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M AY 2012 | n o . 13 0

Cuisine is suE

M MAY AY 22001122


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Contents

m ay

2 01 2

60

T R IBE Z A

52

80

features 46 Incarnations of Fried Chicken 52 Foodie Style Crushes 60 A Woman's Touch 66 Paul Qui 72 Old School Meets New School 74 Growing Pains 80 The BBQ Kings

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on th e cov er : Pau l Qu i Photogr aPhy by r andal Ford

d e pa rtm e nt s Communit y

behind the Scenes

86

Social hour

18

austin look book

88

Kristin armstrong

29

Product Pick

90

exposed: Joaquin avellan

32

Street Fashion

92

Perspective: Shawn cirkiel

34

My life

94

Arts

Dining

arts & entertainment calendar

36

dining Pick

98

artist Spotlight

42

dining guide

100

our little Secret

108

style

things We love

44

clocKWiSe FroM toP leFt: elizabeth Street Photo by cody haMilton; Fried chicKen Photo by Jody horton; Sonya cotÉ Photo by Kenny braun; eaSy tiger Photo by bill SallanS; MilK carton illuStration by geMMa correll.

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11

Editor’s Letter

Publisher PubLISheR

george T. George t. Elliman elliman eDIToR + eDitor cReaTIve CreAtive DIRecToR DireCtor

lauren Smith Ford Lauren eDitoriAl eDIToRIaL AssistAnt aSSISTanT

lisa Siva Lisa

evenTS + events mArketing MaRkeTIng CoorDinAtor cooRDInaToR

Staley Hawkins hawkins

SenIoR senior ACCount accounT exeCutives execuTIveS

Ashley Beall ashley beall andrea Brunner Andrea brunner Kimberly Chassay chassay PrinCiPAls PRIncIPaLS

George T. george t. Elliman elliman Chuck chuck Sack Vance vance Sack Michael Torres torres interns InTeRnS

Katie Brown brown Maureen McHugh Mchugh Pear Phongsawad andie Salazar Andie veronica Serrato Veronica clare Szabo Clare Issue Design by Robin FInlay

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Anniversary

yeA ar

W h e n iI t ThoughT ta A bo u T t

bringing together the “BBQ Kings of Central Texas” for a roundtable discussion about all things meat, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Would there be awkward silences or heated discussions of who had truly mastered the best brisket there ever was? But despite my fears, we had to take our chances because the possibility of the conversation we could eavesdrop on was just too good. So we gathered Aaron Franklin of Franklin Barbecue, John Mueller of J. Mueller BBQ, Shane Stiles of Stiles Switch BBQ & Brew and Scott Roberts of The Salt Lick. All we did was enlist journalist Alex Hannaford to chime in with questions here and there and supply the beer on a sunny spring day Ii had to get a photo with these bbQ BBQ celebs — pictured around a picnic table at Bar 96. Our trusty videographer, Kyle Osburn, left to right Scott Roberts, roberts, John Mueller, Shane Stiles and Aaron aaron Franklin. was there (visit tribeza.com to see the video recap), and photographer Jay B. Sauceda thoughtfully captured the fascinating and fun conversation that ensued. Pull up your own seat to the picnic table on page 46 to hear all about what we overheard.

There are so many exciting things happening in the Austin food world right now that narrowing it down for this issue was a daunting task, but putting Top Chef winner/Uchiko chef and the ever loveable and humble Paul Qui on the cover was an easy choice. TRIBEZA editorial assistant and our official on-staff foodie, Lisa Siva, who contributed many thoughtful ideas and articles to this issue, sat down with him right after his big win. It was also her clever idea to invite a few of our other favorite chefs to show us their approach to making fried chicken…and yes, those are testicles used in Chef Bryce Gilmore of Barley Swine’s take on the dish. Tyson Cole of Uchi, James Holmes of Lucy’s Fried Chicken and Olivia as well as Todd Duplechan of Lenoir each surprised us with their versions of a classic. At TRIBEZA, our plans for Style Week 2012 are already under way. We are so thrilled that the Dachis Group will once again present TRIBEZA Style Week, which will be held in from September. September We20-27, hope you so save enjoy our the dates. curated We collection hope youofenjoy stories ouron curated the Austin collection food scene of stories and on that the you Austin feel inspired food scene to enjoy and that them you all.feel Bon inspired appétit! to enjoy them all. Bon appétit!

Lauren Smith Ford lauren@tribeza.com


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a u S t i n a r t S + c u lt u r e

Columnist

Kristin armstrong illustrAtors

gemma correll Joy gallagher Writers

Megan giller alex hannaford layne lynch Karen o. Spezia S. Kirk Walsh

PhotogrAPhers

Kenny braun Michael thad carter randal Ford cody hamilton Jody horton Paige newton John Pesina Matt rainwaters annie ray bill Sallans Jay b Sauceda adam voorhes

1708 S. CONGRESS AVENUE 512.912.7970 COSTARSTYLE.COM

Mailing addreSS 706a west 34th street austin, texas 78705 ph (512) 474 4711 fax (512) 474 4715 www.tribeza.com Founded in March 2001, TRIBEZA is austin's leading locally owned arts and culture magazine.

copyright @ 2012 by TRIBEZA. all rights reserved. reproduction, in whole or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher, is prohibited. TRIBEZA is a proud member of the austin chamber of commerce.


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Social Hour

3

4

A selection of party pics from happenings in every corner of the city. 2 1

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Ben Kweller and Charlie mars Concert

spaceCraft Launch party

Music aficionados celebrated SXSW with memorable performances by Ben Kweller and Charlie Mars at the McMahons’ residence in Westlake hills. guests enjoyed cocktails by deep eddy vodka, wine from cameron hughes Wine and light tapas by chef andrew Stiver of culinary innovations. the evening benefited rock ‘n roll cancer charity Love Hope Strength and was hosted by Posh Properties.

investors, friends and customers alike celebrated the launch of SpaceCraft's new web publishing platform in the midst of SXSW madness at hangar lounge. attendees snacked on bites by downtown restaurant ranch 616 and enjoyed beats by dJ Mel. Spacecraft is dedicated to helping small businesses create effective, elegant web content.

ben kweller: 1. Brandon Cason, Christina Shipley & Clayton Christopher 2. Juston Street & Melanie Freeman 3. Alison Arnold & James Chippendale 4. Carina Humphrey & Koshla Johansson spaceCraft: 5. Kelly Maroney, London Price & Natalie Holloway 6. Chad & Jennifer Currie 7. Adam Moore & Camille Styles 8. Cory ryan & Tom Hudson 9. Vanessa Pruig-Williams & Jeff Williams

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P h oto g r a P h y by J o h n P e S i n a


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social hour

Austin

2

3

1

4

torch of Liberty

The Austin Council of the AntiDefamation League recognized the Suzanne and Marc Winkelman Family and Whole Foods’ commitment to diversity, equality and justice at its biennial torch of liberty award dinner at the Four Seasons. among the guests that evening were austin’s most celebrated philanthropists, including nobel laureate Elie Wiesel.

6 5

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LifeWorks Benefit

Platinum Realty hosted a benefit for LifeWorks at their corporate offices. J&M Jewelry showcased an array of diamonds while rolls royce of austin was on site with some new vehicles. guests enjoyed bites from Kenichi, garrido’s and dulcette as well as complimentary cocktails by 360 vodka.

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torch of liberty: 1. Lauren Johnson, Doug Manchester & Michele Haussmann 2. Michele Valles, ray Benson & Charlotte Herzele 3. Larry Jefferson & Barbie Schaffer 4. Ben Kogut & André Suissa 5. Chad & Jennifer Marsh 6. Mimi Spier, Allison Chase & Shante Ferdman 7. Andrea Villarreal & David Messier 8. Sarah Meredith, David Wells & Lauren Becker lifeWorks benefit: 9. Kate Kramer & Dusty Buell 10. elice & Derrek Klepac 11. Marc & Jennifer Cortez.

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P h oto g r a P h y by J o h n P e S i n a


social hour

Austin

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3

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2

Quest for the summit

dachis Group at the W

Explore Austin, one of the city’s premier mentoring organizations, hosted its annual Quest for the Summit event at award-winning Contigo, where guests enjoyed cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and live music under the stars. the evening benefitted explore austin’s programs, inspiring young students to experience the outdoors and develop confidence in their leadership skills.

Dachis Group kicked off SXSW with a reception at the W austin, followed by an evening of drinks, art by aKairways and music by Johnny bravo and toddy b. dg at the W celebrated dachis group’s annual Social business Summit, uniting industry experts to discuss innovations in social business intelligence.

Quest for the summit: 1. Hillary Kunz & elle Spinks 2. Claire Nelson & Paul Taylor 3. Catherine Granger & Catherine Parks 4. Andrew Wiseheart & Ben edgerton 5. Ann Jerome & Mary Clare Mathews Dachis group at the W: 6. Lauren & Averi Garcia 7. Johnny Lee rodgers & Guest 8. Stormtrooper & romina Palacios 9. Jenny Murphy & Beth Harwood 10. Patrick O'Brien, Jill & Jeff Dachis 11. Christina Clark, Michala Monroe & Austen Trimble.

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P h oto g r a P h y by J o h n P e S i n a


Collage Studio

DESIGN PORTRAIT.

For Viola every story always begins with Tufty-Time. Tufty-Time is designed by Patricia Urquiola. www.bebitalia.com

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social hour AuA st social hour U iSnT I N

Five x seven sOCIaL Five x Seven SOCIAL

1 1 2 2

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IN CO M

AMOA-Arthouse’s annual FiveFive x x AMOA-Arthouse’s annual Seven event, celebrating the unique Seven event, celebrating the unique workwork of established and and emerging of established emerging artists in 5x7 format, culminated in a in a artists in 5x7 format, culminated livelylively evening at the Jones center, evening at The Jones Center, presented by Jones Villalta. presented by Jones Villalta. guests mingled withwith featured FiveFive Guests mingled featured x Seven artists and and enjoyed drinks, x Seven artists enjoyed drinks, tastytasty bitesbites and and the sounds of dJ the sounds of DJ Petyonius. Petyonius.

5 5

PL EA T

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Cocktails forfor a Cause Cocktails a Cause

theThe Relief Nursery of Central Relief Nursery of Central Texas hosted a fabulous ladies’ nightnight Texas hosted a fabulous ladies’ out out on Michelle Wittenburg’s on Michelle Wittenburg’s rooftop, overlooking downtown rooftop, overlooking downtown austin. Stylish austinites enjoyed Austin. Stylish Austinites enjoyed delicious wine,wine, cheese and and chocolate, delicious cheese chocolate, joining rnct in observing child joining RNCT in observing Child abuse Prevention Month and and Abuse Prevention Month supporting the organization’s efforts supporting the organization’s efforts to combat childchild abuse and and neglect by by to combat abuse neglect strengthening vulnerable families. strengthening vulnerable families.

Bandana Ball Bandana Ball

3 3

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99 1010

Supporters of the Supporters of Ronald the Ronald McDonald House gathered at at McDonald House gathered WildWild onion ranch for their signature Onion Ranch for their signature event, the Bandana Ball, which event, the Bandana Ball, which raises overover $400,000 for families withwith raises $400,000 for families critically ill, hospitalized children in in critically ill, hospitalized children central texas. Central Texas.

FiveFive x seven: x Seven: 1. Donald 1. Donald Gallaspy Gallaspy & Alexander & Alexander rivard Rivard 2. Allie 2. Allie & Dave & Dave AlterAlter 3. Honora 3. Honora Jacob Jacob & Sharon & Sharon Miller Miller 4. Mark 4. Mark Hannah Hannah & rachel & Rachel Adams Adams 5. Jaimey 5. Jaimey Sloan, Sloan, Liz Kweller Liz Kweller & Nora & Nora Burke Burke 6. Brooke 6. Brooke Powell Powell & Jillian & Jillian Keller Keller 7. Wren 7. Wren & Claire & Claire Nokes Nokes 8. Trevor 8. Trevor McCurry McCurry & Meg & Meg Floryan Floryan Cocktails Cocktails for afor Cause: a Cause: 9. Swapna 9. Swapna reddy, Reddy, StacyStacy Warner Warner & Marissa & Marissa Marquez Marquez bandana Bandana ball:Ball: 10. Lateff 10. Lateff Johnson Johnson & Jennifer & Jennifer Wexler Wexler

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P h oto P H OTO g r aG PR hA y Pby H Y501(c)a BY 501(C)A n d i dS N D& I DS J o&hJnOPHeNS iPnEaS I N A


If you come to Fredericksburg anticipating authentic German cuisine, we will not disappoint. But further exploration will reveal restaurateurs that offer decidedly more diverse menus. Escolar and lobster. Seared duck breast with ginger/orange glaze. Tender steaks. And

Culinary “Zauber” that goes far beyond Bier und Brats.

very naughty desserts. All complemented by award-winning cabs, zins, chards, rieslings and merlots from our numerous vineyards and wineries. Incidentally, “Zauber” is the German word for “magic”. Guten Appetit.

V i s i t F re d e r i c k s b u r g T X . c o m

T E X T

“ F R E D ”

T O

|

8 6 6

9 9 7

3 6 0 0

4 5 3 8 4

Cabernet Grill Hwy 16, 2.8 miles south of Main St.

Lillie Marlene B&B Three blocks off Main Street

Fredericksburg Food & Wine Fest Saturday, October 27

At this Fredericksburg restaurant, ridiculously great Hill Country cuisine meets barrels of Texas wine. It’s delicious. It’s casual. It’s a must-do for every Fredericksburg, Texas visitor.

The perfect place to explore the Texas Hill Country. Lillie Marlene is filled with warm memories of family, good times, and German and Czech tradition.

Celebrate Texas Wine, Food, Friends & Fun! Featuring Chefs, 25 Texas wineries, over 40 Texas specialty booths, lively entertainment and an auction …Taste Texas at its finest!

www.cabernetgrill.com 830 990 5734

www.lilliemarlene.com 830 997 8566

www.fbgfoodandwinefest.com 830 997 8515


25

YE A RS

C E L E B R AT I N G

M O T O R I Z A T I O N

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A U T O M A T I O N

S P E C I A L I S T S

OF SERVING

CENTRAL

TEXAS

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community

Column

Chopped By K r I s tI n a r m s trO n G

I am nOt sure what the allure is these days with all the television shows where people get “cut.” I have flashbacks to sorority rush, but that’s just me. Whether it’s cooking, singing, tattoo inking, cupcake making or overly made-up young girls dancing, apparently America is tuning in to watch people get compared, criticized and cut.

My kids happen to love a cooking show called Chopped. On this show, chefs compete by getting a basket of random ingredients and a time limit of thirty minutes to impress a panel of judges with their culinary prowess. My children watch intently as these chefs sweat, fret and create their masterpieces…or their flops.

i l lu S t r at i o n by J oy g a l l ag h er Fo r a limite d- e dit i o n p r int , c onta c t jo ygall agh e r@g m ail .c om .

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community

Column

America is tuning in to watch people get compared, criticized and cut.

The judges sample each meal and discuss as my children have their own debate, and finally the contestants are called back. Under the silver domed cover is one dish — yep, you guessed it — on the chopping block. You’re done, pal. Go home and make some mac and cheese. Valentine’s Day was approaching and we were trying to figure out how to celebrate. Usually I take my darlings out to a nice dinner or cook a fancy feast at home. This year the tables were turned. They wanted to cook, as chefs on a Special Armstrong Valentine Edition of Chopped. While they were at school and after school sports, I prepared the “studio.” The girls had aprons, and Luke had an old white work shirt from my Dad, big enough to look kind of like a chef ’s jacket. I prepared the three bags of ingredients, each containing two thawed chicken breasts, 1 mango, 1 potato, 1 head of cauliflower, green onions and some spinach. The kids rushed in as they filtered home from activities, washed their hands, donned their garments, and we were ON. My parents and I comprised the expert panel of judges. We had to sit in a row at the kitchen table, facing the action. We were instructed not to speak, just like the judges on the show — at least we had wine. The kids were adamant that we had to do it right, we had to chop someone, no using the old standard, “Everyone’s was sooo good — it’s a tie!” They promised no tears. We set the timer, giving them 45 minutes for their newbie status, and they started pulling things out of their bags. “Salmon! Ew!” Grace shrieked as she pulled out the chicken breasts. “What is this?” Isabelle mused about the green onions. Luke had a look of intense purpose on his face, and he quickly got to work slicing and dicing and heating olive oil in a pan. We judges looked on, not allowed to assist or instruct, stifling our comments and occasionally our laughter. The kitchen began to look as if a hurricane had blown through. I drank more wine. The chefs were in a flurry of stress and excitement as the timer counted down. Grace put a full potato in the oven at 200 degrees. Isabelle, upon slicing her browned (but raw) chicken, screamed and nuked it to oblivion in the microwave as a last ditch effort to save us all from

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Salmonella. One minute to go and they frantically plated their dishes. Then at the sound of the beep, all hands went up. One at a time, each chef delivered his or her entrees, plated into three servings for the judges, as they explained their creations, knowing they were being judged on flavor, creativity and aesthetics. They were so damn cute my face hurt from smiling. Isabelle used her mango in combination with her spinach in flowery individual salad bites and made a white carb stir fry with her potato and cauliflower. Her chicken was well done, literally. Grace had savory chicken, seasoned with salt and pepper, and made a smoothie with her mango. Luke made a finely chopped stir fry with the spinach, green onion, cauliflower and potato that was good enough to be a side at any of the restaurants I frequent. His signature vodka mango cocktail was not for the weak. I politely slammed mine. Only later did I think to worry that he is twelve and knows how to bartend. The chefs went upstairs while we sampled and deliberated. We hated to chop, but we had promised to be ruthless. The deciding factor was Grace’s raw potato square, so we put her dish on the chopping block and asked the chefs to return. Grace, upon seeing her dish on the block, burst into tears and ran upstairs. The remaining two chefs got their second bag of ingredients and entered the dessert competition. Luke ultimately prevailed as top chef — with a homemade raspberry frosting with shaved chocolate on top of fluffy white cake. It was divine, truly. His ease and confidence in the kitchen is unreal. Isabelle handled her chopping block with professionalism and poise, shaking each judge’s hand, saying, “Thank you for the opportunity to compete.” Grace eventually rejoined the group (in time for dessert…she is no fool) with her dignity and good humor restored, stating that even the chopped chefs on the show cry sometimes. She vowed that victory would soon be hers. It took a very long time to clean the kitchen — and even longer to stop smiling.


community

ProFile

exPoseD

Joaquin Avellan oWner, doS lunaS cheeSe

J

oaquin Avellan isn’t joking when he says you won’t find a cheese like his anywhere else. Begun with a traditional recipe from his father — also a cheese maker in Avellan’s home country of Venezuela — Dos Lunas Cheese has opened up the world of raw cheese to Austinites. However, it’s Avellan’s signature twist on the classic queso fresco that has chefs like Jack Gilmore and Rene Ortiz clamoring for Dos Lunas: aged for at least two months, each cheese develops a subtle, complex flavor, whether the clean, earthy taste of the Classico or the smokiness of the Black Pepper Cheddar. “These are cheeses from my home country,” Avellan notes, “from the foothill of the Andes.” Though a longtime veteran of the film industry, Avellan spent two and half months in Venezuela, overseeing his father’s dairy, milking cows and calibrating cheeses — and found the allure of cheese making irresistible. Upon returning to Austin, “I would wake up in the morning, thinking, ‘The cows!’” he laughs. “I needed to find out how to make this cheese and where I was going to get the milk.” Avellan at last discovered Stryk Jersey Farm, a rare source of raw, 100% grass-fed milk, and began a small operation with 10 to 15 gallons out of his fiancée’s kitchen. Today, Avellan gestures to the shelves of his aging room, which hold about 3000 pounds of Dos Lunas Cheese. “This,” he says, “tastes like Venezuela.” L. sIva

13 Questions For JoaQuin

What’s your idea of a perfect meal? a meal where everyone dives in and everyone’s hands — and hearts — are in it. What is your favorite dish to prepare?  a “kitchen sink” invention where i use everything on hand and can never make quite that same thing again. If you weren’t in your current career, what else would you try?  raising horses — i identify profoundly with them. i feel very happy and peaceful around them. What is one talent you wish you had?  to be able to follow instructions from a manual.

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What would you eat for your last meal?  Freshly caught fried caribbean snapper. What is your favorite culinary memory?  Me, my six siblings and on average 17 cousins diving into my grandmother’s giant stash of venezuelan chocolate every Sunday. What smell makes you nostalgic?  Fresh mango — when i was eight, i used to pick it right from the tree while riding my horse. Who has been the biggest influence on your life? My brothers and sisters; because of their various qualities, they bring balance to my life. What has been the most memorable night of your life? My first 100-mile horse race in gonzalez, texas. over 23 hours on a horse — it carried me all night.

What was your favorite article of clothing when you were a child? a plaid cowboy shirt because i dreamed of being a cowboy. What is one thing people don’t generally know about you? i love dancing. When and where are you happiest?  i was the happiest in 1972, when i lived on a farm in venezuela. today, i am the happiest when i wake up in the middle of the night embraced by my fiancée. Who are your fantasy dinner party guests? gandhi, lao tzu, e. e. cummings, george carlin, my bride and our five daughters — it would be an insightful evening of filled with wisdom, knowledge, joy and laughter, surrounded by love. P h oto g r a P h y by Jay b S au c eda


Sometimes you need a time-out too.

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community

PersPeCtive

I n h I s OW n WOr ds

Shawn Cirkiel CHeF & OWNer, THe BACKSPACe, OLIVe & JuNe AND PArKSIDe

I

grew up in a no-man’s land: 30 years ago, most locals wouldn’t have even considered the old farm near Barr Mansion part of Austin. It was the early 80’s and Austin was a different scene. We would come “into town” on weekends and order tacos at Tamale House, visit the original Whole Foods and eat vegetarian chili at Martin Brothers. That wonderful stretch along Airport Boulevard, which many now consider Central Austin, was countryside and my second home. My grandma had her table at the old Bennigan’s, where she drank Irish coffees after work, and my grandpa, always dressed in a freshly pressed suit, was a regular at the Broken Spoke. I learned early on the importance of understanding where and how we got our food. We raised cows and chickens and lived off the milk and eggs. We even churned our own butter. At three years old, I was eating raw onions and garlic from the fields. We were vegetarians, and even by Austin standards, I was a big hippie. My Austin upbringing has been an undeniable influence on my career that translates into everything I do. My family has a history of owning local businesses going back to the 40’s. My great-grandpa was a baker, my grandpa owned a garage on Airport and my parents had a vegetarian restaurant. My mom was even an original member of Wheatsville Co-op. As I moved beyond those early years, I took restaurant jobs wherever I could: Mexican joints, Austin’s Pizza, Hyde Park Bar & Grill, Martin Brothers. I worked in every position, at all levels and began cooking and eating everything, leaving my vegetarian ways behind. A guiding principle that has been woven into my core from the beginning is the idea of treating food with respect, no matter

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what it may be. I’ve taken that with me everywhere I’ve worked. It takes a lot of sweat to grow and nurture vegetables, harvest crops and raise animals — each a labor of love. No matter what the food is, we are creating meals that feed our families and bring people together. At parkside, our french fries get the same respect we give our truffles. After attending the CIA, I spent several years on the move — New York, California, Arizona — cooking in 5 Diamond restaurants, opening hotels, managing kitchens and working long hours all along the way. When I came back to Austin, I kept up the young chef’s pace, cooking all day at restaurants and staying out all night. There was no time for laundry — I’d sit in the kitchen in my underwear every morning, sipping my espresso, while my chef coat ran through the dishwasher. I helped open a few more restaurants and hotels in Austin and even put in a year at Uchi. I later landed at Jean-Luc’s, where for three years, our small but resilient team did everything. We all pitched in — managing, washing dishes, placing orders, writing and re-writing the menu and running the kitchen. I didn’t take a day off that first year. We were all working like beasts, and for us, it was a time of reverence. We worked, drank, worked, drank; we were all entering our 30’s and didn’t know how to operate any differently. That was also when Austin was expanding from the downhome town I grew up in to a much bigger city. At the risk of sounding like my parents, so much had changed: food in this city was maturing, the city limits were expanding and people were flocking to Austin. Whole Foods had transformed from a little shop to a multi-national complex — everything was growing. When I discovered the parkside space, I knew I had to have it. Sixth Street is unique and amazing; there are dozens of hotels within a six-block radius, 50,000

people wandering about every weekend, and the Victorian architecture is the best you’ll find west of the Mississippi. I love our building. It’s our corner of the universe, and I knew we could grow with the area. We started with used equipment and barely enough plateware. We got steamrolled by SXSW our first week; we didn’t sleep and worked a brutal 72 hours straight upon opening. We held on somehow and became a tight-knit family. We still are. A few years later, I wanted to do something with the little art gallery behind parkside: a Neapolitanstyle pizza joint. That’s the style of pizza I like to eat and nobody in Austin was offering it. So, we opened the backspace, which is completely different from parkside and attracts a totally separate crowd, which I love. The backspace was open for nine months, and parkside had an unbelievable year. That’s when I got lucky with finding the new space for Olive & June. The building is beautiful and the location is perfect. It provided another opportunity to cook what my staff and I like to eat, much of which we cook for ourselves at our daily family (staff) meals: Southern Italian fried dishes, pasta without the fat, beans and potatoes. It’s about creating delicious food and sharing it with those you love. Mine is kind of a classic Austin story. I started out as this vegetarian farm kid who became immersed in the food world, working at restaurants that are the foundation for the Austin food scene. I left for culinary school and enjoyed travelling, but my roots had been dug deep, and Austin drew me back. I considered myself a part of that Austin food scene with parkside. I started with an idea that became a restaurant on Sixth Street, and our team has grown it into a business with three restaurants that I love. This is still my home, and I can’t imagine it any other way. P h oto g r a P h y by M at t r a i n Wat er S


Though renowned for his Italian cuisine, Chef Shawn Cirkiel is an Austinite at heart.

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MAy CALeNDArS arts & entertainment

Entertainment Calendar Music ingriD miChAelson

May 1, 7pm Stubb’s

Ziggy mArley

May 2, 8pm acl live at the Moody theater sounDs oF summer

May 2, 7:30pm bates recital hall

PunCh brothers

May 2, 8pm antone’s

roger WAters

May 3, 8pm Frank erwin center DeAth CAb For Cutie

May 4, 8pm acl live at the Moody theater Austin symPhony orChestrA With ConsPirAre

May 4-5, 8pm the long center

tom Petty & the heArtbreAkers With reginA sPektor

May 5, 7:30pm Frank erwin center

esPerAnZA sPAlDing

May 5, 8pm Paramount theatre

JAne’s ADDiCtion

May 12, 8:30pm bass concert hall

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Austin mAnDolin orChestrA sPring ConCert

May 12, 7pm casa de luz

PAChAngA lAtino musiC FestivAl

May 11-12 Fiesta gardens

mArtinA mCbriDe

May 17, 8pm acl live at the Moody theater

snoW PAtrol

May 17, 7pm Stubb’s

Flogging molly

May 18, 8pm acl live at the Moody theater rusko

May 25, 9pm austin Music hall

Theater the lArAmie ProJeCt

through May 12 zach theatre

the mAn Who PlAnteD trees

May 4-5 Paramount theatre CurtAin uP!

May 10-11, 7:30pm the university of texas PAttern nAtion: WAves

May 10-15 the long center

Dr. horrible’s singAlong blog

May 17, 7pm Mccallum Fine arts academy les miserAbles

May 29-June 3 bass concert hall

Comedy “Funniest Person in Austin” Contest

May 1, 8pm cap city comedy club ChinAmAn

May 2-5 cap city comedy club kevin hArt

May 4, 7:30pm bass concert hall born yesterDAy

May 4-June 3 austin Playhouse

PAul vArghese

May 9-12 cap city comedy club Jon Dore & briAn gAAr

Film “living reCorD” musiC DoCumentAry night

May 2, 7-9pm Jo’s coffee house downtown Amie siegel’s “blACk moon” sCreening

May 5-July 22 aMoa-arthouse

mADe in texAs Film series: toy solDiers

May 9, 7:30pm the bob bullock texas State history Museum movies in the PArk: PrinCess mononoke

May 10, 8:15pm republic Square

Children PeCAn street FestivAl Petting Zoo PlAy DAte

May 3, 10-11am bookPeople

Chuy’s 29th hot to trot 5k & kiD k

May 16-19 cap city comedy club

May 5, 7:45-10am chuy’s arbor trails

Josh blue & kerri lenDo

violet CroWn FestivAl

May 24-26 cap city comedy club

May 5, 11am-6pm brentwood Park

Colin kAne

young AmbAssADors' Club

May 30-June 2 cap city comedy club

May 3, 9:30-10:30am French legation Museum

Other CoCktAils For A CAuse

May 3, 6-8pm Six lounge

mAke-A-Wish over the eDge

May 5, 9am-5pm one american center hAnDmADe Austin Women sPring shoW & sAle

May 5-6 Private residence

PeCAn street FestivAl

May 5-6 6th Street

bAllet Austin’s romeo & Juliet

May 11-13 the long center

Congress Avenue mile

May 19, 8am State capitol

Art brA Austin

May 19, 7pm austin Music hall

Fight For Air Climb

May 19, 7:30am-1pm Frost bank tower

Austin yogA exPo

May 19, 11am-7:30pm Palmer events center hooPs For hoPe

May 20, 12-3:30pm the long center


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arts & entertainment

CAlenDArs

Arts Calendar Kat Mccool reception, 6-8pm MAY 4 gAllery blACk lAgoon

Serious Whimsy reception: 7-10pm through May 20

russell ColleCtion Fine Art

Spanish Masters reception: 6-9pm through May 31

MAY 5 mexiC-Arte museum

arturo garica bustos: Fractured Memories, assembled trauma WAlly WorkmAn gAllery

america Martin: Solo Show reception: 6-8pm through May 26 yArD Dog

camp bosworth through June 10

ONGOING AmoA-Arthouse lAgunA gloriA

art on the green through May 20

blAnton museum oF Art

american Scenery: different views in hudson river School Painting through May 13 go West! representations of the american Frontier through September 23 the bob bulloCk texAs stAte history museum

texas Music roadtrip through oct 14

DrAgonFly gAllery At roseDAle

reflections in Fiberart through May 25

grAyDuCk gAllery

Memento Mori through May 6

hArry rAnsom Center

MAY 6 mexiC-Arte museum

the King James bible: its history and influence through Jul 29

MAY 11 ut visuAl Arts Center

lorA reynolDs gAllery

gala del Museo arte y glamour

Sound + vision: dooM 8-10pm MAY 26 reD sPACe gAllery

lauren Klotzman through June 10

this is it With it as it is through June 16 okAy mountAin

leif low-beer through May 19

reD sPACe gAllery

Jennie gray through May 13

ut visuAl Arts Center

MFa Studio art exhibition reception: 6-8pm through May 12

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event PiCk

Renegade Craft Fair may 19 & 20, 11am - 7pm palmer events Center renegadecraft.com

t

he word “crafts” may evoke images of glue sticks and knitting needles, but the Renegade Craft Fair on May 19 and 20 channels anything but school projects or grandma’s new knitwear. In fact, as befits its name, the fair celebrates the independent, do-it-yourself spirit of its carefully juried artists and vendors. Entering its third year in Austin, the fair has showcased its one-of-a-kind wares around the nation and across the Atlantic, from Brooklyn to London. Whether you’re looking for clothing or accessories, collectibles or curios, the Renegade Craft Fair offers an innovative perspective on handcrafted goods. This marketplace of creativity has its roots in Chicago as a showcase for non-mainstream artisans creating goods that fall between traditional home crafts and fine arts. “We wanted to support local people who aren’t painters and sculptors and things like that,” Sarah Spies, Director of Vendor and Media Relations for the event, explains. “Our fairs are full of people who make more functional items that also happen to be beautiful. There’s a combination of art plus craft.” When looking to expand, Spies says that the team behind the Renegade Craft Fair saw Austin as a perfect choice due to its supportive culture, creative community, Southern geography and simply “cool” vibe. The event fits well into the landscape of the city, as it aims to further spread a love of handmade crafts to attendees while inspiring creativity. This year’s fair at the Palmer Events Center also features workshops, music, food and more, promising to be bigger than ever. a. saLazar

PhotograPh courteSy oF renegade craFt Fair.

MAY 3 Art on 5th


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museums & gAlleries

ArT SPACeS Museums

Artist sPotlight

Austin ChilDren’s museum

201 colorado St. (512) 472 2499 hours: tu 10–5, W 10–8, th–Sa 10–5, Su 12–5 austinkids.org AmoA-Arthouse the Jones Center

700 congress ave. (512) 453 5312 hours: W 12-11, th-Sa 12-9, Su 12-5 arthousetexas.org AmoA-Arthouse lAgunA gloriA

3809 W. 35th St. (512) 458 8191 driscoll villa hours: tu–W 12-4, th-Su 10–4 grounds hours: M–Sa 9–5, Su 10–5 amoa.org

Beili Liu

F

or Beili Liu, an Associate Professor of Fine Arts at the University of Texas, it is the physicality of artwork that drives her to create: Liu thoughtfully considers space, material, memory and experience in her striking installation work, designed to deeply engage the viewer. “I put a lot of time and effort into the making of my work,” Liu remarks. “I believe all this effort is then embedded in work. It is my hope to have something genuine and sincere to share with my viewers.” Liu’s art lies at the intersection of often conflicting materials and influences, whether salt and water or East and West. One of her most recent installments, titled The Mending Project, features hundreds of Chinese scissors hanging from the ceiling and glinting ominously in the light, while the artist mends white squares of cloth. Held at Women and Their Work, the exhibit balances “all the harsh and fierce energy of the threat and uncertainty above” with the healing act of mending below. As viewers offer the artist pieces of cloth, they too become a part of Liu’s exploration of conflict. “I have a natural desire to make work that my viewer can travel through or be with,” Liu says. “As an installation artist, one can determine and navigate the viewer experience, and for me, that is really exciting.” For more information about Beili Liu's work visit beililiu.com. K. BrOWn

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blAnton museum oF Art

200 e. MlK Jr. blvd. (512) 471 7324 hours: tu– F 10–5, Sa 11–5, Su 1–5 blantonmuseum.org

the bob bulloCk texAs stAte history museum

1800 congress ave. (512) 936 8746 hours: M–Sa 9–6, Su 12–6 thestoryoftexas.com elisAbet ney museum

304 e. 44th St. (512) 458 2255 hours: W–Sa 10–5, Su 12–5 ci.austin.tx.us/elisabetney

FrenCh legAtion museum

802 San Marcos St. (512) 472 8180 hours: tu–Su 1–5 frenchlegationmuseum.org george WAshington CArver museum

1165 angelina St. (512) 974 4926 hours: M–th 10–9, F 10–5:30, Sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/carver hArry rAnsom Center

300 e. 21st St. (512) 471 8944 hours: tu–W 10–5, th 10–7, F 10–5, Sa–Su 12–5 hrc.utexas.edu lbJ librAry AnD museum

2313 red river St. (512) 721 0200 hours: M–Su 9–5 lbjlib.utexas.edu

mexiC–Arte museum

419 congress ave. (512) 480 9373 hours: M–th 10–6, F–Sa 10–5, Su 12–5 mexic–artemuseum.org o. henry museum

409 e. 5th St. (512) 472 1903 hours: W–Su 12–5

umlAuF sCulPture gArDen & museum

605 robert e. lee rd. (512) 445 5582 hours: W–F 10–4:30, Sa–Su 1–4:30 umlaufsculpture.org

Photo courteSy oF beili liu.

arts & entertainment


arts & entertainment

Galleries Art on 5th

1501 W. 5th St. (512) 481 1111 hours: M–Sa 10–6 arton5th.com the Art gAllery At John-WilliAm interiors

3010 W. anderson ln. (512) 451 5511 hours: M–Sa 10–6, Su 12–5 mannfinearts.com ArtWorks gAllery

1214 W. 6th St. (512) 472 1550 hours: M–Sa 10–5 artworksaustin.com

Austin Art gArAge

2200 S. lamar blvd., Ste. J (512) 351-5934 hours: tu–Sa 11–6, Su 12–5 austinartgarage.com Austin Art sPACe gAllery AnD stuDios

7739 north cross dr., Ste. Q (512) 771 2868 hours: F–Sa 11–6 austinartspace.com

Austin gAlleries

1219 W. 6th St. (512) 495 9363 hours: M 10–3, tu–Sa 10–5 or by appointment austingalleries.com b. hollymAn gAllery

1202-a W. 6th. St. (512) 825 6866 hours: tu-Sa 10-5 bhollymangallery.com birDhouse

1304 e. cesar chavez St. by appointment only birdhousegallery.com

ChAmPion

800 brazos St. (512) 354 1035 hours: tu–Sa 11–6 championcontemporary.com CreAtive reseArCh lAborAtory

lA PeñA

227 congress ave., #300 (512) 477 6007 hours: M–F 9–5, Sa–Su 9–3 lapena–austin.org lorA reynolDs gAllery

2832 e. MlK Jr. blvd. (512) 322 2099 hours: tu–Sa 12–5 uts.cc.utexas.edu/~crlab

360 nueces St., Ste. c (512) 215 4965 hours: tu–Sa 11–6 lorareynolds.com

DAvis gAllery

lotus gAllery

837 W. 12th St. (512) 477 4929 hours: M–F 10–6, Sa 10–4 davisgalleryaustin.com FlAtbeD Press

2830 e. MlK Jr. blvd. (512) 477 9328 hours: tu–Sa 10–6 flatbedpress.com gAllery blACk lAgoon

4301-a guadalupe St. (512) 371 8838 hours: W–F 3–7 galleryblacklagoon.com gAllery shoAl Creek

2905 San gabriel St., #101 (512) 454 6671 hours: tu–F 11–6, Sa 11–4 galleryshoalcreek.com grAyDuCk gAllery

608 W. Monroe dr. (512) 826 5334 hours: W–Sa 11–6, Su 12–5 grayduckgallery.com hAven gAllery & Fine giFts

1122 W. 6th St. (512) 477 2700 hours: M–Sa 11–6, Su 11–4 havengalleryaustin.com JeAn–mArC FrAy gAllery

1009 W. 6th St. (512) 457 0077 hours: M–Sa 10–6 jeanmarcfray.com

1009 W. 6th St., #101 (512) 474 1700 hours: Mo–Sa 10-6 lotusasianart.com lytle Pressley ContemPorAry

1214 W. 6th St. (512) 469 6010 hours: M-F 9-5 lytlepressley.com

mArAnDA PleAsAnt gAllery

2235 e. 6th St. (713) 922 8584 by appointment only bigmodernart.com mAss gAllery

916 Springdale rd. hours: W 7–9, Sa 12–5 massgallery.org the nAnCy Wilson sCAnlAn gAllery

6500 St. Stephen’s dr. (512) 327 1213 hours: W–F 9–5 sstx.org okAy mountAin gAllery

1619 e. cesar chavez St. by appointment only (512) 293 5177 okaymountain.com Positive imAges

1118 W. 6th St. hours: M–Sa 10–5, Su 11–4 (512) 472 1831

Pro–Jex gAllery

1710 S. lamar blvd., Ste. c (512) 472 7707 hours: M–F 10–6, Sa 12–4 reAl gAllery

1101 navasota, #3 M-th 2:30-5:30 (512) 775 0458 realgalleryaustin.com reD sPACe gAllery

1203 W. 49th St. by appointment only redspacegallery.com

russell ColleCtion Fine Art

1137 W. 6th St. (512) 478 4440 hours: tu–Sa 10–6 russell–collection.com soFA

301 e. 33rd St., #7 by appointment only sofagallerytx.com stePhen l. ClArk gAllery

1101 W. 6th St. (512) 477 0828 hours: tu–Sa 10–4 stephenlclarkgallery.com stuDio 10

1011 West lynn (512) 236 1333 hours: tu–Sa 11–5 studiotenarts.com stuDio 107

411 brazos St., #107 (512) 477 9092 hours: tu–Sa 1–6 studio107.com testsite

502 W. 33rd St. (512) 453 3199 hours: Su 2–5 fluentcollab.org

museums & gAlleries

WAlly WorkmAn gAllery

1202 W. 6th St. (512) 472 7428 hours: tu–Sa 10–5 wallyworkman.com

Women & their Work

1710 lavaca St. (512) 477 1064 hours: M–F 10–6, Sa 12–5 womenandtheirwork.org yArD Dog

1510 S. congress ave. (512) 912 1613 hours: M–F 11–5, Sa 11–6, Su 12–5 yarddog.com

Alternative Spaces ArtPost: the Center For CreAtive exPression

4704 e. cesar chavez St. artpostaustin.com Austin PresenCe

2785 bee cave rd., #336 (512) 306 9636 hours: tu–F 10–6, Sa 10–4 austinpresence.com

Domy books

913 e. cesar chavez St. (512) 476 doMy hours: tue–F 1–9, Sa 12–9, Su 12–7 domystore.com JuliA C. butriDge gAllery

1110 barton Springs rd. (512) 974 4025 hours: M–th 10–9:30, F 10–5:30, Sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/ dougherty/gallery.htm PumP ProJeCt Art ComPlex

702 Shady ln. (512) 351 8571 pumpproject.org

QuAttro gAllery

12971 Pond Springs rd. (512) 219 3150 hours: M–tu 10–3, W–Sa 11–4 quattrogallery.com roi JAmes

3620 bee cave rd., Ste. c (512) 970 3471 hours: by appointment only roijames.com sPACe 12

5305 bolm rd., #12 (512) 385 1670 bigmedium.org

3121 e. 12th St. (512) 524 7128 t-F 10-5 space12.org

ClArksville Pottery & gAlleries

uniteD stAtes Art Authority

Co-lAb ProJeCt sPACe

To have your gallery considered for listing in the Arts Guide, please send a request to events@tribeza.com.

big meDium

4001 n. lamar blvd., #200 (512) 454 9079 hours: M–Sa 10–6:30, Su 12–4 clarksvillepottery.com

613 allen St. (512) 300 8217 by appointment only colabspace.org

2906 Fruth St. (512) 476 4455 unitedstatesartauthority.com

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style

things w We love

44

Chef Gr ant CheF maCdOnaLd, trIo MaCdonald, trIO

fresa’s ChICKen Fresa’s ChICken aL C arbon al arBOn

Last winter, TRIO at The Four Seasons welcomed an extraordinary new Chef de Cuisine to its kitchens, Chef Grant Macdonald. A year spent in Norway as a young boy sparked Macdonald’s signature farm-to-table philosophy, and he has cultivated an appreciation for seasonal ingredients ever since. “I take inspiration from what we’re growing in our fields and what comes out of our oceans,” he says. “I try to pay respect to the original ingredients.” Though Macdonald initially studied chemistry at McGill University in Montreal, he found the culinary world irresistible and began working in some of Canada’s most renowned kitchens before moving to New York City as Chef de Cuisine at Bouley Upstairs. Well-versed in diverse cuisines, from French to Pan-Asian, Macdonald is thrilled to bring his global perspective to TRIO while celebrating the bounty that Texas has to offer. TRIO is located at 98 San Jacinto Blvd.

Whether Texas barbecue at Lamberts, Lamberts, seafood seafood at Perla’s at Perla’s or Vietnamor ese Vietnamese bánh mì bánh at Elizabeth mì at Elizabeth Street Café, Chef hasMcGuire a knack has StreetLarry Café,McGuire Chef Larry for satisfying all of Austin’s culinary a knack for satisfying all of Austin’s cravings. His latestHis venture, Carbon, diners todiners the colorful culinary cravings. latest Fresa’s venture,Chicken Fresa’s Al Chicken Al transports Carbon, transports to the streets Mexico its signature charcoal-grilled chicken,chicken, marinated in achiote freshcolorfulofstreets ofwith Mexico with its signature charcoal-grilled marinated inand achiote ly-squeezed citrus or oregano garlic.and A drive-through restaurant, Fresa's opened doors and freshly-squeezed citrus orand oregano garlic. A drive-through restaurant, Fresa'sitsopened — more its windows — last month, locally-grown and humanelyits or doors —appropriately, or more appropriately, its windows — lastserving month,up serving up locally-grown and raised chickens, inchickens, additionin toaddition tortas, salads, home-made ice creams ice andcreams a selection beer humanely-raised to tortas, salads, home-made and aofselecand and his business partner, formerly of Café Azul and tion wine. of beerChef andMcGuire wine. Chef McGuire and his team, Margaret comprisedVera, of Tommy Moorman, Tracy project for Elizabeth Street Café,to look forward to opening a second Fresa’s location Overathmanager and Margaret Vera, look forward opening a second Fresa’s location near Elizabeth near StreetAustinites Café, offering Austinites tasting tour of theever world without leaving StreetElizabeth Café, offering a tasting tour ofathe world without leaving theever capital city. the capital city. Fresa’s Chicken Al Carbon 915 N. Lamar Blvd. Fresa’s Chicken Al Carbon is located at 915isN.located LamaratBlvd. l. sIva L. sIva

May 2012 may

tribeza.com

CheFs feed Chefs Feed Have you ever wondered where chefs satisfy their culinary cravings? Chefs Feed takes the guesswork from dining out with a mobile, entirely chef-driven restaurant guide: the first of its kind, Chefs Feed allows foodies to explore Austin’s culinary scene — in addition to those of New York City, Los Angeles, San Francisco and more — through the eyes of its most renowned chefs. Enjoy dining advice from some of the city’s finest, including Barley Swine’s Bryce Gilmore, Franklin Barbecue’s Aaron Franklin and Easy Tiger’s Andrew Curren. Want to know where to find the best shrimp tacos? La Condesa’s Rene Ortiz can help you with that. Looking for a perfect steak dinner for two? Uchi’s Tyson Cole knows just the place. Rather than parsing through countless reviews online, Chefs Feed looks to the people who know food the best — the chefs whose cuisines we’ve come to love. Visit chefsfeed.com to download the application.

CloCkwise from left, Grant maCdonald photo by lara kastner, fresa’s ChiCken photo by rebeCCa fondren, Chefs feed photo Courtesy of Chefs feed.

Things We Love


The Kings on their throne ­— John Mueller, Shane Stiles, Scott Roberts and Aaron Franklin.


BBQ kings alex hannaford P HO T O GR A P H Y B Y

JAy b. sAuCeDA

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may May 2012

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Wardrobe courteSy allenS bootS.

don’t need to go try somebody else’s.” Now, he says, “It’s cool to try someone else’s barbecue.” Mueller still doesn’t think there’s a better barbecue cook than him, though, but then again, neither does Franklin or Scott, he says. “And Shane thinks he has the best cook in the world.” The story of how Mueller’s star fell and his subsequent surprise comeback goes something like this: he left the family business in 2001 to set up a barbecue joint on Manor Road which was quickly accepted by aficionados as the best in town: Crusty black peppery brisket complete with smoke rings; pork loin, pork ribs, prime rib, chicken and sausage, all served up on butcher paper. But five years down the line, after an acrimonious split from his wife, Mueller hit the whiskey, began struggling financially and he shut up shop, disappearing to Amarillo to manage a steakhouse. “I had offers all the time to come back, but until it was back in my heart I couldn’t do it again,” he says. “And then it came back. I was stupid enough to think I could return to Austin anonymously, sell some barbecue and make a living. I never knew it would turn into this again.” But before Mueller’s comeback late last year, Franklin set up a trailer off the I-35 service road, and he adopted Mueller’s mantle. Ironically, Franklin spent 18 months working at Mueller’s old place on Manor. He is a self-confessed ‘barbecue nerd’, and twice a year, he would fire up his smoker for his neighbors in the backyard of his home. “It got to the point where there was a line forming down the street, and we needed permits for parking,” he recalls. “The whole neighborhood was packed full of cars, and we’d have 150 people in our backyard. We had to start renting tables and taking donations to cover food costs.”

wardrobe courtesy of allens boots.

have zero competitive spirit,” says the young man in the Adidas sneakers and square-rimmed hipster glasses sitting at the picnic table. His three companions start laughing. It’s probably just as well he’s not competitive. In the not-too-distant past, the very thought of seeing four men, each the owner of a different Austin barbecue joint, drinking beer around the same table, would have been unheard of — not without some sort of fist fight or mudslinging contest, anyway. But so it came to pass that on a sunny afternoon in March, four of the city’s most important seasoned-meat smokers did just that. Mr. Adidas sneakers is one Aaron Franklin, whose Franklin barbecue joint on East 11th is wowing connoisseurs and proving that you don’t need history behind you get to the top of your game; opposite him is John Mueller whose South Austin trailer is one of the newest in town, but who is widely credited with putting Austin barbecue on the map over a decade ago when he left his grandfather, Louie Mueller’s, barbecue empire in Taylor; next to him is Shane Stiles, whose restaurant, Stiles Switch, boasts Lance Kirkpatrick as its pitmaster, a man who also learned the tools of his trade at Louie Mueller’s; and finally, there’s Scott Roberts, owner of that Driftwood institution, The Salt Lick. I expected there to be a punch-up, I tell them. “Nah, it’s all friendly stuff,” Franklin says, between sips of his beer. “You have mutual respect for somebody who puts that much passion into something and that many hours; you can’t hate on somebody for that. We’re all in this together.” But Mueller admits times have changed. In the old days, he says, he wouldn’t have been caught dead in Franklin’s joint. “And I’m damn sure we wouldn’t be sitting here having a beer together.” Interestingly, he credits the internet with altering the rules. Social media has meant everybody is out there, communicating, he says: cook to cook, meatlover to meat-lover. “And everybody’s friendly now.” There used to be an arrogance about the business, Mueller says. “My dad, Bobby, used to go to The Salt Lick all the time when he was a butcher but not when he took over Louie Mueller Barbecue. That was what was instilled in us. You have the best product that there is so you


the converSation turnS to the SecretS — FroM Saucing techniQueS to tyPeS oF Wood — behind the PerFect barbecue.

-sCOtt rOBerts, the saLt LICK tribeza.com

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THE KINGS OF

Shane Stiles

A native of Taylor, Shane Stiles opened Stiles Switch BBQ & Brew this year, capturing the nostalgia of Texas’ barbecue legends.

Aaron Franklin

What began as an annual, backyard tradition has grown into the much-celebrated Franklin Barbecue, touted by Bon Appétit as the “Best BBQ Restaurant in America.”

John Mueller

Carrying on a storied family name, Mueller returned to Austin last year, serving up classic barbecue from his trailer on South First.

Scott Roberts

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Enamored of barbecue since childhood, Roberts continues The Salt Lick’s Driftwood dynasty, swearing by the restaurant’s famous open pit.


Franklin bought a small trailer and set up shop behind a coffee roasting roasting company off of I-35. Customers were impressed as much company off of I-35. Customers were impressed as much with with his passion as his delicious smoked meats, and before long, he his passion as his delicious smoked meats, and before long, he had had to upgrade to a little restaurant closer to downtown. He gets to to upgrade to a little restaurant closer to downtown. He gets to work work at 3:30 in the morning to start getting his brisket and ribs ready at 3:30 in the morning to start getting his brisket and ribs ready before before opening at 10am. Two or three hours later and he’s usually opening at 10am. Two or three hours later and he’s usually out out of everything: the ‘sold out’ sign on the door has become both an of everything: the ‘sold out’ sign on the door has become both an Austin Austin staple and a source of extreme frustration for those still lining staple and a source of extreme frustration for those still lining up up outside. outside. Stiles Stiles says Mueller and his dad were the inspiration for opening up says Mueller and his dad were the inspiration for opening up his his own barbecue joint, Stiles Switch, in the historic Violet Crown own barbecue joint, Stiles Switch, in the historic Violet Crown Shopping Shopping Center on North Lamar. Stiles’s pitmaster, Lance KirkCenter on North Lamar. Stiles’s pitmaster, Lance Kirkpatrick, patrick, worked at Louie Mueller’s for a decade — “Just him, Bobby worked at Louie Mueller’s for a decade — “Just him, Bobby Mueller Mueller and a cash register,” Stiles says. “When he left he started and a cash register,” Stiles says. “When he left he started his his own restaurant in Taylor, but it didn’t work out. I called him the own restaurant in Taylor, but it didn’t work out. I called him the very very next day to ask if he was interested in joining me.” next day to ask if he was interested in joining me.” Roberts’s Roberts’s father started The Salt Lick back in the late 1960s. Legfather started The Salt Lick back in the late 1960s. Legend end has it Thurman Roberts took out a yellow legal pad and wrote has it Thurman Roberts took out a yellow legal pad and wrote down down 54 things the family could do and stay in Driftwood. Known 54 things the family could do and stay in Driftwood. Known for his delicious barbeque at family reunions, making it for paying for his delicious barbeque at family reunions, making it for paying customers was 14th on the list, but this is the idea that stuck. customers was 14th on the list, but this is the idea that stuck. the beer flows and the conversation turns to cooking, you’d As As the beer flows and the conversation turns to cooking, you’d wonder how there ever existed a time when barbecue cooks in Auswonder how there ever existed a time when barbecue cooks in Austin weren’t convivial. “Between all of us here, we’ll take on anyone tin weren’t convivial. “Between all of us here, we’ll take on anyone else from any city,” Roberts says. “Kansas City, Memphis. They can else from any city,” Roberts says. “Kansas City, Memphis. They can get as mad as they want to, but truth is nowhere else makes better get as mad as they want to, but truth is nowhere else makes better barbecue than us. They’re just not as good as we are.” barbecue than us. They’re just not as good as we are.” once considered a cheap meat, is not so cheap any more, Brisket, Brisket, once considered a cheap meat, is not so cheap any more, they say. Nevertheless, Mueller adds that, despite the rising cost of they say. Nevertheless, Mueller adds that, despite the rising cost of meat, local barbecue joint owners don’t charge a hefty premium for meat, local barbecue joint owners don’t charge a hefty premium for their legendary barbecue: “We’re all lucky enough that we have custheir legendary barbecue: “We’re all lucky enough that we have customers that will pay the price per pound that we charge. But there’s tomers that will pay the price per pound that we charge. But there’s not that profit margin that people think,” Mueller says. “ We’re not not that profit margin that people think,” Mueller says. “ We’re not making a ton of money.” making a ton of money.” about raising their own cattle? What What about raising their own cattle? laughs. “There are only two briskets on a cow.” Roberts Roberts laughs. “There are only two briskets on a cow.” gonna need to raise 50 cows a day,” Mueller says. “And “We’re “We’re gonna need to raise 50 cows a day,” Mueller says. “And we’re gonna pray these cows have pork ribs on ‘em too.” we’re gonna pray these cows have pork ribs on ‘em too.” When When the foursome start talking specifics — about slow-cooking, the foursome start talking specifics — about slow-cooking, about whether to sauce or not to sauce, about what wood to use — about whether to sauce or not to sauce, about what wood to use — Franklin’s face lights up. He loves talking barbecue. For the record, Franklin’s face lights up. He loves talking barbecue. For the record, they all use oak. “If you use mesquite, it needs to be burned down to they all use oak. “If you use mesquite, it needs to be burned down to coals, and there’s too much sugar in the wood,” Franklin says. “It’s coals, and there’s too much sugar in the wood,” Franklin says. “It’s real sooty and real hot and doesn’t taste very good.” real sooty and real hot and doesn’t taste very good.” “Mesquite’s “Mesquite’s good for grilling,” Roberts says, “but you got to let it good for grilling,” Roberts says, “but you got to let it

age until it’s so dry that if you touched a match to it, you’d set the age until it’s so dry that if you touched a match to it, you’d set the thing on fire.” thing on fire.” Franklin, Mueller and Stiles don’t sauce. Roberts does, although he Franklin, Mueller and Stiles don’t sauce. Roberts does, although he prefers the term “re-seasoning.” “We use it on the open pit because it prefers the term “re-seasoning.” “We use it on the open pit because it caramelizes,” he says. “So we just do it as a flavor thing.” caramelizes,” he says. “So we just do it as a flavor thing.” Mueller says he’s jealous of Roberts’s pit (which, if you haven’t seen, Mueller says he’s jealous of Roberts’s pit (which, if you haven’t seen, is a big open range in the middle of the Salt Lick’s open kitchen). “I is a big open range in the middle of the Salt Lick’s open kitchen). “I think it’s the most phenomenal thing,” he says. “This big old thing think it’s the most phenomenal thing,” he says. “This big old thing with meat everywhere.” with meat everywhere.” “The idea was handed down the generations to my father,” Roberts “The idea was handed down the generations to my father,” Roberts says. “Back in the 1870s, they’d build a fire with some rocks, put a says. “Back in the 1870s, they’d build a fire with some rocks, put a grill on it.” grill on it.” One thing on which they all agree: never mess with your pits. This, One thing on which they all agree: never mess with your pits. This, it seems, is the sacred covenant of barbecuing. “If you don’t respect it seems, is the sacred covenant of barbecuing. “If you don’t respect the fire, it’ll bite you on your ass in a heartbeat,” Mueller says. “It lives the fire, it’ll bite you on your ass in a heartbeat,” Mueller says. “It lives and it breathes just like you do, and if you try to take advantage of it, and it breathes just like you do, and if you try to take advantage of it, it’ll get you.” it’ll get you.” If he has to eat something other than barbecue, Franklin says he If he has to eat something other than barbecue, Franklin says he heads to P. Terry’s for fast food and Uchiko or Chez Nous for something heads to P. Terry’s for fast food and Uchiko or Chez Nous for something upscale. “I like Chez Nous a lot,” he says. “It’s consistent too. It opened upscale. “I like Chez Nous a lot,” he says. “It’s consistent too. It opened up in the ‘80s, and it’s still got the same carpet, but it’s damn good.” up in the ‘80s, and it’s still got the same carpet, but it’s damn good.” Mueller says he’s always been a fast food snob. He likes Gumbo’s Mueller says he’s always been a fast food snob. He likes Gumbo’s in Round Rock. Stiles says he eats at Lambert’s — as much for the in Round Rock. Stiles says he eats at Lambert’s — as much for the architecture as the food. architecture as the food. Roberts lives and breathes barbecue. “The first time I ever tasted Roberts lives and breathes barbecue. “The first time I ever tasted it was in Smithville. Then, my daddy used to take me to Blanco. it was in Smithville. Then, my daddy used to take me to Blanco. We’d drive out there for day-old barbecue ‘cause it was cheap. The fat We’d drive out there for day-old barbecue ‘cause it was cheap. The fat would turn yellow on the brisket, and it was delicious.” would turn yellow on the brisket, and it was delicious.” The barbecue kings around the table make reassuring noises. The barbecue kings around the table make reassuring noises. There’s a ritual that goes with eating barbecue. “Back then it was There’s a ritual that goes with eating barbecue. “Back then it was crackers — no bread,” Roberts says. “You’d take some brisket, chop crackers — no bread,” Roberts says. “You’d take some brisket, chop up a pickle and some onion into little bitty pieces, takes some cheese, up a pickle and some onion into little bitty pieces, take some cheese, then put it all inside the cracker and eat it.” then put it all inside the cracker and eat it.” “We’d always hold back about six links of sausage,” Mueller says, “We’d always hold back about six links of sausage,” Mueller says, “and every Sunday morning we’d meet at Louie Mueller’s at 8 o’clock “and every Sunday morning we’d meet at Louie Mueller’s at 8 o’clock — me, dad and whoever else was working there — and we wouldn’t — me, dad and whoever else was working there — and we wouldn’t talk to each other. We’d just sit, read the papers, drink a few beers talk to each other. We’d just sit, read the papers, drink a few beers and eat that delicious sausage. It’s a memory I’ll never forget. It and eat that delicious sausage. It’s a memory I’ll never forget. It wasn’t about talking. It was about enjoying after a long-ass week.” wasn’t about talking. It was about enjoying after a long-ass week.” “I think we’re all fanatics,” Roberts says. “We like fire and we like food.” “I think we’re all fanatics,” Roberts says. “We like fire and we like food.” “We’re all nuts,” Franklin adds, laughing. “There’s something “We’re all nuts,” Franklin adds, laughing. “There’s something severely defective with all of us putting in that many hours for food.” severely defective with all of us putting in that many hours for food.” Why do you do it? I ask. Why do you do it? I ask. “Because it’s the finest stuff you can eat,” Roberts says. “If you get “Because it’s the finest stuff you can eat,” Roberts says. “If you get it right.” it right.” tribeza.com

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By LIsa sIva

phOtOGraphy By JOdy hOrtOn

FOur AuSTIN CHeFS AT THe TOP OF THeIr GAMe SHOW uS THeIr VerSION OF THe uLTIMATe TAKe ON A STAPLe — FrIeD CHICKeN. 52

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The first bite

into a piece of perfectly fried chicken is a near religious experience: as you draw closer, the mouthwatering aroma becomes irresistible, and you savor a delightfully crispy layer of skin before it gives way to juicy chicken beneath. Though fried

b elov ed a ro u n d t h e Wo r l d, F r i ed c h i c K en ta K e S o n d i F F er en t i n c a r n at i o n S i n Fo u r K itc h en S ac roS S au S t i n . P i c t u r ed h er e i S Ja M e S h o l M e S o F lu c y ' S F r i ed c h i c K en ' S i n t er P r e tat i o n .

chicken has never achieved the haute cuisine pedigree of something like foie gras, it has remained a beloved comfort food, whether as an American staple or across the Pacific, as Japanese chicken katsu. Its universal appeal makes fried chicken the ideal blank culinary canvas. To discover just how inventive and versatile fried chicken can be, we invited four local chefs to create interpretations evoking their unique culinary aesthetics: James Holmes of Lucy’s Fried Chicken showcased a timeless, traditional dish, while Tyson Cole of Uchi, Todd Duplechan of Lenoir and Bryce Gilmore of Barley Swine offered twists on the classic. tribeza.com

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LuCy’S FrIeD CHICKeN AND OLIVIA’S CLASSIC FrIeD CHICKeN

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i n S P i r ed by h i S g r a n d M ot h er ’ S r eci P e, c h eF Ja M e S h o l M e S g i v e S h i S c l a S S i c Fr i ed c h i c K en a K i c K W i t h Ja l a P en oS .

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hen asked about his most memorable fried chicken, Holmes instantly recalls Sunday family gatherings in the afternoons (although he admits to a weakness for leftover fried chicken straight from the fridge). It’s this memory of warmth and family that Holmes evokes at Lucy’s Fried Chicken, where he serves a classic fried chicken loosely based on his grandmother’s recipe. “What makes it a really good fried chicken is that I don’t complicate it too much,” he observes. Holmes forgoes double-breading and instead relies on good frying oil and heavy seasoning for layers of flavor. On any given day, you’ll find Lucy’s packed with people, a good percentage of them musicians, while others are chefs like Bryce Gilmore with a penchant for comfort food. “The reason people come to Lucy’s — the rock stars, the old ladies — is that they just want some straight-up fried chicken,” says Holmes. “It’s what I do best.”


c h eF to d d d u P l ec h a n h e a dS e a S t W it h h i S a ro M at i c F r i ed c h i c K en , b u r S t i n g W it h t h e F l avo r S o F co co n u t M i l K , t u r M er i c a n d M o r e.

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t Lenoir, Chef Todd Duplechan is inspired by “hot weather places,” from North Africa to Vietnam. His philosophy of lighter cuisine, more spices and seasonal ingredients translates into a highly aromatic and flavorful whole chicken, poached in coconut milk and spices like turmeric —Duplechan’s take on the more traditional buttermilk — dredged in additional spices and chickpea flour and fried in a cast-iron skillet. “I didn’t grow up with fried chicken,” Duplechan admits. “So I came at it the way I like to do things at our restaurant: interpretations of classics.” Nevertheless, Duplechan was careful to maintain the simplicity of fried chicken that diners enjoy so much: “Tacos, barbecue and fried chicken are all considered low-brow food, but when done right, they can be as good as a 30-course meal at Alinea.” Rather than adding unnecessary elements to his dish, Duplechan focuses on developing its flavors. “A dish is complete when no more can be added and no more can be taken away,” he observes. “It’s the brilliance of simplicity.” tribeza.com

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at u c h i , a b r i g h t, S e a So n a l P i c K l e co M P l e t e S c h eF t ySo n co l e ’ S l eg en da ry c h i c K en K a r a ag e.

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c h eF t ySo n co l e S t r i v e S Fo r b a l a n c ed t e X t u r e, JuicineSS and F l avo r i n t h e P er F ec t F r i ed c h i c K en .

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uCHI AND uCHIKO’S CHICKeN KArAAGe

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hef Tyson Cole’s Chicken Karaage has become legendary in the Uchi family. While the technique is similar to its American counterpart — marinate, bread, fry — the chicken’s aromatic marinade opens up an entirely new flavor profile. Cole accompanies his Karaage with a seasonal pickle, adding a hint of acidity to balance the richness of the fried chicken. “The three most important things are the texture, the juiciness and the flavor,” he says of the perfect fried chicken. With the Karaage, “it’s the pickle that makes it.” In addition to Chicken Karaage, Cole notes several other Japanese interpretations of fried chicken that he holds close to his heart. His favorite is chicken katsu, fried with panko breadcrumbs — unlike the Karaage, which requires cornstarch — and accompanied by sliced cabbage and tonkatsu sauce. Though fried chicken has been a part of the traditional Japanese diet for some time, Cole notes its rising popularity in the culinary world: “It’s something very accessible,” he observes. “Everyone is trying to be creative these days, and fried chicken is a great template.” tribeza.com

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BArLey SWINe’S FrIeD CHICKeN TeSTICLeS

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Fo l loW i n g h i S “ n oS e to ta i l” a P P roac h at b a r l e y S W i n e, c h eF b ryc e g i l M o r e o F F er S a da r i n g ta K e o n a c l a S S i c .

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hef Bryce Gilmore’s interpretation of fried chicken is not for the faint of heart. Paired with ash oil, hay-infused grits and a boiled egg, Gilmore’s fried chicken testicles make for an especially innovative take on the American classic. (The accompanying pickled mustard seeds are a riff on the traditional side of pickles.) “There’s a certain sense of nostalgia,” Gilmore remarks, “taking things people grew up eating and doing something different with it.” Approaching the dish with both a taste for adventure and a sense of humor — “It’s a fertility plate!” he laughs — Gilmore seeks to introduce diners at Barley Swine to new ways of experiencing old favorites. “The thing that people are realizing is that they’ve strayed away from these things because of the texture or unfamiliar flavor, but when they try it, they like it!” Ultimately, however, Gilmore views fried chicken as an emblem of classic, Texas cuisine, exclaiming, “It’s one of the best ways to eat chicken!”


AV o I D t H e “ W o U l D A , c o U l D A , s H o U l D A’ s ” H U R RY I N to t R U l U c k ’ s ! f R e s H f l o R I D A s t o N e c R A B s e A s o N e N D s m AY 1 5 t H .

Summer Crab season is just around the corner, featuring fresh Maine Jonah Crab, Dungeness Crab and Red King Crab.

Downtown 4th and Colorado 512 482 9000 Arboretum 183 and Great Hills Trail 512 794 8300 www.trulucks.com


Foodie Style Crushes They do much more than just take your order — meet three fashionable wait staffs who serve up a side of style.

B y L au r en S m i t h F o r d P ho t o g ra p h y by Co dy H a m ilt o n


Each Houndstooth Coffee barista has his or her own approach to dressing for Fancy Friday, but owner Sean Henry does see some similarities: “All of us seem to gravitate to some updated vintage looks — classic and fairly simple but with new personal flair…much like our coffee — simple yet refined.” Pictured from left to right Stephanie Derstine, Daniel Read, Sean Henry (Houndstooth owner), Paul Henry, Samantha McCrary-Jensen and Rudi Miller (Fancy Friday founder). tribeza.com

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fo o d ie styl e c ru sh es

Fancy Fridays at Houndstooth Coffee

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ou can forget about casual Friday at Houndstooth Coffee, which sets the new standard for end of the workweek dressing with — Fancy Friday. Owner Sean Henry explains: “Rudi Miller (pictured in the pink shirt and bowtie) began wearing a tie on Fridays to ‘redeem casual Friday.’ He just started one day and kept up with it. Some other staff members began to catch the bug, and guests “ W e Wan t t o seemed to respond very well to it, so we all starting dressing-up re spe c t o u r s elv e s , Friday. Thus #fancyfriday was o u r c o ffe e s a n d officially an organic outgrowth o u r jo b s b y b ei ng of personal style and the guest pre se n ta b le ,” experience.” Besides Fancy He n ry says . “ e acH Friday, there isn’t really a specific pe r s o n Has t H ei r dress code. “We want to respect oW n st yl e , b u t ourselves, our coffees and our tHe e n d g oa l i s t o jobs by being presentable,” Henry pre se n t tHe co ffee says. “Each person has their own as W e l l as We ca n.” style, but the end goal is to present the coffee as well as we can.” A few new coffee concepts are in the works and a second location in Dallas will open sometime in late Summer 2012. “Being a barista is about connecting coffee to guest. We all take our jobs in coffee seriously without taking ourselves too seriously. We take pride in what we do but don’t worry about acting or being cool, “ he says. “We are like a family, which shows in everyone’s work ethic. We aim to capitalize on everyone strengths, because more than likely, they make up for others’ weaknesses.”

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Team Foodheads gathered at the counter at their cozy 34th Street spot, where you can order one of their fresh sandwiches, salads or soups (pictured from left to right Megan Carney, Emily Donohoo, Blair Wellen, Ayla Erdener, Sarah Kate Chapman and Eva Shivers).

The Naturals at Foodheads

O

ur TRIBEZA offices are just a block from Foodheads, so we are frequent customers for a fresh sandwich on delicious bread or an afternoon pick-meup snack. We always admire the natural beauty and laid-back but unique styles of the team of gals that work there. Front-end manager Eva Shivers describes the culture at Foodheads as “one big and super fun

family!” They can often be found prepping the food in back, exchanging stories or recapping the latest episode of Downton Abbey. “Our staff is special because we all enjoy food. We all have different backgrounds and education, and yet we make food together and serve the Austin community,” Shivers says. “We joke around and laugh. There are even talks of starting a Foodheads band.” The only dress code is

“anything goes,” but Shivers says they seem to “all gravitate towards a comfortable clothes with our own touch of style,” paired with aprons from the City-Wide Garage Sale. Now, the “front girls,” as they call the Foodheads waitresses, are working on their new hours (opening at 7am every morning) and serving dinner Thursday through Saturday nights until 9pm. Check out their catering menu at foodheads.com. tribeza.com

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A few members of the chic waitstaff in their French meets Vietnamese-inspired frocks.

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By L A y N E L y N C H Photography by Kenny Braun

Three female chefs challenge The male-dominaTed sphere of professional cuisine. 66

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From New American cuisine to comfort food to Mexican classics, these three chefs, like Sonya CotÊ, pictured in the kitchen at Hillside Farmacy, break the kitchen’s glass ceiling. tribeza.com

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Executive Chef at Max’s Wine Dive, Erica Beneke can’t remember a time she didn’t love to cook.

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Though once a graphic designer, Chef Sonya Coté (pictured right) soon realized she belonged on the other side of the kitchen.

The home kitchen, warm and fragrant with spices and herbs, has historically been identified as the woman’s domain, yet in professional restaurant kitchens, the opposite is true: whether Thomas Keller of Per Se, Grant Achatz of Alinea or Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park, male chefs have become the predominant face of haute cuisine. Change, however, is upon us. Observe some of the new progressive restaurants in town today, and it becomes clear that something spectacular is taking root: women are not only attaining positions in the kitchen — they’re often running them. In spite of the odds stacked against them, a number of female chefs have shattered the glass ceiling, refusing to fall victim to the expectation that they don't have what it takes to survive and thrive in a restaurant kitchen. Sonya Coté, Executive Chef of East Side Show Room, was forced to learn her survival skills early on. Her father died when she was young, and her mother was largely absent during her formative years. Growing up amidst the rough and tumble of a commune, Coté made a pact with herself to remain resilient. She developed a thick skin, street smarts and a diehard independence that aided her in the inferno of the kitchen. “It brought out this internal survival mode in me,” Coté says. “I learned that I had to prove I could do things for myself and no one else.” Cuisine didn’t take full precedence in her life until the early nineties when she began working at Whole Foods in marketing and graphic arts. Through years of working

alongside chefs, Coté discovered an admiration for edible artistry. “I was completely fascinated by their knowledge base and thought they were total badasses,” she says. So she refined her skills as a chef de cuisine and never looked back. Coté started as the sous chef for the Hoffman Haus hotel and The Natural Palette Cooking School in Fredericksburg and cultivated a passion for local farmers’ and purveyors’ cuisine alongside Jesse Griffith of Dai Due before being hired as the executive chef of East Side Show Room. Coté often utilized her revolutionary spirit to propel her beyond moments of feeling frustrated with the gender clichés in the kitchen. It didn’t matter that she was a woman; she was in charge. “There’s something about a kitchen that brings out a certain breed that a lot of women aren’t attracted to, or they’re scared of it,” Coté says. “There’s a mentality in the kitchen you have to have that a lot of women don’t naturally have.”

“There’s a menTaliTY in The kiTchen YOu have TO have ThaT a lOT Of wOmen dOn’T naTurallY have.”

SoNyA CoTé—

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“The cOOks were like, ‘reallY, YOu can clean whOle fish? ’ and i said, ‘Yes, i can clean whOle fish. i’ve been dOing This fOr a lOng Time.’”

out to Beneke: it personified an air of change. Her advocacy for local cuisine In November 2011 — at 23 years old — she was has only aided in her evolution as promoted to Chef de Cuisine and recently, to an unstoppable force. With the Executive Chef. “To make it in this business, you relationships she’s nurtured amongst just have to keep your chin up and stay strong,” farmers and purveyors, Coté recently she says. “Take every criticism with a grain of opened Hillside Farmacy, an East Side salt and continue to be inspired by your work.” restaurant that serves deli sandwiches, Alma Alcocer-Thomas began developing small plates, and a selection of beer a love for all things culinary as a young girl and wine. The Hillside Farmacy growing up in Mexico City, where she would building seems an appropriate symbol prepare savory tortilla soup and spicy chile of minority empowerment, as the relleno dishes for her family. As a teenager, former site of Austin's first AfricanAlcocer-Thomas left Mexico for Paris to American-run pharmacy. attend Le Cordon Bleu, mastering volumes of Before she was of legal working age, European-inspired, avant-garde dishes, before Erica Beneke, Executive Chef of Max’s developing a reputation for excellence in Austin Wine Dive, coerced her parents into and taking the reigns as Executive Chef of El letting her accept a bakery position Alma Café y Cantina. in their small town, washing pots AlMA AlCoCER-THoMA S— After completing her culinary education and pans and carrying topsy-turvy in Paris, Alcocer-Thomas soon settled in Austin, wedding cakes to a delivery van. Like where she discovered that many male chefs were rather surprised Coté, she had harvested an early appreciation for cuisine, often by her work ethic and extraordinary skills she had cultivated over making family meals like fried samosas, Thai spring rolls, scratchtime. “The kitchen was 100 percent male-dominated and run like it made pizzas and hand-rolled sushi. “I can’t remember a time I was 20 years [in the past],” she observes of one local restaurant. “The didn’t want to be around food,” Beneke confesses. cooks were like, ‘Really, you can clean whole fish?’ and I said, ‘Yes, I After finishing a degree in culinary arts at Paul Smith’s College, can clean whole fish. I’ve been doing this for a long time.’” Despite the Beneke entered the culinary world at Taughannock Farms Inn. In reservations of her male peers, Alcocer-Thomas worked to prove she the early years of working in a professional kitchen, however, she belonged in the restaurant kitchen with the rest of the men. “you have discovered something about the testosterone-heavy atmosphere: to tough it out and separate feelings and emotions from what’s going it had its ways of making women cave under pressure, often on around you. I had to prove myself like a lot of other chefs,” she said. convincing them to retreat to work as personal chefs or caterers During her 16-year run at Jeffrey’s, Alcocer-Thomas worked her instead. Beneke made a promise to herself though that she wouldn’t way up to Executive Chef, before opening Tacos and Tequila on 5th accept defeat. Street. Four years later, Alcocer-Thomas has become Executive Chef When Beneke started on the hot food line, fellow male chefs of the El Chile Restaurant Group, owned by former fellow Jeffrey’s commented how “cute” it was they had a girl working in their veteran Carlos Rivero. With El Chile, Alcocer-Thomas has embarked presence. “I started feeling a tension because it was faster and more on her most exciting culinary project yet: El Alma Café y Cantina, a demanding. There was an expectation that you would fail,” she notes. restaurant that embodies the casual, Mexico-City cuisine she grew up “I learned very quickly that I would have to work a lot harder than cooking and eating. everyone else around me to prove myself.” Prove herself she did. At 19 For those female chefs who desire to follow in her, Coté’s and years old, she was promoted to sous chef and began running the maleBeneke’s footsteps, Alcocer-Thomas has a piece of advice: “Look for heavy staff of individuals, much of whom were decades older her. those places that encourage your growth,” she remarks. “Make sure the In 2009, she relocated to Austin to work as a line cook at Max’s people you work for challenge you but still support your work, your Wine Dive and was promoted to sous chef in six months. There was progress and your cuisine.” something about the Austin culinary scene in particular that stood

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After studying in Paris and settling in Austin, Chef Alma AlcocerThomas returns to her culinary roots in Mexico. tribeza.com

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orget the archetypal chef who menaces his cooks with a rolling pin: when I meet Chef Paul Qui at Uchiko, he’s sitting at the bar in sweats and a baseball cap, chatting animatedly with one of his sous chefs as they prepare to open for the day. In fact, Chef Qui’s tightly-knit kitchen is immediately evident to the casual patron: nine weeks away from a restaurant is enough to make most chefs sweat, but during the filming for Top Chef: Texas, Chef Qui knew he was leaving his restaurant in capable hands. “The relationship between cooks and chefs is a very intimate one,” he says. “If your cooks aren’t excited about the food you’re cooking, then your food isn’t going to be as good.” And it’s impossible not to be excited about Uchiko — since he first stepped foot into Uchi nine years ago, Chef Paul Qui has continued to cultivate his cuisine with humility and heart. Many chefs can trace their love of food to their youth, and Qui is no exception, recalling his childhood in the Philippines, surrounded by aromatic home cooking. As an Austinite, he still finds himself nostalgic for Filipino cuisine — his maternal grandmother’s cooking in particular: “Every time she would nine Years agO, chef cook, there would be a bowl of crispy Paul Qui had never pork bits (chincharrón) that I got to cOOked in a resTauranT snack on,” he remembers fondly. While kiTchen. TOdaY, as Qui continues to draw from Filipino execuTive chef aT uchikO cuisine today, he leapt at the chance and a TOP chef, he to attend high school in Springfield, reflecTs On his meTeOric Virginia as a teenager before moving culinarY jOurneY. to Houston. Despite making hot dogs at Orange Julius in high school and B y L i s a s i va waiting tables in college, however, Qui p h oTo g r a p h y By R a n da L F o R d largely remained outside the restaurant kitchen and uncertain of his career path. “I was at a period of my life when I was a little bit lost,” he says. “I was trying to look for something that would inspire me for the rest of my life.” That was when Qui realized his future lay in the back of the house. After a friend convinced him to move to Austin, Qui attended the Texas Culinary Academy — now Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Austin — and expanded upon his studies through blogs, books and dining — a

Paul Qui

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practice he maintains today. “I think it should be a part of every chef ’s agenda to continue their education,” he insists. “Because you can’t just say, ‘I’ve learned this, and that’s it.’ Eating is a huge part of it. If you’re going to learn about food, you need to eat a lot of food.” Over the course of his culinary explorations, Qui has discovered inspiration in memorable meals across the globe, including at New york City’s Eleven Madison Park and his staple, Gramercy Tavern. Above all, however, Qui counts his first meal at Uchi as his most unforgettable dining experience. “I remember the tuna and goat cheese — but nobody ever forgets that dish,” he smiles. “It’s basically what started me off in the path I’ve taken.” And what a path it’s been: Qui was so struck by Uchi’s cuisine that he offered to work at the restaurant for free, and since that first meal nearly a decade ago, Qui has quickly worked his way through the ranks and developed a close relationship to his mentor and Uchi’s Executive Chef, Tyson Cole. It soon came time for Uchi to expand, and there was little debate about who would helm its sister restaurant, Uchiko. When he reflects on the process of becoming Executive Chef of his own restaurant, however, Paul Qui cites his ethic of humility and perseverance. No matter how menial the task, he remarks, “a big part of my culture as a chef and in my kitchen is that you just have to keep your head down and keep on pushing.” This quiet determination served Qui well, even beyond Uchiko, when he and a few friends launched East Side King in early 2010. “We were so disorganized,” he admits. “We were just like, ‘Let’s open! Lets make some food! Let’s make it good! Hopefully, people will like it.’” At first a seemingly innocuous venture, East Side King has become a sensational favorite among Austinites, because despite the limitations of a trailer (albeit three of them), Qui maintains a commitment to excellence. “I stick with my culinary philosophy of balancing sweet, salty, sour, freshness and different textures,” he observes. “My goal is to make the best possible food I can every day.” It’s a philosophy that Qui carries with him, whether he’s making foie gras with a beet-juice handprint for Charlize Theron on Top Chef or whipping up his signature Poor Qui pork belly buns at East Side King. In the aftermath of Top Chef, Qui looks forward to further challenging himself and his cuisine with a highly-anticipated new project, which he is keeping under wraps for now. Until then, he says, “I’m going to keep on pushing the envelope and trying to figure out what more I can do with food.”


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The burgeoning movemenT of specialized meaT purveyors in ausTin

hroughout the years, meat purveyors and carnivore enthusiasts of the traditional variety have never been in short supply in Austin. Brisket, ribs, sausage — it can be found in all forms here. Take, for example, the family-run Smokey Denmark’s in East Austin, which has been producing smoked sausages and other meats in its onsite

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By

S. KirK WalSh

PhotograPhy by Michael Thad carTer

factory since 1964 (when the business was started by Mr. Denmark himself). Nowadays, a visitor can stop by their modest beige-bricked factory and smokehouse on East Fifth Street and purchase any of the 25 different kinds of sausage — from kielbasa with jalapeño and cheese to British bangers (with a softer texture due to the additional ingredient of bread). A majority of the meat producer’s customers range from independent food trailers, such as Hill Country Pierogi, to chain restaurants, such as Jason’s Deli. Smokey Denmark’s also offers federally inspected, wild-game processing for hunters. “Everyone’s game is butchered separately,” explains Jonathan Pace, the owner with his


Chef Drew Curren crafts an original menu of handmade sausages and other savory meats at Easy Tiger Bake Shop & Beer Garden. tribeza.com

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Husband-and-wife team Jonathan and Melissa Pace preserve the oldschool sausage tradition at Smokey Denmark's, which first opened in 1964.

wife, Melissa, “and the hunters can choose how they want to make it.” More recently, meat — in all of its various incarnations — has undergone something of revolution, veering away from the more traditional approaches of longtime institutions, like Smokey’s. Inspired by the ever-growing locavore movement, this new breed of purveyors is embracing locally produced meat and a nose-to-tail philosophy (which involves, as the name suggests, using the entire animal). One can witness this movement at work by visiting Jessie Griffiths’ bustling commercial kitchen of Dai Due, which is located in a mint-green bungalow on the west side of town. Inside, a batch of tangerine marmalade bubbles in an oversize saucepan sitting on an industrial stovetop. An aproned woman swiftly chops a growing mound of onions and herbs. Inside the large walk-in refrigerator, there are stainless steel trays filled with recently prepared blood sausage, rabbit terrines, wild boar bangers and pancetta and chicken and artichoke sausage. For the past three years, Dai Due has been offering a vast menu of these locally sourced items at the farmer’s market at Republic Square every Saturday morning. All of the meats are provided by federally inspected ranches and farms, such as Broken Arrow Ranch, which field-harvests exotic species of game, Madroño Ranch and Thunder Heart, which both harvest grass-fed bison. In February, in honor of Valentine’s Day, a limited offering of bison hearts sold out. Coming up on the menu soon: Rocky Mountain oysters (or bison testicles). “The market is growing,” says Martin Kohout, coproprietor of Madroño. “People appreciate the value of the kind of meat provided by independent growers.”

“tHe idea is tHat people Will become more tHougHtful and efficient Hunters and consumers,” says KoHout, “and none of tHe animal Will be Wasted.”

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In addition, Griffiths travels out to the almost 1,500-acre Madroño Ranch and leads three-day hunting schools for experienced and beginner hunters alike. (Griffiths also designs these weekends for private parties throughout the state.) Most recently, eight participants converged at the ranch in Medina, about two and half hours west of Austin, for Hog School, where seven feral hogs were shot, and then Griffith and his chef, Morgan Angelone, butchered two of the animals and roasted one small hog, and created a multi-course meal, following the nose-to-tail philosophy. Some of the prepared dishes included pâté, three kinds of sausage, wild boar sugo and smoked boar loin. (Students also took home their own animals.) During the summer and fall months, there are plans in the works for Freshwater Fly-Fishing School and an All-Women’s Hunting School. “The idea is that people will become more thoughtful and efficient hunters and consumers,” says Kohout, “and none of the animal will be wasted.” Griffith adds about this whole-animal approach:


Kara Chadbourne prepares sausages and other meats from regional and seasonal ingredients in the kitchen of Dai Due for its weekly farm stand. tribeza.com

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A vegan for ten years before cultivating an interest in butchering himself, Runkle says that his passion was spurred on by wanting to understand the origins of his food: “It was a kind of intellectual pursuit,” he explains. “I felt like if I was going to put meat in my body, I wanted to know where it was coming from.” Before Runkle’s wife knew it, he had procured a sausage stuffer and was learning how to make his own sausage. Beyond selling at the farmers’ market, Salt & Time also offers a Butcher’s Box, which provides customers with a selection of locally sourced products, such as pork loin roast, duck confit and andouille sausage. There This fall, areSalt also&plans Timetowill open be aopening brickand-mortar a butcher shop butcher and salumeria shop, featuring at 1912many East of 7th these Street. items, in “People East Austin are becoming by the summer. more adventurous “People areinbecoming what theymore eat,” adventurous says Runkle. “More in whatwilling they eat,” to eat says lesser-known Runkle. “More cutswilling of meat.” to eatAt lesser-known Easy Tiger cuts Bake ofShop meat.and Beer Garden, Drew Curren At Easy andTiger his kitchen Bake Shop present andaBeer wideGarden, variety ofDrew handmade Currensmoked and his sausages, kitchenpastrami, present acorned wide variety beef and of handmade pâtés. Thesmoked new downtown sausages, location pastrami, in a turn-of-the-century corned beef andbuilding pâtés. The onnew Sixthdowntown Street, just location west ofinInterstate a turnof-the-century 35 and overlooking building Waller on Sixth Creek, Street, also showcases just west ofan Interstate impressive 35 and bakery overlooking led by DavidWaller Norman Creek, (a veteran also showcases of Bouley anBakery impressive in New bakery York led City). by David Together, Norman the pairing (a veteran of Norman’s of Bouleypretzel Bakerybuns in New andyork Curren’s City). classic Together, the sausages pairing with of Norman’s braised red pretzel cabbage bunsorand homemade Curren’s classic kraut make sausages forwith a braised mouthwatering red cabbage combination. or homemade Curren kraut purchases make forhis a mouthwatering meat from local combination. farms, such asCurren Broken purchases Arrow, ashis well meat as from local ranches farms, around such the as Broken Arrow, country,assuch well as Beeler from ranches pork and around Premium the country, Gold Angus such asbeef Beeler (a neverpork and everPremium program,Gold which Angus means beef the(acattle never-ever have never program, beenwhich givenmeans artificial the cattle growth have hormones never been or antibiotics). given artificial Ongrowth a recent hormones weekday,orCurren antibiotics). was On experimenting a recent weekday, with four Curren different was experimenting terrines madewith from four wild different venison terrines liver andmade an elk from sausage wild venison with charred liver and jalapeños. an elk sausage “Peoplewith lovecharred rustic, jalapeños. thoughtful“People presentation love rustic, of meat,” thoughtful says Curren. presentation “It’s not of going meat,”to says go Curren. away. People “It’s not demand going to it.”go away. People demand it.”

“I felt lIke “i liKe if Ii was If Was going to goIng put meat in my body, In Ii wanted Wanted to know KnoW WHere It where it Was comIng was coming from.”

martin Kohout, co-proprietor Martin of madroño Madroño Ranch, supplies bison meat for the Dai Due farm stand at Republic Square; the ranch also serves as the location for a new series of hunting schools.

“It’s important to present all of the other cuts creatively in order to educate people how to utilize the whole animal.” Ben Runkle and Bryan Butler of Salt & Time also take this approach in their artisanal line of cured meats, pickles, and other products that are sold are sold at farmer’s at farmer’s markets markets (Barton (Barton Creek Creek andand Hope). HOPE). TheirTheir namename speaks to speaks the process to the process of curing: of curing: “We use“We ample useamounts ample amounts of salt, and of salt, then and we let the thenmeat we let sitthe for meat time,”sit explains for time,” Runkle. explains “It’sRunkle. not this“It’s simple, not this but simple, it is the general but it is idea.” the general Runkle idea.” andRunkle Butler also andsource Butler whole also source animals whole for animals five to six local for five farms, to sixincluding local farms, Richardson, includingBlack Richardson, Hill Ranch, Blackand HillWindy Ranch,Hill. and Together, Windy Hill. theTogether, two butchers the two create butchers an array create of meats an array cured of meats in traditional cured in European traditionalfashion European butfashion featuring butunique featuring flavor unique profiles flavor — from profiles the— Coppa from (thinly the Coppa sliced (thinly porksliced rolledpork in paprika, rolled in cumin, paprika, andcumin, citrus)and to the citrus) Coffee to the Lomo Coffee (a Lomo striking (a striking blend of blend coffee, of coffee, chile, cumin, chile, cumin and whole and whole pork loin pork loin flavors). Currently, Salt & Time are experimenting with unusual flavor fusions for bacon. A recent creation was a Thai-influenced bacon that combined the flavors of ginger, lemongrass and fish sauce.

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Although they take cues from Italian curing techniques, Ben Runkle (pictured) and Bryan Butler develop innovative flavor profiles at Salt & Time.

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by megan giller

illusTraTions By GeMMa correll

GRowinG

Pains Austin is already a foodie destination, but we need a few finishing touches before we can become a well-rounded food town.

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w

hen my parents first pulled up to the Drag in the seventies to start school, Austin was a small town: you had your choice of Tex-Mex, hippie cuisine or more Tex-Mex. Those were the years of cheese enchiladas with chile con queso and sundaes from the neighborhood blacklit, psychedelic ice cream shop. Fast-forward forty years and Austin has transformed. you can still find amazing Tex-Mex at Polvo’s or breakfast tacos at Tamale House, but you can also cruise to Lilly’s for a bánh mì or Karibu for Doro Wat stewed chicken. And recently, the city has cemented its place in the foodie scene. “Austin has been on fire the last year,” says Pat Sharpe, executive editor and food writer at Texas Monthly. “The national media has a lot to do with Austin’s present status as a food boomtown — they didn’t make it happen, but they have certainly trumpeted us all over the country.” Bon Appétit, Food & Wine and countless others have noticed us. As Kendall Antonelli, the coowner of Antonelli’s Cheese Shop (with husband John), says, “Everything is changing. As of three or four years ago, you couldn’t find a local charcuterie producer. Now you have Dai Due and Salt & Time.” Beyond that, a recent survey by Bundle.com found that of all U.S. cities, Austin spends the most on dining out: $6,301 per year, almost twice the national average. Eating out — and eating good food — is important to us, which makes our city a destination for chefs and restaurateurs. That’s great for tourists and even better for residents, who get to enjoy the tasty rewards. But what does Austin need to do round out our food scene? What types of cuisine are we still missing — and where?

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Asian and Southeast Asian Every Austinite knows which direction to point for Asian food: north. The North Lamar area is a hot spot for Vietnamese, and there’s Chinese barbecue (Din Ho) and Thai (Titaya’s) thrown in too. “Ethnic food in Austin has come a long way in recent years with the addition of several noted Indian and Japanese restaurants such as Taj Mahal and Kome,” says Addie Broyles, food writer and blogger for the Austin American-Statesman. But as Sharpe says, “Austin does not have great depth or variety in ethnic restaurants that spring from an indigenous community, other than Mexican food.” I asked Paul Qui, the executive chef at Uchiko (and the beloved winner of the most recent season of Top Chef ), what he thinks Austin is still missing. His list was almost exclusively Asian: “great Chinese/ Cantonese, Cambodian, Malaysian, Filipino.” Qui is doing his part to bring Asian flavors to our city with Uchiko and his three East Side King trailers. But there’s still a scarcity of sesame chicken in South Austin and interesting fusion dishes everywhere. Why? “Austin is not a port city and it is relatively small,” says Sharpe. “Both of those factors limit its ethnic population. Ultimately, you need deep roots for great food to happen.” We may not have Sri Lankan cuisine yet, but fortunately for South Austinites, chefs like Larry McGuire and Rene Ortiz are bringing ethnic down south. McGuire’s Elizabeth Street Café has been serving up impressive Vietnamese food since December, and Ortiz will be opening a Thai restaurant across the street soon.

South and Central American For a city with so many tortillas, there is a lack of authentic South and Central American cuisine. Sure, places like Casa Colombia offer hearty meat dishes and Buenos Aires Café’s flaky empanadas are close to the real thing. But if you travel away from the East Side to Hyde Park or near Zilker Park, you will be out of luck. “In D.C.,” Antonelli says, “We would eat El Salvadorean food. But it’s not super prevalent here.” Other chefs and entrepreneurs I talked to missed South American food too. Qui mentioned he would like to see Bolivian and Peruvian food in particular. Cameron Lockley, the managing partner of the soon-to-be-reopened La Sombra and Gusto Italian Kitchen and Wine Bar, is ready to jump on the Peruvian trend. “Peruvian food is becoming more familiar the world over,” he said. “Additionally, Peru has been named the top food tourism destination by several publications for this upcoming year.” Plenty of Austin restaurants offer ceviche, Peru’s national food, but it would be incredible to have a spot with different types of the pickled fish dish, as well as anticuchos (skewered meats) and other delicacies.

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Homestyle Italian Fortunately for us, Austin boasts several fine Italian dining restaurants: Vespaio and Enoteca have made South Congress their home for some time; Asti Trattoria’s polenta bowls are awesome; and Shawn Cirkiel’s upscale Olive & June recently opened on 35th Street (try their homemade pappardelle with short ribs and sunchoke purée). But aside from Mandola’s, which pretty much has the mid-priced market cornered, we are lacking in Italian home cooking, as well as variety. Gusto Italian Kitchen and Wine Bar, which recently opened in the old La Sombra location, boasts a homey vibe and a fun happy hour, but its spaghetti carbonara needs to be creamier before it can stake its claim. And if you want spaghetti and meatballs south of the river? Or Southern Italian sardines, cooked with lemon and capers? Austin is still waiting for its Little Italy to appear, especially in South and East Austin, where there is a paucity of panini. After all, what’s more fun than slurping spaghetti at the neighborhood pasta spot? As Lockley says, “Italian food is comfort food for a lot of people.”

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The next step In other words, Austin is still in its adolescence. “Austin is like fifth grade going into sixth,” says Louis Singh, co-owner of catering company Dishalicious. “you’ve reached the top of what you think is your mountain, but you have a lot more growing to do.” And grow we are: Restaurants are opening faster than I can bring a fork to my face. “People are seeing a need and are filling the niches,” Antonelli says. That’s great news for us gluttons. I can’t wait for Barrie Cullinan, for example, to open her bakery and give Central Austinites a taste of her crusty baguettes and paradoxically buttery light croissants. Antonelli is looking forward to a day when she can find raclette at a restaurant here (“you scrape the melted cheese off a wheel onto your meat and onto

cornichons and pickles,” she sighed when we spoke). Qui is dying for some lechón de leche and Broyles longs for Spanish tapas, like “cheap, small plates of patatas bravas, albondigas and tortilla española.” So what’s going to get us there? “Money, population, and time,” Sharpe says. “We are unfortunately short on resources. It costs money to hire top talent, to buy top ingredients (whether imported or locally sourced) and to pay overhead and develop locations that match the caliber of the food and kitchen.” Sharpe has eaten her way through several generations of food in Texas, from the days when Dallas was literally a cow town to its current urban landscape, and she has seen Houston and now Austin make the transition too. “All that will happen,” she says, “but not overnight.”


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style

behind the scenes

Easy Tiger’s Bake Shop head Baker dAVId normAn shows us The ropes Behind The arTisan Breads and pasTries aT easy Tiger.

The self-proclaimed “Head Dough Puncher,” David Norman collaborates with Chef Andrew Curren to develop breads for Easy Tiger.

W Whether pain au levain or baguette, Norman seeks to bake breads with “a good, balanced flavor” and the perfect texture.

Norman loves his laborintensive craft but notes that “cooks often say, ‘I would never have the patience to do all that!’”

Easy Tiger Bake Shop & Beer Garden is located at 709 E. 6th St. For more information, visit easytigeraustin.com.

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Norman bakes an array of artisan breads, including his signature pretzel bun, which accompanies Easy Tiger’s housemade sausage.

hile you’re enjoying the beer garden at Easy Tiger after work, chances are Head Baker David Norman is preparing his artisan breads in the bake shop above. From rye to miche, Norman bakes over a dozen breads, pretzels and pastries every evening — a meticulous process that begins at 8:30pm and continues late into the night. “Many people don’t realize the time that it takes to do the breads well,” he observes, “from the mixing to the dividing to the pre-shaping and shaping… we do a lot of things to one loaf of bread!” he laughs. As a junior in college, Norman spent a year abroad in Munich, Germany, and when he returned stateside, he found himself enamored of artisanal German beer and breads. He has since worked in bakeries across the country, from Seattle to New york City. Today at Easy Tiger, Norman evokes the German bake shops that first inspired him, carefully crafting each loaf, boule and pretzel. L. SIVA P H oTo G R A P H y By B I l l S A l l A N S


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Look book

Picnic in the Park

spring favoriTes for sunny days aT BarTon springs. Edited by Avalon McKenzie

lauren moffatt, spring 2012

Anchor neckL Ace $539 lauren Elizabeth Craft; Available at Eliza Page, 229 W. 2nd St. and elizapage.com.

morgAn Stud eArrIngS $55 Kendra Scott; Available at Kendra Scott, 1400 S. Congress Ave., A-170, and kendrascott.com.

round SungL ASSeS $495 Cutler & Gross; Available at J. Crew, 11501 Century oaks Terrace and j.crew.com

mArket bAg $95, Bamboula ltd.; Available at Madewell, 11501 Century oaks Terrace and madewell.com.

cIrcLeL Ace dreSS $148, Madewell; Available at Madewell, 11501 Century oaks Terrace and madewell.com.

Spring Foodie Reads

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l A TArTIne gourmAnde: reCIpeS for An InSpIred lIfe $35, By BĂŠatrice Peltre; plenTy: vIbr AnT reCIpeS from london'S oTTolengHI $35, By yotam ottolenghi; Available at Barnes and Noble locations, and bn.com.


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style

pRoduct pick

Laura Sawicki’s Stand Mixer

Pastry Chef Sawicki shares the story behind her most treasured kitchen appliance.

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aura Sawicki, Pastry Chef at La Condesa, still remembers the thrill of saving up enough money to buy her professional KitchenAid Stand Mixer as a young pastry chef in her 20s. Though she initially pursued art history and studio art in college, the culinary arts have always been a driving force in her life: “I grew up in an Argentine household, so every moment was shared eating and drinking,” she observes. “One day, I just woke up and realized that this is what I should be doing with my life.” Today, her stand mixer is the most-used item in her kitchen at La Condesa, whether she’s whipping up her signature chocolate chip cookies or a fruit cobbler for guests. Recently named Food & Wine’s Best New Pastry Chef, Sawicki notes the “romanticism” of her storied stand mxier: “It’s really versatile,” Sawicki says. “you can make cookies, breads, meringues — really anything!” L. SIVA

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P H oTo G R A P H y By A DA M Vo o R H E S


style

stReet Fa shion taRa peRkins

Portland, oR. Pants are from Black Milk

Jake kuykendaLL

28, Austin. He’s wearing his girlfriend’s glasses.

eRicka heRod

31, lA & Austin. She just finished DJ’ing for Style X.

SXSW Style

we hi hiT The sTreeTs TO find Ou hOw OuT w music fans were dressed fOr The fesT.

andRea nakhLa

23, lA. She got her skirt from Jet Rag in lA for $1.

daLia poch

22, Austin. She’s inspired by Korean fashion because they are six months ahead.

GRaham cumbeRbatch

bRooke bakeR

25, San Francisco & Austin. Art Director for Style X.

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veRonica Leon

24, Austin. His jacket is vintage 1950s from Amelia's on S. First

22, Caracas, Venezuela. She’s rocking an all thrifted outfit.

P H oTo G R A P H y By PA I G E N E W To N


Now Open!

Extraordinary vintage for women

We BUY vintage clothing, shoes, and accessories everyday

high-end designer clothing, shoes, and handbags we accept consignments everyday no appointment necessary

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705 b south lamar 512 916 9961 info@mossaustin.com www.mossaustin.com

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Now carrying shoes from Jeffrey Campbell and Dolce Vita

Photography: Amanda Elmore

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TRY OUR FAMOUS BOCADITOS

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style

my LiFe

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Elmar Prambs TRIO at the Four Seasons’ long-time Executive Chef shares snapshots from his childhood in Germany and throughout his life as a Texan. 1. Trying my hand as a soccer coach. 2. a tough day at work — with my wife mary and children sarah and martin. 3. now we are going way back to 1973 at the beginning of my chef's apprenticeship in germany. 4. my first boss — the chef at my first apprenticeship back in the 70s. i still visit him every time i go back to germany. 5. proud dad — my son's graduation from the austin police academy. 6. what's up? 7. cooking at home in vancouver in 1978. i still cook at home today. 8. my better half and me with my little girl lilly. 9. vacation in the old country. 10. at the four seasons hotel ednata in 1983 with the chef from the hotel sacher in vienna. 11. christmas with the family, 1991. 12. kicking back with a cold beverage in 1976 when i was working in stratford on avon for the hilton hotel.

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YOUR MOMENT IS NOW! SLIMLIPO IS OUR SOLUTION

512253525554 C E D A R P A R K S U R G E R Y . C O M


section psiucbks e c t i o n dining

Trento offers Westlake residents a modern take on fresh, casual Italian cuisine.

Trento 3600-d n. capital of texas hwy. Austin, tX 78746 (512) 328 7555 trento360.com

W

estlake is a residential oasis, but a culinary desert. Although one of Austin’s toniest neighborhoods, its dining options are few and far between — and mostly lackluster. So what are Westlakers to do when they don’t want to drive into town, up to the Arboretum or out to Bee Cave for a

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MAy 2012

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good meal? Sidle over to Trento. Smack-dab in the middle of Westlake, Trento occupies the space that formerly housed Gumbo’s across from Davenport Village. With a creative yet accessible Italian menu, Trento hopes to succeed where others haven’t. And so far, it seems to be heading in the right direction. Cosmetically, the space has been altered to reflect its new Italian persona. But its biggest change is in attitude. Trento throws open its doors with a warm Italian embrace. General Manager Donnie Damuth, formerly of NoRTH restaurant, is a class act who tends the details. Whatever your desire, Trento aims to please, offering lunch, dinner, weekend brunch, happy hour, 'to go' service, kids menu, live music, wine tastings, theme dinners, plus private dining rooms for meetings and special events. The food is rarely boring. Chefs Alex Kahn and Andreas Exarhos breathe new life into traditional Italian dishes, reflecting a youthful

exuberance. For starters, steamed PEI mussels are dressed with an unexpected — and addictive — mint pesto. Arugula salad is studded with fennel, almonds, orange slices, sun-dried tomatoes and olive ricotta. The antipasti plate is an enticing contrast of colors and textures. And don’t miss the chicken liver pâté, a decadently rich spread that’s worth the trip alone. Trento boasts an authentic Italian pizza oven and its pies range from a traditional Margherita to an unusual sweet/savory pie topped with roasted brussels sprouts, bacon, creamy goat cheese, caramelized onions and mostarda. Results can be mixed: one night the crust was light and crispy and on another it was dense and chewy. Pastas boast surprising additions like Swiss chard tossed with rigatoni Bolognese and roasted pork, peas and oyster mushrooms served with cheese ravioli. The Linguine alle Vongole was delicious, yet unlike any I’d had before. For heartier fare, Trento offers a half-dozen Italian-inspired beef, veal, pork, chicken and seafood entrees. The grilled salmon was fresh and moist, perched atop braised red cabbage, leeks and watercress in a tasty broth. For dessert, the seasonal rhubarb panna cotta looked lovely but lacked flavor. The heartbeat of Trento is its lively lounge anchored by a U-shaped bar surrounded with bistro tables and cozy booths. Live music is featured several nights a week. The wine list is a fantastic selection of interesting Italian varietals, such as a white 2010 Pecorino from Abbruzzo, plus an impressive offering of domestic and imported choices. Specialty cocktails like Mexican margaritas, Cuban mojitos and Brazilian caipiroskas are plenty tasty, but it’s the classic Italian frozen Bellini that will send you sailing off to Venice or Westlake or wherever you find your dolce vita. k. SpezIA


YOU’RE INVITED

LUNCHEON PRESENTED BY H-E-B

5.14.2012 Sponsored by The Rusty Tally Group / UBS, Bobbi Topfer Tribeza, Bark 'N Purr Pet Center, and Development 2000

Join event chair, Mary Herr Tally along with co-chairs Bobbi Topfer, Armando Zambrano and Alex Winkelman in celebrating Emancipet's 13 years of service to the community. M O N D AY

M AY

14

FOUR

11:30

HOTEL

1:00

SEASONS

TO

F O R T I C KE TS & I NF O RM AT I ON: EM AIL I NFO @ EM ANCIPE T.ORG

Emancipet works everyday to make low-cost spay/neuter and basic preventative wellness care affordable and accessible to all families and their precious pet companions.

(FROM LEFT TO RIGHT) JACK TALLY, LILY TOPFER, ZOE ZAMBRANO, JONAS WINKELMAN


dining guide American 1886 caFé and bakeRy

604 Brazos St. (512) 391 7066 Classic Texas el¬egance with a menu that touts breakfast, lunch, dinner and late-night dining. 24 dineR

600 N. lamar Blvd. (512) 472 5400 Chef-inspired comfort food all day and night. 219 west

612 W. 6th St. (512) 474 2194 American tapas, mini burgers and cocktails — one of the most beloved happy hours in the city 34th stReet caFé

1005 W. 34th St. (512) 371 3400

Cuisine carefully prepared with fresh ingredients and a warm, homegrown Austin feel. bLue staR caFeteRia

4800 Burnet Rd. (512) 454 7827

Local and seasonal menu with an old-fashioned dessert case. chez zee caFé and bakeRy

5406 Balcones Dr. (512) 454 2666 Colorful decor and a huge menu with nice salads and lunchtime pizzas.

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MAy 2012

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daiLy GRiLL

retailer and restaurant. The wine list boasts more than 250 by the bottle.

the Texas Kobe beef sliders and signature thincrust pizzas.

With the varied menu and the multiple television screens, the Daily Grill is sure to please all sports fans.

hickoRy stReet

Jack aLLen’s kitchen

Classic comfort food in the heart of downtown Austin. Check out the newly-redesigned menu.

Country favorites but with a twist from Chef Jack Gilmore.

Delicious and healthy fare from the organic garden out back since 1988.

hopdoddy buRGeR baR

419 W. 2nd St. (512) 474 lEAF

Finn & poRteR

The perfect union of burgers and beer: enjoy fresh ingredients like Black Angus beef and hand-cut fries.

11506 Century oaks Ter. Ste. 100 (512) 836 4200

eastside caFé

2113 Manor Rd. (512) 476 5858

500 E. 4th St. (512) 493 4900

Dazzles with steaks, chops, seafood, and sushi. FRank

407 Colorado St. (512) 494 6916 Irresistible hot dogs made from artisan sausages like the Jackalope with local antelope, rabbit, and pork. GaLaxy caFé

800 Congress Ave. (512) 477 8968

1400 S. Congress Ave. (512) 243 7505

hudson’s on the bend

3509 RR 620 N. (512) 266 1369 Best handling of wild game in town—delicious quail salad, rattlesnake cakes and grilled venison chops with lobster tail.

9911 Brodie ln., Ste. 750 (512) 233 6000 1000 West lynn St. (512) 478 3434 4616 Triangle Ave. (512) 323 9494

hyde paRk baR and GRiLL

A contemporary café serving all-day lunch, an exquisite dinner selection and gluten-free menu.

A neighborhood scene with fine food and a cool, central bar.

4206 Duval St. (512) 458 3168 4521 West Gate Blvd. (512) 899 2700

the GRove wine baR

J. bLack’s FeeL Good LounGe

Lively Westlake wine bar,

Pub fare at its best. Try

6317 Bee Cave Rd. (512) 327 8822

710 W. 6th St. (512) 433 6954

7720 Hwy. 71 W. (512) 852 8558

LeaF

Countless variations on wonderfully fresh, madeto-order salads with homemade dressings. Lucy’s FRied chicken

2218 College Ave. (512) 297 2423 Enjoy classic fried chicken with some surprising twists by Chef James Holmes. max’s wine dive

207 San Jacinto Blvd. (512) 904 0105 Upscale dining meats comfort food. Their motto? “Champagne and Fried Chicken. Why the Hell Not?” moonshine

303 Red River St. (512) 236 9599 Happy hour specials and fun appetizers, like corn dog shrimp, served on a stick with blueberry honey mus¬tard.

paGGi house

the woodLand

Eclectic fine dining in an inviting setting.

Modern comfort food, made fresh daily in a cozy space. Bottles of wine are half price on Sunday and Monday nights.

200 lee Barton Dr. (512) 473 3700

paRkside

301 E. 6th St. (512) 474 9898 Extensive raw bar and carefully balanced flavors. Try the braised short rib. RoaRinG FoRk

701 Congress Ave. (512) 583 0000 10850 Stonelake Blvd. (512) 342 2700 The western bistro and “saloon” brings in the crowds for one of the best happy hour deals in town. staR seeds caFé

3101 N. I-35 (512) 478 7107

This cosmic favorite serves tasty breakfast items to Austin’s night owls. uRban an ameRican GRiLL

11301 Domain Dr. (512) 490 1511

1716 S. Congress Ave. (512) 441 6800

Asian baR chi sushi

206 Colorado St. (512) 382 5557 An upscale, fanciful sushi bar with a killer seven-day happy hour menu. chinatown

3407 Greystone Dr. (512) 343 9307 107 W. 5th St. (512) 637 8888 Some of the best traditional Chinese in town. Fast service in the dining room. the cLay pit

1601 Guadalupe St. (512) 322 5131

Urban offers classic comfort food in a modern, sophisti¬cated atmosphere.

Zip in for a buffet-style lunch or settle in for a long dinner of contem¬porary Indian cuisine.

the RanGe GoLF centeR & spoRts baR

dRaGon Gate by phoenix

A unique fine dining experience, coupled with cutting-edge, high-definition golf simulators.

Extensive menu filled with both Japanese offerings and Chinese favorites.

10910 Domain Dr.

3801 N. Capital of Tx Hwy. (512) 732 7278


dining

R e s tau R a n t G u i d e

east side kinG

1016 E. 6th St. 1618 E. 6th St. 1700 E. 6th St. (512) 422 5884

Chefs Paul Qui, Moto Utsonomaya and Ek Timrek offer out-of-thisworld pan-Asian food from three trailers. eLizabeth stReet caFé

1501 S. 1st St. (512) 291 2881

kona GRiLL

11410 Century oaks Ter. Ste. 144 (512) 835 5900 The Asian-inspired cuisine, ranging from sushi to steak, draws a swinging singles scene. koRea house RestauRant & sushi baR

2700 W. Anderson ln., Ste. 501 (512) 458 2477

A colorful, charming spot on South First. French takes on Vietnamese classics.

Grab a four-top and cook your own bulgogi in the middle of the table.

G’RaJ mahaL

621 E. 7th St. (512) 275 0852

91 Red River St. (512) 480 2255 With a cozy covered patio, G’Raj Mahal offers a surprising amount of ambiance for a food trailer. impeRia

310 Colorado St. (512) 472 6770 A Warehouse District highlight. Delectable Peking Duck and memorable specialty cock¬tails. kenichi

419 Colorado St. (512) 320 8883 Popular downtown spot for some of the best sushi in town. kome

4917 Airport Blvd. (512) 712 5700 More than just sushi, this eatery serves up Japanese comfort food, including delicious, homemade ramen.

koRiente

Healthy, tasty Korean options like bulgogi and curry dishes all served up by the friendly staff. maiko

311 W. 6th St. (512) 236 9888 Maiko offers both classic sushi choices and original creations like misomarinat¬ed black cod. mikado

9033 Research Blvd. (512) 833 8188 Enjoy robata (Japanese tapas) grilled before you, and lovely entrees of sea bass and duckling all day long. mizu pRime steak & sushi

3001 RR. 620 S. (512) 263 2801

A blend of both traditional and contemporary takes on Japanese cuisine. musashino

3407 Greystone Dr. (512) 795 8593 The locally famed

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Musashino is where diehard sushi lov¬ers flock when they crave near perfection. piRanha kiLLeR sushi

207 San Jacinto Blvd. (512) 473 8775 An oasis of calm and cool in the Warehouse District. Mod¬ern sushi with fresh dishes and fun drinks. satay

3202 W. Anderson ln. (512) 467 6731 Noodles, curry, stir fry, dumplings. Try the Miang Khum. suzi’s china GRiLL & sushi baR

7858 Shoal Creek Blvd. (512) 302 4600 Flavorful dishes like eggplant with garlic sauce or shrimp with lemongrass. suzi’s china kitchen

1152 S. lamar Blvd. (512) 441 8400 A wide selection of traditional and modern dishes, from a classic Sesame Chicken to Beef Mimosa. thai passion

620 Congress Ave. (512) 472 1244 Menu speaks mostly of Northeastern Thailand, mod¬erately priced. tomodachi sushi

4101 W. Parmer ln. (512) 821 9472 Innovative Japanese cuisine with spunk. Signature rolls include “Who’s Your Daddy?” and “Ex- Girlfriend.”

t & s seaFood

10014 N. lamar Blvd. (512) 339 8434 From the Dim Sum menu: deli¬cate steamed shrimp dumplings, deepfried egg rolls and more! uchi

801 S. lamar Blvd. (512) 916 4808 James Beard Winner Chef Tyson Cole has created an inventive menu that puts Uchi foremost among sushi spots in Austin uchiko

4200 N. lamar Blvd., #140 (512) 916 4808 The sensational sister creation of Uchi, helped by Top Chef Paul Qui. Try the bacon tataki! whip in maRket & paRLouR caFe

1950 S. I-35 (512) 442 5337

This funky minimartcafé satisfies keeps Austin weird with offbeat décor, copious beer and cheap, tasty food.

Barbecue bLue Ribbon baRbecue

120 E. 4th St. (512) 369 3119

Three generations of Texas BBQ. Don’t leave without trying the banana pudding! county Line

5204 FM 2222 (512) 346 3664 6500 W. Bee Cave Rd. (512) 327 1742 A busy, casual spot on the way to the lake. The

barbe¬cue turkey is tender, and the beans are out of this world. FRankLin baRbecue

3412 N. I-35 (512) 653 1187

Named the Best BBQ in America by Bon Appetit, Franklin serves up Meyer’s all natu¬ral angus brisket. iRon woRks bbQ

100 Red River St. (512) 478 4855

No frills: grab your beer from the ice bucket and get ready for some traditional dripping ribs.

and local craft brew in a nostalgic, 50s-inspired atmosphere. What more can you ask for? stubb’s bbQ

801 Red River St. (512) 480 8341 Known for its music scene as much as its barbecue, which is traditional and satisfying.

Continental annies caFé & baR

319 Congress Ave. (512) 472 1884

1502 S. 1st St. (512) 229 7366

New American cuisine inspired by modern European brasseries.

BBQ legend John Mueller returns to Austin with some of Texas’ finest, nofrills barbecue.

apothecaRy caFé & wine baR

JmueLLeR bbQ

LambeRts

401 W. 2nd St. (512) 494 1500 Not your standard BBQ fare, meats are given an Austin twist, like the ribeye glazed with brown sugar and mustard. Ruby’s bbQ

512 W. 29th St. (512) 477 2529 Long-time campus-area staple. the saLt Lick

18001 FM 1826 (512) 858 4959

Serves up some of the best ribs, brisket, and sausage in the state. stiLes switch bbQ & bRew

6610 N. lamar Blvd. (512) 380 9199 Slow-smoked classic BBQ

4800 Burnet Rd. (512) 371 1600 Dark wood paneling and an extensive wine and coffee list make Apothecary the perfect place to unwind. austin cake baLL kitchen & baR

3401 Esperanza Crossing (512) 215 3633 Austin’s favorite cake balls have a brick-and-mortar home, complete with a European-inspired menu. bacon

900 W. 10th St. (512) 322 9777 At Bacon, the eponymous ingredient is more than a breakfast side dish: it’s the star of the show.


baRLey swine

conGRess

Fabi + Rosi

Comfort food doesn’t get much better than the pork- and beercentric gastropub by Chef Bryce Gilmore.

Flavorful dishes with global inspiration, including bone marrow brulee and hamachi sashimi.

A husband and wife team cook up European style dishes like pork schnitzel and paella..

bess bistRo on pecan

contiGo

2024 S. lamar Blvd. (512) 394 8150

500 W. 6th St. (512) 477 2377 A French bistro with a southern Cajun flair. Blue Dahlia Bistro 1115 E. 11th St. (512) 542 9542 A European-style bistro on Austin’s eastside. bLack staR co-op pub & bReweRy

7020 Easy Wind Dr. (512) 452 2337 Beer and Texas pub fare in a co-operative community environment bRaise

2121 E. 6th St. (512) 478 8700 As befits its name, Braise offers dishes cooked to perfection and bursting with flavor. caFe maLta

3421 W. William Cannon Dr. (512) 853 9584 Mediterranean style cooking with a Texas sense of place. the caRiLLon

1900 University Ave. (512) 404 3655 A fine dining spot, featuring New American cuisine with a sophisticated twist.

200 Congress Ave. (512) 827 2760

2027 Anchor ln. (512) 614 2260 Taking cues from Contigo Ranch, the restaurant offers fresh, quality bar food. cRú wine baR

11410 Century oaks Ter. Ste. 104 (512) 339 9463 238 W. 2nd St. (512) 472 9463

509 Hearn St. (512) 236 0642

Fino RestauRant patio & baR

2905 San Gabriel St. (512) 474 2905 Mediterranean bites and plates for sharing. Dine al fresco on the lovely patio. FLip happy cRepes

400 Josephine St. (512) 552 9034

Elegant small plates with over 300 wine selections, perfect for pairing.

Housed in a charming vintage trailer, this spot off Barton Springs Road delivers warm crepes to a hungry crowd.

dRiskiLL GRiLL

FoReiGn & domestic

A dark intimate feel and rich American culinary experience.

Husband and wife duo, Ned and Jodi Elliott, whip up innovative cuisine with a nose-totail approach.

604 Brazos St. (512) 391 7162

east side show Room

1100 E. 6th St. (512) 467 4280 Delicious vintage cocktails in an eccentric space. Enjoy local art, music and cuisine by Sonya Cote. easy tiGeR

709 E. 6th St. (512) 614 4972 Delicious bake shop upstairs and beer garden downstairs. Enjoy the signature housemade sausages.

306 E. 53rd St. (512) 459 1010

GReen pastuRes RestauRant

811 W. live oak St. (512) 444 4747 An Austin ancestral estate open for lunch, dinner, and serving a Sunday brunch buffet.


dining

R e s tau R a n t G u i d e

haddinGton’s

601 W. 6th St. (512) 992 0204

This gastropub draws from across the Atlantic, offering British-inspired cuisine with a rustic American flare. hiLLside FaRmecy

1209 E. 11th St. (512) 628 0168 Part grocery store, part casual eatery, Hillside Farmecy is located in a beautifully restored 50s pharmacy. JaspeR’s GouRmet backyaRd cuisine

11506 Century oaks Ter. Ste. 128 (512) 834 4111 Cuisine inspired by the world and served in a Zen-like interior. JeFFRey’s

1204 W. lynn St. (512) 477 5584 A New American cuisine pioneer in Clarksville since 1975. muLbeRRy

360 Nueces St. (512) 320 0297 The coziest of wine bars — try the burger with Gruyère, pancetta and a fried egg. oLivia

2043 S. lamar Blvd. (512) 804 2700 Mag¬nificent, modern interior by Michael Hsu. Committed to featuring all locally produced foods. second

200 Congress Ave. (512) 827 2750 Another venture from

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Chef David Bull, Second offers a casual bistro experience. soLeiL

6550 Comanche Trl. (512) 266 0600 Classic Mediterranean fare, overlooking Lake Travis the steepinG Room

11410 Century oaks Ter. Ste. 112 (512) 977 8337 For tea and a sweet treat or a fresh healthy lunch, the Steeping Room is the perfect place to relax after shopping at the Domain. uncoRked tastinG Room and wine baR

900 E. 7th St. (512) 524 2809

Build your own wine flights or choose from the carefully edited list from around the world. wink

1014 N. lamar Bvd. (512) 482 8868 The food is fantastic, and por¬tions are meant for tasting, not gobbling. Fresh, local ingredients abound.

French aRtisan bistRo

900 RR. 620 S. (512) 263 8728

A classic French bistro, wine bar and bakery shop. chez nous

510 Neches St. (512) 473 2413 Favorites include veal sweet¬breads and salad Lyonnaise. Start with an assiette de charcuterie.

hopFieLds

the backspace

Hearty Italian fare with big, bold flavor.

saGRa

A gastropub with French inclinations.

Exquisite pizzas hot out of the wood-fired brick oven straight from Naples and classic antipasti.

La tRaviata

Wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas are a standout. Cozy atmo¬sphere. Tuesdays are all-you-caneat mussels for $12.

3110 Guadalupe St. (512) 537 0467

Justine’s bRasseRie

4710 E. 5th St. (512) 385 2900 With its French bistro fare, impressive cocktails and charming décor, Justine’s has Austin looking east.

507 San Jacinto Blvd. (512) 474 9899

botticeLLi’s

1321 S. Congress Ave. (512) 916 1315

314 Congress Ave. (512) 479 8131 A long-loved Austin spot for its fine Italian fare. Perfect spaghetti carbonara.

An inviting trattoria with warm Tuscan colors. Small bar up front and cozy booths in back.

maGGiano’s LittLe itaLy

LenoiR

canoLi Joe’s

French fare with a global outlook, drawing from the cuisines of India, North Africa and more.

Take a stroll through the winding villagio and sample a variety of Italian favorites — a gourmet feast!

Family-style dining and the classic Italian cuisine — perfect loca¬tion for large groups.

1807 S. 1st St. (512) 215 9778

péché

208 W. 4th St. (512) 494 4011 Darling menu of simple French dishes. Duck salad is a standout. Absinthe bar.

Italian 360 uno tRattoRia & wine baR

3801 N. Capital of TX. Hwy. (512) 327 4448 Great espresso bar and a mostly Italian wine list complete with an outdoor patio for sipping. asti tRattoRia

408 E. 43rd St. (512) 451 1218

The chic, little Hyde Park trattoria offers delicious Italian cuisine, like saffron risotto with seafood.

4715 Hwy. 290 W. (512) 892 4444

caRmeLo’s RestauRant

504 E. 5th St. (512) 477 7497

This romantic 19thcentury “railroad house” is perfect for canoodling over cannoli. Don’t miss the old-school pastry cart. cipoLLina

1213 W. lynn St. (512) 477 5211 Mediterranean fare with an Italian accent. Crispy wood-fired pizzas remain the head¬liner,. enoteca

1610 S. Congress Ave. (512) 441 7672 Superb bistro menu with panini, salad, pasta and pizza and handmade pastries. Gusto itaLian kitchen & wine baR

4800 Burnet Rd. (512) 458 1100

10910 Domain Dr. Ste. 100 (512) 501 7870

mandoLa’s itaLian maRket

4700 W. Guadalupe St. (512) 419 9700 Casual Italian fare and a well-stocked gour¬met grocery, alongside a deli, bakery and espresso and gelato bar. noRth

11506 Century oaks Ter., Ste. 124 (512) 339 4440 Guests enjoy modern Italian cuisine in a sleek interior at this Domain standout. oLive & June

3411 Glenview Ave. (512) 467 9898 South Italian cuisine, inspired by Chef Shawn Cirkiel’s family recipes Quatto Gatti RistoRante

908 Congress Ave. (512) 476 3131

An array of mouthwatering Italian dishes, from four-cheese pizza to oven roasted rack of lamb.

1610 San Antonio St. (512) 535 5988

siena RistoRante toscana

6203 Capital of Tx. Hwy. (512) 349 7667 Set in a Tuscan-style villa, Siena captures the essence of its namesake region. taveRna

258 W. 2nd St. (512) 477 1001 Taverna’s menu boasts sophisticated salads, pastas, pizzas and trademark risottos. tRattoRia Lisina

13308 FM 150 W. Driftwood, TX. (512) 894 3111 Nestled in the Mandola Estate Winery in Driftwood. Expect hearty portions of rustic Italian food. tRento

3600 N. Capital of Texas Hwy. (512) 328 7555 This Westlake restaurant offers fresh, classic fare with a modern twist vespaio

1610 S. Congress Ave. (512) 441 6100 Daily rotating menus offer the best of the season and the freshest from Vespaio’s bountiful garden.


Latin American buenos aiRes caFé

1201 E. 6th St. (512) 382 1189 13500 Galleria Cir. Ste. 120 (512) 441 9000 Argentinean specialties like meat sandwiches on baguettes, empanadas and tasty pastries. chanGos taQueRia

3023 Guadalupe St. (512) 480 8226

Manuel’s casual culinary sibling, Changos offers fresh Tex-Mex on the go. estâncía chuRRascaRia

10000 Research Blvd. (512) 345 5600 Experience the flavors of Southern Brazil with savory meats sliced from skewer to plate FoGo de chao

309 E. 3rd St. (512) 472 0220

Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse — perfect for adventurous meat lovers! sao pauLo’s

2809 San Jacinto (512) 473 9988 Award-winning restaurant inspired by regions of Brazil plus local Tex-Mex favorites. zocaLo caFe

1110 W. lynn St. (512) 472 8226 A break from typical Tex-Mex with the refreshingly light fare at this slice of Mexico City

Lunch Spots baGuette et chocoLat

12101 Bee Cave Rd. (512) 263 8388 Authentic French bakery and fine pastry in Austin! Delicious Nutella Crepes and Croissants.

La boite caFé

1700 S. lamar Blvd. 1006 Congress Ave. (512) 377 6198 French bakery staples, from brioche and croissants to pain au lait. nobLe piG

11815 620 N. (512) 382 6248

626 N. lamar Blvd. (512) 708 8800

Gourmet sandwiches with a commitment to scratch cooking and sustainable ingredients.

This breakfast and lunchtime favorite serves up organic and local fare.

waLton’s Fancy and stapLe

the counteR caFé

Food! Food! 2727 Exposition Blvd. (512) 474 8515 Menu rotates weekly and features classic sandwiches and entrees, from Baked Ziti to Beef Tenderloin. Foodheads

616 W. 34th St. (512) 420 8400 Fresh, inspired sandwiches, soups and salads in a charming, refashioned cottage. FRicano’s deLi 2405 Nueces St. (512) 482 3322 Award-winning sandwiches made with fresh meats and locallybaked bread. Try the Italian Club. Jo’s coFFee

242 W. 2nd St. (512) 469 9003 1300 S. Congress Ave. (512) 444 3800 An Austin institution serving up fresh sandwiches and an extensive coffee menu

609 W. 6th St. (512) 542 3380

Part deli, bakery, café and flower shop. Don’t miss the Honey-Almond Bee Cake.

Mexican

coRazon at castLe hiLL

eL chiLito

by the kitchen of Chef Garrido’s grandmother.

Little bro to El Chile, El Chilito offers a pareddown menu of made-toorder items.

GLoRia’s

2225 Manor Rd. (512) 382 3797

1101 W. 5th St. (512) 476 0728

Inspired by kitchens across Central Mexico. cuRRa’s GRiLL

614 E. oltorf St. (512) 444 0012

eL soL y La Luna

Delicious interior Mexican food in a casual environment. eL aLma

1025 Barton Springs Rd. (512) 609 8923 Chef-driven, authentic Mexican cuisine. eL chiLe caFé y cantina

1809 Manor Rd. (512) 457 9900

600 E. 6th St. (512) 444 7770

Quintessential Austin. Great migas and fresh juices. Fonda san miGueL

2330 W. N. loop Blvd. (512) 459 4121 An Austin institution for over 30 years, Delicious interior Mexican menu. GaRRido’s

An intersection of Tex-Mex and interior Mexican cuisine.

360 Nueces St. (512) 320 8226 A flavorful modern Mexican menu inspired

3309 Esperanza Crossing, Ste. 100 (512) 833 6400 Perfect for date night, Gloria’s serves upscale Mexican cuisine and offers a spacious patio. GüeRo’s taco baR

1412 S. Congress Ave. (512) 447 7688 No frills tacos. Try the Queso Flameado with chorizo and jalapeños. La condesa

400-A W. 2nd St. (512) 499 0300 Delectable cocktails and tasty tacos inspired by the hip and bohemian Condesa ‘hood in Mexico City.

azuL teQuiLa

4211 S. lamar Blvd. (512) 416 9667 An ex¬quisite variety of South Central Mexican fare, including the famous Chile Rellano en Crema. cantina LaRedo

201 W. 3rd St. (512) 542 9670

Authentic Mexican food. For the guacamole starter, we licked the bowl clean. chuy’s

1728 Barton Springs Rd. (512) 474 4452 10520 N. lamar Blvd. (512) 836 3218 4301 William Cannon Dr. (512) 899 2489 Often a long wait for this beloved, packed cantina. The pillowy, fried flautas are the best in town.

OUR BIRDS ARE FED NON-GMO, USDA CERTIFIED ORGANIC FEED AND NO HERBICIDES, PESTICIDES,

HORMONES OR ANTIBIOTICS ARE USED EVER. WWW.MAUDIES.COM


dining

R e s tau R a n t G u i d e

maudie’s caFe

maudies.com

Five locations delivering solid Tex-Mex in a fun, laid-back atmosphere. manueL’s

310 Congress Ave. (512) 472 7555 10201 Jollyville Rd. (512) 345 1042 Not your usual Tex-Mex. The chile relleno bursts with shredded pork and walnut cream sauce. maRia maRia

415 Colorado St. (512) 687 6800 The brainchild of Carlos Santana, where music reigns. Mexican dishes with a modern twist.

poLvo’s

Great selection of specialty riffs on Tex-Mex tacos. Cool off with a homemade agua fresca.

2004 S. 1st St. (512) 441 5446 Between the salsa bar, patio seating, and delicious mar¬garitas, this is one of Austin’s beloved Tex-Mex icons.

takoba

1411 E. 7th St. (512) 628 4466 Bold, authentic flavors with ingredients imported straight from Mexico.

saGo modeRn mexican

4600 W. Guadalupe St. (512) 452 0300

vivo

Sago’s interiors are sleek and modern but also warm and inviting. The salsas, made each morning with fresh produce, are some of the best in town.

2015 Manor Rd. (512) 482 0300 Fresh plates with a lighter hand.

Seafood

santa Rita tex-mex cantina

caFé Josie

2613 S. lamar Blvd. (512) 462 9333

1206 W. 38th St. (512) 419 7482 5900 W. Slaughter ln. Ste. 550 (512) 288 5100

After 55 years, this Austin classic is still going strong. Start with the Bob Armstrong Dip.

Not the typical Tex-Mex. Bright interiors, attentive service, and solid menu offerings.

nuevo León

tacodeLi

matt’s eL Rancho

1501 E. 6th St. (512) 479 0097

Family-run institution on the East Side with a loyal follow¬ing.

12001 Burnet Rd. (512) 339 1700 4200 N. lamar Blvd. (512) 419 1900 1500 Spyglass Dr. (512) 732 0303

1200-B W. 6th St. (513) 322 9226 Tropic-inspired seafood dishes in a vibrant, colorful interior. eddie v’s pRime seaFood

9400 Arboretum Blvd. (512) 342 2642 301 E. 5th St. (512) 472 1860 Though known for fresh seafood, Eddie V’s prime steaks are some of the best in town.

Austin Organic Tan is located at Lather Salon and delivers gorgeous, natural and long-lasting tans! tanning products contain antiaging ingredients such as Vitamin C, Cranberry Seed Extract, Walnut Shell Extract, Sea Kelp and more.

peRLa’s

1400 S. Congress Ave. (512) 291 7300 Great selection of oysters, clever cocktails, and one of the freshest options for seafood in town. QuaLity seaFood

5621 Airport Blvd. (512) 454 5828

Austin’s premier retail seafood market, offering the freshest catch. tRuLuck’s

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Ruth’s chRis steakhouse

z’teJas GRiLL

The USDA Prime Steaks seared to perfection and topped with fresh butter are the ultimate.

1110 W. 6th St. (512) 478 5355 9400-A Arboretum Blvd. (512) 346 3506 Austinites wait hours to get into either the funkier downtown locale or the northern spot.

Steak

107 W. 6th St. (512) 477 7884

suLLivan’s steakhouse

300 Colorado St. (512) 495 6504 Steak and potatoes. Music at the Ringside.

400 Colorado St. (512) 482 9000 10225 Research Blvd. (512) 794 8300

iii FoRks

98 San Jacinto Blvd. (512) 685 8300

Seafood and steak lovers alike will love the weekly-rotating chefinspired menu.

Traditional steakhouse menu with seafood choices and lob¬ster tails.

Overlooking Lady Bird Lake in the Four Seasons Hotel — clever dishes, with prime steak and seafood offerings.

Southwestern Ranch 616

616 Nueces St. (512) 479 7616 Chef Kevin Williamson deliv¬ers on fresh seafood with a lively atmosphere. Red’s poRch

3508 S. lamar Blvd (512) 440 7337 Unique Tex-Mex, Cajun and southwestern cuisine on a sprawling, scenic porch. south conGRess caFe

1600 S. Congress Ave. (512) 447 3905 This SoCo staple draws quite a weekend crowd with its classic brunch fare. tacos and teQuiLa

830 W. 3rd St., Ste. 1134 Austin, TX 78701 (512) 461 8172 www.austinorganictan.com

serving up a taste of the Southwest in this modern, industrial space.

507 Pressler St. (512) 436 8226

Chef Alma Alcocer is

111 lavaca St. (512) 474 1776

austin Land & cattLe co.

1205 N. lamar Blvd. (512) 472 1813 This Austin favorite boasts an impressive wine list to pair with sophisticated entress. FLeminG’s pRime steakhouse & wine baR

320 E. 2nd St. (512) 457 1500 11600 Century oaks Ter. Ste. 140 (512) 835 9463

tRio

Vegetarian casa de Luz

1701 Toomey Rd. (512) 476 2535 Take yoga or tai chi classes before or after dining at this macrobiotic joint. daiLy Juice

4500 Duval St. (512) 380 9046 Pop by this fresh juice and smoothie stand after a run or before a swim.

Excellent food, stellar wines, pleasant atmosphere and polished staff.

motheR’s caFe & GaRden

peRRy’s steakhouse & GRiLLe

Everything beyond the garden variety, from veggie burgers to lasagna.

114 W. 7th St. Ste. 110 (512) 474 6300 Start with the escargot or a lump crab cake. The main event, the steaks, could not be better.

4215 Duval St. (512) 451 3994

To submit a restaurant for inclusion in the TRIBEZA dining guide, or to submit corrections, please contact us by email at editorial@ tribeza.com.


our little secret

Chef Ned W Elliott’s asia café

Asia café 8650 Spicewood Springs rd. #115 (512) 331 5788

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hen I first moved to Austin in May of 2009, I knew nothing about the restaurants here, and I had to keep my eyes open for places that served the foods I loved. One of my favorite things to eat is chicken feet, and I searched all over Austin to find them but always came up empty-handed. However, that fall, while I was helping to open 24 Diner, I met Britt Markle, who was a like-minded eater and quickly became a friend. Britt introduced me to Asia Café, and I have been going there at least twice a month ever since. Tucked in the back of a nondescript strip mall at Spicewood Springs and Highway 183, the restaurant is far north for a lot of people, but it’s definitely worth the trip. Aside from serving excellent versions of many of my

favorite dishes — chicken feet, pork elbow, spicy whole fish and beef with pork blood sauce — there is just something amazing going on in the kitchen here: what they do is authentic — not just for the American palate —and the food is so carefully crafted that you can feel the love and care on every plate, from the spicy fish to the ma po tofu. It’s family-run and operated, and they love what they do. you can just see it, smell it and taste it. The one big thing about Asia Café is that there is no pretense. I love putting on a threepiece suit to dine out about once a year, but with Asia Café, you can go whenever you want, however you are. Even the way that the restaurant is set up is awesome! you order at the counter — there are menus you can look through while you’re waiting, but there are usually great specials on the board as well — before grabbing hot tea and a seat. you’ll usually find many families and friends eating together, sharing dumplings and crispy duck and mustard greens. With so many options on the menu, it’s hard to order just one or two things — you’ll want to try a little bit of everything. It’s definitely a good idea to take some friends and share plates, and with Asia Café’s reasonable prices, it’s not a problem to order a couple of dishes each. From there, you just sit back and take in the sights, smells and sounds until your number is called. Head back to the counter and you’ll find plates of steaming, delicious food and bowls of rice. Everything is served so hot and fresh, you may end up heading back to the counter for round two. What makes the whole experience even better is that Asia Café is ByOB, so you can bring in your favorite beer or wines to pair with your meal. From my very first experience at Asia Café to my most recent visit there, every meal has been inspired, wonderful and satisfying in every way possible. ned eLLIott Ned Elliott is the Executive Chef and Owner of Foreign & Domestic at 306 East 53rd Street. P H oTo G R A P H y By A N N I E R Ay


Shown: The newly expanded Sintesi shelving system, Emma Gardner rug and Cell side table.

Your Amulet is Waiting P RECIO U S M ETAL A RT At the Hill Country Galleria

At the Oasis

512•372•8888

512•582•0183

zoltandavid.com © 2011 Patent #6594901

115 West 8th Street Austin 512.480.0436 scottcooner.com


A Au ussttiin nA Arrttss ++ c cu ult ltu urree

t h e C U I SI N e I S S U e

T HE

M AY 2012 | n o . 13 0

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Tribeza May 2012