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Issue One

EMPOWERMENT

£6.99

FOR WOMEN THAT LIKE ALL THE TRIMMINGS


undone ISSUE ONE: EMPOWERMENT EDITOR-IN-CHIEF / FASHION DIRECTOR HARDEEP GILL CREATIVE ART DIRECTOR LAUREN MICHELLE PIRES SUB-EDITORS HARRIET BABBAGE LAWRENCE GICHIGI WRITER HARDEEP GILL CONTRIBUTORS TOLU AKINOLA, RASHID BABIKER, CHRISTOPHER POLLARD, SHAKIL HUSSAIN COVER IMAGE BEN LEE WWW.BENLEEPHOTO.COM SPECIAL THANKS MANJIT GILL, ROBERT DE NIET, RENEE LINDELL, TOLU ADEKO, RAI CAMPBELL, HARRIET BABBAGE, JUSTIN AKOMIAH UNDONE MAGAZINE +44 (0) 799 928 8787, undonemagazine@gmail.com www.facebook.com/UndoneMagazine

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED IN WHOLE OR PART WITHOUT PERMISSION FROM THE PUBLISHERS. THE VIEWS EXPRESSED IN UNDONE MAGAZINE ARE THOSE OF THE RETROSPECTIVE CONTRIBUTORS AND ARE NOT NECESSARILY SHARED BY THE MAGAZINE OR IT’S STAFF.

© 2012 UNDONE PUBLISHED BY WRITER’S BLOCK LTD, 22D HOOK ROAD, EPSOM, SURREY, KT19 8TR

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EDITOR’S LETTER Dear Underwearers, Undone welcomes you to a seductive world of lingerie, where the ends are trimmed with lace, and the perfect bra is within arms reach. By changing the way lingerie is seen and perceived, Undone will be delving underneath and delivering to you the latest in the world of underwear as well as portraying to you the female form in an entirely new light. With us now formally introduced, I bring to you Issue One: Empowerment. The dictionary definition states that empowerment means: To give power or authority to; authorize, especially by legal or official means. And this is exactly what Undone wants you to do. The time has come to have power over your choices, from the little things like choosing the correctly fitting lingerie to making a difficult decision that affects you and your lifestyle. The time has come to exercise authority over your own choices and to make sure that it is you first and foremost that is entirely happy from the result of these choices. The time has come to bloom as an empowered post-modern woman, where we do no longer just want to burn the bra, but instead wear it with pride whilst achieving our goals, allowing the cups and straps to hold us up in support. The time has come to understand what we are entitled to when it comes to legality. Issue One is about embracing all that is empowering. Please expect to uncover and absorb exciting intellectual content, from rising design talent, see jewellery designer Kyle Hopkins on page‌ Find innovative trends by referring yourself to the latest of SS12 on page‌, and uncover the recent musings in the world of politics and The Future of Feminism on page... Do not expect Undone to be the embodiment of women perusing themselves in lingerie encouraging the notion that less is more. We all indulge on expressing ourselves through our clothes on the outside, but it is time to uncover what is underneath. There is something decidedly sexy about what a woman chooses to bare below her everyday wear as it can translate a lot about her. To all my empowering women, it is time to come Undone and reveal what lies beneath. Yours in Lingerie Love,

Editor-in-Chief Hardeep Gill

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CONTENTS UNDONE ISSUE ONE: EMPOWERMENT T HE BO DY The Perfect Bra The Woman Undone : Ayishat Akanbi The Contour Design Student : Bianca La Porta All Walks, All Bodies : Caryn Franklin In Your Wear

26 32 39 65 74

fashio n The SS12 Lingerie Report VPL Things The Lingerie Stylist : Tamar Kendall The Savile Row of Lingerie : Rigby and Peller Man Pants : Alexis Mabille x HOM Fashion Moment : Hosiery The Brassiere Boutique - The Lingerie Collective Get It Tight Undressed : Marlies Dekkers The Sock Shop Clasps Undone : Kyle Hopkins Even Faster : Mark Fast

14 16 18 19 25 31 38 40 69 71 72 73

A rt s & cult ure The Future of Feminism DJ’s Decks and Dedication : DJ Fearney Flesh Works - Lucian Freud

20 24 68

Stockists

75

UNDONE / 13


THE LINGERIE REPORT

SS12 PYJAMA PARTY Words By Hardeep Gill

Fed up of being left in the bedroom, un-ironed

Oxford slippers and jacquard ties that made for

and thrown on after dark, SS12 gave way to the

a more alluring eveningwear spring option, only

pyjama pack to have it’s moment to rise and

if your bedtime attire diverts you to a darker side.

shine. As printed sets dominated the runway, the

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all-familiar demure silhouette was a favourite at

Richard Nicholl welcomed psychedelic blues

Stella McCartney with a blue paisley-print pyjama

creating newfound optimism and a sense of

two-piece that exuded ease and more formally,

serenity. Inspired by French film ‘L’enfer’, Nicholl

a grey silk ensemble complete with white piping.

derived his collection from ideas of delusions

The sumptuous silk PJ sets you would only expect

and surrealism fusing the two together with the

at Christmas and other such special occasions

groovy chic aesthetic of the sixties. Blurred floral

have come out to play for spring and the Stella

jacquards looked as if they had been painted

McCartney woman is as sexy and confident as

daintily with watercolours and draped loosely off

ever.

the models for a more relaxed, casual appeal.

Paler paisley prints encapsulated sleepover

If you want to be part of the sleepover, the

fever at J.W Anderson with a nostalgic schoolgirl

pyjama party is a no fuss or frill trend. Opt for

appeal. Clements Ribeiro and Jil Sander also

springtime elegance by pairing lean slouchy

followed suit with eloquent floral numbers in

trousers with a matching top that sits just below

the ever-favourite springtime pastels of baby

the trouser-line. Allow the print to do the talking

blues, pinks, and delicious mint’s. Silky ensembles

by keeping accessories to a minimum and

vacated the bedroom and entered the runway at

embrace the dreamlike appeal at all hours, day

Haider Ackermann, complete with coordinating

and night.


UNDONE / 15

CLEMENT’S RIBEIRO SS12 RTW

STELLA MCCARTNEY SS12 RTW

RICHARD NICHOLL SS12 RTW

JIL SANDER SS12


VPL Things 16 / UNDONE

T h e D a i ly K n i c k e r

Boys by Girls

www.thedailyknicker.tumblr.com

www.boysbygirls.co.uk

Model Tiah Eckhardt loves lingerie and shows it in the simplest of ways on her blog The Daily Knicker. Do not expect to find highly edited and airbrushed images, not here. Feast your eyes instead on her grand collection of sexy lingerie taken simply in her home.

Cecilie Harris and India Hobson used their photography skills to create Boys by Girls, from which they capture the male form by a female photographer. How the female artist views a male subject is a relationship that is interesting and has led to the production of their third book.

Boxers

M i r o s l ava M i k h e e va D u m a

www.marcbymarcjacobs.com

www.bazaar.ru

We love our girly underwear but sometimes there is nothing more comfortable or sexy than a woman in boxers. In the most nineties way possible, boxers are for the days when French knickers will just not suffice.

Feel free to call this little beauty Mira. The 25year old Russian Editor of Harper’s Bazaar has style beyond substance. Undone loves Mira’s ability to wear bold designs whilst keeping her look very feminine.


Oak, NYC

www.moma.org

www.oaknyc.com

One of the most influential artists in contemporary art, The Museum of Modern Art, New York is currently exhibiting Cindy Sherman’s provocative exploration of the construction of identity. This is a must see.

Designer concept store Oak is home to our favourite minimalist labels. Expect the very best of T by Alexander Wang, Maison Martin Margiela, Acne Jeans and a Band of outsiders to name a few. With it clean layout and modern appeal, Oak oozes urban cool.

Body stockings

Sophy Robson Nails

www.fasterbymarkfast.net

www.sophyrobson.com

I bet you are wondering why? Body stockings are the item to work in with layers to change the dynamics of a look and create chic perfection. If you don’t believe us then see below for the sexy Faster by Mark Fast number.

Because we love getting our nails done. Because the thought of walking around with chipped talons is one that sends shivers down your spine. Emerging nail artist Sophy Robson has redefined the manicure and put the sex appeal back into ‘nail porn’.

A selection of Very Pretty Little things that Undone is lusting after right now.

Cindy Sherman @ MOMA

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BRIEF ENCOUNTER: TAMAR KENDALL The Lingerie Stylist

IMAGE COURTESY OF TAMAR KENDALL

“A correctly fitting bra can even cure a sore back”

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Tamar Kendall is The Lingerie Stylist - as her blog

store to get measured. And what about her own

tells us anyways. She knows that there is more

tastes? Kendall is a fan of true British designs;

to a pair of pants and a bra than just lace and

amongst her favourites are Bordelle, Lascivious

hooks. Underwear “can be many things from

and Modern Courtesan.

functional to just for show, and in that respect

those who grace the red carpet are always

when we put on a set of lingerie we are dressing

bearing spanx and shapewear stresses the

ourselves with a persona.” Kendall knows just

importance of a correct fit. After all, “Women

how she wants a pair of suspenders to look and

must be smart with their lingerie choices”,

how to go about achieving this. “I cannot stress

especially when our underwear can reveal

enough the importance of having a proper

more about us than just our size. And as Kendall

fitting”, she exclaims, recommending every

puts it, “Quite simply, lingerie is the foundation

woman a trip down to her local department

of every outfit we wear.”

Her revelation that


BRIEF ENCOUNTER: RIGBY & PELLER The Savile Row of Lingerie

IMAGE BY RIGBY AND PELLER

“Rigby & Peller are famous for the quality of their bespoke lingerie and the innovation of their styling.” It is a well-known fact that Rigby & Peller serve

once a secret world of ribbons and lace is now

HRM and have been granted the Royal Warrant

one of the most iconic corsetieres, recognised

since 1960. It is also a well-known fact that the

as the gold standard of lingerie and renowned

brand is synonymously known for their bespoke

for it’s proper fitting services. What originated

lingerie services. When thinking of the term

from the tailoring skills of two Jewish immigrants

bespoke, the first that thing that often comes to

in the 1930’s, Bertha Rigby and Gita Peller, adds

mind is the sartorial elegance that is gained from

to the historical context of a brand that is now

the services provided by infamous Saville Row

recognised to the world over. Current owner Judy

tailors. At Rigby & Peller you find this same made

Kenton once exclaimed that you are born with

to measure service yet it wil be seamstresses who

two (breasts), “And as far as Rigby & Peller are

obtain your measurements in order to produce

concerned, those two should be in the cups. They

a hand-made bra for the individual. What was

shouldn’t meet in the middle.”

UNDONE / 19


THE FUTURE OF FEMINISM Undone investigates newer western perceptions on feminism and whether women are entirely content with the results of the changes that have occurred up until this point. We also explore the modern relationship between politics and feminism and how conservatism as an ideology has the ability to impact or affect this in a consumer culture. PHOTOS BY MAMAMIA.COM

If you ever acquaint yourself with The Guardian

not without the strong opinions that women today

online you will find that it has it’s very own ‘feminism’

women feel they are not entirely as equal as men.

section that sub-divides into the following topics:

With women taking on a conservative approach

Women, Equality and Gender. As a left-wing paper,

in order to maintain loyalty to tradition it does not

The Guardian views feminism as an important

necessarily mean that they are doing so from a

topic in the support of social change to create

feminist viewpoint. Although the two carry similar

egalitarianism. There was once a time when

characteristics, what they aim to do differs greatly.

feminism was seen as an anti-reaction to the inequalities that women faced, today however this

A recent interview with female Conservative

does not seem to be the case. As summed up in

councilor, Jodie Jones, highlighted some of the issues

one term, feminism coins a collection of movements

that women in politics are still facing. Having been

that aim to seek and establish equal opportunities

exploited for her teenage past of being a normally

for women in education and employment. Early

university student that enjoyed alcohol and a social

development of such movements could be seen

life, Jones defended growing up and continued

in the changes in fashion in particular, during the

to represent her strong political opinions. She told

early 1900’s when corsetry was abandoned and

Stylist, “For me, there’s no conflict between being

replaced with a newer and less restrictive look. This

a woman and being a Conservative but, cuts have

freedom from constriction is one that relied on a

been made and yes, some have affected women.”

variety of changes that have occurred in history,

Although Jones stated that she would like to see

from the advancement in technology through to

more women in Parliament, she was adamant that

the development of social and political movements.

it did not make her a feminist. The strength of one such word has the ability to separate the views of

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In society today, a conservative viewpoint takes

an individual entirely, so much so that Jones had

the stance of disposition to remain loyal to what

to state that she was not a feminist. Are females

has been traditional in the past and restore the

bringing conservative values to politics simply

establishment to this in order to limit change. The

because of the society they have been bought up

principles and practices of political conservatives

in? Taking into consideration a woman’s upbringing

aims to enforce such traditions within in society

is something that can often be overlooked, but

namely tax systems and class value. Preserving

one should consider the influence of this from a

the old ways of life can however be dangerous

social conditioning viewpoint. The two values,

as such old ways allude to prejudice, racism and

conservative and feminist are extremely different

fascism and oppose the objective of sustaining a

but when it comes to politics are women seeking

uni-cultural society. In contrast, feminism seeks to

political ideologies, or representing feminists? There

change such ideals for the long term benefit of

is also the possibility that it can be a combination of

the future work and education of women and is

both, after all feminism in a post-modern context is


IMAGE BY RIGBY AND PELLER

UNDONE / 1


more about gaining fair representation for women

are still marginally earning less than men and are

in all aspects of society as opposed to anger against

suffering when it comes to issues such as rape and

the past.

minimal political representation. “The focus is why so many “feminist” debates tend to become lifestyle

Active feminist and author Naomi Wolf questions

discussions: should women have facelifts? What

whether women are in fact less apathetic towards

about hiring nannies? What about stay-at-home

feminist issues in the western world due to being

moms versus working mothers?” It is sad to think that

comfortable with the state of issues related to

feminism has coined such trivial issues that disregard

employment and education. Feminism ideals

actual female inequality as mentioned above.

however are more complex, and do not simply

Whilst a consumer society accounts for freedom of

restrict themselves to just these two categories. As

choice, it appears we are neglecting the original

Wolf recently stated in The Guardian, the feminism

intention of gaining a truer democracy, when other

we have inherited is also owed to advanced

nations are doing quite the opposite. For Wolf it is

capitalism. Following second wave feminism, when

clear that “Global feminism gets this, which is why

the 1949 book, The Second Sex by Simone de

you are seeing emerging global feminist leaders

Beauvoir was published, women in the west have

fighting for economic rights in western Africa,

become more apathetic to the movement. This can

for instance, to end genital mutilation in Mali, to

be owed to the assumption that the advancements

publish blogs in Cairo, to bring traffickers to justice in

already made in employment and education in

Bosnia.” Spreading the idea of feminism is all about

may perhaps suffice as achievement enough,

education.

despite statistics evidencing this as untrue. Men still out earn women by roughly twenty percentage

Moreover there are campaigns out there that

points and legally, only 6-12% of rapes in the UK

women should be encouraged to be involved in.

actually make it to trial. However this apathy may

Active feminist, Eve Ensler looks at feminism from a

also be seen as a reaction to women giving up on

more physical angle and attempted to understand

the idea of feminism in the Western world entirely,

the female psyche and has explored experiences

having felt like perhaps that they have gained all

of the body into her bestseller, The Vagina Monocles.

the rights they could possibly need. The consumer

The play assesses the relationships women have with

culture we live in accounts for this, and the postwar

their bodies, sexual experiences they encounter and

push for capitalism, targeted women who became

namely their vaginas and how women need to pay

enthralled by individual choice.

more attention the their surroundings: “Stop fixing your bodies and start fixing the world.” Is the view

“There’s no conflict between being a woman a n d b e i n g a C o n s e r vat i v e … ”

Ensler holds. The popularity of her play has led to the global campaign V-day in order to prevent violence and protect abused women. In this case Ensler has taken an active global approach to touch upon an issue that many women in the western world and there onwards can relate to. Conservatism aside, regardless of the many choices women have, there

In the same feature, Wolf writes of the stalling of

are the counter choices that they do not have,

feminism and questioned it’s future, evaluating all

and this coincides with Wolf’s view that we need to

strands of ever-growing complex. “The ‘so what’

pay a bit more attention to these issues instead of

feminism plateau is familiar to us in the west: forty

gaining fulfillment from material needs.

years after the second wave, the standstill is

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obvious.” She assesses that although there appears

Similarly, another global campaign: Slut Means

to have been advancements (specifically in the UK)

Speak Up, radically aim’s to stand up for rape victims

when it comes to things such abortion rights, women

of all races. As stated in their manifesto, “We believe


that rape is always the fault of the rapist, never the

representation in basic equal rights away from the

survivor. And until that attitude is held globally, we

influence of a capitalist society. This is not to say that

will continue to speak up.” Driven by the idea that

feminism has not come a long way since women

no one deserves to be raped despite how they

gained the right to vote in 1920, but instead to

choose to dress, the campaign organises a range

encourage women further not to become apathetic

of ‘SlutWalks’ all over the world for women to be

in a consumer dominated culture where it appears

involved in and to raise awareness to the public. By

everything is easily available to us all when often this

speaking out against rape, racism and violence, the

is not always the case. Post-modern attitudes do not

organisation seeks to encourage abused women to

want feminism to be seen as being anti-male, as

believe that they are no longer victims.

Wolf describes, it is simply engendering freedom and should not be confused as a battle of the sexes.

With both feminism and conservatism we often forget the underlying aim of democracy and achieving freedom for each individual. By re-evaluating our approach to specific issues, bearing the idea of freedom in mind it should be stated that the goal of women is not to be perceived as angry bra burning bitches, but instead to simply gain stronger

“Stop fixing your bodies and start fixing the world.” UNDONE / 23


BRIEF ENCOUNTER: DJ FEARNEY Dj’s, Decks & Dedication

PHOTO COURTESY OF DJ FEARNEY

“Whether you are just walking down the street or going to a party, I think it [underwear] is important.”

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London based female, yes female DJ Fearney is

Hosting the FHM party last year and working at

taking advantage of her technical skills to “wreak

Lovebox Festival are just a few of the highlights

havock on the dancefloor”. As well as a regular

of her career so far and the twenty something

radio show, you will find Fearney interviewing

year old sees no reason why more women can’t

upcoming artists such as Emeli Sande and Wretch

DJ if they want it enough. She goes on to say, “I

32, none of which came without initial difficulty or

still don’t think that women are equals in every

gender prejudice. “I have even had it where guys

situation which is unfortunate.” As for underwear,

could be in the club and they start touching all

“I’m going to go for a thong”, she exclaims, and

your equipment saying it should sound this like, or

when it comes to what she wants to see on the

it should sound like that. Now I think the more that

opposite sex? “It’s all about boxers, I am definitely

I am dj-ing, the more respected I am becoming.”

a boxers kind of girl, yes indeed.”


BRIEF ENCOUNTER: ALEXIS MABILLE X HOM Man Pants

IMAGE BY ALEXIS MABILLE

“Alexis Me Deshabille” “Alexis undresses me”, was the slogan on the

pushed the collection to explore what was inside,

first looks of his SS12 collection in Paris and thus

opposing his work so far. The vision of a summer

came the revelation of a new men’s underwear

spent by the seaside was executed through well-

collection. Alexis Mabille initially started his

cut boxers, briefs, and vests and robes all carrying

career with the bowtie, moving to womenswear,

an element of lightness. Frustrated at the current

menswear and couture collections, he has

distribution price of underwear, Mabille has taken

gone back to the designs of the simple piece. In

it under his wing to open the brand to an entirely

collaboration with French underwear brand Hom,

new market. The result is a personal collection that

Mabille left the runway in awe as models stripped

is new and organic to menswear, redefining the

their tops and trousers to reveal, well, pants to put

basic foundations of a man’s wardrobe and filling the

it simply. His interest in inner workings and structures

void that lies between sportswear and classic underwear.

UNDONE / 25


THE PERFECT BRA The faintest lustre of luxury can often be found in the simplest of items. From the style of the cup, to the motif and design of the piece itself to detail of the strap, the perfect bra is one that all women are in search of. Lingerie designers are not a rare occurrence in London, but Nichole de Carle is a true extraordinaire. Undone finds out why the masterfully designed collections by this unique brand are worth owning and why underwear is not merely for the bedroom. PHOTOS COURTESY OF NICHOLE DE CARLE LONDON

Not be confused with your average lingerie

Lingerie has the power to have an influence on

designer; Nichole de Carle is the embodiment

women, one that can create a second skin for

of the elegance and confidence that defines

the wearer as the pieces accencuate the body.

femininity.

the

“When you wear the right lingerie, and by that I

exploration of her royal Huguenot heritage that

Her

innovative

designs

are

mean something that fits perfectly and is beautifully

the Nichole de Carle design house will continue

designed, it makes you feel good, the sense of

develop as an artisan tradition into the next

empowerment you get can be priceless.” It is these

generation. Her designs are a great example

qualities that encourage women to embrace

that diamonds are simply not always for jewellery

underwear and hopefully become more selective

purposes and bondage has the ability to be

when investing in certain pieces and consider that

translated into sheer sophistication.

they are not just everyday staple items. “The right underwear has the ability to completely transform

Having graduated from the unique Contour

a woman’s’ temperament, morphing her into

Design course at De Montford University in

a highly sophisticated, seductive, elegant and

England, Nichole de Carle quickly utilised her

even stronger woman.” This of course is all entirely

skills in body contour and lingerie fit. Applying

dependent on the individuals style.

her talents at world-renowned design houses

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such as Alexander McQueen and Donna Karan

At Nichole de Carle you will find that pieces

where she realised her dream to work for herself.

are not limited to certain figures but instead the

The brand Nichole de Carle was born in 2001

brand embraces the female form with every

and specialised in crafting lingerie and bespoke

single voluptuous curve that it comes with. Often

pieces. It is from her strong Huguenot heritage that

women can be disheartened when they feel that

de Carle draws inspiration from and embodies

there is not a brand that can cater for their body

the literature, history and architecture of her

and this is where a bespoke service can be seen

roots within her designs. “Materials and shapes

as beneficial. “The bespoke services offered to

evolved a lot throughout the years following the

our clients provides the perfect opportunity for

social evolution of women.” Allowing the brand

them to have something that is extra special and

to explore the craft of lingerie further. Attention

completely unique to them. I believe the statistic

to detail is a key component to de Carle and

is something like 85% of women wear the wrong

is clearly evident in her crafts, which embody

sized bra so by having our bespoke fitting, we

elegance and style using the finest of materials

can tailor make pieces to a clients exact sizing

during the production process. The rich tastes

specification.” For de Carle, when it comes to

of the brand are heavily reflected in the unique

lingerie: “Never underestimate the power of a well fitted

pieces that de Carle creates, giving each item a

bra.” Quality of over quantity is a valid reason to spend

timeless, luxurious quality.

money on good support, which is not always just physical.


UNDONE / 1


Contrary to popular belief, sex appeal is not

seductiveness and sexiness. By comparison our

always the first priority when it comes to luxury

Opal collection is a lot more demure catering for

lingerie garments. “Our Opal range for example,

clients who are looking for an everyday luxury that

has a stronger classical aesthetic with an

is much more simple in design- elegant, classy and

emphasis on everyday luxury. The pieces are by

sophisticated.” Lingerie has the ability to capture

comparison to our Onyx range, more subdued

changing underwear moods whilst being able to

focusing instead on the overall fit and feel.” It is

respond accordingly to any occasion.

these aspects that allude to the idea that only

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the wearer can put a price on how they want

One of these moods is none other than sex appeal.

undergarments to make them feel. “Certainly,

The notion that sex sells is one that appears in almost

the style of intimates that you choose to wear can

every industry today and is not limited to fashion

play a massive part in altering your persona.” The

only. “Some lingerie brands build their strategy

underwear choices made by the wearer often

around eroticism and sex, however, you can also

have the ability to evoke a different persona and

sell lingerie emphasising on the elegance, the

identity. There will be days when the comfort of

seduction and the beauty of it which is a notion

knickers cannot be found in anything else. De

that Nichole de Carle London pushes.” The use of

Carle is able to separate such ideas into her

art and architecture as inspiration for the brand’s

signature SS12 collections: “Our Onyx collection

designs is a consistent feature throughout the

for example is very fashion-forward with a strong

collections. The brand resides to a delicious colour

design

palette of black, ivory and nougat and strong

aesthetic

that

exudes

confidence,


juxtaposed lines and bondage straps. Nichole de Carle manages to create an individual identity and illustrates the intellectual depths behind the designs. The opportunity to wear the pieces as outerwear as well as underwear gives room to be creatively free and experiment with androgynous ideals that have made a strong impression within

“Femininity is above all a question of a woman’s c o n f i d e n c e a n d at t i t u d e in life.”

womenswear today. Being a post-modern woman carries a different

always get from classic items such as the LBD.

meaning than it previously used to. “Femininity is

“One of my most important beliefs is for everyone

above all a question of a woman’s confidence

to throw out the notion that lingerie is something

and attitude in life.” Again something reflected

to be kept behind a closed bedroom door.” There

heavily in her collections. It is this attitude that

are so many fantastic styles and designs to choose

can have altering effects and opinions on the

from these days, it seems a shame for them to

individual’s own body. The brand is an education

remain hidden under clothes and not receive the

of what underwear is really about encouraging

same ovation as other fashions.”

customers to develop the desire for this same passion. “Wearing luxury lingerie that is specifically

And for the consumer that may feel they

designed to compliment your body, enhances

appreciate the brand but cannot necessarily

a woman’s confidence and self-assures them.”

afford it there is the added benefit of a recently

When it comes to being educated on the correct

launched online bespoke experience as an

lingerie, a lot of women shy away from the topic

alternative. “Through it, we bring to our fans

and as a result do not always get the best from

affordable bespoke luxury.” The main reason

what is going on underneath their clothes. This can

behind the success of Nichole de Carle is due

lead to always wearing the wrong size and most of

to the woman herself. As a designer that has in-

all becoming apathetic in wanting to feel good or

depth experience in the field of contour design,

gain extra confidence. “As opposed to the years

de Carle knows the body and it’s needs. “I’m

of corsetry, underwear is no longer considered

the kind of person who cannot go home till she

by women as a constraint.” Such qualities have

has finished everything she has to do.” This is

allowed women to embrace lingerie further as

what de Carle makes of the word Undone and

opposed to being forced to wear impractical

not wanting to leave anything unfinished and

corsets.

has in turn revolutionised the concept of lingerie design whether you choose to wear it inside owes

or out. Nichole de Carle allows the woman to

gratification to the alluring collections of Jean

be sexy without being overt, a timeless quality

Paul Gaultier whose cone bra became as

that resonates strongly through careful tailoring

infamous as the image of Madonna wearing it for

techniques. The result is confidence at the highest

a performance. The shift of lingerie making it’s way

possible level, which instantly becomes a natural

out of the drawers especially towards the spring/

enhancement of a woman’s feminine qualities. In

summer season has popularised making the most

the future, Nichole de Carle will be collaborating

of displaying the beauty of the bra underneath

with Dutch diamond company Coster Diamonds

a sheer blouse. In the same way it seems that

to develop a range of exquisite diamond

de Carle’s elegant creations have the ability to

embellished knickers which will be exclusive to

transform themselves into both underwear and

Selfridges. The price of beauty is nowhere near as

outerwear, adding a sexiness that you cannot

important as the price of confidence.

The

underwear

as

outerwear

trend

UNDONE / 29


There was nothing abnormal about the eighteenth century aristocratic man who wore stockings upon his legs which is a far cry from the norms of today where it is predominantly women who all succumb to filling up the their hosiery drawers. Originally, it was seen as an upper class notion for the elite aristocracy to bare their legs in white or coloured stockings whilst the lower classes were restricted to black coloured tights, showcasing their positions on the social ladder. Hosiery – a termed coined to describe the covering of the legs and feet - has been a pinnacle piece of the wardrobe since the mid 1300’s, when tights translucently swarmed over the whole of western Europe. However, at this point in history they appeared in the form of bandage material tied with scraps of animal remains or any other materials that would suffice as a replacement, a little different to how we use hosiery now. The revolutionary twenties bought with it dropped waistlines and headdresses and stockings became mandatory. At this stage tights were in the form of synthetic yarns allowing women to further embrace their new looks devoid of corsets and full skirts. At long last hosiery was sheerer than cotton and indefinitely cheaper than silk, a bonus during the time of a post-war recession. Fishnets then made their way into women’s dressers hook, line and sinker, in the thirties. By the time Mary Quant introduced the mini skirt to swinging London, nylon tights were well underway and stretched along the art deco skirt styles that accompanied them.

In various forms of tights, hold-ups, stockings, leggings, socks and knee-highs, hosiery in an array of styles have managed to become iconic. Such tight-fitting pieces reside in day-to-day wear and as a result have had the ability to be either underwear or outerwear or combined, providing a versatile quality that not many other garments have the luxury of possessing. Whether you are a 15 or 40 denier woman, where would we be without our nifty sock and tights needs, of which we owe it all to the many hosiers that supply maximum leg coverage to us today - snags not included. Indeed hosiery comes with the constant strain of pulling them up but at least women can get their pins out in the coldest of temperatures and embrace the shortest of hemlines.

UNDONE / 31

IMAGE BY CHARNOS HOSIERY

HOSIERY

MOMENT

UNDERWEAR

It was not long after that the late sixties inscribed prints and patterns on our favourite leg and foot garments thanks to the likes of Pretty Polly and once Lycra was produced, it changed the way hosiery was manufactured forever. Today, tights are soft and perfectly fitted, just the way they should be and modern day brands have really embraced the trend in their own right. One such example was the successful collaboration when Wolford took their undeniable seductive designs and attention to detail to Vivienne Westwood. More recently, the modern introduction of the Platino cleancut style has meant the eradication of the waistline altogether, giving seamless tights to all. Platino’s use of laser cut technology has made it easier to slip into these sheer sensations that are complete with an invisible waistband.


THE WOMAN UNDONE AYISHAT AKANBI Next time you find yourself flicking through the latest celebrity gossip magazine or watch the stars on the television pay close attention to what they are wearing. Now consider that behind each piece they are wearing there has been a decision made by someone else on the selection of that item. The role of the stylist to the celebrity is one that has had such a great impact in this burgeoning industry that it has become a household name. Undone speaks to empowering stylist Ayishat Akanbi about what makes a stylist today, dressing others and purchasing her client’s underwear. PHOTOS BY AYISHAT AKANBI 

Sitting in her South London office, Ayishat Akanbi

in the same building she had once interned in for

closed her Mac book pro ready to focus her

someone else. For Akanbi the journey began as a

attention on our interview. She looks as I have

recommendation, “A lot of people had told me

always remembered. Her androgynous image

to go into fashion but I was like I can’t sew and I

was as usual on point, and sharp as she rocked (like

haven’t studied it and it’s not going to happen.”

only she can) a men’s denim Aztec gilet, tapered

With a background in a degree in English, Akanbi

trousers and the latest trainers. In five short words,

pushed her boundaries, overcame self-doubt

she describes her style as: “Hip-hop androgyny

and decided to help a few friends out in the old

meets the nineties.” And giggles. We met two

fashionable way of assisting where possible. From

years ago; outside of Topshop Oxford Circus

a female perspective, just what was it that initially

where we stopped each other simultaneously for

attracted her to menswear styling? “It’s just what

street style pictures; great minds do think alike.

I am more interested in. It’s the way that I dress

And here we are two years later, Ayishat in her

in a lot of menswear and maybe just because I

own office, full to the brim with rails of clothes and

am a woman I look at menswear with a different

the first ever mood board she made for singing

eye and I almost dress every man as my ideal

sensation Labrinth displayed as a proud reminder

man, whatever that genre may be.” I nod in

of the start of her styling career. Ayishat cultivates

agreement, because with so much choice out

the way young people in fashion dress today and

there for womenswear, the opportunity to explore

is the embodiment of everything fashion attempts

menswear is one that women should be more

to teach others not to be.

willing to be subjected to or are willing to try their hands at.

A stylist today is someone who understands

32 / UNDONE

the relationship between human personality

The saying that behind every man is a great

and how this correlates with clothing. Humble is

woman is true when it comes to the work Akanbi

the one of the words that comes to mind when

has done for British musical talent Labrinth. With

describing Akanbi. After offering me a range of

his urban meets pop vibe, she has managed to

drinks and making sure I was comfortable (as her

fuse the two genres giving him a look as unique

job focuses on the comfort of others), we began

as his eclectic sound. When they first met she

discussing just how she got here, her own office

recalls that “He wasn’t signed at the time, he’d


“ I a m d e f i n i t e ly a m o r e style over fashion type of person, to me style comes from within.�


always been producing and he decided that he

artists. Before she showed up with the shopping

wanted to become an artist. He was going into

bags and ideas, it appears that the Labrinth we

all these meetings where people were saying we

see in the public eye today, the tailored chap

love your music, they just didn’t see him as an

with sartorial elegance was not so clued up on

artist.” And this was where Akanbi came in, “So I

fashion as he now seems. “He was wearing jeans

was like, why don’t you try sorting out your image

that were like a size 36/38 and he’s a size 32, so

and try getting a look together and I proposed

I told him about size.” And clearly that was the

to do that for them so I made a mood board.”

beginning of many style lessons to come.

It was this simple mood board that gained the

36 / UNDONE

attention and recognition that Akanbi needed to

I mentioned how far she had come, with Labrinth

launch her career. So when Simon Cowell signed

being recognised by GQ as one of the stylish

Labrinth, there was no question that his most

men of the year. “That was definitely the highlight

valuable style accessory would go with him. Her

of my year. Like before I started doing my own

extensive knowledge on brands and personal

freelance stuff I wanted to style somewhere like

style have all helped contribute to the work she

GQ, like I’d love to be an in-house stylist there so

has done for Labrinth and other up and coming

when they picked him as one of the stylish men of


2012 I was over the moon. That was incredible.”

group called The Rascals. With Ms. Dynamite, she is

Amongst Akanbi’s many style influences, there

a living legend in the UK I think, she’s been around

are a few who have engrained themselves in her

for ages I grew up listening to her music so being

style bible. “There’s this guy, Nick Wooster, he’s

able to work with her is mind blowing so I just want

my style icon, the epitome of everything stylish to

do something with her that has never been seen

me. He is just amazing”, she exclaims in the most

before and that’s with everyone else.” Akanbi also

dream like tone you would expect to hear from a

likes to “give the little guys a try.” And broadens

teenager gushing over a new crush or favourite

her horizons by wanting to use new design talent

band. That’s the other thing about Akanbi; her

to bring into her styling work.

inspiration dominates how she visualises styling and what she finds to be appealing. Prior to the re-invention of Labrinth, Akanbi set out to build on experience with a host of other projects under her wing. Working along another stylist, Louize, the duo quickly became recognised for their signature styles and contribution to

“Femininity is above all a question of a woman’s c o n f i d e n c e a n d at t i t u d e in life.”

a collective dedicated to menswear entitled ‘Individualism’. “I am definitely a more style over

Alongside this Akanbi has seen her style influences

fashion type of person, to me style comes from

trickle down onto the high street, with items like

within.” When it comes to meeting a client, “It is

the bow tie becoming synonymous with Labrinth’s

really important for me to have a day with them

wardrobe. Her top tip is simple, “Know your size.

before we start work to find out what the like

Get it right and buys clothes that fit. It makes all

and what they dislike and just clothes it could be

of the difference.” Commitment to your style is

anything like their favourite films or what they like

an important aspect when it comes to buying

to eat, by finding out more about their personality

clothes. The future for this bright star sees a styling

will allow you to kind of see what’s really right for

super team travelling over the pond to LA or New

them.” This interactive approach is what really

York allowing her to take on more work. Eventually

allows Akanbi to get to know her client and their

though she has heart set on her own menswear

needs. “If I was just to put someone in the latest

brand. “That’s the goal.”

trend I don’t think they would necessarily pull it off as well and it just looks really contrived and

Akanbi’s assertive attitude and determination

fake.” For Individualism a similar attitude is carried

is what will carry her through to becoming an

out, “I do the products of the week and I am also

influential styling hero. Think of the Jefferson Hack,

starting up a new post where every week I’ll work

John Rankin and Katie England fashion super

with a different photographer in creating a shoot

team when Dazed and Confused was born and

based on whatever has inspired me that week.”

the future looks optimistic. Rising each morning,

Exploiting menswear at it’s best is where this

“Wanting to do better. Wanting to improve each

budding stylist’s talent really exudes.

day, wanting to make each day count.” Is well worth getting out of bed for and should be seen

Halfway through our interview, Akanbi’s Blackberry

as an encouragement to others especially those

buzzes for her attention and continues to do so. Not

who feel fashion is restricted to the elite. I ask her

once however does she turn her focus to her phone,

one last question about what the word Undone

as I proceed to ask her about her current work

means to her personally? “I think it means to be

and upcoming projects. “At the moment I have

continued.” With that, I am left feeling optimistic

been working with Chiddy Bang, Ms. Dynamite,

just as I did the first time we had met, knowing to

Etta Bond, and I am starting to work with a new

expect more big things from Miss Ayishat Akanbi.

UNDONE / 37


BRIEF ENCOUNTER: THE LINGERIE COLLECTIVE The Brassiere Boutique

IMAGE BY THE LINGERIE COLLECTIVE

“The Lingerie Collective specialises in the very best of British and International independent, directional lingerie brands.”

38 / UNDONE

At the heart of Carnaby Street in the hustle and bustle

Things to name a few, you should note that everything

of London’s West End, lies a small boutique devoted

visible has been carefully selected. Unique is definitely

not just to underwear, but lingerie that entice all

a key word to describe the small, intimate space that

women persuading them to want to invest. You will

embraces fashion lingerie in its entirety. We are all

find The Lingerie Collective at number 8 Ganton

too familiar with wearing the wrong size and that’s

Street providing the best of directional underwear

where a special bra fitting service comes in. When

labels from traditional British to international brands.

a crowded department store simply doesn’t cut it,

Upon entering the contemporary boudoir, you will

The Lingerie Collective is the place to go especially

be greeted with delicately arranged rails carrying

for the confident and sexy that seek pleasure and

anything from Bordelle, Mint Siren and Dirty Pretty

enjoyment from her lingerie.


BRIEF ENCOUNTER: BIANCA LA PORTA The Contour Design Student

IMAGE COURTESY OF BIANCA LA PORTA

“I like pushing the boundaries of what lingerie should be and how it should be worn. Why do we where it under our clothes? I want to create garments women want to be seen in.” It is the first year that students from the London

shortlisted candidate in an exclusive competition.

College of Fashion will graduate from the BA Contour

“My graduate collection is all about sculpting the

Design course amongst which will be the talented

contours of the body with delicate laser cut leather

Bianca La Porta. Heavily inspired by the female form

and macramé fringing: sexy cut outs, scalloped

and silhouette, La Porta is driven by her desire to

harnessed leather shapes and jewellery features add

create a confidence through lingerie in both men

a provocative edginess.” What you can expect from

and women. “I think the most important underwear

La Porta’s hand designed pieces is a reflection of

‘do’ is to actually buy lingerie that fits and sculpts

her love for intricacy and detail in both beauty and

the body.” Exceeding student expectations, last

design. No doubt the future sees this bright young

summer saw La Porta’s pieces exhibited in London

bra star bringing her signature ‘Magpie’ beaded

boutique, The Lingerie Collective after being a

brassiere to an underwear drawer near you.

UNDONE / 39


II G E T

TIGHT

Photographer: Rashid Babiker Stylist: Hardeep Gill Model: Abbey cox

There is something empowering about unfurling a new set of tights, before carefully peeling them up a leg that has been waiting to be covered in refined luxury. Word of warning, be careful not to snag.

40 / UNDONE


Tights by Wolford for Vivienne Westwood


Blue Tourquoise tights, Falke R e d H e a r t t i g h t s , P r e t t y P o l ly Shoes, Christian Louboutin


O r a n g e n e o n t i g h t s , Ta b i o B l a c k & n u d e t i g h t s , E m i l i o C ava l l i n i


Tights, FASTER BY MARK FAST Shoes, Christian Louboutin


UNDERWEAR, Faster by Mark Fast Tights, Wolford for Vivienne Westwood


Zig Zag tights, Wolford Shoes, Christian Louboutin


Pink striped tights, House of Holland Hotpants, Faster by Mark Fast Shoes, Christian Louboutin


Tights, Wolford Shoes, Christian Louboutin


Star tights, House of Holland


Metallic sheer tights, Falke Wedge Shoes, Christian Louboutin


L e o p a r d p r i n t t i g h t s , E m i l i o C ava l l i n i Shoes, Christian Louboutin


Tye dye tights, Topshop


Coloured pastel tights, Calzedonia Shoes, Christian Louboutin


Orange and Fuchsia tights, Falke Diagonal Black tights, Wolford Shoes, Christian Louboutin


Coloured pastel tights, Calzedonia Wedge Shoes, Christian Louboutin

UNDONE / 63


ALL WALKS, ALL BODIES caryn franklin “I use the word Undone to describe my emotions when I feel vulnerable or weak.” We caught up with fashion’s multi-talented Caryn Franklin to get the latest from All Walks Beyond the Catwalk and to uncover whether fashion really is the lens through which we evaluate our identity. The highly successful stylist, editor, TV presenter and journalist discusses the refinement of fashion education and why being taught the history of this is extremely important. PHOTOS BY ALLWALKS.ORG

Plucking up the courage to dial the number to

Franklin at the time, she would spend the next

Caryn Franklin’s direct line is something that I

twenty years at. Having co-edited the magazine

struggled doing, even more so with additional

in the eighties, I wonder if Franklin knew then that

nerves pressuring me into a setback. Franklin

her ideas about body image would land her in

you see is a very busy woman. Her campaign

one of the most influential roles in her career thus

for All Walks Beyond the Catwalk is an award

far. With that in mind, I re-dialed the number,

winning initiative seeking to place diversity within

pressed the call button and took a deep breath.

the industry as well as management of her own

“Hi Caryn, how are you?”

blog: How to look good sees that her schedule remains occupied and pretty hectic. Therefore

Even over the phone I could picture the writer

you immediately know that when she tells you

composed with her slick back hair, glasses and

call her and leave no messages until she answers,

draped in all black. A busy Franklin waited

every second for the duration of that phone call

patiently on the line whilst I attempted to re-jog

counts.

her memory regarding who I was. “Ahh yes”, she finally exclaimed and with that, our interview, or

Franklin began her career in the industry following

should I say phone conversation was underway.

a degree in Graphic Design from the renowned Central St Martins and an eventful internship at

In a short period of time, All Walks.org has

i-D magazine, a publication that unknowingly to

managed

to

infiltrate

the

fashion

industry

UNDONE / 65


“At All Walks we believe women don’t just need to see curvy…”

The first active All Walks campaign set out to bring awareness to the above raised issues. The inclusion of all industry participants, from designers,

to

models

and

photographer’s

resulted in an eight-page editorial featured in i-D magazine. Shot by renowned photographer Kayt Jones and including models that represented as

through the promotion of a variety of body and beauty ideals as close to reality as possible, a concept that imagery in the fashion industry is currently lacking. Born in May 2009 between Debra Bourne, model Erin O’Connor and Caryn Franklin, All Walks has since become their baby in which the production of different campaigns have been created to change the stereotypical unachievable imagery we see everyday in the industry. Instead of promoting digitally enhanced women, All Walks aims to be as realistic as possible by using catwalk models, who are real women too, from all different shapes, sizes, ages and backgrounds. By broadening the imagery that we see, the initial campaign has been a large stepping-stone in gaining the attention of the so-called fash pack that abide by the ‘thin is in’ ideal. It is this idea that is so engrained within people’s minds, especially the youth that it is almost impossible to ignore the prevailing of body consciousness and image within society today. For Franklin, the development of the Internet has been a large part of the reason why women are seeing so many unachievable images of supposed beauty. Today it has the power to

much diversity as possible from different races, sizes, shapes and ages was by far a success. All Walks does not simply focus on the size zero debate single handedly but instead on the idea of creating complete diversity within the fashion industry. “I think on the one hand the catwalk has become less empathetic with it (the body), and on the other hand there are lots of small companies who are very empathetic with body types trying to provide solutions.” Explains Franklin. By starting with small ideas such as the representation of older and racially diverse models, All Walks has managed to create a strong presence that has the individual actually questioning whether the images they have typically been subjected too are actually achievable or realistic. “At All Walks we believe women don’t just need to see curvy, healthy women in fashion imagery, and they also need to see beauty as it ages. They need to be reassured that you don’t drop off the planet after forty. And that getting older doesn’t stop any women from enjoying the way she looks in great clothes. Adding curvy and older models to the mix was, we felt, a considerate thing to do.”

broadcast ‘fashion’ images in a way that women were never subjected to prior to this. “So I think it plays a really big role because designers use the catwalk image as a way of broadcasting values about their brand and they don’t really take into account that they are also broadcasting values about the body.” It is these so called values that the tumblr generation is being subjected to

“Adding curvy and older m o d e l s t o t h e m i x wa s , w e f e l t , a c o n s i d e r at e thing to do.”

and the time really has come for the media and

66 / UNDONE

consumers alike to question why it is they feel

With two successful campaigns under it’s wing

they need to look a certain way. With the tumblr

and regular talks at universities, the future looks

girls consistently re-blogging so called thin figures,

bright for the campaign. “Well, the immediate

they are in fact spreading these ideas further.

future is our competition diversity now, which we


will launch in June at GFW to encourage image

Franklin really is the epitome of empowerment

makers, designers, writers and stylists to think

within the industry, who has taken her wealth

about diversity and to promote it from the all walks

of experience and used it to make an actual

platform,� again with the aid of i-D magazine.

difference. This image-saturated world we live

With the support of designers such as Mark Fast,

in will not be reverted back in time, but there is

who featured plus size models on the runway a

always the chance to allow people to view things

few seasons ago, attention has been brought to

in a different light and aspire to something similar

the notion of how the body makes demands on

to the everyday reality.

designs which is extremely important and often overlooked. Designers are usually focusing their

With that said, I thanked Franklin for her time and

designs around a particular sized mannequin

expressed my appreciation for her achievements

and not real women, immediately making

of which in due turn she replied with a tone of

the designs lacking in practicality. The unity of

gratification. The admirable work that All Walks

Bourne, O’Connor and Franklin has meant the

have achieved in such a short period of time is

encouragement of releasing women from the

encouraging in allowing women to become

sedation that the media has saturated them in.

more involved in what they see when they open

Gone are the hay days of imagery being a simple

up a fashion magazine. It goes back to age old

combination of light and exposure - today’s

idea of providing awareness, a torch that Franklin

obsessive society strongly desires to replicate

carries successfully as well as sincerely.

exactly what they perceive to be beautiful.

UNDONE / 67


BRIEF ENCOUNTER: LUCIAN FREUD Flesh Works

IMAGE BY THE NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY

“As far as I’m concerned the paint is the person. I want it to work for me just as flesh does.” LUCIAN FREUD (NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY)

68 / UNDONE

The National Portrait Gallery is currently exhibiting

mother Lucie, there is also a strong sense of his

over seven decades of work from the twentieth

friendships with other admirals such as David

century’s favourite realist, Lucian Freud. The

Hockney, Sir Francis Bacon and Leigh Bowery to

collection presents 130 works of Freud’s that

name a few. Freud’s works give an immortalised

all tell a story of his life and portray his ability

feeling of what took place in his very private

to be the modern master of figuration, as he is

studios that were often of a very simple setting

often described. His significant portraiture work

and more about the sitter than anything else

reflected his passion for defining the human

that could be a distraction. The realist manages

flesh and figure as close to reality as possible,

to uncover a sense of secrecy about his subjects

almost so much so that you can feel the blood

without really giving much away, becoming

rushing to the face of the subjects that sat for

part of the intensity of observation that Lucian

him. Amongst close family, his children and

Freud painted.


BRIEF ENCOUNTER: MARLIES DEKKERS Undressed

IMAGE BY MARLIES DEKKERS

“Innerwear as Outerwear” Since 1993, Dutch lingerie designer Marlies Dekkers

femininity with an unashamed prettiness is what

has pioneered the underwear as outerwear

all women seek when they have the desire to be

concept. Her inspirational designs have changed

sexy and is not without the role of seduction. And

the world of lingerie forever and have been

what is Dekkers searching for? The answer always

imprinted on the modern woman. A recent

remains the same; she is seeking the perfect fit.

biographical film describes the inspiration behind

Changing the course of the typical use of lace,

her work: “All her designs are inspired by her own

Dekker’s looks for the best way to frame something

vision on life, and she wants to give women more

in a very linear form, and signature to this is her use

self confidence.” It is Undressed however, Dekkers’

of straps that crossover at the back. For Dekkers,

very own lingerie line whereby she uses the

“It’s all about the underwire which pushes the

body as a canvas, that sets her apart from most

breast back into the shape it’s meant to have, the

lingerie brands. Her combination of a provocative

shape you had when you were still 15.”

UNDONE / 69


THE SOCK SHOP “What happened to the trusty sock shop?� IMAGE BY MADEINCHINA.COM

If ever there was a ladder emergency or a time when the rain was so heavy it filled the contents of your shoes, you could always rely on the trusty sock shop or shack that resided peacefully outside pretty much every tube station in London. Today, with no room for the small businessperson it appears there is no avoiding popping into a large corporate chain for your hosiery emergency. The little pop up shop appears to have disappeared asking the question where does the future lie for our instant sock needs. Although modern technology aims to account for convenience, how convenient is to have to travel to the beloved traffic grid that is Oxford Circus for a quick sock pick? The sad truth is; gone are the days of the one-penny sweet, 30 pence newspaper and the corner stand, as modern day consumerism has taken away the pop sock shop. When all one seeks is simple leg coverage they may find themselves spending an arm and leg in Wolford to compensate.

UNDONE / 71


BRIEF ENCOUNTER: KYLE HOPKINS Clasps Undone

IMAGE BY KYLE HOPKINS

“I think people who wear my jewellery want to be noticed, but don’t want to be noticed for the sake of being noticed.”

72 / UNDONE

Jewellery designer Kyle Hopkins made his debut

expressing himself on his context.” Hopkins simply

at LFW two seasons ago and has since imprinted

wants his intricate designs to be an extension

his concept-led notion of what he wants

of the wearer and “there is a clear difference

jewellery to mean to others. Burying himself in his

between mass market jewellery and what I want

work the view Hopkin’s gets from his East London

to do.” More so Hopkins sees empowerment

studio is, “people’s feet mainly, as my studio is in

as a responsibility for his successes and failures,

a basement.” Growing up and making jewellery,

which clearly pushes him through a busy period

Hopkins learnt the techniques required for the

of processing demanding orders and planning a

trade from the age of five upwards. For SS12,

menswear collection with no day of rest: “I work

“The Botanicals collection was inspired by the

seven days a week, so on Sundays I will be in the

idea that a garden is man’s most direct way of

studio at some point.”


BRIEF ENCOUNTER: MARK FAST Even Faster

IMAGE BY MARK FAST

“It’s like wearing a new perfume; it takes you different places.” Canadian knitwear designer Mark Fast left his

enhance what you already have.” His innovative

small hometown of Winnipeg and dashed to

stitching techniques see the combination of

London to study at Central Saint Martins. His

blending lycra with wool in order to create

work has seen him cleverly revive knitwear

a range of volumes over the body. Having

fashion that is so close to British heritage.

designed a range of knitted underwear pieces

“There are so many things about the freedom

for Faster by Mark Fast, Fast sees the importance

of working with women’s clothes has. There

of women experimenting with lingerie. “It’s a

is so much more you can experiment with,

way of feeling good about yourself and the

because the female form is so curvy and fluid.”

body. I feel it’s important to accept everything

Fast forms his designs onto the body as he’s

you have and experiment with it and find

knits because “knitwear is body enhancing; it

yourself.” The future for this knitwear genius sees

can stretch over the body, around the curves.

the brand exploring fashion, film and music, all

It’s not about altering but creating pieces that

of which Fast is an avid fan of.

UNDONE / 73


IN YOUR WEAR A Manifesto

We, the undersigned, are the underwearers who have been bought up in a world to believe that perfection of the body can only be achieved in a certain way. The apparatus of advertising that is imprinted upon us has ensured that we effectively believe that being thin and digitally edited is the only way to be. In this same world, lingerie is only appealing if it is selling sex. These techniques undermine our intelligence and desire to be happy with what we do have. We have been exploited through media saturation and publications that are devoted to selling us an image that is not always real. It is these agencies that have spent a great time and effort advertising trivial products to us but from here on now, it is our decision to step out of the trance and into the light for our own beliefs and purposes. It is these ideals that we have in turn formed common thread with the general public who have decided to henceforth put the needs of our bodies first in order to benefit and progress for the future. By no demand do we advocate that the industry erase all edited imagery, this not realistic nor what we are aiming for. Instead we are proposing that we use our intellect to differentiate between what we see in such imagery and how we can appreciate instead of trying to imitate. We hope that our society will start to take such ideas into consideration and therefore prevent younger generations from seeking all sorts of means to replicate what the media allows them to see. With this is mind, we propose to open others’ minds to a variety of ideas of what the body really is and how each individual has the right to be comfortable in their own skin.

Undone Magazine

74 / UNDONE


STOCKISTS

Agent Provocateur

www.agentprovocateur.com

Alexis Mabille

www.alexismabille.com

Aubade

www.aubade.com

Calzedo

nia www.calzedonia.it

Christian Louboutin

www.christianlouboutin.com

Emilio Cavallini

www.emiliocavallini.com

Falke Fleur of England House of Holland

www.falke.com www.fleurofengland.com

www.houseofholland.co.uk

Kyle Hopkins

www.kylehopkins.co.uk

La Perla

Lisa Charmel Mark Fast

www.laperla.com www.lisacharmel.com

www.markfast.net

Marlies Dekkers

www.marliesdekkers.com

Nichole de Carle

www.nicholedecarle.com

Pretty Polly

www.prettypolly.co.uk

Rigby & Peller

www.rigbyandpeller.com

Tabio

Topshop

Vivienne Westwood Wolford

www.tabio.com www.topshop.com

www.viviennewestwood.co.uk www.wolfordshop.co.uk

UNDONE / 75



Undone Magazine