84 Fashion
classic piece
John Smedley ‘Isis’ polo ome clothing items really do speak of a particular place and time. For Umbrella, the ‘Eton-collared’ Smedley polo is especially resonant of the ’90s, particularly in London, where architects and designers pioneered a new ‘smart-casual’ look that paired a three-button suit with the Isis. Like many men’s fashion trends of this most underrated of decades it’s stayed with us ever since. Of course, the item didn’t appear from nowhere. John Smedley have been making undergarments in cotton, silk and wool since 1784, but it was only in the 1930s that, seeing the popularity of René Lacoste’s cotton pique tennis shirt, they decided to move into outerwear. The first three-button polo, the ‘C255’, appeared in 1934. From this period on, the garment was manufactured under various guises, and mostly aimed at prosperous American customers. However, in 1972, as the market for leisurewear increased in the UK, the company decided to concentrate their efforts on this most unassuming of designs. Today, marking the item’s 40th anniversary, Smedley say: “The classic polo shirt that the company designed for spring 1972 was based on a 40-year-old design that had stood the test of time and been perfected in terms of practicality, luxury and quality. Made of the finest sea island cotton, the samples, in 13 colours, were ready a year in advance. All that was needed was name. They chose ‘Isis’.” Since then, the shirt has been a staple in many a man’s wardrobe, from do-or-die mods in the early ’80s to cappuccino-supping, web designers of the 2010s. Whether worn with jeans and loafers as part of a holiday outfit or under a fitted suit for work, it exudes a feeling of softly-spoken sophistication. And like all true classics it simply cannot be improved up. A true gem. The John Smedley ‘Isis’ polo is priced at £115 www.johnsmedley.com
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