BIB + TUCK / JUSTIN ANTHONY NY / THE DEAN HOTEL CHANEL CROSS / DIIV / SLONK DONKERSON / DAN HURLEY
Goods and Services launched in September 2012 and represents emerging designers in the advanced contemporary category. We are looking for a team of energetic interns to assist the team during Fashion Week! This is a great opportunity to learn how a multi-line showroom works, meet buyers from all over the world and be introduced to the wholesale side of fashion. We currently represent the following brands: Apiece Apart Assembly New York Building Block Cardigan FRAME Denim Grey Ant Jonathan Simkhai Noam Hanoch OAK Tome
owroom h S C Y N s e c i rv Goods and Se rns! Seeking Inte
We are looking for interns who are: Team Players Eager to Learn Quick-thinking Individuals who can Multi-Task Positive and have a Great Work Ethic Knowledgeable in Fashion
Responsibilities include: Greeting Buyers and Assisting in Sales Appointments Merchandising and Organizing the Showroom Preparation of Sales Material for Account Executives Assistance with Product Knowledge Seminars and Trade Shows Researching and Visiting New Stores Sample Trafficking
We request a commitment of at least 3 days/ week. To Apply: Please send your resume and cover letter to email@example.com Please state â€œShowroom Internâ€? in the subject line.
Instagram. JustinAnthonyNY Facebook. Facebook.com/JustinAnthonyNY
Coming soon...Unhemmedâ€™s very own eShop! email us at firstname.lastname@example.org with your favorite blog and weâ€™ll build them a shop too!
Shop now on Monsieur Jerome, City Brewed & Blue Perk...more coming soon!
EDITORS-IN-CHIEF DOMINIK HALAS AND SALLY LUU Accessories/Beauty Amanda Beaudoin, Courtney Kobren Art Vitor Oliveira Business Vicky Ding, Catherine Gao DIY Marcy Huang Entertainment Caroline Bologna, Shannon Sotomayor Fashion Features Camille Coy, Quinn Li O'Shea Layout Design Anna Weyant, Grace Yoon Menswear Shavon Bell, JoVaun Holmes Music Editor Jason Mandel Social Media Editor Ana Col贸n Street Style Blair Huang Womenswear Sarah Bochicchio, Gizem Sabanci Web Editor Ragnar J贸nsson Photography Credits Cover David Weinberger Chanel Cross Matthew Cross Just How Smart Are You? Annie Hurley Street Style Blair Huang, Sabrina Chin, Sally Luu Couples Swap Blair Huang, David Weinberger, Sabrina Chin DIY Sabrina Chin Justin Anthony David Weinberger Contributors Jake Mason Moffett, Elizabeth Stand, Lynn Tachihara, Caroline Granoff Special Thanks Bib + Tuck, NMRKT, Justin Felizzari, Shoppe Pioneer, Goods and Services, The Dean Hotel, Slonk Donkerson, Dan Hurley, Chanel Cross, Alexandra Sepolem, Co-Op 87
UNHEMMED ISSUE I MARCH 2014
Dan hurley BiB + TuCk
Fashioning hasiDism lupiTa n’yongo Couples Diy genDer FluiDiTy JusTin anThony
new orleans DiiV
LETTER FROM THE EDITORS
This is not the Unhemmed you know. This is not your typical college fashion magazine. This is something new, something radical, something controversial, something critical, and something fueled with motion and drive. We are headed in a fresh direction, with a focus reaching beyond the campus and directly into the professional realms of fashion, art, and music. We strive for a publication that incites thought and excitement in the minds of our readers and colleagues. We seek to cross disciplines and cover that which is in the moment across the entire world. Our manifesto emphasizes youth, passion, professionalism, order, vision, sex and an obsession with perfection. We compromise for no one. Issue 1
Enjoy ISSUE I â€“ it is the result of much work, time, and hardship, but the beginning of something remarkable.
- DOMINIK H L S ND S LLY LUU -
CHANEL CROSS Luminous, organic, minimalist: three words that come to mind when viewing -
I live in Los Angeles and I don’t drive. I am madly in love with my pug. I am indecisive, spontaneous and curious. I perpetually observe, wander and have a strong sense of wonder. My identity could be described as monochromatic and minimalist. Exploring contemporary art galleries and museums makes me go batshit with excitement. I prefer: - cafes over bars - listening over talking - burritos over burgers - rain over heat - traveling over materialism - strolling over sports - dresses over pants - psychology over politics - acoustics over techno
For my personal work, I am constantly experimenting so commissioned graphite drawings. I begin with the client’s reference photograph and begin drawing by layering different weights of lead. My trick is that I don’t ever let my hand touch the paper, otherwise the graphite adheres to the oils on the paper and it can’t be blended. It looks like surgery when I work with all the tools and the mad expression on my face caused by the pressured accuracy. My best work doesn’t have a deadline because, for me, having the ability to step away from my work and come back to it with fresh eyes is vital.
desire to calm down while others challenge my patience.
I was very lucky to share the same minimal and fresh aesthetic with Dominik Halas and Sally Luu. We all communicated well and working closely alongside Dominik and I have a hard time talking about these events so I turn to Sally across the country was refreshingly successful. art for my outlet. Artists that inspire me: James Turrell, Chuck Close, Robert Irwin, Olafur Eliasson, Ernesto Neto, Anish Kapoor, Jean Michel Basquiat and Mark Rothko.
I majored in Art Practice. I found the most value in the honors course, having the opportunity to have my own studio and gallery space was the best learning experience.
the art world was full of rewarding opportunities. I jumped into a few gallery internships and discovered that my shyness couldnâ€™t allow me to morph into an eager and desperate salesperson. Galleries are having a hard time staying open, and artists arenâ€™t business people. Social skills weigh heavier than knowledge in these circumstances.
Staying motivated. Sleeping in when I struggled to fall asleep.
seeking stability and peace. Iâ€™d like to focus more on making installation and sculptural work in collaboration with my brother, Matthew. There is a sense of presence and plore. For me, sculpture and installation inhabit space and occupy reality in ways that two-dimensional art cannot.
appreciation for minimalist aesthetic while hybridizing I am interested in creating illusions that challenge perceptions and encourage the viewer to challenge their own. I think I am still too young of an artist to think about a legacy. No idea is ever complete.
JUST HOW SMART ARE YOU?
Smarter: An Interview with Dan Hurley
BY MARCY HUANG
e all know in every classroom in college you can look around and you know there are students that seem to learn the material almost effortlessly. They seem to just breathe it in, and they don’t seem to have to do incredible amounts of study. ... And then there are people who really struggle and who really have to sweat it out,” says Dan Hurley, a science journalist who has written for such publications as the New York Times, the Washington Post, and Neurology Today.
Hurley’s newest book Smarter: The New Science of Building Brain Power tackles the question on the minds of many students struggling in their Orgo classes: Can you make yourself smarter? kind of knowledge and intelligence that you go to school to obtain “the part of your intelligence that involves ability to learn, ability to follow things, novel problem solving.” It involves abstract reasoning and raw mental ability and up until very recently, scientists thought that no amount of work could change it. “What’s fascinating is that we all used to think that it was you were born with so much intelligence and you could either work hard or not work hard, but you couldn’t make yourself smarter. But now it turns out that there are absolutely things people can do to increase their basic intelligence.” So what if you could in fact make yourself smarter? What if with a little perseverance you could bump your IQ score up a few points? After all, aren’t smarter people more successful? As Hurley puts it, “If we take a person who’s really smart and really gifted and they work really hard, they’re going to get a lot further than
the person who’s less brilliant and also works hard. Working hard is an enormous part of it. It’s probably, 80% of it or something. It’s a big part of it, but your intelligence matters a lot.” Hurley’s book Smarter what would happen if a smart person attempted to make themselves smarter. With the investigative, skeptic eye of a journalist - and one already with an IQ in the 130s - Hurley delves into the world of building brain power with Armed with an initial Mensa IQ test, a brain scan, and a drive to seek the truth, Hurley goes through months of training to see if he can, in fact, inBut for someone who’s recent past has been so focused on taking tests to measure his intelligence, Hurley had a bit of a different academic history than one would imagine. Hurley started out as a self proclaimed “junior hippie,” enrolling as a teenager part of a movement in the late 1960s and early 1970s towards new thinking that Hurley attended, “There were no rules and there were no requirements and it was not accredited.” After realhe stayed, he dropped out after attending for his sophomore and junior years, studied for the SATs, obtained a GED, and went to Beloit College in Wisconsin.
“When I entered,” Hurley said, “I didn’t know if I wanted to be an artist or a musician or a writer, and by the end of high school I said okay I’m going to set aside art, and by the end of college I said okay I’m going to set aside music, and focus on writing, and so then I became a writer/journalist, and that’s what I’ve been doing ever since.” It was in college that his interest in thought started to shine through. “I didn’t study journalism, I didn’t study science. In college, I majored in English Composition and Philosophy, so basically you could call that a major in thinking and writing.” Slowly he began to focus his newfound career in journalisms towards writing about science. “I started writing for a neurology newspaper for the American Academy of Neurology, and I got assigned to do an article about research into drug treatments to improve the intellectual abilities of people with Down Syndrome, which is one of the leading causes of cognitive disability. ... One of the researchers was so interesting that I proposed a story to the New York Times about him, and they gave me the assignment and I wrote the article, and after the article came out - that’s like two and a half years ago basically then I scratched my head and I thought ‘Gee, I wonder if there’s any research on ways to improve the intellectual abilities of people who aren’t disabled, like, you know, other people.’
I kind of came upon this whole body of research that was very hot and .... decided there was a book in it.”
abilities. And there’s all these working memory games - there are tons of studies saying that they’re really useful, so basically I just looked at the science and And in this way, Smarter was born. saw what seemed to work and then did In Smarter, instead of just reporting those things.” about different studies regarding im- While playing the lute, however, may comes the guinea pig himself, training have been fun, Hurley’s other aspects of on working memory tests as well as rating. play the lute, and even using a nicotine patch. hausting and I felt proud of myself but I wouldn’t call it really fun. The com“Basically I went through and looked at where there is good science ... I went know it was fun to see myself getting and looked for what are the studies that better - it was like I felt like I was comare out there that really support things. peting with myself so that was cool - but ... I found out for instance that there’s it’s not anybody’s idea of ‘fun.’ ... But if a lot of evidence supporting nicotine, you’ve got a good competitive streak in you, it’s cool to see yourself improving nicotine patch. ... The really odd thing at these things that are really hard to do. about the nicotine patch was that I was It’s sort of like getting better at chess but using the lowest dose and I didn’t feel a without the fun of playing chess.” thing at all, I had forgotten that I had it on, and then at the end of the day on One of the working memory games that the days that I did have it on it seemed Hurley used was the Dual N-back task, like I had been more productive. I don’t a complicated test in which participants know if it was real or a placebo effect must hold multiple pieces of informa- tion in mind at a time. ing me.” There are two aspects to the Dual N“There’s a lot of studies saying physical back task: visual and auditory. In the visual aspect of the Dual N-back task, that getting out and moving and getting a tic-tac-toe looking board is presented
square on the upper right hand corner. In the easiest level of the task, the 1-Back task, the participant would need to inposition on the board as it was one trial ago. So, if on trial two the square again appeared on the upper right hand corner, the participant would press a button, but if the square was presented on the bottom left hand corner, the participant would mastery of the 1-Back level, the task gets harder with a 2-Back task. In a 2-Back task, a participant would indicate if the visual stimulus seen was presented in the same location on the board two trials ago. Likewise, once the participant has mastered 2-Back the number goes up to 3, then 4, and on. In the auditory aspect of the Dual N-Back task, the visual stimulus is accompanied by a letter - so in addition to seeing the would have to press a separate button if the letter “C” was announced again. As in the same fashion of the visual aspect of the trial, when the task increases to 2-Back the participant must press a button if the current trial’s letter matches the letter spoken two trials ago, and so on. Although the auditory and visual elements occur at the same time they are independent from one another - which is what makes the Dual N-Back task just so tricky. The participant has to remember information about the history of two different independent stimuli, simultaneously trying to match each visual or auditory piece of data to trials in the past. While at the end of the training Hurley’s IQ was raised only by one point, he did score measurably higher on Raven’s Matrices
his training. other idea he has for an upcoming book, saying “The one thing about intelligence is that there are smart people who do stupid things. Wisdom is kind of knowing what to do, and it’s far more elusive.”
Smarter seemingly effortlessly strikes the balance between a light read and a scien-
L: SARI AZOUT R: BIBLIOWICZ PHOTOGRAPHED BY WINNIE AU
t 8 a.m., Sari Azout, the Brown alum who cofounded the up-and-coming online consignment community met with Unhemmed Editors Camille, Sarah, and Quinn Li to discuss
Not to mention it’s sustainable! S A R A H “Bib and Tuck seems to have found a unique market in increasingly popular “barter” newly conscious mentality?” S A R I “The inspiration behind the idea came from how inspired I was with the whole notion of collaborative consumption; it’s this whole trend where people really are starting to
believe that access is much more important than ownership. And that manifests itself in many ways, you think about Air B&B and you think about Zip Car and Uber and it’s all about learning to appreciate what already exists instead of agonizing over what else you can buy. With clothes it’s really the same, the average consumer discards about 69 pounds of clothing every year, and if we can keep those clothes away ing a big step in reviving barter culture in a generative way for clothing. Q U I N N L I “Very Cool, that’s actually a great segway into what we’d like to ask you next, we’ve heard a lot about how consignment selling is very sustain-
S A R I
“We alWays say that delight begins With design.”
with the idea we wanted to make a solution for ourselves. We were 20-something girls, recent college grads who loved fashion but were on a budget. So we wanted to build a company and a service, which very much catered to a person who was in a similar situation to ourselves. We always say that delight begins with design. The website is designed to appeal to that kind of person. As far as pricing, you’ll ab-
would see on Asos or at Top Shop, and it’s very much meant to be a pleasing experience for the high-low girl.
S A R I Yeah, it’s very sustainable! I mean, a big part of what we’re doing in Bib and Tuck is educating our users because a lot of them are using us as a utility. They sell their clothes, they refresh their wardrobe
S A R A H Wow, yeah that is a good deal. So along similar lines, at the beginning
but it makes sense. But from an environmental perspective, making a garment requires about 700 gallons of water. The average woman only
S A R I “We launched exclusively because we wanted to make sure that we set the right tone. If you open up a website, from the get-go you have no control over the vibe of the site or the tone and what kinds of users
at least some of it, then you’re contributing to saving water and you’re contributing to can make used clothing a bigger part of the 300 billion dollar industry that surrounds garment production and consumption.
you maintained this feeling of exclusivity?
we were implementing the right quality control systems. It was our way of saying, “let’s do this slowly and see where it goes.” As it grew we felt that we had a stronger grip on the customer, so we opened it up and implemented a couple of quality control systems. We have a team of
U N H E M M E D helps pull everything together. Tell us a little more about the aesthetics of Bib and Tuck and the kind of people that use it. At least where I live, the consignment stores are more expensive than the normal stores, and they seem more directed at an older market. Bib and Tuck seems to have a lot of youngerlike-minded people. Do members often have similar styles?
on the website is authentic and “tuckable”. I think that draws users in. Our mantra is, “fewer better things”, and we want to make sure that our users are thinking in that way when building their online closet. We’re ion. We’ve managed to maintain that exclusive tone and we’ve also created a section called ”Live Feed” so you can really curate your own experience by following closets. The experience seems very personal.
C A M I L L E U N H E M M E D I was wondering, when you’re on the website it seems …I don’t know cool I guess. Everything seems to work within this certain framework. Even websites like Etsy which have a more toned aesthetic have so
S A R I That is what sets us apart: you won’t have to scroll through pages and
a discovery platform. At Bib and Tuck we hope that you get involved in
does guide everything we do.”
sions? Because I have this weird…hoarding tendency. The other day I was looking for something in my closet to Bib. And I even felt attached to that piece of clothing that I never ever wear. I felt like no not that I have to have that. Does it get easier? S A R I Ah, the hoarding tendencies. I really educated myself in terms of this industry and why this is important. A big part of what we do is try to a better home for them. I have this one-year rule, which is unless it’s like a piece that my great grandmother gave me, if I haven’t worn it in a year: It leaves my closet. And I think that once you adopt that philoso-
we try to provide some context to the clothes. U N H E M M E D
add more and more and not let go. For me, one thing comes in, one thing goes out. That’s the way that I’ve sort of managed my closet since I launched Bib and Tuck.
Sari B before, and we know that you guys have been friends for years, friendship? S A R I and friends that we were going to do this together, they were nervous. mean, I spend more time with Sari B than I do with my husband. But I think that it’s worked so well because we knew each other so well. For us work and play are the same, so we can go from talking about who’s getting married next week to talking about business. It’s nice we have a very transparent relationship. It’s important to have a good relationship with your business partner and Sari and I had already established that. In many ways I’d say that it’s actually less risky to go into business with a close friend. Q U I N N L I That’s nice, very cool.
U N H E M M E D Yeah I need to work on that. So, where do art and design come into play in Bib and Tuck? Do you feel like it’s a creative experience more than a business one? S A R I vision of how to create this experience. When you think about selling online – buying is very easy- but selling still sucks. Ebay is a hassle. Design is a really big part of how we thought we were going to solve the went to RISD – she’s phenomenal, she’s an artist and she’s extremely creative. She’s been an instrumental part of translating this vision that we had. Part of it is partnering up with very creative people and highlighting creative personalities. It’s a creative business I would say. We need to make sure that we make this a sustainable venture, we love what we’re doing and we want to continue to do that, but creativity does
guide everything we do. Often when you have problems on the product or content side it’s something that can be resolved creatively. We try to apply that creativity to everything that we do.
U N H E M M E D creative sensibilities and the ideas that led to Bib and Tuck?
S A R I Yeah we have male members, but I think the other thing is that we try to be very androgynous. We’ve featured the editor of Paper Magazine’s closet, who is a guy and has a really cool style; a lot of women would want to buy his clothes. So we try to tread lightly in establishing those barriers.
S A R I Absolutely. I think what Brown does really well is it really allows you to connect the dots and I think that my experience with market places – I
S A R A H
– if you combine that with a lot of the street style and creativity on campus. You get a vibe that the world is going in the direction of a sharing economy. Brown in many ways embodies those values. I remember
S A R I
like “that’s crazy who would ever buy used clothes.” But I told my grandparents and they said “Oh that’s great we used to do that when I was young.” I think that we’re going back in a modern way. Brown is all about environmental consciousness and disruption and innovation. Dismantling the traditional ways that we think of doing things. U N H E M M E D Bib and Tuck is mostly women’s wear. Do you forsee menswear becoming more prevalent on Bib + Tuck?
he or her. I want you to call me they” So it’s a very interesting notion, I think it’s very important to begin dismantling many of our thoughts on gender in fashion because ally fun and different. We’re trying to be controversial; we’re not scared of that. U N H E M M E D Great, cool.
S A R I We get that question a lot. I’d love to open a men’s section. But I think that for us we’re trying to go narrow and deep to capture this customer, and what’s we feel we’ve done that we’ll go into men’s. We don’t want to get distracted because it is a completely different market that requires a completely different set of tools. Every aspect of our website was so that you would for women. C A M I L L E Do you have any male members?
PHOTOGRAPHED BY WINNIE AU
F U N Q U E S T I O N S ! F U N Q U E S T IO N S ! AANNSSWWEERREEDD BBYY SSAARRI I AA
Who’s one designer that you love to hate? Well, I don’t know about hate, but I don’t endorse the names behind fast fashion
Favorite sustainable brand or designer? The Reformation. They’ve built a brand with a big focus on design, but also with a strong message.
I don’t like brands that try to hide their inhumane practices.
Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen.
Hate to love? Givenchy. I love them, but I can’t really afford much of their clothing. Proenza Schouler, Peter Pilotto.
Anne of Green Gables or Pippi Longstockings
Favorite designer? Alexander Wang, I don’t hate to love him.
Miley Cyrus, yes or no? I say no, Sari B says yes.
Who is your favorite artist? much about building art that bridges the digital and the non-digital.
Coke or Pepsi? Neither. Water is my drink of choice or tea.
Can you think of any funny experiences that you’ve had while you were working at Bib and Tuck?
What is the craziest thing you’ve ever purchased?
What’s one instagram you think everyone should follow?
If you were a piece of clothing what would you be? Probably shoes.
the city in the clumsiest of ways. That was funny for everyone watching, but pretty
It says in your bio that you approached Anna Wintour twice, can you tell us a little more about that? story is, I’m not afraid to talk to anyone!
ONE WORD ANSWERS Which dead celebrity would you bib and tuck? My grandmother
Austin Powers What’s one instagram you think that everyone should follow? Sari Azout! PHOTOGRAPHED BY WINNIE AU
If you were a piece of clothing what would you be? Can I be an accessory instead? I’d love to be a ring.
ANSWERED BY SARI B Consignment stores are often pretty expensive and seem to cater to older womof people use Bib and Tuck? Do members often have similar aesthetics/ styles? That’s exactly the problem with consignments stores, they are not approachable and appeal to an older audience. Bib + Tuck is meant for the modern, young woman who loves shopping but hates spending. She’s independent, creative, and not afraid to try something new. We aim to make second hand clothes cool and exciting again. Has Bib and Tuck affected the way you treat your possessions in your daily life? item I own as I know how much goes into making it.
Designer you love to hate? Juicy Couture -Hate to love? Alice & Olivia Favorite Artist? Daniel Arsham
Emily Schiff-Slater RISD 2014 Billy Lambert
Riley Ryan-Wood 2017
Araceli Kim 2015
Kevin Dhali 2016
Sienna Vann 2017
Elvina Zhang 2017
Jake Moffett 2015
Stefania Gomez 2017
Blair Huang 2015
Shirley Leung 2015
Sean Scott 2016
Abbie Galloway 2016
Mo Hy 2014
Maria Fernanda Hernandez Tort 2017
Fashioning hasidism Jake Mason Moffett
jhe spirit of Israel is just dawning; merchants proudly display fruits of the Mediterranean. A woman in a long denim skirt proudly swats cats away from her figs. Long cloaks of black shatter the eternal row of Jerusalem sandstone. 6:00 in the morning—Tuesday in July. It’s chilly now, but by 15:00 the sun will be tangential to the Shuk and Ben Yehuda Street, with promises of the dry heat that Jerusalem is known for. Tourists haven’t yet begun to jet in and out of souvenir shops, that swear only they have the best deals on yarmulkes. There are no Birthright groups being told how long they have to shop in Israel’s most famous market. The people out this early are the heartbeat of Israel. They are the children of Holocaust survivors, the brothers and sisters of reformed and Orthodox Jews, and the Arabs with whom there are eternal squabbles. Some are older than Israel itself. In the fashion world, emulation is what encourages us as consumers to fit into a larger group of people. Does wearing studs mean we listen to rock music of the 80s? Does dyed black hair mean we are “scene?” Emulation drives our need to fit into subcategories, even if it isn’t an active choice. Rooted deep within Israeli culture are the different sects of Judaism that make up more than threequarters of the 8 million plus population. Within the sects, different modes of dress employ emulation in a grander scheme of distinction. Fashion in Jewish culture plays a much different role in society than traditional Western cultures, although there are comparable crossovers between
Bezalel academy oF arT and design annual Fashion sho
MANY OF THE DESIGNS INCORPORATE MODERATE RELIGIOUS SIGNIFICANCE.
the two. Who in Western society determines when mustard is no longer an “in color?” Surely active decisions must be made to determine when camouflage is faux pas. A main driver of the fashion industry (and other industries with a short changeover rate—tech companies, fad diets, real estate) is the trickle down system. When designers create/recycle their products (for example, studs in 2012) the first people to publicly wear it are celebrities or other media socialites.. The trend suddenly appears all over red carpets and eventually magazines get a hold of it.
The consumer class begins to see the trend, and cheaper department stores produce the trends, such as H&M, Urban Outfitters, and Forever 21. Once typical consumers begin to wear the trends, more prominent fashion moguls want to disassociate from the people they consider themselves above. This trickling down of fashion drives designers to create new looks. As fashions come and go, obsolescence yields new trends season after season. There are no cultures immune from the ever-changing rules of dress. In a sect of Judaism based off hierarchy and esoteric tradition, the strict fashion customs of the Hasidic Jews rein-
There are no cultures immune from the everchanging rules of dress.
force the social identities and religious construct within the community. Remaining relatively stagnant since the mid18th ideals and practices, the Hasidic fashion and design of the body reflects the strong uphold of traditions that do not evolve with time. You’ll see this if you spend a week in Jerusalem. At first glance, it appears all the women on the bus are in long denim skirts and striped blouses. Their hair is covered in headscarves that range from solid black to floral. The men are dressed in black. However, in Israel it’s not so simple.. Just as Chanel is superior to Urban Outfitters, beaver fur makes a larger statement than wool. On the bus ride home from Har Hotzvim, a techbased district in Jerusalem, I’m sardined into a seat while being brushed by the long, black wool overcoats by men with payos (the curls on the sides of a Hasidic man’s face). It’s almost 30 degrees Celsius (86F), unfathomable how one could wear a coat in this weather, let alone any clothing at all. My
short sleeve Urban Outfitters button down is clinging to me just looking at this man. What drives my ignorance is my prejudice, one that stems from Western fashion culture. Isn’t it that what we wear dictates who we are? Shouldn’t form supersede function? In Malcom Barnard’s Fashion, Clothing, and Meaning he states “…fashion, clothing, and dress constitute signifying systems in which a social order is constructed and communicated.” This may be accurate for a western city life, where sweatpants say you’re poor, a Chanel bag says you’re in, and wedged sneakers say you’re confused. These prejudices aren’t by any means accurate, but they aren’t far fetch either. Although wide generalizations, they are definitely not far from the truth. Fashion fits more with the westernized world than here in the Middle East. Hasidic fashion is exempt from these traditional rules (as are many religious modes of dress).The fashion, clothing, and dress within Hasidism do not in fact institute social order, but con-
It is illegal in Israel to photoshop anyone in print ads or commercials unless specifically stated on the ad.
versely, the social order (in conjunction with the patriarchal nature of stricter sects of Judaism,) determine who wears what. Seemingly, Jewish fashion in Israel (and other parts of the world with high rates of Judaism) is the true antithesis of Barnard’s theory of clothes and meaning. The man on the bus wears his wool overcoat. His outfit’s religious (function) triumphs over the fact that it is scorching (form). His fashion system is by no means wrong, just untraditional in the eyes of a western boy. The materials of Hasidic clothing hold unique and often biblical significance. Rekels, the long black coats that Haredi men wear, are made of worsted wool. Bekishes - the double breasted, knee-length black coats worn by men for seven days after their wedding - are specifically made of silk because Jewish law prevents shaatnez (the wearing of wool and linen in one garment.) This is comparable to common “faux pas’” in western dress. Would one combine plaid and polka dots? There’s no religious artifacts backing that disaster up, but there needn’t be. Why then, would one not make the Rekels out of something lighter, such as linen? Or cotton? If dyed black, they would both offer the same coverage as the wool overcoat.
Be mistaken not, nothing in fashion is an unconscious decision.
The answer is simple: we cannot. For the same reason that on Passover we eat reclined, and on all other nights we east sitting up, As Tevye in Fiddler on the Roof might say: Tradition! In Fashion and Eroticism, Elizabeth Wilson discusses material changes by saying “Various kinds of linen shift had been worn for centuries; they protected the bodies of the rich from
the stiff, scratchy materials of which clothing was often made, and at the same time protected the sumptuous costumes from the dirt of the bodies they adorned.” What Wilson overlooks is the chance that some fabrics, although they aren’t the most comfortable, do have a strong cultural and religious significance. Clearly worsted wool Rekels are not ideal for the sweltering Jerusalem heat, but in Hasidic culture, the strong biblical reason-
ing triumphs over a desire for comfort. The Hasidic wardrobe and the meaning behind the certain individual pieces haven’t changed for nearly three centuries, which is very unique to fashion. The Kolpik, a traditionally Slavik brown fur hat - which is nearly a foot tall and a foot and a half in diameter- takes on different meanings for different members of Hasidim. When unmarried children wear the hat, it means that it is
Shabbat (Friday sunset to Saturday sunset). When grown men wear the hat, it means that in addition to the wearer being a Hasidic Rabbi, it is either Chanukkah, Tu B’Shevat, Rosh Chodesh — three different Jewish Holy Days. The meaning lies within the actual garment itself, since the wearer doesn’t decide when he would wear it, and in theory the hat decides when it will be worn. What the hat means to convey changes depending on the time of year, and has been the same since the century. Kolpiks the are most expensive Hasidic item of dress (between $3,0005,000) and are made specifically with brown fur in lieu of black fur because the former means they are Hasidic kolpik, and the latter would be indicative of Polish dynasties. On my bus ride home - as I’m being brushed by a few more wool coats - I notice some traditionally dressed orthodox women wearing some patterns that I wouldn’t have seen a few days earlier. In the 20th century, there has been a shift to a stronger focus on the body, and an expression of self. The Hasidic women have slightly shifted in this way, wearing more expressive outfits than in the past. Although colors are generally forbidden - especially bright red - it is common for women to experiment with black
and white patterns, most notably stripes. This has lead to a slight break in the community, where in terms of the social construct of the society, the pattern-clad women will be seen as much more neoorthodox than their conservative counterparts. To an outsider, myself included at the beginning of my months in Israel, Hasidic wear might border on the skirts of ludicrous. Not weather appropriate, perhaps not trendy, and even sometimes not functional; their look is certainly not going to appear on a runway anytime soon. However, that is the beauty of Hasidic fashion. It’s untainted and untouchable nature shield it from the runway, and it can be preserved for its original spiritual intentions. Such as “tribal print” – institutionalizing and discrediting its original creator – Urban Outfitters did not in fact create tribal print. Tribes did. Luckily my bus ride has ended, and I can go to my room, blast the air conditioning, and throw on my tank top and cotton pajama pants. Be mistaken not, nothing in fashion is an unconscious decision. You don’t need to wear a long wool coat in Jerusalem. The man wearing that coat is probably thinking that about your oversized sweater you thrifted at Savers.
logna By Caroline Bo
Lupita NyoNgâ€™o, it girLs, and the
“But beyond the refined side to her persona, it was her embodiment of “effortless cool” that caught the world’s attention.”
glione’s famous The Book of the Courtier,
star Lupita Nyong’o
the author defines sprezzatura as “a cer-
is everywhere. The
tain nonchalance, so as to conceal all art
Kenyan actress fills the pages of fashion
and make whatever one does or says ap-
magazines, provides conversation fodder
pear to be without effort and almost with-
for people all over the world, and seems to
out any thought about it.” He goes on to
be every producer’s new pick to star in ev-
describe it the courtier’s ability to display
ery upcoming movie. On Oscar night, view-
“an easy facility in accomplishing difficult
ers and critics alike buzzed with praise and
actions which hides the conscious effort
admiration for her elegance and grace. But
that went into them.” Indeed, sprezzatura
beyond the refined side to her persona, it
is a kind of spontaneity, liveliness, and pa-
was her embodiment of “effortless cool”
nache that seems to be effortless, but that
that caught the world’s attention. Nyong’o
façade of ease actually masks all of the
stole the show when she danced with Phar-
effort and exertion behind it. And sprez-
rell during his live performance of “Happy”
zatura is certainly not limited to its Renais-
and then she stole it again with her beauti-
fully emotional acceptance speech. Some critics attribute her not-so mysterious pow-
Despite what many fashionistas might
er to her “flawlessness” and have dubbed
want the public to believe, there’s no such
her a fresh-faced “ingénue.” Others simply
thing as effortless style. If someone man-
credit her with the unwavering ability to
ages to put together a fantastic outfit in un-
“slay us.” A few even call it sprezzatura.
der five minutes, it’s because they’ve spent years cultivating their style, learning about
Sprezzatura is more than just an Italian
fashion, and shopping for great clothes.
word that’s fun to say. In Baldassare Casti-
Effort has gone into their chic appearance,
“If someone manages to put together a fantastic outfit in under five minutes, it’s because they’ve spent years cultivating their style”
whether or not it was immediate,
thing look easy, because trying too
and the fashionista’s success in hid-
hard is the opposite of cool. Does
ing this calculated exertion is the
that idea sound familiar? Clearly, the
power of sprezzatura.
It-girl appellation connotes a certain sprezzatura. From Hollywood
While actress Lupita Nyong’o may
It girls like Lupita Nyong’o and her
have spent more time perfecting her
predecessor Jennifer Lawrence to
craft than researching fashion de-
indie rock It girls like St. Vincent, it’s
signers, she has also perfected the
clear that mastering the art of effort-
art of making her wave of red car-
less cool is the key to mass appeal.
pet style destruction look easy. And perhaps it’s this feat that has earned Nyong’o the label of “It” girl from entertainment reporters and the social media peanut gallery. And as fleeting and seemingly arbitrary as that label may be, the actress does seem to embody it. Model, media personality, and former “It’ girl Alexa Chung wrote a how-to book of sorts for her aspiring fellow “It” girls, under the comically non-evocative title It. In the book, Chung stresses the importance of making every-
COUPLE CLOTHES SWAP
PAWS SEHTOLC ELPUOC
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Betty Heeso Kim, 21
Class of 2015.5
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Dylan Cole-Kink, 19
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Atlanta, Georgia Alysse Austin, 21
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Chola Vista, California
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Millburn, New Jersey Justine Maher, 20
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Chappaqua, NY Molly Schulson, 20
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Jonny Abrams, 20
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Look 1: Draped Scarf Top
YOU WILL NEED:
Model: Alexandra Sepolen
Three scarves, needle and thread. (Optional: hair ties or rubber bands.)
Flip your top over (so, in this case, the cream scarf is on the bottom and the pink scarf is on the top) and place it on top of another scarf, lining edges up with one another. This other scarf will serve as the back piece of your top.
Lay both scarves on top of one another, paying attention to which color your placed on top and on bottom. In this case, the cream scarf was placed on top and the pink scarf on bottom. Sew the two scarves together on the bottom edge. Turn the scarves inside out at the seam so you cannot see your stitching.
Sew halfway up the sides of the scarves so the back piece is now attached to the front piece.
Begin to separate the scarves, now attached, gently pulling one of the scarves to one side and the other to the other side. You should start to visualize the basic shape of the front of your top.
Take the hair ties off the tops of each scarf and decide how thick you want the straps of your garment to be. We chose about 4 inches.
We recommend using hair ties to tie off the tops of each scarf.
Fold and pleat each side of the front of the top, sewing them to each of the sides of the back piece of the scarf to make the straps. Flip the piece right side out, and youâ€™re done!
Wrap the scarf around the bottom of your head, and tie a not on top.
Look 2: Headband Fold in two opposite corners so that they meet in the middle.
Repeat the above step to make a double knot. Fold those two sides in again, so er down the centerfold.
Repeat the last step until each strip on either side of the centerfold is as wide as youâ€™d like your headscarf to be. Slide the scarf around on your head so that the knot is on the bottom. Gently twist the ends in, securing with a bobby pin on either side. Voila!
Fold the scarf over the centerfold one last time to create a seamless headband.
New Age Self-Portraiture By Sarah Bochicchio
a human rather than a mannequin. A
you do something different. Everyone can take a picture of themselves and send it to others, but it won't stand out unless you make it stand out.
the pop music of photography. They may not be high quality, but they can be very amusing. -Quinn Li Oâ€™Shea
In my (expert) opinion, a high requires wide eyes, slightly pouted lips, and good lighting. And in my (expert) opinion, I consistently achieve all three of these qualities with every snap of my iPhone.
It is not an exaggeration when I say that my work is screenshotted on the daily. Maddie Johnson
“The inherent shame that some of mediated when placed in the context of intentional self-shaming, and #throwbackthursday is a wonderful scapegoat through which to do so.”
BILL NYE last semester. No shame. None.” Misha Noorani
this more shameful. Like I have something I hide. But hey, look at them macarons.”
“Me and a turkey leg. No further explanation necessary.” Misha
In an industry that is often criticized for its unrealistic and exclusive representations of beauty, it’s important to recognize pivotal moments in its ever-evolving quently served as a platform for social change, the past few years mark a particularly unique time in its compelling histoder, gender nonconforming, and gender advertising campaigns is getting longer and longer - and everyone’s paying at-
ty that makes up its own rules as it goes -
Supermodels Andrej Pejic and Saskia and women’s wear, and both have made it fortunately coined, has caused some worry that the fashion world would sensationalize the trans community and do more harm
have erupted on the Internet faster than we look at gender in fashion is changing, and while makeup-less women in suits rocking cropped short hair have come in and out of style more than a few times, fashion “gender bend;” it’s more com-
attention, though on a side note trans is not gay and the slogans do nothing to raise -
el Erika Linder, (who’s been compared to a young Leonardo DiCaprio!) wittily tackled the question of her gender on
featured partially nude and draped with fabric in an artful women’s wear ad for
And perhaps it’s this assertion and self-possession of their style that makes
just posing in the clothes; they’re expressing who they are away from the
fresh perspective on fashion and beau-
Not to mention her feature in Vogue last year (which is quite the accomplishment at age 36 no matter which gender suits you), where she discusses her unique position and how designers and models have begun to blur
Fashion is starting to feel that beauty transcends gender boundaries and the rest of the world seems inclined to agree with them. of websites and images labeled “fuck yeah Andrej Pejic,” or “fuck yeah Erika Linder” male nor female) casually explained her situation; “I guess professionally It’s new, it’s an important step in the right leather jacket take on a new sensuality when they’re on Erika Linder, and Andrej Pejic posing topless in a delicately embroiA campaign featuring striking black and white photographs of Pejic and Linder (who dated by the way, as if the chemistry in the photographs alone wasn’t enough to give it away) has been posted on hundreds of blogs and has found its place among
and have a sort of “Battle of the Sexes”, the photos boldly revisit traditional gender power
Lim tuxedo pants paired with a which features a faux skinny tie detail creating a sort of disheveled
holding hands with her with the -
portray them as well as the clothes tractive and wear wildly expen-
the waist and looser at the legs, tured with family members, partcoming in at the ankles for a skinphotographs are excerpts from homage to A l e x a n d e r images feel deeply personal and sensitive and the interviews allow unisex drop the viewer a glimpse into their introusers from the partnered with the National Center
A homage to Alexander Mcqueen’s unisex drop trousers new trouser the from the 80s brings “boyfriend to a and 90s, this pant” haute-levnew trouser of her solo brings the shots, Pejic wears a “boyfriend black, oversized asympant” to a m e t r i c a l Haute Hiphaute-level. with a plunging neckline and a layered chunky jeweled necker-dress has padded shoulders, which do seem to be making a season (in black or pastels of for online shopping, the series of photographs have a decidedly artistic quality to them and embody Linder’s laidback sensu-
ters, Sons & Daughters, features models, some professional and video, personals interviews, pho-
open and empowered in their inder man who has often been recognized as a positive role model
I think that’s the best thing about I t clear this going be whole
’ s that isn’t to the sto-
change can be suwho came up with the idea for
“I was exqui-Sisters, Sons sitely aware &e xDaughters, plained intenthat in the the tions of the last decade, campaign in the L.G.B. “I was exquiaware communities sitely that in the have made last decade, extraordi- communities made nary advanc- have extraordies, and the nary adand transgender vances, the transgender comcommunimunity has not shared ty has not in that progshared in of the that progress.most campaigns
“The Experiences I went through made me into the guy I am today. I think that’s the best thing about this: I am the man I want to be”
Even the inclusion of long wavy hair and psychedelic colors in mainstream ion were a sign of the social and political chang-
changes may seem small and -
we’re making connections between art, fashion, style, and our id and transgender models is an expression of this new intercon-
featuring transgender and gender we express gender and identity is evolving, to quote Casey Legintentioned, this campaign is important because it gives the models a voice and makes the effort to
JUST IN AT THE DEAN written by JoVaun Holmes and Shavon Bell photos by David Weinberger
JUSTIN ANTHONY NY EXCLUSIVE CAPSULE COLLECTION FOR UNHEMMED AT THE DEAN HOTEL
t what point did you consider the possibility of creating your own fashion
totally modern.” I’m a New Yorker who has family throughout the world. I need clothing that is somewhat chic-elegant but keep me functional considering I’m always on the move.
line? As a fledgling brand, did you
What trends in street fashion have you been most
find it difficult to acquiesce into
struck by, and how do you see such trends influ-
the industry of fashion, and if so, has
encing the trajectory of high street and formal
such difficulty persisted in moving the
forward after gaining notoriety?
Fashion has always been a passion of mine but it occurred to me about two years ago, in 2012, that I should create my own line. I come from a family of “go-getters” so they supported me 100%. I was lucky to be pointed in the right direction by my parents, who were once in manufacturing. Being creative but business minded is beyond crucial while cre-
I love color blocking, contrast sleeves and just plain CHIC GARMENTS. I think it’s an attitude that I am inspired by more then something physical. The idea of a guy dressing COOL and being FUNCTIONAL is something so rare these days. I see guys in NYC all decked out in cool stuff but they can’t move like a normal person because they are so uncomfortable. I said to myself I need to do something functional and elegant but modern at the same time.
on quickly given my background.
Who or what would you say is your most profound aesthetic muse and why is that? The ideas of elegance and function embody the aesthetic I want my brand to have. I think a man should always be on his “A- Game” when it comes to fashion but it must be functional as well. I’m not saying “let’s wear a tux to the supermarket” but I want to see the future of menswear become something elegant yet functional for any man’s lifestyle.
Many of your garments tread the boundary between business-casual and street-wear. How did you con-
What was the creative process behind the creation of this collection? Feel free to elaborate on any aspect from the inception of the core ideas to the creation of the garments themselves. Everyone will probably get tired of me saying this but FUNCTIONAL, ELEGANT and MODERN. That was the whole creative process. Walking down NYC and seeing corporate guys but next to them, street kids wearing hats and crazy sneakers. I said to myself there has to be a way to modernize this. Take the NYC streets and put it into a collection. But always thought the words “FUNCTIONAL, ELEGANT and MODERN”
ceive of this blend? In what situations do you envision your garments primarily being worn? This was my main reason I created my brand. I love elegance and something serious, but street wear and sportswear are my roots. I said to myself “I need to make some clothing that’s elegant and functional but
What are you aspiration for the future of the Justin Anthony brand, both in short and long term. Modernize Menswear in an elegant BUT functional way
“Frames” Annalia Sunderland Pen on paper
“Eiffel Tower” Francisco Oliveira Digital Photography
“Turbulent Take Off” Francisco Oliveira Digital Photography
“Writer” Kate Silzer Charcoal, 11”x12”
“Dead End” Kate Silzer Digital Photography
Untitled Karoliina Kase Digital Photography
“Curtains” Kate Silzer Pastel
Untitled Karoliina Kase Digital Photography
Untitled Karoliina Kase Digital Photography
“Pollen” Annalia Sunderland Pen on paper
“Batneurology” Rebecca Wojciechowicz
“Frost” Kate Silzer Digital Photography
“Bones” Rebecca Wojciechowicz Digital Photography
Not sure what to do for your long weekend? How about some live music in a dark jazz club? A peaceful stroll in the historical French Quarter? Biking to the Audubon Park and bathing in the warm southern sunshine? A night of adventure on Bourbon Street? One of the
THE END OF THE WORLD
ACCORDING TO SLONK DONKERSON By Jason Mandel Interview Transcribed by Lynn Tachihara Photographs by Dominik Halas
Parker Silzer (Brown ’12), Dylan Vanderhoek, and Zack O’Brian are the three constituents of borderline hair metal act Slonk Donkerson. They capture all the best things of 80’s hair metal inspired rock music while leaving behind the serious masculinity that it is normally associated with. Slonk Donkerson just released its debut EP titled “Watching Every Channel at Once” on Black Bell Records. We spent part of an afternoon with them in Greenpoint, Brooklyn at the renowned record store Co-Op 87.
JM PS JM PS
Have you guys been doing any festivals lately? No, not since Nrmal, but we are actually going to SXSW soon. What shows do you have booked down there? Right now we have the Blackbell, Sailor Jerry Show that should be really cool since it has a ton of our friends playing like Team Spirit. Do you have a name for the new record? We have some idea. It’s loosely based on this world that Dylan and I came up with, but we have yet to settle on a name.
for, but leaning towards lots of stars and motorbikes angels and glittering casino lights and rock n roll. We are appropriating hard rock clichés for the present day. Not a lot of bands are doing that today. It’s almost in an uncool zone for a lot of people.
ZO DV JM DH DV
heavy guitar sounds. This happened in a time when there was an opposition to punk music, something which was universally always cool. But we want to have that hard rock over-the-top hair metal genre done again, but in a totally different way. I want something different than what some of those people did, It’s interesting you guys can channel that fashion-wise, especially with your video for “Watching Every Channel at Once”. That one is a throwback to the 1980’s-1990’s. The music video is based off of Videodrome. That’s such a great movie! Did you guys make the video yourselves? I directed it, although Danny Krug did camera work and helped out with a few other things.
DH PS DH PS DH JM DV JM DV PS JM DV PS PS ZO JM PS JM PS
What was the meaning behind the song? I like taking it literally because I watch a lot of TV and have a lot of other things going on at the same time. What do you like to watch? other day, and I also like to watch Mary Hartman. Yeah, that was referenced in the song. I’m just coming out of a severe X Files addiction. I wasn’t allowed to watch that growing up. That and The Simpsons were banned. Why was that? My mom just thought everything was Beavis and Butt-Head. Then of course it became your favorite show! What were you guys up to last night? We were working on guitars for our record. We are about 90% done with guitars now. We are so close, we can taste it. Yeah, it’s great. I don’t like all the pressure being on me. It’s been a pretty good and laid back process of recording. We don’t feel like we are being rushed or wasting money at all. Which studio are you recording in? Ayad’s studio in Greenpoint. That’s awesome. It’s in this shared practice space and really anything goes in there. I love recording studios. I’ve interned at them and work at a place that’s basically a recording studio for music for TV, but it’s good to be able to be in a recording studio where we can make a mess without worrying about everything. That is so not what you do in actual recording studios because everything is expensive and luxurious. It’s great being in a situation where you can relax and let loose.
DH PS DV PS
DH PS DV PS
things with this record. It’s less rigid than the three-piece punk thing we’re doing now. We are very true to trying to make a record that matches what we can do live. How did you guys come up with your name? We’ve told people but I don’t think they actually believe us whenever we tell them the truth. Band names suck as a whole so this is our kind of alternative. We were sitting around once trying to record ourselves think of a good name for a band. Somehow, we happened upon Slonk Donkerson. We were like “wow, that’s so much better than having an actual cool name.” Do you remember any of the other names you had in mind? No. Fuck bands with cool names. It doesn’t have any associations and it’s fun to say. I think it indicates that we’re not taking this too seriously, well besides the music itself. Parker, what was it like transitioning from Brown to being a professional musician? I feel like I got very lucky with everything. I graduated and we all decided to move here to Brooklyn and do music.
what everything was about. I ended up interning for Todd Patrick with Jason and working at 285 Kent. It was kind of the right place right time. They were hiring people and so I got involved while I was also working for a composer, doing some part time and interning at another recording
things hoping that one of them would turn into a job. I felt if I was everywhere at once then I would meet people. I wasn’t really making any money but I was having a very good time. I learned a lot about how everything works and then eventually, it led to a full time job being a sound design engineer for commercials. The company I work for now does a lot of internal stuff for Google and their projects. We did some original music and voice work for this cartoon show on HBO with these metal head dudes which was pretty fun. We also get a lot of pharmaceutical advertisement work. Do you enjoy it? It’s great to learn about making and recording music all day, every day, and just get better at it. Even when what we’re doing is not the kind of thing that I am most interested in, it helps me get better at things like networking with new people. Building connections like that is vital in this kind of a scene. Your band has to be okay for people to take you seriously. I would just go to parties alone and not know anyone, which I wasn’t really used to doing, but I would just meet people and talk. Eventually someone grabs your arm and says “I met you when we were in high school once I almost feel too comfortable sometimes. I feel like I want to go to another city and try it again. That being said, it’s pretty intoxicating when everyone knows who you are.
DIIV IS Z. COLE SMITH, DEVIN RUBEN PEREZ, ANDREW BAILEY, AND COBLY HEWITT. THESE PHOTOGRAPHS WERE TAKEN IN THE EARLY HOURS OF JANUARY 1, 2013, AT THE STORIED AND NOW CLOSED VENUE 285 KENT, IN THE HEART OF WILLIAMSBURG. THEIR AUDIENCE WAS FULL OF YOUNG BLOOD AND ENERGY, DANCING AND CRASHING INTO ONE ANOTHER. THE SET CONCLUDED WITH DIIV’S ANTHEM, DOUSED, AND SMITH’S RITUAL SCREAM, CAPTURED AND PRESERVED BELOW.
PHOTOGRAPHS AND TEXT BY DOMINIK HALAS
ISSUE I features an exclusive menswear shoot at The Dean Hotel with Justin Anthony NY, interviews with Slonk Donkerson, Bib + Tuck, and more...