TRIBEZA May 2021 Food Issue by TRIBEZA Austin Curated

THE

20 YEARS

Food Issue

100% of 2021 sales have been off-market. 58

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

P H OTO G R A P H B Y

SPECIALIZING I N E XC LU S I V E P R I VAT E L I S T I N G S

8101 Magnolia Ridge Cove Bee Caves

4106 Wayfarer Way The Grove

411 W St. Elmo Road #35 South Austin

3623 Peregrine Falcon Drive Westlake

Nicole Kessler –

P H OTO G R A P H B Y

Broker Associate 512.657.3939 nicolekessler.com

2100 Sharon Lane Tarrytown

8701 Acuarela Court Barton Creek | Buyer Representation

All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale, or withdrawal without notice. All measurements and square footages are approximate, but not guaranteed and should be independently verified. This is not intended to solicit property already listed. Nothing herein shall be construed as legal, accounting or other professional advice outside the realm of real estate brokerage. Compass is a licensed real estate broker. Equal Housing Opportunity.

CONTENTS

MAY DEPARTMENTS

Farmers are hatching new ways to connect Austinites to their local food producers.

Social Hour p.!14 Kristin’s Column p.!16 Tribeza Talk p.!18 Arts & Entertainment Calendars p.!20 Karen’s Pick p.!48 Dining Guide p.!52 A Look Behind p.!56 FEATURES

Dishing the Dirt p.!28

ON THE COVER Filled with lychee mousse and topped with a decorative dried beet cookie, the colorful mango bun from Qi Austin is a delectable dessert. PHOTOGRAPH BY JESSICA ATTIE

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

C H I C K : P H OTO G R A P H B Y TAY LO R P R I N S E N

Pass It On p.!36

W H AT ’ S N E W O N

TRIBEZA.COM

TAKE IT OUTSIDE

These rooftop bars, patios and gardens are perfect for outdoor socializing. tribeza.com/austin-patios

Stories from this issue are available at tribeza.com, in addition to fresh content daily. Keep up by subscribing to our Tribeza Talk newsletter. tribeza.com/sign-up-newsletter

KEEP IT COOL

Our exclusive directory of trusted local and national brands, Tribeza Shop includes products from YETI. tribeza.com/shop

NOW SEATING

The long-awaited Lutie’s restaurant opens at the Commodore Perry Estate. tribeza.com/lutiesrestaurant-opens

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

P 6 P H OTO G R A P H B Y C H A S E DA N I E L ; L U T I E ’ S P H OTO G R A P H B Y M AC K E N Z I E S M I T H K E L L E Y

Modern Clarksville Townhouse

1410 Woodlawn Blvd #A $1,399,999

3 BD

3.5 BA

2,196 SF

Lisa Matulis-Thomajan

Jennifer Ladner

Real Estate Agent

lisa@thomajanladnergroup.com

jennifer@thomajanladnergroup.com

512.739.2460

512.827.9255

thomajanladnergroup.com All material presented herein is intended for informational purposes only. Information is compiled from sources deemed reliable but is subject to errors, omissions, changes in price, condition, sale, or withdrawal without notice. All measurements and square footages are approximate, but not guaranteed and should be independently verified. This is not intended to solicit property already listed. othing herein shall be construed as legal, accounting or other professional advice outside the realm of real estate brokerage. Compass is a licensed real estate broker. Equal Housing Opportunity.

EDITOR’S LETTER

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

Driving out to Driftwood on a foggy Wednesday morning, I had the distinct pleasure of holding a 3-day-old chick in my hands as Ty and Sara Burk traced their process at Westfold Farm. That batch of chickens won’t arrive in local restaurants for at least six weeks after our issue goes to print, a full 10 weeks or more from this photo by Taylor Prinsen. Likewise, the seedlings at Bouldin Food Forest, captured the same week by Travis Hallmark, won’t become Comedor’s signature salad until maybe early July. As we continue to celebrate the talented chefs crafting our farm-to-table menus here in Austin, this story highlights some of the heroes making those products available in the first place. Both stories narrow the category of “authentically Austin” into two key components that I believe will guide how we answer that question for years to come. When I consider what you can find here that you can’t find anywhere else, my response revolves around the remarkable range of talent on display in local restaurants, and—thanks to our innovative local farmers—the ingredients themselves. We hope this issue will help continue to expand your own Hannah J. Phillips definition as you explore these pages. Executive Editor

P H OTO G R A P H B Y TAY LO R P R I N S E N

HEN SOMEONE RECENTLY ASKED WHERE TO SEND

a visiting friend for “food she can’t find in Chicago,” I scanned my mental directory of favorite Austin restaurants. Reviewing my list (and recent receipts) of go-to spots, I found the challenge harder than your average dining pick: After all, what makes a menu “authentically Austin”? Is it brisket from a famous pitmaster? Tacos from a neighborhood food truck? Elevated fare from an award-winning chef? What do we have on offer here that you simply cannot find outside Central Texas? This issue is proof of just how much even the scope of that question has expanded over the past few decades. Had you asked my parents the same thing in the ’80s or ’90s, their answer would have been wildly different; so would mine, for that matter, just seven years ago. Writing about Austin restaurants for the better part of a decade has given a front-row seat to the many ways that question is evolving, growing in tandem to our ever-changing skyline. I believe that evolution is a good thing for our local food scene, evidenced by the increasing abundance of international tastes and talents Courtney Runn includes in our cover story, “Pass It On” (p. 36). The feature focuses on four restaurants leading the rise of Asian cuisine in Austin, each helmed by a female chef bringing their diverse experience and artistic f lair to the table. Tagging along with photographer Jessica Attie, I was amazed by not only the growing representation of cultural influences in our city—of which these four are just a fraction—but also by the aesthetic beauty presented on each plate. As Austinites, we’ve come to appreciate the plate as canvas, elements of color and texture combined as visual appetizers for the victual adventure ahead. And while this admiration stems in part from living in the age of Instagram, we rightly esteem our local chefs as wizards of both palate and palette. Dig a little deeper, however, and you soon learn how reliant these artists are on their fellow food master, the farmer. In our feature “Dishing the Dirt” (p. 28), we explore that codependent creative relationship and outline the arduous journey from pasture to plate.

delysia.com

TRIBEZ A AUSTIN CUR ATED

20 YEARS

M AY 2 02 1

N O. 2 3 2

CEO

George Elliman EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Hannah J. Phillips

ART DIRECTOR

Alexander Wolf

DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Aaron Parsley

DIGITAL MEDIA MANAGER

Holly Cowart

SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

David Clough

COLUMNISTS

Kristin Armstrong Karen O. Spezia

PUBLISHER

Mark Fisher

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Krissy Hearn

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Paul Krushin

ACCOUNTING MANAGER

Dylan Sack

PRINCIPALS

George Elliman Chuck Sack Vance Sack Michael Torres

WRITERS

Holly Cowart Hannah J. Phillips Courtney Runn COPY EDITOR

Stacy Hollister

PHOTOGR APHERS

Jessica Attie Holly Cowart Travis Hallmark Mackenzie Smith Kelley Taylor Prinsen CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTR ATOR

Elaine Almeida

706A West 34th Street Austin, Texas 78705 ph (512) 474 4711 | fax (512) 474 4715 tribeza.com Founded in March 2001, TRIBEZA is Austin's leading locally-owned arts and culture magazine. Printed by CSI Printing and Mailing Copyright @ 2021 by TRIBEZA. All rights reserved. Reproduction, in whole or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher, is prohibited. TRIBEZA is a proud member of the Austin Chamber of Commerce. S U B SC R I B E TO TR I B EZ A VISIT TRIB EZ A .COM FOR DE TAIL S

Carl Shurr

YOUR LOCAL & GLOBAL REAL ESTAT E ADV ISO R

Carl is an experienced and award-winning real estate professional in Austin’s luxury market. He has been in the top 1% of all REALTORS® in Austin for the past decade, and this year was named a Top 10 agent at Kuper Sotheby’s International Realty and a member of Elite 25 and Luxury League. Carl has developed a loyal client base over the years. His clients describe him as hard-working, a market expert, a strong negotiator, honest, genuine, and his personal favorite, not your typical agent. Want to know how much your property is worth? Contact Carl today for a complimentary market analysis.

REALTOR® 512.944.5977 CARL@CARLSHURR.COM CARLSHURR.COM

MEET ELITE AUSTIN. WE SPECIALIZE IN ALL THINGS FURNITURE, FOR RENT OR PURCHASE.

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P H OTO G R A P H B Y H O L LY CO WA R T

INSIDER

HOST WITH THE MOST

5 local brands creating enviable home goods, p 18.

WILLIAM CHRIS VINEYARDS SPRING CONCERT & CRAWFISH BOIL On March 27, William Chris Vineyards hosted a crawfish boil and spring concert on its property in Hye. During the event, guests were welcomed with a glass of William Chris’ 2020 Mary Ruth before being treated to Cajun favorites and live music from local musicians Pike & Sutton. The gorgeous and expansive space makes the perfect destination for food and community, from local dining collaborations to outdoor performances. SUNSET STRIP COMEDY CLUB DEBUT Sunset Strip Comedy Club debuted in Austin on April 2 with a stacked comedy showcase of six headlining comedians, including Jeremy Piven, Amir K and Lara Beitz. Located inside the Sunset Room in downtown Austin, the venue is operating at limited capacity, welcoming established and emerging standup acts with tables available for groups and a full bar.

SPRINGFEST 2021: 1. Jessica Martinez, Tim Hittmeier, Sean Callaway & Rachel Hengst 2. Monica Ceniceros, Kevin Collins & Callie Hale 3. Tameca Jones

WCV SPRING CONCERT & CRAWFISH BOIL: 4. Victoria Wiesman & Savana Poe 5. John Koeter & Kristi Kingston 6. Anna Bever & Lauren Charters 7. Allen & Amy Shannon, Allen & Kristen Cowden 8. Patrice Pike of Pike and Sutton 9. Josh Tye SUNSET STRIP COMEDY CLUB DEBUT: 10. Will Blaylock 11. Chelsea Bancroft, Alex McCormack, Ellie Little & Zac Elbel 12. Jacquelyn Mangione, Karen Reinsberg & Tania Ortega 13. JR De Guzman

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

S P R I N G F E S T P H OTO G R A P H S B Y A L I S O N N A R R O ; W C V S P R I N G CO N C E R T & C R AW F I S H B O I L P H OTO G R A P H S B Y M A D I S O N B O U D R E A U X , D I L LO N R H E A A N D DAV I D B AT E S ; S U N S E T S T R I P P H OTO G R A P H S B Y K E E LY N CO S T E L LO

SPRINGFEST 2021 atxGALS and the Cathedral celebrated local art and music with a three-day intimate and COVIDconscious gathering during the week of SXSW. The pop-up included vibrant works from emerging women artists, tasty complimentary drinks, femalefocused panel discussions and live performances from favorite musicians like Sir Woman, Nané, Tameca Jones and more. Housed in the Cathedral, a coworking space in East Austin, atxGALS regularly works to bring recognition to women in the arts industry through inventive events and exhibitions.

José Parlá, Playa Giron, Acrylic on Panel

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KRISTIN’S COLUMN

What Are You Hungry For? By Kristin Armstrong Illustration by Elaine Almeida

N ADDITION TO NOURISHMENT, FOOD CAN ALSO PROVIDE COMFORT,

communication, creative expression, fuel and a form of coping. We all have our thing—maybe it’s freshly baked cookies, or eating the dough before it ever gets to the oven. Maybe it’s homemade pasta sauce, simmered all day on the stove, with a side of crusty garlic bread for dipping. Certain foods make your whole house smell like love. I remember packing kids’ lunches, drawing their names in bubble letters with colored pens on the outside of paper bags, cutting off PB&J crusts (which became my pre-run breakfast), adding fruit, chips and a little love note folded and tucked at the bottom. On one hand, it’s just lunch. On the other, it’s a reminder halfway through a long day away from home that you are loved and someone is excited to come find you in the pickup line. A reminder that in a sea of small faces, you are someone’s everything. Running endurance races, food becomes fuel. Aid stations become respite, then later, nirvana. Calculating caloric, electrolyte and salt intake to avoid cramping and overall delirium is as important to training as preparing for the physical effort itself. After enough miles, a Dixie cup of Coke, a salted boiled potato or a handful of trail mix with M&M’s can literally become the best thing you have ever tasted. Actually, no, that would be the cold beer after the finish line, and I’m not even a beer girl. Sometimes the best treats, like the best views, are earned. For many, food has become a coping mechanism during this past year. Empty grocery store shelves and closed restaurants sparked a scarcity fire that burned long after the stores were restocked and we could venture out to eat again. “Not enough” makes us err toward too much. I read someplace that the average weight gain during this year of quarantine was 29

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

pounds, mindless eating paired with Netflix bingeing. Isolation made carbs even more comforting, and curbside pickup became easier than cooking. Overfull recycle bins at the curb bore witness to the other forms of numbing that accompanied the food as we all attempted to cope. I would venture to say that the best thing about food, aside from its necessity for survival, is the way that human beings are connected through the communal ritual of mealtime. Connection is probably what we are most hungry for now, longing for a deeper nourishment of the soul. As I think about what vaccinated life looks like, one of the first things I want to do is host a dinner party. I want to put on a cute dress, be braless and barefoot, gather at my giant kitchen island with people I love, light candles, pour wine, listen to a vibey playlist, chop and prep and serve. I want to linger and laugh and savor the richly blended flavors of deep friendship, good food and the precious gift of time. What are you hungry for? That’s a very different question from “What do you want to eat?” Now is the time to move into a mindset of abundance, not just the abundance of what is available at the grocery store or where we are free to go, but what is available to us and what do we really want to experience? We have now survived COVID and SNOVID. We have learned to do without human connection, hugs, electricity, heat, internet, toilet paper and running water. We have endured broken pipes, broken plans and broken hearts. We have sacrificed so much that we now have acute clarity about what we cannot do without. Let’s live like it. Let’s eat like it. Let’s love like it.

T R I B E Z A TA L K

Set the Table ELEVATE YOUR NE X T ME AL WITH THESE HANDCR AF TED HOME GOODS Words and Photograph by Holly Cowart

SETTLE CER AMICS

ITEMS: LAZURITE RED PLATTER, CHAPARRAL FAT RIM LUNCH PLATE, MATTE WHITE SETTLE AND ROYAL SPECKLE BOWLS

Made to order and made to last from this generation to the next, each of Settle Ceramics’ creations is conceptualized, formed, fired and glazed by local maker Samantha Heligman. She takes cues from nature to shape a spectrum of designs that easily double as centerpieces, from large family-style serving plates to hand-painted miniature spice bowls. Look out for four new color options heading to her Wander Collection. settleceramics.com

JFR GLASS

ITEMS: ANTIQUE SILVER GLASSES

The colors in these glasses are always changing based on the light they touch, offering a table addition that is as versatile as it is dazzling. Jared F. Rosenacker—aka JFR—expertly crafts each item from soda-lime glass to create enviable drinkware that’ll leave an impression on any houseguest. jfrglass.com

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

AUG U S T SAG E ITEMS: SOFIA OVAL & ANA PAULA BUD VASE

Inspired by travel, Rowena Lei created August Sage to fulfill her love of turning home into inspiration, working with master craftspeople around the world to form distinct tabletop collections. Handthrown using traditional Guadalajaran techniques in Tonalá, Mexico, these vases take organic minimalism to the next level. No matter the space, let these sophisticated works stand alone or accent them with a floral pop. augustsage.com

LOOT FINER GOODS

ITEMS: TUNISIAN COTTON HAND TOWELS

Bonus:

Spark connection with Kinn’s Conversation Cards.

Anna Crelia and Rhoda Brimberry made all of our decor dreams come true when they expanded their interior rental business to establish Loot Finer Goods in 2017. Filled with statement items, including their own brand-name selection, the showroom makes it easy to curate your aesthetic or find your missing piece— like these exclusively sold Tunisian hand towels. lootfinergoods.com

KINN HOME

ITEMS: 3-PIECE FLATWARE SET

For Kinn, it’s all about the details. Founded by Tarica Phung Navarro, the home goods brand places emphasis on intentional, modern design that impacts everyday moments. Form and function are celebrated in this striking flatware set, which features higher-grade steel, exceptional balance and four finishes. kinnhome.co tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

C ALENDARS B E S U R E T O C H E C K W E B S I T E S F O R U P D AT E D I N F O R M AT I O N A N D S A F E T Y P R O T O C O L S

Entertainment MUSIC MARIACHI MELODIAS DE MEXICO May 6 – 9 ZACH Theatre MATTHEW LOGAN VASQUEZ May 7 Empire Control Room & Garage GOLDEN DAWN ARKESTRA May 8 ACL Live

SUNNY SWEENEY May 15 Antone’s Nightclub

CODY JOHNSON May 28 – 30 Whitewater Amphitheater

SUZY BOGGUSS May 16 One World Theatre

RAY WYLIE HUBBARD May 29 The Backyard Amphitheater

VANESSA ZAMORA May 16 The Far Out Lounge

SHINYRIBS May 29 Nutty Brown Amphitheatre

SAFE + SOUNDS W/ JACKIE VENSON & SARAH SHARP May 21 Hotel Granduca Austin

THE TEXAS GENTLEMEN June 5 ACL Live

ROBERT EARL KEEN May 8 Whitewater Amphitheater

ELI YOUNG BAND May 22 Nutty Brown Amphitheatre

CLINT BLACK May 9 Whitewater Amphitheater

GIRL TALK May 22 Emo’s Austin

GINA CHAVEZ May 9 Haute Spot

BLACK PUMAS May 26 – 30 Stubb’s Waller Creek Amphitheater

KENDELL MARVEL & BRENT COBB May 13 Antone’s Nightclub

THE DROP-IN May 27 – September 9 Long Center

ASO: MOONLIGHT MOODS May 13 & 14 Moody Amphitheater HAYES CARLL May 14 Nutty Brown Amphitheatre KYLE NIX May 14 Antone’s Nightclub RANDY ROGERS BAND May 15 Nutty Brown Amphitheatre

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

The Long Center H-E-B Terrace

FILM AUSTIN AFTER DARK FILM FEST May 14 & 15 Doc’s Drive-In AUSTIN COMEDY FILM FEST May 14 & 15 Doc’s Drive-In WITHOUT GETTING KILLED OR CAUGHT May 19 & 20 The Contemporary Austin Laguna Gloria BOY MEETS BOY SCREENING + Q&A May 20 – 26 AGLIFF (Virtual)

THEATER SHAKESPEARE’S A MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM May 5 – 30 Zilker Hillside Theatre THE DANCE PROJECT: SHINE ON May 6 – 9 Long Center RAIN FALLS SPECIAL ON ME May 6 – 22 Ground Floor Theatre MIXTAPE VOL. 2: A PRE-PROFESSIONAL COMPANY SHOWCASE May 14 – 23 ZACH Theatre AGATHA CHRISTIE’S THE MYSTERIOUS AFFAIR AT STYLES May 21 – 30 Austin Playhouse (Virtual)

COMEDY JOE LIST May 15 Paramount Theatre JACQUELINE NOVAK: GET ON YOUR KNEES May 15 & 16 Paramount Theatre NIMESH PATEL May 16 Antone’s Nightclub

OTHER SHERWOOD FOREST FAIRE Through May 23 Sherwood Forest Faire AUSTIN SPRING FESTIVAL Through May 31 Barton Hill Farms MAY MARKET Through May 31 Blue Genie Art Bazaar BIKE NIGHT May 4 & 11 Circuit of the Americas SUPPER CLUB May 6 – 9 Collective Hill Country MOTHER’S DAY PICNIC W/ AUSTIN SYMPHONY May 9 Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center MOOBY’S POP UP May 10 – 15 3TEN ACL Live AUSTIN WEIRD HOMES TOUR May 15 Virtual LAISSEZ FAIR VINTAGE MARKET May 16 Passport Vintage NASCAR AT COTA May 21 – 23 Circuit of the Americas

FORTUNE FEIMSTER May 21 Paramount Theatre

ANTONELLI’S CHEESE TASTING W/ BLANTON MUSEUM May 27 Virtual

DONNELL RAWLINGS May 22 & 23 Vulcan Gas Company

CAPTEX TRI May 31 Downtown Austin

Our dining room re-opens in late April, please reserve online. Check our website for updates and reservation link. We will continue to offer curbside for your convenience. EldoradoCafeATX.com

| 3300 W. ANDERSON LN • AUSTIN, TX

C ALENDARS B E S U R E T O C H E C K W E B S I T E S F O R U P D AT E D I N F O R M AT I O N A N D S A F E T Y P R O T O C O L S

Arts

Art SPACES

AFTER MICHELANGELO, PAST PICASSO: LEO STEINBERG’S LIBRARY OF PRINTS Through May 9 Blanton Museum of Art

MESMERIZE Through May 23 Native Hostel

PROVOCATEURS Through May 9 West Chelsea Contemporary

LAURA STURTZ: LINEAR VARIATIONS Through May 29 Link & Pin

COLLECTING BLACK STUDIES Through May 14 Christian-Green Gallery WITH NEW EYES Through May 14 Christian-Green Gallery JEN ROSE SOLO EXHIBIT Through May 15 CAMIBAart Gallery RACHEL LIVEDALEN: IT’S KINDA LIKE THAT Through May 15 Ivester Contemporary DIEDRICK BRACKENS: DARLING DIVINED Through May 16 Blanton Museum of Art ONCE IN A BLUE MOON TWICE Through May 16 Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center A WISHED FOR & WELCOME GUEST Through May 22 Co-Lab Projects CANDE AGUILAR: IT’S ONLY BARRIOPOP BUT I LIKE IT Through May 23 grayDUCK Gallery

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

SOFT Through May 28 Contracommon

PATRICK PUCKETT: SOLO SHOW May 1 – 29 Wally Workman Gallery LANDMARKS VIDEO: THAO NGUYEN PHAN May 1 – 31 ART Building THE WAY BACK ROOM May 8 – July 3 Flatbed Center for Contemporary Printmaking JERÓNIMO REYESRETANA: EPCOT May 15 – June 26 Big Medium GUITAR May 19 – August 15 Bullock Texas State History Museum CREATE & HEAL: INTERSECTION OF ART & JUSTICE May 20 George Washington Carver Museum (Virtual) SEDRICK HUCKABY May 29 – December 5 Blanton Museum of Art GARDEN PARTY June 3 UMLAUF Sculpture Garden & Museum

MUSEUMS BLANTON MUSEUM OF ART 200 E. MLK Jr. Blvd. (512) 471 5482 Hours: Tu–F 10–5, Sa 11–5, Su 1–5 blantonmuseum.org THE BULLOCK TEXAS STATE HISTORY MUSEUM 1800 Congress Ave. (512) 936 8746 Hours: M–Sa 9–5, Su 12–5 thestoryoftexas.com THE CONTEMPORARY AUSTIN –JONES CENTER 700 Congress Ave. (512) 453 5312 Hours: W 12–11, Th–Sa 12–9, Su 12–5 thecontemporaryaustin.org THE CONTEMPORARY AUSTIN–LAGUNA GLORIA 3809 W. 35th St. (512) 458 8191 Driscoll Villa hours: Tu–W 12–4, Th–Su 10–4 Grounds hours: M–Sa 9–5, Su 10–5 thecontemporaryaustin.org ELISABET NEY MUSEUM 304 E. 44th St. (512) 974 1625 Hours: W–Su 12–5 austintexas.gov/department/ elisabet-ney-museum FRENCH LEGATION MUSEUM 802 San Marcos St. (512) 463 7948 Hours: Tu–Su 1–5 frenchlegationmuseum.org

GEORGE WASHINGTON CARVER MUSEUM 1165 Angelina St. (512) 974 4926 Hours: M–W 10–6, Th 10–9, F 10–6, Sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/carver HARRY RANSOM CENTER 300 W. 21st St. (512) 471 8944 Hours: Tu–W 10–5, Th 10–7, F 10–5, Sa–Su 12–5 hrc.utexas.edu LBJ LIBRARY AND MUSEUM 2313 Red River St. (512) 721 0200 Hours: M–Su 9–5 lbjlibrary.org

GALLERIES ADAMS GALLERIES OF AUSTIN 1310 RR 620 S. Ste C4 (512) 243 7429 Hours: M–F 10–6, Su 10-2 adamsgalleriesaustin.com AO5 GALLERY 3005 S. Lamar Blvd. (512) 481 1111 Hours: M–Sa 10–6 ao5gallery.com ART FOR THE PEOPLE 1711 S. 1st St. (512) 761 4708 Hours: Tu–Th 11–6, F-Su 11–7 artforthepeoplegallery.com

MEXIC–ARTE MUSEUM

ARTUS CO. 10000 Research Blvd., Ste. 118 (512) 761 6484 Hours: M–Su 12–6 artusco.com

419 Congress Ave. (512) 480 9373 Hours: M–Th 10–6, F–Sat 10–5, Su 12–5 mexic–artemuseum.org

ARTWORKS GALLERY 1214 W. 6th St. (512) 472 1550 Hours: M–F 10–5, Sa 10–4 artworksaustin.com

O. HENRY MUSEUM 409 E. 5th St. (512) 974 1398 Hours: W–Su 12–5 THINKERY AUSTIN 1830 Simond Ave. (512) 469 6200 Hours: Tu–F 10–5, Sa–Su 10–6 thinkeryaustin.org UMLAUF SCULPTURE GARDEN & MUSEUM 605 Azie Morton Rd. (512) 445 5582 Hours: Tu–F 10–4, Sa–Su 12–4 umlaufsculpture.org

ATELIER 1205 1205 E. Cesar Chavez St. (512) 434 9046 Hours: Tu-F 11-4 atelier1205.com AUSTIN ART GARAGE 2200 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. J (512) 351 5934 Hours: Tu–Su 11–6 austinartgarage.com AUSTIN ART SPACE 7739 Northcross Dr., Ste. Q (512) 763 0646 Hours: F-Sa 11–5 austinartspace.com

AUSTIN GALLERIES 5804 Lookout Mountain Dr. (512) 495 9363 By appointment only austingalleries.com BALE CREEK ALLEN GALLERY 916 Springdale Rd. #103 (512) 633 0545 By appointment only balecreekallengallery.com BIG MEDIUM GALLERY 916 Springdale Rd., Bldg. 2 (512) 939 6665 Hours: Tu–Sa 12–6 bigmedium.org CAMIBAart 6448 Hwy 290 East, Ste. A102 (512) 937 5921 Hours: F-Sa 12–6 camibaart.com CENTRAL LIBRARY GALLERY 710 W. Cesar Chavez St. (512) 974 7400 Hours: M-Th 10-9, F-Sa 10-6, Su 12-6 library.austintexas.gov/ central/gallery CO-LAB PROJECTS 5419 Glissman Rd. (512) 300 8217 By event and appointment only co-labprojects.org DAVIS GALLERY 837 W. 12th St. (512) 477 4929 Hours: M–F 10–6, Sa 10–4 davisgalleryaustin.com DIMENSION GALLERY SCULPTURE AND 3D ART 979 Springdale Rd., Ste. 99 (512) 479 9941 Hours: Th-Sa 10–6 dimensiongallery.org

DOUGHERTY ARTS CENTER 1110 Barton Springs Rd. (512) 974 4000 Hours: M-Th 10–10, F 10–6, Sa 10–4 austintexas.gov/department/ dougherty-arts-center FLATBED CENTER FOR CONTEMPORARY PRINTMAKING 3701 Drossett Dr. (512) 477 9328 Hours: W–F 10–5, Sa 12–5 flatbedpress.com FLUENT COLLABORATIVE 502 W. 33rd St. (512) 453 3199 By appointment only fluentcollab.org GRAYDUCK GALLERY 2213 E. Cesar Chavez St. (512) 826 5334 Hours: Th–Sa 11–6, Su 12–5 grayduckgallery.com ICOSA COLLECTIVE 916 Springdale Rd. #102 (512) 920 2062 Hours: F–Sa 12–6 icosacollective.com JULIA C. BUTRIDGE GALLERY 1110 Barton Springs Rd. (512) 974 4000 Hours: M-Th 10–10, F 10–6, Sa 10–4 austintexas.gov/jcbgallery LA PEÑA 227 Congress Ave., #300 (512) 477 6007 Hours: M–F 8–5, Sa 8–3 lapena–austin.org LINK & PIN 2235 E. 6th St., Ste. 102 (512) 900 8952 Hours: F-Su 12–4 linkpinart.com

LORA REYNOLDS GALLERY 360 Nueces St., #50 (512) 215 4965 Hours: W–Sa 11–6 lorareynolds.com LOTUS GALLERY 1009 W. 6th St., #101 (512) 474 1700 Hours: Tu–Sa 10–6 lotusasianart.com LYDIA STREET GALLERY 1200 E. 11th St. #109 (512) 524 1051 Hours: Sa–Su 12–5, By appointment M–F lydiastreetgallery.com MARTHA’S CONTEMPORARY 4115 Guadalupe St. (512) 695 1437 Hours: W-Su 12-7 facebook.com/ marthascontemporary MASS GALLERY 705 Gunter St. (512) 535 4946 Hours: F 5–8, Sa–Su 12–5 massgallery.org MODERN ROCKS GALLERY 916 Springdale Rd., #103 (512) 524 1488 Hours: Tu–Sa 11–6 modernrocksgallery.com MONDO GALLERY 4115 Guadalupe St. (512) 296 2447 Hours: Tu–Sa 12–6 mondoshop.com NEBULA GALLERY 217 W. 2nd St. (512) 239 9317 Hours: Tu–W 1–6, Th–F 1–7, Sa 12–7, Sun 12–6 thenebulagallery.com NORTHERN-SOUTHERN 1902 E. 12th St. Hours: Sa 3–6:30 northern-southern.com

OLD BAKERY & EMPORIUM 1006 Congress Ave. (512) 974 1300 Hours: Tu–Sa 9–4 austintexas.gov/obemporium PREACHER GALLERY 119 W. 8th St. (512) 489 0200 By appointment only preacher.co/gallery PRIZER GALLERY 2023 E. Cesar Chavez St. (512) 575 3559 Hours: Sa 12–5 prizerartsandletters.org STEPHEN L. CLARK GALLERY 1101 W. 6th St. (512) 507 0828 Hours: Tu-Sa 11–4 stephenlclarkgallery.com VISUAL ARTS CENTER 2300 Trinity St. (512) 471 3713 Hours: Tu–F 10–5, Sa 12–5 utvac.org WALLY WORKMAN GALLERY 1202 W. 6th St. (512) 472 7428 Hours: Tu–Sa 10–5, Su 12–4 wallyworkman.com WEST CHELSEA CONTEMPORARY 1009 W. 6th St. (512) 478 4440 Hours: M–Su 12–6, By appointment 10–12 wcc.art WOMEN & THEIR WORK 1311 E. Cesar Chavez St. (512) 477 1064 Hours: M–F 10–6, Sa 12–6 womenandtheirwork.org

WONDERSPACES AUSTIN 1205 Sheldon Cove, Ste. 2-A Hours: W–Th 3–10, F 4–11, Sa 10–11, Su 10–8 austin.wonderspaces.com YARD DOG 916 Springdale Rd. #103 (512) 912 1613 Hours: F–Sa 1–5, yarddog.com

FREDERICKSBURG ARTISANS — A TEXAS GALLERY 234 W. Main St. (830) 990 8160 artisanstexas.com CATE ZANE GALLERY 107 N. Llano St. (512) 300 0898 catezane.com FREDERICKSBURG ART GUILD 308 E. Austin St. (830) 997 4949 fredericksburgartguild.us INSIGHT GALLERY 214 W. Main St. (830) 997 9920 insightgallery.com KOCH GALLERY 222 W. Main St. (830) 992 3124 bertkoch.com LARRY JACKSON ART & ANTIQUES 201 E. San Antonio St. (830) 997 0073 larryjacksonantiques.com RS HANNA GALLERY 244 W. Main St. (830) 307 3071 URBANHERBAL ART GALLERY 407 Whitney St. (830) 456 9667 urbanherbal.com

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| MAY 2021

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P H OTO G R A P H B Y J E S S I C A AT T I E

FEATURES

STEPPING UP TO THE PLATE

Four chefs shaping Austin’s Asian cuisine, p. 36.

Dis

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NCE AN OUTLIER AT A HANDFUL OF PIONEERING

These local farmers are innovating the future of food by looking to its past BY

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

HANNAH J. PHILLIPS

PHOTOGRAPHS (THIS SPREAD) BY TAYLOR PRINSEN

restaurants, locally sourced menus are now the standard for success at Austin’s finest eateries. Many ingredients travel less than two hours from nearby farms to the tables at Comedor, Hestia, Odd Duck or Suerte. Making a reservation at one of these spots means sampling both the city’s best talent and its freshest local fare, sometimes harvested mere hours before first seating. But there’s more behind “farm to table” than proximity; the journey from pasture to plate is longer than it seems. Every Wednesday morning, Ty Burk and his wife, Sara, wake up early to welcome their weekly delivery at Westfold Farm. Turning down a gravel drive off Ranch Road 12, Burk’s stepfather, Larry, returns from his early morning post office run bearing precious cargo. In his truck are 250 3-day-old chicks— four chirping crates full of fluttering, fist-size fluff and toothpick legs.

Upon arrival, the chicks will take their first feeble steps inside one of three insulated shipping containers, which Burk converted to the farm’s unique brooders. Pioneering a system to protect against predators and the elements, he fitted the containers with electricity, air circulation and watering lines. The chicks will spend their first three to four weeks in these brooders before transferring to the farm’s mobile-range coops. Here, they will grow to maturity over another seven weeks, rotating to fresh pasture daily. In all, the process takes about 10 weeks, nearly a month longer than large-scale operations. “You shouldn’t go from chick to 5-pound bird in six weeks,” says Burk, noting the genetic side effects that outweigh the size benefits of Cornish cross hens from commercial brands. Sourced from a Pennsylvania producer, Westfold’s birds are a middle ground between commercial and heritage breeds, which can take up to 14 weeks. “These birds are both more reliable and economical than heritage broilers, meaning we can be competitive in the market without sacrificing our values around sustainable farming,” Burk says. These values are the major differentiators for farms like Westfold, which began as a backyard hobby before the TOP AND MIDDLE RIGHT: Chicks in Westfold’s unique Burks found land in Driftwood. brooders, which Ty Burk The biggest challenge in scaling (middle left with his wife, Sara) designed. Bottom: the business is just getting their Burk’s stepfather shepherds message out into the world, to chickens in one of the farm’s mobile range coops. restaurants and consumers alike. On top of delivering to local chefs at Odd Duck, Tillie’s, Verbena and more, Westfold started selling at markets in Driftwood and Dripping Springs during the pandemic. Burk quickly refined his elevator pitch, condensing the benefits of locally raised chickens into two or three talking points around ethical farming and the resulting difference in fat, color and flavor. “At the farmers market, you have maybe 30 seconds in that first interaction, so you have to learn how to craft the message in a way that’s compelling,” he says. “Any sustainable urban farmer is doing as much in education as they are in actual farming.” Growing a retail base presents different barriers from building a book of local restaurant clients: If PHOTOGRAPHS (THIS SPREAD) BY TAYLOR PRINSEN

the average consumer’s roadblock is a lack of awareness around sustainability, the challenge with chefs is less about convincing and more about connecting in the first place. Though Burk first met chef Kevin Fink at a dinner several years ago, for example, the pair reconnected when Fink’s team served free meals to Austinites in need during the recent winter storm. Burk braved the frozen roads to provide hundreds of chickens for the initiative, and the menus at Hestia and Emmer & Rye have regularly featured Westfold Farm chicken ever since. Opportunities to forge and cultivate these relationships are few and far between, which Burk considers the main factor keeping Austin from reaching its full potential as a first-class innovator of farm-to-table fare. “Elevated food depends on elevated products, which in turn depends on finding more ways to bring farms to the forefront of the story,” he says. But farmers and chefs keep busy schedules, carving out careers defined by dedication and craftsmanship. “With the level of passion and investment in their technique, both chefs and farmers are artists, and they’re highly dependent on each other to create,” says Trisha Bates, who founded Urban American Farmer in part to facilitate better communication between the two. An urban farmer herself, Bates’ overall mission is to bring communities into active participation in their local foodshed. For consumers, this means educating and equipping people to grow their own food; for restaurants and farmers, it means acting as intermediary, not only by connecting with suppliers but by staying up to date with their latest offerings. “A chef can only create as bright a picture as the raw ingredients he has available,” she says. “If I can help expand that picture, their creativity opens up.” For Bates, that expansion is especially important in a city like Austin, where chefs set the tone for what locals will cook at home. “There’s so much education happening tableside, so when restaurants tell the stories behind ingredients and people start searching for those same

Elevated food depends on elevated products, which in turn depends on finding more ways to bring farms to the forefront of the story. 30

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

things at the farmers market, you can generate demand in a community before supply is even there. When we do that, we create opportunities for farmers to step in and fill that demand.” Bates saw this play out in real time after connecting the culinary team at Comedor with farmer Ben McConnell at Bouldin Food Forest. When Comedor first opened, Bates supplied the lettuce for its signature salad from her own plot in Central Austin. As her crop finished, Comedor took salad off the menu entirely until it could source similar ingredients. Consulting with the team’s vision for the plated dish, Bates asked McConnell to bring samples to the restaurant, and his greens were on the menu by the end of the week.

Trisha Bates surveys rows of carrots, beets and lettuce at Highland Park Urban Farm.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MACKENZIE SMITH KELLEY

Sous-chef Christina Currier holds Comedor’s signature salad.

Any sustainable urban farmer is doing as much in education as they are in actual farming. Blending the bold reds and bright greens of Bouldin’s speckled trout lettuce with dark beets and purple Broccolini from other local farms, the dish is both a work of art and a burst of f lavor unrivaled by store-bought contenders. McConnell attributes this to the plant profile itself, achieved through a delicate process of countless variables in his permaculture approach to farming. Grounded in ancient practices and replicating patterns in natural ecosystems, the holistic land management method centers each design element around minimizing waste, human labor and soil disturbance. Like the process at Westfold, McConnell’s is a longterm strategy: From seed tray to propagation to greenhouse and finally to field tunnel, the salad at Comedor on any given night sprouted up to 12 weeks prior to plating. PHOTOGRAPHS BY MACKENZIE SMITH KELLEY

“The result is a varietal of greens that looks like a giant flower: tender, delicious and nutritious,” says McConnell, describing his product with palpable pride. A former management consultant, McConnell, like Burk, refers to farming as “a hobby that got out of hand.” He first experimented with permaculture in his home garden in South Austin’s Bouldin Creek neighborhood. “If you want to meet your neighbors, dig up your entire front lawn,” he laughs, recounting how his first neighborhood farm stand led to a

second plot in a neighbor’s garden. As demand grew, McConnell eventually managed four lots across Austin before moving the entire operation out to 150 acres in Rogers, Texas. Today, he supplies to restaurants, CSAs, school districts, farmers markets and both locations of Wheatsville. He met Bates at a farmers market and bonded over a shared passion for the dramatic impact of locally grown produce. “The difference in health, taste and even aesthetics when food is harvested and consumed

Do Try This at Home If you’re ready to re-create this work of art from the comfort of your own home, chef Philip Speer walks us through Comedor’s signature salad.

FROM LOCAL PURVEYORS:

Spring mix: Bouldin Food Forest Herb mix: HausBar Urban Farm Market vegetables (seasonal): Highland Park Urban Farm, Steelbow Farm, Gundermann Acres REMAINING SALAD AND DRESSING INGREDIENTS:

½ cup pepitas 2 ½ teaspoons salt 2 limes, juiced and zested, separated 1 poblano (deseeded) 1 serrano (keep seeds) 3 cloves garlic 1 medium tomatillo 1 tablespoon white vinegar 1 leaf hoja santa 5 sprigs cilantro (including stem) 3 sprigs epazote leaf 5 sprigs parsley (including stem) 1 tablespoon avocado oil/olive oil sea salt (preferably Maldon) Pepita Dukkah (or nut mix or puffed grains)

4. 5.

in the food processor. Put the chopped vegetables, the juice and zest of the second lime, 1 ½ teaspoons salt and vinegar into the processor with the pepitas. Pulse to incorporate ingredients until dressing is loose and vegetables are pulverized. Chop the hoja santa, cilantro, epazote and parsley and add them to the food processor. This will help break down the herbs into the dressing. Blend in the oil to emulsify the dressing. Adjust for taste with more salt, lime juice or vinegar

TO ASSEMBLE THE SALAD:

2. 3.

Start by placing a pool of dressing on the bottom of a bowl. Place a layer of greens atop the dressing so that the greens just cover the dressing, and lightly salt the greens with sea salt. Using a small spoon, lightly dress the layer of greens with more dressing. Remember,

a salad should be more like chips and dip and less like an overdressed, soggy pile of lettuce. Let’s celebrate the greens and taste each one! In this next step, we like to add seasonal herbs from HausBar Urban Farm for taste and texture. Fresh herbs add a richness and complexity to the salad. Lightly dress some of the greens with a bit more dressing and more greens. Salt and herb up! Next, add thinly sliced market vegetables: maybe some shaved radishes from Highland Park Urban Farm, some Broccolini tops from Steelbow Farm or some sliced carrots from Gundermann Acres. Add a bit more dressing, some salt, herbs and one last layer! At Comedor, we finish with our Pepita Dukkah. At home, however, any nuts or puffed grains will work.

And there you have it, a delicious farm-fresh salad with ingredients sourced exclusively from our local producers.

FOR THE DRESSING:

1 leaf hoja santa 5 sprigs cilantro (including stem) 3 sprigs epazote leaf 5 sprigs parsley (including stem) 1 poblano (deseeded) 1 serrano (keep seeds) 3 clove garlic 1 tbsp white vinegar 1.5 tsp salt 1 lime 1 medium tomatillo 1 tbsp avocado oil/olive oil 1.

First, toast the pepitas to a golden consistency. Let soak for 1 hour in ½ cup of water, 1 teaspoon salt and juice and zest of 1 lime. Blend in Vitamix or food processor until fully incorporated. Roughly chop the poblano, serrano, garlic and tomatillo so that they’ll blend easier

While the salad always features greens from Bouldin Food Forest, other ingredients rotate seasonally, depending on availability from other local farms. tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

FA R M M I X : P H OTO G R A P H B Y H O L LY CO WA R T

within 24 hours is just tenfold,” he says. “The ability to have food almost instantaneously out of the ground is just transformative.” Bates agrees, noting how the pandemic and recent snowstorm exposed the fragility of our modern foodsheds. “The last year has shown that we can change our habits almost immediately when we need to,” she says, ref lecting on how chefs and farmers stepped up when larger supply chains failed—Burk’s partnership with Fink during the winter freeze a prime example. But beyond food security, Bates believes people are slowly seeing the benefits of investing in local food systems beyond the restaurant: What you relish at Comedor or Hestia on Saturday, you

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

can re-create on Sunday with a Ben McConnell explains the process quick trip to the farmers market. at Bouldin Food As the world returns to some Forest. Austinites can find the packaged semblance of normality, she products (top right) at hopes to continue bridging the Wheatsville and local farmers markets. gap between chefs and farmers, but also between the wider cultural chasm of convenience and intentionality. “As a community, we have the opportunity to reprogram our expectations around food,” she says. “We have to choose the battle for better habits that benefit both ourselves and our community. When we do that, we connect the dots between the health of our land, our restaurants and ourselves.”

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TRAVIS HALLMARK

PASS ITON

Four chefs redefining Austin’s Asian cuisine, crafting legacies of connection and community

BY COURTNEY RUNN PHOTOGRAPHS BY JESSICA

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

ATTIE

When chef Ling Qi Wu moved to Austin in 2000, there was little interest in the cuisine of her childhood: Most locals preferred burgers and barbecue to dumplings. Originally from the Fujian province of China, Ling immigrated to New York in 1999 before following her husband to Texas. She took her first restaurant job out of necessity, but found the industry a natural fit given her upbringing in her grandmother’s kitchen. Some 20 years later, the Austin food world is unrecognizable, attracting award-winning chefs and representing a greater diversity of cultures. Locals and tourists alike now clamor for elevated international fare. Though by no means the first to serve Asian food in Austin, when Uchi chef Tyson Cole won a James Beard Award in 2011, it created a rising tide for future chefs by shining a national spotlight on the city for the first time. After decades of underrepresentation in the local food scene, the entrepreneurial women at the helm of these four restaurants are leading a new generation of chefs with bold flavors and mentorship-driven cultures. OPPOSITE:

Chef Ling Qi Wu stands outside her new Sixth Street concept, Qi Austin Modern Asian Kitchen, where guests can find crispy Szechuan peppercorn alligator on the menu (left). tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

N Ariana Quant adds finishing touches to her signature Uchiko dessert, the Jasmine Cream.

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

AMED EXECUTIVE PA STRY CHEF FOR HAI HOSPITALIT Y

in November 2020, Ariana Quant oversees the dessert menus at Uchiko, Uchiba in Dallas and the Uchi outposts in Austin, Houston, Dallas, Denver and Miami. She pays regular visits to each Uchi restaurant, always blending different geographical palates while remaining true to Uchi’s—and her own—style of balanced, clean flavors. In Dallas, she focuses on “rich, gluttonous desserts,” whereas in Austin and Denver, she knows diners prefer lighter, fruitier morsels. In Miami, the newest Uchi location, she understands that locals will expect showy desserts highlighting tropical fruits. One of her favorite creations on the Uchiko menu is the Jasmine Cream, a delicate dessert with layers of crunchy honey tuile, whipped jasmine-teainfused cream and a cilantro granita, topped with fresh pineapple and edible flowers. The confection exemplifies Quant’s endless pursuit of the perfect but surprising bite. As the only female chef on the operations team, she’s also helping change the culture of the male-dominated sushi industry. “It’s not traditional in Japanese culture to have women on the sushi bar, so we filled a sushi bar full of them and it was fantastic,” she says. She takes the role of mentorship seriously, working alongside cooks to bring their pastry visions from mind to plate and maintaining a line of support even when she’s not physically at each restaurant. Helping more women find a place in the kitchen is especially rewarding.

IT’S NOT TRADITIONAL IN JAPANESE CULTURE TO HAVE WOMEN ON THE SUSHI BAR, SO WE FILLED A SUSHI BAR FULL OF THEM AND IT WAS FANTASTIC.

tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

In addition to Thai Fresh, Jam Sanitchat owns and operates Gati, a vegan ice cream shop in East Austin.

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

Green curry with chicken (above) and glass noodle salad both feature local, seasonal vegetables at Thai Fresh.

For the past 13 years, Jam Sanitchat has also been creating a welcoming community for cooks and customers alike at Thai Fresh. Sanitchat moved to Austin from her home in Bangkok in 2001, the same year local Thai chain Madam Mam’s launched and five years after now-shuttered Thai Passion debuted. After studying communications at the University of Texas, she started teaching Thai cooking classes, relying on childhood recipes from her mother. As demand grew, she found a brick-and-mortar location in 2008, eventually offering both groceries and takeout. After several years of daily classes, she saved up for new equipment, installing woks overnight and opening Thai Fresh in 2012. While growing her business, Sanitchat was surprised that sourcing local ingredients was not the standard as it was in Thailand. From the beginning, fare from Central Texas farms led to a seasonal rotation in her staple dishes, and while the recipes have stayed the same, her menu has taken on a Texas flair with Thai tacos and a spicy fried-chicken sandwich. Her restaurant was also an early adopter of the gluten-free movement, prompted by Sanitchat’s own wheat allergy. Thai Fresh’s longevity in Austin has certainly secured its place in the industry, but Sanitchat’s care for her staff has left its own legacy. In 2016, she introduced a no-tipping policy, increasing her menu prices to offer higher pay, health insurance and time off for a happier team and low turnover. Oseyo’s Lynn Miller remembers interning at Thai Fresh early in her career tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

as a student at Natural Epicurean, a plant-based culinary program. She says Sanitchat quickly took her under her wing, giving Miller a front-row view of her commitment to growing and sourcing fresh food—a trait Miller borrowed in her own Korean American restaurant close to a decade later. Growing up in Dallas, Miller was always explaining Korean food to friends. Dallas fostered numerous Chinese and Japanese restaurants, but Miller didn’t see much Korean representation beyond the mom and pop restaurants of her parents’ friends. They were good, but her teenage mind kept coming back to the same question: “Wouldn’t it be neat to have a really cool Korean restaurant?” After studying and working in New York, she returned to Texas and eventually moved to Austin with her husband. With two kids and a real estate business, she initially turned down an offer to buy a restaurant space. But her childhood ambitions kept nagging at her, and in 2019, she opened Oseyo, a chic East Austin restaurant celebrating Korean American culture and showcasing her mother’s recipes. Opening the restaurant realized her lifelong dream, but it also forced Miller to wrestle with her Korean American identity. She marketed her concept as traditional Korean in a modern atmosphere. But native Koreans were confused by her menu, some even venturing to deem it what Miller calls the biggest jab a critic can give—inauthentic. “I feel like I’ve poured my heart and soul into this place, so I don’t know how it’s not authentic,” she says. Food itself, she’s come to realize, can never be inauthentic if it’s a true representation of the creator’s lived experience. Instead of going back to the drawing board, she embraced the middle ground she often finds herself in as a Korean American, not fully connecting to either culture.

Jjajangmyeon (left) and kimchi jigae (right) are staples on the menu at Oseyo.

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

FOOD ITSELF CAN NEVER BE INAUTHENTIC IF IT’S A TRUE REPRESENTATION OF THE CREATOR’S LIVED EXPERIENCE.

Lynn Miller, pictured in the dining room at Oseyo on East Cesar Chavez. tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

A full plate at Qi (left) might include truffle egg fried rice (right), curry seafood delight, sautéed pea shoots, a selection of dumplings and the Szechuan peppercorn alligator.

THIS IS THE BEAUTY OF AMERICA: AN 80-YEAR-OLD KOREAN AMERICAN GRANDMOTHER COULD IMPART RECIPES TO A MEXICAN AMERICAN CHEF. “When I would go to Korea, they would say you’re not Korean,” she says. “When I’m here, I’m always Korean. And the reality is, I’m really not either.” She’s intentionally reframed her language, now summarizing her vision as Korean American food in a fun setting because her restaurant is truly a love letter to both cultures, reveling in the resourcefulness, nourishment and celebration that is Korean food—and driven by an American spirit of melding cultures. Crafting the menu, she invited her mother to teach chef Mike Diaz her home recipes. The two tinkered in the kitchen together, getting each recipe Miller grew up with just right. “This is the beauty of America,” Miller says. “An 80-year-old Korean American grandmother could impart recipes to a Mexican American chef.” Passing on generational knowledge is also the driving mission behind Ling’s food—and success. After serving as the dim sum chef at Wu Chow,

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

she opened her own restaurant, Lin Asian Bar, in Clarksville in 2018 and followed its triumph with Qi in 2020. If her first restaurant evokes fond childhood memories for older generations, she describes her latest eatery as the trendy downtown spot where you want to bring your friends, with a menu skewing more modern than traditional. But her goal with both restaurants remains the same: to create an atmosphere where people put down their phones and truly connect with one another over food that sparks conversation. Ling worries the ancient techniques and food traditions her grandmother taught her will be lost in time. “Don’t give up on learning new stuff,” Ling often encourages her team, remembering how she first arrived in New York with little money or English. Just as she slowly learned, she’s committed to helping others do the same, giving back to the Austin community by offering a space for connection and celebration.

The curry seafood delight features shrimp, scallops, mussels, lobster and seasonal vegetables in an Asian curry sauce.

tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

“Undeniably Delicious” TRIBEZA

Lunch M-F 11-2 Dinner Nightly 4-10 Happy Hour Daily 4-6

gustoitaliankitchen.com EST 2012 4800 BURNET ROAD 512.458.1100

Qi Austin Modern Asian Kitchen has it all, p. 48.

P H OTO G R A P H B Y H O L LY CO WA R T

FOOD + DRINK

DIM SUM AND THEN SOME

tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

KAREN'S PICK

Showstopper QI AUSTIN MODERN ASIAN KITCHEN DA Z ZLES WITH DESIGN, DUMPLINGS AND DECADENT DESSERTS By Karen O. Spezia Photographs by Holly Cowart

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

’VE ALWAYS BEEN A FAN OF CHEF LING QI WU. BUT SHE EARNED MY

Chef Ling Qi Wu’s iconic soup dumplings are joined by her restaurant’s equally recognizable artwork, like the breathtaking mural that stretches behind the bar.

undying respect when she had the chutzpah to open a new restaurant in the middle of the pandemic. Not just any restaurant, but a big fancy one in a glitzy new downtown skyscraper. It was a bold move during a time when its storefront on West Sixth Street was so deserted that Texas tumbleweeds practically rolled down the sidewalks, rather than the usual pre-COVID throngs of office workers, nightclubbers, bachelorette parties and pedi-pubs. Yes, chef Ling has courage. And faith. And vision. But while I appreciate her moxie, I appreciate her food even more. For decades, I’ve followed her career around Austin, from the kitchens of Chinatown and Wu Chow, to opening her own place, Lin Asian Bar, and now to her new showstopper, Qi Austin Modern Asian Kitchen. With each move, she only gets better, fine-tuning her culinary skills and continuing to surprise and delight with her Asian delicacies. At Qi, Ling can stretch her legs a bit. She’s been able to showcase not only an upscale new menu, but also her striking sense of style and design. Even at her tiny, humble Lin Asian Bar, she found a way to insert some beauty and pizazz. But at Qi, she had a sprawling clean slate to really dazzle her diners. With plenty of space to socially distance, the open dining room features soaring exposed-beam ceilings with industrial f lying buttresses. Unexpected explosions of color are found among the modern Asian chandeliers, ancient handicrafts, polished wood furniture and glamorous cocktail bar. Natural light streams in from the outdoor dining patio that overlooks trickling Shoal Creek and once-again-bustling Sixth Street. From top to bottom, the place is gorgeous. The food complements Qi’s elegant interior, where Ling experiments with luxury ingredients like lobster, caviar and truffles while still offering tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

KAREN'S PICK

FROM LEFT:

Sautéed pea shoots, Spicy Chicken with Pine Nuts, Pan Fried Akaushi Beef Bao and Zha Jiang Noodles.

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

traditional Asian favorites. Ling’s dim sum is legendary around town and her Shanghai soup dumplings are her calling card. These delicate steamed morsels, bursting with a brothy pork filling, are an unparalleled musthave. Although all the dim sum options are top-notch, other standouts include the pan-seared basil chicken dumplings, pan-fried Akaushi beef bao, chicken with cashew dumplings and translucent shrimp Har Kaw. Entrées include crowd-pleasing favorites like sesame chicken and Peking duck, but also delightfully different choices like spicy chicken with pine nuts. I’m addicted to the Zha Jiang noodles, paired with a savory ground meat sauce and brightened with julienned cucumbers. And vegetables, supplied by nearby Lanfang Farm, are worthy of their own spotlight, especially the sautéed pea shoots. For indulging, some of Ling’s new upscale and exotic offerings include scallop shumai with caviar, lobster dumplings, truff le egg fried rice and Szechuan peppercorn alligator. Desserts, like the signature Mango Bomb, look like sculpted works of art. Drinks are serious business and extend well beyond the typical hot tea and cold Tsingtao. Cocktails are first-rate and the wine list has impressive selections from around the globe. Lucky for Austin, the wildly talented and quietly determined QI AUSTIN MODERN chef Ling didn’t let a pandemic thwart her plans for opening ASIAN KITCHEN 835 WEST SIXTH STREET Qi. In the middle of this unprecedented time, she unflinchingly (512) 474-2777 planted her flag on the abandoned streets of downtown Austin QIAUSTIN.COM and graced our city with a restaurant that’s a feast for our eyes and our stomachs. tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

24 DINER

BLUE DAHLIA BISTRO

COMEDOR

600 N. Lamar Blvd. | (512) 472 5400

3663 Bee Cave Rd. | (512) 306 1668

501 Colorado St. | (512) 499 0977

Chef Andrew Curren’s casual eatery promises

A cozy French bistro serving up breakfast, lunch, and

Hiding in plain sight on one of downtown’s busiest street

delicious plates 24/7 and a menu featuring

dinner in a casual setting. Pop in for the happy hour to share

corners, Comedor is a restaurant full of surprises. Lauded

nostalgic diner favorites. Order up the classics,

a bottle of your favorite wine and a charcuterie board.

chef Philip Speer delivers a menu that is equally clever

including roasted chicken, burgers, all-day breakfast and decadent milkshakes.

and unexpected, with contemporary cuisine riffs on Mexican

BUFALINA & BUFALINA DUE 6555 Burnet Rd. | (512) 215 8662

34TH STREET CAFE

This intimate restaurant serves up mouthwatering pizzas,

1005 W. 34th St. | (512) 371 3400

consistently baked with crispy edges and soft centers. The

This neighborhood spot in North Campus serves

famous Neapolitan technique is executed by the Stefano

up soups, salads, pizzas and pastas — but don’t

Ferrara wood-burning ovens, which runs at more than 900

miss the chicken piccata. The low-key setting

degrees. Lactose-intolerants beware, there is no shortage

makes it great for weeknight dinners and weekend

of cheese on this menu!

indulgences.

CAFÉ NO SÉ

ARLO GREY

1603 S. Congress Ave. | (512) 942 2061

111 E Cesar Chavez St. | (512) 478 2991

South Congress Hotel’s Café No Sé balances rustic décor

Arlo Grey is the debut restaurant from “Top Chef”

and a range of seasonal foods to make it the best place

10 winner and “Fast Foodies’’ star Kristen Kish.

for weekend brunching. The restaurant’s spin on the classic

Found inside the LINE Hotel, the picturesque lake-

avocado toast is a must-try.

culinary traditions.

EASY TIGER 3508 S. Lamar Blvd. | (512) 964 8229 6406 N I-35 Frontage Rd., Ste. 1100 | (512) 494 4151 1501 E. 7th St. | (512) 839 8523 Easy Tiger lures in both drink and food enthusiasts with a delicious bakeshop upstairs and a casual beer garden downstairs. Sip on some local brew and grab a hot, fresh pretzel. Complete your snack with beer, cheese and an array of dipping sauces.

side spot has received praise for its intentional design and elegant, French-and-Italian-inflected

CICLO

take on Texas ingredients.

98 San Jacinto Blvd. | (512) 685 8300 Ciclo is a modern Texas kitchen featuring locally inspired

ASTI TRATTORIA

flavors and ingredients with a Latin influence, all brought

408 E. 43rd St. | (512) 451 1218

to life through a unique collaboration between Chef de

The chic little Hyde Park trattoria offers essential

Cuisine James Flowers and world-renowned restaurateur,

Italian dishes along with a variety of wines

Richard Sandoval. Ciclo’s name reflects its focus on menu

to pair them with. Finish off your meal with the

offerings that change seasonally, from ceviches, crudos and

honey-and-goat-cheese panna cotta.

grilled and smoked meats to inventive cocktails.

BARLEY SWINE

CLARK'S OYSTER BAR

6555 Burnet Rd., Ste. 400 | (512) 394 8150

1200 W. 6th St. | (512) 297 2525

James Beard Award–nominated chef Bryce Gilmore

Small and always buzzing, Clark's extensive caviar and

encourages sharing with small plates made from

oyster menu, sharp aesthetics and excellent service make

locally sourced ingredients, served at communal

it a refreshing indulgence on West Sixth Street. Chef

tables. Try the parsley croissants with bone

Larry McGuire brings East Coast-inspired vibes to this

marrow or Gilmore’s unique take on fried chicken.

seafood restaurant.

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

ELDORADO CAFE

3300 W. Anderson Lane | (512) 420 2222 eldoradocafeatx.com Eldorado Cafe exemplifies old school Austin, resonating the beat of early 90’s, sending out hot plates of the most decadently delicious and sometimes healthy eating you will find in Austin. Mexican style comfort food with a deep honor towards the historical eateries that have made Austin great. Come see us.

AS R E S TAU R A N TS R EO P E N, B E S U R E TO C H EC K T H E I R W E BS I T ES FO R U P DAT E D H O U R S , S A F ET Y P R OTO CO L S A N D TO-GO/DELIVERY OPTIONS.

ÉPICERIE

HOPFIELDS

2307 Hancock Dr. | (512) 371 6840

3110 Guadalupe St. | (512) 537 0467

A café and grocery with both Louisiana and

A gastropub with French inclinations, offering a

French sensibilities by Thomas Keller–trained chef

beautiful patio and unique cocktails. The beer, wine and

Sarah McIntosh. Lovers of brunch are

cocktail options are plentiful and the perfect pairing

encouraged to stop in here for a bite on Sundays.

for the restaurant’s famed steak frites and moules frites.

FONDA SAN MIGUEL

JEFFREY’S

2330 W. N Loop Blvd. | (512) 459 4121

1204 W. Lynn St. | (512) 477 5584

At Fonda San Miguel, authentic Interior Mexican

Named one of Bon Appétit’s “10 Best New Restaurants

food is lovingly served inside a colorful hacienda-style

in America,” this historic Clarksville favorite has

restaurant. The art-adorned walls and indoor, plant-

maintained the execution, top-notch service, and luxurious

filled courtyard provide a pleasant escape in North Austin. Visit the Sunday brunch for a new menu with the most delicious interior Mexican brunch cuisine.

FOREIGN & DOMESTIC 306 E. 53rd St. | (512) 459 1010 Small neighborhood restaurant in the North Loop area serving unique dishes. Chefs-owners Sarah Heard and Nathan Lemley serve thoughtful, locally sourced food with an international twist at reasonable prices. Go early on Tuesdays

GUSTO ITALIAN KITCHEN + WINE BAR

but welcoming atmosphere that makes it an Austin staple.

4800 Burnet Road | (512) 458 1100 gustoitaliankitchen.com

JOSEPHINE HOUSE

Nestled in the Rosedale neighborhood of north-

Rustic Continental fare with an emphasis on fresh,

central Austin, Gusto captures the warm, comforting,

local and organic ingredients. Like its sister restaurant,

every-day flavors of Italian cuisine. Dishes range from

Jeffrey’s, Josephine House is another one of

house-made antipasti to hand-formed pizzas, salads,

Bon Appétit’s “10 Best New Restaurants in America.”

panini, fresh pasta, entrees featuring Texas farm

Find a shady spot on the patio and indulge in fresh

raised meats, and scratch desserts. Craft cocktails,

baked pastries and a coffee.

1601 Waterston Ave. | (512) 477 5584

beer on tap, and boutique wines. JUNE’S ALL DAY

for $1 oysters.

1722 S. Congress Ave. | (512) 416 1722

GOODALL’S KITCHEN AND BAR

HANK’S

1900 Rio Grande St. | (512) 495 1800

5811 Berkman Dr. | (512) 609 8077

Housed in the beautiful Hotel Ella, Goodall’s

Delicious food and drinks, an easygoing waitstaff

provides modern spins on American classics.

and a kid-friendly patio all work together to make

Dig into a fried-mortadella egg sandwich and

Hank’s a favorite neighborhood joint. With happy hour

pair it a with cranberry-thyme cocktail.

every day from 3-6:30, the hardest task will be choosing between their frosé and frozen paloma.

GRIZZELDA’S

This wine-focused restaurant is complemented by serious cocktails and a menu of approachable bistro favorites. Inspired by Paris cafes, Spanish tapas bodegas and urban wine bars, June’s encourages sipping, noshing and lingering.

JUNIPER 2400 E Cesar Chavez St #304 | (512) 220 9421 Uchi Alumni Chef Nicholas Yanes fuses central Texas

105 Tillery St. | (512) 366 5908

HILLSIDE FARMACY

inf luences and local farm produce with Italian

This charming East Austin spot lies somewhere

1209 E. 11th St. | (512) 628 0168

fare. Start with puffy potatoes and the Chef ’s Brand

between traditional Tex-Mex and regional Mexican

Hillside Farmacy is located in a beautifully

New Cadillac Negroni.

recipes, each fused with a range of f lavors

restored 1950s-style pharmacy with a lovely porch on the

and styles. The attention to detail in each dish shines

East Side. Oysters, cheese plates and nightly dinner spe-

and the tortillas are made in-house daily.

cials are whipped up by chef Sonya Cote. tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

JUSTINE’S BRASSERIE 4710 E. 5th St. | (512) 385 2900

LIN ASIAN BAR + DIM SUM

Justine’s is a quaint French brasserie deep in East

Located in a vintage West Sixth Street bungalow, Chef

Austin. Don’t let the short drive deter you — the

Ling and her team create sophisticated Chinese dishes

experience of eating traditional French plates among

that draw enthusiastic crowds day and night. Make

exquisite works of art and decorative string lights

sure to stop by during weekend brunch to taste the full

makes for one idyllic evening with a significant other.

mouthwatering dim sum menu.

ODD DUCK 1201 S Lamar Blvd | (512) 433 6521 Famed food trailer turned brick-and-mortar, Odd Duck is the first venture from acclaimed chef Bryce Gilmore. Expect seasonal fare and drinks with a strong Texas inf luence sourced locally whenever possible.

KEMURI TATSU-YA 2713 E. 2nd St. | (512) 893 5561 Kemuri Tatsu-Ya is a Japanese-Texan mash-up that injects seriously good food with a sense of humor. The East Austin joint features Asian-inspired smoked meats and seafood, along with yakitori, ramen, and izakaya classics meant for sharing. Drinks are also an integral part of the meal, so come thirsty.

LICHA’S CANTINA 1306 E. 6th St. | (512) 480 5960 Located in the heart of East 6th, Licha’s is a quick trip to the interior of Mexico. With masa made fresh in house and a large range of tequilas and mezcal, Licha’s Cantina is a celebration of authentic Mexican cuisine. The music, food and ambiance will get you ready for a night out on the town.

PARKSIDE 301 E. 6th St. | (512) 474 9898 Patrons f lock to this downtown hideaway for its wide selection of oysters and other modernAmerican specialties. The 6th Street locale is filled with industrial details and plenty of natural light, so it’s no wonder that reservations are often necessary to get a table in the inviting space.

LA BARBECUE

LORO

THE PEACHED TORTILLA 5520 Burnet Rd., #100 | (512) 330 4439 This cheerful spot is sure to clear your weekly blues with friendly staff, fun food and a playful atmosphere. Affordably priced, you’ll find culinary influences from around the world with a healthy dose of Asian and Southern options.

2027 E. Cesar Chavez St. | (512) 605 9696 Though it may not be as famous as that other Austin barbecue joint, La Barbecue is arguably just as delicious. This trailer, which is owned by the legendary Mueller family, serves up classic barbecue with free beer and live music.

LAS PALOMAS 3201 Bee Caves Rd., #122 | (512) 327 9889 One of the hidden jewels in Westlake, this unique restaurant and bar offers authentic interior Mexican cuisine in a sophisticated yet relaxed setting. Enjoy family recipes made with fresh ingredients. Don’t miss the margaritas.

LENOIR 1807 S. 1st St. | (512) 215 9778 A gorgeous spot to enjoy a luxurious French-inspired prix fixe meal. Almost every ingredient served at Lenoir comes locally sourced from Central Texas, making the unique, seasonal specialties even more enjoyable. Sit in the wine garden for happy hour and enjoy bottles from the top wine-producing regions in the world.

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

1203 W. 6th St. | (512) 474 5107

2115 S. Lamar Blvd. | (512) 916 4858 Created by James Beard Award winners Tyson Cole and Aaron Franklin, this Asian smokehouse is a welcome addition to South Lamar. The expansive indoor-outdoor space, designed by Michael Hsu Office of Architecture, is welcoming and open, and unsurprisingly the food does not disappoint. Don’t miss out on the sweet corn fritters, smoked beef brisket, thai green curry or those potent boozy slushies.

MATTIE’S 811 W. Live Oak St. | (512) 444 1888 Mattie’s is a glorious urban paradise offering upscale American classics. While the cocktails are top-notch and the cuisine is nothing short of outstanding, Mattie’s ambiance and atmosphere are unmatched. OLAMAIE 1610 San Antonio St. | (512) 474 2796 Food+Wine magazine’s best new chef Michael Fojtasek creates a menu that will leave any Southerner drooling with delight over the restaurant’s contemporary culinary concepts. The dessert menu offers a classic apple pie or a more trendy goat cheese-caramel ice cream. Also, do yourself a favor and order the biscuits.

PICNIK 4801 Burnet Rd. | (737) 226 0644 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. | (512) 293-6118 A perfect place to find wholesome food for any type of dietary restriction in a bright and airy setting. This place truly lives out the “good and good for you” concept with paleo-friendly options and thoughtfully sourced ingredients. POOL BURGER 2315 Lake Austin Blvd. | (512) 334 9747 Tiki meets Texas in this neighborhood burger bar. Located behind Deep Eddy Cabaret, crunchy crinkle-cut fries and juicy burgers are served from the window of a 1968 Airstream Land Yacht.

AS R E S TAU R A N TS R EO P E N, B E S U R E TO C H EC K T H E I R W E BS I T ES FO R U P DAT E D H O U R S , S A F ET Y P R OTO CO L S A N D TO-GO/DELIVERY OPTIONS.

RED ASH ITALIA

TINY BOXWOODS

303 Colorado St. #200 | (512) 379 2906

1503 W. 35th St. | (512) 220 0698

Red Ash Italia strikes the perfect balance between

This Houston-based brand now serves its simple

high-quality food and enticing ambiance.

and delicious food in Austin’s Bryker

This Italian steakhouse is led by an all-star team,

Woods neighborhood. Favorites include house-

including executive chef John Carver. Sit back,

ground burgers, salmon Provencal

relax and enjoy an exceptional evening.

salad and their chocolate chip cookies.

ROSEWOOD GULF COAST CHOP HOUSE

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN 222 West Ave. | (512) 777 2430 11410 Century Oaks Terrace, Suite 100 | (512) 992-0685 Inspired by Dr. Andrew Weil’s anti-inflammatory diet, True Food Kitchen combines decadent favorites with health-conscious eating. The restaurant, located in downtown’s Seaholm district, offers a full range of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options.

1209 Rosewood Ave. | (512) 838 6205 Housed in a historic East Side cottage, this spot is quickly becoming a staple. Chef Jesse DeLeon pays outstanding homage to his South Texas roots with seasonal offerings from Gulf Coast fishermen and Hill Country farmers and ranchers.

SUERTE 1800 E. 6th St. | (512) 953 0092 Helmed by executive chef Fermín Núñez, Suerte was inspired by extensive travels through Central Mexico. Artisanal masa is the highlight, made from local heirloom corn and used in distinctive dishes rarely found on Austin menus. Order the delectable Suadero Tacos, perfect for sharing with friends.

UCHIKO 4200 N. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 140 | (512) 916 4808 The sensational sister creation of Uchi and former home of Top Chef Paul Qui and renowned chefs Page Presley and Nicholas Yanes, Uchiko is an Austin icon that everyone should visit at least once. Try the bacon tataki.

TEXAS FRENCH BREAD

VERBENA

2900 Rio Grande St. | (512) 499 0544

612 W. 6th St. | (512) 991 3019

For decades, TFB has been a go-to destination

Located in downtown’s chic new Canopy hotel

for high-quality European-style breads, pastries

and designed by Lake Flato Architects, Verbena

and seasonally inspired bistro meals. Whether

offers vegetable-forward dishes that highlight

grabbing a coffee and pastry on the f ly, having

regionally sourced meat, fish and poultry. Chef

casual business lunches with colleagues or

Nic Yanes (Juniper, Uncle Nicky’s) is at the helm.

enjoying the charming patio for an alfresco dinner, this neighborhood spot is an Austin favorite.

THAI FRESH 909 W. Mary St. | (512) 494 6436 A restaurant, cooking school and market all in

VIXEN’S WEDDING 1813 E. 6th St. Suite A | (737) 242 7555 Vixen’s Wedding is a charming space creating something truly unique. Helmed by culinary super-

one place. When you’re done dining on traditional

couple Todd Duplechan and Jessica Maher, the

Thai favorites, stop by the adjoining coffee bar

restaurant specializes in Goan cuisine, a cultural

for freshly brewed joe, homemade ice cream and

mash-up of bright and complex f lavors.

an array of baked goods.

WATERLOO ICE HOUSE Escarpment Boulevard: 9600 Escarpment Blvd | (512) 301 1007 Burnet Road: 8600 Burnet Rd | (512) 458 6544 360 & 2222: 6203 N Capital of Texas Hwy | (512) 418 9700 Southpark Meadows: 9600 S IH 35 Frontage Rd | (512) 292 7900 waterlooicehouse.com

Waterloo Ice House is celebrating 45 years of being a staple of the Austin community. With four family-friendly, locally-owned locations nestled in various Austin neighborhoods, Waterloo boasts an extensive menu of scratch-made breakfast, lunch & dinner items, full bars, happy hour & daily specials, weekend brunch, large patios, multiple TVs, playscapes & more.

WINEBELLY 519 W. Oltorf S. | (512) 487 1569 Named one of the top-20 wine bars in America by Wine Enthusiast, Winebelly boasts an international wine list and Spanish-Mediterranean small plates.The bistro maintains a local feel with its comfortable, laid-back interiors.

WU CHOW 500 W. 5th St., #168 | (512) 476 2469 From the curators of Swift’s Attic, Wu Chow is expanding Austin’s cuisine offerings with traditional Chinese dishes sourced from local purveyors and farmers. Don’t miss the weekend dim sum menu. tribeza.com

| MAY 2021

A LOOK BEHIND

A Family Legacy CELEBR ATING THE MAN BEHIND AUSTIN’S LONGEST-RUNNING CHINESE RESTAUR ANT By Hannah J. Phillips Photograph by Mackenzie Smith Kelley

OMPILING A COVER STORY ON CHEFS

shaping Asian cuisine in Austin, we would be remiss not to mention Ronald Cheng, whose family has owned restaurants in the city for over 50 years. Cheng grew up helping his mother and aunt in the kitchen of their restaurant, Sisters, which they started in 1970 on Burnet Road. As Austin’s first immigrant-owned Chinese restaurant, Sisters inspired both Cheng’s cooking and his entrepreneurial mindset. Opening his first Chinatown location in Westlake in 1983, he added a flagship location off MoPac in 1987—likely making it the longest continually operated Chinese restaurant in the city. Chinatown went on to add multiple locations over the next four decades, but Cheng’s legacy is bigger than the brand’s longevity. In the early days of the pandemic, the Chinatown team donated over 1,500 meals to those in need, partnering with nonprofits like Keep Austin Fed, the Salvation Army and the Austin EMS Association to serve people suffering from homelessness, job loss and food insecurity. As we celebrate the future of Asian food in Austin, we also want to honor the enormous and ongoing impact of the Cheng family in our community.

MAY 2021 | tribeza.com

Cheng at his flagship Chinatown location in North Austin.

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