Sported@Brown is Brown Universityâ€™s newest street style blog, created by Fashion@Brown. sportedatbrown.com Come to our release party! FRIDAY, FEB 24TH 7pm Granoff, Kooper Studio *~*~* + live music by DJs Emre + Sunset *~*~*
the blog www.unhemmedblog.com
read. submit. share.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF April Zhang
editorial & publishing FASHION Vivian Carlson, Victor Ha, Madeleine Luckel STREET STYLE BEAUTY Becca Gevertz, Samantha Rose Marissa Petteruti DIY Mo Hy
ART Chelsea English
ENTERTAINMENT THAT GIRL/THAT GUY Marissa Bergman Michelle Frea PHOTOGRAPHY HEALTH Erin Schwartz, Eve Blazo Marissa Ilardi BLOG COPY Tiffany Mendoza Camille Spencer-Salmon
business FUNDRAISING Liv Nam
PUBLICITY Liz Kelley
ADVERTISING SALES Hyoju Lim
in this issue 6
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
20 FASHION 22 Trend Report: SS2012 26 Going Green 28 On The Runway: FW2012 30 Defending Punk 32 Freaky Friday 46 The Men’s Revolution 48 BEAUTY 50 Funky Nails 52 Sock Curls 56 Seven Days of Beauty 58 HEALTH 60 All-Access PE Pass 62 Quinoa Salad Recipe 64 DIY 66 Skull Tee 68 Bleached Denim Shorts 70 Ombré Tee 72 ENTERTAINMENT 74 Behind the Wardrobe: Downton Abbey 76 We are All a Lost Generation 78 Born to Reign 80 THAT GIRL/THAT GUY 82 That Guy: Ryan McCabe 84 That Guy: Eddie Cleofe 86 ART 88 Fashionable Impressions 90 Featured Artist: Mary-Evelyn Farrior 92 Student Submissions 102 PHOTOSHOOT 104 Remember, Then On the cover: Haruka Aoki Photograph by: Phoebe Neel
This is me, circa 1994. I want those floral leggings and that fruit-printed dress. (But I do not want that haircut ever again.) Some things are meant to be left in the past, but some are meant to stay with us forever. February is the month when the fashion world looks to the future -- designers show their fall collections and people wonder why some are already excited for winter clothes when spring is just around the corner. The fashion world moves forward, but in this issue, we look back. We asked you what you miss most about the nineties in the street style section. We see how the nineties inspired many designers’ fall ready-to-wear collections in Madeleine’s summary of New York Fashion Week. Victor’s Freaky Friday spread reminds us that Lindsay Lohan was once a real star. Our nails get funky, our hair gets big, and we’d kill for the fashion in Downton Abbey. Last semester, in the not-too-distant past, we hosted a release party, which featured a gorgeous art installation by MJ Batson (co-editor-in-chief ), who normally would have written a letter much like this to be put on the opposite page. MJ is studying abroad this semester (hi, MJ!) so instead, we have photos from the event to show you. Nostalgia is great, but let’s get excited for what lies ahead: another awesome spring semester, warmer weather, Brown Fashion Week (!), and lots of seriously fabulous future issues of Unhemmed! I can’t wait. Much love,
photos by: Katie Cusumano, Han Sheng Chia
Never leave home without chunky scarf
Photo by Mariya Bashkatova
Favorite 90s band *NSYNC
Becky Willner â€˜12
Never leave home without large earrings Next must-have purchase circle scarf
Photo by Katie Cusumano
Pilar Garcia-Brown â€˜14
Sheila Sitaram â€˜15
Favorite 90s TV show The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air
Photo by Samantha Rose
Favorite 90s band Nirvana
Next must-have purchase a nice suit
Photo by Sally Luu
Favorite 90s band Red Hot Chili Peppers
Favorite 90s band Incubus Favorite 90s TV show Johnny Bravo
Photo by Mariya Bashkatova
Max Dimich-Louvet ‘15
Anna Byon ‘15
Photo by Erin Schwartz
Next must-have purchase pleated-front sailor pants
Photo by Erin Schwartz
Sarah Schade â€˜15
Devon Anderson GS
Most recent purchase chartreuse cotton pencil skirt
Never leave home without a knit hat Favorite 90s artist Britney Spears
Photo by Sally Luu
Favorite 90s TV show Boy Meets World
Next must-have purchase leggings Favorite 90s TV show Friends
Photo by Katie Cusumano
Edward Cleofe â€˜15
Min Jung You â€˜14
Favorite 90s TV show Freaks and Geeks
Photo by Sally Luu
Never leave home without a watch
Maggie Hire â€˜15
Photo by Erin Schwartz
Blake Beaver â€˜14
trend report peacoats
Next must-have purchase vintage coat
Next must-have purchase utility jacket
Photo by Erin Schwartz
Favorite 90s TV show Are You Afraid of the Dark?
Photo by Erin Schwartz
Mo Hy â€˜14
Sarah Denacy â€˜12
Next must-have purchase flats Favorite 90s style icon Dylan from 90210
Next leave home without underwear
Photo by Sally Luu
Favorite 90s TV show Pokémon
Next must-have purchase Dolce & Gabbana rose gold watch Favorite 90s band Sugar Ray
Photo by Sally Luu
Tomas Quinonez-Riegos ‘15
Libby Stein ‘15
trend report peacoats
Next must-have purchase Gap Original 1969 jeans
Photo by Sally Luu
Favorite 90s band Boyz II Men
Daniel Bernard â€˜12
trend report by Elaine Kuckertz
Diane von Furstenberg
the traditional floral and pastel themes of spring that have been exaggerated to comical proportions of hyper-femininity. On the other hand is the wilder, more graphic style. Over-saturated colors and outrageous patterns inspire a bolder feel for spring. The emergence of two drastically different styles in one season is perfect for Providence.
3.1 Philip Lim
Providence weather can be incredibly fickle. This winter, I have walked out in January to 55-degree temperature followed by snowfall and low 30s. In one day, the weather can change into its antithesis. Spring fashion, in celebration of this particularly capricious season, strikes a balance between ladylike delicacy and bold expressiveness. On the one hand, there are
There is a very delicate quality about spring pastels. Their serene, muted essence is great for minimalist styles. This color palette works nicely when paired with neutrals, such as nude pumps.
What is better for spring than flowers? These floral prints retain a certain sweetness while entering an edgier territory with large blocks of patterns and bold colors.
Dries von Noten
Delicately thin chiffon makes wonderful pleated skirts. The sheer fabric is almost excessively feminine in a skirt like this.
Marc by Marc Jacobs
While emphasizing the waist is a popular and flattering trend, it is so refreshing to see dresses with less shape and a lower belt line. These flirty dresses are a great twist on the traditional sundress.
The brighter the better! Wearing one bold, over-saturated color can turn heads against a palette of spring pastels.
Geometric and tribal patterns have maintained their popularity from fall, but in addition to these lines, other outlandish prints have emerged. Not only have designers pushed into the pattern-on-pattern territory, but there are also prints involving cars and seashells.
The collared shirt, the staple of professional elegance, took a funkier twist this season. Shirts with colored or embellished collars and button lines are popular for spring. This is a great way to add a pop of color and originality to your corporate outfit.
Giorgio Armani Spring 2012 RTW
Armani Privé Spring 2012 Couture
Versace Spring 2012 RTW
Armani Privé Spring 2012 Couture
going green by Audrey Cho
hether you believe in global warming or not, there’s no way to deny the frenzy of ‘going green’ across the globe. Aside from the political agendas and heated disputes, it’s hard not to notice the other green trend. Debuting their Spring 2012 collections, designers like Giorgio Armani seem to have been inspired to take the phrase ‘go green’ literally and are encouraging us to do the same. Mesmerizing us in the form of Versace’s electric yellow-greens, or tantalizing us with Bottega Veneta’s totes from last summer, green is the new hue that may hold the magic to completing your ensemble. We are here to give it the spotlight it deserves. To be fair to those who haven’t been as quick to sport this trend (myself included), green has often been marginalized as a color reserved for redheads or the holidays. But what is fashion if not the act of breaking boundaries and the status quo? Traversing both space and time at the Atelier Versace Couture Spring 2012 show, the collection consisted of exotic and futuristic cuts in a lime green-yellow palette that was at once fierce and electrifying. But if these über mod, beaded green shades haven’t convinced you of the color (or the price), and if you are really hesitant to dive into J.Crew’s festival green Madelene dress, then take a hint from Bottega Veneta. The brand began subtly, by incorporating a deep lustrous green into their handbag collection last summer, gaining rapid admiration and causing us to ask, “green, where have you been?” Continuing with the trend of the
color’s snowballing popularity, Bottega Veneta’s creative director, Tomas Maier, has now presented us with a dynamic, algae-green dress for the brand’s Ready-to-Wear Spring 2012 line. But it was at the Armani Privé show that the hue reached its long overdue height. Textural jackets resembling sleek reptile skin and form fitting A-line skirts fluttering down the runway took on their full effect thanks to the full range of greens used— from an intoxicating absinthe to a deep forest green. Weaving the theme of metamorphosis in with an unconventionally bold advocacy for the color green seems to be a way to coax us into taking on our own transformation and embracing the movement of “going green.” It may make us green with envy (pun intended) for anyone who can afford Versace dresses or Bottega Veneta satchels, but there are not many among us at Brown that will purchase any of the fantastic looks from the Armani Privé Spring 2012. The more affordable and discreet option could be a printed green and pink Lilly Pulitzer iPhone/Blackberry case, or Urban Outfitters’ sparkling olive green flower studs. If you felt bolder, I personally would die for the J. Crew Pearl and Crystal pinwheel necklace, a statement piece in emerald green that could revamp a simple black sweater for a classy affair. In the end, remember that whatever way you decide to incorporate such pieces into your daily outfits, you’ll be making your wardrobe a little greener.
all images: style.com
Versace Spring 2012 Couture
Bottega Veneta Spring 2012 RTW
Bottega Veneta Spring 2012 RTW
Versace Spring 2012 RTW
Versace Spring 2012 RTW
Versace Spring 2012 Couture
Armani PrivĂŠ Spring 2012 Couture
on the runway Fall 2012 RTW – Early in Week Trends: 90’s Minimalism Still has Strong Place with Young Designers, Whether Timely and Enduring or Overexposed by Madeleine Luckel
The beginning of Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear New York Fashion Week, with young but established designers showing, demonstrated a repetition of minimalist trends, the usual dominance of black for Fall, and a sharp decrease in prints… a continuation of ‘90’s trends. While there were some notable exceptions, edgy looks and sheer sequined gowns were an un-innovative continuation of trends that have proved successful in the markets and red-carpet world. This prevalence was both disappointing and raised questions about just how refreshing the designers of the new CDFA generation are proving to be. Are they together creating a coherent and consistent aesthetic for the modern American city woman, and successfully perceiving both what she would wear and would aspire to wear? If so, this season, with consideration of past years, would paint them as a group akin in collective influence to the old masters of the 50’s and 60’s such as Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. If not, designers such as Rodarte, may be the more the interesting, and enduring, future in fashion. (Although this design team is notably a CDFA success story - whose collection this week had prairie influences.) Earlier in the week, Alexander Wang and 3.1 Phillip Lim maintained a preference for simplified black. While Prabel Gurang had similar issues and a somewhat un-cohesive collection, he broke away from his contemporaries with examples of precise tailoring and sea- swirling printed silk ensembles. Thakoon, originally noted within this grouping for his use of ir-
resistibly bright prints, followed suit thereby failing to stand out. The Row’s impeccable tailoring was proof of how beautiful neutral minimalist pieces can be, showing unique and surprising looks that kept the return to Calvin Klein 90’s chic from feeling too stale. Victoria Beckham and Zac Posen both had 90’s takes that stood out as different– with a more beatnik combo and tones of late ‘90’s wealth respectively. Peter Som had some simply elegant black looks that stood out amongst the many others, but repeated trends such as peplums and 20’s drop waists from last season. Som and Jason Wu both had strong Orientale influences, but occasional boring prints detracted from the opportunity to highlight unique tailoring. Haider Ackermann deleted “however” had some, unsurprisingly, very over-the-top but apt foliage prints. Plums and mauve stood out as a possible color of the season, with great examples of palettes in and Diane von Furstenberg, Alexander Wang, and Doo.ri take out collection or add apostrophe?. Doo. ri , despite being one of the relatively less successful of the CDFA stars, had solid collection. Perhaps her use of drapery has pinned her with too specific a niche, but this collection hit the perfect medium of playing to her strengths while not relying solely on them for structure. A couple personal favorites had to be the cap sleeved looks from Monique Llhullier and Jason Wu. All in all, it will be interesting to see what the rest of Fashion week brings, and what context it places these designers in. For more coverage on the latter half of New York Fashion Week, click here to go to the Unhemmed Blog.
defending punk by Margot Hauer-King
hen you hear the word “Punk,” most people immediately think of spiky mohicans, combat platform boots, pierced lips and lots of chains. Google “Punk,” and you’ll be bombarded with images of pink hair, collars and leather. These rather extreme and admittedly dubious fashion statements are largely born out of a musical movement that, having started in the 70s, developed continuously into an arguable low point in the 90s. Any subtlety and novelty that had initially accompanied these hair-dos and leather jackets was lost in favor of generic yet melodramatic styles associated with over-emotional teenagers. 90s Punk became a stereotype of itself, and so it is little wonder that people still shy away from it now. Take a trip to Camden Town in London, and you’ll find yourself surrounded by hordes of young teens, nervously puffing on cigarettes and wearing their requirement skull-and-cross-bone scarves. It isn’t difficult to blend in: find yourself a short tartan skirt, load on the spiky belts, die your hair pink, and shove a metal stud in your cheek/chest/ear/eyebrow/lip. You too can be a stereotypical “Punk.” Yet, having said this, I would personally suggest a more subtle take on this surviving and stagnant 90s trend. There is a fine line between looking “cool” and looking rather idiotic, but there are ways of staying on the right side of that line. Swap in the satanic graphics
for subtle studding, and you won’t have people wondering if you have voodoo dolls and spiders in your dorm room. The first and foremost tip I offer in the search for approachable Punk is cleanliness. If you want black and red nails, that’s fine, but make sure they’re not chipped and broken. Wear ripped tights by all means, but don’t smell. Black eyeliner is a yes, but not all the way down your face. Think Punk-Chic, not Punk-Heroine-Addict. On this note, try to steer clear of DIY hair alterations where possible. I tried to die mine purple during my trendy pre-adolescent years and achieved nothing but stained marble. No one wants to walk through campus being asked why they look suicidal / are going to a funeral, so strive against wearing too much black. Instead, incorporate some leopard print or red lipstick-- just make sure it’s more Megan Fox than Beth Ditto. All things lacy, sheer, mesh, and netted can add a “cool” twist without making you look entirely unattractive and unapproachable. And don’t forget leather: leather pants, leather tops, leather boots, leather jackets. Just never don all leather at the same time, and never leather with any chains or padding (tentative studding permitted). Most importantly, try not to scowl. You can make Punk work, but not if you look like you’re searching for your next smack hit. Happy Punking.
FREAKY F R I DAY
Springâ€™s leading trends take center stage in this retelling of the 2003 Lindsay Lohan classic.
Prints & Princesses Enter & thePrincesses principal Prints characters of our Enter the principal story, two of best friends characters our story, with for two bestpenchants friends with springtime patterns-penchants for springtime and -year-round patterns and yearround catfights.
When the waitress notices the two fighting again, she canâ€™t help but step in by slipping something extra into their drinks.
Hint: it wasnâ€™t shots of espresso...
Didnâ€™t anybody ever tell these two never go to bed upset?
You just might wake up to find that youâ€™ve...
Color Me Mad The two are far less taken with one another than they are with this seasonâ€™s bold, bright hues.
Queens of the Jungle Heâ€™s begun to enjoy the body switch, as well as the mixed animal prints seen this spring. Though dashing in a Hawaiian shirt-esque top, sheâ€™s less enthusiastic.
A Full House Looks like everyoneâ€™s at the theatre tonight! As he gets to play girlfriend in an on-trend crop, she spots the waitress and begs her (in vain) to change them back.
Sheer Love After a long day, the two begin to see that theyâ€™re meant to be friends-and that see-through elements are meant for both genders.
Everythingâ€™s All White A heart-to-heart night calls for head-to-toe white. Our story ends as the two kiss and make up... and switch back to their own bodies.
By Victor Ha
Photographer: Katherine Cusumano
Models: Rosa Congdon, Layla Heidari, Ross Hegtvedt
Revolution: A Spring Style Guide by Julian Ezenwa is not news that men’s fashion is rapidly I tchanging. Soccer players like Cristiano Ron-
wears clothing by Junya Watanabe, and Steve Jobs has been labeled a fashion icon. Men’s aldo and David Beckham have become the fac- fashion has never been so inclusive and interes of luxury fashion brands while hip hop artist esting, incorporating quirkiness, androgyny, Kanye West doubles as a fashion designer. The and class. king of rap himself, Jay-Z, was featured on the Here’s my spring style guide for les hommes, incover of GQ as a man of the year. Justin Bieber spired by my favorite designers from Paris.
Julius Spring 2012 Menswear
John Galliano Spring 2012 Menswear
Hello, 80s Pants
Form-fitting jeans continue to be on trend, but this season, experiment with different silhouettes such as oversized pants and harem pants. On warmer days, try light shorts that end at least half an inch above the knee. New slim jeans at Levi’s cost about $40 a pair, but if you are madly in love with your current pair of jeans, take them to your nearest dry cleaner and have them tapered for half the price.
Issey Miyake Spring 2012 Menswear
John Galliano Spring 2012 Menswear
Color is All We’ve Got
This spring, don’t be scared to play around with patterns. All shades of blue are a great addition to any look. From Alexander McQueen to Louis Vuitton, reds, whites, and blues are great colors to have in your wardrobe. Vertical stripes on T-shirts and pants elongate the body and have a slimming effect. Lastly, monochromatic palettes are in vogue.
Louis Vuitton Spring 2012 Menswear
From trench coats to blazers to loafers, a classic piece added to any outfit results in a transformation. Louis Vuitton’s spring collection uses the occasional scarf to tie a look together or make an otherwise plain look stand out. The great thing about classic accessories such as sandals or hats is that you can wear them everyday. Use a pair of wayfarers or aviators to instantly upgrade your look.
Issey Miyake Spring 2012 Menswear
photos: GQ France, style.com
he Mic , k ilaila atova W a hk y han ya Bas c ade Mari By K os by ela Cao t Pho el: Ang Mod
ail ful n r o l , co ncil r e p a e led: remov e ona n g l h a l i s i i w ol rrd colo ith diffe you d nail p f t o a Wh hes, an strip t this w k s c i i l po a th Repea lled. t n li . fi il po y : Pa e nails nail is a 1 n p e all Ste ross th ntil the in th vertic still l i c u c a n is up rs ly e pe rag it polish colo h t t n d p i e il xt, d gently the na e N d hile r an p 2: Ste emove olors w c r ish ss the acro . wet
FOR THE ULTIMATE HEAD OF CURLS
by Lorraine Limpahan
photos by Samantha Cheung
tâ€™s a no-brainer: rollers are out and socks are in. The no-heat solution for troublesome, pin-straight hair can be a simple, speedy step in your bedtime ritual. Whether you prefer romantic waves or tight rag curls, this voluminous style lasts around the clock. Will you look ridiculous in your sleep? Yes. Will you have a gorgeous head of curls in the morning, anyway? Absolutely.
What you need 1.Five+ clean and stretchy socks/stockings 2.Thickening Hairspray (highly recommended: got2b Fat-tastic with collagen infusion) 3.OPTIONAL: Hair putty (recommended: Garnier Fructis Style Fiber gum putty) 4.Water for dampening 5.A brush 1
1. Comb through clean, DRY hair. Style a small amount of hair putty (optional) through your hair, focusing on the roots and ends.
2. Begin to section off your hair, starting with a small, middle section at the crown of your head â€“ these will be your tightest, top curls. Dampen slightly by spraying a small amount of water into the section, mainly on the ends of your hair.
3. Hold this section up high for tighter curling and settle the sock over the hair. Place the end of the section below the middle of the sock. Begin to wrap your hair tightly over the sock by rolling the sock in the forward direction, towards your scalp.
7. Get a goodnight’s sleep! It’s normal for the buns to loosen slightly over the course of the night. Sleep with your sock curls for at least 5 hours for best results. 8. In the morning, carefully untie each section and pull the end of the sock downwards to remove (un-rolling
4. When you’ve reached your scalp, carefully tie the ends of the sock in a tight knot without letting the wrapping loosen. For a stronger hold, tie a second time. 5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 with the other remaining sections of your hair – the more hair you have, the more sections you will want. Here (for thin and medium hair thickness), we use 5 total with 2 buns on each side of the head, and 3 vertically on the back. 6. Spray a thickening hairspray over your tied-up hair to keep the curls in place and volumize. 6
not recommended). 9. Flip your hair over and tousle the crown of your head to shake out and loosen your curls. Run your fingers through your hair and make the curls as loose or as tight as you desire – the curls will settle into more natural waves throughout the day. Style with more hairspray, if needed. 10. Voilà!
seven days of beauty
by Marissa Petteruti
photos: Dan Fethke; model: Dani Grodsky
Brown University is a place of diversity in almost every sense of the word. Clothes cover a vast spectrum of different styles, but funky outfits are only one aspect of a person’s overall style – makeup can be equally expressive. While you can mix and match clothes to suit your mood, it’s much easier to create completely unique and one-of-a-kind looks using makeup. To get a glimpse inside the beauty regimen of a fellow Brown student, I followed Dani Grodsky ’14, as she took me through her weekly makeup routine.
Sunday: Less is More If you’ve had a rough Saturday night, keep Sunday’s makeup simple. Put on a light layer of foundation, dust on a bit of blush, and add a subtle splash of eye shadow. Finish this look with a sheer lip-gloss and you’re ready to start the day!
Monday: Not-So-ShrinkingViolet Let’s be honest – no one wants to spend a lot of time doing fancy makeup on a Monday morning. But you have class, and it’s nice to look stylish. Try a silvery eye shadow and vivid purple eyeliner to make your irises pop. Complete the look with a dash of light pink lipstick to brighten things up.
Tuesday: Pretty in Pink
Add a bit of color to your weekly routine – brush on a hint of pink eye shadow onto your lids and highlight your brow bone with a lighter shade. Draw a thin line of black eyeliner on your upper and lower lash lines and blend; try not to be too heavy on the eyeliner. Then, apply a deep pink lipgloss for the finishing touch.
Wednesday: Icy Chic
It may be February, but the winter weather certainly hasn’t subsided. Dust a chalky, light-colored eye shadow over your eyelids, right up to the brow bone. Line your bottom lashes with the same color. To complete the icy look, apply a very light pink lipstick.
Thursday: Earthy Tones
If you’re in the mood to warm things up, use rich colors. Put a light layer of burgundy eye shadow and blend upwards, highlight the brow bone with a shimmery white. Try Bobbi Brown’s “Brownie” lipstick.
Saturday:The Smoky Eye
Friday: Freaky Friday
By the end of the week, you’re sure to want to let loose and take a few more risks with your makeup. Use two shades of purple, blending outwards from the outer corner of the eye. A sparkly bit of hot pink lip-gloss completes this colorful look.
No weekly beauty regimen is complete without this look – it’s perfect for a Saturday night out. Use a dark gray shadow on the outer corner of the eye and a shimmery white shadow on the inner corner. Blend these two colors together, creating an intensity gradient. Then, apply a thick layer of black eyeliner on your upper and lower lash lines, extending the lower line over the outer edge of the eye. Apply Sephora’s “Bronzed Beauty” lipgloss.
by Austin Rennacker
he usual style forecast for winter falls somewhere along the lines of puffy jackets and layers of tights, leggings, pants -- anything to keep warm. Conveniently, these clothes also happen to entirely hide away your body. But spring and summer are rapidly approaching, and that means wearing shorts, skirts and crop tops. When it’s time to slip into those tiny jean cutoffs for Spring Weekend once again, the last thing you want to worry about is whether you can still button them up. When a workout at the gym involves thirty tedious (and boring!) minutes on an elliptical or endless circling of a track, a little more motivation is necessary to prepare our minds and bodies for spring. Classes at the OMAC and Bears Lair are a fantastic alternative to working out alone at the gym. To participate in classes, you need to buy a pass, or “The Pass,” which gives you complete access to classes such as yoga, Zumba, and spinning. All of the cardio classes are paired with loud, upbeat music, so no iPod and semi-functioning sweaty ear buds are necessary. Classes are available at a variety of times, from 7 in the morning until almost 10 at night – perfect for accommodating the lives of busy Brown students like me. Plus, going with friends gives you a chance to hang out and makes the seemingly long trek to the OMAC so much shorter. I recommend the spinning classes; the teachers are so upbeat and excited about exercise - it’s infectious! I’ve tried almost every class by now, and I enjoy the vast majority of them. I like breaking a sweat when I workout. On the other hand, the slow pace of the yoga and Pilates classes are great for a little relaxation and centering of my day. For those of us who aren’t varsity athletes, it’s often hard to find time for exercise, but your body and health should still be priorities. By buying a pass, the simple fact that you spent money on it might just motivate you to go more often.
o Sa a
Eating well in college is a challenge, and having an arsenal of quick healthy recipes can be especially essential for those of us off meal plan. I learned how to make this jazzed up salad a few years ago and it has been a favorite ever since. by Marissa Ilardi
* s t n e i d e r
Quinoa Chicken or vegetable broth Lettuce Spinach Sliced almonds Goat cheese Avocado Chicken Breast Salt Ground black pepper Lemon juice Extra virgin olive oil Balsamic vinegar
Feel free to play around with the ingredients; pecans and walnuts are great alternatives to almonds, chicken can be replaced with tofu for a vegetarian option, chopped green beans add a nice crunch, etc.
1. Start by prepping around half a cup of quinoa. You can follow the instructions on the packaging, but generally you combine quinoa and liquid in a pot in a 1:2 ratio, bring that to a boil, reduce it to a simmer, cover and let cook for twenty minutes. I would suggest cooking in chicken or vegetable broth for added flavor, but plain water will do in a pinch.
If your chicken breast is too big, slice in half (so it is about a ¼” – ½” thick). Cover liberally with lemon juice and sprinkle salt and pepper on both sides of your slice. If you are lucky enough to have a grill, grill your chicken, and celebrate having one less pot to clean. If not, heat up some oil (olive or vegetable oil will work fine) in a pan, and cook through, flipping occasionally (be careful not to overcook!)
While your chicken and quinoa are cooking, wash and dry your lettuce, spinach and any other greens you want in your salad. Toss these into your bowl (or bowls if you are cooking for a friend as well)
4. Sprinkle on sliced almonds and avocado (cut into chunks). Crumble some goat cheese on as well. 5. When your quinoa is done, add a few heaping spoonfuls on top. 6. Cut your chicken into slices (once it is cooked through of course) and add that too. 7. Dress with olive oil and vinegar (or your dressing of choice, although I would avoid anything creamy like ranch).
8. Enjoy, and be proud of your cooking skills and healthy life choices.
[ Skull Tee ] by Camille Spencer
...or, a starting point for all of the cool modifications you can make with a pair of scissors and an old T-shirt!
1. Turn your shirt inside out so the pattern lines won’t be visible and lay it flat on your work surface. 2. Use chalk or pencil to sketch your cutout pattern. You can find one you like with a quick “skull t shirt” Google image search or copy this one. Depending on what you pick your shirt will be somewhere between creepy and cute once you’re done.
3. Cut it out! Try to make your cuts smooth to minimize ragged edges, which can look sloppy.
4. You can wear your cutout shirt alone or layered over another contrasting shirt/ dress/top/whatever you feel.
5. Other modifications to try: cut out just the shoulders à la Alexander Wang (use liquid seam sealant to keep it looking neat) or a spinal column down the middle of your back if you’re diggin’ the skull vibe but don’t shop at Hot Topic anymore.
bleached denim shorts by Mo Hy and Sam Cheung
You’ll Need: • Denim shorts • Bleach • Gloves • Bucket • Old toothbrush 1. Fill the bottom of a shallow bucket with bleach. 2. Depending on your personal preference, soak either the waistband or the bottom of the shorts in the bleach. Don’t worry about how even the application is; the imperfect edge will just add to the effortlessly cool distressed feel of the look. 3. After about an hour, remove the shorts.
photos by Jake Moffett
4. With the toothbrush, scrub the line where the bleach meets the denim to make the transition between the colors a bit smoother.
5. Rock your fresh new shorts and be the envy of friends and strangers alike.
by Mo Hy
photos by Jake Moffett
You’ll Need: • A white tee • Colored fabric dye • Salt • Clothes hanger • Bucket • Water 1. For even dye application, dampen your fabric; you want it to be wet but not dripping. 2. Taking your packet of dye, separate the contents into three even parts in different containers. 3. Begin the dying process. Empty one container of dye into the water, and mix according to the instructions on the packet (This is typically where the salt comes into play!) At this step, for the first immersion, the color will be the least concentrated. 4. Put your white tee on the clothes hanger for even dye application, and dip it into the dye. Stop about six inches from the neckline. Remember, this will be the deepest you dip the tee. 5. Remove the shirt, and add the second container of dye. Dip the tee again approximately 2/3 of the depth of the previous step 6. Add the final container of dye. This time the color will the most intense, and you will want to dip only the bottom few inches of the tee. Let it sit in the bucket of dye for a few minutes to absorb more color. Almost done! 7. Wash your tee. 8. Leave the tee to dry. And voila, you’ve successfully transformed your bland white tee into a staple with a fresh pop of color.
Behind the Wardrobe:
Lady Sybilâ€™s fashion risk
Downton Abbey By: Caroline Bologna
f you haven’t heard of Downton Abbey, then you’ve probably managed to live your life free from the ubiquitous influence of social media and pop culture chatter. If this is the case, then bravo to you and your undoubtedly productive existence. I hasten to add, however, that you have no idea what you’re missing. Downton Abbey has swept the nation. The British period drama is wildly popular, a fact which, considering the genre, is quite surprising to critics and viewers alike. Indeed, a show about conservative British aristocrats and their servants doesn’t necessarily sound like something with mass appeal, at least on paper. In reality, there’s something undeniably captivating about Downton Abbey’s combination of romance, historical escapism, stellar performances, and of course, fantastic period costumes. (Oh, and the British accents help too.) Just as New York City is often referred to as the “fifth star” of Sex and the City, the period piece wardrobe certainly plays its own major role in the Downton Abbey. From the gorgeous black beaded evening gowns to the assorted tea hats, the visual depiction of the upper crust Crawley family is dazzling. Everything is perfectly tailored and suitably dignified. At the same time, the contrast with the staff ’s white aprons and plain black or printed dresses adds to the show’s upstairs-downstairs examination of the British class system. The educational aspect of the costumes is not limited to the societal picture. It’s particularly interesting to observe the evolution of characters’ wardrobes as the show progresses through history, from the sinking of the Titanic to the aftermath of WWI. The wartime period, in particular, brought many new
additions to the wardrobe, like nurse outfits and regimental accessories, all of which shed light on the cultural significance of this era. As the costumes are authentic and impressive, it is that a lot of care went into each character’s outfit selection. The wardrobe even works its way into subplots, like Lady Sybil’s shocking trousers ensemble in the first season. This was both indicative of the time period and a reflection of her character as rebellious and forward thinking. In what was perhaps an effort to save money, many of the female characters sport dresses borrowed from older costume dramas. The wardrobe department has other sources for the attire, however. As costume designer Susanna Buxton noted, the three Crawley sisters’ garden party dresses from season one “demonstrate the different ways in which we brought the costumes together for the show. Mary’s dress was made for her. Edith’s was hired — it was previously used in the MerchantIvory production of Room With A View — and Sybil’s is an original Edwardian summer dress.” The influence of Downton Abbey’s wardrobe is evident as modernday viewers are trying to bring the historical romance into their own lives. Accessories like over-the-elbow gloves are suddenly selling out of stores. This fusion of old and new is certainly intriguing. Still, a word to the wise: try to avoid the tempting online articles depicting the cast members dressed up for premiers or wearing their street clothes. Somehow, seeing these relatively unknown actors in jeans and mini-dresses shatters the romantic illusion on which Downton Abbey thrives. And it’s an escapist fantasy worth maintaining.
We Are All A Lost Generation
By Nicole Salvador
It’s a time of high unemployment, economic instability, and slim, boyish it-girls who gallivant to the audience of the public’s fascination. Today bears a striking resemblance to the days of F. Scott Fitzgerald and Gertrude Stein. The 1920s zeitgeist is in full force, with last year’s Midnight in Paris, the anxiously awaited 3D Great Gatsby and the HBO-can-do-no-wrong Boardwalk Empire. Plus, you know you’ve heard the muffled trailer of The Artist on a constant loop walking by the Avon on your way to Nice Slice (or to “work out at the OMAC”). Yes, the twentieth century seems to be a constant reference point for inspiration in movies and culture, whether done well, like Chinatown, or utterly
contrived, like the seminal Grease 2. The Artist proves to be part of the former. Set between 1927 and 1932, it stars Jean Dujardin as George Valentin, the suave silent film heavyweight, and Bérénice Bejo as Peppy Miller, the eyelash-batting ingénue with voracious eyes set on Hollywood who woos him. If there ever was a movie to make you love cinema in the most regal sense, this is it. It cleverly alludes to A Star Is Born, Vertigo, and the film everyone is obligated to cite as one of the greatest, Citizen Kane. If not viewing it for the quality of the plot, watch it for the sheer visual opulence in its costuming.
Cloche hats. Fur collars. False lashes, midi-skirts, pleats, scoop-neck blouses, and texture, texture, texture. The very wearable and translatable fashions pop and flash like the incandescent light bulbs that showcased artdeco theaters. The fashion world turns to the 1920s again and again, from Sienna Miller’s memorable silver flapper dress at the premiere of Factory Girl, Florence Welch’s predictable gossamer slips, and Grace Coddington’s 1920s Vogue shoot as seen in The September Issue. We return to this era’s fashion so often because unlike the fleeting intrigue of, say, acid-wash high-waisted shorts or clogs of two years past, this look of the 20s and the early 1930s is so consistently and timelessly beautiful. Fashion is the most tangible representation of the changing of the times. As exemplified in The Artist, the skirts were shorter, the corsets gone, and the long, Victorian up-dos chopped
into Clara Bow bobs and soft finger-waves. The clothes are so alternately simple looking, yet completely intricate. While the shape of the era was decidedly straight and loose, the cuts and patterns are meticulous. The sequins, embellishments, the grain running in multiple directions, the ornate bodices, all thrown under a luxurious (faux) fur coat. With a strong brow, smoky eyes, and berry-bitten lips, these women exuded a new, sparkling sexuality one that was not so obvious and blaring. The Jazz Age is making another romp through fashion and style. Marion Cotillard exudes vintage French coquette on a regular basis and Blake Lively plays the buxom it-girl with a penchant for the romance of Marchesa, albeit sometimes looking more like an Ice Princess rather than a silent film sweetheart. So throw on that lace dress you bought from Second Time Around and party like it’s 1929.
© 2011 - The Weinstein Co.
Bérénice Bejo in the Jazz Age staples of cloche, fur coat, bobbed hair, and red lips.
Born to Reign By: Marissa Bergman
You know you know her; indie-pop’s newest darling. From her infamous lips to her recent SNL debacle, Lana Del Rey was no stranger to controversy prior to the release of her first mainstream, full-length album, Born to Die, in late January. She’s also no stranger to the fashion industry, currently gracing the cover of British Vogue and recently being signed to NEXT Model Management. Born Elizabeth Grant, Del Rey’s fast track to fame began a mere six months ago, when the 25-year-old posted a self-made music video with clips of “Hollywood sad core” for her song, “Video Games.” The video went viral, now boasting over 27 million views – many of which undoubtedly belong to Brown students. This overwhelming response led to Del Rey making a deal with Interscope Records, immediately beginning work on a record, and releasing a single at the end of December, “Born to Die,” accompanied by a breathtaking music video. The opening scene is an extended shot of a topless Del Rey in the arms of her screen boyfriend with a billowing American flag behind them, a hipster adaptation of Bruce Springsteen’s iconic Born in the USA album cover. Following this dramatic scene that matches the sweeping orchestral beginning of the song, the music video shifts to evidence of the significantly higher budget and production value compared to “Video Games.” The song adopts a heavier tone with brooding percussion, and as Del Rey begins to sing, the video pans from an ornate, frescoed ceiling in the Palace of Fontainebleau to the starlet perched on a throne, bordered by tigers. Surrounded by the marble interior of the extravagant room, while wearing a striking, brilliantly white gown with triangular cutouts and a blue rose crown, Del Rey is at her most theatrical in this scene, which continues to be intercut throughout the video. However, these shots also serve as the most visually appealing of the music video; vivid, compelling, and beautiful in their underlying melancholy. The plotline of the video follows the seemingly abusive relationship between Del Rey and her boyfriend, as they embark on a nighttime road trip. What begins with Del Rey running into the arms of her paramour, clad in red Converse
high-tops and a white leather fringed jacket, quickly transitions to a more sinister car ride. She is forced to kiss her boyfriend while staring mournfully out the window suffering flashbacks of the intercutting scenes of the couple in bed with Del Rey’s neck in a disturbing grip. Given the title of the song, “Born to Die,” it’s no surprise when the video closes with the limp, bloody body of Del Rey in the arms of her boyfriend while their car burns in the background. This track serves as the album’s title, understandably so, as it is the opening number and one of the outstanding pieces from the LP. Calling herself a “gangsta Nancy Sinatra,” the self-written album is a fascinating compilation of Del Rey’s husky voice, melancholy tunes, mischievous lyrics, and beautiful orchestration. Her “gangsta” influence is immediately recognizable in her second track, “Off to the Races,” which is a surprisingly fun song featuring Del Rey singing in her upper register instead of the usual deep tone. It’ a bit eclectic, as if Del Rey consciously decided to write an upbeat song, but it still serves as a lovely break from the ballad-heavy album, especially when many of these tracks can sound rather similar. Standouts from these ballads include “Million Dollar Man,” which is clearly influenced by the bluesy swells from the era of smoky jazz bars. The seductive tune is the perfect fit for Del Rey’s sultry voice, and it’s the best she sounds on the entire album. “Radio” is refreshing with light percussion to match the wispy vocals of the chorus. The most striking verses of the entire album are heard in “Dark Paradise,” and showcase Del Rey’s voice at its finest range, which then builds into a brooding, yet surprisingly lively, chorus matched with crying violins. Born to Die does not showcase a wide range of Lana Del Rey’s songwriting abilities, but that’s understandable after six years trying to make it in the music industry. While she is new to the popular music scene, she knows what she’s doing. Her album is full of melancholy ballads because that’s her forte. She’s good at what she does. She has already found her niche in the musical world, reinventing 60s soul in a sensual and sinister manner, with a touch of cheek. It’s clear that her music career has been born to thrive.
Ryan McCabe By Austin Rennacker photo by Dan Fethke Ryan McCabe, a member of the class of 2015, is one sassy San Diego native. He refuses to get his hair wet at the beach, speaks fluent Spanish, and is currently in the process of applying for Buxton.
What are your most hated male and female trends? As for male trends, I really hate low rise jeans that sag past the ass. If I want to see your ass, I’ll be sure to let you know. For females, I hate Uggs and jeggings. Black Uggs are generally fine with jeans, but I find that jeggings and tan Uggs together is probably one of the worst pairings I can think of. How long do you take to get ready in the morning? It usually takes me five minutes to get ready clothes-wise. To be honest, I often wake up late and grab whatever is on the floor. I’m a big proponent of the iron. If I have time to get my hair in order and fully wake up, it takes me about 25 minutes. How would you describe your style? My style is understated and slightly preppy. I like form-fitting sweaters and shirts that are tailored to fit well on the sleeve and shoulder areas. My favorite stores are J. Crew, Urban Outfitters, Bloomingdale’s and Ted Baker. Who would you say is your style icon? Blaine Anderson, Darren Criss’s character
from Glee. I feel like his style embodies my taste well. He’s also really gorgeous, so he looks good in anything! How are you adjusting to the East Coast style? I’ve really embraced the Northeastern style. I’ve invested in a number of pairs of Sperry’s, as well as a few peacoats and Patagonias. I find that people take more pride in putting themselves together here than they do back in California. Because the weather is colder in the Northeast, people are forced to dress themselves in more layers, providing more opportunity to put together a whole outfit as opposed to throwing on sandals, shorts and a short sleeve tee. There is definitely something to be said for both styles, but I’ve really enjoyed the change thus far. Where is someone most likely to find you around campus? I’m often at the Blue Room, because it’s the only good campus eatery. I also frequent the SciLi, although more often than not, my trips there prove to be minimally productive at best. I’m somewhat ashamed to admit that there will be weeks when I go into Urban [Outfitters] almost every day.
Eddie cleofe By Anisa Khanmohamed photo by Erin Schwartz Edward (“Eddie”) Cleofe, a first-year student hailing from Orange County, California, is a jovial guy whose smile lights up the room. Not only that, but he knows how to reflect his personality through his style. A “first-generation transnational Filipino American,” as he so eloquently phrased a description of his cultural background to me, he intends to concentrate in community health and ethnic studies. Eddie is an extremely involved student in other aspects as well through his work as a BuDS employee, Minority Recruitment Intern at the Office of College Admission, as well as in his involvement with the Bruin Club Executive Board, the Third World Center, Queer Alliance, and club field hockey.
How would you describe your personal style? I tend to wear lots of neutrals with one piece of my outfit standing out, either by using a strong pattern or color. Also, because of my height, I have to think about proportions a lot, like whether or not the way a certain pair of jeans fits will make me look shorter. When it comes to dressing formally, it’s about playing with the traditional, be it through something like an unexpected color or a more modern cut to a blazer. I guess I’d say it all comes down to balance.
that here at Brown, because of the weather, style tends to be more practical, whereas back home people just dress for fun.
Do you think that moving to Brown from the West Coast has had an influence on the way you dress? Definitely! It was funny when I went back home for break, and I was dressing more like the way I do at Brown—people were like, “Eddie, are you a hipster now?” I think
What’s a current trend in fashion that has caught your attention? Snoods! You know, those hoods that kind of cover you up more and try to be like scarves too? I guess I can see how they might be practical in the cold...but I don’t know. They kind of confuse me.
Are there any aspects of East Coast style that you like better (or worse) than what you see on the West Coast? I really like how you can play with layering much more here. Another thing is how all of my friends back home wear sweatpants and flip flops to their classes everyday. Disaster. I feel like if I wore sweatpants to class at Brown, I’d get stares!
fashionable impressions Van Gogh and Rodarte
by Chelsea English
rt” is an incredibly non-specific term. Traditionally, an artist is someone who draws, paints, sculpts, etc., and this is the type of art displayed in this section of the magazine. However, in a way, the entirety of Unhemmed could be considered to be about art, in that it explores the art of fashion as well as the impact it has. Normally it seems that the different areas of art (writing, music, visual arts) are very compartmentalized. One artist may draw inspiration from another form of art, or dabble in different types, but it doesn’t seem that different forms tend to merge very distinctly into one thing. That is exactly what has happened in the Rodarte Spring 2012 collection. Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the two sisters who established the Rodarte brand, have combined the art of Vincent van Gogh with their own art of designing clothing. They have not simply taken inspiration from his works, but have integrated his paintings into their clothes to the degree of instantaneous recognition. They have numerous dresses made with fabrics that have been imprinted with a van Gogh
masterpiece, one of the most notable being The Starry Night. The painting is one of van Gogh’s most well known works. On my first trip to the MoMA with my family, I was determined to see it just because I knew it was something that everyone had to see. As I approached the painting, I realized that I was not the only one who felt this way. I had to squeeze through a crowd of very diverse people; foreigners listening to their tour headsets, people taking a million pictures without actually looking, parents describing the piece to their young children, old couples just staring. For a moment, I had the feeling that maybe the painting wasn’t all that great, and it had just become so popular that the hype it created kept the visitors swarming. Yet, when I got to look at the work up close, I was like, “woah”. The sky is what got me. It’s made up of tiny, visible, brushstrokes that all come together to create a swirling sky filled with luminous stars and a radiant moon. Somehow, with the sky being the main focus, the small picture gave me a great sense of the never-ending expanse of the actual sky.
photos: Wikipedia, style.com
In terms of fashion, the swirls are not dissimilar to the way that certain fabrics interact with a person’s moving body. This is seen in many of the pieces that Rodarte has done for Spring 2012, and the actual design of The Starry Night shows up on more than one piece; from using the painting as a pattern, to just following the color scheme. Color was very important to the sisters in creating this collection. Yet, there wasn’t a direct line of inspiration from van Gogh to the clothes. It started with the colors used in the illustrations of the Disney movie Sleeping Beauty, which the sisters thought were very similar to the colors that van Gogh chose to employ when he was painting. The sisters then developed an interest in the color relationships in his works, especially that of ochre yellow combined with sea foam green. Normally, yellow is not the most endearing of colors, yet the sisters found that in van Gogh’s paintings it was very accessible and pleasing to look at, especially due to its inter-
action with the green. From this they produced dresses in the patterns of his Sunflowers series of paintings, as well as other ensembles. With the color and patterns aside, the structures of the pieces are reminiscent of old Hollywood as well as dresses from a “prom on acid”, as two of the spectators at the fashion show remarked. There was a strong sense of movement, especially considering the lightness of the dresses and the creases that some of the fabrics would create when the model moved. In this sense, the direct combination of Vincent van Gogh’s work with the world of fashion provides a physical representation of the notion that concepts, ideas, and just things in general are recycled over time. His works have found a new way of communicating with society, in that they have been given a new life through their application to the Rodarte Spring 2012 Collection. This then allowed the two sisters to simultaneously communicate through their art as well. Like art inception.
Featured Artist: Mary-Evelyn Farrior by Samantha Cheung
photos by Mariya Bashkatova
I nearly put the word artist in quotations, as I am sure that the word embarrasses Mary-Evelyn a bit. The ever-humble and sweet sophomore from Tampa, Florida is a true creative soul—she paints, does fashion and graphic design, and has innumerous awesome pet projects. She is the Design Editor of The Independent and a Classics major. As a student involved in the sciences, this all blows my mind. It is as if Mary-Evelyn is from another world here at Brown. The wide range of work she presented me with astounded me, and as she
spoke, I found myself wondering: how could anyone possibly come up with these ideas? Why does she create all of these things? What does “art” even mean to her? “Art is a personal function. It just makes me happy. It’s something I do for myself and not really for other people to see it,” she explained. “I make stuff to look good—that’s what I do in design. I can’t tell you that there’s a reason for why something looks one way or another. I just do what looks best in the end.” I think it is important to note here that, as even Mary-Evelyn
says herself, it takes a degree of bravery to admit that her work is meant to simply look good in the end, as it is easy to invent meaning for artwork if one is so inclined. She has an outlook on art that I very much agree with, saying that a “big factor of viewing art is the sense of believing, of having faith” that it has a deeper meaning behind it, “but on another level, art can function as just being aesthetically pleasing.” Mary-Evelyn believes in “art as an indicator of a lot of things, but at some point, paint splatter is just what it is.” Some of Mary-Evelyn’s projects that I found particularly interesting involved epoxy, a chemical that can be used for hardening and preservation. In one case, she bought cheap stuffed animals and covered them in epoxy so that they kept their shape and looked like soft, normal plush toys, but were hard to the touch. In another, she covered a canvas with plaster and punched it from the back so that the plaster cracked. She then poured epoxy on top of the plaster-covered canvas so that it became a cracked surface that would never fall apart. When asked if being artistic related to the way she dressed, Mary-Evelyn surprisingly said no.
She is knowledgeable about fashion, currently applying for internships at Vogue and GQ Magazine, and feels that she can admire and recognize style and quality workmanship. However, she admits that is the sort of girl who you will probably find with ink stains on her shirt. With a critical eye, she will often say when shopping, “I want this, this, and this changed about this outfit, and then I’d buy it.” Perhaps to the more artistically inclined students at this school, the fact that Mary-Evelyn creates so many different things is not shocking. But to me, it’s refreshing and exciting to hear about someone making a cracked surface that never falls apart with epoxy simply because she wants to make something beautiful. Mary-Evelyn’s artwork reminds me to stop getting caught up in the future. It makes me want to make or do something just for the hell of it, to free myself of the limitations of practicality. --More of Mary-Evelyn Farrior’s work can be viewed at http://cargocollective.com/mary-evelynfarrior
stylists: Eve Blazo, Erin Schwartz photographer: Phoebe Neel models: Haruka Aoki, Julie Chien, Andrew Doty, Julian Francis Park, Kalau Almony, Ryan Riddick, Adeline Mitchell, Robert Sandler, Tracy Szatan, Chanelle Adams, Eli Cohen, Anna Muselmann. hair/makeup: Katherine James, Dani Grodsky