winter2021.ultratravel.com

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WINTER 2022

THE JOY OF DISCOVERY

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S P L E N D O U R : D E S T I N A T I O N S A N D

E X P E R I E N C E S

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PLUS: T H E N E W S PAC E R AC E G R E E N E R PA S T U R E S C R U I S I N G ’ S N E X T WAV E SWISS MOVEMENTS THE ROAD TO PERFECTION

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A FAMILY STORY Yasmin and Amber Le Bon wear Be Boodles


Patina Maldives, Fari Islands

The world’s most exclusive hotels, resorts and palaces. Now in one collection. GHA DISCOVERY app

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Close your eyes and imagine your paradise. What do you see? A heritage-filled city … an aquatic escape … a treetop hideaway … an alpine retreat? Whatever your dream, it's waiting for you inside Ultratravel Collection, an elite circle of GHA DISCOVERY hotels for visionary travellers. When you stay at any Ultratravel Collection hotel, you can rest assured you’re enjoying a level of luxury that goes beyond thread counts. Breathtaking surroundings. Location-inspired dining, spa and leisure. Insider access to local culture. Timeless elegance and attention to detail. All with GHA DISCOVERY's generous benefits and rewards. You've seen the world, yes. But have you seen it like this? Explore Ultratravel Collection today and find your paradise.


Australia • Bangladesh • Canada • China • Indonesia • Japan • Malaysia • Myanmar • Singapore • Thailand • United Kingdom • United States • Vietnam


A luxuriant haven in the city where you set your own pace 80 HOUNDSDITCH, LONDON, EC3A 7AB PANPACIFICLONDON.COM


MAKE A

W I T H K E MPINS K I


THE JOY OF DISCOVERY

“After a retrenchment, golf is back and surging in popularity around the globe” (page 38) INSIDE THIS ISSUE 11 • Editor’s Letter

23 • Moving Up

38 • The Perfect Approach

New horizons

Sports chronographs of the highest order have become the wristwatches of the hour. By Chris Hall

Breathtaking new course locations combined with brilliant architects are putting the swing back in golf. By Larry Olmsted

12 • In Good (Travelling ) Company VIP experiences come as standard with DISCOVERY, Global Hotel Alliance’s revamped loyalty programme. By Rob Crossan

26 • Be Here Now

42 • Flexi Beast

On the lookout for Destination 2022? You’ll find it in our list of top international hot spots. By Lauren Ho

The fifth-generation Range Rover is a major turning point for the esteemed motor-vehicle marque. By Will Hersey

16 • How to Make a Splash

34 • Up, Up and Away

All aboard the newest ocean-, river- and expedition-bound vessels that are at the helm of adventure and indulgence. By Gary Buchanan

For ‘regular’ passengers, the space race is less about thrusting rockets, more about gently-does-it balloons. By Claire Wrathall

WINTER 2022 C OV E R P H OTO : S PAC E P E R S P EC T I V E

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

CHAIRMAN

Farhad Heydari

Nick Perry

Farhad@ultratravel.com

Nick@ultratravel.com

@MrFarhadHeydari

@MrNickPerry

SENIOR EDITOR

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Vicki Reeve

Andrew Cowan

CONTRIBUTORS Gary Buchanan, Rob Crossan, Chris Hall, Will Hersey, Lauren Ho, Larry Olmsted, Claire Wrathall

ultratravel.com

@Ultratravel

© 2021 Published by PGP Media Limited on behalf of UHC Cayman Holdings Limited, Northside House, Mount Pleasant, Barnet, Hertfordshire, EN4 9EE, England, UK. All rights reserved. While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of information contained in this publication, no responsibility can be accepted for any errors or omissions nor for any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork submitted. The information contained in this publication is correct at the time of going to press. Views expressed are not necessarily those of the publisher or UHC Cayman Holdings Limited. Ultratravel is a registered trademark. WINTER 2022

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U LT R A T R A V E L


LUXURY DEFINED

CO R I N T H I A .CO M

LO N D O N | BU DA PE S T | S T PE T ER S BU RG | L I S BO N | M A LTA | PR AGU E | K H A R TO U M | T R I P O L I N E W YO R K* | RO M E* | B R US S EL S* | BU C H A R E S T * | M A LTA* | M OSCOW * | D O H A* * N E W O PEN I N GS


EDITOR'S LETTER

FA R H A D H E Y DA R I EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, Ultratravel

VIEW TO A THRILL

With a wealth of new cultural and culinary developments, the always-buzzy Hong Kong is a must-visit in 2022

New Horizons

Farhad Heydari EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Ultratravel

WINTER 2022

Travel has always been a conduit to the other great pleasures in life – the tapestry of experiences that imbue each journey with that great sense of joy and discovery. From the gastronomic to the cultural, sporting to the ruminative, each of our sojourns is filled with both rewarding and unexpected encounters. And also with unexpected finds – be it a hidden, cobble-carpeted, ivy-draped courtyard, a vertiginous mountain pass with endless views, a dusty, precious find in a market stall or that longed-for special gift that glitters. That’s why this new iteration of Ultratravel bears the tagline ‘Joy of Discovery’ – because it is the totality of all

that, and much more, which we will celebrate going forward. Sure, we will shortlist and feature, curate and enumerate the latest from the world of travel. But we’ll also highlight, showcase and champion those dynamic creatives (be they architects, chefs, designers or makers) who enliven and enhance their environs and who, in turn, elevate ours. After all, half the pleasure of travelling is to be imbued not only with the destination but with everything the destination has to offer. To travel is to be surprised – and, as you will discover in this issue and those that follow, there are plenty of revelations in store. Enjoy.

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Half the pleasure of travelling is to be imbued not only with the destination but with everything it has to offer

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IN THE KNOW

IN GOOD ( T R AV E L L I N G ) C O M PA N Y Global Hotel Alliance’s newly enhanced loyalty programme, GHA DISCOVERY, offers members a trusted plus-one at home or away. By Rob Crossan

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SLUG

ON THE WATERFRONT

Among 500-plus exceptional hotels, GHA DISCOVERY grants members VIP access to the exquisite private-island resort of Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas

PHOTO: DISCOVERY

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hat qualities should your ideal travelling companion possess? While opinions are as different as the individuals who hold them, a few universal requirements emerge. For starters, you want someone knowledgeable – not just about the most obvious attractions, but also about where to find the best cocktails, canapés and concierges at your destination. You’ll also want someone who’s ahead of the crowd. Someone who can walk the line between sybaritic and soulful. Someone discerning. Discreet. Flexible to your mood. And, above all, someone who makes the experience easy. Now imagine your companion also offers VIP access to 500-plus distinct hotels from 35 independent hotel brands in 85 countries. Congratulations! You’ve just imagined GHA DISCOVERY, a loyalty programme that’s been newly reimagined for the evolving state of travel. As your ultimate travel companion, GHA DISCOVERY accompanies you around the globe – unlocking VIP recognition, benefits and rewards as you go. Except now, the programme also makes it possible for you to indulge as easily around the corner as it does across the world. It’s an evolution that comes at the perfect time. “With the pandemic restricting overseas travel, more frequent local trips and ‘days out’ are becoming the norm,” says Chris Hartley, CEO of Global Hotel Alliance, the organisation behind GHA DISCOVERY. “Consumers are keen to explore destinations closer to their doorstep, so our loyalty programme has evolved to become more accessible at home or away.” So what’s changed, exactly? While GHA DISCOVERY was never a traditional points-based loyalty scheme, the programme has evolved to offer more generous rewards and more flexible paths to elite status. Now GHA DISCOVERY members can upgrade through four membership levels via

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IN THE KNOW

“With DISCOVERY Dollars, we’ve created the first digital rewards currency in the industry… Members can now enjoy the facilities without booking a stay” three flexible paths: nights/stays, eligible purchases and number of brands stayed with. The programme has also introduced DISCOVERY Dollars (D$), a simple, transparent rewards currency that members earn from day one and can spend on various hotel amenities. “With DISCOVERY Dollars, we’ve created the first digital rewards currency in the industry,” explains Hartley. “Also, because so many of our members live within driving distance of our hotels, we’re now making it possible – via our initiative Live Local – for them to enjoy the most popular facilities and amenities without booking a stay.” Remember that travelling companion we spoke about earlier? Now imagine that person comes bearing membersonly access to the pool or the spa, special food and beverage offers, and golf options at luxury hotels near your home. Best friend ever, you say? We agree – because GHA DISCOVERY’s Live Local concept means you can enjoy more staycays, workfrom-hotel days and afternoons out. “All these key benefits are at the heart of the programme,” enthuses Hartley. “They’ll be delivered by the 35 brands of Global Hotel Alliance, each with its own individuality and cultural diversity.” Seen this way, GHA DISCOVERY offers much more than a simple rewards programme. Instead, it turns the world’s top independent hotel brands into 35 unique travelling companions – all rolled into your most reliable and cherished plus-one.

PHOTO: DISCOVERY

For more information or to join the programme for free, visit ghadiscovery.com or download the GHA DISCOVERY mobile app.

SWISS SWELEGANCE

The glorious Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski St Moritz is another unique hotel member of the GHA DISCOVERY programme

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ANANTARA


SLUG

EXCELLENT ADVENTURE

The 200-guest luxury expedition ship Crystal Endeavor in Hafnarhólmi, Iceland, on her maiden voyage this summer

HOW TO MAKE A SPL ASH U LT R A T R A V E L

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T H E NSELW U GW A V E

Whether on the high seas, calmer rivers or thrilling expeditions, sybaritic sailors will find plenty to indulge in aboard the latest luxe

PHOTO: @BRUNOCAZARINIPHOTOGRAPHY

vessels, writes Gary Buchanan

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T H E N E W WAV E

For almost two years the cruise industry was becalmed in a sea of torpor. The crucible of coronavirus saw many vessels scrapped in an undignified orgy of destruction. Rebooted and in comeback mode, there’s a coterie of new ships primed to debut, each one brimful of opulence and pizzazz.

OCEAN

PHOTO: APT

Full to the gunwales with show-stealing bravura, the following new arrivals on the ocean scene have a surfeit of luxe credentials. Set to make a splash in April, the 3,260-passenger Celebrity Beyond is a design fantasy rooted in reality. Among the onboard highlights is Le Voyage – the first-ever Daniel Boulud fine-dining restaurant at sea (celebritycruises.com). Grilling meats and drinking soju are de rigueur in Gunbae – the Korean barbecue aboard Virgin Voyages’ second ship, Valiant Lady. Few doubt this paquebot provocateur will bestir gusto when she premieres in March. The 2,700 ‘sailors’ hanging out in their retro-futuristic RockStar Suites can chill out in Redemption – the ship’s spa (virginvoyages.com). A couple’s massage set to live music, as well as enhanced sleeping experiences, are integral to Otium – a doctrine of wellness, relaxation and indulgence that’s a touchstone of Silversea’s new Silver Dawn. Revelling in an aura of relaxed sophistication and boasting one of the highest space-toguest quotients in luxury cruising, this 596-guest ship embarks on her inaugural Mediterranean voyages in April (silversea.com). Athens, Barcelona, Istanbul, Rome and Venice are embarkation ports for a summer-long season of cruises aboard the 670-passenger Azamara Onward, which will be unveiled in May. With late-night sailaways and overnights in port, the latest addition to the Azamara fleet features lavish AzAmazing Evenings (azamara.com). As the sun sets, guests on APT’s new MV Lady Eleganza can join the fashionistas who hang out in chichi ports along the Dalmatian coast. Arriving on the scene in April, this boutique craft offers 34 guests whip-smart yachting (aptouring.com). Another smoking-hot entrant is the 100-guest Emerald Azzurra. Launching in January, this superyacht’s inaugural voyages call at ports in the Red Sea and Saudi Arabia before embarking on a summer-long roster of sailings in the eastern and western Mediterranean (emeraldcruises.com).

ABOVE - SMALL IS SWEET

With just 34 guests on board, MV Lady Eleganza offers an intimate experience and is custommade for exploring the coastlines of Croatia

BELOW - INDULGE IN INDOCHINA

Guests aboard the spacious river ship Mekong Serenity enjoy the landscapes of Cambodia and Vietnam from their floating retreat

PHOTO: UNIWORLD

PHOTO: APT

PHOTO: CELEBRITY BEYOND

LEFT - A TASTE OF THE BEST

On Celebrity Beyond, Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud has created Le Voyage, his debut signature restaurant at sea

LEFT - LA DOLCE VITA

From the Fortuny fabrics and Murano glass inside to the breathtaking views outside, SS La Venezia pays homage to Venetian aesthetics

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WINTER 2022


Contact your travel agent or call 0808 23 43 802. Non- contractual document. PONANT all rights reserved. ©Studio PONANT

WELCOME BACK TO THE WORLD

ICONIC ANTARCTICA Whales, penguin colonies, icy landscapes... Embark on an expedition cruise to discover the mythical White Continent. visit: uk.ponant.com


THE NEW SLUG WAV E

PHOTO: UNIWORLD

LIQUID ASSET

Navigating the Nile, SS Sphinx’s bespoke decor – by local artisans – highlights Egyptian craftsmanship

PHOTO: AQUA EXPEDITIONS

There’s a veritable armada of trendsetters paving the way for indulgent travel along the rivers of the world. Uniworld Boutique River Cruises (uniworld.com) has three new style icons. Navigating the captivating islands of the Venetian Lagoon, the flamboyant SS La Venezia is adorned with Art Nouveau-style fabrics crafted by Fortuny. The design leitmotifs on the SS Sâo Gabriel similarly reflect the riverine tableau of Portugal’s dramatic Douro. Exploring the ribbon of liquid history that is the Nile, SS Sphinx is a Xanadu of a ship with interiors that flaunt Egyptian craftsmanship. Another refined new riverboat sailing sevennight voyages through antiquity, on a round trip from Luxor, is the 72-passenger AmaDahlia. Recognised for its culinary excellence, AmaWaterways has recently been inducted into the prestigious Tables et Auberges de France (amawaterways. com). Expect a five-course medley of Vietnamese flavours and textures in the Indochine restaurant aboard the new custom-built Mekong Serenity, where the interior vibe gives a nod to the region’s French heritage. The 88 guests will be enchanted as the ‘Mother River of Southeast Asia’ unfolds during the seven-night cruise which is an integral part of the 23-day ‘Best of Vietnam and Cambodia’ luxury tour from Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City (aptouring.com).

NATURAL SELECTION

The seven-suite superyacht Aqua Mare is based exclusively in the Galápagos Islands

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EXPEDITION LEADER

Contemporary and sociable, the public areas on Seabourn Venture also encapsulate the romanticism of early explorers

PHOTO: SEABOURN

RIVER

EXPEDITION

Right at the forefront of innovative technology, cruise lines are now taking huge strides towards achieving carbon neutrality. The current vogue for expedition voyages means ships now offer unprecedented levels of luxury to the furthest corners of the globe. With its experiential quotient writ large, Seabourn (seabourn.com) is launching the first of two expedition ships in April. Following a couple of voyages in British and Norwegian waters, the 264-guest Seabourn Venture will set the compass for the Arctic, Amazon and Antarctica. Guests will be able to climb aboard two submarines, kayaks and Zodiacs. Heralded as the most spacious purpose-built Polar Class ship, the 200-guest Crystal Endeavor (crystalcruises.com) has just arrived in Antarctica on her maiden season in the White Continent. Two helicopters, a seven-person submarine, electric Zodiacs, scuba equipment, Seabobs and an ATV elevate the expedition aesthetic. Venturing to even more

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extreme latitudes, Ponant’s new 245-guest Le Commandant Charcot personifies French chic with soigné design cues and culinary virtue. Deploying its innovative hybrid-electric Liquid Natural Gas (LNG) propulsion system, this trailblazing nonesuch will head for the Geographic North Pole as well as the Northwest Passage between July and October (uk. ponant.com). Victory Cruise Lines’ new 186-passenger Ocean Victory will embark on a series of landmark expeditions to some of the less-travelled regions of Alaska’s viscerally wild Inside Passage from May to September (victorycruiselines.com). And with the kudos of showcasing nature at its most captivat­­ing, Aqua Expeditions’ new Aqua Mare will be based year-round in the isolated sanctuary of biodiversity that is the Galápagos archipelago. From May, this seven-suite superyacht will offer a choice of two personalised sevennight itineraries, as well as longer voyages for the utmost bragging rights (aquaexpeditions.com).

WINTER 2022


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ISN’T IT TIME? JOURNEY SAFE. JOURNEY WONDERFULL . SM

CALL 0800 240 4286 | CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT | VISIT CELEBRITYCRUISES.COM/GB Health and safety protocols, guest conduct rules, and regional travel restrictions vary by ship and destination, and are subject to change without notice. Due to evolving health protocols, imagery and messaging may not accurately reflect onboard and destination experiences, offerings, features, or itineraries. These may not be available during your voyage, may vary by ship and destination, and may be subject to change without notice.*Terms and conditions apply


TIME MACHINES

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2.

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PHOTOS: PARMIGIANI; VACHERON CONSTANTIN; PATEK PHILIPPE; AUDEMARS PIGUET

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1. Parmigiani Tonda PF Chronograph in steel 2. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph ‘Everest’ in titanium and steel 3. Patek Philippe 5905/1A-001 flyback chronograph with annual calendar in steel 4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph in steel

MOV ING UP Superior sports chronographs are having their finest hour as the best watchmakers produce splendid haute

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here was a time when the very finest watchmakers concerned themselves only with delicate, golden creations. If you wanted a ‘tool watch’, you went to Rolex or Omega; for a sophisticated timepiece, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and their ilk. Such strict genre lines have long since blurred, to the extent that anything vaguely ‘sporty’ from a blue-chip brand is commercial dynamite. But even by today’s standards, 2021 has seen a high-water mark for a specific subset of the genre: haute horlogerie sports chronographs. We might do well to start with the watch that more or less invented such a concept: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. Iconoclastic on its debut 28 years ago, it has become totemic to the modern Audemars Piguet, home to countless collaborations and special editions. One thing it

WINTER 2022

designs. Chris Hall singles some out

never had until now, however, was a chronograph movement produced entirely in-house – something of an oversight for such a peerless watchmaker. This has now been rectified with a series of new designs, and our pick is the 42mm model in stainless steel with blue ‘petite tapisserie’ dial, a look reminiscent of the original Offshore. As watchmaking totems go, none surpasses the Patek Philippe Nautilus, a watch whose popularity has seen it become virtually unobtainable. In October, however, the manufacture released an intriguing alternative: reference 5905/1A-001, a trend-conscious redesign of its beloved annual calendar chronograph with a robust stainless-steel bracelet and olive-green dial. Another brand giving its core pieces an assertive makeover is relative newcomer Parmigiani, whose Tonda PF Chronograph shines at the centre of a revamped collection.

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Combining all-purpose steel cases and bracelets with finely judged finishing touches, it’s no surprise this cleaner, more assured aesthetic comes from Guido Terreni – the man who brought us the Bulgari Octo Finissimo – who is newly installed at Parmigiani’s helm. Not sporty enough for you? Enter the Vacheron Constantin Overseas ‘Everest’ Chronograph, a steel-and-titanium number inspired by a one-off prototype created for the mountaineer and photographer Cory Richards in 2019. The partnership was as unexpected as it was welcome – Vacheron’s wheel­ house typically being more boardroom than base camp – and the limited-run watches that have followed this year show that Switzerland’s oldest watchmaker certainly knows how to flex with the times. The high-contrast colours, matte textures and swappable Cordura or rubber straps are a breath of glacier-fresh air.

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Travel has changed, and so have we.


For a decade, DISCOVERY Loyalty helped millions of travellers get recognised and generously rewarded at 500+ hotels, resorts and palaces worldwide. But times have changed. Now as GHA DISCOVERY, we have redesigned the programme to make staycations, work-from-hotel days and afternoons out just as rewarding as your next holiday abroad. Exclusive DISCOVERY Dollars (D$) to reward you for indulging. Local Offers to unlock hotel facilities and amenities nearby. Experiences to connect you to the soul of your hometown or destination. There’s so much to explore, plus flexible new ways to upgrade! And you won’t even have to book a flight.* It’s time to savour the moment at home or away. Where to next?

*Terms & Conditions apply

ghadiscovery.com

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KING OF THE HILL

Pazin sits at the heart of Istria County in Croatia, a region full of rustic charm, fantastic food and wine – and rolling hills that make for epic cycling excursions

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G R E AT E S C A P E S

BE HERE NOW From an epic new cultural district in Hong Kong that has been nearly a quarter of a century in the making, to the transformation of Manhattan’s PHOTO: JULIEN DUVAL

historic Tin Building into a dining mecca, these are the hottest new destinations that should be on your radar for 2022. By Lauren Ho

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G R E AT E S C A P E S

3 VALENCIA 2022 is Valencia’s year. Never afraid to innovate, Spain’s third-largest city has not only been named the World Capital of Design, it has also been crowned the European Capital of Smart Tourism, thanks to its achievements in sustainability, accessibility, digitisation, and cultural heritage and creativity. This is boosted with the arrival of CaixaForum, a new cultural space for art exhibitions and events, which will open inside the futuristic Santiago Calatrava-designed Ágora building in the City of Arts and Sciences. This area will also be linked to the city centre thanks to the completion of Line 10 of the Valencia Metro, which will showcase artwork by eight local illustrators at each of the stations. The city will also play host to a number of prestigious events including the 36th Goya Gala – Spain’s answer to the Oscars – as well as the presentation event for the Michelin Guide Spain & Portugal 2022. Coming up, Valencia has also been confirmed as the host city for the 2026 Gay Games.

MAKING TRACKS FOR KYŪSHŪ

The ne plus ultra of sleeper trains, Seven Stars takes its passengers around the mountainous Japanese island of Kyūshū in serious style

4 THE SEAPORT, NEW YORK

PHOTO: KYUSHU RAILWAY COMPANY

Already home to an outstanding collection of restaurants, including Andrew Carmellini’s Carne Mare, Momofuku Ssäm Bar by David Chang, the California coast-inspired Malibu Farm, and The Fulton by Jean-Georges Vongerichten, The Seaport in Lower Manhattan is set to become an even bigger foodie destination thanks to Vongerichten, who is bringing the historic Tin Building back to life. Home to the Fulton Fish Market, built in 1907, the sprawling 4,924sq m (53,000sq ft) marketplace has been reimagined by the chef to include: a retail fish market; six restaurants, including the House of the Red Pearl, a clandestine fine-dining restaurant serving Chinese-inspired dishes; thoughtfully curated candies and confections; a gourmet market, and various casual counters and cafés. While there, make sure to explore this historic neighbourhood with a visit to the South Street Seaport Museum and stop by iconic retailers such as McNally Jackson booksellers and the famed shoe store SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker, followed by a visit to The Rooftop at Pier 17, home to The Greens, a seasonally rotating dining concept, and the Summer Concert Series, starting again in May 2022.

1 CAPE TOWN A vibrant city best known for its distinct blend of cultures, Cape Town has a food scene bursting with life, cementing its place as a must-visit destination for 2022. Celebrated chef Luke Dale Roberts and his wife, Sandalene, have unveiled The Test Kitchen Fledgelings, a restaurant that focuses on training people in the hospitality industry, while at the V&A Waterfront, chef Ryan Cole has launched Cabo Beach Club, a sprawling dockside hot spot with a collection of buzzing restaurants and bars. Elsewhere, Tomson serves up comforting Asian fare with a focus on southern Chinese dishes such as crispy pork belly and wonton dumplings, while right next door, the ever-popular Max Bagels now transforms into Leo’s Wine Bar at night. Cultivate is a new bar, retail store, tasting room and events space with a membership collective aimed to ‘promote and amplify black and brown talent’ in the wine industry, while the city’s already thriving dining scene has been given another boost with Shoreditch House – a smoke- and fire-based restaurant at The Winchester hotel on the scenic Sea Point Promenade – and ëlgr, a modern offering in a relaxed setting with a fresh, seasonal menu that takes its cues from chef Jesper Nilsson’s Swedish background. All this against a magnificent backdrop of Table Mountain and the sparkling Atlantic Ocean.

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Kyūshū offers a beautiful alternative to heaving cities such as Tokyo 2 KYŪSHŪ With its active volcanic peaks, lush coastlines and abundance of hot springs, Kyūshū – Japan’s southern- and westernmost main island – offers a beautiful and pleasant alternative to heaving cities such as Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. Already home to Seven Stars, an exclusive luxury sleeper train that cruises around the island, Kyūshū will also soon welcome a new bullet train line that will connect Saga and Nagasaki. Set on a natural harbour, Nagasaki is home to Saikai National Park, a marine park dotted with more than 200 islands, which you can experience by way of 99 Triton, a newly launched catamaran that sails from Kujukushima Pearl Sea Resort, a waterfront complex with a number of shopping and dining spots. Fried chicken, or karaage, fans, meanwhile, should head to the city of Nakatsu – best known as Japan’s karaage mecca – where this tasty treat will be celebrated with the Fried Chicken Grand Prix, due to take place in April.

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CORKING CAPE TOWN

Just one of a clutch of new bars and restaurants in Cape Town, Cultivate strives ‘to promote black and brown talent’ in the wine industry

WINTER 2022


G R E AT E S C A P E S

HOT TICKET

PHOTO: DAVID ROTA

As the World Capital of Design, European Capital of Smart Tourism and host to the Goya Gala in 2022, Valencia will be a hive of activity next year

FOODIE HAVEN

PHOTO: NYC & COMPANY

The Seaport in Manhattan is the setting for Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s latest culinary project, the Tin Building

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G R E AT E S C A P E S

5 HONG KONG Based on a Foster + Partners master plan, the West Kowloon Cultural District is one of the largest cultural projects in the world and has put Hong Kong on the map as a must-visit destination for 2022. Nearly 25 years in the making, the development blends art, education, per­for­mance and exhibi­ tion centres, plus green open spaces and hotel, dining and entertainment venues, across 40 hectares of reclaimed land. Already open are the Xiqu Centre, a space dedicated to tradi­ tional Chinese theatre; Freespace, a venue for con­tem­p­orary performance; Art Park, an open-air exhibition destination, and the highly anticipated M+ museum, which opened last month. Coming up for 2022 is the Hong Kong Palace Museum, a space dedicated to Chinese art and culture, which will house over 800 Chinese national treasures across nine galleries. Elsewhere, Hong Kong’s food scene continues to thrive with the recent opening of both the Aqua and Hutong brands in the stylish new H Zentre and the relaunch of the renovated Central Market, which occupies a 1939 listed build­ing. At the forefront of sustainable dining, Hong Kong received its first Michelin Green star, thanks to the efforts of Roganic – which also retained its regular Michelin star – for its commitment to the provenance of ingredients from local farms.

The West Kowloon Cultural District blends art, education, performance and exhibition centres, plus green open spaces and hotel, dining and entertainment venues, across 40 hectares of reclaimed land

6 OSLO While its Scandinavian siblings have grabbed the headlines over the years, Oslo has quietly glided under the radar, content with a more subtle approach. But now, the Norwegian capital is finally coming into its own, thanks to a bunch of new openings from the much-anticipated Munch museum to a restaurant and store from local fashion brand Holzweiler. The latter – called Holzweiler Platz – has been designed by architecture firm Snøhetta to continue with the brand’s signature handcrafted style, and serves a varied and honest menu with dishes such as grilled cod with mussels and shellfish broth. After securing the third Michelin star for his Oslo restaurant Maaemo, chef Esben Holmboe Bang is fast becoming a big player in the local food scene, first with the opening of a more low-key bistro called The Vandelay, which will be followed by a series of new restaurants, bars and cafés, including a wine and cocktail bar called The Conservatory. A number of art galleries, including QSPA and Kösk, have opened in Oslobukta, the up-and-coming neighbourhood around the Munch museum, while coming soon will be the launch of the new National Museum, which will have some 5,000 works from collections of art, architecture and design on display in a space that spans two floors and almost 90 rooms.

DRAMATIC ENTRANCE

The bold modern exterior of the Xiqu Centre in Hong Kong contrasts with its purpose: to promote traditional Chinese opera

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G R E AT E S C A P E S

WHERE THE ART IS

PHOTO: EINAR ASLAKSEN

The eagerly awaited Munch museum in Oslo is now open, and more galleries are debuting in up-and-coming Oslobukta, the area around it

7 ISTRIA COUNTY

8 NASHVILLE

While Croatia is often better known for cities such as Dubrovnik or Split, the region of Istria County, further north – a heart-shaped peninsula on the border of Slovenia and Italy – is grabbing headlines, thanks to its bucolic rolling landscape dotted with hilltop villages, epic cycling experiences and culinary delights, from truffles and olive oil to winemaking. Now, keen cyclists can traverse the entire region with ease, thanks to the recent launch of ICARUS,

Anchored by the much-anticipated opening of the National Museum of African American Music – the first museum in the US dedicated to celebrating the legacy of African American musicians and artists – Music City will mark a number of key milestones for a bunch of iconic venues in 2022, which further emphasise it as a must-visit destination in the coming year. These include the 65th anniversary of Historic RCA Studio B, where the likes of Elvis and Dolly Parton recorded some of their most famous hits, and the 40th birthday of The Bluebird Cafe, while the Ryman Auditorium will be commemorating its 130th anniversary. With acclaimed chefs boosting the local food scene too, round off your music pilgrimage with a bite to eat at Audrey, a highly anticipated new restaurant from James Beard Award-winning TV chef Sean Brock, followed by a tipple at The Twelve Thirty Club, a joint venture between singer and actor Justin Timberlake and restaurateur Sam Fox, which sprawls over an entire city block fusing cocktail lounge with high-end honky-tonk.

a hop-on, hop-off train, designed especially for cyclists, which chugs between the southern capital of culture, Pula, to Buzet in the northern region. While in Pula, make sure to explore Zerostrasse, the city’s underground tunnel system, which has just launched a brand-new lift that zips up to the Fortress Kaštel, which has the best views of the city. Meanwhile, along the coast, the old town of Rovinj, Istria’s star attraction, is gaining ground as a foodie destination with Agli Amici, which just gained a Michelin star, making it the second for the city, following restaurant Monte.

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PHOTO: VISITMUSICCITY.COM

Oslo is finally coming into its own, thanks to a bunch of new openings from the Munch museum to Holzweiler Platz

MUSIC TO YOUR EARS – AND EYES

Opened this year, the National Museum of African American Music in Nashville is one of many musicthemed venues celebrating milestones in the city

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S PAT I A L AWA R E N E S S

Up, up and away Forget blasting off in a rocket – in the near future, journeys to the stratosphere will use giant balloons for a slower, gentler experience. And not a spacesuit in sight, says Claire Wrathall

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SLUG

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S PAT I A L AWA R E N E S S

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ad you happened to be in the vicinity of Florida’s Titusville, about 64 kilometres east of Orlando International Airport, on 18 June last summer, you might have caught sight of what looked like a UFO propelled by a gigantic hydrogen-filled balloon ascending slowly from a site near the Kennedy Space Center. Named Spaceship Neptune, it was making its first uncrewed test flight. All went well, and from 2024 it should be taking paying passengers into space, or at least a little way into it, the better to observe the curvature of our fragile blue planet as it orbits the sun in the blackness of infinity. That first voyage climbed to a height of 33,043m (108,409ft or just over 20 miles), about three times the altitude attained by long-haul aircraft, rising through the troposphere and into the stratosphere. But if this sounds like just another space-tourism venture – a rival to Richard Branson’s Virgin Galactic, Elon Musk’s SpaceX or Jeff Bezos’s Blue Origin, striving to blast wannabe astronauts upwards in rockets travelling at 3,597kph (2,235mph), the objectives of Space Perspective, the company behind Spaceship Neptune, could not be more different. Rather, this is about slow space travel. Indeed, Neptune will travel at just 20kph (12mph). As the company’s Britishborn co-founder, Jane Poynter (see ‘Three Questions With…’, opposite) puts it, its mission is to “offer a gentle ride”.

PHOTO: WORLD VIEW ENTERPRISES

Slow space travel is what it’s all about. “It’s important to have an opportunity to truly take in what you’re seeing”

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S PAT I A L AWA R E N E S S

Three Questions With… Jane Poynter

PHOTO: WORLD VIEW ENTERPRISES

Founder, co-CEO and CXO of Space Perspective

AVAILABLE SPACE

Previous pages: ‘Explorers’ in Spaceship Neptune will share an awe-inspiring but extremely gentle flight to the edge of space in a pressurised capsule. Opposite: at launch, World View’s Strato-Balloon stands 168m (550ft) tall; at apogee, its diameter expands to 104m (340ft). Above: World View’s Explorer Space Capsule, post-landing. Right: Spaceship Neptune back on Earth

October, the whole trip lasted 10 minutes and 17 seconds. In contrast, Spaceship Neptune’s maiden test flight lasted a leisurely six hours and 39 minutes. Once it is licensed to carry passengers, there’ll be space for eight, comfortably seated in reclining chairs facing panoramic windows. You won’t experience weightlessness. But there will be a bar, a bathroom, even wifi. And you will splash down – smoothly, they promise, in a detachable cone – in the Gulf of Mexico, from which you’ll be ferried back to shore by boat. Using balloons to propel people into space is nothing new (NASA was experimenting with the idea back in the 1930s). And neither is Space Perspective the only company proposing to offer such adventures. Another US company, World View (worldview.space), has developed a capsule that hangs from a giant polyethylene balloon also capable of reaching an altitude of about 30,000m (98,425ft). Originally founded by Space Perspective’s Poynter and her co-founder and husband, Taber MacCallum, World View was the company that led the StratEx mission, the helium-filled-balloon-enabled flight that took the (now retired) Google executive and Space Perspective founding

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PHOTO: SPACE PERSPECTIVE

When the Star Trek actor William Shatner was thrust 100km into space on Blue Origin’s New Shepard rocket last

board member Alan Eustace to an altitude of 41,419m (135,889ft), from which he made his record-breaking skydive in 2014. Subsequently restructured and now led by Ryan Hartman, World View also hopes to start operating commercially in 2024, offering flights for $50,000 and liftoff locations slated to include not just the Grand Canyon and Great Barrier Reef, but the Serengeti, northern Norway, the pyramids of Giza and Great Wall of China. (Neptune has already sold out its 2024 offering at $125,000 a seat and is taking bookings for 2025.) Again, slow space travel is what World View is all about. “It’s important to have an opportunity to truly take in what you’re seeing,” says Hartman. “Not just the Earth, but the stars above. To truly see how our planet is a living organism. To see beyond borders. To see beyond race. That takes time. It can’t be done in minutes; it has to be hours.”

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Q: Space Perspective has been deemed the world’s first luxury spaceflight experience – why? A: We have redefined conventional space travel, with no high G-forces, no special equipment and no rigorous training. Eight ‘Explorers’ enjoy a safe and comfortable six-hour flight in a pressurised capsule propelled by a high-performance SpaceBalloon. The zero-emissions Spaceship Neptune offers an aweinspiring journey to the edge of space, above 99 per cent of the Earth’s atmosphere, and has an on-board bar, unique culinary experience, reclining seats and even a bathroom. Ascending gently and smoothly to space at cycling speed, Spaceship Neptune’s SpaceBalloon has been flown safely by NASA more than 1,000 times. Panoramic, 360-degree viewing windows showcase the quintessential astronaut experience of seeing Earth in space – the sun against a black sky illuminating the iconic thin blue line of Earth’s atmosphere and curvature – in ultimate comfort. Time is, of course, a luxury, and being immersed in the profound experience of seeing our Earth in space for hours as a solo adventure, or together with loved ones, has to be the most luxurious experience of all. Q: Who is the experience designed to appeal to? A: Space Perspective extends the possibility of exploring space to a wider audience than has historically been possible: radically gentle flights aboard Spaceship Neptune are perfect for everyone from adventure seekers to the spacecurious. A spaceflight can now be a social event, with families, friends and loved ones travelling together and even sharing their experience via livestream with those left on Earth. Space Perspective’s mission is to take thousands, even millions, of people to space – including scientists, artists and leaders. The exhilaration of this transformational encounter is tempered by the serenity of the voyage itself. Our Explorers are fully immersed in the profundity of the space perspective, and experience life-changing views and a newfound desire to safeguard the future of planet Earth, all in a shirt-sleeve environment. Q: How and when can we join Spaceship Neptune? A: Spaceship Neptune flies from the Florida Space Coast, with additional flight locations planned worldwide. The first 500 tickets are sold out through 2024, with bookings now open for 2025 and beyond. spaceperspective.com

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CARIBBEAN QUEEN

The glorious Cabot Saint Lucia is one of the most hotly anticipated new openings of 2022

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T H E S T A T E O F P L AY

The Perfect Approach Celebrated course architects working on outstanding new sites worldwide are putting seriously enjoyable golf back on the map, writes Larry Olmsted

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THE STATE OF PLAY

GREECE IS THE WORD

The Dunes (pictured) and sister course, The Bay, in Costa Navarino, are being joined next year by a new pair of 18-holers by legendary player José María Olazábal

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he last time golf experienced a big development boom, investors stressed quantity over quality, and the market quickly became glutted with mediocrity. After a retrenchment, golf is back and surging in popularity around the globe, but this time developers are moving more selectively, locating exceptional sites and hiring the world’s most renowned architects. The result is a new wave of top-quality courses by superstar designers that will woo even the most jaded golf travellers for years to come. New Zealand has long been a hotbed of dream coastal courses, from Kauri Cliffs to Cape Kidnappers to the ultra-private Tom Doak-designed Tara Iti. Now the North Island is getting two more stunners, public courses within the Tara Iti resort community. Te Arai Links (tearai.com) will feature two coastal links-style layouts, the South Course by Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw, opening in 2022, followed shortly by the Tom Doak-designed North in 2023. Both are among the world’s most revered design firms, and both also have other notable new projects. Coore & Crenshaw was given one of the most beautiful sites in the Caribbean, with rocky sea-level peninsulas that would make Pebble Beach envious, for its Cabot Saint Lucia

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Developers are moving more selectively, locating exceptional sites and hiring the world’s most renowned architects. The result is a new wave of topquality courses by superstar designers

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(cabotsaintlucia.com) project, a sister resort from the team behind Canada’s number-one golf destination, Cabot Cape Breton (cabotcapebreton.com). The first new high-profile Caribbean course in years should also be one of the first to open in 2022. The in-demand design duo has also been complementing the Brambles (brambler.wixsite.com/club), a new ‘unpretentious’ private course in Northern California wine country. The club is uniquely based on the British Isles model, with lots of competitions between members, different formats, encouraging unaccompanied guests, potentially with some non-member access. The course is essentially finished, but a poor growing season delayed the 2021 opening, now slated to be in late 2022. Doak is also staying busy by building a historically accurate tribute to The Lido, a famed Golden Age design on New York’s Long Island by CB Macdonald that was razed around the Second World War and is considered the Holy Grail of lost courses – “the greatest course you’ll never play,” according to Golf Channel. This follows another Lido homage by another star designer, Gil Hanse’s Ballyshear (brc.co.th), which opened last year in Thailand. But Doak has the advantage of a sandy links-style site, very similar to the original, at Sand Valley (sandvalley.com)

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THE STATE OF PLAY

NEW HORIZONS

The South Course, opening in 2022, will be the first of two new public courses at Te Arai Links in New Zealand

THE HOLY GRAIL REBORN

At Sand Valley, Wisconsin, Tom Doak is creating an accurate tribute to The Lido, a legendary ‘lost’ course

in Wisconsin, a resort that is already home to two Top 50 in the US courses by David McLay Kidd of Bandon Dunes fame, and Coore & Crenshaw. The Lido (thelido.com) will be a private membership course with access for resort guests. Both Hanse and Kidd are also debuting high-profile courses in 2022. Kidd designed and mostly built Portugal’s Comporta Dunes (comporta.com/en) several years back, but the developers went broke, and the course never opened. Now he has gone back with new owners to finish the job, on a coastal site just south of Lisbon that he calls, “the best site I have ever worked on in mainland Europe. Huge rolling sand dunes set against the mighty Atlantic Ocean ensure a constant cooling breeze that allowed us to grow the same grass you’ll find at St Andrews: fescue. The native vegetation of shore pines and sparse scrub makes the landscape even more perfect for golf, it’s like heathland meets linksland, all about the fun, less about the punishment.” Ever since he won the design contest for the Rio Olympics, Hanse has been jetting around the globe finishing high-profile projects, but none as high as the 46 holes at PGA Frisco (omnihotels.com/hotels/pga-frisco), the new Texas headquarters of the PGA of America. This will be a repeat Major venue, hosting future PGA

Championships, and includes two 18-hole courses, a lighted 10-hole short course, and a lighted two-acre grass putting green. The courses should open next year, followed by a large resort in 2023. Another new 36-holes by a single architect is coming to the expansive Peloponnese resort of Costa Navarino (costanavarino.com) in the red-hot destination that is Greece. Designed by European playing legend José María Olazábal, the two new coastal routings at Navarino Hills (troon.com/locations/costa-navarino) will debut in early 2022 and complement the other notable pair of eighteens, The Bay and Dunes courses, already on site. With its four courses, it will not only leap up in prominence among Continental Europe’s golf offerings but also firmly establish itself on the wider international map as a must-visit destination for au fait golfers everywhere.

Gil Hanse has been jetting around the globe finishing high-profile projects, but none as high as the 46 holes at PGA Frisco

A MAJOR UNDERTAKING

Three courses (two 18-holes, one 10-hole) at PGA Frisco, Texas – the new HQ of the PGA of America – are due to open in 2022

GREENS WITH ENVY

At Navarino Hills in the Peloponnese, two new coastal routings by Olazábal are to join The Bay (pictured below)

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DRIVING AMBITION

Flexi Beast Range Rover’s latest incarnation not only strengthens its prestige but also confirms its position as a top-drawer all-rounder. Will Hersey reports

WHAT LIES BENEATH

While the new Range Rover 22MY profile may not look markedly different from its predecessor, the model is a giant leap forward for the marque

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espite being a model that’s now more than 50 years old, it’s curious to think that there have been only four generations of the iconic Range Rover. That’s a lot of time between updates for Land Rover’s flagship SUV, which continues to set an unrivalled benchmark as one of the highest-echelon motor vehicles in the world. In fact, this 2022 model stakes a strong claim to represent the most dramatic leap in the Range Rover’s history. Not that you’d necessarily notice from first appearances. That familiar, imposing silhouette has changed little, for starters. New headlights and a resized grille are the only tweaks of note up front. The most significant styling change is at the rear,

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where the tail-lights have been integrated into a black panel so are invisible when not being used. The flush door handles and sleeker styling echo the cleaner design direction previously seen in the smaller Velar. It’s slightly longer and bigger than its previous incarnation too, with optional 23in wheels upping the ante further – all of which only enhances that king-of-the-road feeling, which, for customers, has become one if its main draws. The biggest advances, though, can be found underneath that now so familiar body shape. In comes Land Rover’s new MLA-Flex architecture, which is being used here for the first time and has been designed to accommodate combustion engine, plug-in hybrid and pure EV powertrains. Indeed, there are two plug-in

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THE INNER SANCTUM

From larger screens and new infotainment system to improved noise cancelling, the new Range Rover interior is much enhanced

Inside, the bar has been raised in almost every corner, including a new infotainment system, largestever screens, improved active noise cancelling…

hybrid options available at launch, with Range Rover’s first all-electric model on its way in 2024.

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PHOTO: NEWSPRESS

The hybrids offer up a ‘real world’ 50-mile range on a full charge, with 80 per cent top-up achievable in an hour at fast-charging stations, while a full charge takes five hours on a home wallbox. No points on offer for suggesting that these are going to be popular. The rangetopper, of course, is the traditional V8, powered by a 4.4-litre twin-turbo producing 523hp and stampeding its way to 62mph in 4.6 seconds. Inside, the bar has been raised in almost every corner, including a new infotainment system, largest-ever screens, improved active noise cancelling, even Covidreducing cabin purification. For the first time, a seven-seat configuration is available for the Long Wheelbase (LWB) model. And then there are the SV models, for the ultimate in RR personalisation. It’s a far cry from the car that started life as only a marginal upgrade on the traditional Land Rover, but over its lifetime has become a luxury benchmark: the car that can do it all. Literally. What other car can switch from limousine to family SUV, motorway cruiser and astonishingly capable off-roader, if you ever give it the chance? And now it can add EV to its list of roles. It’s this ability to wear so many hats, so well, that continues to put the Range Rover in a category of its own. landrover.com

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THE JOY OF DISCOVERY

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