Magnificent sea views from the swimming pool at the luxurious Amankila resort.
the best spotting time is during the dry season, from July through October. The lack of rainfall at this time of year leads to an upwelling of cold water from the depths. Water temperatures drop from the typical 28 degrees to 20 degrees or lower, and these slow-moving giants float towards the surface with the chilly water. “The majority of our business is from that season,” says Jonathan Cross, one of the owners of the dive shop, Blue Season Bali. It’s a mixed blessing but a strong attraction. “If one season they stopped coming, you’d have to change your marketing.” With a mola mola sitting less than a meter from your face, it is easy to see why so many people want to spot this odd 106
species firsthand. Their huge circular bodies are broken only by small eyes and a beak-like mouth opened into a permanent “O” shape, as if they spend their days in mild surprise. Two long fins, one curving up from its back and one from its belly, beat slowly back and forth like wings. In season, everyone is after a look at the mola molas, and overexcited divers can easily scare them off if they are not careful. “Last year, they were much less predictable than before because there are more divers,” one dive guide laments. Crystal Bay, an inlet on the island of Nusa Penida, the best location for regular encounters with mola molas, has been buzzing with 25 dive boats at a time in the dry season. Divers