M Y T R AV E L LO G
W
henever I have the chance, I like to leave Taipei metropolis and head into the mountains. To me, this is where Taiwan’s true charms exist. One spot that has left an especially strong impression on me is Wulu Gorge in Taitung County’s Haiduan Township. This is a little-known scenic area located along the Southern Cross-Island Highway, about 65 kilometers or an easy 1.5-hour drive from Taitung City. I visited the gorge the second time I journeyed around the island with a few adventurous friends. We made the decision to go there spontaneously, and a little too late in the day, when driving through Taitung County. The result was a drive well into the night along the winding mountain highway, to a destination we knew almost nothing about. Though I don’t recommend driving along rocky cliffs after sunset, Wulu is one of those under-appreciated Taiwan gems worth going that extra mile for. Much like Taroko Gorge to the north in Hualien County, only smaller and quieter and with far fewer tourists, Wulu resonates with a stillness that any nature lover would yearn for. Its remoteness, however, means that there is not much in the way of accommodation choice. We stayed at the 4-star Chief Spa Hotel. Though a bit luxurious for travelers on a budget, it was well worth the money. For dinner we had a hearty biandang (lunch box), and we spent most of our night soaking in the resident hot-spring pools and
chatting with the cheerful locals, who were extremely amused at our inability to handle the cold pool. "You're not thick-skinned enough!" the granny next to me chuckled. Well rested and energized from the hot soak, we rose early the next day to hike the nearby Tianlong Historic Trail. Just behind the hotel is the 110-meter-long Tianlong Suspension Bridge, and the views of the gorge, created over centuries by the eroding forces of the Xinwulu River, were affirmation that our spontaneous decision to come here had been a good one. The panoramas of crags and water sun-kissed at dawn were simply breathtaking. As if the area could not possibly offer more, there are also the amazing Lisong Hot Springs. Wild and hidden amongst striking colorful limestone, the odorless springs are probably Taiwan's most idyllic. Gloves and a little gusto are required for the hour-long-hike, which includes rope work, at the end of which you'll need to cross the Xinwulu to reach the springs. As magical as it all was, we soon left Wulu to go back to Taitung City and from there continue our road trip southwards to Kenting National Park, on the island’s tip. On the way we stopped at multiple fruit stands to try the local produce. I ate sweet white corn that knocked my socks off. This was yet another simple pleasure this region had to offer on this trip, and I still remember it fondly five years on.
A Gem in
Southeastern Taiwan Text and Photos: Quyen Tran
Getting There
Quyen Tran Quyen is a traveler and writer from Australia who has spent almost two years in Taiwan. Her preferred mode of travel on the island is cycling. She likes exploring Taiwan's natural beauty, and enjoys talking to the locals to find out more about this fascinating land.
Wulu Gorge
There is no public transpor t to Wulu Gorge. If you are driving, follow Provincial Highway No. 9 to the town of Chishang, then take the Southern Cross-Island Highway (No. 20) into the mountains.
English and Chinese Haiduan Township 海端鄉 biandang (lunchbox) 便當 Lisong Hot Springs 栗松溫泉 Southern Cross-Island Highway 南橫公路 Tianlong Historic Trail 天龍古道 Tianlong Suspension Bridge 天龍吊橋 Wulu Gorge 霧鹿峽谷 Xinwulu River 新武呂溪
Travel in Taiwan
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