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UbudLife NO. 39 • JUNE - AUGUST 2019

guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine





Taksu Spa – in the heart of Ubud Here are six unbeatable reasons to drop by the gorgeous Taksu Spa at the start of your holiday: 1. No pain, just gain!

Welcome to Bali, it’s time for you to kick back and enjoy your Bali experience! Your time at Taksu will give you many great memories to share. Here you will enjoy a wide range of feel good and remedial massages, facial treatments, grooming, and body therapies. There are treatments for every member of your family, your party group or for that special occasion. Ideal after a long flight or a big night out! A Reflexology or foot massage is a great idea for rice field or ridge walkers, push bikers, stay-out-too-late-dancers or shoppers buying gifts. Foot massage helps prevent foot and ankle injuries, reduces headaches, and helps regulate blood pressure. For the regular Spa goers, try the Taksu signature Balinese Premium or Esalen massage. And if you are a beginner, or shy, try the Soother, a perfect head, neck & shoulder massage without oil or having to take your clothes off. Mineral baths also have great restorative benefits for those suffering from any of the above as well as low back pain, arthritis, fibromyalgia and osteoarthritis. Even something as simple as Aromatherapy has been reported to improve depression and insomnia.

2. Raw, Vegan, Vegetarian & Ala Carte Menu Enjoy a meal together! Taksu is the place you can take everyone no matter what their food and drink requirements are. The cool garden setting away from the busy roads is the perfect place to hangout. Try different taste sensations or choose from a list of favorites. Your taste buds will be happy. Voted #2 Raw food restaurant 2017.

4. Time out together in a jungle oasis in the heart of Ubud

What better way to say ‘I love you’ than spoiling each other? If there is one thing couples can agree on, you won’t say no to a day of pampering together. Enjoy full body massages, scrubs, flower or mineral baths with a scrumptious lunch or dinner. Romance Bali style.

5. Happy Mind & Happy Body – Over tired,

Gained some weight or feeling the years getting to you? From the Far Infra Red Sauna to clearing mental & physical blockages with Access Consciousness, Theta Healing, Ground Alpha Alignment, to understanding your Ayurvedic life balance. Try an immersive Sound Bath, sort out your thyroid or gut health with our Nutritionist/GP, learn or practice Yoga, get that long overdue Colonic or check out the new range of IV infusions for your total well-being. Take home specific information for your ongoing good health & happiness. Try the Taksu Wellness Programs.

6. And I’m Feeling Good – It’s all about the

experience. You’ll be telling your friends and family all about the amazing experience you had in Bali including Taksu Spa. Do something nice for yourself or surprise your partner with a Gift Certificate to use while you are in Ubud. This is a perfect gift for the person who has everything, or doesn’t want for anything. All the while knowing you are giving back to this beautiful tropical island and its people.

3. De-stress after work and play

Trying to balance work and life with today’s hectic lifestyle, it’s no wonder we area all stretched to our limits. It’s time to do something nice for yourself. So what do you do? Get back on track with a whole day Spa package, treating yourself from head to toe. You are worth it!

T: +62-361-479-2525 or +62-361-971-490 WA: +62 822 3613 0676 | Instagram: taksuspa FB Facebook: /TaksuUbudBali


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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu, and welcome to our new edition of Ubud Life. This issue covers Bali’s mid year high season so we hope you will find plenty of interest. This is the time when the weather is perfect and the streets are full of traffic, but head out from Ubud’s centre, perhaps join a retreat and enjoy Bali’s beauty rather than spend all your time in the streets. Spa and massage are easily available, as well as mani pedis, hairdressers and colourists, healers and yogis. Why not take advantage of all that Ubud has to offer. Restaurants of all cuisines – Indian, Mexican, Italian, Greek, Japanese and Balinese and Indonesian and not forgetting the extraordinary proliferation of vegetarian and vegan eateries that have popped up recently. Good food is easy to find and the only thing is to have enough time to try a selection. This issue we have the beguiling pix of photographer Luciana Ferrero, an avid lens lady who spends huge amounts of her time at ceremonies around the island. These pictures of a ceremony in a remote part of the island are especially interesting and it is only a very few foreigners who get to witness this. Please enjoy your time in Bali and if you are on a bike, drive carefully. Don’t let the holiday spirit go to your head – you could lose it. Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om


Cover photo by Luciana Ferrero This sweet girl is dressed and ready to take part in a traditional temple ceremony in her village in east Bali.

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editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contibutors richard horstman stephanie mee sharon karyasa ayu sekar publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: w: director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

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Lessen Your Travel Footprint by stephanie mee

are dropping at a rapid pace, and plastics are clogging the rivers and coastlines. We all contribute to the issues just by being here, but there are some steps you can take to travel more sustainably and lessen your environmental footprint. Travel Less

It doesn’t take much to see that Bali is currently facing some pretty serious environmental issues. With ever increasing numbers of tourists arriving on the island each month, rampant development is taking its toll. Rice fields are being razed to make way for hotels and villas, water table levels 14 UbudLife

It’s a nice idea to try to see as much of the island as you possibly can, but the more cars, buses and motorbike rides you take, the more carbon emissions you create. Plus, how can you really get to know a place if you only spend a day or two there? Take the time to immerse yourself in one spot. Walk or cycle to visit local shops, cafes and restaurants. If you want to explore a bit, visit places that are closer to where you are based. You’ll probably find that the less you travel, the more enriching your holiday will be. Use Public Transportation or Shared Rides When Possible

TRAVEL PLUS If you’ve ever been stuck in a Bali traffic jam, then you’ve witnessed first-hand the ridiculous and unnecessary amount of vehicles plying Bali’s roads, each burning fossil fuels and emitting noxious fumes into the air. One way you can avoid contributing to the problem is by taking public transport or share rides. The Kura Kura bus is a great option because fares are very reasonably priced and they have pick-up and drop-off points in key locations around the island. If you do have to take a car, try to find other travellers you can share the ride with.

Treat Your Hotel Like Your Home One of the biggest draws to staying in a hotel, villa or guesthouse is that you don’t have to worry about things like cleaning, electricity and water, so it’s easy to get carried away. A little bit of mindfulness can go a long way when it comes to reducing your impact. Think of your accommodation like you would your home and make an effort to turn off the lights, TV and air-con when you’re not using them, avoid getting clean towels or sheets if you don’t need them, and take shorter showers instead of baths.

Eat Locally Being the lush tropical island that it is, Bali has an abundance of fresh ingredients available, so there really is no need to eat imported products. After all, the further an item has to be flown or shipped, the more carbon emissions are created. Seek out restaurants that use local products like fresh Baligrown fruits and vegetables, local coconut oil, seafood caught offshore and meat from animals raised on farms in Bali or the neighbouring islands. If you really want to see local produce elevated to epic heights, book a table at Locavore -

Bring or Buy Your Own Eco-Friendly Products

Have you ever stopped to think about what goes into the products we use every day like soaps, shampoos and sunscreens? Many contain harsh chemicals that aren’t great for our bodies and get washed out into the rice paddies, rivers and oceans. Consider bringing your own natural products from home or buying green products here. Sensatia is a fabulous Bali brand that makes all-natural products that won’t harm your skin or the Earth. You can find shops all over the island.

Support Eco-friendly Businesses

Nowadays more Bali business owners are realising that they need to preserve the natural beauty that draws people to the island and that their customers want to be part a solution rather than a problem. Some things to look for in an eco-friendly business include green practices like recycling, solar energy, water usage reduction, zero or reduced waste and bans on single-use plastics. You can find a comprehensive list of eco-friendly Bali businesses on the BGreener website.

Cut Back on Your Plastic Usage It’s no secret that Bali has a huge plastic problem. While the government is taking steps to tackle the issue, there is still a long way to go. You can do your part by refusing to use single-use plastics whilst on the island. Bring your own reusable bags for shopping and don’t buy products wrapped in plastic. You can also bring your own refillable water bottle and download the RefillMyBottle app, which has an online map of places you can fill up your water bottle for free or a minimal fee. UbudLife 15

happenings around ubud

BALI’S FABOLOUS KITE FESTIVAL From the month of late May, the easterly winds start to blow, picking up strength over the next two months, until by August they are blowing at full strength. From August 15 – 18, these winds support the Bali International Kite Festival – an extravaganza of kites of all shapes and sizes, including the extraordinary Giant sized kites that cover half the sky. This festival that started off as a village rite to give thanks and supplication to the gods, to request healthy crops and a good harvest has grown way beyond its humble beginnings, although still respected. SO head to Padangalak to experience the best in kite flying. While other regional centres have impressive kite festivals, the Balinese just do it better. While international groups participate, it is the Balinese and their strong sense of community that make it so wonderful. Other festivals are held at Sanur during this thrilling season, but the Padangalak is the best to see. 16 UbudLife

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BALI ART FESTIVAL Arts festival – Come Sat June 15th, the Bali Arts Festival bursts onto the stage again. The opening day sees a massive parade around the streets of Puputan Square in Denpasar with lots of colourful costumes and some miraculous floats. Savvy photographers get there early to photo the folk while they are relaxing before the parade. The following weeks are a parade of the best of Bali’s cultural events all held in the Werdhi Budaya Art Centre in Denpasar. Be sure to attend at least a few events. Its mesmerizing. Bali Arts Festival June 15 til July 14th 2019

GALUNGAN Galungan is Bali’s favourite time of the year and here it comes again. From July 22nd til August the 3rd, Bali’s streets are awash with colourful penjors and lots of prayer ceremonies and at home feasting. It is the happiest time of the year for all Balinese and a visit to the villages is especially rewarding. In Ubud young boys parade the streets with makeshift barongs, dancing and collecting money for their banjars. They make the most adorable photos and happy to pose but don’t forget to offer them a few thousand rupiah. Its all in a good cause. 18 UbudLife

TENGANAN COMES ALIVE Bali’s most famous traditional Bali Aga village, the haunt of artists and photographers live a life filled with ritual and tradition. Every month of June, they really like to celebrate with a calendar with dance, ceremony and a host of visual extravaganzas. The month’s celebrations peak, on the 24 and 25 th of the month, culminating in two days of extraordinary activity as the parang pandan or pandan wars take place. Tenganan is just a couple of miles from Candidasa on the east coast, a comfortable drive from the south or of course a great place to stop for a day or two.

THE ELEPHANT PARK The Elephant Park celebrates - The well loved Bali Elephant Park recently celebrated its twenty years of existence with a day of celebration and special events at the Taro Park. From 1997, rescued Sumatran elephants have been rehomed and are living a comfortable existence within the confines of the Park. Visitors can take a ride and feed these perky pachaderms or even give them a good scrub in the pool. While no life can duplicate a wild life in the jungle, the animals here seem to live happily and everyone enjoys a visit.. UbudLife 19


by ayu sekar • images luciana ferrero

This ancient dance is sacred and few foreigners ever see it. It is an ancient ritual dedicated to Dewi Sri, the goddess of fertility and prosperity and she reigns over the rice fields, even until today. The dance harkens back to long before the invasion of the Majapahit from Java and has its roots deep in mysticism and animism, existing even before the Hindu religion came to Bali.

It is rarely performed except in a few remote parts of the island, mostly in Karengasam. If you ever get a chance to see it, prepare to be amazed as young prepubescent girls in a fully tranced state are carried aloft on tall poles. It is a part of magical Bali that is fast disappearing.

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Investing in Balinese traditional art? Now is the right time. by richard horstman

Within the sphere of Indonesian art, Balinese traditional art is a small niche market. It has recently, however, witnessed positive developments, and this progression, both in its appreciation and valuation, is leading to increasing national and international popularity.


he rapid evolution of information technology has led to greater access to knowledge about Balinese art, along with the publishing of more quality art books. Recent developments within the Bali art infrastructure, and the fact that experts believe the market is undervalued, with strong future growth potential, point to now being an excellent time to buy Balinese traditional art as an investment.

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The dynamics leading to Balinese art being underappreciated and undervalued has been due to its perception. Within world art Balinese art has been maligned, often referred to as ‘tourist’ and folk art - a craft without a legitimate place in Indonesian art history. Some of its finest practitioners, however, were, and are today, from the Balinese high castes therefore, it is not an art form exclusive to the common people. The leading artists nowadays are in a life long, ‘sacred’ pursuit dedicated to reaching new levels of technical skill and aesthetic mastery. 32 UbudLife

Initially collected and exhibited in anthropological museums of the Netherlands, and not in the renowned art museums of Europe, it was presented with a demeaning colonial narrative, referred to as art made by primitive people. This is situation, however, has recently undergone change. The institutions with the most important collections of Balinese art have been rebranded – renamed Museums of World Culture. From now on it will be presented free from the old narratives, given special curatorial attention to its importance, while being exhibited with the highest technological standards. UbudLife 33

This will impact positively upon its perception and appreciation internationally, and within Indonesia. During the past twelve years Jakarta auctioneers Larasati have been tireless promoters of Balinese traditional art. 2018 marks the tweleth year of its Bali auctions, held twice yearly in Ubud. Larasati’s website provides sale data from past auctions, information, and access to online live bidding. Market data reveals strong growth for Ubud painter A.A Gde Anom Sukawati, if you purchased a work in 2003 for about USD 2,000 – 3,000, it can be sold at auction in 2016 at about USD 23,000. Similarly if you invested USD 2,000 – 3,0000 in 2003 on a masterpiece by Ida Bagus Putu Sena, it sold at auction in 2012 for about USD 14,000. The major change maker on the Balinese art landscape is the TiTian Bali Art Foundation, located in Ubud. Open in 2016, and specializing in identifying, and nurturing emerging talent and introducing the best artists to the market. During 2017 TiTian presented some of the finest artists from the renowned school of Batuan painting. Wayan Budiarta, Wayan Aris Sarmanta (winner of the 2018 TiTian Prize), Pande I Made Dwi Artha and Gede Widyantara are young talents on the rise. Six paintings by two of these talents were purchased by Museums of World Culture and soon will be exhibited in the Netherlands. Each year a new sector of world art comes under the auctioneers spotlight at Christie’s and Sotheby’s. In 2017 it was African art - the market response was increased demand, and new record prices. It is inevitable that more international collectors will turn their attention here due to the quality art at cheap prices. Could Balinese traditional art be one of the next booming markets?

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Buying the right art requires some know how. Here are some tips for new collectors: • Do your research and learn as much

as possible through books and online information.

• Visit museums, galleries, auctions, artist’s

studios, and exhibitions. Immerse yourself in art in order to train your eye.

• Get to know collectors and the experts. Seek out advice while learning about the industry.

• The best investment is with the emerging artists. Their works are cheaper and have a great potential for increasing in value and leading to future gains.

• Identify potential future masters by self-

research and scouting, or align yourself with artist incubators.

• Invest early on masterpieces by the potential future masters.

• Think long term and hold for at least 5 –10 years to wait for the market to mature for profit making.

• Works at auction often sell for prices much lower than that at galleries, or the artist’s studio.

• When buying at an auction set the price that you are not prepared to go above.

• There are still many Balinese works,

often treasures, that remain forgotten, or unrecognized, which are stored away, and are yet to find their way onto the market.

• Young talent is thriving in the villages of Batuan, Keliki and Ubud and these important genres are in exciting new eras of development, driven by well-organized art collectives. • Look out for the Larasati auction previews published online in the Jakarta Post.


Fast Track to Success on The Highway by ayu sekar

Highway is a one stop shop for all the legal needs you may want in Bali. If you need to buy a house, invest in a property, if you need protection for your investment or if you need to legalise your stay in the country, Highway can help you. Directed by Ibu Wiwik Pratiwi who took over the business when her late husband passed away last year, she has taken over the reins very competently! Professional service in air conditioned comfort is what yo can expect. Everyone speaks good English and service comes with a smile. Even if you want something as simple as nice photocopies or to use their fast internet, on one of their computors and comfortable chairs. Highway has it on hand. And if you need sustenance while you work, a cappuccino, or light snack can be ordered in.

The office is handily located in the eastern end of Jl Raya Ubud, not far from the BCA Bank and you cant miss it. For newcomers and old comers alike, having someone you can trust to help you navigate the pitfalls of power and legal matters makes life a lot easier. They are also the agents for an international healthcare agency. Another problem solved! Highway, Main Road Ubud T: 0361 972 107 or 972 569 UbudLife 37

Safekeeping Bali’s Animals by stephanie mee

It’s not easy being an animal in Bali, or Southeast Asia for that matter. Furry, feathered and finned creatures aren’t always given much love and respect in this part of the world and many end up neglected, mistreated or, even worse, part of the illegal wildlife trade. Fortunately there are a few organisations in Bali that are dedicated to protecting and caring for animals that need a helping hand.

Bali Wildlife Rescue Centre The Bali Wildlife Rescue Centre’s mission is to rescue, rehabilitate and release endangered animals and birds that have been confiscated from poachers, private homes and markets. Located in Tabanan and run by Friends of the National Parks Foundation, the centre cares for over 70 animals including rare birds, primates and reptiles. Funds go towards medicine, food and, if possible, relocation and release of the animals. However, some of the animals are too disabled or traumatised to be released back into the wild and will live the rest of their lives in the centre. You can help by fostering an animal, donating money or tools and volunteering.

Bali Animal Welfare Association Founded in 2007, BAWA is dedicated to saving, protecting and improving the lives of animals in Bali. They focus mainly on distressed street dogs, but their 24-hour hotline will respond to reports of any animal in trouble. The 24-hour ambulance provides emergency response and rescue, and they have fully trained vets, vet nurses and 40 UbudLife

assistants to provide medication and help ehabilitate animals so they can go into the fostering and adoption programme. With support from donors, they also offer free vaccination and sterilisation programmes and run intensive education and animal advocacy programmes.

Bali Starling Conservation Project The Bali starling is the emblem bird of Bali, but the chances of seeing one in the wild are extremely slim because poaching has drastically reduced the population and put the species on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. The Bali Starling Conservation Project was created by Friends of the National Parks Foundation to bring these birds back from the brink of extinction. Working closely with communities in Nusa Penida, they established the Bali Bird Sanctuary where they now rehabilitate, release and breed these unique birds. You can support them by adopting a Bali starling to be rehabilitated and released.

HAVE A HEART aims to protect sea turtles and their habitats. The BSTS team rescues and releases turtles that have been poached, runs a protected hatchery for sea turtle eggs, and works with local coastal communities to raise awareness about conservation. You can help by donating money or items on their wish list.

Villa Kitty Foundation

Bali Dog Adoption Rehabilitation Centre When Linda Buller arrived in Bali in 1985, she was shocked by the number of emaciated dogs she saw on the streets. After relocating to the island, she started taking in sick dogs at her home, but soon realised that something more needed to be done. The Bali Dog Adoption Rehabilitation Centre opened in 2006 with a mission to relieve the suffering of Bali street dogs. The shelter now provides a refuge for sick and mistreated dogs and the clinic offers medical treatment, vaccinations and sterilisation services. BARC also runs a fostering and adoption programme to helps dogs find a forever home. Virtual adoptions are possible and donations are always welcome.

Bali Sea Turtle Society Out of the seven existing species of sea turtles, six can be found in Indonesian waters. Here in Bali there are numerous beaches that are natural habitats for sea turtles. Sadly though, the island has long been a centre for sea turtle trading. The Bali Sea Turtle Society is a non-profit organization that

Villa Kitty started in 2009 as a tiny adjunct to an already existing dog shelter, but as more injured and abandoned cats arrived, it quickly grew into its own entity. Located in Lotunduh, the centre now shelters over 150 cats and kittens in various wings including a ‘retirement village’ for older cats, a nursery for kittens and a quarantine area for sick cats. Qualified vets are on hand to attend to injured animals and provide vaccinations and sterilisations. Visitors are welcome to come play with the cats and look into adoption options. The centre runs entirely on donations to help provide food, shelter and fund staff wages.

Bali Sharks Rescue Center It’s bad enough that sharks get a bad rap for being vicious creatures, but the high prices of shark fins and shark meat also make them a prime target for fishermen. Bali Sharks Rescue Centre is a conservation nursery and sanctuary for rescued sharks that ended up in fishermen’s nets or were poached for the aquarium trade. To date, the centre has saved over 250 sharks and when possible released them into protected waters. Visitors can support BSRC efforts by joining a marine ecotour where they can feed and visit the sharks underwater or by donating to the Shark Rescue Fund or Adopt-a-Shark programme. UbudLife 41

Setia Ceramic & Arts made to order

BALI FREE MAP We reach across the island - everywhere in bali! make your advertising dollar go further and be seen on our complete big BALI MAP! email:

Studio Setia Jalan Sriwedari Br. Tegallantang No.59 - Ubud Gallery Setia Jalan Goutama No.22 Br. Padangtegal Kaja - Ubud

INFO TEL: 081353320709 or [0361] 8495479

Kicking Back at Korurua by ayu sekar

High up on the north road out of Ubud, past the now defunct Botanical Gardens in Jl. Tirta Tawar, lies the beautiful Korurua Retreat. This quiet and special little resort looks over a secluded valley with verdant views of green and distant rice fields. Currently, Korura is a small property, although plans for expansion are underway. But right now it is small and sweet. Every detail has been attended to and the scrupulously clean property is well built with dozens of cute Balinese and Javanese details to delight the eye. Rooms are large without being overwhelming and the indoor/outdoor bathrooms come complete with big bathtubs, ready to be filled with flowers, candles and

ready to be filled with flowers, candles and incense. To bathe in this delightful space would be an enchantment. It is a special place for a honeymoon while giving a true Bali experience. Days can be as busy or as quiet as you choose and the staff do their best to fulfill your wishes. If you need a romantic dinner, it is no problem to arrange. There are several locations that are perfect for a little romantic fantasy and each room has their own private balcony as well. The menu is small and well thought out with a leaning towards vegetarian, but with enough meat and Balinese dishes to make it appealing. A small menu means that food is fresh and what can be better! All in All it’s a lovely gem of a place. Drop by! UbudLife 45


words and images ayu sekar

ADIT the Barong Dancer This is Adit and he is around nine years old. He has been dancing since he picked up his first barong head when he was about four. Coming from a family of artists and artisans, he grew up with Balinese dance in his blood and now he dances at temple ceremonies as a consummate professional, enthralling the audience with his skills.

ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm


legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm


kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm


barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

tue mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance


ubud cultural dance performances

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pura protocol Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples


s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously. Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy! The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless. When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful. Women who are menstruating must wait outside. Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo. If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing. Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself. UbudLife 51



Kayma Spa

Setia Ceramic


Gedong Sisi

Sang Spa

Om Ham Retreat

Nature Resort





Pizza Bagus Kafe Topi

Monkey Legend

Garden Sopa


UBUD LOCATION Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades. Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers. Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!


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Provincial capital


Places of interest





Pemuteran Reef Building

Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

Labuhan lalang






a B e a ch



Bestala Mayong Busungbiu


Mt. Mesehe 1344


Pangkungdedari Melaya


Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386




Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)



Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang

Secret Bay


LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi



Tambling Mund




Pupuan Pujungan Mt








Cupel Munduk


Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h




Manggissari Asahduren

Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah





DISTANCE [in kilometer]






Balian Beach


Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban

























Padang Sulub



Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji



ran Panji


Jagaraga Bila





Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les


Pegayaman Gitgit



Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa



Bantang Penulisan


Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti




T ul a



Pengotan Penyebah







Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

Jemeluk Bunutan

Pempatan Buyan


Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus


Mt. Agung 3142




Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Nungkung

t. Batukaru Pacung 2276 l Soka Jatiluwih Senganan




Lake Batur

y n Ba

Candi Kuning

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya



gan duk


Mt. Batur Batur 1717


Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan




Bakungan Penginyahan




Surfing spots

Diving spots




Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan


Penebel Perean Pitra

Sulahan Singarata


h ac









Ferry to N usa Pe nida





a Dua Beac












50 km

mount agung eruption | may18, 2019 • images karangvision


Our visit to the Holy Mountain by sharon karyasa • images karangvision photo

2017 saw me spend a significant time researching Mount Agung, our active volcano whom I affectionately named The Big Fella.


cience is not my strong point, and quite frankly the technical compositions that make up our Big Fella sound like gibberish to me, but since then I have learned that Mount Agung is a strato-volcano or composite volcano, and this type is amongst the most powerful of all volcanos. The eruptions from these composite volcanos may be a pyroclastic flow, rather than a flow of - a superheated mixture of hot steam, ash, rock and dust which can travel down the sides of a volcano at very high speeds, at temperatures of over 400’C! These composite volcanoes can rise to over 8000 feet. Bali’s Holy Mountain awoke on December 30, 2018 and again on January 10, 2019 after being asleep for an entire five months during the series of earthquakes that hit Lombok, beginning in July last year 2017.

In a Press Release on March 17, 2019 The Center for Volcanology and Geological Disaster Mitigation of the Geological Agency, Ministry of Energy and Mineral Recourses, said that after 54 years the holy Mount Agung had began his eruption on November 2017 and that activities are still happening.

Devy K Syahbana, the PVMBG's head of Eastern Region Volcano Mitigation Subdivision said in January that Mount Agung had returned to its eruption phase before the Lombok Earthquake, further adding a satellite report by the Volcanic Ash Advisory Centre (VAAC) in Darwin which explained that Bali's Mount Agung eruption spewed volcanic ash reaching more than 2,000 meters from its summit, or about 5,400 meters above sea level.

A few weeks back I made a holy pilgrimage to Pura Besakih Temple with my husband and niece to honour our five ancestral deities. Although the possibility of an eruption at any time, was always present, masses of Balinese were making this holy pilgrimage on the same day. In fact it seemed that Bali’s entire Pasek clan had decided to venture out to pay their respects in spite of the imminent dangers. Although the possibility of an eruption was on my mind, as we waited for UbudLife 57

day we made our pilgrimage it seemed as though all of Bali was there. This year a very special ceremony was taking place, known as Panca Wali Krama, a complicated process to give gratitude to the Gods, which only occurs once every ten years and this Panca Wali Krama is the second largest ritual that happens at Pura Besakih, after Eka Dasa Rudra, which is held once every 100 years.

three hours in a human traffic jam to reach our ancestral temple, I remembered my faith and felt honored to be part of such an auspicious spiritual journey. When we eventually reached our clan’s temple known as Pura Pedarman Ratu Pasek, I felt as though I had been given a gift of life. The congregation was relieved as they unloaded their heavy offerings, lit their incense and sat down in front of the shrines, waiting to pray, and finally, to be blessed by the Mangku with holy water and bija (rice blessings). This significant event was meaningful for everyone, especially as we all returned unscathed. Besakih Temple, the Island’s mother temple, sits 1,000 metres up the south-western slope of our Mt Agung. The temple complex is made up of over 86 temples and on the 58 UbudLife

It was during the Eka Dasa Rudra celebration in 1963 that the mighty Mount Agung erupted, and miraculously the temple survived the devastating eruption at that time. Although the possibility of an eruption was on my mind, as we waited for three hours in a human traffic jam to reach our ancestral temple, I remembered my faith and felt honored to be part of such an auspicious spiritual journey. For me the most significant aspect is the way the Balinese take it all in their stride, continuing to live in the moment. After we returned from the temple, all the women joined together in an aerobics class. Since our pilgrimage, Mt Agung has erupted several more times, although they continue to be small, but significant and Bali remains safe to visit and be in.


SereS Resort & Resort Jl. Jukut Paku, Singekerta, Ubud Phone: 0361 3012222

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976466 Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Hand phone: 081 339 339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792888 CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 Liap Liap Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 Folk Pool Gardens Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 Gedong Sisi Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 977276 Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 0361 973472 Haii Made Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 973302

Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803801

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 B.Saya Villa and Restaurant Jl. Suweta, Ubud Phone: 0361 973496 Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 Korurua Jl. Tirta Tawar, Junjungan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000496 Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Junjungan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 Puri Gangga Resort Desa Sebatu, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 902222 Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328

KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 Monkey Legend Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0361 981611 Nomas Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080800 Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978520 Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 Sayuri Healing Food Jl. Sukma 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080385 Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 VELVET Jl. Raya Lungsiakan, Ubud Phone: +62 813 98625483 Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Hand phone: 081 239 655905 Why Not Restaurant & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 9081601 Yonne Cafe & Bar SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 UbudLife 59



PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 0361 970980

Sang Spa Jl. Jembawan No. 13B, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080051

Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119

Bodyworks Centre Jl. Raya Hanoman no. 25, Ubud Phone: 0361 975720

Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050

Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

Taksu Galleria Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792508

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Hand phone: 085 100 126053

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Made Lebah, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197

Cocoon Medical Spa Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Hand phone: 0811 3882241 FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 Kayma Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792239, 0851 00620017 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Sri Ratih Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 Sala Japan Beauty Care Jl. Jembawan 1, Padang Tegal, Ubud Phone: 0361 977803 Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490

60 UbudLife

Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Hand phone: 081 236 51809


CERAMICS Setia Ceramics & Arts Jl. Raya Goutama 22, Padangtegal, Ubud Phone: 081 337 809006

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Hand phone: 085 103 235151 SISI Jl. Sriwedari No.12, Ubud Hand phone: 085 100765895 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Hand phone: 085 100801879

ARTISTS Wayan Suarmadi [Painter] Jl. Made Lebah, Ubud Mobile: 081 338 730435 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Bali Silent Retreat Banjar Mongan, Penatahan, Penebel, Tabanan, Bali Ojas Prana Jl. Tirta Tawar, Banjar Junjungan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9083712 Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 0361 971236



Mason Adventures Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480

Airport Authority

Ubud Horse Stables Phone: +6281 3395 85666

VISA/LEGAL AFFAIRS HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074 Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338 Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

Bali Police Department


Directory Inquiries


Fire Brigade




International Red Cros


Post Office Search and Rescue

Puri Sunny Hotel and Camping

118 751011

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital


Tourist information Center


Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

NORTH BALI SECTION Amertha Bali Villas Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 94831 Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Puri Sunny Hotel and Camping Munduk Village, Buleleng Phone/Whatsapp: +6285 7372 16669 The Hamsa Resort Munduk Village, Buleleng Phone: +62 813 3719 4975 Taman Sari Bali Resort and Spa Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 93264, 94765

EAST BALI SECTION Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359





Czech Republic


Denmark & Norway














Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493





Sweden & Finland


Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539






233605 UbudLife 61


Every breath you take Mark Ulyseas

This is not in praise of the fabulous aromatic durian. Nor is it about unrequited love. It is about returning to the past, to breathe the air of dreams. Dreams that had been cocooned in an imaginary recollection of the past replete with sights, sounds and the fatal kiss. Recently I returned to an old haunt. Met a few familiar faces and broke bread with a friend. The past played truant. And in its place were strangely lit shops that ran along the once serene tree-lined road like a gaudy necklace. The gamelan echoed in the nearby banyan tree whilst shadows were banished by the raucous crowds of tourists. There was no sadness. No pain. No anger. No hate. Just the numbness of not ‘being’. Of not belonging to the moment one last time. What was it all for? The manic writings scrawled across the pages of a local newspaper. The inebriation of the ‘self ’ washed clean by the many monsoons and replaced by another ‘life’ alien to the past and yet in harmony with the rhythms of one’s breath.

Every breath that you take is one step away from the present, and closer to the iridescent past. I shall leave you now with this quote from ‘Memoirs of a Geisha’ by Arthur Golden — “Sometimes,” he sighed, “I think the things I remember are more real than the things I see.” Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

Perhaps there is much to be learnt from bridging the present to the past on a physical plain, where one can view the landscape without the immersion in passion. A charming reluctance to accept the inevitable — that all life changes — hoovers in the background. A disingenuous reality then takes over to carpet the emotive aspects, a sound proofing of sorts. Like an astronaut floating in space. Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, Free online magazine from village earth.

62 UbudLife


Presenting fine art quality of paintings and as a painting studio of I Wayan Suarmadi ADDRESS: JALAN MADE LEBAH, UBUD, GIANYAR, BALI PHONE: 62 361 978197 | MOBILE & WA: 62 81 338730435 EMAIL: WAYANSUARMADI75 @ GMAIL.COM WWW.PILARBATU.COM

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