UFASHON MAGAZINE COUTURE SPRING SUMMER 2022 by ufashon_official

SPRING SUMMER

2022

COUTURE THE BEST SS 2022 COLLECTION FROM PARIS

JAQUET DROZ B I R D R E P E AT E R “300TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION”

E L I E S A A B C O L L A B O R AT E S WITH RAK CERAMICS TO LAUNC H A N EXQUI SI TE SURFAC E C OLLEC TI ON

IN ATELIER

MAISON MARGIELA

CIVIDINI

CATWALK

JEWELRY

ELEONORA GHILARDI

EMBROIDERY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN for LOVE BRINGS LOVE - AZ FACTORY

TEXTILES SAMATEX

ACCESSORIES SCHIAPARELLI

HOME

ELIE SAAB WITH RAK CERAMICS

DESIGN

ÈTÈ MONTECARLO AUTOMOBILES

UFASHON MAGAZINE COUTURE SPRING SUMMER 2022 CONTENTS

24-27

116

184-185

CLASSICO CON TWIST

274-277 MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ

28-31

186-191

278-281

32-37

192-193

282-285

38-41

194-195

286-287

42-45

196-197

290-291

46-51

198-201

292-293

204-207

294-297

128-129

208-211

298-299

130-135

212-215

300-301

136-143

216-219

302-303

144-149

220-221

306-311

150-155

222-229

158-159

230-231

160-163

232-233

62-67

164-165

234-235

68-77

166-171

236-239

78-83

172-175

240-243

CHANEL

ACNE STUDIOS AKRIS

ELIE SAAB NOT JUST SUNGLASSES

ALEXANDRE BLANC

PEPITOS

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER

E. R. DÉPRIMÉS

ALEXIS MABILLE ALESSIA ZAMATTIO

SAMATEX

GAUCHERE

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI CHRISTIAN-WIJNANTS CIVIDINI

ISSEY-MIYAKE

COPERNI

ELEONORA GHILARDI

COURRÈGES

ELIE SAAB-RAK CERAMICS

DANIELE ANCARANI

NOMADE

DAWEI 54-55

ANNAGIULIA FIRENZE ANREALAGE AZ FACTORY BALENCIAGA 90-93

BARBARA BUI 94-97

BENJAMIN BENMOYAL 98-101

BOTTER 102-105

BOYAROVSKAYA 108-111

LAURENT FERRIER 112-115

CECILIE-BAHNSEN 122-127

CHLO

MAME KUROGOUCHI

OFFICINA & DESIGN GET INSPIRED MARINE SERRE CHOPARD MAURIZIO MIRI MAZARINE MINUIT

MIU MIU

NINA RICCI

JITROIS

DICE KAYEK

IJO DESIGN

DIDU

KIMHEKIM

DIOR

ALIDA LIBERALE

JAQUET DROZ

DRIES VAN NOTEN

HELIOT EMIL

MIDORJ

KOCHÉ

176

244-251

LANVIN

252-253

312-313

254-255

314-315

256-259

316-317

260-265

318-319

266-269

320-323

LECAVALIER ALESSANDRA BALBI LEONARD PARIS ZILLA

LITKOVSKAYA 270-273

MAISON MARGIELA

ANTONIANI THE REVOLUTION MOSSI

LEOPOLDINE NEHERA

328-331

NINAMOUNAH

324

372-375

336-337

376-377

PATOU

SHIATZY CHEN

PHISIQUE DU ROLE

UMA WANG

388

SITUATIONIST 378-379

DIOR MAKE UP 380-381

THEBE MAGUGU 382-383

TOM VAN DER BORGHT 384-385

UJOH

392-395

UNGARO

412

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 338-339

RAF SIMONS 340-343

REBIRTH ITALY 344-345

ARE YOU READY? 346-349

ROCHAS 350-353

SADAELS 354-361

SCHIAPARELLI 362-369

396-397

370-371

398-399

M.C. AUTOMOBILES SHANG XIA

VALENTINO 400

BAIADERA VALENTIN YUDASHKIN 410-411

VICTORIA/TOMAS 420-423

WEINSANTO 424-425

WOS

426-427

XULY BET 428-429

YOHJI-YAMAMOTO 430-431

ZADIG VOLTAIRE

There is a site, with an exotic name, called “The Fashion Desert” that is located in the Atacama Desert, a desert that stretches from southern Peru to northern Chile. In this desert place among the beautiful dunes, tons and tons of discarded clothing from all over the world are dumped every day. Being non-degradable material, all the “fast fashion” clothes coming from every region of the world, are literally eating this portion of the forgotten desert. Fashion designers and not only, for several years are committed to using recycled materials to create their collections. Thanks to their creative flair, you can admire their extraordinary readyto-wear creations presented during Paris Fashion Week or during events created ad hoc. The commitment and responsibility is now on all of us to choose garments and accessories that can represent our style, but that are also made with respect for the environment. You will discover in this new edition of UFASHON MAGAZINE COUTURE SS 2022 wonderful maisons that can satisfy every need of style and glamour, without renouncing to the charm and above all the collections presented are the result of a lot of research in the utmost responsibility for the environment.

www.ufa s h on.co m

DOWNLOAD

334-335

ACNE STUDIOS

The clash of handcrafted historical pieces with a hyper futuristic attitude. A collection about self-identity and instinct, an experimentation that has always been the heart of Acne Studios.

“We live in the age of self-identity, of instinct and experimentation. The look is provocative and hard, yet is grounded in handcrafts that are then subverted,” says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios. The clash of handcrafted historical pieces with a

C O U R T E S Y

O F

A C N E

S T U D I O S

Finding strength in contrast, there are four main themes: hyper futuristic attitude. A collection about selfchiffon matched with leather; plaid contrasted with lingerie; identity and instinct, an experimentation that has crochet and knits that are toughened up; handcrafted corsets always been the heart of Acne Studios. that are exploded and unleashed. “We live in the age of self-identity, of instinct and It’s about a juxtaposition of grandeur with fierce energy, and experimentation. The look is provocative and the possibilities of play. hard, yet is grounded in handcrafts that are then Chiffon shirts have an etched baroque print, held by ties subverted,” says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director at the neck and chest, and trailing from the oversized cuff. of Acne Studios. Aged leather button-fronted mini skirts have buckled belts Finding strength in contrast, there are four main attached, like the straps of a saddle. A high-necked long sleeve themes: chiffon matched with leather; plaid short leather dress is patchworked from purposefully irregular contrasted with lingerie; crochet and knits that rectangles, with corset lacing that holds an open seam from are toughened up; handcrafted corsets that are armhole to hem. Just as strong is a full length exploded and unleashed. printed chiffon dress, its keyhole decolletage held by ties. It’s about a juxtaposition of grandeur with fierce Panels of plaid are applied to a mesh base to create a little energy, and the possibilities of play. jacket with jewelled buttons, worn with a soft jersey rib skirt that plays with lingerie detailing, like hook and eye fastenings and suspenders. Sheer jersey socks continue the story, with corset lacing that goes all the way to the knee. A tank top is cut from a plaid shirt, matched with a rib knit shrug and white leather pants patchworked from a blown-up baroque pattern.

24 ACNE STUDIOS ©

C O U R T E S Y

O F

A C N E

S T U D I O S

FINDING STRENGTH IN CONTRAST

A white off-the-shoulder jumpsuit is knitted in a diamond crochet stitch, the elegance of the neckline contrasting with the purposeful irregularity of its seams that are whip-stitched together. Silhouettes are subverted, like a portrait neckline cropped jacket in eyelash stitch worn with a little eyelash stitch skirt, while a hand-crocheted little vest is resplendent with crochet flowers, echoing the hand-crocheted bags.

WAT CH T HE VIDEO HERE

A HYPER FUTURISTIC ATTITUDE Chiffon shirts have an etched baroque print, held by ties at the neck and chest, and trailing from the oversized cuff. Aged leather button-fronted mini skirts have buckled belts attached, like the straps of a saddle. A high-necked long sleeve short leather dress is patchworked from purposefully irregular rectangles, with corset lacing that holds an open seam from armhole to hem. Just as strong is a full length printed chiffon dress, its keyhole décolletage held by ties. Panels of plaid are applied to a mesh base to create a little jacket with jewelled buttons, worn with a soft jersey rib skirt that plays with lingerie detailing, like hook and eye fastenings and suspenders. Sheer jersey socks continue the story, with corset lacing that goes all the way to the knee. A tank top is cut from a plaid shirt, matched with a rib knit shrug and white leather pants patchworked from a blown-up baroque pattern. A white off-the-shoulder jumpsuit is knitted in a diamond crochet stitch, the elegance of the neckline contrasting with the purposeful irregularity of its seams that are whip-stitched together. Silhouettes are subverted, like a portrait neckline cropped jacket in eyelash stitch worn with a little eyelash stitch skirt, while a hand-crocheted little vest is resplendent with crochet flowers, echoing the handcrocheted bags.

PAGE

Traditionally handmade corsets are cut up and reappropriated, released from constriction but keeping their strength of line. A corset top has attached sleeves, worn with a skirt constructed as if from a corset turned upside down and inside out. A sheer wrapped dress sits under a corset that’s upside down, giving freedom of movement, while an open corset is stitched into a dress fringed with beaded florals, its squared hips created from the pattern lines of a bodice. Jewellery chains, necklaces and charms are as if thrown on, while small leather half-moon bags have wide guitar-like straps. Sunglasses are futuristic, mirroring

w w w . a c n e s t u d i o s . c o m

the ergonomic lines of super high wooden platforms.

The Venezuelan artist Arca has created an original composition for the show, SMOKEBENDING, to capture the sense of performance and occasion. “Arca represents everything this collection is about,” says Johansson, “and it is our honour that she created music especially for this show.” PAG E

C R E A T I V E

D I R E C T O R : A L B E R T P H : B O N W A N N A W A T

K R I E M L E R

AKRIS Discover

the

Akris

Spring-

Summer 2022 collection by Albert

Kriemler,

unveiled

in an exclusive film, shot in Akris’ home city, St.Gallen, Switzerland. The film evolves around the idea of a woman and an apron, paying tribute to the foundation of the house, build by Albert’s grandmother, Alice, sewing aprons from St.Gallen fabrics and embroideries in 1922. A showcase of sensual, tailored, empowering looks, staged at the “Rote Platz Stadtlounge”,

work

Swiss artist Pipilotti Rist and architect Carlos Martinez.

WATCH

THE VIDEO HERE

PAGE

w w w . e u . a k r i s . c o m

PAG E

A showcase of sensual, tailored, empowering looks

L’ÉLITE CULTURELLE

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R P H : T H O M A S

A L E X A N D R E T I S S A N D I E R

B L A N C

EXUBERANT FEMININITY

32 ALEXANDRE BLANC

For Alexandre Blanc, the starting point for all of his collections are the prints he designs and paints, but this season and for the very first time these have a deeply personal connection, drawing their inspiration from his own Italian heritage, but also the country’s intensely rich artistic past. Slim

Aarons’

photographs

the Italian high society in their element depict a certain decadent slice of the cultural elite, where dressing up was an act of fun. For Spring/Summer 2022, Alexandre Blanc celebrates this exuberant femininity

with

collection

primarily made for cocktail hour, and by hinting at this long-gone air of social extravagance. “I’ve never shown anything so Italian” Alexandre says, “it’s not only part of my family heritage, but also my personal taste for the country. The art and architecture are a huge and continuous source of inspiration for me” That he looks at architecture is evident: the exercise in style around this season’s prints were stimulated by a visit to Villa Farnese at Caprarola. PAGE

tunic, and printed silk pyjamas are languid in their

palace are contrasted with swirling animal motifs,

fluidity.

all printed on textiles that deliberately retain their

With luxe fabrics ranging from crepe de chine to

hand-painted aspect. Colours echo the burnt Sierra

linen shantung, hardware is provided by a limited

tones and faded hues of Italian classical frescoes,

edition range of jewellery in collaboration with

with bright yellow, pink and green contrasts

the historic House of Goossens. Working together

throughout.

for the second time, the shapes have confidently

While further exploring the décolleté on his

been taken further this season with hand-beaten

signature fitted dresses and portefeuille blouses,

brass, glass, and pearls in an organically shaped

the response to their elegance is found with

selection of earrings, bracelets, a big necklace, and

revelatory new volumes: an easy bustier, a sharp

even eye-glasses.

w w w .

a l e x a n d r e b l a n c p a r i s . c o m

The geometric floor and wall patterns of this

PAG E

To present his collection, Alexandre and his stylist

scenes with fantastically well-dressed party guests.

perched hand-made raffia hats on the heads of

“I make clothes with personal motifs that are joyful

models and muse-like friends who inspire him. “Or

and made for going out and having fun”. It’s the

are they masks?” — to Alexandre, they’re a final nod

almost other-worldly decadence of Federico Fellini,

to Italian culture, to grand balls in classic movies

but with a genuine zest for modern life. PAGE

A GENUINE ZEST

CLICK HERE TO WATCH THE VIDEO

FOR MODERN LIFE

PAG E

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER

38 Alexandre Vauthier joined Thierry M u g l e r ’ s

the

architecture

whic the

garment,its rigor and its requirement. He then became head designer of Jean-Paul Gaultier’s Couture Collection, an experience that lasted eight years and reinforced desire to express himself

his

fully in his own

home. His professional collaborations in Japan, his numerous trips to the united states, enrich his creative universe and offer him

the

beginnings of a f irst collection. In January 2009 , Alexandre Vauthier created his brand under his own name. The radicality of the cuts, the rigour and precision that characterize them anchor his style in f rench fashion culture and the anglosaxon influences that inspire him. Supported by the press, couture clients and international

celebrities,

her

creative universe is full of collaborations in different artistic universes: ready-to-wear, stage costumes, perfumes, music, interior architecture.

V A U T H I E R

discovered

D I R E C T O R : A L E X A N D R E P H : K A R I M S A D L I

studies,

A R T I S T I C

studio at the end of his

PAGE

4 0

PAG E

w w w . a l e x a n d r e v a u t h i e r . c o m

THE TRUE EXPRESSION OF COUTURE

W W W . A L E X I S M A B I L L E . C O M

DANCE MACHINE

The Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2022 Collection

The elegance of the tailored cuts

by Alexis Mabille is a hymn to life, sensuality and

of the dresses enchants and their

the most sublime beauty. Long dresses that caress

colors echo with their reflections

the body come to life with the slightest movement,

that seem to give life to imaginary

without any limitation of space and their casual

shapes that are released into the

elegance enchants as if by magic, the same magic

air thanks to the lightness of the

that transports love to life.

fabrics.

In an exclusive Parisian club “Silencio”, the models

The

dance without ever stopping and they celebrate a

collection expresses the dynamism

new era of love and joy.

of a strong femininity.

harmony

the

entire

ALEXIS MABILLE

The outfits are accompanied by beautiful “Baseball Cap” delicately embroidered giving a perfect style for both day and evening ... because when the music plays ... everywhere we can dance.... “Dance Machine”

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A PERFECT STYLE PAGE

4 4

C R E A T I V E

D I R E C T O R : A L E X I S P H : J U L I E T R A N N O Y

M A B I L L E

THE DYNAMISM OF A STRONG FEMININITY

PAG E

A desire to feel simply BEAUTIFUL

ALESSIA ZAMATTIO

A R T I S T I C ©

D I R E C T O R : A L E S S I A Z A M A T T I O C O U R T E S Y O F Z A M A T T I O

Dresses that have the ambition to MAKE A WOMAN FEEL MORE CHARMING

PAGE

4 8

Soft lines for a feminine woman The Alessia Zamattio collection was born with the ambition to create clothes that describe a feminine woman, sweet and, at the same time, strong and committed, blending the romanticism of precious fabrics such as silk, with soft and comfortable lines, designed to reconcile the need for practicality that our daily life imposes us with our desire to feel simply beautiful.

PAG E

A new heritage of elegance

THE STYLE The collection is featured by DRESSES WITH SOFT AND AIRY LINES, with a waistline

underlined by self-tie belts, made only of very light silk capable of creating overlapping and delicate transparencies.

Fabrics with romantic floral patterns in

refined shades of white, beige, pink, aqua green.

Dresses that have the ambition to MAKE A WOMAN FEEL MORE CHARMING, caressed by the seductive sensations that only silk can give, following the oscillating movements of the body in a slow, sweet way, enveloping her as only a perfume could do.

PAGE

w w w . z a m a t t i o . n e t

The Alessia Zamattio collections celebrate the romantic side of femininity

The Alessia Zamattio collections celebrate the romantic side of femininity and reinterpret it as a function of a present in which the woman, rediscovering a new heritage of elegance and awareness in her sensuality, chooses to bring out the grace she holds within herself to wear it with pride and ease.

PAG E

WWW.SAMATEXSRL.COM

SAMATEX

Research and innovation are the key words

DISCOVER

THE FUTURE

Thirty years of success in the name of creativity and the most original and innovative experimentation. Samatex is a company of Italian excellence capable of attracting a demanding customers. Over the years their extraordinary collections have become the starting point for prestigious brands on the international scene. Every season Samatex presents modern, avantgarde and decisive collections, responding to the creativity of its customers.

There is no challenge that Samatex is not capable of winning. From laser cutting, to the highest quality embroidery, f rom 3D optical, to applications or f itting of Swarovski®, Samatex always proposes unique solutions in the fashion system, f rom clothing to accessories, f rom bridal to the most futuristic design. Research and innovation are the key words of Samatex, capable of anticipating fashion trends, and it is precisely their extraordinary intuitive ability that has made it one of the brands of reference for the most important fashion designers on the international scene.

w w w . a n n a g i u l i a f i r e n z e . c o m

ANNAGIULIA FIRENZE

ANNAGIULIA FIRENZE’s new collection is inspired

The brand creates a unique print obtained

by the world of Tattoo, an ancient pictorial

f rom the mark of the dyeing of the lace, must

decoration technique, already found on mummies

have of the brand, on the fabric with natural

dated 500 b.C., practiced by many populations

materials and the result is just like a tattoo,

for religious, magical or pure embellishment

absolutely

purposes.

feminine and timeless image.

consistent

with

ANNAGIULIA’s

PAGE

1 0

54 The team creates the collection

inspired by the iconic men’s

garments worn by the Shelby family, main characters of the series, such as jackets, trousers

with pence, coats and contrast

themwith extremely feminine details such as chiffon shirts

and corsets. Accessories such as the tie, cup and hat make the styling even

interesting.

The

brand therefore manages to remain faithful to itself and to its femininity by experimenting

A N N A G I U L I A

rouches, gilet lined with lace

F I R E N Z E

with inlays of laces, organza

collection takes the title of a song and for this one the team is inspired by the British band Coldplay’s “Ink”. The song, in addition to its musical and textual beauty, refers us to the tattoo, inspiration of this season Stylistically, the collection follows the Britishmen’s fashion of the 1920s staged by the TV series Peaky Blinders, set in Birmingham, devasted by the first postwar period, where people struggles to survive a deeply difficult economic and social period. In fact, the palette presents the colors as always wrapped in a veil of fog. We have cream, powder pink, dark raspberry, cloud blue, dusty gray, chocolate, navy blue and black. PAG E

INK COLLECTION

and expanding its vision. Each

O F

with fabrics never used before

ANDREW GN

PAGE

w w w . a n d r e w g n . c o m

ANDREW GN FOR GREAT BARRIER REEFFOUNDATION

BOOM!, starring Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, is a film I have watched countless times, not so much for its storyline, rather for its aesthetics and the spectacular outfits of Liz Taylor, which served as my initial inspiration.

The movie was shot in Sardinia, in an almost all-white house surrounded by the sea, with an incredible décor mixing Italian baroque and midcentury modern.

This SS22 collection also extols the amazing and irreplaceable beauty of corals.

Corals

are

favorite

among

motifs

and

utmost recurring

themes.

After

watching

documentaries

about the destruction of coral reefs, and the huge endeavors to save them, he wanted to raise awareness, through the fashion lens, about the vital importance of corals for the survival of oceans and our planet.

PAG E

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

Corals are the trees of the seas, bringing life to the whole underwater ecosystem. We should treasure, protect and save them just like we cherish our forests. This collection is presented in association with the GREAT BARRIER REEF FOUNDATION, who is doing a fantastic job at SAVING THE CORALS. We wish to applaud them for their remarkable actions and warmly thank them for their support.

PAGE

PAG E

6 1

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : A N D R E W G N P H O T O G R A P H Y : B O N W O N G W A N N A W A T , N I C K

THE SURVIVAL OF OCEANS AND OUR PLANET S O L A N D

SAVING THE CORALS

The seed of the Spring-Summer 2022 collection took root two years ago when designer Kunihiko Morinaga was asked to create the virtual stage costume for a concert scene in “BELLE” (2021), the soon-to-be-released animated feature film by Oscar-nominated Japanese director Mamoru Hosoda. For this season’s presentation, the duo have reconnected on a new short movie about a fashion show held in the land of “U”, a computer-generated universe based on a luminous, futuristic, Japanese megalopolis. A

“U”

magical multidimensional space where Anrealage clothes travel through two realms, with virtual runway looks materializing in the real world.

FUTURISTIC DIMENSION

ANREALAGE

The film was presented on the Paris Fashion Week Online platform, followed by a making-of film of the movie. It will simultaneously be screened on the NTT-owned platform DOOR, where visitors will be able to enter the Anrealage VR venue as an avatar to watch the show and view the pieces up close in 3D. One by one, a series of 18 digitally designed, faceted silhouettes explode into fragments and recrystallize

w w w . a n r e a l a g e . c o m

in their real-world incarnations, seemingly stepping out of the screen, from 2D to 3D.

PAGE

Moving between the physical and virtual worlds, the live models and avatars, the eye wanders through layers of screens, with the digital visuals of “U” also projected on the wall of a white room in which a physical runway show is taking place, symbolizing the duality of two universes as they interlock. In an age dominated by screens, an anime character is captured watching the show on his smartphone, as whirring real-time figures in the corner of the screen clock

the

number

of people following the event (in the millions). The polygonal silhouettes are constructed from triangles of

fabrics

made

from

vintage garments or hitech reflective materials, mixing signature patchwork constructions and innovative bonding techniques. Matching platform sandals embellished with the same motifs were designed in collaboration with United Nude, with dried flower-studded resin jewelry by ANEVER and geodesic dome helmets completing the looks. Reclaimed denim in different washes, second-hand chinos, military clothes and vintage trench coats in a multitude of shades as well as digital floral prints are cut in myriads of triangular shapes then bonded on cotton or lining fabric, building sculptural, seamless, graphic shapes. PAG E

6 5

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : K U N I H I K O M O R I N A G A P H : M A S A Y A T A N A K A ( T R O N ) , S E I J I I S H I G A K I

THE DUALITY OF TWO UNIVERSES

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

PAGE

DOOR VR This painstaking process involves up to 500 hand-

material, accessorized with crystal-bead jewelry

applied triangles on the bigger pieces.

and a whimsical, feathery headpiece made from

Powering the collection’s romantic sci-fi mood,

fresh flowers in its physical version.

glow-in-the-dark fabrics highlight the angular

From October 12th on the DOOR VR online

structures of the dresses opening the show while

showroom, the collection’s digital silhouettes made

the reflective looks of the finale flash colors, like

using unique and irreplaceable digital data issued

digital stars in the night sky. Closing the show on

from blockchain technology will be auctioned

a high note, the fairy-tale costume worn by Belle,

as NFTs, exploring the new possibilities and

the film’s heroine, is recreated as a long patchwork

experiential dimensions in the virtual fashion world

dress in an aurora borealis-colored reflective

through a cinematic lens.

PAG E

THE NATURE OF FASHION IS FAMILY

AZ FACTORY

LOVE

BR I N G S

T R I BUT E BR I N G S T H E

LOV E S

S H OW T OG E T H ER

WOR LD

F A S H I ON I N

H ON OR

M E M OR Y A LBE R

A N D

E LBA Z

Alber’s mantra was always Love Brings Love. His vision in creating AZ Factory was to inspire a fashion reset to care, with emphasis on love, trust and respect.

Before his passing, Alber began working on a new product story that would pay tribute to the greatest creative minds in fashion.

He was inspired by Théâtre de la Mode, the 1945 Parisian exhibition that brought together French couturiers as a beautiful expression of love and solidarity.

In the heart of Paris at the Carreau du Temple, it is not Alber that paid tribute, but it was AZ Factory and his beloved fashion family that honored the legend with a breathtaking reunion to the man we lost too soon. PAGE

PAG E

The AZ Factory design team was joined by 45 fashion houses and their designers in presenting their personal homages to Alber. The show opened with Alber’s own signature design from AZ Factory,

the MyBody little

black dress that brings cutting edge knitwear technology to couture. Next came one look from each participating house, their own nod to Alber’s legacy, ranging from ready-to-wear to couture. Finally, the AZ Factory design studio presented their own homage to their beloved founder, with 25 looks.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A MAGICAL MOMENT PAGE

C O U R T E S Y

O F

A Z

F A C T O R Y

w w w . a z f a c t o r y . c o m

Talents celebrating talent

“Tonight’s celebration for our dear Alber was a magical moment – talents celebrating talent is a remarkable tribute to the man we all loved so much. We are very humbled by the extraordinary support from all those who participated in the making of the show, and to all those who were able to join us for this historic night.” Laurent Malecaze, CEO PAG E

PAGE

A RMA NI

GIV E NC HY

GI ORGI O

PRIV E’

DR IE S

C O MME

VA N

DE S

JO HN

ROGER S

N OTE N

GA RC ON S

C HRI STO PHER

V A LL I

G I A M B AT T I S T A

D I O R

C HRI STIA N

FE ND I

V E N E TA

C HLOE

CA SA BLA N CA

BURBERRY

B OTTEGA

B A L M AI N

B A L E N C I AG A

A L EXA N D ER

A L AI A

M CQ U EE N

LOVE BRINGS LOVES AN AMBITIOUS PROJECT In order to pull this ambitious project together, AZ Factory enlisted the help of Alber’s closest collaborators from his various fashion adventures. AZ Factory give humble thanks to all the teams and to the participating houses and designers:

ALAÏA – Pieter Mulier ALEXANDER MCQUEEN – Sarah Burton BALENCIAGA – Demna Gvasalia BALMAIN – Olivier Rousteing BOTTEGA VENETA – Daniel Lee BURBERRY – Riccardo Tisci CASABLANCA – Charaf Tajer CHLOE – Gabriela Hearst CHRISTIAN DIOR – Maria Grazia Chiuri

Nicolas Ghesquière - LOUIS VUITTON John Galliano - MAISON MARGIELA Virgil Abloh - OFF-WHITE Raf Simons - RAF SIMONS Ralph Lauren - RALPH LAUREN Rick Owens - RICK OWENS Rosie Assoulin - ROSIE ASSOULIN Chitose Abe - SACAI Anthony Vaccarello - SAINT LAURENT

CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS – Christopher John Rogers

Daniel Roseberry - SCHIAPARELLI

COMME DES GARÇONS – Rei Kawakubo

Simone Rocha - SIMONE ROCHA

DRIES VAN NOTEN – Dries Van Noten FENDI – Kim Jones

Thom Browne - THOM BROWNE

GIORGIO ARMANI – Giorgio Armani

Tomo Koizumi - TOMO KOIZUMI

GIVENCHY – Matthew M. Williams

Pierpaolo Piccioli - VALENTINO

GUO PEI – Guo Pei HERMES – Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski IRIS VAN HERPEN in collaboration with ADOBE – Iris Van Herpen JEAN PAUL GAULTIER – Jean Paul Gaultier LANVIN – Bruno Sialelli LOEWE - Jonathan Anderson

Thebe Magugu - THEBE MAGUGU

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI – Giambattista Valli

GUCCI – Alessandro Michele

PAG E

Stella McCartney - STELLA MCCARTNEY

Donatella Versace - VERSACE Guram Gvasalia - VETEMENTS Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren - VIKTOR & ROLF Vivienne Westwood & Andreas Kronthaler - VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Grace Wales Bonner - WALES BONNER Glenn Martens - Y/PROJECT

PAGE

RA LPH

SAINT

LAURE N

SI MON S

RA F

L AU RE NT

MA R GIE LA

OF F-W HI TE

MAI SO N

SACAI

ASSO UL IN

OWE N S

RO SIE

RIC K

LOUI S

LOE W E

G AU LT I E R

V UI TTON

P AUL

LA N V I N

JEA N

PEI

I RI S

VA N

H ERM È S

G U O

G U CC I

H ERPE N

PAG E

B O NNE R

W E S T WOO D

RO LF

PRO J EC T

WA LE S

VIVIE NNE

VIKTO R

V E TEME NTS

V ER SAC E

V A LE NTIN O

TOMO

THOM

THEBE

KOI ZUMI

BROW N E

MAGUGU

ST EL L A

SI M O N E

M CCA R T N E Y

RO C H A

SC H I APA REL L I

IN HONOR AND MEMORY OF ALBER ELBAZ

C O U R T E S Y

O F

B A L E N C I A G A

BALENCIAGA Balenciaga’s

Summer

presentation

consists of two parts: a photocall on a Hollywood-style red carpet, and a movie premiere. Guests wearing the new collection pause on the walkway before being ushered into a theater screening the short f ilm The Simpsons I Balenciaga. The Simpsons for Balenciaga is the latest in a progression of activations that push certain boundaries set up between fashion and other forms of entertainment, culture, and technology, shifting the brand away f rom an easily def inable category. A cast consisting of Balenciaga’s f riends, models

and

the

Summer

automatic

team 22

members

collection

performance

are

wearing part

wherein

of the

premiere event becomes the show itself. Redcarpet arrivals are documented, setting up a series of role reversals like in The Simpsons I Balenciaga where the audience becomes the protagonists and vice-versa. The

collection

represents

the

complete

Balenciaga palette: a wardrobe of streetwear, daywear, tailoring, elegant eveningwear and pret-couture pieces. Silhouettes vary f rom ultra-slim to disproportionately oversized.

HOLLYW

commitment

responsible

production

continues, represented this season with upcycled denim, leather, f ine textiles, and embroidery, as well as material innovation: plant-based leather is

The

made f rom a mix of f ibers derived f rom cactus and

innovative single mold alternative

bio polymers. 95.2% of plain and printed fabrics in

to the classic derby, made entirely

the collection are certif ied sustainable.

of EVA material. Loafers made

The collection includes several accessory debuts

and updates.

like, accentuating the notion of

Space

soft

calf

Shoe

become

highly

slipper-

comfort in a classic men’s shoe.

PAGE

WOOD-STYLE RED CARPET Part of an ongoing collaboration with

extreme tire tread. Trompe l’oeil boots

Crocs, Hard Crocs turn the soft clog

mimic a stiletto sandal worn over a

into a metal-fortified platform with a

sock. The Cagole Boot is a footwear

cyber goth aesthetic. The Defender

version of the classic studded bag

is a new superchunky sneaker with

made in arena leather.

PAG E

8 1

The XX Bag reinterprets the Hourglass silhouette by filling

its negative space and creating a new form. The Triplet

Bag is an interpretation of a classic chain purse, made

with three separate compartments. Looks are completed with new eyewear, accessory, and jewelry styles.

BETWEEN FASHION AND OTHER FORMS OF E N T E R T A I N M E N T , C U LT U R E , AND TEC HNOLOGY, SHIF TING T H E B R A N D AW AY F R O M A N E A S I LY D E F I N A B L E C AT E G O R Y PAGE

TO BE PART OF A PERFORMANCE

Sed augue ipsum, egestas nec, vestibulum et, malesuada adipiscing, dui. Vestibulum facilisis, purus nec pulvinar iaculis, ligula mi congue nunc, vitae euismod ligula urna in dolor. Mauris sollicitudin fermentum libero. Praesent nonummy mi in odio. Nunc interdum lacus sit amet orci. Vestibulum rutrum, mi nec elementum vehicula, eros Suspendisse feugiat. Suspendisse enim turpis, dictum sed, iaculis a, condimentum nec, nisi. Praesent nec nisl a purus blandit viverra. Praesent ac massa at

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAG E

8 3

ligula laoreet iaculis. Nulla neque dolor, sagittis eget, iaculis quis, molestie non, velit.

PAGE

PAG E

8 5

PAG E

8 7

www.samatexsrl.com

PAGE

PAG E

8 9

CIVIDINI.COM

90 w w w . b a r b a r a b u i . c o m

BARBARA BUI

This film is the story of a meeting of minds: that of four female artists joining forces to create a timeless object unhindered by convention. The designer Barbara Bui, the director Rosalie Charrier, the writer Line Papin and the actress Lomane de Dietrich worked hand in hand to create this inventive project, each contributing her unique vision.

An unique vision

TO CREATE AN INVENTIVE PROJECT

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

PAGE

C O U R T E S Y

O F

B A R B A R A

B U I

THE POWER OF WORDS

TO TELL A STORY A history of fashion tinged with emotions that restores the evocative power of words. A look back on the origins of this film with Barbara Bui and Rosalie Charrier PAG E

9 3

w w w . b e n j a m i n b e n m o y a l . c o m

RECOVERING THE NAIVETE

BENJAMIN BENMOYAL

An unique fabrics

After graduating from Central Saint Martins (where he won the LVMH Grand Prix Scholarship), Benjamin Benmoyal, 30 years old has worked at Alexander McQueen and Hermes before founding his namesake label in 2020.

Benjamin Benmoyal is presenting on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar since 2021,

well

the

FHCM’s

showroom: Sphère.

former

paratrooper,

commando wanted

transcribe in his work the will to recover the naivete lost during his military service. Therefore, he has created very unique fabrics, woven out of his childhood VHS and audio cassette tapes.

He has industrialized this weaving technique and

gathered

thousands

kilometers

of cassette tapes thanks to the help of recycling charities as well as by collecting the dead stocks of factories closed in the 2000s. Benjamin draws inspiration from his Moroccan origins by focusing on volumes and

weaving colourful striped fabrics reminiscent of Berber craft and aesthetic. The huge hats from the SS 2022 Collection are entirely made out of dried flowers and inspired by the Shtreimel, a fur hat worn by Hasidic Jewish men.

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : P H : R A Q U E L

B E N J A M I N B E N M O Y A L S A N N I C O L Á S

drapings from traditional outfits as well as by

THE BERBER CRAFT PAGE

FOCUS ON VOLUMES AND DRAPINGS

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAG E

9 7

BOTTER Botter is a menswear label founded by Rushemy Botter

and

Lisi

Herrebrugh.

They

design

garments in an elegant way. They find themselves looking back at their Caribbean roots. Between Caribbean virility and femininity lays a very thin layer, men are idle. This is why their style is elegant. The use of rare details makes the collections have a poetic feel.

9 8

The collections represent a look into a personal diary, a look and opinion on the world are being expressed through their work. They believe this is important to the relevance of a collection.

GLOBAL WARNING

C O U R T E S Y

O F

B O T T E R

THE USE OF RARE DETAILS

Rushemy Botter was born on Curaçao and have lived a big part of his life in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. He started His fashion studies in Arnhem at a more technical school. From there he went to the Royal academy of The Hague. He knew very fast that he wanted to follow his studies in Antwerp. As soon as he got his propedeuse degree he applied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. He got accepted and was able to develop his creativity each year to a next level. He was mentored by Walter van Beirendonck and in his master year by Dirk van Saene. Along the way he has won a few awards, in his second academy year he won the prize of the most promising student. In his third year he has won the IFF (International Fragrances & Flavours) awards and with his bachelor collection the same year he was picked up by the VFiles jury and won the VFiles Runway 7 prize. He presented his collection during New York Fashion Week and got mentored by Jerry Lorenzo, Naomi Campbell, Mel Ottenberg and Young Thug. With his Master collection he is launching the Botter brand together with his partner Lisi Herrebrugh, who has been working together with him on the background during his studies. Lisi is born in Amsterdam and have lived traveling back and forth between The Netherlands and the Dominican Republic. She is raised bilingual as her mother is Dominican and her father is Dutch. Rushemy and Lisi have met nine years ago before their fashion adventure started and had their dreams pointing in the same direction very quickly. Lisi Herrebrugh have studied at Amsterdam Fashion Institute and graduated Cum Laude. During her studies she interned at the atelier of Viktor & Rolf, where she developed her technical skills as she worked on the first Haute Couture collection Viktor & Rolf made after thirteen years of absence on the Couture calendar. PAGE

1 0 0

His Master collection titled ‘FISH OR FIGHT’ won several awards among which: Dries van Noten award, collection that reflects the most passion for fashion BVBA32 Ann Demeulemeester Award, most promising collection Flanders DC/UA award, most commercial potential Belmodo Award, most visionary collection Weekend Knack award, most promising designer In April 2018 the duo won the Grand Prix of the Festival Hyeres 33. After Hyeres they were finalist for the LVMH Prize 2018. Quickly after this they have been picked up by the Puig group and have been appointed as Creative Directors for the Ready to wear fashion of Nina Ricci. Their first collection has been shown during Fashion Week Paris in March 2019.

w w w . b o t t e r . w o r l d

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

PAG E

101

BOYAROVSKAYA

102

Environment hunting as a response to the deep human drive to occupy new spaces, but once inhabited, the mind seeks new obsession. A vicious thirst, that it’s not physical, yet trapped in the geometrical boundaries of its own building. Same in clothing, person is looking for something new, unseen, trasformable, geometrical and minimalist, where comes their SS22 collection.

C R E A T I V E

THE VILLA M A R I A

A R T E M

P L A M E N A K O N O N E N K O

B O Y A R O V S K A Y A

P H O T O G R A P H Y :

D I R E C T O R :

K A R A L I Y S K A

w w w . b o y a r o v s k a y a . c o m

PERSON IS LOOKING FOR SOMETHING NEW UNSEEN, TRASFORMABLE

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAGE

1 0 4

PAG E

10 5

W W W . B O Y A R O V S K A Y A . C O M

PAGE

1 0 6

PAG E

107

w w w . n o m a d e w a y . c o m

LAURENT FERRIER

108

PAGE

1 0 8

PAG E

109

The acclaimed Maison LAURENT FERRIER, celebrates its 10th anniversary with the release of a classical watch featuring a timeless dial and case ensemble. The Classic Origin Opaline, housed in a sporty Grade 5 titanium case, upholds the company’s revered standards of craftsmanship and horological virtue. Throughout LAURENT FERRIER’s history, the company has produced several complicated watches, including tourbillons, a minute repeater, a natural escapement, a dual time or even an annual calendar. In addition, the Maison has released an array of different case shapes, including its iconic Classic. In 2010, the Galet Classic won an award at the prestigious Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (GPHG). This watch was endowed with a tourbillon and a double balance spring as well as a classic, notably smooth, round case. This was not an isolated success. Furthermore, when the brand released additional models, it invariably received additional accolades. Indeed, LAURENT FERRIER enjoyed further success at the GPHG in 2015 and 2018, notable recognition for its various case designs and movements, all conceived in the brand’s Genevan atelier. These cases and movements continue to endure. This latest timepiece from LAURENT FERRIER, the Classic Origin Opaline, is designed for those individuals who value sobriety and virtue. Created to mark the 10th anniversary of the company, this latest model is housed in a 40mm classic case and encompasses the same smooth curving lines as the inaugural model. However, in this instance, the case is formed of Grade 5 titanium, imbuing the watch with a youthful temperament. Consistent with the Genevan Maison’s inclination for uncluttered aesthetics, the Classic Origin Opaline exhibits a pure appearance. Assegai-shaped hour and minute hands serenely float above a silvery-white opaline dial. The slate grey dial’s hour track is marked with burgundy-coloured numerals which prove highly legible, add a soupçon of sportiness, but remain tastefully understated. PAGE

1 1 0

F E R R I E R L A U R E N T O F C O U R T E S Y ©

A small snailed seconds display, featuring a baton- shaped hand is located above 6 o’clock. All three hands are formed of 18-carat white gold. As previously mentioned, the LAURENT FERRIER Classic case is constructed of Grade 5 titanium, the first time this lightweight alloy has been used by the company. Grade 5 titanium is widely used in both the medical field and the aviation industry because of its impressive array of benefits. It is strong, lightweight, corrosion-resistant and hypoallergenic. The watch is equipped with the Maison’s iconic ‘Ball-shaped’ crown. Beyond its graceful appearance, the scale and shape of the crown facilitate ease of adjustment. PAG E

111

w w w . l a u r e n t f e r r i e r . c h

CECILIE BAHNSEN Cecilie Bahnsen´s Spring Summer 2022 collection is a celebration of the love for craftsmanship and the duality of femininity. The most practiced and technically refined collection to date, brought to life through Cecilie´s artistic collaboration -a sound installation composed by Okay Kaya and photo exhibition by Takashi Homma on view in Paris. The collection and artistic collaborations address the duality within us expressed through an exterior detachment and the gentleness in the sensuality of emotions, “To be both,” the ability to not “Be” only what we feel. The duality is present throughout the collection, film, and exhibition. The result is an emotional collection that celebrates Cecilie and the atelier´s love for the work, featuring new techniques like the utterly beautiful camellia floral cutoutflowers fluttering on fabric, as if the petals were falling gently to the ground from a full bouquet.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

c e c i l i e b a h n s e n . c o m w w w .

A CELEBRATION OF THE LOVE FOR CRAFTSMANSHIP

113

THE GENTLENESS OF IMPERFECTION, THE POETRY OF ASYMMETRY

Exhibited amongst the SS22 collection is the gentleness of imperfection, the poetry of asymmetry. Beautiful drapes tucked up on one side, an idea coming from the morning bike rides tying the skirts out of the way with an untethered bow. Looking at Calder´s mobiles, “Drawings in space,” the uncanny perfect balance of the graceful forms and translating this to the sculptural silhouettes, evolving from previous seasons. Not trying to control the space the garment inhabits, but celebrating the every-day elements, the movement, the electricity of how it feels when you put the piece on, brought to life with couture craftsmanship. The idea of making a collection you want to live in and dream in- to make your own. PAGE

1 1 4

different fabrics. Textures completely unique, a touch only recognizable as Cecilie Bahnsen. Discreet tonal embroidery inspired by the Victorian style of cyanotype printing, the negative

P H :

L A S S E

D E A R M A N

C R E A T I V E J O S E F I N E

D I R E C T O R : C E C I L I E B A H N S E N S E I F E R T P H A S S I S T A N T P E T E R

W I L L I A M

space creating an elevated texture.

V I N T H E R

The conceptual motifs play a pivotal role in the collection, translated meticulously across the

PAG E

11 5

CHANEL117 EMOTIONS AND MEMORIES OF THE RAISED RUNWAYS OF THE 1980S

Inspired by the magic of fashion seen through the photographer’s lens, the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2022 Ready-to-Wear show evokes the

heightened

emotions

and

memories of the raised runways of

the

1980s

W W W . C H A N E L . C O M

photographers

surrounded and

flashbulbs.

Romantic with a touch of mystery, the

collection

balances

the

graphic purity of black and white, playful summer stripes, and the dark whimsy of a butterfly’s wings on black chiffon.

AN ICONIC CATWALK

RECREATING THE RUNWAY ENERGY PAGE

1 1 8

THE INTIMATE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE PHOTOGRAPHER AND THE MODEL: A RELATIONSHIP LAGERFELD CHERISHED

PAG E

11 9

LOVING

PAGE

1 22

PAG E

1 2 1

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : V I R G I N I E © C O U R T E S Y O F C H A N E L

V I A R D

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

G FLASHBULBS

D I R E C T O R : C O U R T E S Y

G A B R I E L A O F C L O E ’

H E A R S T

ENVIRONMENTAL ACTIONS

A R T I S T I C

122

CHLOÉ “Of all the worn, smudged, dog-eared words in our vocabulary, “love” is surely the grubbiest, smelliest, slimiest. Bawled f rom a million pulpits, lasciviously crooned through hundreds of millions of loudspeakers, it has become an outrage to good taste and decent feeling, an obscenity which one hesitates to pronounce. And yet it has to be pronounced; for, after all, Love is the last word.” – Aldous Huxley (1894–1963) “It’s all about Love.” Gabriela Hearst, Creative Director at Chloé

This

season, Chloé

introduces

Chloé

cannot be mimicked by machinery , only

Craft. They believe luxury fashion has

mastered by the human hand.

become

the

While Chloé Craft is innately low impact,

Maison is expanding the number of their

the challenge is to f ind ways of making

products handcrafted by independent

the items produced in larger quantities

artisans. They are embossing

more eco-conscious. This

overly

industrialized,

all of

season

these products with a signature spiral

design of Chloé staples such

symbol. Chloé Craft seeks to pioneer new

Tote bag , Nama sneakers and denim

levels of traceability and transparency

have been improved to incorporate more

in the industry and establish a deeper

recycled

connection between consumers

while preserving their highest standard

local

producers. These

and

techniques

the their

and lower impact materials

of quality.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

THE ITEMS ECO -CONSCIOUS They have worked to limit the environmental impact of their Summer 2022 collection by increasing their use of lower impact materials ( up to 58 % of the collection vs 40% in Winter 2021 , vs 55% on Spring 2022 ). The list of what they consider as lower impact materials is available on Chloe.com and was previously approved by external experts. For example, more than 50% of the wool they use is “lower impact”* and they continue to promote

the use of deadstock materials for fabrics and embellishments. *The

wool

used

these

products comes f rom a farm that respects animal welfare and maintains soil health, protects biodiversity

and

promotes

native species or f rom a recycled wool. Dresses are adorned with metal talismans sourced f rom dead-stock jewelry f indings and components. Stripes are hand-painted on cashmere and voile in various shades of vegetable-based blue dye.

Multi-colored

up-cycled

fabrics leftover f rom previous collection are shredded, knotted and macramed by hand into new garments. Leather ribbon is whip-stitched by hand around the edges of garments, f raming them with a touch of handicraft. Hand-cut

vegetable

dyed

leather is patchworked into a dynamic

composition

taken

directly f rom one of Gabriela’s drawings. Another of her drawings comes to life as a series of suede forms floating

handcrocheted

web. PAGE

1 24

MULTI COLORED UP-CYCLED FABRICS

THE HIGHEST STANDARD OF QUALITY Multicolor hand-crocheted scallops cover the surface of a signature wingedsilhouette knitted dress. Found seashells are hand-woven into necklaces made with dead-stock Chloé fabrics f rom previous seasons, interspersed with gemstones as described below. The gemstones found throughout the collection are all naturally sourced. PAG E

1 25

Their individual properties are as follows: Grey Agate Supports one in feeling grounded and balanced. Brings stability in times of change. Amethyst Protects you from negative energy. Enhances your intuition and psychic abilities. Apatite Helps soothe the nervous system and maintain inner balance. Enhances psychic awareness and opens the mind to insight and inspiration. Calcite Revitalizes and works to clear blockages in the body’s energy systems. Carnelian Activates the first three chakras and provides a powerful boost to your willpower. Gold stone Assists in attaining goals. Reduces tension, revitalizes the wearer and encourages a positive attitude. Labradorite Facilitates awareness of multiple layers of reality at the same time Lapis Lazuli Activates psychic abilities and intuition Activates

the

root

chakra

and

W W W . C L O E . C O M

Obsidian

grounds you in your connection to the Earth. Clears the aura of negative energy. Sodalite

Stimulates

the

mind

and

consciousness to enhance intuition, creativity and the powers of analysis and observation.

THE PROPERTIES OF THE PRECIOUS STONES USED IN THE COLLECTION

PAGE

1 26

SOCIAL ACTIONS OCEAN SOLE The soles of our new Chloé Lou line are made in collaboration with OCEAN SOLE, a social enterprise that upcycles flip-flops, which have been collected and

found

washed-up

along

the

beaches and waterways in Kenya. Each piece is made with care as OCEAN SOLE artisans collect the washedup flip-flops and clean them before shaping the material. More than 150 full-time employees and flip-flop suppliers work with OCEAN SOLE to give plastic waste a second, more longlasting life. Their aim is to recycle a million flip flops a year and at least one ton of styrofoam a month. OCEAN SOLE supports over 1,200 Kenyans through the employment and collection of flip flops. They provide health care and have educated more than 12,000 students about conservation. So far they have put over 200 children through

school

with

their

wages,

payment for flip-flop supplies and scholarships. PAG E

1 27

128

THE POWER OF MOTHER NATURE The Christian Wijnants Spring - Summer 2022 collection connects the power of mother nature with the desire for purity. Inspired by the healing powers of nature, the collection conveys a time for breathing new life into adaptation and connection. The sound of the sea where the waves crash against the rocks, up and down, strong and weak. The sound of birdsongs signaling that spring has sprung. The whispering sound of wind in trees and rustling leaves. Creating

Spring/Summer

2022

brought Wijnants on a spiritual quest for a deeper sense of humanity and inner beauty, forming an emotional collection that is both sensual and contented with simplicity. A vibrant assortment of free-flowing silhouettes and volume, drapey pieces to wear as you wish, fluid dresses, bold linen suiting, crochet handmade pieces inspired by spiderwebs. The idea of tying a silk scarf as a halter-neck dress or top. The color palette is strong and bold, colorful yet neutral. Dynamic hues of tangerine, white, purple, bronze, gray, blue, lilac, beige, and forest green mixed in together. Floral prints painted on silk reflect a blurry impression of an undefined flower. Light and transparent fabrics are used throughout for ease and comfort. Spring/Summer 2022 is a dialogue with mother nature that brings that same ease and energetic sensuality that is both powerful and subtle. It is charged with intimacy and purity, combined with strength, respect and love. This feeling of freedom suggests individuality to live through one’s instinct and personal will, a homage to effortless sophistication and an experimental mutiny against excess.

w w w . c h r i s t i a n w i j n a n t s . c o m

A R T I S T I C

D I R E C T O R : C H R I S T I A N P H : D A V I D P A I G E

W I J N A N T S

CHRISTIAN WIJNANTS

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A R T I S T I C

D I R E C T O R : M I R I A M & P I E R O © C O U R T E S Y O F C I V I D I N I

C I V I D I N I

130 CIVIDINI THE LEI TMOTIV OF THE NEW SS 22 C OLLEC TI ON BY CIVIDINI IS THE CONTRAST: MEASURED, DISCREET AND DECISIVE ELEGANCE, INSPIRED NOT BY FASHI ON BUT BY ST YLE.

Aesthetic, Contrasts, Rigorous and minimal DESIGN

LIVE IN CONTRASTS Cividini and fashion, its consequent expression, live in contrasts: this concept is the basis of the new Cividini collection for next Spring Summer 2022. On the catwalk was clothes designed according to the philosophy of aesthetic contrast, a concentrate of creativity and manufacturing of the highest quality, distinctive trait of the real Made in Italy, capable of bringing together f ine and contrasting artisan elements in balance: the built opposes the minimal , narrow to wide, short to long and casual to tailoring, creating a harmonious aesthetic fusion.

SUPERLATIVE-QUALITY CRAFTSMANSHIP

Cividini once again proposes superlative-quality craftsmanship clothing, created to last over time, according to a sustainable vision, expression of a ref ined, clean and modern design, without ever losing the most genuine tradition of craftsmanship: a practical, essential and sophisticated wardrobe, able to grasp current events and contemporaneity in his choices.

PAGE

1 32

Wide trousers with double loop position to be worn Buggy or Regular depending on where you put on the belt with the minimal silk shirt are opposed to the double cotton shorts with high turn-up and silk T-shirt with ramage design made with the stencil. The linen dress with small handkerchief sleeves and pleats with slit on the f ront in contrast to the high gauge cotton dress with a cubic weave and “labyrinth” scroll design. And again the dress in viscose jersey and devoré polyamide with floral motif plays with full and empty spaces, while the asymmetrical cotton sweater with stylized floral inlays is combined with the calflength skirt with f ree pleats and central closure with snaps. The double cotton pea coat with patch pockets and flap f inds its natural combination with shorts in the same material, for a relaxed but urban look, and the vaguely military-style double-breasted duster is combined with the knee-length skirt with pleat and slit and shirt in linen net in all white version.

A CHIC STYLE WITH A RELAXED URBAN LOOK PAG E

1 33

FABRICS

The accessories give a chic touch: bags, belts and sneakers made with natural cowhide leathers and woven straw, as well as hand-woven leather rattles. There are many fabrics: f rom cotton to linen, f rom tulle to jersey, f rom viscose to silk, f rom stretch wool crepe to linen canvas with a malted effect, f rom pinstripe cotton to that with Vichy and Prince of Wales design. Color is not renounced: optical white and cream predominate, as opposed to charcoal, sugar paper and khaki.

PAGE

1 34

Palazzina Appiani, Napoleon’s residence, was the grandstand that made f rame the digital presentation of the new Spring Summer 2022 collection by Cividini: the goal was to make you immerse yourself in a sumptuous environment, with neoclassical beauty and without time, as well as timeless are its designs, a continuous reference to the noble Italian textile tradition. The grandstand designed by the Canonica is a real jewel, with simple and linear shapes, surrounded by the greenery of the largest park in Milan, with a privileged view of the civic arena, which f its perfectly with the royal charm of the maison Cividini that brought to the catwalk pieces ennobled by a knowhow capable of crossing the seasons and of always being absolutely modern, the result of the ref ined taste of the designers and craftsmanship mixed with modern technology.

w w w . c i v i d i n i . c o m

THE NOBLE ITALIAN TEXTILE TRADITION

PAG E

1 35

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

COPERNI The Spring-Summer 2033 collection is an expression of a near future, not a futuristic science fiction but rather what we shall hope and dream for. A contrast with the ode to the night of the Autumn Winter Drive-in show, this season represents the light as a ballad to the sun. During extraordinary moments of consciousness, our senses of time and self are altered; we may even feel time and self dissolving. The collection is a tribute to a powerful nature. Fields of beautiful, fragrant and thrilling hemp, the fastest growing plant on earth, the good, the healthy, and the sustainable medicinal substance of the cannabis leaves. A balm for bodies and minds. Prints and materials are a reminder of nature. With their psychedelic shapes and oddness, such as the shells, they are taking us to unexpected places. A patchwork print depicting the sun alongside a skull, a funny cartoon, the image of a woman meditating, or a scary sea creature, are printed on a precious silk chiffon proving the ambiguity that permeates the collection. Continuing

with

the

technology

inspired

series

accessories,

Coperni’s the

new

Origami bag is inspired by the iPhone photos app icon but is also a reminder of the subtle floral theme.

137

AN EXPRESSION OF A NEAR FUTURE Fantasying can be good for those who want to escape from reality : it means daydreaming and illusion. It takes us to some trips that will provide freedom and happiness. When the states of consciousness are altered, the mind becomes clearer, the creation becomes wider, and dreams are possible. The classic Swipe bag is melting in an altered state, as an homage to the Melting Clock of Salvador Dali. Denim cargo pants, long skirts, baggy shorts and Cowboy boots are coated with an iridescent effect that offer a futuristic exploration with sensory promises. The lowwaist pants and crop tops are a clear reference to the 2000’s aesthetic and embody a teenage-flavored uniform. Deconstructed tailored jackets, pants and skirt are envisioned with removable suspenders that always expose the shoulders and play with the norms. The cut-out jacket can be worn in several possible ways, enhancing the possibility of exploring different styles, always keeping a feeling of casual elegance.

A TRIBUTE TO A POWERFUL NATURE

PAGE

1 38

PSYCHEDELIC SHAPES

PAG E

1 39

Fantasying can be good for those who want to escape from reality: it means day dreaming and illusion. It takes us to some trips that will provide freedom and happiness

PAGE

1 4 0

In this psychedelic yet inviting atmosphere, Coperni introduces the cocooning dresses and tops, which, with their hand embroidered sequins and beads, envelope the body in a meditative state, a recomforting self-hug. The futuristic sunglasses are a teaser to what’s yet to come for Coperni.

For the first time, Coperni designs a jewelry collection in collaboration with Alan Crocetti in which the Coperni’s signature Swipe shape is redesigned into silver Swipe rings and earrings. Anklets, rings and necklaces are adorned with colorful eyes and the escapularios are a continuity with the fantasy world that submerges the collection.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

PAG E

1 41

A R T I S T I C

D I R E C T O R : S É B A S T I E N M E Y E R , P H : L U C A T O M B O L I N I

A R N A U D

V A I L L A N T

A FANTASY WORLD SUBMERGES THE COLLECTION

PAGE

1 4 2

PAG E

1 43

W W W . C O P E R N I P A R I S . C O M

F U T U R I S T I C

S H A P E S E S

COURRÈGES

144

BOTH OF US KNOWING After the club «La Station» in Aubervilliers last March, the monumental Courrèges white square lands on September 29, 2021 in a new party place: the Bois de Vincennes in Paris. A park on the edge of the city where many free parties have taken place in recent years. The square, stripped of its walls, is here soberly signified on the ground with paint*, taking nature as a decor. At the origin of this collection, and for this second show, a memory: it is in this clearing that Nicolas Di Felice and his friend Erwan Sene - with whom he composed the soundtrack of the show, danced all

These memories of jubilation have fed a

night long a few summers ago.

collection designed around the festival wear.

A moment of grace that inaugurated many others:

In line with what was initiated by Nicolas Di

notably the

Felice, the archetypes of the counterculture

reunion with his boyfriend after the

lockdown, when the of the

Bois de Vincennes was one

only places where youth could still party

are mixed here subtly to the vocabulary of Courrèges - all with an atelier know-how.

together. «Both of us knowing», by invoking these

Thus, the capes start with an extremely simple

times of

Felice,

and geometric pattern (inspired by a round

pays homage to these moments of intimacy that,

cape from 1968, a triangular one from 1969 and

sometimes, crowds experience in unison. A way for

a square one from 1995) with a cutting detail

Courrèges to show its desire to be one with its public.

to build the shoulder.

friendship dear

Nicolas Di

PAGE

1 4 6

w w w . c o u r r e g e s . c o m

THE VOCABULARY OF COURRÈGES The proportions have been exaggerated to

was inspired by the straps of a 1976 Courrèges

completely cover the

dress (the first piece in Nicolas Di Felice’s personal

body or for cuddling

together underneath. Parkas and bombers come into dialogue with heritage coats and trapeze skirts. The «Loop» theme, crisscrossing yokes of fabric

collection, acquired years earlier). Fabrics and prints continue to reinvent heritage, like this trompe-l’oeil ribbed knit made from strips of mirrored vegetal vinyl or these diagonal

even on the handles of this season’s «Loop» bag,

stripes taken from a 1968 chevron stripe.

LOOP THEME

found on bras, dresses, skirts, baggy pants and

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAG E

1 47

PAGE

1 4 8

A FORM OF PURISM AT THE HEART OF COURRÈGES

PALETTE COLORS Silver, azure blue, pink (André Courrèges’ favorite color, a symbol of tenderness and optimism), pale yellow and ochre: a palette that subtly suggests the world of techno and punctuates a collection with an assumed minimalism. Like these «scarf» dresses in transparent pleated mesh, composed of two rectangles of fabric and attached by two triangles. Or the last three dresses, each made of a simple strip of fabric, like for the girls wrapped in a piece of vinyl for a 1963 fashion show and immortalized by Irving Penn. «Both of us knowing» claims a form of purism at the heart of Courrèges and dear to Nicolas Di Felice. To better revive the feelings.

PAG E

1 49

AN EXPRESSIONS OF RARE BEAUTY

Daniele Ancarani In English we say to put oneself in someone’s shoes to express the unique vantage point afforded by the perspective that anchors each of us to our human condition. We are all torn between Apollonian forces which lift us up to the heavens, and the Dionysian force which root us in place. The tension between the abstract and the concrete, the ethereal and

151

the mundane, f inds no better expression than in shoes. It is an existential dilemma: our personal integrity

must necessarily f ind expression in unique spatial grounding. The feet of clay in Nabuchadnezzar’s dream signal a lack of purpose, as fatal a flaw in biblical times as it is today. Daniele Ancarani is

inspired by this archaic dualism, designing and producing shoes that are expressions of rare beauty and bearers of archaic philosophical tension.

His footwear serves the needs of physical mobility, while expressing a joyful standard of beauty echoing the modernist challenge of gravitation force. His shoes are solid, of obvious comfort, but light and airy. At times the daring lines suggest the suspension of our physical limitations, an architecture whose

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : D A N I E L E A N C A R A N I © C O U R T E S Y O F D A N I E L E A N C A R A N I

oblique lines defy gravity. This is no leaning tower, but a deconstructivist creation with solid foundations. The images of his muse, Drusilla Foer, represent his

FW2021

collection

magnif icently,

balance between the aristocratic and the downto-earth. The photographs and videos which launch the collection are ref ined expressions of context: real people in real places, with the tactile pleasure of real surfaces, f rom f inely veined chestnut doors to the ref ined sheen of polished stone. Context is queen, we might say: all things exist in place. These ref ined expressions of Italian artisanship link the wearer to the soil while elevating them to the highest planes of human ref inement. A genealogy of talent takes us f rom the garçonne look of Coco Chanel, to the exquisite femininity of Christian Dior, down through the bold modernity of Mary Quaint. Daniele Ancarani carries

forward

this

daring

tradition

with

personality and verve.

Gregory Overton Smith D.Phil. Oxford Temple University Rome PAGE

1 54

THE EXPRESSIONS OF ITALIAN ARTISANSHIP PAG E

1 53

w w w . d a n i e l e a n c a r a n i . c o m

w w w . m i d o r j . c o m

Dawei offers a wardrobe for women who want to express their personality, with a contemporary luxury silhouette that can be worn at any age.

Dawei’s design can be seen in the choice

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : D A W E I S U N P H O T O G R A P H Y : Y A N N I S V L A M O S

of noble materials, structured silhouettes and freedom of expression, for a new modern luxury based on the know-how of French Couture.

A graduate of the ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture in Paris, Dawei quickly joined the studios of major fashion houses with Balenciaga and John Galliano. In 2010, he and his friend launched the ready-to-wear brand Belle Ninon, the creative duo was then hired as Artistic Director of the Cacharel house.

In 2016, he created his eponymous brand Dawei alone.

In 2019 Dawei entered the official fashion calendar and he was nominated as one of the finalists for the Andam Fashion Award.

w w w . d a w e i s t u d i o . c o m

159 DAWEI

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : E C E P H : K E V I N L A R R E G U Y

E G E

160 DICE KAYEK

For its Spring Summer22 collection film, Dice Kayek

thriller, set in the vast estate of an 18th century

teams up with long-standing collaborator, the

French castle - the Chateau d’Aunoy.

masterful director Marie Schuller.

In the aftermath of worldwide confinement, it is a

Fashioning a new facet of its cinematic storytelling,

celebration of freedom and compassion, a riveting

they stage this luminous collection as a fantastical

reverie empowered by the wonders of Nature.

This effervescent collection evolves Dice Kayek’s exploration of historical details through classic items of the contemporary wardrobe. Impeccable poplin shirting is trimmed with peek-a-boo lace, silk mikado sculpts tailoring staples with polished precision, occasional crinolines giving midi dresses a dramatic twist. The silhouettes culminate in a romantic blend of 18th century inspired shirting and 70’s volumes and accessories, complete with psychedelic prints. Swathed in this modern interpretation of court dress,

AN EFFERVESCENT COLLECTION

this season’s woman is reminiscent of a wayward aristocrat, flushed by the crisp country air.

PAGE

1 62

The film opens on a seemingly idyllic scene, four girls roam free in a labyrinthic castle and its wild English garden, relishing in the beauty of its bounty. We soon become aware of a looming presence haunting their every move, trapping them in a nightmarish loop they can’t seem to escape….In a sudden, synergetic motion they face this faceless foe, revealing the strong, fearless - and heavily armed fighters they actually are. In stark contrast with their immaculate clothes and angelic features, their hunt proves to be as fierce and feral as the monster itself. A fantastical tale of faux semblants, it disguises a message of courage and acceptance in the folds of a lavish fairytale, in a moment where our reality is most in need of them. The film will be airing online on Saturday, October 2nd, at 10.00 am

w w w . d i c e k a y e k . c o m

(cet) on fhcm.com, on dicekayek.com and Dice Kayek Instagram.

PAG E

1 6 3

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

The disaster is coming for you , again.

THE LAST DANCE OF LIFE

Just because we’re out of the woods with COVID-19, doesn’t mean that we’re good. Social issues are still here. The climate emergency is still here. What we did to the planet is still here. Let’s be real. No matter what we do, even with the most stringent restrictions, we won’t be able to revert entirely what our species has done. There’s only one solution: to have a positive attitude and try to find the silver lining. We, humans, are the ones who got ourselves into this mess, but we can’t just shrug off the consequences and think “Life’s a beach then you die”. We have to be an active part of the solution. Almost-certain doom is no reason to give up. We put out best foot forward and reach back into the past to save what remains. That’s why they used the lightweight technical fabrics often used in bathing suits in the collection. As we adapt to this new reality, so does our wardrobe, which becomes sophisticated from items once seen as casual. There is a new elegance in these times, where struc-

DIDU 164 ture and tailoring are less constraint than comple-

ment to the body, outlining what needs to be seen, hiding what mustn’t. Skin becomes a fabric too, seen

and played with through openings and transparencies.

DIDU wanted to explore in this new collection,

and so too does the landscape, turning into the

with its cowboy accents and liquid silhouettes,

unfamiliar and the anticipatory. This too is our last

where textiles cling and flow against the body. Like

dance with life, our last connection to a nature we

water. Like time. As a sign of adaptability, lacing

no longer feel around us and a future that may not

and closures are decorative as they are practical.

exist. It is a wish projected into the abyss, hoping

Denim, often seen in their collections, returns here

to just emerge on the other side with no other

to express the nobility of utility, again a collision of

expectation that being alive.

before and now.

For the first time, DIDU was presented on the

The video likewise takes us into the kind of place

official Paris Fashion Week schedule, an event that

only a metropolis of the future like Shanghai can

marks a new chapter for the brand. The proof that

invent: a ranch on a rooftop, horses rearing up

even when things are dire, the world can still be

against the open skies between the buildings. As

your oyster.

D I D U

we flow into the future unseen, our vision evolves

w w w . d i d u - o f f i c i a l . c o m

C O U R T E S Y

O F

Living in this uncharted, uncertain reality is what

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

NONSENSE The imagination of this Dior spring-summer 2022

(Extract

f rom

ready-to-wear collection is fuelled by curiosity,

January 1961, quoted in the book

desire and research. It is built around a network

Dior by Mare Bohan, published by

of connections: Maria Grazia Chiuri explores the

Assouline, 2018.)

long period in Dior’s history when Mare Bohan was

Maria

artistic director of the Maison. More specif ically,

approaches the early 1960s to

she highlights the S/im Look collection, conceived

sketch

in 1961, of which the press wrote: “It completely

and trace a new lexicon in our

changes fashion, just as the New Look did in 1941”.

pandemic-torn society.

Grazia

the

L’Aurore

Chiuri

shapes

thus

change

167 DIOR These silhouettes reveal cuts and

These colors also symbolize the spatial

graphic

geometries at the heart of the games

yellow, green, red, blue, orange

devised by artist Anna Paparatti to question

and raspberry, like a co/gold block

the rules of art and life. Maria Grazia Chiuri

that revisits the aesthetics of Mare

was inspired by her singular looks and

Bohan.

wanted her to conceive the setting of the

effects

transposed

fashion show as a “game of the absurd” reflecting the spirit of her various works. (Anna Paparatti was inspired by her various creations on the subject of God, such as her work Le Jeu du non-sens).

A NETWORK OF CONNECTIONS

Reinvented jackets with boxy cuts, ref ined coats, skirts, shorts, dresses, all these pieces are combined in multiple ways. Some of the designs are made with 3D embroidery and are enriched by a structured visual effect. Materials such as scuba and nylon reinterpret volumes, revolutionising the look of the woman wearing them. Models to shine in clubs, reminiscent of the legendary Roman nightclub, the Piper Club, a huge and colourful place, an emblem of f reedom

PAGE

1 6 8

A laboratory experimenting with the arts and fashions without prejudice, offering unique creativity - like the Palace of Paris -, a place where artists, philosophers, muses and actors, among others, mingled. In an absolutely new and unexpected context, like this collection, embodied by Anna Paparatti’s Il gioco del nonsense. Nonsense, as Susan Stewart writes, is “perfect, pure, a blank surface of meaning whose every movement invites reflection”. (Dans /’ouvrage Nonsense: Aspects of lntertextuality in Folklore and Literature,aux éditions Johns Hopkins University Press, 1979).

PAG E

1 6 9

PAGE

1 70

2022

C H I U R I

PRINTEMPS-ÉTÉ

D I R E C T O R : M A R I A G R A Z I A © C O U R T E S Y O F D I O R

PRET-À-PORTER

A R T I S T I C

DIOR

w w w . d i o r . c o m

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAG E

171

173 JAQUET DROZ BIRD REPEATER “300TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION”: A HISTORICAL EDITION PAYING HOMAGE TO THE BIRTHPLACE OF SWISS WATCHMAKING

Issued in eight pieces to celebrate the 300th anniversary of the founder Pierre JaquetDroz, the Bird Repeater, an automaton with a minute repeater, embodies the essence of the House. Its dial in white mother-of-pearl and black onyx features appliqués in 18K red gold. Multiple bird animations, eggs hatching and the river in the background breathe life into this creation. This weave of intricate animations, completely engraved and painted by hand, resonates with a minute repeater, which is housed at the heart of its 18K red gold case in 47mm, one of fine watchmaking’s most virtuoso complications. In 2012, Jaquet Droz revolutionized wristwatches by creating the Bird Repeater collection. These Haute Horlogerie innovations are the culmination of all the House’s Ateliers d’Art techniques in a single piece, combining traditional watchmaking aesthetic with their one-of-a-kind automaton expertise, in the same movement. In short, this watch displays the Jaquet Droz quintessence and three centuries of heritage, in a single resolutely contemporary creation. For this anniversary edition, Jaquet Droz returns to the theme of nature to animate its automatons. In the foreground are two robins, one male and one female, like those that can be seen and heard all around the Swiss Valleys, known for their song and proximity to mankind. In the background, to the right, is a farmhouse. However, it’s not just any farmhouse: it’s a replica of the farmhouse where Pierre Jaquet-Droz was born exactly 300 years ago. This historical nod is coupled with a verdant valley and river flowing through it on the left. Again, there is no room for doubt - this is La Ronde, encircling the La Chaux-de-Fonds valley. There is also a Gentian flower in the foreground, whose especially fine wood grain is used by watchmakers for the ultimate polishing of their components. The plant is also used for its medicinal values and alcoholic beverages that have contributed to the region’s success. Left, right and center, the natural characteristics of La Chaux-de-Fonds are present: red berries and holly leaves, a blue butterfly announcing the arrival of summer and other animals hidden in the scene. A dragonfly can also be spotted, a symbol of strength and fighting spirit, a grasshopper is also featured, whose powerful leap forward embodies risk-taking, the ability to seize opportunities and move oneself forward, much like Jaquet Droz does today, while drawing on three centuries of heritage to move forward in the 21st century built on art and wonders.

PAGE

1 74

PAG E

175

w w w . j a q u e t - d r o z . c o m

A B A N D O N C O LO U R F U L A N D B E G I N N I N G

colour and emotion. The Holi festival in India, awash in vivid pigments, symbolic of a new beginning and

S Y M B O L I C

A festival of love.Joy shared. An explosion of bold

O F

N E W

INSPIRATION

colourful abandon. Open arms to our return to joy. One heart beats of many parts.A wide spectrum f rom the loud and audacious to the whispering and intimate. When vivid and pulsating passion explodes.

Euphoric

and

trippy,

pulling

focus

on a dilated view on life. The familiar becomes mysterious and exotic as images blur. The collective energy and joy of a rowdy audience, f ireworks, pop & rock concerts, burning man.

DRIES VAN NOTEN

177

LET THE PARTY BEGIN!

BRING THE PASSION AND JOY!

THE POWER OF THE FASHION

A continuation in our homage to the power of the fashion editoria! with a fashion shoot by Rafael Pavarotti and film by Albert Moya. Bring the passion and joy! Let the party begin! PAGE

1 78

FORM A new lithe and sculptural silhouette for this season. Fitted shapes emphasise the body- more sculptural. Loose DVN structured staples in daring colours. Many references to couture, a fitted skirt, in hand made smocking, opens in a wide volant. Layering muslin of many tones, a nod to the nineties. Exaggerated balloon sleeves and dresses. Much

smocking,

ruching

and

plisse.

Diaphanous shapes, feather light and floating. Halter dresses, caftans, and a nod

w w w . d r i e s v a n n o t e n . c o m

to the intimacy of lingerie

PAG E

179

COLOURS

Powerful, strong, pigmented, saturated.Technical and elaborate bring depth and dimension to colours. Traditional rules of association are abandoned and ignored. chartreuse, ali hues of yellow from imperial to florescent, orange, blues from electric, neon to royal and baby, purple, mint, turquoise, chocolate taupe, fuchsia, cloque with stripes in black. PAGE

1 80

FABRICS All variations possible, from the masculine, weighty and dry to the light and fluffy. Textures brings suppon and definition to colour choices. The art of hand stitched smocking is pushed to its limits creating sculptural shapes and shaping a new silhouette. A wide panoply of textiles builds the story this season, the techniques of producing jacquards are challenged further and seem even embossed, wool gabardine, cotton taffeta, photo-printed silks, silk mousseline and pongee evoke the first Dries an Noten collection and that of 1996-97, textured polyesters, Retro swimsuit ruching, Classic cotton poplin, voiles and drills, the transparency and structure of transparent polyesters in green and reds. Velvet for garments and accessories.

PAG E

1 8 1

Big colourful stains replicate being doused with pigment at the Holi festival in India. The experience ofblurred photography of night scenes of Antwerp & beyond- from the “Chiquita building “to the Centrai Station are shared with the last men’s collection. Blurring photographs of the familiar brings imagery to a trippy, more abstract, and universal dimension: explosive

PRINT & EMBELLISHMENT

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : D R I E S V A N P H : R A F A E L P A V A R O T T I

N O T E N

fireworks, blurred flower prints as a conduit for joy.

An arial photograph of a massive crowd printed in repeat replicates tweed, A small club, hard rock band. the audience caught in a red spotlight. Friend’s sit around a dinner table, trompe l’a:il embroidery and multi multi colour beading, magnified pixelated images of flowers become abstracted motifs. Images of hand knot nets become diamond motifs. PAGE

1 82

ACCESSORIES

Pearls and beads are fixed to form patterns and motifs, bring dimension to fabric prints and embellish accessories.When applied to sheer fabrics, arms seem covered in pearls and otherworldly. Shoes range from a traditional man’s style, sporty puffy sandals to super high platform wedges in vibrant and classic colours from playful pastels to blacks and navy.

AN UNIVERSAL DIMENSION PAG E

1 8 3

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

184

fashion system

and

Massimiliano, new partner

Segromigno in Monte, was born in 1969 from the

of the

idea of the founders, Antonio and his wife Bruna. The

they have expanded the organizational structure

experience transmitted through generation moved

introducing a creative office with which they have

the firm under the control of Andrea, Claudia,

been worki ng for some years now. Sab Shoes,

Chiara and Stefano that from 2008 are involve di

by the creative attitude introduced, has ventured

the application of artisan know-how with industriai

into the birth of a new brand of women’s footwear,

production. This

which responds to only one philosophy: Classic

mindset bring them through

collaborations with big and famous brand of the

firm. By their skills and

professionalism

with Twist. A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : A L B E R T O M A T E R A © C O U R T E S Y O F C L A S S I C O C O N T W I S T

Sab Shoes SRL, a family-run company based

w w w . s a b s h o e s . i t

In forever search of thrill and picturesque, a

A colorful horizon, in gradients of orange,

new generation of women is boldly initiated

red, lime and orion blue, cascades into soft

into the contemporary cosmopolitan with ELIE

ruffling, long flowing silk georgette that wrap

SAAB Ready-to-Wear Spring/Summer 2022. Their

into revealing knotted necklines and one-

wardrobes overflow with light, effortless and

shoulder dresses. Jumpsuits and mini long-

186 sophisticated style that attractively carry them

sleeve cocktail dresses dazzle in blazing red

on their extravagant voyages through fantastical

and coral sequin swirls, while verdant floral

splendor and attractive landscapes.

patterns naturally bloom through f resh white

Classically feminine silhouettes are made exciting,

crepe and chiffon. The collection is made to suit

relaxed and versatile in vibrant, pulsating colors

capricious whims, effortlessly moving f rom day

and easy-moving, plush materials. Monogram fever

to night with just a subtle change of attitude

takes over in a print pants suit, a delicate yarn-

and an accessory or two.

embroidered accent bomber jackets, and an airy

A daywear elegant plissé printed skirt is easily

macramé knit dress.

paired with a structured crop top.

V O Y A G E S

E X T R A V A G A N T

T H E

T H R O U G H

, F A N T A S T I C A L

S P L E N D O R

SPLENDOR IN THE SUN

ELIE SAAB

A CASUAL-CHIC APPEAL

For more semi-formal fun, a black jumpsuit with cady f ringes, gold metal accents and shoes and a bag to match,

or a gabardine castle wall beige skirt with a thigh high slit

and tucked in ELIE SAAB logo embroidered jersey t-shirt. Flowery shorts, halter and wrap tops have a casual-chic appeal as do safari-inspired sahara taupe mini dresses.

Intricately woven textures daringly flirt with translucent

forms in the couturier’s quintessential beaded gowns in effervescent pops of vigorous color.

PAGE

1 88

MOVING FROM DAY TO NIGHT

PAG E

1 8 9

w w w . e l i e s a a b . c o m

CLASSICALLY FEMININE SILHOUETTES ELIE SAAB Ready-to-Wear Spring/Summer 2022 brings the elegant boho-chic of the caref ree seventies to the present moment by creating f resh, effortless looks that appeal to ref ined youthful hearts. This collection is for every woman exquisitely dressed for any escapade that meets her path.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAGE

1 90

THE

PAG E

1 9 1

OF THE

CAREFREE

SEVENTIES

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : E L I E S A A B © C O U R T E S Y O F E L I E S A A B

ELEGANT BOHO-CHIC

A NEW GENERATION OF WOMEN

U M A

L A N V I N

W A N G

S C H I A P A R E L L I

E L I E

S A A B

M I U

W E S T W O O D

S T U D I O S

V I V I E N N E

A C N E

N I N A

R I C C I

L E O N A R D

P A R I S

Y O H J I - Y A M A M O T O

NOT JUST SUNGLASSES A CHARMING

193

ACCESSORIES

THE NEW WAY TO BE IN STYLE

An unique stories to tell

PEPITOS

PEPITOS was born in 2016 from the friendship between Michele and his cute little dog Pepe and the passion of eyewear. This is how their company was born. From the first drawings, to the first samples up to the creation of fantastic collections, each eyewear is dedicated and bears the name of the 4-legged friends. The Pepitos brand has studied the funniest and most functional packaging ever: a real dog snacks holder, certified for food use. The collections are full of color, bizarre shapes, original styles and unique stories to tell. All glasses are produced in Italy with the best selected materials and with the experience of best craftsmen. Today Pepitos is able to design, customize and create collections for brands, shops and companies.

w w w . p e p i t o s e y e w e a r . c o m

C O U R T E S Y

O F

P E P I T O S

From 2020 PEPITOS has also expanded the collection on the streetwear sector, creating the first Pepitos Clothing Capsule.

195

T-Shirts, sweatshirts, pants, beanie and bucket caps in perfect combo with glasses to complete the design by Pepitos outfit.

ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS ENFANTS RICHES DÉPRIMÉS debuts

its

Spring/Summer

2022 collection with its sixth runway show at Paris Fashion Week at Ecole de Médecine. An

emotional

and

dark

collection; the work focuses on

womenswear,

leather,

and eyewear, permeated by accessories. Intelligent naive gestures are constrained

elongated

silhouettes.

craft by fine art, desire clashes with conduct.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

196

w w w . e n f a n t s r i c h e s d e p r i m e s . c o m

Noise is repressed by music,

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : H E N R I A L E X A N D E R L E V Y © C O U R T E S Y O F E N F A N T S R I C H E S D É P R I M É S

Craft by fine ART

GAUCHERE

For the Spring Summer 2022 collection, the house’s founder and creative director Marie-Christine Statz reflected an ongoing conversation with Miren Arzalluz. It star ted when Miren was first introduced to GAUCHERE and immediately felt and understood the designer’s calling to create clothing for the individual that express their identity and mood. This shared experience led to Miren interpreting Marie-Christine’s vision for the GAUCHERE collection in her own words. “It is just so powerful when you feel an intimate connection with your clothes, as if you and them were all one and the same, enabling you to express exactly what you want to tell the world about yourself, at that par ticular moment; protecting you where you most need it; helping you through challenges, hardships, successes and dreams. It’s an armor which is fluid, shielding and liberating.”

197 The 37 looks of the Spring Summer 2022 collection were filmed at the Palais Galliera. The architecture of the Neo-Renais- sance Palace with its broad, monumental windows, paved cour tyard, semicircular peristyle and glass & steel roof offered the perfect backdrop and atmosphere for the collection. Whites, sand stone, vanilla and warm caramel hues dominate the colour palette.This light range is accentuated with a bright pea-green and completed by dark neutrals such as navy, midnight blue and black. The house’s monochrome gender fluid suiting offers powerful contrasts: tailored wools are connected with sheer fabrics. Shiny silk is panelled with dr y cotton. Open

elaborate shoulders that morph into organic and rounded shapes.They are styled with bra tops and super wide pleat-front trousers. Crochet, sequin and slip skir ts are paired with delicate lace tops or with oversized shir ts featuring lace applications, cur ved button plackets, patched panels or pleats.

w w w . g a u c h e r e . c o m

weaved linen jackets have angular and

deep

V-neckline

reoccurring

throughout the collection on tops, dresses as well as collar- and buttonless vests and jackets. Fluid dresses and tops come with long slits and open backs. Soft asymmetries are created with fabric knots and rounded cut-outs. Drapes form different silhouettes

C R E A T I V E

D I R E C T O R : M A R I E - C H R I S T I N E C O U R T E S Y O F G A U C H E R E

S T A T Z

defined by the body. GAUCHERE is a French prêt-à-por ter house founded in 2013 by the designer Marie-Christine Statz. Her vision is to create garments that point out the individual. At the hear t of GAUCHERE is the ar t of tailoring, the appreciation of materials as they are and the translation in pure geometric

structures

and

sculptural

volumes. Marie-Christine’s intuitive designs are expressing the mood of today while aiming for permanence and timelessness. The GAUCHERE community is progressive. It is an active par ticipant in today’s society. “Live and let live” is not just a phrase for them but an attitude towards life. MarieChristine’s intuitive designs are expressing the mood of today while aiming for permanence and timelessness. The GAUCHERE community is progressive. It is an active par ticipant in today’s society. “Live and let live” is not just a phrase for them but an attitude towards life.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAGE

20 0

PAG E

2 0 1

AN INTIMATE CONNECTION

PAGE

202

PAG E

2 0 3

w w w . z i l l a . i t

Roman

born

Giambattista

Valli

launched his eponymous brand in 2005, heralding his first ready- to-wear show in Paris where he had moved from Italy to realise his everlasting dream of creating a true “Maison”, after experiences at Roberto Capucci, Fendi and as Creative Director of Emanuel Ungaro.

The

Maison’s

headquarters

were

established in a historic building located on Rue Boissy d’Anglas which also houses its main store entirely dedicated to ready-to-wear collections, leather

goods

and

accessories

including shoes, bags and jewelry.

In July 2011 Giambattista Valli showed his first Couture collection and was accepted as an Official Member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. The launch of Giamba a new, younger sister ready-to-wear line – followed in 2014.

From 2008 to 2017 Giambattista Valli was Creative Director of Moncler Gamme

Rouge,

building

new

language of refined activewear for the brand and expanding the horizons for the use of women’s puffer jackets.

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI Giambattista

Valli,

leading

and

established name in the worldwide fashion scene, brought a new approach and meaning to luxury and beauty that attracted a universe of a young, modern and international generation of highly glamorous and sophisticated women from around the globe and has been praised by celebrities and fashion lovers, earning him a Star Honoree Award from Fashion Group International in 2011 in New York and Best Designer of the Year Awards from Elle China in 2013 and from Marie

205 Claire Spain in 2015.

Ariana Grande, Kendall Jenner, Gwyneth Paltrow are amongst those who are wearing his creations.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

Ageless, Timeless, Effortless

Amal Clooney, Rihanna, Queen Rania of Jordan,

PAGE

20 6

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : G I A M B A T T I S T A V A L L I © C O U R T E S Y O F G I A M B A T T I S T A V A L L I

Owned by Giambattista Valli with a minority shareholding by Artemis (Pinault’s family investment group) the brand has flagship stores in Paris, Milan, Doha and Seoul and is internationally distributed with more than 245 selling points. His narrative is about a love story, shared with dreamers and lovers with a common philosophy: ageless, timeless, effortless. PAG E

2 07

w w w . g i a m b a t t i s t a v a l l i . c o m

PERMANENT METAMORPHOSIS In reincarnation it is believed there is an interval in between the end of one life and the beginning of the next life. Designer Julius Juul was intrigued by the concept of an intermediate state in which an object or entity is in transition between two stages. Not being

in the original stage or the new

stage, but existing

only in the transitional

stage. Manifesting the transitional phase as a permanent structure. A ‘Permanent Metamorphosis’. This concept gave

way for garments in the

collection to be explored as transitional pieces in which different phases of the transition was expressed. Asymmetrical patterns and shape modifications conveyed the concept of work in transition. Prints in the collection were generated using artificial intelligence to find the intermediate stage in an image in between various images. In relation to this concept designer Julius Juul constructed the collection with the familiar HELIOT EMIL silhouettes, and continues the constant narrative of exploring

a balance

between form and function with each garment design.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

w w w . h e l i o t e m i l . c o m

HELIOT 209 EMIL AN INTERMEDIATE STATE

ASYMMETRICAL PATTERNS & SHAPE In the show you have seen the Amazfit smart watches. Amazfit was launched the new GT3 series in October 2021. AMAZFIT was established in 2015, and offers smart

and smart devices for sports and health like TWS earbuds, smart treadmills and smart scales. Currently, Amazfit products hit the markets of more than 90 countries and

regions, including

the United

States, Germany, Turkey and Japan. In 2020, Amazfit had the largest share of the adult watch market in Spain and Indonesia. For more information, visit www.amazfit.com

P H :

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : J U L I U S J U U L S I M O N A S B E R U K S T I S & C H A R L I E S O F F E E

watches and bands from daily to outdoor sport use,

PAGE

21 0

PAG E

2 11

EXPLORING A BALANCE BETWEEN FORM AND FUNCTION

A VOYAGE IN DESCENT

Dive into the sea and Swim in the silence. Guided by the light f rom above, Yield to the sway to Flow with currents. Body immersed and unbound, Mind acute and uplifted. Down below in the deep Thrives a world full of life, Vivid and beautiful. Seeing things that glow, spread out, coil, and bounce. Mesmerized for the f irst time in life, Swim and swim, for a moment like this.

The

ISSEY

MIYAKE

SPRING

SUMMER

2022

continuing to the uplifting sensation of making

collection A Voyage in Descent premiered online

new discoveries in the deep sea. This voyage

on October 1st 2021.

serves as inspiration to the original designs and

This collection is inspired by a voyage into the

making of the collection expressed through fluid,

deep sea, beginning with a portrayal of the

dynamic garments and lightweight, glistening

silence and tranquility f irst felt in the water, and

materials.

THE DEEP SEA

Issey Miyake

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

DIFFERENT ATMOSPHERES SILENCE The SILENCE series is created using the

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : S A T O S H I K O N D O © C O U R T E S Y I S S E Y M I Y A K E

hikizome (hand-drawn dyeing) technique, done by craftspeople in Kyoto. Patterns are drawn onto damp fabric with brushes and paint sprayers, and continue to change until the fabric is dry as the dye solutions continue to seep in and develop. The luster of the fabric brings out qualities of stillness and adds a glistening touch.

CARVED The CARVED series features a garment with fluid curves and openings on both sides of the body. The seemingly carved form emphasizes the wearer’s waistline. The cotton fabric is woven with Washi paper and biodegradable lame fibers to give it a firm yet glossy texture and depth of color. This series can be worn as a suit, or can be styled as separates.

PAGE

21 4

J U LY 2 0 1 9

LINK RINGS The LINK RINGS is an all hand-pleated key series of the collection. Its construction connects round pieces of fabrics to give rise to a bold and new garment that can be folded along the pleats into a compact size. The way it opens up and develops into ripples one after another inspires an uplifting sensation.

SWIMMING The SWIMMING series features patterns inspired

w w w . i s s e y m i y a k e . c o m

by waves and creatures from the deep sea,

PAG E

2 1 5

printed on a lustrous rayon fabric. A printing technique called naki (bleed), allows the colors to seep in and blur into each other to faithfully represent the subtlety in the details created by the mix of four colors. The series is available in six styles including an open-back dress.

“ I love travel, I love animals, I love Nature in all its forms. I love to lose myself in the vineyards, admiring the f ruits of Nature and f inding amazing the human touch when it’s so synergic with Nature itself. The

interaction

between

man

and the world of grapes is both ancientand exciting ... just like the goldsmith technique I use for the realization of my creations.

ELEONORA GHILARDI

SPARKLING is born in a natural way, designed for women and men who do not follow trends, but only their personal taste and the research for beauty ...”

Eleonora Ghilardi PAGE

21 6

Creating a collection dedicated to “bubbles”

several opportunities to visit many wineries.

is therefore not only the expression of the

In this way she could realize that the passion

inspiration born f rom her excursions into

of people that produce wine is the same that

the world of viticulture but also a tribute to

she feel in making her jewels.

people that fully experience this world.

much more than bubbly...

Over the years Eleonora Ghilardi has have

217

Sparkling Collection

PAGE

2 17

EG jewels are created using the ancient goldsmith technique of lost wax. This technique consists in creating a jewel using wax, a material that allows it to be modeled according to your needs. Imagine a wax that is less oily and more compact than the one used for candles. By means of cutters, scalpels, f iles, drills it is modeled and allows to create very signif icant details. Once the model is f inished, it is taken to a casting center and ... the magic happens! After the metal is melted, she f inishes the jewel with a hacksaw, f iles, sandpaper and drill and if the design requires it, she uses enamels, oxide, gems or pearls.

THE PACKAGING

AN ANCIENT GOLDSMITH TECHNIQUE

Elegant and ethical, EG packaging was created in

Special stamps attest the peculiarities

2012.

Usually relized with recycled paper, PLASTIC FREE,

in Italian and English explain how to

for the f inest modelsof SPARKLING collection

optimally maintainyour jewel, according to

handmade wooden boxes are available.

its characteristics.

The jewel is wrapped in light paper, in the same

A delicate scent of grapes is released

shades of the metal alloyand enclosed in natural

when the box is opened. The certif icate of

cotton bags to ensure adequate protection.

authenticity completes the package.

the

collection.

Instructions

printed

PAGE

21 8

Sparkling Collection consists of: 93 models of rings 10 bracelets 23 pendents/choker 29 earrings/earcuff

w w w . e l e o n o r a g h i l a r d i . c o m

3 cufflinks But...it is not sure that other kind of jewels or models notcould be added...

A natural way to be

P PA AG G E E

0 20 1 9

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : E L E O N O R A G H I L A R D I © C O U R T E S Y O F E L E O N O R A G H I L A R D I

3 brooches

T H I S D E B U T R A N G E W A S R E V E A L E D AT D OW N T OW N D E S I G N I N D U B A I ELIE SAAB continues expanding into a lifestyle

uncompromising excellence in luxury living.

brand that delivers a unique experience of the

Beautiful

brand’s universe. The ceramic creations will

classic and contemporary colour combinations

further enhance a luxury living expression,

are produced using only the f inest raw materials

exclusively presented by RAK Ceramics: where

and the latest technology.

luxury design meets ceramic expertise.

The ELIE SAAB Bathroom and Surface Collections

Both companies founded in the 80s with a

inspire interior designers and architects to

history f irmly rooted in the region, ELIE SAAB

create unique, luxurious, and distinctive living

and RAK Ceramics, are leading companies in

environments, and this f irst foray into the world

their respective f ields and share a vision of

of ceramics will be yet another beautiful brand

exquisite design, impeccable craftsmanship and

addition to the world of ELIE SAAB.

f inishes,

elegant

marble

textures,

w w w . e l i e s a a b . r a k c e r a m i c s . c o m

C O U R T E S Y

O F

E L I E

S A A B

R A K

C E R A M I C S

ELIE SAAB collaborates with RAK Ceramics to launch an exquisite bathroom and surface collection

commanding elegance to any contemporary

encompassing: Glamour, Liquid Metal, Royal,

living space. Soft Lux adds a genuinely

Soft Lux and Travertinum. With its stunning

luxurious decadence to the range with its

and sophisticated onyx, palissandro and dark

golden and gleaming qualities and elegant

marble f inishes, the Glamour collection makes

marble textures. Finally, the organic textures

a fashion statement touching every corner,

and timeless golden accents of Travertinum

where Liquid Metal is more spontaneous in

add a natural charm and enduring elegance

striking

to any prestigious living space.

adding a

gold

with

concrete

A lu xury living expres s io n

Five elegant collections are brought to life,

f inishes,

unique and contemporary

The

ELIE

SAAB

Bathroom

and

Surface

touch to interiors. With uncompromising

Collections are available exclusively through

attention to detail, the Royal collection adds a

RAK Ceramics.

PAGE

0 9

221

222 ©

C O U R T E S Y

O F

N O M A D E

N O M A D E A S ACO N T E M P O R A RY N O M A D, A M A N WH O I S U S E D TO T R AVE L I N G A N D WA N TS TO T R AVE L L I G H T WI T H A VE R S AT I L E A N D PE R FO R M I N G WA R D R O B E . M E A N T FO R A N E L EG A N T A N D B OH E M I A N T R AVE L L E R !

noMade

draws

manufactures

and

handmade

goods by blending exceptional savoir-faire

and

artisanal

heritage of ancestral culture with technologically advanced processes, Made in Italy, which guarantee the high technical quality of the desired f inish and a modern and performing product. Their

mission

bring

the world of craftsmanship and manual skills into the 21st century by maximizing comfort and style. w w w . n o m a d e w a y . c o m

HANDMADE PERFECTION Their goal is to a perfect tailormade with

product your

dream’s

accordance details;

radical customization of the shoe f rom the bottom to the upper.

P AP GA EG E2 21 4

There was a time when product were built to perform and last into a future. A time when quality and craftsmanship were agvenand and the customer was king…that time is now. This is the story of noMade, a journey to discover the importance of time, patience and quality to enable us to explore a future delivering authentic craftsmanship while respecting the nature and our planet

noMade in line with the principles that inspired its foundation, that is the research, recovery and enhancement of rare and ancient craft heritage, through travel and discovery, offers products that are the result of a unique savoir-faire, of traditions jealously guarded and with a constant commitment to keeping up with the times through advanced finishing technologies. Thanks to its creations,

their

company

want to be an ambassador of a joyful and refined art of living, inspired and guided by respect for nature and a sustainable vision of doing business. An unique piece created around you, not only a shoe but a desire. A perfect bespoke service in

accordance

with

your

dreams details. Pieces made by hand to fill out even more demanding and creative customers.

PAG E

2 25

The Spirit of noMade

To emphasize craftsmanship and

their

strong

focus

customization,

they

established the M.T.O. (Made To Order) program. Through this program them most demanding and creative customers

will

able

choose among the models and details they prefer to create a shoe that adapts not only to your foot but also to your style. Tassels, initials, embroidered motifs; until you can choose f rom the many types of bottom proposed in our collection. The entire procedure takes The entire procedure takes place in a very short time, about 6/8 weeks. This is because every place in a very short time, time a “handmade” order enters the laboratory it attracts everyone’s attention, to prevent the pleasure of having a handmade object f rom being transformed into the impatience of having to wait too long.

MA DE TO ORDER

PAGE

226

NATURAL COLORS They strive to make their products in a responsible, ecological and environmentally f riendly way; to this end, all the colors used for the coloring of their raff ia are made with pigments of vegetable origin extracted f rom f ruit, vegetables, spices, herbs and other natural substances, completely eliminating any type of metal pollution produced by industrial chemical processing.

THE FUTURE THROUGH THE PAST The crochet expertly moves in small

noMade shoes. Each shoe is then

knots that slowly build each upper

gently beaten with a hammer for

around its shape. It takes their Raffia

about an hour, in order to make the fit

Masters, their skilled artisans and

softer and more pleasant. Their work

8 hours of work to make a pair of

is them strength.

PAG E

2 27

noMade for women noMade for women is a project whose mission

and organization that guarantees their well-

is to integrate the 60 women, their artisans,

being and the possibility of giving continuity and

who come f rom the deep rural reality of the

dignity to their incredible talent and the immense

municipality

artisan heritage that they can thus pass on. With

Morocco, into the productive, economic and

each purchase, you help these disadvantaged

social fabric of the territory in which they live.

women to grow and thrive. They support these

noMade main goal is to help them artisans to be

women by offering them a job, helping them

f inancially independent by providing them with

to pass on their precious skills to keep alive the

a stable income, fair trade, in an ideal working

ancient techniques of knotted raff ia crochet.

environment

providing

They are committed to continuing this journey

education for their children. Through this social

by supporting local women and offering them

and solidarity entrepreneurship, they want to

the opportunity to become independent and

bring a solution to various economic and social

proud of their work and to be able to share it with

dissatisfactions through an effective structure

the world.

Essaouira,

and

the

consequently

south

PAGE

228

HAND MADE WITH LOVE Behind

every

handmade

object

there

the

commitment and art of a master craftsman, but there is also the history and culture of a place and a people. A handmade object will forever remain something unique and unrepeatable. Processing times change with respect to the f renzy of industry and serial production; here the realization of an object requires the right time, a time that expands. The ref inement of the shapes, the quality of the raw materials are the characteristics that embellish the products of our world. Constant research allows the application of more modern processes through the use of cutting-edge w w w . n o m a d e w a y . c o m

technologies. The high technical quality of f inishing of each piece is one of the objectives of their transformation work, the element that gives them products the status of hybrid, unique and special works. The noMades are products that preserve the memory of their history but carry with them the value of ref ined and contemporary f inishes Made in Italy. PAG E

2 2 9

Welcome to the #jitroisklub

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : J E A N C L A U D E J I T R O I S P H : E S H O P S T U D I O P R O D U C T I O N S

230 JITROIS

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

by a new body geometry. The exposed skin now

years, that felt like we were all being suspended.

forms part of the pattern and design. Corseted

Now is the season of renaissance, festivals, raves,

tops and dresses enhance the lines of the neck and

parties and desire. The true essence of the Jitrois

chest alongside ref ining the waist by the draping

Klub shines through most brightly in our shared

of ultra-f ine stretch leather that flows downwards,

post-pandemic world, where the lovers of leather,

maintained by structured strong horizontal lines

passion and luxury are now able to reconnect again

creating as a result the perfect ensemble for a

in person after living in a virtual realm.

midsummer night’s dream come true. The luxurious

Jean-Claude Jitrois created the SS22 collection as

black second skin stretch leather is nocturnal,

a wardrobe for this long awaited yet monumental

shiny and luminous. It plays with reflections and

celebration, having in sight the reunion of all

harmonises with gold and white sat against Jitrois’

to assemble in a leather wonderland f ramed by

trademark patinated stretch denim leather. The

escapism and lust. The collection was designed for

collection off-course has its solar counterpart with

playful seduction, summer nights and the f reedom

colourful injections of bright orange, turquoise,

to f inally dance. The clothes are constructed with

ultra-violet and red but also earthy hues of khaki,

movement in mind, to reveal parts of the body, to

burnt orange and beige.

emphasise and liberate. The skin is enveloped by

This collection was designed with the idea of

ergonomic stretch leather strips. Asymmetrical

repopulating the planet with love, until the early

bandeau’ and micro-miniskirts that are united

hours of the morning.

w w w . j i t r o i s . c o m

The world is reopening its doors again after two

w w w . i j o d e s i g n . c o m

THE COLLECTIONS ARE MADE ON ANCIENT HAND LOOMS IJO design is the combination of

The fabric, the true protagonist of the brand, is

fashion, craftsmanship and design

created to give shape to every single collection; the

according to sustainable economic

search for noble, certif ied f ibers is combined with

and

ancient techniques and ref ined workmanship,

production with an eco-sensitivity for

then deconstructed and transformed into clothes

the respect of the environment and

and accessories with simple geometric shapes,

the well-being of the person.

architectural inspiration.

The IJO design collections are in fact

made on ancient hand looms made

intertwining of warp and weft, each unique piece

of ancient olive wood in their small

woven is created on a sketch in every minimum

workshops in Puglia as the entire

detail through the suggestion of a material

production chain, up to the f inished

metamorphosis that becomes the hallmark of the

garment.

brand.

environmental

values,

the

endless

possibilities

offered

the

IJO DESIGN

The fabric is the true protagonist of the brand

the idea is that of the cloth without cuts, but completed with f inishes and sartorial seams, exposed selvages, woven f ringes, deliberately unf inished works in a game that recalls the story of a story of endless threads. IJO design has a recognizable identity, a strong international attitude and is part of a context of research of new languages in a growing sector such as that of sustainable luxury craftsmanship.

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : © C O U R T E S Y O F

In the packaging phase

A N N A L I S A S U R A C E I J O D E S I G N

FINISHES AND SARTORIAL SEAMS

KIMHEKIM Women in Canvas Here is the second chapter of thier new series called OBSESSION: Designer Kiminte’s obsession towards aesthetics, ‘Women in Canvas.’ In

many

the

Kimhekim

lookbooks,

the backside of canvases is used as the background, reflecting how the Kimhekim women live inside the art. This season tells the story of Kimhekim’s mysterious muse in the canvas. The poetic feeling when you visit an artist’s atelier is interpreted through details such as ornamented buttons, canvas printed silk, and perforation which reminds the frame of artwork. The study of women’s beautiful curves and sophisticated simplicity reveals ready-to-wear that maintains

Sophisticated Simplicity couture elegance.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

w w w . k i m h e k i m . c o m

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : K I M I N T E K I M H E K I M P H : M A R I A C H E K H O V S K A Y A

235

C O U R T E S Y

O F

A L I D A

L I B E R A L E

Alida Liberale ART ON SILK

TO BE DIFFER

237 Alida Liberale is an artist whose extraordinarily inexhaustible expressive vein finds realization in different pictorial techniques from oil painting to tapestries, to silk painting. It is precisely painting on silk that gives voice to her main passion by using the brand name “ART ON SILK”

RENT

PAGE

238

The painted silk scarves are unique, exclusive, and unrepeatable works. The colors slide on the silk following the careful hand of the artist who knows how to direct the sign, as describing the

Art to wear

nature that accompanies the themes of her paintings. She is inspired by nature and matter; the environment is a subject of great attention for Alida. It is precisely “reserve dyes” through the batik and shibori technique, which exploits the ecosustainable respect of Art on Silk.

w w w . a r t e s u l l a s e t a . i t

PAG E

2 39

240 KOCHÉ REINTERPRETING CRAFTSMANSHIP AND COUTURE CODES IN A MODERN AND REAL WORLD

new classic

Christelle Kocher chose a very special place for her KOCHÉ Summer 2022 fashion show: the prestigious ShangriLa palace. This magnif icent space acts as the perfect backdrop to a collection

that is more delicate and ref ined than ever, highlighting Christelle Kocher’s “New Classic” aesthetics.

For this collection, Christelle Kocher’s focus is on the handwork of the artisans

f rom her Parisian and Italian ateliers.

Christelle Kocher: “In fashion, the work

of the hand is what makes a garment exceptional: the irreplaceable human

touch that gives the magic. I would like

everyone to have the chance to see the atelier: the subtle choreography of the

hands while sewing, draping, retouching, embellishing… It is exciting and so

moving.” Season after season, KOCHÉ continues its mission of reinterpreting

craftsmanship and Couture codes in a modern and real world. However, this collection represents a shift for the

brand with the def ining of KOCHÉ “New

Classic” aesthetics. The shapes are more elaborate and the work on the details and

embellishments

even

precise. Couture silk organza, paillettes

and the KOCHÉ monogram in dévoré give elevated and feminine touches to the collection.

A R T I S T I C

D I R E C T O R : C H R I S T E L L E P H : G U I L L A U M E R O U J A S

K O C H E R

POP & LOVE CULTURE

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

PAGE

24 2

While the silhouettes are inspired by the glamour of the 30’s, an architectural shoulder and other delicate details highlight the Designer’s know-how. A very distinctive and handmade technique of bomb spray paint is applied to the garments, revealing lace graphics or the KOCHÉ monogram. The pastel, solar and luminous colour palette is heightened by crystal and feather embroideries, all handsewn in the KOCHÉ Parisian atelier. Revealed as part of the collection, a see now / buy now capsule TINDER x KOCHÉ reinforces the brand’s commitment to playing with the rules of fashion and celebrating diversity and inclusiveness. Christelle Kocher has always believed in mixing styles and people. That is how this collaboration was born, in the meeting of the unexpected and the merging of crafted Couture

w w w . k o c h e . f r

with pop and love culture.

PAG E

243

COMIC STRIP

245

LANVIN

A reconsideration of the meaning of Lanvin - its signs and signifiers, its fundamental definition. A Lanvin

that resonates with the 2020s to the same degree that Lanvin defined the 1920s, a dialogue between past and future. The Spring Summer 2022 women’s and men’s Lanvin collection by Bruno Sialelli is a tribute to the house’s identity, its ideology, remixed for where the world is today. Lightness and freedom have always been central to Lanvin - qualities that still resonate today. Jeanne Lanvin empowered women with her clothes, dressing them in a manner that combined dynamism with romance, reflecting different sides of a woman’s psyche. Today, there is also playful sexiness, a youthful esprit. Lanvin’s lightness infuses the collection: dresses appear to float on tulle construction that melts into the body, some apparently simple drapes of fabric, like spontaneous gestures in flou, edges raw, softly moving. Knitwear is unlined, easy and close to the body; tailoring is featherweight and the volume of fourrure is translated to metallic tinsel. Toujours party. Lightness can also translate to luminosity: to liquid gazar and metallic mesh, reflective and sparkling. Sequin embellishment glistens, drawn from a 1934 dress named ‘Concerto’ and applied as panels to chiffon dresses.

LIGHTNES & FREEDOM

These references to history are also worn lightly,

for a different attitude. The idea of crafting Lanvin

with Lanvin’s Margheurite becoming a naïve Pop

heroes and heroines is always forefront - today, we

daisy print, tailoring finished with sports detailing,

need them more than ever. A collaboration with DC

and the Robe de Style abbreviated to a playful ba-

Comics translates images of archetypal comic book

by-doll, a fresh proportion. Throughout, a relevance

characters Batman and Catwoman into prints and

is forged between then and now, the Lanvin wom-

graphics. The saturated colors of those comic strips

en and a new Lanvin generation - mens’ suiting

infuse the collection: rich petrol blue, violet and

fuses with streetwear in soft relaxed layers, and

scarlet, like venomous flowers alongside Lanvin’s

skirts may be replaced with easy skateboard shorts

delicate daisies. PAGE

24 6

SS OM

PAG E

247

w w w . l a n v i n . c o m

WITH

DYNAMISM ROMANCE

And menswear is heroic: wide shouldered,

Accessories toy with Lanvin’s identity. The chain-

emphatic, glamorous. Padding both comforts

strapped and quilted ‘Happy’ bag is revived,

the body and exaggerated the silhouette,

joined with a new curved design, the ‘Smile’.

while elegance and ease fuse, combining

In Lanvin tradition, jewellery is embalmed with

couture fabrics - satin, f ine wool, with relaxed

superlative and aff irmative slogans in crystals -

shapes.

they empower women, elevate mood. PAGE

24 8

A collaboration with Judith Leiber invents a selection of

glistening minaudière

like playthings. They nod to

childhood

innocence

and joy, as encapsulated by the mother and child that

forms

Lanvin’s

immediately recognisable logo. A dialogue with Lanvin’s contemporary inevitably

spirit

includes

the

legacy of the late Alber Elbaz,

here,

voluminous

flowing

dresses

are

a nod to his era-def ining body of work, his own recalibrating of Lanvin for modern times and for the lives of modern women.

A NEW LANVIN

PAG E

249

GENERATION

A DIALOGUE BETWEEN PAST & FUTUREIST PAGE

250

PAG E

251

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : B R U N O S I A L E L L I © C O U R T E S Y O F L A N V I N

w w w . l e c a v a l i e r . s t u d i o

The expression of mystic energy through dance

LECAVALIER

For LECAVALIER´s debut on Paris Fashion Week’s official

calendar,

Creative

Director

Marie-Eve

Lecavalier focuses on the theatricality of everyday life and on the expression of mystic energy through

252

dance, rites and ceremonials. The collection explores the metaphorical connections between real world and magic, body and mind, drawing inspiration from Alejandro Jodorowsky’s surrealistic film The Holy Mountain and the opéra fantastique The Tales of Hoffmann by Jacques Offenbach. Mona Chollet’s book Witches:

The Undefeated Power of Women about the persecution of women and their independence plays an homage to inner strength and freedom.

THE SPELL A meditative state is reached through rhythmic, repetitive movements involved in hand weaving and crochet. A sense of letting go of control is depicted though graphic, wavy details. Transparent and

vulnerability.

Sustainability

and

upcycling continue to play a major role at LECAVALIER: handmade vegetal prints are created in collaboration with artist Marie Les Bains through an ancient technique using fresh flowers, bringing another dimension to the iconic swirl print, with an organic yet romantic effect. Oversized denim garments are made of 100% recycled jeans, while leftover leather is now used for a new knitting technique inspired

vintage

crochet.

Suiting

acquires significance becoming one of the protagonists of the collection, developed in refined crepe fabric. Handmade knitted scuba items, made of leftovers from past seasons, and transparent light knit rib create a beautiful wrapping effect by its texture and transparency. The body is unveiled and concealed as part of a playful yet sensual hide and seek. Classic shirting confers an elegant and timeless allure. Important partners for this

season are

Canadian retailer La Maison Simons and Paris Fashion Week.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A R T I S T I C

the

D I R E C T O R : M A R I E - È V E L E C A V A L I E R P H : R I C C A R D O R A S P A

sheer elements exist to remind us of

OPTICAL CRUSH Colors and contrasts immersed in a kinetic art that

The

embraces and conquers: this is not an optical illusion

reinterpreted with the classic

but a creativity to be explored starting with the SS 2022

juxtaposed

collection signed by Alessandra Balbi.

multicolored bands of Le Parc

An elegant and sophisticated ‘joie de vivre’ that brings

that lives up a captivating

the characteristic optical expression of the Argentine

aesthetic: they are flat sandals

artist Julio Le Parc and turns it into a feminine and hyper

with prominent heels; they are

chromatic proposal.

sling backs whose classic tone

Focused on colors, at its base, and on contrasts in the

is played down by contrasting

name of a versatile dynamism that bends and adapts to a

nuances.

contemporary woman, self-aware but always terribly chic.

iconic

silhouettes

and

are

curved

w w w . a l e s s a n d r a b a l b i . c o m

C O U R T E S Y

O F

A L E S S A N D R A

B A L B I

COLORS & CONTRASTS IN THE NAME OF A VERSATILE DYNAMISM

The

sensuality

the

foot

and ankle is always in the foreground thanks to models that tie vertically by wrapping the

skin:

the

architecture

A KINETIC ART: FOR A CONTEMPORARY WOMAN

of the shoe is precise, every detail is studied to perfection to conquer the eye and walk. The bright and lively reflections of South America are found in the chromatic attitude that favors strong colors capable of moving on the creations and transforming individual details into a unique one.

PAG E

1 5

the

ALESSANDRA BALBI rouches,

enveloping

protagonists on sandals and sling

backs, a symbol of a heritage reinterpreted in a contemporary way and capable of becoming the signature of a precious and timeless accessory.

A SUNKISSED LAND

256

LEONARD PARIS

IL SOLE

Taking a page out of Slim Aarons’s playbook of ”photographing attractive people attractive

things

doing

in attractive places” this

season designer Georg

Lux has

decided to

travel with Leonard to the sunkissed land of warm summer holidays spent lounging by the pool with a cocktail in hand. The f ilm he has created for his sophomore collection speaks of a world where women dress up even if it’s just to walk f rom their Italian villa down a few stone steps to its azure blue piscine. After all, good manners are never passé.

single sleeve of matching organza,

f rom the house’s extensive archives

slimming liquid jersey

and newly introduced this season,

structured

come in tangy tropical colors

floating feather cuffs, slender mini

mandarin, pineapple, punch pink

skirts and long sleeve gowns that

and mint green. They are used to

gather in a midriff revealing circle.

create skin baring short

dresses

All of them channeling a late 60s,

that f inish

with

early 70s relaxed jet set allure.

a flourish

coats

trousers,

that end in

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A RELAXED JET SET ALLURE

L U X D I R E C T O R : G E O R G P E D R O P O D E S T A C R E A T I V E P H :

Outsized floral prints, both pulled

PAGE

258

w w w - l e o n a r d p a r i s . c o m

Summer romance is also the order of the day at Leonard. Chic limpid shirts in a “faded by the sun” effect clematis floral print, worn with a matching crisp white circle skirt, make for

impeccable

ensemble.

While

Croisette

floating

promenade

tiered

chiffon

dresses and palazzo pants that caress the skin and sway in the summer breeze are the perfect destination wedding attire. Think Sophia Loren on vacation on the Amalf i coast. Then pair those pants with a matching halter bralette top for the post nuptials seaside cocktails, saunter up to a Leonard attired man and let the festivities begin.

But no glamorous getaway is truly perfect without elegant travel ensembles to get you f rom the city to the coast. Lux has utilized the updated geometric Leonard logo as a hypnotic print for graphic tailored suiting and matching accessories that harken back to that golden age when getting dressed up to go on a voyage was the order of the day. The designer has also reimagined the circular Leonard symbol into a unique guipure lace motif on dresses and pants that lets the wearer’s skin come out and play. Most spectacularly as perforated goal medallions linked together to make a show stopping dress that glints in the estate sun, especially when dripping wet f rom a cooling dip in the pool. Signora Loren would undoubtedly approve. PAG E

259

ZILLA ZILLA stands for unusual and contemporary

reﬂective iridescent foils and aluminium, as well as

design combined with unexpected materials. The

high quality leathers and canvas, are transformed

material is the main inspiration for the collection,

into stimulating and clever shapes lined with

therefore each season the designer Sylvia Pichler

metallic foils: mouldable and foldable bags for

researches innovative and uncommon surfaces

everyday use or special occasions. The shapes of

on which to experiment with. She starts out by

the bags have a minimal and clean approach and

repurposing materials, thus giving them a new

will refresh and empower every outfit.

life in an altered shape. This is the approach

The Spring Summer ’22 collection brings to a

representing the fundamental part of her creative

further level the basic needs for comfort and

process and the key to her brand`s ongoing

simplicity mixed with extraordinary materials

success. In an artisan laboratory close to Venice,

that make Zilla bags so special.

This new collection presents, as well, Zilla bags in the

261

The collection is a dive into a summer

feeling of electric blue and pastel colors like pistacchio, grey and sand. The colors are used in the SATIN

which is one of the MUST materials

for the Spring Summer bags. Satin is extremely light and has a silky touch but at the same time the metal inside gives to the object a sharp and structured shape.

Bags with Unusual and Contemporary Design

BAGS FOR EVERYDAY

iconic glitter metallic leather, f rom different shades

of rose, blue and green. The brilliance of this pre-

cious laminated calf leather is since many years a bestseller. A new touch has been added which is the straw called paglia, used for shoppers in various sizes

and also for the Rucksack line, combined with natural leather straps in cognac or off white. To the traditional canvas Rucksack’s, Zilla adds the new ﬂashy

cobalt blue also combined with off white leather details for an absolute summer feeling.

Mouldable and foldable bags for everyday use or special occasions

Summer vibes goes on repurposing small and medium

market and made out of a brilliant resined

size bags of four different colors in the glossy iridescent

metal sheet.

cotton. Those colors are diffcult to deﬁne as the light

In this collection is ongoing the chain

makes them glimmer from tones of yellow to green

necklace and bracelet in gold and silver, this

and orange to pink.

chain is beautiful if added as a shoulder-

Since decades every collection brings also the lunch

strap or handle to various bags to give them

bag, a funny and ironic bag known from the traditional

a festive touch. PAGE

262

THE COLLECTION IS A DIVE INTO A SUMMER FEELING PAG E

2 6 3

w w w . z i l l a . i t

PAGE

264

A R T I S T I C ©

D I R E C T O R : C O U R T E S Y

S Y L V I A P I C H L E R O F Z I L L A

PAG E

2 6 5

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

w w w . l i t k o v s k a y a . c o m

LITKOVSKAYA

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : © C O U R T E S Y O F

L I L I A L I T K O V S K A Y A L I T K O V S K A Y A

267

187 Litkovskaya is a Ukrainian womenswear brand founded by designer Lilia Litkovskaya. Lili comes from a family of 4 generations of tailors and sees it her mission to preserve this profession and the crafts surrounding it. She unveils the way traditions could be integrated in a modern context and is committed to working in sustainable way. Deconstructing the very concept of modernity through a bold touch, she offers a radically realistic wardrobe for woman who is free to be both fragile and fierce. PAGE

26 8

TRADITIONS COULD BE INTEGRATED

PAG E

2 6 9

w w w . m a i s o n m a r g i e l a . c o m

270 Extraordinarily visionary to leave the mark of

shapes in their constructions, draws inspiration

a style projected to a futuristic vision, John

f rom a new environmentalist trend.

Galliano, creative director of Maison Margiela,

John Galliano has translated this into true

presented a collection of ready to wear rich in a

couture by observing the new trendy sport

couture beyond any predictable imagination.

practiced by young people in the Parisian

Maison Margiela’s new collection made of

canals, who f ish with an electromagnet and

unstructured garments, but with perfect

retrieve anything the magnet can pick up.

M M

MAISON MARGIELA

A EG E2 71 2 4 P AP G

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : J O H N G A L L I A N O © C O U R T E S Y O F M A I S O N M A R G I E L A

A sustainable future

A discipline with a strong and excellent environmental message where no animals are preyed upon and at the same time the seabed is cleaned of everything that is intercepted by the magnet. The importance of how imperative it is to pay attention to our behavior for a more sustainable future has not left John Galliano indifferent, far f rom it. The collection presented during Paris Fashion Week with a video directed by Olivier Dahan has conveyed in a disruptive way a message within which there is all the great constructive and creative vision of this fascinating couturier.

WATCH

THE VIDEO HERE

PAG E

27 3

w w w . m a i s o n r a b i h k a y r o u z . c o m

A FOREIGN LAND

275 MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ

THE GRAND DAME OF THE BAY

She leaves when she feels like it. She takes her suitcase and carries it with her wherever she goes. Travel clothes. Bay dresses. She is ready Walk the streets of a foreign land Dare the adventure of a safari. Go dancing under the stars In her suitcase, all the essentials. Cape and trench coat.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAGE

276

Work

jacket,

safari

jacket,

blouson, dinner jacket Bermuda shorts and baggy pants Blouses, polo shirts and shirts. Hard and soft materials.

revisited denim Shades of beige, blue. Light pink or yellow Fawn print, galaxy of rhinestones Dresses sewn with a gesture. The wrapped body disguises a cloud Plays the grand dame of the bay

PAG E

27 7

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : R A B I H K A Y R O U P H : M A T H I E U M A U R Y

Poplin, taffeta, oriental lamé,

MIDORJ STRENGTH LONGEVITY NOBILITY MEMORY Every Midorj Jewel has its own character,

pretty

contemporary

much

bug

stuck

into

amber, is immersed in resin which preserves and protects it f rom ageing. Every piece is handmade with wax and then melt. Bronze is a very shiny metal, strong and vivid, which responds to climate

278

and to the natural PH of the skin. Intuition and creativity of the architect and designer Camilla Andreani,

who

combines

her

knowledge in the use of materials, the experience in using particular techniques

craftmanship

and a consistent research and development.

A R T I S T I C

D I R E C T O R : C O U R T E S Y

C A M I L L A A N D R E A N I O F M I D O R J

H A N D M A D E

w w w . m i d o r j . c o m

A virtuous project of circular economy

Midorj (Japanese for green)is totally made in Italy.

Special electric and electronic waste

Green recycle circular economy these are the key-

(RAEE in Italy) get submerged and locked

words of this project. Everything “comes to unend”

in resin which stops the ageing process,

every Midorj recreates a vicious circle, founding ele-

creating a virtuous project of circular

ment of the whole creative process.

economy. PAGE

280

CUSTOM-MADE Born in a century where new technologies are predominant, but also keeping an eye on sustainable development, the environment and creative recycle, Midorj aims everything at the importance of handmade craftmanship, giving the client a huge chance of having a custom-made product.

Every small bug floating in resin is created using small electrical components no longer used, and therefore unique. In every jewel it is possible to custom adapt every component colour or resin. Midorj is 100% made in Italy and hand made.

PARTICULAR TECHNIQUES OF CRAFTMANSHIP PAG E

2 8 1

MAME KUROGOUCHI

"Walking between my temporary studio and the museum, I thought about what makes the identity of the brand. As my mind wandered, my eyes roamed. One day, realisation struck: Raindrops on the grass. Petals fallen in a river. Sunshine playing through icicles. Flowers dotting a field. Seeing this scenery around me, I was struck by the speed of life, remembering the landscape near my grandparents home. As snapshots of past and present superimposed in my mind, I realised that my work was all around me. Like a seed, Mame Kurogouchi - mame - means bean in Japanese had grown from this rich soil to become an entire world, nourrished by this beauty everlasting and every morning renewed”.

282

When the time came to start her Spring Summer 2022 collection, the designer Maiko Kurogouchi was going through the Mame Kurogouchi archive, to prepare for the “10 Mame Kurogouchi” exhibition at the Nagano Prefectural Art Museum retracing the first decade of her label. When she returned to the studio, she started to paint not what she had seen but spring blossoms, their tender shapes perceptible under a wash of white paint.

This became the basis for the collection, as she worked with ateliers to create textiles that would transcribe this.

This patient love and innovation based upon the wisdom of craft is also an idea that has blossomed over the first decade of Mame Kurogouchi.

First, a complex jacquard in which the floral motif is overlaid with silky threads that gently blur the blooms.

w w w . m a m e k u r o g o u c h i . c o m

LAND

THE WISDOM OF CRAFT Then an iridescent ombré dyed silk jacquard with slit yarn threads, like a hazy impression of flowers shimmering in the high noon. Using the idea of Itajime Shibori, previously used in Fall 2021, master craftspeople have pioneered a novel technique, by folding fabric with wooden sticks and patiently pouring dye onto the fabric, block by block. As colours collide and mingle, a natural and sensitive gradation is born. Linen, a material she remembered in the haze of memory, becomes a whisper that renders outlines with softness and beauty. Elsewhere, it’s minute beads, patiently threaded into crochet trims and knitwear that express the idea of glittering treasures and ephemeral raindrops.

The palette is an exploration of what colour the spring is, not in literal terms, but in the impression that remains in the mind through time: the tender pink of cherry blossoms streets

turning

the

near-white,

the

contrast of a petal floating away

obsidian

canal

waters, the lilac gradient of sunset so delicate it is near-invisible felt.

Shapes

yet

boldly

praised

the

female form, which Maiko Kurogouchi has been doing since

Courbe,

curve

French, the very first brand she launched, before Mame. One

item

bridges

the

brand’s first decade and the coming one: a jacket with an intricate juxtaposition of circles that create cutout effects.

Nodding

one

of her earliest designs, it makes its appearance here in a conversation between the Maiko of then and who she has grown into.

PAGE

284

Distilled

across

the

collection,

becomes striking circular details that are as technically demanding as they are playful for the wearer. A neckline, sloping gently backwards, reveals the nape of

tradition of her homeland, where the rectangles of a kimono come to dialogue with the curves of the human form. Continuing this idea of curves, the Spring Summer 2022 accessories of Mame Kurogouchi bring the delight of the unexpected to these serene silhouettes. An architectural sandal curves around the foot, secured but appearing to float. Crystal jewellery shines, like so many indistinct flowers reflecting sunlight on their petals through a whisper of fog. Crochet bags appear with beads subtly woven into them, echoing the dew of Nagano’s countryside but also the exquisite knitwear found in the collection.

Spring Blossoms PAG E

2 8 5

A R T I S T I C

that roots her work even further, into the

D I R E C T O R : M A I K O K U R O G O U C H I P H : Y U I C H I R O N O D A

the neck – a traditionally sensual gesture

OFFICINA & DESIGN Made to Measure

www.officinaedesign.it

PAGE

day precious embroideries and artistic paintings on precious fabrics, under the creative direction of Roberta Graziani, founder of the brand, and Gaia Lazzari, Roberta’s

daughter

who

inherited

Roberta’s talent and creative flair.

Their passion for fashion and design allows them to create every day the precious handmade works that Officina & Design produces on behalf of their clients.

Every single “Made to Measure” work is the wonderful result of research and hours of work that result in precious unique pieces perfectly executed in absolute elegance and this is the reason why their workshop-art is also chosen by the most important fashion houses of the international scene.

Ravenna, Officina & Design creates every

Precious handmade works

In the atelier of Faenza, in the province of

287

The creative flair of Officina & Design has

no limits so much as to create embroidery and painting on fabric for different sectors, in addition to fashion, creates

customized solutions to decorate the

house or yacht for customers who love to

surround themselves with unique pieces and pure design for a true “LIFE STYLE”.

www.borsalino.com

PAGE

288

PAG E

2 8 9

V I V I E N N E

P A T O U

W E S T W O O D

K O C H É

A L E X A N D R E

B L A N C

T O M

I S S E Y

V A N

D E R

M I Y A K E

B O R G H T

H Y È R E S

W A N G

A L E X I S

M A B I L L E

M A Z A R I N E

S H I A T Z Y

C H E N

S C H I A P A R E L L I

Spring Summer Looks

U M A

291 Get Inspired

w w w . m a r i n e s e r r e . c o m

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : M A R I N E S E R R E © C O U R T E S Y O F M A R I N E S E R R E

Born and raised in Corrèze, Marine Serre has

following, with highlighted collection

gained ground quickly as a couturier for and

titles such as Manic Soul Machine,

f rom a new generation, operating f rom Paris.

Radiation, Marée Noire, Mind Melange

After a string of aff irming internships and jobs at

Motor

Alexander McQueen, Maison Martin Margiela, Dior,

presentation for Spring/Summer 2021:

and Balenciaga, Marine’s graduation collection, A

Amor Fati, the short f ilm. Convinced

Radical Call for Love was simultaneously selected

to remain fully independent, Marine

for the Hyères Festival, the ANDAM Prize and the

Serre received the prestigious ANDAM

LVMH Prize in 2017. Before winning the latter in

Award in July 2020, providing the

June ’17, she sold globally across Dover Street

brand a further acclaim and critical

Market, SSENSE, H.Lorenzo, and other progressive

endorsement f rom its jury of industry

retailers. She had moved to Paris and made it her

heavyweights.

new home. Fast forward three years her critical

the scope progressed and widened.

acclaimed designs have meanwhile garnered a cult

Crucially, the label introduced a new

and

her

last

Over

tumultuous

the

seasons

MARINE SERRE

approach in the design and production seasonal ready- to-wear: using end-of-life product as a base for new and unique high-end tailored garments. Around 50% of her seasonal styles are currently labelled as “Regenerated”, that is designed and produced from upcycled, end-oflife product as base material. The uncompliant designer sees her collections structured over four different lines: MARINE SERRE: WHITE LINE, GOLD LINE, RED LINE and BORDERLINE.

WATCH THEVIDEO HERE

CHOPARD L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono Lightweight, versatile, precise: a very modern grand complication

294

The combination of perpetual calendar and hand-wound chronograph has long been regarded by connoisseurs as one of the highest expressions of the watchmaker’s craft, which Chopard mastered five years ago when it first presented the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono. At its heart is Calibre L.U.C 03.10-L, a true horological marvel notable for the seamless integration of the most prestigious forms of chronograph and

perpetual

Carrying

both

calendar

construction.

Chronometer

certification

and the esteemed Poinçon de Genève, this masterpiece is now transformed for modern lifestyles with a case made from lightweight, durable titanium. Combined with an artfully paired-back aesthetic, the new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono

offers

truly

up-to-the-minute

approach to classical Fine Watchmaking. The use of titanium, exceptionally unusual in the world of Fine Watchmaking, brings a new and modern versatility to the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono. One of very few titanium perpetual

calendar

chronographs

ever

created, it presents an innovative alternative for collectors seeking options besides gold or platinum, while retaining the sense of precious rarity found in watchmaking at its most prestigious. Crucially, titanium’s lightweight nature ensures the 45-millimeter timepiece is a comfortable, ergonomic watch for everyday wear, while shorter lugs make it a perfect fit for any wrist. PAGE

296

The surface of the titanium has been specially hardened to give the metal faultless resistance to shocks and nicks over time. While titanium is notoriously hard to finish compared to the softer noble metals, Chopard’s in-house artisans have nevertheless rendered a glorious, jewel-like finish in keeping with the finest traditions of L.U.C watchmaking. The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is powered by the L.U.C 03.10-L, a movement of exceptional craft, complexity and beauty, entirely developed and produced at Chopard Manufacture’s workshops. The movement’s architecture is based around the iconic chronograph construction, featuring elements denoting chronograph watchmaking at the highest level of execution. At the heart of this mechanism, a column wheel precisely coordinates the functions of the chronograph, while a patented vertical coupling clutch ensures actuation that is light to the touch but utterly exact. The flyback function allows immediate reuse of the chronograph without the need to stop and reset.

When the zero-reset pusher is pressed, however, the instantaneous movement of the counters and central sweep seconds hand is managed by patented progressive-contact hammers that guarantee optimal precision. Finally, a semi-instantaneous jumping minute counter ensures the precise display of chronograph minutes. All chronograph functions are highlighted on the dial by red details. The perpetual calendar mechanism, crafted so that its displays integrate perfectly with the chronograph functions, is no less inventive. In particular, the high precision orbital moon phase, a showpiece of the dial design at 6 o’clock, is accurate to just a day’s deviation every 122 years. PAG E

2 9 7

w w w . c h o p a r d . c o m

MAURIZIO MIRI The Maurizio Miri’s style is a matter of

M I R I

M A U R I Z I O

research. research

that

reach the soul.

starts

from

the

observation of the reality and tries to

The aim of his job is to create garments that reflect this inner work and convey emotions.

O F

To achieve this goal Maurizio Miri

C O U R T E S Y

always put his creative touch into play to and get down to the very essence, relying on the skills of toplevel

technicians

and

designers,

high-quality fabrics and handcrafted

298 accessories.

A MATTER OF RESEARCH

The result is a sober and simple style, which eliminates all frills and creates a perfect harmony between fabrics, cuts and accessories in order to celebrate the beauty in its simplicity.

In fact, if it’s true that what is beautiful is not always also simple, on the contrary what is simple is always beautiful. That is exactly what he try to express with the essential and harmonious designs of his style. This is not a fashion requirement, but a core point of his message.

A WORK OF ART

8 w w w . m a u r i z i o m i r i . c o m

The myth of Pygmalion

MAZARINE Mazarine is inspired by a story to which

she adds a surrealist touch. This season,

Mazarine is freely inspired by the myth of Pygmalion, a sculptor who creates

his own statues, including Galatee. The statues come to life. Mazarine is inspired by the myth of Pygmalion.

For over a year, the Mazarine team

has been busy, just for fun, working

Mazarine drawing club.

w w w . m a z a r i n e . p a r i s

in drawing, painting, still life, with the

There is something enchanting about the creative

300

process, where what we imagine or not quite yet, comes to life. It is also the theme of the myth of Pygmalion that gives life to his sculpture, galatea. This research also illustrates the artistic interests, beyond fashion, of the design studiowhose other activities are united under the name of “Bleu Paris”. This spring-summer 2022 collection is inspired by the creative process, from the sewing workshops but also from the artists’ studios, from the blank canvas, the canvas on which the models come to life.

the fabric turns into a dress, gives a dreamlike vision of the creation of a collection. This collection mixes readyto-wear and tailored garments made for Mazarine clients in unusual materials, embroidered with pearls or buttons. The dresses are for day and evening, the volumes are bold, the details are surreal and the colors, cognac, spotted blue dark green, beige and black, unexpected. For this season, Thomas Dufour and Helene Timsit directed and staged the Mazarine collection video. Like every season, Mazarine produces all of its clothes in France and gives a second life to fabric stock from the big houses. For Mazarine, there is no sustainable fashion without reasoned or even on-demand production, and Mazarine has been developing over-ordering with its clients and manufacturers for several seasons now, because this is the future of fashion.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : H É L È N E T I M S I T P H : V I C T O R B E I N D F E L D

Imagining that a totem becomes a collection silhouette,

A N A I S D I R E C T O R : P H :

L A U R I E A R B E L L O T A N D C H A N T E L L E D O S S E R

M A R I O N

MINUIT

MINUIT For this season Laurie Arbellot, the creative

C R E A T I V E

302

director, and Marion Anais Forand, the creative consultant, got inspired by the spaced age during the 60s,the work of the photographer Peter Knapp and the artist John Chamberlain. The Spring Summer 22 collection is very feminine, playful, mixing clean shapes , long lean silhouette, pants with a twist to them.

w w w . 0 0 - 0 0 . c o m

MIXING CLEAN SHAPES PAG E

1 5

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

www.annagiuliafirenze.com

PAGE

30 4

PAG E

30 5

MIU MIU A reaction to and reflection of reality, an economy, a freshness found in iterations of eternal, universal garments. The Spring Summer 2022 Miu Miu collection by Miuccia Prada is an exercise in referencing and researching reality, using the existing to create the new. The

foundations are classic: trousers,

sweaters, shirts, blazers, suits and sheath dresses, absolute archetypes of everyday dress. A new balance of proportion is found through cutting into pieces, retaining the

believable character of

each, yet

altering their relationship with the body. Trousers are cut

into abbreviated skirts,

sweaters and shirts carved out to reveal the body. Edges are left raw, elements of construction exposed in commemoration of the spontaneity of these actions. The notion of reworking existent pieces extends to a collaboration with New Balance - the 574 sneaker is re-proposed in white, khaki or blue denim, with raw-cut edges. Embroideries reflect the decoration of night-time attire, embellishing dresses and suits.

BASIC INSTINCTS Everyday alongside every night, the aesthetic language of day and evening dress each serve a purpose and have a meaning within life. An antidote to meaningless novelty, the examines fundamental

collection realities of

dress, the needs and wants of people from their clothes. It is an amplification of actuality, a focus on reality. Alongside reality, fantasy: the physical and virtual spaces of

the

Miu Miu show are

punctuated with works by the artist Meriem Bennani, whose body of work explores intimate relationships mediated through the camera. Here, that idea is echoed and overlapped with another

307 interrelation, of women and fashion. Conceived alongside the

collection,

Bennani commands control of the Miu Miu live stream via a series of filmic

artistic interventions starring her own mother. These fantasy

sequences are

mixed real-time into the broadcast of

the show to blur lines between virtual and real.

IN REFERENCING AND RESEARCHING REALITY Underscoring these ideas, the the

interior of

the

Palais,

Bennani installs binocular- shaped

Palais d’Iena is interrupted rather than

screens to cut through the space, reforming and

transformed. Its architecture remains, a runway

re-editing the physical experience of the show and

devised by AMO snaking through the centre,

projecting her films into real life.

the audience balanced on Eames office chairs

As with the clothing of the collection, these filmic

as an echo of the Palais’ continuing function

cuts

as place of work.

perceptions.

create a new

work

editing reality, altering

A NEW BALANCE OF PROPORTION

The materials used for the set-up of Miu Miu Spring Summer 2022 show will find new life after the event thanks to La Reserve des Arts, an association offering a service of collection, recovery of raw materials and decoration waste from fashion shows, making them available to professionals and students of the cultural sector.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

P R A D A M I U C C I A M I U M I U A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : © C O R T E S Y O F

w w w . m i u m i u . c o m

Alongside reality, fantasy: the physical and virtual spaces of the Miu Miu show are punctuated with works by the artist Meriem Bennani

ANTONIANI

Giada Pavone CEO founder of Antoniani’s brand, was born and grew up in the tailor’s atelier of her Bolognese grandmother Fernanda

Antoniani,

whom

she

dedicated the name of her brand and where she began to animate the stylistic track of her bag creations.

An unique style with charm

EXCLUSIVE BAGS FOR FREE SOULS

313 ©

C O U R T E S Y

O F

A N O T N I A N I

The Antoniani bag is not a simple accessory, but an accent to be placed as a lifestyle and are chosen by those women who have a free spirit and love to dare, standing out for an exclusive elegance that makes them unique for their charm.

Antoniani creates exclusively unique pieces, giving priority to colors and choosing models with clean lines, with harmonious contrasts in the cuts and colors, selecting fabrics and leathers of the highest quality, mixing, as the designer likes to define, the material. A “must” of the brand are the models “B SIDE” and “L’ANTONIANI” that tell her inspiration for the style of the ‘70s and ‘80s, obviously dragging in the stylistic choices also the music scene of these years, with groups such as Roxy Music or Japan. wThe unmistakable glam of those years give her inspiration, having Jerry Hall or Pat Cleveland as muses, crossing and mixing in her total artistic inspiration fashion and music of this period. www.antonianidesign.com

S A A B

S A D A E L S

A N D R E W

E L I E

PAGE

1 4

G N

W E I N S A N T O

F A C T O R Y

C E C I L I E - B A H N S E N

A Z

R I C C I

V A L E N T I N O

N I N A

S C H I A P A R E L L I

V I V I E N N E W E S T W O O D

S E R R E

S H I A T Z Y - C H E N

P A T O U

M A R I N E

Z A D I G & V O L T A I R E

B A L E N C I A G A

M A I S O N

P A R I S

M A R G I E L A

L E O N A R D

TREND BAG: THE REVOLUTION

315

MOSSI

The looks of the collection reveal a new range of colours inspired by the Malian landscape,

notably

through

those

created in collaboration with this season’s guest, Ibrahim Ballo. A Malian painter who specialises in inserting embroidery into his work, Ballo has developed a craft technique of embellishment that he himself has applied to Mossi garments, w w w . m o s s i . f r

combining acrylic paint with a second stage of wool embroidery inspired by ancient textile manufacturing practices.

On the occasion of this presentation, which celebrates encounters between various aspects of Malian culture, Ibrahim Ballo presented to explain

316 the creative process that guided the collaboration

as well as the common history of the different actors in the collection. In a bid to promote the Parisian presence of cultural pan-Africanism, the brand has teamed up with musician Nawa Sylla to create an original soundtrack that will accompany the entire presentation.

A Frenchwoman from the Ivory Coast, Nawa Sylla crossed paths with Mossi in their neighbourhood of Hautes Noues as a teenager.

The

designer’s

objective

make

these

new energies visible, thanks to an innovative geography that involves highlighting talents whose intangible and effective positions feed the brand’s multidisciplinary collaborations. By introducing African cultures to the Carrousel du Louvre, Mossi energizes an urban and social reality that clothing, through its constant physical accompaniment, translates into an art of evolution.

invited his friend Nawa Sylla to create a sound suite inspired by West Africa. Located just a stone’s throw from the brand’s first permanent sales area, the Mossi presentation was set up in the heart of the new dynamic of the Carrousel du Louvre. Born on the outskirts of Paris, the brand is now taking its place in the centre of the capital, associating its concept of decentralised urban fashion with the aspirations of Greater Paris.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

T R A O R É

talents are geographically camouflaged,

M O S S I B R I E U C

community of young creatives whose

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : P H : S E G A L E N

The colors inspired by the Malian landscape

A CONCEPT OF URBAN FASHION

The artistic director, eager to unite a

LEOPOLDINE

Leopoldine shoes are hand-made and each, with its own story, is a flagbearer for the “Vero Made in Italy” www.leopolidineshoes.com

Leopoldine were born from many women common passion, the footwear one, that very often begins in the childhood, dreamind about Cinderella crystal shoe or ruby red as Dorothy.

The name Leopoldine comes from grandpa

Leopoldine reflect our style and what we love.

Leopoldo, who used to mark his items with

A shoes’ model commonly worn by the little ones,

his own name, including his shoes. One day,

revisited and dedicated to those women who

escaping from a farmer from whom he had

319

love a traditional but at the same time innovative

stolen cherries, he climbed a tree leaving his

style.

shoes on the ground, obviously it was not so difficult to recognize him because of his name was engraved on the sole.

NEHER A SS2 2 is inspired by the contemporar y artists

Continuing the brand’s love for volume, SS22 brings

Libenský and Brychtová and their masterpiece “The Inner

generous straight-cut trousers easily combinable

Light ”.

The Czechoslovak visionary couple revolutionized

with an shaped no-visible -pocket blazer or with

glass sculpting by exploring the materials contrasting

the vest jacket and deconstructed sleeveless

characteristics:

fragility and massiveness, color nuances

jacket. The same jackets with bow leg tapered

and transparency, light sensitivity, and reflective abilities.

trousers create a less formal look. The novelties are

Following the Libenský and Brychtová method, the NEHERA

the slim boot cut pants for a more feminine and up

SS22 shines with contrasting features that evolved into a

-to-date silhouette. Tops are more contemporary

softer, yet bolder wardrobe with a focus on cut. The collection

thanks to a wider range of manufacturing. Shir ts

plays with color depth, density and explores new and more

have diverse cuts to match dif ferent st ylings:

diverse fabrics and forms to create styles that capture strong

sleeveless A-shaped, wide straight long sleeve

creative statements in timeless expressions. The key of the

shirt, boxy volumes 3 -quarter kimono sleeve shirt.

collection is still in NEHERA’s signature tailoring that brings

Dresses include the body silhouette as well as a

this time new and unique silhouette in fluid cuts and suits.

generous volume which is a hallmark of NEHERA .

that creates the flow between the inner and outer light. The collection plays with textures like 3 completely different types of linen: classic 100 % linen, luxury linen wool-silk and sophisticated crushed linen-cotton. There is a cotton & paper trench novelty, waterproof double face or light reflecting viscose satin. The knit wear is straight for ward yet exquisite. The extra light summer pieces are made of cotton viscose along with 100 % cotton yarn knit ted with Lycra forsmall fitted tops. NEHER A SS22 collection captures that subtle inner light charge that makes the NEHERA Woman shine inwardly and out wardly. The essence of NEHERA is functional comfort. Relying on creativity

and innovation to create exceptional fashion

that remains elegant, regardless of the evanescent trends. In a fashion world obsessed with More, NEHERA ucover s the beauty in Less. With at wist. The timelessness of thedesigns is reflected in the quality of materials. A long with local craftsmen, every fiber is carefully reviewed to match the most rigorous sustainability benchmark.

layer

C R E A T I V E

The high-quality fabrics are the essential

J A N D L

321 NEHERA

NEHERA’s culture champions spontaneity, vitality, and sustainability, while the creations feel grounded and unassuming. Removing the unnecessary, and the super fluous to reveal graceful designs that are honest, unique, and quietly compelling. Under stated elegance is balanced by emotive gestures. NEHERA is an independent Slovak brand that revived the heritage of the famous C zechoslovak brand that flourished in the 1930s and made history worldwide in the integration of design, production, and retail.

P AP GA EG E3 21 2

w w w . n e h e r a . c o m

PLAYING WITH COLOR DEPTH

The artisanal tradition of the Czechoslovak textile industry goes back to the f irst ready-to-wear factory established in 1868, mainland Europe in Prostejov, the Moravian hometown of Jan Nehera.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAG E

32 3

NINA RICCI Our

planet’s

oceans are a perennial

source of awe Herrebrugh

and optimism

for Lisi

and Rushemy Botter, who

invoke its infinite beauty throughout the Nina Ricci Summer 2022 collection. A

source

abundance,

summer

playground and an endlessly shifting visual landscape, the water provides

a prism

through which the

Parisian

codes of

femininity ripple and reflect. Seen through the season’s aquatic lens, reef

shades of

turquoise,

oyster

rockpool and

sand and kelp grey

and

green,

chartreuse

radiate a tropical glow against the glare of optic white and black.

THE INFINITE BEAUTY OF PLANET’S OCEANS

325 Technical elements collide with fluid textures in an exercise

of evocation and transformation, for

silhouettes that reveal soft, floating fabrications and skin in equal measure. Keyhole tailoring in terry cloth unveils colour fields of bright satin or halter bandeau tops in slinky Milano knit, and a peak lapel jacket is deconstructed as a gilet, bustier or flowing chiffon paréo dress. Anemone polka dots and sea flora create solarized graphic moments in crèpe column skirts layered with fishnet knits, and formfitting Lycra bodies zip into scuba hoods.

THE CODES OF FEMININITY In a sensory overload of vibrant

colour

and rapid movement, an immersive short film entitled

‘Tomorrow’s

Mermaids’

explores the collection in dialogue with the

awesome power of the

elements.

Conceived as a hybrid encounter of physical and digital interaction, graceful gestures of fabric shroud the body as an LED runway set is engulfed by

walls of water and

models plunge like sirens into the blue. A dynamic photographic portfolio furthers the sensation of perpetual movement inherent to the season.

Referencing surfer’s

wetsuits

and boardshorts,

gabardine culottes flare with cut-out hip details, w w w . n i n a r i c c i . c o m

trousers are split with bonded ankle zips and modular drawstring skirts bubble in soft paperbag volumes above the knee. In

playful

wink to

the world of watersports,

accessories mirror the collection’s textures and tones, from terry

towel or 3D

printed mesh mules with

glossy cylinder ‘snorkel’ heels to rubber ‘flipper’ bags and molded rock shoes. PAGE

326

PAG E

327

A R T I S T I C

B O T T E R

Technical elements collide with fluid textures

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

NINAMOUNAH NATURAL SENSES

Ninamounah

launches

The Fertile, the Spring

w w w w .. nn ii nn aa m m oo uu nn aa hh .. nn l l w w

Summer 2022 Collection of the Amsterdam based brand, was presented at Paris Fashion Week. True to the vision of creative director Ninamounah Langestraat, the new proposal of the fashion house receives inspiration from the most instinctive natural senses that fuel the firm’s unique personality. Found throughout

the collection

in her most personal

collection yet, Ninamounah features references to the natural world incorporating bodily visuals combined with fluid lines that aim to celebrate a sense of lust and fertility.

of each

wearer,

the

garments adapt to the human shape molding V-shaped

waistbands

D I R E C T O R : N I N A M O U N A H L A N G E S T R A A T P H : N I K O L A L A M B U R O V

Defined by the flesh

C R E A T I V E

Inspiration from the most instinctive natural senses that fuel the firm’s unique personality

329

on flowy trousers and guiding the viewer’s

eyes towards the mons veneris using high cut body blouses, signature silhouette of the brand. Following

this very natural sensuality defined by the designer, other pieces drape and wrap fabrics to fabricate

voluptuous impressions resulting in a compelling and appealing visual narrative. Silk garments envelope

the waist and strapped tops hold onto the neck and shoulders, featuring swirling slithery lines that take on a feminine spatiality. Tension is created between the flowing garments and the structurality given by leather belts wrapped around hips and limbs.

The garments adapt to the human shape

A butterfly, a symbol of fertility and transformation is a key element to the collection. It lands in

the hair, circles around the hips as a belt, creates a

glistening dress and various accessories. The influence

of Dutch contemporary artist Kinke Kooi’s work is felt in the undulating

folds and organic contiguity

of strings of pearls in the butterfly dress, made of genuine butterflies and jade pearls. The neutral colours

of the collection, applied in leather and satin, are accompanied by a luscious green and a contrasting purple in laces and silky fabrics, as well as goopy prints revealing composi- tions of sexual indulgences.

Bomb by The Runaways. The fruit often refers to a

the Swedish midsummer, in which the phallic

person’s virginity.

may- pole is stuck in the ground to fertilize the

The punk-rock tune reinterprets the cherry and

dirt. The film is shot in a lush grass field, with

claims it as a symbol of lust and rock. Ninamounah

models walking in a choreography that mimics

takes a holistic approach to the social construct

the seasonal ritual. In the background plays Cherry

that is virginity.

A KEY ELEMENT TO THE COLLECTION WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A R T I S T I C

D I R E C T I O N : N I N A M O U N A H P H : N I K O L A L A M B U R O V

L A N G E S T R A A T

The collection’s audiovisual piece is inspired by

OTTOLINGER Ottolinger

Spring/Summer

2022

edge,

contemplative and radiant energy. Staying true to our sensuous Elf core the collection blossoms in a brisk and fluctuant ecosystem: Ablaze Florescence, a rugged Obsidian Archipelago in bloom. A sea of gelled pink lava shot through with the raw luxuriance emanating from resilient rock foliage : Green Citrus, Baby Lime , Healing Herbs, Ne w Sage , Aromatic Chartreuse for a New Day , interlaced with wind -strewn Bougainville a, Deep Corals and Sea Salt

Denim,

all

sprayed

crashing turquoise surf. Nuances and moods sync with the disjointed beauty of the work by the artist Lucie Stahl, transferred for this season onto Signature Mesh pieces, alongside sinuous ribbed knits wrapping and snaking close around our bodies like wild vines, keeping us coolly

control,

sleek

and

agile to explore.

332

As darkness falls we keep on trekking. Clad in painted denim, hot pants, Metallic Suiting, GlamFi Maxi Coats and Saturnine Cocktail dresses in dark obsidian and lava pink , futuristically sculpted into Crescent silhouettes, we descend on an intergalactic summer storm night.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A R T I S T I C

G A D I E N T & C H R I S T A O T T O L I N G E R

B Ö S C H

The collection blossoms in a brisk and fluctuant ecosystem

w w w . o t t o l i n g e r . c o m

A RADIANT ENERGY

w w w . p a t o u . c o m

H E N R Y D I R E C T I O N : G U I L L A U M E P H : M A R C H I B B E R T A R T I S T I C

LA PANTAISIE

PATOU

334

Drawing a daydream, With ink at the seams,

Patou speaks in volumes! A parka cloak and cavalier cuffs,

Crown buckers, mini tea cups, Golden Gustave Doré! A tale of Patou partout!

Queen of her taeecl,

she receives In grandificent sleeves Patou della Verità, voilà! Can you guess?

C’est la Pantaisie Patouesque!

Patou speaks in volumes!

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

PAG E

1 5

336

PHISIQUE DU ROLE The company is located in Carpi, in the north of Italy , which has been a textile district of Italian excellence for over 50 years. Their production is completely made in Italy. The raw materials are f rom Italian companies and when they are not, they are dyed or processed in Italy.

They give priority to raw materials of natural origin, and in case they’re

artif icial

synthetic

they’re recycled. Their suppliers all and

have

green

certif ications

implement

sustainability

policies. Processing is zero km, and subcontracting takes place almost exclusively in the district. Many garments are labelled with the producer’s label of the raw material, so that the origin of the f ibre can be traced.

A TOTAL LOOK COMPLETELY MADE WITH JERSEY,

COOL, LIGHT AND IN A

Most of their garments are shipped folded and without hangers, drastically reducing the environmental impact of packaging, a consolidated practice in Europe and worldwide. Producing quality garments is their flag, buying fewer but long-lasting garments is def initely a green act. Raising consumers’ awareness

this

direction

fundamental philosophy.

them

WITH A DESIRE FOR AN

ANDROGYNOUS STYLE

R U L E D U

AESTHETICS,

P H I S I Q U E

KIND OF

O F

A ONE-WAY

C O U R T E S Y

NATURAL FIBRE

FIBRE.

w w w . p h i s i q u e d u r o l e . c o m

NATURAL

F LASHES OF A FUTURE ROMANCE IN A WORLD FULL OF NOISES

RAF SIMONS

READING WRITING DANCING KISSING LICKING SLEEPING CRYING LEADING WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

338

w w w . r a f s i m o n s . c o m

C O U R T E S Y

O F

R E B I R T H

I T A L Y

PASSION FOR CREATIVITY

340

NOT JUST A LINE From the love for nature and the

The

protection

environment,

the line is reflected in the

and f rom the passion for creativity,

materials: metal combined

movement

craftsmanship and attention to detail

with recycled leathers or

plays of light and light-

typical of Made in Italy, in 2010 the

fabrics.

dark effects that enhance

Rebirth Italy brand was created: not

The metal sheet, the result

the complexion.

just a line of jewelry, but a design

collection of “wearable sculptures”.

very

The inspiration comes f rom imperial

hypoallergenic and totally

adaptable to the body: all

Rome and Ancient Egypt: cultures in

recyclable, it maintains an

models have ergonomic

which the jewel was an essential key

unchanged brilliance over

shapes.

of female sensuality.

time.

the

contemporaneity

years

Its malleability generates continuous

sense

and

inf inite

research,

The particular processing

light,

versatile,

makes

each

article

S C U L P T U R E S

E OF JEWELRY

W E A R A B L E

REBIRTH ITALY

PAGE

34 2

w w w . r e b i r t h - i t a l y . i t

EACH ELEMENT IS UNIQUE The

collection,

even

large volumes, is ultra light: minimum weight is 2 grams for earrings to a maximum of 40 grams for a necklace. The precious leathers and fabrics all come from processing residues (bags, shoes and clothes) and thus find a new life. Even very small leftovers are not left out, which

can

instead

become

an absolutely exclusive piece: one of the characteristics of the line is that, thanks to the craftsmanship, each element is unique and unrepeatable, as well as the wearer.

PAG E

343

P A R I S

N O M A D E

S C H I A P A R E L L I

“Splendor in the Sun”

C O P E R N I

L E O N A R D

The Surrealist’s Holiday

RENDEZ-VOUS

G N

V A L E N T I N O

A N D R E W

SAV I N G T H E C O RA L S

S A A B

P H :

D R I E S R A F A E L

V A N N O T E N P A V A R O T T I

I N S P I R AT I O N

E L I E

D A N I E L E

A N C A R A N I

M A I S O N

V I V I E N N E

W E S T W O O D

M A R G I E L A

345 Are you ready TO CHOOSE the shoes of next spring summer ?

ROCHAS Nearly a century since the young couturier Marcel Rochas dazzled in Paris, an oneric underworld of strange beauty pulses through the Rochas SS 2022 collection designed by Charles de Vilmorin. Paraded through the onorate salon on Mona von Bismarck’s Parisian fantasia, cinematic vignettes underpin vibrant new expressions of a poetic world on fire.

A master of Surreal figuration, de Vilmorin’s plume conjures an illustrated universe of women: curlicues of black ink that reveal androgyne bodies in motion,

346 expressionist portraits, and the dreamlike remnants of an ancestral home. Weaving through a labyrinth of heightened gestures and emotion, the silhouette sublimates classical shapes with new lightness,

deconstructing the whimsy of cotton dresses and parachute skirts hitched in tumbling volumes, crisp shirts unbuttoned in peeling drapes and gowns that glint in tiers of flaming plissé.

Colors glow in a harlequin palette of cobalt, lemon and flame reds that smoulder against charcoal and smoke. Leather crackles in varnished lambskin, metallic brocades dissolve into chiffon pleats, and flame lilies blossom over tattoo hosiers and dazzling embroidered jewels. Traced across cloth in silvery flames, broderies anglaise figures and nature morte jacquard, de Vilmorin’s intricate illustrations converge with expressions of graphic purity, from fringe-beaded poplin checks and optic white tailoring to monochrome organza ruffles

w w w . r o c h a s . c o m

and halter tops draped in crushed mousseline.

An oneric underworld of strange beauty pulses through the Rochas SS 2022 collection designed by Charles de Vilmorin

THE SILHOUETTE SUBLIMATES CLASSICAL SHAPES WITH NEW LIGHTNESS

PAGE

34 8

A R T I S T I C

the

season’s

enchanted

personage with steampunk flourish, an array of platform motocross boots and peep toe sandals are embellished with stained glass beading, piercings, and tarnished buckles whilst square toe cuissards are trimmed in undulating organza waves.

PAG E

349

Androgyne bodies in motion

Accenting

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

Sadaels presented its spring summer 2022 collection on the closing day of the ofﬁcial Paris Fashion

Week

calendar.

The

creative universe of the brand puts in tension the antagonist Flemish heritage

and of

its

Argentinian creator.

The

brand tries to highlight this southamerican

heritage

and

materials in a kitsch and ironic way ﬁltered by Antwerp’s lens. Fluid materials are transformed by architectural cuts, a midpoint between

conceptual

anti-

Antwerp and Latin- American intuitive sensuality. This tension aims to deconstruct, rethink and give value to their roots. They want to highlight and enrich the Argentine traditions, materials and typical garments

350

of the gaucho and Pampean culture, but with a satirical spirit, not solemn or traditional, urban and youthful that comes from nothing less than the academy of Antwerp. They believe that Argentina is much more than a caricature of a gaucho and a horse, they have multiple layers of amazing and hybrid influences that go far back, from ancestral cultures to Italian and Spanish immigrant influences that make their culture rich and hybrid. In this logic their SS22 digital PFW presentation showcases a fashion film directed by Macarena Rubio and produced by Poster.

The short ﬁlm introduces an intimist family portrait, getting ready for a delusional wedding taking place in a typical ¨conventillo¨ from Buenos Aires. The narrative uses a kitsch, colorful and eclectic atmosphere, dear to the argentinean immigrant urban life.

w w w . s a d a e l s . c o m

fashion’s experimentation from

SADAELS A CREATIVE UNIVERSE Their

SS22

collection

“Cumbiancheta”,

referring

called to

the

cumbia of the 1990s. This retro tropical musical genre of pan-Latin American origins, had a trailblazing impact in our popular culture. Neon colours, decadence and opulence represent this golden era, infused by the economic fantasy that 1 peso was equal to 1 dollar, marked the aesthetics of our society in the

period,

Versace’s

transforming

Miami

the

Gianni cultural

epitome. While consumption was out of control,neoliberalism ruined internally the country: our factories were emptied and their artisanal savoir-faire were progressively lost, crisis was just around the corner. Oblivious, extremely tanned,blonde and in animal print lower middle classes now enjoyed eating Pizza with Champagne,and our president rode the streets on a red Ferrari and hung out with the Rolling Stones on tv.

FLEMISH AND ARGENTINIAN HERITAGE The ﬁlm seeks to cast a light on their strong bloodline

The leather was worked in unconventional ways:

rituals, a picturesque and festive B-side that invites

macramé braided into accessories or pieces that

us to think about the importance of family ties

are found

in their culture, sometimes absurd, sometimes

These accessories called “sadaels” (a play on words

suffocating, undeniably

between society anonyme Daels

intense. The collection

between clothing and leather goods.

and

with the

is inspired by the 90’s minimalism turned kitsch,

concept of saddle (SADDLE in English) are based

uber-sexuality in the form of boob implants and the

on a reﬂection on female clothing and the absence,

nostalgic period of 1920’s, when Parisians referred

from construction, of the ability to wear without the

to Argentinians as “riche comme des Argentins”,

need for an extra bag or accessory. In addition to

an utopia once achieved that never came back.

leather, the novelties are presented in neoprene,

The use of leather is central to this collection in

cotton poplins and Italian silks. The color palette

counterpoint to the use of latex and vinyl materials.

ranges from black, neons, red and white. PAGE

352

D A E L S D I R E C T O R J U A N H E R N A N D E Z P H : S A N - A G O C A N - L L O PAG E

353

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A R T I S T I C

CONCEPTUAL ANTI-FASHION’S EXPERIMENTATION FROM ANTWERP AND LATIN- AMERICAN INTUITIVE SENSUALITY

THE SURREALIST’S HOLIDAY

SCHIAPARELLI “ This season, as always, I was thinking of the woman behind this Maison: Elsa Schiaparelli, who gave this house not only its name, but its identity. The term “psycho chic” may not have existed in Elsa’s time (nor, admittedly, now! ) and yet it’s how I always explain her and her vision to myself: this was a woman fascinated by the dawning of the technological age, of advances in fabric and engineering, of the avantgarde in f ilm and art.

She was a patron of the arts, and an artist herself, but she was also a scientist of a kind, someone who celebrated innovation and progress of

all

355 kinds: creative, social, cultural.

And yet who was she at home, or on holiday?

Who was she when she stepped off the stage, when she was alone, away from the glittering Parisian demimonde?

ELSA ON HOLIDAY What does the Schiaparelli woman wear when she’s

On the other hand, there is Elsa on

not—to use a beloved term f rom drag serving?

holiday—though

This collection offers a suggestion. On one hand,

holiday clothes for a physical destination,

there is Elsa in the city: Here, the codes of the house

but for a state of mind as well: They’re

(the Surrealist jewelry, the playful,

pieces for a literal escape, but also

pliable fabric

breasts, the exaggeration and displacement of

an escape f rom

body parts) meet twists on classic ‘70s-era French

for

ready-to-wear

the

imagination

language—horsebit

closures

are

these

are

not

just

reality, a wardrobe

Lynchian landscape, can

roam

where without

re-imagined in Schiaparelli hardware; the classic

boundaries. For this state of being and

miniskirt-and-jacket set is remade in white denim,

mind, there is fantasy swimwear, like a

trimmed in crispy patent leather; a floral print is

multicolor striped knit onesie made of

remixed into a slouchy, sequined pantsuit.

dry hand mercerized cotton; or a fluid, PAGE

356

ELSA IN THE CITY black silk dress, one

that appears to

have been draped directly on its wearer; or a sweeping belted caftan made of tropical silk viscose, its red-and-white stripes nodding to the iconic

beach

umbrellas that, in summer, adorn the Mediterranean coastline.

PAG E

357

THE SILHOUE TTE S ARE EASY

PLUS REAL NEW YORK WEDDINGS

PAGE

358

w w w . s c h i a p a r e l l i . c o m

The silhouettes are easy, but the spirit of the house—its daring, its hatred of the banal and the good-enough—remain intact. And for every look, there are updates on

our

accessories:

oversized earrings and necklaces in brushedmatte f inishes; snakeskin shoulder bags in that same umbrella stripe; a polite-but-not variation on our classic Secret bag, named for its signature hardware padlock. So who is City Elsa and Seaside Elsa? She’s ref ined but barbaric. Chic but a little vulgar. Conservative but uninhibited. Tailored but also relaxed. Private but also performative.

PAG E

359

These dualities were what made Elsa who she was, but they’re also what makes every woman who wears Schiaparelli who she is as well. She’s irreducible, and because of that, inimitable. She remains who she is even when no one’s watching.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

PAGE

360

PAG E

36 1

A WOMAN REFINED

D A N I E L R O S E B E R R Y S C H I A P A R E L L I

PAGE

362

PAG E

36 3

363

PAGE

364

PAG E

36 5

Montecarlo Automobiles was present at the 26th Monaco Yacht Show which took place from September 22 to 25, 2021 in the famous Port Hercule in the Principality of Monaco. During this unique and exceptional event in the world, the future programs of Montecarlo Automobiles were presented. On Thursday, September 23rd, an Official Presentation was organized with a real-world premiere of two prototypes of cars made especially for this event, ÈTÈ and MIG20 and other trendy and innovative sea tools such as ALA50, ÈTÈ and JETMIG.

PAGE

366

This international presentation marked the Brand rebirth with the entry of a new President, Bogdan Skutkiewicz, and a new CEO, Giorgio Stirano, who support Fulvio Maria Ballabio, Founder and Ambassador of the brand, guarantor of a commitment renewed over the years and which, thanks to the new upcoming projects, is going to reach a new level of excellence. Sports champions, international artists, personalities from Monegasque institutions and entrepreneurs participated in the event.

PAG E

367

Among the guests: from the sporting sector, Stéphane Richelmi, world champion racing, Alex Caffi, former Formula 1 racing driver; in the entertainment and culture sector, Lorena Baricalla, international Ballet Star, singer and actress. On this occasion, an episode of the series “Lorena & Friends” was filmed for the American network JUL-TV produced by PromoArt MonteCarlo Production. The broadcast of real life, art, luxury and the art of lifestyle illustrated Montecarlo Automobiles with the

w w w . m c a . m c

PAGE

36 8

participation of Bogdan Skutkiewicz and guests of the event. Were also present Marcos Marin, Official Artist of the Fondation Prince Albert II de Monaco; from the institutional field, Christian Tornatore, Automobile Club de Monaco General Commissioner; Jacques Pastor, deputy mayor and sport advisor of the City of Monaco; from luxury and lifestyle bloggers as well as Monaco Yacht Show 2021 Ambassadors, Davide Cesaro and Seyma Yigit ; from the world of business and sport, Johnny Cecotto Jr., CEO and co-founder of Stars Monte Carlo.

PAG E

36 9

AN UNEXPECTED BALANCE OF EAST AND WEST

SHANG XIA

The spring summer 2022 collection, the firstdesigned by Yang Li, is a manifesto for the duality inherent within Shang Xia, an unexpected balance of east and west, light and shadow, past and future, motion and emotion. endless optimism meets avantgarde elegance and nature, technology.

Romantic gestures executed with ultimate precision create a warorobe imbued with the philosophy of invisible might: high minimalism in garment-making that merges with the concept of light both matter and a medium unto itself. Sharp planes of dreamlike colour denote a silhouette that glows with promise in lemon and acid yellows, neon persimmon and acid rose, lotus pink and Shang Xia cobalt blue. Devoted to paramount materiality, the collection traverses density from svelte double-faced cashmere and galvanized silver calf hair to gossamer silks, ultrafine jersey and quilted lambskin plongé.

Relaxed

tailoring

subverts

371

the

formality

barathea wool mohair and matte silk cady whilst lustre and transparency elevate sartorial and sport shapes in liquid faille, organdy and double satin.

The absolute forms of triangle, circle and square

scale up and down for both function and detail , creating doubled sleeve structures, drape and

volume. Epitomised by the Shang Xia triangle bag, these essential shapes materialise throughout as bubble slides, circle zips and satin finish studs. A R T I S T I C D I R E C T I O N : Y A N G L I © C O U R T E S Y O F S H A N G X I A

Industrial design processes applied to fashion result in sprayed typography, lacquered surfaces and custom aluminium hardware. A new standard is set as archetypes of simplicity are honed to perfection: the overcoat, teddy, perfecto, caban, kaftan, shirt dress, twin set, tuxedo and trench are addressed as postmodern relics - evoking classical connotations in a new,

w w w . s h a n g x i a . c o m

liberated context.

SHIATZY CHEN With CIRCUS as the theme of the 2022 SS collection, we see Design Director Ms. Shiatzy Chen drawing inspirations f rom the playfulness and brisk joy inherent in the word, and demonstrated such inspirations in the form of the western s tyle circus and the tiger pattern with oriental implications. Daring

breakthrough

and

take

challenges despite the constraints and limits faced in life, mesmerizing the audience with a mystical ambiance and a spectacular circus show. Since SHIATZY CHEN joined FHCM in 2008, she is again participating in Paris Fashion Week via online fashion sh ow due to the influence worldwide.

the

coronavirus

pandemic

LE CIRQUE

w w w . s h i a t z y c h e n . c o m / #

Entering the venue of extreme sports, once completely beyond the imagination of fashion, the winding and changing terrain brings the audience into a dimension of surprise s and amazement. The gradual illumination of neon lights, clowns stepping in formation and leading the troupe

373

in boun cy joy, the magician waving the baton, models traversing amidst rows of stunt

performers, a blend of acrobatic dance a nd cyr wheel performance demonstrating force and beauty all in one, storming new ideas with

the mix and match of or iental and western

cultures, and creating moments too splendid to miss.

This season responds to the imagination of circus with vibrant and extravagant looks.

pleated lace collar, and fluffy rounded skirts and dresses propped by bustles, opening this collection with celeb ratory cheer. This season’s original print can be seen here and there in this collection as the classic elements of circus. Representing adventures

and

challenges:

the

high-

temperature blue flame hoop, the crawling tiger implicating an orient al image, the acrobat swinging between the ropes.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A dimension of surprises and amazement

Lace and lotus leaf layered fluffy sleeves,

PAGE

374

pigeons, the cheering streamers, and the curtain

are gender-neutral and inspired by the circus

tail roses. From dots to planes, the elements are

magician. The suit vest, bloomers, flared jacket,

tr ansformed into patterns and taking forms of

making the tall and sleek silhouette; the pointed

embroidery, drawing, and jacquard, or at times

toe strap on Muller shoes and pointed toe casual

the classic circus patterns o f stripes and argyle

shoes, prof iling the female magician which

pattern. The colors in the season see rich bright

both caref ree and romantic. The accessories,

orange and red inviting everyone to a festive

including bracelet, necklace, and earrings are

show, sky blue and pink mix and matched as

also inspired by the circus, trailing the jump

dreamy and brilliant anticipations, then moving

through f ire hoops while using different layers to

on to classic black and white da shed with the

create fun, delicately responding to the spirit of

occasional orange, highlighting splendor well-

this season which is daring to breakthrough and

matched. The feature of this season lies in the

take on challenges. Handbags are inspired by

combination of classic mandarin collar shirts and

the design of retro bowling bags. Covered in the

dresses with the fluffy sleeves and lace collars

original patterns which comprise of drawings of

being detachable accessories, a creative novelty

circus tiger, f ire hoop, white pigeon, and curtain

fusing the western and oriental cultures, and

tail roses, a spectacular display of the Circus

turning par ts of the clothing into accessories. In

elements.

C H E N

different parts, there are also many items that

: S H I A T Z Y C H I

circus argyle pattern, the magician’s white

D I R E C T I O N P H : S A N K O

addition to dresses that can be assembled with

A R T I S T I C

Representing bustling amusements: the classic

PAG E

375

The Collection unfolds the story of heritage carrying a hope

A R T I S T I C

D I R E C T I O N : I R A K L I P H : D A V I T G I O R G A D Z E

R U S A D Z E

SITUATIONIST Air Of Uncertainty Situationist SS22 collection titled

“Air

Uncertainty” is exploring the surrounding, current situations of mind, constructed chaos, objects and individual body of work. Process of picking, selecting as well as declining. Past few months have been extremely alarming, uncertain and deconstructive and somehow hopeful. For majority of people in different fields, especially in fashion and art, it felt like a repetitive dead end. Currently it feels like there’s no space or air for planning ahead but there’s an excitement to share, to tell, to show and point,

376

look there’s something right here with us that matters the most.

We’re extremely happy to be able to travel from Tbilisi, Georgia and showcases their SS22 pieces with their merged selected installations. For some it’s less complex but for Situationist it’s always a longer road to achieve the ability to tell.

The Collection unfolds the story of heritage carrying a hope.

The story of heritage carrying a hope

w w w . s i t u a t i o n i s t o f f i c i a l . c o m

Exploring the surrounding current situations of mind

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A FRESH AND CHEEKY SPIRIT

eyes, emphasized by a double eyeliner with a sixties touch, for the Spring-Summer 2022 Collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Peter

Philips

explains:

“I

379 highlighted the eyes, elongating them with a double line of black

eyeliner that was graphic but light,

in a fresh and cheeky spirit with a sixties vibe.”

D I O R O F C O U R T E S Y

a makeup look that enhances the

Director for Dior Makeup, created

A sixties touch

w w w . d i o r . c o m

Peter Philips, creative and image

DIOR Make Up

THEBE MAGUGU

A R T I S T I C

D I R E C T O R : T H E B E P H : P A U L S A M U E L S

M A G U G U E

THE GE NEA LOGY SS22 C OLLEC TI ON BY SOUTH AFRICAN FASHION DESIGNER THEBE MAGUGU IS A LOOK INWARD TOWARDS THE DE SIGNER’S MOST C HERISHED P O S S E S S I O N : H I S F A M I LY .

GENEALOGY Set-up

roundtable

discussion,

Thebe

women, living under the same house, sharing

Magugu, Iris Magugu - his mother- and Esther

and workshopping clothes out of necessity, each

Magugu - his aunt - proceed to unpack a box

developed an interesting and hybridised sense

of family photos which illustrate signif icant

of style, which could oscillate f rom 1990’s Stealth

moments in all their upbringings. The brand has

Wealth to 1890’s Devotion. Exploring the brands

always cited very specif ic references and motifs,

roots, the collection features a prominent print

which are all chronicled and broken down in

inspired by the Sotho culture’s re-contextualized

this documentary. The collection pick-pockets a

wax print known as Seshweshwe. Thebe Magugu

variety of era’s of his grandmothers masterfully

replaces the iconography often printed on the

pleated skirts and draped blouses f rom the 1950’s,

cotton calico in favour of regal portraits of his

his mothers leg-of-mutton sleeves f rom the

own family, who are encased in ornamental

1960’s and her subsequent rebellion in the 1970’s

ovals step and repeated over the length of the

with improbably short skirts, which his family in

fabric. “The idea of re-contextualization has held

jest refers to as her ‘2 Centimetre Clothes’ era.

my fascination for quite some time, because it

In the 80’s, his aunt Esther experimented with

intersects ideas of making do with what

localised punk, inspired by the rising star of that

you have and f inding use, even beauty, in objects,

time Brenda Fassie - who TIME Magazine had just

structures, words and histories that were meant

named ‘The Madonna of the Township’. All these

to take-down and destroy you”.

Their second shoe proposition, titled the After-Tears Kitten Heel, feature prominent ‘ears’ which jut out in front of the shoe, with a hand-stitched border which runs all around its edge. In South Africa, ‘After-Tears’ is known as a celebratory gathering after a funeral. “It’s a tough, feminine shape I have come to associate greatly with my late grandmother Matiego Magugu, and her chic dignity”, says Thebe Magugu. Its sharp toe continues the shape of the brand’s previous

involve a coin stamped with the brands Sisterhood Emblem, which continues the collection’s theme of

heritage,

heirloom

and

the

found

object.

Exaggerated doeks (head-pieces) favoured at milestone events like weddings and wakes, have been done using pieces of left-over fabric from the cutting room floor, created in collaboration with Cape-Town based milliner Crystal Birch.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

w w w . t h e b e m a g u g u . c o m

season’s ‘Sunday Best Boot’. Accessories this season

TOM VAN DER BORGHT w w w . t o m v a n d e r b o r g h t . c o m

TIME FOR LOVE

C o u r t e s y

o f

T o m

V a n

D e r

B o r g h t

FOR THIS NEW EDITION OF THE FESTIVAL OF HYÈRES, TOM VAN DER BORGHT PRESENTED HIS NEW COLLECTION “TIME FOR LOVE”.

The clothing becomes a living metaphor of the connection between humans. After winning the 35th edition of the Hyères festival, Tom sought to make a transition between his two collections! Last year, his universe was the essence of his inspiration, a kind of “take it or leave it”. For this new season, Tom is less frontal and invites us to enter his universe while making it wearable through pieces with more ready to wear cuts. In the collection, you will see a lot of pearls, likes earrings attached to the clothes, patched peaches on the green and purple look.

on the other hand his love for delicate materials and details. To keep this sense of details, Tom has collaborated with Maison Lesage, Hubert Barrere, House of Paloma and Maison Michel. Tom creates an important hat collection to share a message: the

New luxury is the future of LUXURY

On one hand we find his love for sportwear and

383

hats are an answer to the Covid situation. Rather

than covering the mouth, the eyes are covered. For instance, you can find the iconic double hat on

look 14 which was a first in terms of realization for Maison Michel. Tom is considering sustainability as a responsibility that we have to take, it is something

that has to come from the inside. Tom is not working on seasons and gender. He will not decide who will wear his clothes. So he prefers to create a lasting piece that you will wear for a long time.

The movement of fabric THE DYNAMIC CURVES

UJOH WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

Seeking the beautiful lines created by the

The movement of the neatly flared

relationship between the body and the clothes.

fabric f rame the dynamic curves,

It is not an exaggeration of the body, but the

the slits open up the fabric more

movement of the clothes themselves, which

f reely and the layers of depth create

move to evoke new emotions and bring a sense

expressions with graphically incised

of lightness and comfort.

curves.

It is with the idea of creating beautiful

lines

that

can

perfectly adapted to your daily wardrobe, that they have created a collection that is as unique as it is beautiful, and that can resonate within your heart Some characteristic

materials

were

as if there was tile embroidered on it. The prints were designed by Kanako Sasaki, a painter they have

been

collaborating

with

since last season. While designing the harmony with the cutting, the

w w w . u j o h - a m r . c o m

patterns express the dynamism of a strong brush stroke and the power

overlapping

colors.

High-gauge cardboard knitwear made of recycled polyester help expressing

some

awareness

D I R E C T O R P H : K O D A I

fabric with geometric patterns,

A R T I S T I C

as moss green pinstripe and satin

M I T S U R U N I S H I Z A K I I K E M I T S U

used to create the collection, such

385 on

sustainability,

which

has

been consciously added to the collection this season.

THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE BODY AND THE CLOTHES

ELEONORA GHILARDI

Charming like Champagne, it’s aprecious metal alloy, ALWAYS GLAMOROUS

In its effervescence it recalls the Prosecco bubbles. SOPHISTICATED, ELEGANT.

w w w . e l e o n o r a g h i l a r d i . c o m

PAGE

386

Sparkling Collection are closely related to three types of wine

Inspired by rosè wine, it has warm, enveloping tones. MODERN, UNUSUAL.

PAG E

38 7

In UMA WANG 2022 SS collection, the designer brings us to enhance the best relation you can have with clothes, that happened when clothes resemble a soul mate, your soul mate. Clothing shouldn’t be a carrier of desire but part of the art of living…. The beauty of a young body one day will

A R T I S T I C D I R E C T O R : U M A P H : O J O S T U D I O S

W A N G

disappear but the personality is forever.

UMA WANG

Your soul mate

IN HARMONY WITH YOUR SPIRIT AND AESTHETICS

389

The clothes that make

you want to live in a long time are the one in harmony with your spirit and

aesthetics,

clothes

will

these

sublimate

your beauty and your

own beauty will magnify them.

w w w . u m a w a n g . c o m

THE ART OF LIVING

IN HARMONY WITH YOUR SPIRIT AND AESTHETICS Such clothes can be the treasure in your closet, loyal to your soul and never let you bored. The design details of this season continue the consistent characteristics of UMAWANG aesthetic, but more concise and effortless, with a stronger tendency for the daily “uniform”... PAGE

390

The keywords are: classical green in Renaissance oil paintings. Overripe pink rose, black and white with a fluid sense of volume, overlapped diamond-shaped grid with a delicate chromaticity, large sleeves, knot. Knot, knot… PAG E

39 1

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

w w w . u n g a r o . c o m

L’ENVOLÉE While doing research for the Spring-Summer collection, Designer Kobi Halperin explored the history of Ungaro and what immediately caught his eye was the iconic butterfly top. With its retro glamour and Saint-Tropez spirit, it created an indelible fashion moment through its pure celebration of femininity. That moment’s sensibilities, embraced by the modern and sophisticated woman, served as his inspiration. Butterflies have always been revered as exquisite creatures of delicate beauty.

Few of nature’s creations can match their wondrous combinations of color,

form, and

UNGARO

of the scintillating Mediterranean Sea, cobblestone

function.

streets and lush mountains sparked the inspiration

Energized by a recent trip to the French Riviera,

for textures, prints, and embroideries that capture

where glamour and style mix with an illustrious

the essence of this luxurious enclave.

history,

He infused bright colors and bold patterns inspired

He was taken by the visual splendor of this

by Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, where you can get lost

magnificent region where women dress effortlessly

in the tranquility of a beautiful oasis and wander

chic by day and elegant at night. Breathtaking views

through extravagant tropical gardens.

393

Grace and elegance

EXQUISITE CREATURES OF DELICATE BEAUTY

While

butterflies represent natural forms

of perfected beauty, they

also

exist

metaphorically as expressions of freedom and flight.

Indeed, that beauty arrives through a

literal metamorphosis, a transformation from one form to another. From the chrysalis a timeless beauty takes flight and the Ungaro woman once again soars with grace and elegance.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAGE

394

A R T I S T I C

D I R E C T O R P H : R A L P H

: K O B I W E N I G

H A L P E R I N

Creating an indelible fashion moment through its pure celebration of femininity

NATURAL FORMS OF PERFECT BEAUTY PAG E

39 5

HAND PAINTING BAG

396

The complicity and the experience in the world of

fashion

and

art

Anna and Maria Rosaria Supino, two extraordinary sisters whose roots are rooted in the wonderful Salerno land, has given rise,

through

their

love

and healthy feelings, to a wonderful challenge: the birth

“BAIADERA”,

brand of “hand-painted” bags

which,

rigorously

through artisanal

production, translates into each product as a unique and unrepeatable piece, just like a true work of art. The history of Baiadera is a fantastic journey through the colors and scents of the warm land of Campania that Anna and Maria Rosaria wisely express and translate thanks to the production of their bags. All Baiadera collections can be defined as a real “ART FASHION”. The deep knowledge of leathers, the search for innovative techniques of “hand-made” painting and the extraordinary creativity and intuition of the Supino sisters for aesthetic and graphic looks, which no woman would give up, has allowed them to create exclusive bags collections, unique and inimitable: a real “must have” for all those women who do not want to give up luxury, elegance and originality. Owning a Baiadera bag does not only mean choosing an exclusive and original style, but it is surprising to find that it turns into an accessory that you can never give up, incredibly discovering that you always have it with you on every occasion. w w w . b a i a d e r a . c o m

Valentin Yudashkin

Valentin Yudashkin devotes the New Collection of the spring-summer 2022 season to the art of painting.

w w w . y u d a s h k i n . c o m

E M O T I O N A L AT M O S P H E R E FILLED WITH NEW IDEAS A N D T R E N D S O F A R T.

The theme of art has always inspired architects,

designers

and

masters

applied art. Earlier, Maestro turned to the Russian avant-garde. This year, Valentin

398 Yudashkin was inspired for the new collection by the works of great Spanish painter Juan Miro.

Miro’s works have the f reshness and easy

of the perception of colors. This made it possible to return to the era of the

beginning of the XX century, rethink the images, but maintain the same emotional

atmosphere f illed with new ideas and trends of art.

Lightness, airiness, simplici-

ton with silk. Decoration of

ty and color were used in the

chiffon, muslin, gazar and silk

new collection of the Season.

tulle add lightness and charm

The main task was to f ind

to the images. Embroidery on

new forms, preserving the

dresses is created as a paint-

traditions

Valentin

ing on canvas of the artist.

House,

The art of Juan Miro inspired

namely the variety of colors,

Maestro to the new prints. A

the use of embroidery, com-

large palette of picturesque

plex drapes and multi-layered

shades and design forms was

sets. The collection presents

used. The beige color plays

new

cotton

an important role in the col-

fabrics used after recycling

lection, as a color symbolizing

as well as mixed fabrics, such

the female body as a canvas

as cotton with wool and cot-

of the artist.

Yudashkin

the

Fashion

technological

C R E A T I V E D I R E C T O R : V A L E N T I N Y U D A S H K I N P H : A L E K S A N D R E M O S E E N K O V

LIGHTNESS, AIRINESS, SIMPLIC I T Y AND C OLOR

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

RENDEZ-VOUS Change

perspective.

Fashion

The

Creative

Director

Pierpaolo

Piccioli

keeps

imagined in the studio and created in

resignifying the Valentino signs.

the Atelier, but it is on the street that

In a tenacious quest for life and truth, which is

it becomes alive and real, meeting the

essentially the urge to root a rich heritage in the

imperfection of existence, day after day,

present time, he meets, and not only symbolically,

lit by the unique identity of the wearer.

the street, with its varied and magmatic humanity.

FASHION IS ON THE STREET AND IT BECOMES ALIVE AND REAL The path is made evident in the physicality

movement:

the catwalk, fashion, worn by individuals, arrives after a tour and a detour through alleys and sidewalks. The inversion of meaning is all the more evident and powerful as the elements of the Valentino vocabulary are clearer. Some even come, as they are, f rom the archive: icons of the house re-edited with philological accuracy and labeled Valentino Archive to travel through space and time, encountering today’s physicality and ways of being.

w w w . v a l e n t i n o . c o m

401 VALENTINO

PAGE

4 02

These garments undergoing a vigorous historical

inspired pieces enhance the physicality and

displacement - the animal print coat, the white

sensuality of the body, revealing it.

dress worn by Marisa Berenson, the long floral

Taffetas, a symbol of Couture, is washed, beaten,

dresses photographed by Chris von Wangenheim,

deprived of any preciousness to turn into jackets,

are part of a stylistic weaving dominated by a quest

anoraks, oversized shirts, Bermuda shorts, the

for a new meaning. Tailoring is reinterpreted in

play of additions enhanced by the contrasting

the volumes and the vivid, acrylic colors; active-

colors.

TAILORING IS REINTERPRETED IN THE VOLUMES AND THE VIVID, ACRYLIC COLORS

PAG E

40 3

PAGE

4 0 4

Denim, worn with precious white shirts that are decorated, inlaid with broderie anglaise, embroidered, is another tribute to the archive. The overblown floral prints are instinctively mixed, while embroideries move f rom eveningwear to outerwear. PAG E

40 5

A TRIBUTE TO THE ARCHIVE

THE STREET WITH ITS VARIED AND MAGMATIC HUMANITY

PAGE

4 0 6

THE PHYSICALITY AND SENSUALITY OF THE BODY

Reconnecting with the street, in the end, means touching the ground: wearing

boots,

flat

Valentino

Garavani Roman Stud sandals, and a re-edition of the snake sandal. A

single

macro

stud

cleanly-designed bags. PAG E

407

closes

the

P I E R P A O L O P I C C I O L I O F V A L E N T I N O

THE OVERBLOWN FLORAL PRINTS ARE INSTINCTIVELY MIXED

PAGE

4 0 8

E D

In the journey through space and time, one thing appears clearly: it is personal identity that creates the aesthetic, and evolves it by fragmenting it PAG E

40 9

WATCH THE VIDOE HERE

THE VICTORIA/TOMAS COLLECTIONS ARE ENTIRELY MADE UP OF REVERSIBLE SILHOUETTES. Each item is made up of two completely different style propositions: on one side, a basic piece for everyday life, inspired by workwear codes and the simplicity of

the

masculine

wardrobe;

the

other,something a little more creative with feminine details, like intricate embroideries or flowing silk sleeves. Each piece of clothing becomes

double,

allowing

switch

between styles depending on the mood or the occasion.

Each item is made up of two completely different style

A R T I S T I C

B E R Z I N S

VICTORIA/TOMAS

WATCH THE VIDOE HERE

411

TO SWITCH BETWEEN STYLES

w w w . v i c t o r i a t o m a s . c o m

EVERYTHING DIFFERENT, STYLED FOR COMFORT

LEFTOVER FABRICS, HAND KNITS FROM TORN GEORGETTE

412

PAGE

1 4

C R E A T I V E

D I R E C T O R : V I V I E N N E W E S T W O O D & A N D R E A S C O U R T E S Y O F V I V I E N N E W E S T W O O D

K R O N T H A L E R

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

AN ICONIC STYLE OF FASHION Thinking of Marilyn, focus on pencil skirts

PAGE

4 1 4

PAG E

1 51 5 4

A search for an expression

Shorts worn as suits with sexy jackets Lots of unisex, prints, rubber, white, black, some rose pink, reds. Transparent dress worn with cotton polo shirt: white organza. Hood extended down over breasts, worn like a bra. Cloak with double-breasted closure, worn as dress: white silk twill. Same cloak worn as coat: black towelling. Neru coat pyjama suit: crushed raspberry damask.

Man’s

zipped

burka

(showpiece): black stiff-bonded silk satin, black tulle. Shirt with hanging collar, 17th c: white silk satin. Dresses made from shawls. Hats trimmed with personal effects. PAGE

4 1 6

“I was thinking of a new beginning, but in order for this to happen you have to make space for it. This is what I have tried to do with this collection. Hopefully it will help me to reach new shores.” “Theatre is a search for an expression that is directly concerned with the quality of living and, in that search, one can find great purpose.” Peter Brook,

“I am very much looking forward to Vivienne wearing it. USE IT!”

PAG E

1 51 7 4

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

theatre director.

w w w . v i v i e n n e w e s t w o o d . c o m

#AKSS22

PAGE

4 1 8

Vivienne Westwood is one of the last independent global fashion companies in the world. At times thought provoking, this brand is about more than producing clothes and accessories. Westwood continues to capture the imagination, and raise awareness of environmental PAG E

41 9

and human rights issues. With a design record spanning over forty years, Vivienne Westwood is now recognized as a global brand and Westwood herself as one of the most influential fashion designers, and activists, in the world today.

LIGHTNESS TO IMPOSING VOLUMES

WEINSANTO THE LARGE ARCHED HEADDRESS BECOME DRESSES For this Spring Summer 22 season, Weinsanto is inspired by its Alsatian origins. The typical headdresses of the region, in particular the large arched headdress, become dresses, and traditional Alsatian facades inspire the shapes of the dresses. Kelsh is a traditional Alsatian fabric in red, black and beige and is revisited in pink and and purple, the designer’s favorite colors. Weinsanto has also collaborated with illustrator Clément Louis for this season’s print with Queentoide Queentoide is Weinsanto’s muse. The

collection

Weinsanto’s

421

showcases

technique

and

attention to detail, especially the

corsetry, she worked and pushed with new processes to give lightness to imposing volumes.

Weinsanto stays true to her style in the creation of her accessories, the bag of the season is inspired by the Alsatian dessert. The bag for the SS 2022 collections is inspired by the Alsatian dessert Kougelhof,

A t t e n t i o n t o D E TA I L

revisited in a giant volume.

For this new collection, Weinsanto has managed to combine her taste for the show harmoniously merged with the origins of her childhood.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE PAGE

4 22

PAG E

42 3

w w w . w e i n s a n t o . c o m

THE TASTE FOR THE SHOW HARMONIOUSLY MERGED WITH HER ORIGINS

The Summer 2022 collection is an anniversary one for WOS brand - ten years ago the brand’s history began with the Summer 2012 collection. The new collection vastly repeats the codes of the collections of different seasons from the beginning of the brand’s life - there are dressing gowns, slip dresses, pajamas suits, of a classic cut for the brand, as well as modiﬁed. The brand

A R T I S T I C

D I R E C T O R : A N D R E Y P H : P O P O V A M A R I A

A R T Y O M O V

has also brought back iconic elements such as ripped collars. It took a long time to create one of the prints in the collection; Andrey Artyomov photographed parts of it at the Ufa Museum of Archeology and Ethnography on his phone - this is a photo of fabrics found in excavations at the beginning of the 20th century, which was fragmentarily preserved. After that the brand’s designers collected them in one print, using the colors of the national Bashkir shawls. The second print consists of “watercolor” ﬂowers, redrawn from national aprons and scarves. The basis for the print is cotton covered with a silvery layer, so the pattern is shimmering, acquires a three-dimensional effect and the silhouettes of the dresses become more complex and interesting. The headscarf theme is seen in many items of the collection - Bashkir women wore a headscarf without

424 folding it to a corner, like Russian, but in a rectangle, and

this constructive line goes from the hoods of cropped

trench coats and fragments of scarves that seem to fall

on clothes to a square armhole and gusset. A fragment

of a scarf, the way it fell in a square over the ﬁgure, forming waves and folds, is used in dresses and gives

them a ballroom silhouette. The collection contains a vivid reference of the outﬁts of Bashkir pop stars of the early 2000s, with glitter, lurex, fringe, sequins.

WOS

The collection includes a cap with the original coat of arms of Ufa with a picture of a marten on a white fabric. The main colors of the collection: lilac, white, gray, blue, brown, violet - the palette is taken from the national Bashkir shawl, decomposed into colors.

traditional for the brand, fabrics with lurex, for the ﬁrst time laser cutting is used on the fabric in the form of the Bashkir kurai ornament on the edge of the items.

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

w w w . w o s b r a n d . c o

Collection fabrics: organic cotton, silk, linen, sequins,

XULY.BËT « With this Spring-Summer 2022 collection, I wanted to be radical, I wanted to come back to the quintessence of XULY.Bët. A quintessence that today has been purif ied.» For Lamine Badian Kouyaté, this Spring-Summer 2022

K O U Y A T É

collection is set to initiate an audacious direction for XULY.Bët and its approach to the new gen. In December 2020, Vogue US editor Laird Borrelli-Persson surprised the fashion community by reediting archive photos

A R T I S T I C

of one of XULY.Bët’s most emblematic collections: the famous XULY.Bët x PUMA collaboration. This the f irst time a sportswear brand and a prêt-à-porter house worked together and was the trigger of today’s new season in Lamine’s mind. The photos even moved the designer to the point that he again rediscovered the power of his beloved fabric: elastane lycra. The collaboration, dating back to 1995, still has much sense today in 2021. Modernity in mobility was then avant-garde. Today it’s essential. By drawing inspiration f rom the bright colors of the PUMA collection, Lamine Badian Kouyaté has dared to translate

This season also marks a turning point for XULY.

them through opaque fabrics this season. Upcycling still

Bët’s relaunch, initiated by Lamine Kouyaté

426 remains a priority for the designer: all the caleçons and

and Rodrigo Martinez. For their fourth season

cyclist shorts for example are snippets recovered f rom

on the Parisian Fashion Week calendar, they’ve

the floor that have been randomly reassembled and

joined forces with the BOON_PARIS showroom

connected with XULY.Bët’s characteristic red stitching.

which will be further developing the brand on

For XULY.Bët CEO, Rodrigo Martinez, « This season,

the European, American and Asian markets.

Lamine has reworked the “rough” look f rom XULY.Bët’s

To reach a new global clientele and further

early days - the idea of exhibiting work that appears to be

nourish XULY.Bët brand awareness, it was

simple but, in fact, is not. He’s injected a totally f resh and

essential to return to XULY.Bët’s roots, the

inventive approach to what he has always been known

visible stitching that has been the essence of

for. It’s def initely innovative ».

the brand since 1992.

The lookbook was photographed by Ismaël

cretize her modern version of West Side Story.

Moumin, Visual Art Director at XULY.Bët, who

Her unique point of view of always looking to

focused on a curated minimalism to glorify the

bring people closer together and f ight social

collection while maintaining the cool & casual

disparities is at the heart of XULY.Bët’s values.

attitude of the XULY.Bët woman.

For many years, Lamine Kouyaté and Rodrigo

Stylist & creative consultant Dan Sablon join

Martinez had been dreaming of working with

the team and brought his contemporary and

this unique artist in order to promote a dia-

functional vision to the SS22 collection. When

logue that is close to all their hearts: the inclu-

it comes to the f ilm « East Side Story » directed

sion of the periphery as a creative center and

by the brilliant Leïla Sy, produced by Barbara

talent pool. Leïla Sy wanted to converse with

Blanchard and her agency Black Artists Man-

XULY.Bët by bringing her convictions and her

agement in collaboration with La Daronne Pro-

deepness to create an artistic piece that will

duction, you see the will of the director to con-

resonate for years to come.

A TOTALLY FRESH AND INVENTIVE APPROACH

f r . x u l y b e t . c o m

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

w w w . y o h j i y a m a m o t o . c o . j p

For his return to the physical show at the Paris Fashion Week, Yohji Yamamoto presented a Spring/ Summer 2022 collection themed about the current global warming crises. Open necklines, bare arms, shoulders exposed and for the f irst time miniskirts appears on the runway. «I even showed a mini, my f irst time ever. It’s my response to global warming».

428

In order to face the climatic change, the collection is made with natural f ibers such as linen and cotton which brings lightness and a more casual spirit. For the Spring/Summer 2022 it’s a back to black with only few white and silver touches. The collection is focused on the shapes, and draping: «Black is fundamental to me. I don’t need help f rom color. All I need to do is cut.» Revisited trench coats, bustier dresses, cut-out leggings and long opening dresses are suggestions on what to wear for the upcoming hot summers. The f inale shows a trio of deconstructed crinolines, as wide as the runway itself, crisscrossed with metal bars. Beyond the collection, Yohji Yamamoto expresses his feelings by singing himself on the soundtrack of the show.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

NATURAL FIBERS

A RESPONSE TO GLOBAL WARMING

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

ZADIG&VOLTAIRE

w w w . z a d i g - e t - v o l t a i r e . c o m

An expression of a beautiful escape

Zadig&Voltaire’s heritage is one of nonchalant el-

430

egance, of a deep sense of freedom, of a liberated femininity. Saint-Tropez is the embodiment of this narrative, rooted in nature and party extravaganza. Cecilia Bönström speaks to women and men of today. In her spring/summer collection 2022, she addresses this desire for emancipation through the theme of THE ELEGANT COW-BOY.

Fine cashmeres, crinkled leather, oversized suits and sexy lingerie tell this story. The tailored silhouette exudes joy.

meets true authenticity. For this collection, Zadig&Voltaire revisits its iconic Rock clutch. With its vibrant colours and two sets of wings, the bag sets the tempo. Everything flows breezily. The clothes are never a constraint. On the contrary, they are an expression of a beautiful escape. A flight towards great horizons.

THE ELEGANT COW-BOY

WATCH THE VIDEO HERE

A f li g ht towards g re at ho rizons

Bare feet in the sand. Sleek sophistication