn’t even matter. If you are branching out into areas of people who are unaware of this music sub-culture, you really are starting from scratch and need to provide the talent, and wait for the word to circulate. It’s not a 1, 2, 3 magic formula, but, if you devote the right amount of time to it, you can reach an audience that is untapped, and welcomes the newness that AUTOBRENNT strives to bring to people. Social networks are the key players in promotions nowadays, without them we would not be able to reach the network that we do, nor enjoy the support that we thrive on. Our supporters and followers of the website have been the most amazing part of this whole AUTOBRENNT experience. They have pushed us to continue to push boundaries with the new sounds we go after. A thank you to the supporters would be stating the obvious. I always try to find new talent and new sound, my approach has always been to find new venues like boutique hotels with penthouses, pools and Rooftop, we try to offer and experience more just than a simple event. We try to take people from the nightclubs and bars and present them with a beautiful venue, good drinks, food and the best music possible. Social networks are very important nowadays, no matter how many followers you have on you mailing list you can always push more throughout the social networks, luckily, I now have an online promotion person that manages most of that and also have a content manager that helps streamline all online promotions. One of your strengths is the focus on the audio quality of the events you organize. How do you act to ensure everything is perfect? As much as we would like to have a perfect event with an amazing sound it will rarely be flawless. It’s how you troubleshoot those things and shield it from affecting peoples experiences that sets us apart. If your #1 priority is to make the DJ and crowd happy, simultaneously, and have the crowd unaware of what is happening behind the scenes, we consider that a success. In addition, I think sometimes you 280
have to sacrifice beauty for sound. What I mean by that is that most of the venues where we like to have our events are great locations and beautiful but they don’t have the best sound system. We try to go and check the venue before our event to see how it works we try to become friends with the staff son we call work better together. What is unique about AUTOBRENNT and the way we run our events, is we make ourselves at the forefront of each event — make ourselves available to the supporters. Welcome feedback, hear first-hand what they like (and of course, dislike) and we take that all to heart. Perhaps there are some who don’t quite understand the concept, but if you are there to help shed light on what each event is supposed to be about, they welcome the insight. We work with the crowd, without sacrificing the vision of AUTOBRENNT.
What do you think was the most successful event you ever organized? Tell me about it. I think most successful events we did were the series of penthouse events where we had a Ghostly Showcase, DFA Showcase, Buddies and Masquarade event. All these events were really special as we came out with the idea of presenting a daytime event on a sunday for a low cover fee, until other promotional companies copy our ideas… I think we have done a few events that have been quite amazing: our Penthouse series includes Ghostly international showcase, DFA records showcase and Wolf + lamb first record release. All events have success in their own way, whether it’s an intimate venue with a kick-ass loyal crowd, or a big venue with great sound- at the end of every event we aim to look at the pro’s, but acknowledge what could be improved upon. What does it mean to be promoters of a lifestyle? Seems to me that this implies a genuine interest in the concept of subculture. AUTOBRENNT is a believer that when you have a strong vision of something you want to share that with your supporters and followers. AUTOBRENNT promotes a 281
lifestyle of music shared with a unique vision of artistic understanding within what the music offers. We work to give that to the people. The subculture term can be defined and interpreted as one pleases, we try not to define something that encompasses such a vast number of definitions. How did you meet Ryan Cavanagh? Was he the one to refer to you, or did you scout him? We met on a dating site naturally, it was love at first sight [laughs]. We actually meet around 4 years ago, when I had a rooftop event and he came a played some records
I had a chat with him too. Hi Slow Hands. Why did you choose this name? Do you know the song by Interpol? I chose the name as sort of last minute thing before going on a tour about 6 years ago. I didn’t have a name at the time, and I needed one the week before we left for them to promote with. Eric Clapton was my hero growing up, and his nickname was Slowhand, so I modified a bit and that is what i came up with. I know of the song by Interpol, but I can’t say that I actually know the song. Though I do like the band. What are your earliest musical memories? Peter Gabriel, I don’t recollect ever existing without knowing all the words to the So album. My mom went through multiple copies of that vinyl. I don’t actually remember this, but my parents tell me that my first musical obsession was with David Bowie. They would play his music and put me in a Johnny Jump Up and I would bounce around screaming and laughing until I passed out, ha. How was your first contact with house music? I would like to say that I went to a rave as a teenager that blew my mind, but I didn’t… I grew up in this little town in Vermont called Manchester. It was/is an outlet town, and is right below Stratton Mountain (where Jake Burton invented snowboarding!). So, due to autumn foliage and skiing, and shopping it was pretty much a constant tourist mecca while i was growing up. This, combined with a lot of hippy culture that drifted/ escaped to Vermont’s solitude after the 60s forgot about them led to a lot of nice little local stores thrown in the mix. One of these was a place called Northshire Bookstore, which is this amazing book/music store that carries all kinds of stuff. I spent all the money I earned as a teenager in their music department. I would buy CDs just based on their cover, or just because I didn’t know what it was. One of these happened to be Paul Oakenfold’s NYC Global Underground, it didn’t make sense at the time, but it did a few years later when I moved to Philly and was exposed to Josh Wink, and all the Philly house guys. Can you tell me about the transition from jazz studies to DJing? Well, it was pretty sudden. I did poorly in high school, and went to college thinking I could sort of get by in the same manner, but I ended up getting pegged with this guitar teacher who made me cry (not even kidding) in my second lesson. He instilled such a fear in me, that I spent the entire year in college doing nothing but practicing guitar, like, 6 hours a day in a small practice room. When the first year was over, I sold all my guitars, and didn’t pick one up again for 3 years. I got turntables, bought a Mac, and Logic (4.2 Gold version… just to give you a time frame) and started going to 611 on South Street in Philly and buying all the records I could with the money I earned as a bartender. I don’t remember my first DJ gig, I wish i did, but I probably blocked it out of my mind for a reason… 282
What do you think is your place in the house avant-garde scene? What are your feelings towards the definitions the critics use to give to your music? Wow, good question. I don’t know what my place is really, I am still trying to figure that out. I feel slightly disconnected from it in some ways, but I think I do that to myself (I am not very good at being social when I should be). When I made ‘Fast Tongue’, it was inspired by working in my group as Worst Friends, and we had just made ‘Billiards With A Midget’, this was over 2 years ago. Everyone at the time was making 120-125 bpm house tunes, and the over saturated minimal music that was being made was being replaced by deep house, which would eventually be over saturated as well (this summer is proving to be disco and slow house’s dive into that same spiral, the nature of the beast really). Other people at the time were making slower house, we were by no means the first people to touch upon this style. But Gadi and Zev deciding to put this out into a market that wasn’t exposed to it was pretty risky. It got pegged as ‘make out disco’ by RA, and that is how I have been defined since. It was a great descriptor for the track, but certainly doesn’t define me or my overall music.
Ultimately, it’s human nature to have to try and categorize things, and this is fine. It’s also insanely cliche for artists to say that they “don’t want to be categorized”, or “fit into a genre”, yet very few of them actually do anything different, so I don’t know what they expect. So yeah, I was disco, now I am indy house, tomorrow i will be scouse… who knows. I am happy musically, and what critics want to call my music is entirely up to them. I love writing and hold writers in very high regard, they have a job to do, and I respect that. 283
What do you think is your place in the house avant-garde scene? What are your feelings Wow, good question. I don’t know what my place is really, I am still trying to figure that out. I feel slightly disconnected from it in some ways, but I think I do that to myself (I am not very good at being social when I should be). When I made ‘Fast Tongue’, it was inspired by working in my group as Worst Friends, and we had just made ‘Billiards With A Midget’, this was over 2 years ago. Everyone at the time was making 120-125 bpm house tunes, and the over saturated minimal music that was being made was being replaced by deep house, which would eventually be over saturated as well (this summer is proving to be disco and slow house’s dive into that same spiral, the nature of the beast really). Other people at the time were making slower house, we were by no means the first people to touch upon this style. But Gadi and Zev deciding to put this out into a market that wasn’t exposed to it was pretty risky. It got pegged as ‘make out disco’ by RA, and that is how I have been defined since. It was a great descriptor for the track, but certainly doesn’t define me or my overall music. Ultimately, it’s human nature to have to try and categorize things, and this is fine. It’s also insanely cliche for artists to say that they “don’t want to be categorized”, or “fit into a genre”, yet very few of them actually do anything different, so I don’t know what they expect. So yeah, I was disco, now I am indy house, tomorrow i will be scouse… who knows. I am happy musically, and what critics want to call my music is entirely up to them. I love writing and hold writers in very high regard, they have a job to do, and I respect that. What is your relationship with the W + L family? To what extent do you feel like being the We are just that, a family. We travel together, we fight, we disagree, we love, we hang, we eat, but most importantly, we stand by one another through the thick and the thin of this chaotic lifestyle. I am proud to be the heir I suppose… I think it’s one of the few labels in this scene that doesn’t have a sound, so I never feel obligated to make something that sounds the same as the last thing that came out on the label. What are the technical tools you use to produce? Logic, piano, soft synths, microphones, voice, guitar. I would love to have more hardware, but I would probably never use it. The sounds you can get out of a guitar are limitless as well… I have played for 14 years, and I haven’t even scratched the surface. Not to mention what you can do with a mic or your voice. What is, according to you, the ideal situation for a live set? Any place where the people are responsive to more in the music than just a kick drum. What are your favorite producers? Will you mention some Italian names? Haha, Italian producers, wow! Well, obviously Moroder and Baldelli are huge influences, can I say Soccio? (even though he is technically Canadian). The Clockwork boys are doing great work, and Tale Of Us are representing Italy really well. Right now, at this very moment in time, I would say my two favorite producers are Mocky and Chilly Gonzales. What are your upcoming projects? Just working hard on the live set. I have only done it a few times, and it’s changed so dramatically. I want to start playing the guitar, and keys during the set, and do a lot of live looping. So those are my only future plans at the moment, and working on new 284
tunes. I have some remixes and original productions as Slow Hands, Worst Friends, and Male Madame coming out on Future Classic, RVNG, Permanent Vacation, Let’s Play House, and Rebirth.
Autobrennt deals with several other talented artists. Can you report five tunes we definitely should listen to? Oh boy… I don’t know if any of the one’s that come immediately to mind are even out yet! Let’s see (if you don’t know any of these, keep an eye out). Soho 808 – “Parts of You and I” Pillow Talk – “Soft” Matthew Dear (1/2 Buddies) – “You Put A Smell On Me (Photocall Remix)” MANDY (other 1/2 of Buddies) – “Body Language” Matt Tolfrey & Inxec – “Hollywood (Clovis Remix)” Photos are by Jai Lennard and Viktor Shekularatz.
interview by Francesca Rinaldi
Josh Beech His sharp, delicate features will surely look familiar to you. Or at least, you’ll recognize him on every single magazine cover once you’ve met his no-frills but extra-deep gaze. Some have described Josh Beech as a fallen angel, a creature fallen, I should probably add, from a planet where hardcore-looking guys have the finest faces and the sweetest voices. In fact, althought working for some serious stuff named Moschino, Vivienne Westwood, Valentino, G. Fujiwara, Mugler (I could carry on listing for hours), Josh’s favourite way to express harmony is not just exposing his body to crazy cameras flashes or pulling adorable faces, but growing his feelings into powerful tunes or (especially lately) soft, moving strains.
Music and fashion, melodies and beauty. Is your life balanced between the two of them, or do you give much more importance to just one of these? Yes, I would say that at the moment they are pretty balanced, although my heart is more in music, as that has always been my passion. I suppose that after releasing the album I will be dedicating even more time to music. We will be touring and all that. I really think that music is more relaxing, I mean that it soothes the soul… you know? What was your and your bandmates reaction when Burberry contacted you and how did the thing go? We were all really excited. It is a really prestigious British brand, with a lot of history as well. Of course, when they asked us to play for them we immediately said “YES!” and were all over the moon. Christopher Bailey actually asked personally for us to play for his acoustic YouTube page. 287
Could you name one song to describe your fashion lifestyle? Also, do you have some favourite fashion brand you worked for that you feel really close to your personal style? Well, I think All Saints brand is the closest to my personal style. I dunno if I could name a single, particular song to describe my fashion lifestyle…maybe a Local Natives track.
Tattoos, piercing, stretchers. You belong to a totally new generation of models who reflect some kind of “alternative” beauty, much more near to what are nowadays youngsters’ trends and tastes. Do you feel like changing that, fashion standards? Has anyone ever complained about your personal style (like, what are fashion people reactions when they see tattoos on the catwalk)? I don’t know if I’m actually changing something, but I feel pretty lucky to belong to this new generation! It’s so cool to belong to something new, fresh, different. No one has ever complained, well not to my face anyway. And I haven’t had stretchers in over a year now, I think I grew out of it and just got bored of them as I had had them for 7 years. Never going to stop getting tattooed though! When did you discover to have a passion for music? What’s your earliest memory about that? My earliest memory is definitely singing along to my mum’s Beatles and Paul Simon records. I was about 4. I dont think I have ever not loved music. It’s something that just runs in my family, we all have music on all the time. If you had to compare your first important shooting and the latest one you had, what would be your reflections? Do you feel the same way everytime or did you get used to it? And what to do you feel exactly? I guess I now am more comfortable around the camera comparing it to the first shoot I’ve ever done. Though, I still have that same anxiousness about, for example, what 288
the shoots are gonna be like and whether people from the team are going to be cool. Some shoots are more relaxed than others anyway, ’cause there are times when I shoot with my friends. That’s always a laugh and it looks so much more like fun than work. During fashion weeks, do you have a “music abstinence”, or would it be likely to find you playing your favourite song on an acoustic guitar? ‘Always have my acoustic, that’s why I started writing acoustic tracks, apposed to my heavy punk style of other writing. It gave me something to do while I was away or alone. Do you have any worst and best fashion/music experiences? No, it’s all good, I don’t actually think bad experiences exist really. Everything you do makes you grow as a person! So basically, what he’s saying is:
Reading his spontaneous, candid answers, you can only wish this boy to have a long and successful artistic career. Josh Beech’s (& the Johns) new album, entitled “Letters Written in The Sky”, will be out worldwide in February, 2012. His next show will be the DJ set planned for the 18th of November at the Touch the Wood Club, in Rome. Good luck, babe. Other places you can find Josh on: http://www.joshbeechmusic.com http://www.myspace.com/joshbeechmusic http://www.facebook.com/joshbeechmusic http://twitter.com/#!/iamjoshbeech
interview by Sara Scialpi 289
Jon Malvin K Jonnie è un fiume in piena, un fiume di parole e di idee. Non riesce a stare fermo. Agile e sfrontato (di una schiettezza che fa simpatia), se la cava benone tra le siepi alte e cattive di quel labirinto che è il fashion business. Senza contare poi fotografia e musica, campi fra i quali si diverte a spaziare e su cui ci tiene a dire la sua, con un grande sorriso luccicante stampato in faccia. Estremamente spontaneo e naturale (“mi piace dire quello che penso, e scrivere come parlo!”), non si sarà forse lasciato prendere troppo da quel “pAnk” che è poi alla base dei suoi attuali progetti? Gliel’ho chiesto, cercando di capire l’universo di immagini che coltiva ogni giorno nella sua testa
Chi è Jon Malvin K? Ok, innanzitutto ciao. Mi chiamo Jon Malvin A.B. In realtà qui dalle mie parti sono anche conosciuto come Ca’Bronxelle – K-BRNXL. Ma quello non era il tuo vecchio nome d’arte? Non ci capisco niente. (ride) Beh, bella domanda questa, credo se la facciano in molti. Allora, il quartiere dove vivo a Bassano del Grappa (una mini York di artisti, molto tranquilla, tranne quando ci sono grandi eventi come Infart) si chiama Ca’Baroncello, da lì mi è venuta l’idea per Ca’Bronxelle, ma in realtà il mio nome è John Malvin, come dicevo prima. Avrei un mare di altri nomi, ma per ora meglio non usarli! Vabbè dai, continuiamo. Allora, ho 22 anni che non dimostro ma che sento. Vivo a Bassano, ma non sono cresciuto qui. Ho vissuto tutta la mia infanzia a Bussolengo, in provincia di Verona, la città che ha dato spazio alla nascita della mia vena artistica. Comunque non posso dire che Bassano non mi abbia spronato. L’ambiente artistico in cui vivo e lavoro è molto stimolante, e parlo in generale. Qui ci sono spesso mostre, feste, fiere, concerti. Solitamente ci si diverte parecchio. 291
Quindi la tua avventura con il mondo della moda è iniziata a Verona, giusto? In che modo? Sono entrato nel mondo della moda per caso… o forse no. Al momento della decisione riguardo quale istituto superiore scegliere io decisi di frequentare il liceo artistico, prendendo un corso sperimentale per architettura, design del prodotto e moda. Decisi di iscrivermi al corso di moda, non perché mi ci sentissi già portato, ma perché avevo fatto varie valutazioni su quale corso mi avrebbe assicurato meno compiti da fare per casa! Yeah, svelato il segreto. E da lì poi sono arrivato qua. Mi ritengo ancora un novellino, ma inizio già a credere nelle mie potenzialità. Com’è giusto che sia. E sulle origini di WHY PANK che mi dici? Ecco, ho dato vita a WHY PANK in un pomeriggio di noia. Ho pensato: “Cavolo, il web è pieno di marchi, abbigliamento, accessori molto belli… ma troppo costosi!” Allora mi sono detto: “Beh adesso inizio a crearmi da me quello che mi piace, magari a qualcuno piace e riesco anche a vendere.” Il mio motto è sempre stato: un buon look ad un buon prezzo si può avere.
Mi spieghi un po’ meglio il concept alla base di WHY PANK? In particolare, quanto risente dell’influenza dello stile punk stesso, e perché c’è quel “WHY” all’inizio? In realtà non ho nessun rapporto con la musica punk in sè e non vado matto per le borchie. Il nome è nato da una cosa personale diciamo, uno scontro che ho avuto con dei miei amici e il loro stile, perfettamente anonimo, come dico io. Continuavano a dire che mi vestivo un po’ come loro, i punkettoni intendo, ma io in realtà ho sempre cercato di variare e sperimentare molti stili contemporaneamente. Andare su una longboard con un paio di creepers non fa di me un punk. Da qui nasce il nome WHY PUNK, perché (mi date del) punk? Tutti mi davano del punk all’inizio, ma senza dav 292
vero conoscermi o sapere chi fossi. In seguito ho rivisitato lo spelling cambiandolo da PUNK a PANK, con la “A” che richiamasse la parole Arte, l’arte del saper vestire e del valorizzare ciò che si indossa, ma anche l’arte del creare, costruire capi d’abbigliamento, che è quello che faccio io, oltre ad essere il motto del brand: THE ART OF CONSTRUCTING CLOTHES. Cos’è per te la sperimentazione? Quanto è importante? A parte l’andare controcorrente o fuori dalle righe, sperimentare consiste in primo luogo nel creare qualcosa di bello. Qualcosa di nuovo, certamente, ma comunque bello. Nuovo e brutto non ha senso. Per questo provo e riprovo migliaia di volte prima di andare avanti! Comunque sono principalmente influenzato dagli standards estetici internazionali, non strettamente italiani, visti gli innumerevoli blog stranieri che visito tutti i giorni.
Come hai iniziato ad ingranare ed essere apprezzato? Io da bravo novellino, ho iniziato con le T-shirts, che subito sono state apprezzate da Djs veterani come gli Ackee Juice e altri emergenti. Fortunatamente sono piaciuto a molti designers, e aziende di abbigliamento anche molto grandi che mi hanno chiesto di realizzare grafiche per loro. Continuo a pensare che sia molto bello dato che il tutto è nato perché avevo voglia di vestire me stesso e non gli altri. In ogni caso, tutto l’iniziale successo ha contribuito molto ad alimentare la mia creatività (che tra un po’ esplode), però… come per ogni grande idea, mi ci volevano (e vogliono) grandi finanziamenti. Non troppi eh… il giusto. (ride) Che ne pensi del fenomeno delle fake tees, dove i designs di celebri brands come Chanel e YSL vengono riprodotti e rielaborati grazie alla deformazione dei loghi? È o no un modo efficace per ribadire che ci si può vestire bene anche con poco? Credo sia un fenomeno che con l’andare avanti ha totalmente distrutto la creatività di chi lo ha creato. Inizialmente era anche carino, ma con l’andare del tempo chiunque ha iniziato ad indossare maglie del genere. Io mi sono anche chiesto: “Che senso ha indossare loghi a caso?” Questo è solo un altro esempio del quanto il made in Italy faccia sempre più pena. Voglio fare un esempio: io stravedo per i prodotti Macintosh, ma uno che lavora nel campo informatico non comprerebbe mai un Mac pc perché fa figo: nonostante sia potente e tutto, ci sono pc migliori! 293
E come ne sei uscito? Ho ricevuto un mare di proposte di qua e di là, ma niente che potesse realmente interessarmi, anche perché l’impressione era che tutti mi chiedessero di vendermi a loro praticamente. Ho aspettato e aspettato. Io mi creo la mia arte e la gente deve sapere che mi appartiene. Poi un giorno mi contatta un’azienda emergente di nome Sevenshirt, composta da ragazzi giovani, cosa che mi ha accattivato da subito. Quali sono stati i termini con la Sevenshirt? Mi hanno chiesto di disegnare tutta la linea di accessori, in particolare borse. Sono sicuro che presto ne sentiremo parlare!
“Ambassador” bag designed by Jon for the Sevenshirt Heritage Collection
Come fotografo invece come te la cavi? Io dico bene. Ma qual è il tuo approccio alla materia? Diciamo che la fotografia posso dire che sia uno dei miei hobby. Mi piace scattare, ma non sono un professionista perché non ho studiato per farlo, comunque credo che neanche molti dei grandi della fotografia abbiano studiato. Quello che dico io è, basta applicarsi e continuare a provare all’infinito. Per il resto io guardo, imito, imparo, provo e vado avanti per la mia strada. Alcuni apprezzano, altri osservano dubbiosi. Hai dei punti di riferimento, in quanto a fotografi? (smorfia) In realtà no. Come per niente. Uso solo la mia testa. Giro siti, riviste, vedo cose belle ogni giorno che mi ispirano, ma molto spesso non so di chi si tratti. Se ti dovessi dare un nome… Man Ray? Poi per il resto ammiro i classici, dei geni. Certo, quelli che dico io non hanno niente a che fare con la fotografia di moda, che rimane il mio campo, ma hanno comunque il loro modo di influenzarmi. Però non farò mai foto à la Bresson, per capirci. 294
Altri hobbies? Dai, parlami del tuo rapporto con la musica. È iniziato tutto quando ero ancora molto piccolo, grazie ad un mio cugino, credo il mio migliore amico di sempre. Mi ha insegnato a suonare il basso elettrico in stile reggae, blues e gospel. Al basso poi ho aggiunto il piano. Lo suonavo per lo più in chiesa, dato che mio padre è il reverendo di una chiesa protestante-pentecostaleevangelica. A lui devo molto del mio carattere e della mia intelligenza, soprattutto grazie al modo razionale ma intransigente con cui mi ha educato. Chiusa parentesi, crescendo i miei gusti musicali si sono ampliati e sono passato al rock di ogni genere, ed ecco entrare in scena la chitarra elettrica. Ho anche una batteria elettrica, un’armonica… e altri strumenti. Sì, mi piace la musica. Ora suono in una band, The Nurbs, formata nel febbraio 2011. Non abbiamo un genere, i generi sono noiosi, suoniamo quello che ci piace mischiando anche varie sonorità, provando tutto, dall’acustico all’elettronica. A breve pubblicheremo il nostro primo demo. Hai consigli da dare a chi vuole intraprendere la strada affascinante ma difficile che hai scelto tu? Il mio messaggio è sempre: fai una cosa, e falla fino in fondo. Almeno, questo è quello che faccio io. Se credi in qualcosa e credi di poterla fare, buttati! Però è anche vero che il mondo in cui viviamo non dà spazio a chi ha idee, ma a chi ha soldi per finanziarsi. Se hai ottime idee e non hai i soldi per realizzarle, beh aspetta, tientele per te. Una volta rubata, un’idea non torna indietro. Ognuno conta solo su se stesso, così funziona oggi. Per cui, dall’altro lato, se proprio lo dovete fare, “vendete aria fritta” ma poi siate concreti! Hai consigli da dare a chi vuole intraprendere la strada affascinante ma difficile che hai scelto tu? Sì, io sono uno che pensa al futuro, ma soprattutto vive molto la realtà, pochi sogni e più risultati concreti, dico io. Find Jonnie on: http://www.facebook.com/WHYPANK http://www.sevenshirt.co.uk/artists.php http://www.500px.com/JonMalvinK http://www.facebook.com/THE.NRBZ
interview by Sara Scialpi
you should know.
Karley Sciortino Lei è Karley Sciortino, 25 anni, newyokese, e contributer fissa di riviste come Dazed and Confused, Interview e Vice . Principalmente conosciuta per il suo blog “Slutever”, in cui scrive di sesso in modo assolutamente crudo e ironico nel tempo stesso.
Karley ha iniziato a scrivere solo nel 2007, ma adesso il suo blog è diventato più che un semplice diario del sesso. La sua particolare scrittura punk, diretta, e spesso sboccata, ha fatto si che i suoi 4 anni di blogging diventassero addirittura un libro. Nel libro in tiratura limitata è possibile leggere una raccolta dei suoi migliori post; racconti di masturbazioni di gruppo, tetraplegici schiavi del sesso, storie di maniaci e pervertiti, il tutto accompagnato da tantissimo materiale fotografico. Karley da grande femminista è anche parte integrante di un collettivo artistico tutto al femminile: Girlcore, il cui scopo è innanzitutto quello di divertirsi promuovendo il talento delle donne. http://twitter.com/Slutever http://www.girlcoremag.com http://www.slutever.com/ text by Ramona Tabita 297
La cancellazione si ha quando la memoria non incontra pi첫 i suoi oggetti di studio.
Work by CU
upandcomingstyle. webzine in photographic format dedicated to fashion and all its influences