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INSPIRATION • STASHBUSTERS • TECHNIQUES • GIVEAWAYS

TEXTURED

KNITS

e l b Ca cial e p S Get twisting And turning with designs, tips And how-to guides

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PU RE BLISS CO LLECTIO N

SITA Yolanda Pattern in Debbie Bliss Sita shade 03 Pebble. For more details on the Debbie Bliss range please visit: www.designeryarns.uk.com

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Knitting is published 13 times a year by GMC Publications Ltd, 86 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XN T: 01273 402838 ISSN 1740 6943 EDITOR Christine Boggis T: 01273 402824 christine.boggis@thegmcgroup.com SUB-EDITORS Catherine Kielthy, Jane Roe EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Lauren Goodchild lauren.goodchild@ thegmcgroup.com PATTERN EDITORS Rachel Vowles, Sue Culligan, Carol Ibbetson patternqueries@thegmcgroup.com DESIGNERS Amber Stoddart, Claire Stevens PHOTOGRAPHERS Laurel Guilfoyle, Anthony Bailey, Louise Clarkson MODELS Beverley Osei, Janine Craig, Sebastian Sacco, Emily Swann HAIR AND MAKE-UP Jeni Dodson PRODUCTION MANAGER Jim Bulley jimb@thegmcgroup.com PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Amanda Hoag amanda.hoag@ thegmcgroup.com MARKETING Anne Guillot PUBLISHER Jonathan Grogan DISTRIBUTION Seymour Distribution Ltd T: 020 7429 4000 PRINTER Precision Colour Printers ADVERTISING Russell Higgins T: 01273 402841 russellh@thegmcgroup.com SUBSCRIPTIONS Helen Johnston T: 01273 402873 helenj@thegmcgroup.com Subscribe online at: thegmcgroup.com 12 issues (including a 10% discount) UK £64.69 Europe £80.87 Rest of World £90.57 24 issues (including a 20% discount) UK £115.01 Europe £143.76 Rest of World £161.01 DD – UK only (including a 30% discount) Every 6 issues £25.16 Every 12 issues £50.32 US customers should call the subscriptions department for subscription rates in USD ($). Cheques should be made payable to GMC Publications Ltd, and sent to The Subscriptions Department GMC Publications Ltd, 166 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XU Current subscribers will automatically receive a renewal notice (excludes direct debit subscribers) See page 90 for more details This month’s galleries were photographed in and around My Brighton, part of the My Hotels group. Find out more at myhotels.com/brighton. And also at YAK, 16 Gloucester Road, Brighton BN1 4AD, yarnandknitting.com.

Editor’s letter

It may still feel like winter, but spring is just around the corner and we’re getting ready for spring cleaning at Knitting with some top ideas for organising and knitting your stash – we’ve got 10 brilliant stashbusting ideas for you on page 9, and top tips for sorting out your yarn collection on page 7. I’ve taken a leaf out of Purl About Town Laura Parkinson’s book and started knitting an investment blanket from all my leftover chunky yarns, a variation on Purl Soho’s Colourblock Bias Blanket that is proving a joy to knit, the sort of thing you can do while you’re watching something really gripping on TV (I’ve rather belatedly discovered Sherlock). Like many of you, I just love cables – I love knitting them, watching the wool travel across the growing fabric, and I really love the texture of the finished knit too. That’s why we’ve devoted this issue to a collection of cosy cable designs to work on while you wait for warmer weather. We’ve got up-to-date takes on the traditional Aran jumper from Bronagh Miskelly and Alison Robson, lighter knits looking forward to warmer weather like Emma Wright’s Chamomile tank and Jo Allport’s Carrie wrap, and I’m delighted to feature a design in Rachel Atkinson’s Daughter of a Shepherd yarn, designed by the talented Francesca Hughes. You can read an update on Rachel’s story of saving the wool from her father’s flock of sheep for knitters everywhere in her guest column on page 15, and knit stylish slash-neck jumper Hebridean on page 56.

Christine Views and comments expressed by individuals do not necessarily represent those of the publishers and no legal responsibility can be accepted for the result of the use by readers of information or advice of whatever kind given in this publication, either in editorial or advertisements. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior permission of the Guild of Master Craftsman Publications Ltd.

the season with a NEXT MONTH: We’re crafting ing colours, including collection of knits in spr brights. Look out and s tel greens, yellows, pas ly, Jo Allport, Bronagh for designs by Brandon Mab hes – plus the start of Hug Miskelly and Francesca tters. a new series: Yoga for kni

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Contents... ISSUE 165 MARCH 2017 69

64

84

80

REGULARS 1 5 13 36 48 93 96

75

Editor’s letter News Spotlight on Style file Your views Coming next month Purl about town

REVIEWS

18 Books and accessories NEVER MISS AN ISSUE! 21 Yarn review Find your nearest shop that stocks Knitting with this handy postcode finder and never GALLERIES miss an issue again! seymour.magzene.com 25 Fashion 38 Home 40 Gifts

FEATURES Inspiration: stashbusters 10 New season yarn preview 15 Guest column: Rachel Atkinson 9

HOW TO Cable masterclass by Norah Gaughan 50 Techniques A-Z: Entrelac 62 Quick Technique: Drop stitch cable 16

Join Knitting on.. 2

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72

16 71

87 PATTERNS 52 56 59 64 66 69 71

Inishmore Hebridean Flores Chamomile Lowena Briege Cabled capelet

ACCESSORIES 58 61 80 80 83 84

Carrie wrap Sand Cable wrap Mirrored cable beanie Penda hat and mitts Sweet Treats cowl Suvena socks

MEN’S 75 Passeggiata 77 Finnley

CHILDREN’S 85 87 87 88

Blue-eyed Cat sweater Nadene poncho Striped cables blanket Good and bad fairies

HOME 72 Cluster stitch pillow 73 Knotted rope cable throw

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NEWS

We catch up on the latest yarns COLOURFUL COLOUR URFU FUL UL AD ADDI ADDITIONS DITI TIONS

Rooster has added three new shades to its Almerino Aran range, a blend of 50% baby alpaca and 50% Merino wool. The new colours are 325 Caviar, 326 Grape and 327 Peach. Two others from the palette – 308 Spiced Plum and 315 Shimmer – have been discontinued.

LET KIDS BE CREATIVE Children are missing out on the chance to explore their creativity – a vital part of development that must be nurtured if the UK is to retain its global reputation in the field. That is what leading textile artists and craftspeople are saying as they launch the Campaign for Creativity in Education. They will lobby education secretary Justine Greening with an embroidered petition, and also want to encourage adults to explore their creative sides in a bid to improve mental health and relaxation. Anthea Godfrey, artistic director of the Embroiderers’ Guild, says: “The rigid nature of the national curriculum provides little opportunity or time for children to express themselves creatively, artistically or professionally. Creativity is vital to child development, not only as a means of expression and communication, but to support life skills such as problem-solving, strategic thinking and resilience.

“Creative thinkers hold the key to the UK’s future success, not just in culture and the arts, but across business and industry too. To enable creative students to have opportunities to select, embrace and qualify in creative subjects incrementally in the same pathway development as scientists, lawyers, doctors and others is vital in their long-term development.” She also says that offering creative subjects only in after-school classes will relegate them to the level of hobbies or pastimes. As they become less popular exam choices, they risk dying out altogether. “We must do all we can to ensure creative subjects are not sidelined in the education system,” she adds. The Campaign for Creativity in Education will launch at the Spring Knitting & Stitching Show in London’s Olympia from March 2-5. Find out more at theknittingandstitchingshow.com/spring.

6,000 JUMPERS IN ONE BOOK Can’t seem to find a pattern that suits you? Author, designer and teacher Melissa Leapman has the answer. In her new book 6000+ Pullover Possibilities, published by Sixth & Spring, she guides knitters through adapting all aspects of sweaters to suit them, creating more than 6,000 interchangeable combinations. Get your copy at thegmcgroup.com.

READER OFFER

REA DER OFFER: We have five pai rs of tickets to the Spring Knitting & Stitching Show to give away . For your chance to win, visi t our Com petitions page at knitting mag.com, deadline Febr uary 20. If you’re not one of our lucky winners , you can still get discount ed tickets to the show. To get your tick ets for £11 (£2 off for adults or £1 off for concessions), quote KNIT 17 when booking.

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Looking for knits that make the maximum impact for the minimum exertion? So were Maine knitters Gale e Zucker, Mary Lou Egan and Kirsten Kapur. Their quest has now become the K book Drop-dead Easy Knits, published b by Potter Craft, and we have five copies b to give away. For your chance to win, visit our Competitions page at knittingmag.com. 5

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NEWS

ROWAN’S SUMMER STYLE Rowan has released two design collections in its latest pattern magazine, issue 61. Beachcomber includes 18 designs for men, women and children in a selection of yarns that will work all year round, mainly Softyak DK and Big Wool. The collection of cool, casual knits is perfect for British summer time: there are cosy Aran jumpers and cardigans, fancy colourwork knits, cosy throws for those cooler evenings, fun kids’ knits, wraps and scarfs for in-between weather and much more. Designers include Martin Storey, Sarah Hatton and Tanja Steinbach. Peace is a collection of 12 designs for women by Lisa Richardson, Martin Storey, Sarah Hatton and Marie Wallin. In cool, pale pastels and light cotton yarns, including Handknit Cotton, Original Denim and Cotton Glacé, the designs are classic styles with plenty of interesting lace work and cables, as well as some plainer knits, still in the same elegant style.

WILD AND WOOLLY

Teesside nature reserve RSPB Saltholme has had a crafty transformation after local knitters kitted it out with woolly wildlife. The RSPB put out an appeal for knitted creations to decorate the reserve over the winter months, and crafters have responded in force. Visitor experience manager Caroline Found said: “We’re excited that our first knitted woodland creatures have already arrived, and we have been filling Saltholme with knitted nature. “There is still time to dig out your knitting needles and patterns and start creating birds, frogs, snails and leaves. Let your imagination run wild.” Interested knitters can get free patterns from Susie Johns, author of Knitted Woodland Creatures, published by GMC. To get yours, call 01642 542070. Hartlepool retailer Bobby Davidson’s Wools Worldwide has supported the event. Find out more at rspb.org.uk/saltholme.

HANDY SETS FOR KNITTERS Clover has launched two handy knitting accessory sets – and we have three of each of them to give away. There is a beginners’ set, including 10 quick-locking stitch markers, 20 small and 20 large soft stitch ring markers and two point protectors to fit 3.75-6.5mm needles. The socks accessory set includes 10 quick-locking stitch markers, 20 small soft ring markers, two double-pointed needle protectors to fit 2-3.75mm needles and a pair of darning needles. For your chance to win one of these sets, visit our Competitions page at knittingmag.com. Or to find your nearest stockist, email clover@ stockistenquiries.co.uk.

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NEWS

Top tips ORGANISING YOUR STASH

List it on Ravelry

Cataloguing your whole stash online may seem onerous, but once you’ve done it you’ll have a convenient place to look through everything you’ve got, and you can match your stash yarns to your queued projects. The site also has lots of tips on getting your stash organised.

Check your yarn weights

WIN TICKETS TO KIRSTIE’S HANDMADE FAIR TV presenter Kirstie Allsopp’s popular Handmade Fair is launching in Warwickshire this spring, and we have 10 pairs of tickets to give away. The Handmade Fair has been running at Hampton Court Palace for three years, but will also run at Ragley Hall, Park and Gardens in Alcester on May 12-14. There will be more than 150 exhibitors showing handmade products, craft supplies and artisan foods, as well as hands-on workshops in such diverse crafts as willow weaving, upholstery, needle-felting and calligraphy. Show manager Freya Cromarty said: “Over the past few years, the Handmade Fair has become a renowned success and we’re thrilled to be expanding to Warwickshire. It’s a great event to be a part of and our visitors will come away with tonnes of inspiration and everything they need to make their life and home more beautiful.” The Handmade Fair will also take place at The Green at Hampton Court Palace on September 15-17. For your chance to receive a pair of tickets, visit our Competitions page at knittingmag.com. Deadline: March 9. Find out more at thehandmadefair.com/ragley.

Succaplokki’s handy wrapsper-inch card (£12.03 from its shop on etsy.com) can help you work out the weight of yarns that have lost their ballbands. You might even find some of them match, and line up future colourwork projects.

Invest in some storage

There are so many attractive storage solutions out there – and all of them will look even better with yarn in them. These Pomme solid wood crates (£75 for the pair, loaf.com) have a handy blackboard side where you can note what’s in them. You could even create your own version with a wooden box and some blackboard paint.

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NEWS

STYLECRAFT SET FOR SUMMER

What’s on FEBRUARY 17-19 UNRAVEL The three-day festival features a programme of talks, demonstrations and workshops led by UK and international experts. craft.farnhammaltings.com

19-21 CRAFT HOBBY & STITCH Visit this trade show dedicated to the art, craft, needlecraft and hobby sector at the NEC, Birmingham. chsi.co.uk

Meet suppliers and brand new companies demonstrating and selling a variety of hobby and craft products, materials kits and designs in Farnborough. exhibitions.co.uk

24-26 SPRING QUILT FESTIVAL This festival showcases wonderful displays of quilts and patchwork as well as workshops and quilting suppliers’ stands. grosvenorshows.co.uk

MARCH 2-5 THE KNITTING & STITCHING SHOW Enjoy a great day out with stitching workshops and craft shows at Olympia, London. theknittingand stitchingshow.com SHUTTERSTOCK/RYAN RODRICK BEILER

Women across the US have been knitting pink hats in a bid to turn the streets of Washington DC pink in a march for women’s rights. Knitters across the US crafted the simple hats, some of them making dozens to share with non-knitters at the protest. The hats are a simple seamed rectangle, designed for knitters with any level of experience. A crochet version is also available. The Pussyhat Project was set up by Jayna Zweiman and Krista Suh, who wanted to make a powerful visual statement at the march. They said: “Knitting and crochet are traditionally women’s crafts, and we want to celebrate these arts. Knitting circles are sometimes scoffed at as frivolous ‘gossiping circles’, when really these circless are powerful gatherings of women, a safe space to talk, a place where women men support women. “Anything handmade shows a level of care, and we care about women’s rights, so it is appropriate ate to symbolise this march with a handmade item.” The march took place on January uary 21, the first full day of Donald Trump’s presidency, and was in part a response to his commentss about women while on the campaign trail, which UK prime minister Theresa May has called “indefensible”.

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Be inspired by exhibitors and workshops for a huge variety of craft hobbies including knitting and crochet. grosvenorshows.co.uk

10-11 EDINBURGH YARN FESTIVAL A celebration of all things related to yarn, wool and hand knitting in Edinburgh, Scotland. edinyarnfest.com

24-25 MAKE IT/ KNIT AND STITCH IT 2017

CAT HATS FOR JUSTICE

8

9-11 STITCH AND CRAFT

KATIE MATTHEWS

Stylecraft has launched Jeanie, a denim yarn designed to tap into the timeless trend for blue jeans. Jeanie is a soft cotton acrylic blend that comes in four blue shades – Dixie, Memphis, Delta and Texas – and knits up as an aran-weight. A capsule collection of designs has been launched to back the yarn, including fitted jackets and sweaters, boyfriend-style tops and cardigans you can style from rock chick to classic chic. Jeanie comes in 100g balls, rrp £4.75. Stylecraft has also added two new shades to its popular Sundae self-striping yarn. There are plenty of new patterns to knit and crochet, including relaxed jumpers and cardigans with delicate eyelet textures. Sundae is a 50:50 cotton acrylic blend that comes in 100g balls, rrp £4.79.

2-5 HOBBYCRAFTS A day filled with endless supplies, new product launches, demonstrations and workshops designed to inspire your creativity in Glasgow. hobbycraftshows.co.uk

16-19 FASHION & EMBROIDERY Find a wealth of materials and threads and an array of exhibitions all under one roof at the NEC, Birmingham. fashionembroidery.co.uk

APRIL 2-4 BRITISH CRAFT TRADE FAIR A trade-only fair that showcases work from exclusively British and Irish makers. bctf.co.uk

8 SPRING INTO WOOL A brand new festival of woolly arts and crafts, promoting the theme of inspiration and learning. springintowool.co.uk

22-23 WONDERWOOL WALES A day out with hands-on workshops showcasing the best in Welsh and British wool and natural fibres. wonderwoolwales.co.uk

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INSPIRATION

2 1

CLAYOQUOT TOQUE by Tin Can Knits Stashbusting: DK yarn Pattern from Knitting 158, September 2016, or ravelry.com

4

DICE by Sarah Keen Stashbusting: DK yarn Pattern from 100 Little Knitted Projects, £14.99, GMC Publications

OT T E N D E R FO D SC A R F A N E T by MIT TENS S atkins -W ll ze a Jo H g: Stashbustin DK yarn m Six Pat tern fro rojects P l al -B O ne Yarns, by Rooster m o fr available m co ravelr y.

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POMPOM HAT by Erika Knight Stashbusting: Super-bulky yarn – just add stripes! Pattern available from johnlewis.com

CHEVRON BOOT TOPPERS by Yelena M Dasher Stashbusting: DK yarn Pattern from Mini Skein Knits: 25 Patterns Using Small Skeins and Leftovers, £11.99, Lark

10 h s a t s

s r e t bus

GLAMPING BUNTING by Christine Boggis Stashbusting: Aran-weight yarn Longline waistcoat Pattern from Knitting 156, June 2016, by Stylecraft in available from thegmcgroup.com Stylecraft Batik Knit for £21.50

5

SALLY THE SHEEP AND HER FLOCK by Nicky Epstein Stashbusting: Any yarn weight Pattern from Knit a Square, Create a Cuddly Creature by Nicky Epstein, published by Sixth & Spring Books

7

Transform your excess yarn into exciting projects

9

TULIP by Alison Howard Stashbusting: DK or aran-weight yarn Pattern from Knitted Flowers, £5.99, GMC Publications

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HOLE IN ONE COWL by Cornelia Tuttle Hamilton Stashbusting: Aran-weight yarn Pattern from 50 Garter Stitch Gifts to Knit, £12.99, Sixth and Spring Books

10

PENDA HAT AND MITTS by Doggrell Designs Stashbusting: Four ply, fingering-weight or sock yarn. Introduce stripes to use up smaller ends of yarn Pattern page 80

9

25/01/2017 16:32


FEATURE

Rico in fashion Our spring picks from Rico include Fashion Cotton Spray DK, a 100% cotton ribbon yarn in six bold spray shades, which knits up to a soft and silky fabric perfect for warmer days. Fashion Jersey Print is a 64% cotton and 36% polyamide blend, which is a knitted jersey tube in three white-dominated print shades that knits up at 16 stitches and 23 rows to 10cm. Fashion Silk Blend is a luxuriously soft blend of 45% cotton, 45% silk and 10% polyamide that comes in six pastel and neutral shades.

Spring into

launches st e at l e h t at ok lo A

Cotton blends Cascade has released Hampton, a blend of 70% pima cotton and 30% linen that knit s up roughly to dou ble knit ting tension and comes in 15 shades, including bold jewel tones, pastels and neutrals. Sarasota is a soft and vers atile DK-weight blend of 60% cotton and 40% acrylic that comes in 12 marled shad es including vibrant colours, soft pas tels and classics.

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Colours of springtime include Debbie Bliss’s new yar ns t of par Botany Lace, previously % 100 The nd. the Araucania bra ol wo rino Me ash erw extra fine sup m 10c to s che stit 29 at knits up rning and comes in 20 self-patte 45% of nd ble shades. Sita is a ton cot ko ma 40% , mulberry silk t par is t tha ide yam pol and 15% s Blis e of Debbie’s luxury Pur shades, is Collec tion. It comes in 12 needles mm 5.5 for d recommende . Louisa 50g for 5 £9.9 at ils and reta lines new Harding also has a few of nd ble a , zzo out – including Ma ide yam pol 40% and 60% cot ton s to that knits up at 16-20 stitche self ht m and comes in eig 0cm 10c 10 n in s es e m me o com c co t It I . s s. e des d ade had ha ng ssha ng niiing er n ern er atttttern pat pa p 5.. .25 .2 3.25 £13 at £13 d at ed ce rriice pric allss p al bal 0g b 0 0g 100 10 1

summer yarn Summer fun

is all about Sirdar’s spring collec tion ct chunky effe our col the fun. New acr ylic 80% of nd ble a is ra yar n Au rant vib s and 20% wool that create in es com It ns. stripe combinatio h wit ked bac is and eight shades the all for s ign des et fl lea eight creates family. Fake fur yar n Wild oloured lti-c mu animal effects in 12 leaflets six h wit es com shades, and e– hom the and s girl n, me for wo neck l cow s, including slouchy cardie s are ew hom s, sweaters, accessorie l bal d Wil The . toy ky and a hus snood band even includes a free da ase rele pat tern. Sublime has y Bab r ula pop its prints version of nd ble a , DK Silk rino Cashmere Me 20% silk of 75% extra fine Merino, six print are and 5% cashmere. There baby t sof in ge, shades in the ran Baby e lim Sub new a colours, and Prints DK Silk rino Me ere hm Cas for babies book features 17 designs rs. dle and tod knit tingmag.com

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SHOPPING

I

KNITTING

This month’s makers’ must-haves

Flower Patch A5 journal £10.95, colliercampbell.com

Neon ribbon, 75p/metre berisfords@stockistenquiries.co.uk

Knit Your Own Kama Sutra £9.99, gettingpersonal.co.uk

Handmade haberdashery pouches and project bags, £12-28, loopknittingshop.com

Elizabeth chair £559, livingitup.co.uk

Grayling mittens pattern by Tin Can Knits US$6 (£5.08), tincanknits.com

Jazz Band stitch markers £11.69, etsy.com/uk/shop/Succaplokki

Lambswool throw £140, nkuku.com

Tote bags £20, neemacrafts.com

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ook Get the l

MARQUES’ALMEIDA FOH

SHAUN JAMES COX/ SAM WILSON/ NEIL MASON/ KENSINGTON LEVERNE/ EEVA RINNE/ ZOE LOWER/BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL

OILILY PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

ERDEM

PETER PILOTTO

RICHARD MALONE

TEMPERLEY

J.W.ANDERSON BURBERRY

MOTHER OF PEARL

ROBERTS WOOD

OILILY

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD WILLIAM ASHLEY WILLIAMS

Frills, ruffles, spikes, layers and ridges are all over this season’s catwalks. Ruffles stand out in Ashley Williams’ collection, while Molly Goddard has a typically feminine take on frills, and ridged shoulder seams add a military feel to Mother of Pearl. When it comes to crafts, crochet mayy be better known for its textures, but knitting itting is great for making 3D fabrics too – whether hether you create them yourself or use a textured yarn that adds its own dimension ion to plain knitting.

HENRY HOLLAND HE

TEXTURES

ANYA HINDMARCH

GARETH PUGH

3D 3D

TEMPERLEY

on Spotlight

night Erika K l Fur Woo re Co The Fib e r o Arran m

shion Rico Fa e s Sur pri Pilgrim denim frill tunic, £20, Tu at Sainsbury’s • Frill detail skirt, £65, Studio by Preen at Debenhams • Dinidinessy bag, £60, Dune • Fiona satin peep-toe shoes, £99, Phase Eight • Annie Haak London bracelet stack, £380, anniehaakdesigns.co.uk

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GUEST COLUMN

In 2016, Rachel Atkinson launched her own yarn, spun from the fleeces of sheep her father shepherds. One year on, she picks up the story’s thread

B

y the time this article is published it will be almost a year since I received the first Daughter of a Shepherd yarn from the mill. Opening that box was such an incredible experience – I didn’t know what to expect or even if it would be possible to spin the fleece from the flock of Hebridean sheep my father shepherds, but in the right hands it became a truly beautiful hand-knitting yarn. These past 12 months have sent me on a steep learning curve. Having only dabbled with a spindle in the past, before hiding it away for fear my stash would be taken over by fluff, I have had to learn a lot about different spinning processes and what makes a particular fibre a suitable candidate for each of those techniques. A visit to the British Wool Board headquarters in Bradford was a real eye-opener. Once the raw fleece lands at Wool House, it is sorted and graded before being auctioned. Batches are sent to Haworth Scouring, one of only two large scouring facilities remaining in the UK. A series of amazing machines gently wash, dry and comb the dirty fleece into light, bright and airy tops ready for spinning. The scourers also blend the different fleeces to specifications requested by various manufacturers to produce fibre with characteristics suitable for everything from carpets to yarn. It’s a fascinating process to see in action. When I launched Daughter of a Shepherd at Edinburgh Yarn Festival last March, one of the things for which I was completely unprepared was that people would not only knit the yarn, but a few would also design with it. Things had been so chaotic and fraught in the run-up to Edinburgh that I hadn’t thought past the end of the festival, so this was an absolute revelation and it has been wonderful watching the yarn inspire people to create their own patterns. Francesca Hughes is uniquely placed in the Daughter of a Shepherd story. Working part-time for Fibre Harvest, the mill where my yarn is spun, Frankie has watched the fibre being spun into yarn and she has been

Designs on the future hands-on in the process, assisting at various stages right up to packing the twisted skeinss into boxes ready for delivery. She is a talented ed knitwear designer, with a great eye for beautiful and unexpected details, and I am thrilled that Knitting is running her design in my yarn. Hebridean is a cabled sweater that shows off the textured patterns that really sing in Daughter of a Shepherd yarn – something a lot of people (myself included) d) didn’t expect, but it has become one of the great characteristics of the yarn. Getting to know my yarn these past few months has been a joy. Given that I had no clue what to expect in that first delivery, it has been a case of testing out different stitch patterns and needle sizes to see what suits the yarn best. It is the type of “proper” woolly yarn I love working with – what I call a true knitters’ yarn. Having decided to continue with the yarn and take the company forward, I secured the 2016 clip from Escrick Park Estate, and the spinning schedule is booked for 2017. A glorious 4 ply yarn will be introduced alongside the DK, and the other large project I have been quietly working on is a book incorporating designs from a handful of international names using both weights of the yarn. We are hoping to publish in March 2017, so watch this space for news on this and a few other bits and bobs I have up my woolly sleeve!

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PHOTOGRAPHY RACHEL ATKINSON, JENI REID

Rachel Atkinson n is a knitter, blogger, and knitting, crochet and craft editor. Find out more about Daughter of a Shepherd yarn at daughterofashepherd.com and knit Francesca Hughes’ Hebridean on page 56.

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FEATURE

Masterclass:

Cable basics Cable expert Norah Gaughan takes you through everything you need to know before you embark on a project

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FEATURE

Choosing yarns

PHOTOGRAPHY © 2016 JARED FLOOD

My favourite yarns for knitting cables are multi-ply wools. The plying makes them round and smooth, and cables knitted from these yarns tend to be round and smooth as well, showing off every twist and turn clearly. Wool has a lot of natural elasticity, which is great on several levels. The stretch makes it easier to work the cable crosses. Wool is also very forgiving. Stitches tend to stay beautiful and well shaped, smoothing out little inconsistencies in tension. Many companies make beautiful yarns of this type. Of course, cables can look great in all sorts of yarns, not just multi-ply wools.

Choosing a cable needle

When you are holding stitches aside while cabling, typically you put them on another needle and hold them in front or at the back of the work. There are small needles made for the purpose (officially called cable needles), but any double-pointed needle will do the job just as well. When I refer to a cable needle in this book, I mean whatever needle you choose to use. I’ve seen cable needles made of wood, metal, plastic and bamboo. Most are only a few inches long. They can be straight, have a dip in the centre to aid in holding stitches, or have a few ridges or grooves meant to do the same. Some cable needles are shaped like a U to make it easier to carry stitches from the front to the back and to keep the stitches from falling off. It works best to use a cable needle that is slightly smaller in diameter than your knitting needles, just fat enough to stay in place and not slip out, leaving your stitches dangling. The best cable needle for you is entirely a matter of personal preference.

Using a double-pointed needle as a cable needle

When I’m cabling, I like to use a doublepointed needle a size or two smaller than my working needle as my cable needle. The 10cm double-pointed needles are great, but I usually use 18cm ones because I have a lot of them around. Some people think that the longer length makes using them awkward, however I have developed a system that makes it easy. When a cable requires holding stitches at the back, I bring the cable needle to the back of the work before slipping the stitches on to it. That way I don’t have to wrestle the longer needle from the front to the back. After I have slipped my stitches on to the cable needle, I plant the left end of the cable needle into the body of my work. This holds everything in place a little better than leaving the cable needle hanging from the work and it keeps the cable needle from slipping out of the stitches. Planting the cable needle into

Where you hold your cable needle – to the front or to the back – determines whether your cable will slant to the left (front) or right (back)

the body of the work also makes it less likely for the beginning cable knitter to twist the cable around 180°, causing the stitches to be in reverse order (meaning that the left-most stitches swing around to become the rightmost stitches). If this happens to you, you’ll likely notice there is a problem because the stitches will appear scrunched up and messy and will be harder to work or harder to slip on to the left-hand needle.

Right slant or left slant

You can manipulate the direction of your cable by holding stitches to the front of your work or to the back. Holding to the front makes a cable cross slant to the left. Holding to the back makes it slant to the right. This isn’t something you need to purposely memorise (though over time it will come naturally) because the chart or written instructions will always tell you what you need to do. To hold the stitches to the front or back, you slip the stitches to be held on to a cable needle (see below). If you are going to hold the stitches to the front of your work (that’s between you and your knitting) then start with the cable needle in front as well. If you want to hold the stitches to the back, bring the cable needle to the back of your work before you slip the stitches on to it. If you typically slip the stitches on to the cable needle while the needle is still in front of your work, and then bring it to the back by manoeuvring it between your two main needles, then definitely give my way a try; I think it’s much easier.

Slipping stitches to cable needle

Working held stitches

Instructions for knitting cables often tell you to knit the held stitches directly off the cable needle. For instance, the key might say: “k4 from cn.” You certainly can work directly off your cable needle as instructed. However, I personally find it a bit awkward, so I usually slip the stitches back to my left-hand needle before working them. In some cases the left-most stitches might get stretched a bit with this method. For me, though, the comfort of slipping them back and working off my main needle trumps any slight stretching.

Extract taken from Norah Gaughan’s Knitted Cable Sourcebook by Norah Gaughan. £19.99, Abrams

Always slip stitches off your left-hand needle on to the left end of your cable needle. When

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you work off the cable needle (that is, knit or purl the stitches), work off the right end of the cable needle on to the right-hand needle. You may want to slip all of the stitches at once rather than one at a time. No matter which way you do it, always keep them in their original orientation on the needle. This is called slipping as if to purl (or slipping purlwise), because the needle goes into the stitches on the right side and comes out the left, just as if you were purling. But don’t think about this too much. When you are slipping more than one stitch at once, this is the intuitive choice.

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13/01/2017 11:07


REVIEWS Christine Boggis tries out the latest releases

DROP-DEAD EASY KNITS by Gale Zucker, Mary Lou Egan and Kirsten Kapur Three knitting pals in Maine have decided that what they mainly want to craft are things that look gorgeous but are really easy. They have come up with 29 designs for jumpers, cardigans, shawls, socks, accessories, homewares and more, all of which look impressive and challenging. There’s lace, different textures, colourwork and myriad features – but all these techniques, they assure us, are “dropdead easy”. Favourite projects include the asymmetrical Abide shawl, Idlewild socks and the amazing Star-Eyed Julep Throw, a garter stitch version of a log cabin quilt. £12.99, Lark, available from thegmcgroup.com

HIYAHIYA INTERCHANGEABLE SOCK SET Regular readers may know that I’ve always been a big fan of double-pointed needles. But after a series of frustrating stitch-droppings I decided to give socks on the magic loop a go. Step up HiyaHiya’s interchangeable sock set. The set includes six sets of tips (ranging from 2mm to 3mm in size) and four cables, from 60cm to 100cm long. While many of HiyaHiya’s needles are available in a choice of materials, these only come in Sharp – aptly named for the metal needles’ point, which is excellent for picking up dropped stitches and unknitting but can bit a little tough on the thumb tips if, like me, you use them to push stitches along sometimes. It also includes an adapter to fit the cable to even smaller tips, and grippy pads to tighten the join, plus a cable key for added security. The whole thing comes in a pretty floral case in a choice of three colours (turquoise and purple as well as red, pictured here), with plenty of pockets handy for stitch markers, scissors or other small accessories. These needles are a real joy to work with, in spite of the occasional sore finger when you fall foul of one of the sharp tips. HiyaHiya’s narrow, flexible but strong cables are perfect for magic loop knitting, and the smooth steel tips allow stitches to flow easily from one needle to the next. Cables are fitted with attachments that mean the join to the tip comes on the straight part of the needle, so stitches glide across without ever seeming to catch. My socks were finished in no time and I couldn’t wait to cast on the next pair. £71.69, brownberryyarns.co.uk

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TOPSY-TURVY KNITTED DOLLS by Sarah Keen With 10 fun reversible dolls to knit, this book is a fairy tale come true for avid toy crafters. The book is packed with favourite childhood characters, including Little Red Riding Hood who reverses into the big bad wolf, Sleeping Beauty awake and asleep, Alice in Wonderland, who reverses into the Queen of Hearts, and for Frozen fans, the Elsa-like Ice Princess, who comes as both her warm and cold personas. The techniques are relatively simple and could be picked up at any level. A must for all fairy tale fans and grown-up kids. £14.99, GMC Publications, available from thegmcgroup.com

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13/01/2017 11:09


REVIEWS

SIMPLE CHIC CROCHET by Susan Ritchie and Karen Miller

9 MONTHS TO CROCHET by Maaike van Koert

Following on from their book Simple Chic Knits, the duo behind the Mrs Moon yarn brand, Susan Ritchie and Karen Miller, have put their heads together to create Simple Chic Crochet. Their aim was to show how easy and fun crochet can be, with chunky-knit projects crafters can see growing. They also wanted to avoid designs they describe as “overly crochet”. The result is a collection of 35 patterns divided into five sections: fashion, scarves and wraps, homewares, accessories and kids’ stuff. Designs range from simple and cosy chunky designs through fancy lace to retro and granny square projects. Like Susan and Karen I prefer my crochet not to be too crochet, so my top picks are a beautiful, simple baby cardigan, a marmalade scarf with bobble tassels and an easy sweater in treble crochet. £12.99, Cico Books

Aimed at mums-to-be or anyone waiting for a new baby, this sweet book features 25 crochet projects counting down to the big day. Divided into three chapters for the first, second and third trimesters, 9 Months to Crochet features patterns for baby clothes and accessories, blankets and sleeping bags, toys, nursery decorations, handy bits and bobs like a nappy case and bowls, and even the odd treat for mum, such as a granny square scarf, a hot water bottle cover and a shawl. My favourite makes include the super-cute Sleepy Sheep Mobile, Ombré Baby Sleeping Bag and a matching set of shorts, jumper, hat and booties. A great gift for pregnant crafters or grandparents-to-be. £9.99, Apple Press

ESSENTIAL SKILLS: MACRAMÉ JEWELLERY by Jenny Townley and Suzen Millodot

PATCHWORK EMBROIDERY by Aimee Ray

Fancy trying out a new fibre art? This visual guide in Quarto Press’s useful Essential Skills series gives you everything you need to know to start making macramé jewellery. For those who didn’t learn it from making friendship bands at school, macramé is the art of knotting thin cords into pretty designs. But with the addition of beads, buttons, clasps and new skills it can become so much more. This comprehensive guide takes you through all the knots, from simple to fancy, and finishes with a handful of pretty projects including a watch strap, bracelets, rings and earrings. £9.95, Quarto Press

This is a book for needlecrafters who love patchwork and embroidery, but don’t fancy the obvious option of quilts. Starting with embroidery basics and sewing essentials, it takes the reader through 21 attractive projects ranging from embellishing bags, tea towels and jeans to creating patchwork art pieces like a canvas, a mini wall quilt and even a reversible wrap skirt. Templates are simple but stylish, with a really quirky, crafted feel that is very much on-trend right now. I liked the Camper Zipper Pouch, Animal Baby Book and Tree Hill Canvas Frame Art best. £16.99, Lark, available from thegmcgroup.com

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Rural Landscape Design: Camilla Ette Gotfredsen, DesignEtte.dk, Denmark People have been cultivating the land for thousands of years. I find the sight of the cutivated fields very beautiful. I particularly like the plough furrows that divide the landscape with their stark, straight lines, created by cutting the dark earth and turning it over. Where these lines change direction from one area to the next, beautiful combinations of stripes emerge. I have been “playing farmer�, zooming in and out and applying my aesthetic sensibility, sensing the cutting edge of the plough and the gentle turning of the soil. I have tried to render the structure in knitting, this is my fiel .

Sizes from XS to 3XL

QUALITY YARNS & EYE CATCHING PATTERNS FOR OPTIMAL FIT DesignEtte.dk

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FREE DELIVERY WITH AMAZON PRIME

1/11/17 11:15 AM


REVIEWS

YARN REVIEW Jeanette Sloan tests a colourful bunch of new yarns

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23/01/2017 16:39


TRULY HOOKED YAK SOCK

BROOKLYN TWEED ARBOR

DYEHOUSE YARNS SOCK

LOUISA HARDING PITTURISSIMO

Truly Hooked Yak Sock is a plied and twisted 4 ply made from a blend of 70% superwash Merino, 20% nylon and 10% yak. It’s coloured by Verity Castledine, who began handdyeing in her Nottingham home three years ago and has been creating colourways as well as knitting and crochet patterns under the Truly Hooked brand ever since. She also designs and has released a book of patterns called The Sock Drawer. Opening up the hank allows you to see how the dye has been applied to the yarn and reveals the gentle transitions in colour. The selection of colourways is constantly updated, so it’s best to check the website for the latest releases, but the sample shown here is Easyknitter – an intense mix of emerald, olive, teal, burgundy and violet. Although it has been superwash treated, this yarn should be washed with care so hand-wash, reshape while wet and dry flat.

The first thing I noticed about Arbor, the latest addition to the Brooklyn Tweed range, was that it has a wonderfully bouncy handle. It’s made from 100% US Targhee wool sourced from South Dakota, then spun and dyed within a 20-mile radius in Maine. The Targhee is an American breed based on Rambouillet stock combined with Corriedale and Lincoln breeds for strength. The fibre is worsted-spun, which means fibres are first combed and then aligned before spinning three plies to a DK weight to give a smooth, durable yarn in a versatile weight which offers softness as well as brilliant stitch definition. It’s available in 30 custom-dyed shades including Rainier, shown here. Pattern support includes nine accessory designs in a range of knitting techniques including brioche, cables and bobbles, available to download. This yarn should be handwashed then dried flat.

Dyehouse Yarns Sock is a plied and twisted blend of 75% superwash wool and 25% nylon, a tried and tested sock blend. Linda Brown runs Dyehouse Yarns from her home in West Sussex, and what’s different about this smooth, dry-tothe-touch yarn is the way it’s coloured. I’m not usually a fan of burgundy or purple, but Hellebore (shown here) could convert me, as I love the way the neon-lime accents lift the purple. Because indie dyers like Linda tend to work in small batches no two hanks of yarn are exactly the same. This yarn is fun to work with as it produces a soft, lightweight fabric that’s also durable. It’s ideal for effortless sock knitting as the handdyeing creates all the interest. It also works well for shawls and garments. Although it’s been superwash treated, the yarn is best hand-washed with a gentle detergent then dried flat out of direct sunlight.

Pitturissimo may look familiar if you’re already a fan of Louisa Harding’s yarns. That’s because it’s a fatter version of her Pittura yarn and has the same blend of 75% wool and 25% viscose. However, because it’s loosely twisted, it looks thicker than its aran-weight tension would suggest. It’s soft, with a slinky handle thanks to the viscose, and it has just enough twist to give it strength, which stops it pulling apart as you knit. Choose a quality needle with a good sharp point to avoid it catching or splitting as you work, but the resulting fabric is a great reward. There are eight colours, including Virginia, shown here. Pattern support comes in a collection of six designs, available individually as leaflets that include accessories and garments. This yarn should be hand-washed then dried flat.

Composition: 70% superwash Merino, 20% nylon, 10% yak Weight: 100g Length: 400m Rec needle size: 2-3mm RRP: £16 Contact: Truly Hooked E: info@trulyhooked.com W: trulyhooked.com

Composition: 100% American Targhee wool Weight: 50g Length: 132m Rec needle size: 3.75-4.5mm Tension (10cm): 21 sts x 24 rows RRP: US$13.25 (£10.90) Contact: Brooklyn Tweed W: brooklyntweed.com

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Composition: 75% superwash wool, 25% nylon Weight: 100g Length: 400m Rec needle size: 2-3mm RRP: £16 Contact: Dyehouse Yarns E: info@tabathathomas.co.uk W: tabathathomas.co.uk

Composition: 75% wool, 25% viscose Weight: 100g Length: 150m Rec needle size: 5-6mm Tension (10cm): 18-16 sts x 24-22 rows RRP: £13.25 Contact: Designer Yarns E: enquiries@designeryarns. uk.com W: designeryarns.uk.com

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23/01/2017 16:39


SWEETGEORGIA SUPERWASH SOFT

YARNTELIER CASHMERE GILLI

ROWAN SOFFILI YAK

Superwash Soft is the latest offering from artisan hand-dyed yarn company SweetGeorgia. The brand shows a real passion for colour, and this one certainly doesn’t disappoint. Two plies of fibre spun from a blend of 80% superwash Merino and 20% nylon are twisted together to create this soft and rounded chunky yarn that’s then dyed by hand to create one of four different colour effects: Semisolid, Variegated, Gradients or Colourwashed. It has a lovely rounded feel that means it knits up smoothly and evenly, producing a soft, lustrous fabric with exceptional stitch definition. There are more than 130 colours available. The sample below was knitted in Mulberry from the Colourwashed palette. This yarn is not only durable but also easy to care for, so it’s perfect for small, quick knits as well as full garments. It can be machinewashed on a gentle setting or hand-washed and dried flat.

This yarn, from Louisa Harding’s new brand, is elegant at first sight and luxurious from the first touch. Produced in West Yorkshire within five miles of Yarntelier HQ, Cashmere Gilli is 100% cashmere with a plied and twisted construction. Each of the two plies is itself made up of two further plies of fibre, and although it appears to have the lightest of twists it’s very strong. It’s light to knit and while it may seem fine for a DK yarn, you’ll understand why once, like the swatch shown, it’s been knitted on 4mm needles and given a gentle steam. The fabric has a mousse-like softness and blooms ever so slightly to produce a lightweight but warm layer that feels amazing next to the skin. There are 12 marled shades, including shade 501 Oakwood, shown here, as well as bolder colours. Pattern support comes in the book Yarntelier Collection One. Hand-wash at 30ºC, wet-block and dry flat.

A blend of 32% nylon, 27% wool, 25% alpaca and 16% yak, Rowan’s limited-edition Soffili Yak is an aran-weight yarn with a fine chainette construction. It has a strong knitted core filled with fine, soft fibres, and this gives the yarn a dense, felted appearance – but you’ll notice how light it is as soon as you lift the ball. It knits up smoothly with no snagging to impede your progress, producing a featherlight fabric with slightly open stitches that’s ultra-soft to touch and warm next to the skin. This isn’t the yarn to choose if you’re looking for well-defined stitches, but if you want a slightly marled, voluminous yarn with an airy feel and a touch of luxury you will love it. There are five shades including dense, blue-black 004 Nightfall, shown here. Lisa Richardson has designed four garments and accessories to go with it. This yarn should be hand-washed then dried flat or dry-cleaned with care.

Composition: 80% superwash Merino, 20% nylon Weight: 100g Length: 100m Rec needle size: 5.5-8mm Tension (10cm): 12-14 sts RRP: £19 Contact: SweetGeorgia W: sweetgeorgiayarns.com

Composition: 100% cashmere Weight: 50g Length: 212m Rec needle size: 3.75-6mm Tension (10cm): 22 sts x 30 rows on 4mm needles RRP: £25 Contact: Yarntelier W: yarntelier.com

Composition: 32% nylon, 27% wool, 25% alpaca, 16% yak Weight: 50g Length: 165m Rec needle size: 5mm Tension (10cm): 18 sts x 25 rows RRP: £9.95 Contact: Rowan W: knitrowan.com

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VICKIE HOWELL FOR DERAMORES WOOLPACA CHUNKY Online yarn retailer Deramores has teamed up with US-based knitting and crochet designer Vickie Howell to create two new exclusive yarns. The heavier of the two is Woolpaca Chunky, a chainette blend of 80% Merino and 20% baby alpaca. This construction adds spring to the yarn, which produces a lightweight but chunky fabric that’s soft with a bouncy handle. The fabric has a dense, close texture and will work well for large cables, broad ribs and colourwork. There’s a sober range of colours with a couple of notable popping shades like Indian Summer, an intense spicy orange, and magenta Aura, shown here. You’ll find a range of accessory patterns, designed by Vickie, in both pattern and kit form on the Deramores website. Hand-wash and dry flat. The sample shown has been very gently steamed. Composition: 80% Merino, 20% baby alpaca Weight: 50g Length: 110m Rec needle size: 5.5-8mm Tension (10cm): 12-15 sts RRP: £7.50 Contact: Deramores E: customer.service@ deramores.com W: deramores.com

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23/01/2017 16:40


Paula Chew

Westcliffe Knitting Holidays “Bring Your Knitting on Holiday!”

46 King Edward Ave North Shore Blackpool FY2 9TA 01253 352943

Exclusively for knitters and crocheters!

Traditional wool shop 4 Dolphin Court, Honiton, Devon EX14 1HT

www.thewoolstack.co.uk 01404 47676

w www.westcliffe-knitting.co.uk

e westcliffehotel@aol.com

Discover our website!

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1/19/17 4:27 PM


Twists and turns, bobbles and knots, our cable special has got the lot. So get your cable needles ready and come on a knitting journey

INISHMORE Bronagh Miskelly Yarn New Lanark Aran Skill level Advanced Pattern page 52 Knots, honeycombs and travelling cables make this new take on the traditional Aran jumper an exciting challenge to knit.

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19/01/2017 11:24


HEBRIDEAN Francesca Hughes Yarn Daughter of a Shepherd Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 56 This undyed wool from Hebridean sheep is shown off perfectly in a subtle diamond cable design. Side splits and a slash neck are perfect for warmer spring days.

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25/01/2017 16:37


CARRIE Jo Allport Yarn Rico Fashion Silk Blend Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 58 Cables and lace meet in this soft and elegant wrap in Rico's new cotton, silk and polyamide blend yarn.

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19/01/2017 11:24


FLORES Jo Allport Yarn Sublime Evie Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 59 A drop stitch design adds interest to the cables in this light and airy, cotton-dominated jumper. Learn how to do it yourself on page 62.

Learn a new techniqu e in Jo Allport’s drop st itch masterclass on page 62

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19/01/2017 11:25


SAND CABLE WRAP Brian Smith Yarn Cascade Baby Alpaca Chunky Skill level Beginner Plus Pattern page 61 A simple cable design in softest baby alpaca make this a great project for first-time cablers.

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19/01/2017 11:25


CHAMOMILE Emma Wright Yarn Shilasdair Luxury DK Skill level Beginner Plus Pattern page 64 The yellow centre of a chamomile flower, full of colour and texture, inspired this design – both its vibrant colour and its pretty linen stitch back.

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19/01/2017 11:25


LOWENA Sarah Dennis Yarn Debbie Bliss Rialto Skill level Advanced Pattern page 66 Bands of Celtic-inspired cables and a cabled collar make this pretty cardigan, named the Cornish word for joy, a really interesting knit.

graphed o t o h p e r pages we rn shop a y t n e d These two n e t on indep nd shop a a e at Bright r o m t ou YAK. Find ndknitting.com yarna 31

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BRIEGE Alison Robson Yarn Erika Knight Vintage Wool Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 69 This pretty boat neck take on a traditional Aran jumper is named Briege, the Irish for Bridget. It has plenty of details to interest the keen cabler, including a sweet cable rib detail on the cuffs and waistband.

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CABLED CAPELET Debbie Bliss Yarn Debbie Bliss Rialto DK Heathers Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 71 This elegant buttoned capelet is a great workout for your cabling skills, and super-stylish to boot.

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19/01/2017 11:26


www.classiceliteyarns.com

Devlin knit in Inca Alpaca from Emerald Isle, 1508. Find this and other beautiful Classic Elite Yarns patterns at your LYS and on Ravelry.

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1/19/17 11:53 AM


FASHION

STYLE FILE INISHMORE IN NEW LANARK ARAN

CLEMENTINE

WOODLAND

BLUE LOVAGE

FLORES IN SUBLIME EVIE

LATTE

ZOLA

HONEYDEW

STYLE ICON IN RICO ALPACA LPACA BLEND CHUNKY

SKYE GABBRO

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ATLANTIC SPRAY

FOXGLOVE

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13/01/2017 11:20


FASHION

Lauren Goodchild suggests alternative colourways and styling ideas for three knits from this month’s gallery With spring upon us, it’s time for our wardrobes to make the transition to the new season. Here are some classic jumper and jean combinations, perfect for the ever-changing weather. Chunky Inishmore’s charming cable detail looks great paired with relaxed jeans and loafers for that cool, casual look. With a rounded neckline, Flores is perfect to wear with a statement necklace. To add a more luxurious feel to your look, choose accessories in grey tones and suede fabrics. Chamomile is a bright and fun addition to any spring wardrobe. Pair with pale blue jeans and nude accessories to really make the colour pop.

INFINITE LOVE RING £130, Links of London

COAT £325, Jaeger

LOAFERS £65, Phase Eight

JEANS £35, Very

BAG £17.99, Deichmann

NECKLACE £28, Oliver Bonas

JEANS £26, M&Co

BOOTS £329, Jigsaw

BAG £45, Dune

JACKET £75, White Stuff

BOOTS £40, Dorothy Perkins

JEANS £42, River Island

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19/01/2017 11:36


Cable knits add beautiful textures to your interior design. Paired with stark, minimalist Scandi-style furniture they can add a cosy sense of home comfort to a clean, pared-down look – but they work just as well with country, shabby chic or retro styling 38

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26/01/2017 09:23


GET THE LOOK

Table, £995 oliandgrace.co.uk

Wallpaper, £120 debbiemckeegan.com

CLUSTER STITCH PILLOW Karen Miller and Susan Ritchie of Mrs Moon Yarn Mrs Moon Plump Skill level Beginner Plus Pattern page 72 A knitted pillow can add fabulous texture and colour to a room. Choosing a chunky yarn that is very quick to knit up means that you can add to your room’s look in an afternoon. To do the clusters you knit a group of six stitches on to a doublepointed needle, wind the yarn around them, then slide them off the other end of the needle.

KNOTTED ROPE CABLE THROW Sian Brown Yarn Drops Eskimo Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 73 Soft, chunky pure wool is used in a warm but neutral colour for this gorgeous throw. The large knotted cable, zigzag with bobbles and fourstitch cable give it a deeply textured feel for warmth and comfort in the lounge.

Chair, £55 danetti.com

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PASSEGGIATA Pat Menchini Yarn Rico Essentials Anti-pilling DK Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 75 There are twists and turns galore in this sleek and stylish jumper with a neat button neck detail. Fun to knit and easy to wear.

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26/01/2017 09:24


FINNLEY Drops Design Yarn Drops Lima Skill level Advanced Pattern page 77 Give the man in your life a treat and your cable skills a real workout with this stylish shawl neck jacket.

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26/01/2017 09:24


MIRRORED CABLE BEANIE Toft Yarn Toft Aran Skill level Beginner Plus Pattern page 80 The cables on this simple but effective beanie mirror each other, adding interest to a quick and fun knit. Perfect for cable newbies.

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all B e On lenge l Cha

PENDA HAT AND MITTS Doggrell Designs Yarn Any 4 ply, fingering or sock-weight yarn Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 80 Beautifully interwoven cables add texture and structure to this simple and elegant hat and mitts set.

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26/01/2017 09:25


SWEET TREATS Cathy Carron Yarn Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 83 Let them eat cake! This homage to the wedding cake is composed of cellular lace and half-cables. Two colours alternate between the patterns and half-cables switch direction with the colours. Densely worked cables create a smocking effect in the mid-section, while the final section tapers for a flattering wrap and drape.

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26/01/2017 09:25


BLUE-EYED CAT SWEATER Eva Carstensen for DesignEtte Yarn DesignEtte Merinette Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 85 The black and white intarsia cat’s blue eyes give this jacket its name and will make it a real kids’ favourite. The arrow pattern on the border can be worked in stranded knitting.

SUVENA Verity Castledine Yarn Truly Hooked Standard Sock Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 84 Slowly twisting across the front of the socks, this travelling cable is inspired by a fishtail braid. Its name comes from the Indian word for a braid of beautiful hair. The six-row repeat is memorised quickly and the travelling element is deceptively simple to master.

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NADENE Jo Allport Yarn Stylecraft Ombré Skill level Beginner Plus Pattern page 87 This sweet little poncho in Stylecraft’s gradient yarn Ombré makes a great introduction to eyelet patterns. Quick and fun to knit in aran-weight yarn, it is a must-wear for mini-fashionistas.

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GOOD AND BAD FAIRIES Sarah Keen Yarn Any DK Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 88 The Good Fairy is always happy to grant you three wishes, and thankfully she always gets the better of her enemy, the Bad Fairy, who is always up to mischief.

STRIPED CABLES BLANKET Mary Maxim Yarn Any DK-weight yarn Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 87 Knitted in single-colour panels and sewn together, this blanket makes a versatile addition to any new nursery.

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26/01/2017 09:26


YOUR VIEWS

ASK JEANETTE

Your queries answered by Jeanette Sloan STARER T LET

PERFECT FINISH I haven’t been knitting for very long and enjoy picking up tips from friends, books and, of course, your magazine. But I’m never sure about how to finish my knitting once I’ve cast off. I notice from yarn ball bands and labels that some have recommendations for ironing while some say not to iron at all. To add to my confusion, I noticed you mentioned steaming a sample in one of the yarn reviews, so what’s the best method? Oh, and is it best to sew the ends in before or after? Maxine Small, by email Sometimes knitting can look crumpled when it’s been in a project bag for weeks. While some knitters jump straight from casting off to sewing up, many projects benefit from the next stage of blocking, pressing or steaming. Personally, I never put an iron directly on to any knitted surface. It can burn, mark or melt the yarn if it’s set too hot as well as flatten out rich, densely textured fabrics. So, regardless of the project, once I’ve cast off, I sew in my ends. Yes, it can be a laborious process, but take your time and learn to enjoy doing it. Next

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I’ll block or pin the item to its finished measurements and then hold an iron just above the surface (around 2-4cm) before blasting it with steam to settle the stitches. Some yarns bloom at this stage, and if you’ve found your finished piece needs a tweak to get it to size, do it now. You may want to steam a couple of times, but make sure you allow the knit to cool thoroughly before unpinning, at which point you’re all set for sewing up. There are some occasions when another finishing technique, say, wet blocking for a lace project, will be necessary – there are plenty of tutorials online if you would like to find out more.

OUT OF THE LOOP I would like to knit myself an infinity scarf that can be looped a couple of times around the neck for extra cosiness. My preferred cast on is the long tail method, but as I plan to cast on more than 100 stitches I’m worried about running out of yarn before all my stitches have been cast on. Can you offer any tips that mean I won’t be restarting my scarf over and over again? Claire Brittany, by email

I was taught to knit using the cable cast on and stuck to that technique for absolutely years until I discovered the long-tail method, which is now my go-to cast on. I like it because it adds a purl texture to the initial right side row and it naturally has more give than the cable option. For anyone who hasn’t tried this method, it begins with a slip knot placed in a long tail of yarn in order to create the number of stitches required for the width of the project. The slip knot has to be placed in the middle of the tail, allowing both the end attached to the ball and the free end to make the stitches, so it’s vital that free end of yarn doesn’t run out before you’ve cast on all the stitches you need. There are three options you could follow. First, if you know how wide the finished project is going to be, measure a length of yarn that is three times that final width. So, if the finished cowl should be 150cm wide, the length should be 4.5m (150cm x 3). Second, you could allow 2.5cm or 1in of yarn for every stitch to be cast on, so for the 100 stitches you mentioned, you’d need a tail of 2.5m (2.5cm x 100). Finally, you could wrap the yarn 10 times around the needle you’ll be using then measure that piece of yarn.

This is about what you’ll need for 10 stitches. If, for example, it measures 10cm, you’ll need 10 times that measurement to get your 100 stitches. If these all sound a bit hit and miss, you could take the risk out of the whole process and use two balls of yarn instead of one. Using an end of yarn from each ball, make a slip knot and place it on the needle. This doesn’t count as a stitch. Thread the yarn from ball one around the thumb and the yarn from ball two around the forefinger in the standard slingshot position, then cast on all the stitches you need. To begin knitting, break one end of yarn and knit with the remaining ball as normal. When you come to the doubled slip knot at the end of the row, simply slip it from the needle. Lastly, here’s another tip: I like to use scraps of yarn placed on the needles to keep track of my stitch numbers. As you’re casting on such a large number of stitches, try using one contrastcoloured marker every 20 stitches, then a different-coloured marker to mark the 100s. This will make it easier to quickly check your stitch numbers without having to count every individual loop.

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19/01/2017 13:02


YOUR VIEWS

ASK JEANETTE STAR LETTER PRIZE Maxine Small asked this month’s star question. She wins a copy of MillaMia’s book Country Escape and 16 balls of MillaMia Naturally Soft Merino in a colour of her choice to make the Charlie Cardigan, courtesy of LoveKnitting.

YOUR LETTERS Share your thoughts through Facebook, Twitter or email for your chance to win

FESTIVE OCTOPUS

S

Every Christmas my sister and I L TAR ETT have a tradition whereby we give ER each other one new Christmas decoration to hang on our trees. So on Christmas Day this year I handed over my gift of a pottery reindeer head. My niece immediately teased me, saying that when held upside down it looked more like an octopus, and therefore not in the least bit festive. On returning home I decided to demonstrate that she was AS STYLISH AS VOGUE wrong. I pulled out the August I bought your magazine today 2016 edition (Knitting 157) and at an airport after finally finding turned to the pattern for Octavius something as stylish as Vogue the Octopus. I adapted the pattern and as far removed from the slightly by knitting in the round, usual, sickly, pastel-coloured using a yarn with a bit of sparkle oddities that give away cheap and stuffing it. I have posted “bamboo” (balsa wood) needles Octavius to my niece and fully as possible. expect to see it on their tree next Thank you. Something I can year, twinkling alongside all the relate to and be inspired by. other decorations. Now I just need to visit John Anna Ashwell, Lewis for more yarn. Tring, Hertfordshire Sarah Leach, via Facebook

WHAT’S ON YOUR NEEDLES?

If you have a question for Jeanette, email jeanettes@ thegmcgroup.com or write to Ask Jeanette, Knitting, GMC Publications, 86 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XN. Note: Jeanette regrets thatt she cannot enter into any personal correspondence with readers and can only answer letters that are chosen for publication in Knitting.

Ann-Marie Moncella shared this gorgeous hat and booties set for a six-month-old baby with us on Facebook, and Shirley Turner hass been making this lovely homely tea cosy. Share your finished projects with wi us every Friday and Fr show sh us what you’re knitting y on o Work in Progress Wednesday at facebook. acebook. com/KnittingMagazine. zi

STAR LETTER PRIZE Anna wins a copy of 50 Knitted Gifts for Yearround Giving by the editors of Sixth & Spring Books, worth £14.99, available from thegmcgroup.com. Share your thoughts for your chance to win.

CABLES OR LACE? Knitting readers love cables more than lace, according to our latest Twitter poll. Sixtynine percent of you chose cables as your favourites, compared to 31% for lace. But it was a tough decision: “Lace will work in any weight yarn to give a different look throughout the year. Mind you, I like lace and cable together,” says @knittingmand. s “So hard to choose! Cable is so s cosy and perfect in winter. But B lace is beautiful!” says @ KnittedKnacks. K And @yvonnejinx says: “Lace patterns are my Nemesis. I’m not p too to bad at cable, though that, too, to has been flung across the room more than once.” r

DON’T BE A STRANGER Twitter: @KnittingMag Facebook: KnittingMagazine

Pinterest: knittingmag1 Instagram: knittingmagazine

Lace 31% Cables 69%

Email: christine.boggis@thegmcgroup.com Post: Christine Boggis, Knitting, GMC Publications, 86 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XN

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19/01/2017 13:03


JEANETTE SLOAN’S A-Z OF KNITTING TECHNIQUES

Jeanette Sloan’s A-Z of Knitting Techniques

E is for Entrelac This clever colourwork technique is easier than it looks

I

take my hat off to the knitter who discovered this technique. It’s an intriguing combination of increases, decreases and picked up stitches that creates a multid ff directional,l woven-effect fabric that looks much more difficult to master than it is. Although it’s attractive when worked in a single colour, I’ve chosen to use contrasting colours so you can see more clearly how the fabric changes direction. This swatch is based on a multiple of 12 sts, but you could do a multiple of any number. As a basic rule, the size of the starter triangles sets the width of the blocks, and each block has twice as many rows as stitches. So in this case we’re starting with six blocks each six stitches wide, which means casting on 36 stitches. Once the foundation triangles have been completed we’ll be working 12 rows for each block of six stitches.

1

2

1. Having cast on 36 sts in colour 1, we’re ready to work the first foundation triangle. With the RS facing, *beginning with a purl row, p2, turn the work, k2. P3, turn the work and k3. Continue in this way, purling one more stitch on each RS row and knitting them on the WS row until 6 sts are on the right needle, then stop.* 3

4

3. To work the first set of blocks, change to colour 2 and make sure the RS (knit) side of work is facing. You’ll begin by working a triangle: k2, turn work, p2, turn. Knit into the front and back of the first stitch, then skpo. The extra stitch created at the start disappears into the skpo, which joins this triangle to the foundation triangle. Turn work, p3 and turn.

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2. Without turning the work, continue with the next triangle, beginning with p2 as before and once again stopping when there are 6 sts on the right needle. Repeat from * to * until all six triangles are complete.

4. On the next RS row kfb, k1, then skpo, turn work, p4 and turn. Keep working in this way, creating a stitch with kfb at the start and working skpo at the end, incorporating a stitch from the base triangle, until all 6 sts from that block are in colour 2. Do not turn work or break yarn.

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JEANETTE SLOAN’S A-Z OF KNITTING TECHNIQUES

5

5. For the first block using colour 2 and working into the row ends of the first foundation triangle, pick up and knit 6 sts, turn the work and p6.

8

8. P2tog, p5 and turn work, then knit. Continue in this way, decreasing at the start of each purl row and knitting the following row, until 2 sts remain. P2tog, then pass the loop to the left needle. You have now created a triangle to complete the side of the work.

11

11. Repeat from step 3, alternating colours as you go. Remember that in order for the sides of the fabric to be straight, you need to work a row of blocks followed by a row of blocks finished with triangles. This image shows a large swatch of repeats.

6

7

6. Knit to the last st in colour 2, then skpo and turn work. P6 and turn. Once again the skpo creates a join to the foundation triangle, so continue working in this way until all the sts from the foundation triangle have been incorporated into colour 2. Do not turn work or break yarn. 9

10

9. Break colour 2, join colour 1 and p1, then pick up and purl 5 sts into the side of the triangle just completed, turn work and k6.

12

10. P5, p2tog, turn and k6. Once again, working the p2tog creates a join between the different-coloured blocks. Continue working in this way until all the colour 2 sts have been incorporated into colour 1, then, without turning, pick up and purl into the side of every subsequent colour 2 block as before and work to end. 13

12. When casting off, in order to get a straight edge, you’ll need to work a closing set of triangles, so having repeated the first set of blocks in colour 2, join in colour 1 and ensure the purl side is facing.

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7. For the next block, using colour 2, pick up and knit 6 sts, working into the row ends as before, then turn and p6, then repeat step 6 to complete the block. Continue working in this way until you reach the last foundation triangle. Then, working into the left side edge of it, pick up and knit 6 sts as before.

13. P1, pick up and p5 sts from the side of the colour 2 triangle, then turn work, k6 and turn. P2tog, p3, p2tog, turn work, k5 and turn. P2tog, p2, p2tog, turn work, k4, turn. Continue working like this until turn, k2 has been worked, then turn. P1, p2tog, turn, k2, turn, p3tog. You should now have 1 stitch remaining. Repeat for the remaining blocks to complete the cast-off edge.

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

INISHMORE BY BRONAGH MISKELLY

3 4

C2F = place 1 st on cn and hold to front, k1, k1 from cn C4B = place 2 sts on cn and hold to back, k2, k2 from cn C4F = place 2 sts on cn and hold to front, k2, k2 from cn C6B = place 3 sts on cn and hold to back, k3, k3 from cn C6F = place 3 sts on cn and hold to front, k3, k3 from cn Tw3B = place 1 st on cn and hold to back, k2, p1 from cn Tw3F = place 2 sts on cn and hold to front, p1, k2 from cn

5 2 6 7 3 8 9

For more abbreviations see page 91 10 4

KNOT CABLE PATTERN

11 12 5 13 14

SIZES

15 6 16 17 7 18 19

To fit: UK 8[10:12:14:16:18:20:22] 81[86:91:97:102:107:112:117]cm (32[34:36:38:40:42:44:46]in) Actual measurement approx: 93[99:104:108:114:120:124:130]cm (36½[39:41:42½:44¾:47:48½:51]in) Length to shoulder: 54[55:56:56:57:58:58:60]cm (21¼[21¾:22:22:22½:22¾:22¾:23¾]in) Sleeve length: 46[47:47:47.5:48:49:49:50]cm (18[18½:18½:18¾:19:19¼:19¼:19¾]in) Figures in square brackets refer to larger sizes: where there is only one set of figures this applies to all sizes.

20 8

YOU WILL NEED

21 22 9 23 24

New Lanark Aran 100% new wool (approx 160m per 100g) 7[7:8:8:8:9:9:10] x 100g balls Oatmeal 1 pair each 4mm and 4.5mm needles 1 circular 4mm and 4.5mm circular needle Stitch holders Row counter Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

TENSION 25 10 26

20 sts and 24 rows to 10cm over st st using 4.5mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

27

ABBREVIATIONS

11 28

C2B = place 1 st on cable needle and hold to back, k1, k1 from cn

29

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Worked over 16 sts. Row 1 (RS): P2, C4F, p4, C4B, p2. Row 2 (WS): K2, p4, k4, p4, k2. Row 3: P1, Tw3B, Tw3F, p2, Tw3B, Tw3F, p1. Row 4: K1, (p2, k2) three times, p2, k1. Row 5: (Tw3B, p2, Tw3F) twice. Row 6: P2, k4, p4, k4, p2. Row 7: K2, p4, C4B, p4, k2. Row 8: As row 6. Row 9: K2, p4, k4, p4, k2. Row 10: As row 6. Row 11: As row 7. Row 12: As row 6. Row 13: (Tw3F, p2, Tw3B) twice. Row 14: As row 4. Row 15: P1, Tw3F, Tw3B, p2, Tw3F, Tw3B, p1. Row 16: As row 2. Row 17: As row 1. Row 18: As row 2. Row 19: As row 3. Row 20: As row 4. Row 21: P1, (k2, p2) three times, k2, p1. Row 22: As row 4. Row 23: As row 15. Row 24: As row 2.

HONEYCOMB STITCH

Worked over 4 sts. Row 1 (RS): (C2B, C2F) to end. Rows 2 and 4: Purl. Row 3: (C2F, C2B) to end.

BACK

With 4mm needles, cast on 102[106:114:116:122:130:134:138] sts. Row 1 (RS): (K2, p2) to last 2[2:2:0:2:2:2:2] sts, k2[2:2:0:2:2:2:2]. Row 2 (WS): P2[2:2:0:2:2:2:2], (k2, p2) to end. Rep rows 1 and 2 seven more times, then row 1 once more. Row 18 (WS): P6[8:8:10:12:12:14:14], m1p, p6[8:8:10:12:12:14:14], k5[4:5:5:4:5:5:6], p4, k4, p4, k4[4:5:4:4:5:4:5], p4, m1p, p4, k4[4:5:4:4:5:4:5], p4, m0[1:0:1:1:0:0:1], k4[2:4:2:2:4:4:2],

m0[1:0:1:1:0:0:1], p4, k4[4:5:4:4:5:4:5], p4, m1p, p4, k4[4:5:4:4:5:4:5], p4, k4, p4, k5[4:5:5:4:5:5:6], p6[8:8:10:12:12:14:14], m1p, p6[8:8:10:12:12:14:14]. 106[112:118:122:128:134: 138:144] sts. Change to 4.5mm needles and start cable pattern as folls: Row 1: K1, (C2B, C2F) 3[4:4:5:6:6:7:7] times, p3[2:3:3:2:3:3:4], work row 1 of Knot Cable Patt, p2[2:3:2:2:3:2:3], C6F, k3, p2[2:3:2:2:3:2:3], work row 1 of Knot Cable Patt, p2[2:3:2:2:3:2:3], k3, C6B, p2[2:3:2:2:3:2:3] work row 1 of Knot Cable Patt, p3[2:3:3:2:3:3:4], (C2B, C2F) 3[4:4:5:6:6:7:7] times, k1. Row 2: P13[17:17:21:25:25:29:29], k3[2:3:3:2:3:3:4], (work row 2 of Knot Cable Patt, k2[2:3:2:2:3:2:3], p9, p2[2:3:2:2:3:2:3]) twice, work row 2 of Knot Cable Patt, k3[2:3:3:2:3:3:4], p13[17:17:21:25:25:29:29]. Row 3: K1, (C2F, C2B) 3[4:4:5:6:6:7:7] times, p3[2:3:3:2:3:3:4], work row 3 of Knot Cable Patt, p2[2:3:2:2:3:2:3], k3, C6B, p2[2:3:2:2:3:2:3], work row 3 of Knot Cable Patt, p2[2:3:2:2:3:2:3], C6F, k3, p2[2:3:2:2:3:2:3] work row 3 of Knot Cable Patt, p3[2:3:3:2:3:3:4], (C2F, C2B) 3[4:4:5:6:6:7:7] times, k1. Row 4 and all WS rows: As row 2, working corresponding row in patt. These four rows set Knot Cable Patt. Cont in patt as set until Back meas 34[34:34.5:34:34:34:33:34]cm (13¼[13¼:13½:13¼:13¼:13¼:13:13¼]in) ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole

Keeping patt correct throughout, cast off 2[3:3:3:4:5:5:6] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 102[106:112:116:120:124:128:132] sts. Next row: K1, ssk, patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 100[104:110:114:118:122:126:130] sts. Next row: Patt to end. Dec as set on foll 1[2:2:2:3:4:6:7] RS rows. 98[100:106:110:112:114:114:116] sts*** Cont in patt until armhole meas 20[21:21.5:22:23:24:25:26]cm (7¾[8¼:8½:8¾:9:9½:9¾:10¼]in), ending with a WS row.

Shape shoulders

Next row (RS): Patt 29[29:32:33:34:34:34:34], cast off next 40[42:42:44:44:46:46:48] sts, patt to end. Next row (WS): Cast off 9[9:10:10:11:11:11:11] sts, patt 19[19:21:22:22:22:22:22] sts, turn and work on these 20[20:22:23:23:23:23:23] sts only, leaving rem sts on holder. Next row: K1, ssk, patt to end. 19[19:21:22:22:22:22:22] sts. Next row: Cast off 9[9:10:11:11:11:11:11] sts, patt to end. 10[10:11:11:11:11:11:11] sts. Next row: K1, ssk, patt to end. 9[9:10:10:10:10:10:10] sts.

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25/01/2017 16:35


cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2

Chart

1 3 4 5 2 6 7

Cast off. With RS facing, rejoin yarn to 29[29:32:33:34:34:34:34] sts for right shoulder sts, p1, p2tog, patt to end. 28[28:31:32:33:33:33:33] sts. Next row (WS): Cast off 9[9:10:10:11:11:11:11] sts, patt to end. 19[19:21:22:22:22:22:22] sts. Next row: P1, p2tog, patt to end. 18[18:20:21:21:21:21:21] sts Next row: Cast off 9[9:10:11:11:11:11:11] sts, patt to end. 9[9:10:10:10:10:10:10] sts. Cast off.

3

FRONT

8

Work as Back to ***. Cont in patt until armhole meas 10[10:10:11:11:11:12:13]cm (4[4:4:4¼:4¼:4¼:4¾:5]in), ending on a WS row.

9 10

Shape neck

4

Next row (RS): Patt 40[40:43:45:46:46:46:47], cast off 18[20:20:20:20:22:22:22] sts, patt to end, turn, work on these 40[40:43:45:46:46:46:47] sts only for right front neck. Next row (WS): Patt to end. Next row: Cast off 3 sts, patt to end. Rep last two rows once more. 34[34:37:39:40:40:40:41] sts. Dec 1 st at neck edge of foll 7[7:7:8:8:8:8:9] RS rows. 27[27:30:31:32:32:32:32] sts. Cont straight until armhole matches Back to shoulder shaping, ending with a RS row.

11 12 5 13 14 15 6

Shape shoulders

16

Next row: Cast off 9[9:10:10:11:11:11:11] sts, patt to end. Next row: Patt to end. Next row: Cast off 9[9:10:11:11:11:11:11] sts, patt to end. Next row: Patt to end. Cast off rem 9[9:10:10:10:10:10:10] sts. Rejoin yarn to left shoulder sts with RS facing. Patt to end. Next row (RS): Patt to end. Next row: Cast off 3 sts, patt to end. Rep last two rows once more. 34[34:37:39:40:40:40:41] sts. Complete left shoulder to match right, reversing all shaping.

17 7 18 19 20 8 21 22

SLEEVES

9 23

Key 24

RS: knit WS: purl

C4B

Tw3B

RS: purl WS: knit

C4F

Tw3F

25 10 26

27

With 4mm needles, cast on 46[46:46:50:50:50:54:54] sts. Row 1 (RS): K2, (p2, k2) to end. Row 2 (WS): P2, (k2, p2) to end. Rep rows 1 and 2 seven more times then row 1 once more. Row 18 (WS): P3[3:3:5:5:5:5:5], k2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], p4, m1p, p4, k4[4:4:4:4:4:5:5], p4, k4, p4, k4[4:4:4:4:4:5:5], p4, m1p, p4, k2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], p3[3:3:5:5:5:5:5]. 48[48:48:52:52:52:56:56] sts. Change to 4.5mm needles and start cable pattern as folls: Row 1: K1, (C2B) 0[0:0:1:1:1:1:1] time, C2F, p2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], C6F, k3, p2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3],

11 28

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53

29

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23/01/2017 16:44


cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1 3 4 5 2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11 12 5 13 14

k3, C6B, p2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], C2B, (C2F) 0[0:0:1:1:1:1:1] time, k1. Row 2: P3[3:3:5:5:5:5:5], k2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], p9, k2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], work Knot Cable Patt, k2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], p9, k2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], p3[3:3:5:5:5:5:5]. Row 3: K1, (C2F) 0[0:0:1:1:1:1:1] time, C2B, p2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], k3, C6B, p2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], work Knot Cable Patt, p2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], C6F, k3, p2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], C2F, (C2B) 0[0:0:1:1:1:1:1] time, k1. Row 4 and all WS rows: As row 2. Row 5 (inc): K1, m1, (C2B) 0[0:0:1:1:1:1:1] time, C2F, p2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], C6F, k3, p2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], work Knot Cable Patt, p2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], k3, C6B, p2[2:2:2:2:2:3:3], C2B, (C2F) 0[0:0:1:1:1:1:1] time, m1, k1. 50[50:50:54:54:54:58:58] sts. These five rows set cable and inc positions. Cont in patt as set, inc at each end of foll 0[0:0:0:0:0:6:8] RS rows, then on every 4th row 12[19:21:19:21:23:17:17] times and on every 6th row 5[0:0:0:0:0:0:0] times. 84[88:92:92:96:100:104:112] sts. Work all inc sts in Honeycomb St as set by preceding rows. Cont straight until Sleeve meas 46[47:47:47.5:48:49:49:50]cm (18[18½:18½:18¾:19:19¼:19¼:19¾]in) from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape top

15

Cast off 2[3:3:3:4:5:5:6] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 80[82:86:86:88:90:94:96] sts.

Next row (RS): K1, ssk, patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 78[80:84:84:86:88:92:94] sts. Next row: P1, p2tog, patt to last three sts, p2tog tbl, p1. Rep last two rows once more. 72[74:78:78:80:82:86:88] sts. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 66[68:72:72:74:76:80:82] sts. Cast off.

COWL NECK

Join shoulder seams. With RS facing using 4mm circular needle pick up and k22[22:22:25:25:27:27:28] sts down Front neck, pick up and k16[18:18:18:18:20:20:20] across front cast off, 22[22:22:25:25:27:27:28] sts up right Front neck, 5 sts down right Back neck, 34[36:36:38:38:40:40:42] sts across Back, 5 sts up left Back neck. 104[108:108:116:116:124:124:128] sts. Rnd 1: Pm for start of rnd, (k2, p2) to end. Work 14 more rnds in rib. Change to 4.5mm needle and cont until 32 rib rnds are complete. Cast off loosely in rib.

TO FINISH

Gently steam pieces into shape, being careful not to flatten cables. Weave in ends. Join side and Sleeve seams, sew in Sleeves.●

6 16 17 7 18

Measurements are given in cm 19 9 23 24 25 10 26

34[34:34.5:34:34:34:33:34]

22

54[55:56:56:57:58:58:60]

21

46[47:47:47.5:48:49:49:50]

8

20[21:21.5:22:23:24:25:26]

20 27

46.5[49.5:52:54:57:60:62:65] 11 28 29

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£9.99 The

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

HEBRIDEAN BY FRANCESCA HUGHES

3

ABBREVIATIONS 4

C2F = cable 2 front: slip next st to cn and hold at front of work, k1, k1 from cn C2B = cable 2 back: slip next st to cn and hold at back of work, k1, k1 from cn M1L = insert the LH needle, from front to back, under the strand of yarn between the stitch just worked and the next stitch on the LH needle and knit into it M1R = insert the LH needle, from back to front, under the strand of yarn which runs between the stitch just worked and the next stitch on the LH needle and knit into it

5 2 6 7 3 8 9

For more abbreviations see page 91

TIPS 10

Use stitch markers to separate each cable panel.

4 11

CABLE PANEL

12 5 13 14

SIZES

15 6 16 17 7 18 19 20

To fit: UK 8[10:12:14:16-18:22-24:26:28] 81[86:91:97:102-107:117-122:127:134]cm (32[34:36:38:40-42:46-48:50:53]in) Actual measurement: 85[90:99:104:113:127:132:141]cm (33½[35½:39:41:44½:50:52:55½]in) with 5-10cm (2-4in) positive ease. Length to shoulder approx: 52[53:54:55:63:64.5:64.5:66]cm (20½[21:21¼:21½:24¾:25½:25½:26]in) Sleeve length: 42[43:43:43:44.5:44.5:46:47] cm (16½[17:17:17:17½:17½:18:18½]in) Figures in square brackets refer to larger sizes: where there is only one set of figures this applies to all sizes.

8 21

YOU WILL NEED

22 9 23 24

Daughter of a Shepherd DK 75% Hebridean wool, 25% Zwartbles (approx 333m per 100g) 4[4:5:5:5:6:6:6] x 100g skeins undyed 1 pair each 3.5mm and 4mm needles Stitch holders Cable needle Row counter Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

25 10

TENSION

26 27

23 sts and 32 rows to 10cm over cable patt using 4mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

11 28 29

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Worked over 16 sts plus 4. Figures in square brackets show pattern repeat. Row 1 (WS): K1, p2, [k4, p6, k4, p2] k1. Row 2: P1, [C2F, p4, (C2F) three times, p4] C2F, p1. Row 3: As row 1. Row 4: P1 [k2, p3, (C2B) three times, C2F, p3] k2, p1. Row 5: K1, p2 [k3, p8, k3, p2] k1. Row 6: P1 [C2F, p2, (C2B) three times, (C2F) three times, p2] C2F, p1. Row 7: K1, p2, [k2, p3, k1, p2, k1, p3, k2, p2] k1. Row 8: P1, [k2, p1, (C2B) twice, p1, k2, p1, (C2F) twice, p1] k2, p1. Row 9: K1, p2, [k1, p3, k2, p2, k2, p3, k1, p2] k1. Row 10: P1, C2F, (C2B) twice, p2, C2F, p2, (C2F) twice] C2F, p1. Row 11: P3, [p3, k3, p2, k3, p5] p1. Row 12: [(C2B) three times, p3, k2, p3, C2F] (C2B) twice. Row 13: P3, [p2, k4, p2, k4, p4] p1. Row 14: K1, [(C2F) twice, p4, C2F, p4, C2F] C2F, k1. Row 15: P3, [p2, k4, p2, k4, p4] p1. Row 16: [(C2B) twice, C2F, p3, k2, p3, C2B] (C2B) twice. Row 17: K1, p2 [p3, k3, p2, k3, p5] k1. Row 18: P1, [(C2F) three times, p2, C2F, p2, (C2B) twice] C2F, p1. Row 19: K1, p2, [k1, p3, k2, p2, k2, p3, k1, p2] k1. Row 20: P1, [k2, p1, (C2F) twice, p1, k2, p1, (C2B) twice, p1] k2, p1. Row 21: K1, p2, [k2, p3, k1, p2, k1, p3, k2, p2] k1. Row 22: P1 [C2F, p2, (C2F) three times, (C2B) twice, p2] C2F, p1. Row 23: K1, p2, [k3, p8, k3, p2] k1. Row 24: P1 [k2, p3, (C2F) twice, (C2B) twice, p3] k2, p1.

BACK AND FRONT (BOTH ALIKE)

Using 4mm needles, cast on 96[102:114:120:129:144:153:162] sts. Row 1 (RS): (K2, p1) to end. Row 2: (K2, p1) to end. Rep rows 1 and 2 four more times, ending with a RS row. Row 11: (K2, p1) three times, dec 0[0:2:2:1:0:3:2] sts evenly across row to last 9 sts, (k2, p1) to end. 96[102:112:118:128:144:150:160] sts. Row 12 (WS): (K2, p1) 2[3:2:3:2:2:3:2] times, pm, work row 1 of Cable Patt to last 6[9:6:9:6:6:9:6] sts, (k2, p1) to end. Work rows 2 to 24 of Cable Patt, maintaining 6[9:6:9:6:6:9:6] rib sts at each end, and then rep rows 1 to 24 until 4[4:4:4:5:5:5:5] full reps have been completed. Work should meas approx 30[30:30:30:37.5:37.5:37.5:37.5]cm (11¾[11¾:11¾:11¾:14¾:14¾:14¾:14¾]in)

Shape armhole

Note: Work all new sts in st st until enough sts have been made to work in rib as set: Cast on 3[3:3:6:6:2:2:2] sts at beg of next two rows. 102[108:118:130:140:148:154:164] sts. Cast on 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 108[114:124:136:146:154:160:170] sts. Inc one st at each end of next RS row. 110[116:126:139:148:156:162:172] sts. Cont in patt until armhole meas 18.5[19.5:20.5:21.5:22.5:24:24:25.5]cm, (7¼[7¾:8:8½:8¾:9½:9½:10]in) from first armhole cast on, ending with a WS row. Next row: K1[1:2:2:2:1:0:2], (k2, p1) to last 1[1:2:2:2:1:0:2] sts, k1[1:2:2:2:1:0:2]. Next row: P1[1:2:2:2:1:0:2], (k2, p1) to last 1[1:2:2:2:1:0:2] sts, p1[1:2:2:2:1:0:2]. Rep last two rows 4 more times. Next row: Place 22[24:24:30:28:18:14:14] sts on holder for left shoulder. Cast off next 66[68:78:78:92:120:134:144] sts for neck. Place 22[24:24:30:28:18:14:14] sts on st holder for right shoulder.

SLEEVES

Using 3.5mm needles, cast on 48[51:54:57:60:63:66:69] sts. Row 1: (K2, p1) to end. Inc row (RS): K1, M1R, patt to last st, M1L, sm, k1. 50[53:56:59:62:65:68:71] sts. Next row: Sl1, sm, patt to last st, sm, p1. Work 10 rows without shaping. Rep last 12 rows 10[7:7:7:9:9:11:11] more times. 60[67:70:73:80:83:90:93] sts. Inc at each end of next and every foll 10th row 0[4:4:4:2:2:0:0] times. 60[54:57:57:60:66:69:72] sts. Cont in patt until Sleeve meas 42[43:43:43:44.5:44.5:46:47]cm (16½[17:17:17:17½:17½:18:18½]in) from cast-on edge. Cast off in rib.

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

TO FINISH

3

Join shoulders using 3-needle cast off. Sew side seams to desired point for split, leaving the rest of the length open. Seam Sleeves and sew on. Weave in ends. â—?

4

18.5[19.5:20.5:21.5:22.5:24:24:25.5]

7

42[43:43:43:44.5:44.5:46:47]

6 3 8 9 10 4

30[30:30:30:37.5:37.5:37.5:37.5]

2

52[53:54:55:63:64.5:64.5:66]

5

Measurements are given in cm

11

42.5[45:49.5:52:56.5:63.5:66:70.5]

Chart

12

Key

5

RS: knit WS: purl

13 14

RS: purl WS: knit

15 6

Cable rep 16

C2F 17 7 18

C2B

19 20 8 21 22 9 23 24 25

2

Read odd (WS) rows from L to R Read even (RS) rows from R to L

27

1

4

26

3

10

Welt Rib

11 28

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57

29

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

CARRIE BY JO ALLPORT

3 4 5 2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11 12 5 13 14

SIZE

42 x 140cm (16½ x 55¼in) after blocking. 15 6

YOU WILL NEED

16 17 7 18

Rico Fashion Silk Blend 45% cotton, 45% silk, 10% polyamide (220m per 50g) 4 x 50g balls in shade 005 1 pair 5mm knitting needles Cable needle Yarn needle Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

Knit 5 rows. Work in patt as folls, using the written or charted instructions: Row 1 (RS): Knit. Rows 2, 12, 14 and 24: K2, p66, k2. Rows 3 and 11: K6, *C4B, k8; rep from * to

Chart

last 4 sts, k4. Rows 4, 6, 8 and 10: K4, *k8, p4; rep from * to last 6 sts, k6. Rows 5 and 9: K2, (yo, k2tog) twice, *k4, (yo, k2tog) 4 times; rep from * to last 4 sts, yo, k2tog, k2. Row 7: K2, (k2tog, yo) twice, *C4B, (k2tog, yo) 4 times; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2tog, yo, k2. Row 13: Knit. Rows 15 and 23: K6, *k6, C4F, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4. Rows 16, 18, 20 and 22: K4, *k2, p4, k6; rep from * to last 6 sts, k6. Rows 17 and 21: K2, (yo, k2tog) twice, *(yo, k2tog) 3 times, k4, yo, k2tog; rep from * to last 4 sts, yo, k2tog, k2. Row 19: K2, (k2tog, yo) twice, *(k2tog, yo) 3 times, C4F, k2tog, yo: rep from * to last 4 sts, k2tog, yo, k2. Row 24: As row 2. Rep these 24 rows till work meas approx 128cm (50½in) unblocked length, ending with a WS row and measured from the caston edge. Knit 5 rows. Work picot cast off as folls: Next row (WS): Cast off 2 sts, *cast on 2 sts, cast off 5 sts; rep from * to last 2 sts, cast off these sts.

TO FINISH

Block to size measurements. Weave in ends.●

Key RS: knit WS: purl

19

RS: purl WS: knit

TENSION

20 8 21

17 sts and 32 rows to 10cm (4in) over blocked pattern using 5mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

C4B C4F

ABBREVIATIONS

yo

22 9 23 24

C4B = cable 4 back: slip 2 sts on to a cable needle and hold at the back, k2, then k2 from the cable needle C4F = cable 4 front: slip 2 sts on to a cable needle and hold at the front, k2, then k2 from the cable needle

RS: k2tog 12 st patt rep

For more abbreviations see page 91

25

WRAP 10

26 27 11 28

With 5mm needles, cast on 70 sts using a picot cast on as folls: *Cast on 5 sts using cable or knitted cast-on method, cast off 2 sts (1 st on RH needle), pass this st back to the LH needle; rep from * until there are 69 sts, cast on 1 more st.

29

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

FLORES BY JO ALLPORT

3

PATTERN NOTES

4 5 2 6 7 3

When working decreases, work ssk at the beginning and k2tog at the end of a knit row, and p2tog at the beginning and p2tog tbl at the end of a purl row. When working increases in first/last st, if it is a knit st, knit into the front and back of it, if the stitch is a purl, purl into the front and back of it. For a masterclass on the drop stitch cable pattern, see page 62.

8

Cable Pattern

16 17 7 18 19 20 8 21 22

BACK

24 25 10 26

27

**With 4.5mm needles, cast on 85[90:95:100:106:111:116:121] sts. Work in g st for 4cm (1½in), working an odd number of rows. Next row (RS) (inc): K10[11:11:12:13:13:12:14], (m1, k2) to last 9[11:10:12:13:12:12:13] sts, m1, k9[11:10:12:13:12:12:13]. 119[125:133:139:147:155:163:169] sts. Change to 5mm needles. Working the first and last 0[3:7:10:1:5:9:12] sts in rev st st, work Cable Pattern set-up row. This is shown as row 0 on the chart and is a WS row. This row sets position of Cable Pattern.**

9 23 29

59

11 28

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 59

6

knittingmag.com

15

For more abbreviations see page 91

14

C11 = 11 st cable: slip 6 sts on to cn and hold at back, k1, p1, k2, then work (p1, k2) twice from the sts on cn

13

ABBREVIATIONS

5

25 sts and 23 rows to 10cm over Cable Pattern using 5mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

12

TENSION

11

Sublime Evie 94% cotton, 6% nylon (approx 115m per 50g) 10[10:11:11:12:12:13:13] x 50g balls in 511 Marisol 1 pair each 4.5mm and 5mm needles Cable needle 2 stitch holders Row counter Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

4

YOU WILL NEED

10

To fit: UK size 8[10:12:14:16:18:20:22] 81[86:91:97:102:107:112:117]cm (32[34:36:38:40:42:44:46]in) Actual measurement: 93[99:105:111:117:123:129:134]cm (36¾[39:41½:43¾:46:48¼:50½:53]in) Length to shoulder: 50[51:52:53:54:55:56:56]cm (19¾[20:20½:21:21¼:21¾:22:22]in) Sleeve length: 31[33:34:34:36:38:39:40]cm (12½[12¾:13½:13½:14¼:14¾:15¼:15½]in)

9

SIZE

Multiples of 26 + 15 sts and 24 rows plus one set-up row. Set-up row (WS) (shown as row 0 on Chart): K2, (p2, k1) 3 times, p2, k2, *(p1, p2tog, yo) 3 times, p2, k2, (p2, k1) 3 times, p2, k2: rep from * to end. Row 1 (RS): [P2, (k2, p1) 3 times, k2] to last 2 sts, p2. Rows 2, 4, 6, 12, 14, 16 and 18: K2, (p2, k1) 3 times, p2, k2, *(p2, k1) 3 times, p2, k2; rep from * to end. Rows 3, 5, 9, 13, 15, 17 and 21: [P2, (k2, p1) 3 times, k2] to last 2 sts, p2. Rows 7 and 23: [P2, C11, p2, (k2, p1) 3 times, k2] to last 15 sts, p2, C11, p2. Row 8: K2, (p1, p2tog, yo) 3 times, p2, k2, *(p2, k1) 3 times, p2, k2, (p1, p2tog, yo) 3 times, p2, k2; rep from * to end. Row 10: K2, (p2, k1) 3 times, p2, k2, *(p2, drop st from needle to make a ladder, yo) 3 times, p2, k2, (p2, k1) 3 times, p2, k2; rep from * to end. Rows 11 and 19: [P2, (k2, p1) 3 times, k2, p2, C11] to last 15 sts, p2, (k2, p1) 3 times, k2, p2. Row 20: K2, (p2, k1) 3 times, p2, k2, *(p1, p2tog, yo) 3 times, p2, k2, (p2, k1) 3 times, p2, k2; rep from * to end. Row 22: K2, (p2, drop st from needle to make a ladder, yo) 3 times, p2, k2, *(p2, k1) 3 times, p2, k2, (p2, drop st from needle to make a ladder, yo) 3 times, p2, k2; rep from * to end. Row 24: As row 2. These 24 rows set patt and are repeated.

19/01/2017 12:12


cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1 3

Work in Cable Pattern as set until work meas 50[51:52:53:54:55:56:56]cm (19¾[20:20½:21:21¼:21¾:22:22]in), ending with a WS row measured from cast-on edge.

4

Shape shoulders

5 2 6 7

Cast off 5[5:5:6:6:7:7:8] sts at beg of next 12[8:2:10:2:8:2:10] rows. 59[85:123:79:135:99:149:89] sts. Cast off 0[6:6:7:7:8:8:9] sts at beg of next 0[4:10:2:10:4:10:2] rows. 59[61:63:65:65:67:69:71] sts. Put rem sts on a holder.

Shape shoulder Cast off 5[5:5:6:6:7:7:8] sts at beg of next 6[4:1:5:1:4:1:5] RS rows. 0[12:30:7:35:16:40:9] sts. Cast off 0[6:6:7:7:8:8:9] sts at beg of next 0[2:5:1:5:2:5:1] RS rows.

Shape right neck

3

FRONT

8

Work from ** to ** as for Back. Now work in Cable Pattern as set until work meas 42[43:44:45:46:47:48:48]cm (16½[17:17¼:17¾:18:18½:19:19]in), ending with a WS row measured from cast-on edge.

9 10

Shape left neck 4

11 12 5

Patt 35[37:40:42:46:49:52:54] sts, turn and put rem sts on to a holder. Working on these 35[37:40:42:46:49:52:54] sts only, dec 1 st at neck edge on every WS row until 30[32:35:37:41:44:47:49] sts rem. Work straight until Front meas same as Back to shoulder, ending with a WS row.

With RS facing, leave centre 49[51:53:55:55:57:59:61] sts on a holder, rejoin yarn to rem 35[37:40:42:46:49:52:54] sts at neck edge and patt to end. Dec 1 st at neck edge on every WS row till 30[32:35:37:41:44:47:49] sts rem. Work straight until Front meas same as Back to shoulder, ending with a RS row.

Shape shoulder

Cast off 5[5:5:6:6:7:7:8] sts at the beg of the next 6[4:1:5:1:4:1:5] WS rows. Cast off 0[6:6:7:7:8:8:9] sts at the beg of the next 0[2:5:1:5:2:5:1] WS rows.

SLEEVES

13

With 4.5mm needles, cast on 54[57:60:60:62:63:66:69] sts. Work in g st for 3cm (1¼in), working an odd number of rows. Next row (RS) (inc): K5[6:6:6:5:7:7:8], (m1, k2) to last 5[5:6:6:5:6:7:7] sts, m1, k5[5:6:6:5:6:7:7].

77[81:85:85:89:89:93:97] sts. Change to 5mm needles. Working first and last 5[7:9:9:11:11:0:2] sts in rev st st, work Cable Pattern set-up row. This is shown as row 0 on Chart and is a WS row. Work 6 rows in Cable Pattern as set. Inc row (RS): Inc in first st, patt to last st, inc in last st. 79[83:87:87:91:91:95:99] sts. Working inc’d sts in rev st st, inc as set at each end of every foll 16th[12th:12th:12th:12th:12th:12th:10th] row till there are 85[91:95:95:101:101:105:111] sts. Work without shaping until Sleeve meas 31[33:34:34:36:38:39:40]cm (12½[12¾:13½:13½:14¼:14¾:15¼:15½]in), ending with a WS row. Cast off all sts.

NECKBAND

Sew right shoulder seam. With 4.5mm needles, and RS facing, pick up and k18 sts along right front neck, k49[51:53:55:55:57:59:61] sts from Front holder, pick up and k18 sts along left front neck and k59[61:63:65:65:67:69:71] sts from Back stitch holder. 144[148:152:156:156:160:164:168] sts.

Chart 14 15 6 16 17 7 18 19 20 8 21 22 9 23 24 25 10 26 27

Key

11 28

RS: knit WS: purl

29

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K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 60

RS: purl WS: knit

yo

RS: k2tog WS: p2tog

11 st cable

Drop st off needle and yo

26 st patt rep

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2

Next row (WS) (dec): K0[3:2:0:0:3:2:0], (k2tog, k1) 19[18:19:21:21:20:21:23] times, k2tog, k0[2:2:0:0:2:2:0] (back), k18 (side), k1[2:2:3:3:3:4:4], (k2tog) 23[23:24:24:24:25:25:26] times, k2tog, k0[1:1:2:2:2:3:3] (front), k18 (side). 100[105:107:109:109:113:116:117] sts. Work in g st until neckline meas 3cm (1¼in), ending with a RS row. Cast off.

1

SAND CABLE WRAP BY BRIAN SMITH

3 4 5 2 6 7

TO FINISH

3

Sew right shoulder and neckline. Insert Sleeve by measuring 17[18:19:19:20:20:21:22]cm (6¾[7:7½:7½:7¾:7¾:8¼:8¾]in) along each seam from shoulder seam and sewing the Sleeves between these points. Sew Sleeve and side seams. Block lightly if required. Weave in ends. See ball band for further care instructions. ●

8 9 10 4 11 12 5 13 14

SIZE

15

Approx 195 x 40cm (77 x 16in)

6 20 22

42[43:44:45:46:47:48:48]

50[51:52:53:54:55:56:56]

31[33:34:34:36:38:39:40]

24 25

For more abbreviations see page 91

9 23 10

WRAP

26

27 11 28

61

29

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 61

21

C6F = Cable 6 front: slip next 3 sts on to cn and hold in front of work, k next 3 sts, then k sts from cn C6B = Cable 6 back: slip next 3 sts on to cn and hold at back of work, k next 3 sts, then k3 sts from cn

knittingmag.com

8

ABBREVIATIONS

Measurements are given in cm

19

14 sts and 16 rows to 10cm over pattern using 6.5mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

Using 6.5mm needles cast on 38 sts. Next row: K33, pm, k2, yfwd, sl3p. Next row: K to end, slipping marker. Next row: K to marker, sm, k to last 3 sts, yfwd, sl3p.

7 18

TENSION

46.5[49.5:52.5:55.5:58.5:61.5:64.5:67]cm

17

Cascade Baby Alpaca Chunky 100% baby alpaca (99m per 100g) 5 x 100g skeins in 647 Grape Compote 1 pair of 6.5mm needles Cable needle Stitch marker Yarn needle Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

16

YOU WILL NEED

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1 3 4

KNITTING MASTERCLASS:

5 2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11

This pattern produces a lovely all-over open cable pattern, with alternating drop stitch sections and closed sections. Dropping stitches off your needle can be a bit alarming, but reassuringly they will only ladder to the last yarn over.

1

1. This image shows the preparation row, only worked as you start to knit in this stitch pattern. It shows three yarn over and p2tog stitches.

12 5

4

13 14 15 6 16 17 7 18

4. Still on row 7, work (p1, k2) twice with the stitches from the cable needle. This keeps the rib pattern correct on the RS of your work. Row 8 is worked the same as the preparation row over the relevant rib column, working the yo and p2tog stitches, as in image 1. Work row 9, purling the yarn over from the row below and knitting the p2tog.

19 20

7 8

21 22 9 23 24 25

7. At the end of row 10, this shows the three columns of dropped stitches.

10 26 27 11 28 29

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cm 1 2

Quick Technique by Jo Allport

1 3 4

DROP STITCH CABLE

in

PATTERNS

5 2

3

6

2

7 3 8 9 10 4 12

6

5 13

5

3. On row 7, work the cable stitch on the relevant column of rib stitches. The cable is worked over 11 stitches, with six stitches held at the back on a cable needle. Work k2, p1, k2.

11

2. On row 1, work each cable as a three-stitch rib of two knit stitches and a purl stitch, and purl the yarn overs from the previous row, in this case the preparation row. Continue to work the rib pattern over the next ďŹ ve rows.

14 15 6 16 17

6. Still on row 10, drop the stitch off the needle, and it will unravel to the previous yarn over – in this case, worked on the preparation row. It may need a bit of pulling to release the ladder.

7 18

5. Row 10 is the row where the stitches are dropped off the needle. The image shows the next stitch and the original yarn over from the preparation row. This is the stitch to drop off your needle.

19 20

8

9

8 21 22 9 23 24 27 11 28 29

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 63

63

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10

9. At the end of row 11, the cable stitch has been worked and the ladders are visible. Work seven rows of the ribbed pattern, then work the cable stitch over the relevant column. Set up for the laddered cable on the next row by working the yarn over and p2tog on the following row. Work one row, then drop the stitch as in image 5 in the appropriate column, then work the cable stitch on the following row. Work one more row to complete the 24-row pattern (not including the preparation row).

25

8. On row 11, work the cable stitch as before over 11 stitches.

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

CHAMOMILE BY EMMA WRIGHT

3 4 5 2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11

Next row: K to end slipping marker. Next row: K3, kfb, *k4, kfb; rep from * to 4 sts before marker, k4, sm, k to last 3 sts, yfwd, sl3p (44 sts).

12 5

Increase section

13 14 15 6 16 17 7 18

While working the patt below, inc in row 1 and every foll 6th row as foll: K3, kfb, cont to work row as written. Row 1 (RS): K to marker, sm, k to end. Row 2: K3, p to marker, sm, p to last 3 sts, sl3p. Row 3: K to marker, sm, *C6F, k6; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Row 4: As row 2. Row 5: As row 1. Row 6: As row 2. Row 7: K to marker, sm, *k6, C6B; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Row 8: As row 2. Rep rows 1-8 for a total of 96 rows (60 sts).

SIZES

To fit: UK size 8-10[12-14:16-18:20-22] [81-86[92-96:102-106:112-116]cm (32-34[36-38:40-42:44-46]in) Actual measurement: 86[96:106:116]cm (34[38:42:46]in) Length to shoulder: 50[52:56:60]cm (19¾[20½:22:23¾]in)

YOU WILL NEED

Shilasdair Luxury DK 10% cashmere, 10% baby camel, 40% angora, 40% Merino lambswool (approx 300m per 100g) 2[3:3:4] x 100g balls in Tansy Gold 1 pair 4mm needles Stitch holders Row counter Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

19

Straight section

Work rows 1-8, without increases, for a total of 88 rows.

20

Decrease section 8

21 22 9 23

Cont working the patt, dec in row 1 and every foll 6th row as foll: k3, ssk, cont to work row as written. Work rows 1-8 for a total of 96 rows (44 sts). Work rows 1 and 2 once more without decs. Remove marker on last row. Next row (RS): K3, ssk, *k5, ssk; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4 (38 sts).

TENSION

24

TO FINISH

ABBREVIATIONS

25

Next row: K to last 3 sts, yfwd, sl3p. Next row: K to end. Rep last 2 rows once more.

20 sts and 30 rows to 10cm over st st using 4mm needles. 19 sts and 30 rows to 10cm over linen st using 4mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

10 26

MB = make bobble: (k1, p1, k1, p1) all in next st, turn, p4, turn, k4, turn, p2tog twice, turn, k2tog yb = with yarn at back

Cast off loosely and weave in all ends. It is essential to block this garment to the finished measurements. ●

27 11 28

For more abbreviations see page 91

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 4 11

LEFT ARMBAND With RS facing, starting at beg of armhole shaping on Front and using 4mm needles pick up and k45[45:47:49] sts evenly to shoulder seam and then pick up and k45[45:47:49] sts evenly from shoulder seam to end of armhole shaping on Back. 90[90:94:98] sts. Row 1 (WS): P2, (k2, p2) to end. Row 2: K2, (p2, k2) to end. Repeat these 2 rows once more. Cast off in rib.

12 5 13 14 15 6 16

TO FINISH

19 20

Measurements are given in cm

8 9 23 25

30[32:34:36]

24

50[52:56:60]

22

20[20:22:24]

21 10 26 27 11 28

43[48:53:58]

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 65

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7 18

Press/block using preferred method, taking care not to flatten bobbles too much. Join both side seams including armbands and then fasten off any loose ends. Press/block again if needed. ●

17

Cast off 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 74[84:94:104] sts. Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows. 66[76:86:96] sts.

Join left shoulder seam. Using 4mm needles, pick up and k27[33:35:41] sts left on holder at Back neck, pick up and k19[20:23:24] sts down left Front neck, pick up and k13 sts on holder at Front neck, then pick up and k19[20:23:24] sts up

10

Shape armhole

NECKBAND

9

Using 4mm needles, cast on 86[96:106:116] sts. Sizes 1 and 3 only Row 1 (RS): K2, (p2, k2) to end. Row 2: P2, (k2, p2) to end. Sizes 2 and 4 only Row 1 (RS): K1, (k2, p2) to last 3 sts, k3. Row 2: K1, (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p2, k1. All sizes Rep these 2 rows five more times. Beg with a k row cont in st st until work meas approx 30[32:34:36]cm (12[12¾:13½:14¼]in) from cast-on edge, ending with RS facing.

8

FRONT

With RS facing, starting at beg of armhole shaping on Back and using 4mm needles, pick up and k45[45:47:49] sts evenly to shoulder seam and then pick up and k45[45:47:49] sts evenly from shoulder seam to end of armhole shaping on Front. 90[90:94:98] sts. Row 1 (WS): P2, (k2, p2) to end. Row 2: K2, (p2, k2) to end. Repeat these 2 rows once more. Cast off in rib.

3

Keeping linen st correct throughout, cont as folls: Cast off 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 69[79:89:99] sts Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows. 61[71:81:91] sts Dec 1 st at each end of next 2 RS rows. 57[67:77:87] sts Cont straight in linen st until armhole meas approx 20[20:22:24]cm (8[8:8¾:9½]in) from beg of armhole shaping, ending with RS facing. Cast off 15[17:21:23] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 27[33:35:41] sts. Leave rem 27[33:35:41] sts on a holder for Neckband.

RIGHT ARMBAND 7

Shape armhole

Join right shoulder seam. 6

Row 1 (RS): K1, (yf, sl1 kwise, yb, k1) to end. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K2, (yf, sl1 kwise, yb, k1) to last st, k1. Row 4: Purl. These 4 rows repeated form linen st. Cont in linen st until work meas approx 30[32:34:36]cm (12[12¾:13½:14¼]in) from cast-on edge, ending with RS facing.

Keeping bobble placement correct throughout: Next row (RS): Patt 24[29:34:39] sts, turn leaving next 13 sts on a holder for neckband and rem 24[29:34:39] sts on a holder for second side of neck. Next row (WS): Cast off 4[7:8:11] sts, p to end. 20[22:26:28] sts. Work 1 row keeping bobble placement correct. Next row (WS): Cast off 4 sts, p to end. 16[18:22:24] sts. Work 1 row keeping bobble placement correct. Next row (WS): P2tog, p to end. 15[17:21:23] sts. Work 1 row keeping bobble placement correct. Cont straight in st st until armhole meas approx 20[20:22:24]cm (8[8:8¾:9½]in) from beg of armhole shaping ending with RS facing. Cast off. Rejoin yarn to 24[29:34:39] sts left on a holder and keeping bobble placement correct, work second side of neck as folls: Next row (RS): Cast off 4[7:8:11] sts, patt to end. 20[22:26:28] sts. Work 1 row. Next row (RS): Cast off 4 sts, patt to end. 16[18:22:24] sts. Work 1 row. Next row (RS): K2tog, patt to end. 15[17:21:23] sts. Cont straight in st st until armhole meas approx 20[20:22:24]cm (8[8:8¾:9½]in) from beg of armhole shaping ending with RS facing. Cast off.

ARMBANDS

2

Set linen stitch

Shape neck

5

Using 4mm needles, cast on 86[96:106:116] sts. Sizes 1 and 3 only Row 1 (RS): K2, (p2, k2) to end. Row 2: P2, (k2, p2) to end. Sizes 2 and 4 only Row 1 (RS): K1, (k2, p2) to last st 3 sts, k3. Row 2: K1, (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p2, k1. All sizes Rep these 2 rows four more times then work row 1 again. Next row (WS): P14[15:16:17], (p2tog, p12[14:16:18]) four times, p2tog, p14[15:16:17]. 81[91:101:111] sts.

right Front neck to shoulder. 78[86:94:102] sts. Row 1 (WS): P2, (k2, p2) to end. Row 2: K2, (p2, k2) to end. Rep these 2 rows twice more. Cast off in rib.

4

BACK

Dec 1 st at each end of next 2 RS rows. 62[72:82:92] sts. Next row (WS): Purl. Dec 1 st only at beg of next row. 61[71:81:91] sts. Cont straight in st st until armhole meas approx 10[10:12:14]cm (4[4:4¾:5½]in) from beg of armhole shaping ending with RS facing. **Next row (RS): K14[17:20:23], MB, (k15[17:19:21], MB) twice, k14[17:20:23]. Work 5 rows in st st. Next row (RS): K6[8:10:12], MB, (k15[17:19:21], MB) three times, k6[8:10:12]. Work 5 rows in st st. These last 12 rows from ** form bobble placement. Work 6 more rows of bobble placement.

3

It is important to match your stitch tension as closely as possible over st st and linen st to get the best fit on your finished garment.

1

TIPS

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

LOWENA BY SARAH DENNIS

3 4

T4R = sl next 2 sts on to cn and hold at back of work, k2, then p2 from cn C4B = sl next 2 sts on to cn and hold at back of work, k2, then k2 from cn C4F = sl next 2 sts on to cn and hold at front of work, k2, then k2 from cn

5 2 6

For more abbreviations see page 91

7

TIPS 3

You may find it useful to use st markers to separate each cable panel.

8

CABLE PANEL 9 10 4 11 12 5 13 14

SIZES

15

To fit: UK size 8-10[10-12:14-16:18-20] Actual measurement: 91[101:111:121]cm (36[40:44:48]in) Length to shoulder: 60[60:63:65]cm (23½[23½:24¾:25½]in) Sleeve length: 48[48:50:50]cm (19[19:19½:19½]in)

6 16 17 7 18

YOU WILL NEED

19

Debbie Bliss Rialto DK 100% wool (approx 105m per 50g) 14[16:19:21] x 50g balls 23085 Lilac 1 pair each 3mm and 3.75mm needles Stitch markers Cable needle 7 buttons Row counter Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

20 8 21 22

TENSION

9 23

22 sts and 32 rows to 10cm over st st using 3.75mm needles. Cable panel of 30 sts measures 9.5cm using 3.25mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

24 25 10

ABBREVIATIONS

26

T3L = sl next 2 sts on to cn and hold at front of work, p1, then k2 from cn T3R = sl next st on to cn and hold at back of work, k2, then p1 from cn T4L = sl next 2 sts on to cn and hold at front of work, p2, then k2 from cn

27 11 28 29

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Worked over 30 sts. Row 1 (RS): K1, p4, C4B, (p4, C4B) twice, p4, k1. Row 2 (WS): P1, (k4, p4) 3 times, k4, p1. Row 3: K1, p3, T3R, (T4L, T4R) twice, T3L, p3, k1. Row 4: P1, k3, p2, k3, p4, k4, p4, k3, p2, k3, p1. Row 5: K1, p2, T3R, p3, C4F, p4, C4F, p3, T3L, p2, k1. Row 6: P1, k2, p2, k4, (p4, k4) twice, p2, k2, p1. Row 7: K1, p2, k2, p3, T3R, T4L, T4R, T3L, p3, k2, p2, k1. Row 8: P1, k2, (p2, k3) twice, p4, (k3, p2) twice, k2, p1. Row 9: K1, p2, (k2, p3) twice, C4B, (p3, k2) twice, p2, k1. Row 10: As row 8. Row 11: K1, p2, k2, p3, T3L, T4R, T4L, T3R, p3, k2, p2, k1. Row 12: As row 6. Row 13: K1, p2, T3L, p3, C4F, p4, C4F, p3, T3R, p2, k1. Row 14: As row 4. Row 15: K1, p3, T3L, (T4R, T4L) twice, T3R, p3, k1. Row 16: P1, (k4, p4) 3 times, k4, p1.

BACK

With 3mm needles cast on 102[114:126:138] sts. Row 1 (RS): (K2, p2) to last 2 sts, k2. Row 2 (WS): (P2, k2) to last 2 sts, p2. Last 2 rows set 2x2 rib. Work 7 more rows in 2x2 rib. Next row: *Rib 10[13:16:19], m1, (rib 3, m1) 7 times; rep from * to last 9[12:15:18] sts, rib 9[12:15:18]. 126[138:150:162] sts. Change to 3.75mm needles. Row 1 (RS): *K9[12:15:18], patt across 30 sts from row 1 of Cable Panel; rep from * to last 9[12:15:18] sts, k9[12:15:18]. Row 2 (WS): P9[12:15:18], patt across 30 sts from row 2 of Cable Panel; rep from * to last 9[12:15:18] sts, p9[12:15:18]. Last 2 rows set position of Cable Panels. Cont in patt as set until Back meas 38[38:40:42]cm (15[15:15¾:16½]in), ending with a WS row.

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 7 3 8 10 4 11 12 14

Chart

13

5

Cast off 3 sts at beg of next row. 56[64:68:76] sts. Next row: Patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 55[63:67:75] sts. Next row: P3, patt to end. Rep last 2 rows until 39[47:48:53] sts rem. Next row: Cast off 12 sts, patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 26[34:35:40] sts. Next row: P3, patt to end. Work 5 rows, dec 1 st at neck edge in every row. AT SAME TIME dec 1 st at armhole in next and every foll alt row. 18[26:27:32] sts. Next row: P3, patt to end.

9

With 3mm needles cast on 49[57:61:69] sts. Row 1: K1, (p2, k2) to end of row. Row 2: (P2, k2) to last st, p1. Last 2 rows set 2x2 rib.

6

RIGHT FRONT

Shape armholes

2

Cast off 3 sts at beg of next row. 56[64:68:76] sts. Next row: Patt to end. Next row: K2, ssk, patt to end. 55[63:67:75] sts. Next row: Patt to last 3 sts, p3. Rep last 2 rows until 39[47:48:53] sts rem. Next row: K2, ssk, patt to end. 38[46:47:52] sts. Next row: Cast off 12 sts, patt to last 3 sts, p3. 26[34:35:40] sts. Work 5 rows, dec 1 st at armhole in next and every foll alt row. AT SAME TIME dec 1 st at neck edge in every row. 18[26:27:32] sts. Next row: Patt to last 3 sts, p3. Work 8 rows, dec 1 st at each end of next and every foll alt row, as set. 10[18:19:24] sts. Cast off working each st as it presents, dec 1 st across cable panel.

5

With 3mm needles cast on 49[57:61:69] sts. Row 1: (K2, p2) to last st, k1. Row 2: P1, (k2, p2) to end of row. Last 2 rows set 2 x 2 rib. Work 7 more rows in 2 x 2 rib. Next row: Rib 9[11:12:14], m1, rib 9[12:12:15], m1, (rib 3, m1) 7 times, rib 5[6:8:9], m1, rib 5[7:8:10]. 59[67:71:79] sts. Change to 3.75mm needles. Row 1: *K9[12:15:18], patt across 30 sts from row 1 of Cable Panel, k to end. Row 2: P20[25:26:31], patt across 30 sts from row 2 of Cable Panel, p to end. Last 2 rows set position of Cable Panel with st st. Cont in patt as set until Left Front meas

Shape armholes

Work 7 more rows in 2x2 rib. Next row: Rib 5[6:8:9], m1, rib 5[7:8:10], m1, (rib 3, m1) 7 times, rib 9[11:12:14], m1, rib 9[12:12:15]. 59[67:71:79] sts. Change to 3.75mm needles. Row 1: K20[25:26:31], patt across 30 sts from row 1 of Cable Panel, k to end. Row 2: P9[12:15:18], patt across 30 sts from row 2 of Cable Panel, p to end. Last 2 rows set position of cable panels with st st. Cont in patt as set until Right Front meas 38[38:40:42]cm (15[15:15¾:16½]in) ending with a WS row.

4

LEFT FRONT

38[38:40:42]cm (15[15:15¾:16½]in), ending with a WS row.

3

Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 120[132:144:156] sts. Next row: K2, ssk, patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 118[130:142:154] sts. Next row: P3, patt to last 3 sts, p3. Rep last 2 rows until 70[82:88:94] sts rem. Cast off in patt, dec 3 sts evenly across central cable panel.

1

Shape armholes

15

16

6

14

11

19

10

7 18

12

17

13

16

15

8

8

20

9

6

21

7

9 23

4

22

5 3

24

2

25

1

10

Read all odd (RS) rows from R to L Read all even (WS) rows from L to R

26 27

Key P on RS, k on WS

T3L

T3R

T4L

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 67

C4B

C4F

67

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T4R

11 28

K on RS, p on WS

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1 3 4 5 2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11

Work 8 rows, dec 1 st at each end of next and every foll alt row, as set. 10[18:19:24] sts. Cast off in patt, dec 1 st across Cable Panel.

12 5

SLEEVES

13 14 15 6 16 17 7 18 19

With 3mm needles cast on 42[46:50:54] sts. Work 9 rows in 2 x 2 rib as for Back. Next row: *Rib 10[12:14:16], m1, (rib 3, m1) 7 times, rib 11[13:15:17]. 50[54:58:62] sts. Change to 3.75mm needles. Row 1: K10[12:14:16], patt across 30 sts from row 1 of Cable Panel, k to end. Row 2: P10[12:14:16], patt across 30 sts from row 2 of Cable Panel, p to end. Last 2 rows set position of Cable Panel with st st. Work 99[107:115:131] rows, inc 1 st at each end of 3rd and every foll 8th row until there are 76[82:90:98] sts. Cont in patt as set until Sleeve meas 48[48:50:50]cm (19[19:19½:19½]in), ending with a WS row.

Row 6: P2, k2, p2, k4, (p4, k4) twice, p2, w&t. Row 7: K2, p3, T3R, T4L, T4R, T3L, p3, k2, p2, k2. Row 8: P2, k2, (p2, k3) twice, p4, (k3, p2) twice, k2, p2. Row 9: K2, p2, (k2, p3) twice, C4B, (p3, k2) twice, p2, k2. Next row: P2, k2, w&t. Next row: P2, k2. Row 10: P2, k2, (p2, k3) twice, p4, (k3, p2), w&t. Row 11: K2, p3, T3L, T4R, T4L, T3R, p3, k2, p2, k2. Row 12: P2, k2, p2, k4, (p4, k4) twice, p2, k2, p2. Row 13: K2, p2, T3L, p3, C4F, p4, C4F, p3, T3R, p2, k2. Next row: P2, k2, w&t. Next row: P2, k2. Row 14: P2, k3, p2, k3, p4, k4, p4, k3, p2, k1, w&t. Row 15: P1, T3L, (T4R, T4L) twice, T3R, p3, k2. Row 16: P2, (k4, p4) 3 times, k4, p2. Rows 1 to 16 set Collar Cable Panel. Rep last 16 rows until Collar is long enough to fit around cardigan, starting at Right Front and ending at Left Front, ending with row 16 of patt. Cast off in patt, dec 3 sts across Cable Panel.

NECKBAND

Sew Collar to cardigan, starting at Right Front and ending at Left Front. Using 3mm needles, with RS of work facing

and starting at Right Front, pick up and k62[65:71:74] sts around Collar. Next row: (K2, kfb) to last 2 sts, k2. 82[86:94:98] sts. Next row: (K2, p2) to last 2 sts, k2. Next row: (P2, k2) to last 2 sts, p2. Next row: (K2, p2) to last 2 sts, k2. Cast off.

BUTTON BAND

Using 3mm needles, with RS of work facing, pick up and k23 sts along Collar, 116[116:120:128] sts along Left Front and 7 sts along rib. 146[146:150:158] sts. Next row: P2, (k2, p2) to end of row. Next row: K2, (p2, k2) to end of row. Rep last 2 rows once more, then first row once more. Cast off.

BUTTONHOLE BAND

Using 3mm needles, with RS of work facing, pick up and k27 sts along rib, 116[116:120:128] sts along Right Front and 23 sts along Collar. 146[146:150:158] sts. Next row: P2, (k2, p2) to end of row. Next row: K2, (p2, k2) to end of row. Next row: Rib 3[3:2:3], (yfwd, k2tog, k21[21:22:23]) 6 times, yfwd, k2tog, rib 3[3:2:3] Next row: K2, (p2, k2) to end of row. Next row: P2, (k2, p2) to end of row. Cast off.

TO FINISH

Join side and Sleeve seams. Sew on buttons. Sew in loose ends. ●

21 22 9 23 24 25 10 26 27 11 28

Join raglan seams. With 3.75mm needles, cast on 32 sts. Row 1: K2, p4, C4B, (p4, C4B) twice, p4, k2. Next row: P2, k2, w&t. Next row: P2, k2. Row 2: P2, (k4, p4) 3 times, k2, w&t. Row 3: P1, T3R, (T4L, T4R) twice, T3L, p3, k2. Row 4: P2, k3, p2, k3, p4, k4, p4, k3, p2, k1. Row 5: K2, p2, T3R, p3, C4F, p4, C4F, p3, T3L, p2, k2. Next row: P2, k2, w&t. Next row: P2, k2.

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48[48:50:50]

8

COLLAR

38[38:40:42]

20

Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 70[76:84:92] sts. Next row: K2, ssk, patt to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. 68[74:82:90] sts. Next row: P3, patt to end. Rep last 2 rows until 20[26:28:30] sts rem. Cast off in patt, dec 1 st across Cable Panel.

60[60:63:65]

Shape armholes

45.5[50.5:55.5:60.5] Measurements are given in cm

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

BRIEGE BY ALISON ROBSON

3 4 5 2 6 7

C4B = sl2 sts to cn and hold at back, k2, then k2 from cn C4F = sl2 sts to cn and hold at front, k2, then k2 from cn TW5B = sl next 3 sts to cn and hold at back, k2, slip p st from cn back to LH needle and p, k2 from cn TW5F = sl next 3 sts to cn and hold at front, k2, slip p st from cn back to LH needle and p, k2 from cn

3

For more abbreviations see page 91

8

BACK

16 17

FRONT

Work as for Back to **. Cont in patt until work meas 15cm (6in), inc1[dec1:dec1] on last st of last row. 103[111:121] sts. Change to 5mm needles.

7 18 19

Set cable pattern

69

29

8

Row 1 (RS): P42[46:51], k1, p2, k2, p2, TW5, p2, k2, p2, k1, p42[46:51]. Row 2 (WS): K42[46:51] p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1, k42[46:51]. Row 3: P42[46:51], k1, p2, FC, BC, p1, FC, BC, p2, k1, p42[46:51]. Row 4: K42[46:51], p1, k3, p4, k3, p4, k3, p1, k42[46:51]. Row 5: P42[46:51] k1, p3, C4B, p3, C4F, p3, k1, p42[46:51]. Row 6: As row 4. Row 7: P42[46:51], k1, p2, BC, FC, p1, BC, FC, p2, k1, p42[46:51]. Row 8: As row 2. Row 9: P42[46:51], k1, p2, k2, p2, TW5F, p2, k2, p2, k1, p42[46:51]. Row 10: As row 2. Row 11: As row 3. Row 12: As row 4. Row 13: As row 5. Row 14: As row 4.

20 21 22 9 23 24 25 10 26

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Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 98[108:118] sts. Next row (RS): K1, skpo, p to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Next row: P2, k to last 2 sts, p2. Rep last 2 rows until 56[64:72] sts rem. Cast off.

15

C3 = sl next 2 sts to cn and hold at front, k1tbl, then slip purl st back on to LH needle, purl this st then k1 tbl from cn BC = Back cross: sl1 st to cn and hold at back, k2, then p1 from cn FC = Front cross: sl2 sts to cn and hold at front, p1, then k2 from cn

14

ABBREVIATIONS

13

18 sts and 24 rows to 10cm over st st using 5mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

5

TENSION

12

Erika Knight Vintage Wool 100% wool (approx 87m per 50g) 14[14:15] x 50g balls 300 Flax 1 pair each 4.5mm and 5mm needles Stitch holders Cable needle Row counter Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

11

YOU WILL NEED

4

Shape raglan

To fit: UK size 8-12[14-18:20-24] 81-91[97-107:112-122]cm (32-36[38-42:44-48]in) Actual measurement: 114[122:132]cm (44[48:52]in) Length to shoulder: 60cm (23½in) Sleeve length: 45cm (18in) Figures in square brackets refer to larger sizes: where there is only one set of figures this applies to all sizes.

10

SIZES

9

Using 4.5mm needles cast on 102[112:122] sts. Work in cable ribbing as folls: Row 1 (RS): P2 (k1tbl, p1, k1tbl, p2) to end. Row 2 (WS): K2, (p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, k2) to end. Row 3: P2, (C3, p2) to end. Row 4: As row 2.** These four rows form patt and are repeated. Cont in patt until work meas 15cm (6in), ending with a WS row. Change to 5mm needles and beg with a p row for RS work in rev st st until work meas 36cm (14in) from cast-on edge, ending with a WS (k) row.

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1

PATTERNS

2 1 3 4

Row 15: As row 7. Row 16: As row 2. These 16 rows form patt and are repeated. Cont in patt until work meas 36cm (14in) from cast-on edge ending on a WS row.

Shape raglan 5 2 6 7 3

Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 99[108:118] sts. Next row (RS): K1, skpo, p to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Next row: P2, k to last 2 sts, p2. 97[106:116] sts. Rep last 2 rows 14[15:16] more times. 69[76:84] sts.

8

Shape neck

9 10 4 11

Next row (RS): K1, skpo, p23[26:30], cast off central 17[18:18] sts, p23[26:30], k2tog, k1. Keeping patt and raglan decs correct, work 1 row back to centre front, then dec 4[5:5] sts at beg of next row and foll 4 alt rows casting off all rem sts on last row. Rejoin yarn to inner edge of rem sts. Cast off 4[5:5] sts at beg of next row and 4 foll alt rows, shaping raglan on RS rows as before.

12

SLEEVES 5

13 14 15 6 16 17 7 18

Using 4.5mm needles cast on 47[52:57] sts and work 16 rows in cable ribbing as for Back. Change to 5mm needles and work in patt as folls: Row 1 (RS): P14[16:19], k1, p2, k2, p2, TW5B, p2, k2, p2, k1, p14[17:19]. Row 2 (WS): K14[17:19], p1, (k2, p2) twice k1, (p2, k2) twice, p1, k14[16:19]. This sets position of patt, working four rib cable patt as given on Front. Inc 1 st at each end of 5th row and every foll 4th row until there are 89[94:99] sts. Cont without shaping until Sleeve meas 45cm (17¾in) from cast-on edge ending on a WS row.

Shape raglan 19

Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 85[90:95] sts. Cont in four rib cable patt down centre and

working raglan shaping as for Back at each end of every RS row, work 42[44:46] rows in patt. 43[46:49] sts. Next row (RS): Cast off 11[13:14] sts, patt to end. Next row: Cast off 19[20:22], sl next 13 sts on to spare 4.5mm needle for Neckband.

NECKBAND

Neckband is worked on last 13 sts from each Sleeve and fits across either Front or Back neck edge. With 4.5mm needles and RS facing, cont as folls: Next row: K1, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k2tog. Next row: P1, k1, p1, k1, p4, k1, p1, k1, p1.

Back neckband only

Row 1: K1, p1, k1, p1, C4B, p1, k1, p1, k1. Row 2: P1, k1, p1, k1, p4, k1, p1, k1, p1. Row 3: K1, p1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1, k1. Row 4: As row 2. Row 5: As row 3. Row 6: As row 2. Row 7: As row 3. Row 8: As row 2. Rep these 8 rows in sequence until 16[17:18] cables have been worked. Work 1 more row then cast off.

Front neckband only

Work as Back neckband but on row 1 work C4F in place of C4B. Rep the 8 rows in sequence until 17[18:19] cables have been worked. Work 1 more row. Cast off.

TO FINISH

Press very gently with a steam iron on the WS. Join raglan edges with a back st on the WS. Join Sleeve and side seams, but on the side seams leave the ribbing open to form a slit. Attach Neckband edge to Back and Front neck, easing body into Neckband evenly, ensuring the centre front and centre back match up, using a flat st. ●

20 8 21 22 9 23

45 24

60

25

36 10

26

15 27 11 28

57[61:66]

29

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

CABLED CAPELET BY DEBBIE BLISS

3

MAIN PART (worked all in one piece) Row 103: As row 97.

8 9 10 4

With 3.25mm needles cast on 53 sts. Rib row 1 (RS): (K1, p1) to last 3 sts, k3. Rib row 2: K2, p1, (k1, p1) to end. These 2 rows form rib. Work a further 129 rows in rib. Next row (WS): Cast off 26 sts, rib to last 2 sts, k2tog (26 sts). Leave these sts on a spare needle.

11 12 5 13 16 17 7 18 19

â–ź

6 20

Measurements are given in cm

15

With 3.25mm needles cast on 53 sts. Rib row 1 (RS): K3, (p1, k1) to end. Rib row 2: P1, (k1, p1) to last 2 sts, k2. These 2 rows form rib. Work a further 82 rows in rib. Buttonhole row 1 (RS): Rib 6, k2tog, y2rn, skpo, rib to last 10 sts, k2tog, y2rn, skpo, rib 6. Buttonhole row 2: Rib to end, working twice into y2rn. Work a further 38 rows in rib. Rep the 2 buttonhole rows. Work a further 6 rows.

14

BUTTONHOLE BAND

8 21

TENSION

22

22 sts and 30 rows to 10cm over st st using 4mm needles. 30 sts and 31 rows to 10cm over patt using 4mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

9 23 24

ABBREVIATIONS

25

C6(8:10:12)B = slip next 3(4:5:6) sts on to cable needle and hold at back of work, k3(4:5:6), then k3(4:5:6) from cable needle C6(8:10:12)F = slip next 3(4:5:6) sts on to cable needle and hold at front of work, k3(4:5:6), then k3(4:5:6) from cable needle y2rn = yarn round needle twice and work these loops as k1, k1 tbl on next row

10 26 27 11 28

For more abbreviations see page 91

71

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3

Debbie Bliss Rialto DK Heathers 100% Merino wool (approx 105m per 50g) 13[14:14:15] x 50g balls in 95 Bordeaux 3.25mm and 4mm circular needles 1 pair 3.25mm needles Cable needle 4 buttons Note: Yarn amounts are based on average requirements and are approximate.

7

YOU WILL NEED

6

To fit: UK 8-10[12-14:16-18:20-22] To fit bust: 81-86[92-97:102-107:112-117]cm (32-34[36-38:40-42:44-46]in) Length to centre back: 42cm (16½in) for all sizes

BUTTON BAND

2

SIZE

Row 1: K2, (p2, k18, p2, k2) to end. Row 2 and every foll WS row: P to end. Row 3: K2, (p2, k6, C12F, p2, k2) to end. Rows 5, 7, 9 and 11: As row 1. Row 13: K2, (p2, C12B, k6, p2, k2) to end. Rows 15, 17, 19 and 21: As row 1. Row 23: As row 3. Rows 25 to 44: Rep rows 5 to 22 once, then work rows 3 and 4 again. Row 45: As row 1. Rows 47 to 60: Rep rows 7 to 20 again. Row 61 (dec): K2, * p2, k3, (k2tog, k3) 3 times, p2, k2; rep from * to end. 317[338:359:380] sts. Row 63: K2, (p2, k5, C10F, p2, k2) to end. Row 65: K2, (p2, k15, p2, k2) to end. Row 67: As row 65. Row 69: As row 65. Row 71: K2, (p2, C10B, k5, p2, k2) to end. Rows 73, 75 and 77: As row 65. Rows 79 to 88: Rep rows 63 to 72 once more. Row 89: As row 65. Row 91: As row 65. Row 93 (dec): K2, * p2, k3, (k2tog, k2) 3 times, p2, k2; rep from * to end. 272(290:308:326) sts. Row 95: K2, (p2, k4, C8F, p2, k2) to end. Rows 97 and 99: K2, (p2, k12, p2, k2) to end. Row 101: K2, (p2, C8B, k4, p2, k2) to end.

5

Set pattern

Row 105 (dec): K2, * p2, (k2, k2tog) 3 times, p2, k2 to end. 227[242:257:272] sts. Row 107: K2, (p2, k3, C6F, p2, k2) to end. Row 109: K2, (p2, k9, p2, k2) to end. Row 111: K2, (p2, C6B, k3, p2, k2) to end. Row 113 (dec): K2, * p2, (k1, k2tog) 3 times, p2, k2; rep from * to end. 182[194:206:218] sts. Row 114: P to end. Change to 3.25mm circular needle. Next row: K2tog, (p2tog, k2tog) to end. 91[97:103:109] sts. Next row: P1, (k1, p1) to end. Leave these sts on a spare needle.

4

With 4mm circular needle, cast on 362[386:410:434] sts. Work backwards and forwards in rows. Row 1 (RS): K2, (p2, k2) to end. Row 2: P2, (k2, p2) to end. These 2 rows form the rib. Rib a further 14 rows.

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in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

Shape neck

3 4

CLUSTER STITCH PILLOW BY KAREN MILLER AND SUSAN RITCHIE OF MRS MOON

5 2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11 12 5 13 14 15 6 16 17 7 18 19 20 8 21 22 9 23 24 25 10 26

Change to 3.25mm circular needle. Next row (RS): Cast off 26 sts, rib 25, k2tog, now rib across 91[97:103:109] sts from main part and 26 sts from buttonband. 143(149:155:161) sts. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 52 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 53 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 48 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 49 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 44 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 45 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 40 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 41 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 36 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 37 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 32 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 33 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 28 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 29 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 24 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 25 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 20 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 21 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 16 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 17 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 12 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 13 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 8 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 9 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 4 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 5 sts, sl1p, turn. Change to 4mm circular needle. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 6 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 7 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 10 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 11 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 14 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 15 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 18 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 19 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 22 sts, turn, sl1p,rib to last 23 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 26 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 27 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 30 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 31 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 34 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 35 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 38 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 39 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 42 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 43 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 46 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 47 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 50 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 51 sts, sl1p, turn. Next 2 rows: Rib to last 54 sts, turn, sl1p, rib to last 55 sts, sl1p, turn. Next row: Rib to end. Cast off in rib.

SIZE

40 x 40cm (16 x 16in)

YOU WILL NEED

Mrs Moon Plump 80% superfine Merino wool, 20% baby alpaca (approx 70m per 100g) 2 x 100g skeins in Gooseberry Fool Optional: 2 x 100g skeins in same or contrast colour for Back (Damson Jam shown here) 40cm square pillow pad Optional: 42cm square of fabric for pillow back 1 pair 10mm needles 1 x 10mm double-pointed needle Large-eyed knitter’s sewing needle Note: Yarn amounts are based on average requirements and are approximate.

TENSION

10 sts and 10 rows to 10cm over st st. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

PATTERN NOTE

To do the clusters you knit a group of six stitches on to a double-pointed needle, wind the yarn around them, then slide them off the other end of the needle. You do need a double-pointed needle that is the same size as your knitting needles – rather than a cable needle – to ensure that the stitches are the correct size.

TO FINISH 27 11 28

Sew row-ends of front bands to front edges. Fold neck ribbing in half on to right side. Sew on buttons. ●

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1

PATTERNS

2

ABBREVIATIONS

4

PILLOW FRONT

3

For more abbreviations see page 91

1

KNOTTED ROPE CABLE THROW BY SIAN BROWN

CL6 = cluster 6

5

Cast on 42 sts. Row 1 (RS): P2, (k2, p2) to end. Row 2 and all even-numbered rows: K2, (p2, k2) to end. Row 3: P2, (CL6, p2) to end. Row 4: As row 2. Row 5: As row 1. Row 6: As row 2. Row 7: P2, k2, p2, (CL6, p2) to last 4 sts, k2, p2. Row 8: As row 2. Rep rows 1-8 five more times, then rep rows 1-4 once more. Cast off in k2, p2 rib.

2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4

Note: At this stage, the pillow front looks much longer and narrower than your pillow pad, but have faith: once stretched across the pad it should fit perfectly.

11 12

PILLOW BACK

5

You can repeat the front design if you like. Alternatively, cast on 42 stitches using a contrast colour and work in st st until the work measures 41cm (16½in), then cast off.

13 14

TO FINISH

15

Weave in ends. First, neatly sew the top and bottom edges together. You will need to stretch the front piece across the back to make them the same width, so pin it first to make sure that you stretch it evenly, and use backstitch to sew up. Once these two seams are done, backstitch one side seam before stuffing the pillow pad in. Sew the last side seam using mattress stitch. ●

6

SIZE

16

Approx 104cm (41in) square.

YOU WILL NEED

17

Drops Eskimo 100% wool (approx 49m per 50g ball) 26 x 50g balls 47 Light Beige Mix 1 pair 9mm needles 1 circular 9mm needle Cable needle Note: Yarn amounts are based on average requirements and are approximate.

7 18 19 20 8

TENSION

25 10 26

27 29

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Pattern from Simple Chic Knits by Karen Miller and Susan Ritchie, published by CICO Books. Photography © CICO Books

9 23

C6B = cable 6 back: slip next 3 sts on to cn and hold at back of work, k3, then k3 from cn C6F = cable 6 front: slip next 3 sts on to cn and hold at front of work, k3, then k3 from cn Cr3L = cross 3 left: slip next 2 sts to cn and hold at front of work, p1, then k2 from cn Cr3R = cross 3 right: slip next st to cn and hold at back of work, k2, then p1 from cn Cr4L = cross 4 left: slip next 3 sts on to cn and hold at front of work, p1, then k3 from cn Cr4R = cross 4 right: slip next st to cn and hold at back of work, k3, then p1 from cn Cr5L = cross 5 left: slip next 3 sts to cn and

22

ABBREVIATIONS

21

10 sts and 14 rows to 10cm over st st using 9mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

(38½in), ending with a WS row. Cast off.

3

LEFT SIDE PANEL A (make 1) 4

Using 9mm needles cast on 33 sts. Row 1 (WS): P3, k6, p6, k4, p6, k6, p2. Row 2: K2, p6, C6F, p4, C6F, p6, k3. These 2 rows set the patt with 3 sts in st st at left-hand side. Work Cable Panel A until work meas 98cm (38½in), ending with a WS row. Cast off.

5 2 6 7 3

RIGHT SIDE PANEL A (make 1)

8

Using 9mm needles cast on 33 sts. Row 1 (WS): P2, k6, p6, k4, p6, k6, p3. Row 2: K3, p6, C6F, p4, C6F, p6, k2. These 2 rows set the patt with 3 sts in st st at right-hand side. Work Cable Panel A as set until work meas 98cm (38½in), ending with a WS row. Cast off.

9 10 4 11

CENTRE PANEL B (make 2) 12 5 13 14 15

hold at front of work, p2, then k3 from cn Cr5R = cross 5 right: slip next 2 sts to cn and hold at back of work, k3, then p2 from cn MB = make bobble: k into front, back, front and back of next st, (turn, p4, turn, k4) twice, then pass 2nd, 3rd and 4th sts over the first to complete the bobble

6

For more abbreviations see page 91

16

PATTERN NOTE

17 7 18

This throw is made in panels, so any number and length can be made to vary the size. A cushion cover can also be made by combining panels to form a square and adding a stocking stitch back.

19

Cable panel A

20 8 21 22 9 23 24 25 10 26 27 11 28

Worked over 32 sts. Row 1 (WS): P2, k6, p6, k4, p6, k6, p2. Row 2: K2, p6, C6F, p4, C6F, p6, k2. Row 3: As row 1. Row 4: K2, p4, (Cr4R, p2, Cr4L) twice, p4, k2. Row 5: P2, k4, p3, k4, p6, k4, p3, k4, p2. Row 6: K2, p3, Cr4R, p4, C6B, p4, Cr4L, p3, k2. Row 7: P2, k3, p3, k5, p6, k5, p3, k3, p2. Row 8: K2, p2, Cr4R, p5, k6, p5, Cr4L, p2, k2. Row 9: P2, k2, p3, k6, p6, k6, p3, k2, p2. Row 10: K2, p2, Cr4L, p5, k6, p5, Cr4R, p2, k2. Row 11: As row 7. Row 12: K2, p3, Cr4L, p4, C6B, p4, Cr4R, p3, k2. Row 13: As row 5. Row 14: K2, p4, (Cr5L, Cr5R) twice, p4, k2. Row 15: As row 1. Row 16: As row 2. Row 17: As row 1. Row 18: K2, p6, k3, Cr4L, k2, Cr4R, k3, p6, k2.

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Row 19: P2, k6, p3, k2, p6, k2, p3, k6, p2. Row 20: K2, p6, Cr5L, C6B, Cr5R, p6, k2. Row 21: P2, k8, p12, k8, p2. Row 22: K2, p8, (C6F) twice, p8, k2. Row 23: As row 21. Row 24: K2, p6, Cr5R, C6B, Cr5L, p6, k2. Row 25: As row 19. Row 26: K2, p6, k3, Cr5R, Cr5L, k3, p6, k2. Rows 1 to 26 form cable panel A and are repeated.

Cable panel B Worked over 36 sts. Row 1 (WS): P2, k3, p6, k9, p2, k3, p6, k3, p2. Row 2: K2, p3, k6, p3, Cr3L, p8, k6, p3, k2. Row 3 and every foll WS row: Knit or purl sts as now set. Row 4: K2, p3, C6F, p4, Cr3L, p7, C6B, p3, k2. Row 6: K2, p3, k6, p5, Cr3L, p6, k6, p3, k2. Row 8: K2, p3, k6, p6, Cr3L, p5, k6, p3, k2. Row 10: K2, p3, C6F, p7, Cr3L, p4, C6B, p3, k2. Row 12: K2, p3, k6, p5, MB, p2, Cr3L, p3, k6, p3, k2. Row 14: K2, p3, k6, p8, Cr3R, p3, k6, p3, k2. Row 16: K2, p3, C6F, p7, Cr3R, p4, C6B, p3, k2. Row 18: K2, p3, k6, p6, Cr3R, p5, k6, p3, k2. Row 20: K2, p3, k6, p5, Cr3R, p6, k6, p3, k2. Row 22: K2, p3, C6F, p4, Cr3R, p7, C6B, p3, k2. Row 24: K2, p3, k6, p3, Cr3R, p2, MB, p5, k6, p3, k2. Rows 1 to 24 form cable panel B and are repeated.

CENTRE PANEL A (make 1)

Using 9mm needles cast on 32 sts. Work Cable Panel A until work meas 98cm

Using 9mm needles cast on 36 sts. Work from Cable Panel B until work meas 98cm (38½in), ending with a WS row. Cast off.

TO FINISH

Join panels together.

Top edging

With RS facing and using circular needle, pick up and k116 sts across cast-off edges. Next row: Knit to end. Next row: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. Rep the last 2 rows once more. Cast off knitwise.

Bottom edging

With RS facing and using circular needle, pick up and k116 sts across cast-on edges. Next row: K to end. Next row: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. Rep the last 2 rows once more. Cast off knitwise.

Side edgings (both alike)

With RS facing and using circular needle, pick up and k116 sts along side edge. Next row: K to end. Next row: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. Rep the last 2 rows once more. Cast off knitwise. Join corners. ●

Pattern from The Knitted Home by Sian Brown, published by GMC. Available from thegmcgroup.com

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 10 4 11 12 5 13 14 15 6

BACK

16

Work as Front to ***.

Shape armholes

7 18

19

Cast off 3[5:7:8:9:10] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 98[106:114:122:132:142] sts. Dec 1 st at each end of next 2[3:3:3:5:7] rows then on every foll alt row until 90[96:102:108:114:120] sts rem. Cont without shaping until Back meas same as Front to shoulder shaping, ending after a WS row.

17 20 8 9 23

42

25

46[47:47:47:48:48]

24

63[65:66:67:68:69]

22

15[15:15:16:16:16]

21 10 26 27

TW2 = slip next st, k1, pass slipped st over st just knitted and knit into the back of it C6F = slip next 3 sts on to cn and hold at front of work, k3, now k3 from cn

Measurements are given in cm

11 28

45.5[51:56.5:61.5:66.5:71.5]

75

29

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9

ABBREVIATIONS

For more abbreviations see page 91

8

22 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over st st using 4mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

Loosely cast off 7[7:8:9:9:10] sts at beg of next row and 2 foll alt rows. 7[9:9:8:10:10] sts. Work 1 row. Cast off. With RS facing, rejoin yarn neatly to rem 45[49:53:57:62:67] sts and work to end of row. Complete to match left half.

3

TENSION

Shape shoulder

7

Rico Essentials Anti Pilling DK 100% acrylic (approx 250m per 100g) 6[6:6:7:7:8] x 100g balls in shade 02 1 pair each 3.25mm and 4mm needles Stitch marker Stitch holder Cable needle 4 buttons from Duttons for Buttons Row counter Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

Loosely cast off 8[9:9:9:11:12] sts at beg of next row. 33[35:38:40:42:45] sts. Dec 1 st at neck edge on next 5 rows. 28[30:33:35:37:40] sts. Cont without shaping until Front meas 21[22:23:24:25:26]cm (8¼[8¾:9:9½:9¾:10¼]in) from marker, ending at armhole edge.

6

YOU WILL NEED

Using 3.25mm needles cast on 96[108:120:128:140:152] sts. Row 1 (RS): K3, (p2, k2) to last st, k1. Row 2: K1, (p2, k2) to last 3 sts, p2, k1. Rep these 2 rib rows 11 times more, then row 1 again. ** Next row: P, inc 8[8:8:10:10:10] sts evenly across. 104[116:128:138:150:162] sts Change to 4mm needles and patt as folls: Row 1 (RS): K9[15:21:26:32:38], work 86 sts from row 1 of Panel, k9[15:21:26:32:38]. Row 2: P9[15:21:26:32:38], work 86 sts from row 2 of Panel, p9[15:21:26:32:38]. Rows 3 to 24: Rep rows 1-2 eleven times but working rows 3-24 of Panel. These 24 rows set patt and are repeated. Cont in patt until work meas 42cm (16½in) from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row. *** Place a marker 18 sts in from end of last row.

Shape neck

2

Next row: Cast off 3[5:7:8:9:10] sts, patt to end. 101[111:121:130:141:152] sts. Next row: Cast off 3[5:7:8:9:10] sts, patt across next 45[49:53:57:62:67] sts including st on needle after cast-off, cast off next 8 sts (centre sts), work to end. Cont on last group of 45[49:53:57:62:67] sts only for left half of front. Dec 1 st at armhole edge on every row until 41[44:47:49:53:57] sts rem. Cont straight until work meas 15[15:15:16:16:16]cm (6[6:6:6¼:6¼:6¼]in) from marker, ending at front edge.

5

Shape armholes and divide for neck

Worked over 86 sts. Row 1 (RS): (TW2, p2, k6, p2, TW2, k10) 3 times, TW2, P2, K6, p2, TW2. Row 2: P2, k2, p6, k2, (p14, k2, p6, k2) 3 times, p2. Rows 3 to 6: Rep rows 1 and 2 twice. Row 7: (TW2, p2, C6F, p2, TW2, k10) 3 times, TW2, p2, C6F, P2, TW2. Row 8: As row 2. Rows 9 to 12: Rep rows 1 and 2 twice. Row 13 (on which patt is reversed): (TW2, k10, TW2, p2, k6, p2) 3 times, TW2, k10, TW2. Row 14: (P14, k2, p6, k2) 3 times, p14. Rows 15 to 18: Rep rows 13 and 14 twice. Row 19: (TW2, k10, TW2, p2, C6F, p2) 3 times, TW2, k10, TW2. Row 20: As row 14. Rows 21 to 24: Rep rows 13 and 14 twice. These 24 rows form Cable Panel.

4

To fit chest: 84-89[94-99:104-109: 114-119:124-129:134-139]cm (33-35[37-39:41-43:45-47:49-51:53-55]in) Actual measurement: 93[102:113:123:133:143]cm (36½[40½:44½:48½:52½:56½]in) Length to shoulder: 63[65:66:67:68:69]cm (25[25½:26:26½:26¾:27]in) Sleeve length: 46[47:47:47:48:48]cm (18[18½:18½:18½:19:19]in)

3

CABLE PANEL

FRONT

SIZES

1

PASSEGGIATA BY PAT MENCHINI

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1

PATTERNS

2 1

Shape shoulders

3

Loosely cast off 7[7:8:9:9:10] sts at beg of next 6 rows, then 7[9:9:8:10:10] sts at beg of next 2 rows. Slip rem 34[36:36:38:40:40] sts on to a holder and leave.

4 5 2

SLEEVES

6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11 12 5 13 14

Cast on 44[44:48:48:48:52] sts and work as Front to **. Next row: P inc 4[6:4:4:6:4] sts evenly across. 48[50:52:52:54:56] sts. Change to 4mm needles and patt as folls: Row 1 (RS): K15[16:17:17:18:19], p2, TW2, p2, k6, p2, TW2, p2, k15 [16:17:17:18:19]. Row 2: P15[16:17:17:18:19], k2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2, p to end. Rows 3 to 6: Rep rows 1 and 2 twice. Row 7: As row 1 but working C6F in place of k6. Row 8: As row 2. These 8 rows form patt. Cont in patt as set, shaping Sleeve by inc 1 st at each end of next row, then on every foll 4th[4th:4th:alt:alt:alt] row until there are 68[72:86:58:60:70] sts, then on every foll 6th[6th:6th:4th:4th:4th] row until there are 86[90:96:102:106:112] sts, working extra sts in st st. Cont straight until Sleeve meas 46[47:47:47:48:48]cm (18[18½:18½:18½:19:19] in) from beg, ending after a WS row.

15

Shape top 6

16 17 7 18

Cast off 3[5:7:8:9:10] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 80[80:82:86:88:92] sts. Work 0[2:4:4:6:6] rows without shaping. Dec 1 st at each end of every RS row until 50[50:52:56:58:62] sts rem, then on every row until 40[40:42:46:48:50] sts rem. Cast off, working k2tog at beg and end of row over first and last 2 sts.

NECKBAND

Join shoulders. Using 3.25mm needles, RS facing, pick up and k28[32:33:33:37:40] sts evenly up right side of neck, k across 34[36:36:38:40:40] Back neck sts, dec 2[0:2:0:2:0] sts evenly across, finally pick up and k28[32:33:33:37:40] sts evenly down left side of neck. 88[100:100:104:112:120] sts. Beg with row 2 work 26 rows in rib as on Front. Cast off loosely in rib. Place a marker at each end of 13th row.

BUTTONHOLE BORDER

Using 3.25mm needles, RS facing, pick up and k13 sts from marker to lower edge of left side of Neckband, then pick up and k43[43:43:47:47:47] sts evenly along straight edge of Front opening. 56[56:56:60:60:60] sts. Rows 1 to 5: Beg with row 2, work 5 rows in rib as on Front. Row 6: Rib 6[6:6:5:5:5], (cast off 3 sts in rib, rib 11[11:11:12:12:12] – including st on needle after cast-off) 3 times, cast off 3 sts, rib to end. Row 7: Rib to end, casting on 3 sts neatly over those cast off. Work 5 more rows in rib. Cast off evenly in rib.

BUTTONHOLE BAND

Work to match Buttonhole Border but omitting buttonholes.

TO FINISH

Fold Neckband in half to WS and hem neatly in place all round. Sew in Sleeve tops. Join side and Sleeve seams. Sew on buttons. ●

19

24 23

22 20

21

20 8

19

21

18

17

16 22

15

14

13

9 23

12

11

10 24

9

8

7

25

6

5

10

4

26

3

2

1 27

Read all odd (RS) rows from R to L. Read all even (WS) rows from L to R

11 28

Key

K on RS, p on WS

29

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K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 76

P on RS, k on WS

TW2

C6F

Pattern repeat

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PATTERNS

2 13

RIGHT FRONT

6 16 17 7 18 19 20 8 21 22 9 23 24 25 10 26

27

Work first st of Chart A1, yo, work rem 11 sts of A1, dec 1 st (as set out in Pattern Notes), cont over rem sts as before. Rep this increase on A1 every 1.5cm (½in) 0[2:3:3:3:4] times in total then every 1cm (¼in) 26[24:23:24:25:24] times (26[26:26:27:28:28] sts (incl the first st in A1)). Work these inc sts towards mid Front in g st, AT THE SAME TIME work short rows as folls: On every 14th row work as folls, beg on RS: Work all sts in g st, turn, tighten yarn and k back across sts, turn and work as before over all sts. This way the ridges in Collar

Shawl collar

15

Keeping patt correct, cast off 3[3:3:4:4:4] sts at beg of next 4 rows. 110[118:126:138:146:162] sts. Cont without shaping until work meas 53[54:55:56:57:58]cm (20¾[21¼:21¾:22:22½:23]in), ending on a WS row. Next row: Work row 1 of Chart A7 over all sts, working 1 st in g st at each edge. AT THE SAME TIME dec 20[20:18:24:22:24] sts evenly across row. 90[98:108:114:124:138] sts. Cont from row 2 of A7, working 6 Chart rows throughout. Cont until work meas 66[68:70:72:74:76]cm

14

Shape armholes

With 3.5mm circular needle cast on 81[85:89:98:102:111] sts. Row 1 (RS): Work 12 sts of row 1 of Chart A1, work across row 1 of A2 (working correct size), p2, work 36 sts of row 1 of A3, 10 sts of row 1 of A4, row 1 of A5 (working correct size), k1. Row 2 (WS): K1, work row 2 of A5 (working correct size), rows 2 of A4 then A3, k2, work row 2 of A2 (working correct size), work row 2 of A1. Rep these first 2 rows of Charts A2 to A5 for a further 10 rows (12 rows total). Row 13: Work across row 3 of all Charts. 73[77:81:89:93:101] sts. Row 14: Work across row 4 of all Charts. Change to 4mm circular needle. Cont across all Charts from row marked with arrow until work meas 40[41:42:43:44:46] cm (15¾[16¼:16½:17:17¼:18¼]in), beg Shawl Collar while AT THE SAME TIME working shoulder as explained below: READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:

29

77

11 28

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5

You may find it useful to use stitch markers to separate each pattern chart.

12

TIP

11

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91

4

21 sts and 28 rows to 10cm over st st using 4mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

10

TENSION

9

Drops Lima 65% wool, 35% alpaca (approx 92m per 50g) 16[19:21:23:25:28] x 50g balls 7810 Moss Green 3.5mm and 4mm circular needles 60cm long Stitch holders Stitch markers Cable needle 6 Drops Buffelhorn buttons no 535 Row counter Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

8

YOU WILL NEED

3

To fit size: S[M:L:XL:XXL:XXXL] Actual measurement approx: 96[104:112:122:134:146]cm (38[41:44:48:53:57½]in) Length to shoulder approx: 69[70:72:74:76:78]cm (27[27½:28½:29:30:31]in) Sleeve length: 60[59:58:58:57:54]cm (23½[23¼:23:23:22½:21¼]in) Figures in square brackets refer to larger sizes: where there is only one set of figures this applies to all sizes.

7

SIZES

With 3.5mm circular needle cast on 145[150:158:178:186:206] sts. Row 1 (RS): K1, work across row 1 of Chart A6 (working correct size), work across row 1 of Chart A4 then row 1 of Chart A3, p2, k2, (p3, k2) 5[6:6:10:10:12] times, p2, work across row 1 of A3, then row 1 of A4 and row 1 of Chart A5 (working correct size), k1. Row 2 (WS): K1, work row 2 of A5 (working correct size), work row 2 of A4, work row 2 of A3, k2, (p2, k3) 5[6:6:10:10:12] times, p2, k2, work row 2 of A3, work row 2 of A4, work row 2 of A6 (working correct size), k1. Rep these first 2 rows of Charts A3 to A6 with ribbed section in the middle for a further 10 rows (12 rows total). Cont in patt from 3rd row of Charts and work as folls: Row 13 (RS): K1, work across row 3 of Chart A6 (working correct size), work across row 3 of A4 then row 3 of A3, p2, work across next 27[32:32:52:52:62] sts in rib patt as set, AT THE SAME TIME dec 11[8:8:12:12:14] sts evenly over purled sections, p2, work across row 3 of A3, then row 3 of A4 and row 3 of A5 (working correct size), k1. 122[130:138:154:162:178] sts. Work 1 row. Change to 4mm circular needle and cont in patt as set, but working Chart A8 over centre 16[24:24:40:40:48] sts and working Charts A2 to A6 from point marked with arrow on Charts. Cont until work meas 46[47:48:49:50:51]cm (18[18½:19:19¼:19¾:20]in), ending on a WS row.

6

BACK

Next row (RS): Patt 32[36:40:42:46:53] sts, cast off next 26[26:28:30:32:32] sts, patt to end. Cont on this set of 32[36:40:42:46:53] sts only. Next row (WS): Patt to end, dec 1 st at neck edge. 31[35:39:41:45:52] sts. Cont without shaping until work meas 68[70:72:74:76:78]cm (26¾[27½:28¼:29¼:30:30¾]in), ending on a WS row. Cast off. With RS facing, rejoin yarn to rem 32[36:40:42:46:53] sts, dec 1 st, patt to end. Cont without shaping until work meas 68[70:72:74:76:78]cm (26¾[27½:28¼:29¼:30:30¾]in), ending on a RS row. Knit 2 rows. Cast off.

2

All decs are worked on RS. After A1 decrease using p2tog. Before A1 work until 2 sts before A1, p2tog.

Shape neck and shoulders

5

Decreasing

(26[26¾:27½:28¼:29¼:30]in), ending with a WS row.

4

Garment is worked backwards and forwards as if on straight needles, circular needles are used due to the number of stitches and to help support the weight of the work as it grows.

3

PATTERN NOTES

1

FINNLEY BY DROPS DESIGN

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in

1

PATTERNS

2 1 3

will not contract as much. On Left Front work reversed, ie beg short rows on WS.

Shape shoulder 4 5 2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11 12 5 13 14 15

When work meas 46[47:48:49:50:51]cm (18[18½:19:19¼:19¾:20]in), cast off 3[3:3:4:4:4] sts at beg of next 2 rows on WS. 67[71:75:81:85:93] sts. When work meas 53[54:55:56:57:58]cm (20¾[21¼:21¾:22:22½:23]in), work Collar sts in g st and A1 as before, then work A7 over rem sts on needle, AT THE SAME TIME dec 10[10:10:13:12:13] sts evenly. 57[61:65:68:73:80] sts. Cont in this patt throughout. Cont until work meas 68[70:72:74:76:78]cm (26¾[27½:28¼:29¼:30:30¾]in) ending on a WS row. Next row (RS): Patt first 26[26:26:27:28:28] sts then slip these on a holder. Knit 2 rows over rem 31[35:39:41:45:52] sts. Cast off. Slip first 26[26:26:27:28:28] sts back on to needle. Then work short rows in g st as folls, beg from WS: Work over all 26[26:26:27:28:28] sts, * k13[13:14:14:15:15] sts, turn, k back across these 13[13:14:14:15:15] sts, k 2 rows over all 26[26:26:27:28:28] sts; rep from * until piece measures 7[7:7:8:8:8]cm (2¾[2¾:2¾:3¼:3¼:3¼]in) on the shortest edge. Cast off.

working in back loop of yarn overs. Rep inc row every 2[2:1½:1½:1½:1½]cm (¾[¾:½:½:½:½]in) 20[20:22:22:25:25] more times. 92[96:100:104:110:114] sts. Cont until Sleeve meas 57[56:55:54:53:50]cm (22½[22:21¾:21¼:21:19¾]in), ending on a WS row. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2[2:2:4:4:4] rows, 2 sts at beg of foll 2 rows and 3 sts at beg of foll 4[4:4:6:6:6] rows. Cast off.

POCKETS

With 4mm circular needle cast on 42 sts. Knit 2 rows, inc 6 sts on 2nd row (48 sts). On next row from RS work patt as folls: Note: Beg and repeat patt in A3 and A4 from 5th row. Next row (RS): K1, A3, A4, A8, k1. Cont in this way, working backwards and

forwards as if on straight needles, until A3 and A4 have been worked twice vertically. Then work first 6 rows from arrows once more. Next row (dec): K1, k2tog twice, patt next 7 sts, k2tog twice, patt 15 sts, k2tog twice, patt to last st, k1. Change to 3.5mm circular needle. Knit 4 rows in g st. Cast off. Work another pocket the same way but reversing pattern Charts.

TO FINISH

Sew shoulder seams. Sew in Sleeves. Sew underarm and side seams. Sew buttons to right band. Sew cast-off edge on collars to mid Back, sew Collar to back of neck. Fasten Pockets on Fronts matching patterns. Weave in loose ends. ●

6 16

LEFT FRONT

17 7 18 19 20 8

Work as Right Front, reversing all patterns and shaping, ie work A10 instead of A1, A9 instead of A2 and A6 instead of A5. Work buttonholes on left band by ktog 6th and 7th sts from the edge then working a yo. Work Buttonholes when work measures: SIZE S: 2, 9, 17, 25, 33 and 41cm. SIZE M: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34 and 42cm. SIZE L: 3, 11, 19, 27, 35 and 43cm. SIZE XL: 3, 12, 20, 28, 36 and 44cm. SIZE XXL: 4, 13, 21, 29, 37 and 45cm. SIZE XXXL: 5, 14, 22, 30, 38 and 46cm.

21

SLEEVES

22 9 23 24 25 10 26 27 11 28

With 3.5mm circular needle, cast on 59[64:64:69:69:74] sts. Row 1 (RS): K1, (k2, p3) to last 3 sts, k2, k1 (edge st). Row 2 (WS): K1, (p2, k3) to last 3 sts, p2, k1. Rep these 2 rows until rib meas 4cm (1½in) ending with a row 2. Change to 4mm needle. Knit 1 row, dec 9[10:10:11:11:12] sts evenly across. 50[54:54:58:58:62] sts. Now work chart A8 working 1 st in g st at each end of every row. When Sleeve meas 14[13:8:8:13:11]cm (5½[5:3¼:3¼:5:4¼]in), inc 1 st at each end of next RS row as folls: Inc row (RS): K1, yo, patt to last st, yo, k1. Next row (WS): Work in patt to end,

29

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K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 78

Measurements are given in cm

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1

PATTERNS

2 1 3 4 5 2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11 12 5 13 14 15 6 16 17 7 18 19 20 8 21 22 9 23 24 25 10 26

Key = Slip 4 sts to cable needle in front of

= K on WS,

= Slip 4 sts to cable needle behind

P on RS

piece, k4, k4 from cable needle

= repeat pattern from here (= 5th row in diagram) = P2tog

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 79

79

29

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11 28

piece, k4, k4 from cable needle

27

P on WS

â–ź

= K on RS,

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in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

MIRRORED CABLE BEANIE BY TOFT

3

TENSION

PENDA HAT & MITTS BY DOGGRELL DESIGNS

4

16 sts and 22 rows to 10cm in st st after washing and blocking. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

5 2 6

ABBREVIATIONS

7

C4F = slip next 2 sts on to cn and hold at front, k2, k2 from cn C4B = slip next 2 sts on to cn and hold at back, k2, k2 from cn

3 8

For more abbreviations see page 91 9

HAT

10

Cast on 72 sts and join into the round, being careful not to twist sts, pm. Rnds 1 to 8: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end. Rnds 9-10: *P2, k4, repeat from * to end. Rnd 11: *P2, C4F, p2, C4B, repeat from * to end. Rnds 12-16: *P2, k4, repeat from * to end. Repeat rounds 11-16 four more times.

4 11 12 5

Shape crown

13 14

SIZE

15

Approx 21cm (8¼in) from crown to base after washing and blocking. 6

16

YOU WILL NEED

17 7 18 19

Toft Aran 100% wool (approx 110m per 100g) 1 x 100g ball in Cocoa 5mm circular needle 60cm long Cable needle Stitch marker Note: Yarn amounts are based on average requirements and are approximate.

Rnd 41: *K2, k2tog, k2, repeat from * to end (60 sts). Rnd 42: *P2, k3, repeat from * to end. Rnd 43: *P2, k2tog, k1, repeat from * to end (48 sts). Rnd 44: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end. Rnd 45: *P2tog, k2tog, repeat from * to end (24 sts). Rnd 46: *P1, k1, repeat from * to end. Rnd 47: *K2tog, repeat from * to end (12 sts). Break yarn and thread through rem sts.

TO FINISH

Weave in ends. Hand-wash, dry flat and block. ●

SIZE

Hat: To fit head circumference 51-56cm (20-22in). Mitts: To fit S[M:L] size hands. Figures in square brackets refer to larger sizes. Where there is only one set of figures this applies to all sizes.

YOU WILL NEED

20 8 21 22

160-185m (175-203 yards)of 4ply/fingeringweight/sock yarn Yarn suggestions: 1 x 50g ball of Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock yarn in 38 Brick 1 x 50g ball of Drops Baby Merino in 16 Red 2.75mm circular needle/DPNs for hatband and mitts 3.5mm circular needle/DPNs for body of hat Stitch markers Cable needle Yarn needle Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

9 23

TENSION

24

Body of hat: 36 sts and 42 rnds to 10cm over pattern using 3.5mm needles Hat band: 32 sts and 46 rnds to 10cm over 4x4 rib using 2.75mm needles Mitts: 24 sts and 50 rnds to 10cm over 2x2 rib using 2.75mm needles Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

25 10 26 27

ABBREVIATIONS

11 28

21rpc = slip 1 to cn and hold to back, k2, p1 from cn

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1

PATTERNS

2 5 13 14 15 6 16 17 7 18 19 20 8 21 22 9 23 24

Transfer the 25[29:31] sts on the waste yarn to working needles, pick up 3[3:1] sts in the gap between the transferred sts. 28[32:32] sts. Rnds 1 to 12: Cont in set 2x2 rib around the thumb. Cast off loosely.

12

Left thumb

11

Rnd 30: (K2, p2) 4[5:6] times, k1, pm, m1k, pm, k1, p2, k2, work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern. Rnd 31: (K2, p2) 4[5:6] times, k1, sm, k1, sm, k1, p2, k2, work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern. Rnd 32: (K2, p2) 4[5:6] times, k1, sm, m1k, k1, m1p, sm, k1, p2, k2, work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern. These two rnds set increase pattern. Continue to inc for thumb gusset on every alt rnd, keeping the k2, p2 rib and the Mitt Stitch Pattern as set and increasing between the markers until there are 25[29:31] sts between the markers. If using Chart the rep is rnds 5 to 20, if using written instructions the rep is rnds 1 to 16. Work 7[3:1] rnds without increases. Rnd 62: (K2, p2) 4[5:6] times, k1, remove marker, slip next 25[29:31] sts to waste yarn, remove marker, k1, p2, k2, work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern. Rnd 63: (K2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2, work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern. Cont as set until the Mitt Stitch Pattern has been completed for a fourth time. Work 12 rnds of the cable rib pattern as above. Cast off loosely.

4

RIGHT MITT

Cast on 50[54:58] sts using a stretchy cast on and, if using DPNs, distribute evenly across needles. Join to work in the round, taking care not to to twist sts, and pm for start of rnd.

25 10 26

Cable rib

â–ź 11 28

Rnd 1: (P4, k4) 3 times, p4, (k2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2.

27

81

29

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 81

Increase for thumb gusset

10

knittingmag.com

9

Cast on 50[54:58] sts using a stretchy cast on and, if using DPNs, distribute evenly across

Rnd 13: (K2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2, work rnd 1 of Mitt Stitch Pattern (rnd 5 of Chart) Rnds 14 to 29: (K2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2, work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern.

8

LEFT MITT

Set Mitt Stitch Pattern

3

Change to 3.5mm circular needle. Next rnd: *P2, m1p, k4, p4, k4, p4, k4, m1p, p2; rep from * to end (156 sts).

7

Body

6

With 2.75mm circular needle, cast on 144 sts using a stretchy cast on such as the alternate cable cast on, pm for beg of rnd. Rnds 1 to 3: P2, *k4, p4; rep from * to last 6 sts, k4, p2. Work cable ribbing from Chart or written instructions as folls: Rnd 1: P2, *k4, p4; rep from * to last 6 sts, k4, p2. Rnd 2: P2, *C4B, p4; rep from * to last 6 sts, C4B, p2. Rnd 3: As rnd 1. Rnd 4: As rnd 1. Rnds 5 to 12: Rep rnds 1 to 4 twice.

Over 28 sts. Rnd 1 (rnd 5 on Chart): P4, k4, p4, k4, p4, k4, p4. Rnd 2: P4, C4B, p4, C4B, p4, C4B, p4. Rnd 3: P4, k4, p4, k4, p4, k4, p4 Rnd 4: P3, 21rpc, 22lpc, 22rpc, 22lpc, 22rpc, 21lpc, p3 Rnd 5: P3, k2, p3, k4, p4, k4, p3, k2, p3 Rnd 6: P2, 21rpc, p3, C4F, p4, C4F, p3, 21lpc, p2. Rnd 7: P2, k2, p4, k4, p4, k4, p4, k2, p2. Rnd 8: P2, k2, p2, 22rpc, 22lpc, 22rpc, 22lpc, p2, k2, p2. Rnd 9: P2, k2, p2, k2, p4, k4, p4, k2, p2, k2, p2. Rnd 10: P2, k2, p2, k2, p4, C4B, p4, k2, p2, k2, p2. Rnd 11: As rnd 9. Rnd 12: P2, k2, p2, 22lpc, 22rpc, 22lpc, 22rpc, p2, k2, p2. Rnd 13: P2, k2, p4, k4, p4, k4, p4, k2, p2. Rnd 14: P2, 21lpc, p3, C4F, p4, C4F, p3, 21rpc, p2. Rnd 15: P3, k2, p3, k4, p4, k4, p3, k2, p3. Rnd 16: P3, 21lpc, 22rpc, 22lpc, 22rpc, 22lpc, 21rpc, p3.

2

HAT

MITT STITCH PATTERN

Rnd 1: (K2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2, (p4, k4) 3 times, p4. Rnd 2: (K2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2, (p4, C4B) 3 times, p4. Rnd 3: (K2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2, (p4, k4) 3 times, p4. Rnd 4: (K2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2, (p4, k4) 3 times, p4. Rnds 5 to 12: Rep rnds 1 to 4 twice.

5

Over 26 sts. Rnd 1: *P3, k4, p4, k4, p4, k4, p3; rep from * to end. Rnd 2: *P3, C4B, p4, C4B, p4, C4B, p3; rep from * to end. Rnd 3: As rnd 1. Rnd 4: *P2, 21rpc, 22lpc, 22rpc, 22lpc, 22rpc, 21lpc, p2; rep from * to end. Rnd 5: *P2, k2, p3, k4, p4, k4, p3, k2, p2; rep from * to end. Rnd 6: *P1, 21rpc, p3, C4F, p4, C4F, p3, 21lpc, p1; rep from * to end. Rnd 7: *P1, k2, p4, k4, p4, k4, p4, k3; rep from * to end. Rnd 8: *P1, k2, p2, 22rpc, 22lpc, 22rpc, 22lpc, p2, k2, p1; rep from * to end. Rnd 9: *P1, k2, p2, k2, p4, k4, p4, k2, p2, k2, p1; rep from * to end. Rnd 10: *P1, k2, p2, k2, p4, C4B, p4, k2, p2, k2, p1; rep from * to end. Rnd 11: As rnd 9. Rnd 12: *P1, k2, p2, 22lpc, 22rpc, 22lpc, 22rpc, p2, k2, p1; rep from * to end. Rnd 13: *P1, k2, p4, k4, p4, k4, p4, k2, p1; rep from * to end. Rnd 14: *P1, 21lpc, p3, C4F, p4, C4F, p3, 21rpc, p1; rep from * to end. Rnd 15: *P2, k2, p3, k4, p4, k4, p3, k2, p2; rep from * to end. Rnd 16: *P2, 21lpc, 22rpc, 22lpc, 22rpc, 22lpc, 21rpc, p2; rep from * to end.

Work crown from Hat Decrease Pattern Chart or written instructions as folls: Rnd 1: *P3, k4, p4, k4, p4, k4, p3; rep from * to end. Rnd 2: *P3, C4B, p4, C4B, p4, C4B, p3; rep from * to end. Rnd 3: *P1, p2tog, k4, p4, k4, p4, k4, p2tog, p1; * rep from * to end (144 sts). Rnd 4: *P2, k4, p4, k4, p4, k4, p2; rep from * to end. Rnd 5: *P2tog, k4, p2tog; rep from * to end (108 sts). Rnd 6: *P1, C4B, p2, C4B, p2, C4B, p1; rep from * but stop 1 st before end. Work the last st with the instructions for the next rnd. Rnd 7: *P2tog, k4; rep from * to end (90 sts). Rnd 8: *P1, k4; rep from * to end. Rnd 9: *P1, k1, k2tog, k1; rep from * to end (72 sts). Rnd 10: *P1, k1, k2tog; rep from * to end (54 sts). Rnd 11: *P1, k2tog; rep from * to end (36 sts). Rnd 12: *K2tog; rep from * to end (18 sts). Rnd 13: *K2tog; rep from * to end (9 sts). Rnd 14: *K2tog; rep from * to last st, k1 (5 sts). Cut yarn, thread through rem sts and pull tight.

Cable rib

4

HAT STITCH PATTERN

Crown

needles. Join to work in the rnd, taking care that the sts are not twisted. Pm for start of rnd.

3

For more abbreviations see page 91

Work Hat Stitch Pattern from Chart or written instructions above, starting with rnd 2 of Chart. Work 3 full reps in total – 48 rnds.

1

22rpc = slip 2 to cn and hold to back, k2, p2 from cn 21lpc = slip 2 to cn and hold to front, p1, k2 from cn 22lpc = slip 2 to cn and hold to front, p2, k2 from cn C4B = cable 4 back: slip the next 2 sts on to a cable needle and hold at the back, k2, then k2 from the cable needle C4F = cable 4 front: slip the next 2 sts on to a cable needle and hold at the front, k2, then k2 from the cable needle

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1 3 4 5

Rnd 2: (P4, C4B) 3 times, p4, (k2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2. Rnd 3: (P4, k4) 3 times, p4, (k2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2. Rnd 4: (P4, k4) 3 times, p4, (k2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2. Rnds 5 to 12: Rep rnds 1 to 4 twice.

2

Set Mitt Stitch Pattern

6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11 12 5 13 14 15 6 16 17 7 18

Rnd 13: Work rnd 1 of Mitt Stitch Pattern (rnd 5 of Chart), (k2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2. Rnds 14 to 29: Work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern, (k2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2. Increase for thumb gusset Rnd 30: Work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern, k2, p2, k1, pm, m1k, pm, k1, (p2, k2) 4[5:6] times. Rnd 31: Work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern, k2, p2, k1, sm, k1, sm, k1, (p2, k2) 4[5:6] times. Rnd 32: Work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern, k2, p2, k1, sm, m1k, k1, m1p, sm, k1, (p2, k2) 4[5:6] times. These three rnds set increase pattern. Continue to inc for thumb gusset on every alt rnd, keeping the k2, p2 rib and the Mitt Stitch Pattern as set and increasing between the markers until there are 25[29:31] sts between the markers. If using Chart the rep is rnds 5 to 20, if using written instructions the rep is rnds 1 to 16. Work 7[3:1] rnds without increases. Rnd 62: Work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern, k2, p2, k1, remove marker, slip next 25[29:31] sts to waste yarn, remove marker, k1, (p2, k2) 4[5:6] times. Rnd 63: Work next rnd of Mitt Stitch Pattern (k2, p2) 5[6:7] times, k2. Cont as set until the Mitt Stitch Pattern has been completed for a fourth time. Work 12 rnds of the cable rib pattern as above. Cast off loosely.

Hat Cable Rib Chart 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9

Key 8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1 21lpc SI2 to cn and hold at front, p1, k2 from cn

4 3 2 1

26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9

26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

22lpc SI2 to cn and hold at front, p2, k2 from cn 22rpc SI2 to cn and hold at back, k2, p2 from cn C4B: cable 4 back SI2 to cn and hold at back, k2, k2 from cn C4F: cable 4 front SI2 to cn and hold at front, k2, k2 from cn

Hat Decrease Pattern Chart 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9

Right thumb 19 20 8 21

Transfer the 25[29:31] sts on the waste yarn to working needles, pick up 3[3:1] sts in the gap between the transferred sts. 28[32:32] sts. Rnds 1 to 12: Cont in set 2x2 rib around the thumb. Cast off loosely.

21rpc SI1 to cn, and hold at back, k2, p1 from cn

Hat Stitch Pattern Chart

26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9

8

7

6

5

4

3

Knit

14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Purl

Mitts Stitch Pattern Chart 2

1 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

22

TO FINISH

Weave in all ends. â—? 9 23 24 25 10 26 27

28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

11 28 29

82

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 82

knittingmag.com

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

SWEET TREATS BY CATHY CARRON

3 4

Rnd 4: *Yo, k1, k2tog; rep from * around. Repeat rnds 1–4 for Cellular Stitch

5

LEFT-SLANTING CABLE STRIP

2

Over a multiple of 6 sts. Rnd 1: Purl. Rnds 2 to 5: Knit. Rnd 6: *Work 6-st LC; rep from * around. Rnd 7: Knit.

6 7 3

RIGHT-SLANTING CABLE STRIP

8

Over a multiple of 6 sts. Rnd 1: Purl. Rnds 2 to 5: Knit. Rnd 6: *Work 6-st RC; rep from * around. Rnd 7: Knit.

9 10 4

COWL

11

Note: To make it easier to count this large number of sts, pm at intervals while casting on. With A, cast on 252 sts. Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist sts, and pm to mark beg of rnd.

12 5 25

Section 4

24 26

27

With A, cont to work with decrease shaping as folls: Rnd 1: Purl. Rnd 2 (dec): (K2, k2tog) 63 times (189 sts). Rnds 3 to 5: Work rnds 2–4 of Cellular Stitch. Rnd 6 (dec): (K1, k2tog) 63 times (126 sts).

10 29

83

11 28

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 83

With A, work rnds 1–15 of first Cellular Stitch band. Cut A. With B, work rnds 1–7 of Left-slanting Cable Strip. Cut B.

9 23

knittingmag.com

Section 3

22

Worked over a multiple of 3 sts. Rnd 1: Knit. Rnd 2: *K2tog, yo, k1; rep from * around. Rnd 3: Knit.

Worked over 28 rnds as folls: With A, work rnds 1–7 of Left-Slanting Cable Strip. Cut A. With B, work rnds 1–7 of Right-slanting Cable Strip. Cut B. With A, work rnds 1–7 of Left-slanting Cable Strip. Cut A. With B, work rnds 1–7 of Right-Slanting Cable Strip. Cut B.

21

CELLULAR STITCH

Section 2

8

For more abbreviations see page 91

With B, work as for first Cellular Stitch band. Cut B.

20

6-st RC = slip 3 sts to cn and hold at back, k3, k3 from cn 6-st LC = slip 3 sts to cn and hold at front, k3, k3 from cn

Second Cellular Stitch band

19

ABBREVIATIONS

With A, work rnds 1–7 of Right-slanting Cable Strip. Cut A.

7 18

22 sts and 28 rnds to 10cm over Cellular Stitch. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

17

TENSION

Right-slanting Cable Strip

16

Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran 55% Merino wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere (approx 90m per 50g) 4 x 50g balls in 27 Stone (A) 4 x 50g balls in 25 White (B) 4.5mm circular needle 80cm long Stitch marker Cable needle Tapestry needle Note: Yarn amounts are based on average requirements and are approximate.

Rnd 1: With B, purl. Rnds 2 to 13: Work the 4-rnd Cellular Stitch pattern three times. Rnds 14 and 15: Knit. Cut B.

6

YOU WILL NEED

First Cellular Stitch band

15

Circumference at lower edge: 117cm (46in) Circumference at neck edge: 61cm (24in) Height: 35.5cm (14in)

Beg with rnd 2 of Left-slanting Cable for section 1 only. With A, work rnds 2–7 of Left-slanting Cable Strip. Cut A.

14

SIZE

13

Section 1: Left-slanting Cable Strip

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in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

SUVENA BY VERITY CASTLEDINE

3 4

(p2[3], k4, p4, k4, p2[3]) to end. Continue to work Chart, then knit to first marker, and in rib pattern as set to second marker OR work from written instructions as folls: Rnd 1: P2[3], C6F, C6B, p4[6], k to marker, (p2[3], k4, p4, k4, p2[3]) to end. Rnd 2: P2[3], k12, p4[6], k to marker, (p2[3], k4, p4, k4, p2[3]) to end. Rnds 3 to 6: as rnd 2 These six rnds set patt. Repeat patt 3 times. On the fourth repeat, k1 at the start of each round, before working the pattern as written. On the fifth repeat, k2 at the start of each round, before working the pattern as written. On the sixth repeat, k3 at the start of each round, before working the pattern as written. Continue in this way, adding an extra stitch at the start of each round until you have worked 10 repeats.

5 2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11

Shape heel

12 5

Rnds 7 to 9: Work rnds 2–4 of Cellular Stitch. Rnds 10 to 13: Work rnds 1–4 of Cellular Stitch. Rnds 14 and 15: With A, knit. Cut A.

13

Last Slanting Cable Strip

14

With B, work rnds 1–7 of Right-slanting Cable Strip. Bind off.

TO FINISH 15

Weave in ends on the WS. ●

Turn and work across the next 32[36] sts only. WS: sl1, k1[2], (p4, k4) 3 times, p4, k2[3], turn. RS: sl1 wyif, p1[2], (k4, p4) 3 times, k4, p2[3], turn. Repeat these 2 rows 15 more times and the WS row once more.

SIZES

To fit: S[L] Foot length is adjustable.

YOU WILL NEED

6

Truly Hooked Standard Sock 75% Merino, 25% nylon (approx 435m per 100g) 1 x 100g skein in Sunshine Yellow 2.5mm circular or double-pointed needles Stitch markers Note: Yarn amounts are based on average requirements and are approximate.

16 17 7 18

TENSION 19

28 sts and 44 rows to 10cm over st st. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

20 8

ABBREVIATIONS

21

C6B = cable 6 back: sl3 sts to cn and hold at back of work, k3, then k3 from cn C6F = cable 6 front: sl3 sts to cn and hold at front of work, k3, then k3 from cn

Turn heel

Next row: With RS facing, sl1, k17[19], ssk, k1, turn. Next row: P1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn. Row 1: sl1, k to 1 st before the gap, ssk to close the gap, k1, turn. Row 2: sl1, p to 1 st before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn. Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you cannot decrease across the gap anymore, finishing on a RS row.

Gusset

Pick up and knit evenly along the left side of your heel flap, pm and continue to work in pattern as set before across the instep, remembering to add an extra knit stitch at the start of the round. Pm, pick up and knit

Small chart

22

For more abbreviations see page 91 9 23

FIRST SOCK

24 25 10 26

Pattern from Cowl Girls 2 by Cathy Carron, published by Sixth & Spring, available from thegmcgroup.com.

27 11 28 29

84

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 84

Cast on 64[72] using a long tail or cable cast on. Join in the round, taking care not to twist stitches. (P2[3], k4, p4, k4, p2[3]) to end. Place a marker after the first 32[36] stitches and another at the end of the round. This is important for working the main pattern. Work a total of 10 rows in rib.

Main pattern

Working from the bottom right-hand corner of the Chart, knit row 1 and then knit to first marker to establish pattern, followed by

Large chart

Key k

purl

C6B

C6F

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cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2

Work 32[40:46] sts, place next 75[90:102] sts on to a stitch holder for Back, place rem 32[40:46] sts onto a stitch holder for Left Front.

Right Front

Neck Shaping

9

With RS facing, cast off 2 sts at beg of next row, 2 sts at beg of foll alt row twice, 1 st at beg of foll alt row 3 times. 16[21:27] sts. Cont straight until work meas 36[44:50]cm (14[17¼:19¾]in), ending with a WS row. Cast off rem sts.

10 4 19 20

Place sts from Back stitch holder back on to a 3.5mm needle, with RS facing. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, 2 sts at beg of next row 2[4:4] times, 1 st at beg of next row 4[6:6] times. 61[70:82] sts. Cont straight until work meas 36[44:50]cm (14[17¼:19¾]in), ending with a WS row. Cast off rem sts.

7 18 8

85

22

Using 3mm needles, cast on 41[44:48] sts in A. Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1, rep from * to last 1[0:0] st, k1[0:0]. Row 2: P1[0:0], *k1, p1; rep from *to end. Last 2 rows form 1x1 rib. Cont in 1x1 rib until work meas 8cm (3in), ending with a WS row. Change to 3.5mm needles. Work rows 1 to 57 from Chart, working sts outlined in red[yellow:pink] for the Sleeves only and omitting the partial cat figures within these lines, ie work just the two central cat figures. Odd rows are worked in knit from right to left, and even rows are worked in purl from left to right. Cont in st st throughout using A only, inc 1 st at each end of every 4th[6th:7th] row, until there are 69[72:78] sts.

29

SLEEVES

21 9 23 24 25 10 26

27 11 28

Using 3mm needles, cast on 139[170:194] sts in A. Work 2cm (1in) in st st to create a folded bottom hem. Change to 3.5mm needles. Work rows 1 to 57 from Chart, according to size. Odd rows are worked in knit from right to left, and even rows are worked in purl from left to right. Cont in st st throughout, using A only until work measures 25[32:37]cm (9¾[12½:14½]in), ending with a WS row.

17

BACK AND FRONT (worked in one piece)

16

Abbreviations see page 91

6

25 sts and 31 rows to 10cm over st st patt using 3.5mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

15

TENSION

Back

14

DesignEtte Merinette 100% Merino wool (140g per 50g) 4[6:8] x 50g balls in White 130 (A) 2[3:4] x 50g balls in Black 2100 (B) 1[1:1] x 50g ball in Pale Blue 330 (C) 1 pair of 3mm needles 1 pair of 3.5mm needles 2 stitch holders Metal zip 33[41:47]cm (13[16:18½]in) long

With WS facing, cast off 2 sts at beg of next row, 2 sts at beg of foll alt row twice, 1 st at beg of foll alt row 3 times. 16[21:27] sts. Cont straight until work meas 36[44:50]cm (14[17¼:19¾]in), ending with a RS row. Cast off rem sts.

13

YOU WILL NEED

Neck Shaping

5

Age: 2-4[6-8:10-12] years Chest width: 62[74.5:83.5]cm (24½[29½:33]in) Length: 36[44:50]cm

Place sts from Left Front stitch holder back on to a 3.5mm needle, with RS facing. Cast off 3 sts at beg of next row, 2 sts at beg of foll alt row 1[2:2] times, 1 st at beg of foll alt row 2[3:3] times. 25[30:36] sts. Cont straight until work meas 32[40:44]cm (12½[15¾:17¼]in), ending with a RS row.

12

SIZES

11

Left Front

knittingmag.com

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 85

8

Pattern from The Sock Drawer by Verity Castledine, available from Truly Hooked’s shop on etsy.com.

3

Weave in ends and block if desired. ●

7

With WS facing, cast off 3 sts at beg of next row, 2 sts at beg of foll alt row 1[2:2] times, 1 st at beg of foll alt row 2[3:3] times. 25[30:36] sts. Cont straight until work meas 32[40:44]cm (12½[15¾:17¼]in), ending with a WS row.

6

TO FINISH

2

Knit the ribbing as the first sock, then work as folls: Rnd 1: K to 18 sts before marker, p4[6], C6F, C6B, p2[3], * p2[3], k4, p4, k4, p2[3] * to end. Rnd 2: K to 18 sts before marker, p4[6] k12, p2[3] * p2[3], k4, p4, k4, p2[3] * to end. Rnds 3 to 6: As rnd 2. Work the remainder of the sock in the same way as the first, BUT with each repeat, KNIT ONE STITCH FEWER before the cable section AND knit one additional stitch after the cable section before the marker For example: Patt rep 4: K to 17 sts before marker, p4[6], C6F, C6B, p2[3] k1, sm, rib to end of rnd. Patt rep 5: K to 16 sts before marker, p4[6], C6F, C6B, p2[3], k2, sm, rib to end of rnd. Patt rep 6: K to 15 sts before marker, p4[6], C6F, C6B, p2[3], k3, sm, rib to end of rnd. Cont in this way until you have worked 10 repeats, then work the remainder of the sock in the same way as the first sock, ensuring you continue the pattern as set on the instep of the foot.

4

SECOND SOCK

3

Divide fronts and back

Shape toe

Rnd 1: K until 3 sts before your first marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, k until 3 sts before next marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, k to end of round. Rnd 2: Knit. Repeat these two rnds until you have 12 sts between each marker and use Kitchener stitch to graft the toe closed.

1

BLUE-EYED CAT SWEATER BY EVA CARSTENSEN FOR DESIGNETTE

5

evenly down right side of heel flap. Knit to first marker. Knit a full round, working in pattern as set across the instep. Rnd 1: Knit pattern as set across instep, sm, k1, ssk, k to 3 st before m, k2tog, k1. Rnd 2: Knit a full round, working pattern as set across instep. Repeat rnds 1 and 2, working the pattern as before on the instep, remembering to add an extra knit stitch at the start of each round with each full repeat. Cont in this way until you have 32[36] sts between your markers on both the instep and the sole. Knit in pattern until your cable has travelled across the sock, and your row ends with 4[6] purl stitches before the marker. Knit until your sock is 4-5cm (1½-2in) shorter than your desired length.

25/01/2017 16:36


cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1 3

Cont straight until work meas 19[27:35]cm (7½[10¾:13¾]in), ending with a WS row.

Sleeve cap 4 5 2

Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows, 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows, 1 st at beg of next 10[14:16] rows, 2 sts at beg of next 4 rows, 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 35[34:38] sts. Cast off rem sts.

6

LEFT FRONT BORDER

7 3 8 9 10 4

Using 3mm needles and A, with RS facing, pick up and k76[92:108] sts along the Left Front border. Purl 1 row. Work 8 rows from Border Chart with left facing arrows, working the 8-st rep marked in blue box until the last 4 sts, then working last 4 sts from Chart. Work 9 rows in st st using A only to create a folded back section. Cast off.

Body Chart 2-4

11

RIGHT FRONT BORDER

12 5 13 14 15 6

Using 3mm needles and A, with RS facing, pick up and k76[92:108] sts along the Right Front border. Purl 1 row. Work 8 rows from Border Chart with right facing arrows, working the 8-st rep marked in blue box until the last 4 sts, then working last 4 sts from Chart. Work 9 rows in st st using A only to create a folded back section. Cast off.

16

NECK BORDER

17 7 18 19 20 8 21

Using 3mm needles and A, with RS facing, pick up and k76[84:92] sts along the Right Front (colour section only), the neckline and the Left Front border (colour section only). Purl 1 row. Work 8 rows from Border Chart with right facing arrows, working the 8-st rep marked in blue box until the last 4 sts, then working last 4 sts from Chart. Work 9 rows in st st using A only to create a folded back section. Cast off.

Body Chart 6-8

Body Chart 10-12

TO FINISH 22 9 23 24 25 10 26 27 11 28

Seam together using mattress st, beg with the shoulder seams. Pin the sleeves to the armholes. Mark the centre of the top of the sleeves and align this point with the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeves in. Sew the folded back section of the Right and Left Front, and the lower edge using whip stitches. Sew the right side of the zip to the right side of the sweater using back stitches, by pinning it at the top of the Neck Border where the pattern meets the folded back section, and at the bottom of the Front border. Repeat this procedure for the left side. Finally align the folded back section of the neck border nicely to the back of the zipper and sew using whip stitches. ●

29

86

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 86

Border Pattern Left Front

Right Front and Neck

knittingmag.com

19/01/2017 12:16


cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2

STRIPED CABLE BLANKET BY MARY MAXIM

1 3

NADENE BY JO ALLPORT

4 5 2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11 12 5 13

ABBREVIATIONS

9 23 24

C8B = Slip next 4 sts on to cn and hold at back of work, k4 from left-hand needle, then k4 from cn

22

Each 38-st panel should be 16.5cm (6½in) wide and 24 rows meas 9cm (3½in). Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

For more abbreviations see page 91

25 10

BLANKET PANEL

26

Make five, one in each colour. Using A, cast on 38 sts and knit 7 rows. Next row: K6, kfb 4 times, k18, kfb 4 times, k6 (46 sts).

27 11 28

Row 1 (RS): K4, p2, k8, p2, k2tog, k5, yo,

Set pattern

87

29

knittingmag.com

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 87

TENSION

21

Row 1 (RS): K1, ssk, k to 2 sts before marked st, ssk, k1 (marked st), k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (dec of 4 sts). Row 2: Knit. Row 3: K2, *k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Row 4: Knit. Row 5: As row 1 (dec of 4 sts). Row 6: Purl. Row 7: K to 2 sts before marked st, ssk, k1 (marked st), k2tog, k to end (dec of 2 sts). Row 8: Purl.

Sew the side seams together, matching pattern. Sew in ends and block lightly if required. ●

8

BODY PATTERN

20

TO FINISH

Any DK-weight yarn 2 x 50g balls (approx 316m) in each of the following colours: Blue (A) Pink (B) Lilac (C) Yellow (D) Mint (E) 4mm needles Cable needle Note: Yarn amounts are based on average requirements and are approximate.

19

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91

TENSION

YOU WILL NEED

7 18

15 sts and 26 rows to 10cm over Body Patt using 5mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

With 5mm needles, cast on 121[133:145:157] sts. Set-up row (WS): K60[66:72:78], k1, placing marker on this st, k60[66:72:78]. Move the stitch marker as you go and work in Body Patt for 9[10:11:12] 8-row patt reps, ending with a WS row. 31[33:35:37] sts. Cont in Neck Patt for a total of 20[24:28:32] rows, ending with a WS row. Knit 3 rows, ending with a RS row. Cast off loosely on the WS.

82.5 x 106.5cm (32½ x 42in)

17

FRONT AND BACK (both alike)

SIZE

16

Stylecraft Ombré 78% acrylic, 22% wool (190m per 100g) 3[3:4:4] x 100g balls in 2444 Sunset 1 pair 5mm knitting needles Stitch marker Yarn needle Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

Row 1 (RS): Knit. Rows 2, 4, 5 and 7: Knit. Row 3: K2, *k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Row 6: Purl. Row 8: Purl.

6

YOU WILL NEED

NECK PATTERN

15

To fit age: 4[6:8:10] years Length from point to neck edge: 51[57.5:64:70.5]cm, (20[22½:25¼:27¾]in)

14

SIZE

19/01/2017 12:16


cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1

GOOD AND BAD FAIRIES BY SARAH KEEN

3 4 5 2 6 7 3 8 9 10 4 11 12 5 13 14 15 6 16 17 7 18 19

k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, skpo, p2, k8, p2, k4. Row 2: K6, p8, k2, p14, k2, p8, k6. Row 3: K4, p2, k8, p2, k2tog, k4, yo, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k1, skpo, p2, k8, p2, k4. Row 4: As row 2. Row 5: K4, p2, C8B, p2, k2tog, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, skpo, p2, C8B, p2, k4. Row 6: As row 2. Row 7: K4, p2, k8, p2, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, skpo, yo, k5, skpo, p2, k8, p2, k4. Row 8: As row 2. Row 9: K4, p2, k8, p2, k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, skpo, yo, k4, skpo, p2, k8, p2, k4. Row 10: As row 2. Row 11: K4, p2, k8, p2, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, skpo, yo, k3, skpo, p2, k8, p2, k4. Row 12: As row 2. Repeat these 12 pattern rows 21 more times, then rep rows 1-7 once more. Next row: K6, k2tog 4 times, k18, k2tog 4 times, k6 (38 sts). Knit 7 rows. Cast off knitwise.

20

TO FINISH 8

21

Sew panels together neatly as shown in photo. ●

SIZE

Doll stands 19cm (7½in) tall. Wand measures 8cm (3¼in) long.

YOU WILL NEED

Any DK yarn: 20g rose pink (A) 20g dark grey (B) 10g pale pink (C) 30g white (D) 20g mauve (E) 20g silver grey (F) 10g black (G) 5g fawn (H) 10g buttermilk (I) Oddments of black, red, pale pink and dark grey for embroidery and black for making up 1 pair of 3.25mm needles Knitters’ blunt-ended pins and a needle for sewing up Acrylic toy stuffing A red pencil for shading cheeks 1 chenille stem Note: Yarn amounts are based on average requirements and are approximate.

TENSION

22

26 sts and 34 rows to 10cm over st st before stuffing. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

9 23

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 91 24

BODICE AND HEAD (MAKE 2)

25 10 26

Pattern from Dreamy Baby Wraps by Mary Maxim, published by Leisure Arts. Available from thegmcgroup. com.

27 11 28 29

88

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 88

Make one Bodice beginning in A for Good Fairy and one beginning in B for Bad Fairy. For both, switch to C for head. Using the thumb method and A or B, cast on 24 sts, WS facing to beg. Rows 1 to 8: Beg with a p row, work 8 rows in st st, ending with a RS row. Rows 9 to 11: Change to C for neck and beg with a p row, work 3 rows in st st.

Place a marker on last row for neck gathering. Rows 12 and 13: Work 2 rows in st st. Row 14: K2, (m1, k4) to last 2 sts, m1, k2, (30 sts). Rows 15 to 25: Beg with a p row, work 11 rows in st st.

Shape top of head

Row 26: (K2tog, k1) to end (20 sts). Row 27: Purl. Row 28: (K2tog) to end (10 sts). Thread yarn through sts on needle, pull tight and secure by threading yarn a second time through sts.

SKIRT FOR GOOD FAIRY

Beg at lower edge using the thumb method and D, cast on 72 sts, WS facing to beg. Rows 1 to 8: Beg with a p row, work 8 rows in st st, ending with a RS row (this part is turned under). Row 9 (picot edge): P1, k1, (yrn, k2tog) to end. Rows 10 and 11: K 1 row then p 1 row. Rows 12 to 21: Change to A and work 10 rows in g st. Rows 22 to 37: Change to E and beg with a k row, work 16 rows in st st. Row 38: (K2tog, k4) to end (60 sts). Rows 39 to 43: Beg with a p row, work 5 rows in st st. Row 44: (K2tog, k2) to end (45 sts). Row 45: Purl. Row 46: (K2tog, k1) to end (30 sts). Row 47: Purl. Cast off.

SKIRT FOR BAD FAIRY

Beg at lower edge using the thumb method and D, cast on 72 sts, WS facing to beg. Rows 1 to 9: Beg with a p row, work 9 rows in st st (this part is turned under). Rows 10 to 23: Change to F and work 14 rows in g st.

knittingmag.com

19/01/2017 12:16


cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 4

Bodice and head

12 5 13 14

Sew up row ends of both bodices and heads and stuff. Place lower edges of bodices together matching seams and oversew caston stitches, leaving a gap. Add more stuffing to waist and sew up gap. To shape necks, take a double length of pale pink yarn and sew a running stitch round row with marker, sewing in and out of every half stitch. Pull tight and knot yarn and sew ends into neck.

11

Skirt

16 17 7 18 19

Sleeves, arms, hands and sleeve frills for Good Fairy

6

Sew up row ends of both skirts and turn under lower edge and hem cast-on stitches to last row of border on wrong side. Place one skirt on doll over head, and with seam at centre back sew cast-off stitches at waist to first row of bodice. Turn doll the other way up and pull skirt down to lower edge and place second skirt on doll over head. With seam at centre back sew cast-off stitches at waist to first row of bodice.

15 21 22 9 23 24 25 10 26 27

Sleeves, cuffs and hands for Bad Fairy

8

Sew up row ends of hands and place a small ball of stuffing into hands. Sew up row ends of arms and sleeves from wrist to 13mm (½in) below shoulder. Stuff arms and sleeves and finish sewing up row ends. With seam at centre of inside edge, sew across caston stitches. To shape wrist, take a double length of pale pink yarn and sew a running stitch round row with marker at wrist, sewing in and out of every half stitch. Pull tight and knot yarn and sew ends into wrist. Fold picot edge of sleeve frills under and hem cast-on stitches in place. Place sleeve frills around arms and sew up row ends. Sew cast-off stitches of sleeve frills to arms using back stitch on right side. Sew cast-on stitches of arms to third row below neck at each side by oversewing, so that the arms are hinged and can fall below head.

20

Sew up row ends of hands and place a small ball of stuffing into hands. Sew row ends of

29

89

11 28

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 89

Note: Sew up all row-end seams on right side using mattress stitch one stitch in from the edge, unless otherwise stated. A one-stitch seam allowance has been made for this.

10

knittingmag.com

MAKING UP

9

Make one Neck Edging in E for Good Fairy and one in B for Bad Fairy. Using the thumb method and E or B, cast on

Make 1 pair of wings in D for Good Fairy and 1 pair of wings in F for Bad Fairy. Beg at lower edge using the thumb method and D or F, cast on 5 sts and work in g st. Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1 (7 sts). Rows 3 to 6: Rep rows 1 and 2 twice more

8

NECK EDGINGS

WINGS (MAKE 2 PAIRS)

3

Beg at shoulder using the thumb method and G, cast on 10 sts. Row 1 (WS): Purl. Row 2: K1, (m1, k2) to last st, m1, k1 (15 sts). Rows 3 to 15: Beg with a p row, work 13 rows in st st. Change to F for cuff and dec: Row 16: (K2tog, k3) to end (12 sts). Row 17: Knit. Rows 18 to 21: Change to C for hand and beg with a k row, work 4 rows in st st. Row 22: (K2tog, k1) to end (8 sts). Thread yarn through sts on needle, pull tight and secure by threading yarn a second time through sts.

Using the thumb method and I, cast on 68 sts and beg in g st, RS facing to beg. Rows 1 and 2: Work 2 rows in g st. Row 3: K2, k2tog tbl, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2 (66 sts). Rows 4 and 5: Knit. Row 6: K3, p to last 3 sts, k3. Row 7: Knit. Row 8: As row 6. Row 9: As row 3 (64 sts). Row 10: As row 6. Row 11: K10, (k2tog, k4) 8 times, k6 (56 sts). Row 12: As row 6. Row 13: As row 3 (54 sts). Row 14: As row 6. Row 15: K5, (k2tog, k4) to last st, k1 (46 sts). Row 16: As row 6. Row 17: Knit. Row 18: As row 6. Row 19: K2tog, (k2, k2tog) to end (34 sts). Row 20: As row 6. Row 21: K1, (k2tog, k1) to end (23 sts). Cast off kwise.

7

SLEEVES, CUFFS AND HANDS FOR BAD FAIRY (MAKE 2)

OVERSKIRT FOR BAD FAIRY

6

Beg at inside edge of frill and using the thumb method and D, cast on 16 sts, WS facing to beg. Rows 1 and 2: P 1 row then k 1 row (this part is turned under). Row 3 (picot edge): P1, k1, (yrn, k2tog) to end. Rows 4 and 5: K 1 row then p 1 row. Row 6: Change to A and k 1 row. Cast off kwise.

Using the thumb method and H, cast on 14 sts, RS facing to beg. Cast off pwise.

2

Sleeve frills

HAIR LOOPS FOR GOOD FAIRY (MAKE 4)

5

Beg at shoulder using the thumb method and E, cast on 10 sts. Row 1 (WS): Purl. Row 2: K1, (m1, k2) to last st, m1, k1 (15 sts). Rows 3 to 7: Beg with a p row, work 5 rows in st st. Row 8: (K2tog, k3) to end (12 sts). Rows 9 to 17: Change to C for arm and beg with a p row, work 9 rows in st st. Place a marker on last row for wrist gathering. Rows 18 to 21: Work 4 rows in st st. Row 22: (K2tog, k1) to end (8 sts). Thread yarn through sts on needle, pull tight and secure by threading yarn a second time through sts.

Make one Hair in H for Good Fairy and one in G for Bad Fairy. Beg at lower edge using the thumb method and H or G, cast on 14 sts and work in g st. Row 1 (RS): Knit. Row 2: K2, (m1, k2) to end (20 sts). Row 3: Knit. Row 4: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1 (22 sts). Rows 5 to 18: Rep rows 3 and 4 seven more times (36 sts). Row 19: K2, k2tog, (k4, k2tog) to last 2 sts, k2 (30 sts). Row 20 and foll 2 alt rows: Knit. Row 21: (K2tog, k3) 3 times, (k3, k2tog) 3 times (24 sts). Row 23: (K2tog, k1) 4 times, (k1, k2tog) 4 times (16 sts). Row 25: (K2tog) to end (8 sts). Row 26: Knit. Thread yarn through sts on needle, pull tight and secure by threading yarn a second time through sts.

4

Arms and hands

HAIR

(11 sts). Rows 7 to 9: Work 3 rows in g st. Row 10: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1 (13 sts). Rows 11 to 14: Rep rows 7 to 10 once (15 sts). Rows 15 to 28: Work 14 rows in g st. Row 29: (K2tog, k1) to end (10 sts). Rows 30 to 32: Work 3 rows in g st. Row 33: (K2tog) to end (5 sts). Row 34: Knit. Thread yarn through sts on needle, pull tight and secure by threading yarn a second time through sts. Rep second wing as first.

3

SLEEVES, ARMS, HANDS AND SLEEVE FRILLS FOR GOOD FAIRY (MAKE 2)

30 sts, RS facing to beg. Cast off pwise.

1

Rows 24 to 39: Change to B and beg with a k row, work 16 rows in st st. Row 40: (K2tog, k4) to end (60 sts). Rows 41 to 45: Beg with a p row, work 5 rows in st st. Row 46: (K2tog, k2) to end (45 sts). Row 47: Purl. Row 48: (K2tog, k1) to end (30 sts). Row 49: Purl. Cast off.

19/01/2017 12:16


cm

in

1

PATTERNS

2 1 3 4 5 2

cuffs and sleeves from wrist to 13mm (½in) below shoulder. Stuff sleeves and finish sewing up row ends. With seam at centre of inside edge, sew across cast-on stitches. Oversew cast-on stitches of arms to third row below neck at each side, so that the arms are hinged and can fall below head.

Features for Good Fairy 6 7 3 8 9 10 4

Mark position of eyes with two pins on 7th row above neck spacing two knitted stitches apart. Embroider eyes in black and make a small chain stitch beginning at marked position and ending on row above, and work a second chain stitch on top of first. Embroider mouth in red, making a shallow V shape on the 3rd and 4th rows below eyes over two stitches. Embroider nose in pale pink on row below eyes, making a bundle of five stitches over one stitch. Shade cheeks with a red pencil.

Features for Bad Fairy 11 12 5 13

Embroider eyes in black, as for Good Fairy. Using picture as a guide, embroider two eyebrows in black and a mouth turned down in dark grey using two straight stitches. Embroider nose in pale pink, as for Good Fairy. Shade cheeks with a red pencil.

Neck edging 14

Place neck edgings around necks and oversew row ends. Pin and sew neck edging around top of dresses and over shoulders using back stitch down centre of edging.

15 6

Hair and hair loops for Good Fairy

16 17 7 18

Oversew row ends of decreasing rows of hair pieces from crown to forehead. Place hair on head and pull down to neck at back. Pin and sew outside edge of hair to head using back stitch all the way round. Oversew row ends of hair loops and sew two hair loops to each side of head.

Hair for Bad Fairy 19 20 8 21

Embroider a loop in black at top of forehead, securing loop with a small stitch. Cut loop and unravel yarn and trim ends to eyebrows. Embroider two loops at both sides of head and cut loops and unravel yarn and trim ends to 5cm (2in). Make up hair, as for Good Fairy.

Overskirt for Bad Fairy 22 9 23

Place overskirt around Bad Fairy and sew cast-off stitches to row above waist and sew all edges down.

Wings

24

Sew up row ends of each wing leaving a gap, stuff and sew up gap. Place wings side by side and sew together at lower edge. Sew wings to fairies above waist at back and to head at each side.

25 10 26

WAND Stick

27 11 28

Using the thumb method and F, cast on 5 sts, WS facing to beg. Beg with a p row, work in st st for 7.5cm (3in). Cast off.

29

90

K165_P52-90_Pattern instructions.indd 90

Head of wand Using the thumb method and D, cast on 8 sts. Row 1 (WS): Purl. Row 2: K1, (m1, k1) to end (15 sts). Rows 3 and 4: P 1 row then k 1 row. Row 5 (picot edge): P1, k1 (yrn, k2tog) to last st, p1. Rows 6 and 7: K 1 row then p 1 row. Row 8: K1, (k2tog) to end (8 sts). Row 9: Purl. Thread yarn through sts on needle, pull tight and secure by threading yarn a second time through sts.

Making up

Fold chenille stem in half and twist together and cut to 6.5cm (2½in). Place stick of wand around chenille stem and oversew row ends along length enclosing chenille stem inside. Gather round cast-on stitches of head of wand, pull tight and secure. Fold head of wand along picot edge and place stick inside and sew around all row ends. ●

Pattern from TopsyTurvy Knitted Dolls by Sarah Keen, published by GMC. Available from thegmcgroup. com.

knittingmag.com

19/01/2017 12:16


ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

STOCKISTS CASCADE YARNS W: cascadeyarns.com

DAUGHTER OF A SHEPHERD E: info@daughterofashepherd.com W: daughterofashepherd.com

DEBBIE BLISS Designer Yarns

T: 01535 664222 E: enquiries@designeryarns.uk.com W: designeryarns.uk.com

DESIGNETTE

T: +45 5837 1011 E: info@designette.dk W: designette.co.uk

DROPS

ABBREVIATIONS k p alt beg ch cm cn cont dc dec dpn(s) foll g g st in inc k2tog

W: garnstudio.com

DUTTONS FOR BUTTONS

T: 01423 502092 E: michelle@duttonsforbuttons.co.uk

ERIKA KNIGHT TB Ramsden

T: 01943 494184 E: sales@tbramsden.co.uk W: tbramsden.co.uk W: erikaknight.co.uk

MRS MOON

T: 020 8144 8435 E: info@mrsmoon.co.uk W: mrsmoon.co.uk

NEW LANARK WOOL & TEXTILES T: 01555 661345 E: enquiries@newlanarkshop.co.uk W: newlanarkshop.co.uk

RICO

E: info@rico-design.de W: rico-design.de

k3tog kfb kwise LH/RH m1

m1p meas mm m st ndl p2tog p3tog patt pm psso

pwise rem rep rev st st

purlwise remain/ing repeat reverse stocking stitch (RS purl, WS knit) rnd round RS/WS right side/wrong side skpo slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over (decrease 1) sk2po slip one, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over (decrease 2) s2kpo slip two stitches one at a time knitwise, knit one, pass two slipped stitches over (decrease 2) sp2po slip one purlwise, purl two together, pass slipped stitch over (decrease 2) sl1 slip one stitch sl1p slip one stitch purlwise sm slip marker ssk slip next two stitches one at a time, knitwise, to right hand needle, insert tip of left hand needle through both stitches and knit them together (decrease 1) st(s) stitch(es) st st stocking stitch tbl through back loop tog together tr treble crochet w&t wrap and turn wyib with yarn in the back wyif with yarn in the front yfwd yarn forward yo yarn over yrn yarn round needle y2rn yarn twice round needle

SHILASDAIR

SKILL LEVELS EXPLAINED

SUBLIME

Beginner: If you’ve never knitted before, these are the projects to start you off. Look for tutorials online about casting on, casting off, knitting, purling, increasing and decreasing – watch them through a few times and you’ll soon be ready to go.

T: 01470 592790 E: sales@shilasdair-yarns.com W: shilasdair-yarns.com T: 01924 369666 E: contactus@sublimeyarns.com W: sublimeyarns.com

TOFT

T: 01788 810626 E: help@toftuk.com W: thetoftalpacashop.co.uk

TRULY HOOKED W: trulyhooked.com

Beginner Plus: You’re happy with the knitting basics but haven’t quite made that leap to knitting your first jumper. These are the projects for you. Intermediate: You know your knitting and are familiar with the language, but don’t want to take on something extremely complex or in-depth. These projects will develop your knitting skills and challenge you, but won’t be over-taxing. Advanced: These are the ones for all you knitting experts out there. Cables, lacework, fancy stitches – nothing is too tricky for you, so we’ve got plenty of challenging knits for real aficionados.

knittingmag.com

K165_P91_Tips.indd 91

knit purl alternative begin/ning chain centimetre/s cable needle continue double crochet decrease double-pointed needle(s) follows/following gramme/s garter stitch (every row knit) inch/es increase knit two stitches together (decrease 1) knit three stitches together (decrease 2) knit into front and back of next stitch (increase 1) knitwise left hand/right hand make 1 stitch: pick up the loop lying between the two stitches and knit into the back of it (increase 1) make 1 purlwise measures millimetre/s moss stitch needle purl two stitches together (decrease 1) purl three stitches together (decrease 2) pattern place marker pass slipped stitch over

91

23/01/2017 16:51


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1/20/17 11:40 AM


PURL ABOUT TOWN Laura ‘Purl Princess’ Parkinson discovers she’s buried deep in yarn ends and wonders what she’s going to do with them all

W

hen you get to the end of a project, your attentions are understandably focused on the finished item you have just created. But what happens to the leftover yarn? For me, it is always sucked into the black hole of my stash and quickly forgotten about. But alarmingly, after a few years of this, at least half of my stash is now made up of leftover yarn – balls that won’t make a whole item by themselves, that don’t quite match any other yarn I have and that, for some reason, I can’t bear to throw away. But, in reality, will I ever get around to using them? There are lots of great projects out there to use up your leftovers. Google “yarn scraps” and you will be faced with countless lists along the lines of “50 creative ways to use up scrap yarn”. Almost all of these involve making lots of pompoms to string around the room or crocheted flowers to fill a large jar or put inside a box picture frame. I prefer more substantial projects, such as blankets, scarves, shawls and hats, and there is a multitude of patterns out there when you start looking, most of them involving lots of coloured stripes to use up those different yarn ends. The main difficulty when mixing yarns is getting a similar weight and fibre type. Once you start combining, say, a lace-weight stripe with an aran-weight stripe, or wool with linen, the results can get rather wonky if you’re not careful. I had been holding on to all my sock yarn scraps for years, with the thought of starting

a long-term investment blanket project. The first ball was from eight years ago, so I thought it was about time I made a start. I chose a simple sock yarn square pattern and really enjoyed knitting square after square on my Underground commute each day. Until one day the unthinkable happened: I ran out of leftovers. I had not anticipated this and briefly considered buying more sock yarn – until I realised that buying new yarn for a leftovers blanket was ridiculous. The great thing about using up leftover yarn in this way is that it is something you can do in between other projects, and you shouldn’t put a time limit on it. A few years ago Tiny Owl

MUST HAVE:

My favourite mini-skeins have to be Madelinetosh Unicorn Tails, mainly because of the name, but also because of their dazzling colours. Check them out at ayarnstory.co.uk

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If I didn’t have to save all my future sock yarn scraps for my leftovers blanket I would like to make Mad Mix Socks by Virpi Tarvo. Mix the colours, mix the patterns and create a crazy pair of socks! The pattern is free to download from ravelry.com

Knits’ The Beekeeper’s Quilt was the project of the moment: little hexagon pockets that you filled with stuffing and popped into a basket of what they called “hexipuffs” to be joined into a blanket at some point in the future. I wonder how many people are still cranking out hexipuffs but haven’t managed to get to a blanket-sized amount yet? There is something strangely compelling about small amounts of yarn. Yarn Harlot blogger Stephanie Pearl-McPhee went so far as to say that mini-skeins are like crack cocaine to her. Madeline Tosh, Hedgehog Fibers and SweetGeorgia yarns are just a few of the producers who have brought out mini-skein ranges to cater for this craving. These little 20g skeins of zingy shades give you a pop of colour on the edges of shawls, in jumper yokes or contrasting heels and toes for socks. I have been totally sucked in by them, and last Christmas was sorely tempted by Opal’s advent calendar, which had a 15g ball of sock yarn behind each door, to bring together in crazy multi-coloured socks or granny squares. I have so many leftovers that I’ve kept just in case, but I have to face up to the fact that I am simply never going to use them. So I’ve made the executive decision to donate the majority of the leftovers to a school, where they will probably go into creative craft projects like pompoms to string around the room or crocheted flowers to fill a large jar or put inside a box picture frame.

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Knitting march 2017