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Scandi FA L L 2 019 OC TO B E R 2 019

WH AT TO D O T HI S FA L L I N WH AT S ROKN I N O C TO BER DEN M’ A S WE D E N SN TOC K H OL M O RWAY CO PEA NN HAG I C EL D EN RFI EYNL K JAVIK AND HE L S IN K I OSLO EV E RY DA N ISH PA S T RY TO T RY IN C O P EN HAGEN EV ERY DA N IS H PA S T RY TO T RY IN C O P ENHAGEN

TRANSPOR TATION GUIDE

6 T H IN G S TO D O I N 6 T HDIN S ETO DO IN LUN , SGW D EN LUN D , S W E D EN


Scandi Scandinavia Standard’s streamlined travel guide to bridge Scandinavia and the world.


TABLE OF CONTE NTS


5

Introduction

11

Denmark

37

Sweden

59

Norway

91

Iceland

105

Finland

3


scandinavian design the heir of international style


This magazine was created under the banner of

the combination of typography and photography

Scandinavian design. Scandinavian design values

as a means of visual communication. The primary

simplicity and readability to place the content at

influential works were developed as posters, which

the forefront of the visual experience. It would be

were seen to be the most effective means of

impossible, however, to recognize Scandinavian

communication.

design without giving credit to it’s forefather, Swiss International Style.

Keep reading to learn more about International Style and the visionary designers who made this

Often referred to as the International Typographic

publication a possibility

Style or the International Style, the style of design that originated in Switzerland in the 1940s and 50s was the basis of much of the development of graphic design during the mid 20th century. Led by designers Josef MĂźller-Brockmann at the Zurich School of Arts and Krafts and Armin Hofmann at the Basel School of Design, the style favored simplicity, legibility and objectivity. Of the many contributions to develop from the two schools were the use of, sans-serif typography, grids and asymmetrical layouts. Also stressed was

5


EMIL RUDER

and universal style of graphic design. The

is perhaps the most well-known Swiss

style of design they created had a goal of

designer and his name is probably the

Emil Ruder was a typographer and

communication above all else, practiced

most easily recognized when talking

graphic designer who, born in Switzerland

new techniques of photo-typesetting,

about the period. He was born and raised

in 1914, helped Armin Hofmann form the

photo-montage and experimental

in Switzerland and by the age of 43 he

Basel School of Design and establish the

composition and heavily favored sans-

became a teacher at the Zurich school of

style of design known as Swiss Design.

serif typography.

arts and crafts.

He taught that, above all, typography’s

He taught for several years at the Basel

purpose was to communicate ideas

School of Design and he was not there

through writing. He placed a heavy

long before he replaced Emil Ruder

importance on sans-serif typefaces

as the head of the school. The Swiss

and his work is both clear and concise,

International Style, and Hofmann, thought that one of the most efficient forms of communications was the poster and Hofmann spent much of his career designing posters, in particularly for the Basel Stadt Theater. Just as Emil Ruder and Joseph Müller-Brockmann did, Hofmann wrote a book outlining his Perhaps his most decisive work was done for the Zurich Town Hall as poster advertisements for its theater productions. He published several books, including The Graphic Artist and His

especially his typography.

Problems and Grid Systems in Graphic

Like most designers classified as part of

Design. These books provide an in-

the Swiss Design movement he favored

depth analysis of his work practices

asymmetrical compositions, placing

and philosophies, and provide an

a high importance on the counters of

excellent foundation for young graphic

characters and the negative space of

designers wishing to learn more about the profession. He spent most of his

compositions. A friend and associate of Hofmann, Frutiger and Müller

philosophies and practices. His Graphic

life working and teaching, even into the

Brockmann, Ruder played a key role in

Design Manual was, and still is, a

early 1990s when he toured the US and

the development of graphic design in

reference book for all graphic designers.

Canada speaking about his work. He died

the 1940s and 50s. His style has been

Main Ideas: Stressed belief in universal

in Zurich in 1996.

emulated by many designers, and his

style with main goal of communication;

Main Ideas: Most decisive work was

use of grids in design has influenced the

Photo-typesetting, photo-montage, and

poster ads for theater; published

development of web design on many

experimental composition with sans-

books with good foundation for young

levels.

serifs; posters as efficient forms of

designers; most well-known Swiss

design

designer

JOSEPH MÜLLER-BROCKMANN

HERBERT MATTER

already completed an apprenticeship

As with most graphic designers that

Herbert Matter worked with a number

in lithography and had begun teaching

can be classified as part of the Swiss

of famous designers and artists during

typography at the Basel School of Design.

International Style, Joseph Müller-

his career including Fernand Léger, Le

His colleagues and students were integral

Brockmann was influenced by the

Courbusier, Charles and Ray Eames,

in adding to work and theories that

ideas of several different design and art

Derberny & Peignot, A.M. Cassandre

surrounded the Swiss International Style,

movements including Constructivism, De

and Alexey Brodovitch. Matter was a

which stressed a belief in an absolute

Stijl, Suprematism and the Bauhaus. He

master of using photomontage, color

ARMIN HOFMANN By the age of 27 Armin Hofmann had


and typography in an expressive manner,

Sweet’s he taught at the State School of

Serifa and Avenir. Frutiger is one of

transcending the boundaries between

Graphic Arts in Prague. He was heavily

only a few typographers whose career

art and design. His design work often

influenced by the ideas of Modernism

spans across hot metal, photographic

favored a heavy use of photography. His

and his work was so well structured

and digital typesetting. He has also been

most recognizable works are the posters

instrumental in refining his own typefaces

he created for the Swiss Tourist Office,

to include more weights and true italics,

but his photography work for Harper’s

some examples are Frutiger Next and

Bazaar, under the direction of Brodovitch,

Avenir Next.

is equally impressive. A master in WIM CROUWEL

his profession, he began teaching

Crowel is a graphic designer and typographer born in the Netherlands. In 1963 he founded the studio Total Design, now called Total Identity. His most well known work has been for the Stedelijk Museum. His typography is extremely that he had no problems communicating

well planned and based on very strict

information clearly to an American audience, even though English was not his primary language. ADRIAN FRUTIGER photography and design at Yale in 1952.

Adrian Frutiger has created some of the

He continued to teach and work, notable

most used typefaces of the 20th and

work from his later career includes

21st century. Although interested in

the identity design for the New Haven

many fields including woodcut and paper

Railroad, until he died in 1984.

silhouettes, Frutiger has been passionate about typography for his entire life.

LADISLAV SUTNAR

Spending most of his career working for Deberny & Peignot updating typefaces

Sutnar, a Czech designer born in 1897,

and preparing them for photo-typesetting,

systems of grids. He has also designed

was one of the first designers to actively

as well as designing typefaces of his

expositions, album covers and identity

practice the field of information design.

own accord, he has created almost 30

systems. He has published two typefaces

His work was rooted in rationality and the

typefaces.

Fodor and Gridnik, digitized versions of

process of displaying massive amounts

Some of his most famous typefaces

both are available from The Foundry.

of information in a clear and organized WALTER HERDEG

manner for easy consumption by the general viewer. He placed a heavy emphasis on typography and primarily

Walter Herdeg was very much a

used a limited color palette. While he

graphic designer. He studied at the

often used punctuation symbols to

Kunstgewerbeschule in Zürich, created

help organize information one of his

many different corporate identities

signature creations was the idea to place

(just as the practice was beginning to

parentheses around the area codes in

become a standard), and even formed

telephone books.

his own design company with Walter

For nearly 20 years he served as the art

Amstutz. What he is best known for,

director for Sweet’s catalog services

however, is the creation and publication

where he created information graphics

of Graphis. An international journal of

and catalog layouts for a wide range of

include Univers, Frutiger (created for the

visual communication, Graphis was first

manufactured items. Before working for

Charles de Gaulle airport), Egyptienne,

published by Herdeg towards the end of 7


the second World War.

of several years of work, the graphics

The magazine showcases work and

were developed on a strict grid system,

interviews from designers and illustrators

solely used the typeface Univers and

from all over the world in an effort to

were created from a bright palette

share their work with other audiences.

developed from the colors of the Bavarian

In the beginning it served as one of what

countryside. He was a very proficient

were, at the time, only a few vessels which exposed the western world to the design work being done in Europe. Herdeg served as the editor of the

typographer and created the Rotis family of typefaces, which include sans-serif, semi-sans, serif and semi-serif iterations. The typefaces were named after the magazine for 246 issues (the magazine is

property where he lived and worked from

still in publication) as well as the Graphis

1972 until his death in 1991.

Design Annuals which showed the best and brightest work from the year prior to their publication. Graphis was a seminal force in the shaping of design culture and it continues to educate, expand and foster the world of graphic design today. OTL AICHER Aicher spent time fighting in the second world war for the German army, against his own beliefs. The experience affected him greatly and his first contributions as a designer were in an effort to revitalize the public after the devastation of the war. By 1947 Aicher had opened the doors at his own studio, BĂźro Aicher, and had begun accepting work from a variety of clients. Together with designer Max Bill he established the Hochschule fĂźr Gestaltung in Ulm, Germany and spent many years there as a professor. Perhaps the most prominent and influential work that he created was the identity system developed for the 1972 Olympics in Munich. The result


C RE DITS Images

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Table of Contents

FamousGraphicDesigners.org

Faces of Swiss

Wikipedia

Denmark

Design is History

Sweden

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Cover Table of Contents Iceland Finland

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Taylor

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US News

Table of Contents

Smarter Travel

Faces of Swiss

My Helsinki

Norway

Routes North

Credits

Scandinavia Standard VisitNorway.com

9


DENM


MARK


Denmark

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW all the essential information for your trip to Denmark

PASSPORT VALIDITY

L A N G UAG E

W E AT H E R

In Denmark, the language spoken is

45-54°F in October with an average of a

Danish. However, you don’t need to

31% chance of precipitation.

Recommend at least six months beyond your period of stay BLANK PASSPORT PAGES

speak Danish to get by in Denmark.

One page per stamp

Danes speak fantastic English, with

ELECTRICAL OUTLETS

barely a hint of an accent. TOURIST VISA REQUIRED

Plugs in Denmark are the same as the CURRENCY

rest of Europe. You will need an adapter

In Denmark, cards are king. However,

for charging any electronics. Your laptop

VACCINATIONS

you need to have a PIN number for your

or phone will have a converter built in, so

None

credit card. If you don’t have the PIN,

you just need the adapter part.

Not required for stays under 90 days

you can get declined. Likewise, cash is CURRENCY RESTRICTIONS

not common, so the vendor may not be

FOR ENTRY

able to provide change for you. For a bit

10,000 Euros (or equivalent)

of cash, ATMs are widely available. It is a

Public transportation in Denmark is very

good idea to pack your debit card when

efficient and runs on time. It’s a very

travelling to Denmark.

quiet experience, so be sure to talk softly.

CURRENCY RESTRICTIONS FOR EXIT 10,000 Euros (or equivalent)

TRANSPORTATION

Buses and trains can take you throughout In Denmark, including Copenhagen,

the country, albeit somewhat expensive

currency is the Krone. You get around

like everything in Denmark. Bicycles are

6.5-7 Krones per U.S. Dollar. Krones

also very popular in Denmark, and a good

come in coins (20, 10, 5, 2, 1, .50) and

way to get around on the bike paths.

bills (50, 100, 200, 500, 1000.) They do not use the Euro in Denmark! It’s important to remember the coins have value here, unlike in the States. 20 Krone coin is worth around $3, so keep track of them.

13


TRANSPORTATION GUIDE how to use public transportation in Copenhagen

The thing about Copenhagen is: they

Cityringen includes Nørrebro, Østerbro,

taking the same line.There are also the

have great public transport. As a person

and Copenhagen Central Station

regional trains that take you to parts of

who has lived all over the world, I cannot

(København H), making getting into the

Denmark outside Copenhagen. These go

stress this enough. Copenhagen has

city easier than ever! The next line to

beyond the zones of the s-tog network

GREAT public transport. It is reliable,

open, M4 stretches diagonally from

but operate on the same zone system

safe, and pervasive. Of course, like

Fiskerikaj to Ny Ellebjerg, including the

when closer to the centre.

everything in Copenhagen, it is not

modern neighborhood development of

cheap. There are elements of the system

Nordhavn. It will be partially open in 2020.

BUS

locals, but we’re here to help simplify it

Although some parts of the city are still

There are seven A-buses in central

all for you!

excluded from the metro (Nordvest,

Copenhagen, which are the primary bus

for example), there are more proposed

services, arriving every 3-7 minutes during

extensions and this is a major step to

peak times (07:00-09:00 in the morning

having the city more connected via metro!

and 15:30-17:30 in the afternoon) and

that can be a little confusing, even for

METRO The metro is in service 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Trains arrive every

otherwise every 10 minutes before and TRAIN

2-4 minutes during rush hour, and 3-6

after rush hour. They also operate at night with reduced frequency.

minutes outside rush hour and during the

The S-trains (s-tog) are inter-city and run

weekends. Double check with Journey

between 05:00 in the morning and 00:30

The are eight S-buses that drive every

Planner for times between midnight and

at night. Line F runs every 4-5 minutes,

5-10 minutes during rush hour and every

6 a.m. On the metro map, the numbers

line A, B, C and E run every 10 minutes,

20 minutes outside of rush hour. These

next to the station names show how

and line H and Bx run every 20 minutes.

are suburban buses that have fewer stops

many minute it takes on the train from

On Friday and Saturday the trains run

than the A-buses. They operate between

Nørreport.

once an hour between 01:00 and 05:00,

06:00 in the morning and 01:00 at night.

while line F runs every half hour during The original metro was 22 stops and

these hours.

only two lines. But since the end of

Other regular route buses that operate throughout Copenhagen are indicated by

September 2019, there are now an

When you change trains in Copenhagen,

additional 17 stops thanks to Cityringen

you always need to look at the screen

(also called M3), a circle line that

for information, as you will often leave

that connects to the older lines at

Copenhagen Central Station from a

Frederiksberg and Kongens Nytorv.

different platform every day even if you’re

the yellow lines.


Denmark

FERRY

TRANSPORTATION TIPS

All ferries (havnebusserne) in Copenhagen

Danish public transport operates without

are in zone 2. You can sail from Nyhavn

turnstiles.

via the Black Diamond to the Fisketorvet in 2 zones.

But be warned: ticket collectors roam the system regularly and are not lenient

Havnebusserne have six stops: Det

towards tourists.

Kongelige Bibliotek (Den Sorte Diamant) – Knippelsbro – Nyhavn – Holmen Syd –

Kids under 12 travel for free if they’re

Holmen Nord – Nordre Toldbod. The ferry

with an adult.

operates weekdays from 7:00 – 20:00, and on weekend 10:00 – 20:00.

Kids under 16 can purchase child fares.

BIKE

Small dogs and other pets travel for free, large dogs (ones that don’t fit in handheld

Google maps is a great way to find out

carriers) need a child fare.

the best bike path to take. Alternatively, you can use the method favored by our

Baby prams are free on all forms of

Creative Director Freya, Maps app for

transport.

iPhone: press “start” after determining your route, then Suri will dictate the directions for you, so you can keep your eyes on the road and enjoy the scenery.

15


THIS FALL IN COPENHAGEN


Denmark

SEPT 1-8

future. There will be over 200 events

SEPT 13-22

ZULU COMEDY FESTIVAL

including a talk about data sovereignty by

MUSIKFILM FESTIVALEN AT

„the Robin Hood of Data“, Barcelona’s

CINEMATEKET

ZULU Comedy Festival brings more than

Chief Technology and Digital Innovation

100 shows to Copenhagen and Aarhus.

Officer Francesca Bria, and an interactive

The seventh edition of Musikfilm

Venues include Huset KBH, Bremen, and

session about how Augmented

Festivalen is offering the broadest

Islandsbrygge Kulturhus. Go and have a

Reality can be used to educate about

program in the festival’s history.

laugh!

Sustainability. Find the full programme

Celebrate the 50th birthday of legendary

and tickets on the festival website.

Woodstock Festival by watching the

SEPT 1

documentary or watch the cult film

CC FINISSAGE / ART WALK AND

SEPT 6-22

Quadrophenia, there will be more than 30

BUBBLES AT COPENHAGEN

GOLDEN DAYS FESTIVAL: 1989

films to chose from so get your groove

CONTEMPORARY

on. Golden Days celebrates the 30th year

Wave goodbye to the exhibitions “I

after the fall of the Berlin Wall with a

SEPT 14

Have Grown Taller from Standing with

historico-cultural festival dedicated to

KHALID – FREE SPIRIT AT THE

Trees” by Claudia Comte and “LENGUA

the year 1989. The fall of the Berlin Wall

ROYAL ARENA

LLORONA” by Donna Huanca and join for

marked a turning point in world history

an Art Walk with free beverages. The art

and in more than 150 formats including

Khalid is coming to Copenhagen. Join in

educators lead walks at 3 pm, 4 pm, and

talks, concerts, and exhibitions, Golden

the Royal Arena and dive into his musical

5 pm. Access to the exhibitions costs the

Days explores what we can learn from

world, somewhere between pop, R&B,

same as regular entrance, the Art Walks

these times.

and electro. From 8 pm.

are free. From 3 – 6 pm. SEPT 7

SEPT 15

SEPT 4

GUIDED TOUR IN ENGLISH AT THE

COPENHAGEN HALF MARATHON

GULDALDERSALON MED

ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

SOLVANG & PASS AT STATENS MUSEUM FOR KUNST

Flat, fast, and scenic, the CPH Half Get inspired by the clean lines of the

course features some of the biggest

opera’s beautiful lobby, Olafur Eliasson’s

highlights of Copenhagen. Put your

What can the boom of the Golden

light sculptures, and the views of

running shoes on or just come and

Age in art, spiritual life, education, and

Copenhagen Harbour. Come onto the

support the athletes. From 11.15 am – 4

democracy teach us today? Join the

stage and behind the scenes in this

pm.

salon and jointly explore this inspiring

guided tour in English. Tickets are 120

time in Danish history through stories and

DKK and can be bought via the website of

SEPT 15

conversations. The event is included in

The Royal Danish Theatre. The tour starts

CARFREE SUNDAY AT

the regular entrance ticket and goes from

at 12 noon.

NØRREBROGADE

SEPT 7

Cars are banned from Nørrebrogade on

HURLING TOURNAMENT

this Sunday and instead the street is filled

5:30 – 7:30 pm. SEPT 5-7 TECHFESTIVAL

with all kinds of activities for adults and Ever heard of hurling? The sport has been

kids alike. From 2 – 6 pm.

This year’s Techfestival deals with the

a big deal in Ireland for years, and if you’re

hot topics of biohacking, data, and

interested in getting a look at this fast-

SEPT 20-21

human rights. In times in which half of

paced, highly-skilled sport (imagine ice

KERN1 VINTAGE CHANEL JACKET

the world is online and eight out of ten of

hockey meets lacrosse, but with a rugby

POP-UP AT THE AUDO

the world’s biggest companies are tech

attitude), then come watch some of the

companies, tech shapes our everyday

games! The tournament takes place

Well we can’t think of a more elegant

lives and relationships. Thus, Techfestival

from 10 am – 6 pm at Kløvermarkens

pop-up than this one! Kern1 sells pre-

brings together experts and thinkers from

Idrætsanlæg. Entry is free.

owned Chanel jackets from a range of

Denmark and abroad in order to explore

eras and styles, and if you’ve ever wanted

how tech can contribute to a better

to own one of these beautiful pieces then 17


now is the time! Go see them, try them

OCT 3

OCT 5

on, and find the one that’s right for you.

SEASON OPENING OF THE

PLANKS GRASSROOTS TOUR 2019

The incredible setting of the new hotel/

CARIBBEAN HOUSEWIFE

AT COPENHILL

feel all the more refined. Friday’s pop-up

Soup bar The Caribbean Housewife

The Planks Grassroots Tour is now in its

is from 11 am – 6 pm, while Saturday’s

opens for the season: hurray! Get

third year and this time it’s headed to

goes from 11 am – 2 pm.

yourself the tastiest soup and other cosy

the brand new dry slope in Copenhagen.

cafe/workspace The Audo will make it

dishes around, including her beloved

Expect an awesome park, skiers, bags of

SEPT 29

lasagna. There are lots of vegetarian and

prizes, and good tunes in your ears. It’s

CITYRINGEN (M3) OPENING

vegan options. The opening event, from 4

the perfect way to get stoked for winter

CEREMONY

– 7 pm, includes free soup for the first 25

and everyone’s invited, so make sure

guests, music by WILD DAVE, and even a

you kick off the season with a bang! The

few tastings. Go slurp it up!

event is open to anyone and all you need

The time has come, Cityringen M3 finally opens its doors to the metro! 17 new

is a valid lift ticket for the slope to enter.

stations will help to bring the different

OCT 3

parts of Copenhagen and Frederiksberg

DANSKERTESTEN – THE BIG DANE-

tighter together. To celebrate, there will

OFF AT STUDENTERHUSET

From 12 noon – 5 pm. OCT 7 QUIZ NIGHT AT STUDENTERHUSET

be live music and an opening ceremony on Rådhuspladsen from 1 – 4 pm and a

Compete in disciplines such as “Eating

program for families on Solbjerg Plads in

Danish candy“, “Weird idioms from hell“,

Put together your dream team, participate

Frederiksberg from 12.30 noon – 4 pm.

and “Build an open sandwich“. You can

in a quiz and win at Studenterhuset’s

join individually or as teams, just register

Original Quiz with current affairs

via the link. From 8-10 pm.

questions and Danish hygge. It’s 20 DKK

OCT 3-6

per person and there can be two to four

FRISTILLET AT POP-UP

OCT 4-6

COPENHAGEN

AMAGER BAKKE – OPENING OF COPENHILL

people in each team. From 7-9 pm. OCT 9 URBAN RIGGER – THE FUTURE IS

Susanne, Birgitte, and Grethe were

FLOATING

colleagues for many years working for the

CopenHill offers skiing, the world’s tallest

same newspaper until the day they were

climbing wall (spring 2020), steep trail

laid off. In the aftermath, they focused on

running, hiking and outdoor fitness in

The challenges of urbanization make it

creating art and “Fritstillet“ is their first

unique surroundings. Join the opening

more important than ever to build smart.

show together. Susanne Bondrop paints

celebration from 5 pm. Find the full

According to the team behind Urban

in an expressive naturalism, with the

program on the website.

Rigger, finding a sustainable answer

main source of inspiration being Danish

means exploring the undiscovered

landscapes. Birgitte Elkær expresses

OCT 4-6

resources in our cities. Urban Rigger

herself through non-figurative, naïve,

DESIGNER FORUM

floating homes can be placed anywhere

and happy image collages with material

with water access. By harnessing energy

structure, and Grethe Nielsen has most

Want to save up to 80% off some of

from the surrounding water through

recently focused on the development of

your favorite brands, including Han

specialized heat pumps and from the sun

the gender political cartoon “Den nøgne

Kjøbenhavn, Samsøe Samsøe, SAND,

through solar panels, they achieve a very

sandhed – ifølge Iris & Angela” (The

and more. There’s a VIP sale on Friday

low CO2 emission. Join a guided tour and

Naked Truth – According to Iris & Angela).

evening, then Forum is open from 10

learn more from 4-5.30 pm. Free tickets

Join the opening of the artistic fusion at

am – 5 pm on Saturday and 10 am – 4

are available via Eventbrite.

Pop-Up Copenhagen from 4 – 7 pm. The

pm on Sunday. VIP tickets are 195 and

exhibition will be on display until Sunday.

include early access, welcome drinks,

OCT 10

and a goodiebag for the first 500 people

TALK: “THE CIRCULAR CITY“ AT

to arrive. All tickets can be purchased

SPACE10

online, and are slightly more expensive at the door.

Join SPACE10, IKEA’s global research and design lab, and EFFEKT Architects for a


Denmark

talk and exhibition presenting their latest

OCT 22

NOV 1-3

project, The Urban Village. The talk will

BLANCO WHITE AT IDEAL BAR

MIX CPH

build, and share our future living spaces

London-based Josh Edwards started

Dating back to 1986, MIX CPH is

in order to improve our quality of life.

his musical project Blanco White in

Denmark’s oldest recurring and ever-

From cross-generational living to flatpack,

2014. Having studied guitar in Spain and

active film festival and one of the world’s

modular homes; from sharing energy,

the Andalusian instrument charango in

oldest LGBTQ+ film festivals. Run by

finance, mobility and food to efficiency,

Bolivia, he blends Latin-American and

volunteers, it shows an array of movies

community and affordability, SPACE10

Western influences. The resulting indie-

that bend gender and break sexual

and EFFEKT have developed a number of

folk is the perfect soundtrack for rainy

boundaries, affect the gender debate

ideas for creating better and more circular

autumn days. Doors open at 7 pm and

and reflect a diverse world. Find all the

solutions for our future cities. The talk is

tickets cost 135 DKK.

screenings and tickets on the website.

focus on their vision for how to design,

free, sign up will be possible via the Live Like Tomorrow website or Eventbrite.

On Saturday, 2nd November, the festival OCT 23-26

closes with two documentaries that

POST DESIGN FESTIVAL 2019

transport you to the spectacular world of

OCT 11 KULTURNATTEN 2019

Vogue as well as a party at Refshalevej In our increasingly image-based society,

185.

designers and illustrators are growing For more than 26 years, Culture Night

more responsible for shaping the rhetoric

NOV 1

has been one of Copenhagen’s most

of the visual future. Through talks and

J-DAG/J-DAY

well-attended cultural events. When the

workshops, the non-profit, openly critical

schools begin their autumn holiday the

and collaborative design festival POST

Hip hip hooray, julebryg is here! Today

association Kulturnatten creates a festive

challenges the place of graphic design,

is the day when Tuborg releases their

evening that celebrates Copenhagen’s

digital design and illustration practice in

limited edition Christmas brew. The day

cultural life. More than 250 museums,

society. Addressing issues such as the

is a party around the city, with people

theatres, libraries, churches, ministries

ethics of design, the politics of image

heading straight to their local bodega to

and parks throughout the city welcome

making and the unknowns of the creative

get a bottle when it’s officially available

the public during the city’s biggest annual

future, POST offers a unique opportunity

at 8:59 pm. The beer is around for ten

one-day event. Find the full program on

to explore, question and re-imagine

weeks only, but it’s still the fourth most

Kulturnatten’s website.

the purpose of the graphic arts. Find

popular beer in Denmark! Go enjoy this

the program and tickets on the festival

fruity, dark beer, which can be purchased

website.

in stores or most bodegaas around the

OCT 19 ORESUND CUP 2010 (FINAL &

city, while you can.

QUALIFICATION #2) AT BETA

OCT 31

BOULDERS

20 BRIDGE RUN THROUGH

NOV 2

COPENHAGEN

FREE PARKOUR CONDITIONING CLASS

The cross-Oresund rivalry between Sweden and Denmark is legendary.

Join Run Buddy for a 7km run through

Watch climbers battling each other across

Copenhagen. It’s actually possible to

Feeling sporty or just in need of a

two gyms when they compete not only

cross 20 bridges in Copenahgen in 7km!

workout before going all in on the

for themselves but also for their country

This run is open to expats, and begins

delicious Christmas food? Join this free

teams. Round #1 will take place in Malmö

outside The Standard. There will be a

Parkour Conditioning Class on Israels

Klättercentret, round #2 and the final at

couple of stops, and the group runs at a

Plads. With body weight exercises,

Beta Boulders in Copenhagen. Both gyms

moderate pace. Run Buddy Copenhagen

Marcus and Sander prepare you for the

throw an afterparty, so no matter where

is always free, and we always

parkour. Get insights into this interesting

you end up – celebrate with the athletes.

recommend Ole’s company!

sport or just join for the sake of physical

From 10 am – 10 pm. Find tickets via the

fitness. From 9-10.30 am.

website.

19


NOV 5

NOV 16-17

out but stay tuned for the chance of

FREE DANISH AT CAFÉ CADEAU

JULEMARKED PÅ FREDERIKSBERG

spots opening up. If not, keep an eye out for other options to indulge in this

Every Tuesday and Wednesday, Café

It’s that time of the year again. Get your

Danish tradition or simply organize your

Cadeau offers a free Danish language

Christmas vibes going and take a stroll

own Julefrokost – an introduction to the

event. Learn from the Danish volunteers

over the market in Haveselskabets have.

concept and recipes can be found here.

and don’t forget to order some drinks or

There will be regional delicacies, arts,

food to support this non-profit initiative.

crafts and Christmas decoration for sale

From 7-9 pm.

and Haveselskabets café is offering its famous kryddervin, along with coffee and

Dive into Irish culture at the annual

cocoa. From 11 am – 5 pm.

Copenhagen Irish Festival. There will be theatre performances, concerts, dance

NOV 17

and jam session. Find the full program on

VINTAGE SALON AT STORE

the festival website.

KANNIKESTRÆDE 19

NOV 9 LOPPEMARKED I NØRREBROHALLEN Are you looking for some additions to your home or wardrobe or maybe even the first Christmas presents? Go on treasure hunt at this indoor flea market in

KUNSTHÅNDVÆRKERMARKED I ABSALON Stock up on ceramics, jewelry, prints and so much more when Absalon turns into a creative heaven. From 10 am – 3 pm you can browse the stalls of a broad range of designers and artists. If you get hungry, there will be coffee and freshly baked buns. Entry is free. NOV 15 COPEN OPEN POETRY SLAM Come and join this open poetry slam at Stardust. From 7.15 pm, tickets can be purchased at the door.

MARKET Ready for some christmas shopping (for yourself or your loved ones)? Drop by the Arhoj studio on Islands Brygge, dig through all the odd, awkward, lucky mistakes, watch the production team in

1920’s festsal of Store Kannikestræde 19

action, and enjoy a hot beverage from Elis

from 11 am – 5 pm. Tickets cost 40 DKK

Street Coffee. From 9 am – 5 pm.

and can be bought with cash or mobile pay at the entry. NOV 19-24 NORDIC ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL AT CINEMATEKET This festival was first held in 1996 and aims at presenting the most inspiring

NOV 9

STUDIO ARHOJ CHRISTMAS

Browse vintage pieces in the beautiful

Nørrebrohallen from 10 am – 3 pm. Entry is free.

NOV 30

adventure and outdoors films to the local audience, at helping develop the production of adventure films as well as at motivating people to use film media when going outdoors. The best films will be rewarded in ten categories ranging from “Best Film Of The Year” to the more niche “Best Mountain Culture Film.” NOV 29 JULEFROKOST AT ABSALON Absalon is kicking off Julefrokost season. Eat, drink, and dance in the sign of christmas every Friday and Saturday until 21st December from 5 pm. Tickets cost 250 DKK and are available via Billetto. Due to high demand, all dates are sold


CHASING PERFECTION

ARKK COPENHAGEN


PASTRIES IN COPENHAGEN every Danish pastry you need to try in Copenhagen

When you think of Danish pastry, what

In short, weinerbrød refers to a category

comes to mind? Maybe some cream

of pastry rather than a single pastry,

cheese, cherry filling, and a flaky dough?

although occasionally individual pastries are referred to simply as weinerbrød.

“Tourists will come in and ask for the

Today, wienerbrød of all kinds are a

one with cheese, or a salty and savory

must-try when visiting Copenhagen. The

pastry,” says Lars Konstantin Hansen,

bakeries are packed with sweet smelling

manager of Lagkagehuset’s iconic

(and tasting) choices.

Christianshavns Torv bakery. “[But] we don’t have these in Denmark.” Our

How do you know which ones to try?

beloved cherry Danishes aren’t quite the

We’ve done the tasting for you in this

same as what the Danes are eating at

definitive guide to Danish pastries.

home. All these gorgeous delicacies are from In Denmark, wienerbrød or ‘Vienna

Lagkagehuset’s Christianshavns Torv

bread’ is the umbrella term for a range

bakery. This location bakes everything

of flaky, sweet pastries. They’re named

daily on site (and yes, the smell is divine).

after the Austrian bakers who brought

So if you’re into fresh pastries, “come in

the technique of making laminated dough

very early [around 6:00am], that’s when

(think croissants) to Copenhagen.

they come right out of the oven.” Thanks for the tip, Lars!

The Viennese pâtissiers traveled to Denmark in the mid-1800s after Danish

For more information and recipes for each

bakers went on strike. (Or so the story

of these delicious pastries, check out our

goes.) Little did they know at the time,

website.

that this cross-cultural exchange would lead to international culinary acclaim.


R H U B A R B

H O R N

S OF T

+

DOUGHY

F L A K ED A L M O N D S

+

S U GA R C RY S TA LS

RHUBAR D

+

MARZ IPA N F IL L ING

1 2

cm

5

c m


S EE D

S N A P P E R S

F L AK Y

+

DE L ICAT E

RE MONCE

P O P P Y, SESAM E

F IL L ING

+

LI NSEEDS

2 4

cm

3

c m


R A S P B E R RY

S L I C E S

DOUGHY BRE AD

SU G A R C RY STA LS

RAS P BE R RY F IL L ING

1 0

cm

3

c m


B UT T E R

PA S T RY

F L AK Y DOUGH

S U G A R G L A Z E

CUS TARD CRE ME F IL L ING

1 2

cm

4

cm


B O S S

S N A I L

F L AK Y

BUT

S T URDY

BR EA D

C H O C O LATE F I LLI N G

S HORT BR EA D -L IK E BOT T OM

1 1

cm

4

c m


C I N A M M O N

S T I C K

S UGAR GL AZ E

D O U G H Y B R EA D

CINAMMON RE MONCE F IL L ING

1 2

cm

3

c m


C IN A M M O N

S N A I L

F L AK Y

SU G A R G LA ZE

GOOEY CI N AMMON CO R E

1 2

cm

3

c m


T E A

P O P P Y

S E E D

B U N S

F L AK Y

+

DE L ICAT E

P O PPY S EED S

RE MONCE F IL L ING

1 2

cm

4

c m


R U M

B A L L S

DE NS E CAK E Y

C H O CO LATE SPR I NKLES

RUM INF US E D

6

cm

5

cm

+


Denmark

MUST VISIT: THE BLACK DIAMOND

don’t leave Copenhagen without visiting this iconic site

One of Copenhagen’s architectural icons,

A 1968 extension which tacked on a

BLACK DIAMOND

this complex exemplifies the evolution of

Functionalist wing on one side, was

Søren Kierkegaards Plads 1

Scandinavian libraries.

generally unloved.

1221 København K

Public libraries in Scandinavia are well-

Much beloved, on the other hand, is the

THE DANISH JEWISH MUSEUM

designed and intended to strengthen

Black Diamond (Den Sorte Diamant), a

Proviantpassagen 6

the social fabric, reflecting the region’s

major expansion which opened in 1999

1218 København K

history and values. The Scandinavian

and is named for its dark granite and

nations started developing their first

glass facade. While the 1906 building

ROYAL LIBRARY (1906 BUILDING)

purpose-built libraries around 1900 and

was preserved, the 1968 addition was

Christians Brygge 8

as the welfare state developed from

reclad to fit with the new facade.

1219 Københacn K

the 1930s onward, they took on added importance as democratic institutions.

Functionally, the Black Diamond integrates with Holm’s building, linking

After the WWII, Scandinavian libraries

to it with glass bridges above a city

broadened their role, also offering cultural

street. Designed by Schmidt Hammer

space and hosting community activities.

Lassen architects, the seven-storey

More recently, libraries have taken on

building extends the library to the

the added role as catalysts for urban

waterfront and its soaring atrium provides

revitalization.

stunning harbor views. It is beautiful and welcoming (and, incidentally, was

The Royal Library dates from 1906, an

Scandinavia Standard’s first home).

upgrade from a nearby 1673 building (now the National Archives). Designed

Besides new library space, The Black

by Professor Hans J. Holm, it features

Diamond also includes an auditorium,

an eclectic mix of historical precedents.

photography museum, and eateries.

Reflecting its times, the Royal Library

Adding to this cultural milieu is the Danish

was built as a “temple of knowledge”

Jewish Museum designed by Daniel

with brick facade, towers, clerestory

Liebeskind, located in the Galley House.

windows, ornate details, and chandeliers.

33


BEST COFFEE IN COPENHAGEN THE COFFEE COLLECTIVE A Copenhagen favorite, The Coffee Collective roasts their own beans to perfection. They’re serious about coffee and about trade ethics – they buy direct from farms around the world and pay a fair price for these smaller batches. At their Godthåbsvej location, you can have an excellent breakfast, tour the roastery and do a “cupping,” which is a fancy way of saying “coffee tasting.”

RISTERIET Risteriet roasts their own beans. They’re known around town for their uncompromising taste and laid back vibes. The Studiestræde location is more of a takeaway joint, while the Halmtorvet location invites you to kick back and enjoy your cup.

COPENHAGEN COFFEE LAB When you’re on Chef Rene Redzepi’s list of favorite places in Copenhagen, you know you’re doing something right (especially when he calls you “full of nerds”). “Lab” is a fairly good descriptor for this place – there’s definitely a vibe of experimentation. Located in the cellar level of cobbled side street, Copenhagen Coffee Lab is a great choice for your morning or afternoon coffee fix when you also want the time to sit and truly enjoy.


Denmark

CAFE BEVAR’S Café Bevar’s is a relaxing retreat in which to hide away during a busy afternoon in Copenhagen. With a wide selection of drinks, good music, retro-chic furniture and comfortable armchairs, Bevar’s can charm anyone into spending a few hours in its interior. During the daytime, you will often find people studying or working on laptops as Bevar’s invites people to work outside the office. There is a meeting room in the back of the cafe to cater to larger work parties.

CAFE DET VIDE HUS So small that if you were passing on the street you might miss it. Det Vide Hus is a Copenhagen favorite for their in-the-know location, their great food including acai bowls, breakfast dishes and pastries and delicious coffee (they even have a collaboration roast with The Coffee Collective). It gets crowded on weekends, so get there early.

FORLOREN ESPRESSO A tiny little gem in the centre of the city, Forloren is the kind of place you usually find by accident. A sign at the counter warns that they make their coffee right, not fast, so if you’re in a hurry definitely ask about wait times. When you’re staying in, you’re treated to a little explanation of the coffee you’re drinking. FYI: the cosy corner in the back of the shop is a no-laptop, no-phone zone. It is for enjoying coffee only (oh the horror, the horror of it all)!

PROLOG COFFEE BAR What looks like a small, unassuming but hip coffee bar in the meatpacking district is actually a special gem. The location used to be a bookshop, and owners Jonas and Sebastian have continued to display and sell a few magazines and other printed works. But it’s the coffee (duh, this is an article about coffee) that’ll keep you coming back. Prolog is a relatively small operation but their roast their own beans, and the roasts are excellent.

35


S WE


DEN


Sweden

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW all the essential information for your trip to Sweden

PASSPORT VALIDITY

L A N G UAG E

of stay.

won’t get as good of a rate as you would from an ATM. Be sure to call your banks

At least six months beyond the period The official language of Sweden is

ahead of time to let them know you’ll be

Swedish, but they also speak English very

using your cards in Sweden!

BLANK PASSPORT PAGES

well. This is one reason I recommend

Space for entry and exit stamps

Sweden for first time international

W E AT H E R

travelers who want to visit a non-EnglishTOURIST VISA REQUIRED

speaking country but be able to get by

51-63°F in October with an average of a

Not required for stays under 90 days

with only English.

28% chance of precipitation.

VACCINATIONS

CURRENCY

ELECTRICAL OUTLETS

None In Sweden, they tend to prefer credit

Plugs in Sweden are the same as the rest

CURRENCY RESTRICTIONS

cards as payment. To avoid any issues,

of Europe. You will need an adapter for

FOR ENTRY

make sure you have a PIN for your credit

charging any electronics. Your laptop or

10,000 Euros (or equivalent)

card or debit card, and try to bring cards

phone will have a converter built in, so

that have the chip in them. When dealing

you just need the adapter part.

CURRENCY RESTRICTIONS

with cash in Sweden, the currency is the

FOR EXIT

Krona, SEK or Kr. In 2018, the Swedish

10,000 Euros (or equivalent)

exchange rate is about 9 Kr per US Dollar.

TRANSPORTATION Sweden has a very good public

Swedish currency comes in bills and

transportation system. Beware that

coins. There are 1000Kr bills, but beware

the trains often run late, and it can be

of those, and ask for two 500Kr instead

expensive. Sometimes getting public

as it will be hard to spend. The other bills

transportation tickets in Sweden can be

are 500Kr, 100Kr, 50Kr and 20Kr. Coins

difficult. It can be frustrating getting hold

come in 10Kr, 5k, 1Kr and .50 Kr.

of a the card you need to load up for access to trains and buses.

ATM’s are found throughout the cities, and this is the best exchange rate for withdrawing Swedish currency. There are also exchange houses around, but you 39


TRANSPORTATION GUIDE how to use public transportation in Stockholm

TRAIN

Stockholm is a visitor’s dream when it

and there are through-the-night services

comes to public transportation. The city’s

on Fridays and Saturdays—very handy in a

subway network is intuitive and efficient

city where taxis are expensive. Stations in

You can travel surprisingly far outside the

and runs through the night on weekends.

the city centre are typically well-marked at

city borders on a single SL ticket, making

Busses, trams, commuter trains and

ground level with large ‘T’ signs. There’s

Stockholm’s aboveground train network

ferries also connect the capital’s 14

wheelchair and stroller access at every

a top choice for both commuters and

islands—and all their top attractions.

station, although not necessarily at each

weekend day-trippers. Two popular tourist

Almost all these options are operated

exit. Tickets should be bought in advance

spots are the ports of Nynästamn and

by the same company, Storstockholms

from subway stations or Pressbyrån and

Saltsjöbaden. Sigtuna, the oldest town in

Lokaltrafik (SL), so you can easily switch

7-11 convenience stores.

Sweden, can also be reached via an

between different transport modes.

SL train to Märsta, followed by a short BUS

bus ride.

75-minute journey. But it’s usually better

The bus network in Stockholm is trickier

However, if you’re travelling to Uppsala

value to buy a plastic SL card for 20 SEK

to navigate than the subway, and probably

from Stockholm you’ll need to buy a

and top up with credit, or buy a 24 hour,

isn’t worth it if you’re only visiting for a

separate UL ticket or, if you’ve already

72 hour or weekly pass if you’re planning

short period of time or are planning to do

bought an all-inclusive SL ticket for 24

frequent trips. Whether you’re finding

most of your travelling by day. However,

hours or more, you can buy an SL ticket

your way to your hotel or just want to get

busses are a great option if you need to

extension. It’s easiest to arrange the latter

lost in the city—and then find a great bar

travel after 1am during the week, when

from an SL counter; ticket machines are

or restaurant along the way—we’ve got

the subway is closed.

available but can be confusing for first-

Paper or mobile tickets cost 44 SEK for a

you covered.

time visitors. Services are well-heated and are typically

SUBWAY

calm and safe. The key inner-city

TRAM

night route is Line 4 (which turns into Stockholm’s extensive underground

Nightbus 94) between Radiohuset and

Trams serve Djurgården island, where

network, known as the tunnelbana, is

Gullmarsplan. SL cards are accepted on all

many of Stockholm’s most popular

made up of three colour-coded lines

busses. If you don’t have a ticket, you can

museums are based. You can pick up

(green, red and blue), which split into

pay using the SL app; it costs 44 SEK for

the Line 7 service from two adjacent

different branches on the outskirts of

a 75-minute journey (compared to 31 SEK

stops in the city centre—Hamngatan

the capital. Subway trains typically run

with an SL card).

or Nybrokajan. Both stops are within

between 5am and 1am during the week

walking distance from central station and


Sweden

Östermalmstorg and Kungsträdgården

must be bought in advance. There are

subway stops. Tram line 22 serves various

also several private companies running

city suburbs. Valid SL cards or mobile

boats from the city centre to the

tickets must be bought in advance from

Stockholm archipelago. Waxholmsbolaget

subway stations or convenience stores

and Stromma are the largest.

and shown on board. BIKE FERRY When the weather is nice, try to take Taking the ferry rarely saves time in

advantage of the many bike paths and

Stockholm, but it offers a fun and scenic

lanes that snake through the city. Rental

way to get around, especially during

companies are scattered throughout, with

good weather. The Djurgården ferry

most bikes costing 250 kroner (about $30)

connects Slussen (follow signs from

a day.

the Södermalmstorg subway exit) to Djurgården island, often stopping off at

One of the more popular neighborhoods

Skeppsholmen island en route (check

to explore via bike is Djurgården, which is

with staff before you board).

conveniently home to some of the city’s most popular activities. Check the Visit

The Sjövägen 80 boat line connects

Stockholm website to learn more about

central Nybroplan (close to

your biking options in the city.

Kungsträdgården subway stop) and Frihamnen port, also stopping off at Djurgården island along the way. SL tickets are valid for both services but

41


THIS FALL IN STOCKHOLM


Sweden

SEPT 1-15

for 485 SEK. Both packages come with

English by TNT Theatre Britain. The play

WALL STREET NACKA

delicious unlimited food from the buffet.

is a comedy, with cases of mistaken

Reserve your spot soon, because tickets

identity, love scenes, and some magical

will go quickly!

happenings. Tickets are 300 SEK for

Over the course of two weeks, this

adults, 150 SEK for students. It is an

international mural festival will turn a public space into an outdoor gallery.

SEPT 6-7

Artists from all over the world have been

STHLM STREET FOOD AND

invited to participate, and everyone is

SWEDISH CHAMPIONSHIP IN

SEPT 11

welcome to view and celebrate the street

KUNGSTRÄDGÅRDEN

KHALID AT HOVET

inauguration event on Sunday 1st, and

Taste street food from all over the

Khalid is on tour with his second album,

a closing event on Sunday 15th; more

world, while enjoying performances,

“Free Spirit.” This young American

information about these events will be

competitions and the work of graffiti

singer-songwriter began his career fresh

released soon on the Wall Street Nacka

artists. In addition to food truck

out of high school, and has now become

website.

competitions, this year there will be a

one of the world’s most streamed artists.

Sweet Food competition (yum!). The

He’ll be supported by Mabel and Raye for

festival is open to everyone.

this concert. Tickets range from 445 to

open-air theater, so bring a sweater!

art that will be created. There will be an

SEPT 2 CINDERELLA AT THE OPERA HOUSE

545 SEK. SEPT 7-8

The story of Cinderella is a classic tale,

VIKING MARKET AT GUNNES

SEPT 12-13

and a beloved opera. This performance

GÅRD

GATHER FESTIVAL

if the languages are foreign to you, come

At the 15th annual Viking market, there

The Gather Festival is a unique festival,

and be swept away by the performance

will be many fun things to do, for both

as it combines music, art, performances,

of this familiar story. Tickets start at 110

children and adults. There will be a

labs to learn skills, and talks. The

SEK. If you miss the first night, don’t

market, craft courses, storytelling,

speakers and artists are international.

worry, you can also catch it on the 4th,

archery, battle shows and lectures.

The whole event revolves around

10th, 13th, 21st, and 25th.

Entrance to the market is free, but

collaboration. The festival will be hosted

remember to bring cash, as not all of the

in multiple locations, from small venues to

market vendors will have Swish.

larger clubs. All tickets grant access to the

will be in Italian with Swedish text. Even

SEPT 4 THE MEDIEVAL STOCKHOLM TOUR

whole event; prices increase as the event SEPT 8

Walk the cobblestones of Gamla Stan,

approaches.

2 KM FLEA MARKET IN ASPUDDEN SEPT 20-21

and learn of life in medieval Stockholm.

NÄSS AT DANSENS HUS

You’ll hear of everyday life, festivities,

This is one of the more popular flea

and even the merciless punishments of

markets in Stockholm. Residents of the

the times. The tour ends with a trip to

area are able to sell their second hand

The dance company, Cie Massala,

Blackfriars’ cellar. Tickets for the tour,

clothing, books, toys, and more. On top

combines forms from Moroccan folk

arranged with the Medieval Museum, are

of the fantastic browsing to be done,

dance, hip-hop, contemporary dance, and

120 SEK.

there will be performances. If you are

circus for this performance. Ticket prices

interested in performing (maybe you’re

for Näss range from 97 to 345 SEK.

SEPT 4

part of a choir or a band!), get in touch

ITALIAN WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL

with the organizers via the Facebook

SEPT 28-29

event page.

AUTUMN FAIR AT SKANSEN

is having a wine tasting event with 50

SEPT 9

This event is an annual fixture at Skansen.

different wines to choose from, and a

A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM

The market includes textiles, toys,

buffet of Italian food made by Eataly’s

AT KUNGLIGA DJURGARDEN

vegetables, jams, bread, candy and more.

In celebration of a great summer, Eataly

In addition to the market, you’ll hear

chefs. You can choose between two wine tasting packages, one with 5 wines

William Shakespeare’s play A Midsummer

traditional music, see dancing, and be

for 285 SEK, the second with 12 wines

Night’s Dream will be performed in

able to participate in activities like tug of 43


war. Admission for children is 60 SEK, and

OCT 3-6

OCT 10-13

195 SEK for adults.

CHEW AT RINGEN CENTRUM

THE BAKING AND

Chew is a food festival that brings you

CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL AT

SEPT 28

a variety of opportunities, including

STOCKHOLMSMÄSSAN

1000 METERS OF ARTS AND

food and beer tastings, workshops, and

CRAFTS IN HUDDINGE

games. The events have different price

The tastiest festival around! Pastry chefs

listings, so be sure to look at the website

and chocolate lovers, Magnus Johansson

This is Stockholm’s longest arts and crafts

and book your favorite tastings online.

and Tony Olsson, run this festival

fair, stretching 1000 meters. Amateurs

Fingers crossed that we will see you at

together for those who are like-minded

and professionals alike will be selling their

the Chef’s Table!

and appreciate the sweet things in life.

work. Have a look at the crafts this year,

You can take a class about chocolate and

and maybe you’ll join the exhibitors next

OCT 4-6

health, or a course on creating the perfect

year! In addition to shopping the hand-

OPEN HOUSE STOCKHOLM

mousse. Onsite tickets are 190 SEK

made crafts, there will be activities for

for one day, and 260 SEK for two days.

the whole family. The full program will be

Open House returns to Stockholm for

Purchase your tickets online beforehand

released soon on their website. Entrance

the third year. Take a look at some of

for a discounted price.

is free.

the city’s most interesting buildings through free guided tours. Some of these

OCT 11-20

OCT 2

buildings are not available to the public

STOCKHOLM JAZZ FESTIVAL

STOCKHOLM IMPROV COMEDY

throughout the year and are well worth

CLUB AT THE LIFFEY

seeing, whether you’re into architecture,

This year’s jazz festival will have

history, or interior design (or, like us,

approximately 160 concerts around the

you’re just kinda nosy).

city. Tickets are sold separately for each

Every Wednesday night starting on the 2nd, you can celebrate getting over the

concert. Tove and Ingvar Jensen are the

week’s hump with a little comedy. Watch

OCT 6

owners of the Stockholm Jazz Festival,

The Splash perform a fast-paced comedy

VINOKILO AT DOWNTOWN

and they develop the festival throughout

show made up on the fly! Tickets for

CAMPER BY SCANDIC

the year to create an incredible

the shows can be bought in advance or

experience for the attendees. This festival

at the door, for 80 SEK. Who wouldn’t

Shop vintage clothes at this pay-by-

is one of Stockholm’s largest events, and

appreciate a midweek laugh? Other dates

the-kilo event. There will be a variety

it continues to grow each year.

this month are the 9th, 16th, 23rd, and

of sizes and styles of clothes, as well

30th.

as accessories. Get your ticket online

OCT 12

for free, or pay a small entrance fee at

ICE CREAM BRUNCH AT

OCT 3-6

the door. This sale is coming to us from

LJUNGGREN

STOCKHOLM CRAFT WEEK

Germany; we are so excited to freshen

During Craft Week, galleries, studios,

our wardrobes with some classic vintage

Ben & Jerry’s ice cream and the Swedish

pieces!

NGO Nema Problema are bringing people

and museums around Stockholm and

together over ice cream to celebrate

Värmdö will host events, seminars, and

OCT 9-12

everything that we share in common as

exhibitions. Included in this field are

SÖDERTÄLJE INTERNATIONAL

members of humanity. In addition to ice

everyday objects, sculpture, installations,

FOOD FESTIVAL

cream, there will be music, and activities

and more. Are you interested in learning

that challenge your perspectives of what

about glass sculpting? What about seeing

Come and try out dishes from 15

acrobats perform? Many of the events are

countries! France, Thailand, Greece, Italy

free of charge. Some have limited number

and Mexico are some of the countries

OCT 18-20

of seats so peruse the program to ensure

whose food will be presented at this

HALLOWEEN AT GRÖNA LUND

you get to the events that excite you the

year’s food festival (previously known as

most!

the International Street Market). Tables

In celebration of Halloween, Gröna

will be set up in the square so that you

Lund will open during certain days this

can enjoy your meal.

autumn. If you miss it this time around,

you share in common with others.

you can also go from 25th October to 3rd


Sweden

November. All of the rides will be open;

NOV 1-7

will be awards and food! What costume

the park will be decorated for Halloween.

YOUNG AND BEAUTIFUL AT

will you wear?

Tickets are limited due to the construction

ÖSTERLÅNGGATAN 3 NOV 3

of the new roller coaster, so reserve your ticket early!

Alan Novak’s first solo exhibit is a focus

LIGHT FESTIVAL AT BRUNNSVIKEN

on portrait photography in the fashion OCT 23

industry. He has worked closely with

This family-friendly event includes flame

MICHAEL BUBLÉ AT ERICSSON

makeup artists and fashion designers to

shows, a lantern train for children, and

GLOBE

perfect his craft. Entrance to the exhibit

dance performances. The festival is large,

is free.

with events happening all over the Royal

Inspired by the music of artists such as

National City Park. Most restaurants and

Frank Sinatra and Tony Bennett, Canadian

NOV 2-3

cafes around will be open, along with the

singer-songwriter Michael Bublé gives us

ALL HALLOWS’ EVE IN

Carl Eldh’s Ateljemuseum and the Haga

pop songs as well as jazz in the old-school

KYRKOGÅRDSÖN

Park Museum.

This family-friendly event sounds so

NOV 9

fun! There will be face painting (will you

STOCKHOLM COFFEE FESTIVAL AT

OCT 26-27

be scary or sweet?), a quiz, a lottery,

A-HOUSE

HARMONI-EXPO AT SOLNAHALLEN

pumpkin carving, and a buffet. If you want

style. Tickets for his show range from 650 SEK to 1450 SEK.

to carve a pumpkin, but will not be able

It is commonly known that Swedes

The Harmoni-Expo fair is bursting with

to get one in time, you can contact the

consume a large amount of coffee every

possibilities. This year, the fair will have

event hosts and they will arrange to have

year (we know it’s true!). This event gives

300 exhibitors, over 100 workshops and

one for you. The buffet costs 180 SEK for

you a chance to meet with fellow coffee

presentations, hands-on treatments, and

“Big Monsters” and 80 SEK for “Small

lovers, to try some new coffee tech, and

products available for purchase, such as

Monsters.”

meet Swedish Roasters. Entrance to the

jewelry, crystals, and self-development

event is free.

books. We can’t wait to have our auras

NOV 2-3

photographed! Tickets for the show are

STOCKHOLM DANCE FILM

NOV 16

140 SEK for one day and 200 SEK for two

FESTIVAL AT DANSENS HUS

LIGHTING CEREMONY IN KUNGSTRÄDGÅRDEN

days. In the fifth installment of this festival, we OCT 30

look at how dance is present in our lives

Saturday evening, attend the warm

WOODSTOCK 50 YEARS AT CIRKUS

and what meaning it has, via a series

welcoming of Christmas with the lighting

of films. In addition to film viewings,

ceremony. Beginning in Kungsträdgården,

To celebrate the iconic rock festival,

this festival will have workshops related

you can go on a guided walk through

Woodstock, eight Swedish artists will

to film and dance, and conversations

the city, seeing the many decorations

perform their own version of their favorite

with both local and international artists.

in over 40 streets, squares and places

songs from Woodstock. This event is

Festival passes are 265 SEK, or 80 SEK

in Stockholm. Decorations include

meant to remind us of the feeling and the

for individual events.

Christmas lights, moose, deer, angels

energy of the original Woodstock. Tickets range from 595 to 1155 SEK. NOV 1-3

and more. These light walks will happen NOV 2

every weekend evening until the end of

SHOCKHOLM HALLOWEEN

December.

PARADE IN KUNGSTRÄDGÅRDEN

LEGO WORLD AT KISTAMÄSSAN

NOV 21 The parade will begin in Kungsträdgården,

STOCKHOLM BLABLA LANGUAGE

Whether you are going with children or

after opening ceremonies, performances,

EXCHANGE

as a group of adult friends, LEGO World

and competitions. You will get to walk

is bound to be fun, as you release your

through Gamla Stan, enjoying live

Whether you are hoping to improve your

inner creative child! What will you build?

performances along the route, and finish

Swedish, or practice your skills in another

Tickets are 219 SEK.

in Kungsträdgården again, where there

language, this event is about language learning in a relaxed and friendly way. 45


will find topic suggestions to help you

and environmental issues. While you

start practicing your language with your

find Christmas presents for your loved

new friends.

ones, you can also learn how to become involved with various issues and how you

NOV 22-24 CHRISTMAS DINNER AT HASSELBACKEN Beginning at the end of November, you can enjoy a traditional Christmas dinner in buffet style at Hasselbacken. You can choose between lunch (545 SEK), a late lunch (795 SEK) or dinner (795 SEK). The price includes mulled wine and gingerbread. If you book your table early, you may receive a 15% discount. NOV 22-24 GINGERBREAD HOUSE COMPETITION AT ARKDES This year’s theme for the beloved Gingerbread House Competition is “hot.” There are three competitor groups: children up to the age of 12; architects, designers, and professional bakers; everyone else. If you are planning to participate, Friday 22nd – Sunday 24th November are the dates to submit your creation. The exhibit will open Friday 29th November. Admission to the exhibit is free. NOV 28-30 CHRISTMAS MARKET AT THE ROYAL STABLES At this Christmas market, which features the work of some of Sweden’s finest craftsmen, you will also have the opportunity to view the King’s horses. In addition, there will be a spot to buy traditional Swedish Christmas foods. Entrance to this market is 100 SEK. NOV 30 SCHYSST JUL AT ABF-HUSET This Christmas market provides you with the opportunity to support organizations that help with human rights

can make a difference.


ARKET FUNC TIONAL WAR MTH


WHAT TO DO IN LUND, SWEDEN WHERE TO STAY Lund has an abundance of accommodation options, but best known is Grand Hotel. The imposing building located in the centre is, apart from a popular wedding and events venue, a luxury hotel. With a rich heritage dating back to 1899, Grand Hotel is worth a visit even if you’re planning to stay somewhere more affordable. If you want to live more like a “Lund local” an authentic Lund cottage or a light city apartment in the heart of Lund might be something for you!

WHERE TO GET COFFEE The coffee culture is thriving in Lund much thanks to its student population. The popular café Love Coffee has one location (soon to be two) in the town centre. With a courtyard and views across to the Cathedral, Love Coffee is a must-visit for coffee-lovers. Down the road, in an old timber framed cottage, you’ll find Coffee Break. Apart from the coffee, Coffee Break serves delicious cakes and sandwiches.

WHERE TO EAT Lund’s food scene is best described as heaven for vegetarians and vegans. From Ebbas Skafferi (Ebba’s Pantry) and TrueFood Lund to The Herbivore, the options are not only plentiful, but tasty too. If you’re looking for a more traditional sandwich spot, Inkognito has quality paninis for affordable prices. For those of you in the mood for beers and burgers (with meat or without) Tugg Burgers has an extensive selection, best enjoyed in their heated courtyard.


Sweden

WHERE TO DRINK Café Ariman is the soul of Lund. This unique café/pub is laid back, fun, and has a great range of beers available. Another popular pub in the center of the city is Inferno. Set in a timbre-framed cottage, it has a large heated outside space and an excellent drinks menu. If you’re on the look-out for a watering hole with tasty pub meals, The Bishops Arms (also a hotel) is the place to go.

WHERE TO SHOP The locals love “loppis shopping” (second-hand shopping) and the city is full of garage sales, pop-ups, and second-hand boutiques. Fyndkällaren Loppis has a large selection of furniture, homeware, and paintings. Check out their social media to see what they have happening at the moment. Erikshjälpen is another popular second-hand destination. They also sell furniture and homeware, but they have a big selection of clothes and accessories too.

WHAT TO SEE There’s always something to marvel over in Lund. Lund Cathedral is undoubtably the town’s main tourist attraction. The church’s distinct exterior has remained the same since it was renovated by architect Helgo Zettervall (who also designed the neighboring Universitetshuset) at the end of the 1800s. After visiting the cathedral, take a walk through the quiet, beautiful North Cemetery, which has an alley lined with trees that offers a charming vista.

WHERE TO GO Of course there’s the famous Lund University, with its grand buildings and stretches of perfect lawn. There’s always something happening on campus, but it’s also just a wonderful place to explore and take in the collegiate atmosphere. Lund also has a lovely selection of parks and green spaces, the most impressive being The Botanical Gardens and Stadsparken, each with their own café for fika.

49


SCANDI STAYS: WANÃ…S


Sweden

Located 115 miles from the city of Malmö

turn the former barn and stable structures

community. In fact, the farm is careful

in southern Sweden, Wanaås Hotel,

into a hotel and restaurant. “We were

not to grow everything that the restaurant

Restaurant, and Sculpture Park is an

feeling a little isolated,” explains owner

needs so that they are still able to source

impeccable parcel of land that offers the

and architect Kristina Wachtmeister, “and

a considerable amount from surrounding

chance to relax, recharge, and fill your

we thought, instead of always having to

farms, thereby supporting those farmers.

soul with modern art.

go out in the cities, why don’t we bring

From delicious seasonal food sourced

the people to us? Then they can share in

Even if you don’t plan to stay overnight

this incredible space too!”

at the hotel, lunch or dinner at Wanås

locally – much of it from the estate’s

Restaurant, accompanied by a walk

own organic farm – to stunning spaces

The hotel features 11 rooms, all of which

through the sculpture park, is a wonderful

designed to showcase modern art as

are designed with Scandinavian simplicity

way to spend a day.

well as vintage design, this is a unique

that draws on the bones of the building

place and is ideal for a day or weekend

itself. Exposed beams, textured white

Perhaps the biggest treat at Wanås is

trip. The hotel rooms are minimalist

walls, and deeply in-set windows feature

their incredible art collection. In addition

and comfortable, while the restaurant

throughout. The bedroom floors are made

to a gallery that has consistently rotating

serves delicious dishes made from local

with oak from Wanås and the bathrooms

exhibitions, there’s a large sculpture

ingredients.

feature locally-sourced limestone.

park integrated throughout 100 acres of verdant forest. The gallery showcases

The sculpture park is the perhaps the

Wanås Restaurant was built at the

most remarkable part of this wonderful

same time as the hotel’s structure, also

place; featuring modern art from

by Elisabeth Jennings. Check out the

important artists throughout the magical

inscription above the door; it holds her

Swedish forest, it is a place you’ll never

name and the year the barn was built.

both local and international artists.

forget. The restaurant is light-filled and The Wanås Hotel is housed in 18th

minimalist, with a slight rustic aesthetic

century stables built by Elisabeth

that feels homey and unpretentious. The

Jennings, a woman who bought the

meals are similar; beautifully-made and

entire estate and proceeded to modernise

plated, but also hearty.

it for family and commercial use. In 2017, the family that owns the estate, and has

Everything they serve is grown or raised

done so for eight generations, decided to

locally, either on the farm or within the 51


BRUNCH IN MALMÖ a guide to the best brunch in malmö, sweden

NOIR KAFFEKULTUR

MJ’S HOTEL

creamy smell of cheese, the faint crunch

Noir Kaffekultur is a green oasis tucked

This hotel, bar and restaurant has become

of freshly baked sourdough, and a freshly

in behind Lilla Torg with accommodating

a favorite brunch location among locals

squeezed juice on a tray ready to be

outside seating area, making it a perfect

and visitors alike. Their menu “Breakfast

devoured alongside a hot cup of coffee.

spot in which to enjoy the changing

Bombastic” – only available in the

After a week of touring the country, nothing is quite as appetizing as the

seasons. This small café is a charming

mornings – lets you enjoy a delicious

The vibrant city bursts with restaurants

family-run business offering customers

selection of freshly baked bread,

and cafés from all over the world; the

homemade bread, avocado dishes, and a

scrambled eggs, tasty cheeses and baked

offering is surprisingly large for its mere

range of delicious cakes and croissants.

beans in a buffet style setting. MJ’S can

300,000 inhabitants. Of course, it’s a

The staff is delightful and the pastries

get busy on the weekends, especially

quick 30 minutes between Copenhagen

are always top knotch. They frequently

as hotel guest often like to enjoy the

and Malmö, so even those from outside

refresh their menu so check their

breakfast menu too, so make sure you

the city can easily enjoy its many gems.

Instagram to stay up-to-date.

book a table to avoid a wait.


Sweden

SCANDWICH

ATRIUM KAFFEBAR

FAR I HATTEN

As suggested by the pun-tastic name,

On a quiet side street off of the busy

Far i Hatten is best known for its wood-

Scandwich is the place to go if you’re

Regementsgatan, you’ll find Atrium

fired pizzas and seasonal dishes, but it’s

looking to eat a sandwich like no other.

Kaffebar. It’s the ultimate hipster brunch

also worth checking out for the brunch

The bread creations bear some similarities

spot in Malmö, serving delicious and

menu. The restaurant/café is located

to the Danish “smørrebørd” (open face

flavorful dishes and cakes. The menu is

in the middle of Folkets Park in a cozy

sandwiches). Scandwich is fully focused

small but has everything you’re looking

cottage built in 1894 and surrounded

on quality and only has three items on

for in a weekend brunch; smashed

by a large garden. The brunch is served

its menu – a sandwich with meat, a

avocado on toast, egg dishes, muesli

between 11 am and 2 pm on Saturdays

vegetarian sandwich, and a vegan option.

bowls, and a range of colorful salads with

and consists of a mainly vegetarian

Don’t be turned off by that, though, their

refreshing vegetables. We recommend

buffet. As this is a very popular spot, we

three options are magnificent. Scandwich

the Eggs Benedict – poached eggs with

recommend booking for brunch (or any

has two locations, one in Malmö and one

a choice of either smoked salmon or ham

other meal).

in Stockholm, both of which are beloved

on freshly baked bread.

by locals.

53


Sweden

HALLOWEEN IN STOCKHOLM what to do in Stockholm on October 31

It’s that spooky time of year again!

event runs from 3.30pm to 6.30pm,

Though it’s still more of a big deal in the

meaning it’s a good option for families -

US, Halloween is quickly becoming a

just be sure to dress warmly!

favourite autumn holiday for Swedes who are keen to light up the dark evenings,

GHOST SHIP AT GRÖNA LUND Creepy festivities are making a return to the Gröna Lund amusement park this

SKANSEN’S SPOOKY ACTIVITIES

even if it is with a pumpkin or two.

year. From Oct 18th–20th, and again from Oct 25th–Nov 3rd, the theme park will

Everyone’s favourite open-air museum is

turn into a spooky graveyard-like affair,

More and more Stockholmers are getting

hosting a few spooky events as part of its

with pumpkins, witches and ghosts

onboard with the Halloween fun, with

autumn break programme.

stalking the grounds.

children’s parties taking place across the

Visit Skansen in the days before

Play it safe with the kids’ corner, home to

city. Here are a handful of ways to get

Halloween (26th–30th October) and

hay bales and ghost cars, or graduate to

your spook on in Stockholm this year.

you can take part in autumnal crafting

the Big Kid section to come face to face

sessions, eat fiendishly good food, or

with a spooky sect in the park’s latest

listed to weird and wild stories in spooky

scream attraction. Do you dare to enter?

pumpkin-themed festivities, parades and

HALLOWEEN PARADE

cottages. Tickets are available here. Scandinavia’s largest Halloween Parade is held this year on November 2. This

HALLOWEEN CRUISE

wild festival kicks off with opening ceremonies and costume competitions at

Back for the ninth year due to popular

Kungsträdgården, in the city centre.

demand, Halloweenkryssningen (the Halloween Cruise) is Sweden’s biggest

The parade then fires up, heading out

floating Halloween party. Hop aboard a

onto Gamla Stan’s cobblestone streets

Tallink & Elixe Cruise ship bound for Riga

(which can be spooky at the best of

for a Baltic cruise of ghostly proportions.

times!). It’ll continue down towards the docks at Skeppsbron, before returning

Rock out on the dance floor to live DJs,

back to Kungsträdgården for more scarily

put your costume skills to the test with

good entertainment.

onboard competitions, or just enjoy the enchanted company of ghouls, demons

Dress up in your finest witch or vampire

and vampires. This party cruise runs from

outfits and join the march. The whole

1st–3rd Nov, so grab your tickets quick! 55


OLE M ATHIESE N T HE A R T O F A T IMEL ES S T IMEPIECE


SPRE KE NHUS

S KI N C AR E YOU C AN B E LI E VE I N I N G RE D I E NTS YOU C A N PRO N OU N C E


NOR


W AY


How to travel in Helsinki What’s On in October Five Fun Day Trips Favorite Food Delivery


Norway

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW all the essential information to your trip to Norway

PA SSPOR T VAL I DI T Y

L A N G UAG E

W E AT H E R

Norwegian is spoken in Norway. It’s

If you are wondering what to wear in

similar to Swedish and Danish, but it’s still

Norway, be prepared for cool temps.

BL A N K PAS S PO R T PAG E S a

very different. You might understand a

At the end of May, it’s getting into the

Two pages per stamp

few Norwegian words if you say them out

40’s at night, or 6 Celcius. During the

Recommend at least six months beyond your period of stay

loud, but in general you will have a tough

day, temperatures are in the low 50’s to

TOUR I S T V I SA

time understanding Norwegian. Don’t

high 60’s. Make sure you bring layers to

Not required for stays under 90 days

worry, though, the people in Norway

wear in Norway, so that you can remove

speak English very well.

layers as it warms up throughout the

VACCI N AT I O N S

day. Norway winter is very cold, so be

None

CURRENCY

prepared for that with warm clothes.

CURR E N C Y R E S TR I CTI O NS

Norway is not in the European Union, so

ELEC T R I C AL O U T LET S

FOR E N T RY

they do not use the Euro. The currency in

25,000 Norwegian Kroner (or equivalent),

Norway is the Norwegian Krone, or NOK,

In Norway, a power adapter is all you’ll

not including traveler’s checks

or KR is what is shown on price tags and

need to charge your devices. Electrical

menus. Krone come in 1000kr, 500kr,

plugs in Norway are the same as in

CURR E N C Y R E S TR I CTI O NS

200kr, 100kr, and 50kr. The 1000kr note is

mainland Europe, with two round plugs.

FOR E XI T

pretty uncommon, and if someone gives

Your phone, tablet and computer already

25,000 Norwegian Kroner (or equivalent),

you one, ask for 2 500kr notes instead as

have a built-in voltage converter.

without prior approval)

they are easier to spend. The coins come in 1kr, 5kr, 10kr and 20kr. You can use

T R ANSP O R TAT I O N

your credit card in most places, but make sure you have a PIN for your credit card.

Public transportation in Norway is

Having your credit card PIN will make

very good. You can reach almost any

transactions go more smoothly and help

destination in Norway using public

you avoid any issues. ATM’s in Norway

transportation. Just know that it’s

are called a mini-bank and they easy to

expensive and can take longer that you

find in the main cities of Norway.

would expect. The fjords and the terrain of Norway are beautiful, but getting around them adds time to your travels. 61


TRANSPORTATION GUIDE finding your way through the country of Norway

Because of the country’s immense natural

Domestic flights are a great option for

Most major car rental companies are

beauty, Norway transportation here isn’t

those seeking to make the most of their

found in Norway — Hertz, Europcar and

merely a way to get from Point A to Point

time in Norway and for travelers with

Avis among them. Prices can be steep, so

B. It also serves as an exceptional way to

remote destinations on their itinerary, like

shop around online for discounts. You’ll

experience the country, perhaps more so

the North Cape and Svalbard.

need to be at least 21 years old to rent

than other places you might travel.

a car from most companies, and those SAS Scandinavian Airlines operates the

under 25 will likely pay a surcharge. Many

It’s quite efficient and reliable, and

country’s largest fleet. If you’re flying

rental companies require that you’ve

various forms of public transport often

SAS to Norway across the Atlantic

been driving for at least one year and that

work in tandem to provide seamless

Ocean, check out its “Visit Europe and

you have an International Driving Permit

connections. For example, a popular

Scandinavia Airpass,” which can offer

(available from AAA) if you don’t have an

unescorted tour called Norway in a

impressive flight discounts depending on

EU/EEA license.

Nutshell (NorwayinaNutshell.com) offers

your itinerary.

an independent itinerary that takes you

Confirm whether the rental is a manual

to the fjords in one day by combining the

Two regional companies, Wideroe and

transmission or automatic. If your car pick-

country’s best train, ferry and bus rides.

Danish Air Transport, operate smaller

up and drop-off locations differ, expect a

fleets; Wideroe offers its own flight pass

substantial price increase. Take advantage

called the “Explore Norway Ticket.”

of National Tourist Routes, which have

However, getting around Norway isn’t cheap, so it pays to plan in advance and

visitor centers and viewpoints overlooking

search out deals and discounts.

CAR

the breathtaking scenery along the way.

PLANE

Traveling by car in Norway gives you the

A few driving tips to keep in mind:

freedom to go at your own pace and is Norway is served by more than 50

generally not difficult. However, winding

In the colder months winter tires are

airports, eight of which are international.

mountain roads are not for the faint of

required, as snow and ice are common.

Most out-of-country visitors arrive at Oslo

heart, and drivers heading into the more

Smaller roads can close in poor weather

Airport, which is 30 miles north of the city

isolated north, or those who are traveling

conditions.There is no need to stop for

and accessible by train, bus and taxi.

during the winter months, will need to do

tolls on main roads; each car has an

a bit of pre-planning before departure.

electronic tag, and rental companies will


Norway

pass along the charges to you.On country

or at ticket machines. A surcharge is

NSB’s Bergen line, which begins in

roads deposit tolls into clearly marked

assessed for passengers who buy tickets

Oslo, is one of the highest railways in

“honesty boxes.”Headlights must be

after boarding.

Europe and a must for those wanting to

on at all times, and every passenger

experience Norway’s natural beauty. The

is required to wear a seatbelt.Speed

When it comes to long-distance train

privately owned Flam Railway line takes

cameras are plentiful and fines are steep,

travel in Norway, it pays to plan as far

passengers along one of the world’s

so follow the locals’ example and obey the

ahead as possible. NSB sells a limited

steepest and most scenic railways. The

limit. If you’re pulled over for speeding,

number of discounted minipris tickets.

50-minute journey, which passes through

expect to pay the ticket on the spot. You

Minipris can be purchased between three

20 tunnels, is considered an engineering

should receive a receipt.

months and 24 hours before departure;

feat and one of the world’s best train

on long journeys you can save well over

rides.

Using a hand-held phone while driving

50 percent compared to a standard-priced

is illegal. Norway has extremely strict

seat. They are unavailable on certain

drunk driving laws and a low legal limit;

routes and at peak periods, and aren’t

one beer could put you over. Watch for

changeable or refundable.

moose along the road, especially in the

BUS Buses are a reliable long-distance transport mode and, indeed, perhaps

mountains.When traveling in rural areas,

Some trains permit you to upgrade your

your only public transportation option

gas stations can be few and far between,

seats from standard class to “komfort,”

when traveling to Norway’s small, remote

so top off at every opportunity. You must

which is slightly roomier and provides

towns.

carry a yellow fluorescent vest and a

power outlets along with free coffee

red warning triangle in the event of an

and tea, for an additional fee. Two-berth

Nor-Way Bussekspress is the largest

emergency; make sure your rental car

sleepers are a great option for overnight

long-distance company, teaming up with

comes equipped.

travel. Reserve seats in the family coach

smaller carriers to form an extensive

to take advantage of the children’s

network. It provides connections with

playroom, stroller space and other

trains and ferries too. Express bus tickets

amenities.

can be bought onboard by credit card,

TRAIN The state-owned Norwegian State

but booking online may reward you

Railways — NSB for short — is the

For those planning multiple train trips in

with considerable discounts. Note that

country’s primary operator, running both

Norway, the Eurail Norway pass, which is

mountain routes are usually suspended

local and regional trains. Tickets can be

available for three to eight days of travel

during winter months.Discount carrier

purchased online, by mobile app, by phone

within one month.

Lavprisekspressen offers routes from Oslo

63


to Kristiansand, Trondheim and Stavanger.

You can book online or call to make

Tickets can only be purchased online (the

reservations. Though the experience isn’t

website is currently just in Norwegian).

cheap, you can find deals on reservations made well in advance as well as last-

TAXI

minute departures.

Taxi rides in Norway are pricey and, thanks

There are numerous additional operators

to efficient public transport options, easily

of regional car ferries and passenger

avoided. Rates vary by company and can

express boats in Norway, including Norled

be paid by kroner or credit card (just let

in western Norway and Senja Ferries in

your driver know in advance). Taxi stands

the north. In summer months, arrive early

are typically easy to spot in cities; you can

to queue for boarding.

also hail a cab on the street or order one by phone. You’re not expected to tip your

If your travels include other European

driver, though some customers choose to

nations, ferries connecting Norway to

round up their bill. Oslo Taxi offers service

Sweden, Denmark, Germany and the

in the capital, and Norges Taxi is found in

Faroe Islands are available.

several cities. FERRY The only way to visit many of Norway’s isolated islands and coastal villages is by ferry. Ferries are also the best way to experience the country’s dramatic fjords. The most famous ferry voyage is the Hurtigruten, which runs along the western coast between Bergen and Kirkenes. Roundtrip, the entire route covers more than 2,500 miles, stops at more than 30 ports — most of which are above the Arctic Circle — and takes 11 days. You can extend the journey by hopping on and off or shorten it by joining just a section of the trip. The 11 ferries that make the voyage vary in age and style, but all include a restaurant and cafeteria, and most can accommodate cars. Though certainly not cruise-ship comparable, the ships and their cabins are comfortable and casual; different features are outlined on the Hurtigruten website.


HOME IS NEVER FAR.

AWAY


Norway

THIS FALL IN NORWAY what’s going on this season in Norway

SEPT 1

entertainment on stage throughout the

an imagined future where the bees have

ACTIVITIES AND CAFÈ AT LANDA

day - and lots of great food! 30 handicraft

died.

PARK

exhibitors in Spinneriet and around 50 exhibitors in Vågen.

SEPT 27 THE SALMON STUDIO IS OPEN

Bring your family and experience history up close. The archaeological discoveries

SEPT 11

at Landa are unique and can point to a

GUIDED KAYAK TOUR AROUND

Next to the salmon ladder in the

history 2,000 year back in time - from the

JØRPELAND

Sandsfossen waterfall at Sand is one of the firsts salmon studios to be built in

Bronze Age, about 1500 f.Kr, to Migration Period, about 600 AD.

This guided kayaktour from Jørpeland

Norway. The lower part of the salmon

is the top outdoor activity to do at

studio is under water, allowing us to

SEPT 1 - Nov 5

Jørpeland! On this guided kayak tour you

observe the fish through two large glass

MUNCH AND THE RASMUS MEYER

will paddle along the beautiful islands

windows, as they move up the ladder.

COLLECTION

outside Jørpeland, the nature is around the corner!

SEPT 29 RISØR FESTUKE IN RISØR

As one of the first collectors of Edvard Munch’s art, Rasmus Meyer purchased

SEPT 20

chief works from all periods of Munch’s

KAPITTEL 19

Risør festuke is one week in the autumn of sporting activities and contests for

oeuvre. In what is today one of the world’s most important collections of

Kapittel is a non-commercial literary

residents and visitors of all ages with

Munch’s art, you can find masterpieces

festival organized in conjunction with the

many of the active sports clubs in Risør as

such as “Jealousy”, “Melancholy”, “The

Stavanger public library since 1995. The

key stakeholders.

Woman in Three Stages” and “Evening

festival is now one of the largest and best

on Karl Johan”.

known of its kind in Scandinavia.

SEPT 4

SEPT 23

NORWEGIAN FRUIT AND SALMON

THE HISTORY OF BEES

SEPT 30 HALDEN CRUISE NIGHT

FESTIVAL, HJELMELAND

Old cars and rock´n roll has been a great part of the cultural life in Halden for many

The History of Bees, based on Maja

years. Halden Street & Cruisin’ Club

The festival focuses on the fruit and berry

Lunde’s best-selling novel, is a story about

together with the nostalgia shop Fønix

traditions, and salmon trade, of Ryfylke.

mankind’s first attempts of bee-keeping,

invites all interested and curious people

A cultural event with activities and

bees in today’s industrial agriculture and

for a showy American cars event. 67


OCT 1

OCT 14

OCT 23

TRONDHEIM OPEN MUSEUM

GUIDED KAYAK TOUR AROUND

MUSIC MEDITATION

JØRPELAND The National Museum of Justice holds

Welcome to an evening full of relaxing,

interesting objects from Norway’s criminal

This guided kayaktour from Jørpeland

soothing, liberating live music! If you feel

past. See the executioner’s axe, old police

is the top outdoor activity to do at

stressed out or if you just want to feel

cases and torture devices from WW2.

Jørpeland! On this guided kayak tour you

happy inside, this is a perfect opportunity

will paddle along the beautiful islands

for you to meditate in a fun and easy way.

OCT 3

outside Jørpeland, the nature is around

MUSIC MEDITATION

the corner!

OCT 24 MUNCH AND THE RASMUS MEYER

Welcome to an evening full of relaxing,

OCT 16

soothing, liberating live music! If you feel

SÅ SOM I HIMMELEN

stressed out or if you just want to feel

COLLECTION As one of the first collectors of Edvard

happy inside, this is a perfect opportunity

The heart-warming film that made the

Munch’s art, Rasmus Meyer purchased

for you to meditate in a fun and easy way.

whole of Norway laugh and cry has

chief works from all periods of Munch’s

become a celebrated musical. Now it is

oeuvre. In what is today one of the

set up in Stavanger Concert Hall.

world’s most important collections of

OCT 9 ENGEGÅRDS QUARTET AND EIVIND H. RINGSTAD

Munch’s art, you can find masterpieces OCT 17

such as “Jealousy”, “Melancholy”, “The

STAVANGER SENTRUM STREET ART

Woman in Three Stages” and “Evening

TOURS

on Karl Johan”.

– and with guests from Beethoven’s two

Takes you through years of Nuart

OCT 25

cities Bonn and Vienna – you are invited

Festival’s impressive Street Art history

SØNDAGSJAZZEN

to take part in the biggest birthday party

and the evolution of Stavanger into one of

ever arranged in Sandefjord.

the world’s leading destinations for Street

Weekly jazzkonsert with free entrance.

Art.

Søndagsjazzen on Brainnstasjonen have

In solo, chamber and orchestral concerts with the finest of Norwegian musicians

OCT 10 DAS GROSSE OKTOBERFEST 2020

ben going on since 2011. OCT 18 SØNDAGSJAZZEN

OCT 28 GUIDED KAYAK TOUR AROUND

Oktoberfest at the Scandic Maritim Hall with a full-packed evening with

Weekly jazzkonsert with free entrance.

Oktoberfest food, Ronald Schnipfelgruber

Søndagsjazzen on Brainnstasjonen have

Tyrolkapel, OmpaGirls and competitions

ben going on since 2011.

with prizes.

JØRPELAND This guided kayaktour from Jørpeland is the top outdoor activity to do at

OCT 20

Jørpeland! On this guided kayak tour you

OCT 10

MUNCH AND THE RASMUS MEYER

will paddle along the beautiful islands

STAVANGER SENTRUM STREET ART

COLLECTION

outside Jørpeland, the nature is around

TOURS

the corner! As one of the first collectors of Edvard

Takes you through years of Nuart

Munch’s art, Rasmus Meyer purchased

OCT 31

Festival’s impressive Street Art history

chief works from all periods of Munch’s

JANOVE

and the evolution of Stavanger into one of

oeuvre. In what is today one of the

the world’s leading destinations for Art on

world’s most important collections of

Welcome to “Janove - Det Sorte

the Street.

Munch’s art, you can find masterpieces

Karneval” at Scandic Maritim Hall

such as “Jealousy”, “Melancholy”, “The Woman in Three Stages” and “Evening on Karl Johan”.


Norway

NOV 1

NOV 14

NOV 24

MUNCH AND THE RASMUS MEYER

OSLO PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA

A-HA - HUNTING HIGH AND LOW

COLLECTION

LIVE In solo, chamber and orchestral concerts

As one of the first collectors of Edvard

with the finest of Norwegian musicians

The 35th anniversary of the Norwegian

Munch’s art, Rasmus Meyer purchased

– and with guests from Beethoven’s two

largest pop success up to now is

chief works from all periods of Munch’s

cities Bonn and Vienna – you are invited

extended to world tour, while “Take on

oeuvre. In what is today one of the

to take part in the biggest birthday party

Me” passes one billion views on YouTube.

world’s most important collections of

ever arranged in Sandefjord. NOV 25

Munch’s art, you can find masterpieces such as “Jealousy”, “Melancholy”, “The

NOV 16

Woman in Three Stages” and “Evening

NIGHTWISH

on Karl Johan”

SØNDAGSJAZZEN Weekly jazzkonsert with free entrance.

Concert with the grand and epic metal

Søndagsjazzen on Brainnstasjonen have

band Nightwish at Oslo Spektrum.

ben going on since 2011.

NOV 17

NOV 27

Weekly jazzkonsert with free entrance.

MUNCH AND THE RASMUS MEYER

MUNCH AND THE RASMUS MEYER

Søndagsjazzen on Brainnstasjonen have

COLLECTION

COLLECTION

As one of the first collectors of Edvard

As one of the first collectors of Edvard

NOV 7

Munch’s art, Rasmus Meyer purchased

Munch’s art, Rasmus Meyer purchased

JANOVE

chief works from all periods of Munch’s

chief works from all periods of Munch’s

NOV 2 SØNDAGSJAZZEN

ben going on since 2011.

oeuvre. In what is today one of the

oeuvre. In what is today one of the

A concert with Janove at Sentrum Scene.

world’s most important collections of

world’s most important collections of

Lyrics in Norwegian.

Munch’s art, you can find masterpieces

Munch’s art, you can find masterpieces

such as “Jealousy”, “Melancholy”, “The

such as “Jealousy”, “Melancholy”, “The

NOV 8

Woman in Three Stages” and “Evening

Woman in Three Stages” and “Evening

MUSIC MEDITATION

on Karl Johan”

on Karl Johan”

Welcome to an evening full of relaxing,

NOV 21

NOV 29

soothing, liberating live music! If you feel

PULSE OF FLOYD

MUSIC MEDITATION

happy inside, this is a perfect opportunity

Pink Floyd Tribute held in Sanden 2, Larvik

Welcome to an evening full of relaxing,

for you to meditate in a fun and easy way.

in collaboration with Bølgen Kulturhus

soothing, liberating live music! If you feel

NOV 14

NOV 22

happy inside, this is a perfect opportunity

CREEDENCEMANIA – COSMO´S

MUSIC MEDITATION

for you to meditate in a fun and easy way

stressed out or if you just want to feel

stressed out or if you just want to feel

FACTORY ´50 Welcome to an evening full of relaxing, Lookin´out my back door, Who´ll stop the

soothing, liberating live music! If you feel

Rain, Up around the Bend, Travelin Band,

stressed out or if you just want to feel

Heard it through the Grapevine, Run

happy inside, this is a perfect opportunity

through the jungle og Long as I can see

for you to meditate in a fun and easy way.

the Light - all these songs have one thing in common; they are all on the amazing album Cosmo´s Factory!

69


Norway

NINE AMAZING ISLANDS IN NORTHERN NORWAY finding your way through the country of Norway

Norway is famous for its natural beauty,

all year round. This is a not an adventure

midnight sun. If you’ve got a car you can

and while the fjords and the northern

you should embark on lightly, though; this

drive there using Europe’s northernmost

lights always seem to make it onto

guide to visiting Svalbard has more on

road – alternatively, you’re at the

tourists’ itineraries, the country’s

how to get there and what to see and do

mercy of the Hurtigruten cruises or the

stunning islands rarely get a look in.

when you arrive.

public buses from Honningsvåg, in the southeastern part of the island.

If you’ve got the time to spare, these

Magerøy Kvaløya (Hammerfest)

beautiful islands in the north of the country are well worth a visit. Go in

Further south but still a long way from

the winter for snowy wonderlands and

being tropical, Magerøy is sometimes

If you’re already driving as far as the

dancing aurora, or wait until summer for

called the northernmost point in mainland

North Cape, you should definitely make

wild flowers, blissfully empty beaches

Europe. Of course it’s actually an island,

time for a detour to the island of Kvaløya

and gorgeous, slow-motion sunsets.

so that statement is not strictly true, but

– and specifically, the picture-perfect

it is connected to the mainland by a long

town of Hammerfest.

Svalbard

undersea tunnel (Nordkapptunnelen). Together with Vardø in the very northeast

Norway’s northernmost archipelago,

Magerøy – a wild, edge-of-the-world

of Norway, Hammerfest is the oldest

Svalbard offers so many opportunities for

place – has long fascinated visitors, and

town in the country. Here you’ll find

getting outdoors and reconnecting with

archaeologists have found traces of

colourful, chocolate-box houses and one

raw, untamed nature. From hiking in the

human activity dating back some 10,000

part of the Struve Geodetic Arc, a huge,

mountains to going dog-sledding in the

years. The island looks magnificent during

multi-country-spanning contraption that

snow, there are lots of guided tours on

the winter, when the handful of pretty,

was used to measure the size and shape

offer, but solo exploration can be difficult

coloured houses stand out against the

of the Earth back in the 1800s. You’ll also

(not to mention downright dangerous,

endless white snow, but it’s really best

be able to enjoy the beautiful viewpoint

thanks to local population of polar bears).

visited during the summer (as with all of

up at Mount Salen – you can see pretty

these islands, it’s light around the clock

much all of Hammerfest from up here.

for much of May, June and July).

Before you leave town, make sure to

Other options include going snowmobiling or exploring the abandoned

become a member of the exclusive ‘Royal

Russian mining settlement known as

The island’s main attraction is

and Ancient Polar Bear Society’ down at

Pyramiden. Svalbard has become a

undoubtedly the North Cape, where

the Hurtigruten pier!

popular winter and summer destination

a vast, flat-topped sea cliff provides

in recent years, so you’ll find plenty to do

life-affirming views of the sea and the 71


Upon joining (a process which costs

the ocean, and the island is known for

quite crowded these days – especially in

around 180 NOK and helps to support

its strong gales, but looks-wise it’s an

the summer – there still are some serene

the exhibition) you’ll receive a lovely bear-

absolute beaut, and is well worth the

spots left that will leave you feeling

shaped pin. Wear it proudly, polar bear

hour’s drive from the Tromsø. Go for a

awestruck.

lover!

hike and enjoy the views – but remember you’re in the Arctic, so dress accordingly!

Kvaløya (near Tromsø)

The tiny archipelago of Røst, for example, is right at the very edge of Lofoten,

Senja Kvaloya is a pretty island near Tromso

100km from the mainland. The biggest island here, Røstlandet, has a total area of

The second island in this guide with

Senja is Norway’s second-biggest island

just four square miles but is surrounded

the same name, this particular Kvaløya

and a paradise for any hiker, skier or

by hundreds of smaller, uninhabited

lies around 28km west of Tromsø. This

photographer, with endless possibilities to

islands (well, uninhabited by people, at

is Norway’s fifth-largest island and it’s

take beautiful pictures or just get out and

least). Almost a million birds nest out

connected to the city of Tromsø by a

enjoy the great outdoors.

here during summer, including lots of

bridge; you can make the entire ‘crossing’ in around 40 minutes.

cute puffins. You can get to Røst by plane The easiest way to get to Senja is to take

or ferry from Bodø on the Norwegian

a plane to Bardufoss and then rent a car at

mainland.

The island is exceptionally pretty to look

the airport, or make the three-hour drive

at and its mountainous interior offers up

from Tromsø. Another (very scenic) option

spectacular views and the promise of

would be to take the Hurtigruten cruise or

some memorable wildlife encounters

the regular passenger ferry from Tromsø

Kjerringøy is actually a peninsula, rather

(reindeer run wild and there are often

to Finnsnes.

than an island, but as it can only be

eagles circling overhead).

Kjerringøy

reached by ferry, we think it’s worth Vesterålen Islands

Another nice highlight to look out for on

including in this round up of northern Norway’s best islands.

Kvaløya is the open-air museum called

The Vesterålen Islands are just north

Hella. Situated close to ancient rock

of the Lofoten Islands and are home to

This old trading post lies around 30

carvings and at a bay that’s great for

similarly stunning landscapes, but they

minutes north of Bodø, and tends to hit

fishing and watching the Hurtigruten

tend to be a little less crowded – making

its stride in the summer, when visitors

cruise ships glide by, Hella makes a great

them the perfect destination if you want

can learn more about the history of the

destination for a road trip from Tromsø if

to see Norway without any of the tourist

area, enjoy typical Norwegian waffles

you want to escape the city and explore

hubbub. There are a few great places to

topped with brown cheese, or just wander

the landscapes of Northern Norway.

stay, and prices tend to be a little lower

along the beach and admire the views. If

than in Lofoten. Another advantage of

you’re in need of a bit more action, head

There are plenty of cosy rental properties

heading to Vesterålen is that you’ll have

to Sjunkhatten National Park for a hike in

here, in case you want to escape from the

the chance to go whale watching. While

the mountains – with a little bit of luck,

hustle and bustle of modern life.

this is also possible in Tromsø during the

you might also meet some of the resident

winter, the whales appear around the

reindeer.

Sommarøy

Vesterålen Islands pretty much all year round. If you want to visit, the easiest

Named the ‘summer island’ by optimistic

option is to base yourself in Andenes, at

locals, Sommarøy feels a long way from

the archipelago’s northernmost tip – it’s

the Caribbean, but it does share certain

home to an airport and a couple of nice

features with its tropical counterparts

hotels.

– expect plenty of sandy beaches and turquoise water, along with colourful

Lofoten Islands

wooden cabins (these can be rented at Sommarøy Arctic Hotel).

The spectacular Lofoten Islands are understandably high on many tourists’

Granted, neither the water nor the air

itineraries when visiting northern Norway

temperatures invite you to take a dip in

and although the islands do tend to be


Explore. Fjällräven.


Norway

SEEING THE NORTHERN LIGHTS IN NORWAY a beautiful display of a natural northern phenomenon

Despite the bone-numbingly cold

Norway for your northern lights

area between Bodø and Svalbard is

temperatures, Norway’s far north has

adventure. It’s safe, it’s easy to get

usually considered the best for seeing the

become the place to be in winter. This

around, and large parts of the country

northern lights in Norway.

is a beautiful area to explore with lots

are far enough north to give you a good

of fun activities to enjoy, but the main

chance of seeing the lights.

Tours to see the northern lights

the magical northern lights, which dance

There’s a good selection of hotels and

Tours to see the northern lights

across the inky black skies in beautiful

hostels in the north of Norway, too, so

Joining an organised northern lights

swirls of colour.

you’ll never have too much trouble finding

tour in Norway can be expensive, but it

somewhere to stay. In northern Norway

makes a lot of sense if you want to get

you also have the ability to mix aurora

out into the countryside, learn some new

spotting with a look around fjords, or a

photography skills or combine aurora-

This guide will give you tips on when

trip up into the mountains.

spotting with another outdoor activity.

to visit Norway for the best chance of

If you’re worried about the costs

seeing the northern lights, and will also

adding up, and your main mission is to

On this amazing three-hour sailing tour

give you some suggestions on the best

experience the northern lights, our advice

from Tromsø, you’ll glide out into a fjord

places to see the lights – from Bodø and

would be to consider Sweden instead –

aboard a catamaran and find the perfect

Alta on the Norwegian mainland to more

it’s a little cheaper and you’ll have just as

place to watch the aurora, far from major

remote places like Lofoten and Svalbard.

much chance of seeing the lights.

sources of light pollution. Another option

reason people turn up is simple: to see

Northern lights in Norway

We’ve also rounded up some of the best

near Tromsø is this husky sledding

northern lights tours, in case you fancy

Where can I see the northern

adventure, which includes a campfire

getting off the beaten track or simply

lights in Norway?

meal and the chance to meet some very

want to learn how to photograph the

eager doggies.

aurora. Here’s everything you need to

For the most part, you’ll only be able to

know about seeing the northern lights in

see the aurora in the northern part of

If you’re visiting Lofoten, this small group

Norway.

Norway. Experts say your chances will

minibus tour is ideal for first timers

increase the nearer you get to the so-

looking to catch a glimpse of the northern

Is Norway a good place to see

called ‘auroral zone’, a band that stretches

lights (it can be rebooked if the weather

the lights?

around the planet around 2000–3000km

doesn’t look good or if there isn’t any sign

from the magnetic pole. The good news

of solar activity).

Well, it can be expensive. But there are

is that lots of places in Norway fall under

loads of positive reasons for choosing

that band. As a very rough guide, the 75


Of course, if the conditions are right,

Despite all that, there are some things

enough. For the absolute best chance

there’s nothing to stop you catching

you can do to boost your chances of

of seeing the lights, you should arrive

the lights well outside that area. It’s not

seeing the lights. The places we’ve

during the middle of winter, when the

unheard of to see them as far north as

picked out below are known for their

sky is completely dark around the clock.

Svalbard or as far south as Oslo – but

clear skies and frequent displays, so it

In simple terms, less light means there’s

realistically, the chances of you seeing

pays to visit one of those. You should

more chances for you to see the aurora.

green skies over the Norwegian capital

also leave yourself plenty of time – you

are very low indeed.

might get lucky, but only having one night

The only downside to arriving at this

in the north is going to cut your chances

time of year is the extreme cold –

significantly.

temperatures can stay well below

There are other factors at play, beyond your latitude. The intensity of overhead

freezing for weeks on end. You should

displays depends a lot on the amount of

When’s the best time of year

also consider whether you want to do

solar activity, and of course you won’t be

to see the northern lights in

other activities, as the lack of daylight and

able to see any lights if it’s still daylight

Norway?

warmth can make things like long hikes

(a serious consideration during Norway’s

and husky tours very tricky indeed.

bright summer). Then there’s the

Theoretically, you should be able to see

weather to think about – even if all other

the northern lights whenever it gets

If you’d like a solid recommendation, our

conditions are perfect, there’s a chance

properly dark. For northern Norway that

advice is to visit Norway on either side

that clouds can ruin your view.

means any time between late September

of the winter. The shoulder seasons of

and early April. You might get lucky

late-September–early November, and

Needless to say, you’ll need a bit of

and be able to see the aurora in early

March–April will give you much milder

planning and a bit of luck: it really is

September or late April, but you will have

temperatures. There’s also more of a

possible to spend a long weekend (or

far fewer hours of darkness to play with.

separation between night and day, with

even a couple of weeks) in the north

enough light to get stuff done during the

of Norway without seeing the northern

There’s really not much chance of

daytime and enough darkness to enjoy

lights. For that reason, never let tour

you seeing the northern lights during

the aurora in the evening.

companies tell you that you’ll definitely

Norway’s summer (roughly May–

see the lights – they just don’t know that

August). There might be solar activity but

the conditions will be right.

the sun barely sets in northern parts of the country, so it never really gets dark


Norway

Where are the best places to see

the sea – making sure that your chances

Like Tromsø, Bodø is best reached by

the lights in Norway?

of spotting the aurora at the border are

plane from Oslo or by Hurtigruten cruise

just a little bit higher than anywhere else

from Bergen. It’s connected to the

Tromsø and the Lyngen Alps

around Tromsø.

railway network, so you can take the train

The biggest city in Norway’s north –

A two-hour flight from Oslo, Stockholm

from Trondheim too. Even so, you’ll want

Tromsø – has endless opportunities for

or London, Tromsø is best reached by

to rent a car to get the most out of your

northern lights safaris and tours. Happily,

plane. There are no train connections but

time in the area.

Tromsø also has dozens of restaurants,

if slow travel is your thing, you can hop

cafes, museums and stores to check out

aboard the Hurtigruten coastal steamer

The Lofoten and Vesterålen Islands

during the daytime, and there’s some

and travel all the up way from Bergen.

Arguably the most beautiful place on this list, the Lofoten and Vesterålen Islands

great nature and wildlife on its doorstep. Bodø

offer wild landscapes and plenty of

For example, if you make the trip up here

Bodø is not as well known as Tromsø

darkness at night – perfect to watch the

during the polar night (when it’s dark

and often tends to be overlooked, but

aurora dancing in the sky.

around the clock) you might be able to

this coastal city is a great alternative if

spot some orcas or humpback whales out

you want to skip the crowds and explore

While the small town of Svolvær in

in the fjords. The Fjellheisen cable car is

off the beaten path. There are several

Lofoten offers excellent restaurants and

well worth a ride on to – not only does

national parks nearby, including Rago and

bars, as well as dozens of activities and

it offer a stunning view of the city from

Sjunkhatten (near Fauske). The Kjerringøy

tours to choose from, the smaller villages

above, but it’s also a great and unusual

peninsula offers plenty of outdoor

like Henningsvær and Unstad offer little

spot from which to view the northern

activities (and darkness!) as well.

but vistas and raw nature – perfect if

lights.

Besides being a great playground

you’d like to experience the true soul of

for adventurers and northern lights

northern Norway. Andenes in Vesterålen

The biggest advantage Tromsø can offer

photographers, the city of Bodø itself

then again is another great spot if you

passing aurora hunters is its proximity

has some stunning street art and plenty

want to catch a glimpse of whales, in

to the Lyngen Alps, at the border with

of authentic Norwegian cuisine to offer,

addition to the northern lights.

Finland. Only a two-hour drive from the

making it a great all-round destination.

city, this mountain range serves as a

To reach Lofoten, you can fly from Oslo,

cover from bad weather coming in from

Tromsø and Bodø. Alternative you can

77


take a ferry/express boat from Bodø, or

Tips for seeing the lights

take a Hurtigruten cruise from Bergen. Vesterålen can be reached by air from

Find darkness

both Bodø and Tromsø.

Light is the enemy so regardless of where you are, try to get away from

Alta

sources of artificial illumination. Once

Calling itself the city of the northern

you’re away from streetlights and cars, let

lights, this town in coastal Finnmark

your eyes adjust to the darkness – even

might be exactly what you’re looking for.

looking at a torch or a phone screen can

Compact and with just enough cafes,

make it trickier to see the lights. You

stores and museums to keep you

might want to use a red light (like this

entertained, it’s also pure and wild.

one), which is less likely to affect your

Besides the unique Northern Lights

night vision.

cathedral (modelled on the wisps of colour that dance in the sky) Alta’s

Use an app

highlights include the ancient rock

There are a few free services out there

carvings found at Alta museum, the grand

which monitor solar activity and let you

Sautso Canyon, and the famous Igloo

know when it’s likely you’ll be able to

Hotel at Sorrisniva.

see the northern lights. We usually use the aurora alerts from Soft Serve News

You can fly to Alta from Oslo or Tromsø

– if you follow them on Twitter you can

– there’s also a bus from Tromsø. If

get free alerts. Usually there’s enough

you’re on a wider trip through Finnmark,

warning for you to wrap up, head outside

you can use the bus connections from

and get to a nice dark spot before the

Hammerfest, Honningsvåg and Kirkenes.

show begins.

Svalbard

Wait until there’s activity

Situated halfway between the mainland

Rather than freezing outside, find a nice

of Norway and the North Pole, Svalbard is

warm spot by a window (or in your car

as remote as it gets. If you like the idea of

with the lights off) and wait for some

a polar night that lasts three months, and

activity. Once you see the first glimmer of

the thought of venturing out into polar

green in the sky, it’s time to step outside.

bear territory doesn’t scare you away, this place is for you!

Be patient

Thanks to the archipelago’s location at

The lights come and go, and may

78° north, Svalbard is one of the few

disappear for a long time or simply not

places in the world where you can reliably

show up at all. The best thing is to be

see aurora during the daytime. This

patient (whatever you do, wrap up warm

increases your chances of seeing the

and carry a thermos with something hot

lights enormously, but you’ll obviously

in it).

have to dig a little deeper to pay for the trip.

Don’t forget insurance Norway is a safe place but our advice

Svalbard can be reached by plane

is very simple: you still need travel

from Oslo or Tromsø. When booking

insurance. A good policy can make a

accommodation, make sure to search

world of difference if things go wrong

for a hotel in Longyearbyen and not the

when you’re in the middle of nowhere

Russian settlement of Barentsburg –

watching the northern lights. The best

although it may be cheaper, it can usually

policies also offer trip cancellation cover,

only be reached by snowmobile in winter.

so that you could get the money for your tour back if there is an emergency.


IT’S YO U R S . TA K E I T.


NEW NORDIC CULINARY MOVEMENT

more than a decade after it began, it’s still going strong,

ALMANAK No list of Scandinavian cookbooks would be legitimate without this tome: the bible of Danish cooking by the godfather of New Nordic, Claus Meyer. Meyer’s title regarding New Nordic is a little misleading though, because much of his cooking is actually very traditional. This book is just that – all the recipes you’d want to know to create a full table of Danish delights, from baked goods to herring to bolle i karry. No pictures, just step-bystep instructions.

THE NORDIC COOKBOOK Magnus Nilsson, the Swedish chef behind Faviken, has put together 700 recipes from across the Nordic region including the Faroe Islands, Greenland, and Finland. The recipes run from traditional and well-known to weird and lesser-known. Nilsson takes the reader through how to create each recipe in an accessible way, organizing the recipes by food type for ease. It’s a big, beautiful cookbook full of great information that’s actually useable.


Norway

NORTH WILD KITCHEN: HOME COOKING FROM THE HEART OF NORWAY This beautiful cookbook photographed and written by food blogger Nevada Berg garnered critical acclaim shortly after its release. The cookbook tells a visual story of Norwegian culinary traditions with each chapter centred on a different element of local food culture. The recipes range from smoked trout mousse to cinnamon buns, and demonstrate that Norway is a culinary force within the New Nordic movement.

LAGOM: THE SWEDISH ART OF EATING HARMONIOUSLY Channeling the Swedish concept of lagom (“lah-gom”) – which means “just the right amount” in Swedish – The Swedish Art of Eating Harmoniously offers a peek into Swedish living. With gluten-free recipes like savory buckwheat pancakes and minimalist photos, this cookbook will inspire you to embrace indulgent moderation.

NORTH: THE NEW NORDIC CUISINE OF ICELAND The debut cookbook of Gunnar Gíslason, the chef behind Reykjavík’s Michelin-star restaurant Dill, documents contemporary Icelandic culinary traditions through photos, recipes and personal stories. Gíslason’s dishes reflect the uniqueness of the country’s flora and fauna, and are a true celebration of Iceland’s food culture.

81


MEYER’S BAKERY: BREAD AND BAKING IN THE NORDIC KITCHEN For the perfect bread, particularly sourdough, step right up. Published in 2017 by Claus Meyer, Meyer’s Bakery is the gospel for whole-grain, slow fermentation baking. The cookbook has step-by-step instructions with lots of pictures and troubleshooting that can guide even the reluctant baker to a delicious loaf. This is a great book for experts and beginners alike.

NOMA: TIME AND PLACE IN NORDIC CUISINE Not everyone can get a table at a world’s best restaurant but René Redzepi’s noma Time and Place will make you feel like you were there. It’s the kind of cookbook that one buys to lust after the gorgeous photos, as well as learn some incredible techniques and recipes. Even though it’s almost 10 years old the cookbook is no less stunning or enlightening.

FIRE + ICE: CLASSIC NORDIC COOKING This comprehensive book of Nordic recipes was nominated for the James Beard Award in 2016. With easy-to-execute recipes for both savory and sweet, classic dishes, this is definitely a cookbook you’ll be reaching for again and again. This book isn’t about complicate plates; it’s all about homecooking and how to bring Nordic flavors into your life in a real way.


Norway

FIKA: THE ART OF THE SWEDISH COFFEE BREAK Fika is more than the tradition of having a midday coffee; it’s a Swedish ritual of slowing down and enjoying life. In their cookbook, Anna Brones and Johanna Kindvall describe the cultural concept alongside 50 delightfully illustrated recipes to create the perfect fika experience. Coffee and pastry lovers: this one is for you!

GRØD This cookbook may seem a bit out of place compared to the others, but there’s a good reason why it’s included on the list. Compiled by the two childhood friends behind the world’s first porridge bar, Grød, the eponymous cookbook is a collection of their most popular dishes. Recipes include traditional Danish ones like øllebrød (rye beer porridge) to more delicate, seasonal Nordic bowls like sweet rhubarb porridge.

THE NEW NORDIC: RECIPES FROM A SCANDINAVIAN KITCHEN Written by chef, photographer, and food stylist Simon Bajada, The New Nordic is the kind of cookbook you’ll want to keep on your coffee table. In addition to recipes that celebrate dishes from Norway to Finland, the book includes how to’s for classic Scandinavian techniques like pickling.

83


THE PERFECT STATEMENT EARRINGS This Oslo-based multidisciplinary studio makes their gorgeous goods by hand.


Norway

Founded in 2018 by Linda Christiansen

working towards finding other solutions.

and Mikal Strøm, Oslo-based Mold Atelier

At the moment, we don’t have stock

is a full service creative studio that does

– each order is custom-made. We’re

everything from art direction to brand

exploring having the shapes laser-cut,

consulting. They also design products,

which would make things much easier.

most notably their gorgeous, sculptural

But that’s all in the future! For now, the

earrings.

earrings are handmade.”

Rendered in brass, Mold Atelier’s earrings

But the making of the jewelry is just the

are both light and make a statement.

beginning. “The brass is polished matte.

Linda, a designer and stylist, makes all

It has a life of its own and develops this

the jewelry by hand in the studio.

really nice patina due to oxidation. So the jewelry is not only long lasting, but

She began creating pieces for herself in

it changes over time,” Mikal explains.

2017. Friends started requesting them,

If, however, you’d like your jewelry to

so Linda began producing more. She

go back to its original shine, just wash it

named the earring designs from the

gently in soapy, warm water.

first collection after important people in her life; finding ways that the shapes

It’s the sculptural aspect of the earrings

remind her of their personalities. The

that are most interesting. They’re both

second collection, “Stones Collection,”

on-trend and timeless. Their most popular

was inspired by Linda and Mikal’s road

pair, called “Two Stones,” looks like

trip through the American Great Basin

jewelry designed by Barbara Hepworth:

Desert, where nature has shaped the

visually weighty, yet somehow other-

topography into shapes that seem to

worldly. If you’re looking for that perfect

challenge gravity.

pair of statement earrings, these will look

The earrings are made of .15 mm brass

good for a lifetime.

sheets. They’re incredibly thin and sleek. “The earrings are really time consuming to make,” Mikal explains, “so we’re

85


NORWAY’S BEST NATIONAL PARKS the most unspoiled natural areas of beauty


Norway

Stabbursdalen National Park

Norwegians are rightly proud of their

Getting there

gorgeous landscapes, and they take a

The best way to get to the national park is

serious attitude towards conservation.

to drive (if you need to hire a car try this

At the very top of Norway lies the

As a result of this, Norway’s parks are

page, which lets you find good rates on

spectacular Stabbursdalen National

an excellent place to spot any number of

short-term rentals). Depending on your

Park, which encompasses the world’s

rare creatures including musk oxen, sea

route, you can take the Riksvei 604 to

northernmost pine forest.

eagles and arctic foxes.

Jostedalen, the E5 to Fjærland, the E39

But wildlife spotting isn’t the only

to Jølster, the Riksvei 60 to Oldedalen

This remote and enigmatic area sits

and Lodalen, or the E15 to Erdalen.

well within the Arctic Circle, and

attraction here. Adventure lovers will

is characterised by vast plains and

also find lots of things to do in Norway’s

From those places you’ll find smaller

towering mountains. It also shelters a

protected areas, such as cycling, skiing,

roads that will take you further into

number of rare animal species, including

hiking and kayaking. Best of all, most of

some of the valleys of the national park,

predators such as wolverine and lynx.

the parks also feature a helpful network

including Fjærland, Jostedalen, Stardalen,

Stabbursdalen also includes some

of huts and cabins where you can cosy up

Veitastrond, Lodalen, Erdalen and

excellent hiking trails, as well as rivers

after a busy day of exploring.

Oldedalen.

where you can try your hand at fishing for wild Norwegian salmon.

Read on to discover some of the best

What is there to see and do in

national parks to visit in Norway, along

Jostedalsbreen?

And this far north, when you finally bed

with practical information such as where

Join a guided hike onto the Nigardsbreen

down for the night, you’ll also stand

to stay during your trip.

glacier, and explore magical blue‑ice

a good chance of spotting ethereal

caves

northern lights dancing in the sky above

Take a trip on the Loen Skylift, a thrilling

you (as long as the season is right).

Jostedalsbreen National Park

cable‑car ride up to the top of Mount In the western part of Norway, right in the

Hoven

Getting there

middle of fjord country, Jostedalsbreen

Enjoy a cruise down the Nærøyfjord,

If you’re taking the E6 from the south,

National Park is home to some of the

one of Norway’s only two Unesco-listed

you’ll want to drive around 13km past the

country’s most stunning scenery.

fjords. At some points, this beautiful

centre of Lakselv.If you’re coming along

valley narrows to only 250 metres wide.

the E6 from the north, you’ll find the

This is also where you’ll find the

entrance around 2km south of the bridge

Jostedalsbreen glacier, the largest

Where can I stay in Jostedalsbreen?

that crosses over the Stabbur river. There

icecap in mainland Europe. Over many

There are a wide range of

should be a signposted entrance on a

thousands of years, this vast glacier has

accommodation options available at

gravel path, and you’ll find a car park after

shaped the landscape around it into a mix

Jostedalsbreen National Park. You could

around 6km.

of steep mountains and tree‑lined valleys.

try pitching your tent in one of the park’s designated camping spots, or hiring a

Needless to say, there are some truly

cabin for the night.

amazing hikes in this part of Norway,

What is there to see and do in Stabbursdalen?

including both easy routes and more

Reliable options include the Briksdalsbre

Book yourself onto a dog‑sledding

demanding mountainside treks. In some

Mountain Lodge and the cabins at

adventure, and experience being whisked

areas, you can even walk on parts of the

Aabrekk Gard. On the other hand, if

through the snowy landscape by a team

glacier itself – although for safety reasons

you’re after more luxury during your

of eager huskies.

you’ll need to do this in the company of a

stay, there are also a number of hotels

local guide.

to choose from, including Nigardsbreen

Learn more about the indigenous Sami

Hotel or Jostedal Hotel.

people who inhabit this part of Norway,

Jostedalsbreen also borders the

and discover some of their customs and

Sognefjord, the longest and deepest

traditions.

fjord in Norway (more on that here). Here you can enjoy a whole host of

Spend a night at the Sorrisniva igloo hotel

outdoor activities, including camping and

in the arctic town of Alta, which opens its

kayaking.

doors every January, 87


Where can I stay in Stabbursdalen?

Åndalsnes to Sunndalsøra, or Riksvei 70

This is also one of the best places in

Near to the Stabbursdalen national park,

from Sunndalsøra to Oppdal.

Norway to go foraging and berry‑picking;

you can choose from a range of serviced

in summer, you might even stumble

cabins for hire, including those offered by

What is there to see and do in Dovrefjell-

across a bush of tasty, bright‑orange

Stabbursdalen Resort, and Stabbursdalen

Sunndalsfjella?

cloudberries – referred to by Norwegians

Lodge.

Visit the Snøhetta Viewpoint, a stylish

as ‘highland gold’.

modern building in curved timber and Within the park, the only accommodation

glass, and enjoy the view out over one of

Getting there

option is the Ivarstua cabin, which is

Norway’s most awe‑inspiring mountains.

If you’re travelling from Røros by bus or

open for visitors to spend the night. This

Book yourself onto a musk-ox safari, and

car, Road 532 will lead you to the park’s

basic wooden cabin includes beds, an

witness these impressive arctic creatures

Synnervika/Langen Tourist Centre. You

outdoor toilet and a wood-burning stove.

in their natural habitat.

can also take Road 221 from Elverum,

There’s more info about the cabin on this

Rena or Koppang to Elgå.

website. Where can I stay in Dovrefjell-

In summer, you can also take the boat

Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella National

Sunndalsfjella?

called ‘MS Fæmund II’ across Femunden

Park

While in the national park, it’s worth

Lake – it departs from Buvika, Elgå,

staying for a night at the Nyheim Lodge.

Jonasvollen, Femundshytta, Synnervika,

Close to the centre of Norway, the

This beautiful old hotel was once the

and Femundsenden, stopping at Haugen,

imposing Dovrefjell mountain range is

summer retreat of an English upper-

Røosen and Revlingen. Full details and

something of a national landmark. The

class family, and much of the furniture

the sailing schedule can be found here.

highest peak in the range, Snøhetta,

has been kept from this period. If you’re

lies more than 2,280m above sea level,

planning to hike through the Dovrefjell

What is there to see and do in

making this area an excellent challenge

region, you’ll also find many mountain

Femundsmarka?

for experienced hikers.

cabins where you can stop for a rest.

But there’s so much more to see here

Some of the best cabins include

settlement of Røros. This enchanting

than just mountains. Visitors to the

Åmotdalshytta, Grøvudalshytta

town is home to lots of traditional

Dovrefjell‑Sunndalsfjella National Park

and Gammelsetra – all of which are

wooden buildings, some of which date

will find verdant wetlands, lush valleys

self‑service and can be booked through

back to the 17th century.

and old‑fashioned dairy farms dotting the

the Norwegian Trekking Association’s

landscape.

website.

Visit the nearby Unesco-listed mining

Sign up for a guided canoeing trip among Femundsmarka’s many lakes, rivers

The park also plays home to some of

Femundsmarka National Park

Norway’s more unusual and charismatic

and wetlands. This is the perfect place to enjoy the great outdoors, see some

inhabitants – a herd of wild musk‑ox.

The Femundsmarka national park sits on

splendid birdlife, and take a break from

These giant, shaggy creatures were

the border with Sweden and, together

the hectic pace of everyday living.

shipped over in the middle of the 20th

with adjoining nature reserves, forms

Century, and have gone on to thrive in the

one of the largest areas of preserved

national park.

wilderness in southern Scandinavia.

Where can I stay in Femundsmarka? There are plenty of places to stay within

Getting there

The park is especially known for its

the Femundsmarka national park,

If you’re coming by train, take the Dovre

network of lakes and wetlands, home to

including serviced and self‑service cabins

line to Oppdal, Kongsvold, Hjerkinn or

a range of bird species such as golden

as well as open huts. Some of the best

Dombås, or the Rauma line to Åndalsnes,

eagles, Siberian jays and black‑throated

options for overnighting in the park

Bjorli or Lesja.

divers.

include Femund Nasjonalparkhotell, and

For those travelling by car or bus, there

Some of the most popular activities in

the cabins at Båtstø Camping.

are also a number of roads that lead into

Femundsmarka national park include

the national park. Options include the E6

canoeing, sport fishing and hiking.

over Dovrefjell, the E136 from Dombås to Åndalsnes, the Riksvei 660 from


ICEL


AND


Iceland

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW all the essential information for your trip to Iceland

PASSPORT VALIDITY

LANGUAGE

WEATHER

least six months beyond your period of

Icelandic is the official language spoken

37-45°F in October with an average of a

stay.

in Iceland. There’s little chance you will

43% chance of precipitation.

Three months required, Recommend at

crack the code on speaking Icelandic on BLANK PASSPORT PAGES

your first visit to Iceland. Luckily, English

Two pages for entry stamp

is spoken everywhere in Iceland, even amongst the children.

TOURIST VISA REQUIRED

ELECTRICAL OUTLETS Electrical outlets in Iceland are the same as most European countries. The plugs

Not required for stays under 90 days

CURRENCY

VACCINATIONS

Sometimes you’ll see prices quoted in

electrical devices in Iceland because you’ll

None

Euros, but the currency in Iceland is the

be taking lots of pictures!

in Iceland have two circle plugs. Make sure you have an adapter to charge your

Icelandic Krona, or ISK. The bills come CURRENCY RESTRICTIONS

in 10,000 ISK, 5,000 ISK, 1,000 ISK

FOR ENTRY

and 500 ISK. Coins start at 1 ISK, 5 ISK,

TRANSPORTATION

Any amount over 10,000 Euros (or

10 ISK, 50 ISK and 100 ISK. The best

Your best option for getting around

equivalent) must be declared

way to get Iceland Krona for spending

Iceland is to rent a car. A recommended

is at the ATM. Keep in mind that as you

rental vehicle is a 4WD, which gives you

CURRENCY RESTRICTIONS

drive around the country, it can get very

more options for exploring off the beaten

FOR EXIT

isolated, so you won’t find an ATM in

path. There is public transportation in

Any amount over 10,000 Euros (or

every village. Get the cash you need

Iceland, but the buses don’t run very

equivalent) must be declared

when you arrive in Reykjavik. Credit cards

often, and you won’t have the flexibility to

are also widely accepted in Iceland.

pull off at any landmarks.

93


TRANSPORTATION GUIDE how to use public transportation in Reyjavik

Not sure how to use public transportation

Strætó tickets cost 470 ISK (25 DKK/3.40

information is easily found on either the

in Reykjavik? It’s easy on foot when the

EUR) per ride.

website or app, including timetables and a

weather allows, but during the colder

real time map showing where your

months in Iceland it doesn’t feel entirely

anticipated bus is currently located.

inviting, or when pulling luggage or

HOW TO BUY A STRÆTÓ BUS

carrying packages.

TICKET IN REYKJAVIK?

STRÆTÓ APP

The main form of transportation in

We highly recommend downloading

You can purchase both bus cards and

Reykjavík is the bus, or Strætó as the

the Strætó app before you hop on that

single rides on the app.

locals call it. There is no metro, train or

brighter-than-the-sun yellow bus. The

It’s preferred to activate your ticket on the

ferry service in Reykjavik. Luckily, the bus

website is convenient as well, but the app

app before entering the bus. Activation

service is both accessible and affordable.

includes a payment method using Visa or

lasts for 75 minutes. When traveling

Need help getting around Reykjavik?

Mastercard, so you can forgo worrying

outside the capital via Strætó purchase

Here’s how to use public transport in the

about having 470 ISK in your pocket.

Country Ticket.

capital:

You can buy a bus ticket onboard, but you need to have the exact amount of

STRÆTÓ

ARE BIKES ALLOWED ON THE BUS?

cash available. Please note that the bus drivers cannot accept credit cards nor give

Bikes are permitted on the bus, if room

Strætó (or Straeto for simplified spelling)

change if you have bigger bills. That’s why

allows. There’s a designated area for

is the Reykjavik bus service and offers an

we recommend using the app.

bicycles, baby carriages, and wheelchairs

extensive coverage of the city, with every

in the center of the bus. Baby carriages

corner and neighborhood of Reykjavik on

and wheelchairs have priority access and

its route, running seven days a week.

REYKJAVIK BUS ZONES AND

therefore bikers can expect to kindly give

The regular buses run between

ROUTES

up their space and wait for the next bus.

with night buses running a few times

There are no zones for taking buses in

ARE PETS ALLOWED ON THE BUS?

throughout the wee hours of the morning.

Reykjavik; there’s just one standard fare.

For exact times, see the bus route

Strætó’s network consists of 27 routes

Strætó welcomes pets, but all furry

timetables.

in Reykjavik and 21 additional routes

friends must enter through the back door

throughout the country. You can plan and

of the bus and stay in the back during the

HOW MUCH DOES A STRÆTÓ BUST

map your trip by simply putting in a start

ride. Pets are not allowed during peak

TICKET COST IN REJKJAVIK?

and end point on the Strætó website. All

hours (between 7 – 9 am and 3 – 6 pm)

approximately 6:30 am and midnight,


Iceland

due to passengers with allergies. Dogs

TRANSPORTATION TIPS

must be on a tight leash or in a secure bag or carrier. IS THERE A RAILWAY SYSTEM IN

different world than the depressing vibe Hlemmur had for decades prior to the

There’s free WIFI on the bus.

welcomed transformation in 2017! Go get

Schedules tend to be minimized on

a bite or a drink.

holidays.

REYKJAVIK? Double check your scheduled route when There is currently no railway system in

traveling at night and weekends.

Reykjavik. A light railway system has been proposed and the municipality is

There’s a Strætó route from Keflavik

now exploring this option.

International Airport to Reykjavik.

WHAT ARE THE OTHER FORMS

There’s no fee for children under 6 yrs

OF PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION IN

old.

REYKJAVIK? There’s a discounted fee for children 6 – Strætó is the main form of public

17 years old, disabled, and elderly people

transportation in Reykjavik. There are also

(over 67 yrs old).

taxis available, as well as private coach lines.

A BIT OF FUN The former main Strætó terminal, Hlemmur, has been repurposed as a gourmet food hall with a variety of market-driven vendors. It’s an entirely

95


THIS FALL IN REYKJAVIK


Iceland

SEPT 1

Sept 5-7

collaboration with RIKK, Institute for

TANGO PRACTICA AT SÓLON

OKTÓBERFEST SHÍ 2019

Gender, Equality and Difference at the

BISTRO

University of Iceland. Free of charge and Októberfest is a three day musical feast,

registration is encouraged to secure a

Master the art of tango dancing on

celebrating its 17th year. The lineup is

spot.

a Sunday afternoon, and with free

only the biggest and most vibrant musical

admission, you can easily drop some

talent Iceland has to offer, including

krónas on a beverage or two. Come with

Herra Hnetusmjör, Friðrik Dór Auður, Jón

SEPT 18

a friend or possibly meet your tango

Jónsson, GDRN and Vök, to name a few.

OPENING AT KLING & BANG

SEPT 12

The opening of the exhibition “Mother

SEASONAL HARVEST PRESERVED

& Child” by A Kassen begins at 5

partner there. This charming event is hosted by Snorri Sigfús Birgisson. SEPT 2 OLD HARBOR BREWERY TOUR

pm at Kling & Bang. A Kassen is the Root vegetables, cucumbers, tomatoes

Copenhagen-based artistic collective,

and other delicious harvests will be

offering a conceptual approach ranging

Explore the vibrancy of the repurposed

preserved for the coming winter as

from site-specific and performance-based

Old Harbor area, with a tour of a local

pickled goods and chutney. We’re excited

installations, photography and sculpture.

favorite craft brewery. Pay what you want

about this culinary fun and particularly

for the tour and enjoy great deals at the

about all the goods we get to bring home

SEPT 19–22

bar. Follow Me In Iceland are known for

with us, yum!

CRAZY CULTURE

An ideal afternoon to enjoy folk tales and

SEPT 12-15

Crazy Culture is an energetic festival

craft beer toasts.

EXTREME CHILL FESTIVAL

filled with creation of an eclectic group of

their high quality food and beverage tours.

local artists. Taking over Hverfisgata, all SEPT 3

Extreme Chill has never been this large,

the way towards the harbor, the festival

BRUUN RASMUSSEN ART

taking up four main venues in central

is filled with music, dance, visual art,

VALUATION AT NORDIC HOUSE

Reykjavík.

stand-up and crazy cultural fun. We’re not

A four-day eclectic music festival

missing out on this one!

Do you have a piece of art, a book or

featuring local and foreign musicians of

coins and stamps that you’d like to know

all ages, with diverse backgrounds uniting

SEPT 25

its worth? Bring it to Nordic House and

under the inspiration of Icelandic nature.

OPEN MIC NIGHT AT THE SECRET CELLAR

meet Bruun Rasmussen, you’ll never know its worth by guessing. For larger

SEPT 14

objects bring a photo to learn the value

REYKJAVÍK FOOD FESTIVAL

If your intention is to grab attention with

of your treasure for a possible future

With all the new Icelandic restaurants

your wicked humor, there’s no time like

auction.

Reyljavik has to offer, how do you decide

the present and location like The Secret

where to have your next meal? Reykjavík

Cellar in Reykjavik. This event is all about

SEPT 4–8

Food Festival rounds up rich and tasty

pushing the boundaries and trusting your

REYKJAVIK JAZZ FESTIVAL

bites across town, curated for passionate

own storytelling and humor. All sets must

foodies to eat their way across town in a

be in English.

Reykjavik Jazz Festival has been

day. SEPT 29

held annually since 1990, every year presenting the strongest local talent as

SEPT 17

well as prominent international guests.

ME TOO – MOVING FORWARD

RE-DESIGNS CLOTHING 66°NORTH 66°NORÐUR (66°NORTH) collaborated

Focusing on modern original jazz including nordic jazz, avant garde, as well as

Join Reykjavík for a powerful Nordic

with Berg Gudnason to refresh, recycle,

something for kids and the non-jazzer.

conference, covering the impact and

and refurbish designs, resulting in hip and

afterlife of the #MeToo movement. This

lively patterns and colors. This limited

conference is a part of the Icelandic

collection can be viewed online and will

Presidency of the Nordic Council of

be sold in the Flagship store on this day,

Ministers in 2019 and is organised in

starting at 5:00 PM. 97


OCT 1

collaborates with visual artists, theatre

OCT 13

FAR FEST AFRÍKA REYKJAVÍK

groups and musicians encouraging

TEDXREYKJAVÍK TIME OF CHANGE

disabled artists to blend into the art scene Held every year for the past 10 years in

and be accepted as “working artists” vs

TEDxReykjavík is celebrating their

October in Reykjavík, celebrating African

“disabled artists”.

10th Anniversary this autumn with an

Music, Dance and Culture to the Icelandic

impressive lineup of speakers. The

people. FAR offers African-Icelanders a

OCT 7

theme of this soulful event is Times of

platform to enjoy and marry their culture

THE CRAFT OF DUMPLINGS AT

Change – Celebrating X Years of Ideas.

with Nordic collaborations. Born to inspire

SALT ELDHÚS

The speakers are given a wide range

music and dance education through grade schools and senior citizens.

of subjects, including mental health, Wouldn’t you love to learn how to to

environmental issues, language and

whisk up savory dumplings in a jiffy?

important social issues in Iceland and

OCT 3

Master the craft of dumpling making

around the world. There will be coffee

HAPPILY NEVER AFTER – BIO

with Kunsang Tsering, owner of the

and refreshments during the event, and

PARADIS

locally adored ramen eatery in the

Reykjavík’s most gourmet food trucks will

Harbor District. You’ll learn how to

be waiting on-site cooking up delicious

A brand new and anticipated Icelandic

make Japaneese gyoza, Korean mandu,

lunches for everyone. This will be a

TV series about co-parenting. We get to

Chinese dumplings, Tibetan momo, and

memorable one!

know Karen, a 38-year-old mother and

some kimchi on the side. A time not lost

couples therapist, when her life takes

but gained – everyone loves dumplings!

OCT 15-20

a quick turn for the worse due to her

From 5 – 8:30 pm.

NORDIC COUNCIL FILM PRIZE 2019

single and anxiously dealing with all that

OCT 11

Expect nothing less than to be wowed

comes with sharing custody of her three

REYKJAVIK KABARETT AT THE

and artistically moved as you view the

children. The series are screened in

NATIONAL THEATRE CELLAR

five Nordic films one by one. These

husband’s infidelity. She finds herself

collaboration with RÚV, showcasing two

coveted five feature length films have

episodes at RIFF. Written, directed and

A mix of burlesque and vaudeville,

been selected and nominated for the

produced by Nanna Kristín Magnúsdóttir.

each member of the Reykjavík Kabarett

Nordic Council Film Prize 2019. And will

brings different things to the table. This

be featured in Bíó Paradís October 15th

OCT 4

collective cabaret is packed with the ideal

through 20th during special viewings

SOFAR SOUNDS REYKJAVIK

mix of burlesque, music and magic – all in

collaborated with Nordisk Film og TV

SHOW #35

order to guarantee you a fabulous evening

Fond.

filled with wicked laughter. Keep in mind Excited to be back after the summer

that it gets a bit saucy, so if your friends

OCT 18

break sharing a freshly curated evening

are sensitive to humorous sexuality, this

CONCERT OF THE CENTURY AT

with you. Sofar is an artistically healthy

might not be their entertainment.

HASKOLABIO

more than 200,000 artists at different

OCT 12

The concert of the century is packed with

times in their careers. Feel free to share

HAPPY HOUR WITH UKULELE AT

musicians and bands that were at their

a few words on who you are and why’re

HARD ROCK CAFE

peak around the millennium. Most are still

community dedicated to connecting with

you’re interested in this life event as you

working musicians today and are coming Ukulellurnar, or Ukulele, are celebrating

together to celebrate each other and

their one year anniversary with a happy

their loyal audience. The first half of the

OCT 5

hour at Hard Rock Cafe. This wonderful

function will cover ballads and the second

ART WITHOUT BORDERS FESTIVAL

band was born from a group of women

half is left for going bananas with beloved

OPENING

all singing in a gay choir who wanted

dance hits. Affordable ticket price at ISK

to enrich their musical experiences. All

3990.

RSVP – they like that kinda thing.

Enhancing cultural equality and diversity

heartfelt and positive vibes for anyone

by creating a professional platform and

and everyone. Tickets are only ISK 1500

opportunities for disabled artists. Highly

and will be sold at the door. From 5 – 7.

appreciated by the locals this festival


Iceland

OCT 23

is work he not only captures the anatomy

NOV 12

FORGET-ME-NOT: POEMS

of his subjects but places emphasis on

JAZZ AT SALURINN: MILES

AND SONGS BY WOMEN AT

movement and the rhythm of movement.

OKAZAKI

NOV 6-9

New York based guitarist, Miles Okazaki,

ICELAND AIRWAVES 2019

has gotten much praise for his 6 CD

KJARVALSSTADIR In a nostalgic setting at Kjarvalstadir, students from the Department of Music

release of compositions by Thelonious

perform music that revolves around love

Iceland Airwaves is the world’s most

Monk. He is touring solo guitar, playing at

and beauty, vocally. A cozy and sincere

northerly music showcase and industry

venues such as the Berlin Jazz Festival,

concert that is part of the series Gleym-

festival, situated halfway between North

Sarajevo Jazz Festival and Bimhuis in

mér-ei meaning Forget-Me-Not. Hosted in

America and Europe. Every year Reykjavík

Amsterdam.

collaboration with Reykjavík Art Museum,

comes alive with music and for four

this lunch concert.

nights in November; music fills every

NOV 17

corner of the city and large internationally

SONGWRITER NIGHTS

OCT 25-26

renowned acts share a stage with up and

HIST OG – RELEASE PARTY

coming talent from all over the world.

Guakarinn is now offering songwriters

For more information including lineup,

both experienced and new artists the

A mix of introverted and slow-heaving

travel packages and tickets go to www.

opportunity and venue to get their music

electronica, improvised music and twitchy

icelandairwaves.is

heard and share it with other music lovers

new age might just be what the doctor

and musicians once a month!

ordered. Hist Og was founded in 2017

NOV 9

For those that are interested in

to compose and perform new music

AIRWAVES OFF-VENUE:

performing they can contact me (Diljá

for Sigur Rós’ Norður og Niður festival.

CHILDREN’S AIRWAVES

Sævarsdóttir) via Songwriters In Iceland!

transformed via sensational sounds on

Concerts, drum beats, disco, face

NOV 20

their first album, released last month by

painting, concerts and bubbly moods for

PARTY KARAOKE

Reykjavík Record Shop.

the whole family in this dance and concert

Their unique backgrounds are collectively

party of the century. Free event. OCT 31

The karaoke sisters DJ Dóra Júlía & Helga Margrét are the host of party karaoke in

POWER TOOLS PUMPKIN

NOV 10

the Basement. They combine they’re love

CARVING

POST-ICELAND AIRWAVES CLEAN

of music, fun and joy of live in a night

UP

of fabulous entertainment that starts at

We say we don’t celebrate Halloween in

21.00. Everybody is welcome and all that

Iceland, but somehow it has influenced

Iceland Airwaves is partnering up

retailers and kids to make it their own

with SEEDS Iceland in a joint effort to

scary-Ice-fest. It most definitely has

minimise our impact on the environment.

NOV 21-25

something to do with candy and carving

Volunteers from SEEDS Iceland will be

CRAFTS AND DESIGN

pumpkins. If you’re in on the idea join

helping with picking up litter, sorting and

us for magical power tool carving over

recycling, and everyone is welcome to

The annual CRAFTS & DESIGN fair will

drinks and candy, with a side of a horror

join. The event will start at 1pm from Hard

be held in Reykjavík City Hall. The variety

movie. Make sure to reserve your seat

Rock Café. Look for SEEDS volunteers

of artists and arts will be the first thing

and pumpkin.

at the entrance door. Bring warm and

you see, as there are more than 55 artists

waterproof clothes, reusable gloves and

that will be there this year. This will be the

NOV 2-13

bins/containers/reusable bags to pick up

perfect place to get to know local artists

RÆTUR / ROOTS ART EXHIBITION

the trash and sort it out.

and their works.

brave the stage get a fun prize.

Úlfar Örn will be exhibiting figurative works from the year 2019, paintings and silk prints. Úlfar Örn has been working with his figurative imagery for many years, both in drawings and paintings. In

99


NOV 21-23 THE SWAN LAKE The Swan Lake is one of the most popular ballets and belongs to the international standard repertoire of the classical ballet. In spite of all, this ballet is a brilliant work of a brilliant composer Tchaikovsky andremains already since centuries a public magnet. The choreographer of the original production was Julius Reisinger. The ballet was premiered by the Bolshoi Ballet on 4 March 1877 at the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow. Although it is presented in many different versions, most ballet companies base their stagings both choreographically and musically on the 1895 revival of Marius Petipa and Lev Ivanov, first staged for the Imperial Ballet on 15 January 1895, at the Mariinsky Theatre in St. Petersburg. NOV 28 THE REYKJAVĂ?K BEER TOUR Icelandic beer, local beer history, the best bars in Reykjavik, micro breweries and exploring our beautiful Reykjavik with a fun and knowledgable local guide: If you are interested in any of the above, you are in luck because this tour is for you. A few highlights include a visit to four of the most interesting beer venues in Reykjavik, tasting over 10 amazing Icelandic beers, and exploring Reykjavik with a knowledgable local beer expert.


HILDUR YEOMAN FO R THE UNEXPECT ED


Iceland

ARCHITECTURE OF ICELAND a glimpse into some of our favourite places

Until the late nineteenth century,

landscapes. The country, which only

of basalt formations, was a collaboration

Scandinavia was considered an

became fully independent from Denmark

between Henning Larsen Architects of

architectural lightweight, as its castles,

in 1944, did not have its own native-born

Copenhagen and Danish-Icelandic artist

cathedrals, and other major buildings

trained architects until the twentieth

Ólafur Elíasson. Such Scandinavian

were usually built in historical styles

century.

architectural cross-fertilizations are

borrowed from abroad. Most other

common, other examples include a

buildings were vernacular wooden, stone,

The first one of note, who is credited with

pedestrian bridge in Bergen, Norway

and brick structures constructed by those

single-handedly defining a national style,

by Studio Granda and a Norwegian

without formal architectural training.

was state architect Guðjón Samúelsson.

engineering firm that opened last year.

Although unheralded, they offered

Both his National Theater, completed

practical solutions to problems specific to

1950 though designed in the 1920s, and

the far north, including maximizing natural

Hallgrímskirkja, the country’s largest

light and heat during cold winter days.

church constructed in phases from the 1930s through 1980s, were built in

Scandinavia’s architectural standing

concrete but mimic the basalt lava rock

began to change in the early twentieth

cliff columns that are a national treasure.

century as architects rejected historicism and instead blended new international

Modern notable buildings include

styles and technological advances with

Reykjavik City Hall (1992) and

elements from the vernacular traditions.

the Supreme Court (1996), both by married team Margrét Harðardóttir and

This set the stage for what became

Steve Christer of Studio Granda, which

the defining traits of Scandi buildings:

feature an assortment of facade materials

designs that are functional, attractive in

including basalt.

a minimalist way, and in balance with nature. At the same time, architects

REYKJAVIK CITY HALL, 1992 BY

played a role in the emergence of the

STUDIO GRANDA

region’s social welfare model, which required quality housing for all and public

Of more recent vintage, the Harpa

buildings for the common good.

concert and conference hall of 2011,

Icelandic architecture draws heavily

with its colored glass and metal frame

on the island’s breathtaking natural

exterior inspired by the crystalline texture 103


FINL


AND


Finland

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW all the essential information for your trip to Finland

PASSPORT VALIDITY

LANGUAGE

WEATHER

There are three official languages in

39-48°F in October with an average of a

Finland. Finnish and Swedish are both

32% chance of precipitation.

Recommend at least six months beyond your period of stay BLANK PASSPORT PAGES

official languages in Finland. The third

Two pages per stamp

language in Finland is Sami, spoken

ELECTRICAL OUTLETS

in Lapland by less than 0.5% of the TOURIST VISA REQUIRED

population. But don’t worry, people in

Electrical outlets are the same as the rest

Not required

Finland speak English very well, so you

of Europe, with two round plugs. You just

won’t have a language problem in Finland.

need an adapter for your U.S. electronics.

None

CURRENCY

TRANSPORTATION

CURRENCY RESTRICTIONS

In Finland, the currency is the Euro, which

Public transportation in Finland is great.

FOR ENTRY

comes in several bills from 500 Euros to

Trains and buses go all over the country.

10,000 Euros (or equivalent)

5 Euros. Then there are the Euro coins,

In the cities, public transport is also easy

VACCINATIONS

which come in 2 and 1 Euro, plus 50

to use, and covers most areas of the

CURRENCY RESTRICTIONS

cents, 20 cents, 10 cents and 5 cents.

cities. You can also use ferries in Finland

FOR EXIT

In Finland, they don’t use the two-cent

to get to some of the island areas. Trains

10,000 Euros (or equivalent)

or one-cent Euro pieces, so if your bill is

and buses make for easy day trips all over

98-cents, it will just be rounded up to one

Finland. You can also buy day passes for

Euro. You can also use your credit card

transportation, so that you can easily hop

all over Finland, just make sure you have

on or hop off the trams and trains all day.

a PIN as some machines require you to enter a PIN. You can even pay with your phone at some places in Finland.

107


TRANSPORTATION GUIDE how to use public transportation in Helsinki

METRO

Buses from Espoo arrive at Kamppi bus

Tickets can be purchased from Helsinki

terminal. For airport buses, the Finnair

Region Tourist Information inside Helsinki

The metro line in stretches from Vuosaari

City Bus operates between Helsinki

Airport, as well as from R-Kiosks and

and Mellunmäki in east-Helsinki, via

Airport (Terminal 1 platform 11, Terminal

many other sales outlets throughout

Helsinki city centre to Matinkylä in

2 platform 10) and the Central Railway

the city. Tickets cannot be purchased on

Espoo. The travel time from Matinkylä to

Station at the city centre (Elielinaukio,

commuter trains. Commuter trains and

Mellunmäki, (the world’s northernmost

platform 30) every 20 minutes and takes

other public transport are included in the

metro station) or Vuosaari in Helsinki

around 30 minutes. A single ticket from

price of the Helsinki Card.

is approximately 39 min. Metro is a

the driver costs EURO6.70. Both cash and

great way to get from the city centre

credit cards are accepted.

out into the nature: From the Kulosaari

Bus 615 (“Lentoasema-Rautatientori”)

metro station you can get to Kivinokka

runs between the airport and the Central

Trams are the main mode of public

and Mustikkamaa, from the Vuosaari

Railway Station. The trip takes around

transport in the inner city. Tram 2/3

metro station you can get to the Uutela

45 minutes. A regional ticket can be

(former 3T/3B) is regarded as the

recreational area, from the Herttoniemi

purchased from a ticket machine (EURO5)

sightseeing tram in Helsinki, a way to

metro station you can get to the Viikki

or from the driver with cash (EURO5.50).

travel around among the locals. But it

nature reserve.

Bus 415N operates at night.

isn’t the only route that offers lots of

TRAM

interesting things to see and do along TRAIN

the way.

be purchased from ticket machines at the

Commuter trains are a convenient way

For all those interested in architecture,

metro stations, before you go down the

to get to Pasila, for example, where

route number 4 can especially be

escalators. Public transport day tickets are

Hartwall Arena and the Messukeskus

recommended. Everyone interested in

also valid at the metro.

Expo and Convention Centre are located.

design, art and culinary culture should hop

You can also get to the tranquillity of

on tram number 6. It is recommended to

Rhododendron Park (Alppiruusupuisto)

carry along a public transportation route

From the Rastila metro station you can get to Kallahdenniemi. Metro tickets can

BUS

in Haaga very quickly by commuter train

map to help you locate all the stops and

Helsinki Region Transport (HRT) operates

(A, E, U or P). You can purchase a single

sights.

buses throughout the region. Internal

ticket from a ticket machine. You can also

and regional bus lines and timetables

purchase day tickets valid for 1 to 7 days

in the Helsinki metropolitan area are

on all forms of public transport within

available in the HSL Journey Planner.

Helsinki Region.

FERRY The municipal ferry operates between


Finland

the Market Square and the Suomenlinna

locals and visitors. A popular route is

Sea Fortress all year round. A special

“Baana” in the center of Helsinki, built

Suomenlinna ticket is valid for 12 hours

along a stretch of disused railway line, it

and costs EURO5. Tickets can be

is a pedestrian and cycling corridor that

purchased from a ticket machine at the

is equally popular among commuters

Market Square. Public transportation

on bike, dog owners on foot and young

tickets as well as the Helsinki cards are

people on skateboards. Baana forms part

valid on the ferry.

of a 1200-kilometre network of bike paths in Helsinki that makes it easy to access

JT line ferries operate during summer

all parts of the city on two wheels, from

season from the Market Square to Lonna,

the Keskuspuisto “Central Park” to the

Vallisaari and Suomenlinna Sea Fortress,

north to the ferry harbours to the south,

and from Merisatama and Ruoholahti to

and from the bustling city centre to the

Pihlajasaari. Further information on tickets

quiet fields and forests in the surrounding

and schedules can be found at JT Line’s

countryside – even to the islands of the

website. A ferry to Isosaari operates

archipelago.

between the Market Square and the island both during winter and summer

You can either rent a bike or use city

season. For further information, check out

bikes, shared-use bicycles that can be

visitisosaari.fi.

borrowed for a fee by anyone in central Helsinki, residents and visitors alike. City

BIKE

bikes are shared-use bicycles that can be borrowed for a fee by anyone in Helsinki

Getting around Helsinki by bicycle is a

and Espoo, residents and visitors alike.

popular and convenient way for both

109


THIS FALL IN HELSINKI


Finland

SEPT 5-15

SEPT 7-8

women who love to cycle. The goal is

HELSINKI DESIGN WEEK

SEPTEMBER’S VEGAN BRUNCHES

to cycle 100 km in one day through the

AT KLAUS K HOTEL

cooperation of female athletes around the world.

Having been the world design capital in 2012, Helsinki is a major player in

Klaus K is a gorgeous Art Nouveau hotel

international design. As such, you would

on the ritzy Bulevardi, and it regularly

SEPT 15

expect a yearly design week! This year

offers brunches. On the 7th and 8th of

HELSINKI PUPPY PARADE

you can enjoy exhibitions, conferences,

September the brunch is vegan. The cost

SEPTEMBER

workshops, shopping, and more centred

is 35 EURO, and table reservations are

around the theme “learning climate”.

recommended.

Helsinki’s cutest parade is taking place for the ninth time this September! Dogs of

Almost 200 independent events fill the programme, and admission prices vary.

SEPT 7

all ages, sizes, and breeds are welcome

Many events are free.

TOUGH VIKING HELSINKI

to take part in the parade. Gather in

SEPT 6

Tough Viking is the Nordics’ biggest

Kaivopuisto) to see the dogs walk the

SOME LIKE IT HOT AT PUOTILAN

obstance course race. Its 10km course

route, then stick around afterwards to

KARTANO

comes to Helsinki on 7th September,

hang out with them and their owners!

presenting a challenge to anyone who’s

Free event.

Meripuisto (right next to the famous

Experience the classic Marilyn Monroe

brave enough to give it a shot. Register by

film in its original 35mm format at the

05.07 for 90 EURO.

SEPT 19-20 DARE TO LEARN

lovely 18th century event space Puotilan Kartano. The pub on the premises will

SEPT 11-15

serve you drinks, and you can either bring

HABITARE

If you’re a teacher, professor, or other professional in pedagogy, Dare to Learn

a blanket to lounge on or come early and grab a seat. Film starts at 21.00. Free

Habitare is Finland’s biggest interior

is a place you should be. The programme

event.

design event, and it brings new

consists of 40% keynote speeches and

perspectives to the world of furniture

60% active co-creation, giving visitors the

SEPT 7-8

and decor every year. 2019’s theme is

opportunity to participate in shaping the

DESIGN MARKET – HELSINKI

“Mindspaces”: an exploration of how

future of learning. One-day public sector

DESIGN WEEK

materials, colours, textures, and other

tickets are 115 EURO, two-day tickets are

chosen aspects of a design affect our

150 EURO

Helsinki Design Week shows up at

state of mind. Adult tickets are 16-17

Kaapelitehdas in the form of a market.

EURO.

SEPT 21 OTANIEMI NIGHT OF ARTS

There will be areas specialised in prints, vinyl records, and children’s products. The

SEPT 12

market will reflect the theme of Helsinki

DATA-DRIVEN DESIGN DAY

Aalto University is celebrating its Student Union’s tenth anniversary, and its first

Design Week 2019, which is “learning climate”. Over 200 vendors will be in

As part of Helsinki Design Week, this

big event is Otaniemi Night of Arts.

attendance. Free event.

event will educate audiences about the

There will be many art and music events

use of data in design. This year’s theme is

organised by the Aalto community, as well

SEPT 7-8

“Augmented Creativity”. Both Finnish and

as visitors such as singer Mira Luoti and

PUKKISAARI IRON AGE MARKET

international speakers will be present to

Puppet Theatre Sampo. Free event.

share their knowledge and experiences. Fans of historical re-enactments will

Tickets are 99EURO.

SEPT 26 LINOCUT BEGINNERS WORKSHOP

love this event on Pukkisaari, an island southeast of mainland Helsinki. Visitors

SEPT 14

can watch battle re-enactments, buy

RAPHA WOMEN’S 100 HELSINKI:

“Craft gym” Verstas247 hosts several

artisan crafts, and eat delicious foods. You

POWERED BY CANYON

workshops and classes, including this introduction to linocut printing. The theme

can also sign up to participate yourself if you have something to offer! Free event.

Gym and sports equipment shop

of this 3-hour workshop is plants and

Triathalon Corner is hosting an event for

botanicals. 111


SEPT 27-28

OCT 5

OCT 12-13

JUURI NYT URBAN FOLK FESTIVAL

YET VOL. 3

RETRO & VINTAGE DESIGN EXPO

Anyone interested in northern European

On October’s first weekend, head to

Finnish, Swedish, Estonian, and Danish

folk music should make sure to catch

Ääniwalli to hear music from a nine-strong

retro goods from the 1920s-1980s are

some concerts at this festival! The

lineup of performers. There will be a wild

on display by over 80 vendors in this

concerts take place in Kapsäkki theatre

mix of power pop, psychedic rock, garage

expo. Lovers of vintage and retro can pick

and Bistro K restaurant, located in the

rock, and punk. The night will be rounded

up home decor, ceramics, glassware,

artsy Sörnäinen neighbourhood. Brunch

out by seven DJs spinning into the night.

clothing, accessories, textiles, paper

concerts are free, a day ticket (for other

Tickets are between 22 EURO,50-25

goods, LPs, and more. Adult tickets are

concerts) is 35 EURO, a two-day ticket is

EURO.

10 EURO, and those under 18 are free!

OCT 5

OCT 13

SEPT 28-29

KÄSITYÖTARVIKEKIRPPIS

PAKANALLISET SYYSMESSUT

VEGEMESSUT

(HANDICRAFT MATERIALS FLEA

(PAGAN AUTUMN FESTIVAL)

55EURO.

MARKET) Vegemessut are the biggest vegan food

The theme for this festival is “inhabitants

festival in the Nordics. This is their second

Crafters can buy inexpensive new

of the Finnish forest”, including those

event in Helsinki this year, and it’s once

supplies at this flea market in Helsinki’s

which originate from fantasy and

again taking place in Kaapelitehdas (Cable

Kumpula neighbourhood. If you’re a

mythology. In addition to exhibitors selling

Factory). Vegemessut aim to make vegan

crafter with an overflowing supply drawer,

their art, jewellery, and other mystical

eating easily approachable to everyone.

you can sign up to sell your own as well

objects, the festival offers workshops,

Tickets are 10EURO (pre-bought) or

for a fee of 10. There will also be a cafe at

lectures, and walk-in Pagan themed

12EURO (at door).

the event.

tattoos. Tickets are 7 EURO if bought early, or 10() at the door.

OCT 2-5

OCT 6

FIERCE

KATTILAHALLIN KIRPPIS

OCT 17

This contemporary circus performance

(KATTIHALLI FLEA MARKET)

HOMES FOR ALL TORCH LIGHT WALK

explores two character’s search for each other after a missed connection.

Kattilahalli Flea Market is the largest

The story is told through acrobatics

communal flea market in Helsinki,

The Association for Social Justice in

and dance, which are complemented

bringing together 140 sellers this

Helsinki believes that everyone has the

by dreamlike sound and video art. The

time around. You can find clothing,

right to a roof over their heads. Join them

performance is at Caisa, one of the city

housewares, toys, and possibly some

for a peaceful march through northeastern

of Helsinki’s cultural centers. Tickets are

unexpected treasures. This time there

Helsinki to help them spread this

10EURO.

will be an extra reason to drop by: Ali-Ollin

message! They will provide torches and

Alpakktila is bringing by some real live

placards, but you can also bring your own.

OCT 4-6

alpacas! Free event.

SUPERWOOD FESTIVAL

OCT 18 OCT 10

MIRA LUOTI LIVE

Finnish fashion designer Ivana Helsinki

VALOKARNEVAALI

is the creative force behind the annual

LINNANMÄESSÄ (LIGHT CARNIVAL

Finnish pop artist Mira Luoti will take over

Superwood Festival. The urban music and

AT LINNANMÄKI)

legendary music club Tavastia to promote

art festival has a lineup of 30+ musicians,

her upcoming album. Be one of the first

art installations, vegetarian food, and 20

As the nights start to get longer and

to hear her new music ahead of the

minute talks by researchers. Tickets range

darker, amusement park Linnanmäki lights

album’s autumn release! Tickets are 18

from 32-82 EURO.

up brighter than ever. Rides, boardwalk

EURO online, or 20 EURO at the door.

attractions, and much more in the park will be decked out in lights of many colours. Entrance to the park is free, ride tickets are purchased separately.


Finland

OCT 23-27

NOV 2-3

NOV 8

CINEMAISSI FILM FESTIVAL

ANGAMARDANA IN HELSINKI

NEW AGE: FRANK FRANK FRANK & ELIA

Cinemaissi Film Festival is returning to

Yoga school Shanti brings angamardana,

Helsinki after two years, bringing with

a fitness system designed to help the

Cultural centre Korjaamo opens its

it a selection of films from all over Latin

whole body, to Helsinki. Angamardana

doors this day to fans of pop and violin

America. Themes represented include

can benefit your strength, aerobic

music. Swedish and Finnish trio Frank

women on screen, LGBTQ+ rights,

ability, and stamina with no need for any

Frank Frank play powerful pop, and Elia

Indigenous cultures, and social rights.

exercise equipment. The two-day class is

(Elias Riipinen) combines classical and

Tickets to individual screenings are 9,50

195 EURO.

electronic genres with their music. Tickets

EURO.

start at 12 EURO. NOV 3

OCT 24-27

TALVIVAATEVAIHTAJAISET

NOV 9-10

HELSINGIN KIRJAMESSUT

AIKUISILLE (WINTER CLOTHING

KORJAAMO DESIGN MARKET

(HELSINKI BOOK FAIR)

SWAP FOR ADULTS)

This fair fills Helsinki’s largest convention

Cultural organisation Kallion

with over 50 vendors selling sustainable

venue with lovers of literature, authors,

Kulttuuriverkosto regularly organises

Finnish design products. You can find

and many other industry professionals.

swap meets such as this one. Bring some

jewellery and accessories, cosmetics,

There are more than 1000 total speakers

of your old winter clothing which is still in

home goods, and other beautiful objects.

and 300 booksellers and publishers at the

good condition and exchange it for new

Free entry.

event! 2019’s fair themes are freedom

(to you!) clothing. Any leftover clothing

of speech, songwriting, and American

will be donated to assist the homeless

NOV 9

literature and culture. Adult tickets are

and impoverished. Free event.

OYSTER FESTIVAL

Cultural centre Korjaamo will be filled

16-17. NOV 6

Find out who Finland’s fastest oyster

OCT 26

NAISTEN HEMMOTTELUPÄIVÄT

shucker is at the Holiday Bar! The winner

HELSINKI HALLOWEEN RUN

YRJÖNKADUN UIMAHALLISSA

will be crowned Finnish Champion

(WOMEN’S PAMPERING DAYS AT

2019. Restaurant teams will also

YRJÖNKATU SWIMMING HALL)

compete against each other. Everyone

Even when you’re dressed like a skeleton, a witch, a fairy, or some other fantastical

in attendance can practice their oyster

thing, you might want to run! If you

One of Helsinki’s central swimming halls

shucking with 1 oysters and other menu

find yourself in that situation close to

is hosting pampering days for ladies

items.

Halloween, you can take part in Helsinki’s

with an array of available services. In

annual Halloween run. The event has both

addition to the swimming itself, you can

NOV 13

5k and 10k trails.

also get spa treatments such as Indian

MARISKA

head massages and facials. Light spa OCT 30

treatments are 7 EURO each, entrance to

Finnish rapper Mariska shows that she’s

TANGERINE DREAM + HIRO KONE

swimming hall is 5,50 EURO.

still got what it takes with her long-

Trailblazing electronic music giants

NOV 7

Finnish tour to promote the new album

Tangerine Dream are making at stop at

COLLABORATIVE FEMINIST

is making its first Helsinki area stop in

Helsinki’s The Circus club. The show is

MANIFESTO WORKSHOP

Sellosali, located just outside of the city in

awaited new album, released 18.10. Her

a part of their “16 Steps – Random &

Espoo. Tickets are 17,50 EURO online or

Revision 2019” tour. Tangerine Dream

Aalto University’s group Aalto Student

have made an indelible mark on the

Intersectional Feminists (ASIF) wants the

electronic music scene over their 50-year

public’s help to craft a document outlining

career. The band is supported by NYC

the beliefs and ideas of intersectional

musician Hiro Kone. Tickets are 45,50.

feminists. To participate, register by

19,50 EURO at the door.

emailing the organiser at asif.aalto@gmail. com. Free event.

113


NOV 15

NOV 24

KALLIOLAND

LUKEMATTOMIEN KIRJOJEN TORI (MARKET OF UNREAD BOOKS)

Kalliolan setlementtitalo (Kalliola Settlement House) has stood in the same

After enjoying Kallioland earlier

spot for 100 years, and this November it

in November, head to Kalliolan

is celebrating by giving positive vibes back

setlementtitalo for this book fair. You

to the community. Kallioland is filled with

can bring up to five fiction books and

empowering workshops, lectures, and

exchange them for the same amount of

music. The event is a safe space and is

new reading material! Free event.

free for everyone. ONGOING IN NOVEMBER NOV 21-22 SLUSH

MAAILMALTA LÖYSIN ITSENI (I FOUND MYSELF AROUND THE

Right as the autumn rain is turning into

WORLD)

actual slush, Helsinki once again hosts the huge start-up event with the same

This exhibition is a collection of the work

name. Slush 2019 will fill Messukeskus

of Helene Schjerfbeck, one of Finland’s

(fair centre) with 4,000 startups, 2,000

most successful artists. The exhibition

investors, and 700 journalists to meet up

focuses on Schjerfbeck’s travels around

and listen to expert talks. Tickets start at

Europe and the inspiration she found

395 EURO for startups.

during those travels. The 130+ works include landscapes, still lifes, and

NOV 22-24

portraits, including 16 self portraits. On

NUORTEN CHOPIN 2018 (YOUNG

until 26th January 2020.

CHOPIN 2019) EDGAR ALLAN POE 210 YEARS The Chopin Society of Finland and the Helsinki Conservatory are bringing a

Icon of horror and crime writing Edgar

taste of classical music to the city. The

Allan Poe left an inescapable mark on

concerts, performed on Friday and

the field of entertainment. His works

Saturday, will be played by gifted young

have been adapted into visual media for

musicians under age 20 from Finnish

years, including the six films that make

schools of music. Ticket prices TBA.

up this event. All six films have multiple showings at Kino Regina. Tickets are 7,50

NOV 23-24

EURO and the showings run until 12th

XMAS DESIGN MARKET WEEGEE

November.

Just outside of Helsinki in Espoo’s Tapiola neighbourhood is WeeGee Exhibition Centre. At the end of November they’re hosting a holiday marketplace with 50 design companies and festive workshops. Entrance to WeeGee’s museums will be free all weekend.


SHADESHARES SHA RE T HE GO O D


FIVE FUN DAY TRIPS IN HELSINKI check out our five favourite day trips from the capital

PORVOO

TURKU/ÅBO

country with plenty to discover. And

This charming city of iconic red wooden

Start your exploration with the medieval

its small size and inexpensive public

houses is definitely worth a visit for

Turku Cathedral, one of the oldest

transport make it easy to explore too –

its meandering old town with narrow

cathedrals in Finland. Then head to one

especially if you base yourself in Helsinki.

lanes and quaint shops. A hike up Iso

of the excellent restaurants along the

Check out our five favourite day trips from

Linnamäki (Castle Hill), where a medieval

charming River Aura for lunch. Continue

the capital.

Swedish castle once stood, is like walking

along the cobblestone canal path for

back into ancient times. The views are

a lovely walk (or catch bus #1) to the

spectacular and the forest is otherworldly.

medieval Turku Castle. Make sure you

Later, meander back down the hill and

save time for one of the most unique

across the Porvoonjoki River to get the

museums in Finland, the Aboa Vetus (Old

best views of the shore houses, which

Turku), which combines contemporary

were originally painted red in the late

art with the remains of six medieval

1700s to celebrate a visit from Gustav

buildings. The bus from Kamppi Station,

III, the King of Sweden. Take the bus

takes two hours 20 minutes or enjoy the

from Helsinki’s Kamppi Station or take a

river path by renting a bicycle.

From medieval castles to Moomins, and saunas to Santa, Finland is an unexpected

steamboat from Helsinki’s central harbour.


Finland

TAMPERE

ROVANIEMI, LAPLAND

TALLINN, ESTONIA

Tampere is the self-proclaimed sauna

Lapland is all about nature, so your trip

Estonia’s capital city, Tallinn, is just a

capital of the world. There’s a public

will depend on the time of year you

short hop across the Bay of Finland – and

sauna for everyone here, from lakefront

go. In winter, you can spend a fortune

getting there is half the fun. The ferry

saunas to contemporary ones. Rajaportin,

booking expensive day trips to mush

from Helsinki provides spectacular views

the oldest, is a still-in-use public sauna in

sledge huskies and see reindeer. Or,

of the scenery. A short walk from the

Finland (bring your own towel). Tampere

you can take the public Santa Express

ferry terminal takes you to Tallinn’s Old

is also known for the astonishing

bus in Rovaniemi for a few euros and do

Town, a well-preserved medieval city.

symbolist murals by Hugo Simberg in its

both things much more cheaply at the

Head to Town Hall Square for lunch at one

cathedral, and the Moomin Museum that

Santa Claus Village. Make sure you step

of the outdoor cafés, then wander up the

displays memorabilia and art from the

over the Arctic Circle while you’re there.

hill to take in the cathedral and churches.

much-loved children’s books. And don’t

Then, spend a night at a lakeside sauna

For more great views and history, visit the

leave town without trying the famous

for fantastic views of the northern lights.

15th-century artillery tower museum, Kiek

munkki (Finnish doughnuts) made at the

They’re to be visible from late September

in de Kök. Tallinn is also famous for its

Pyynikki observation tower. It’s about two

to early March, weather permitting. Take

Music Week at the end of March. Three

hours from Helsinki by train or take the

a flight with Norwegian Air or book the

ferries run from Helsinki to Tallinn and

bus in about two and a half hours.

night train to arrive in the morning.

take about 2–2hr, 30min each way.

117


FAVORITE FOOD DELIVERY IN HELSINKI see our suggestions for food delivery using the Wolt app

NEIGHBOURHOOD For pizza that’s a little different, check out Neighbourhood. Their ultra thin crust is more of a crunchy cracker-like base than a typical pizza, and the real focus is on the organic, seasonal toppings.

KIIN KIIN Kiin Kiin is the only Thai restaurant outside of Thailand to have a Michelin star, and their incredible food is something to behold. They’ve put together this special takeout menu; get out the fancy china for this one!


Finland

JAGGER Delicious fast food-style burgers, fried chicken sandwiches, crispy fries, and milkshakes. The food is greasy in just the way you want but not overly so, and available all over the city. Their veggie burger is delicious!

SOULS Souls may be mostly vegan, but their philosophy is that everyone should enjoy their food, regardless of whether they’re vegan or not. They do a mean veggie burger, as well as delicious brunch and drinks.

PASTOR TACOS Tasty tacos made by three Mexican siblings who wanted to bring a real taste of their country to Copenhagen. You can also get burritos and gringas. Expert tip: definitely get the side of refried beans with corn chips!

AMERICAN PIE COMPANY Sometimes you just need a slice of pie. This American-style pie shop serves a rotating menu of seasonal pies, as well as a few mainstays (like apple pie). They taste homebaked and the flavors are fantastic. American Pie Company also serves savory hand pies.

119


Scandi


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