U KA A’I TRAVELER THE LIFE & STYLE OF KAUA‘I
KAUA‘I TRAVELER myhawaiitraveler.com
A MOVING STORY HULA: MORE THAN A DANCE
SURF LIKE KINGS
BORN IN HAWA‘I
BEYOND VANILLA GROWING THE VINE DIVINE
LOCAL VIBE ISLAND STYLE THE BEST BEACHES EPIC ADVENTURES FOOD + DRINK WHAT WE LOVE NOW OCEAN SAFETY GUIDE
Marriott Resort & Beach Club (808) 245-4860 Kukuiula Shopping Village (808) 742-2828
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CONTENTS 26 WELCOME TO KAUA‘I Paradise found
52 SOUTH SHORE
The sun-drenched coast from Po‘ipū to Polihale
68 NORTH SHORE
Adopt a dog for a day to explore around the island
70 WHALE OF A SIGN
Understanding the humpbacks' impressive displays
The majestic and magical wonder of nature
82 THE HOT SPOT
96 EAST SIDE
84 WHAT WE LOVE NOW
The Royal Coconut Coast
32 HULA: A MOVING STORY More than a dance
36 SURF LIKE KINGS
What draws surf enthusiasts to the Garden Isle
48 POT OF MANY COLORS
Kaua‘i's light and energy captured in art
62 NA WAIWAI
The ultimate Kaua‘i adventure
64 CRUISE PARADISE WITH A BUDDY
What's trending on the culinary scene
87 BEYOND VANILLA
Growing the vine divine on the Garden Isle
90 CHEERS TO SPRING
Vibrant wines for the spring season
92 EAT DAILY
Enjoy the fresh and tasty local fishes
98 ENJOY RESPONSIBLY
Kaua‘i waters are a spectacular, but also dangerous playground
UNDERSTANDING PIDGIN, LESSON 49
Broke da Mouth /brōk dah mowt/: Extremely delicious to the taste.
"Dis Potagee Paella broke da mouth, Unko Roy!"
Tiger Shrimp, Clams, Chicken, Portuguese Sausage
Eating House 1849 pays homage to Hawaii’s vibrant culinary heritage, a nod to restaurateurs like Peter Fernandez who, the story goes, opened one of the first restaurants in Hawaii, called the Eating House, back in the mid-1800s, using what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and fishermen. It’s here that award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi blends these two worlds: the easy ambiance and simple flavors of a plantation town with the dynamic modernity of haute cuisine.
Located at The Shops at Kukui‘ula | Reservations (808) 742-5000 or visit eatinghouse1849.com
U KA A’I TRAVELER THE LIFE & STYLE OF KAUA‘I
Editor in Chief Mun Sok Geiger
SHOP | 42
SPORT + ADVENTURE | 54
Coco Zickos Krystal Kakimoto Brooke Rehmann Mary Troy Johnston Ian McGuire Natalia Mastrascusa
Cover Image Ian McGuire
FOOD + DRINK | 76
Traveler Media PO BOX 159 Kamuela, HI 96743 firstname.lastname@example.org
Copyright©2019 Traveler Media
BEACHES | 102 4
EVENTS | 110
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EDITOR'S NOTE "Hele on to Kaua‘i" There’s a place I recall Not too big, in fact it’s kinda small The people there know they got it all The simple life for me
ho doesn’t love IZ? Israel Kamakawiwo‘ole is probably on most locals’ playlist. Anytime I need an instant getaway or unwind, I listen to him. His voice is angelic, full and sincere. One of my favorite songs is “Hele on to Kauaÿi.” In Hawaiian, hele means “to come”—“Come to Kaua‘i.” One of IZ’s famous adaptations, I am always transported to a simpler life and reminded of the stunning beauty of Kauaÿi from the lushness of Hanalei to the dramatic peaks of Waimea. The melody reminds me to take it easy and take my time, and most importantly, be appreciative of being on this magical island. With warm and reflective lyrics, the song touches your soul and eloquently evokes what Kauaÿi truly is—simple, yet unforgettable. Here, you are in nature’s most awesome playground. Legendary Hanalei Bay is renowned for its surf and unsurpassed beauty. You will find professional watermen and novice surfers. If you have ever wanted to surf, Kauaÿi is an ideal place to learn (Surf Like Kings, p. 36). For water enthusiasts seeking a day of fun in the sun have plenty of stunning beaches and healthy reefs to explore. Whether you’re looking to surf, snorkel, swim or sunbathe, there are miles upon miles of splendid coastline to discover. Although fearless and experienced watermen are out in treacherous waves, just keep in mind they know what they are doing and have most likely been doing it since they were three years old. The inviting blue waters 6
Hele on to Kauaÿi Hanalei by the bay Wailua River valley where I used to play The canyons of Waimea standing all alone The magic of the Garden Isle Is calling me back home… of Kauaÿi beckons with its warm and clear conditions, but be responsible and live to tell about your dream vacation by taking the time to learn about ocean safety (Enjoy Responsibly, p. 98). Discerning travelers aren’t the only ones to find themselves wintering in Hawaiÿi—the humpback whales make their annual trek from Alaska to our tropical paradise to frolic and play. And just like us, they find it hard to contain their excitement and put on dramatic displays of splashing, breaching and singing much to our delight. Catching glimpses of the gentle giants tail slapping and spyhopping is a sight you won’t forget (Whale of a Sign, p. 70). No matter your interests, whether embarking on a thrilling adventure or just chillaxin on our stunning beaches, Kauaÿi is the place to fulfill your desires and there is no place better. IZ sings it best, “When I was young and not too smart / I left my home, looking for a brand new start / To find a place that was better still / And now I know, I know that I never will.” Anytime you need to be transported back here or need an instant escape, just remember, “The magic of the Garden Isle is calling me back home.” Many happy returns, Mun Sok Geiger email@example.com Editor in Chief KAUA‘I TRAVELER
Only current views are described in this advertisement and no person is authorized to make representations on view preservation and no value has been assigned to view preservation. Views from residential properties may change over time. Kukuiâ€˜ula Realty Group LLC. Obtain a property report or its equivalent as required by Federal or State Law and read it before signing anything. No Federal or State Agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of this property. This is not an offer or solicitation in CT, NJ, or NY or in any state in
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which the legal requirements for such offering have not been met. Warning: CA Dept. of Real Estate has not inspected, examined or qualified this offering. Fees, memberships and restrictions may apply for certain amenities. Details available. Price and availability subject to change. ÂŠDecember 2018. Kukuiâ€˜ula Development Company (Hawaii), LLC. All rights reserved.
WORDS BROOKE REHMANN
In terms of traditional food found here, the loco moco is about as local and comforting as you can go and is a great representation of Hawaiian soul food. Believed to have originated in Hilo in the 1940s, the loco moco has since spread in popularity across the Pacific Islands from Samoa to Japan, and even to the U.S. mainland and has been featured on shows aired on the Travel Channel and Food Network. The basic loco moco is a scoop of white rice topped with a hamburger patty and a fried egg, then smothered in brown gravy. However, there are many variations of the staple. Meat substitutions are the most common, with favorites being kälua pork, kalbi, ham, SPAM, teriyaki beef, or chicken. Loco moco may sound a little crazy, but the ingredients manage to combine deliciously. You will definitely want to nap after this very filling meal or at least wear stretchy pants. Try a loco moco with fresh seafood such as mahi-mahi or ÿahi (yellowfin tuna) for a more refined twist.
The reefs of Hawaiÿi are full of numerous colorful and interesting fishes and the Potter’s angelfish doesn’t disappoint. Intricate markings cover the Centropyge potteri, which resembles a zebra pattern or thumbprint on its orange and blue body. This striking little fish enjoys the protection of coral reefs found here in the warm Pacific. Found nowhere else on earth, the Potter’s angelfish’s tiny body allows it to dart in and out of reefs with ease while on the lookout for food and shelter. Feeding primarily on algae, Potter’s angelfish spend most of their time near the bottom of a reef where their food is more likely to be found. This is similar to other members of the angelfish family, except that it does not eat sponges, making it even more unique. Their comb-like teeth and small mouths make it easier for them to scrape the rocks, harvesting their food in an unusual way. One thing especially interesting is that Potter’s angelfish can experience a sex reversal from female to male. This occurs if a dominant female notices that a master of a harem of smaller, lighter, less colorful females is missing during which time she takes over the harem in his place. Though this fish is found only in Hawaiÿi, there is no known name for it in the Hawaiian language. 10
Big kine? Small kine? No, it’s da kine. This is the one local lingo you will hear countless times everywhere you go in Hawaiÿi. You ever have that one word that elusively slips your mind inconveniently in the exact moment you need it? Fortunately, the Hawaiian Pidgin English language has the perfect solution for all the temporarily wordless wordsmiths out there. Da kine is used as a filler word for any object that a speaker would like to refer to, but either can’t think of its name or prefers to be ambiguous. It can be used anyway the speaker chooses— it’s the word you use when you don’t use the word according to a surfing dictionary. “Da” can be substituted for “the,” and “kine” is the equivalent to “kind.” However, “the kind” doesn’t tell us much—da kine what? Interestingly, da kine can be used as a noun or an adjective, depending on the context of the situation and sentence you’re using it. Are you looking for something, and you can’t find da kine? Or maybe you’re on the lookout for da kine meal. Or you ran into da kine at the gas station. Whatever it is you’re looking for or trying to say, if the word you’re scouring your brain for remains elusive, just remember that it’s da kine. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
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Be sure to check out our new sister restaurant, Oyster 369.
Raw, chilled and brick-oven roasted Shellfish & Seafood Located right next door to Street Burger | www.oyster369.com
SWEET TARTS Any dedicated food shopper here in Hawaiÿi knows that berries do not come cheap. Mostly grown on the mainland, the cost of blueberries, raspberries and blackberries costs a good chunk of change. Many visitors and even residents don’t know about our state’s very own berry, the ÿöhelo. The ÿöhelo, which is related to the cranberry, grows predominantly on the upper slopes of the Big Island and Maui above the 2,000-ft. elevation mark, but also can be found on Kauaÿi in locations like Alakaÿi Swamp. This berry grows on bushes ranging from dwarf sizes at 2-feet tall to medium-sized at up to 10-feet. Starting as a beautiful, colorful red or yellow bell-shaped flower, this berry can come in a range of colors, from red, pink, yellow, bluish purple, and almost every color in between. They can be tart or sweet 12
depending on ripeness, which the color does not indicate. However, the ÿöhelo looks similar to another berry growing in the same region with red berries called the ÿäkia, which happens to be poisonous. Before taking a bite of any berries found in the wild, be sure to doublecheck that you are in fact eating an ÿöhelo. ÿÖhelo are popular with nënë (Hawaiian goose), and they help to spread their seeds around. Ancient Hawaiians considered ÿöhelo to be a sacred plant, and would offer a branch of the berries to the fire goddess Pele before consuming any for themselves. Today, ÿöhelo are used to make delicious jams and jellies or to be eaten raw directly off the plant.
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Shoe Envy features stylish, comfortable resort style footwear for the whole family. A few of the many brands that we carry are Olukai, Täōs, Naot, Pikolinos, Bernie Mev and Keen. Besides shoes you will also find unique handmade vintage clutches, leather handbags and accessories. >> www.shoeenvypoipu.com
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DUCKS LIMITED Hawaiÿi doesn’t have a shortage of interesting bird life, many of which only call our islands home. Yet, one endemic bird that few people know about is the koloa maoli, or the native duck. Yes, Hawaiÿi has its very own species of duck, which looks similar to a standard female mallard. The koloa maoli have been living in the Hawaiian Islands for over thousands of years and have their own unique characteristics. Both the male and female are generally brown in color, with green or blue flight feathers, and white feathers on the border, while males have a darker head and neck. Even though the koloa maoli looks similar to a standard mallard duck, those invasive birds are becoming quite a nuisance to the survival of the native ducks, as hybridization, or cross-fertilization of viable eggs across species, is reducing the population of the indigenous 16
duck. Efforts across the islands to limit the release and population of common mallards have helped to ensure the continual growth of the native ducks’ population, with the island of Kaua‘i being especially successful. Koloa maoli can also be found in Hawaiian legends, where the ducks helped protect the fierce blind warrior, Chief Imaikalani of Kaÿü, and would alert him to the presence of enemies and guide his spears. There are ways that residents and visitors can help protect the native Hawaiian duck from becoming extinct; and the first step is being aware of its existence. Reducing the release of common mallards into the wild, and reducing your encouragement of invasive ducks, which includes feeding them, can help promote better conditions to help our own native duck to thrive. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
BOOGIE DAYS When it comes to water sports, surfing gets most of the attention here, which is not surprising since the sport was born in Hawaiÿi. But boogieboarding (or bodyboarding) along our shores can provide just as many fun opportunities to hit the waves—plus it’s much easier. Boogieboarding has been adapted from the long wooden boards of the ancient Hawaiians into a much smaller, wider board thanks to Tom Morey, who invented the Boogie Board and named it that because of his love of music. Today, the typical boogieboard is made from foam, making it lightweight and inexpensive. Boogieboarding is something anyone can try as long as they are comfortable in the ocean. Potential firsttime riders, and even more experienced riders from other areas of the world should heed some advice in regards to our unpredictable 18
ocean conditions. First, find the perfect waves for your skill level! For newbies, look for waves around one to five feet in height as well as a lifeguarded beach. Also, be sure that the waves break in a particular pattern and aren’t too unpredictable or choppy. Be mindful of steep shorebreaks to avoid serious injury, because the powerful waves can slam you into the ground beneath. You also want to be mindful of what’s below you like sharp rocks and reefs. Be mindful of other riders and be sure to take turns catching waves. Keep in mind that surfers have the right of way, so if you’ve selected a popular surfing location without any other boogieboarders, consider choosing a different beach. Ask lifeguards, concierges and locals for other locations and local knowledge/tips—most are happy to share. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
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MY KAUA‘I NAME
CHUCKY BOY CHOCK
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR AT KAUA‘I MUSEUM
HOW LONG YOU HAVE LIVED IN HAWAI‘I
ALL MY LIFE
Favorite beach: Hanalei Bay. Words can’t explain her amazing beauty—it’s Gauguin in motion. Favorite food: Fish right from the ocean to your table. Nothing better! Favorite snorkel spot: Wanini (ÿAnini) Beach because it’s 2 miles of calm ocean with lots of fish to see and also great for picnics and camping. Remember to always respect the ocean currents during the winter months. Favorite drive: Hands down the scenic North Shore—beautiful mountains, valleys, waterfalls, and of course, the ocean! Waimea Canyon to the top of Kalalau Valley is a close second. Favorite custom/tradition: Oli chanting. The mystic of chanting has always piqued my interest and when I learned my first oli, it was exhilarating and humbling at the same time. The beauty to chanting is the metaphors used which is called ‘kaona’ and at times a chant may have three, four or five different levels of possible translation, which only the author would know its true meaning along with the intended recipient of the composition. Oli was composed by the royal chanters down to the common man like myself. Favorite hangout: The tranquility of Kökeÿe, watching the indigenous birds fly from tree to tree and listening to their melodious bird calls. Also, the scent of maile (endemic vine) and mokihana (endemic berry) in the cool breeze of Kalalau Valley is mesmerizing.
Favorite place to catch the sunset/sunrise: Beach House Restaurant, Princeville Resort and, of course, Näpali Coast—my favorite! Favorite place to splurge: Kauaÿi Plantation Gift Shop located at Kauaÿi Museum for unique made in Hawaiÿi, Tahiti, Cook Island, Tonga, Samoa, Aotearoa products. Plus clothes for men and women, books, exotic Niÿihau shell lei and much more! Favorite nightspot: Princeville Resort’s lobby/lounge for great Hawaiian/jazz music plus the panoramic views and sunsets. Favorite date place: Dondero’s (at the Grand Hyatt). Food/service/ambience is perfect.
my local faves
KAUA‘I MUSEUM 20
Favorite place to take in the history: Kauaÿi Museum. Small in size like a diamond, but treasured and rich in history and culture. Favorite discovery: A Captain Cook Stamp from the 1800s—it’s priceless! Lucky you live Hawai‘i because…its beauty, people, culture and history. The Aloha lives!
TOP OF KALALAU KAUA‘I TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LEFT) KIT FURDERER
Favorite Hawaiian music: IZ—everyone’s favorite! E Ala Ë and In Dis Life.
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Do you dream of taking your family off-roading in the jungle, but never had the chance? We offer two, three, four-hour excursions, the perfect mix of adventure and touring luxury suitable for the whole family.
WHY DON'T YOU... LOOK FOR LEAPING GIANTS To see humpback whales is a majestic sighting on its own, but add the breathtaking Näpali Coast as part of your experience, and it’s definitely a must-do on Kauaÿi. Don’t miss your chance to witness the breaching humpback whales while they are visiting from Alaska. Take a whale watching tour and look for the local year-round dolphins and pilot whales as well. Try Blue Dolphin Charters (808) 335-5553, HoloHolo Charters (808) 335-0815 or Kauai Sea Tours (808) 335-5309.
WORKOUT WITH NATURE. Along with tremendous benefits on the external body, hiking has many advantages that go unseen within the body as well. Since hiking is an exercise that provides both sculpting and cardiovascular exercise, a good hike in the mountains can get the blood flowing and increase circulation, which plays an important role in maintaining general health not to mention the added benefit of inner well being that being in nature provides. There are tons of awesome trails to explore on Kauaÿi from Waimea Canyon to the Sleeping Giant. 24
BE A ROAD WARRIOR. Do you remember how much fun it was to drive an ATV as a kid? Well, it still is! Especially, when you add in the gorgeous scenery as your backdrop, and then take an invigorating dip in a secluded stream or waterfall. Ride through Kauaÿi’s unspoiled backcountry on a fun off-road adventure on private trails and lots of hidden gems otherwise inaccessible. Call Kauai ATV (808) 742-2734, Kipu Ranch Adventures (808) 246-9288 or Princeville Ranch (808) 826-7669.
PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP) PRINCEVILLE RANCH; (BOTTOM) POIPU BAY GOLF COURSE
FOCUS ON THE GREEN. You may have to concentrate on your swing a bit more when playing Kauaÿi’s top golf courses since the spectacular scenery of dramatic cliffs nestled against the blue Pacific, rolling verdant hills, and swaying palm trees can make you feel more like a nature photographer than a golfer. Makai Golf Club (808) 826-1912 and Poipu Bay Golf Course (808) 742-8711.
KAUAâ€˜I THE GARDEN ISLE
It’s no surprise that Kaua‘i typically finds itself ranked as one of the top islands in the world. There are two of many distinctions Kaua‘i holds that contribute to landing on the top of many traveler's lists. The first is that Kaua‘i is the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands, so Mother Nature has had plenty of time to cut deep gorges into the valleys, shape dramatic sea cliffs and sculpt the majestic Waimea Canyon into “the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” Another primary distinction is that Kaua‘i is also home to the rainiest spot on earth, Mount Wai‘ale‘ale (rippling water), with an average yearly rainfall of 450 inches. Situated almost in the center of the island, this 5,148 ft. tall mountain provides Kaua‘i with the nourishment it needs to earn its monicker as the Garden Isle, with lush rainforests, spectacular waterfalls and verdant tropical foliage.
The scenery may steal the show, but it’s the various adventures in the idyllic setting that will get your heart racing. You can navigate one of the Island’s seven rivers on a kayak, trek through the rainforest of Alaka‘i Wilderness Area, wander through multiple jade gardens, hike trails of all levels, and be rewarded with secret waterfalls and golden sand beaches. You can even sit poolside at a five-star resort, where your only exertion is choosing a tropical refreshment. Whatever your pleasure, this emerald island promises a regal vacation. In case you haven’t noticed, tall buildings don’t obscure any of the natural splendors of Kaua‘i. This is because legislation mandates that no structure built on Kaua‘i is taller than a coconut tree. How it has managed to maintain that code after all these years is a mystery, but Kaua‘i is no stranger when it comes to standing its ground. Not even the Great King Kamehameha could take it down. In fact, in an attempt to prevent further attacks on both his people and his Island, King Kaumuali‘i, Kaua‘i’s last reigning king, decided to cede Kaua‘i to Kamehameha in peaceful negotiations. Now that is the original “make love not war” mentality. This peaceful mindset has been passed on through generations and is apparent in island life today. Kaua‘i has the reputation of having the friendliest residents of all the islands. Not only is the Garden Isle the most beautiful, with paradise settings often portrayed in Hollywood movies, but the feel of the island is relaxed, with a laid-back attitude that resonates in the air as much as the sweet intoxicating aroma of its plumeria. 30
As balmy and dreamy as Kaua‘i is, it does experience a change in seasons, so make sure that you plan your activities accordingly. Actually, the entire state experiences basically two seasons. The Hawaiians named them kau (summer) and ho‘oilo (winter). The summer months range from May through September and those of winter from October through April. Although the seasons are usually mild, you should watch out for excessive rain in the winter. In March 2006, it rained for 40 days and 40 nights, and while nobody spotted an ark in the horizon, there was massive flooding on all of the islands. Before making the famous 11-mile trek along the Näpali Coast, make sure that the skies are clear and there is no chance of rain. The change is weather also brings a change in surf.Winter months will bring large swells to the North and West shores, and the opposite goes for summer months. Heed all warnings on the beach to ensure the safety of your family. Kaua‘i’s main vein of transportation is the predominately two-lane Kaumuali‘i Highway. Named after the king, this 82-mile stretch of highway can really get backed up, especially during rush hour. And yes, paradise does have a rush hour. About 62,000 people live on this over five million year old “Fantasy Island,” and 36,800 residents drive. So to avoid any unwanted stress in paradise, make sure to schedule your road trips around peak travel hours. Aside from this, don’t worry if you need to get from one side of the island to the other, as you could do so in about 90 minutes. So if you like the idea of visiting Waimea Canyon, but would rather stay in the quaint and convenient town of Kapa‘a, near award- winning restaurants and cool boutiques, go ahead, as the average commute time to most places is 30 minutes. Kaua‘i has 552 square miles of diverse terrain, which making it the fourth largest island in the eight-island chain. Obviously, good things come in small land mass. Once you have experienced the diversity and the beauty of each town and its attractions, you will soon agree that the Garden Isle is the best island, offering all the elements of a perfect vacation—rural enough to get away, yet a stone’s throw away from indulgence. Perfect. E komo mai. Nou ka hale (Come inside, the house is yours). myhawaiitraveler.com
PHOTO COURTESY: (LEFT) MENZES DICKSON
a moving story
WORDS EKUA IMPRAIM
mid the craggy cliffs of Kaua‘i’s North Shore is a destination that some people believe is the birthplace of hula. Legends about Këÿë Beach at Häÿena State Park abound, and it is believed that it was once a site where ancient Hawaiians learned to dance hula. Today, you can still find the remains of two ancient heiau (temples) that are dedicated to hula at this site, one of which was built to honor the goddess of hula, Laka. While it cannot be confirmed that this is indeed the birthplace of hula, it is still an important pilgrimage site for many students and aficionados of the dance.
the 19th and 20th centuries. Both the music and dance movements of this style of hula are softer than those of traditional hula and may be more familiar to visitors than hula kahiko. In general, hula ‘auana is accompanied by melodic singing backed by the sounds of the ÿukulele, slackkey guitar, and other modern instruments. While visitors and locals alike enjoy this style of hula, it is often the main style of hula that visitors will encounter at tourist-oriented performances. It is also important to note that many companies that offer lüÿau often incorporate dance styles from other parts of Polynesia such as the spinning fire knife dance from Samoa called siva afi or the fast hip shaking ÿöteÿa dance from Tahiti. Beyond what is performed in tourist venues, today, hula is a thriving part of Hawaiÿi’s culture with dancers ranging from small keiki (children) to küpuna (elders) taking part in hälau hula (hula schools) that practice both traditional and modern hula. While hula is currently a source of cultural pride for Hawaiÿi, there was a time where it wasn’t possible to practice or perform the dance openly. During the period after Western contact, missionaries brought Christianity to Hawaiÿi, and some of them felt that hula was a lascivious style of dance. These ideas convinced the converted Hawaiian monarch Queen Kaÿahumanu to place a ban on performing hula in public in 1830. Despite the ban, hula did not completely go away, it was forced underground. It reemerged in the public eye in the late 1800s with the rise of King Kaläkaua who was an avid supporter of hula and other aspects of Hawaiian culture. The dance’s popularity once again diminished after the fall of the Hawaiian monarchy. But despite attempts to relegate hula to the shadows of Hawaiian society, it survived. A Hawaiian renaissance that grew in the 1960s and 1970s brought a resurgence of interest in and passion for Hawaiian culture. People who identified as Native Hawaiian sought to reclaim their roots, and hula was a major part of this cultural revival. Since this time, the popularity of hula has spread around the islands and beyond, with Hawaiians taking the dance form with them elsewhere and establishing hälau hula around the United States as well as abroad. Modern Hawaiÿi is vastly different from the ancient Hawaiÿi of hula’s origins. Around the islands, much of what were once taro fields, heiau, and fishponds has given way to development. But despite the changes to Hawaiÿi’s landscape, everyday life, and culture, hula’s roots in the ÿäina (land) run deep. It remains a strong cultural practice and celebration of what Hawaiÿi once was, and it provides an outlet for Hawaiians to redefine what Hawaiÿi currently is and can be. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE TOP L/R) JOE OLIVAS
Natural settings such as this can be the perfect place to ponder the movements and significance of traditional hula in Hawaiÿi. The fluid yet powerful motions of hula can be mesmerizing, but it is more than just a dance for the sake of entertainment. Every movement of hula has meaning. Various hula moves can convey human emotions or represent elements of nature such as the sun, the sea, or the wind. Combined, these gestures tell a story and encapsulate the history, landscapes, and spirit of Hawaiÿi. When you connect what your senses experience in the natural settings of Hawaiÿi to the movements of hula dancers, the dancing comes alive with meaning—it tells a story. In pre-Western contact Hawaiÿi, hula was performed for a variety of purposes—to honor gods or chiefs, to welcome visitors, for celebrations, and to honor the natural beauty of their surroundings, among other reasons. While many outside of the 50th state associate hula with women in grass skirts and coconut bras, this is an inaccurate depiction of the dance due to commercialized representations of Hawaiian culture, and hula is performed by both men and women. Traditional hula, or, hula kahiko, was initially performed in wrapped skirts called päÿü for the women and loincloths called malo for the men. These outfits were made from kapa, a type of cloth made with the bark of trees that has been softened and pounded and then decorated using natural dyes and paints. The plants and flowers that hula dancers adorn themselves with may have meaning and can be selected to pay tribute to a specific island or a deity of Hawaiian mythology. The musical accompaniment to hula kahiko is also vastly different from the gentle ÿukulele-backed melodies that often accompany modern hula performances. Traditional hula is performed to the sounds of oli (chanting) and percussion instruments made from natural materials including püÿili, rattles made of bamboo sticks, gourd drums called ipu, and the pahu, a drum made out of the trunk of a coconut tree and covered with shark skin. In ÿölelo Hawaiÿi (Hawaiian language), words or phrases can have multiple meanings, which is known as kaona. This means that lyrics may have hidden meanings and the songs and accompanying dances of hula may not be what they appear to be about on the surface. The mele (songs) of traditional hula are performed with passion by kumu hula (hula teachers), and in today’s revival of hula, many of the ancient traditions live on. In the sparse and raw sounds of mele hula, you can hear the guttural chanting and rhythmic percussion conveying the essence of Hawaiÿi’s mana (power) and summoning the spirit of Hawaiÿi’s ancestors. Hula ‘auana is the modern style of hula developed in
SURF LIKE KINGS WORDS COCO ZICKOS
urfing is a beloved activity in Hawaiÿi, especially on Kauaÿi where the Pacific makes a bold statement with its rolling waves. The Garden Isle’s year-round warm weather and ideal water temperatures, as well as persistent waves, make it a prime locale for surfing. Gliding across the ocean is an exhilarating experience and one that’s highly sought after. It’s why so many people uproot their lives to move to the island and why many surf competitions are held in Kauaÿi waters at famous spots such as Hanalei Bay. While surf enthusiasts have been drawn to the Garden Isle for decades, the water sport is steeped in ancient Hawaiian history and was an esteemed activity once fit for aliÿi (royalty). Heÿe nalu (literally “wave sliding”) dates back thousands of years throughout Oceania. The water sport stretched across communities in many regions, including West Africa and Peru, but gained notoriety in Polynesia, and more specifically Hawaiÿi. In ancient Hawai‘i, surfing was enjoyed by men and women of all ages as a recreational, social and competitive activity. It boosted relationships among Native Hawaiians and also served as a spiritual practice. Rituals were conducted such as wave chanting and paying homage to the ocean prior to surf sessions. Another ceremonial practice included shaping and carving of the wooden boards, which were made from trees including koa and breadfruit. Many Hawaiians to this day continue these traditions and still find a deep cultural and spiritual connection to the sport. Since surfing was available and accessible for everyone to participate in during ancient times there weren’t many things that distinguished aliÿi apart from others when they were out on the water except for the size of their boards. Though there is some speculation that certain places that offered slow, gentle waves like Waikïkï, were kapu (off-limits) to commoners. There is less speculation, however, that chiefs used extremely long boards called olo. The boards were around 16 feet—about twice the size of today’s longboards. Everyone else used alaia boards, thin, mid-sized boards akin to today’s shortboards, or paipo, which were short, round-nosed boards that were solely ridden on the stomach like a bodyboard. These are some of the various aspects of surfing in Hawai‘i that were well-documented during the late 1700s when Europeans began arriving and were fascinated by what they saw subsequently writing down their observations. By the late 1800s, surfing took a back seat in cultural activities, however, as the Hawaiian population was severely decimated due to the introduction of Western illnesses and a changing colonial economy that meant there was less free time spent in the ocean and more hours spent working in
plantation fields. Theories also speculate that Christian missionaries may have thought the sport was sinful and encouraged its discontinuation. Surfing had a renaissance by the early 1900s. Visitors flocked to Hawai‘i in droves and were enamored with the sport of catching waves. After the overthrow of the monarchy and America’s annexation of the Islands, the nation’s economic influence led to the commercialization of the water sport. It was during this time period that the most celebrated surfer and greatest waterman of all time, Duke Kahanamoku, also known as “The Big Kahuna,” rose to fame and contributed to the international recognition of the sport. Since then, surfing has become a multi-billion dollar industry. Among top professional athletes in recent decades who hail from Kauaÿi include the world-famous competitor Bethany Hamilton who was attacked by a tiger shark at the age of 13 losing most of her left arm. Titus Kinimaka of the North Shore of Kauaÿi is another distinguished surfer from the island whose daughter, Maluhia, followed in his footsteps becoming her own legendary national and international competitive surfer. Maluhia Kinimaka grew up catching Kauaÿi waves and competed throughout most of her childhood, but finds that it’s the “creative freedom” and the sport’s cultural connections to her Hawaiian ancestry that she appreciates the most. “When there are no judges around, you can surf impulsively and expressively, doing maneuvers you want whenever you want to do them without criticism or worry that you might lose your monthly salary if you don’t complete your ride,” she says. This freedom on the water is precisely what draws visitors from around the world to dabble in the sport. All islands offer different surf, but Kauaÿi is known for having some of the best waves across the state. That said—there are precautions to take, particularly among those without experience. The best spots for surfing are mostly under the radar and only known to locals so if you really want the finest surf that Kauaÿi has to offer, you must befriend kamaÿäina (Hawaiÿi residents). Still, there are ample opportunities to catch waves all around the island and even the most well-known locales offer phenomenal surf, especially if you’ve never been on a board before. Hanalei Bay is great for beginners during the summer season and Poÿipü Bay is perfect for newbies during winter. Kalapakï Bay is protected year-round and often has easily accessible, gently rolling waves. What’s great about all three of these locations is that they have surf schools nearby so you can hire a professional to help you learn the skills needed to catch a wave. You’ll receive instruction on everything from how to get up on the board and at what moment to start paddling in order to grab a wave heading in your direction. Advanced surfers might already know the ropes, but they should still take heed of the power of Kauaÿi’s ocean, which is unlike anyplace else. And while a lesson 40
might not be necessary, it’s advisable to ease into the surf and only jump into water at beaches where a lifeguard is on post. Maluhia Kinimaka whose family owns and operates Titus Kinimaka’s Hawaiian School of Surfing (hawaiianschoolofsurfing. com/808-652-1116) in Hanalei advises, “It is always best to do your first couple of sessions at a near shore break with easy accessibility to emergency personnel, just as a warm-up to get used to the caliber of Hawaiian waves… I believe many visitors are caught off guard by the power and unpredictability of Kauaÿi’s surf spots and often find themselves in dangerous situations all too quickly.” Always remember to keep safety in mind and be aware of your surroundings; and be kind and courteous to everyone else chasing the same epic waves. Make sure to practice good surf etiquette. If you don’t know the rules, learn them before you paddle out. Once you are comfortable, get on board to experience a thrilling ride unlike any other. For a list of Kaua‘i beaches with lifeguards, visit hawaiibeachsafety.com/kauai.
HANALEI BAY myhawaiitraveler.com
Van Balen Fine Jewelry
SHOP KAUA‘I 42
Ultimate Wave Pendant with Diamonds, Opal Inlay and Shimmer Diamond in 14K Yellow Gold from $1,499, chain included and matching earrings available (top left); Horizon Pendant with Abalone Inlay and Pavé Diamonds in 14K Rose Gold from $979, chain included and matching earrings available (top right); Wave Hinged Bangle Bracelet with Diamonds and Opal Inlay in 14K Yellow Gold (below right). Available at NaHoku in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops, Po‘ipu Shopping Village or NaHoku.com.
One-of-a-kind LEIKO clutch purses (above). Vintage lines capture the essence of the 1960’s era. Some come from Tutu’s old dresses or uncle's favorite aloha shirts. These vintage fabrics are really great memories—its a special part of our lives when things were simple, wholesome and stress-free. Sophisticated suede leather mid-heel sandal (right) with adjustable ankle strap and buckle, lightly padded insoles. Available at Shoe Envy in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops.
ISLAND STYLE Shop these glamorous designs available at Van Balen Fine Jewelry in The St. Regis Princeville Resort.
Tahitian Black pearls in every color for every occasion. Perfectly round, high quality, naturally colored strands with 12mm pearls,Â in any length requested. Prices range from $6000 and up.
Day or night ~ every lady needs a pair of pearl earrings. This pair of Tahitian black pearls showcase a round pair of 11 mm pearls highlighted by a quarter carat of white diamonds. Price $3200. Available in Golden Indonesian pearls, and South Sea white Australian pearls. Classic pearl stud earrings without diamonds are also available in every color, prices range from $525 to $2200.
Diamond rings are always a favorite! The perfect Anniversary gift, these sparkly bands can be worn individually or look amazing stacked together. Prices range from $1200. and up. Sizing included at no charge! Appraisal included.
A bracelet to die for ~ Cognac diamonds and fancy yellow diamond center stones in various cuts, naturally colored and certified with white diamond accents. Price available upon request. Appraisal included.
ISLAND SHOPPING NORTH SHORE SHOPPING VAN BALEN FINE JEWELRY Our internationally renowned pearl jewelry is hand made on Kaua‘i by Valerie Van Balen, crafted with exquisite attention to detail. In addition to her own creations, Valerie has traveled the globe discovering other world class jewelers, whom she now represents. This allows for a virtual “around the world” shopping experience, all within one relaxing location. We welcome you to visit our store and adorn yourself in our exotic pearl jewelry from Tahiti, Australia and Indonesia. We also
carry an enticing selection of ethical diamonds in a multitude of shapes, sizes and colors. Our highly educated staff will provide you with flawless service, guaranteed. Enhance your visit to Kaua‘i by selecting from an unsurpassed collection of fine jewelry. Van Balen Fine Jewelry is the exclusive jeweler to the prestigious St. Regis Princeville Resort, open everyday from 9am to 9pm. (808) 826-6555. SOUTH SHORE SHOPPING GRAND HYATT SHOPS The shops at the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i offer
something for everyone. Na Hoku features an alluring collection of Tahitian pearls and more. Collectors Fine Art showcases wall art and handblown glass creations. Lamonts carries sundries, snacks and beverages. The Sandal Tree offers a selection of footwear and accessories. Reyn’s continues its tradition of aloha wear for the whole family. Visit Poipu Bay Golf Shop for designer collections for on and off the course. Try Water Wear for beachwear for every age group. Kohala Bay Collections features casual designer elegance.
The Pink Palace~Waikiki
Royal Hawaiian Hotel
“The Pink Palace” ValVanBalen.com
5520 Ka Haku Road 808.826.6555 info@ValVanBalen.com
14k gold necklace set with an Australian "pin fire" Crystal Opal and diamond accent (above). Sterling silver hand hammered double drop earring with chain link (above, right). 14k gold ring set with a rare Green Tourmaline and princess cut diamonds (right). Available at Grande's Gems at the Kauai Marriott Resort or The Shops at Kukuiâ€˜ula.
ISLAND SHOPPING + LIVING SOUTH SHORE & LĪHU‘E GRANDE’S GEMS Grande’s Gems Hawai‘i has been featuring nature inspired and romantic jewelry since 1982. Our guests will find fun fashionforward and elegant jewelry in opal, multicolor gemstones, diamond, Tahitian, golden and south sea pearls. Sea life and tropical flower jewelry from Denny Wong and Mikel. Visit us at Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club (808) 245-4860 and our newest location at The Shops at Kukui‘ula (808) 742-2828, or online at GrandesGemshawaii.com. MENS HARDWEAR Mens Hardwear is all about the guys. Jewelry, knives, watches, and accessories for men in cool and edgy styles. Featuring men’s jewelry from Scott Kay, Edward Mirell, Triton, and Hellmuth. Tahitian pearl and opal designs from Mens Hardwear collection. Knives from William Henry Studio and Cold Steel. Visit us at our two locations on Kaua‘i, or shop online at menshardwear.com.
REAL ESTATE HŌKŪALA Höküala, A Timbers Resort, enjoys a setting among the most spectacular in all of the Hawaiian Islands, a 450-acre natural amphitheater with an unobstructed panorama from the ocean to coastline to sculpted mountains beyond. In the poetic language of native Hawaiians, Höküala means ‘Rising Star’. It is fitting, then, that this epic resort will evolve gradually, beginning with Timbers Kaua‘i - Ocean Club & Residences, a residential enclave located on the ocean's edge of the Pacific. The award-winning Jack Nicklaus Signature Ocean Course, already rated among the very best, features the longest stretch of continuous oceanfront holes in all of Hawai‘i. Höküala offers a rare and delicate balance between adventure and serenity, discovery and accessibility. The evolving vision is to create a place and experience that unites us all in the
celebration of the island, its culure, and its people. For more information, call (808) 7206688 or (800) 269-2364. Visit them online at hokualakauai.com/traveler. KUKUI‘ULA Inspired by the authentic Kaua‘i island culture, and named for the candlenut (kukui) torches that once guided the island’s fishermen back to shore, Kukui‘ula is a Kaua‘i community that offers our homeowners the laid-back lifestyle of classic Hawai‘i. At the heart of our carefully planned Hawai‘i luxury homes, nestled above Kukui‘ula Bay, are the Plantation House, Spa and Makai Pools. From here, the Tom Weiskopf-designed golf course follows the natural flow of the land through the community’s coffee fields, meadows and rolling hillsides — affording wide, panoramic vistas of the Pacific. Call (808) 201-0380 or visit kukuiula.com or lodgeatkukuiula.com.
NA HOKU An incomparable collection of the finest Hawaiian and Island Lifestyle jewelry for women and men; Na Hoku is recognized in Hawai‘i and the world for its exquisite islandinspired designs; from our original Hawaiian slipper (flip flop) pendant, our elegant Palm Tree Jewelry Collection, the timeless Na Hoku diamond solitaire engagement ring and bridal collections, to our extensive Plumeria Jewelry Collection and our traditional Hawaiian jewelry. Featuring unique collections by Kabana, Steven Douglas, Asch/Grossbardt, and Levian, as well as our exquisite Tahitian Pearl designs. Na Hoku jewelry captures the essence of Hawaiian and island lifestyle and is unmatched in quality and craftsmanship. Located in the Grand Hyatt Shops (808) 7421863 and Poipu Shopping Village (808) 7427025 or at nahoku.com. ISLAND LIVING AT KUKUI‘ULA myhawaiitraveler.com
pot of many colors
KAUA‘I'S LIGHT AND ENERGY CAPTURED IN ART WORDS MARY TROY JOHNSTON IMAGES NATALIA MASTRASCUSA
ean McRaine spent over 30 years working in obscurity, the kind of obscurity the potter describes as “total,” “complete” and “absolute.” A large part of his lifetime was devoted to developing his art. The last decade has represented a huge leap into colored clay, a period filled with inventiveness in terms of mechanics, a fierce attraction to energy, and incorporating painting values into the art of clay. After decades of working with clay, and a “learning curve” of five years figuring out techniques with color, he says he made his first “successful design.” Others might say he achieved mastery. A team of videographers from Art Insider discovered Dean’s work on Instagram. They came to Kaua‘i to shoot a video of his clay-making. Over the course of four hours, two cameras captured the detail of the technical process they dubbed “psychedelic pottery” in the tag of the video, picking up on the term Dean used to describe his forms. Basically, the video that first appeared in March 2018 went viral with 30 million views and counting (https:// www.facebook.com/thisisinsiderart/videos/artist-makespsychedelic-pottery/715002562003644/). Dean became an overnight sensation. No longer the quasi-solitary potter tucked away on a back street in the small east side town of Kapa‘a, a dot in the middle of the Pacific, he became a global phenomenon. Consequently, he cannot make enough pottery to keep up with demand. His online Etsy
shop is empty except for the addition of a wait list. In Kapa‘a, he has enlisted other talented colleagues to engage in collaborations to increase his production and share in his creativity and success. While the video highlighted his technical process, very little has been written about the artist’s creative process, a fascinating part of his long exploration with clay. As a former family therapist, he is insightful into his own motivations and behaviors as an artist. He definitely sees himself as a craftsman, as the kind of guy who likes to make things, from guitars at one point to building his studio and making all the furnishings inside. In terms of “artistry,” he has been drawn to the works of indigenous peoples, especially the yarn art designs of the Huichol of Central America and the traditional art of Aboriginal Australians. It is possible to see “auras” around the images, reflecting a mysticism and spiritual tradition that has not been dimmed by contemporary culture. The “altered state of consciousness” that inspires their art affects the Kapa‘a potter, who makes the striking observation that Huichol art “knocks you out of the physical world.” Dean’s creative instincts are spurred on by his interest in energy. In the last 10 years, he has discovered that he can tap into the energy of colors to “manifest” energy, to “communicate” energy. He had never thought it would have been possible with clay until he discovered colored 49
clay. As a self-described “old hippie turned New Age hippie guy,” he has always had the desire to “see something beyond three dimensional reality.” Looking closely at the way color is utilized in his work, one can see how much fun he has offsetting colors while at the same time letting them flow into each other. He sees himself as being able to think about “basic color ideas that painters get to think about,” an unusual experience for a potter. The techniques he invented to make psychedelic clay enable him to focus on “foreground and background, hot and cool (color) values, hue and saturation.” For example, he experiments with placing “one color, very saturated and rich, next to one that is more pastel.” As a result, the pieces seem to be flowing, vibrating, changing and stretching the boundaries of the forms. The color shift is so continuous that one is presented with the full effect instead of the separate elements of the progression. Dean likes that the colors move into each other believing the “smooth kind of flow comes closer to imitating the way the natural world is” and is more similar to “the way light works.” Natural colors are not fixed as they change with the light. He mentions the “millions” of greens we see on Kaua‘i thanks to changing light. Abstractions from the natural wonders of Kaua‘i are represented in his art. A pale orange and vibrant red fish, weirdly scaled and shaped, pulses against a background. Other organic forms seem to be imaginings of bird feathers, the inside of nuts, and all sorts of waves. His studio is intentionally named LightWave Pottery. Dean cites the “quality of light” on the Garden Island as a major influence owing to how much light there is. He observes that “Kaua‘i is a mecca for light workers,” “yogic, psychic and spiritual,” who try to tap into the energy of the island. It seems the island has also provided him with the 50
protected space he needs in order to create, encasing him in beauty as he, in turn, encases beauty in forms. According to the artist, “The beauty of Kaua‘i flows through me and comes out in the pottery.” He goes on to say that artists are always influenced by their environment, pointing out the seasonal changes reflected in Japanese ceramics, with an “aesthetic, restrained, soft and muted,” perhaps reminiscent of winter. Although Dean is able to analyze different influences on his work, he maintains that, above all, his creative path is “very intuitive.” Indeed, it seems to stem from some inexplicable internal spring that is, frankly, bubbling over. One of his admirers gave him the supreme compliment, “Your pieces are happiness made solid.” It can be said as well that his pieces are close to the dance, echo with the chant, and resound with the laugh. He admits to having “a little magician in him,” something he says “we all have,” enchanted that “it is a wonderful and powerful place to be.” He also identifies with the “lover archetype,” describing how it “governs the artist” in the desire to be joined with something greater than oneself. For Dean McRaine, his art is a “tremendous affirmation of existence,” a “way of saying I am.” He believes he could never be without his “creative outlet.” “It is like food to me. You cannot live without food.” We are certainly delighted he has shared his feast with us...all that mirth and merry-making, and abundance of energy. I am grateful to my daughter-in-law, Renée Parker Johnston, a respected ceramicist in her own right and long-time friend and colleague of Dean McRaine, for her contributions to this story, especially in terms of helping me understand an artist’s creative process. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
THE SUNNY SOUTH PO‘IPŪ TO WAIMEA CANYON
tunnel of tall eucalyptus trees marks the gateway to Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore. Perfect weather and golden beaches make the south side of Kaua‘i a favorite hang out for both visitors and locals. Old Köloa Town is home to Hawai‘i’s first active sugar mill, the birthplace of the Hawaiian sugar industry, which was the state’s strongest economy for more than a century. Although the mill is inoperational now, the charming town thrives with activity from the many restaurants, boutiques and shops that line the wooden sidewalks. One of the best ways to really experience all the South Shore has to offer is by ATV, exploring its beautiful vistas, plantations and waterfalls. Fun! Just a couple of miles south of Köloa lies sunny Po‘ipü, a major resort destination with beachfront condos and restaurants developed around some of the best beaches on the Island. Once there, you will see why Po‘ipü Beach has been voted America’s Best Beach by the Travel Channel. It’s no wonder, as Po‘ipü provides beachgoers a place to snorkel, swim, wade, boogie-board, kayak, surf and sunbathe. Swimming at all levels can be enjoyed, from the protected natural saltwater pools to the more exciting wave action for the experienced. With three bow-shaped bays, each with their own environment, Po‘ipü thrives with a multitude of marine life. Looking to satisfy the explorer in you? Then discover the secluded and diverse landscape of Mähä‘ulepü. With rugged limestone cliffs, ancient burial grounds and rocky sea caves, your journey will be unforgettable. If trekking by foot, start at Shipwreck Beach, located just east of the Hyatt. (Hint: If you see locals jumping from a 50-ft sand dune at Makawehi Point, you’re headed in the right direction.) Once in the ironwoods, you should be able to pick up the trail. If you have a 4WD and a watch, you can drive in. But
if you do drive, pay attention to the time, as the park closes at 6pm, and you don’t want to get locked in. At Prince Kühïo Park, you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He was known for spearheading the Hawaiian Homes Commission Act. This sets aside 200,000 acres of leasehold land for indigenous Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace. To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave when the tide is high. A visit to the Garden Island wouldn’t be complete without visiting a garden or two. The National Tropical Botanical Garden and the Allerton Garden are two stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. Just a little inland from the opulent coast, is the modest town of Kaläheo. Take a drive through the neighborhood and experience true island living. Stop and picnic in paradise in Kukui O Lono Park. Because the park is set up on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction, including the south coast and Läwa‘i Valley. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. By blending luxury and tradition, the South Shore of Kaua‘i is sure to provide something for everyone. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: PRINCEVILLE RANCH ADVENTURES
SPORT + ADVENTURE The spirit of adventure thrives on the Garden Isle with secret waterfalls, beaches and hiking trails to excite the explorer in all of us. With so much to discover in the vast ocean, valleys, parks and rivers, the choices are endless and the unmatched beauty is complimentary. 54
M MULTI-YEAR WINNER!
“Our pilot was terrific and his narration was superb. The whole staff was friendly, attentive and helpful from the minute we arrived for check-in until we waved Aloha.
The entire experience was the
absolute high point of our vacation.” Satisfied JHH Customer
Eurocopter AStar Doors On
“Going to Kauai and not taking a helicopter flight is like going to the Sistine Chapel and not looking up.” The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook
Hughes 500 Doors Off
Now all you have to do is decide…
Dfi Dfifiwfififly wfi fly “Doors-On” fir “Doors-Off”?
Off-Island Toll-Free: 1.888.245.2001 FfififiPfirtfififi5fiCfirtfififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififififi Tour paths will vary according to weather conditions. Weight Restrictions Apply. 24-Hour Cancellation Notice Required.
SPORT + ADVENTURE
ADVENTURE GUIDE AIR TOURS JACK HARTER HELICOPTERS
Jack Harter is the Originator of Helicopter Tours on Kaua‘i. Jack’s motto is “Imitated by All, Equaled by None!” All of the employees at Jack Harter Helicopters work to carry on Jack’s reputation of providing safe, high quality tours that become cherished memories. Choose a 60 or 90 minute narrated tour offered in two types of helicopters. Their luxurious, air-conditioned, 6-passenger Eurocopter AStar features huge floor-to-ceiling windows for unsurpassed visibility and a two-way intercom system with BOSE noise canceling headsets. Adventurous travelers who seek a little more excitement may want to consider a flight in one of Jack Harter Helicopters’ 4-passenger Hughes 500 helicopters which are flown with the DOORS OFF. FAA Part 135 Certified. Call (808) 245-3774 or helicopters-kauai.com.
Experience Kaua‘i’s hidden wonders that can only be discovered from the air. See areas where no one has ever set foot. Your tour will include famous areas that make Kaua‘i a favorite location for Hollywood filmmakers. You will see lush valleys dotted with waterfalls, colorful Waimea Canyon and the impenetrable Näpali Coast known for its towering razor sharp cliffs and secluded beaches. Depart from Lï‘hue Heliport or the exclusive Princeville Heliport. Call (808) 245-5953.
EXPLORE KAUA‘I ATV TOURS
Venture into Kaua‘i’s lush, tropical paradise on the back of a semi-automatic, easy to use All Terrain Vehicle. Choose one of our daily ATV expeditions through the gorgeous mountains of Kaua‘i’s south side for an unforgettable experience on the road less traveled. Ride your own ATV on 22,000 acres of private dirt roads and trails. Enjoy breathtaking mountain and coastline views, unspoiled tropical landscapes inaccessable to the general public and a half mile tunnel through the heart of the Ha‘upu mountain range. Come join us for the ultimate off-road adventure. Call (808) 742-2734.
KIPU RANCH ADVENTURES
We are proud to be one of the top eco-tours in Hawai‘i. We enable visitors and residents alike to discover the rich history, landscape and legends that make Kaua‘i unique. Guests return to us year after year because of our enthusiastic dedication to high standards of quality and service. Adventure lovers enjoy the thrills of our ATVs while nature lovers and photography enthusiasts enjoy our Rhino and Ranger passenger tours. We also cater to private groups, families, companies and weddings. Spend a few hours with us and see why we are the number one ATV tour in Hawaii! You will be deeply moved by your experience of genuine aloha, history and tropical adventure. Call (808) 246-9288 or visit kiputours.com.
Ranked #3 in best courses you can play in hawaii. - Golfweek
One of the top 5 greatest golf settings in the united states.
- Nat. Geo. Traveler
PRINCEVILLE RANCH ADVENTURES
Go mauka. Get away from the crowds and find yourself in nature. Explore a hidden part of Kaua’i rarely seen and experience the pure natural wonder of our 2,500-acre family ranch on the North Shore. Princeville Ranch has it all: ziplines, horseback riding, 4x4 off-roading, hiking, kayaking and secluded waterfalls. Glide over green valleys and jungles. We’ve got an extensive Kauai zipline course for all levels. Looking for excitement, speed, and flying mud? Blast through streams and get ready for “permagrin” because our fleet of 4x4 side-by-sides will take you to some amazing places. Enjoy panoramic views of our working cattle ranch on horseback. Both group and private rides are available, and we can accommodate beginners up to expert riders. Along the way, our friendly guides share the history and culture of both Kaua‘i and the Ranch. Or how about kayaking down a gentle, jungle stream and hiking through a lush rainforest? Or swimming plus a picnic at a stunning private waterfall? We even offer combination adventures so you and your family can mix up the fun. There’s an adventure for everyone at Princeville Ranch! Call (808) 826-7669 or visit us at princevilleranch.com.
GOLF MAKAI GOLF CLUB
PMS 3415 95% - C 100% - Y 27% - K
PMS 186 13%-C 100% - M 83% - Y
PMS 471 C - 14% M - 68% Y - 100% K - 4%
The Makai Golf Club at Princeville has long been considered one of Hawai‘i’s premier golf facilities. The distinct layout of the course strategically winds around serene lakes and native woodlands, while capitalizing on spectacular coastline views. With the recent renovation by original architect Robert Trent Jones Jr. complete, the course is now open for play! For reservations and information, please call (808) 826-1912 for tee times or visit makaigolf.com.
POIPU BAY GOLF COURSE
#65 on america’s 100 greatest public golf courses. - Golf Digest
Use promo code “KAUAI19” when reserving a tee time online. www.makaigolf.com • 808.826.1912 56
Come experience the breathtaking beauty of Köloa; from the beauty of the natural settings to the preservation of the rich history of the land. Travel through and above a variety of ecosystems located on Grove Farm lands on 8 fantastic ziplines. Watch the sun set on our Sunset Tour and fly hands free over the jungle like your favorite super hero in our custom upgradeable Flyin’ Kauai’an Harness. Brave the island’s longest lines at Koloa Zipline! Call (808) 7422734 or visit koloazipline.com.
Sprawled between lush mountains and rugged ocean cliffs on Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore, Poipu Bay Golf Course boasts 18 championship holes that are as visually stunning as they are challenging. Designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., Poipu Bay is one of the most highly acclaimed resort courses in the Pacific. From 1994-2006, the course played host to the annual PGA Grand Slam of Golf, one of the most prestigious tournaments in the golf world. A round at Poipu Bay Golf Course affords you the opportunity to experience the sheer pleasures and daunting challenges of a course recognized as one of America’s finest and to “play where champions play.” Call (808) 742-8711 or visit poipubaygolf.com. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
washes off but
the memories last
kauaiatv.com | 808-742-2734 | ď… kauaiatv
SPORT + ADVENTURE
SNORKEL, SAIL & SURF BLUE DOLPHIN CHARTERS
The highlight of any vacation has to be a Kaua‘i Näpali Coast sailing tour, sailing down the Näpali with dolphins surfing at the bow of your catamaran, is the ultimate in ecotourism and adventure travel. We offer the best ocean sightseeing experience and whale watching tours of any charter boat company in the Hawaiian Islands. Our Kaua‘i sailing tours also venture to Ni‘ihau, The Forbidden Island, and along the shores of Po‘ipü Beach for a romantic sunset sail. Everyone enjoys scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, and the true spirit of aloha from our experienced, fun loving, crew. (808) 335-5553. Visit us online at kauaiboats.com. Located in Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele.
The memories should last a lifetime, not the trip getting there. Our two boats, Leila and Holo Holo, get you to the action quicker than anybody else, so you have more time to snorkel, sightsee, relax and enjoy the pristine waters and spectacular cliffs of Kaua‘i’s Näpali Coast, and the “forbidden island” of Ni‘ihau. We offer morning snorkel sails along the Näpali Coast with an optional tour to Ni‘ihau. We also offer romantic Näpali sunset sails in the evening. Located in the Port Allen Marina Center in Elee‘le. Call (808) 335-0815 for reservations or visit us online at holoholocharters.com.
KAUA‘I SEA TOURS
Kaua‘i Sea Tours is unique among the boat tour operators on Kaua‘i, as they offer both traditional catamaran tours and adventurous zodiac boat tours of the Näpali Coast. Both tours are run by experienced boat captains, who are educated on Kaua‘i wildlife, conservation and history. Come aboard Kaua‘i Sea Tours for a “can’t miss” adventure! Take advantage of our unique permits to land on the Näpali Coast and hike into an ancient Hawaiian Fishing Village. Enjoy our delicious, catered lunch on board and view some of the most diverse marine life in Hawai‘i. We’ve been granted a State Parks Special Use Permit, which means you’ll see remote beaches where others can’t go. Tours depart from Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele, 4353 Wai‘alo Rd. Ste 2B-3B. Call (808) 8267254 for reservations.
Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & size-The SEAMO BETTA™ & LI’L MO BETTA™ are Rx receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver fresh-air on every breath. Sumo™ Mask & Bigfoots™ fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & FREE 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie Board for the week. Open 8 to 5 Every Day. Located in Kapa‘a (808)823-9433 and Koloa (808)742-2206, or visit snorkelbob.com.
ATTRACTIONS NORTH SIDE ALAKA‘I WILDERNESS PRESERVE
The Alaka‘i Wilderness area is a mystical rainforest in the high plateau near Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale and is home to some of Hawai‘i’s rarest plants and endangered birds. On clear days, you can see breathtaking views of Hanalei and Wainiha valleys. The park includes nature trails and a boardwalk over marshy terrain to explore the most interior park in Kaua‘i. The Alaka‘i Swamp is 10 miles long and two miles wide. Wear appropriate hiking clothes (bring a sweater) and shoes. The boardwalk can be very slippery, wet and muddy at times. The trail ends at the vista of Kilohana on the edge of Wainiha Pali. Located off Hwy 550 adjacent to Köke‘e State Park. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather info in Köke‘e or hawaiitrails.org.
DRY AND WET CAVES
Maniniholo Dry Cave is said to have been dug out by Manini-holo, the chief fisherman of the Menehune in search of an evil spirit who stole the fish intended for the Menehunes. Scientifically, sea caves are formed by ocean waves pounding away at the lava for thousands of years. The grotto is covered with fern and vines and is located across Hä‘ena Beach Park off Rte. 560. Waikapala‘e Wet Cave and Waikanaloa Wet Cave are the remains of an ancient lava tube created by the forces of the sea. The cold water in the caves is fed by underground springs and the level of water depends on the tides. The caverns are said to have been used as a gathering place for chiefs in ancient times. Swimming is not recommended due to the presence of leptospirosis found in fresh water. Wear appropriate shoes to prevent injury from the slippery lava rock. Located western end of Rte. 560. Both wet caves are located just before mile marker #10 on the left, past Hä‘ena Beach Park.
HANALEI VALLEY OVERLOOK
A Treasure By Design
More than beautiful, the Hanalei Valley is mystical, magical and substantial, with spectacular vistas and a half-mile patchwork of taro ponds. The fertile and ancient kalo lo‘i (the flooded taro fields) of Hanalei have fed the Hawaiians since the first Polynesians arrived here over a thousand years ago. Currently, it still produces most of the state’s taro for poi, a Hawaiian staple. You can see the 900-acre National Wildlife Refuge from the overlook. Located on Hwy 56 in Princeville.
A National Historic Landmark, this lighthouse had the largest clamshell lens of any lighthouse in the world and served as a beacon since it was built in 1913 to guide passing sea and air traffic. The light was replaced in the 1970s with a low-maintenance light beacon. You can walk into the lighthouse but not the lantern room. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am-4pm. Call (808) 828-0168.
do it upside dow
let’s go flying
ZIP DIFFERENT! myhawaiitraveler.com
koloazipline.com | 808-742-2734 | koloazipline
KĪLAUEA POINT NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
A refuge for several species of seabirds, some nesting and some endangered, surrounds the lighthouse. Red-footed boobies, Laysan albatrosses, wedge-tailed shearwaters and the magnificent frigate bird with 7½-foot wingspan are just some examples of birds that can be seen at the refuge. Make reservations for the two-hour guided hikes through the refuge, available Monday through Thursday. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am-4pm. Admission is $3 per person; children under 16 are free. Call (808) 828-0168.
Beautiful botanical garden in a lush tropical valley is used to preserve native flora and fauna in its natural environment. It is also home to endangered plants. Built by early inhabitants, you can walk through the lava terraces and see the working taro patches in the ancient Hawaiian tradition. Reservations are required for guided tours. Self-guided tours are $15 for adults and free for children 12 and under. Wear comfortable walking shoes; umbrellas are provided (mosquito repellant may be necessary). Open Tuesday-Friday from 9:30am-4pm. Located on Rte 560 in Hä‘ena. Call (808) 826-1053 or ntbg.org.
NĀPALI COAST AND STATE PARK
The Kalalau Trail is an 11-mile trek through the spectacular Näpali Coast. From Kë‘ë to Hanakäpï‘ai Beach is about 2 miles. There is an uneven trail (for the physically fit) to a waterfall and freshwater river pool about 2 additional miles back of the Hanakäpï‘ai Valley. The park consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, high sea cliffs, lush valleys and amazing views. The hike beyond Hanakäpï‘ai can be strenuous and is suitable for experienced hikers only. There are several campsites in the park, but make plans well in advance since permits are limited and the wait list can be long. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is at the end of Hwy 56. Call (808) 274-3444 or visit hawaii.gov/dlnr/ dsp/fees.html for camping information.
WAI‘OLI MISSION HOUSE
Built in 1837, the missionary home is set in beautiful Hanalei Valley and was restored by descendants of the first missionaries Lucy and Abner Wilcox. The house was restored in 1921 by the granddaughter and houses historical furnishings made from koa wood. Located off Kuhio Hwy. Free. Open Tues., Thurs., and Sat. 9am-3pm. Call (808) 245-3202.
EAST SIDE FERN GROTTO
A beautiful, natural amphitheater of volcanic rock covered with enormous fishtail ferns, is the venue of choice for many weddings. The only way to reach the Fern Grotto is either to kayak upriver or book a boat ride. The latter has the reputation of being a bit cheeky and a tourist trap, but if you don’t feel like the exercise then be prepared to sing along. Nevertheless, you will enjoy the lush, tropical scenery along the way. Located in Wailua River State Park. 60
KAMOKILA HAWAIIAN VILLAGE
An authentic recreation of an ancient Hawaiian folk village illustrates ancient Hawaiian lifestyle on 3 acres of private land. The last king of Kaua‘i once resided here. Several huts and displays show how ancient Hawaiians lived, including a courtyard featuring Hawaiian games, such as spear throwing and Hawaiian bowling, which were essential in building skills. Admission: $5 adults, $3 children for self-guided tours. Located on the east shore of the Wailua River Valley at 6060 Kuamo‘o Road (Rte 580) across from Öpaeka‘a Falls. Call (808) 823-0559.
The serene 30-acre refuge with streams and freshwater pools is a perfect setting for a picnic surrounded by mountains and lush foliage. The arboretum is divided by the stream and has a variety of foliage including monkeypods, mango, eucalyptus trees, ‘öhi‘a lehua and hibiscus. Picnic areas and pavilions can be found throughout the area for your enjoyment. There are two short hiking trails through the park. You can access the trailheads for Kuilau-Ridge Trail (incredible views from this trail) and the Moalepe Trail from this area. Open sunrise to sunset. Located down the road from the Wailua Reservoir on Hwy 580. Call (808) 241-4463.
This beautiful waterfall is the easiest to view, as it tumbles out of the jungle into a dramatic plunge over a high cliff about a 150-feet into the Wailua River. The name means "rolling shrimp," for the days when swarms of shrimp were seen rolling in turbulent waters at the base of the falls. The best time to view the cascading falls is mid-morning, and the best view is from the path along the highway. Located in Wailua off Hwy 56 on Kuamo’o Rd (Rte. 580) at mile marker 6.
Royalty came to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the sacred birthstones of Pöhaku Ho‘ohönau. According to legend, if the child was to become a great chief, the heavens would rupture with thunder and lightning followed by rain. When the baby’s umbilical cord fell off, it was wrapped in kapa (cloth made from bark) and placed in the crevices of the Pöhaku Piko for safekeeping. Located Kuamo‘o Rd. (Rte. 580) in Wailua River State Park.
SLEEPING GIANT VIEWPOINT
This formation on Mt. Nounou that sort of resembles a giant is a landmark between Wailua and Kapa‘a. There are several myths and legends surrounding the Sleeping Giant. According to one, the villagers tricked a giant named Puni into eating stones to keep him from eating all the fish and taro, and he fell asleep with a full tummy, never to wake again. Mount Nounou Trail is about a two-mile trek through the forest to the summit of the Sleeping Giant’s belly with spectacular views of the Island and sometimes, O‘ahu can be seen 110 miles east. The hiking trail begins on Haleilio Road. To view the Sleeping Giant, look for the sign marking the viewing area near the Chevron station in Kapa‘a. Located off Hwy 56.
WAILUA RIVER STATE PARK
A popular place to spend a day for the wide range of activities, as well as the lush scenery of tropical foliage, Wailua River is the only navigable river in the state. Activities in the park include water skiing, kayaking, hiking trails, famous waterfalls, the Fern Grotto, an ancient Hawaiian Village, and seven sacred heiau and historic landmarks. At the mouth of the river, ancient petroglyph carvings on large stones can be seen depending on the amount of sand in the area. Once the banks were a favorite dwelling place for high chiefs and kings of Kaua‘i. If you want to kayak on your own without a guide, only three kayak rental companies rent kayaks for the Wailua River. Kayakers should stay on the right side of the river. No guided kayak tours are available on Sundays. Wailua River is located off Kuhio Hwy. Scenic views and historic sites can be accessed from Kuamo‘o Rd. Call (808) 241-4463
LI‘HUĒ & SOUTH SIDE ‘ALEKOKO (MENEHUNE) FISHPOND
Built for a young chief, this fishpond was unique in that it was built for the river instead of the coast like most others. The fishpond once covered 40 acres and consisted of a 900 ft. long wall that separated the fishpond from the stream, but today only remnants remain of the great wall. According to legend, the Menehune built the massive aquaculture facility in one night before sailing away on a floating island. Located off Hwy 50. Take Puhi Rd. to the end, and then turn left on Hulemalu Rd. The fishpond can be seen from the overlook.
GROVE FARM HOMESTEAD
The lovely plantation home was built in 1864 and opened as a living museum in 1978, featuring many displays and exhibits to paint the life of the sugar plantation days gone by. The historic home is beautifully furnished and has a staircase made from native koa wood. The grounds include giant trees and tropical flower gardens. Located south of Lihue on Highway 58. Admission is $20 and $10 for children 12 & under. Access is by tour only, which is offered twice a day Mon., Wed., and Thurs. at 10am and 1pm. Call (808) 245-3202 to make reservations in advance.
With artifacts, vintage photographs and exhibits, Kaua‘i Museum presents a factual look into Kaua‘i’s history. The galleries include a permanent collection of ancient Hawaiian artifacts. Located 4428 Rice Street. Admission is $10. Call (808) 245-6931 for information.
KUKUI O LONO PARK
Because the park is set on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. The tranquil park is a lovely place to have a romantic picnic with sweeping ocean views of Läwa‘i Valley. Kukui O Lono means light of the god Lono. Located on Papalina Road off Hwy 50 in Kaläheo.
The National Tropical Botanical Garden is an exceptional preserve and houses the world’s largest collection of rare and endangered plants, and includes the Allerton, McBryde and Limahuli (North Shore.) The gardens are stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre tropical retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. McBryde Garden is set in seclusion between rugged cliffs, making it ideal for learning about the native plants while viewing rare and endangered Hawaiian species. Call (808) 742-2623 or ntbg.org.
PRINCE KŪHĪO PARK
At Prince Kühïo Park you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He is known as “People’s Prince” because of his great accomplishments for native Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace with a statue. While here, you can see the Hoai Heiau, the foundation of Prince Kühïo’s home, and the royal fishpond. Located on Läwai Road.
KALALAU VALLEY LOOKOUT
The lookout provides panoramic views into the majestic valley—without breaking a sweat—from the 18 mile marker. It is one of the most spectacular views on earth with striking sea cliffs and the cobalt Pacific looks into the largest valley in Näpali. Kalalau Valley is dramatic, with jagged emerald ridges, and is best viewed in the morning to avoid the clouds. Further ahead is Pu‘u o Kila Lookout, which offers even more astonishing views of the valley and the deep blue ocean. Both lookouts are located at the end of the Köke‘e Road. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather information.
KŌKE‘E NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
This little museum provides interpretive programs and exhibitions about Kaua‘i’s climate, geology and ecology. The museum has great information about the forest, hiking trails and conditions and sells maps and local books. Located past the 15 mile marker off Köke‘e Road. Turn left after the park headquarters. The museum is next to Köke‘e Lodge just before the campground. Open everyday 10am-4pm. Free. Call (808) 335-9975 or visit kokee.org.
MENEHUNE DITCH (KĪKĪ A OLA)
Only remnants remain of what was once a great watercourse and aqueduct that extended 25 miles up the Waimea River—made from smooth lava stone
brought from Mokihana. Legend has it that the Menehune, race of little people, built the ditch in one night for the high chief of Waimea to irrigate the taro patches for Waimea residents for payment of shrimp. Archaeologists say the historic site was built before Polynesians came, possibly by the Menehune. Located off Hwy 50 on Menehune Rd. just before the 23mile marker.
WAIMEA CANYON LOOKOUT
The Grand Canyon of the Pacific is a breathtaking gaping gorge with dramatic ridges and deep ravines shaped by the steady process of erosion and collapse of the volcano that formed Kaua‘i. It is roughly 10 miles long and 3,600 feet deep. The canyon is spectacular and majestic with jewel-tone colors of reds and greens. Take the scenic but narrow drive on Waimea Canyon Drive (Rte 550) from Hwy 50, or turn up the steep Köke‘e Road at Kekaha. The two roads merge into Köke‘e Road after a few miles up. Waimea Canyon Lookout is between mile markers 10 and 11. Check out the spectacular vistas from scenic lookouts at Pu‘u Hina Hina (3,336 feet elevation), where the private island of Ni‘ihau can be seen on clear days, and Pu‘u Ka Pele where the Waipo‘o Falls are visible after a heavy rainfall. Be prepared for cooler weather, and make sure you have some fuel in your car. Waimea Canyon Drive ends at Kalalau Lookout about 4 miles above the park.
To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave. Located across from the National Tropical Botanical Garden on Läwai Road.
Giant eucalyptus trees planted over 150 years ago by Scotchman Walter Duncan McBryde create the Tree Tunnel, the gateway into Koloa and Po‘ipü. Turn south on Hwy 520, Maluhia Rd.
A stunning 80-foot tiered waterfall is easy to view close to the roadside lookout. Nicknamed the Fantasy Island waterfalls for the prominent opening scene of the falls for the hit television show. It’s best to view the falls in the morning when the sun adds to the beauty of the falls. The power of the falls depends on the rainfall. A slippery hike down a steep trail leads you to the bottom of the waterfalls for a cool swim. Located off Hwy 56, end of Ma‘alo Rd.
WEST SIDE CAPTAIN COOK’S MONUMENT
Captain James Cook, the British explorer, landed in Waimea Bay in January 1778 with his ships Resolution and Discovery, marking his first visit to the Hawaiian Islands. Facing the sea, a statue of Cook stands in Waimea to mark the historic event that would forever change Hawai‘i. Located in Hofgaard Park in the downtown area. myhawaiitraveler.com
SPORT + ADVENTURE
NATIONAL TROPICAL BOTANICAL GARDEN
NA WAIWAI The Ultimate Kaua‘i Adventure
amous playwright Henry Miller once wrote that, “One’s destination is never a place but rather a new way of looking at things.” This wise statement rings true in the heart of every modern traveler. These days, consciousness is a key factor when choosing our next epic adventure, as not only do we want to explore the world and all of its unique destinations, but also we want to delve deeper into the fascinating and rich cultures that these gorgeous locales are rooted within. Lucky for us, Hawaiÿi, and specifically the island of Kauaÿi, offers near endless opportunities to dive in to discover the abundant diversity of this small slice of paradise’s people, traditions, and effervescent aloha spirit.
WORDS ANDY BETH MILLER IMAGES KIT FURDERER
Also working in our favor, Holo Holo Charters also understands our desires to uncover the true essence of the Hawaiian Islands, from the ÿäina (land) to the kai (sea). To fulfill our desires, while also tapping into our thirst for adventure and excitement, Holo Holo has developed several curated cultural immersion tour offerings, infused with educational information that highlights the most fascinating facts about Kauaÿi, while also whisking you away on various treks that’ll really tickle your fancies. A recent addition to the Holo Holo repertoire is the fruition of a fantastic collaboration with the National Tropical Botanical Garden. Joining forces, this dynamic duo presents Na Waiwai: An Authentic Hawaiian “Land & Sea” Exploration, a curated adventure tour that KAUA‘I TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: HOLOHOLO CHARTERS/KIT FURDERER
allows visitors to witness the island’s natural ahupua‘a (land division), while exploring (via land and sea, of course) the most gorgeous gems of the Garden Isle. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves, as the real story here is the history behind this epic adventure tour. After all, it’s the intricately woven tales and tropical-inspired native flora and fauna, which whisks you back in time to ancient Polynesia. This makes the excursion through numerous Hawaiian haunts and traditions such an unforgettable and truly unique experience. Once upon a time (yes, this is a true fairytale), in a land faraway, with golden shores and crystal waters, where wildlife roamed freely on the lands and in the seas and mountains towered majestically, ancient Hawaiians lived in harmony with the earth. The islanders greatly revered the water within their valley streams and ocean waves, viewing it as the essence of life. They also respected and loved the land, setting up an ahupua‘a, which was a sustainable system that parceled out land from sea to mountain and responsibilities to all, acting as a sacred and non-verbal trust agreement, where inhabitants—neighbors and ‘ohana (family)—pledged to one another (and the earth itself) to kökua (cooperate together) in order to nurture, protect, and sustain their beautiful world and peaceful way of life. Native Hawaiians were not forced into this cooperative way of life, but instead joyfully adopted it, as they each saw their stewardship as being their sacred kuleana (responsibility). Infusing this joyful spirit into every thread of their community tapestry, Hawaiians fiercely protected their natural resources, which they knew were vital to everything from their physical sustenance to their shelter, and especially the thriving of their souls. Enter Na Waiwai: An Authentic Hawaiian “Land & Sea” Exploration, which was inspired by the cultural and historical significance, and is a celebration of this collaborative mindset, as well as all of the resources that the Native Hawaiians relied upon, and still do to this day. The guided tour, which generously donates 50 percent of all proceeds to the National Tropical Botanical Garden’s nonprofit, begins at the top of a majestic Kaua‘i mountain, winds its way down through a lush emerald-green valley that hosts more than 15,000 native Hawaiian plants, then pauses at a wondrous waterfall, where visitors will witness the beauty of a private hula show. After you’ve marveled at the graceful swaying hips of the hula dancers, your guide will lead you through a canoe garden, while regaling you with fascinating facts about how the first Polynesian voyagers used the stars to navigate their ships to shore. After this naval education, it is only fitting that your tour would end with an idyllic sunset dinner sail, complete with traditional Hawaiian music and an island-inspired buffet on board. By the time your tour is complete, you will deeply understand why the tour was named Na Waiwai (which literally translates as “treasured values”). As you return to your hotel, gratitude, increased awareness, and a carefully curated sense of renewed consciousness will be yours, delivered with much aloha and fast on the heels of one epic adventure. To experience a more meaningful adventure and discover the true beauty of Kauaÿi, take the Na Waiwai tour to appreciate the rich history, culture and traditions that make Hawaiÿi a unique destination. For reservation or more info, call (808) 335-0815 or visit holoholocharters.com. myhawaiitraveler.com
CRUISE PARADISE WITH A BUDDY Adopt a dog for a day to explore around the island WORDS ANDY BETH MILLER
ou’ve finally done it. The vacation days have patiently been accrued, and hard-earned dollars have been carefully set aside each month, all in preparation for your dream vacation in paradise. Perhaps you’ve even purchased that trendy bathing suit you’ve seen in multiple fashion magazines. After settling into your temporary tropical home, you are ready to hit the beach and chillax. As you lay on the sparkling white sand, feeling the sun’s warmth on your face and the sand between your toes, you clearly feel it…THIS…is happiness. I’d hazard to guess that the famous and beloved American cartoonist, Charles M. Schulz, who was responsible for creating the beloved Peanuts comic strip, featuring our favorite droopyeared canine, Snoopy, might agree that your vacation does indeed sound idyllic. But, his ideas about what brings happiness are a bit fuzzy—literally. In Schulz’s words, “Happiness is a warm puppy.” But, what if you could have the best of both worlds? A dream vacation that you have been mooning over for months, yet also share that happiness with a four-legged friend that will adore you? Consider it happiness shared—even when in paradise, being away from home can feel solitary. And what’s the best cure for loneliness? Unconditional love. And what can offer a near limitless supply of affection? Survey (and Snoopy’s dad) says! Puppies. Luckily, for those spending their vacations on the sun-dappled shores of the Garden Isle, the Kauai Humane Society (KHS) has created a program that makes this match made in heaven possible, simply by encouraging you to go on a field trip, taking Fido with you, of course. Laura L. Lee, Development Director at KHS, explains, “The Field Trip Program started in 2012, and was actually suggested to us by a tourist. The program allows people, mostly tourists, to take a dog out on an outing, and experience Kaua‘i with the dog that they select.” Lee goes on to describe that “the field trips are a wonderful way for those travelers who have left their dogs at home to get their ‘dog fix,’ while providing a way for others to ‘pay it forward,’ doing something thoughtful.” Participating in the program is as easy as 123. First, simply stop by the shelter during the designated program hours (Monday and Saturday 10am to 4pm, and Tuesday to Friday 11am to 6pm). Second, introduce yourself to the program volunteers, who then will introduce you to a selection of the cutest furry animals. (Disclaimer: Prepare to have your heart utterly stolen). Third, choose the puppy that has most captured your fancy and be outfitted with all of the supplies that you will need, courtesy of
PHOTO COURTESY: (ALL) KAUA‘I HUMANE SOCIETY
KHS. They even dress your dog for your date in a snazzy “Adopt Me” vest. After that, you are free to roam the island at will, now accompanied with an instant (and affectionate) best buddy. KHS even offers you a list of dog-friendly spots, should you want some advice on the best places to visit. “You can tell that the dogs are excited around field trip time, as they stand in front of the kennel and wag their tails!” Lee shares. “We have so many stories to tell. Most of our dogs that get to experience a field trip have never worn a collar or walked on a leash. Others do not even know what a treat or cookie is. Our dogs get to experience one-on-one time with a family or individual, whether it be a walk, hiking in Waimea Canyon, or experiencing sand in between their paws. People who participate all volunteer their time and vacation to make a dog happy for a day.” But, enquiring minds want to know, “What if you spend that entire day falling completely in love with your furry new friend?” Lee assures us that’s absolutely okay. “Most of our dogs come back to the shelter ‘dog-tired,’ dreaming of their next excursions, while some win the hearts of the people who took them out and are forever their souvenir from Kaua‘i,” she says. In fact, since starting the program, KHS estimates that around 360 dogs have been adopted and now live with their new families all over the world. “On average, we adopt four dogs a month to visitors who meet the love of their life at our shelter. It’s affordable, and we are happy to help with the process.” And, while the program is specifically geared towards tourists who are traveling through, Lee is quick to point out that local island residents are also more than welcome to stop by and swoop up a furry friend for a field trip as well. The proof of what a profound and wonderful impact the program has had on people is evident, as KHS is daily inundated with a welcome barrage of letters, emails, and phone calls, all detailing the delightful days that participants—and pups—were able to spend via the field trip program. Many of those who write in even attach candid photos, either taken from the day of the field trip—playing fetch, stopping for a snack, climbing a mountain trail—or snapped in their new homes, cuddled close to their new adopted ‘ohana (family). For more information on how you can participate or donate, visit www.kauaihumane.org or call (808) 632-0610. myhawaiitraveler.com
THE NORTH SHORE The North Shore is tranquil and draped in velvety green, with waterfalls cascading from heaven into a verdant valley and the sounds of gentle surf. At the top of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale sits Alaka‘i Swamp. From this wetland, streams of water flow to the beaches below. Along its journey, the water engraves deep, lush valleys, creating a fertile landscape for the cultivation of various crops on Kaua‘i’s North Shore. The Hawaiians divided this area into three land divisions: Ko‘olau, Halele‘a, and Nāpali. 68
KO‘OLAU The rural communities of Moloa‘a and Kïlauea lay in the ahupua’a of Ko‘olau. Due to its isolation, the beach community of Moloa‘a is often overlooked by visitors. Just ten minutes north of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a Bay is a great place for swimming, snorkeling or reading a book. Unlike the rocky beaches of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a offers golden sand and turquoise water. Kïlauea is a former sugar plantation town. The most frequented visitor attraction here is the Kïlauea Lighthouse. The lighthouse is located on a 203-acre national wildlife refuge. Many migratory birds, such as the Pacific Golden Plover, the Laysan Albatross, and the Nënë propagate here. Sometimes you may even see humpback whales, Hawaiian monk seals and spinner dolphins. HALELE‘A Six small beach towns make up the district of Halele‘a. Kalihi Wai is the first and is primarily known for its surf break. Kalihi Wai means “with a stream,” which is fitting, being that it’s next to one. Spend an afternoon kayaking up Kalihi Wai stream. ‘Anini Beach is just across the river. A bridge once connected the two towns until a tidal wave washed it away in 1957. Vacation homes line the beach here and the ocean stays relatively calm due to a wide fringing reef surrounding it. Windsurfing is very popular here. Up the road is Princeville, the Bel-Air of Kaua‘i. This lavish town sits on a plateau that extends from the upper mountains to lower sea cliffs. A short hike down one of these cliffs will take you to Queen’s Bath, a large protected saltwater pond. Princeville offers many amenities that Hanalei doesn’t (like a
gas station), so fill’er up and head on down to Hanalei. Hanalei is what Kaua‘i probably looked like in the 1800s. Make sure to stop at the Hanalei Valley Lookout, where you’ll find acres of taro fields covering the valley floor. Be on the look out for Beefalo (half cow, half buffalo). Hanalei has become a popular destination for visitors and surfers, and offers some of the largest waves on the island. The water is temperamental, so take heed to any posted warnings. If you can’t swim in the ocean, the Hanalei River feeds into the bay and provides a short but sweet kayak adventure. The valley of Wainiha is believed to be the last hideout of the Menehune, a race of little people. Along this narrow valley lie the remains of old home sites, heiau and taro patches. When you’ve reached the end of the road, you’ve reached Hä‘ena. Explore the wet and dry caves of Waikanaloa, Waikapala‘e and Maniniholo (dry). View Ka Ulu a Paoa, a distinguished hula heiau and discover the underwater sea caves at Kë‘ë Beach. More than likely you’ll end up spending longer than a day here. NÄPALI For the truly adventurous, the district of Näpali is only accessible by foot. The majestic park and coastline consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, dramatic sea cliffs, lush verdant valleys and amazing views. If you plan on doing the 22-mile round trip hike to Kalalau Valley, be prepared. First and foremost, secure a camping permit. Second, pack your bags rationally and third, train! If 22 miles is a bit too adventurous, there are many enjoyable day hikes around the area. Remember, always check the weather conditions before going anywhere.
WHALE OF A SIGN UNDERSTANDING THE HUMPBACKS' IMPRESSIVE DISPLAYS
WORDS ANDREW WALSH
oom! Splash! Boom! Splash! Boom, splash bellows the humpback! If you listen carefully, you can hear it. Just sit at the water’s edge, with your feet in the sand and eyes on the horizon. It’s the sounds of a koholä (humpback whale) calling across the blue. They are said to be the greatest form of Kanaloa, the primordial deity for the ocean, sea creatures, and all growth on earth and in the sea. Listen for the pounding thumps, pulsing like the Hawaiian drumbeats of antiquity, calling us back to the waters from which the ancients came. Boom! Splash! Boom! Splash! Boom! Splash! Over and over, echoing across the waves of time and oceans. But these are not the rhythmic drumbeats of sea foraging canoes or mighty King Kamehameha as he sails to unite his Hawaiian kingdom. Nor is it the sound of modern steel ships cleaving the ocean, pounding up and down as blue waves and rusted iron collide. No, it’s an even more ancient vessel. The boom-splash is the powerful resonance of one of the strongest muscles in the animal kingdom—the humpback whale. The humpback rears its flukes (tail fins) high into the Hawaiian sky, up from the water’s depths and then smashes them down upon the waves for all who can hear, for all who are listening to its mighty tale of tails. A graceful display of forthright fury, over and over, the humpback will pound its massive flukes against the water’s surface until satisfied its message, its goal, its purpose is fulfilled. Scientists call it “lobtailing,” but what message or meaning it serves is known only to the whales. Boom! Splash! Boom! Splash! Boom! Splash! Could it be a simple call to any humpbacks in the area to say, “Here I am, here I go, here is where I came from?” Is it a signal to fight, or not fight, saying, “Hear the power I possess to any who would challenge my stature?” Most mammals during mating season tend to display a bit of showing-off especially when love is in the air. Could it be just plain fun? Maybe its a colossal itch that needs scratching and how better to itch a 30,000-lb. tail without a backscratcher? Surprisingly, little is known as to what these behaviors that humpbacks display truly mean, but we have a few ideas. In their cold feeding grounds off Alaska, lobtailing is often observed alongside a complex and clever method of fishing called “bubble72
netting.” Humpbacks over-pressurize their 2,500-gallon lungs (in less than 2 seconds) and dive deep under schools of soon-to-be-eaten fish. Skillfully, the humpback travels in large concentric circles around the school releasing air from its blowhole. The streams of air create walls of bubble-nets that scare the fish into tighter and tighter circles. The less-agile hunter tightens the bubble rings until a critical mass of fish stands ripe for the taking. In a massive display of size and strength the humpback uses its immense pectoral and fluke fins to catapult up through the torrent of confused and confined fish. Opening its mouth wide and scooping up 2,000 gallons of water, the whale quickly slams the gates shut and then push-filters the water out through its 270-400 baleen plates (filament-type bristles) trapping the doomed prey. So we might say lobtailing is part of a feeding behavior. Perhaps it serves to keep the scared school of fish from jumping out and over the bubble net. However, humpbacks also lobtail here in Hawaiÿi where they come to calf and mate, yet they do not eat. That’s right, over their 6-month journey, which includes one of the longest migration routes of any animal ever to have lived, 3,000 miles across the largest ocean on earth, humpback whales rely only on the energy stored in the 12 inches of blubber encapsulating their 90,000-lb. frames. Keeping in mind they swim continuously for 6-8 weeks each way, that is one long fast. If you aren’t impressed by humpbacks, you’re either a blue whale (which is much bigger) or not much impresses you! But what then does lobtailing mean if not a specialized feeding behavior? Studies of other whale species have shown it often plays a role in social dynamics within whale communities. We know that whales are complex, social creatures, capable of melodic vocal languages and even distinct cultures throughout the world. They regularly complete feats of navigation modern science can’t explain or replicate without complex technology, instrumentation, and a scientific understanding of celestial objects. So maybe when a whale slaps its tail on the water it has a good reason, as humpbacks are clearly capable of reasoning. And what better reasons do any of us have than sweet, irrational love! Energetically speaking, a tail slap is a bad idea if you haven’t eaten in four months. The tail weighs upwards of 30,000 lbs. It’s a workout for the humpback to raise itself upright out of the water KAUA‘I TRAVELER
and defy the laws or gravity, social conformity, and the dynamic energy-budgeting theory. But the heart wants what the heart wants. Sometimes we spend all our money on that perfect gift for that perfect someone. Sometimes we spend all our mental energy thinking and all our physical energy chasing, even though it exhausts us to the core. And sometimes we slap our tails on the water, despite how energetically expensive, or perhaps because how energetically expensive it is, to show the riches and power we can offer. And who can’t relate—it’s better to have loved and lost some blubber, than never to have loved at all. The whole reason humpbacks come to the nutrient-poor waters surrounding Hawaiÿi is the safe tropical haven these waters provide for birthing, calving, and mating. So it would seem to make some sense that these displays are a form of communication related to their domestic agenda. The tail slap is a visceral feeling reverberating through the water column, as any who have seen and felt it intuitively understand. When a humpback lobtails, you stare in silent awe and maybe that’s the point. And yet this magnificent display is just one of many behaviors humpbacks employ regularly around each other. One of their most inquisitive behaviors is spyhopping. Humpbacks will lift just their massive heads out of the water and peak around. Bobbing upright in the water, they kick their flukes to hold themselves in position, giving the appearance of floating vertically. I’ve had many curious whales swim up and spyhop right next to me. Amazingly, they have looked me straight in the eye. Their large brown kidney shaped pupils darting up and down me. I naturally felt a social connection, to what appeared to be another sentient being just checking me out, processing, thinking, it naturally compelled me to say “Hey,” as if not doing so was somehow rude. It’s clear whales have a lot to say through vocal and body language. What they are saying remains less clear, but also less mysterious the more we study and the more we allow space for them to swim alongside us. There is no doubting the great powers they posses as gravity-defying aerial acrobats, masters of great ocean passages, and lobtailing maestros. Yet looking at a humpback, eye-to-eye, one can’t ignore the greater mana (spiritual power) that transcends science and species. In the presence of humpbacks, I’ve seen even the most seasoned scientists and the most intellectual researchers drop what they are doing and return, ever so briefly, to the wide-eyed kids that once gazed out and saw nothing but wonder in the world. I hope you experience the wonder and magic that can be heard and seen out on the ocean. And I hope it sparks that innate curiosity that whales and humans both possess. Years of scientific study tell me we need whales as much as whales need us. We both share a vital role and dependence on the movement of nutrients and resources flowing between our ecosystems and within our warm blood, without which neither of our cultures, communities, and lives can exist. Years of spending time listening, watching, and advocating for whales has taught me the magic of realizing we are perhaps not the only curious and, dare I say, conscious creatures that call this blue planet home. Boom! Splash! Boom! Splash! Boom! Splash! Like the beat of our hearts, it’s the pulse of a planet alive and well—it’s the sound of our future we must protect. We got here together borne of a shared past, how could it be that we could move forward apart? So listen to the whales, listen to yourself, and keep the beat going. myhawaiitraveler.com
ADDITIONAL COMMON WHALE BEHAVIORS
Pectoral Slapping Whales will raise one or both of their large (up to 15-ft.) pectoral fins into the air and slap them down on the water repetitively, much like lobtailing. Evidence indicates that this is once again a form of communication between whales. Breaching Breaching is one of the most exciting behaviors that humpbacks regularly display. Most or all of the body is propelled up and out of the water until gravity pulls the massive whale back to the surface in an enormous whale-sized splash. It is thought that this behavior serves to communicate, attract other whales, or warn off other mating whales. There are many distinct variations of breaching as well (chin, spinning head, tail breach). Blow Whales clear their blowhole of water and mucous each time they surface. It appears as a tall spout of vaporized air. Unlike humans, whales need to think to breathe, so at times of rest they alternate shutting down each side of their brains for a half sleep, half conscious state. This allows them to continuously breathe and remain alert while simultaneously sleeping. myhawaiitraveler.com
Fluke Dive An arch of the back and raising of the flukes high in the air resulting in a dive. Generally whales stay underwater for some time after a fluke dive. Logging Logging is when a whale lies horizontally at or just below the surface without swimming in what appears to be a resting state. Singing/Vocalization Even above the water it is possible to hear whales sing. Of course below the water is where the real action is. Whales songs are a series of sounds repeated over time in specific patterns known as “phrases.” These phrases are also repeated over and over to form a “theme.” Each song is composed of several themes that get repeated sequentially. Songs last anywhere from five minutes to half an hour. Whales will often repeat their song over many hours. The songs in Hawaiÿi come only from male whales either escorting females, swimming alone, or most commonly suspended companionless in the “singing position.” Pacific humpbacks, regardless of where they migrate to (Central America, Asia, or Hawaiÿi), all sing the same constantly evolving melodic language. 75
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82 THE HOT SPOT 84 WHAT WE LOVE NOW 87 BEYOND VANILLA 90 SPRING SIPPERS 92 EAT DAILY
Ceviche at Tidepools
IMAGE COURTESY: DANIEL LANE
78 ISLAND DINING GUIDE
GO Hyatt® and Grand Hyatt® names, designs and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2018 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.
GRAND T I D E P O O L S AT G R A N D H YAT T K A U A I —
Ahh, the romance of a tiki-torch lit dinner in thatched roof bungalows floating above a koi-filled lagoon. Here you’ll find stellar service and contemporary Hawaiian cuisine featuring the freshest of fish and succulent steaks crafted with a distinct island flair. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456, visit tidepoolskauai.com or book online at opentable.com.
KAUA‘I DINING SOUTH SHORE DONDERO’S Dondero’s will satisfy your soul as well as your appetite. The elegant ambiance and stellar service makes this a dining favorite for those with discriminating taste. The menu is designed as an Italian tasting menu, offering complimentary flavors and contrasting textures with a large selection of appetizers, homemade pastas, fresh fish, chicken, lamb and beef specialties. This light, modern Italian cuisine is carefully paired with wines from all over the world. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. EATING HOUSE 1849 BY ROY YAMAGUCHI The Eating House 1849 pays homage to Hawai‘i’s vibrant culinary heritage, a nod to restaurateurs like Peter Fernandez who, the story goes, opened one of the first restaurants in Hawai‘i. Called the Eating House, back in the mid-1800s, using what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and shermen. It’s here that award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi blends these two worlds: the easy ambiance and simple flavors of a plantation town with
the dynamic modernity of haute cuisine. Located at the Shops at Kukui‘ula. Call (808) 742-5000 for reservations. STEVENSON'S SUSHI & SPIRITS The warm woods and intimate seating areas of this classic lounge create a welcoming atmosphere. Take a seat at the 27-foot, hand crafted koa wood bar or sink into a cozy chair or sofa in the booked lined room. Chef Jay creates delectable sushi creations nightly in this unique Kaua‘i bar boasting an extensive selection of Whiskies, Cognac and Port in addition to creative martinis and delectable tropical drinks. Enjoy a game of pool, backgammon or chess. Scrumptious sushi rolls are sure to please. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA The Shops at Kukui‘ula has become known as the premier dining destination on Kaua‘i for its selection of casual and fine dining experiences in a beautiful plantation style setting. Merriman’s Fish House and Eating House 1849 feature renowned Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine Chefs Peter Merriman and Roy
Yamaguchi while Tortilla Republic and Dolphin Sushi bring contemporary flair to Mexican and seafood cuisine. Casual options include Bubba Burgers, Living Foods Market & Café, Merriman’s Gourmet Pizza & Burgers, and TR Taqueria & Margarita Bar as well as local favorites Uncle’s Shave Ice and Lappert’s Hawai‘i. Check out the weekly Kaua‘i Culinary Market, Wednesdays, 3:30 to 6pm, with a cooking demo at 5pm. Visit theshopsatkukuiula.com. TIDEPOOLS For the ultimate in ambiance, Tidepools is the place. With a backdrop of waterfalls, these thatched roof hale seemingly float above koi filled lagoons providing a distinctive open-air setting in which to savor contemporary Hawaiian style cuisine. Diners rave about the fresh island fish and steak options including macadamia nut crusted mahimahi, grilled opah, organic steak, or Hawaiian salt and garlic rubbed prime rib. Salads feature fresh island-greens and the desserts are luscious. Don’t miss this delightful experience. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. LĪHU‘E KUKUI’S Features a Pacific Rim gourmet buffet in an outdoor setting, plus American and local specialties. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Located poolside at the Marriott Kaua‘i Beach Resort. Located at 3610 Rice Street. Call (808) 245-5050. WAILUA - EAST SIDE KOREAN BBQ RESTAURANT Authentic Korean food with great Korean BBQ like galbi, chicken and pork served with soup, kimchee, vegetables and rice. Delicious Korean plates like shrimp tempura, Korean chicken, Mahi or meat jun (marinated mahi or ribeye dipped in egg and fried), bi bim bap (rice bowl with veggies and your choice of meat) and favorites like katsu, fried rice, noodles and dumplings all reasonably priced. Open Mon.-Sun. 11am-9pm. Kinipopo Shopping Village in Wailua. 4-356 Kuhio Hwy Building #E. (808) 823-6744. NAUPAKA TERRACE Inspired by the natural beauty of the Garden Island, Kauai Beach Resort creates unforgettable dining experiences that delight your senses. Indulge in delicious island specialties, fresh seafood, refreshing tropical drinks and live music as you gaze at the coastline and sparkling ocean. Dine on island cuisine at Naupaka Terrace, one of the top restaurants on Kaua‘i, enjoy a poolside snack at Driftwood Bar & Grille, and enjoy refreshing drinks and island music nightly at Shutters Lounge. Located at the Kauai Beach Resort. Call (808) 245-1955.
GO Hyatt® and Grand Hyatt® names, designs and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2018 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.
GRAND S T E V E N S O N ’ S L I B R A R Y AT G R A N D H YAT T K A U A I — Poipu’s luxury nightspot offers sweeping views, scrumptious sushi, inventive cocktails, tropical drinks, aged whiskies, cognacs and ports. Sushi rolled nightly 6:00-10:00pm. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456 or book online at opentable.com.
OYSTER 369 Oyster 369 is an intimate upscale eatery focusing on fresh seafood and shellfish - raw, chilled and brickoven roasted. Whether enjoying a rotating selection of oysters on the half shell, Iced Shellfish Platters featuring locally grown Maine lobsters, Dungeness Crab, Peel-n-Eat Shrimp, Oysters & Clams, or sizzling hot Mussels from the wood-fired brick-oven, you are certain to enjoy the freshness and inspired cuisine. An exciting wine list as well as 26 taps of craft beers, compliment the seafood delicacies. Nestled just next door to the burger joint Street Burger, Oyster 369 is 80
open evenings from 5pm, Tuesday through Saturday, and is sure to delight your tastebuds. Located at 4-369 Kuhio Hwy, Kapa‘a. Call (808) 212-1555 for more information or oyster369.com. NORTH SHORE NALU KAI GRILL AND BAR Enjoy light Hawaiian influenced cuisine and sophisticated tropical libations in the shade of our gazebo or in the privacy of our dining cabanas. Should your preference be relaxing poolside soaking up the Hawaiian sunshine we feature a special poolside menu. Indulge the refinement of our unique offerings at the bar while enjoying breathtaking views overlooking Hanalei bay. Located at the Princeville Resort. KAUAI GRILL A comfortable yet elegant hideaway—signature Jean-Georges sophistication realized far from home. Sweeping views of Hanalei bay and Bali Hai surround Kauai Grill, the latest in creative dining experiences from Michelin awarded Jean-George Vongerichten. Kauai Grill combines a curated selection of JeanGeorges’ greatest appetizers, side dishes and accompaniments from his portfolio of domestic and international restaurants around the world with
the highest quality of meats and freshest local fish available. Simply grilled preparations accompanied by bold condiments anchor the Kauai Grill experience at the Princeville Resort. Open Tuesday-Saturday 6pm10pm. For reservations call (808) 826-9644. MAKANA TERRACE Overlooking magical Hanalei Bay and Makana Mountain is the main dining room at the Princeville Resort, Makana Terrace, the perfect venue for sophisticated casual all day dining. The menus showcase the freshest Hawaiian grown produce flawlessly represented in the dishes prepared by the Executive Chef and his culinary team. On Wednesdays, The Mailani dinner experience captures the essence of Halele’a, through chant, hula and storytelling. Journey with us overlooking Hanalei Bay as we reveal the mystery of this special place. Mailani, is an elegant Hawaiian dining experience that honors the culture and traditions of Kaua’i. Dinner ThursdayMonday, Wednesdays for Mailani, Dinner Show. Located at the Princeville Resort. Call (808) 826-2746 for reservations.
PHOTO COURTESY: JASON PHILLIPS PHOTOGRAPHY
STREET BURGER Street Burger is Wailua’s hippest urban-chic eatery, offering handcrafted, locally-sourced burgers, hand-cut fries, and the east side’s largest selection of local and craft beers on tap, accompanied by a fun, exciting wine list. Come dine at this upscale burger-joint—pull up a stool at the chef’s counter or relax on the patio with sweeping views of Sleeping Giant. Open for lunch and dinner, Street Burger will excite your taste buds, and satisfy your craving for an American classic. Enjoy with friends, family or just a quick bite on your way home. Located at 4-369 Kuhio Hwy, Kapa‘a. Call (808) 2121555 for more information or streetburgerkauai.com.
YOUR TA S T E B U D S DESERVE A V A C AT I O N .
Enjoy local and responsibly sourced ingredients at all six restaurants, as well as farm to table menus, legendary steak and seafood dishes, light and healthy options, and of course, delectable desserts.
Kauai Marriott Resortâ€™s dining selections range from casual oceanside cocktails and snacks to true ďŹ ne dining.
OYSTER 369 I
ntimate, with only 13 seats, Oyster 369 is infusing the culinary scene of Kaua‘i with new takes on classic dishes by offering flavor combinations sure to excite all the senses. Whether savoring sensuous raw oysters on the half shell or indulging in a dish of seafood imparted with a smoky finish from their wood-burning oven, guests at Oyster 369 will be delighted by Chef Aaron Leikam’s original and exciting pairings of seasonal ingredients and innovative preparations. Leikam, of Street Burger success, created Oyster 369 with the intent of offering another component to the dining experiences he was providing his guests at his handcrafted upscale burger-joint. This native of Arlington, Texas and graduate of the Culinary Institute of America’s Hyde Park campus, spent a considerable amount of his time in the Pacific Northwest and wanted to share the love of oysters, shellfish, 82
WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO
and seafood that he gained there with the people of Kauaÿi, adding a fresh perspective to the culinary offerings available. The daily rotation of oysters presented on their menu changes with seasonality and availability ranging from Kusshi oysters from Vancouver Island, British Columbia, that are heralded for their plump meat and delicate flavors, to the briny and powerful Misty Point oysters from Smith Island, Virginia. The fresh oysters are served alongside Chef Leikam’s three homemade sauces: Snortin’ Hot Cocktail Sauce, housemade Tabasco, and his elegant Champagne Mignonette whose sharp acidity refines the flavor of the oysters. Along with 26 taps boasting a selection of 22 beers, 2 house wines, cider, and root beer, Oyster 369 also offers an extensive wine list culled with selections from across the globe that allows guests to create KAUA‘I TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: OYSTER 369
out of this world pairings with the succulent oysters. One stellar bottling to pair with nearly every type of oyster offered on their menu is the Scharffenberger Brut Excellence NV ($42 per bottle) from Mendocino County, California. This dry, sparkling wine offers a complex and intricate palate of toasted almonds and butter against a mild fruity vein that refreshes the palate with bursts of Bartlett pears, figs, mandarin oranges, and a lemon freshness. Their signature vinification techniques result in a velvet-smooth wine full of finesse that can withstand the creamy fleshiness of oysters and the robust sauces offered. For dishes to share, Chef Leikam offers a variety of poke (seasoned raw fish) and crudo (Italian raw fish dishes) for guests to enjoy. His locally inspired Poke Bowl 2 offers guests an opportunity to relish in flavors of the world with preparations that originated in the islands. Beginning with a bed of steamed rice, Chef Leikam adds gently chopped bits of ‘ahi (yellowfin tuna), crisp cucumber, succulent wedges of oranges, and diced sweet onion that has been blended with a generous portion of flavorful extra virgin olive oil, fragrant mint and cilantro leaves, and his own blend of kimchee vinaigrette to create a dish bursting with both freshness and flavor. Other menu notables include Skillet Roasted Mussels with garlic, herbs and chili lime butter, Roasted Clams with chorizo, red onion, tomato, white wine and rosemary and Oysters Rockefeller with spinach, fennel, Pernod, and parsley. For the burger aficionado, order the extravagant surf and turf Oyster 369 Burger made with local Makaweli beef patty topped with half lobster along with spinach, hollandaise and old bay fizzled onions. And for those wishing to celebrate with one of the finest offerings the kitchen of Oyster 369 has to offer, their Shellfish Platter will awe all in its presence. Boasting fresh oysters and clams on the half shell, Maine lobster tails raised off the coast of Kona, sweet Dungeness crab legs and claws, and their Peel & Eat Shrimp along with their signature homemade sauces and freshly drawn garlic butter. This spectacular dish offers the finest bounty from the sea executed precisely to heighten each element’s tender and unique flavors. A perfect spot to drop in for a romantic date night or a place to gather with friends, Oyster 369 offers the finest seafood on the island and flavors found nowhere else. Oyster 369 is located at 4-369 Kühiö Highway, in Kapaÿa. Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 5pm. Call (808) 212-1555 or visit www.oyster369.com. myhawaiitraveler.com
WHAT WE LOVE NOW
Extravagant does not even begin to describe the experience you’ll enjoy when indulging in the Red Salt Burger created by Executive Chef Noelani Planas at Red Salt where modern cuisine can be enjoyed in their sophisticated yet casual atmosphere. Chef Planas begins with a patty made from freshly ground Snake River Farms Wagyu Sirloin that is loved for its buttery texture, complex flavors, hint of sweetness and lingering finish. Once cooked over an open flame, the plump patty is topped with a generous portion of seared foie gras and a dazzling piece of butter-poached Kona lobster meat. Sweet and sour pineapples come next followed by a thick cut of smoked bacon, sweet caramelized onions, and sharp aged cheddar. Chef’s housemade Garlic & Gold Aioli finish the burger tying the entire dish together with its creamy texture set against savory whispers of garlic. Served with freshly made truffle french fries, the Red Salt Burger is an epic answer to your hunger cravings. Red Salt is located at Koÿa Kea Hotel & Resort on Poÿipü Road in Köloa. Dinner served nightly from 5pm to 9pm, drinks in the lounge until 10:30 pm. Call (877) 276-0768 for more information or reservations.
SUSHI WITH A VIEW
A sleek setting and breathtaking views of Kalapakï Bay await those who dine with the expert sushi chefs at Toro-Tei Sushi Bar at the Kaua‘i Marriott Resort. Guests can begin their experience by enjoying a steaming bowl of savory miso (fermented soy bean) soup and fried shrimp tempura (battered and deep-fried) before transitioning to the sushi rolls prepared fresh and to-order for each customer. The Toro-Tei Special blends traditional sushi techniques with local flavors by wrapping fresh shrimp, creamy avocado, and unagi (freshwater eel) in seasoned sushi rice, which is then topped with a mixture of crab meat and seasonings before a quick broil to warm the roll. For guests wanting a rice-less roll, their Crispy Anuenue begins with pieces of ÿahi (yellowfin tuna), salmon, and hamachi (Japanese amberjack) that is panko-crusted and fried, and served with a housemade wasabi (Japanese horseradish) aioli. And for those wanting a vegetarian option, the chefs at Toro-Tei offer their Vegetable Temaki, which begins with a bed of brown rice on which grilled shiitake mushrooms, blanched asparagus, fried tofu (soy bean curd), edamame (soy beans), and avocado are added and served along side shoyu (soy sauce) and wasabi. Toro-Tei Sushi Bar is located at the Kaua‘i Marriott Resort on 3610 Rice Street in Lïhuÿe. Call (808) 245-5050. Open Thursday to Monday from 5:30pm to 9pm. myhawaiitraveler.com
TRUCK, YEAH Dubbed the place on the island to get “aloha in a bun,” award-winning Porky’s Kauai is serving up generous servings of local comfort food to both locals and visitors alike. One of their top offerings is their Pineapple Sausage that begins with grilled pineapple-infused pork sausage that is topped with slow roasted kälua pork, freshly cut pineapple, and grilled onions. Before serving, their Pineapple Sausage is topped with Porky’s bbq Sauce (sweet or sweet & spicy) and served in a toasted cheese french roll. For those craving something more traditional, their Beef Dog is a great option. Beginning with a 100% grilled all beef hot dog and topped with their handcrafted kälua pork, the Beef Dog is then topped with pineapple and grilled onions, signature bbq sauce before being loaded into their toasted cheese french rolls. And for those wanting a nostalgic childhood favorite with a twist, their Grilled Cheese is something to satisfy cravings any day of the week. Two pieces of their toasted cheese bread is loaded with a combo of Havarti and Muenster cheese before being topped with their tender kälua pork and grilled onions, and served with their signature bbq sauce on the side. Porky’s Kauai is at 9630 Kaumualiÿi Hwy in Waimea Tuesday thru Thursday from 11am to 4pm, and open from 11am to 3pm on Fridays and Saturday. Porky’s Kauai is at the Hanapepe Art Walk on Fridays from 5:30pm to 8:30pm. Call (808) 631-3071 or visit PorkysKauai.com.
SEAFOOD DELIGHT Known for their superb seafood and gourmet vegetarian cuisine, the chefs at Postcards Cafe offer a stunning arrangement of crowd favorites on their Postcards Platter that can satisfy seafood cravings for everyone at your table. The impressive assorted platter begins with their signature seafood filled rockets that are lightly fried and begging to be dipped in the coconut curry served alongside. Scrumptious crab cakes chock full of lumps of tender crab meat are sure to delight, as well as the spice-crusted seared ÿahi (yellowfin tuna), which begins with fresh filets of local fish crusted with a proprietary blend of spices that enhance the delicate sweetness of the fish. The platter is finished with servings of their famous Hanalei taro fritters and served with an array of sauces like their housemade pineapple chutney and assorted relishes. In an effort to aim for the highest standard of food and service, the kitchens at Postcards Cafe use no meats, poultry, refined sugars, or chemical additives to create dishes that are both fresh and abundant in organic ingredients capturing the true taste of the island. Postcards Café is located at 5-5075 Kühiö Hwy in Hanalei. Dinner nightly from 5:30pm to 9pm. Call (808) 826-1191 or visit PostcardsCafe.com. 86
PHOTO COURTSY: (TOP) PORKY'S KAUAI; (BOTTOM) POSTCARDS CAFE
Growing the vine divine on the Garden Isle WORDS MARY TROY JOHNSTON
t is the kind of story that one imagines about paradise. Lisa Parker and Roland Barker, husband and wife, are co-owners of Tiny Isle, a sweets company, and their more recent enterprise, The Vanillery of Kauai. The Vanillery supplies their homemade vanilla extract to their chocolate products. How their story with vanilla began resembles something one would read in an old-fashioned children’s fairy tale book. Over many decades ago, likely in the 1960s, a vine was planted on the mauka (mountain) side of Kapa‘a on the east side of Kaua‘i. Whether she knew it at the time, the auspicious gardener was making a gift to future generations. Some 14 years ago, Lisa and Roland came to Kaua‘i with the idea of caring for the land his grandmother had passed on to the family, the same woman who likely had planted the “vine divine.” Roland describes his grandmother, “She was an avid gardener, loved gardening in the tropics and would have enjoyed something exotic like vanilla.” Having thrived in isolation, Roland estimates about 30 years, the vine growing up a tree was discovered by the new caretakers of the land. Unfortunately, at least at first, Lisa and Roland “knew nothing about how to propagate the plant.” Still, they followed their instincts. He says, “...we placed lengths of vine under several trees to see where it liked to grow.”
After finding “a spot where it started to flower,” the happy gardeners set their hearts on producing vanilla, a dedication that turned into a shade-covered area populated with climbing trellises and cuttings from the grandmother’s start and one from Maui. Thus, The Vanillery of Kauai came in to being. Coincidentally, their entrée into the world of vanilla came at a time when vanilla producers were facing hardships elsewhere. Tropical Cyclone Enawo, in March 2017, destroyed 30 percent of Madagascar’s vanilla production, which had in the past supplied up to 80 percent of total global production. Meanwhile, deforestation in Mexico has affected the original area in which vanilla was produced and is home to the only bee in the world, the melipona, that pollinates Vanilla planifolia, the species that gives us the spice. As a result, the BBC (British Broadcasting Corporation) has noted, along with numerous other sources, that vanilla has become more expensive by weight than silver. It is the second most expensive spice after saffron. Initially, the culinary couple had planned to market their vanilla extract but found it was more cost-effective to reserve the extract for the live vegan fudge, chocolate truffles and chocolate toasted macadamia butter they make and sell through their company, Tiny Isle. Their vanilla pods are offered for sale and are being purchased by chefs and Kauai Juice Co on island, and sold online. Although the vine likes to grow, the plant will not produce vanilla pods unless the vanilla orchid is pollinated, a situation that presents several challenges on the Garden Island. The only bees that pollinate vanilla, 88
the melipona, are in Mexico and in danger of facing extinction. However, in 1841, Edmond Albius, a slave on the island of Réunion, discovered an effective way of self-pollinating vanilla. His discovery at the age of 12, was celebrated in the 1998 documentary film, “Edmond Albius, l’esclave prodige” (prodigy slave) long after he had died, in 1880, a free man without ever having reaped the profits of his invention. Roland describes how selfpollination manually imitates what the bees do, “They go in, getting some pollen on their backs as they do so; then, when they back out, the flower opens a special one-way flap that reveals the pollen receptor, and the transfer is made.” The pollinating season is labor-intensive, requiring attention to the plants every morning during a three-month period. According to Roland, “You have to get out there and get it done before noon because the flowers start to close.” Once the flower closes, it falls off the vine, and the opportunity is missed. With successful pollination of the orchid flower, the plant will produce vanilla pods, also commonly known as vanilla beans. According to Lisa, the pods may be ready to harvest as early as February and continue to ripen as late as June. The length of the harvest season means that “pollinating and harvesting are happening simultaneously.” A peak experience of growing vanilla occurs during the harvest. Roland reveals a surprise only accessible to those who gather the pods: “Interestingly, when the ripe, unopened pods are harvested, they give off a lovely floral scent that is quite different from the familiar mellow aroma of vanilla. Only someone who is harvesting and curing vanilla will ever smell that, KAUA‘I TRAVELER
although we are thinking of ways to capture it.” Other stages of production that lead to the flavor and scent we know as vanilla follow the harvest. Boiling, fermentation and dehydration are parts of the curing process required to bring forth the delightful qualities we associate with vanilla. When asked about the most rewarding thing about growing vanilla, Roland does not hesitate to say, “Well, of course, it’s the cured vanilla, which when you get it right has such an amazing aroma.” He continues, “So, it’s very rewarding after all that work and figuring out how to do it right to get something so wonderful.” And, the wonder has only just begun. As avid cooks, the vanilla connoisseurs have found a variety of uses for the spice worth more than its weight in silver, from keeping a whole bean in a coffee pot that infuses the flavor of their coffee for several weeks to incorporating vanilla into savory sauces. Roland elaborates,“It doesn’t take much, but a little piece of bean or some of the “caviar” gives an aromatic dimension to pan sauces.” He points out that although we tend to think of the aroma of vanilla as delicate, “it really comes through even in the most strongly flavored dish.” He likes to use vanilla in hot sauces as “it serves to smooth out the flavor and give it a sweet note.” Roland continues to say, “It works especially well with habanero sauces, which we always have since those peppers grow so well here.” The way the scent of vanilla spreads its deliciousness far and wide reminds me of a Hawaiian saying. Serge Kahili King, former resident of Kaua‘i and respected healer, mentions a Hawaiian proverb in his 2008 book, myhawaiitraveler.com
“Huna: Ancient Secrets for Modern Living.” The proverb, Ukuli‘i ka pua, onaona i ka mau‘u (Tiny is the flower, yet it scents the grasses around it), refers to the power in small things. The worldwide influence of vanilla, the fragrance and taste that delights our childhood and adulthood, begins with a beautiful orchid flower prone to closing before it realizes its potential. Roland’s Tips for Making Vanilla Extract We sell vanilla by the ounce on our website, and so when you make extract from that, you know you are getting the right ratio. For instance, 1 ounce by weight of vanilla beans will make 10 ounces by volume of extract. We use good quality vodka, slit the beans and chop them a little so they fit into the bottle. It is best to use a dark-colored bottle. Put the date on it because that extract needs to sit for at least two months before you use it. Really, it’s best to wait six months to get the best flavor and aroma. It’s also a good idea to swirl it around in the bottle once in a while as it ages. If you don’t want the alcohol, you can take your finished extract and heat it gently, no more than 180 degrees Fahrenheit, until the alcohol smell is gone. Then, mix in pure food-grade glycerine (4 ounces for 10 ounces of extract) to replace the lost alcohol and stabilize it. You’ll need to refrigerate after that. For more information or to purchase their delicious products, visit https://tinyislekauai.com/fudge, or https://vanillery.com.
WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO
henever the cold temperature subsides and spring has sprung, the season brings a rebirth of life and a time to enjoy the crisp weather and relaxed atmosphere. Whether enjoying an impromptu gathering with friends or sitting down to enjoy a meal al fresco, reaching for a wine that is light, refreshing, and interesting can elevate any meal into an elegant, yet simple, affair. When choosing a white wine to enjoy during transitional months, finding one that is laden with flavor yet not fatiguing to the palate or food pairings are two keys to success. One stellar style that wine professionals reach for is Muscadet made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, which has found fame in the western end of France’s Loire Valley. Since this grape can tolerate a later harvest than other grapes, the fruit is sometimes allowed to further ripen on the vine and develop more sugars and riper phenolic qualities that translates to slightly more tannins compared to other white wines. The 2017 Bedouet “Clos des Grands Primos” Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie ($15/bottle; princetoncorkscrew.com) epitomizes the capabilities of this grape with a wine that is bursting with flavors of grapefruits, salted apples, and melon offset with a textural softness imparted by the aging on lees (spent yeast cells). Muscadet, known as a wine craving for a pairing with items from the sea, does wonderfully with a selection of oysters, mussels, scallops, and shrimp sautéed with ginger, garlic, shallots, and tarragon. This flavorful dish would often be a difficult pairing but the big, robust flavors are delicately balanced by the round fruitiness of this wine while the tarragon is complemented by the green apples and crispness in this bottling. While rosé has become a tantamount spring wine, many wine enthusiasts are turning to Georgian orange wines for something off the beaten path that is the perfecting pairing when the months begin to warm up. While not made from oranges, as often thought, the wine gets its amber hue from the contact with the grape skins for a much
longer period of time. This stunner from the country of Georgia is created from the Rkatsiteli grape, which is known to be one of the oldest grape varietals in the world heralded for its noticeable acidity and blend of spicy-floral notes on the palate. Our Wine’s 2010 Rkatsiteli ($19/bottle; klwines.com) exemplifies a stunning Georgian orange wine with an intense bouquet of uni (sea urchin), smoked ham, oolong tea, and hints of citrus complemented by the spiciness of this grape. What once began 30 years ago as a hobby by the winemaker has evolved into a masterfully crafted bottling of wine in which spontaneous fermentation is allowed to occur and completed with the inclusion of stems and seeds creating a wine with more grip. This texturally complex wine with many layered flavors grows on the palate and can withstand a bold pairing such as braised pork belly served alongside braised cabbage, apples, and topped with pickled mustard seeds. The braising of the pork will be heightened by the smoky, oolong flavors of this wine while the vegetal components of this wine will play comfortably with the cabbage and apple components of this dish. Though the pickled mustard seeds might throw some for a loop, this wine’s spicy qualities and hints of citrus will burst along side the pickled flavors creating a lively combination with each bite. For lovers of red wine, spring can be the perfect time to enjoy a glass of Beaujolais created from the Gamay grape. This thin-skinned, low tannin red grape results in a wine with high acidity and fruitier flavors like black plums and red cherries with hints of dried violets in the foreground. The ten Crus of the Beaujolais region in France express themselves with different renditions of the Gamay grape with the region of Brouilly being particularly fruity with hints of blueberries, raspberries, and currants being found in bottlings. The 2015 Les Frères Perroud “Amethyste” from Brouilly ($18/bottle; klwines.com) is a fuller bodied example of Beaujolais wine with slightly more tannins than wines from other Cru regions. This deep ruby wine emits a bouquet of ripe plums, dark cherries, and violets with a lengthy finish on the palate and sparkling minerality imparted by the pedigree of the vineyard. A stellar pairing with this brooding rendition of Beaujolais would be a panko-crusted veal cutlet topped with sorrel cream. The fuller body of this wine lends itself to a dish with a heavier cooking technique such as breading and pan-frying while the veal will mingle well with the fruity plums and raspberries of this wine. The tartness and herbaceous qualities of the sorrel cream will play with the hints of violets in the wine as the seamless texture balances the sharpness of the sauce. Whether sitting down to a formal meal or something more spontaneous, spring is the perfect time to reach for a glass of uncomplicated and transparent wines that are bursting with drinkability and an effortless style to complement the season of rejoice and rebirth. myhawaiitraveler.com
Enjoy the fresh and tasty local fishes
WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO
long with picturesque sunsets and gentle trade winds, the Hawaiian Islands are also known for its fresh ingredients and innovative cuisine, which draws inspiration from the many ethnicities that call the islands home. And for many, a trip here would not be complete without experiencing the wide array of fresh fish caught in Hawaiian waters prepared in the most delicious ways. ÿAhi is one of the most popular fish to be found in restaurants across the state from awesome hole-in-the-wall poke shops to being featured on the menus of highly acclaimed fine dining restaurants. Also known as yellowfin tuna or bigeye tuna, ‘ahi is renowned for its red, firm flesh and mild flavor making it a prime choice to be enjoyed raw in delectable sushi rolls, poke and sashimi, or quickly seared with a rare center.
If enjoying ‘ahi entirely raw is too daring for your palate, this fish also lends itself well to the searing technique where filets are cooked at high temperatures until the outside of the filet caramelizes. The Dolphin Restaurant located in Hanalei Town (also in Poÿipü) features their rendition of seared ‘ahi that has been on their menu for over 30 years. Thick cuts of fresh ‘ahi steaks are first marinated in their housemade teriyaki sauce and then charbroiled to medium rare. The dish is served with a side of drawn butter and choice of seasonal vegetables, potatoes or rice, making it a perfect introduction to enjoying expertly prepared ‘ahi. The Dolphin Restaurant is located at 5-5016 Kühiö Hwy in Hanalei. Phone (808) 826-6113 or visit www.hanaleidolphin.com. Open daily from 11:30am to 9pm. In the casual, yet elegant, atmosphere of Merriman’s Fish House, Chef Peter Merriman, who is one of the esteemed pioneers of Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine, enjoys combining local ingredients with his international flair, which is best captured in his Wok Charred ÿAhi, Merriman’s Original. Super fresh ÿahi is quickly cooked on the outside in high heat to caramelize the flavorful marinade and perfectly rare on the inside, and served with a lip-smacking wasabi soy sauce along with won bok cabbage slaw for crunch.
Kukui’s on Kalapakï Beach is located at Kaua‘i Marriott Resort on 3610 Rice Street in Lïhuÿe. Phone (808) 246-5042. Dinner served nightly from 5:30pm to 10pm.
Merriman’s Fish House is located at The Shops at Kukuiÿula in Köloa. Phone (808) 742-8385 or visit www.merrimanshawaii.com/fish-house/. Dinner served nightly from 5:30pm to 9pm, Happy Hour daily from 5:30pm to 6:30pm. Live music from 6pm to 9pm.
PHOTO COURTESY: (LEFT) KAUAI MARRIOTT; (RIGHT) MERRIMAN'S KAUAI
At Kukui’s on Kalapakï Beach, Hawaiian ÿAhi Sashimi is offered on their dinner menu from Thursday to Monday nights. Thin slices of raw ‘ahi are arranged on a platter and served with wasabi (grated Japanese horseradish) mixed with shoyu (soy sauce) to be used as a dipping sauce for the sashimi that accentuates the clean flavors of the fish. When enjoyed raw, the fish has a slightly sweet flavor and texture that practically melts in your mouth making it something that you will want to enjoy again and again.
Celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi offers his own rendition of kanpachi sashimi on his menu at Eating House 1849 where he teams with local farmers, ranchers, and fishermen to deliver the freshest ingredients possible. The Eating House Sizzled Kampachi Sashimi begins with thin slices of locally sourced kanpachi that is delicately arranged on a platter and topped with the chef’s special blend of citrus soy sauce and Hawaiian chili pepper water. The entire dish is served to the table with a slight sizzle that brings out the aromatics of the sauce and the slightly sweet fragrance of the fish. Eating House 1849 is located at The Shops at Kukuiÿula in Köloa. Phone (808) 742-5000 or visit www.eatinghouse1849. com. Dinner served nightly from 5pm to 9:30pm. Famed throughout the islands for its mild and sweet flavor, mahimahi has become synonymous with island cuisine and is a delicacy that has been enjoyed for many generations. Known in Spanish as “dorado” due to its golden color when plucked out of the water, and in English as “dolphinfish,” mahimahi has no relation to the beloved sea mammals that it shares its English name with. The firm flesh of mahimahi is best when cooked at high temperatures for short periods of time resulting in fully cooked filets that are tender and moist. The Macadamia Nut Crusted Mahi Mahi created by the talented chefs of Tidepools at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa blends traditional flavors with contemporary flair resulting in a sumptuous dish to be enjoyed in their open-air bungalows and relaxed island setting. Generous filets of this tender fish are coated with pieces of crushed macadamia nut that infuses the dish with a delicious buttery flavor. Once cooked, the fish is finished with a roasted banana and macadamia nut sauce and served alongside aromatic forbidden rice and a balanced flavored papaya-avocado relish that adds bursts of palate-cleansing acidity to the dish. 94
Tidepools at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa located at 1571 Poÿipü Road in Köloa. Phone (808) 240-6456 for reservations or visit www.tidepoolskauai.com. Open nightly from 5:30pm to 10pm. Complimentary valet parking for diners. Opah, or moonfish, is known to be one of the most versatile fish to enjoy and can be seen on menus served raw, grilled, smoked, sautéed and even broiled. Historically, the moonfish was considered good luck by the fisherman who caught it and traditionally given away as gifts in gestures of goodwill instead of sold. Lucky for us, the rich, tasty meat of the opah is available year-round on menus across the state. At the Holoholo Grill at Koloa Landing Resort at Poÿipü, Autograph Collection, celebrity chef Sam Choy allows diners to choose how their fish is prepared from a list of popular methods and flavor combinations such as Kaffir Lime, Pesto and Charred Backyard. Opah is offered nightly and many opt for the pan-roasted cooking method where filets of opah are cooked at a high heat with a savory white miso (Japanese bean paste) glaze that heightens the delicately sweet flavor of opah and served alongside Chef Choy’s signature Happy Rice and Wiki Wiki Papaya Salad. Holoholo Grill is located at 2641 Poÿipü Road in Köloa. Phone (808) 742-2538 or visit www.holohologrill.com. Dinner served nightly from 5pm to 10pm, Happy Hour daily from 3pm to 5pm. Hawaiÿi offers a wide range of freshly caught local fish to be enjoyed in a dazzling array of cooking preparations and flavor combinations in beautiful settings. All of the restaurants mentioned above offer more local fish dishes that are just as delicious than what was highlighted, just as there are many more local fishes that are popular like ono (wahoo), which is a highly sought-after fish that lures chefs for its flaky, delicate flesh that is both firm and sweet. Other popular local fishes to keep an eye out for are monchong (pomfret), ÿöpakapaka (pink snapper), onaga (long-tailed red snapper) and häpuÿupuÿu (Hawaiian sea bass). Go on a “fishing” adventure and try as many different seafood dishes as you can while you are here to discover your new go-to fish dish.
PHOTO COURTESY: (OPP. LEFT) EATING HOUSE 1849
Gaining popularity over the past decade, kanpachi (or kampachi) has become the darling ingredient of chefs for the rich and buttery flavors found in this yellowtail fish. Kanpachi, a member of the amberjack family, is popular on many menus and it can be enjoyed in a wide range of cooking techniques ranging from pan-fried to grilled, but the high fat content of this fish makes it especially delicious when enjoyed raw.
EAST KAUA‘I THE ROYAL COCONUT COAST
The East Side of Kaua‘i is often referred to as the Royal Coconut Coast. Appropriately named, considering the royal history and the abundance of ancient coconut groves from Wailua to Kapa‘a. Back in the 1300s, this area was called Kawaihau (the ice water), and it was the location of choice for Hawai‘i’s royalty. Kawaihau is mainly divided into four areas: Wailua, Kapa‘a, Waipouli and Ke‘alia. The kings chose Wailua to be the capital of Kaua‘i. High chiefs believed that the area around the mouth of the Wailua River was sacred and called it Wailua Nui Hoano or Great Sacred Wailua. This sacred area extended two miles up the Wailua River. Seven heiau (shrine) were built in an arc from the shores of Wailua up Mount Wai‘ale‘ale ending on the Westside of Kaua‘i. Royalty would come to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the birthstones of Holoholok‘u. When a king was born, a kahuna (priest) would take the child up the mountain to a bell stone. He would strike the bell stone with a rock, sounding the birth of a new king. No commoner was allowed in this area unless they were servicing a chief. You can view the birthstones and five different heiau at the Wailua River State Park. Please remember that this is a special place of worship and needs to be treated with respect. Do not leave offerings or move any rocks. Below the Wailua River State Park is Lydgate Beach. Two rock-lined seawater pools make it a haven for year round swimming. Above Wailua Park is Wailua homesteads. Here you will find many hiking trails and freshwater swimming holes. 96
Waipouli (dark water) is a little town between Wailua and Kapa‘a. Before all of the commercial development, Hawaiian royalty used this area to set sail to other locations in the Pacific. Due to the sudden popularity of fractional ownership, Waipouli is now a mile-long strip of shops and modern conveniences. Old Kapa‘a Town is the remnant of an old plantation town. Most of the buildings have been renovated and filled with boutiques, bars and restaurants, making Kapa‘a a hip little hot spot. Although, there are many beach parks in the area, be very careful about swimming here. The East Shore is best known for fishing, and the rocky shoreline can be very dangerous during high tide. As the locals say, “Never turn your back to the ocean.” If you’re driving north from Kapa‘a town, you will come across a large crescent shaped, golden sand beach called Keälia. The Kapa‘a Stream flows across the south end of the beach. You may see kayakers paddling in the stream or people rinsing off after a salty dip in the ocean. The area around the beach was once a 2,000-acre sugar plantation. Today, in an effort to preserve our agricultural past, Plantation Partners have converted the area into the largest agricultural subdivision on the island. Today the Coconut Coast is lined with newly renovated resorts, spas, condominiums and residences. They provide a getaway for travelers from around the globe.
ENJOY RESPONSIBLY Kaua‘i waters are a spectacular, but also dangerous playground WORDS ANDREW WALSH
nspired by the mystery, the adventure, the lure of the sea, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow dreamed of “what pleasant visions haunt me” out upon the seas. He spoke of ancient lore, sailors, and far off shores that filled his dreams and inspired his heart “Till my soul is full of longing, For the secret of the sea, And the heart of the great ocean, Sends a thrilling pulse through me.” So ends one of my favorite and telling poems—“The Secret of the Sea.” For between the lines lies a warning to those who seek the spoils of the seas, for to “Learn the secret of the sea? Only those who brave its dangers, Comprehend its mystery!” And dangers it has aplenty. The ocean is the source of all life on the planet. It regulates our climate, fills the air around us with life-giving oxygen, and provides what was once thought to be an endless bounty of food and resources. Of course, what was once plentiful—fish, birds, whales, sea creatures—are now too often on the brink of collapse or extinction. But what the ocean never runs short of is danger and death to those who disregard its inhospitable power and savage everchanging temperament. Like the Sirens on the rocks of Sirenum scopuli, the clear waters of this tropical paradise call you down for just one more swim, to explore just a little further than you dare, or to reach just slightly too far for that last fish. Too often carefree exuberance or inborn curiosity takes a back seat to experience and understanding of the environment one is entering. Fortunately, you can significantly reduce your risk and increase your enjoyment with a little understanding of how the waters flow, where the dangers exist, when to go, and when to stay. I’ve said it many times to my students, whether preparing them for a first dive, a coral swim-through, or a research transect. You generally drown before you ever touch the water. Hmm…sounds odd, right? But drowning is not an isolated event. It’s a series of decisions and steps one takes leading to the moment your toes breach the water’s edge. I’ve been preparing not to drown for about 20 years. What about you? And how have I been preparing? I first learned to swim. Seemed like a good start. I then became a diver and marine enthusiast trying to learn everything I could about the oceans. Eventually, I became a medic, dive instructor, and marine naturalist and environmental scientist. I’ve spent hours reading about how and why people drown and what leads to diving and myhawaiitraveler.com
swimming fatalities. What percentage were equipment failures? What percentage of people were new to the area? What percentage were alone? What activities were they engaged in? How many people die snorkeling, swimming, free-diving, diving, etc., etc. The list of things to analyze goes on and on. Yet facts and figures only get you so far. So I spent countless hours exploring new ocean areas with more experienced water people whom I trusted. Their knowledge became my knowledge. Their experience became my teacher. Their losses my gains. Yet despite all this, I’ve still found myself in situations beyond my control where seemingly small oversights or momentary gaps of awareness pushed the edge of life and death. I’d like to think that 20-plus years of effort, knowledge, and experience gave me a fighting chance to always back down from that edge. Yet despite all the experience and effort, the ocean will always have a new lesson to teach. What more could I have planned, what precaution did I miss, or did I recognize where my limits end and the ocean easily continues? What lessons will you learn out in the water that you should have learned on land? I hope it’s not that you should have prepared more before you went out. Because the ocean has no love for the frailty of our flesh and the confidence of our egos. It’s neither cruel nor loving—it’s simply indifferent to our suffering. Hopefully, I haven’t gone too dark with my warnings, but my goal is that you will reexamine what preparations you should start taking before going back into the water. That’s the first decision you have made not to drown. Here are a few basics that will also keep you afloat. Don’t go out alone. The buddy system works, plus everything is more fun with a buddy! Even if your buddy can’t help you, they hopefully can get to shore and call for help. Wear bright clothes so that you can be 100
easily seen. This reduces the chance of a boat collision and in case of emergency you can be found. Swim where there are lifeguards and monitor the signs and warnings they post—they are there for your safety. Hawaiÿi lifeguards know the waters they patrol—believe what they say about the conditions, and if they say, “Don’t go,” you better believe it isn’t safe. The waters surrounding these islands are not your local swimming hole, the currents and waves traveled 3,000 miles across the endless Pacific. They will slam into you and effortlessly take you on their hapless journey to the great beyond. Never swim in a new area without local guidance or specific knowledge of the daily and hourly conditions. Always bring a floatation device with you. It’s one of the best decisions separating those who drown from those who float around and get found. One of the best purchases I ever made was a thick wetsuit vest top. You almost never see me in the water without it. It won’t keep my head upright if unconscious, but it gives me positive buoyancy and the ability to float with almost no effort. I never go more than 50 feet from shore without it and my fins—ever. We almost always find people who get pulled out; it’s just a matter of time. A flotation device means you get to be found floating and likely still alive. Plus, what if your buddy needs rescuing? Are you going to Michael Phelps him back to shore? Probably not, but passing your buddy a flotation aid is quite easy. Sadly, I know people haunted by those they watched drown, barely able to save themselves in moments of life and death. Don’t let this happen to you or your buddy. And what about sharks? Will you get attacked? It’s possible since you are entering their environment, but you have a better chance of winning the Nobel Prize and an Oscar then getting bit by one. We are a much greater threat to sharks, by far. In the time it takes you to KAUA‘I TRAVELER
read this article about 1,100 sharks will be slaughtered. That’s around 100,000 to 200,000 a day. It’s best to avoid places where they are found, as it’s almost always a case of mistaken identity. This includes near the mouths of rivers, murky waters, harbors, and farther out in the ocean away from land, especially at night or dusk and dawn. Don’t spearfish as sharks have a heightened sense of smell and a sensitive olfactory system, and avoid areas of high boat traffic and fishing spots. Only a small handful of sharks are responsible for the majority of bites. Learn about these sharks and you will learn how to enjoy the ocean and better avoid them. A much bigger threat and often harder to avoid are rip currents. A rip is a funnel-shaped feature on the seafloor, often caused by a dip in a sand bar or geologic depression, causing a channel where water gets pulled out to sea much faster than the surrounding areas. A weak shore break next to a more powerful break can also cause a rip. Local knowledge will help you avoid rips. But only preparation beforehand can get you out of one. First, you need to be able to swim and stay afloat. I hope you have that floatation device! Or hopefully you have been practicing swimming in case of emergencies like this. The best option is to swim parallel to shore until you are out of the pull of the rip. Once you have swum the distance of an Olympic pool, you should be out of most rips. Then, swim diagonally away from the rip and towards shore. If you can’t get back to shore, just float and conserve your energy. Research on rips in California actually showed that the water pulled out by the rip made its way back to shore. You can’t count on that, but floating is better than drowning. The rip has an endless supply of energy and you don’t. Hopefully your buddy made it out and went for help. Also, waving your hands above your head is a sign of distress in the water. Start waving. myhawaiitraveler.com
Other common, but captivating, dangers in the ocean include waves. They might look easy to handle from shore, but are often much bigger. Also, waves come in sets; I can’t tell you how many times I’ve gone out into small sets only to be pounded by a monster set. Knowing this could happen, I’ve practiced many times what to do and made it back safely. Duck diving is one method of safely swimming deep under a breaking wave, allowing the surface to absorb the impact. Would you know how to do it? Have you practiced in small waves and worked up to bigger sets? The answer and effort could save you life. Try to remain calm—for me, it’s knowing I have the practice and experience to handle the waves. Panic kills. But practice kills panic. Don’t stay out for too long, stay hydrated, and wear (coral-safe) sunscreen. All experienced water people know the elements will wear you down and plan accordingly. Alcohol or drugs can also have the same draining effect even if taken the day before. And remember you start drowning on land long before you ever enter the water. Keeping this in mind will be the first of many good decisions. You risk not only your own life when you make poor decisions, but also the lives of those who will bravely risk theirs to save you. The ocean is a wondrous playground and Kauaÿi is abundant with water adventures. You should enjoy the azure, inviting waters—just do it with caution and knowledge. Ocean waters teach us to appreciate the bounty and serenity that this world has to offer by showing us how easily it can all be taken away. They teach us the fragile and ferocious nature of being alive. So approach the water instead with a ferocious will to learn and survive. Like Longfellow, take a pause and consider, “Ah! what pleasant visions haunt me, As I gaze upon the sea!” then do some planning. 101
SAND + SURF NORTH SHORE ‘ANINI BEACH PARK
This beautiful white sand beach has one of the largest coral reefs in Hawai‘i and has some of the best snorkeling in Kaua‘i for all levels. Swimming is among the safest in the North Shore, and a good place to learn how to windsurf. You can see magnificent sunsets from here. Grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy. Turn west on second Kalihiwai Rd between 25 and 26 mile markers. Take ‘Anini Road to beach.
HĀ‘ENA STATE PARK
This long stretch of white sand beach with a protective coral reef is a great snorkeling spot with a variety of colorful tropical fish when the water is calm. This is also a great place to beachcomb, surf, windsurf and fish. You can explore nearby sea caves carved out more than 4,000 years ago when the sea was higher. Camping, showers and restrooms are available. Located at the end of Kühiö Hwy.
One of the most majestic places on earth, this spot is also a great place to learn to surf, frolic in the water, jump off the pier, or just enjoy the incredible scenery. The sunsets are spectacular and the moonlight over Hanalei Bay is magical. There are four beach parks included in the two-mile sandy crescent shaped bay, and all have lifeguards on duty except Waikoko Beach. Black Pot Park is located next to the Hanalei River mouth, with tropical foliage along the river’s edge, and is a local gathering place with a variety of water activities. The Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park is a popular spot for picnics. The water is generally calmer near the pier. Wai‘oli Beach Park is near the center of the bay, set in an ironwood grove. Waikoko Beach is located on the westernmost section, and is protected by Waikoko Reef, so it’s popular with snorkelers and families. Picnic area, tables, pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Located off Kühiö Hwy in Hanalei. Access beaches off Aku Rd or Weke Rd.
KA‘AKA‘ANIU “LARSEN’S” BEACH
This long, narrow ribbon of sand and shallow reef lies at the foot of a series of low hills and pastures. A protecting reef offers excellent snorkeling for the experienced, but only when the ocean is calm. Poor visibility in the water can occur in the late summer. Beware of its rocky bottom and dangerous rip currents, 104
and stay away from the channels. This secluded beach is also a good place to beachcomb and fish. There are two small pockets of sand on the opposite side of Pakala Point. No lifeguard and no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near the 20-mile marker, take Ko‘olau Rd. Take the left Beach Access Rd. to the end. Walk through the gate and follow the trail down.
This wide sandy beach fringed with ironwood trees at the head of scenic Kalihiwai Bay is popular with boogie boarders and beginner surfers. Swimming is generally good in the summer. One of the nicest surfing breaks on the North Shore in the winter brings the more experienced out to this beach. Wide, shallow sand bar enables body boarders to ride decent waves in the front part of the beach. High surf periods create dangerous swimming conditions. Located off Kühiö Hwy west of Kïlauea on Kahihiwai Rd.
KAUAPEA “SECRET” BEACH
This exquisite, long and wide sandy beach with great views of Lighthouse Point is stunning. Swimming and snorkeling can be good when the ocean is calm. Swimming can be hazardous, so observe the ocean before entering. Look for the small waterfall flowing over the side of the cliff. You can see Moku‘ae‘ae Island, which is a bird sanctuary. Located off Kuhio Hwy on the same turnoff as Kalihiwai Beach. Take a right onto the first dirt road, drive to the end of the road and park. The hike down takes about 10-15 minutes.
KAWEONUI (SEALODGE) BEACH
This pocket of white sand beach backed by cliffs is a great place to snorkel and see honu in calm ocean conditions or just be secluded from the rest of the world. Beware of dangerous entry and currents. Offshore is a surf break known as “Little Grass Shack.” Located off Kamehameha Rd. Access beach from the trail at Building A at the SeaLodge Resort.
The Thornbirds and Lord of the Flies were filmed at this exquisite and very popular beach. With views of the Näpali Coast, it is great for snorkeling and swimming in the protected lagoon in calm conditions. Snorkelers and scuba divers can expect to see teems of tropical fish and honu (green sea turtles) on calm, clear days. Stay inside the reef for calmer waters. Beware of
strong currents and dangerous waves breaking on rocks and ledges. The currents are deceptively strong even on days when the water looks calm, so it’s best to stay in the reef-protected lagoon. The beach gets crowded with hikers and beachgoers, so get there early for a parking space. You may want to stay for the magnificent Näpali sunsets from the point. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is from here. Bathrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located at the end of the road on Hwy 56.
LUMAHA‘I BEACH (BALI HAI)
One of the most stunning and most photographed beaches in Kaua‘i, it was made famous as the location for the movie South Pacific. This large, wide beautiful golden sand beach is popular with a background of verdant foliage cliffs. Swimming is not recommended here, since there is no protective reef barrier to guard you against the tumultuous sea. Dangers include powerful waves sweeping up unsuspecting beachgoers off the rocks into the sea, strong undertow and dangerous shorebreaks. It’s a great beach to sunbathe and take in the incredible scenery. Access to the western part of the beach is located off Hwy 560 at Wainiha near mile marker 5. The eastern part of the beach is separated by a lava rock of Lumaha‘i is Kahalahala Beach. In calm conditions (summer), this beach can be a picturesque beach to swim in crystal clear warm water and explore the tidepools. No facilities or lifeguards. Park in the dirt parking lot. To access, hike down a steep jungle trail from the top of the lookout.
MĀKUA “TUNNELS” BEACH
This is one of the best snorkeling beaches due to the wide-fringing reef with a huge variety of fish swimming around in the shallow inner and outer reefs. The exceptional beach is surrounded by gently sloping sand and is well protected with incredible mountain scenery popular with swimmers, surfers, windsurfers and beachcombers. The best snorkeling is in the center by the crescent shaped reef. Scuba divers can explore the underwater caverns near the shore. Beware of sharp reefs, rip currents and dangerous water conditions. No facilities at this beach, but the facilities at Hä‘ena State Park are nearby. Lifeguard on duty. Take one of two dirt roads off Hwy 56 north of Hanalei near the 8 mile marker.
Surrounded by rolling hills, this beach is secluded and off the beaten path, with a wide crescent shaped sandy beach perfect for couples to catch a spectacular sunset or sunbathe, swim, snorkel and beachcomb. Be cautious of dangerous water conditions. The southeast side of the beach offers the best swimming and boogie boarding with plenty of shade. The beach is located where the Molo‘a (matted roots) Stream feeds into the bay. Located off Ko‘olau Rd. between mile markers 16 and 17. Take the narrow Moloa‘a Rd. to the end and follow the signs to the beach.
NĀPALI COAST PARK
About a two mile hike down from the Kalalau Trail is Hanakäpï‘ai Beach. The beach is beautiful but dangerous to swim. A difficult two mile hike inland near the stream leads to the waterfalls and a spectacular pool. Kalalau Beach is a long and wide sandy beach backed by sand dunes, located at the end of the trail (9 additional miles). There are other beautiful pristine beaches such as Miloli‘i Beach and Honopu Beach in the park, but they are only accessible by boat. Swimming and wading is dangerous due to strong currents and powerful waves at all the beaches in this awe-inspiring park. Camping is allowed with a permit. No lifeguard on duty. Access the beach from Kalalau Trail from Kë‘ë Beach at the end of Hwy 56.
PALI KE KUA (HIDEAWAYS)
Two beaches separated by a rocky point both have excellent snorkeling with a variety of tropical fish when the water is calm. Check ocean conditions carefully before entering for rip currents and do not enter when there is high surf. The large false kamani trees offer shade on the bed of coarse sand. People are scarce due to limited parking and hidden trail. Located off Ka Haku Rd. Take the path next to Pu‘u Poa tennis courts just before you reach the Princeville Hotel gatehouse and hike down to the beach.
PU‘U POA BEACH
Protected by a narrow reef offers great snorkeling with teems of colorful fish in crystal clear water. Safe when the surf is not high. The sandy beach is located directly below Princeville Hotel. Park at the small public parking lot. Take the beach access steps by the guardhouse at the hotel entrance.
A fabulous secluded beach with a long, fringing reef and shade along the sandy beach. Snorkeling and swimming can be good if the ocean is calm. There is a cool freshwater stream at the far end of the beach. Beware of dangerous rip currents, surges and high surf. Located off North Waiakalua Rd. Before the road ends, take the dirt road on the left side all the way to the end. Take the trail to the left and it’s the beach on the left. The beach on the right, past the Kepuhi Point is Waipakä Beach.
EAST SIDE ‘ALIOMANU BEACH
Pretty sandy beach shaded by ironwood trees and fringed by one of Kaua‘i’s longest reefs, this beach is a favorite of locals for gathering seaweed and spearfishing. Swimming can be safe in the lagoon when calm. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Aliomanu Rd.
ANAHOLA BEACH PARK
Grassy park with a beautiful sandy beach with good swimming conditions most of the time in the cove on the east side of the bay due to a large protective reef offshore. Snorkeling is good at the nearby reef; fishing and beachcombing are also good. The beach used mostly by locals is good for boogie board, body board and surf south of the old pier. The ironwood grove offers shade. Picnic tables, restrooms and showers are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Anahola Rd.
DONKEY (KUMUKUMU) BEACH
A fantastic long sandy beach in a cove at the base of a pasture named Donkey Beach because of the herd of mules that rested on the beach in the early plantation days. The waves draw in many surfers but it’s not a good beach for beginners. The winters yield high surf making swimming dangerous. Beware of steep entry, dangerous shorebreaks, strong currents and rocks submerged in the surf. Snorkeling can be good in a secluded cove north of the stream and over a small hill. No facilities or lifeguards. Located north of Kapa‘a ~ 1/2 mile north of the 11 mile marker off Hwy 56. Parking lot is at the top of the path to the beach. Hike 10 minutes to shoreline and take right for the beach; turn north and walk past the stream for the secluded cove.
FUJI BEACH (BABY BEACH)
Protected shallow section in the reef by a long, natural breakwater makes it a great place to have some water fun with the kids while you soak up the sun on the sandy beach. No facilities or lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy behind the Chevron in Kapa‘a.
A long, exquisite sandy beach with powerful waves makes it a great spot to watch experienced surfers and boogie boarders. Swimming can be done on calm days at the far northern end of the beach, which is protected by breakwater, but be careful of strong currents and sharp reefs. Public parking. Lifeguard on duty but no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near mile marker 10 north of Kapa‘a in Keälia.
LYDGATE STATE PARK
A scenic family beach that is very popular since it offers something for everyone including a park. There are two large lava pools great for children and offers safe swimming and snorkeling for beginners. Rock wall protects swimmers year-round and the ironwood groves provide shade. Kamalani playground has a wooden volcano; jungle gym and bright ceramic sea creatures adorn the playground. Picnic pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Leho Drive just south of the Wailua River.
Beautiful long narrow stretch of beach with shallow bottom offers an array of water activities. The beach stretches for miles to Lydgate Park swimming and snorkeling can be good in the well-protected reef and shallow waters when surf is calm. Fishing and surfing are also good here. Check ocean conditions before entering. There are more secluded beaches further north near Wailua Golf Coarse. Located at the end of Kaua‘i Beach Drive.
Long, wide golden sand beach near the Wailua River is good for taking a stroll or watching the experienced boogie boarders, surfers or watching the river flow into the sea. Swimming is dangerous due to strong rip currents and rough water. Children sometimes play near the river mouth when the currents aren’t strong. No facilities and no lifeguard. Located across from Coco Palms Resort. The beach is easily accessible when traveling north off Kühiö Hwy. 105
SAND + SURF WAIPŌULI BEACH
A long stretch of golden sand without crowds isn’t good for swimming since the ocean is rough and the coastline is rocky or reef, but it’s a great beach to watch windsurfers and fishermen pull in their catch. The beach has lots of hidden coves for seclusion and can be romantic. There is also a nice trail to jog while you take in the glorious scenery. Monk seals have been spotted quite frequently here. Located off Kühiö Hwy. There are many access points behind Coconut Marketplace.
LĪHU‘E & SOUTH SHORE BRENNECKE’S BEACH
A small sandy beach is popular with boogie boarders and honu. Waves tend to be bigger here in the summer than winter. Grassy area with picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. Located on Po‘ipü Rd.
HO‘AI (PRINCE KŪHIŌ) BEACH
A beautiful sandy crescent shaped beach with water protected by an offshore reef great for keiki and novice snorkelers when water is calm. This beach is popular for the honu (green sea turtles) and local fishermen who frequent the beach. Restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located off Läwa‘i Rd. in front of the Prince Kühiö Park.
HO‘ONA “BABY” BEACH
Great sandy beach for keiki (children) since the water is calm in a small cove behind off shore lava rocks. Access the beach using the walkway on Ho‘ona Rd. off Läwa‘i Rd.
This is a beautiful sandy crescent-shaped beach with tranquil water and a great place to learn to surf on the offshore break with great views of pali in the bay. It’s a great place to swim when conditions are calm. Beware of strong rip currents during high surf. Located off Rice St. west of Lïhu‘e in front of the Kaua‘i Marriott Resort and Beach Club. Park in the public parking lot at the hotel.
LĀWA‘I (BEACH HOUSE) BEACH
Small sandy beach is popular with snorkelers when the water is calm for the variety of fish in the offshore reef. It’s also a popular surfing spot for the waves that break offshore. Surfing competitions are held regularly here in spring thru fall. The small pocket of sand disappears in times of high surf. Beware of seasonal strong currents. The beach is located next to the Beach House Restaurant off Läwa‘i Rd.
A long, beautiful and romantic beach with mountain vistas is a two mile sandy strand along a reef-protected shoreline and high sand dunes. The beauty of this beach was captured in the movie Islands in the Stream where George C. Scott played Ernest Hemingway. It’s good for swimming only during extreme calm conditions. Windsurfing, beachcombing and shoreline fishing are popular activities. This is a sacred site 106
for native Hawaiians and for endangered plants and species. No facilities and no lifeguards. Beach is closed from 7pm to 7:30am. Follow the cane road past Shipwreck Beach. Stop at the guard gate to get through.
Ninini Beach and Running Waters Beach are hidden and out of the way beaches with pockets of sand separated by a lava rock formation. Protected and secluded, the beaches are good for snorkeling on calm days. Park across the street from the Kaua‘i Lagoons Golf Course or the clubhouse parking lot and follow path to beaches. Between Kalapakï beach and the lighthouse on Ninini Point near the 13th green.
PO‘IPŪ BEACH PARK
Po‘ipü Beach in the county park is nationally ranked and popular because the sunny weather and calm water that surrounds the chain of beautiful wide, white sandy beaches. An offshore reef causes the waves to break before they reach the shore making it a keikifriendly beach. Swimming and snorkeling are great between the offshore reef and the coast while the breaking waves outside the calm waters create surfing and boogie boarding opportunities. The protected beach area is great for novice snorkelers. Dangerous water conditions can occur during periods of high surf. Beginning surf lessons are available as well as a nearby playground. Lifeguards, picnic tables, pavilions, showers and restrooms are also available. Located off Po‘ipü Rd. south of Ho‘owili Rd.
SHIPWRECK (KEONELOA) BEACH
A lovely beach to sunbathe but not a good swimming beach due to dangerous ocean conditions is named for an old unidentified shipwreck. On the left is Makawehi Point where you will see fishermen surf casts and brave locals jumping into the sea as did Harrison Ford and Anne Heche from Six Days, Seven Nights. It’s a good beach for boogie boarding, surfing and windsurfing for the experienced. Showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located in front of the Hyatt. Take public access road between the Hyatt and the Po‘ipü Bay Resort Golf Course.
WEST SIDE BARKING SANDS BEACH
The beach is a continuation of the long white sand beach with superb vistas of Ni‘ihau and incredible sunsets. The name is due to the sound the sand sometimes makes when sliding down the 60’ high dunes along the beach but watch out for the thorns from the kiawe trees. Swimming is not recommended on this beach due to dangerous ocean conditions. Located between Kekaha Beach and Polihale Beach on the northern part of the Pacific Missiles Range off Kaumuali‘i.
KEKAHA BEACH PARK
This is the first beach of the series and is an exquisite long stretch of white sand with spectacular sunsets and many great surfing spots along the way. The
beach offers clear views of Ni‘ihau. This area is almost always sunny and shade is absent. Picnic area, grills, pavilions, showers and restrooms are available. Swimming can be extremely dangerous. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kaumuali‘i Hwy.
PĀKALĀ (INFINITIES) BEACH
The beach is picturesque and surrounded by lush tropical foliage and trees and a favorite spot for experienced surfers. This is not a good swimming beach due to murky water known for shark sightings and other dangerous ocean conditions, but it’s a great place to watch the locals surf and catch a magical sunset. The reef is called “Infinities” because it creates long perfect waves. Located by 21-mile marker off Hwy 50.
The longest and widest stretch of beach in the Hawaiian Islands, this 7-mile white sandy beach is breathtaking and considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Kaua‘i. The name means, “a leaping off place for spirits” or “house of death”. The usually sunny beach is framed by the majestic Näpali Coast and has sweeping sand dunes that can get up to 100 feet high and you can catch amazing sunsets with views of Ni‘ihau. This remote area is a great place to stargaze. The only safe place to swim is in the Queen’s Pond where the fringing reef offers protection from the extremely strong currents when the surf isn’t high; beware of sharp coral. Picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguards. Camping by permit only. Located at end of Rte 50. Take left onto the bumpy dirt road and drive several miles. Follow signs to beach.
SALT POND BEACH PARK
The protected reef in this pretty crescent shaped beach with lots of palms is great for swimming, snorkeling and beachcombing. Swimming is usually safe year round in the large lagoon and the sunsets are spectacular. Salt ponds are nearby where generations past made salt by evaporating seawater in red earthen pans and still do today. Please do not enter the salt-making area. The beach is also great for windsurfing, boogie boarding and exploring the tidepools. Lifeguard on duty. Picnic tables, pavilions, grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located in Hanapëpë. Take left turn on Lele past town off Kaumuali‘i Hwy and right on Lokokai Rd. to park. EDITOR’S NOTE: There is a wise saying in Hawai‘i, “Leave only footprints and take only memories.” Please take all your trash and don’t take anything that does not belong to you including those that belong to the sea. It’s best to leave your valuables at your hotel and not in your car, so the time can be spent relaxing and not worrying. Conditions change with the seasons, so take the time to evaluate the sea and read the beach safety. It is highly recommended to visit beaches with lifegauards on duty. Visit kauailifeguards.org for more safety information. KAUA‘I TRAVELER
KAUA‘I EVENTS ONGOING Live Music at Shutters Lounge
(Everyday) – Listen to great live music while dining on well-priced, delicious food every evening including late night fare and small plates at Shutters Lounge at Kauaÿi Beach Resort located in Lïhuÿe. Happy hour Lanai Menu is available from 5pm to 6:30pm daily. Live music nightly from 7pm to 10pm. Open from 5pm to 11pm Sunday thru Thursday and 5pm to midnight Fridays and Saturdays. Call Kauaÿi Beach Resort (808) 245-1955 for more information.
Grove Farm Museum Tour
(Mon., Wed., Thurs.) – An unhurried, 2-hour guided tour of the 100-acre Grove Farm site preserves one of Hawaiÿi’s sugar plantation buildings, furnishings and collections, surrounding orchards and pasturelands. This homestead was the center of operations for the developing sugar plantation and involved the relationship of family life, plantation activity, household work, gardening and farming and continues as part of the experience of visiting Grove Farm. Advance reservations are required (10am to 1pm). Fee: $20 for adults and $10 for ages 5-12. Call (808) 245-3202.
Waimea Historic Walking Tour
(Mondays) – Take a 2.5-hour walk back through time in the place where Captain Cook first landed in Waimea. Where the agricultural landscape changed from taro to rice to corn, watered by an intricate ditch system with a marvelous history dating back to the time of the legendary Menehune. Learn about the last King of Kauaÿi, the missionaries, and other famous citizens of Waimea along with the landmarks they left behind. Enjoy a taste of the past in one of the most historic towns in all of Hawaiÿi. Registration is required for participation and Special Group tours are available. Free. Call West Kauaÿi Tech & Visitor Center (808) 338-1332 for more information.
Kaua‘i Culinary Market
(Wednesdays) – Meet Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors, as well as 108
Kukui‘ula Village merchants and enjoy Chef Demonstration at 5pm with Kaua‘i grown produce, and listen to Hawaiian and local style music. Wine and beer garden, freshly grilled püpü and sweet treats, and 20 Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors make for a lively fun evening. Stay for dinner and shopping at the great retail shops and restaurants. Every Wednesday from 3:30pm to 6pm at Kukui‘ula Village in Po‘ipü.
Hanapēpē Friday Night Festival & Art Walk
(Fridays) – Come join the festivity! Every Friday evening, Old Town Hanapëpë is bustling with fun and activity! With a wide variety of shopping, local crafters, several excellent restaurants, a dozen art galleries, stilt walkers, classics cars, live music and entertainment, there is always something for the whole family to enjoy! From 6pm-9pm. Call Ed (808) 335-6469.
Aloha Friday: Make a Lei, Wear a Lei
(Fridays) - Come and enjoy making fresh flower lei and learn the different methods of lei making. Materials are provided. Workshop in Waimea at West Kauaÿi Visitor Center. Free. For more info, call (808) 338-1332.
Kauaÿi Community Market
(Saturdays) - New weekend value added farmers market hosted by the Kauaÿi County Farm Bureau and Kauaÿi Community College. Kauaÿi Community Market features a wide variety of locally grown fruit and produce, value added products like coffee, honey and goat cheese, plus culinary treats, breakfast and lunch items to eat at the market or take home. Learn ways to grow and prepare local foods, educational demos and garden tours held regularly. A great way to buy fresh and buy local, supporting Kauaÿi Grown products and Kauaÿi farmers from Hanalei to Kekaha. At Kauaÿi Community College front lawn and parking lot from 9:30am to 1pm. Free. Call (808) 652-3217.
Kauai Island Crafters Fair
(Saturdays) - You will find an amazing array of quality hand-made products from Kauai’s
own crafters and artisans. Beautifully-crafted handbags, fabric angels, Hawaiian quilts, Hawaiian dolls, towel wraps, Kauaÿi scenic photography & paintings & fiber arts, carved hardwood tikis & bone jewelry, beachwear cover-up, sunrise shell jewelry, souvenirs and lots more by local Kauaÿi artists. This is where you will find that unique gift for that joyous occasion or special someone that will be cherished for years (8am to 2pm). Place: Church of the Pacific, 5-4280 Kühiö Highway, Princeville. Proceeds to benefit The Church of the Pacific. Contact (808) 635-4314.
(Monthly) – The first Saturday of each month is ‘Ohana Day for family fun at the Kauaÿi Museum. Look forward to demonstrations, lectures and more during these special days. 10am to 5pm at the Kauaÿi Museum in Lïhuÿe. Free for kamaÿäina, and discounted for visitors. Call (808) 245-6931.
Princeville Night Market
(Monthly) - Princeville Night Market is a monthly festival, held every second Sunday, featuring live music and local artisans at the Princeville Shopping Center. Discover 40+ local artisans as you walk around the grounds from 4pm to 8pm. Listen to live music from several different bands. Find pottery, paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! For more info, email PrincevilleNightMarket@gmail.com.
Kïlauea Art Night
(Monthly) - Kïlauea Art Night is a monthly festival held on the last Saturday of each month featuring live music, local artisans and trendy food trucks. Line up for pulled-pork sandwiches and fresh fish tacos, stretch out on blankets while listening to the band. Walk around the grounds to discover 40+ local artisans. Find pottery, paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! Held at Anaina Hou Community Park. Email KilaueaArtNight@gmail.com for more info.
Pau Hana Trivia Night
(Jan. 4, Feb. 1, Mar. 1, April 5) – Every first Friday of the month is Pau Hana Trivia Night at Anaina Hou Community Park KAUA‘I TRAVELER
from 6pm to 8pm. Come start the weekend with us in the beautiful Porter Pavilion. There are food trucks, beer, wine, and trivia with Katie, Kauaÿi’s “Trivia Girl.” Bring the kids! There’s a big lawn for the keiki to run around on and/or board games to borrow. Everyone is welcome! Come early to save your team a table. Anaina Hou Community Park is at 5-2723 Kühiö Hwy in Kïlauea. With questions, please email Katie: thetriviagirl@ gmail.com.
Sanctuary Ocean Count
(Jan. 26, Feb. 23, Mar. 30) - Please join the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary Foundation to count whales! The community project involves counting the number of whales that can be seen around the islands and recording their behavior. Not only has this proven to be a fun volunteer activity for residents and visitors, but it also helps to provide important population and distribution information on humpback whales in Hawai‘i. If you are interested in participating in the annual Sanctuary Ocean Count Project or want to learn more about volunteering and to register, get details at SanctuaryOceanCount.org. myhawaiitraveler.com
Keiki Day at Na ‘Āina Botanical Gardens & Sculpture Park
(Jan. 26, Feb. 23, Mar. 30, April 27) – Na ÿÄina Kai’s playday is a monthly event held on a selected Saturday from 9am to 1pm where you can enjoy quality time with your kids in the “Under the Rainbow” Children’s Garden. Kids can get wet and play in Jack’s fountain, explore the jungle tree house and discover the many child-friendly features of the Children’s Garden. Bring a towel, and be prepared to get wet. Outside snacks are permitted and reservations are recommended ($10/person, free for children under 1 years old). For the monthly schedule and to make reservations, call (808) 828-0525 or visit NaAinaKai.org/ keiki-day.
FEBRUARY Waimea Town Celebration
(Feb. 16-24)- Check out Kauaÿi’s oldest and largest annual festival celebrating 40 years! With over a week’s worth of fun family events, take advantage of this opportunity to experience this unique West Kaua’i community. This event features: live entertainment, a Hawaiian rodeo, deconstructed triathlons, basketball and softball tournaments, ice cream eating
contest, ‘ukulele contests, lei-making contest, canoe race, games and rides for kids, crafts and local food vendors, cocktails and cuisine, silent auction and more. For more information and a detailed schedule of events, please visit WaimeaTownCelebration.com.
MARCH The 9th Annual Anahola Prince Kũhiō Day Celebration (Mar. 16) – Celebrate Prince Kühiö’s birthday, an official state holiday in Hawaiÿi, from 11am to 4pm at Anahola Beach Park. Kühiö was one of Hawaiÿi’s most beloved aliÿi (royalty) and statesmen. The Prince Kühiö Celebration is intended to honor Kühiö and his efforts to foster Hawaiian cultural values. Participate in a day of fun-filled activities. Enjoy life music, entertainment, and hula performances in celebrating the past and embracing the future of Prince Kühiö’s legacy. There will also be food and craft booths. This is an alcohol and drug-free event. For more info, contact La Contrades at khpono@gmail. com All events are subject to change. Check out www.myhawaiitraveler.com for updates and more events. 109
KAUA‘I FOR YOUR INFORMATION Area Code (808) for entire state
EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance/Police/Fire Civil Defense Poison Control Wilcox Memorial Hospital
911 733-4300 1-800-362-3585 245-1100
Alaska Airlines American Airlines go! Airlines Hawaiian Airlines Japan Airlines United Airlines
American Express MasterCard Visa Credit Card Directory
Hertz Car Rental Bus Taxi
1-800-654-5669 1-800-433-7300 1-888-IFLYGO2 1-800-882-8811 1-800-525-3663 1-800-241-6522
1-800-221-7282 1-800-307-7309 1-800-847-2911 1-800-555-1212
1-800-654-3011 241-6410 246-9554
WEATHER/CONDITIONS Weather Forecast Marine Forecast
VISITOR INFORMATION Directory 1-800-555-1212 Information 411 Agricultural Inspection 245-2831 Hawai‘i County Parks 241-4463 Hawai‘i State Parks 274-3444 Fishing License 274-3344 Hunting License 274-3433 Kaua‘i Chamber of Commerce 245-7363 Kaua‘i Visitors Information 1-800-262-1400
KAUAI SEA TOURS .com Call us or go online to book or learn more!
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U KA A’I TRAVELER THE LIFE & STYLE OF KAUA‘I
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