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PROFILE

Tutima Glashütte Tutima's new Hommage Minute Repeater watch

After 66 years, Germany’s Tutima stages a triumphant return to its hometown, Glashütte.

UTIM GOES HO E BY JOE THOMPSON

114 WatchTime October 2011


PROFILE

Tutima Glashütte Tutima's new Hommage Minute Repeater watch

After 66 years, Germany’s Tutima stages a triumphant return to its hometown, Glashütte.

UTIM GOES HO E BY JOE THOMPSON

114 WatchTime October 2011


PROFILE

Tutima Glashütte

Tutima’s new manufacture in Glashütte is on the same street as A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original.

n May 7, 1945, with the German Army routed and Russian troops storming toward Glashütte, the watchmaking village in Saxony near Germany’s eastern border, Ernst Kurtz fled the town. Kurtz was the founder and head of Glashütte’s largest watch company, UROFA/UFAG, whose most important brand was Tutima. In the previous weeks, in an effort to save his company, Kurtz had transferred stocks of watch movements and cases from Glashütte to Bavaria in the American-controlled south. The next day, May 8, Germany surrendered and the war ended. But the night before, in one of the last air raids of the war, the Russians bombed Glashütte, destroying much of the town, including watch factories and the home of Ernst Kurtz.

Kurtz, and Tutima, left Glashütte for good. Later that year, Kurtz resumed watchmaking in Memmelsdorf in Bavaria. In 1951 he moved the operation to Ganderkesee, near Bremen in northwest Germany. There, in the mid-1950s, he resurrected the Tutima brand. Unlike many Glashütte watch brands, Tutima not only survived the ravages of war, it prospered, thanks to Dieter Delecate, whom Kurtz hired in 1954. For the past 51 years, Delecate has owned and operated Tutima Uhrenfabrik in Ganderkesee. Delecate knew Kurtz well. “The Tutima brand meant much to Dr. Kurtz,” Delecate says. “He viewed his post-war career in West Germany as a form of exile.” After all, it was in Glashütte — which was cut off from the West when the communist German Democratic Republic was formed in 1949 — that Kurtz created the Tutima brand as Glashutte’s first and finest wristwatch. It was there that Tutima got

its enduring identity as an aviators’ watch. Now the exile is over. On May 12, Delecate, his son, Jörg, and daughter, Ute, both executives in the family business, officially inaugurated a new Tutima manufacture at Altenberger Strasse 6 in the center of Glashütte, just a stone’s throw from the site of the former UROFA/UFAG factory where the brand was born. After 66 years, Tutima is back home. That day Tutima unveiled the first watch produced in the new manufacture. Delecate wanted the first timepiece to itself be a first, something that would stand as a tribute to Glashütte’s tradition of high mechanical watchmaking, to Tutima’s roots in the city, and to his mentor and Tutima’s founder, Ernst Kurtz. He wanted something that would be, as he put it, “news even for the Mecca of fine German watchmaking.” The result is the Tutima Hommage Minute Repeater, the first full minute repeater ever made in Glashütte — indeed, the first minute repeater in the history of German watchmaking. Three years in the making, the watch is the fruit of Tutima Glashütte’s technical team, headed by Rolf Lang, a master watchmaker with 47 years of experience and an expert on Glashütte’s watchmaking tradition. Lang himself designed the Hommage and made sure that it incorporated a number of elements distinctive to Glashütte (see sidebar). The watch’s hand-wound movement has more than 550 parts, each of which was handfinished in the manufacture. Tutima will produce 25 Hommage watches, 20 with rose-gold cases ($244,000) and five with platinum cases ($259,000). Five of the rose-gold pieces and the five platinum pieces are skeleton watches. All of them carry the Tutima logo with the new designation “Glashütte/SA.” (The “SA” is short for “Saxony.”) TUTIMA EXECUTIVES are quick to point out that the Hommage Minute Repeater is intended as a “wow” watch. It does not represent a change of direction for the brand. Tutima has been known for pilots’ watches for more than 70 years, starting with the Flieger Chrono-

“THIS DAY HAS A SPECIAL MEANING FOR ME. A DAY FULL OF PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE.” — TUTIMA OWNER DIETER DELECATE

graph of the 1940s, which Kurtz’s UROFA/UFAG made for the German Air Force. Tutima will remain true to its identity as a watch for professionals (aviation, diving, yachting, etc.). It did not return to Glashütte to compete with its Altenberger Strasse neighbors, A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original, in the production of complicated mechanical watches. “This is a celebration, a message,” Gustavo Calzadilla, CEO of Tutima USA, says of the Hommage. “This is a statement that we have the ability to do

just about anything. We are a real manufacture and this is the proof. But this is not the direction that we are going to go into full time.” The ever-discreet Delecate offers no details about what products will come next. (He kept his surprising minute repeater a secret for three years!) But Tutima’s direction is clear. The return to Glashütte will enable the company to elevate the quality of its products and the image of the brand and to occupy a unique niche in German watchmaking: October 2011 WatchTime 117


PROFILE

Tutima Glashütte

Tutima’s new manufacture in Glashütte is on the same street as A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original.

n May 7, 1945, with the German Army routed and Russian troops storming toward Glashütte, the watchmaking village in Saxony near Germany’s eastern border, Ernst Kurtz fled the town. Kurtz was the founder and head of Glashütte’s largest watch company, UROFA/UFAG, whose most important brand was Tutima. In the previous weeks, in an effort to save his company, Kurtz had transferred stocks of watch movements and cases from Glashütte to Bavaria in the American-controlled south. The next day, May 8, Germany surrendered and the war ended. But the night before, in one of the last air raids of the war, the Russians bombed Glashütte, destroying much of the town, including watch factories and the home of Ernst Kurtz.

Kurtz, and Tutima, left Glashütte for good. Later that year, Kurtz resumed watchmaking in Memmelsdorf in Bavaria. In 1951 he moved the operation to Ganderkesee, near Bremen in northwest Germany. There, in the mid-1950s, he resurrected the Tutima brand. Unlike many Glashütte watch brands, Tutima not only survived the ravages of war, it prospered, thanks to Dieter Delecate, whom Kurtz hired in 1954. For the past 51 years, Delecate has owned and operated Tutima Uhrenfabrik in Ganderkesee. Delecate knew Kurtz well. “The Tutima brand meant much to Dr. Kurtz,” Delecate says. “He viewed his post-war career in West Germany as a form of exile.” After all, it was in Glashütte — which was cut off from the West when the communist German Democratic Republic was formed in 1949 — that Kurtz created the Tutima brand as Glashutte’s first and finest wristwatch. It was there that Tutima got

its enduring identity as an aviators’ watch. Now the exile is over. On May 12, Delecate, his son, Jörg, and daughter, Ute, both executives in the family business, officially inaugurated a new Tutima manufacture at Altenberger Strasse 6 in the center of Glashütte, just a stone’s throw from the site of the former UROFA/UFAG factory where the brand was born. After 66 years, Tutima is back home. That day Tutima unveiled the first watch produced in the new manufacture. Delecate wanted the first timepiece to itself be a first, something that would stand as a tribute to Glashütte’s tradition of high mechanical watchmaking, to Tutima’s roots in the city, and to his mentor and Tutima’s founder, Ernst Kurtz. He wanted something that would be, as he put it, “news even for the Mecca of fine German watchmaking.” The result is the Tutima Hommage Minute Repeater, the first full minute repeater ever made in Glashütte — indeed, the first minute repeater in the history of German watchmaking. Three years in the making, the watch is the fruit of Tutima Glashütte’s technical team, headed by Rolf Lang, a master watchmaker with 47 years of experience and an expert on Glashütte’s watchmaking tradition. Lang himself designed the Hommage and made sure that it incorporated a number of elements distinctive to Glashütte (see sidebar). The watch’s hand-wound movement has more than 550 parts, each of which was handfinished in the manufacture. Tutima will produce 25 Hommage watches, 20 with rose-gold cases ($244,000) and five with platinum cases ($259,000). Five of the rose-gold pieces and the five platinum pieces are skeleton watches. All of them carry the Tutima logo with the new designation “Glashütte/SA.” (The “SA” is short for “Saxony.”) TUTIMA EXECUTIVES are quick to point out that the Hommage Minute Repeater is intended as a “wow” watch. It does not represent a change of direction for the brand. Tutima has been known for pilots’ watches for more than 70 years, starting with the Flieger Chrono-

“THIS DAY HAS A SPECIAL MEANING FOR ME. A DAY FULL OF PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE.” — TUTIMA OWNER DIETER DELECATE

graph of the 1940s, which Kurtz’s UROFA/UFAG made for the German Air Force. Tutima will remain true to its identity as a watch for professionals (aviation, diving, yachting, etc.). It did not return to Glashütte to compete with its Altenberger Strasse neighbors, A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original, in the production of complicated mechanical watches. “This is a celebration, a message,” Gustavo Calzadilla, CEO of Tutima USA, says of the Hommage. “This is a statement that we have the ability to do

just about anything. We are a real manufacture and this is the proof. But this is not the direction that we are going to go into full time.” The ever-discreet Delecate offers no details about what products will come next. (He kept his surprising minute repeater a secret for three years!) But Tutima’s direction is clear. The return to Glashütte will enable the company to elevate the quality of its products and the image of the brand and to occupy a unique niche in German watchmaking: October 2011 WatchTime 117


PROFILE

Tutima Glashütte

Left: Tutima has revived the 19th-century Glashütte tradition of polishing parts on tin plates. Below, left: Technical director Rolf Lang (bottom right of photo) and colleagues assembling movements

mechanical sports watches with in-house movements. Soon, Tutima executives say, Tutima will introduce new Glashüttemade movements for the regular line. In the pipeline, for example, are movements for the Tutima Military Chronograph 798, known as the NATO chronograph (it’s the official watch of NATO pilots), which Tutima has supplied to the German Army since 1985. Until now, the watch has been powered by the legendary Lemania 5100 chronograph movement, which Tutima obtained from the Swatch Group. In 2004, the Swatch Group ceased manufacturing the 5100. When the Swatch Group announced that it would discontinue the movement, Tutima stocked up on it, but its supply of Lemania 5100s runs out this year. The plan is to replace the 5100 with its own inhouse movement. Tutima’s transformation from movement purchaser to movement producer inevitably will elevate its image and its prices. Calzadilla estimates that prices, which start today at $1,500, will roughly double, with the core collection ranging from about $3,000 to below $10,000, with gold pieces priced higher. Tutima expects that its repositioning as a Germanengineered, German-made, manufacture watch will attract new customers (and some new retailers) to the brand. It will require some adjustments on the part of Tutima and its retailers, but nothing dramatic, Calzadilla says. Over the past four years, in anticipation of the brand’s impending manufacture status, he has reduced his retail network in the United States by nearly half, so that the brand is poised for a smooth transition. TUTIMA GLASHÜTTE, as the new manufacture is called, is housed in a newly renovated, three-story, white-walled building, which formerly was Glashütte’s 118 WatchTime October 2011


PROFILE

Tutima Glashütte

Rolf Lang explaining the intricacies of the Hommage Caliber 800

train station. Delecate purchased the building in 2005. It took three years to renovate it and turn it into a watch factory with all the equipment needed to produce watch movements, from movement design to final assembly. (“The only thing we cannot do,” says Lang, “is the hairspring.” Tutima Glashütte, like almost everyone else, gets those from Nivarox in Switzerland.) In 2008, Lang began assembling a team of watch veterans and apprentices, 20 in all. (The latest veteran is product manager Mathias Elbe, recently arrived from Glashütte Original, across the street.) Lang is an authority on the Saxon style of watchmaking; for years he was the head of restoration at the State Mathematics-Physics Salon in nearby Dresden. Whenever possible, he uses traditional local techniques in the factory. One example is finishing. “Our steel parts have to be finished by hand,” he explains. “We do finishing on a tin plate. It’s an old technology that we are bringing back to Glashütte.” He has trained four women in the technique. For polishing, Tutima Glashütte uses the socalled “Glashütte black” process, using a diamond paste that makes the angles appear black. Job one for the new team was the de120 WatchTime October 2011

velopment and production of the Hommage watch, which was created from scratch, no small feat for a new manufacture. Now it’s on to new movements for Tutima’s standard collections. Currently Tutima Glashütte only makes movements; watch assembly remains in Ganderkesee. However, Delecate says, “Sooner or later Tutima will move to Glashütte completely.”

IT WAS IN GLASHÜTTE THAT TUTIMA GOT ITS ENDURING IDENTITY AS AN AVIATORS’ WATCH.

TUTIMA’S RETURN is another step in the remarkable resurgence of fine watchmaking in Glashütte since German reunification in 1990. A public sign at the rail and bus depot next to Tutima Glashütte notes that there are today 11 different firms manufacturing watches in Glashütte, whose population numbers just 4,700. Today the tiny town basks in peace and prosperity. It’s a stark contrast to the nightmare years that marked Tutima’s beginnings. Tutima has a fascinating history — one, Delecate says, that “has not been sufficiently recognized so far.” The central figure in the drama is Ernst Kurtz. Kurtz arrived in Glashütte at a desperate time in the town’s history. After World War I, the market for the exclusive, expensive pocketwatches that were


PROFILE

Tutima Glashütte

Tutima’s famous Flieger Chronograph of the 1940s

The UFAG factory in Glashütte where Tutima was born

Tutima founder Ernst Kurtz

122 WatchTime October 2011

Glashütte’s specialty collapsed. In 1918, the Glashütte industry banded together to form a cooperative called DPUG (Deutsch Präzisions-Uhren-Fabrik Glashütte) to make inexpensive pocketwatches. The combine produced about 10,000 pocketwatches a year. But in 1925, with hyperinflation and other ills ravaging the German economy, DPUG went bankrupt. With most Dresden watch firms in bankruptcy (the famous Assmann firm failed the same year), the Dresden Girozentrale bank sent Kurtz, a 25-year-old lawyer, to deal with the DPUG mess. He developed a plan that, simply put, saved Glashütte’s watchmaking industry. Out of the ruins of DPUG, he created two related companies, one to make watch movements (Uhren-Rohwerke Fabrik Glashütte, called UROFA), the other to make finished watches (Uhrenfabrik Glashütte, called UFAG). Kurtz wrote the articles of incorporation himself, served as managing director of both companies, and was the sole member of the board. The Girocentrale Bank approved the plan and financed it. Kurtz proceeded to transform watchmaking in Glashütte. Through UROFA/UFAG, he orchestrated the urgent and difficult transition from smallbatch, hand-manufactured pocketwatches — which in the dire economic conditions of the 1920s were unsellable — to industrially produced wristwatches. Glashütte had no experience making wristwatches. To get it, Kurtz acquired the Emil Judith firm, in Bienne, Switzerland, and brought the chief engineers and the machinery to Glashütte. By 1928, UROFA/UFAG was producing wristwatches using its own ébauches. Walter Lange, former chairman of A. Lange & Söhne, in his book The Revival of Time, praises Kurtz’s pioneering vision. Writing about Glashütte’s difficulties in the 1920s, he says, “The entire Glashütte watch industry was performing more poorly than ever. Only UROFA, under the management of Dr. Ernst Kurtz, recognized the opportunity offered by favorably priced, industrially manufactured movements and the trend toward the wristwatch.” In this struggle for Glashütte’s sur-


Ernst Kurtz (third from left) with the UFAG product development team in 1939

Hommage Caliber 800 has more than 550 components.

vival as a watch center, Tutima was born. Kurtz and his team decided to create a brand for their top-quality watches. The name they chose was “Tutima,” derived from the Latin word tutus, meaning “safe” or “protected.” Kurtz’s industrialization strategy worked. Glashütte’s wristwatches sold well in Germany and Tutima’s reputation grew. So did UROFA/UFAG. In the 1930s it employed about 1,000 people in a town of fewer than 2,500. When Europe went to war again in 1939, the Germany military placed orders for a watch for the German Air Force. UROFA developed the now famous Caliber 59, the first German chronograph with a flyback mechanism. UFAG’s Tutima Flieger Chronograph gave the brand a new identity. (It’s the inspiration for Tutima’s Classic and Grand Classic collections.) The Flieger Chrono-

TUTIMA WAS BORN OUT OF GLASHÜTTE’S DESPERATE STRUGGLE TO SURVIVE AS A WATCH CENTER DURING THE 1920S.

graph had a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a continuous seconds hand at 9 o’clock, a 38.7-mm round case, a distinctive milled rotating bezel with a red-line marker, large push-buttons and a giant crown. Its large, luminous hour and minute hands were easy to read on the black dial, as were its large Arabic numerals. Under the 12 marker was the Greek letter tau, Tutima’s symbol, above the word “Glashütte.” UROFA/UFAG

124 WatchTime October 2011

SPECS TUTIMA HOMMAGE MINUTE REPEATER Manufacturer: Tutima Glashütte, Altenberger Strasse 6, D-01768 Glashütte/Saxony, Germany Functions: Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; hour, quarter-hour and minute repeater on two gongs

Tutima’s Musical Hommage Who knew? Germany’s Glashütte has a long and celebrated history as a center of high mechanical watchmaking. But for all its accomplishments, it’s never had a minute repeater to call its own. “There have been several quarter- or minute-repeating pocketwatches produced over the course of the 165-year history of Glashütte,” says Rolf Lang, technical director of the new Tutima Glashütte manufacture, “but never before has the entire repeating mechanism been designed and developed in the town.” Instead, Lang explains, Glashütte watchmakers used ébauches from Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. So when Tutima owner Dieter Delecate and Lang discussed what watch to produce first in the town after a 66-year absence, they decided on one that would fill this lacuna in Glashütte’s horological history. “Delecate wanted to design a watch that embeds Tutima in the Glashütte community,” Lang says. “The Tutima Hommage is the first real, full Glashütte minute repeater.” The watch is a limited edition. Tutima will produce 25 pieces in total: 15 with rose-gold cases and solid gold, silverplated dials ($244,000); five skeleton pieces with rose-gold cases ($244,000); and five skeleton pieces with platinum cases ($259,000). The cases have diameters of 43 mm. Lang, who designed the watch’s 550-piece, hand-wound movement, Caliber 800, explains how the minute repeater works. The mechanism takes the time information from the dial train. A slide on the side of the case activates the repeating mechanism and simultaneously supplies the energy required. The motion of the slide triggers a separate spring so that the

produced around 30,000 Flieger Chronographs during the course of the war. It was the last Tutima watch made in Glashütte until the new Hommage. Some UROFA/UFAG employees followed Kurtz to Memmelsdorf after the war (see the Last Minute column in this issue). After moving to Ganderkesee in the 1950s, Kurtz, in effect, passed the Tutima torch to Delecate. In 1960, Delecate purchased the rights to the Tutima name,

established Tutima Uhrenfabrik GmbH in Ganderkesee, and proceeded to revive the brand using Swiss-made movements. Kurtz lived to see Tutima’s comeback. He died in Ganderkesee in 1997 at the age of 96. (For more on Tutima’s history, see “The Rise and Fall and Rise of Tutima,” WatchTime December 2003, available at www.watchtime.com/print-archive/.) At the manufacture’s official opening, the man responsible for both the revival and the return, now in his mid-70s, offered a succinct and moving summary. “This day has a special meaning for me,” Delecate said. “A day full of past, present, and future.” 

energy for the striking hammer is not taken from the movement, which might reduce its accuracy. There are two mirrorpolished striking hammers. Two individual gongs, one with a high tone tuned to concert pitch A, the other with a deeper tone tuned to high C, indicate the hours, the quarter-hours and minutes. They are made from a special steel alloy. The hours are indicated by the lower gong; the quarter-hours use a high-low double strike (“ding-dong”); the high tones indicate the minutes. One unusual feature is that the gongs are not attached to the movement but to the case for a greater richness and clarity of tone. Lang is an authority on the distinctive style of watchmaking in the German state of Saxony, home to Dresden and Glashütte. He incorporated a number of signature Saxon features into the watch, such as a three-quarter plate, with a matte gold finish; winding wheels with the classic Glashütte sunburst polish; and bearing jewels set in screw-mounted gold chatons. It’s a Glashütte tradition for the watchmaker to engrave a personal symbol on the balance cock. In this case it’s a G clef. The minute repeater clearly pays homage to Glashütte’s Saxon watchmaking traditions. But, a bit more obliquely, it is also a tribute to Tutima founder Ernst Kurtz, says Tutima’s marketing chief (and Delecate’s daughter), Ute Delecate. She notes that when Kurtz took on apprentices at UROFA/UFAG, he insisted that they play a musical instrument. Those who didn’t had to start taking lessons. Kurtz felt that the discipline of playing an instrument would help fine-tune their watchmaking skills. Doubtless he would be delighted that Glashütte’s first minute repeater watch is a Tutima. — JT

Movement: Hommage Cal. 800, manualwind; 550 individual components; 42 jewels, three set in screw-mounted gold chatons; 21,600 vph (3 hertz); diameter = 32 mm; height = 7.2 mm; screw balance with 14 gold-weighted screws and four regulating screws in slotted, threaded holes; free-sprung Breguet hairspring, pallet lever with domed pallets; 72-hour power reserve; Glashütte three-quarter plate; hand-engraved balance cock with relief engraving; winding wheels with click and sunburst finish; all additional parts for the minute repeater bear a Glashütte tin-polished mirror surface. Case: Rose gold or platinum; nonreflective coating on both sides of the sapphire crystal; caseback with sapphire viewing window with nonreflective coating

Hommage, front and back. The sapphire caseback reveals typical Glashütte features like the threequarter plate and engraved balance cock (here with a G clef).

Dial: Solid gold, silver-plated; (the platinum versions and five rose-gold versions are skeletonized: the dial is reduced to a narrow ring around the perimeter); handcrafted hands in gold or blued steel Strap and clasp: Alligator skin; buckle in rose gold or platinum Dimensions: Diameter = 43 mm; height = 13.4 mm Price: $244,000 (20 pieces in rose gold); $259,000 (five pieces in platinum)


Ernst Kurtz (third from left) with the UFAG product development team in 1939

Hommage Caliber 800 has more than 550 components.

vival as a watch center, Tutima was born. Kurtz and his team decided to create a brand for their top-quality watches. The name they chose was “Tutima,” derived from the Latin word tutus, meaning “safe” or “protected.” Kurtz’s industrialization strategy worked. Glashütte’s wristwatches sold well in Germany and Tutima’s reputation grew. So did UROFA/UFAG. In the 1930s it employed about 1,000 people in a town of fewer than 2,500. When Europe went to war again in 1939, the Germany military placed orders for a watch for the German Air Force. UROFA developed the now famous Caliber 59, the first German chronograph with a flyback mechanism. UFAG’s Tutima Flieger Chronograph gave the brand a new identity. (It’s the inspiration for Tutima’s Classic and Grand Classic collections.) The Flieger Chrono-

TUTIMA WAS BORN OUT OF GLASHÜTTE’S DESPERATE STRUGGLE TO SURVIVE AS A WATCH CENTER DURING THE 1920S.

graph had a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, a continuous seconds hand at 9 o’clock, a 38.7-mm round case, a distinctive milled rotating bezel with a red-line marker, large push-buttons and a giant crown. Its large, luminous hour and minute hands were easy to read on the black dial, as were its large Arabic numerals. Under the 12 marker was the Greek letter tau, Tutima’s symbol, above the word “Glashütte.” UROFA/UFAG

124 WatchTime October 2011

SPECS TUTIMA HOMMAGE MINUTE REPEATER Manufacturer: Tutima Glashütte, Altenberger Strasse 6, D-01768 Glashütte/Saxony, Germany Functions: Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds; hour, quarter-hour and minute repeater on two gongs

Tutima’s Musical Hommage Who knew? Germany’s Glashütte has a long and celebrated history as a center of high mechanical watchmaking. But for all its accomplishments, it’s never had a minute repeater to call its own. “There have been several quarter- or minute-repeating pocketwatches produced over the course of the 165-year history of Glashütte,” says Rolf Lang, technical director of the new Tutima Glashütte manufacture, “but never before has the entire repeating mechanism been designed and developed in the town.” Instead, Lang explains, Glashütte watchmakers used ébauches from Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. So when Tutima owner Dieter Delecate and Lang discussed what watch to produce first in the town after a 66-year absence, they decided on one that would fill this lacuna in Glashütte’s horological history. “Delecate wanted to design a watch that embeds Tutima in the Glashütte community,” Lang says. “The Tutima Hommage is the first real, full Glashütte minute repeater.” The watch is a limited edition. Tutima will produce 25 pieces in total: 15 with rose-gold cases and solid gold, silverplated dials ($244,000); five skeleton pieces with rose-gold cases ($244,000); and five skeleton pieces with platinum cases ($259,000). The cases have diameters of 43 mm. Lang, who designed the watch’s 550-piece, hand-wound movement, Caliber 800, explains how the minute repeater works. The mechanism takes the time information from the dial train. A slide on the side of the case activates the repeating mechanism and simultaneously supplies the energy required. The motion of the slide triggers a separate spring so that the

produced around 30,000 Flieger Chronographs during the course of the war. It was the last Tutima watch made in Glashütte until the new Hommage. Some UROFA/UFAG employees followed Kurtz to Memmelsdorf after the war (see the Last Minute column in this issue). After moving to Ganderkesee in the 1950s, Kurtz, in effect, passed the Tutima torch to Delecate. In 1960, Delecate purchased the rights to the Tutima name,

established Tutima Uhrenfabrik GmbH in Ganderkesee, and proceeded to revive the brand using Swiss-made movements. Kurtz lived to see Tutima’s comeback. He died in Ganderkesee in 1997 at the age of 96. (For more on Tutima’s history, see “The Rise and Fall and Rise of Tutima,” WatchTime December 2003, available at www.watchtime.com/print-archive/.) At the manufacture’s official opening, the man responsible for both the revival and the return, now in his mid-70s, offered a succinct and moving summary. “This day has a special meaning for me,” Delecate said. “A day full of past, present, and future.” 

energy for the striking hammer is not taken from the movement, which might reduce its accuracy. There are two mirrorpolished striking hammers. Two individual gongs, one with a high tone tuned to concert pitch A, the other with a deeper tone tuned to high C, indicate the hours, the quarter-hours and minutes. They are made from a special steel alloy. The hours are indicated by the lower gong; the quarter-hours use a high-low double strike (“ding-dong”); the high tones indicate the minutes. One unusual feature is that the gongs are not attached to the movement but to the case for a greater richness and clarity of tone. Lang is an authority on the distinctive style of watchmaking in the German state of Saxony, home to Dresden and Glashütte. He incorporated a number of signature Saxon features into the watch, such as a three-quarter plate, with a matte gold finish; winding wheels with the classic Glashütte sunburst polish; and bearing jewels set in screw-mounted gold chatons. It’s a Glashütte tradition for the watchmaker to engrave a personal symbol on the balance cock. In this case it’s a G clef. The minute repeater clearly pays homage to Glashütte’s Saxon watchmaking traditions. But, a bit more obliquely, it is also a tribute to Tutima founder Ernst Kurtz, says Tutima’s marketing chief (and Delecate’s daughter), Ute Delecate. She notes that when Kurtz took on apprentices at UROFA/UFAG, he insisted that they play a musical instrument. Those who didn’t had to start taking lessons. Kurtz felt that the discipline of playing an instrument would help fine-tune their watchmaking skills. Doubtless he would be delighted that Glashütte’s first minute repeater watch is a Tutima. — JT

Movement: Hommage Cal. 800, manualwind; 550 individual components; 42 jewels, three set in screw-mounted gold chatons; 21,600 vph (3 hertz); diameter = 32 mm; height = 7.2 mm; screw balance with 14 gold-weighted screws and four regulating screws in slotted, threaded holes; free-sprung Breguet hairspring, pallet lever with domed pallets; 72-hour power reserve; Glashütte three-quarter plate; hand-engraved balance cock with relief engraving; winding wheels with click and sunburst finish; all additional parts for the minute repeater bear a Glashütte tin-polished mirror surface. Case: Rose gold or platinum; nonreflective coating on both sides of the sapphire crystal; caseback with sapphire viewing window with nonreflective coating

Hommage, front and back. The sapphire caseback reveals typical Glashütte features like the threequarter plate and engraved balance cock (here with a G clef).

Dial: Solid gold, silver-plated; (the platinum versions and five rose-gold versions are skeletonized: the dial is reduced to a narrow ring around the perimeter); handcrafted hands in gold or blued steel Strap and clasp: Alligator skin; buckle in rose gold or platinum Dimensions: Diameter = 43 mm; height = 13.4 mm Price: $244,000 (20 pieces in rose gold); $259,000 (five pieces in platinum)


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