NEW ENGLAND’S FOOD AND WINE MAGAZINE
MAKE THIS TONIGHT: Watermelon Pomegranate Toss p.44
A Kennebunkport p
DELICIOUS NEW RECIPES YOU’LL LOVE!
PLUS: Heirloom Tomatoes
GET MORE FLAVOR! Scan this code with your smartphone and like us on Facebook. 4
Cutting Edge New England Kitchens The Coolest Summer Soups
Departments * Summer 2014
Food + Cooking 10 INSIGHTS Chefs’ Secrets
12 HEALTHY FLAVORS
Cold Soups: Going Green for Summer
Local + Sustainable 40 SEASONAL FLAVORS Watermelon Equals Summer By Mark R. Vogel
46 FLAVOR FOCUS
Chefs + Restaurants
Tomatoes with a History By Paula Szilard
16 DINING OUT Classic Comfort and Great Chefs: A Visit to Kennebunkport By Jean Kerr
Northeast Traditions 50 COMMUNITY
In the Glass
In the Market and On a Budget By Rob Levey
22 WINE FINDS Your Wine FAQs Answered By Dan Amatuzzi
Get Inspired 52 IN THE KITCHEN WITH . . .
38 SPIRITS Poptails: Frozen Treats for Grown-Ups By P.K. Edwards
Mr. Hirshberg Goes to Washington: From Farm to Congress By Jean Kerr
54 KITCHEN DESIGN
Clarke and friends give us a peek into a few of New England’s best kitchen designs By Rob Levey
NEW DEPARTM ENT!
58 THINGS WE LOVE Grate Expectations
IN EVERY ISSUE Editor’s Letter 7 Ask the Editors 8 The Book & Blog Club 60 Recipe Index 61 Advertiser Directory 62 Next Issue Highlights 63 Roots 64
(recipe on p.36)
Features * Summer 2014 24 Her Majesty’s Chef The chef who fed Britain’s Royal Family takes us behind the palace doors.
By Mike Morin
32 Shacked Up: Lobster in the Rough New England’s quintessential crustacean and where to go to get down and dirty.
By P.K. Edwards
On our cover: Watermelon Pomegranate Toss, recipe on page 44. Photograph by Visual Cuisines, courtesy of the National Watermelon Promotion Board.
4 SUMMER 2014
Photograph by Sabra Krock courtesy of Storey Publishing.
Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder
VOLUME 4, ISSUE 3
PRESIDENT AND PUBLISHER Spencer Smith EDITOR -IN-CHIEF Jean Kerr CREATIVE DIRECTOR Candace Perreault EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Laura Tucker COPYEDITING/PROOFREADING Neal Fisher, Victoria Sheldon DESIGN AND PRODUCTION The Secret Agency NEWSSTAND DISTRIBUTION National Publisher Services, Inc. SPECIAL ACCOUNTS MANAGER Diann Sherbak ÂŠ Copyright 2014 Flavor Media Group All rights reserved. No portion of Northeast FLAVOR may be reproduced without the express written permission of the publisher.
37 Beach Avenue, Kennebunk Beach, ME (207) 967-2321 whitebarninn.com
Oceanfront Lodging, Dining & Gatherings MARINE ROOM, OCEAN TERRACE AND THE PORCH LIVE MUSIC thursday, friday & saturday 5-7 pm DINING noon - 9:00 pm
Advertising Sales Theresa Wiseman, Account Executive email@example.com 603-969-7841 Mark McGinty, Account Executive firstname.lastname@example.org 203-915-4612 Distribution & Subscriptions Northeast FLAVOR is published four times per year and is available by subscription and on newsstands throughout New England. Subscription rate for 1-year (four issues) is $15, 2-years (8 issues) is $25. Please subscribe online at www.northeastflavor.com, or send a check or money order with your full name and mailing address to: Northeast FLAVOR Subscriptions, One Government Street, Suite 1, Kittery, Maine 03904. ISSN 2324-8742 (Print) ISSN 2324-8750 (Digital) For subscription inquiries, call 207-703-2312 or email email@example.com. Digital subscriptions in formats for iPad, Android, Mac, and PC available through www.zinio.com/NortheastFlavor. Direct all inquiries to: FLAVOR Media Group LLC One Government Street, Suite 1 Kittery, Maine 03904 207-703-2312 firstname.lastname@example.org
6 SUMMER 2014
140 Ocean Ave, Kennebunkport, ME
NORTHEAST FLAVOR | Editor’s Letter
Photograph by Jerry Held
It’s a SNAP!
LIKE US ON FACEBOOK facebook.com/northeastﬂavor
FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @NortheastFlavor
HERE AT NORTHEAST FLAVOR we try to remember to count our blessings. This time of year we are grateful for the abundance of fresh food available to us, not just for the taste, but for the sensory pleasures of it: the mouth-watering smell of a bunch of basil, the crazy color palette of a crate of heirloom tomatoes, the sweet muskiness of a ripe melon, the earthy smell of carrots and the pungent aromas of onions and garlic, just begging to be sautéed in olive oil . . . well, you get the idea. You don’t have to look, or travel, too far in New England to find this sort of bounty at countless farmers’ markets and farm stands. But the USDA has identified parts of the U.S. as “food deserts.” These are places that are often short on whole food providers, especially of fresh fruits and vegetables. These areas rely heavily on convenience stores that provide primarily processed foods; those high in fats, salt, sugar and preservatives — all the things that contribute to obesity and other heath concerns. If your family is hungry, of course you buy and eat what is available to you. When we cook at our local soup kitchen we don’t always have access to whole fresh foods, but we know
Popsicles w ith
a kick, page
who to ask (and are pretty brazen about it) for a crate of bruised apples, or end of season produce that otherwise might go to waste. In this issue contributor Rob Levy explores the ways families in need can stretch their food dollars using SNAP/EBT cards in local farm markets to be able to provide the best and freshest foods for their families. Yes, shopping at your local farmers’ market can be pricey, but Rob gives us great examples of what to buy and cook even on a tight budget. It’s really a matter of thinking about food the way previous generations did — before TV dinners, and Twinkies and trans-fats. Next time you pass an “honor system” roadside cooler selling fresh eggs, or a farm stand selling zucchini or a big ripe watermelon for pennies a pound, take some home, and maybe buy some extra for your local soup kitchen. We can vouch for how much it will be appreciated. Cheers!
Jean Kerr * Editor-in-Chief editor@northeastﬂavor.com
Our fa vo Lobste rite r Shac ks, pag e 32.
NORTHEAST FLAVOR | Ask the Editors
Christine Aliouche is a business strategy and process consultant. She holds an MBA in International Marketing, a dual BA in Economics and International Affairs, as well as numerous executive level certifications from top-tier business schools, including an Export Specialist Training Certification.
Ask the Editors (almost!) Anything Grilled Tuna with Wasabi Sauce
E. Hachemi Aliouche, Ph.D., is the Acting Chairman and Associate Professor of the Hospitality Management Department, and Co-Director of the Rosenberg International Franchise Center, at the Peter T. Paul College of Business and Economics at the University of New Hampshire. Dr. Aliouche held senior positions with leading global corporations including AT&T and Lucent Technologies.
For the sauce 2 teaspoons wasabi powder 2 teaspoons water 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 ⁄2 teaspoon fresh grated ginger
1. In a bowl, mix wasabi and water to make a paste. Let stand 10 minutes. 2. Whisk in vinegar, sesame oil and garlic. Set aside.
Victoria Champagne-Sutherland is the founder and publisher of ForeWord Reviews, an award-winning literary review journal. Holds an MSA from Central Michigan University (thesis pending); and professional certifications in publishing from Stanford University, New York University, and Yale University. Mary Ann Esposito, the creator and host of PBS’ “Ciao Italia”, author of eleven cookbooks, holds an MA in food history from the University of New Hampshire. She received Johnson and Wales University’s Distinguished Author Award, and is a regular contributor to Boston University’s School of Lifelong Learning. Stephen James, a Certified Master Baker, was executive pastry chef at The Balsams Grand Resort in Dixville Notch, New Hampshire, for 21 years. He joined the Galley Hatch group as managing partner of Popovers on the Square in Portsmouth, and Epping New Hampshire. A gifted teacher, Stephen has lectured and performed baking demonstrations nationally. Sara Moulton, one of our favorite celeb chefs, has recently joined our advisory board. A CIA grad, protege of Julia Child and Jacques Pépin, she is the author of three bestselling cookbooks, founder of the New York Women’s Culinary Alliance, and formerly Executive Chef for Gourmet magazine. Her latest venture, “Sara’s Kitchen” is available as an app that features recipes and videos.
I was eating sushi with a friend of mine recently and she said that the green wasabi on our plates wasn’t really wasabi. Is she right? Most likely, she is. Real wasabi is very hard to find outside of Japan, although in this country, attempts are being made to cultivate it in the Pacific Northwest. What we generally get in a sushi restaurant is a paste made of horseradish, mustard and green coloring. As tasty as this is, reports say that the real rhizome is herbier and tastes more like a plant. We’ve never had the chance to sample it. Fresh “real” wasabi is grated just before serving as it loses its zest and punch in a matter of minutes. The rhizome grows wild by the side of mountain streams, hence its rarity and high price when it is available. Nonetheless, what we can easily source here in this country is great on seafood and in dips, and many other concoctions like the one here.
For the tuna 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon coconut oil 1 ⁄2 teaspoon wasabi powder 2-4 fresh tuna steaks, 1 pound total, at least 1 inch thick
1. Bring gas or charcoal grill to high heat. 2. In a cup, mix the soy sauce, oil, and wasabi powder. Brush on tuna. Grill for 3-4 minutes on each side for rare tuna. 3. Slice the tuna thinly on an angle and serve with the wasabi sauce. Is there a nutritional difference between duck eggs and chicken eggs? Yes, there is. While duck eggs have more fat and calories than chicken eggs, depending on their diet, they have significantly more vitamins and iron. In terms of taste we find them richer and creamier which is why we love to use them for recipes like the one below. According to Backyard Poultry Magazine, people who have egg allergies may be able to tolerate duck eggs. As with chicken eggs though, the best ones come from free range, pasture raised birds with a varied diet.
Have a question for the editors? E-mail us at email@example.com, or drop us a note on Facebook. Letters may be edited for space and/or clarity. Not all letters will be published.
Look for them at your local farmers’ market, organic food stores or, if you’re lucky, in a cooler by the roadside when you’re on the back roads!
Duck Egg Spaghetti Carbonara We left out the traditional pancetta and/or guanciale (smoked pig cheek) and added peas in order to balance out the richness of the duck eggs. One pound of spaghetti or fettuccini Two duck eggs, one duck egg white 1 ⁄2 cup best-quality Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated 1 ⁄2 cup best-quality Pecorino Romano, freshly grated One cup of cooked peas A splash of extra virgin olive oil
1. Let the eggs come to room temperature. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, egg white and olive oil. 2. Cook pasta in boiling salted water according to the package directions. Drain, reserving 1⁄4-1⁄2 cup of the pasta water. 3. Add the piping hot pasta to the bowl and toss well with tongs or forks. Add half of each of the cheeses and toss again. Add a bit of the pasta water, adding more as needed to give the dish a creamy consistency. 4. Add peas and remainder of cheese and toss again until well blended and creamy. Top with fresh cracked pepper.
The blue MSC logo is the new standard for seafood quality. All our lobsters — live, fresh frozen, and specialty products —are MSC Certiºed Sustainable. It is the very best lobster you can buy, serve and eat. 100% Maine lobster, ºshed sustainably in Maine waters by Mainers, guaranteed.
To order wholesale live lobsters
& fresh frozen products:
contact us Editorial: E-mail comments, questions, and story ideas to firstname.lastname@example.org or via mail to “Letters” Northeast FLAVOR, One Government Street, Suite 1, Kittery, ME 03904. By submitting a letter you are disclosing full rights to publication. Not all letters and questions will be published, and may be edited for space and/or clarity.
Advertising: For information, call 207-703-2312,or email email@example.com.
Introducing Upstairs at Massimo’s. A stunning street level lounge with a fresh approach to the finest Italian cuisine in small excursions. 59 Penhallow Penhallow Street, Street, Portsmouth, Portsmouth, NH 603.436.4000 www.RistoranteMassimo.com ww ww w.Ristorante .Ristora Massimo.com
Subscriptions: To subscribe or to order a gift subscription, visit www.northeastflavor.com. To change your address or for general questions about your current subscription, e-mail firstname.lastname@example.org. Digital subscriptions available through www.zinio.com/NortheastFlavor. NORTHEASTFLAVOR.COM
FOOD + COOKING | Insights
Chefs’ Secrets The fruit pies and tarts I buy at our local bakery always have such beautiful shiny crusts. What’s the trick to doing that at home? Most likely it’s a “wash” that’s giving that glistening golden appearance. Millicent Souris, author of How to Build a Better Pie (Quarry Books, 2012) says, “A wash is something you put on a baked item, whether that is a bread, a biscuit, or pie crust. Adding a wash to your pie crust is a sure way to maximize the sensory reaction.” She goes on to say, “Your choice of wash is versatile: it can be a whole egg, an egg white, an egg yolk (diluted with water, milk, half and half, or heavy cream. The richer the wash the richer the color.” The fats in the wash will deepen the color of the crust as it cooks. Just be careful not to overcook. See her recipe below.
Raspberry Pie with Shortening Crust
Come feel the heat
Lunch & Dinner Dine In or Take Out
You can use your favorite pie crust recipe or store bought. Author Millicent Souris recommends a shortening crust for this pie. For her crust recipe go to www.northeastflavor.com. For the Crust Basic Pie Crust (substitute shortening for the butter), chilled For the filling 5 cups raspberries 1 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt Zest and juice of 1 lemon 2 tablespoons thickener of your choice* For the wash 1 whole egg, beaten, or 3 tablespoons heavy cream or whole milk 3 tablespoons raw sugar
www.900degrees.com (603) 641-0900 50 Dow Street Manchester, NH
Menu and directions available online.
10 SUMMER 2014
1. Preheat the oven to 425°F. 2. To make the bottom crust: Roll out your chilled crust to 1⁄8-inch thick. It should be about 13 inches in diameter. Place in your pie pan. 3. Trim the edges so there is no more than 1⁄4-inch of overhang. Lift and crimp the overhang along the rim of the pie pan. Chill the bottom crust in the refrigerator or freezer.
4. While the bottom crust is chilling, pick through the raspberries for any moldy ones and discard. Put in a bowl with the sugar, salt, lemon zest and juice, and thickener. 5. Pull out your top crust and roll it out for a lattice top. You should achieve the same thickness as the bottom crust. Cut the crust into lattice strips. 6. Whip up your egg or get your cream in a bowl. Gently wash the top of the crust with a pastry brush. It’s okay if it gets on the fruit. This wash does not affect the flavor of the filling; it just adds a great crunch and depth to the top crust. 7. Sprinkle evenly with the raw sugar. 8. Create an aluminum foil barrier and place atop the pie. You want it to shield the crust from the heat, but you do not want to press the foil down upon the crust because it will stick and come up with the foil when you remove it. 9. Bake at 425°F for 30 minutes. Then carefully remove the foil, rotate the pie 180 degrees, and lower your oven to 350°F for the following 30 minutes. The pie is done when you can see that the bottom crust is golden, about an hour total. Pull and let sit for 2 hours. Makes 1 pie (8 servings)
*Note: Millicent Souris suggests cornstarch, allpurpose flour, pastry flour or cake flour as well as ground white rice. She also strongly recommends allowing plenty of time for the pie to cool as hot fillings will remain runny and not set.
When chefs refer to the “mise en place”, what does that mean? Mise en place means “everything in its place.” If you’ve watched cooking demos or cooking shows, you’ll see that the chefs generally have each of the ingredients measured into containers of varying sizes. It all seems so seamless to add a cup of this, a tablespoon of that. And there’s a good reason for that — when the mise en place is–ahem–in place, things tend to run more smoothly in the kitchen.
Mise en place is an attitude . . . Susan Crowther, based in Brattleboro, Vermont is a CIA grad, caterer, nutritionist and the author of The No Recipe Cookbook (Skyhorse Publishing, 2013). The first chapter tells us, that mise en place “was the first thing we learned, on the first day, in the first five minutes of class. The phrase was our axiom and our entire method of cooking. . . Mise en place is an attitude. It is a process.” According to Crowther it goes beyond measuring out ingredients. Her list goes like this: • Take the time to collect your thoughts • Think about the dish to be prepared • Write down what you are going to cook • Create lists: list the ingredients, list the utensils and appliances, and list the amount of time needed to create the recipe. • Prepare ingredients before actually cooking • Have everything at hand, within reach and ready to use Having neglected these steps on many occasions, we can vouch for the fact that what seems like something that just takes extra time, the mise en place is in fact, a time saver, and will result in better, more efficient cooking.
Award-winning fresh goat cheese without cellulose or mold inhibitors.
Websterville, W ebsterville, Vermont Vermont • vermontcreamery.com vermontcreamery y.com •
O OUTDOOR UTDOOR
DINING ON O N OUR O UR GARDEN T ERRACE GARDEN TERRACE
LIVE MUSIC M EVERY SUNDAY NIGHT 4-7 PM
NOT TOO CASUAL, NOT TOO FANCY, IT'S JUUUST RIGHT...
FOOD + COOKING | Healthy Flavors
That’s Cold! Going Green for Summer VICHYSSOISE IS PERHAPS THE best-known cold
Chilled Asparagus Soup with Red Pepper Coulis (recipe on p. 13)
Recipes and photographs reprinted with permission courtesy of Jacqui Small® 2013.
soup. The creamy potato and leek soup is just about synonymous with classic French cuisine, though some sources say it originated at the Ritz Carlton in New York. In spite of its high falutin’ reputation, it’s simple to make and a real star at any picnic. But healthy? With the addition of substantial amounts of heavy cream, not so much. The first three of these great healthy soup recipes come to us courtesy of British chef and cookbook author Paul Gaylor from Great Homemade Soups: A Cook’s Collection (Jacqui Small, 2013). Sasha Shor, one of our culinary advisors and owner of Tres Carnes (four amped up barbeque spots in the New York metro area) shares her green gazpacho.
12 SUMMER 2014
Cucumber and Yogurt Soup with Cucumber Granita Chilled Asparagus Soup with Red Pepper Coulis This recipe from acclaimed chef Daniel Boulud is stunningly beautiful to look at and it tastes wonderful, too. 3 cups chicken stock 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 2 small leeks, trimmed and thickly sliced 1 potato, peeled, cut in small dice Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper 24 large asparagus spears, (1 inch of the hard stem end discarded and the rest cut into 1⁄2 inch slices) 2 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, leaves only
1. Heat the stock in a pan over medium heat. 2. Meanwhile, heat the oil in another pan over medium heat, then add the leeks and sweat for 5 to 7 minutes, or until soft. Take care not to let the leeks brown. Add the hot stock, the potato and a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil and cook for 6 to 8 minutes. 3. Add the asparagus and the parsley leaves and boil for 5 to 7 minutes over high heat until tender. Transfer to a blender or use a hand-held stick blender and blitz until smooth. 4. Season to taste, strain through a fine sieve into a bowl, then place the bowl over ice to cool. When cooled, cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. For the red pepper coulis 1 ⁄2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 shallot, chopped 2 red peppers, deseeded and coarsely chopped 1 ⁄2 cup chicken stock 6 drops of Tabasco sauce
1. Heat the oil in a small saucepan over mediumlow heat. Add the shallot and red peppers and sauté for 6 to 8 minutes until soft. 2. Add the stock, bring to the boil, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a blender or use a handheld stick blender and blitz until smooth. Add the Tabasco sauce and salt and pepper to taste. Strain through a fine sieve into a bowl, leave to cool, then refrigerate until needed. To serve
Divide the soup among 4 individual chilled soup bowls, then drizzle each bowl with the red pepper coulis.
Cucumber and Yogurt Soup with Cucumber Granita Use thickset yogurt for the best results, but use lower fat to reduce calories. The recipe for the cucumber granita (shavings of cucumber ice) will make more than you need but you can keep the rest in the freezer for another time. For the granita 1 ⁄4 cup superfine sugar 3 ⁄4 cup water 10 mint leaves 21⁄4 pounds cucumber, seeded and sliced 1 tablespoon lime juice Sea salt
1. Either the day before or at least 4 to 5 hours before it is needed, make the granita. Put the sugar and water in a small pan, bring slowly to the boil, then add the mint. Reduce the heat as low as possible and simmer for 3 minutes. 2. Process the cucumber in a juice extractor or liquify in a blender, then strain. Add to the mint syrup. Add the lime juice and a little salt, then strain to remove the mint. Pour the granita into a shallow container and freeze for up to 4 hours or overnight.
For the soup 3 medium cucumbers, peeled, seeded and cubed Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 shallots, coarsely chopped 1 ⁄4 garlic clove, crushed 3 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon chipped fresh mint leaves, plus a few extra, to garnish 11⁄2 cups natural, thick, Greek-style yogurt
1. Put the cucumbers in a small colander set above a bowl. Sprinkle lightly with a little salt and leave for 30 minutes to draw out the water into the bowl. Set the cucumber water aside. 2. Place the cucumbers in a blender (or use a handheld stick blender) together with the shallots, garlic, lemon juice and mint. Blend until smooth. 3. Add the yogurt and enough of the cucumber water to obtain a thick creamy soup. Season to taste, then refrigerate for up to 4 hours. 4. When ready to serve, remove the granita from the freezer. Use the tines of a fork to scrape it into loose, icy shavings. Divide the soup between 4 individual soup bowls or glasses. Top each with some cucumber granita and serve immediately, garnished with the extra mint leaves. NORTHEASTFLAVOR.COM
FOOD + COOKING | Healthy Flavors
Pea, Mint and Buttermilk Soup with Olive Toasts
For the soup 3 cups vegetable stock 2 scallions, sliced 1 garlic clove, crushed 31⁄2 cups fresh or frozen peas Small handful of fresh mint leaves, plus a little extra, shredded, to garnish 1 ⁄2 teaspoon superfine sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 ⁄2 cup buttermilk Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. The day before you need the soup, put the stock in a large pan and bring to the boil. Add the scallions, garlic, peas and mint, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Do not overcook or the vegetables will lose their fresh flavor. 2. Transfer to a blender or use a hand-held stick blender. Add the sugar, lemon juice and buttermilk and blend to a smooth purée. Leave to cool. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate overnight. 3. The next day, stir in the extra mint leaves and season to taste. Divide the soup between 4 individual chilled soup bowls. Serve with the toasts spread with tapenade. Recipe follows. For the tapenade 1 garlic clove, crushed Juice of 1⁄2 lemon 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed 3 anchovy fillets 3 ⁄4 cup black olives, pitted (Greek or other) 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Chop all the ingredients in a food processor and mix together in a bowl. For a less rough version, place all the ingredients in a small blender and blitz until smooth. Serve with small bread rolls or a baguette, sliced and toasted. The tapenade can be made the day it is needed or it will keep in the fridge, in a sealed container, for 3 to 4 days.
14 SUMMER 2014
Photograph © www.forknplate.com.
Look for pods that are bright green in color and that snap crisply when you bend them. Frozen peas can be substituted if necessary. You can also swap the buttermilk with sour cream. Use reduced fat products for a healthier dish.
Gazpacho Verde with Cucumber-Green Apple Pico de Gallo
Variation: To make Chilled Pea, Spring Onion and Crab Soup, proceed as for the basic soup but top the chilled soup with some cooked white crabmeat and some thinly shredded spring onion instead of the mint leaves. Gazpacho Verde with CucumberGreen Apple Pico de Gallo A few notes from Chef Sasha: The gazpacho will keep for about a week covered and chilled in the fridge. Pico will keep fresh for 2-3 days. Use on everything! They make their own sofrito and salsa at Tres Carnes but your favorite jarred variety is fine. Check out www.forknplate.com/2014/06/ 05/ gazpacho-recipe-tres-carnes to see a video of Chef Sasha preparing this recipe. 2 pounds (approximately 4) fresh cucumbers) peeled and cut into large chunks 3 ⁄4 pound (approximately 12) fresh tomatillos, husked, rinsed, quartered 1 ⁄2 cup chopped yellow onion 1 teaspoon chopped garlic 1 ⁄4 cup chopped cilantro 3 ⁄4 cup jarred green salsa 1 ⁄4 cup green sofrito base 1 ⁄3 cup fresh lime juice 3 ⁄4 cup water 1 tablespoon agave nectar 3 ⁄4 tablespoon kosher salt 1 ⁄4 cup white vinegar
1. In a food processor, purée all raw vegetables (cucumbers, tomatillos, onions, garlic, cilantro) with salt and vinegar. 2. Empty into a large bowl or container. In same food processor container purée together salsa, green sofrito base, agave nectar and lime juice. 3. Add this mixture to vegetable puree and whisk in water at end to thin. Chill overnight or for at least 4 hours. Serve in cups with apple-cucumber pico (recipe below) on top of each serving as a garnish. Serves 6-8
Cucumber-Green Apple Pico de Gallo This is more pico that you will need for a garnish for the gazpacho, but it’s great on everything including tortilla chips, tacos and just by the spoonful. 3 Granny Smith apples, cored and cut into 1 ⁄4 inch dice 1 European cucumber, ends trimmed, cut into 1⁄4 inch dice 1 cup white onion, diced 1 ⁄2 cup chopped cilantro 1 ⁄4 cup lime juice 1 teaspoon agave nectar 2 teaspoons kosher salt
Mix all well. Keep covered and chill. Makes 1 quart
Visit www.northeastﬂavor.com for Editor Jean Kerr’s recipe for Asparagus and New Potato Vichyssoise.
Photograph (left) courtesy of the Colony Hotel; (right, top and bottom) courtesy of the White Barn Inn.
CHEFS + RESTAURANTS | Destination
Clockwise from left: Poolside overlooking the ocean at the Colony Hotel; The elegant dining room at the White Barn Inn; Chef Jonathan Cartwright plates his signature Lobster Spring Rolls (recipe on page 20).
Classic Comfort and Great Chefs: A Visit to Kennebunkport BY JEAN KERR
EVER SINCE THE LATE 1800s, Kennebunkport has been known as one of the most attractive — and poshest — resort towns on the Maine coast. With gorgeous summer homes like Walker’s Point, (the Bush compound) and food and lodging to suit just about every taste, Kennebunkport remains a thriving destination for both great food and luxury accommodations.
Timeless Elegance The Colony Hotel (www.thecolony hotel.com) gives visitors a peek into Kennebunkport’s past, and the pastimes of its genteel visitors. The hotel maintains such traditions as afternoon tea, shuffleboard and lawn games. There are no flat screen TVs in the rooms, and no fitness center,
16 SUMMER 2014
though the Colony has arrangements with local clubs. The Colony is decidedly pet friendly, with dog blankets supplied for visiting canines. The Colony is beautifully but simply appointed, with rooms that harken back to its origins in 1914. It has been in the same family since 1948, and clearly the owners maintain the proud tradition of simple luxury and gracious service. The ongoing process of refurbishment and historical preservation are evident throughout the hotel. The bay window in our room overlooked the breakwater at the entrance to the harbor as well as gorgeous views of the Atlantic with Mount Agamenticus in the distance. Simple, elegant décor is the rule,
with many pieces of original furniture lovingly restored. Sea breezes blowing through the gauzy curtains will transport you back in time. Our room overlooked the heated saltwater swimming pool and the Colony’s private beach. And the Colony’s lavish breakfast buffet will get your day off to a terrific start. But not everything harkens back to the past. In 1994 the family launched the Colony Hotel Ecology Group, becoming the state’s first environmentally responsible hotel. Its practice of energy conservation, recycling, waste reduction and cultural stability helped to qualify it as a U.S. Backyard Wildlife Habitat in the state of Maine.
Photograph by Trent Bell/Kennebunkport Resort Collection.
and exclusive amenities
Al fresco dining at Earth at Hidden Pond.
Heaven at Earth Executive Chef Justin Walker, along with acclaimed Chef Ken Oringer, are the culinary forces behind this incredible Kennebunkport dining destination. Part of the Hidden Pond Resort, Earth at Hidden Pond (www.earthathiddenpond.com) is known for its farm to table ethos, romantic outdoor dining and stunning decor. Chef Walker has created a menu comprised of house-made pastas, cheeses, breads, charcuterie and desserts and locally sourced meats and seafood. Herbs, flowers and heirloom vegetables are grown in Earth’s 800-square foot organic garden. Even cocktails are prepared using ingredients from the garden. Tim Harrington, one of the property’s owners, drew inspiration for Earth’s eclectic décor from a favorite café in Uruguay. Outdoor seating overlooking the “hidden pond” is illuminated by hanging lanterns and tables are placed among herb and flower gardens. Walker, named a Rising Star by StarChefs, continues to push the envelope
Windham Hill Inn & Windham Hill Restaurant & Bar West Townshend, VT • windhamhill.com
The Roundhouse & Swifts Restaurant
with ultra seasonal offerings like garganelli with wood roasted rabbit, ramps, brown butter and artichoke mustarda; and local chicken with spring vegetable confit, black trumpet mushrooms, fava leaves and goat whey. Or try starters like seared foie gras with fennel yogurt, sweet chili, a citrus crumble and lovage. Or Nonesuch River oysters with Meyer lemon-hyssop cocktail sauce. Locally raised grass-fed beef tartare was on the menu when we visited and it was superb. Not surprisingly, tables can be hard to get in the busy summer months. Reservations (even for resort guests!) at least two weeks in advance are recommended.
Surrounded by Luxury The White Barn Inn and British-born Grand Chef Jonathan Cartwright have become Kennebunkport institutions since 1996 when Cartwright became Executive Chef at The White Barn Inn Restaurant (www.whitebarninn.com), one of only five AAA Five Diamond restaurants in New England.
Beacon, NY • roundhousebeacon.com
The Ethan Allen Hotel & Fairfields Restaurant
Danbury, CT • ethanallenhotel.com
Unique Architecture World-Class Cuisine & Exquisite Service
CHEFS + RESTAURANTS | Destination
Stripers’ Executive Chef Gary Caron.
Accommodations include traditional rooms in the original farmhouse as well as cottages and suites with a bountiful Continental breakfast and afternoon tea included. If you’re heading to the beach, order a picnic hamper to take along. Browse the Inn’s signature spa treatments online and be prepared to be pampered. “We’re selling a little bit of happiness for a few hours while our guests are here — that’s actually priceless.”
Photograph courtesy of Breakwater Inn and Spa.
Riverside Elegance and the Freshest Seafood
When asked how he stays inspired after all these years, given his dual role as Grand Chef Relais & Châteaux and Chief Operating Officer of US Hotels New England Management Corporation, Cartwright says simply, “I’m a chef — I love food,” he says. “I will always have a passion for that.” In fact, he not only seeks to cultivate a similar zeal within his kitchen staff, he seeks to nurture them as human beings. “We don’t play much on hierarchy here,” he says. “People work shoulder to shoulder everyday, which is why we’ll help people and make sure they feel cared for.” As for what inspires his menu creations, he cites a wealth of local, quality ingredients and growers willing to grow almost
18 SUMMER 2014
anything for him. Featuring fresh, local seafood caught in the waters off Kennebunkport, Maine as well as native game and poultry, Cartwright says recipes from his menu, which changes seasonally, rely on simplicity. “We try not to overcomplicate the dishes with too many ingredients fighting on a plate,” he explains. Signature dishes include the Lobster Spring Roll with carrot, daikon radish and snow peas in a sweet and spicy sauce, Maine Salmon Medallions with spinach polenta and an eggplant puree, Pan Roasted Duck with rhubarb raspberry chutney, pommes soufflé and foie gras sauce. Desserts are inspired seasonally as well, like the Blueberry hibiscus soufflé with frozen blueberry yogurt and blueberry compote.
The Breakwater Inn and Spa (www. thebreakwaterinn.com) now under the aegis of Hay Creek Hotels, consistently gets rave reviews for its ultra comfortable accommodations and lovely waterside location. Located in a historic building, the rooms offer views of the entrance to Kennebunkport Harbor and the breakwater that marks the inlet. The building may be classic old New England, but the rooms are updated and luxurious. You can stay in the original building or in a spa room or suite, with more contemporary décor and elevator access. The Waterside Cottage is right over the water and offers the ultimate in privacy and comfort, as well as a front row seat to the water traffic you’ll see coming and going throughout your stay. The Spa is a haven of serenity. Brushed glass walls and doors in blue and green tones give a feeling of being in a retreat made of sea glass. Spa staff is welcoming and professional with a great variety of signature treatments. A fully equipped fitness room also overlooks the river. Stripers restaurant specializes in local meats and seafood with inspired twists. The Sunset Lounge opens long before sunset with raw bar selections as well as more traditional pub fare. The dinner menu boasts eight different lobster preparations and an extensive list of fin fish entrées based on what’s best and freshest that day. In addition to lunch, brunch and dinner, Stripers boasts some of the vantage points in Kennebunkport. Pull up an Adirondack
Photograph by Trent Bell/Kennebunkport Resort Collection.
that surpass expectations
The Centennial Hotel & Granite Restaurant & Bar
Concord, NH • thecentennialhotel.com
David’s KPT at The Boathouse.
chair on the front lawn and sip a Striper’s signature cocktail, dine on the deck or in the dining room — all overlooking the water. Executive Chef Gary Caron says, “I love being in a place where we can provide our guests with a dozen beautiful Maine raised oysters and a cocktail or Maine brewed craft beer while they relax on the lawn, and then turn around and create a multi-course dining experience for them that evening.”
Not Your Average Boathouse The newly renovated Boathouse Waterfront Hotel (www.boathouseme.com) is yet another jewel in Kennebunkport’s crown. With 25 newly renovated rooms, some with balconies, the rooms are luxuriously cutting edge, with amenities like Apple TV, flat screen televisions and I-pod docks. The design and décor reminded me of a small but luxurious cruise ship. There is a rooftop deck for the warmer months and great views of the water. During the summer get in a sail on the schooner Eleanor and the Boathouse can supply a bottle of wine for your cruise. The Boathouse offers “Stay Enhancements” like a ”Sun, Sand and a Beach Bag in Your Hand” which equips you with sunscreen, bottled water, towels, maga-
zines and a parking pass. The “Three Sheets to the Wind” enhancement offers a Boathouse martini shaker with your choice of their signature cocktails. You keep the shaker as a memento of your stay. “Oh Those Summer Nights” includes a Boathouse fleece blanket to cuddle up in and a bottle of bubbly to share with your sweetie. Add to this the culinary prowess of acclaimed Portland chef and veteran restaurateur David Turin, whose eleventh restaurant, David’s KPT is on premises, and you’ve got quite the package. Turin, whose KPT menu includes great (and great value) happy hour noshes and bargain drinks, is the perfect relaxation after a day on the beach or the water. The tasting menu that we sampled included a Tartar Duo, with steak, truffle and Pacific Rim tuna and Fried calamari with lemon, spicy aioli and cilantro. Entrées included a Magret of Duck with risotto, and a lobster and oyster stew. Last but by no means least, we loved David’s white chocolate mousse served with almond cookies and a raspberry coulis, just one of several luscious dessert offerings.
The Exeter Inn & Epoch Restaurant & Bar
Exeter, NH • theexeterinn.com
The Breakwater Inn & Spa & Stripers Waterside Restaurant
Unique Architecture World-Class Cuisine & Exquisite Service
Recipes on the following page.
Photograph courtesy of Breakwater Inn and Spa.
CHEFS + RESTAURANTS | Destination
Riverside dining at the Breakwater Inn.
Fried Oysters with Padron Pepper Relish At Earth the peppers in this recipe are charred in a wood oven, and seasonally, come from their farm. “The relish is great on vegetables, seafood or just about anything,” says Danielle Walker, General Manager at Earth. Chef Justin Walker (yes, they’re a team!) garnishes these tasty morsels with crispy crumbled bacon and fried sage leaves. The relish can be made up to three days in advance. For the pepper relish 2 green bell peppers 2 Padron peppers 1 tablespoon minced shallots 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 1 ⁄4 cup Sherry vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar Salt to taste
1. Char the peppers under the broiler or on a grill until the skin is blackened. Wrap loosely in a towel and allow to cool.
2. When cool enough to handle, peel off charred skin. Quarter and seed the peppers and pulse in a food processor until relish consistency. 3. Place all ingredients in a non-reactive (stainless steel or enameled) saucepan and simmer until thick and jammy. For the oysters 2 dozen oysters shucked, stored in their liquor, deeper bottom shell rinsed and reserved 1 cup corn flour Salt and pepper to taste Corn or peanut oil for deep-frying, enough to come two inches up the side of your pan
1. Heat the oil in a saucepan to 350ºF. Season the corn flour with salt and pepper to taste. 2. Dredge oysters in the seasoned corn flour. Shake off excess flour and fry until crispy. 3. To serve, place a spoon full of the relish in each clean oyster shell. 4. Place a fried oyster on the relish and serve immediately. Serves 4
20 SUMMER 2014
Lobster Spring Rolls This dish is adapted from the recipe for the White Barn Inn’s elegantly presented appetizer. 1 teaspoon sesame oil 1 pound cooked lobster meat, chopped 2 large carrots, cut into thin strips 1 medium daikon, cut into strips 10 snow pea pods, cut into thin strips 1 tablespoon ginger, finely chopped 4 egg roll wrappers 1 egg yolk for wash to seal rolls 1 teaspoon oyster sauce 1 tablespoon soy sauce Peanut oil for frying Cilantro oil (recipe follows) Your favorite Thai sweet chili sauce
1. In a sauté pan, heat the sesame oil and stir-fry all the vegetables for about a minute. Add the soy sauce, ginger and oyster sauce to the vegetables. Cool. 2. In a mixing bowl combine the lobster and half the stir-fried vegetables, squeeze out all the excess liquid. Divide the drained mixture into four rolls. Wrap each one tightly in an egg roll sheet egg washing the sides before rolling and sticking down the end.
as the towns we serve
3. Heat oil to 350°F. Gently place spring rolls in oil and deep fry for approximately five minutes. Serve them on hot plates with the remainder of the stir-fry vegetables and cilantro oil and Thai sweet chili sauce.
4. To serve, divide noodles between four wide bowls. Place a piece of fish in each and pour mushrooms with their marinade over. Garnish with daikon or radish and serve. Serves 4
For the cilantro oil 1 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 bunch fresh cilantro
1. Drop the cilantro into boiling water for a few seconds and refresh in ice water. 2. Squeeze the blanched cilantro dry. In a highspeed blender or food processor, blend the oil and cilantro together for 30 seconds and strain through a fine sieve. Keep in a glass container. Maine Redfish with Pickled Mushrooms and Soba Noodles Chef Gary Caron at Stripers created this dish for a customer who is also an avid sport-fisherman. Gary says, “I made this dish for him and he was amazed that the ‘little red things with the nasty spines’ that he had been throwing back were this delicious.” 1
⁄4 cup sugar ⁄4 cup rice wine vinegar 1 ⁄2 cup light soy sauce 1 ⁄2 pound mixed mushrooms, such as shitake or cremini, cleaned and broken into roughly uniform pieces 1 cup apple cider 1 ⁄4 cup maple syrup 1 ⁄8 cup red miso 1 pound of buckwheat soba noodles, cooked according to package directions 4 half- pound redfish fillets Salt, dried coriander and pepper to taste 2 tablespoons canola oil Daikon or radish, coarsely grated for garnish 1
1. In a saucepan, combine sugar, rice wine vinegar, and soy sauce. Bring to a boil. Add mushrooms and cool for a couple of hours or overnight. 2. In a large pot or Dutch oven, combine apple cider vinegar, maple syrup, and miso paste. Blend well and bring to a simmer. Add the mushrooms and soba noodles and keep warm. 3. Heat canola oil in a large sauté pan. Season fish filets with salt, pepper and coriander and fry redfish skin side down, until crispy. Turn the filets over and turn off heat. The flesh side should be just golden and the filets cooked through.
Berry and Apple Crisp Chef David Turin makes this simple but delicious dessert in his restaurant at The Boathouse in Kennebunkport. For the filling 1 Macintosh apple, peeled, cored and chopped 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and chopped 1 ⁄2 pint raspberries 1 ⁄2 pint blueberries 1 quart strawberries, rinsed, cored and sliced 1 ⁄2 cup sugar 1 ⁄4 teaspoon Cinnamon 1 ⁄8 teaspoon ground ginger 1 ⁄8 teaspoon nutmeg Dash ground cloves 1 tablespoon lemon zest 1 teaspoon lemon juice For the topping 2 ⁄3 cup flour 1 ⁄4 teaspoon cinnamon 1 ⁄8 teaspoon nutmeg 1 ⁄4 cup brown sugar 1 ⁄4 cup white sugar 4 tablespoons butter, partly softened 1 cup your favorite granola 1 ⁄2 cup nuts, such as almonds or pecans (optional)
1. Preheat oven to 325ºF. 2. Combine all ingredients for the filling in a mixing bowl and toss well. Turn mixture into an ovenproof baking dish. 3. Combine the topping ingredients in a bowl. Using pastry blender or your fingers, cut ingredients into butter until the mixture is the consistency of corn kernels. 4. Spread the topping over the fruit and bake about 12 to15 minutes until the filling is bubbling and topping is crisp. May be made ahead of time and reheated. Serve with vanilla ice cream if desired. Serves 6 to 8
Eagle Mountain House & Eagle Landing Tavern Jackson, NH • eaglemt.com
The Wolfeboro Inn & Wolfe’s Tavern
Wolfeboro, NH • wolfeboroinn.com
The Orchards Hotel & Gala Steakhouse
Williamstown, MA • orchardshotel.com
Unique Architecture World-Class Cuisine & Exquisite Service
IN THE GLASS | Wine Finds
Your Wine FAQs Answered! B Y D A N A M AT U Z Z I
Wine expert Dan Amatuzzi, author of A First Course in Wine, shines some light on some of the most confusing questions about the wines we drink.
Where does a wine’s color come from? Winemakers measure the sugar levels in grapes throughout the summer. Once the grapes are ripe they are cut from the vine and brought to the winery for immediate pressing. If the fresh grape juice macerates with the skins, the juice will take on the color of the skins. The longer the juice and the skins remain in contact, the more color the wine will take on. Most white grapes are crushed with barely any skin contact, and the finished wines are clear and white to off-white. There are some white wines that are made from macerating the skins with the juice before fermentation, and these wines usually take on colors of deep yellow, crimson, and even orange, depending upon the actual color of the grape. White grape varieties such as Pinot Grigio actually have grayish and copper-toned skins. Oak barrels also add color. Although the influence is less noticeable in red wines, the golden raisin color of white wines is usually a result of aging in oak barrels. As the wine rests, the wine takes on the color (and also the flavor and tannin) of the wood.
22 SUMMER 2014
Harvest workers manually crushing Montepulciano grapes in Abruzzo, Italy.
Did you know white wine can be made from black-skinned grapes? When crushing the grapes the juice is separated immediately from the skins. The resulting wines are sometimes referred to as blanc de noir, which translates to “white from black.”
What is yeast all about? Native yeasts cling to grapes naturally. Some purists ferment their wine using only these yeasts, believing they allow the grape to fully express itself. However, native yeasts typically take a long time to ferment and they sometimes don’t convert all the sugar into alcohol. For this reason many winemakers prefer to use cultured yeasts, which are widely believed to give winemakers more control. The fermentation process lasts anywhere from one to six weeks and in some cases can take much longer due to the types of yeast used, the temperature
during fermentation, and the vessel in which the fermentation takes place. There are only trace amounts of residual sugar in the wine following fermentation. Even though a wine may taste fruity or sweet, those are the flavors of the grape expressing itself and not necessarily actual sugar. The variety of flavors of different grapes is what makes wine drinking very exciting. Sure, fruitiness is a desirable quality in a wine, but it should be kept in check by other qualities such as acidity, tannin and alcohol.
What are sulfites? Sulfites are preservatives widely used in winemaking. When sulfur dioxide — chemically similar to sulfite — is added to fermenting wine, the sulfur kills any remaining yeast cells that have yet to transfer the sugar into alcohol. This method allows winemakers to control the alcohol content of the finished wine. Yeast
cells also create small amounts of sulfur during fermentation. Following fermentation the remaining sulfites act as a preservative for the finished wine. This helps to prevent volatility in the wine throughout its life as it journeys around the world before being consumed. It is debatable whether or not heightened levels of sulfites are hazardous to your health. To date no substantial evidence of damaging effects exists, but some people certainly have lower thresholds for sulfites. Many wine specialists recommend having something in your stomach when consuming wine. This will aid in digestion and the absorption of sulfites and the other components of wine.
Small Plates - Big Flavors! Deck and Fireplace Dining Sunset Cocktail Hour Rte. 1A, York Harbor ME www.yorkharborinn.com
What is malolactic fermentation? All reds and some white wines undergo a second fermentation. In this case bacteria are used to transfer the malic acid into lactic acid. When malic acid is dominant the wine is bright, crisp, and sharp. After malolactic fermentation the new lactic acid gives the wines softer, rounder, and creamier complexions. The process also creates diacetyl, a compound that gives off the aromas of heated butter and cream. It is a process that’s commonly used to make white wines taste soft and creamy, without the use of expensive oak barrels.
ONE SPECTACULAR OCEAN VIEW TWO UNIQUE DINING EXPERIENCES The 1637 Restaurant & The Ship’s Cellar Pub
DID YOU KNOW? White wines from Burgundy are some of the best white wines produced in the world, due in part to their aging capabilities. In the 1990s producers began using less sulfites with an eye towards more “natural” wines. Some of these wines are showing signs of oxidation as they reach 15 to 20 years of age, whereas in the past, white Burgundian wines were known for aging twice as long. Professionals feel that the reduction of sulfites during this time period is to blame for these oxidative qualities, helping to drive momentum back in favor of heavy-handed sulfur treatments. NORTHEASTFLAVOR.COM
e h C s ’ t s e j a M Her Royal teas and other perfect palace gatherings BY MIKE MORIN About the last thing one would expect to be doing would be cutting the crust from the Queen’s bread. No, it’s not a Monty Python sketch. If you are a chef at Buckingham Palace your job includes trimming crust from the Queen’s sandwiches, according to Darren McGrady who spent fifteen years feeding Britain’s royal family as well as world leaders from every corner of the globe. “We could never send anything square or rectangular up to the Monarch because traditionally it meant in the olden days, you wished ill upon them and wanted to see them in a coffin. Now this was fine if you were just doing afternoon tea for the Queen, but if this was 6,000 people at a garden party, you’d have a lot of corners to cut off,” the chef confesses. Now living in Texas, McGrady shares surprising stories from Eating Royally (Thomas Nelson, 2007) his cookbook which is filled with over 100 palace kitchen recipes and 150 photographs. McGrady donated all royalties from the book to the Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation. Today, he spends much of his time working as an event planner, speaker and culinary consultant. Like many cooks who graduate to celebrity chef status, McGrady’s early food memories began with his mum. She encouraged her son to pursue food for a practical reason.
24 SUMMER 2014
“I had the concentration of a two year old,” he says. “And she knew I could never be a builder because by the time I laid the foundation for the building, I’d be bored and on to the next project. With food it was a case where we could prepare a dish, serve it and then, oh yeah, goodie! Some fresh new ingredients and we can start all over again.” McGrady’s first day on the job at Buckingham Palace was anything but glamorous. He was assigned the mundane task of peeling carrots. “These are for the Queen,” he was instructed. “‘Cut the carrots into little fingers, all perfectly peeled.’ And I said, ‘There’s a lot there for the Queen.’ He said, ’No, they’re for the Queen’s horse.’ And it’s true. When she rides at Windsor and Balmoral, a groom comes to the kitchen and takes the bag of carrots, puts them in the Queen’s riding jacket pocket and at the end of the ride she feeds the horse the carrots,” he explains. From there the young chef actually went on to prepare meals for the entire Royal family, each member having somewhat different tastes. “Garlic is a little bit of a no-no, sort of the afterbreath thing. I think her Majesty was sort of greeting people after lunch when she’d been eating garlic so she did away with garlic and just doesn’t like garlic at all now.” The Queen’s husband, Prince Phillip, had a much different palate.
Chef Darren McGrady
Eggs Drumkilbo (recipe on p. 26)
Garden party fare: (from left to right) Jam and Cream Sponge, Chocolate Biscuit Cake, Battenburg Cake, Tea Sandwiches.
Recipes and photographs courtesy of Chef Darren McGrady.
“Prince Phillip loved garlic and so whenever he was on his own for a dinner party, we could use lots of garlic, lots of spices,” the chef adds. “He was well-traveled from his early days in his naval career so he loved the spicier foods but when it came to cooking for her Majesty, we had to tone down all the spices and heavy onions, too.” Though the Monarchs rarely had to scrounge to make a meal for themselves, Prince Phillip was formidable with a slab of meat and barbecue tongs. “You know, Prince Phillip is an amazing cook. He loved coming into the kitchen and during the summer they went to Balmoral up in the Scottish highlands,” a 50,000-acre estate with 12 lodges. Prince Phillip would take everyone out there and then cook on the grill. He loved to cook and he loved to cook barbecue.” Prince Charles, had other food preferences that McGrady had to work into the menu mix. “Price Charles would always arrive at Sandringham at Christmas and he would bring his own hamper of foods, much to Prince Phillip’s disdain. Prince Phillip would come into the kitchen and say, ‘What’s this? Who’s this from?’ And I’d say, ‘Your Royal Highness, this is from High Grove. This is all organic food from Prince Charles.’ And he would just roll his eyes.” McGrady was also very involved with Princess Diana’s special dietary requirements while she worked through a muchpublicized eating disorder. It appeared to the chef that the Princess was also selecting the wrong types of foods. “I knew something wasn’t quite right but you’re just a chef in the kitchen, (and) you’re not a dietician, you’re not an expert from that side. And then she confronted the bulimia. She was eating healthy and she was out at the gym, and I remember one day she said, ‘Darren, I want you to make me the tomato mousse that we
Eggs Drumkilbo This dish was the Queen Mother’s favorite and one we always put on the menu when she came to stay. It was also served at the wedding breakfast of Princess Anne and Captain Mark Phillips in 1973. 2 (11⁄2 pound) lobsters, cooked and cooled 8 hard-boiled eggs, divided 6 vine-ripe tomatoes 2 cups mayonnaise 1 ⁄2 cup ketchup 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 packet unflavored gelatin 1 cup sherry 6 medium shrimp 6 parsley sprigs for garnish Salt and freshly ground pepper
26 SUMMER 2014
had at the Palace,’ and I said, ‘Your Royal Highness, you can’t have that because it has mayonnaise, sour cream and heavy cream in there and you can’t have any of those.’ She told me, ‘You take care of all the fats and I’ll take care of the carbs at the gym.’ So I actually had to make her a fat-free version.” Even Oprah was a fan of McGrady’s tomato mousse. (Oprah) “Came for lunch one day and they’re having lunch together and it was quite funny. Oprah half way through the first course said, ‘Diana, how do you stay so slim eating rich foods like this?’ ‘Well,’ the Princess said, ‘I just eat small portions and work out.’ In fact, the Princess was on the fat-free version and Oprah was on the full-fat version,” he chuckles. The Queen may have disliked garlic, but she did have a sweet tooth. President Ronald Reagan also shared her Majesty’s love of desserts, the chef recalls. “I know when he came to Windsor Castle she certainly had lots of chocolate on the menu.” Despite the Royals’ immense wealth, Queen Elizabeth hated seeing anything from the kitchen go to waste. “We had a chef from a three star Michelin restaurant in London. He was trying to do a fancy decoration of a little lemon with sort of a pig’s tail curled, and it looked really pretty, to accompany the Queen’s smoked salmon and scrambled eggs that she was having as pre-dinner before going to the theater. She took a little squeeze of it and said, ‘Can you send this back downstairs? I’m sure we can use it for something else as well.’” In true McGrady tongue-in-cheek, the chef doesn’t hold back on her Majesty’s frugal ways. “If there was any money to spare, it usually went to the dogs. The Queen’s corgis could have new leashes and things but the chefs were cooking on pots and pans that were over 100 years old.”
1. Remove the meat from the lobster tails and claws, and dice into bite-size pieces. Dice 6 eggs into the same size as the lobster. 2. Bring 4 cups water to a rolling boil in a heavy-bottomed pan. Cut out the stem portion of the tomatoes and drop them into the boiling water for about 30 seconds. Remove immediately to ice cold water, and leave for several minutes. Peel the skins off the tomatoes. Cut the tomatoes into quarters, and remove the seeds and membranes. Dice the tomato flesh into the same size pieces as the egg and lobster. 3. In a large ceramic or glass bowl (not metallic), whisk the mayonnaise, ketchup, and Worcestershire sauce together until combined. Add the lobster, egg, and tomato, and fold together gently. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the egg and lobster mixture into an ornate glass dish, and
smooth the top to make it level. 4. Soften the gelatin with the sherry in a small pan. Place over a low heat, and stir until dissolved. Spoon a thin layer of the sherry over the top of the egg and lobster mixture and refrigerate the dish until the layer has set. 5. Using an egg slicer, cut six circles of egg from the remaining two eggs. Brush the tops of each egg slice with some of the remaining warm gelatin. Cut each of the shrimp in half lengthwise, dip into the gelatin, and arrange neatly on an egg slice. Refrigerate until set, and then lift each egg and shrimp garnish to decorate the egg and lobster salad. Garnish each with 1 sprig of parsley. Serve as an appetizer with lemon wedges and sliced and buttered brown bread. Makes 6 servings
Beef Tenderloin Steaks with Rosemary Bell Pepper Sauce For the steaks 4 beef tenderloin steaks — (6 oz each) 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons chopped green onions to garnish For the sauce 1 medium red bell pepper (half cut into 1 inch strips, half rough chopped) 1 small onion (finely chopped) 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 2 cups water 1 beef bouillon cube 1 teaspoon tomato paste ½ teaspoon Kitchen Bouquet or Gravy Master 3 tablespoons flour 2 cloves garlic Salt and pepper to taste
1. Prepare the sauce first; this can be done ahead of time — up to 24 hours. In a large sauté pan melt the butter and oil and add the peppers cut into strips. Sauté until tender and remove to a small bowl. Add the rough chopped peppers, onions, garlic, rosemary, and a pinch of salt and sauté until they start to soften and brown. 2. Stir in the flour, then the broth cube, Kitchen Bouquet and water and keep stirring until the sauce forms. 3. Simmer the sauce for at least 20 minutes. Strain off the vegetables and add salt and pepper to the sauce to taste. Keep the sauce warm until the steaks are cooked. 4. Preheat the oven to 400ºF. 5. Add the olive oil to a large sauté pan and season the steaks with the salt and pepper. When the oil is hot add the steaks and cook for about 2 minutes on each side. Remove from the heat and put the pan in the oven for about 10 minutes or until required doneness. 6. Remove from the oven and move the steaks to a clean plate. Let them rest for at least 5 minutes whilst the sauce comes to the boil. Serve the steaks on a bed of the sauce and top each steak with the red pepper strips. Garnish with the green onions. Makes 4 portions
Chocolate Perfection Pie This recipe has been in the family for years and one of Her Majesty’s favorites. For the pastry 11⁄4 cups all purpose flour 1 ⁄4 cup vanilla sugar 1 stick unsalted butter (cut into small pieces) 1 egg yolk 2 tablespoons heavy cream For the filling 2 eggs 1 ⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon 1 ⁄2 cup sugar 1 ⁄2 teaspoon white wine vinegar 1 ⁄4 teaspoon salt 6 ounces Ghirardelli semi-sweet chocolate (11⁄2 bars) ½ cup water 2 egg yolks 1 cup heavy cream 1 ⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon 2 ounces Ghirardelli white chocolate, grated (1⁄2 bar)
1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF and then prepare the pastry case/shell — In a large bowl add the flour and sugar and rub in the butter to resemble fine crumbs. Add the egg yolk and cream and form the paste into a ball.
2. Roll out the paste and line a 9 inch flan ring, then part bake the flan. 3. Prepare the filling — Place a mixing bowl over a pan of boiling water (like preparing hollandaise) and add 2 eggs, 1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon, 1⁄2 cup sugar, 1⁄2 teaspoon vinegar and the salt. Whisk until the mixture starts to foam and then remove the bowl from the top of the pan to a cool surface. Continue whisking until the mixture reaches the ribbon stage. Pour onto the base of the flan and return to the oven until the filling has risen and is firm to the touch —about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven to a cooling rack and allow the filling to sink back into the shell. This is the first layer of the flan. 4. Melt the 6 ounces of chocolate and add the water and egg yolks. Whisk until combined. Spoon half of the chocolate mix over the top of the sunken filling and return the flan to the oven for a further 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow the flan to cool completely. This is the second layer of the flan. 5. Beat the cream and cinnamon until stiff and carefully spread half of the mix onto the flan. This is the third layer. 6. Fold the remaining cream and cinnamon mix into the remaining chocolate mix and spread into the flan. This is the fourth layer. Sprinkle on the grated white chocolate and refrigerate until set; About 1 hour. Makes 8 portions
LIVE FREE and
Stratham, New Hampshire
A Taste of New Hampshire
Breweries Experience New Hampshire by the Glass Today’s New Hampshire beer scene thrives with a bumper crop of new breweries and beer bars amid the state’s established brew houses. There are over 33 breweries and that number is growing fast. Whether it’s a slopeside imperial pint, a nano-brewery taster, or samples at a brewfest, working New Hampshire beer into your next visit is a must-do.
Wine & Cheese Made for Each Other Explore New Hampshire’s countryside boasting with beautiful vineyards, rustic farms and picture perfect pastures with our Wine, Cheese and Chocolate Trails. As you meet the innkeepers and the local purveyors who supply the produce, cheese, chocolate, and wine, you will understand their passion for the beautiful surroundings.
Unique Dining Surprising Delights If you think we’re serving up traditional Yankee fare, you’re right and it’s yummy. But, there’s so much more. Experience restaurants offering everything from farm-to-table dinners with the freshest seasonal ingredients to hip eateries specializing in street food from around the world. You’ll find surprising delights throughout the Granite State to treat your inner foodie.
Plan your summer vacation today at visitnh.gov
Come feel the heat
Lunch & Dinner Dine In or Take Out
www.900degrees.com (603) 641-0900 50 Dow Street Manchester, NH
Menu and directions available online.
Fine Dining in the heart of downtown Manchester. Specializing in prime steaks, fresh seafood and extensive wine list.
Voted Best Steakhouse in 2006, 2008 2011, 2012 & 2013
603.644.2467 149 Hanover Street Manchester, NH hanoverstreetchophouse.com
30 SUMMER 2014
66 Marcy Street, Portsmouth, NH 03801 603.433.2340 www.mamborestaurant.com www.mamborestaurant.com
A favorite dining destination on the harbor in Portsmouth, dedicated to bringing guests closer to the food and community of the NH Seacoast.
29 CERES STREET PORTSMOUTH 603 431 0887 blacktrumpetbistro.com
B Y P. K . E D W A R D S
t is truly a rite (and right) of summer to sit down to a steaming hot, sweet, succulent specimen of homarus americanus, or the lobsters we favor here in New England. If you seek out the seaside lobster shacks, docks and piers that we love best, you may find yourself bundling up on a May evening or warming your hands around a cup of chowder in late September. But in high summer, though often crowded, these iconic eateries, are timeless, tasty and one of the highest points of summer. A few things to ponder.
Dress for being splattered. So many of my summer shirts now sport perma-butter spots that I have a collection I wear virtually only when I’m going to face off against a lobster in the shell. And cracking open a claw, you may find yourself spraying your dining companion with lobster juice. That’s okay. You may be able to get revenge.
The bib. I never say a bad word about the classic plastic lobster bibs that generally come with your lobster. Nor do I wear them. I don’t like the feel of the plastic around my neck, and as a kid, it was a matter of honor not to look like a tourist, even though we were summer people. But not everyone wants to wear pre-stained clothing to go out to eat the way I do.
Hard shell vs. soft shell. The debate rages, even in the placid halls of Northeast FLAVOR. I am squarely in the soft shell court as they are easier to crack, juicier, more poached than boiled, not to mention usually being cheaper. Those in the hard shell camp go for return on investment, figuring that there is simply more meat in the shell. Chacun à son goût.
Body meat? If I were served the body before claws and tail, I would eat it. But after a whole lobster I’m generally not hungry enough to pick through a smallish lobster. After you get to about a pound and a half, the chunks are big enough to warrant a bit of browsing. Also, I’m not shy about asking to take home the bodies to make stock.
Mike Urban is the author of Lobster Shacks: A Road-Trip Guide to New England’s Best Lobster Joints. (Countryman Press, paperback, $18.95). Mike is a veteran lobster eater and in the it’s-a-dirty-job-butsomeone’s-got-to-do-it spirit, set out to chronicle his favorites and some of the most iconic lobster piers and shacks, in New England. He travels from Connecticut and Rhode Island all the way to Down East Maine. With well over 60 locations visited we had to narrow it down to our favorite type of place, namely the lobsterin-the-rough (or something similar), with a gorgeous view. Many are BYOB. See our random and abbreviated list on the next page. Some are Mike’s picks, some are our readers and ours but there’s a lot of overlap! You’ll find Mike and his book a very fine guide.
NEF: Did you get sick of lobster by the time you finished your research? MU: I never get sick of lobster! However, there were a couple of times during my research when I partook of two or more lobster meals (whole or roll) in a day, and the needle on my Lobstero-Meter approached dangerously close to the “That’s enough!” level. But I persevered!
NEF: Hot lobster rolls or cold and why? MU: Having lived in Connecticut for the past 20+ years, hot, buttered lobster rolls are what I'm most familiar with, and the hot version is probably my favorite. However, in the course of my research for the book, I developed a true appreciation for the cold version, especially on Cape Cod and in Maine, where cold rolls still prevail.
NEF: Tomalley and roe or no? MU: Both are an acquired taste, and though I partake when I encounter them in a freshly cooked “bug,” I tend to use them more in making chowders and bisques. They're great flavor boosters.
NEF: What’s your favorite thing to drink with lobster? MU: A good, stiff chardonnay is my favorite beverage with lobster in the evening. And at midday lobster feasts, you can’t beat a good, old-fashioned bottle of New England birch beer!
The problem with a list like this is that we’re bound to leave out some worthy contender. So, our criteria, for these establishments, somewhat randomly were: • A lobster in the rough setting • Outdoor seating • Great views • Whole boiled or steamed lobsters on the menu We relied on personal experience or recommendations from trusted sources, including Mike Urban’s Lobster Shacks: A RoadTrip Guide to New England’s Best Lobster Joints (Countryman Press, 2012) and Lobster Rolls of New England by Sally Lerman (History Press, 2014). If we’ve left out your favorite, please, no hate mail! Contact us on Facebook and tell us what we left out and why. If we left out your best-kept secret, well, it can stay that way! So. From roughly west to east, here we go.
Champlin’s Seafood Restaurant 256 Great Island Road Narragansett, RI • (401) 783-3152
This began as a seafood market in 1932, and morphed into a lobster in the rough spot in the 1960s. Mike says, “Watch out for the clambake,” which includes lobster, mussels, corn on the cob, fried flounder and Italian sausage. Lobster Landing 152 Commerce Street Clinton, CT • (860) 669-2005
Mike describes this marina-side lobster shack as “a delightfully dilapidated little shack on the water.” He writes that owners Enea and Cathi Bacci have lovingly developed this little seaside shack into “a cultural and culinary magnet.” *Also recommended by Jacques Pepin!
Abbott’s Lobster in the Rough 117 Pearl Street Noank, CT • (860) 536-7719
According to Mike, Abbot’s inspires a sort of “fanaticism” . . . among its large and loyal fan base. Founded more than 50 years ago, “This place is the King Kong of lobster shacks in Southern New England. . .their hot lobster roll is famous.” Mac’s Seafood Town Pier 265 Commercial Street Wellfleet, MA • (508) 349-9611
Though Mac’s is a full service restaurant with a locavore ethos, there are picnic tables next to the town beach with beautiful sunset views. Lobster, sand, sun, surf and seafood!
The Lobster Pool 329 Granite Street Rockport, MA • (978) 546-7808
The Clam Shack 2 Western Avenue Kennebunk, ME • (207) 967-3321
This is one of the most highly recommended lobster joints in New England. Just beyond Halibut Point State Park, The Lobster Pool has for years been the go-to spot for tourists and locals alike. Gorgeous views, the freshest lobsters, oysters and clams and BYOB.
This modest spot by the Kennebunk River, just before you enter the village offers insanely good lobster rolls along with great whole lobsters and deep fried seafood. They were Food Wars best lobster roll winner, and their custom buns are delivered fresh every day.
Brown’s Lobster Pound 407 New Hampshire 286 Seabrook, NH • (603) 474-3331
Cape Pier Chowder House 79 Pier Road Cape Porpoise, ME • (207) 967-0123
Since 1947, they’ve been catching and selling lobsters. Situated right on the Blackwater River, large decks and indoor and outdoor seating. At high tide you’ll be not just on the water, but above it. Great lobster, lobster rolls and seafood.
Located on a fishing dock, you’ll get a sense of what a working lobster pier feels like. As Mike says, “Simplicity rules,” and you’ll probably learn a few things about the business of lobstering while you enjoy your feast.
Petey’s Summertime Seafood and Bar 1323 Ocean Boulevard Rye, NH • (603) 433-1937
Bayley’s Lobster Pound 9 Avenue 6, Pine Point Scarborough, ME • (207) 883-4571
Mike describes Petey’s as “a two story funhouse.” There are great views of the beach, great lobster, seafood and award winning chowder, not to mention a wild collection of lobster buoys painted in day glow colors. “You can’t miss it!” as the saying goes.
Dating back to 1916, this is one of the oldest family run lobster operations in Maine. They also claim to have invented the lobster roll! Gorgeous views of sea and salt marsh.
Chauncey Creek Lobster Pier 16 Chauncey Creek Road Kittery Point, ME • (207) 439-1030
Descendant Ron Spinney now runs this multi-generational establishment founded by the Witham family. Situated right over tidal Chauncey Creek, face west and you’ll look towards a broad picturesque cove. This is the ultimate BYO place with parties sporting tablecloths, candles and even the silver candlesticks on special occasions. At FLAVOR, this is our go-to lobster pier! Barnacle Billy’s 50-70 Perkins Cove Ogunquit, ME • (207) 646-5575
Barnacle Billy’s opened more than 50 years ago, and overlooks almost ridiculously quaint Perkins Cove. Lobster shacks and valet parking aren’t usually a pairing, but the Cove is so small and parking so tight, it’s great to have the option. You’ll find a working harbor as well as sightseeing boats coming and going.
Lobster Shack Two Lights 225 Two Lights Road Cape Elizabeth, ME • (207) 799-1677
People have come to this rocky point of land to eat lobster since the 1920s, when a small operation sold lobster rolls until they ran out. Ruth and Jim Leadbetter purchased the place in 1968 and opened The Lobster Shack in 1969. The business has remained in the family ever since, and the family recipes passed down. Gorgeous views and great outdoor and indoor seating. Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster 36 Main Street, South Freeport, ME • (207) 865-3535
After a day of outlet shopping, belly up to the window of the lobster pound. The fried seafood operation is separate, and for our purposes, this pound is where you’re going to end up for a boiled lobster dinner, with steamers and corn on the cob. Holbrooks’ Lobster and Seafood Grille 984 Cundy’s Harbor Road Harpswell, ME • (207) 729-9050
This picturesque pier overlooking Cundy’s Harbor was saved from commercial development by a foundation of residents who banded together to
save the working waterfront. Part of this includes Holbrook’s, which is operated by Gilmore’s, a topnotch seafood market in Bath, Maine. The Dip Net at the Port Clyde General Store 1 Cold Storage Road Port Clyde, Maine • (207) 372-1112
This picturesque spot has been serving up great lobsters for decades. It is also the ferry landing for the Monhegan boat and a popular spot for yachtsmen to provision or lay over. This establishment was recently purchased by Linda Bean (as in L.L. Bean) and serves perfect Maine lobster on the deck overlooking the harbor. Shaw’s Fish and Seafood 129 State Rte 32 New Harbor, ME 04554 • (207) 677-2200
New Harbor is a bona fide Maine fishing village. The pace hasn’t changed much in many years and Shaw’s Wharf is home to many local lobster boats. You can dine on the deck or grab a seat at the raw bar for local bivalves and a libation. The view of the harbor is superb. Abel's Lobster Pound 13 Abel’s Lane Route 198 Mount Desert, ME • (207) 276-5827
Abel’s has been serving up lobster since 1938. Their outdoor seating overlooks Somes Sound, a fjord that runs up the center of Mount Desert Island. Spectacular views, torch lit evening dining, boats coming and going and as Mike reports, an occasional Bald Eagle sighting. Stewman’s Oceanfront Lobster Pound 35 West Street Bar Harbor, ME 04609 • (207) 288-0346
Though Stewman’s has changed hands and is no longer family owned, it has retained much of its Down East charm. There is a bar on each level with great views. A bustling scene with great table service. Quoddy Bay Lobster 7 Sea Street Eastport, ME • (207) 853-6640
Although a relative newcomer by Maine lobster shack standards, the family that owns this has decades of local lobstering history. Mike reports that one of the grandmothers still picks fresh crabmeat, which is rapidly becoming a lost art. The view across the bay is no longer U.S. territory. You’re looking at Canada! NORTHEASTFLAVOR.COM
Lobster Pot Pies with Puff Pastry Hats Ramekins hold nuggets of lobster nestled in a sherry-and-tarragon-laced cream sauce and are topped with a crisp puff pastry “hat.” Complete this elegant meal with a mesclun salad strewn with toasted pecans and gorgonzola.
When you’ve tired of boiled lobster try these recipes from Lobster! by Brooke Dojny, photography by Sabra Krock used with permission from Storey Publishing.
Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder This is an utterly delicious and gorgeous-tolook-at chowder, with its nuggets of yellow corn, pink-tinged lobster meat, and flecks of green thyme. The author gives instructions in her book on how to boil the lobsters, remove the meat and make your own lobster stock. This is well worth doing if you have the time, but here we’ve shortened the process. 1 pound lobster meat, roughly chopped ⁄4 pound bacon, chopped 1 large onion, chopped 1 large celery stalk, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 ⁄2 cup dry white wine 5 cups lobster stock (or use clam juice or seafood stock) 4 medium all-purpose potatoes, peeled and diced (about 4 cups) 4 ears corn, kernels cut from the cob, or 2 cups frozen kernels 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme 2 cups heavy cream 1 ⁄4 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1
36 SUMMER 2014
Freshly ground black pepper 6 tablespoons butter
1. Cook the bacon in a large soup pot over medium-low heat until the fat is rendered and the bacon is crisp, about 15 minutes. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towels, crumble and reserve. Add the onion and celery to the fat in the pot and cook over medium-high heat until softened, about 5 minutes. 2. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the wine and the 5 cups broth, and bring to a boil, stirring. Add the potatoes, corn, and thyme, and return to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the potatoes are almost tender, about 15 minutes. 3. Add the lobster meat, cream, and cayenne, and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper as necessary. Cut the butter into chunks and add to the chowder to melt. You can serve immediately, but the chowder will be even more flavorful if you refrigerate it overnight. 4. Reheat the reserved bacon bits. Ladle the chowder into soup bowls, sprinkle with the bacon, and serve. Serves 6
Note: Seafood broth or stock can often be found in supermarkets near the chicken and beef broth. Bottled clam juice is shelved with the canned seafood. If the clam juice is salty, dilute with water.
5 tablespoons butter 2 cups thinly sliced leeks, white and light green parts only 3 ⁄4 cup finely diced carrots 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 11⁄2 cups seafood broth or clam juice 1 ⁄2 cup heavy cream 3 tablespoons dry sherry 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest 1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon 1 teaspoon salt 1 ⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 ⁄8 teaspoon cayenne pepper 3 cups roughly chopped cooked lobster meat (1 pound) 3 ⁄4 cup tiny frozen peas 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed but well chilled 1 egg, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water
1. Melt the butter in a large skillet or saucepan. Add the leeks and carrots and cook, covered, over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the carrots are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle on the flour, raise the heat to high, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the broth and cream, bring to a boil, and cook, stirring, until the sauce is smooth and thickened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the sherry, lemon zest, and tarragon, and season with the salt, black pepper, and cayenne. 2. Distribute the lobster in the bottoms of four buttered 12- to 16-ounce ramekins, scatter with the peas, and pour the sauce over. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 8 hours. 3. On a lightly floured board, roll out the puff pastry to a 9” x 13” rectangle. Cut out shapes slightly smaller than the interior of the ramekins, arrange on a baking sheet, and place in the freezer until ready to bake. 4. Preheat the oven to 425ºF. 5. Uncover the ramekins, place the cut-out puff pastry atop the sauce, and brush the pastry with the egg wash. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 375ºF and bake for 25 to 30 minutes more, until the pastry is deep golden brown and puffed and the filling is hot and bubbly. Let the pot pies cool slightly and serve. Serves 4
Lobster Soft Tacos Tortillas can be heated in a microwave or one at a time in a hot skillet. To round out the meal, think refried beans or pinto beans spiked with vinegar and topped with cheese. 2 cups chopped cooked lobster meat (10 ounces) 2 tablespoons lime juice 8 to 12 (6-inch) corn tortillas 2 ripe avocadoes, pitted, peeled, and sliced Salt and freshly ground black pepper Hot sauce or fresh salsa 1 cup finely shredded cabbage 11⁄2 cups shredded mixed Mexican cheeses (see note) 3 ⁄4 cup fresh cilantro sprigs, stemmed Lime wedges (optional)
1. Toss the lobster with the lime juice in a small bowl. 2. Warm the tortillas. 3. For each taco, spread a layer of sliced avocado, mashing it slightly if desired, on a tortilla. Season with salt and pepper and add a drizzle of hot sauce or dollop of salsa. Add a layer of lobster and scatter with cabbage, cheese, and cilantro. Squeeze additional lime juice over the tops if desired, roll up, and eat. Notes: 1. Cook two 11⁄4-pound hard-shell lobsters or three 1-pound softshells and remove the meat or buy picked-out meat. 2. Several companies produce shredded Mexican cheese blends, which include such cheese varieties as Monterey Jack, mild cheddar, queso quesadilla, and asadero. Serves 3 to 4, depending on appetites
IN THE GLASS | Spirits
Poptails: Frozen Treats for Grown-Ups B Y P. K . E D W A R D S
I HAVE VERY PARTICULAR memories of popsicles. It was usually the kind with two wooden sticks, with a valley running down the middle. They were generally shared with my brother, broken in half by my mother’s deft hand. If it was a big treat day, we each had our own. I was into grape, my brother orange. These were colors of course — not likely there was much actual juice. But now popsicles have taken on a new identity — from all-fruit pops in the grocery store to the killer creations like from People’s Pops in Brooklyn, New York — that hub of culinary creativity. Read on for some grown up pops to keep you cool and happy this summer! The following recipes are reprinted with permission from People’s Pops by Nathalie Jordi, David Carrell and Joel Horowitz (Ten Speed Press, © 2012). Photographs by Jennifer May. Editor’s note: The shop in Brooklyn does not serve popsicles made with alcohol. These recipes are for grown-up home enjoyment.
38 SUMMER 2014
Cucumber, Elderflower & Tequila 11⁄3 pounds cucumbers (about 3 medium), peeled and seeded 1 ⁄3 cup (3 fl oz) elderflower syrup* 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 ⁄4 to 1⁄3 cup (2 to 3 fl oz) tequila
1. Finely purée the cucumbers in a food processor. You should have about 21⁄2 cups (20 fl oz) of purée. 2. Transfer the puréed cucumbers to a bowl or measuring pitcher with a pouring spout and stir in the elderflower syrup and lemon juice, and then the tequila. Taste and adjust but be careful not to overdo the tequila because too much will keep the pop from freezing. 3. Pour the mixture into your ice pop molds, leaving a little bit of room at the top for the mixture to expand. Insert sticks and freeze until solid, 4 to 5 hours. Unmold and transfer to plastic bags for storage or serve at once. Makes 10 pops
*Note: Elderflower syrup is available at health food stores or through online retailers
Blueberry Moonshine 1 pound 6 ounces (43⁄4 cups) blueberries 2 ⁄3 cup (5 fl oz) simple syrup (recipe below) 2 tablespoons (1 fl oz) freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 ⁄3 cup (3 fl oz) moonshine
1. Pick out any stems or leaves from the blueberries and purée them in a food processor. You should have about 21⁄4 cups (18 fl oz) of purée. 2. Combine the puréed blueberries, simple syrup, and lemon juice in a bowl or measuring pitcher with a pouring spout. Taste; the precise amount of simple syrup and lemon juice needed will depend on how sweet the berries were to begin with. Be aware that blueberries are one of the rare fruits that you don’t want to oversweeten because they tend to get sweeter as they freeze. Stir in the moonshine. 3. If you wish, now is the time to strain out the skins by pressing the gloppy blueberry mixture though a colander or sieve using a wooden spoon, a rubber spatula, or your fist (blueberries stain skin, so those choosing the third route might want to wear gloves). Or don’t, and leave them in.
4. Pour the mixture into your ice pop molds, leaving a little bit of room at the top for the mixture to expand. Insert sticks and freeze until solid, 4 to 5 hours. Unmold and transfer to plastic bags for storage or serve at once. Makes 10 pops
Note: When making any type of boozy pop, pour lightly, because alcohol — and moonshine in particular, it seems — makes the pops really fragile. Simple Syrup 2
⁄3 cup (5 oz) organic cane sugar ⁄3 cup (5 fl oz) water
1. Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is transparent. 2. Turn off the heat and let cool. Store plain and infused syrups in sealed containers in the fridge. Makes 1 cup (8 fl oz) Note: Add any spices before the mixture starts to
simmer; add any herbs only after you’ve turned off the heat.
Cantaloupe & Campari 1 cantaloupe, about 2 pounds, peeled and seeded (see note below) 3 ⁄4 cup (6 fl oz) simple syrup (recipe above) 1 ⁄4 cup (2 fl oz) Campari
1. Cut the cantaloupe into large chunks and purée in a food processor. You should have about 21⁄4 cups (18 fl oz) of purée. 2. Transfer the puréed cantaloupe to a bowl or measuring pitcher with a pouring spout. Add the simple syrup until the cantaloupe tastes quite sweet. Now dribble in the Campari until you can detect its flavor. Campari is less alcoholic than most spirits, so this mixture can handle more of it, but it has such a strong presence that you want to be careful not to overdo it. 3. Pour the mixture into your ice pop molds, leaving a little bit of room at the top for the mixture to expand. Insert sticks and freeze until solid, 4 to 5 hours. Unmold and transfer to plastic bags for storage or serve at once.
Note: Okay, okay. We know we already anointed peaches as the epitome of summer, but melons, those buxom orbs with their waffle-weave shells and floral aroma, are without a doubt another high point. A table stacked tall with gorgeous melons makes us lusty like no other fruit. To prep a cantaloupe for puréeing cut it around its equator and scoop out and dump the seeds and fibers inside. Set each half on a cutting board, cut side down, and lop 1⁄2 inch off the top horizontally so that you’ve cut off a flap approximately the size of a circle made by your thumb and finger. Now get the rest of the rind off by slicing longitudinally, as if you had the northern hemisphere on your cutting board and were cutting the surface off each time zone around the world. Once you’re done with both hemispheres, your cantaloupe is ready to purée. Buy only cantaloupes that smell delicious even before cutting because a scentless cantaloupe is probably a flavorless one. Cantaloupe pairs beautifully with lavender, hyssop and tequila.
Makes 10 pops
LOCAL + SUSTAINABLE | Seasonal Flavors
Watermelon Equals Summer BY MARK R. VOGEL
THE WATERMELON IS AN iconic summer fruit, a sweet, cool and refreshing treat that no barbeque or summer picnic should be without. And while the watermelon is unequivocally considered an American summer staple, its roots are worlds and millennia away. Watermelons are indigenous to Africa. The ancient Egyptians were cultivating them more than 4,000 years ago. Watermelon seeds were even found in the tomb of King Tut. From the Dark Continent they spread to the Mediterranean region, then to India and finally to China in the tenth through twelfth centuries. China is now the world’s largest watermelon producer. European slave traders introduced them to the Americas in the sixteen hundreds, the same century that the watermelon received its current name. Prior to that they were referred to as citrul (a word with French and Italian origins for citrus), or pasteque, a Frenchmorphed Arab word for watermelon.
VARIETIES There are over twelve hundred varieties of watermelon ranging from one pound to two hundred pounds. While your average supermarket melon evinces a red colored flesh, there are varieties that sport an orange, white or yellow hue. “Seedless” varieties are somewhat of a misnomer. They still contain small, white, edible seeds. And while seedless varieties are more convenient, industrial production has led to a dwindling harvest of heirloom varieties, so seek out watermelons at your local farmers’ market or farmstand in late summer.
NUTRITION Despite being ninety-two percent water, watermelons are a good source of vitamins A and C and also contain lycopene, a carotenoid phytonutrient that’s especially important for cardiovascular health, and is
40 SUMMER 2014
Grilled S p Waterme icy lon
reputed to have anti-cancer properties. Researchers now believe that lycopene is important for bone health as well. Among whole, fresh fruits that are commonly eaten in the U.S., watermelon now accounts for more of our intake of lycopene (by weight of fruit eaten) than any other fruit. And, of course, watermelon is fat-free and low in calories. There are a number of other nutrients in the rind. In China the rind is pickled, stir-fried and stewed. The Chinese are also fond of the seeds and roast them. Watermelon juice can be made into wine.
HOW TO SELECT & STORE How do you choose a ripe one? First, select a specimen that is symmetrical, firm, and free of any bruises or soft spots. Pick it up. It should feel heavy for its size. Is the one side slightly flat with a yellowish spot? That’s good. That’s where the watermelon rested on the ground ripening in the sun.
Then there’s the thump test: the idea is that knocking on the watermelon can ascertain its ripeness. I had my doubts about this snippet of common wisdom so I called the National Watermelon Association, a large multi-state organization of watermelon growers, and spoke to one of their representatives. Sure enough, they concurred. The woman I spoke to said to thump the watermelon. If a hollow, resonating sound ensues, you are knocking on a ripe one. Uncut watermelons can be left at room temperature for up to two weeks but I’d recommend using them within a week. Like any natural product, age does not bode well for taste. Try to avoid purchasing pre-cut watermelon unless you plan to use it expediently. Once cut, the watermelon must be refrigerated.
Recipes on page 42.
Recipes and photographs courtesy of the National Watermelon Promotion Board.
Lemony Quinoa and Watermelon Salad
(recipe on p.44)
LOCAL + SUSTAINABLE | Seasonal Flavors
Greek Pita Flatbread with Watermelon 4 wedges seeded watermelon 1 cup diced cooked chicken 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro 2 tablespoons Greek yogurt 1 ⁄4 teaspoon garlic salt Dash cayenne pepper 2 whole pita breads, halved or whole-grain flatbreads 1 ⁄4 cup prepared spreadable herb cheese 4 large lettuce leaves
1. Place sliced watermelon on paper towels to remove excess liquid. Mix chicken, cilantro, yogurt, garlic salt and cayenne. 2. Spread inside surfaces of pita bread halves with herbed cheese and fill each with about 1⁄4 cup chicken mixture. Arrange watermelon and lettuce in pita bread. Watermelon Raspberry Vinaigrette 1 cup cubed seeded watermelon 1 ⁄2 cup fresh or frozen raspberries 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon raspberry vinegar
1. In blender or food processor, process watermelon and raspberries until liquefied. Add honey and vinegar, pulse until blended. 2. Cover and store in refrigerator. Shake well before using.
Greek Pita Flatbread with Watermelon
Editor’s note: The first two recipes that follow were created by Chef Vogel. The remaining recipes are reprinted with permission from the National Watermelon Promotion Board.
Sweet Watermelon Salad 1 cup pomegranate juice 1 ⁄2 cup white grape juice 1 cup sugar 1 small-medium seedless, (or seeds removed) watermelon, chopped into bite size chunks 1 pint green seedless grapes 1 pint strawberries, hulled and cut into quarters 1 tablespoon lemon juice Mint chiffonade, as needed
1. In a saucepan combine the pomegranate juice, grape juice and sugar. On medium heat whisk until
42 SUMMER 2014
the sugar dissolves and the liquid becomes syrupy. Remove from heat and allow the syrup to cool. 2. Combine the syrup and the fruit in a large bowl. Sprinkle with the lemon juice and a generous amount of the mint. To make a mint chiffonade, stack a number of the mint leaves and tightly roll them vertically like a cigar. Then make thin slices from end to end. Watermelon Cooler
Grilled Spicy Watermelon Transform watermelon from sweet to savory with this mouthwatering Thai-inspired sauce. Watermelon wedges are grilled until caramelized, drizzled with garlic chili sauce and garnished with cilantro. Serve as a side dish along with ribs, chicken or shrimp. 1 tablespoon lime zest ⁄4 cup lime juice 1 ⁄4 cup honey, divided 2 teaspoons garlic chili sauce Pinch salt 1 medium-sized watermelon 1 tablespoon fresh chopped cilantro 1
11⁄2 to 2 pounds (not counting the rind) seedless watermelon cut into large chunks. 1 pint spring water 1 ⁄2 cup sugar
Whiz all the ingredients in a blender and then pour it through a sieve. This is an awesomely tasty and refreshing summer drink.
1. Preheat grill to high. In bowl, whisk together, lime zest, juice, 3 tablespoons of the honey, garlic chili sauce and salt. 2. Cut watermelon into 1-inch thick wedges.
LOCAL + SUSTAINABLE | Seasonal Flavors
Lightly drizzle each side with remaining honey and place on grill. Grill until just browned, about 2 minutes per side. 3. Place watermelon slices on a plate and drizzle with lime dressing. Garnish with cilantro. Makes 8 to10 servings.
Tip: Garlic chili sauce also makes a great marinade for ribs, chicken and shrimp. Mediterranean Watermelon Salad 6 cups torn mixed salad greens 3 cups cubed seeded watermelon 1 ⁄2 cup sliced onion 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 ⁄3 cup crumbled feta cheese Cracked black pepper
In large bowl, mix all ingredients except oil and pepper. Just before serving, toss salad mixture with oil. Garnish with pepper. Serves 6
Lemony Quinoa and Watermelon Salad Adding a bit of fat from the nuts helps boost absorption of the lycopene in watermelon, a compound that helps lower the risk for cancer and heart disease. 4 tablespoons agave syrup 5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 4 tablespoons lemon zest 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar Salt to taste 2 cups cooked black quinoa 23⁄4 cups watermelon cubes 1 kiwi, peeled and diced 4 tablespoons shredded coconut 1 ⁄2 cup candied pecans (recipe below) Mint sprigs, to garnish
1. In a medium bowl, blend thoroughly the agave syrup, lemon juice, lemon zest, vinegar, and salt. Add the quinoa and toss until fully coated. Set aside to allow flavors to blend. 2. Add the watermelon, kiwi, coconut, and nuts. Toss to combine. 3. Divide into four bowls and garnish each with a mint sprig. Serves 4 For the candied pecans
Toss 1⁄2 cup pecans with 1 teaspoon olive oil. Mix
44 SUMMER 2014
Watermelon Pomegranate Toss
a dash each of ground cardamon, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cayenne, cumin, and salt with 1 tablespoon powdered sugar. Toss nuts with this spice blend and roast in a 350ºF oven for 10 to 12 minutes or until crisp, stirring occasionally. Cool. Watermelon Pomegranate Toss (or The Red Eye Special Salad) This salad supplies more than half your day’s need for the B vitamin, folate, the entire day’s need for vitamin A, and hefty doses of vitamin C, iron, magnesium, calcium, and antioxidants. It also is rich in lutein and zeaxanthin, two compounds shown to protect eyes from vision loss. For the dressing 1 cup pomegranate juice 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar (Pomegranate vinegar is the best) 11⁄2 tablespoons orange zest 1 tablespoon agave syrup 1 small shallot, minced 1 ⁄8 teaspoon stone-ground mustard
⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper to taste For the salad 8 cups baby spinach (one 6-ounce bag or carton) 3 ⁄4 cup diced red onion 2 cups diced watermelon (placed on paper towel to drain excess fluid) 1 clamshell (6 ounces) fresh raspberries 1 ⁄2 cup pomegranate seeds
1. Place juice in a small saucepan over mediumhigh heat and simmer until reduced to about 3 tablespoons and liquid is a thick syrup. Set aside. When cool, add remaining dressing ingredients, from vinegar to salt and pepper. Whip. Set aside for flavors to blend. Makes about 3⁄4 cup. 2. Place spinach in a large serving bowl. Top with onion, watermelon, raspberries, and pomegranate seeds. Divide onto 4 salad plates and drizzle with dressing. Serves 4
Images from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds, courtesy of Hobby Greenhouse.
LOCAL + SUSTAINABLE | Flavor Focus
Clockwise from top, left: Pink Brandywine; Black Krim; Riestomate; Yellow Pear; Cherokee Purple.
Tomatoes with a History B Y PA U L A S Z I L A R D WHEN THE TOMATO FIRST reached Europe around 1550 from its ancestral home in the Andes, it was a very small yellow round fruit no bigger than a cherry. Hence, the Italian name “pomodoro” or golden apple. True, tomatoes were domesticated in Mexico well before they reached Italy and Spain, but the Italians were largely responsible for creating the tomatoes we have today. At that time, Europeans still weren’t sure the tomato was safe to eat. It languished for another 200 years, cultivated only as a curiosity, but the fearless Italians saw the potential in this fruit. They not only ate it and lived to tell the tale, but they also selected the best varieties and bred larger and better fruit. The Spanish were also early adopters, having received shipments from their colonies in the New World. They likewise made extensive use of the tomato in their cuisine, but not as abundantly as the Italians. From these two countries the tomato spread to France.
46 SUMMER 2014
And from there it conquered the world. Early in their history tomatoes were a hard sell, but they became so popular in Europe that in 1812 they arrived back in the New World via New Orleans. It is said that Thomas Jefferson himself smuggled
Around 1840, the tomato took oﬀ like wildﬁre. in seeds from France. Then around 1840, the tomato took off like wildfire. A prominent horticulturist in New England, by the name of Fearing Burr, wrote in 1863, in his classic book, Field and Garden Vegetables of America, that cultivation had increased four-fold in the previous 20 years and that tomatoes were “so universally enjoyed” that they were served in one form or another during every season of the year.
The person most responsible for the tomato’s success in America was an Ohio seedsman named Alexander Livingston, who bred for flavor and smooth skin. He developed more than a dozen very popular varieties in the late 1800’s, becoming the undisputed leader of American tomato breeding. Some of his tomato varieties, such as Golden Queen and Paragon, are still in our heirloom repertoire today. Most of the old varieties, unfortunately, are now lost. Those that remain and have been passed down through the generations for at least 50 years are legitimately referred to as heirloom tomatoes. Some heirlooms were actually commercial introductions of the time and were then saved by gardeners. The key is that they are all open-pollinated, in other words, not hybrids. Unlike hybrids, these plants come from seed. Many of them produce larger fruits and therefore need a longer growing season. A considerable number
require a growing season of 80-90 days from planting out. As Americans have become more discerning in their tomato preferences, garden centers have begun offering more heirloom varieties. Heirloom growers with a penchant for the more unusual varieties grow their own plants from seed, and most farmers’ markets sport a delectable array by mid-to-late summer. Also, heirloom seeds are now much easier to find, thanks to the Seed Savers Exchange (www.seedsavers.org) and a growing number of commercial seed companies making them available. The following are some popular heirloom varieties.
Brandywine This legendary tomato is considered by many connoisseurs to be the best with the most complex flavor. It is large and may need up to 100 days to ripen. There are many Brandywine varieties.
Mediterran ean Summer Pa sta (recipe on p. 48)
Black Krim This Russian variety is fast gaining popularity. Connoisseurs have described this tomato as exotic and musky, even smoky.
Cherokee Purple So named because it is said to come from the Cherokee Indians and has a purplish skin. It is said to rival the Brandywine in flavor.
Riesentraube This grape tomato, as its German name indicates, consists of giant bunches of grapes. There may be up to 350 blossoms in a floral spray. The flavor is considered fruity and full.
Yellow Pear Attractive in appearance, but mildly flavored, this tomato is a favorite mostly because it’s so pretty in a salad or on a crudites tray.
Green Zebra This small ripe-when-green tomato is a small yellowish green fruit with green striping. Connoisseurs consider it full flavored and spicy.
These first two recipes come from The Four Season Farm Gardener's Cookbook, by groundbreaking organic gardeners, Eliot Coleman and Barbara Damrosch. Recipes and images courtesy of Workman Publishing. See our review on page 60 for more about this wonderful book.
Mediterranean Summer Pasta This pasta dish is colorful to look at and quick to make on a warm day. Having a jar of homemade pesto in the fridge makes for a handy shortcut. 1
⁄4 cup pine nuts 8 ounces narrow egg noodles, such as tagliolini 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 ⁄4 cup pesto sauce (see Note below) Juice of 1 lemon (about1⁄4 cup)
12 large, strongly flavored olives, such as Kalamatas, pitted and coarsely chopped 8 scallions (white and green parts), coarsely chopped 2 tablespoons capers, drained 30 dime-size or 15 quarter-size cherry tomatoes, left whole 1 ⁄4 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Recipe continued on the following page.
LOCAL + SUSTAINABLE | Flavor Focus
1. Have all the ingredients laid out and ready. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta. 2. While the water is heating, toast the pine nuts in a small dry skillet over very low heat, stirring them constantly, until they turn a pale tan color and give off their rich aroma, 3 to 5 minutes. Watch them carefully because they will burn very quickly if they get too hot. Set the nuts aside. 3. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook, following the directions on the package, until just tender. (Bite one with your front teeth to check.) Drain, and return the pasta to the pot. 4. Stir 2 tablespoons of the olive oil into the pasta. Then add the pesto, lemon juice, reserved pine nuts, olives, scallions, and capers. Stir briefly and cover the pot to keep warm. 5. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Then add the tomatoes and sauté, stirring constantly, until they brown slightly and soften but do not disintegrate, 5 to 6 minutes. If a few of them burst, it’s okay. Remove the skillet from the heat. 6. Place the pot containing the pasta over low heat and stir for 2 minutes to warm it further. Add the parsley and stir to combine. 7. Serve in a single large shallow bowl or in individual bowls, sprinkling the tomatoes over the top. Serves 2 to 4 as a main course
Note: Instead of making pesto, you could just add 1⁄2 cup chopped fresh basil leaves and 2 pressed cloves of garlic along with the other ingredients in Step 4, and then pass grated Parmesan cheese at the table. Custard-Stuffed Baked Tomatoes The simplicity of the custard filling makes it very smooth and tender. We like these for brunch, perhaps on a plate with grilled sausage, steamed kale, and warm crusty bread. 6 medium-size tomatoes 2 large eggs 1 cup heavy (whipping) cream Dash of salt Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 teaspoons finely minced fresh chervil or other soft fresh herbs such as tarragon, parsley, or basil
48 SUMMER 2014
Custard-Stuffed Baked Tomatoes
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 2. Hollow out each tomato from the stem end, leaving a generous opening at the top. You’ll need a small, sharp knife to cut along the ribs, and a small spoon to scoop out all the pulp, leaving as much of the wall as possible. A serrated grapefruit spoon works beautifully for this. Turn the tomatoes upside down to let the juice drain away. 3. To make the filling, combine the eggs, cream, salt, and pepper in a medium-size bowl, and beat lightly with an eggbeater or whisk. The mixture should be uniform but not foamy. 4. Smear the olive oil over the bottom of a small baking dish that is just large enough to hold the tomatoes upright. Set them in the dish and, using a spouted pitcher or measuring cup, pour the filling into the cavities so it reaches to within 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch from the top. 5. Bake until the filling is set and no longer jiggles when you gently shake the dish, or until a knife inserted in the center of the custard comes out clean, about 45 minutes. 6. Sprinkle with the chervil and serve warm. Serves 6 as a side dish
Summer Heirloom Tomato Cobb Salad FLAVOR advisor and host of Ciao Italia, Mary Ann Esposito uses her own heirloom tomatoes from her garden for these two recipes. Dressing 1 ⁄2 cup extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar Juice and zest of one lime 1 ⁄2 teaspoon honey 1 ⁄2 teaspoon spicy mustard 1 clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon salt 2 turns of the pepper mill Filling 2 cups shredded romaine lettuce 1 cup arugula leaves chopped 1 small Belgian endive, chopped 6 heirloom beefsteak tomatoes, tops cut off and reserved and tomato pulp removed and diced. Reserve whole tomato shells 1 avocado, diced
1 ⁄2 cup crumbled blue cheese 6 strips cooked bacon crumbled 2 large hard boiled eggs, diced 1 cup cooked and cubed boneless chicken breast or cooked ham 2 tablespoons fresh minced chives 2 tablespoons fresh minced parsley
1. In a medium size bowl whisk all the dressing ingredients together and set aside. 2. In a large bowl combine the lettuce, arugula, endive, diced tomato pulp and avocado. Toss gently with half of the dressing. Add the cheese, eggs, chicken or ham, chives and parsley and toss with remaining dressing. 3. Divide and fill the tomato shells. Replace tomato caps. 4. Place on individual salad dishes and serve. Serves 6
Poached Eggs in Purgatory 4 jumbo eggs 8 large plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 clove garlic, minced Salt and pepper to taste Lightly toasted crusty bread
1. Heat the olive oil in an oven-proof skillet,and simmer the chopped tomatoes for about 20 minutes over a gentle flame with the garlic, salt, and pepper. 2. While the tomatoes are cooking, preheat your oven to 360°F. Using the back of a spoon, make 4 shallow depressions in the tomatoes, and carefully crack the eggs into them. 3. Transfer the skillet to the oven, and cook just until the egg whites have set, about 3-5 minutes. The yolks should still be runny. Serve at once, with lightly toasted bread. Serves 4
“If you’re wrapping cheese in plastic, you’re doing it wrong.” BON APPÉTIT
“Wrapping cheese in plastic is lactic murder.” DETAILS
“Cheese lasts longer if stored in a breathable wrap instead of non-porous film.” THE SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE
TOMATO GROWING TIPS 1. After all danger of frost has passed, test your soil temperature. It must be at least 50ºF, 6 inches below the surface. You can warm it by using walls of water for earlier planting. 2. Select a sunny location. Tomatoes need a minimum of 6 hours of sunshine daily. 3. Plant plants deeply, especially if stems are weak, at least 3 feet apart. 4. Rotate your tomatoes and other solanaceous vegetables, such as peppers, potatoes and eggplants, planting them in the same location only every 3rd or 4th year. Admittedly, this is difficult in a small garden, but it helps soil-borne disease organisms from building up. 5. Water tomatoes regularly and evenly, applying about 1” of water per week. Good watering will help you avoid blossom end rot, a calcium deficiency which shows in garden tomatoes when plants are not consistently and evenly watered. It shows up in container grown tomatoes because potting mixes and most tomato fertilizers lack calcium. 6. Stake them using a steel fence post or a wooden stake. Save your nylon stockings to tie them up. 7. Cage your tomatoes. For best results, build cages from steel wire grids for reinforcing concrete, available at building supply stores. 8. Fertilize using a good tomato fertilizer, either organic or conventional. Do not use high nitrogen fertilizers. You will get leafy growth and less fruit. Use a fertilizer with roughly equal levels of nitrogen or phosphorus, with a little more potassium. 9. Mulch your plants. This not only saves water, but keeps soil from splashing up on the plants, lessening exposure to soil-borne disease.
“Formaticum Cheese Bags keep your cheese fresh far longer than any other homemade wrappings do.” “Worked for a solid two weeks. It’s a great investment” AMERICA’S TEST KITCHEN AVAILABLE AT
Crate&Barrel AND YOUR LOCAL CHEESE SHOP
10. It’s best not to water from the top, to avoid cracking of fruits. 11. Do not use herbicides anywhere near your tomatoes. Tomatoes are so sensitive to herbicide injury, horticulturists consider them an indicator plant. 12. When growing in containers, use a good quality potting mix, not garden soil, but be mindful of the fact that such mixes have virtually no nutrients. Most potting mixes have no calcium and unfortunately, neither do most tomato fertilizers, so sprinkle a little horticultural lime over the top of the potting mix.
BUY NOW AT FORM ATICUM .COM
NORTHEAST TRADITIONS | Community
In the Market and On a Budget B Y R O B L E V E Y | P H O T O G R A P H S B Y J E R RY H E L D IN THE PAST THEY were known as food stamps, but the term today is Electronic Benefit Transfer (EBT) or SNAP cards. Available through the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), these cards are an increasingly important source of income for farmers at farmers markets throughout New England, and a great benefit for those who are trying to eat healthfully on a limited budget.
How They Work In Vermont more than half of the state’s farmers markets accept EBT/ SNAP cards which Julie Patac, coordinator of Vermont Farmers’ Market, says may be used like credit cards. “All people need to do is go into the manager’s tent where the card is run like a credit card. For every dollar withdrawn from the account, the
50 SUMMER 2014
person receives a wooden token.” Generally worth $1 apiece, these tokens may then be used at any vendor within the farmers market provided the purchases are perishable and edible. In Maine approximately 90 markets accept the cards and for the most part they function the same way as in Vermont with one substantial difference. “When market managers run the cards, the terminal will display whether or not the person has available cash benefits,” noted Kelly Mills, Electronic Benefits Transfer Program Coordinator for the Maine Department of Health and Human Services. As is the case in Vermont, Mills noted Maine reimburses any fees incurred by individual farmers markets that accept EBT cards. “We also have grants that
subsidize equipment costs and start-up fees for farmers’ markets interested in accepting EBT cards ,” she added.
The Benefits According to Patac, the government’s focus on enhancing the ability of many farmers markets to accept EBT cards is notable for several reasons. “It’s great for the farmers because they get money for what they sell and it stays in Vermont,” she said. “It also creates a very good sense of community.” Despite the emphasis on promoting EBT card use at farmers markets, Patac acknowledges obstacles exist because many people still do not know they may be used at these venues. “Others are too shy to find out how it works and don’t want to ask questions,” she added.
As for future trends, Mills said people should not be surprised to find vendors at farmers’ markets who can accept payments with EBT cards through iPhones and iPads. “In the next couple of years, I think you’ll see more farmers’ markets moving away from wireless terminals,” she said. Noting that many are open year-round Patac said she believes the growing awareness of farmers markets highlights a fundamental fact that previously escaped the general population. “Farmers’ markets are not just tomatoes and potatoes,” she said. “Farmers are growing an increasing variety of fruits and vegetables you just can’t get at a supermarket — and the prices are comparable, too.” For more information about farmers’ markets in Vermont, visit www.vtfarmers market.org. For more information about Maine farmers’ markets, visit www.maine farmersmarkets.org. Visit www.northeast flavor.com for more links to New England farmers’ markets.
Kale Salad This budget friendly recipe from Owen’s Truck Farm in Holderness, NH makes a lot of servings but leftovers are great for packed lunches. It’s economical and super healthy. 2 bunches kale, stems removed, leaves torn or chopped into small pieces 1 large red onion A handful of seeds or nuts, such as sunflower, pumpkin, or walnuts (can be toasted too) 1 ⁄3 cup lemon juice 1 ⁄3 cup Bragg's Amino acid, or 1⁄4 cup tamari/soy sauce 1 ⁄3 cup olive oil
1. Slice onions thinly into large bowl. 2. Add liquids to bowl to marinate for at least 1⁄2 hour. 3. Throw in other ingredients. Toss and let stand. Note: We prefer to let salad marinate overnight in dressing before serving. Makes it more tender and yummy! So easy and a great way to enjoy powerhouse kale!
Asian Cole Slaw Cabbages and carrots are some of the most nutritious and affordable ingredients at your local market. Minimal amounts of other seasonings give this salad a fun twist. Dress only the amount of the slaw needed since it doesn’t keep well after it’s been tossed with the vegetables. Keep any vegetables in a resealable bag in the fridge and keep any remaining dressing in a jar. 3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar 2 tablespoons peanut oil 4 tablespoons peanut butter 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons brown sugar, packed 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 teaspoon minced ginger 1 teaspoon minced garlic 3 cups shredded green cabbage 2 cups shredded red cabbage 2 carrots, grated 2 scallions, thinly sliced
1. In a bowl or blender whisk together the vinegar, peanut oil, peanut butter, soy sauce, brown sugar, sesame oil, ginger and garlic. 2. Toss 1⁄2 of the two cabbages into a large bowl, add half the dressing and mix well with your hands or tongs. Add remaining cabbage, carrots, scallions and remaining dressing and toss again. Let rest for 5 minutes and serve. Potato Leek Soup 2 tablespoons butter 4 medium leeks, rinsed well and chopped into 1⁄2 inch slices 3 cups chicken stock 4 medium russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered 1 ⁄2 cup light cream 1 ⁄4 cup buttermilk Salt and white pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
1. Melt butter in a stockpot or large saucepan. Add leeks and sauté until soft. 2. Add stock and potatoes and simmer for 1⁄2 hour or until potatoes are soft. Add cream and buttermilk until heated through. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 3. Puree in a blender (or with an immersion blender) or food processor. 4. Divide between bowls and garnish with chives.
GET INSPIRED | In the Kitchen with…
Mr. Hirshberg Goes to Washington From Farm to Congress
BY JEAN KERR
FLAVOR EDITOR JEAN KERR caught up
NEF: In your mind, what’s the biggest challenge to consumers in terms of our food supply? GH: Trust and transparency. Countless surveys show that consumers do not trust companies to protect the purity of food and farming. And with good reason. In fact, even though crops genetically engineered to be herbicide tolerant are leading to hundreds of millions more pounds of herbicides being used, big food company lobbyists are trying to get Congress to define those foods as “natural”. But the U.S. Geological Survey tested rainwater in the Midwest and found that between 60-100% of the samples tested contained herbicides. We’re seeing higher levels of residues in our water and our food. I don’t think this is what consumers consider “natural”. What can consumers do to protect their food and health? The options are to eat and buy organic when and where you can. I don’t say that lightly as there is a greater expense, but I often tell people “cheap food isn’t cheap.” You may not be paying for it at the checkout counter but you’re paying for it somewhere, like in health care and environmental costs. We all know we can’t buy everything organic, but there are key foods that you really should be buying organic, like produce, and it’s going to sound self-serving, but dairy as well. Animals eat a lot of grass
52 SUMMER 2014
Photograph courtesy of Stonyfield Farm.
with Gary Hirshberg, Co-founder and Chairman of Stonyfield Farm based in Londonderry, New Hampshire. Gary spends much of his time in Washington, D.C. these days pushing for more transparent food labeling, promoting organic foods, and fighting industrial concerns that seek to obscure the level of toxins in our food.
and grain and if they’re getting a lot of pesticides in their system it’s concentrated. NEF: People often tell me they are confused about organic versus local. If we could all buy food that’s both local and organic that would be the ticket. But, no one should confuse the two. If you’re trying to protect yourself and your family not just from toxic residues from chemicals in food but also from hormones and antibiotics, then local doesn’t give you any guarantee. I have local farms not far from Stonyfield whose milk I would never buy. They are injecting growth hormones or raising [the livestock] in feedlots, or they’re using GMO feed. NEF: A lot of farmers in our farmers’ markets are just too small to get organic certification but their methods are organic. The idea that you are too small or that it’s too expensive to get certified is, I think,
a little bit of a cop out. Nonetheless, for some who feel that that is too high a cost for them, then at the very least, ask questions at your store, farmers markets and restaurants about the food and farm. The good news is that back when we started Stonyfield and probably for the first decade, there were dozens of different definitions of what Organic meant. Now, its a body of law, it’s certified, it’s something you can absolutely rely upon. And good news, in the last farm bill enforcement dollars were significantly increased. Ironically, the organic industry may be the only industry I know that has actually asked for more government regulation. The other thing I want to say about local is that I find it confusing. I was in California this winter and the state is so darn big that local can be the same distance as Florida is from New Hampshire. Similarly, I thought it was very funny the other day I was at a Whole
Foods store in New York City and they listed a yogurt made in New York State as local. As it happens, Londonderry, New Hampshire was closer to the store than the place in New York State. NEF: Was anything in your farming background able to prepare you for the battles you fight in Washington? (Laughs.) No! Washington these days is a scary place. And this kind of gets to one of your questions too. What can people do to protect themselves? Again, look for the organic label, it really does mean something. It’s a heavily fought for and hard-won standard. Next, I would say look for GMO free foods. Avoiding GMO ingredients means you are choosing not to support this skyrocketing pesticide and herbicide cycle. It’s a way of sending a message to our legislators, and to these large food companies. We need to be active and be really loud about the things we care about. It’s no longer enough to just buy correctly — I realize that if you are just trying to get through the day, you don’t need anything else to do, but you ought to at least sign petitions. And the one petition I hope you will join is at www.justlabelit.org and join the 1.5 million who have told the federal government that we want the right to know what’s in our food. And it’s really making a difference. Is there a definition of GMO? New England farmers have been cross-pollinating and grafting trees forever, and isn’t that a form of genetic modification? When we use the term genetically modified, it’s a very specific technical term. What it means is that you’re introducing genes into a living organism in a manner that could never happen in nature. It’s literally taking the genes from one species and combining them in a way that could never, ever happen naturally. It’s not breeding or propagation. How goes the battle in Washington as far as GMO labeling? It’s going very well. We have more Senate and House supporters than ever as more voters are making their voices heard. I’m feeling very bullish.
THIS THIS S SEPTEMBER EPTEMBER Let’s see what we can make together together..
Find out how you can help and become a pa part art of the FLA FLAVOR AVOR VOR R family family.. Watch W atch o our ur special special p project roject vi video deo o on n Ki Kickstarter.com, ckstarter.com, pledge pledge your your support support and a nd y you ou ccould ould end end up up in the the p pages ages of N Northeast ortheast F FLAVOR! LAVOR! Together T ogether we we can can celebrate celebrate all all tthings hings d delicious elicious iin nN Ne New ew England. E En ngland.
Learn more today at www.northeastflavor.com/kickstarter www .northeastflavor.com/kickstarter
GET INSPIRED | Kitchen Design
Above: Kathy Marshall’s updated traditional kitchen and dining area in a 1930s Melrose, Massachusetts kitchen. Below: As you enter the kitchen from the side entry, coathooks and a niche with custom dovetailed trays add an element of practicality to the overall design.
Respecting Tradition S T O RY B Y R o b l e v e y | K I T C H E N D E S I G N B Y K . M a R s h a l l d e s i g n PHOTOGRAPHS BY Michael J lee PhotogRaPhy RENOVATING OLD HOMES AND putting things back together again — and the attendant problem-solving that goes along with that — are in Kathy Marshall’s blood. “I come from a long line of master carpenters that began with my great great grandfather from Scotland,” said Kathy of K. Marshall Design in Wenham, Massachusetts. “My great grandfather, grandfather, and father were master carpenters, too.” Noting her grandfather and father started a cabinet company in which she was afforded the opportunity to “tag along” as a child and see jobs in progress, she said the experience helped shape her. “I grew up learning the importance of doing everything right — measuring twice and all that stuff — were ingrained in me,” said Kathy, who acknowledges that she read Architectural Digest as a kid. “I just loved it.”
54 SUMMER 2014
Kathy still loves it, and it has not gone unnoticed, as she has won several awards from the National Kitchen and Bath Association for several of her designs. Primarily working in old homes, she said she takes every design project very seriously, with an eye toward creating spaces that are beautiful as well as reflections of each individual owner’s personalities. Recently, Kathy set her sights on a kitchen project in a Melrose, Massachusetts home, circa-1935, designed by the prestigious Royal Barry Wills architectural firm out of Boston. In reflecting on the project’s outcome, she said she believes she achieved “a New England sensible-styled kitchen,” which she defines as a balance between form and function. “It’s not overly fussy,” said Kathy, who credited her contractor, John McGuire of
Modern function mixes with style inspired by the house’s history. Emphasizing function meets form is the custom spice drawer which is tucked into the island (right).
James Construction in Melrose, as critical to the project’s success. “There are clean lines, some wood — which creates warmth — and quality millwork that’s not overly carved. It’s elegant and there’s an emphasis on craftsmanship, but it doesn’t feel standoffish.” Owners Sara Brandon and her husband Craig bought the home in July of 2012. They loved its character, but felt it needed updating, which is why they went back to Royal Barry Wills to handle the redesign. “With their help, we updated it, but kept its original character,” said Sara, who said they initially took down walls and eliminated a tiny “maids” staircase to create flow and openness. “With the newly opened space, Kathy then went to work maximizing every inch of it and creating a style that matched the age of the house,” she added. “She also matched my years of kitchen dreaming —a huge folder of magazine pictures I had saved.”
As for how Kathy’s redesign has impacted how she uses her kitchen, Sara said it is the space in which she now spends most of her time. “It’s very spacious and sunny and it’s my preferred place to sit with the laptop, pay bills, read the paper,” she said. “As for the cooking, I’m like a kid at Christmas . . . simple things like the spice drawer, the oversized kitchen window sill and the French doors make me feel like I really got everything on my dream list.” For Kathy, Sara’s response is the kind of reaction that she aims for in every design project. “It’s the best compliment to hear I’ve fulfilled every dream they’ve had and more,” she said. “It’s a really good feeling.”
GET INSPIRED | Kitchen Design
The Big Picture S T O RY B Y R O B L E V E Y | K I T C H E N D E S I G N B Y S T E V E L A N G L E Y PHOTOGRAPH BY BOB HARRINGTON
FOR STEVE LANGLEY OF Connecticut Kitchen Design, form follows function, which is a concept entirely guided by both a client’s needs and wants. “When clients indicate an interest in a particular style they wish to bring into their home or a finish that interests them, we discuss the options, and from there I take their ideas and implement them through the design process,” he said. In this kitchen, which placed first in the category of Traditional Kitchen Design in Clarke’s Kitchen Design Contest, Langley said he was guided by the client’s strong, yet malleable vision. “In this new construction, the client had a definitive idea of how she wanted the overall house and kitchen to look, yet she was amenable to all the ideas presented by Connecticut Kitchen Design, including moving walls and reconfiguring the architectural layout,” he said. Langley acknowledged, however, the project presented him with two unusual challenges, as the original floor plan included a butler’s pantry that cut into the kitchen area, which would have created a long and narrow L-shaped space. Noting the window had already been installed and could not be moved, he said his concern related to the symmetry and balance of the wall cabinets, which he said are necessary design features in a traditional kitchen. To correct these “two major deficits,” he said he relocated the butler’s pantry in an unconventional way by making it shallower and much wider, which he said solved the window problem, too. “This allowed us to design two symmetrical islands with seating for five at each and a third island in the butler’s pantry for more storage and another preparation area,” he noted. Once symmetry and balance was restored, Langley said he wanted his
56 SUMMER 2014
View from the kitchen table shows balanced islands and cabinetry. The vintage gray coffee bar anchors the space with its custom aged zinc shelving and countertop.
design to complement the architectural “bones” of the house, as he chose quartersawn white oak that were stained a dark coffee bean color for the floors. “I designed painted cabinets with recessed-panel leaded-glass doors and enhanced the cabinets with white Carrara marble countertops and backsplash and dark stained hardwood floors,” he said. Playing off the warm gray painted tones of the islands and butler’s pantry, he said they used antique zinc metal with rivets for the hood bonnet, the island countertop in the butler’s pantry, and the coffee bar countertop and shelving. “This created a ‘soft industrial’ impression,” he added. Noting he was surprised at the award for his kitchen design given the stiff competition, Langley said he believes the materials he used for the project helped
make it “state of the art.” He also cited his many previous years in construction as a home builder as instrumental in enabling him to look at a project and recognize what can and cannot be accomplished both structurally and financially. “Most designers stay within the proposed layout of a kitchen space, but my background allows me to look at the project with a broader scope,” he said. According to Langley, this broader scope includes an acceptance that each project’s design process must not only conform to the wishes of the client, but be sufficiently fluid in response to the surrounding home environment. “Listening to [a client’s] needs, being aware of the trends, and staying in tune with the times yield growth and improvement,” he said.
YOUâ€™VE NEVER TAKEN A TEST DRIVE LIKE THIS.
0o to 450o faster than ever! Would you ever consider investing in an automobile without a test drive? Then why purchase high-performance appliances without first testing them? Try the intensity and speed of a Wolf gas broiler. Experience the Wolf Convection Steam Oven cooking a dozen eggs in the carton, rejuvenating leftovers and taking a meal from freezer to table in 30 minutes. Witness the power of Wolf induction cooking. You can see and use more models of Sub-Zero and Wolf here than anywhere else in New England. Youâ€™ll never drive anything else after this test drive. Incomparable.
Visit us online, stop by to browse or call today to arrange a test drive. Milford, MA & South Norwalk, CT s 800-845-8247 s wolftestdrive.com
GET INSPIRED | Things We Love
Grate Expectations Grilling season is in full swing so we hardly fire up the kitchen stove these days! Whether gas or charcoal, we’ve come across some great grate accessories. Try out these barbeque bells and whistles!
*The Great Grate This has got to be one of our favorite grilling helpers ever. The Grill Grate and its sidekick The Grate Tool™ will make you a backyard hero. The hard anodized raised rails create an infrared zone which helps to control flare-up, giving your food a serious sizzle and grill marks. Food retains more moisture and doesn’t get charred. You can grill veggies and fish without wrapping them in foil. The Grate Tool, part fork part spatula, allows you to get underneath even more delicate fish to flip without it falling apart. (It’s also designed to help clean out the “valleys”) The bars become seasoned with time (like your favorite wok or cast iron pan) creating a reliably non-stick surface. We recently took it to a park with public grills, and the Grill Grate allows you to cook away from home, without landing on anyone else’s previous sticky or charred surface. Visit www.grillgrate.com for pricing and retail locations near you.
)Always a Clean BBQ Clean BBQ’s heavy aluminum grate covers mean no more scraping and wire brushing. Although they are disposable, we’ve gotten a few uses out of them depending on what and how much is being grilled. Cooking for two, you can always use one side one night and the other side the next. These are especially good when using sticky marinades or glazes, like teriyaki or sweet and sour sauces. As with the Grill Grate, it’s nice for public grills, as you start fresh each time. For more information and to purchase, go to www.cleanbbq.com.
)Grill It Daddy! Grill Daddy’s collection of attachments uses one primary handle with a heat shield and accessories fit on like vacuum cleaner attachments. Our set came with an extra wide spatula as well as an extra long one (both a little over six inches) which are perfect for flipping fish or other foods likely to break apart on the grill. The set also comes with an extra long pair of heat-shielded tongs. The primary handle even houses an instant read meat thermometer. Other attachments include a barbeque fork, a regular sized spatula and a right angled basting brush. We’re told that their steaming grill cleaner works really well too, but we haven’t gotten to test drive that yet. For more details on this and other Grill Daddy products, visit www.buygrilldaddy.com.
58 SUMMER 2014
! " # # # , # #
! # #
,! '' '#' #'$ *' %,("(!"),) ##+#$'*#'"
GET INSPIRED | Reviews
The Book & Blog Club Farm Fresh
The Four Season Farm Gardener’s Cookbook
Always in Season
by Barbara Damrosch and Eliot Coleman
It’s not hard to fall in love with this book, which is equally suited to standing at arm’s reach among your most useful cookbooks as it is sitting on display on your coffee table. I was immediately drawn to the bright and colorful illustrations by artist Teresa Lagrange (more about Teresa and her work on page 64). Not only is the book beautiful, but it’s well organized and the recipes are approachable and easy to follow as well as being healthy and flavorful. The cookbook is organized by the New England growing season month by month, which makes it easy to find a recipe or an ingredient you’re looking for. Each month highlights a few items that are in season making it easy to select the best produce available locally at the farmers’ market, in your CSA box or straight from your garden. Richer’s narrative voice flows naturally throughout the pages making it feel as though we’re in the kitchen together sharing tips and family stories. The recipes, which include a balance of entrees, sides, salads, soups and baked goods are suitable for every day as well as entertaining. Many recipes, if not already vegan or gluten-free, can be easily made so with a simple ingredient swap or omission making this cookbook a wonderful resource for anyone looking to eat locally, seasonally and experience the unique flavors of New England year-round.
Ever since the mid seventies, Damrosch and Coleman have been blazing a trail for and as organic gardeners. Long before organic and local became household words, they were writing about ways to grow good food year round. They live in Downeast Maine, not Florida or Santa Monica where such an endeavor would have fewer challenges. Both are authors, and Damrosh writes a weekly column for the Washington Post, “A Cook’s Garden.” Together they host “Gardening Naturally” on TLC. Their latest book, The Four Season Farm Gardener’s Cookbook, is part gardening bible and part first-rate cookbook. Chock full of practical, inexpensive ways to get growing in your own backyard, the first part of the book addresses everything from soil analysis and starting seeds to harvesting, The cookbook section will inspire even non-gardeners to seek out their local farmers’ markets and farm stands. Simple but inspired recipes like Salad with New Potatoes, Smoked Salmon and Peas, Lamb Stuffed Eggplant and Lemon Verbena Panna Cotta will have your mouth watering before you put down this book. I concur with Dan Barber who says “Only Eliot and Barbara could put together such an appealing book, moving seamlessly between garden and kitchen, agricultural wisdom and culinary hedonism.”
60 SUMMER 2014
by Elise Richer
www.freshnewengland.com As the creators of this site say, “This site is a labor of love.” They don’t accept payment for directory listings. Any local food establishments, including farm-to-table restaurants that would like to be included can send information. This speaks to a very generous sensibility on the part of Fresh New England’s founders — they just really want to share valuable information about buying locally, sustainably. Whether you are looking for a restaurant, a locally owned cooking store, a bakery, a dairy or a farmer’s market, you’ll find information here listed by each of the six New England states. While information about farmers’ markets and the like exists in some form — often from state agriculture departments — this is an ever-expanding one-stop resource. There are listings of everything from farm stay vacations to culinary classes and food trucks. Recipes are organized both by seasonality and by ingredient — perfect for the high season of our farms’ bounty. In addition to great listings and recipes, the photography alone is worth a visit. When we visited, their thought for the day was a quote from film director Federico Fellini, stating “Life is a combination of magic and pasta.” A great combination of food and food for thought, this site will inspire you to do a bit of New England culinary travel, whether it’s online or on the road.
sm i t h/ker r
More than 3 0 NEW recipes!
Recipes can be found at www.northeastflavor.com
Soups and Starters Asparagus and New Potato Vichyssoise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chilled Asparagus Soup with Red Pepper Coulis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 13 Cucumber and Yogurt Soup with Cucumber Granita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 13 Cucumber-Green Apple Pico de Gallo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 14 Custard-Stuffed Baked Tomatoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 48 Eggs Drumkilbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 25 Gazpacho Verde with Cucumber-Green Apple Pico de Gallo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 14 Kale Salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 51 Lemony Quinoa and Watermelon Salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 41 Mediterranean Watermelon Salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 41 Pea, Mint and Buttermilk Soup with Olive Toasts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 14 Potato Leek Soup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 51 Summer Heirloom Tomato Cobb Salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 49 Sweet Watermelon Salad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 40 Watermelon Pomegranate Toss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 41
“A wonderful book about fish and shellfish cookery” —Mary Ann Esposito
“A feast for the eyes and the stomach” —Jasper White
Main Courses Beef Tenderloin Steaks with a Rosemary Bell Pepper Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 25 Duck Egg Spaghetti Carbonara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 9 Greek Pita Flatbread with Watermelon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 40 Grilled Tuna with Wasabi Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 8 Lobster and Sweet Corn Chowder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 35 Lobster Pot Pies with Puff Pastry Hats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 35 Lobster Soft Tacos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 34 Mediterranean Summer Pasta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 48 Poached Eggs in Purgatory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 49
Sauces and Sides Asian Cole Slaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cucumber-Green Apple Pico de Gallo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Grilled Spicy Watermelon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Watermelon Raspberry Vinaigrette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
page 51 page 14 page 41 page 41
“You can’t go wrong with Union Oyster House Cookbook” —Bobby Flay
Sweets Blueberry Moonshine Popsicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cantaloupe and Campari Popsicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chocolate Perfection Pie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cucumber, Elderflower and Tequila Popsicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Raspberry Pie with Shortening Crust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Simple Syrup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
page 38 page 39 page 25 page 38 page 10 page 39
Drinks Watermelon Cooler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . page 40
For more great recipes, visit our website: www.northeastﬂavor.com
$17.95 “An innovative cookbook” —Bon Appetit
Our books are widely available through all good bookstores, through internet retailers like Amazon, Barnes & Noble, BAM, IndieBound, and through distributors around the world. Prices may vary. Smith/Kerr Associates, LLC One Government Street, Suite 1 Kittery, ME 03904 Visit our new site: www.smithkerr.com
NORTHEAST FLAVOR | Advertiser Directory
! Newburyport’s Premier Waterfront Restaurant Lunch | Dinner | Kids’ Menu Daily Specials | Private Dining !
Escape the Ordinary to ...
Small inn ambience with large resort amenities ... park the car and enjoy: sandy beach, indoor and outdoor pools, clay tennis courts, free WiFi, fine linens, terry robes, varied restaurants, lounge, fire pit, and The Spa (public welcome). Close historic and scenic attractions, Nubble Light, the Kittery Outlets, and Ogunquit but with a much more serene atmosphere. Breakfast is included; gourmet dining and other packages are available year round.
Rte 1A, York Harbor, ME
62 SUMMER 2014
900° Pizzeria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10, 30 Allagash Brewing Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Black Trumpet Bistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Boston Harbor Hotel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Back Cover Boston Local Food Festival . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 The Breakwater Inn & Spa and Striper’s Waterside Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Carol’s Eggs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 The Centennial Hotel, and Granite Restaurant & Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Chapman Cottage at York Harbor Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Clarke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Colony Hotel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Copper Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Cotton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inside Front Cover CNY Fresh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 The District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Eagle Mountain House and Eagle Landing Tavern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 The Ethan Allen Hotel and Fairfields Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 The Exeter Inn and Epoch Restaurant & Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Foodie Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Formaticum Cheese Paper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Galley Hatch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Grill 28 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Hanover Street Chophouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Harvest on the Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Hay Creek Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17, 19, 21 Kennebunkport Resort Collection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Library Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Linda Bean’s Maine Lobster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Michael’s Harbourside Restaurant & Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . This Page Mombo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 The Mountain Club on Loon Resort and Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Newburyport Chamber of Commerce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 New Hampshire Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 New Hampshire Liquor Commission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inside Back Cover Ocean Properties/Salt Kitchen and Bar at Wentworth by the Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 The Orchards Hotel and Gala Steakhouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Popovers on the Square . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 R. Murphy Knives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Ristorante Massimo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 The Roundhouse and Swifts Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Rudi’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Sara Moulton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Smith/Kerr Associates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Stage Neck Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . This Page The Valley Originals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Vermont Creamery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 The White Barn Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Windham Hill Inn and Windham Hill Restaurant & Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 The Wolfeboro Inn and Wolfe’s Tavern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 York Harbor Inn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
CREDITS: P.8: Photograph by Olga Krig/Bigstock.com P.10: Recipe and photograph courtesy of Quarry Books P.32: Photograph by Tim Sullivan P.34: Photograph by elenathewise/Bigstock.com (background); Photograph by mikdam/Bigstock.com (lobster claw) P.58: Photographs courtesy of product manufacturers P.60: Photograph by pixeden.com (iPad)
Every issue of FLAVOR! Now at Magzter.com
D Disc Discover
Read anywhere, anytime on Android, iPad, Mac and PC. Subscribe today!
SHOP · DINE · PLAY · ST TAY One of the Premier Summer Destinations on the North Shore Follow Us @ nbptchamber www.newburyportchamber.org Photos by DeGeorge, Zoltai, Loring
Search for Northeast FLAVOR at magzter.com or in the Apple App Store!
CENTRAL NEW YORK
Hi. I’m Stan. My sweet honey creates es qquite a buzz d that aroundd here Guess it’s a product really sticks with you Get a taste at farms and markets throughout Central New York When it comes to treats, this is where you want to “bbeee
Culinary Arts: Teresa Lagrange, illustrator BY BRENDA GAUDET
A Very Fresh Year What strikes you as you look at the new book, Always in Season by Elise Richer, are the colorful and fun illustrations of fruits and vegetables that grace the front cover. But this isn’t a recipe book that hides behind great artwork; these recipes are really good, and showcase the delicious benefit of using local produce. It’s also a fun and witty read. The artist behind the bold design of the book is illustrator Teresa Lagrange. This Portland, Maine-based graphic designer likes to include a bit of whimsy in her work. The illustrations in the book, and in her accompanying 2015 poster calendar,
64 SUMMER 2014
Garden Harvest, feature work that is bright, colorful, and that really jumps off the page. A food lover at heart, Teresa reckons her intake of fresh fruit and vegetables increased about 200 percent while doing the illustrations for the book and calendar, improving her overall health, as well as giving the local farming and fishing communities a much needed boost. A celebrated designer and artist, Teresa has done work for the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association and Portland Buy Local, among others. An author in her own right, Teresa has published a children’s book, The Twelve
Days of Christmas Island, about a small but beautiful island off Australia’s coast, home to many beautiful birds, and endemic flora and fauna. She hopes the book will educate children about animals, assuring the protection of the world’s wildlife by our next generation. The books and calendar are available at bookstores throughout New England and on Amazon.com. She’s working on pieces to showcase at Black Cat Coffee in Portland. If you can’t make it to Portland, you can see more of Teresa’s work at her blog, www.teresalagrange .weebly.com.