UNHEMMED October 2012
UN mj batson & april zhang editors-in-chief rachel watson victor ha & tiffany mendoza layout editor fashion editors vivian carlson & audrey cho & madeleine luckel elaine kuckertz fashion features editors street style editor dominik halas marissa petteruti menswear editor beauty editor mo hy marissa bergman do-it-yourself editor entertainment editor chelsea english & catherine gao art editors
lauren chanen layout assistant
lily sykes ashlyn koga web assistant web beauty editor becca gevertz web fashion features editor
dani grodsky web health & fitness editor
liz kelley & valery scholem heidi dong business managers photography coordinator
model: Brenton Stokes photographer: MJ Batson
LETTERS FROM THE EDITORS
THERE’S SOMETHING IN THE WATER October was a month of serious transitions. The beginning of school haze slowly wore off and schoolwork has for sure set in. More work means less time and more stress, but in the midst of it all, almost every new person that I have come across seems to have that Brown glow (and no I’m not referring to anything from Body Chem). The “I’M REALLY BUSY AND ABOUT TO PASS OUT BUT SOMEHOW I’M STILL SO HAPPY!!” glow. This month I saw my first show at the PW (and for those of you who don’t know, it’s that building over there somewhere but not really that far away) which was quite good (despite my natural aversion to bursting out into unnatural choreographed song and dance). I also had a chance to interview two new student bands UP ARROW and ANIMAL ESQUIRE (video interviews on the web soon!) who also had that Brown glow. Their passion for music and desire to perform was refreshing to see. As for Unhemmed, in this issue we tried to push ourselves and see how Unhemmed could go further. We have our first coverguy (Alex) and thanks to photographer Josh, we had our first all film photoshoot! The photo team explored the power of Rorshach and Unhemmed went trans-continental with an update from Paris by the lovely Caroline Bologna. We are also hosting our first guest speaker in the Unhemmed Speaker Series this month (as well as an arts & culture event for musicians). Pretty much we’re busy, you’re busy, life’s busy. But no worries, we secretly don’t hate it. Idle hands are the devil’s handiwork right? So, I hope you enjoy the issue (and check out the website)! Seriously. But if you don’t, ehh. Either way, I just want to let you know Brown looks good on you. You’re glowing. Best,
THIS IS WHERE IT’S AT It’s November already, and as a senior, thinking about the future is all I do. But enough of that – of course the end of the year will come eventually, but it’s only November – it’s all about the present. Like what you’re doing now – reading the new Unhemmed. That’s where it’s at. Any lingering days of summer are long gone now; it’s officially fall, and though the weather can never seem to decide what it should be during this transition between summer and winter, I expect you and your wardrobe are not having the same existential crisis. It might not be as easy as throwing on a dress and sandals, but dressing for fall is decidedly more fun. The boots, jackets, scarves, and giant grandma sweaters (my personal favorite!) beat flip flops and unbearable heat (and the inevitable sweat) any day. My favorite place to find giant grandma sweaters and other essential fall clothing items is the Salvation Army, especially on Wednesdays, when most of the store is half-off. I am a huge fan of thrifting, so naturally I was excited about this month’s cover shoot. Menswear editor and fellow thrift store enthusiast Dominik Halás found the clothes at three nearby thrift shops (Salvation Army, Savers, and The Vault). Shot in film by photographer Joshua Espinoza, “Salvation Armani” reminds us that when it comes to thrifting, the only thing standing between you and that fantastic sequin jacket is just a few bucks. So here’s to grandma sweaters, November, and living in the present. Love always,
street style best of Brown style
Slimane for Saint Laurent better button downs donâ€™t get sloppy la vie en rose: Brown in Paris
beauty twisted tresses editorsâ€™ hits & misses
diy typographic pillowcases
entertainment princess V an interview with Lily Gildor behind the album: mumford and sons
art portraits of all kinds
on the cover: Alex Sammon, photographed by Joshua Espinoza additional layout assistance: Bella Norvig
october 2012 mind games take a cue from Rorschach
fall beauty trends standout makeup
that guy meet Evan Altman
salvation armani come thrifting with us
street style JAEMUN PARK ‘16
STREET STYLE DOREEN ST. FÉLIX ‘14
DEENA BUTT ‘16
STREET STYLE NICK PETERSDORF ‘12.5
ANA ALVAREZ ‘13
STREET STYLE JULIE GUTIERREZ ‘13
MARK VALDEZ ‘15
STREET STYLE SIENA DELISSER ‘13
ALI KIRSCH ‘15
STREET STYLE LAYLA EHSAN ‘16
SOFIA RUIZ ‘14
STREET STYLE TOMAS QUINONEZ-RIEGOS ‘15
MAJA CZEMIER-WOLONCIEJ ‘13
STREET STYLE BLAIR HUANG ‘15
GROUP FITNESS PASS now only $37.50 (half off) About the Group Fitness Program The Group Fitness Program provides students and Recreation Members with a wide variety of aerobics, fitness, and mind/body classes. The program is designed for all fitness levels to have fun and get fit. No experience necessary to join the fitness fun.
>> get a pass now! << >> see the schedule << Contact: Allyson Caudell, Fitness Manager | Allyson_Caudell@brown.edu | 401-863-2694
o you know that feeling of waiting very long for something that you really desire? As the days pass, anticipation mounts, expectations rise, and patience wears thin. That feeling has been with many menswear aficionados for the past five years, and earlier this October, it finally disappeared. Hedi Slimane, perhaps the most famous men’s fashion designer of contemporary times, returned from his hiatus and revealed his first collection for the newly renamed Saint Laurent. The man known for revolutionizing men’s fashion, in an attempt to redefine masculinity, is best remembered for the slim silhouette he introduced while designing menswear at Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche and then Dior Homme. Everything from skinny ties and slim suits to high-top sneakers can be accredited to this Parisian designer, whose razor-sharp tailoring allegedly inspired Karl Lagerfeld to lose 90 pounds. While his first menswear collection for Saint Laurent was nothing radically new in the eyes of his older fans, the ever-evolving realm of fashion needed a breath of fresh air from the clustered racks of heritage-inspired workwear that had ruled the markets for some time. Slimane stayed
true to his roots, reinterpreting classic rock-and-roll staples like the leather motorcycle jacket and cropped tuxedo, pairing them with shirts and ties of contrasting prints. The fits were Slimane’s standard super slim and cropped cut, but there were undeniable hints of the 1950s interpreted in a 1980s context (think Teddy Boy revivalists with sequined blazers, leopard-print shirts, and Morrissey quiffs). The beauty of Slimane as a designer lies in his ability to elevate the raw and sensuous nature of rock-and-roll to the platform of poetic elegance while maintaining its subversive and sexy youthfulness. It is exactly that interpretation of the creative and rebellious into the luxurious that Slimane best executes, and that which the house of Saint Laurent itself is built on, as evidenced by iconic yet defiant pieces like Le Smoking. Slimane is well on his way to building a strong legacy at the storied Parisian house that brought him into fashion; the two parties seem to have been made for each other. This was surely just one of many exceptional collections to come from Hedi Slimane, as the fashion world waits with dire anticipation to see what he will come up with next at his menswear show in January. --Dominik Halás
better button downs
Set with style but not with coordination? Here are some tips for how to combine like a man. For simplification, a print is a repeated motif, like paisley or a crest. A pattern is a design with straight lines, like check, plaid or print.
Don’t underestimate the collared button down shirt. It is not just for adults, it is not just for suits, and it is not just part of a uniform. The button down should be a staple in every man’s wardrobe. Whether you prefer it plaid, printed, striped, or solid, the button down is versatile in a way that few other garments truly are. Women wouldn’t have co-opted the design so extensively if weren’t. If you keep a button down or six in your closet with a few other key garments, you’ll be set from September through April.
1. Denim, or chambray, goes with anything, except more denim. A denim shirt is a must. 2. Wear any pattern or print, no matter how bold, with a solid (darker is better). 3. Patterns and prints may be mixed, provided a prominent color is shared. 4. Avoid wearing patterns together, unless you aim to be noticed. Again, a mutual color is beneficial. 5. Patterned neckwear may be worn with a patterned top. Just be aware of the statement you make. 6. The larger the pattern (i.e. wide stripes instead of pinstripes), the more versatile it is.
I have to compliment you on the way you’ve been dressing lately. You’ve made the transition so smoothly from summer to autumn, and it’s been a delight to watch. Although it pains me somewhat to notice the lack of pastel polos, cuffed shorts and vintage tees, I can’t help but be excited by the somber plaids and corduroy trousers you’ve liberated from the bottom of your wardrobe. As you know, though, autumn isn’t as easy to dress for as summer. Having to put on more clothes seems to confuse some of our newer classmates, separating, if you will, the Boy-at-Brown from the Man-at-Brown. I thought I’d take this chance to share the most important piece of your autumn wisdom with your fellow students: the button down shirt.
The possibilities for a button down are endless. Go from casual to classy, and look put together in five minutes or fifteen. Pair your button down with: a tee shirt, a cardigan, a sweatshirt, a sweater, a blazer, a tie, a bowtie, or nearly any combination of the above (within reason, of course.) Inspired by the Man-at-Brown, please enjoy the following informational graphic on the proper use of a button down shirt. --S. Blistein
classy casual least effort
model: Fletcher Bell photos by: S. Blistein
hh, Fall. The leaves shake off the summer green to don the season’s new shades of crimson and gold, and happily for us, the first slew of midterms is now done. As the temperature drops and the wind picks up, however, most of us find it hard to even get out of bed for class, let alone dress for the day. What happened to the fashionable students from the first two weeks of school? What happened to the idea of taking deliberate care to look polished and ready for the day? Instead, each year around October (aka two months into school), the fall wind blows in an apathetic atmosphere to fill the campus with grey sweatsuits, unwashed jeans, and scruffy sneakers that are stubbornly being worn past its demise. Wake up, Brown! With the fall and coming win-
ter season, it’s an opportunity to play with jewel tones, to reunite with our favorite Cole Haan riding boots, or to look luxuriously chic with simply a scarf. Presenting ourselves as put-together Brown students is not hard to do, and only begs of five more seconds of thought in the morning when getting dressed. For example, rather than trudging to class in baggy sweatpants, put on a pair of black leggings to give some definition to your outfit. Mind you, keep these leggings thick enough to substitute as pants— Lululemon leggings may be pricey, but trust me, worth every penny. In love with your sweatshirt? Why not try a zipup fleece or quarter-zip sweater instead? Switching out the ever-present BROWN sweatshirt for a simple black quarter-zip sweater will present you as comfortable,
DON’T GET SLOPPY sensible, and ready for class. Another trick I love is to splurge on men’s (cashmere) sweaters— it is just divine to slip into a men’s v-neck sweater: oh-so-comfortable and roomy while letting you look classic and put-together. These are the most basic switches you can make to keep yourself from the sloppy fall fashion trend we so often see on campus. My necessities for lazy fashion-forward switches are printed or neutral scarves, black leggings, polished flats, or comfy riding boots. These accessories can keep you up-to-date with the weather and also act as an instant upgrade to your outfit. A classic pair of oversized sunglasses or edgy aviator shades is also a must to every and any outfit if you’re looking to re-style your wintery wardrobe.
But if you’re already eager to put more thought into your outfit, then it’s time to think outside the box. If you still have your favorite printed dress from summer, don’t pack it away! Add a blazer, black tights, and if you’re still a little chilly, a neutral scarf. Here’s to welcoming autumn with a little summer. Have that chunky knit neutral sweater that you always wear with pants and riding boots? Twist the classic fall look with tights and a skirt. Skirts -- whether it’s tulle, flouncy and floor-length, or a tight colorful mini -- can add a delicate, feminine touch that will claim your fashionable independence from the bundled crowd. Still, my favorite thing about fall/winter is playing contrast games. That is, the weather obliges us to put on our trusty fall Barbours, navy peacoats, or win-
tery white trenches. One of the best parts about wearing a coat, other than keeping warm, is that what lies beneath (our “actual outfit”) is a secret until we choose to unveil it. So, under a boxy, dark green hunting jacket (I’m thinking of my classic Barbour beadle here), I like to keep my look feminine— at times with a deep magenta wool skirt, or with a lacy dress and tights, or with a giant sparkly necklace/earring set. Or, under my boring navy, half peacoat, I love to unveil a crazy Christmas sweater, or a exuberant turquoise blouse. Who doesn’t love a good surprise? Wear your summer dresses into fall by adding tights, boots, and a jacket
BECKY WILNER GS ‘13
EMMA BRANDT ‘14
A comfy crewneck sweatshirt looks instantly chic when paired with printed pants and a structured bag
So to my beloved Brown bears, I miss the sharply dressed students I admired in the beginning of the year. To be honest I think most of you know how to put together lovely, tailored outfits. But now that it’s spelled out for you here, there’s no excuse now, is there? Just remember, Chanel creative director and homme de la mode extraordinaire Karl Lagerfeld declared, “Sweatpants are a sign of defeat.” Now, Lagerfeld probably doesn’t account for midterm or finals week. But for any other day, his advice is spot on. --Audrey Yongju Cho
LA VIE EN ROSE: BROWN IN PARIS
he decision to leave my beloved Browntown for an entire semester was a difficult one. Brown has such a powerful and comforting sense of community. The professors are engaging, and the classes are thought provoking (and in my native language!). I’ve also found a family on College Hill, in my motley crew of friends. It’s hard enough being away from them during long winter and summer breaks, so a semester apart seemed unthinkable. If any place was going to make the separation worth it, it was Paris. The City of Lights. The City of Love. One of Josephine Baker’s “Deux Amours.” Paris is a truly amazing place to study abroad. The Brown-in-France program strikes a nice balance between absolute freedom and a sense of structure with regular group gatherings and available resources in the office. Although I’m thousands of miles away from Providence, my Parisian life is speckled with remnants of home. I live with a buddy from Brown, often explore the city with new friends from the program, and even find a few Brunonians among my all-French classmates at the Sorbonne.
In total, a small group of 16 students (all but one from Brown) makes up the program: 12 girls and 4 boys. The unevenness of the gender ratio is somewhat typical of study abroad experiences in Western Europe, but it seems particularly pronounced in Paris. I attribute this disparity to the fact that Paris has an incredibly feminine vibe. Indeed, on any given block in this city, you’re bound to find a salon, perfume shop, chocolatier, florist, and lingerie store. While I’m loath to promote gender stereotypes, I must admit that all of these establishments feed into my girliest tendencies. I find something inherently feminine in the classic image of enjoying a baguette and a bottle of wine in the company of friends on the banks of the Seine, or in the Tuileries Gardens. And all while wearing a scarf, of course. You see, this past month has been a crucial time for me to stock up on my Paris wardrobe essentials. Parisian style is very tailored and poised, plus French women don’t show nearly as much skin as Americans. Beyond the wellknown scarf business, living in Paris does require some basic pieces...
A black blazer is an incredibly important staple in a Parisian wardrobe. Preferably, it’s one you can wear both opened or buttoned. Whether it’s over jeans, a skirt, or a dress, the blazer adds a sense of sophistication.
A black or dark brown leather jacket is another important, albeit more casual, outerwear piece, along with the big green parka-esque utility jackets that are all the rage and practical for the unceasing Parisian rains.
3 4 5
A simple pair of black jeans will certainly go a long way (and really you can’t go wrong with black anything). Short leather boots with buckles and even suede sneaker-style wedges are common footwear.
If you’re looking to add an accessory for good measure, throw on one of the many scarves you will acquire throughout your time in Paris.
Better yet, don’t bother putting in your contacts and join the glasses-clad bobos (bourgeois-bohème, the awesome French word for hipster) around rue Oberkampf.
During my first month and a half in Paris, I’ve found that these pieces are generally easy to acquire at H&M or Zara, the European-based clothing brands that become everyone’s favorite stores during their time abroad. My transition back to the U.S. will be harder now that I’m convinced the European stores carry superior products to their American counterparts. In addition to these familiar brands and shops, Paris offers Étam and Princesse Tam Tam - excellent stores for cute and affordable French lingerie. For more high-end shopping, Le Bon Marché sells the best of the best and has a beautiful hat section that is quite fun to explore. The Galeries Lafayette is a classic, situating every French brand you can imagine into an exquisite old building near the Opera Garnier. I also personally enjoy the availability of Pierre Hermé macaroons in the enormous women’s shoe department. It makes for a heavenly shopping experience. But I suppose that any shopping experience in Paris possesses a somewhat divine quality. Paris is a truly enchanting place, and its strong ties to la mode play a large part in its magic. From stalking the Fashion Week locations to simply observing the outfits around me on metro rides, I’ve found that my style identity is evolving considerably during my time in the City of Lights. Come January, I don’t know where I’ll ultimately land, but I’m having a wonderful time on the ride. -- Caroline Bologna
the no-heat, elastic headband solution by Lorraine Limpahan photos by Athena Huang
The fall season is finally here! It’s time to set aside beachy waves and prepare for a season that emanates poise and elegance. We’ve found the perfect, healthy, no-heat hair trend to complement your fall-semester wardrobe. Show off relaxed, romantic, and wispy twists that accent the sophisticated new you without the hassle and damage of a curling iron!
YOU’LL NEED: -1 thin elastic headband -2 bobby pins -Hair Putty (Recommended: Garnier Fructis Style Fiber gum putty) -Thickening Hairpsray (Recommended: got2b Fat-tastic with collagen infusion) -Brush -Water -A good night’s rest!
STEP 1 Brush through clean, dry hair. Dampen your hair slightly with water, focusing on the roots. Style a quarter-sized amount of hair putty through your hair, focusing on the roots and ends.
STEP 2 Place the elastic headband around your head and wrap the material across your forehead, like a halo.
STEP 3 Starting on one side of your head, begin twisting a small section of hair away from your face. Twist the strand all the way down, starting tightly at the root (make sure the headband is snug in place).
STEP 4 Next, loop the twisted strand through the headband. Tug the twist upward and tuck it down beneath the elastic band, making sure that the loop is tight.
STEP 5 Take another small section adjacent to the strand and combine it with the remaining twist. Twist these two sections together tightly and repeat step #4. Make sure the next loop is also secure beside the loop before it.
STEP 6 Repeat step 5 â€“ continue to add the next section of hair to each twist until you are out of hair. If you have a lot of hair, your headband should be nicely cramped and this may end up looking more like an updo from the 1920â€™s; if you have little hair, you may need to loop a twist around the headband more than once before adding the next section in order to minimize the gaps between loops on the headband.
STEP 7 When you have reached the other side of your head and run out of hair, you can secure the remaining loop onto your head with two bobby pins.
STEP 8 Spray your hair with thickening hairspray, especially the sections that frame either side of your face. STEP 9 Go to sleep! For best results, at least six hours are needed. STEP 10 In the morning, slowly begin unraveling your hair, starting from one side of your face. Apply thickening hairspray liberally. Your hair will be very stringy looking at first – don’t worry, the curls will settle down over the course of the day.
STEP 11 Flip your hair over and tousle the crown of your head, shaking out and loosening the twists. They are quite delicate – run your fingers through your curls carefully.
STEP 12 Voilà! Style with more hairspray as needed.
Tip: For a nice embellishment to your ‘do, loosely pin up half of your hair, as shown. For the perfect finishing touch, unfasten two side strands and hold them in place with bobby pins, allowing the cascading strands to delicately frame your face.
editors’hits & misses
PRODUCTS WE LOVE e.l.f. Nail Polishes “This nail polish gives gorgeous color and only costs $2.”
-Ashlyn Koga, web beauty editor
Lush Black Stockings Massage Bar “It gives an instant golden glow any time of year.” -Valery Scholem, Business Manager
Too Faced Chocolate Soleil Matte Bronzing Powder “It smells delectable and makes me feel less glow-inthe-dark during times of little sunshine (aka all the time in Providence).” -Victor Ha, fashion editor
Covergirl LipPerfection Lipcolor in “Fairytale” “It’s the perfect shade of pink without looking too old school. But most importantly, it dries into an almost stain-like consistency and stays on all day.”
Nars Pure Matte Lipstick in “Carthage” “Perfect for special occasions or gloomy days when I feel like I need a pick me up!” -Mo Hy, DIY editor
-Liliana Sykes, web assistant
Boscia Restorative Night Moisture “This nighttime cream leaves my face feeling refreshed and repaired in the morning.” -Marissa Petteruti, beauty editor
Freeman Facial PeelOff Cucumber Mask “It makes my skin feel really soft and smooth and it smells great!” -Catherine Gao, art editor
PRODUCTS WE WEREN’T CRAZY ABOUT bareMinerals Prime Time Foundation Primer “This product is supposed both act as a primer and control shine throughout the day, but for me it did neither. It comes in the form of a clear gel and leaves your face feeling stiff afterwards, and it rubs off when makeup is applied over it.” -Marissa Petteruti, beauty editor
Maybelline Color Tattoo Eyeshadow in Barely Beige “This eyeshadow is not in any way similar to a tattoo: after applying more than one layer, it cakes up, and when used as a base, the eyeshadow application is not smooth. And it’s called Barely Beige. Since when is beige glittery?” -Ashlyn Koga, web beauty editor
Covergirl Nature Luxe “It feels smooth and it’s sheer but I always break out the next day. It’s also too pricey for drugstore foundation.” -Catherine Gao, art editor
Jergens Natural Glow Daily Moisturizer “I don’t regret buying it so much as I dislike the smell. The results are great; the scent is questionable.” -Victor Ha, fashion editor
Smashbox Photo Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer in Green “Instead of minimizing redness as marketed, I just looked like Shrek.” -Mo Hy, DIY editor
recommendation for the gentlemen “My absolute favorite cologne is Armani Code. I’ve gotten a couple of my guy friends to hop onboard with this too!” -Mo Hy, DIY editor
Buy the set for $34 from Urban Outfitters or make your own for under $10
diy TYPOGRAPHIC PILLOWCASE by Mo Hy
TYPOGRAPHIC PILLOWCASES....a simple, graphic DIY, perfect for snoozing in style.
YOU WILL NEED: plain pillowcases printer fabric markers scissors or exacto knife
Cut out the inside of the letters with a pair of scissors or craft knife. This part can be a bit time consuming, but keep on going!
Make a stencil by printing off your desired text on cardstock or heavy weight paper. I used Modern No. 20, 400pt, but feel free to experiment with different fonts and sizes.
With midterms finally winding down, why donâ€™t you make your reunion with your bed even sweeter?
Carefully trace the letters onto the pillows with fabric markers.
Color in the letters using the lines you made as a guide. Freehand some designs around the text or keep it clean. The possibilities are almost literally endless. Done!
“I like my men like I like my food -- rich.” We like: pumpkin muffins from the Blue Room & truffle fries from Plouf Plouf.
“Queers at Brown are like squirrels at Brown-- frisky as f*ck and infinite in number.”
We don’t like: overcooked cookies & underseasoned anything.
THE COOL KID
FALL DANCE CONCERT Princess attire: Jeffrey Campbell daisy ballet flats.
Corey Scult ‘13
KISS OF THE SPIDER WOMAN Princess attire: whatever the hell you want. It’s the theatre.
The hottest knigh
FLORA “Every Valentine’s Day, my boyfriend buys me flowers. And by ‘my boyfriend,’ I mean myself, and by ‘flowers,’ I mean 3 boxes of Godiva, half a dozen limes, and a bottle of tequila.”
Bitches who wear UGGS
Bitches who wear Crocs
OLD NEWS / NEW NEWS
Astrology for the best and baddest bitches
With Venus lining up at a super cute angle with the sun, the princess potential for November will be off the charts. Be sure to capitalize on all this good energy by finally approaching that sexy trust fund baby you’ve had your eye on since September. Put on some mascara, take a shot of Skyy, and you’re set. Just remember to be discreet -- as an independent concentrator in the Art of Gold-Digging, I cannot overemphasize the importance of a sly mien in seducing your would-be Chuck Bass. Towards the middle of the month, you’ll start getting some negative vibes from Pluto, who’s still pissed after the other planets told him YOU CAN’T SIT WITH US. This means that Trust Fund Baby will probably end things with you, but fret not! The last week of November will bring the princess stars back into line, and an athletic pre-law student from Britain will (literally) fall into your lap. Better start studying up on your high tea etiquette -- this is one suitor who won’t be impressed by your ability to blackout three nights a week. Like this new monthly column, November will be everything you’ve always wanted -- and more.
Straight Boy Crush
being a hipster
All the Queen’s Men
being a princess
hts of the Brown Table
Joe Stall ‘13
THE STRAIGHT BOY CRUSH
Henry Kaye ‘14
PARTING WORDS “Don’t hate me because I’m pretty. Hate me because you’re not.”
xoxo Princess V illustrated by Diane Zhou
LILYGILDOR an interview with “A PW MUSICAL? IT CAN’T BE! IT IS.”
ypically, Production Workshop, Brown University’s completely student-run theatre company put on “straight plays” (meaning they do not revolve around song and dance) but this time, they decided to mix it up with their production of Stephen Sondheim and George Furth’s musical Company. With Rachel Borders ’13 as director and Brooke Camarda ’13 as musical director, Company was performed in PW’s Downspace on October 26th-29th, 2012. The show, written in the 1970s and set in the ever-bustling New York City, told the story of a man named Bobby celebrating his 35th birthday while struggling with commitment issues. Through a series of vignettes involving his 5 married pairs of dysfunctional best friends and the 3 women he dates, Company explores themes of loneliness, companionship, and change. As the show explored a theme of change, and PW
undertook a change in genre, it is fitting that Company’s wardrobe underwent a transformation from the typical 70s wardrobe used in past productions to a sleek, urban, modern look. The chic costume designer who engineered this look was Lily Gildor ‘13, an art history and visual arts concentrator. Lily met me in the Blue Room (dressed in a bold black leather jacket and darling leopard cardigan) to discuss her designs for Company, her experiences in fashion, and her personal style. How did you become interested in costume design? I’ve always been interested in fashion, but this is the first time I’ve ever done costume design. My friend Rachel Borders is directing [Company], and when she proposed it she asked me if I would be interested and I sort of just said “yes.”
photos by MJ Batson
What were your previous experiences with costuming and fashion? I had been doing fashion stuff over the summer. I worked at LACMA [the Los Angeles County Museum of Art] in the costume and textiles department, so I had done some fashion but never any design on my own.
persona. But there’s another character who is the southern belle type, and it was a challenge to create her look without being too kitschy or stereotypical.
What is the best part about working on costume design? It’s a very unique opportunity to really step outside of your own personal style and imagine how a character Did you have any particular inspirations in designing Com- would dress during a certain moment in time. Each character in Company is very distinct, so I really enjoyed pany’s wardrobe? experimenting with different types and styles of clothing. The show takes place in New York in the 1970s, but our take is actually modern. How would you define your personal style? When you chose to use modern instead of 1970s-inspired Definitely laid back [and] fairly tomboyish. I try not to costumes, what aesthetics did you choose to inspire your take myself too seriously. designs? One of the main themes of the show is loneliness and how Who or what are your fashion inspirations? I would say my friends are by far my biggest fashion inspirelationships contribute to that feeling, so most of the costumes are fairly simple and monochrome. Each charac- rations. ter is very distinct, so I really wanted to focus on individual personalities rather than an overall theme. The show is Did you incorporate any of your own style into Compadefinitely very modern and takes place in New York City, ny’s costumes? so I tried to bring a sleekness and sophistication to each character. I don’t wear too many patterns or colors, so in that respect, the characters’ style is pretty similar to my own. How do the costumes for this show affect characterization I tried to really focus on the individual characters and not in the piece? get too caught up in my own personal aesthetic. I would say they affect it a lot. Style is so personal. Do you have any more costume design projects coming How many costumes did you have to create? up in the future? Not that many –which was good! (Laughs) [Company has a Not yet! cast of 14 characters] While Lily may not have any costuming projects How did you acquire the costume pieces? coming up in the near future, I am certain this darling Some of the pieces are from the actors’ wardrobes. I [also] designer will continue to show off her unique style as her did a lot of shopping at vintage stores and Savers. senior year progresses. I, for one, was psyched to see her designs come to life on PW’s stage! One fact is certain – Were any of the costumes particularly exciting or challeng- this musical cast was one well-dressed “company.” ing to create? --Katherine Boorstein There is one character who is a flight attendant, and it was very fun to play with the stereotypical flight attendant
BEHIND THE ALBUM: MUMFORD AND SONS
ou always know an act has made it when they can make a music video with just a montage of them performing on tour. Mumford & Sons’ video for their lead single, “I Will Wait,” off their sophomore album Babel does just this. The video is simply comprised of them in their utmost element, the audience stomping, jumping, and dare I say it, even a little fist pumping. Or maybe you can tell they’ve made it when they are streamed for free eight million times in one week on Spotify, and people still cash out and buy 600,000 copies of the album in that same first week. Or – hold on, wait – they already did perform with Bob Dylan. They sold millions of their debut album, so these London lads have made a big
bang - and now they’re proving successful in avoiding the sophomore slump. That’s better than some sophomores I know. (Not me, though, Mom!) Released September 25, this album has track after track of beer-sloshing, pounding, Salvation Army choirboy melodies. The sound doesn’t veer too far from the previous album, Sigh No More, but they definitely stepped up the volume. Their tracks are laced with the same banjo and intricate piano, but now it’s bigger, better, punchier. The hollers and strumming are on an arena level. They know how to do a dramatic build better than any Ultra-bound DJ about to drop their computerized bass. There is an abundance of religious metaphor,
but I can dig it. Front man Marcus Mumford did grow up with Evangelical parents who were of the Vineyard, a Christian movement that attracted people like Bob Dylan (ermahgerd, how full circle). The lyrics in conjunction with their brassy, humble instruments are almost cathartic. It works because it doesn’t prophesize. It’s more about introspection, confusion, loss, and pain, than about Sunday school. The title track delivers, singing, “press my nose up to the glass around your heart.” Who doesn’t go crazy over a guy singing about love? Their bonus tracks include a stripped down, brassy cover of Simon and Garfunkel’s “The Boxer.” Again, good move, good move. My personal favorite is “Hopeless Wanderer,” which starts off slow, a nice reprieve. But then it builds into Mumford’s spitfire pleas and frustrations. Solid stuff. Now, enough talk about the music, it’s time for
the big boy stuff. They have a killer style, the perfect delineation of this issue’s menswear theme. Their aesthetic is enough to confuse a high school prom-going boy to ask why there are more than two pieces to a suit. Think menswear that is sharp and cunning, yet worn down, wrinkled by long nights performing in grassy country fields. Grey vests over unbuttoned button ups, pinstripe pants, scuffed brogues, and scruffy beards. It’s a tried and true alterna-fashion, yet it’s still a refreshing break from all the pretty boy swag business that won’t seem to die. And our Brown ladies know just how to translate this: with feminine wavy hair, loose boyfriend button-ups, crisp skinnies, and leather booties. So give the songs a listen and throw on an undone bowtie that will look good enough to compete with the boys. --Nicole Salvador
MAIA OUREAIS OF THE LOVELY BLACK EYES, MAYA MASON
MIND GAMES This fall, go crazy for graphic Rorschach prints and symmetry. by Kelsey Kawana, Taryn Riemer, and Valeria Sanabria photographer: Carolyn Shasha models: Dominika Fiolna and Essie Quakyi makeup artist: Jennifer Morgan
fall beauty trends
subtle brown smokey eye
by Nati Hyojin Kim photos by MJ Batson and April Zhang
Model: Maggie Hire Products Used: Maybelline Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24hr Cream Gel Shadow in “Bad to the Bronze;” Revlon Customeyes Shadow in “Naturally Glamorous;” N.Y.C. Smooth Skin Bronzing Face Powder in “Sunny;” Revlon Colorburst Lip Butter in “Crème Brulée”
dramatic colorful smokey eye
Model: Emily Connor-Simons Products Used: Make Up Forever Aqua Cream in “27;” Covergirl Eye Enhancers 4-kit Shadows in “Tropical Fusion;” Revlon Colorburst Lip Butter in “Peach Parfait” and “Sweet Tart”
Model: Mary Craig Products Used: NARS Sheer Lipstick in “Fast Ride;” Dior Addict in “Jet Set”
Model: Hyyunwoo June Choo Products Used: Maybelline Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Liner in “Blackest Black”
photos by MJ Batson
van Altman ‘13 owns somewhere between twenty and fifty pairs of crazy, colorful socks. But the extent of his finely curated wardrobe doesn’t end there. Choosing just three or four outfits to showcase Evan’s style was a challenge – saying yes to this vintage leather jacket meant saying no to that green corduroy blazer. It was especially difficult to select our favorite shoes from his collection of twenty pairs – some are casual but one particular pair is so nice, he keeps them in their own felt bag on the top shelf of his closet. (On the importance of shoes, Evan says, “A solid house needs a strong foundation and shoes are this foundation. They are literally the area of fashion between you and the ground.”) He was endearingly embarrassed the more I complimented him on the extent of his closet. But he had no reason to be. It’s awesome, not embarrassing, to have such a great wardrobe. And so organized! The shirts all hung neatly, right below his many jackets (“I like jackets a lot – more in terms of style than function.”), and drawers upon drawers of carefully folded sweaters, socks, and accessories, including scarves, bowties, hats, and gloves. Unsur-
prisingly, Evan has never felt constricted by the limits of men’s fashion. Acknowledging the fact that draped sweaters and scarves are more common in women’s fashion, he proclaims, “I will still scarf it up when I want to.” Evan is humorous and confident, traits that definitely come across in the way he dresses. He describes his style as “part formal and part trendy, often colorful, and always anchored by a pair of weird socks.” He got his first pair of crazy socks while he was a junior in high school because white athletic socks were too boring, especially when paired with his colorful outfits. Now, as a senior in college, he never leaves the house without putting on a pair - and he wouldn’t be caught dead in a mismatched set. For Evan, wearing wacky socks may be part of an average day, but they offer something special to others: “I don’t just show everyone my ankles, but now, when you’re lucky enough to glimpse them, the reward is sweet (and colorful).” Of course, Evan is way more than just his wardrobe. A double concentrator in computer science and visual art (what a Brown student), he spends plenty of time in both List and the CIT – two buildings that are worlds
on why funky socks are great: “I like the reactions I get to my socks. They’re weird.”
apart. He recognizes the differences between the two worlds (“For example, I’ve never received an email from the Visual Arts Department reminding me to shower, but I’ve also never seen a more academically intense environment than the SunLab after 1AM.”) but also deeply enjoys being a part of both, citing their shared employment of creativity to solve problems and create final products, as well as the greatness of his fellow concentrators in each department. Evan is also a huge fan of Kanye West (who inspires both his style and his art) and a member of Delta Tau Fraternity. His wardrobe makes him a standout guy, but he likes to do what anyone else does: chill with his “boyyzzz,” listen to music, eat good food, travel, watch funny TV shows, and sleep. “And I must unabashedly add that I’m a pretty wonderful dancer and enjoy that, too.” When asked about his most memorable experiences at Brown, he struggled to choose just one. He reminisced fondly about a Spring Weekend jorts party, where everyone had to wear denim cut-offs, or else their jeans would be cut off at the knee upon arrival. He also loved the summer art program he did in Pont-Aven, France with the Brown Visual Arts Department. But these are just two of the many highlights from his years at Brown, and Evan looks forward to the experiences that come with senior year. Undoubtedly, there is an infinite number of memories to be made and an infinite number of socks to be worn. -- April Zhang
on the limits of menswear: “I applaud pioneers like Kanye who’ve ventured towards new realms like the leather kilt. I think I could pull one of those off...”
on his favorite color combination: “Right now it’s probably blue, black, and orange. But the purple and brown combo is climbing the ranks!”
on Kanye West: â€œI really like Kanye and can relate to his desire to always evolve without losing the swagger that makes him him.â€?
on the importance of fashion: Not all animals can drastically affect their appearance - cuttlefish and chameleons are just two of numerous exceptions to this claim - so as a human, I like to embrace the opportunity I have to be different.
201 Pitman Street | (401) 421-5270 Hours: Mon-Fri 9am to 8pm; Sat 9am to 6pm; Sun closed Collection: The Salvation Army’s collection is smaller than Savers’, but a million times easier to comb through. The garments are color-coded, the clothing sections (mens, womens, childrens) are separated, and there are different rooms for different items, like clothes, furniture and appliances. They stock brands like Gap, Alfani, Claiborne, and Levi’s, as well as some pretty decent vintage stuff with company and team names and logos. Prices: Garments are usually at least seven dollars, more for known brand names or things that are clearly in style. Price also usually matches quality. But on Wednesday most items are half-off!
THE SALVATION ARMY
Extra: The Disney VHS collection is pretty sweet, and so are the cassette tapes. There’s lots of old furniture, a decent amount of hardcover books, and a whole room of appliances and toys.
201 Branch Ave | (401) 273-1025 | take bus 99 from N. Main and S. Court St. 1925 Pawtucket Avenue | (401) 438-1955 | take bus 78 from the Thayer St. tunnel Hours: Mon-Sat 9am to 9pm; Sun 10am to 7pm Collection: Savers has an absolutely enormous collection of clothes and housewares (though it lacks the furniture that the Salvation Army has). Rows upon rows of tops, bottoms, belts and shoes. You’re more likely to spot a designer piece at Savers, where we found Proenza Schouler for Target and Ermenegildo Zegna, for example. Common brands were Gap, J. Crew, Tommy Hilfiger, Loft and Talbots. The boot selection is killer, and they have a great variety of books (buy four, get one free!) and random knick-knacks. Prices: Excellent prices. A never-worn felt J. Crew skirt for seven dollars, a trippy vintage mens sweater for three. Nothing much over fifteen except for outerwear and shoes. Extra: Cheap throw pillows, curtains and rugs for your dorm and a decent collection of cheap costume jewelry.
Main Green (rain location: JWW) | (401) 863-2226 Hours: Tuesday 11am - 2:30pm; Friday 11am - 2pm Collection: The Vault has a much smaller collection than the Savers and the Salvation Army, but the garments are more conscientiously picked. The turnover is quick, so check the Vault’s Facebook page to see what’s new. Expect good quality, middle brand, in-style garments like sweaters, outerwear, maxi skirts, and shoes; coffee-table books and recipe books too. Prices: Prices range according to quality and style.
Extra: Make sure to keep an eye out for the accessories table. The Vault stocks great jewelry and a variety of scarves and shoes.
The story behind The Vault, an up-cycling student-run popup thrift store, is an interesting one. The idea came from a non-profit that used to operate in Providence called Waste Not, Want Not, which used a small thrift store to fund its other operations. When Waste Not, Want Not became defunct, Brown students Tara Noble ‘15.5 and Hannah Winkler ‘13 came up with the idea to continue thrifting at Brown. It was an obvious choice for vintage-enthusiast Brown students. Now, aided by Julie Rodriguez ‘13, Noble and Winkler can be found every Tuesday and Friday selling their wares. They welcome donations, but there are strict guidelines for quality. Having the opportunity to watch their customer base every day, they know what people
like and wear. “People just love sweaters,” said Winkler, but noted that “jeans, for example, are really hard to sell.” Garments that don’t sell are donated. The Vault isn’t about profit though, and remains true to the original Waste Not, Want Not idea. Proceeds from clothing sales go to hosting workshops, where you can learn to ‘upcycle’ and “make your old, unwanted things usable and awesome”. Make sure you check out The Vault Facebook page for sale times and new items, and visit The Vault on the main green to score some sweet clothes for a good cause. -- S. Blistein
by Dominik Halรกs photos by Joshua Espinoza models: Alex Sammon, Darien Acero, Chanelle Adams special thanks to: Siera Dissmore, Sally Luu, Sophia Kadieva, Jaemun Park
Published on Nov 2, 2012
The October 2012 issue of Unhemmed Magazine, Brown University's first and only fashion magazine that celebrates style, culture, and the arts...