K AREN'S PICK | FOOD + THOUGHT
Geraldine’s I N A DA Z Z L I NG SP OT H IG H A B OV E R A I N E Y S T R E E T, A V E T E R A N CH E F DE L I V E R S A S M UCH S U B S TA NCE A S S T Y L E
by Karen Spezia Photography by Reagen Taylor
arch in Austin means good times. You’re either skipping town for spring break (see ya in Colorado) or flying in for SXSW (welcome, pardner). But if you’re not in either camp and feeling
left out of the fun, head to Geraldine’s, a buzzing new restaurant and bar that’s like a vacation in your own backyard. This stylish adult playground offers delicious dining, cocktails with city views, nightly live music and poolside entertainment — all under one roof. Located in the chic new Hotel Van Zandt on Rainey Street … wait, did I just lose you? Fear not, Geraldine’s literally rises above the Rainey Street chaos with its discreet fourth floor location that hovers above the pulsing scene instead of wallowing in it. Better yet, there’s valet parking. But don’t let Geraldine’s sizzle and sex appeal fool you: this place is legit. With Austin’s slew of new restaurants that value style over substance (you know who you are), Geraldine’s resoundingly delivers on both. Texasnative and Executive Chef Stephen Bonin honed his chops at Austin standouts like Odd Duck, Epicerie and The Driskill, and now delights Geraldine’s diners with a menu chock-full of tasty dishes. We started with crunchy Cornmeal Fried Oyster Mushrooms, a sophisticated riff on the standard pub fare. Next came a lovely salad composed of beets — roasted and pickled — atop creamy deviled egg mousse and scattered with crispy rye crumbles. Smoked carrots got star treatment with a toothsome mole and puffed amaranth. Crispy pork ribs were worth the mess, lacquered with a sweet-and-spicy Asian glaze. Silky Wagyu steak was
88 MARCH 2017 |
Stunning surroundings play host to outstanding dishes as well as imaginative craft cocktails.