A NOTE ON CHILES Many of these recipes include suggested amounts of chile. But chiles vary, and not everyone likes chiles equally hot! Chile seeds and inner pith contain most of the chemical capsaicin, which causes the characteristic burn, so you can remove and discard them to tame the final result. If you are at all in doubt, start with half the suggested amount, then taste, and gradually increase the chile. You can also taste a very tiny amount of chile before you add it, or sometimes a quick whiff will give you a sense of its potency. This is much easier than trying to cool down a
dish that’s already on fire. And die-hards can always add more chile at the table if they wish. Best remedies for a chile overdose: a mouthful of a dairy product, lettuce, or bland food. Water won’t do much, nor will ice. In fact, the use of “hot” or “heat” (as in temperature) to describe the effect of chile is common but inaccurate. The real sensation of capsaicin is more like a jellyfish or chemical sting, or a mild but persistent electric shock. For more information on handling chiles, see the Chile section on page 31.
COMMON VARIETIES Anaheim • Also known as the California green chile, this
Jalapeño • Picked green and served fresh or pickled, the
long shiny green chile is among the mildest and sweetest of the commonly used varieties.
jalapeño is probably the most widely available chile in the United States. Somewhat mild on the heat scale when green, as it ripens to red, the heat intensifies. Ripened and smoked, it becomes the chipotle.
Ancho • A dried poblano, the ancho has a smoky sweet flavor. It is among the most widely used chiles in Mexico.
Chile de árbol • A skinny, thin-fleshed, red chile, the dried árbol brings a sharp, hot-pepper essence to any dish it touches. It is commonly used to put the burn in hot sauce.
Chiltepín • A wild, round, extremely hot red or green pepper about the size of a small pea, this is the only chile native to the United States. A domesticated variety is called chile pequín.
Chipotle • A dried, smoked jalapeño, the chipotle has intense heat. Its smoky flavor infuses any food with which it is prepared.
Habanero • A truly beautiful chile, the habanero ripens from green to yellow to brilliant orange. Habaneros are intensely hot.
2 • A NOTE ON CHILES
New Mexico (also known as Hatch or Chimayo, depending on where they’re grown) • A large chile, it resembles the Anaheim but can be hotter. They can be used green or ripened to red, dried, and hung in strands or ristras.
Pasilla (Negro) • The dried pasilla, often called chile negro, offers a sharp bite. A large pepper, almost black in color, it can be used fresh for almost anything from stuffing to frying whole.
Poblano • A large, triangular chile, the poblano is a sweet, thin-skinned variety with pleasant heat. Fresh, it is commonly served stuffed; dried, it becomes the ancho.
Serrano • A small, fresh chile with smooth skin, the serrano’s heat level ranges from hot to absolute fire.