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BIG ISLAND THE LIFE & STYLE OF HAWAI‘I

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

T R AV E L E R

myhawaiitraveler.com

ALOHA BEACHES

FIND YOUR IDYLLIC SPOT IN THE SAND

LOCAL VIBE ISLAND STYLE FOOD + DRINK ENDLESS ADVENTURES PRESERVING PARADISE WHAT WE LOVE NOW SUMMER 2019

$6.99

WAIMEA NEI

FROM THE BEGINNING

SANDS OF TIME

A GREAT GREEN WONDER

CELEBRATE GOOD TIMES

TOAST TO PAU HANA

Cover_C4_BT19v2.indd 1

3/28/19 6:03 AM


From the Simple to the Extraordinary

Big Island Four Seasons Hualalai | Mauna Kea Beach Hotel | Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Oahu The Kahala Hotel | Halekulani Maui Four Seasons Resort at Wailea hildgund.com


L E G E N DA RY SHOPPING & DINING

TIFFANY & CO. | MICHAEL KORS | ROY’S WAIKOLOA BAR & GRILL | MARTIN & MACARTHUR TO R I R I C H A R D | TO M M Y B A H A M A | N OA N OA | N A H O K U | M AC Y ’ S R E S O R T S TO R E KINGS’ SHOPS LAKESIDE PUTTING | CRAZY SHIRTS | MAUI DIVERS JEWELRY A - B AY ’ S I S L A N D G R I L L | F O S T E R ’ S K I T C H E N | A N D M O R E . . .

New Cultural Exhibits throughout the center in partnership with Bishop Museum Located in Waikoloa Beach Resort | Big Island | KingsShops.com | 808.886.8811


52 WAIMEA NEI From the beginning

38 KONA COAST From Kailua to Ka‘ū

65 SWIMSUITS For every body

48 KOHALA COAST The Sunny South and Historic North

76 AMERICAN WINES Drink the West Coast

97 EAST SIDE From Lush Tropics to Fiery Kīlauea Volcano

80 CELEBRATE GOOD TIMES Toast to pau hana

8 LOCAL VIBE This 'n that Hawai‘i style

88 THE HOT SPOT Pele's Wok Bistro & Bar

22 WHY DON'T YOU... Try these Big Island experiences

94 SADDLE UP A therapeutic ride on the Big Island

28 LOCAL RAVES & FAVES My Hawai‘i

98 PRECIOUS PARADISE Protecting biodiversity from invasive species

42 YESTERDAY, TODAY & TOMORROW A look at the Island of Hawai‘i through time

102 SANDS OF TIME A great green wonder

PHOTO COURTESY: ERIC FRANKE

CONTENTS

30 WELCOME TO HAWAI‘I Big Views, Big Island

2

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


OVER THE MOON, LEFT AT CLOUD NINE, JUST PAST SEVENTH HEAVEN, FIRST RIGHT IS...

KŪKI‘O

KŪKI‘O GOLF AND BEACH CLUB The Big Island of Hawai‘i’s elite private residential community. kukio.com | 808.325.4040


CONTENTS

GOLF | 56

BIG ISLAND T R AV E L E R The Life & Style of Hawai‘i

myhawaiitraveler.com

PUBLISHER Kevin Geiger

EDITOR IN CHIEF Mun Sok Geiger

SHOP | 58 DINING | 70

Tiare Fountain Eric Franke Ekua Impraim Krystal Kakimoto Natalia Mastrascusa Andy Beth Miller Brooke Rehmann Peter A. Thoene Coco Zickos Capture Hawai‘i

COPY EDITOR

Brooke Rehmann

COVER IMAGE Eric Franke

www.traveler.media

ADVENTURE | 90 www.theory.co

PO BOX 159 | Kamuela, HI 96743 info@traveler.media

Copyright©2019 Traveler Media

BEACHES | 104 4

EVENTS | 110

Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from the publisher is prohibited. Traveler Media makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information supplied in this publication. However, due to unavoidable circumstance of change, whether from the forces of nature or manmade, the information is not guaranteed. Traveler Media is not responsible or liable in any way for any loss or damage incurred resulting from the information supplied in any and all forms of media or communications.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LT) MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL; (TOP RT) PIKAI SWIM; (MID LEFT) CAPTURE HAWAI'I / NATALIA MASTRASCUSA; (MID RIGHT) LIGHT SUP

CONTRIBUTORS


Oceanfront Dining

808 325 8000

fourseasons.com/hualalai


ALOHA

EDITOR'S NOTE

I

have ophidiophobia. Ever since I was little I have been petrified of the creepy crawlers. I can vividly remember when I was 8 years old fishing with my dad and sister at Draper Lake when I almost stepped on a rattler. As my younger sister was screaming, “snake!” I looked down just as I was about to put my foot on it—thankfully it was dead. We ran to our car still screaming and stayed there until our dad forced us back out to continue fishing. We were both on high alert and couldn’t relax to enjoy our outing. We ended up bugging our dad enough to go home early—without any fish. I moved to Hawaiÿi because there aren’t any snakes here. There are more important reasons, of course, but this was a huge selling point for my husband when he was trying to convince me to leave our wonderful life in Dallas to try to make an even better one here. What’s incomprehensible is that some people try to sneak in the slithering reptiles on planes (a $200,000 fine, and up to three years in prison), and other illegal animals as pets and put our super fragile ecosystem in jeopardy, endangering native species, many of which aren’t found anywhere else on the planet. The good news is that our state and local government agencies are continuing to work hard to protect Hawaiÿi’s unique biodiversity (Precious Paradise, p. 98). But, it takes more than the law to preserve the exquisite setting of Hawai‘i—it takes every person from locals to visitors doing the pono (right) thing, from reporting alien species to cleaning your hiking boots before entering a forest to prevent the spread of invasive seeds. Exceptional beauty flourishes on the Big Island. Papakölea Beach, one of only four green sand beaches in the world, is a collapsed volcanic cinder cone with sparkling olivine mineral to make up its sandy shore. Located in a remote area of the southernmost tip of 6

the island, Green Sand Beach is worth the long trek across the arid landscape to experience its uncommon splendor (Sands of Time, p. 102). While there are countless natural gems from postcard-perfect beaches to breathtaking waterfalls and lush valleys, it is the people and the aloha spirit that make the Big Island an ideal destination. There are many fantastic, charming towns to discover with plenty of character and attractions. One such place is Waimea—an incomparable town as close to heaven on earth. With compelling history of the first paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys), rolling green pastures, and frequent rainbows, it’s hard to find anything missing from this picturesque town. Waimea is a beloved community with valuable groups such as The Waimea Outdoor Circle, Waimea Trails and Greenways Committee, and Nähelehele, all dedicated to preserving our native flora and improving our parks and trails (Waimea Nei, p. 48). The lovely parks found in Waimea offer an ideal place to spend a day exploring with your family and enjoying a picnic under the shade of native trees or next to a serene stream that winds through the park. The Big Island is more than a tourist brochure; it’s an amazing place to live with warm people, welcoming communities, diverse culture, tranquil vibe—and, no snakes! I’m blessed to be able to call this place my home. I hope you discover for yourself the many treasures that make the Big Island a place like no other. Warmest aloha, Mun Sok Geiger munsok@traveler.media Editor in Chief BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


Build. Awe. Ke Kailani oceanfront community provides a compelling design-build opportunity in Mauna Lani Resort. Featuring abundant amenities and priced lower than any oceanfront development in the area, Ke Kailani is ready for your custom home project.

(808) 238-0900 | KeKailani.com

FLEXIBLE DESIGN

UTILITIES INSTALLED

ELEVATED PADS

PRIVACY FEATURES

OPEN SPACES

RESORT AMENITIES

GOLF LIVING

Carrie Nicholson

Pam Deery

Jan Nores

808.896.9749| Carrie@HawaiiLife.com

808.756.1548| Pam@HawaiiLife.com

808.895.5445| Jan@HawaiiLife.com

OCEANFRONT COMMUNITY

VALUE POTENTIAL

PLAN READY


LOCAL VIBE

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

SMOKY GOODNESS

Looking to add a little spice to your morning breakfast? Portuguese sausage, or more formally known as linguiça in its home country, is typically made from smoke-cured pork that gets seasoned with spicy paprika and garlic. When Portuguese immigrants left their homeland, typically from the Azores, an island chain in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean tied to the Portugal mainland (much like Hawaiÿi is to the US), they brought with them their culinary traditions, including what has been adapted as the “Portuguese sausage.” This tasty sausage, along with Spam, is the go-to breakfast meat of the Hawaiian Islands, perfect with a plate of fried eggs and a scoop of white rice. You’ll see it added to fried rice dishes and noodles or even on püpü (appetizer) menus, and McDonald’s offers Portuguese sausage as a breakfast option. Next time you’re in line at the hotel’s breakfast buffet or see it on a menu, give this flavorful local staple a try.

SPECIAL BIRD

The ÿalae kea, or the Hawaiian coot, is an endangered small waterbird endemic to Hawaiÿi. With a black head, dark gray body, and white under tail feathers, one of its most striking features is its conspicuous white bill and frontal shield. The Hawaiian coot can be found all throughout the Island of Kauaÿi except the higher mountain areas. On the Big Island they are found in Hilo, the valleys between Pololü and Waipiÿo, as well as the slopes of Mauna Kea (but no higher than 6,600 feet), and in the different ponds, like ÿÖpaeÿula Pond, along the North Kona/South Kohala coastline, preferring wetland areas. Hawaiian coots prefer to eat a diet of leaves, seeds, tadpoles, snails, insects, and crustaceans. Though they prefer to eat on land as well as the surface of the water, they will also dive for their food. Interestingly, though, these birds have the ability to fly between islands if their food sources become depleted. Traditionally, the ancient Hawaiians saw the ÿalae kea as a deity, but also as a tasty bird to eat. To help the Hawaiian coot recover its population, visitors and residents are asked to be mindful of the threats that hinder its recovery: loss of coastal plain wetland habitat, the introduction of predators, the introduction of non-native plants, including mangrove and water hyacinth, as well as avian diseases. Try to keep your cats indoor and your dogs on a leash when these special birds are nearby, especially around coastal wetlands so they can live on for future generations.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


Hawaii’s largest selection of handcrafted Hawaiian jewelry

I n s p i r e d , d e s i g n e d a n d c r e a t e d i n H aw a i ‘ i KO N A S Q UA R E | M AU N A L OA M AC A DA M I A N U T Q U E E N S ’ M A R K E T P L AC E | ROYA L KO N A C O F F E E | WA I KO L OA K I N G S ’ S H O P S F O R E V E R G UA R A N T E E D

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GARDENIA VARIETY One of the most refreshing aspects of a visit to Hawai‘i is the fragrance of the tropical flowers. Few other places on earth rival the scents found here on our islands, and one such fragrant flower is the gardenia. Multiple gardenias grow here, from the standard gardenia, with beautiful, soft white blossoms, native to Southeast Asia, and preferring moist, acidic growing conditions more suitable to our island’s higher elevations. Gardenia tubifera, or the golden gardenia, is striking with its yellow petals and sweet fragrance, making a dramatic statement in any landscape. The Tahitian gardenia, Gardenia taitensis, also grows here in Hawai‘i, either as a small hedge or tall tree. Its pinwheel shape flower has five to eight petals that resemble blades, and is a favorite flower to wear behind the ear both here and across Polynesia. Hawaiÿi has its own gardenia, the nänü. Native to Hawaiÿi’s dryland forests, the nänü has six soft white petals, with a sweet perfume slightly reminiscent of coconut oil. Regardless of the type of gardenia you encounter, be sure to admire its beauty and enjoy their heavenly scent.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


N E W LU X U RY HOM E S I N

HAWAI‘I C A L L O R V I S I T US TO DAY

808.824.5435 brookfieldhawaii.com/search

T H E BE S T PL AC E S TO C A L L

Home island of hawai‘i

KAMILO AT MAUNA LANI Single-Family & Paired Homes Golf Course & Mountain Views 3-4 Bedrooms, Up to 3.5 Baths From $900K's to $2M island of hawai‘i

HOLUA KAI AT KEAUHOU Single-Family Detached Homes Oceanfront Community 3-4 Bedrooms, Up to 3.5 Baths From $800K's to $2M island of k aua‘i

PILIMAI AT PO‘IPU Townhomes & Condominiums Ocean, Golf & Mountain Views 2-4 Bedrooms, Up to 3.5 Baths From $700K's to $900K's

The information provided herein is not intended to be and does not constitute an offer or solicitation to sell and shall not be used in any state where prohibited by law or where registration requirements have not been met. Equal Housing Opportunity. Model photography is for illustrative purposes only. All square footages are approximate. All renderings, floor plans and maps are artists’ conceptions. Seller reserves the right to modify or change fl oor plans, included features, specifi cations, fi nishes, pricing, incentives and availability without prior notice. © 2019 Brookfi eld Residential Hawaii.


LOCAL VIBE

FAMILY GUIDANCE Guardian angels are very popular in Christian communities across the US. Here in Hawaiÿi, a similar concept evolved organically, long before Western contact took place. ÿAumakua, or spirits of ancestors in the form of animals or plants that guide the living, hold a significant position in the hearts of not only Hawaiians, but also Polynesians. A popular saying, “ÿAno lani; ÿano honua” means that ÿaaumakua are both heavenly and earthly in nature. A visit by a personal ÿaumakua is said to be offering advice, help, inspiration, or acting as a guide—heeding the guidance or warnings of your ÿaumakua was (and still is) something that should be taken seriously. ÿAumakua can take the shape of sharks, sea turtles, pueo (Hawaiian short-eared owls), octopuses, eels, rats, dogs, caterpillars, and even plants and rocks. And not all sharks or pueo are the family’s ÿaumakua, but instead one particular one would represent the family’s ancestor. Those who have seen Disney’s Moana might recognize her grandmother in the form of a manta ray as an example of an ÿaumakua. Each family is in charge of taking care of their ÿaumakua through prayers and other offerings, and to behave in ways that doesn’t anger the ÿaumakua. In exchange, the ÿAaumakua acts as a guardian and provides inspiration or strength as needed. It is not common for families to speak openly about their ÿaumakua, though some may be willing. Being respectful of this special relationship will go a long way. 12

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


Hualälai

72-122 Lau‘ekï Street Access to and use of private amenities at Hualālai Resort is available only to Hualālai Members. Hualālai Membership is not included with a purchase of a property. See Membership plan and other governing documents for terms, conditions and costs. Obtain the Property Report or its equivalent required by Federal and State law and read it before signing anything.


Kailua-Kona, Hawai‘i 96740 ONLY ON-SITE REAL ESTATE COMPANY 808-325-8500

www.HualalaiRealty.com

No federal or state agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of the property/properties shown here. Waring: The California Department of Real Estate has not inspected, examined, or qualified this offering. All residential sales offered by Hualālai Residential LLC dba Hualālai Realty. © 2019 Hualālai Realty.


LOCAL VIBE

SAND MAKER One of our reef’s more colorful inhabitants is the uhu, or parrotfish. With its psychedelic colors, parrotfish are easily discernable from their fellow reef-dwelling residents. Their unusual coloring, though, isn’t the only extraordinary thing about them. Parrotfish prefer to eat a diet of coral, and often their chomping can be heard underwater. After their meals, they expel a stream of sand, as much as a ton per fish per year! We can give a little bit of thanks to these unusual fish for our islands’ beautiful beaches, as their excrement has helped make them. Hawaiian waters are home to three endemic uhu, as well as four non-endemic ones. Parrotfish do not start off their lives looking as fabulous as they do in adulthood—heir colors evolve over time; and in fact, some fish have the ability to change sex and become even more colorful as their lives progress. For instance, “supermale” parrotfish have a harem of female fish—when the supermale dies, the strongest female in the harem changes sex and adapts the colors of the male. As if all that strangeness wasn’t enough, parrotfish also enjoy sleeping in a cocoon made of mucus, potentially as a form of protection from eels and other predators. Now when you catch a glimpse of this unique fish, you’ll never look at them the same way again. 16

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


Indelible Hawaiian memories are made at the edge of the ocean as top dancers and musicians perform and Mauna Kea chefs put on their own dazzling show featuring imu-roasted kalua pig and the island’s most bountiful buffet.

Your perfect night out starts here.

Overlooking Kauna‘oa Bay, Manta pioneered Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring locally sourced ingredients delivered daily.

From handcrafted cocktails and elevated local cuisine, to a full lū‘au experience, Mauna Kea offers something for everyone.

With sweeping views of Kauna‘oa Bay, friends and families gather for mixologist-crafted cocktails and wine complemented by gastropub cuisine.

Timeless happens here. C A L L 8 0 8 - 8 8 2 - 5 8 1 0 F O R R E S E R VAT I O N S M AUNAKE ABE ACHHOTEL .COM


LOCAL VIBE

BIG & BEAUTIFUL There’s something magical about manta rays. To catch a glimpse of one of these elegant creatures as they glide through the clear water is a moment of great joy and deservedly garners oohs and ahs. Known as hähälua in Hawaiian, which means “two mouths” or “two breaths,” these creatures were so revered they are mentioned in the second section of the Kumulipo, the Hawaiian creation chant. Their presence has always captured a sense of wonder simply because our realm of understanding them or their behavior is elusive. Each manta ray’s markings are unique, like a fingerprint, and researchers use these markings to study the graceful creatures and their habits over time. But where can you catch your own glimpse of manta rays? Rays on the Bay 18

at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay has a viewing platform, as the rays make their nightly dinner reservation in the sea just beyond the restaurant. Or, for those further up the Kohala Coast, the Mauna Kea Beach Resort offers an evening manta ray lookout as well. For those feeling more adventurous, take an evening dip in the deep blue sea with one of the local manta ray dive operators. Bright lights are used to attract plankton calling the mantas to dinner. You will be amazed as the gentle giants gracefully flip and dip for food right before your very eyes—and, don’t worry, these creatures are safe with no teeth or stingers. Expect to walk away from this unforgettable experience feeling an immense sense of awe and appreciation for these extraordinary creatures. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


VOTED “BEST SNORKEL CRUISE ON THE ISLAND OF HAWAII” WEST HAWAII TODAY READER’S POLL

Award-Winning Snorkel Tours to Kealakekua Bay & Captain Cook Monument - Since 1971


Information & Reservations 808.322.2788 | Current Specials at www.fair-wind.com


LOCAL VIBE

WHY DON'T YOU...

swim with giants.

For an out-of-this-world experience, snorkel in the evening with manta rays as they feed on plankton with their mouths wide open just inches away from you. These prehistoric-looking creatures are completely safe to swim with, as they don’t have teeth or barbs to hurt you. Manta rays are as graceful and elegant as ballet dancers as they flip and dive for their dinner. Expect to walk away from this surreal experience feeling an immense sense of awe and appreciation for these extraordinary creatures. Get on board Fair Wind’s Hula Kai, a luxurious vessel, for an epic snorkel adventure. Everything is provided including food and drinks so no worries—just pure enjoyment. Call (808) 322-2788 or visit fair-wind.com for current specials on their tours.

paddle for fun.

Stand up paddleboarding (SUP) alone is a stimulating pursuit, but add a viewing window and internal light ports and it takes the ocean activity to another level. Your child can even ride with you and look through the large window to spot green sea turtles and colorful reef fish while you paddle with knowledgeable and professional guides. You don’t have to have SUP experience to enjoy this favorite local pastime. LightSUP Hawaii offers morning, sunset and private tours on the South Kohala Coast. Call (808) 854-0548 or visit lightsuphawaii.com for more information.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


play on line.

Give yourself a thrill and release your inner child as you zip across a gorgeous waterfall or zip through a forest of lush vegetation. Ziplining is an exhilarating adventure sure to bring shrieks of excitement, plus the bird’s-eye view guarantees exceptional sights. Whether this is your first time to zipline or your 100th, go with reputable, professional outfitters. Try Kohala Zipline (808) 331-3620 or visit kohalazipline.com, or Umauma Falls Zipline & Rappel Experience (808) 201-3605 or visit ziplinehawaii.com.

PHOTO COURTESY: UMAUMA EXPERIENCE

LOCAL VIBE

WHY DON'T YOU...

seek refuge.

Puÿuhonua o Hönaunau National Historical Park was a sanctuary for kapu (law) breakers in ancient times and still a significant site today full of history, including an abandoned farming and fishing village, royal grounds, kiÿi (wooden images), and temples, in a tranquil beachfront location. Off Hwy 11, turn makai (towards ocean) between mileposts 103 and 104 (near post office) onto Hwy 160; travel 3.5 miles and turn left at the park sign. Visit nps.gov/ puho/ for more information.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


SCH E DU LE YOU R VI S IT TODAY W E’R E NOW 1/3 R D SOLD OUT

I F YOU R I DEA OF HAWAI I IS TH E B EACH,

why would you live anywhere else? Let nothing come between you and the sea, sand and sky. Let nothing come between you and the legendary resort that created and has defined island luxury for generations. The Mauna Kea Resort. Here are the island’s most spectacular oceanfront residences — literally steps from your home to the soft sands and warm waters of what is considered to be Hawaii’s best beach. Construction is under way and reservations are being accepted. Please be in touch to schedule a visit with us at the beloved Mauna Kea Resort. Residences from $1.5 to $8 million.

808.557.8689

Info@MaunaKeaLiving.com

For Hapuna Beach Residences, obtain the Developer’s Public Report for a Condominium required by Hawaii law and read it before signing a binding sales contract. No federal or state agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of these properties. This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of any offer to buy where prohibited by law.


LOCAL VIBE

MY HAWAI‘I NAME

|

SANJIV HULUGALLE

OCCUPATION

|

VICE PRESIDENT AND GENERAL MANAGER OF MAUNA LANI, AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION

HOW LONG YOU HAVE LIVED IN HAWAI‘I

|

5 YEARS

FAVORITE BEACH: Häpuna Beach. As one of the largest beaches on Hawaiÿi Island—about half a mile long—Häpuna is ideal for both a day of adventure bodyboarding and swimming, or leisurely relaxing and enjoying the famed Kohala Coast. FAVORITE PASTIME/ACTIVITY: Golf at Mauna Lani. If I’m not in the water, you can find me enjoying another favorite pastime—teeing off at the resort’s famed 36-hole course, which offers both stunning ocean and mountain views combined with a challenging course. FAVORITE SNORKEL SPOT: Makaiwa Bay. This protected lagoon is an underwater paradise teeming with marine life including honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles), endemic Hawaiian reef fish, and unique coral formations. FAVORITE HIKE: Puakö Petroglyph Field hike. Culture, history and the inspiring beauty of the area collide on this inspiring hike, where you’ll encounter one of the most extensive petroglyph fields in Hawaiÿi, boasting more than 3,000 ancient petroglyphs dating back to 1200 AD.

FAVORITE PLACE TO TAKE YOUR GUESTS: Twilight at Kalähuipuaÿa on the grounds of historic Eva Parker Woods Cottage. Now in its 21st year, resort guests and the community gather under a full moon for a magical evening of talk story, music, hula and culture—there’s nothing quite like this experience. FAVORITE PLACE TO CATCH THE SUNSET: Sunset sail. End the day with an unforgettable sunset sail along the Kohala Coast, offering a unique perspective from the water of the dramatic coastline of Hawaiÿi Island framed by the majestic mountains of Mauna Kea, Moana Loa, Kohala, and Hualälai. FAVORITE PLACE TO TAKE IN THE HISTORY: Kalähuipuaÿa Fishponds. Join Danny Akaka, revered cultural advisor, for a walking tour of the Kalähuipuaÿa Fishponds and step back in time to learn about the history, culture, the significance of the area, and the spiritual piko (center) for the ancient aliÿi (royalty).

my local faves

FAVORITE DISCOVERY: Hawaiÿi really does have everything, including snow. Towering more than 13,500 feet above sea level, Mauna Kea, among the world’s tallest mountains when measured from its base on the ocean floor, is adorned with snow during the winter. Nothing like seeing a snow-capped mountain while relaxing on the beach! LUCKY YOU LIVE HAWAI‘I…because of the spirit of aloha!

HAPUNA BEACH 28

LEI GIVING

TWILIGHT AT KALĀHUIPUA‘A BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LEFT) CAPTURE HAWAII/TIARE FOUNTAIN; (BOTTOM RIGHT) BROOKE REHMANN

FAVORITE CUSTOM/TRADITION: Giving or receiving a floral lei. It represents the sharing of aloha.


Queens’ MarketPlace DINING Bistro at the Cinemas Charley’s Thai Cuisine Daylight Mind Café & Restaurant Kuleana Rum Shack Romano’s Macaroni Grill Sansei Seafood, Steak & Sushi Bar ENTERTAINMENT Waikoloa Luxury Cinemas FASHION Blue Ginger Family Cookies Clothing Co. Crocs Kona Surf N’ Sandals Local Motion Mahina Malibu Shirts Olivia Clare Boutique PacSun Persimmon Quiksilver Reyn’s Volcom FOOD OUTLETS Aloha Bol Big Island Burritos Dairy Queen/Orange Julius Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ Lemongrass Express Marble Slab Creamery® Paradise Pizza & Grill Starbucks Subway Sandwiches & Salads GROCERY Island Gourmet Markets JEWELRY & ART Genesis Galleries Island Pearls Lava Light Galleries SERVICES Aston Hotels & Resorts Fidelity National Title & Escrow of Hawaii Hawaii Life Real Estate Brokers Hearts & Stars Salon & Day Spa Hilton Grand Vacations Club Luxury Big Island by Harold Clarke Waikoloa Dental Clinic Windermere Real Estate/C & H Properties SPECIALTY & GIFTS Bike Works Beach ’n Sports Blue Wilderness Dive Adventures Claire’s Hawaiian Quilt Collection Hawaiian Ukulele & Guitar Lids Ocean Sports Pacific Nature SoHa Living Sunglass Hut

808-886-8822 | QueensMarketPlace.net Waikoloa Beach Resort | the Kohala Coast 20 miles north of Kona International Airport


ALOHA

HAWAI‘I

PHOTO COURTESY: ERIC FRANKE

THE BIG ISLAND

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


Your New Lifestyle Awaits. ONLY 11 lots available, starting in the mid-$200Ks. Call today for more information and site tour.

O

n the beautiful Hamakua Coast of the Big Island, a new way of living awaits you—a place where sustainability, community and heritage come together to create exquisite country living. This place is called Kuwili Lani (“To Embrace the Heavens”).

With expansive ocean, pastoral and sky vistas and just 11 one-acre lots for sale, Kuwili Lani will be a unique, first-of-its-kind Hawaii “agrihood” subdivision, designed for innovative green building practices, energy and water conservation, wise use of natural resources and fresh food production. Here, like-minded homeowners will be part of a lifestyle centered around a shared vision of living in harmony with the land. At Kuwili Lani you can live in a better way today while creating a legacy for your family tomorrow.

INFO Big Island Sustainable Homes, LLP 808.924.6835|info@kuwililani.com Kuwililani.com

SALES Julie Keller REALTOR(B), RB-64856 808.987.7931| Julie@HawaiiLife.com HawaiiLife.com


ALOHA

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LEFT) CAPTURE HAWAI'I

E

nthusiasts from beachgoers, snorkelers, divers, hikers, golfers, big-game fishers, stargazers and nature lovers all can satisfy their cravings for the best of the best all on one Big Island. The Island of Hawai‘i is home to world-class golf, beaches, diving and stargazing sites. Two of the most common adjectives to describe the Island of Adventure are contrast and diversity. You can ski the snow-capped Mauna Kea, trek across a desolate desert, and walk through a verdant tropical rainforest all in one day. Kïlauea, one of the planet’s most active and most visited volcanoes, brings both destruction and creation. Four out of the five main climate zones exist here from near desert to sub-arctic tundra. The Big Island is home to the world’s largest volcano—Mauna Loa, the most active volcano—Kïlauea, and according to the Guinness Book of Records, the tallest mountain— Mauna Kea when measured from its base on the ocean floor to its highest peak. 32

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


8oz Filet Mignon with Spicy Garlic Cream Shrimp, Garlic Butter Green Beans

Surrounded by the historic King’s Trail featuring petroglyphs and lava fields, Roy’s Waikoloa offers an exclusive dining experience with exceptional food and outstanding service.

Dine with us and enjoy the bounty of Hawaii Island with the freshest local ingredients, the creative talents of our chefs and a grand view overlooking the Kings’ Course fairway and lake.

ROY'S AT THE KING'S SHOPS, WAIKOLOA | RESERVATIONS CALL (808) 886-4321 | ROYSHAWAII.COM


ALOHA

Always Handmade With

On Our Family Farm

Here on the Big Island of Hawai'i, we believe in doing things slowly... That's why we slow-roast our macadamia nuts in small batches, and carefully hand pick our 100% Hamakua coffee.

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The Island of Hawai‘i was born from five separate shield volcanoes, from oldest to youngest, Kohala (extinct), Mauna Kea (dormant), Hualälai (dormant), Mauna Loa (active, last erupted 1984) and Kïlauea (very active). Kïlauea means “spewing” or “much spreading” and it lives up to its name. The volcano has been erupting non-stop since January 3, 1983 and has added more than 543 acres of land. The youngest Hawaiian volcano is Lö‘ihi, an active submerged volcano that lies 3,200 feet below sea level, 18 miles southeast of Hawai‘i Island and has been erupting since 1996. With continued volcanic activity, it is believed that Lö‘ihi will eventually breach sea level and later attach at the surface onto Kïlauea. Presently, this event is predicted to happen about 100,000 years in the future. The Big Island has 266 miles of breathtaking coastline with some of the most beautiful, unique beaches found anywhere. You will find yourself enjoying the best of water recreation on sands from white to black, and gold to green. Hawai‘i Island has a landmass of approximately 4,028 square miles and represents 62 percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands. Because it is nearly twice the size of all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, and to avoid confusion of the state’s name, Hawai‘i Island is often referred to as the Big Island. It is said that King Kamehameha the Great named the unified islands after his birthplace, the island of Hawai‘i. Not only is the land amazingly diverse, so are its residents. According to the 2000 U.S. Census Bureau, Hawai‘i County is the most ethnically diverse county in the United States with more than 28 percent of its residents claiming two or more races in their heritage. You will find the evidence of various influences from Asia to Europe most apparent in the delicious island cuisine. Blending favorite ingredients brought by multiple

ethnic immigrants, modern Hawaiian cuisine is truly a fusion of many favorites BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


ALOHA

Along with the beauty of the land, rich traditions, history and culture are seen throughout the island. from Polynesia, Japan, Korea, Portugal, China, Philippines and America. Try some local favorites such as plate lunch, loco moco, ‘ahi poke, galbi and, of course, kälua pig. Hawai‘i Island is also home for diversified agriculture worth over $300 million annually, including a beef industry that generates revenues of nearly $20 million, producing over five million pounds of beef annually on approximately 650,000 acres of grass. It’s probably difficult for some people to fathom that a magnificent tropical paradise is home for paniolo (cowboys), ranches and rodeos. Parker Ranch is one of the largest and oldest privately owned ranches in the United States and owns about 175,000 acres on the Big Island. Other agriculture includes macadamia nuts, papaya, avocados, tropical and temperate vegetables, Kona coffee, and flowers. Because of Hawai‘i Island’s reputation of growing copious beautiful orchids, it has earned the nickname “the Orchid Isle.” Science and technology have also found a place on the Big

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Island. There are 13 telescopes including four of the biggest and most advanced on top of Mauna Kea, the world’s premier location for observing the sky with exceptionally clear images and clear nights for stargazing. The Natural Energy Lab of Hawai‘i (NELHA) operates an innovative ocean science and technology park where they are exploring the deep sea for discovery of natural organisms that can be used as drugs and cures for the improvement of human health. NELHA has already completed numerous groundbreaking projects creating major commercial development such as turning desalinated deep seawater into ultra-pure bottled drinking water. Along with the beauty of the land, rich traditions, history and culture are seen throughout the island. The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island welcoming visitors with warm smiles. So after you explore the very diverse, very awe-inspiring Big Island, take home and share the spirit of Aloha.

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Sunny Kailua-Kona is a busy seaside village consisting of many historic sites tucked among the open-air shops and oceanfront restaurants along the banyan-shaded Ali‘i Drive. Kailua was once established as the capital of the newly unified Kingdom of Hawai‘i by King Kamehameha I. Later the capital was moved to Lahaina then to Honolulu. Kona is home to the world-renowned Ironman Triathlon and big game fishing. Next to the active Kailua Pier with cruise ships, deep-sea fishing charters, sunset cruises and glass bottom tours, King Kamehameha I maintained his royal residence at Kamakahonu until his death in 1819. Ahu‘ena Heiau is a thatched shrine guarded by sacred wooden images restored by King Kamehameha the Great in 1812 to honor the god Lono. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II, dined with the women breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Hawai‘i’s oldest Christian church was originally a thatch hut built in 1820 when the missionaries arrived aboard the Thaddeus traveling over 18,000 miles from Boston. Moku‘aikana Church was rebuilt in 1837 from an abandoned heiau made of lava and crushed coral. Across the street is Hulihe‘e Palace, which once served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian royalty. Today it houses a collection of beautiful furniture and rare collections. Traveling south on Ali‘i Drive, you will come upon some beautiful beaches to swim, snorkel and bask in the sunshine. Head up to Hölualoa, a quaint little town surrounded by lush tropical foliage, and visit the art galleries, antique stores and charming boutiques. Just south of Kailua lies Keauhou, the birthplace of King Kamehameha III and home to important historical sites. Kuamo’s Battle Burial Grounds dates back to 1819 where an estimated 300 Hawaiians were killed and Ku‘emanu 38

Heiau is an ancient surfing temple next to St. Peter’s Catholic Church. Kealakekua Bay, a marine reserve, offers outstanding snorkeling with a wide variety of colorful fish and spinner dolphins plaingy close to shore. Captain Cook’s Monument rises across the bay where he was killed in 1779. Pu‘uhonua O Hönaunau, Place of Refuge, with its heiau and wooden images of Native Hawaiian gods makes this sacred spot a must-see. Beautiful landscapes captivate you in south Kona with splendid coastlines that hug the highway and charming little towns giving you glimpses of what life was like in Old Hawai‘i. Cultivated on the slopes of Hualälai and Mauna Loa, the worldfamous Kona coffee with its deliciously rich flavor, thrives in their perfect climate. If you are seeking seclusion or tranquility, there is plenty just south of the Kona Coast in Kä Lae, the southernmost point of the U.S. This is where the first Polynesians were thought to have landed around 400 A.D. Be inspired as Mark Twain was by the raw beauty of the Ka‘ü district with its breathtaking views of the coastline and catch an unforgettable sunset on one of the unique, beautiful black or green sand beaches. Mark Twain wrote about his journey through Ka‘ü as, “Portions of that little journey bloomed with beauty. Occasionally we entered small basins walled in with low cliffs, carpeted with greenest grass, and studded with shrubs and small trees whose foliage shone with an emerald brilliancy. One species, called the mamona [mamani], with its bright color, its delicate locust leaf, so free from decay or blemish of any kind, and its graceful shape, chained the eye with a sort of fascination. The rich verdant hue of these fairy parks was relieved and varied by the splendid carmine tassels of the ‘ö‘hia tree. Nothing was lacking but the fairies themselves.” BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: 9LEFT) ERIC FRANKE

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YESTERDAY, TODAY & TOMORROW A LOOK AT THE ISLAND OF HAWAI‘I THROUGH TIME WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


myhawaiitraveler.com

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


Imagine for a moment being magically whisked away

aboard a time machine (a DeLorean perhaps), traveling to any period of interest. Maybe, let’s say, you went back a hundred thousand years, or maybe a million, or even more. If you had boarded your time machine here in Hawai‘i, what might you see? Perhaps you’d be standing at the exact same spot you originated at, but instead of starting off on the Big Island, you would now be on an older island, like Oÿahu or Kauaÿi, or maybe even Midway Atoll. Due to Hawaiÿi’s location on a volcanic hotspot that has been constantly erupting for millions of years, islands have formed, eroded, and sunk back into the sea, all the while moving in a steady northwest direction away from the hotspot due to plate tectonics. What would the view look like from those islands when they were younger? Let’s say, instead, that you hopped back aboard this time machine and jetted into the future. Now the part of the Big Island you had started at would have moved—but to where? Perhaps it might have sunken, a beautiful shoreline that once was, but now only a memory to those no longer around to tell of its beauty. Instead, you find yourself on new land, perhaps even a new island, one we can only dream up in the present. Hawaiÿi grants an almost magical ability to tell the stories of the past, all while writing the present and anticipating the future. All you have to do is get out there and explore. But how will you know what to look for? If you’ve explored the Hawaiian Islands, you would certainly have noticed the different skylines, from Kauaÿi’s famed jagged peaks of Näpali to Big Island’s gentler, though drastically taller, volcanoes, and all shapes in between. You might have marveled at the closeness of Maui, Länaÿi, Molokaÿi, and Kahoÿolawe, without realizing that at some point in the past, they were all connected as one island. Perhaps, it once looked like the Big Island, with its five distinct volcanoes—could your present location someday be on a separate island, no longer connected to the other neighboring volcanoes you see outside your door?

myhawaiitraveler.com

Interestingly, the answer is likely to be yes. We can see this through evidence of an already missing volcano of the Big Island, located below sea level. Did you know this place even existed? Recently, I stumbled across this fact and was taken aback that the island’s slow descent back into the sea has already taken place in a quite dramatic fashion. This submerged volcano, Mähukona, is located off the North Kona through North Kohala coastlines. Though we cannot see its peak, evidence of its existence remains—topographical maps of the seabed reveal its shape, and underwater studies have revealed a sunken coral reef. Having last erupted 350,000 to 400,000 years ago, this volcano is our island’s oldest, with its closest neighbor volcano, Kohala, last erupting roughly 65,000 years ago. Had you traveled back to the days of its submarine eruptions, you would have had to stand on Maui as the Big Island was still only but a dream, waiting for the day that it might eventually rise above the sea. Alas, that day never came for Mähukona, but luckily for all of us, the five volcanoes that make up the Big Island eventually did. For those wondering what the landscape might have been like long ago, the Big Island abounds with clues. Take a drive to Waipiÿo or Pololü Valley lookouts and follow the dramatic coastline contours. As you gaze at the stunning panorama, you might notice that the coastline looks quite different from the rest of the island—leading you to think something disastrous must have happened here at one point. Scientists have found evidence of a debris avalanche of land, once belonging to Kohala Volcano, piled on the seafloor. Today, the beautiful vistas, admired by thousands of visitors each year, evoke tranquility while diminishing the immense drama that took place here long ago. When you gaze out at the jaw-dropping scenery, try to imagine what the coastline might have looked like all those years ago, still intact. For those looking for a little more recent history, one needs only to study the latest volcanic activity. Looking for something that took place in the last 200 or so years? If you landed at the Ellison Onizuka Kona 45


International Airport, you would have seen Hualälai’s most recent eruption. Covering a large swatch of North Kona terrain, the black lava left an indelible impression on those living contemporaneously of the eruption, as well as visitors who first catch a glimpse of the unusual landscape from their airplane’s window. A little further up the coastline you can see the 1859 eruption from Mauna Loa, as it slithered its way down to Kïholo Bay, destroying a village and massive fishpond. This eruption lasted 300 days and was so bright and voluminous that people could see the light from the south side of Maui, and could use its glow to read in the dark in Waimea. Those who hike to Kïholo Bay and reach its stunning shoreline only need to imagine a time not so long ago when Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of fire, reshaped the coastline. Of course, many people know of Hawaiÿi’s s most famous and recently most prolific volcano, Kïlauea. Back when it started erupting in 1983, it was hard to imagine how much the Big Island would change over time. Kaimü Beach, located in Kalapana, used to be a beautiful strand of black sand framed by idyllic coconut palms. In 1990, lava inundated this unique beach, wiping it off the map. However, over time, a new beach has formed in its place. You can still see where the old shoreline existed; but now to get to the beach, you must walk 5 to 10 minutes before being greeted with a new strand of midnight black sand. Industrious caretakers planted palms nearby, a promise to future visitors that Kaimü Beach is a place that not only lives in the past and present, but also dreams of the future. With the significant May 2018 eruption that displaced thousands of 46

people, covered neighborhoods, and wiped out some of Puna’s most stunning shoreline, the past, present, and future collided in intense and disastrous fashion. One cannot help but be in awe of the display of power or the unpredictability of an actively erupting volcano, and for those lucky enough to visit Kïlauea from 1983 to 2018, we saw firsthand the magic of Earth at work. An even newer black sand beach at Isaac Hale Beach Park, Pohoiki, only came into existence within the past year due to this recent eruption. Sadly, some beloved spots like Kapoho Tidepools, Green Lake and Ahalanui Beach Park were consumed by lava and are sorely missed. Though Kïlauea is no longer erupting, the scientists of the Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park are actively at work studying the most recent eruption, attempting to anticipate the eruptions of the future, as it is only a matter of when, not if, that Pele will awaken from her slumber once again. There’s no official way to predict when, though there are clues that scientists look for. The reality is the Big Island will continue to grow, all the while battering the ravages of wind, rain and time. The Pacific Plate will continue to inch its way northwestward, and a new island, Löÿihi, will likely soon (well, only if you consider the next 100,000 years “soon”) poke its head above the sea. The everchanging landscape is a reminder to us all to appreciate nature’s gems in our present time. Go experience them and take plenty of pictures while they are still here for us to enjoy. You never know when Pele will decide it’s time to reshape the island again and take claim of our cherished sites. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


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Historic North & Sunny South Out of the first section of the Big Island to rise from the sea lies spectacular white sand beaches, world-renowned golf, luxurious resorts and spas, and a chic offering of restaurants and shops. Besides the plush effects, the weather also gives the Kohala District the nickname “the Gold Coast.” The sunniest destination on the island boasts both nationally-ranked beaches and some very secluded hidden gems. Add some swaying palm trees and incredible sunsets and you will call it paradise. The multiple hues of blue from the crystal clear water and green from the fairways are a dramatic contrast against the black lava fields that line the majestic coastline. Beautiful views of Mauna Kea and Maui are included along with major provocative history that unified the islands of Hawai‘i. The Pu‘ukoholä Heiau in Kawaihae is a significant historical site for the statehood of Hawai‘i. King Kamehameha built the heiau with strict guidelines to dedicate it to his family war god, to fulfill the prophecy of conquering all the islands. Kawaihae is an alluring harbor town with a handful of original shops and delectable restaurants favored by locals. It’s a great place to kick back and relax and watch the busy activities of the harbor. Fish with the locals or bask in the sunshine on a sandy beach next to the boat ramp. Travel north to Häwï and Kapa‘au. Once they were busy commercial centers during the operation of the Kohala Sugar plantation and served as large camps for many countries. Regional cuisines were shared among the workers and diversity was beautifully woven into the community. Take the time to explore the charming boutiques of Häwï to find treasures to take home with you. Be sure to come hungry and dine at the sushi restaurant, which serves creative, delectable delights with unique island flair you won’t find anywhere else. Visit the original King Kamehameha Statue commissioned by King David Kaläkaua as it stands proudly at the legendary birthplace of the Great King in Kapa‘au. The statue was intended for Honolulu, but was lost in a shipwreck off the coast of South America. Another statue was commissioned and the replica was sent to Honolulu. The original was salvaged and returned to its rightful place in Kapa‘au in 1912. A few miles past Kapa‘au, Pololü Valley Lookout offers stunning, breathtaking views of coastline and valley. The hike down is easy and you will be rewarded with a beautiful black sand beach. However, going up is a different story. Upcountry from Kawaihae, Waimea is a beautiful place still alive with its cowboy heritage that has breathtaking views of Kohala Mountain and Mauna Kea. Because it is set on higher elevation, a sweater may be needed to enjoy the surroundings. It is home to Parker Ranch, paniolo (cowboys) and rodeos and the quaint community has the feel of Colorado in springtime. Although the landscape has changed dramatically from its spectacular beginnings with prime resorts and trendy shops along the Kohala Coast, the tradition of aloha remains the true splendor of the land. 48

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP) ERIC FRANKE

DESTINATIONS

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GOLF

ISLAND GOLF HAPUNA GOLF COURSE

This Arnold Palmer/Ed Seay-designed 18-hole championship course is nestled into the dramatic natural contours of the land from the shoreline to about 700 feet above sea level. This beautiful course features spectacular vistas of the Kohala Coast and the Pacific, with snow-capped Mauna Kea volcano as a backdrop. Hapuna’s challenging play and environmental sensitivity make it one of Hawai‘i’s most unique golf courses. Tee times: (808) 880-3000.

HUALĀLAI RESORT

The Hualälai Golf Course, the first Jack Nicklaus Signature Course on the Big Island is home of the PGA Champions Tour Mitsubishi Electric Championship every January. This carefully groomed course was designed with a sense of place. Special care was taken to preserve the historic King’s Trail located on the course, and other significant cultural sites at the resort. Residents and residential guests of Hualälai along with guests of the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai may enjoy this great facility, which includes a nine-acre driving range with 27,000 square foot short game practice area. For information, please call (808) 325-8480.

MAUNA KEA GOLF COURSE

For over 40 years, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel has been the most celebrated resort in Hawaii. And Mauna Kea Golf Course, carved out of ancient lava flows by Robert

Trent Jones, Sr., is consistently ranked among the top 10 in the world. This course which emulates the legend of Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise, boasts the famed 3rd hole, where surging blue inlet waves thunder against a rocky black shoreline for an experience you’ll remember forever. Without changing the essential character of his father’s design, Rees Jones completed a tee-to-green renovation in the fall of 2008. (808) 882-5400.

MAUNA LANI RESORT NORTH COURSE

The North Course, becoming known as the tournament course, is a bit more difficult than the South Course, displays a much different face of Hawai‘i Golf. Built on a lava bed, it is characterized by rolling terrain punctuated by kiawe forests. Trees often come into play on this course. Number 17, a par-3 tucked into a natural lava amphitheater, is another one of the resort’s signature holes and a favorite “I was here” photo spot. Public. 18 holes. 68-1310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

MAUNA LANI RESORT SOUTH COURSE

The South Course snakes through the stark, rugged a‘a lava of the prehistoric Kaniku lava flow. Besides great golf, the challenging course offers the player a panorama of mountain and ocean views. The South Course is home to No. 15, one of the most photographed overthe-water golf holes in the world. Public. 18 holes. 681310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

WAIKOLOA RESORT BEACH COURSE

Weaving its way through rolling lava beds, down to the surf, the Waikoloa Beach Course is simply breathtaking. Designed by Rober Trent Jones Jr., this par-70, 6,566 yard course offers strategically placed water features and immaculate greens that are well guarded by the course’s 74 white sand bunkers. The crowning glory of the Beach Course is the intimidating, par 5, 502 yard 12th hole. Playing along the Pacific Ocean, the 12th hole not only offers challenging golf, it is a great place to watch humpback whales and catch splendid views of the other Hawaiian Islands. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

WAIKOLOA RESORT KINGS’ COURSE

Waikoloa Kings’ Course is one of the most challenging and picturesque golf courses in Hawai‘i. This Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish design was named one of the top 100 on Golfweek’s 2005 “America’s Best Resort Courses” list. The Kings’ Course uniquely provides golfers the best of two worlds; golf on an island paradise offering uninterrupted views of snow-capped Mauna Kea, on a course that more closely resembles a layout along the coast of Scotland. The 7,064 yard links-style golf course is highlighted by six lakes, 83 sand traps, and wide undulating fairways. Kings’ offers a solid, strategic layout that requires a golfer to think his way around the course. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

Two ouTsTanding golf courses, one unforgettable experience.

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M AUNA KEA GOLF COURSE, HOLE 3

HAPUNA GOLF COURSE, HOLE 10

It’s hard to believe that before 1964 golf didn’t exist on the Island of Hawai‘i. With spectacular ocean views from every hole, both the Hapuna and Mauna Kea Golf Courses are sure to take your breath away. Try your hand at Mauna Kea, a course that helped define Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise or experience Hapuna’s unique Scottish links-style play. Both courses are highly awarded; the Mauna Kea has ranked among Golf Digest’s Top 100 since 1969. No matter which course you choose, you’re not likely to forget it. Master the unforgettable today by calling 808-882-5405 to set up a tee time.

M A U N A K E A G O L F. C O M M AUNA KEA GOLF COURSE, HOLE 11

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WAIMEA NEI FROM THE BEGINNING

WORDS PETER THOENE IMAGE ERIC FRANKE 52

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


Sometime over a thousand years ago, the best sailors human history has ever known navigated from the remote islands of Tahiti to an even more isolated island archipelago. The Hawaiian Islands, as they are known to the world today, stretch some 1,500 miles across the largest ocean on planet Earth. However, when these Tahitian sailors arrived on the shores, these islands had no name. Nothing on them had a name. The white sandy beaches, the rivers, the forests, the snow-capped mountains, the bogs, the deserts, the erupting volcanoes were devoid of labels. The discoverers didn’t even have a vocabulary for the molten rock flowing out of the cracks in the earth, seemingly at random. They had no name for the frozen substance fluttering from the sky on top of volcanic mountain peaks. How could they? They had never seen or heard of anything like Hawaiÿi before. The immense task of devising a nomenclature for this island paradise fell into the hands of these poetic explorers. They named rivers, beaches, and mountain monstrosities. They named new things, never before seen things, like lava and snow, native birds and tiny bugs, trees, vines, and fish. They named an entire world with elegance and scientific poetry we still use to this day: Waikïkï: lit., spouting water. Said to have been named after the pouring of river water into marshes and swamps that dominated that area. Kailua: lit., two seas. Named, most likely, for the two ocean currents typical of Hawaiÿi, and especially in these coastal towns. Waimea: lit., reddish water, after the color of the red dirt that can runoff into the streams. The soil below Waimea Town is old. Even of the more recent lava flows that covered Waimea some 200,000 years ago. In the thousands of years to follow, natural processes like erosion, decaying organic material, and oxidation has turned the lava into a reddish soil. When the first explorers arrived, they observed the soil, and named the area Waimea. Today, Waimea is a quiet town resting on top of where two volcanoes touch—Kohala on the north side of town, and Mauna Kea to the south. Kohala rises quickly and dramatically behind Waimea Town, with its buildings and houses nestled snugly at the base. The lime green pastures on the slopes of Kohala are adorned with cows, horses and streams which all move languidly underneath rushing puffy clouds that often host vibrant, but fleeting rainbows. Mauna Kea myhawaiitraveler.com

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lifestyle. The paniolo, or Hawaiian cowboy, was born. Waimea’s own Ikua Purdy took first prize in the World’s Steer Roping Championship in 1908 in Cheyenne, Wyoming. Purdy upstaged the mainland cowboys by roping, throwing, and tying the steer in 56 seconds—all on a borrowed horse. Purdy had worked at Parker Ranch, which was founded and to this day headquartered in Waimea Town. Parker Ranch began operations in 1847, an astonishing 30 years before many famous ranches in Texas. Today, a large bronze statue of Purdy roping a steer prominently displayed in town pays tribute to the world-famous Hawaiian cowboy, who was inducted into the National Rodeo Cowboy Hall of Fame in 1999. Meanwhile, in the forests that did remain on the slopes of Kohala above Waimea, a new threat emerged—globalism. Halfway across the largest ocean on the planet, the Chinese affinity for the fragrant hardwood of a native Hawaiian tree, the ÿiliahi (sandalwood), kickstarted Hawaiÿi’s very first export—sandalwood. Men lined up by the thousands carrying as much of the native ÿiliahi as they could down the slopes of Kohala to the ships docked below. This lucrative sandalwood bubble eventually burst in the early 1840s, leaving a decimated forest in its place. In 1899, Walter Maxwell, the Chief Chemist of the Hawaiÿi Sugar Planters Association observed, “…vast breadths of superb forests have dried up, and are now dead and bare.” The Hawaiians have a saying: Hahai nö ka ua i ka ululäÿau. Rain always follows the forest. Fewer forests means less rain. No rain, no watersheds. No watersheds, no water. No water, no life. Getting angry at our ancestors for their decisions is fruitless. What we can do is learn from their mistakes and move forward. A BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY; (THIS PAGE ALL/OPPOSITE) ERIC FRANKE

looms in the distance with a lofty summit elevation of almost 14,000 feet above sea level. When snowcapped, the view of Mauna Kea from Waimea Town is humbling. Locals across the state tend to get a far-off, dreamy look in their eye when Waimea is mentioned, usually followed by a deep sigh and a declaration that someday, they’d like to retire in Waimea. The first Hawaiians to populate Waimea were descendants of those brave Tahitian explorers. As the small community grew into a large settlement, most likely around the 1100s to 1200s, this group of people burned swaths of the native forest to make room for farming. They built extensive rock walls to contain fertile soil in massive terraced farm plots. These plots were irrigated by canals pulling water from the Waimea streams, ingeniously utilizing gravity to keep the water flowing. Farmers grew kalo (taro), sugar cane, and sweet potato. Native birds chirped in the forest. The population boomed to about 10,000 people before Western contact. Post Western contact quickly and dramatically changed the landscape of Waimea forever. Why? Two species: Bos taurus, and Santalum paniculatum—cattle and sandalwood. Cattle were unloaded on Hawaiÿi by Captain George Vancouver in 1793. The few cows that Vancouver gifted to King Kamehameha multiplied to over 25,000 only 5 decades later. A majority of these cows roamed free, unfettered by fences, into the forests. These powerful ungulates treated Hawaiÿi’s native flora like an all-you-caneat salad buffet. Stomping through the undergrowth and chomping on anything trying to grow, cattle quickly turned green into brown. To take care of the four-legged problem, in rode the SpanishMexican vaqueros from California. They taught the Hawaiian people the ways of ranching and cattle management, who in turn elevated the


few collectives in Waimea have joined forces to show just how we can move forward into the future, by looking toward the environmental example of our Hawaiian past, while simultaneously applying a modern knowledge. These groups are The Waimea Outdoor Circle, Waimea Trails and Greenways Committee, and Nähelehele. The self-described mission of Waimea Outdoor Circle is to “keep Waimea clean, green, and beautiful.” One of the ways they are doing this is through the Ulu Laÿau nature park. Ulu Laÿau is a 10-acre parcel of state land in the heart of Waimea. The Outdoor Circle leases this land for “environmental research, education and restoration.” Their team and volunteers are methodically removing invasives plants and replacing them with native ones, especially plants that are endangered or threatened. The park is open to the public and is a wonderful place to enjoy a picnic under the shelter of native trees, or listen to the rushing water of the Waikoloa Stream that winds through the park. Alongside the Waikoloa Stream is a trail called, Ke Ala Kahawai o Waimea. The Waimea Trails and Greenways committee is an ad hoc advocacy group for the trail. Clemson Lam has been the chairman of this committee since 1994. Lam believes “the trail could be the single most important physical project to enhance community ties to the natural landscape of Waimea.” Lam sees this natural path—away from man-made infrastructure —as a safe way for children to get to school, and for community members to exercise or socialize. Studies show that neighborhoods with more shared community space, or social infrastructure as it is sometimes called, prove to be safer communities overall. Roughly three miles downstream of Ulu Laÿau is a new park called ÿÖuli Park. The park itself is not quite dialed in yet. The non-profit Nähelehele recently broke ground on the park. It is just one of their many habitat restoration projects. The vision for ÿÖuli Park is to be “…a demonstration area, showcasing various innovative techniques for watershed best management practices and…to increase awareness of native ecosystems.” ÿÖuli Park and Ulu Laÿau will eventually be connected by Ke Ala Kahawai o Waimea. Groups like The Waimea Outdoor Circle, The Waimea Trails and Greenways, and Nähelehele show us that we can still look back at the past while moving forward. Mistakes are nothing but lessons. The future is nature. The best way to experience this vision is to stroll the trail and parks yourself. Or better yet, volunteer. If the original settlers were to return to Waimea today, they may not recognize it. But little pearls of restoration are springing up, ensuring that future generations will understand her full natural glory. To learn more or to volunteer, visit Waimea Outdoor Circle at www.waimeaoutdoorcircle.org/waimea-naturepark/ and Nähelehele at drylandforest.org/dry-forestcorridors/ouli-park. myhawaiitraveler.com

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TIMELESS STYLE

H

ildgund’s at Dawkins Benny since 1873 is the oldest and only store that carried authentic Hawaiian Jewelry and Coat of Arms. Hildgund’s original Hawaiian jewelry, with dated document recorded December 10, 1911, is now on display in the Bishop Museum. After Hildgund’s retiring in 1995, her downtown Honolulu shop closed after 122 years of business. The store’s closure ended her production of Hawaiian Jewelry and

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" YOU CAN BUY HAWAIIAN BRACELETS ALL ACROSS HAWAI‘I AND ONLINE, BUT NOT WITH THE QUALITY OF HILDGUND. EACH BRACELET IS ONE OF A KIND."

Coat of Arms. With 47 years of experience on the bench, Hildgund’s jeweler, and a third generation hand engraver from Hildgund Jewelry in the 1980's, along with her son Bruce Bucky, have teamed up to recreate Hildgund’s original Hawaiian jewelry once again. Hildgund welcomes the quality and workmanship of what Hildgund Hawaiian bracelets have been for all these years. The designs are exclusive to Hildgund Jewelry.

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BIG ISLAND • New Location On Corner of Maiau Street & Kamanu Street Across from Costco • 808.329.6500 Hand Woven • Natural Fibers Silk • Wool • Hemp • Bamboo Silk Custom Design & Sizes Available Showroom Open Every Day 10am to 6pm Free Shipping & Local Delivery (with minimum purchase)

OAHU Na Lama Kukui • 808.524.7769 Ward Avenue • 808.596.7333

MAUI Kahului • 808.877.7200 myhawaiitraveler.com

WWW.HAWAIIANRUGS.COM

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BECOME BRILLIANT Hildgund boasts a wide array of precious and semiprecious colored gems, fine jade and pearls, plus an exceptional selection of internally flawless colored diamonds in the state. With one-of-a-kind pieces like the brilliant 3.03 Carat natural pink sapphire (left) and the 4.39 Carat fancy yellow diamond, internally flawless (below). Visit their Big Island locations at Four Seasons Resort HualÄ lai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, or Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (800) 636-3306 or visit hildgund.com.

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PHOTO COURTESY: (BOTTOM) TIFFANY & CO.; (TOP) MAUI DIVERS

The Hawaiian Heritage Collection from Maui Divers features a coral branch design that reflects the company's origins. Shown above is a 14K gold necklace ($2695) in the coral branch design, this is complemented with black coral ring, also in 14K gold ($495). Available at Maui Divers Jewelry in the Kings' Shops at Waikoloa.

Tiffany T square bracelet in 18k rose gold with pavĂŠ diamonds ($11,500). TIFFANY CT60ÂŽ Dual Time 3-Hand 40 mm watch in stainless steel ($5650). Available at Tiffany & Co. in the Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Resort.


PIECES OF PARADISE

These Spessartite Bead Hoops from Nina Runsdorf are part of the gemstone group with an orange to red hue. Made of 18-karat rose gold, these designer hoop earrings feature orange beads totaling 61.70 carats, and orange sapphire melee. Show off these Nina Runsdorf earrings on your next island adventure ($15,000). Available at Seaside Luxe in Hualālai Resort, home of Four Seasons Resort Hualālai.

Hawaii’s native plants provide glimpses of tropical beauty with Hawaiian lobelioids being one of the most spectacular examples of island evolution. These plants have curved flowers to match the bill of their endemic bird pollinators who drink their nectar. The lobelia hypoleuca, or Opelu, is the most widespread—found in the upland rainforests and mesic forests of the six largest Hawaiian Island—and beautifully documented here in oil paint by artist Melissa Chimera. To discover more original works by Hawaii’s master artists, visit Tiffany’s Art Agency in Hawi or shop TiffanysArtAgency.com

Indich Collection showcases its own Gingko Fan design in its newest color way. Hand woven with Tibetan wool and silk accents. Indich specializes in Hawaiian, Pacific Rim, and Persian style rugs and has put its artistic imprint on Hawai‘i's finest homes and resorts. Available at Indich Collection at 73-5617 Maiau St. in Kona, just above Costco. Visit indichcollectionhawaii.net or call the showroom at (808) 329-6500.

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Picture a thousand words...

CAPTURE capturehawaii.com

Weddings • Engagements • Lifestyle • Commercial • Editorial • Maternity • Real Estate • Newborn Food and Beverage • Events • Portraits • Family memories • Fashion • Matterport

@wecapturehawaii

info@capturehawaii.com

(808) 209-1712


STYLE

ISLAND SHOPPING INDICH COLLECTION FINE ORIENTAL CARPETS & HAWAIIAN RUGS Indich Collection offers unique rug designs, flavored with the richness and casual elegance of the islands. Using the finest natural fibers and knowing that quality is too important to compromise, Indich Collection has created one of the most artful collections of handwoven rugs available anywhere. With the largest inventory in the Pacific and direct import Custom Design Program, you’ll find an unlimited choice of rug designs, sizes, colors and quality.. Visit our Kona Showroom…open everyday or by appointment! Add Aloha to your home. Indich Collection Showrooms: Kona Industrial Park (808) 3296500, on Oahu (808) 524-7769, on Maui (808) 877-7200 or visit hawaiianrugs.com. HILDGUND JEWELERS Founded in 1873, Hildgund is the ultimate in fine custom designs and handcrafted jewelry. Every piece unique by its elegance, every piece one of a kind. A wide selection of precious and semi-precious colored stones plus many varieties of fine jade. The almost unlimited choice of their diamond collection is only of the highest quality. Customers worldwide have returned to a Hildgund location time and again, convinced

that they have found one of the finest jewelry boutiques anywhere. On the Big Island we are located in the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai (808) 325-0606, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (808) 885-6617 and Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (808) 882-1861. Visit hildgund. com for store locations on Maui and Oahu. KINGS’ SHOPS The Big Island’s most exciting collection of shopping, dining and services can be found at Kings’ Shops. Visitors and residents enjoy onestop shopping that includes everything from high-end boutiques and one-of-a-kind jewelry to art galleries and activity centers to designer wear and spectacular gifts. Also home to an array of dining options, from award-winning Pacific Rim cuisine to on-the-go snacks. Located in the Waikoloa Beach Resort. Open daily from 9:30am to 9:30pm. For more information, call (808) 886-8811 or kingsshops.com. AHUALOA FARMS Ahualoa Farms sits on the slopes of Mauna Kea Volcano and began harvesting and offering great tasting macadamia nuts and Hawaiian coffee in 2005, selling products locally at farmers markets and small stores. Today, Ahualoa Farms

A CUT ABOVE

products have become highly praised and sought after worldwide. From delicious hand-picked and roasted macadamia nuts, to perfectly roasted coffees, they have something for everyone. Visit the store in Honoka‘a town or shop online at ahualoafarms.com. PERSIMMON Before you go anywhere else to shop for the trendiest clothes or gifts made in Hawai‘i, you must go to Persimmon. Persimmon offers the latest in fashion with brands like Wildfox, Saint Grace, Sundry, Seven Jeans, Goddis, Ella Moss, Free People, Maui Mari Jewelry, Hard Tail, Michael Stars, Young Fabulous & Broke, and more. This charming boutique is a local favorite for its wide selection of great gifts including, candles, journals, paper products, jewelry, shoes and even must-have body care products. Persimmon receives new merchandise every two weeks to keep you dressed in the latest styles. Persimmon offers personalized service with a warm smile. Be envied. Shop Persimmon. You will be glad you did. Open daily. Located in the Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa Resort. Call (808) 886-0303 or persimmonboutique.com.

For the man who has everything, William Henry designs creates a range of tools so perfectly conceived and executed that they transcend superlative function to become superlative art. The typical knife takes more than eight months from conception to completion. Shown here is the the Ali‘i, a Hildgund exclusive limited edition knife featuring Peridot and Koa wood. Available locally at Hildgund Jewelers, located within the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows.

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QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE In addition to shopping, enjoy Hawaiian cultural performances at the Coronation Pavilion, weekly cultural offerings with our kupuna, and movies under the stars every Friday. You’re meant to enjoy this tropical marketplace with pools of lily pads and open spaces between shops offering fashionable apparel, jewelry, art and fun gifts. Located at Waikoloa Beach Resort, open daily 9:30am – 9:30pm. Call (808) 886-8822 or visit QueensMarketPlace.net. SEASIDE LUXE The true definition of resort luxury can be found directly below the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai’s hotel lobby, inside Seaside Luxe Boutique. Here you will find the world’s most premier fashion lines including the precious gems of Irene Neuwirth, a well known visual artist and one of the leading jewelry designers in the U.S. Her unique pieces are inspired by nature and her free spirit. Open daily 8:00am – 7:00pm. For more information, please call (808) 3254765. THE SHOPS AT MAUNA LANI The Shops at Mauna Lani, located in the heart of the Kohala Coast, is the place for that special combination of brand name quality and unique local craftsmanship. From designer fashions to casual beachwear, and unique custom accessories, you can find something wonderful for everyone. There are eight great dining options, from quick and casual to fine dining. Don’t miss our complimentary cultural lessons at 5:30pm on Mondays and Thursdays, followed by our famous hula show. Join us for a uniquely Hawaiian experience, located in the Mauna Lani Resort, open daily from 10 AM to 9 PM. For more information, call (808) 8859501 or visit shopsatmaunalani.com. TIFFANY'S ART AGENCY GALLERY Join us as we dive deep into Hawai‘i’s contemporary art scene, unveiling hidden local talent creating masterful works of art. It’s a gallery full of joyful creative expression and connection with exclusive shows that change monthly, 2nd Saturday Collectors Receptions, and local style “talk story” events with the featured artists. Shop online at TiffanysArtAgency.com or in the gallery and discover your wonder and inspiration as you collect art and memories made in Hawai‘i. Located in Hawi next to Sushi Rock. Call (808) 747-5882 for more information. myhawaiitraveler.com

Tiffany’s A A rt

gency

contemporary local art & home decor from Hawaii’s master artists 55-3435 Akoni Pule Hwy. #9 | Hawi, HI | next to Sushi Rock Get the FREE

Tiffany’s Art Agency App Place Art to Scale on Your Walls Shop TiffanysarTagency.com

Tiffany@TiffanysArtAgency.com | 808-747-5882 Top: Sunrise by Timothy Allan Shafto | Hawaiian koa wood, sand, & resin colorflow painting in integral koa frame | 48” h x 72” w Left: Uhu by Kristie Fujiyama Kosmides | Oil on canvas | 42” h x 42” w

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SWIMSUITS FOR EVERY BODY WORDS COCO ZICKOS IMAGES PIKAI SWIM HAWAII

Malia Lins Costa, owner of PIKAI Swim Hawaii, incorporates the beauty of the Hawaiian Islands into her entire swimwear line. An intricate twist resembles a ti leaf lei and an elaborate entwine replicates woven lauhala. “The lace and ringlets move like a river, stream, or waterfall, cascading down the body,” says Malia. Creating swimsuits that embody different elements of nature is one of the many things that sets her business apart. But what really makes PIKAI stand out is that each suit is custom-crafted to emphasize the individual structure and beauty of a woman. In other words, every swimsuit is tailormade to fit women of any age, shape or size. “Our designs focus on complementing what is already naturally there,” says Malia. “If you have insecurities, we find a way to accentuate your features in designs that can be truly worn by all. These styles were made to flatter all body types.” myhawaiitraveler.com

Customers select the colors, patterns and designs they love and, based upon their measurements, have a suit constructed to fit their unique body structure. It takes the stress out of swimsuit shopping and helps women feel their best. “I didn’t want the stigma of bikini shopping to restrict any person from feeling beautiful and comfortable in their own skin, at their most vulnerable,” says Malia. “I wanted all to feel like they had a place where the suit changes for them, and they don’t feel the need to change for a swimsuit.” Her business was actually born because Malia faced her own struggles finding the right fit and “perfect suit.” Since she had such a hard time achieving the task, she took matters into her own hands and made her own. Luckily, Malia already knew how to sew—her older sister left behind a sewing machine after moving out. “I would go through her materials, and taught myself how 65


to make clothes for my dolls and gifts for my friends and family. I spent a lot of time making and creating alone as a young girl,” says Malia. So, it wasn’t a problem when she set out to make her own swimwear. This evolved into creating pieces for family and friends, which grew to taking orders for people who heard about her custom designs, and by 2012, she was running a full-fledged business. It didn’t hurt that the Big Island resident, who was born and raised on Oÿahu, spent most of her life in the ocean swimming, surfing or sailing. Wearing swimsuits all day, every day, led to an understanding of their functionality, which continues to play a significant role in her business savvy and success today. “I worked years just experimenting with flattering styles that would fit with a super comfort, but also could wear actively,” she says. Moreover, while Malia attended Maryland Institute College of Art, she spent plenty of time working with the human form studying sculpture. She even expands upon her product’s accommodation to the human form by creating reversible swimsuits that offer adjustable looks to increase the swimsuit’s longevity. The Kona top, Onda bottoms and Lace Up Monokini are a few of the styles that integrate her many concepts of multi-functionality. “These designs fit your body without digging in and restricting,” she says. “Instead it has a flattering, comfortable look that makes every person that tries them on feel amazed and beautiful within their own body.” Another aspect that drives the uniqueness of Malia’s brand is that she uses Brazilian fabric hand-selected during her annual trip to Brazil to visit her husband’s family. The material is antibacterial with UV protectant, and is 66

lightweight and soft, making it comfortable enough to be worn all day. “It doesn’t deteriorate,” says Malia. “The softness is unmatched to any textile I have found.” Swimsuit orders and measurements are made online with a live chat feature that allows customers to ask immediate questions. Or, customers can visit PIKAI’s retail space in Kailua-Kona, which provides an opportunity to see color combinations and prints, such as florals, in-person. Here, customers can also try on different types of designs, as well as bottom coverage—thong, cheeky, moderate, and full—in one or two-piece styles, before placing a custom order. The store also offers collections ready for purchase in case customers don’t have time to wait for something tailormade. Inventory at PIKAI also includes leggings, bodysuits, rash guards and active wear made with the same high-quality material as the suits, for easy transition from sea to land. To grow from working in a spare room by herself in her home to having a production space above a storefront with a team of dedicated female employees who help bring an uplifting swimsuit experience to other women, brings Malia great joy. “We don’t convince women they need to alter themselves. Every time I see someone try on a suit, you can see their self-love radiate and glow. They have something that was made for them, their body, and their needs,” says Malia. “All of our customers leave with a whole new positive perspective of self-love and confidence.” PIKAI Swim Hawaii is open from 11am to 5pm Monday thru Saturday and is located at 74-5604 Luhia Street in Kona. Visit pikaiswimhawaii.com or call (808) 315-1848 for more information. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


myhawaiitraveler.com

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70 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 76 AMERICAN WINES 80 CELEBRATE GOOD TIMES 88 THE HOT SPOT

THE BEE'S KNEES AT LUANA LOUNGE IN THE FAIRMONT ORCHID 68

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Front row seats available

(808) 325 - 8000 fourseasons.com/hualalai


TASTE

AWARD-WINNING, ISLAND INSPIRED.

KOHALA COAST BEACH TREE The ocean side Beach Tree is an experience…a place to enjoy casual dining and linger longer, where the focus is on fresh, local, seasonal and handmade cuisine. The cuisine is Cal-Ital... Innovative Italian dishes infused with California flavors. Handcrafted cocktails incorporating fresh, local fruit as well as sangria and a selection of wines are also featured. At the center of the resort, it is a place to meet, connect with friends and family and celebrate lifestyle. With the combination of restaurant, lounge and bar, the experiences meet a variety of guests’ needs. The server and guest interaction promotes ‘ohana. Children’s (ages 5 – 12) menu is available. Serving lunch, dinner and drinks daily, with Hawaiian entertainment nightly from 6-8:30 p.m. Casual resort attire. Located at the Four Seasons Hualälai Resort. For reservations call (808) 325-8000 or fourseasons.com/hualalai. BIG ISLAND BURRITOS A contemporary fresh island Mexican grill featuring signature Island Style Burritos, Loaded Rice Bowls, Local Farm Salads, and Fresh Soft Tacos! We have multiple styles and flavors to choose from. Their menu features straight-forward and self-explanatory menu items and caters to foodies looking for big burritos. Located in the food court at Queens' MarketPlace in Waikoloa Beach Resort.

Brown’s Beach House. Hawai`i Island cuisine and balmy

BROWN’S BEACH HOUSE Big Island-inspired cutting edge cuisine takes center stage at The Fairmont Orchid’s Brown’s Beach House restaurant known for its expansive ocean views, incomparable cuisine and sophisticated service with Aloha. Innovative island-inspired cuisine is drawn from simple, pure flavors of locally grown produce using the diverse variety of fresh seafood from our island waters and the finest mainland meats. Open nightly for dinner beginning at 5:30 p.m. Located oceanside at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 887-7368.

tropical breezes beckon. Unwind as the sun dips beneath the sea. Taste awardwinning favors featuring locally grown produce. Savor the best from the surf and the turf. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 8:30 pm. For reservations, call 808.887.7368 or visit fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii.

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COPPER BAR After a multi-million dollar renovation, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel welcomes diners back to its iconic gathering place, the new Copper Bar. While the relaxed setting and magical sunsets remain, the bright new look and shared-plates culinary concept are shaking things up in a fun and inspired way. An elongated bar, a TV “lounge” area, an elevated communal dining table, multiple dining nooks, and open view planes accentuate the true centerpiece of Copper Bar—gorgeous panoramic views of Kauna‘oa Bay. Open daily 11am-11pm with complimentary valet parking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


TASTE HAWAII CALLS RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Enjoy an elaborate daily breakfast buffet and a la carte menu. Salads, sandwiches and tropical drinks are available for lunch poolside or in the seated dining area. Dinner features Americanand Pacific Rim-style cuisine. Located at the Marriott Waikoloa Beach Resort. Call (808) 886-8111. THE HUALĀLAI GRILLE A classic American steakhouse with local flair. Set above the 18th green of the famed Hualälai Golf Course, Hualälai Grille evokes a contemporary club feel, with dark wood flooring and magnificent golf course and ocean views. Serving Prime steaks with hand crafted traditional sides, island fresh fish, local Hämäkua Mushrooms, and Macadamia Nut Toffee Ice Cream Pie are just a few of Chef James Ebrero’s signature dishes. The Bar offers an extensive cocktail menu including the “19th Hole” Absolute Ruby Red Vodka, fresh squeezed Kohala grapefruit and lime juices and agave nectar. In addition, Hualälai Grille’s extensive wine list includes both wines by the glass and bottle, along with a wide beer selection. Hualälai Grille is open for dinner Wednesday through Monday, with reservations available from 5:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. For information, please call (808) 325-8450 or (808) 325-8525. KAMUELA PROVISION COMPANY Captivating sunset ocean views are the perfect complement to enjoying our new menu. Experience our mouth-watering cuisine of the Big Island. World class service in a world class setting. Open nightly for dinner and cocktails. Reservations recommended. Located at the Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com.. KONA TAP ROOM This new island-style beer pub offers 16 craft and domestic beers on tap, including Kona Brewing Company favorites and seasonal options, along with creative “Surftinis & Beertails” like the Paddleboard Mojito, which combines Longboard Island Lager with Bacardi, house-made specialty mix, and mint for a Hawaiian spin on the classic cocktail. A locallysourced, beer-inspired menu includes dishes like Keahole lobster mac n’ cheese, Kona poke, pulled short rib sliders topped with fried quail eggs, sweet and spicy chili-nori tater tots and Kalua pork paninis. Open daily from 11am to midnight with live entertainment from 8pm to 11pm (hours may change seasonally). Located at Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com. 72

MANTA & PAVILION WINE BAR Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar is pioneering Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring ingredients grown and raised within a 15-mile radius especially for Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. Complementing the cuisine is a state-of-the-art Enomatic wine system serving outstanding wines by the glass, many found nowhere else in the state. For the ultimate food and wine experience, join our monthly Wine Dinners. You’ll enjoy outstanding vintages paired with exquisite cuisine, and meet distinguished guests from the world of winemaking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. For reservations call (808) 882-5810. MERIDIA The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort’s new signature dining experience introduces an innovative menu inspired by the Mediterranean and infused with our island’s bounty. The fresh seasonal menu is complemented by al fresco seating, a charcuterie and crudo bar, and house made artisanal bread nook. With the use of the resort’s local herb garden and citrus, Meridia also highlights signature brand cocktails and mocktails, ensuring every handcrafted recipe is expertly mixed, shaken or stirred. Expand your culinary confides at Meridia, framed by sweeping ocean views accompanied by crafted cocktails, fine wines and attentive service. Located in The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort. NORIO’S SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT Featuring authentic, traditional Japanese cuisine and stellar sushi. The sushi chefs bring a level of experience and quality to the Big Island normally associated with the better restaurants in Tokyo. The 15-seat custom sushi bar provides an ‘up close and personal’ culinary experience. The menu reflects a reverence for traditional Japanese delicacies, especially the exceptionally fresh seafood that he hand-selects daily. Open Thursday through Monday 5:30 p.m.-9:00 p.m. Located at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 885-2000. NUMBER 3 Thirsty golfers seeking a mid-round oasis, will love the tasteful new look and tasty menus of our new golf clubhouse restaurant, “Number 3” - almost good enough to guarantee a lower score on the back nine. Share a gourmet pizza in a relaxed, casual atmosphere, along with a cold one from the tap, signature Mauna Kea cocktails or frosty fruit smoothie. Located at the Mauna Kea Golf Course. For reservations call (808) 882-5810.

PELE'S WOK BISTRO & BAR A Chinese-inspired restaurant that provides great food in a fun & upbeat environment. The Chef is committed to supporting local farms whenever possible, and pairs the finest Chinese products along with seafood, produce and meats from boutique farms. Sourcing “farm-fresh” products such as Puna chicken, local grass-fed beef, Kona shrimp, freshly made tofu & noodles, Big island honey, and Kona Deep Sea Salt to name a few, is a standard practice. Service is friendly and engaging and the ambiance is upbeat & high energy. Approachable pricing along with great quality food and an innovative wine & beverage program await at Pele’s Wok Bistro & Bar. Located in the Shops at Mauna Lani. Take-out available with curbside parking. Reservations not required. Open 4pm-10pm daily. Visit peleswok. com or call (808) 315-8811 for more information. PUEO'S OSTERIA Pueo’s Osteria is an inviting, Italian-inspired restaurant that provides great food in a fun environment. Chef James Babian focuses on the finest Italian products paired with seafood, produce and meats from boutique farms (sourced locally whenever possible), including “farm-fresh” products from local farmers’ markets. Engaging service, approachable pricing, great flavors and food await at Pueo’s Osteria – Food, Wine & Fun … “where the night owls meet.” Happy hour daily from 4pm until 6pm, with dinner served nightly from 5:30pm, and a bar menu offered until midnight. Smart casual attire. Located in Waikoloa Highlands Shopping Center in Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 339-7566 for reservations or visit PueosOsteria.com. QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE ‘ONO FOOD COURT Food Network Star’s season eight finalist, Philip “Ippy” Aiona introduces “Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ,” to the Queens’ Marketplace Food Court, presenting his special twist on the iconic Hawaiian plate lunch. Across the way, look for Lemongrass Express, serving Chef TK’s fresh Asian-fusion cuisine, locally sourced and full of flavor. Family favorites Hawaiian Fish N Chips, Dairy Queen/Orange Julius, Paradise Pizza & Grill and Subway Sandwiches and Salads make sure there is something for everyone in your ‘ohana! For more information, visit queensmarketplace.net.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


KEAUHOU SHOPPING CENTER 78-6831 Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona tropicstaphousekona.com 808-498-4507

WAIKOLOA BEACH RESORT 69-1022 Keana Place, Waikoloa Across from the Hilton Waikoloa tropicsalehouse.com 808-886-4287

Join us for local craft beers, fresh foods, and superb hospitality! Live sports on 12 big screen TVs.

Happy Hour 2-5 PM EVERYDAY

A contemporary , fresh island Mexican grill featuring signature islandstyle burritos, loaded rice bowls, local farm salads, and fresh soft tacos!

Try our new menu! WAIKOLOA BEACH RESORT Queens' MarketPlace - Food Court bigislandburritos.com 808-339-7993 |


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BIG ISLAND

Kawaihae

Seafood Bar & Grill FRESH LOCAL FISH DAILY FRESH FISH BURGERS CLAMS STEAKS PIZZAS SALADS Daily 11am - 10pm 5-6:30 Early Bird FRESH FISH Dinner Kiawe Smoked Prime Rib ~ Tuesday Nights Best Kawaihae Restaurant Trip Advisor Best Happy Hour 3-6pm West Hawaii Today Best Seafood West Hawaii Today

808-880-9393 Air-Conditioned 61-3642 Kawaihae Road

www.seafoodbarandgrill.com ROY'S WAIKOLOA Surrounded by the historic King’s Trail featuring petroglyphs and lava fields, Roy’s Waikoloa offers an exclusive dining experience with exceptional food and outstanding service. Located in the King’s Shops, Roy’s Waikoloa opened 17 years ago among luxury resorts, residences and boutique shops. Dine with us and enjoy the bounty of Hawai‘i Island with the freshest local ingredients, the creative talents of our chefs and a grand view overlooking the Kings’ Course fairway and lake. Call (808) 886-4321 or visit royshawaii. com for reservations. SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL Savor the true flavors of Hawai‘i and visit Seafood Bar & Grill in the historic harbor town of Kawaihae on the Kohala Coast. Since 2002, we’ve been serving the freshest local seafood in a casual and fun atmosphere where you can sit comfortably, inside or out. Try one of our signature dishes like the Seafood Crusted Fresh Catch, Ginger Steamed Clams or our famous Fried Rice. We promise food that is both delectable and reasonably priced. You can also slide up to our beautiful 70-foot Mango wood bar and enjoy one of the island’s finest Happy Hours with well drinks, mai tais, import beers, drafts, margaritas, house wines, and more. Embracing the true “aloha spirit,” join us for a delicious dining experience you won’t forget. Call (808) 880-9393 or visit seafoodbargrill.com. 74

TROPICS ALE HOUSE Tropics Tap House & Ale House are “Fresh Kitchen” contemporary restaurants, craft beer bar and sports lounge concepts. The “Fresh Kitchen” movement has been inspired by a large consumer interest in local, sustainable, and in some cases, organic foods that are fused together to create amazing, fresh menu items. In addition to the food, the bar and beverage service is aimed towards craft beers that are unique and seasonal, craft cocktails (using only premium liquors and garnishes), and precisely selected wines that complement our fresh food. Tropics features a “Contemporary American Grill” menu with inspiration from the wonderful local ingredients on the island. We serve plates in smaller and larger portions, ranging between $7-$17, and daily specials that vary in portion and price. Come in for Happy Hour daily. Visit us in Waikoloa Beach Resort, across from the Hilton Waikoloa, and in the Keauhou Shopping Center. Call (808) 886-4287 or visit tropicsalehouse.com for more information. ‘ULU OCEAN GRILL + SUSHI LOUNGE Showcasing a stylish blend of Hawaiian architecture and modern flair - a fun, lively, informal setting where guests are inspired, surprised and delighted by Hawai‘i’s natural beauty and the flavors of the Pacific. Casual, friendly and knowledgeable servers guide guests through a social dining experience, highlighting

an innovative ocean-to-table menu with playful tableside presentation. Cuisine is prepared oven roasted, flame grilled and wok fired, and signature dishes include: Oven Roasted Whole Fish, Lobster Wonton Soup, Table-side Ahi Poke and Lilikoi Malasadas. The modern sushi lounge and 10-seat ocean view bar feature the Island’s freshest sushi, as well as craft cocktails, sake and Japanese beers. After-dinner drinks are enjoyed in a social setting around the fire pit on the beachside terrace. For reservations call (808) 325-8000. KONA ISLAND BREEZE LŪ‘AU This award winning lü‘au is held on the historic grounds of King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Savor the delicious feast as you revel in the colorful costumes and dances from Polynesia. Highlights include the Royal Court arrival, imu (underground oven) ceremony, arts & crafts, and a spectacular Polynesian show with the Samoan fireknife dance finale. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit islandbreezeluau.com. KEAUHOU-KONA HALEO LŪ‘AU Held under the starry skies and hala trees on the shores of Keauhou Bay, Haleo – the Voice of Life is Hawai‘i’s newest lü‘au. From the birth of Hawai‘i’s royalty to the surfing stories of He‘eia Bay, the dancers of Island Breeze take you on a colorful and entertaining journey through a special time in Hawai‘i’s history. Dine on a lavish buffet in a stunning oceanfront location where manta rays gather, whales breach, sunsets are stunning, and the sights and sounds of Polynesia all combine to create a special evening in paradise. Monday evenings at Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit haleoluau.com. RAYS ON THE BAY Situated on dramatic lava rocks iconic of the Kona Coast, Rays on the Bay features sustainable Big Island-inspired cuisine from farm to plate and hook to cook. Enjoy rich Island flavors like Kona Coffee, sea salt, lilikoi (passion fruit) and fresh fish, paired with volcanic wines and local spirits. Take in a crimson Keauhou sunset while you dine on coastal inspired entrees with gorgeous views of Keauhou Bay. After sunset, enjoy a beverage as you view Keauhou’s giant resident manta rays – gracefully swimming along the coast. Located at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., bar & patio open 5:30 to 11 p.m. Call (808) 930-4949. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


Chinese Cuisine FARM TO TABLE

Happy Hour LUCKY 8 DAILY FROM 4-5PM

ALWAYS FRESH

Locally Sourced INDOOR & OUTDOOR SEATING

Air-Conditioned

No Reservations Required Take-Out with 10-min Curbside Parking PelesWok.com | 808-315-8811 | Open 4pm-10pm daily Located at The Shops at Mauna Lani

~Best 18th restaurant in the country | Yelp Gallery ~Certificate Of Excellence 2016 | Trip Advisor ~2018 Hale ‘Aina Award | Honolulu Magazine

“Come as friends and leave as family” Open daily 5 - 9pm for dinner Early Owl happy hour daily 5 - 6pm Night Owl happy hour daily 9:30pm to midnight AIR-CONDITIONED Pueo’s Osteria is located within Waikoloa Village Highlands Center in Waikoloa Village Reservations are highly recommended. Call (808)-339-7566


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AMERICAN WINES WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

Over the past 300 years, America’s love affair with wine has matured, moving wine from the fringes of society to the center of the table. This once European area of expertise has grown to become a multi-billion dollar industry that combines technological enhancements embraced by Americans blended with Old World sensibilities and techniques inherited from overseas.

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California leads the American wine industry producing nearly 90% of the nation’s wine with nearly 250 million cases annually. Yet, despite its current success, California’s wine roots have a far humbler beginning, which dates to the 1800s when Franciscan missions planted grapes to make sacramental wine. The Gold Rush brought an influx of immigrants to the state that brought their winemaking techniques with them, but wine production came to a screeching halt during the 1920s when Prohibition banned the manufacturing, sale, and transportation of alcoholic beverages. Despite Prohibition’s repeal in 1933, it took decades for the knowledge and skills lost to be regained and implemented, leading to Americans’ love of sweeter, cheaper “jug wines” in the interim. And California wines were unable to garner international respect until the Judgement of Paris in 1976 when a 1973 Chateau Montelena, a California Chardonnay, and a 1973 Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon beat eight French wines in a blind taste competition, breaking the myth that great wines were only made in France. Today, there are over 4,000 wineries in the state and over 100 varietals in play, yet Cabernet Sauvignon has achieved the reputation as one of the dominant varietals of California. As with many New World wines, California Cabernet Sauvignon tends to be a robust, full-bodied, fruit-forward wine with a lush, sensuous quality stemming from the long, sunny days, which allow the grapes to achieve full maturation. An epitome of California Cabernet Sauvignon is the 2012 Selene “Dead Fred Vineyard” ($50 per bottle; winecountryconnection.net), which offers a palate dripping with blueberry syrup and black currants mingled with seductive notes of brown sugar. The heft of this wine calls for a dish bearing equal power such as a beef stir-fry that begins with succulent sirloin with deep flavors that will be complemented by the dark fruits of this wine. The blend of oyster sauce, minced garlic, and freshly cut scallions can overpower most wines, but hints of smoky coffee and earthy molasses in this bottling will maintain its strength despite the dish’s intense flavors, creating a dynamic of concentrated balance. Moving north of California, Oregon boasts a much smaller holding of vineyard acreage yet still are in the Top 5 states in terms of wine production with over 700 wineries, which are mostly boutique or family-owned. Pinot Noir, the thin-skinned red grape from Burgundy, is a very delicate grape that grows exceptionally well in Oregon’s colder regions. The notoriously temperamental grape has prospered and become one of the most prominent varietals in the state. In Willamette Valley, an American Viticultural myhawaiitraveler.com

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Area (AVA) running from the Columbia River to the city of Eugene, the wet winters and dry summers provide the perfect growing conditions for this grape known for its difficulty to cultivate. When young, Oregon Pinot Noir bears a flavor profile of cherries, raspberries, and strawberries; yet, with age, this wine develops further fruit complexity and earthiness. The 2017 Willamette Valley Vineyards Whole Cluster Pinot Noir ($21.99 per bottle; wine.com) offers the fruit-forward characteristics of many New World wines blended with Old World expression of terroir. Ruby red in color, this divine wine pairs wonderfully with a dish of tender short ribs marinated in a teriyaki sauce (Japanese cooking sauce blending soy sauce, sugar, and sweet cooking wine). The melt-in-your-mouth beef would be overpowered by a wine rich in tannins making this Pinot Noir the perfect match in body without being slack brought out by the vein of acidity innate in the grape. The sweetness of the teriyaki marinade plays with the sweet flavors of strawberry purée and the refreshing acidity in this wine, while the saltiness of the marinade is balanced by the bright youth in the flavors of this bottling. Traveling further north, Washington has proven to be another stronghold in the world of American wine whose long hours of sunlight and consistent temperatures allow the grapes to truly settle into their surroundings. The defining geographical feature of Washington State is the Cascade Mountain Range, which provides protection for the vineyards in the east from weather fronts and precipitation from the west. While almost 70 varietals are grown in Washington, a standout over the past years has been wine created from the delicate, yet commanding, Riesling grape. Famous throughout the world, Riesling’s crisp profile of white fruits and flowers yields a wine truly expressive of the place it is grown in. The 2017 Columbia Valley Dry Riesling ($10 per bottle; ste-michelle.com) is a tremendous steal created by the oldest winery in the state, Chateau Ste. Michelle. Lime rind, white peaches, and crisp green apple radiate from this wine, which begs to be paired with a dish like scallops sautéed in herbed brown butter. The minerality of the wine parallels the sea-like minerality of the scallops while the bright acidity and fresh fruit flavors cuts the brown butter to keep the palate from fatiguing. From robust bottles of Cabernets from California to the tantalizing glasses of Riesling from Washington State, the wines of the West Coast have proven year after year to be as nuanced and as powerful as their European counterparts and definite forces to be reckoned with. 78

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Discover Serene Dining with a View The Westin Hapuna Beach Resort’s new signature dining experience introduces an innovative menu inspired by the Mediterranean and infused with our island’s bounty. Meridia’s fresh seasonal menu is complemented by al fresco seating, a charcuterie and crudo bar, and house-made artisanal bread nook. Expand your culinary confines at Meridia, framed by sweeping ocean views accompanied by crafted cocktails, fine wines and attentive service.

MERIDIA Open Daily: Dinner 5:30PM - 9:00PM

To make a reservation, call 808.880.1111 or visit westinhapunabeach.com/dining.

©2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Westin and their logos are the myhawaiitraveler.com

trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit westinhapunabeach.com

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CELEBRATE

good times! TOAST TO PAU HANA WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

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Pau hana is the time at the end of the day meant to be celebrated with delicious püpü (appetizers) and drinks to cheers the beauty of this palm tree paradise while enjoying the lingering remnants of daylight till the sun sets and paints the sky with gorgeous pastels. Here, we share some of our favorite spots to chillax with a drink in our hand. —>

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BEACH TREE BAR & LOUNGE AT FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI Steps away from the sand with panoramic ocean views, you can’t help but relax and relish the special mana (divine power) that seems tangible as soon as you take your seat at Beach Tree. This is the kind of place that becomes your go-to where you can expect friendly staff, great service and food each and every time—plus, the scenery is truly beautiful. You will want to have a drink in your hand to toast the surreal sunsets. Beach Tree has a nice selection of wines and local beers as well as chef-inspired cocktails. Choose from an array of bespoke libations with housemade mixers made with the freshest ingredients. The Nahi Wai begins with a base of Hawaiian chili pepper infused Casamigos Tequila to which housemade ginger sour is added and finished with a splash of fresh watermelon juice that balances the heat in this drink. And for something light and fizzy to cheers the day with, their Paradise Spritz is a perfect pick. It begins with a blend of Prosecco and Pinot Grigio creating the foundation for Campari and lilikoÿi (passion fruit) syrup, which is blended before garnishing with a candied hibiscus flower. When it comes to ordering food, you can’t go wrong with their Mahi Tacos, featuring a mango salsa sprinkled with cheddar cheese and finely shredded green cabbage that adds a refreshing crunch. For those with a sizable hunger, the Grass-Fed ‘BI’ Burger hits the spot with melted aged cheddar and perfectly cooked local beef served atop a brioche bun complemented with your choice of really good onion rings or french fries. And if you are in the mood for lighter fare, the Tsunami Poke Bowl with delectable crab, fresh daily catch, avocado, cucumber, sriracha, furikake, mayo and lime hits the spot. No matter what you choose to order, you will enjoy your time at this exceptional spot. Beach Tree Bar & Lounge is located at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai at historic Kaÿüpülehu. Complimentary valet parking for diners. Open daily from 11am to 10pm. Call (808) 325-8000 or visit www.fourseasons.com/hualalai for more information.

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PHOTO COURTESY: (THIS PAGE/ALL) THEORY; (OPP. LT/OPENING SPREAD) FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI; (OPP. RT) CAPTURE HAWAII

SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL The fun tiki atmosphere at Seafood Bar & Grill beckons guests to wind down while enjoying their favorite foods with local flair. With one of the best happy hour specials on the island, this tucked away gem in Kawaihae has been a longtime favorite among residents with most being regulars since their opening way back when. Chef Aaron Barfield and his well-trained kitchen staff consistently serve up good food no matter what time of day you decide to cruise in. Seafood Bar is famous for their Tuesday night kiawe-smoked prime rib, daily specials and fresh catch. During happy hour you can enjoy regular-sized portions of popular appetizers at reduced prices like their Pupu Calamari steak, which is deep-fried and crusted in furikake (Japanese seaweed seasoning) and served with housemade wasabi aioli. Other popular püpü options are Seafood Quesadilla with fresh ÿahi (yellowfin tuna) and shrimp served alongside a scoop of freshly made guacamole, classic Spicy Chicken Wings and Coconut Shrimp fried to a golden crisp served alongside a yummy li hing mui (salty dried plum) piña colada dipping sauce. When you’re ready for a brew, their newly installed, state-of-the-art draft beer system offers a selection of 10 local beers all served ice cold. Happy Hour drink specials are also offered including $5 glass wines, $4 well drinks, and $6 Mai Tais, which are known to be some of the best on the island. The Seafood Bar also offers their Aloha Dinner Hour from 5pm to 6:30pm when guests can enjoy a choice of fresh fish served with Chef Aaron’s sauce of the day and a side of Kohala mixed greens salad for only $21.95. With its welcoming vibe where no one is a stranger, don’t be surprised if you linger a little longer than you intended. Once you experience this Kawaihae institution, you will want to become a regular, too. Seafood Bar & Grill is located at 61-3642 Kawaihae Road. Open daily from 11am to 10pm; Happy Hour daily from 3pm to 6pm; and 9:30pm to closing. Aloha Hour from 5pm to 6:30pm. Call (808) 880-9393 or visit www. seafoodbarandgrill.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

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COPPER BAR AT MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL A combination of dazzling views and an eclectic menu makes Copper Bar one of the coolest places on the island to spend an evening. From their Copper Fries, which are tossed in truffle oil and sprinkled with parmesan cheese, to their selection of made-to-order sushi that features the freshest seafood caught daily, the chefs at Copper Bar can keep palates entertained while mixologists blend handcrafted drinks all night long. As is Mauna Kea’s longstanding tradition, there is nightly music with hula from 5:30pm to 8:30pm to further enhance your experience. For guests looking for something more substantial to share, their brick oven flatbreads always impress like their Hämäkua Mushroom pizza that begins with truffle oil, a three cheese blend, and white sauce spread atop their housemade dough before being topped generously with locally grown Hämäkua mushrooms or go for the Roasted Pineapple with housemade sausage. For drinks, the Mauna Kea Barrel Bonfire is a definite must-try beginning with their Mauna Kea single barrel selection of Knob Creek Rye bourbon to which fresh pineapple juice and locally sourced honey is added and rounded out with a smoky finish. For those opting for a non-alcoholic drink, the Strawberry Basil Mule is the perfect refresher after a hot day. This mocktail begins with spicy housemade ginger beer finished with fresh strawberries picked from their garden and torn pieces of aromatic basil. Pau Maui Vodka is added for a delightful alcoholic version. Copper Bar is located at the iconic Mauna Kea Beach Hotel on the Kohala Coast. Cocktails served from 11am to 11pm; lunch from 11:30am to 5pm, dinner from 5pm to 9:30pm (reservations recommended). Complimentary valet parking for diners. Call (808) 882-5707 or visit www.maunakeabeachhotel.com. 84

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TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT & BAR

PHOTO COURTESY: (THIS PAGE/ALL) TOMMY BAHAMA; (OPPOTIES/ALL) MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL

Epitomizing the island lifestyle, Tommy Bahama is the ideal bar and restaurant for delicious food and memorable cocktails. You can’t help but feel like you are living the beach lover’s dream with tropical breezes in the open space, nearby swaying palms and the undeniable relaxed vibe. Any time is a good time at Tommy Bahama’s, but the best time is during their Island Time Happy Hour, which is from 4pm to 6pm, when select beers, wine, libations, and small plates are offered at a special price. The Dark & Stormy, a combination of dark rum and spicy ginger beer, is a favorite to enjoy that provides just the right amount of fizz to offset the spicy rum while others might enjoy a classic Scratch Lemon Drop martini for just the right amount of sweet at the end of a day. The püpü menu will tempt you to order one of everything especially at the discounted price including their Macadamia Crusted Goat Cheese served with mango salsa, sweet soy sauce, and flatbread as well as their World Famous Coconut Shrimp with a side of housemade papaya-coconut chutney. Toast the lovely Hawaiian sunsets with one of their signature cocktails like Bahia Sangria made with brandy, red wine, pomegranate, green apples and citrus or go for something that screams vacation in a glass like the yummy Coconut Cloud or Key Lime Martini. Whether unwinding after a day at work or capping off time spent at the beach, channel your inner Tommy Bahama and celebrate life in paradise with good food and drink completely chillaxed. Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar is located at The Shops at Mauna Lani. Open daily from 11:30am to 9pm with Island Time Happy Hour from 4pm to 6pm. Call (808) 881-8686 for reservations or visit www. tommybahama.com.

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Unlike most restaurants here, Rays on the Bay offers a late-night happy hour that runs from 9pm to 10pm and coincides with the best time of day to view the manta rays which, when the surf isn’t large, convene naturally in the area. Guests wanting to relax with a post-dinner drink (or two) can enjoy discounted draft beers or glasses of wine. And for libation enthusiasts, Island Thyme is just the right balance of flavor and fizz that pleases the palate with each sip. Beginning with aromatic gin, their lime and thyme syrup is added before being topped off with soda water and garnished with cucumber slices. Late-night snacks such as the Poke Stack is a favorite dish to share. Freshly caught ÿahi is cubed before being tossed with smashed avocado and wasabi and served on crispy won ton chips. Vegetarian dishes are also available like their Grilled Veggie Kabobs that are finished with a drizzle of balsamic oil and their housemade basil infused oil. With unobstructed ocean views, you will want to get here early enough to catch the sun setting in the cerulean Pacific. If you are lucky enough, you may see the elusive green flash before you see the manta rays swimming gracefully making it a magical night to remember. Rays on the Bay is located at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay. Dinner nightly from 5:30pm to 9pm; bar service from 5:30pm to 10:30pm; happy hour & late night menu from 9pm to 10pm. Complimentary valet parking for diners. Call (808) 930-4900 or visit www. raysonthebaykona.com.

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PHOTO COURTESY: (THIS PAGE/ALL) SHERATON KONA RESORT; (OPPOTIES/ALL) FAIRMONT ORCHID

RAYS ON THE BAY AT SHERATON KONA RESORT & SPA AT KEAUHOU BAY


HALE KAI RESTAURANT AT THE FAIRMONT ORCHID With postcard-perfect views, Hale Kai is a poolside restaurant where you can kick off your shoes and put your toes in the sand. Different than most happy hour offerings, Hale Kai includes the entire family with their special Ohana Hour from 4pm to 5pm daily. Guests enjoy 25% off appetizers and $5 smoothies, $5 Kona Brewing Co. draft beers, and $10 Mai Tais. Keiki (children) enjoy additional perks of free meals off the Keiki Menu for children 5 years and under while children 6 to 12 years of age get 50% off their Keiki Menu meal with accompanying adult order. Choose from an enticing array of püpü ranging from their ÿAhi Avocado Poke served with fresh sweet potato chips and a sriracha aioli or their gently fried Crab Cake that begins with huge lumps of tender crab meat and served garnished with a Waimea tomato relish, garlic aioli, and tobiko (flying fish roe) to chicken wings with kimchee and sticky sesame garlic glaze. Cocktails are also a special attraction at Hale Kai where mixologists offer local twists on classic cocktails like their Lilikoÿi Margarita that begins with Sauza Blue Silver tequila and freshly squeezed lime juice. Passion fruit purée is added and the tangy concoction is poured into a glass rimmed with li hing mui powder. Add some fun games and plenty of opportunities to see the beloved honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) sunning nearby means a good time is all but guaranteed for the whole family. Hale Kai Restaurant is located at The Fairmont Orchid in Mauna Lani Resort. Open daily from 10am to 10pm, Ohana Hour from 4pm to 5pm. Call (808) 885-2000 or visit www.fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii. myhawaiitraveler.com

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THE

HOT SPOT

PELE'S WOK BISTRO & BAR

Most people on the mainland, or even Honolulu residents, are lucky enough to have their go-to neighborhood Chinese restaurant in their iPhone’s Favorites contact list for a night in of Netfilx and good takeout. This was not an option for the folks of South Kohala though it was much desired and left us clamoring for the distinct Asian flavors. Thankfully, co-owner Chef James Babian of Pueo’s Osteria and Executive Chef Aaron Murai stepped in to fill this huge void in the Big Island dining scene with the opening of Pele’s Wok Bistro & Bar. Not only did they deliver on providing the locals and visitors alike with a takeout option, but created an inviting space to enjoy elevated Chinese cuisine with locally sourced, high quality ingredients with an impressive offering of appetizers, fried rice, noodles, soups and main dishes perfect for sharing family style. This is the Chinese food we have been craving. Who is envious now? I dined at Pele’s Wok before I had a chance to talk story with the chefs behind the dishes, but my own experience lived up to the story they shared about their passion for Chinese cuisine, as well as Chef James’s Regional, Seasonal, Artisanal philosophy, sourcing locally as 88

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN IMAGES CAPTURE HAWAI‘I

often as possible while also using the finest ingredients to create tasty, memorable meals. This combination of thinking leads to some really surprising, mouthwatering dishes at unexpectedly affordable prices you and your dining mates will be sure to remark on throughout the meal. But it was the story about how the restaurant got off the ground that was really striking. Chef James and Chef Aaron worked together at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, with Chef James as the executive chef. When Chef James decided to open his own restaurant, Chef Aaron followed, telling him that he didn’t work for the company—he worked for his chef. After working at Pueo’s Osteria together for a few years, Chef James remarked on the lack of good Chinese food in the Waikoloa area. That’s when Chef Aaron shared that though his passion was cooking, his obsession was the Chinese cuisine he grew up eating and making with his family. Chef James promised that if Pueo’s was doing well after five years, he and his wife Christine Babian, the coowners of both Pueo’s Osteria and Pele’s Wok, would add a Chinese restaurant to their restaurant portfolio That day arrived in a serendipitous way. On a Thursday they made BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


PHOTO COURTESY: (ALL) NATALIA MASTRASCUSA/CAPTURE HAWAII

the 5-year mark; and the next day, Chef James received a call about a restaurant space opening in The Shops at Mauna Lani, wondering if they would be interested. Jumping at the chance, Pele’s Wok was born. The interior space reflects their homage to the Hawaiian fire goddess, Pele, with lava rocks on the walls, and bamboo borders adding to the natural feel, while diners can also choose to eat outdoors under the awning. And to make sure that the usage of one of Hawai‘i’s most revered goddess’ namesake was pono (proper), approval from cultural practitioners was granted, as well as ceremonial blessings in both Hawaiian and Chinese customs took place. Some standout dishes include the various dumplings that Chef Aaron and his team make by hand each day—always fresh and never frozen. Chef Aaron takes inspiration from the nearly 2,000 varieties of dumplings that the Chinese culture makes. “It’s very inspiring to learn something new and never do the same thing twice,” he says. The Chicken Pot Stickers, with fresh, local, hormone-free Puna chicken, local vegetables, and a tangy black vinegar, sweet soy sauce are delicate, yet delectable. The Shanghai Pork Dumplings with five-spice pork, crunchy water chestnuts, and bamboo shoots are so mouthwateringly good that you might have to resort to dueling with your fellow diners to get the last one. (It’s a good thing you can order more). The Won Ton soup was another big hit—again, those handmade dumplings, that delicate Puna chicken and yummy local veggies was something that my friends and I still talk about, so comforting, like a big bowl of Chinese chicken noodle soup. Pele’s Wok is planning on doing Dim Sum Sundays (yes, please!) in the near future, so those who can’t get enough delicious dumplings can satiate their craving. Other standout dishes include the Pork & Beans using ground pork in a flavorful sauce cooked alongside crunchy Waimea green beans. The fiery Szechuan Waimea Eggplant was a homerun at our table, as was Chef Aaron’s Lo Mein, with delicate noodles made on Oÿahu, stir-fried with locally grown, seasonal veggies and chunks of that amazingly juicy Puna chicken. Pele’s Wok also serves Kona Shrimp with Big Island bok choy and Chinese black bean sauce. A showstopper is the whole, fresh, locally caught fish prepared one of two ways—steamed or crispy—with an authentic, spicy bang bang sauce. Have a food allergy or need to make a change to a dish? Chef Aaron says they can accommodate almost any requests—since everything is made fresh and by hand, ingredients are easily left out or added in, and all you have to do is ask. “Ninety percent of our menu can be made gluten-free. We have a ‘secret menu’—since we make everything to order, we can accommodate dietary requests,” he says. The proof is in the pudding (or in this case dumplings). Chef Aaron tells me that he sees guests returning the next night after they first dine in, and sometimes ask to step behind the prep table to shake his hand for a great meal. He likes to look out into the dining room to see their reactions and takes real pride in knowing that his guests are enjoying his dishes. It is his pleasure to be able to combine both his passion and obsession into memorable meals. Pele’s Wok Bistro & Bar is located at 68-1330 Mauna Lani Drive #108 in The Shops at Mauna Lani. Open daily from 4pm to 10pm. Lucky 8 Happy Hour is from 4pm to 5pm daily with 8 dishes for $8 each. They are available for on and off premise catering, as well as for takeout. Reservations are not accepted. Visit peleswok.com or call (808) 315-8811 for more information. myhawaiitraveler.com

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ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE ISLE With most of the thirteen climate zones, the Big Island is considered by many as a minicontinent. Where else in the world can you snow-ski in the morning and sunbathe on nationally-ranked beaches in the afternoon? Hawai‘i Island boasts world-renowned golf, spas, dive and snorkel sites, the best hiking and camping, the world’s most active volcano, the clearest night skies for stargazing, and endless activities in which to experience it all. 90

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Explore marine mysteries AIR TOURS PARADISE HELICOPTERS

Explore paradise on the Hawai‘i helicopter adventure of a lifetime. Paradise Helicopters are the experts in offering an exciting, well-planned, and safe helicopter experience. See breathtaking waterfalls, active volcanoes, panoramic coastlines and wondrous mountain ranges on one of the best heli tours Hawai‘i has to offer. See nature in its most beautiful form. Experience it all from the comfort of our helicopters and the Big Island will reveal itself to you in a way never imagined. So ride along as our experienced guides show you the wonders of the islands, and happily answer any question you might have along the way. Visit paradisecopters.com or call (808) 969-7392.

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Experience the adventure of a lifetime. The Intensity of the volcanic landscape and hidden tropical valleys will surely take your breath away. Sunshine proudly celebrates over 25 years of operation with an excellent safety record. Recipient of the Helicopters Association International “Platinum Program of Safety” award and a member of (T.O.P.S.) Tour Operators Program of Safety. Depart from our exclusive Hapuna Heliport or Hilo airport. Call (808) 882-1223 or visit sunshinehelicopters.com.

EXPLORE HAWAII FOREST & TRAIL

Awarded 2006 Ecotour Operator of the Year, Hawaii Forest & Trail has over eight different Nature Adventure Tours which showcase the Big Island’s scenic diversity. Our Nature Adventure Tours feature the best tour locales, great customer service, relaxed easy walks and hikes led by professionally-trained Interpretive Guides. We’ll share with you the volcanoes, waterfalls, valleys, rainforests and summits, in addition to the life and legends of Hawaii. Frommer’s Guide to Hawai‘i says “... May very well be the highlight of your vacation.” For reservations, call (800) 464-1993 or online at hawaiiforest.com.

MAUNA KEA SUMMIT ADVENTURES

Mauna Kea Summit Adventures is the Original Sunset & Stargazing Tour. The ancient Hawaiians thought of the top of Mauna Kea as heaven, or at least where the Gods and Goddesses lived. As the pioneer guide service on Mauna Kea, we have over 35 years experience. Our professional guides are passionate, educational and fun. Beautiful, dramatic photo opportunities abound. Experience treasures of the night sky through our telescope. We provide a delicious hot supper served mid-mountain, hot drinks, arctic style parkas with hoods and convenient pick-up points in Kailua-Kona, Waikoloa & Hwy 190 and Hwy 200 junction. (808) 332-2366 or online at maunakea.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

70% of the earth’s surface is covered in water and remains relatively unexplored. Get a glimpse into a mysterious underwater world with Atlantis Submarines! atlantisadventures.com | ( 8 0 8 ) 3 2 7-1 4 4 1 | #atlantishawaii EX PLOR E OU R KON A

UMAUMA FALLS ZIPLINE AND RAPPEL EXPERIENCE

Create an unforgettable memory with your family and friends while on the Big Island of Hawaii. Breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean, beautiful waterfalls and lush rainforest of the Hamakua Coast await you. Zip on 9 thrilling ziplines designed for both beginners and experts, including our 2,060 ft. dual zipline and amazing 200 ft. suspension bridge. Swim & Kayak in the Umauma River or combine them for a Zip & Dip adventure you will never forget! Be sure to stop and enjoy our Visitors Center and Tropical Garden Walk and Umauma Falls viewing area. You will be talking about your Umauma Experience for years to come! Located on the beautiful Hamakua Coast in Hakalau at 31-313 Old Mamalahoa Hwy. Call (808) 930-9477 or visit umaumaexperience.com.

SNORKEL, SAIL & SUB ATLANTIS SUBMARINES

An unforgettable 45-minute journey aboard an Atlantis 48-passenger submarine, as featured in National Geographic television specials, where guests explore a 25-acre natural coral reef and its marine inhabitants. Allow Atlantis Submarines to show you the other 96% of Kona you can't see any other way. Treat yourself to Kona's most beautiful and captivating scenery, habitats, and isolated treasures. You'll descend 100 feet into another version of paradise -- one hidden even from the people of Hawaii for centuries. Atlantis Kona offers a journey aboard a 48-passenger submarine. Guests will discover an 18,000-year-old, 25-acre fringing coral reef, which boasts a vibrant ecosystem of coral formations and tropical fish. Tours provide narration in Japanese via headsets. For reservations call (808) 327-1441. 91


ADVENTURE BODY GLOVE CRUISES

All of our cruises are complimented by the first-class amenities on board our state-of-the-art, 65-foot catamaran. The Kanoa II is an award winning, multimillion dollar vessel designed with quality and comfort in mind. Our guests enjoy plenty of shade, cushioned seating, flat screen televisions, a full sound system for live entertainment, and our full service premium bar. The Kanoa II is equipped with three restrooms, two fresh water showers, a 20-foot water slide, a 15-foot high dive platform, two large double swim platforms, and floatation toys for everyone. Call (888) 253-0397 or visit bodyglovehawaii.com.

FAIR WIND CRUISES

Located in Keauhou-Kona on the Big Island of Hawai‘i, Fair Wind Cruises has been offering snorkel excursions since 1971. We offer two vessels with two very unique snorkel experiences. Our snorkel destination on Fair Wind II, historic Kealakekua Bay, is without question one of the most relaxing areas for snorkeling - maintaining clear visibility and very calm waters throughout the day. Our newest vessel, Hula Kai, has been designed and built to accommodate guests who seek the very best in luxury, comfort, and technology. Our Hula Kai cruise offers the advanced snorkeler a

way to explore some of Kona’s most unique and less traveled snorkel destinations along the spectacular Kona Coast shoreline. Call (808) 345-6213 or visit fairwind.com.

MAUNA LANI SEA ADVENTURES

Whatever your pleasure “Winona” offers regularly scheduled cruises and exclusive charters. Our Polynesian sailing catamaran has spacious deck and seating areas for sunning or just relaxing. Join us on our dive boats for a scuba diving adventure at one of our 30 dive sites, and experience the under world of tropical fish, beautiful coral reefs, caves, and arches. If diving is not your pleasure, try our snorkel sail on “Winona” where you can relax under the sun and enjoy great snorkeling along the Kohala coast. Maybe relaxing and watching a sunset Hawaiian style is more your pace. Then come sail with us along the Kohala coastline and take in the views of the island from afar and watch the sunset while you enjoy cocktails and püpü (appetizer). If you join us from December to April, you can watch the majestic humpback whales during their annual migration to the warm Hawaiian waters. Located at Mauna Lani Resort. Call (808) 885-7883 or visit maunalaniseaadventures.com.

Mauna Lani Sea Adventures

Book your adventure today!

(808) 885-7883

Come and experience the best Whale Watching, Snorkeling, Sunsets and Scuba Diving along the Kohala Coast!

68-1400 Mauna Lani Drive Kohala Coast, HI 96743 maunalaniseaadventures.com

Scuba • Snorkel Sail • Sunset Sail • Whale Watch • Beach Activities

SNORKEL BOB’S

Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & size-The SEAMO BETTA & LI’L MO BETTA are Rx receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver freshair on every breath. Sumo Mask & Bigfoot fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie for the week (Reg. $29). Located in Kona off Ali’i Drive behind Huggo’s (808) 329-0770 or at The Shops at Mauna Lani on the Kohala Coast (808) 885-9499. All Islands 8-5 every day. Online at snorkelbob.com.

ZIPLINE KOHALA ZIPLINE

Join us on a Big Island zipline tour like no other. The Kohala Zipline Kohala Canopy Tour traverses a forested, stream-rich land on the northern tip of the Big Island of Hawai‘i, an area known since ancient times as Halawa. With soaring platforms built into majestic trees, accentuated by arching suspension bridges and progressively longer zip lines, our course promises the best of Hawaii zipline adventure tours, serene and thrilling at once. Whether you are a zipline enthusiast or a first-time outdoor adventure seeker, you’ll find in the Kohala Canopy Tour an unforgettable experience. Call (808) 331-3620 or visit kohalazipline.com.

ATTRACTIONS KONA-KOHALA AHU‘ENA HEIAU

A thatched shrine built and restored on an artificial island in Kamakahonu (Eye of the Turtle) is guarded by wooden images (ki‘i). King Kamehameha I settled here in 1812 and maintained his royal residence until his death in 1819. King Kamehameha dedicated Ahu‘ena Heiau, a temple of prosperity, to Lono, god of fertility. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II dined with the great queens Keopuolani and Ka‘ahumanu breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Located near Kailua Pier 75-5660 Palani Rd. Free. Call (808) 329-2911.

HULIHE‘E PALACE

Two-story Victorian estate made of lava, koa wood and coral mortar was commissioned by Hawai‘i’s second governor John Adams Kuakini and built in 1838. The palace served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian monarchs until 1914. King Kaläkaua used the mansion in the 1880s as his summer palace. Today it houses a collection of royal Hawaiian relics, beautiful furniture and rare collections. Located 75-5718 Ali‘i Drive. Open weekdays 9-4, weekends 10-4. Admission is $5. Call (808) 329-1877 or visithuliheepalace.org.

PU‘UHONUA O HŌNAUNAU

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park served as a safe haven in times of war and was also a place of cleansing for kapu breakers. Wooden images of Hawaiian native gods (ki‘i), temples and heiau on the sacred grounds of the beautiful and serene beachfront sanctuary make this a must-see historical park. Because ancient Hawaiians believed that if the spirit was not fed then it would drift away, kähuna and others left food offerings in the temple. Today with the revival of Hawaiian customs, you may see offerings of food on the tower (lele) at Hale O Keawe. Picnic tables, fascinating tidepools, sandy sunbathing area and a popular snorkel spot, Two-step, are also nearby. Four miles south of Kealakekua Bay on Rte 160. Open daily 7am to sunset. Admission is $3-$5. Call (808) 328-2288.

LAPAKAHI STATE HISTORICAL PARK

Travel back in time and walk the self-guided tour through the ruins of an ancient fishing village. Displays show early Hawaiian life of fishing, salt gathering, legends games and shelter. Located off Route 270. Open daily 8-4. Free. (808) 882-6207.

PUAKŌ PETROGLYPHS FIELD

View hundreds of ancient Hawaiian art form with warriors, surfers, outriggers and numerous themes. Nearby is Malama Petroglyph Trail. Located off the trail of Mauna Lani Resort off North Kaniku Dr.

PU‘UKOHOLĀ HEIAU

Built by King Kamehameha to honor his family war god, Kü and to fulfill the prophecy of uniting the Hawaiian Islands. Located off Hwy 270 in Kawaihae. Open daily 7:30-4. Free. Call (808) 882-7218.

EAST HAWAI‘I ‘AKAKA FALLS STATE PARK

Includes ‘Akaka Falls, a 442-ft. waterfall that flows spectacularly over a deep gorge into a pool. Kahüna Falls is visible from the loop trail through the park. Located four miles inland north of Hilo, off Hwy 19. Open daily 7-7. Free. (808) 974-6200. myhawaiitraveler.com

BANYAN DRIVE

Celebrities planted banyan trees along this drive beginning in 1933 when hotels were just being built. Famous people include Babe Ruth, Cecil B. DeMille, President Nixon, President Roosevelt and King George V. Located on Banyan Drive in Hilo.

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

It is best to see the spectacular show of red-hot lava flowing into the sea close to sunset off Chain of Craters Road. Also, you can drive the 11-mile Crater Rim Drive past lava fields, steaming craters and forests. Walk through Thurston Lava Tube, a natural tunnel formed when the top and sides of a lava flow hardened and the lava inside drained away. Bring water, flashlight and a sweater. Stop by the visitor’s center for more information and safety. Call (808) 985-6000.

accounts from the tsunami survivors. Located at 130 Kamehameha Ave, Hilo. Open Mon-Sat 9-4. Call (808)935-0926.

PANA‘EWA RAINFOREST ZOO

This is the only natural tropical rainforest zoo in the U.S. This 12-acre zoo is home to more than 80 animal species including Namaste’, a white Bengal Tiger. You are invited to picnic in the shade of over 100 varieties of Palm and stroll with Peacocks in the extensive collection of Orchids, Clumping Bamboos and Tropical Rhododendrons. Petting Zoo is open every Saturday 1:30-2:30 p.m. Tiger feeding is 3:30 daily. Open daily 9-4 p.m. except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free. Located on Mamaki St. off Hwy 11. Call (808)9599233.

RAINBOW FALLS

HILO FARMERS MARKET

The best time to catch a rainbow in the mist of these falls is morning. The falls plummet into Wailuku River gorge. Check out Boiling Pots created by the powerful water over ancient lava beds. Located off Route 200, up Waiänuenue Ave.

MOKUPAPAPA: DISCOVERY CENTER

Valley of the Kings can also be considered earth’s Garden of Eden with breathtaking vistas bounded by 2,000 feet cliffs, spectacular Hi‘ilawe Falls plummets 1,200 feet from Kohala Mountain to the bottom of the valley, fruit trees, taro fields, streams and a crescent black sand beach popular with surfers. The steep and narrow road down the valley requires a four-wheel drive. The one-mile hike can be difficult especially on the climb back to civilization. Commercial transportation permits are limited to four outfits to maintain the pristine environment of one of the state’s most isolated places. Tours are unavailable on Sundays. Waipi‘o Valley Lookout offers breathtaking views without breaking a sweat. Located off Hwy 240 ~8 miles northwest of Honoka‘a.

One of the state’s best farmers markets with more than 120 vendors selling flowers, fresh produce and baked goods. Located on the corner of Kamehameha Ave. and Mamo St. Open Wed. and Sat. from Sunrise to 4 p.m. This is an educational center on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Coral Reef Ecosystem Reserve, the largest conservation area in the United States. Funded by NOAA, the center has numerous interactive displays, a 2,500-gallon saltwater aquarium and vibrant pictures and video footage of the wildlife in the reserve. Located at 308 Kamehameha Ave. in Downtown Hilo. Open to the public Tuesday-Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed on all Federal Holidays. Free Admission! Call (808)933-8195 or visit hawaiireef.gov.noaa/center.

PACIFIC TSUNAMI MUSEUM

Learn about the destructive tsunamis and the details of the 1946 and 1960 that devastated Hilo through photographs, interactive displays and personal

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SADDLE UP A THERAPEUTIC RIDE ON THE BIG ISLAND WORDS ANDY BETH MILLER

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trong, yet gentle. Horses have long been an enigmatic infatuation of the human race. Far from seeing these mysterious creatures as mere beasts of burden, the people of Hawaiÿi have embraced equines as a cohort of sorts, with which we labor alongside, learn from, and seek to symbiotically thrive with in this life. Such a synergistic perception of horses is not a new phenomenon, especially in regards to Hawai‘i’s rich history, which is marked by the many hooves that have helped to pave the Rainbow State’s road to abundance. It all started when Westerners began arriving to the islands via ships; and Captain George Vancouver brought with him a gift to bestow upon Hawai‘i’s King Kamehameha I in 1793. The Hawaiian royal was given a herd of cattle, from which grew the cherished tradition of cowboy and ranch culture that still thrives today. In 1803, an American, Richard Cleveland, was credited as being the first to gift horses to the present king. All accounts report that he brought a stallion and two mares (one with foal), and the rest is history. Several years thereafter, in 1832, King Kamehameha III took the first step that later spun into the paniolo (cowboy) culture that is prevalent throughout the Hawaiian Islands still to this day, particularly on the Big Island. The king tasked his high chiefs to journey to California to hire a trio of authentic Spanish vaquero to return with them to the Big Island and begin rounding up the cattle, while also teaching the locals how to handle the cattle and horses. And while horses were first utilized as helpers by Hawaiian ranchers in order to reign in cattle and provide labor for sustainable livelihood, the use of equines in the islands have since evolved into many areas of assistance for the people of Hawai‘i. Today, not only does Hawai‘i boast a thriving ranch community, but it also has a surprising wealth of horses that are actual healers. These days, through the practice of equine therapy, instead of wrangling cattle, some Big Island horses help individuals to harness emotions, break negative bonds, and heal their bodies and hearts. One specific program that provides certified equine therapy to island residents is the Therapeutic Horsemanship of Hawaii (THH), which has several branches operating throughout the islands. Nancy Bloomfield, who works with the Kona branch, was gracious enough to sit down with us and share a bit about just what her program—and its equine healers—are all about. When asked to give a nutshell version of THH, Bloomfield shares, “The program provides therapeutic riding and equine facilitated educational activities to Hawaiÿi Island’s population with special needs. Our community outreach program involves visits to schools, nursing homes, and other community programs, and participation in various community events, such as parades, fairs, and fundraisers with our two miniature horses, Peaches and Calypso.” THH branches are all affiliated with and certified by the Professional Association of Therapeutic Horsemanship (PATH) International, which Bloomfield explains is “the organization that provides credentialing for therapeutic riding programs.” Bloomfield goes on to describe THH-Kona’s specific niche of clientele: “THHKona is geared toward individuals with physical, intellectual, visual, social, behavioral, communication, and other functional challenges. Our riders range in age from 4 to 70. Participants build core strength,

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improve balance, learn fine and gross motor skills, develop listening skills and build confidence and self-esteem, improve even endurance and cardio/respiratory functions. In addition, they are participating in a therapeutic activity that is fun and socially inclusive.” According to famous psychologist Carl Jung, horses symbolize the natural forces that are mastered by human beings, and similar to how we harness a horse in order to ride it or to utilize its power, we can also harness our own energy in order to serve us, while improving ourselves and our lives. During her time with THH-Kona, Bloomfield has seen many life transformations thanks to the healing therapy of horses. “I have seen riders struggle with crutches or a walker to reach the mounting ramp to mount their horse, or riders assisted from their wheelchair onto the horse, who have then turned around and won a walking race on their horse. The horse’s legs become the rider’s legs, which put them on a level playing field with their peers. We also see riders who have no speech or communication skills, who will actually speak their first words on a horse.” Since the THH-Kona program doesn’t have its own facilities and is completely supported by volunteers, Bloomfield explains a little bit about their facilities, their schedule, and how they operate, “We operate out of Horseplay Equestrian Center on Sunday mornings, which is located in Honalo. We are an all-volunteer program and use volunteers as horse leaders and sidewalkers, as well as for our miniature horse visiting program.” She then explains, “Our riding sessions are all group sessions. With prior notice, we can sometimes accommodate guest participants if a group is not full, or often we can do an individual rider session after the end of our group sessions. Guest participants with certain disabilities may need to have physician’s clearance or, if they have been involved in a therapeutic riding program elsewhere, a summary of their riding skills and/or level of assistance needed is helpful.” As for how to volunteer, should the community or guests want to get involved, Bloomfield explains, “We have a formal volunteer training twice a year, but we do accept new volunteers in between trainings on the first Sunday of each month for an abbreviated orientation and training.” 96

There are also many opportunities to accompany the two miniature horses, Peaches and Calypso, as they venture out into the community on various outings to schools, nursing homes and other facilities. THH-Kona operates on Sunday mornings from 8:30 to 12:30 for its regular scheduled program, while Special Education classes can sometimes be accommodated for a special mounted riding session during the week if the facility is available. Miniature horse visits are scheduled on the 1st and 3rd Thursdays of the month. Michele Kinoshita, who helms the sister program in Waimea, also shared with us a bit about her work. “We are a non-profit organization, who work with children and adults with special needs on an appointment only basis. Our program is geared towards anyone who has a physical, mental or emotional disability, and participants have their doctors fill out our registration packet and return it to us.” The lessons are 30 minutes each, and include catching the horse, grooming the horse, and leading the horse into the arena, as well as riding and stretching.” Just like Bloomfield, Kinoshita has also seen amazing transformations that have resulted from her program. She shares one story that is near to her heart. “One specific client sticks out in my mind. He was a nonverbal, autistic young man, about 6 years old, who said his first words on a horse. His grandmother couldn’t stop crying, as she couldn’t believe what had happened.” According to Kinoshita, this is not an isolated incident. “We have seen so many instances of horses helping and changing our participants’ lives for the better.” Kinoshita adds, “Seeing the participants smiling, laughing, and enjoying this experience is what keeps us coming back. We see how empowering the experience is for them, and that’s the best reward for us.” For more information on the Kona and Waimea programs, as well as other THH branches, including programs on Oÿahu, visit www.thhwaimanalo. org. Yet another program that offers a wealth of equine therapy options is Kohala Youth Ranch. Run by Joe and Kelly Vitorino in Kapa‘au, this program offers free programs of equine-assisted psychotherapy (EAP) and equine-assisted learning (EAL) to qualified groups from Hawai‘i Island. For more information, visit www.kohalayouthranch.com. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


DESTINATIONS

EAST HAWAI‘I

FROM MAJESTIC WAIPI‘O VALLEY TO FIERY KĪLAUEA

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escend in time to historic Hilo and spend the day exploring the beautiful lush gardens, historical museums, tranquil waterfalls, original shops, galleries and restaurants. This charming coastal city by the bay known for its friendliness and diversity of residents receives nearly 130 inches of rain annually making it one of the wettest cities on the planet. Combine all the rain with some sunshine and rich volcanic soil and you have the makings of a tropical wonderland. In the distant past, Hilo Bay was used as a trading hub for ships of commerce including whaling ships and sugar transportation for early Hawaiians. Today the port is used for a different kind of commerce, tourism. Many visitors aboard the cruise ships come to explore the many attractions in or nearby this resilient little town that has survived two destructive tsunamis in 1946 and 1960. Learn what it was like to endure the deadly storms by visiting the Pacific Tsunami Museum and listen to the stories from the remarkable survivors. Famous for growing exceptional orchids and other tropical vegetation, Hilo has several botanical gardens to marvel at nature’s beauty.

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Wander through Lili‘uokalani Gardens, a 30acre, Japanese-style garden with pagodas, fishfilled ponds, half-moon bridges and a ceremonial teahouse. Designed to honor Hawai‘i’s first Japanese immigrants, it also offers a picturesque panoramic view of Hilo Bay. Take a stroll down Banyan Drive near the Hilo International Airport where celebrities including Babe Ruth, President Roosevelt and King George V all planted banyan tree saplings beginning in 1933. They have grown into a wonderful canopy providing welcoming shade on a sunny afternoon. Make time on either Wednesday or Saturday to visit Hilo Farmers Market featuring a wide variety of tropical flowers and delectable fruits and vegetables from over 200 vendors from all over the island. North of Hilo is the Hämäkua District surrounded by views of dramatic elevated coastlines, a stunning emerald jungle, flowing streams and waterfalls cascading down the sides of Mauna Kea. Take the time to visit the quaint towns of Honoka‘a and Laupahoehoe, former plantation towns, where traditional Hawaiian arts and history come alive. A few miles north of Honoka‘a is Waipi‘o Valley, with plummeting

waterfalls intersecting the explosion of lush tropical foliage on dramatic cliffs, it will make your top ten list of one of the most beautiful sights. The Puna District, south of Hilo, is a land of contrast and the fastest growing district on the island. Open lava fields and lush rainforests where numerous farmers grow everything from tropical plants, macadamia nuts and exotic fruits. Spend a day exploring the wonders of heated tidepools, natural springs, lava tubes, caves, black sand beaches and parks. Thirty minutes west of Hilo is home to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park with two active volcanoes and Pele, the fiery volcano goddess. Kïlauea, the world’s most active and most visited volcano, is best visited around sunset. Over half of the 330,000-acre park is designated wilderness and provides unique hiking and camping opportunities. Stop by the visitor center for eruption updates and the all important safety information. Wear comfortable shoes, bring a sweater, flashlight and plenty of water and be prepared to experience one of the most spectacular natural wonders of the world. 97


PRECIOUS PARADISE PROTECTING BIODIVERSITY FROM INVASIVE SPECIES WORDS COCO ZICKOS

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nakes sometimes slither their way to the Hawaiian Islands. They slip through the cracks and arrive as refugees on aircraft and vessels. Or, more likely, they are illegally smuggled as pets and accidentally escape, such as a 5-foot-long boa constrictor recently discovered on Oÿahu. Still, even if you suffer from ophidiophobia, a profound fear of snakes, there’s little cause for worry, as it’s highly unlikely you’ll come across any while you’re visiting any of the Hawaiian Islands. That’s because snakes are an invasive species and serious efforts and regulations are in place to mitigate their arrival in the state. The maximum penalty for bringing a snake to Hawai‘i is a Class C felony, $200,000 fine and up to three years in prison. The reason for these stringent penalties is because snakes have no natural predators in Hawai‘i and they pose a serious threat to the Islands’ rich and unique biodiversity, including endangered endemic birds. Knowing this information, you might be surprised to learn that the Hawaii Department of Agriculture (HDOA) plans to deliberately import four sterile male brown tree snakes to the Big Island. The reason, however, is due to efforts to prevent Hawaiÿi from suffering the same unfortunate fate as Guam. Scientists estimate that some 1 to 2 million brown snakes have taken over Guam, thereby diminishing its native species and inflicting a toll on its natural ecosystem. The snakes are predicted to have originally arrived via military aircraft and cargo during the 1950s. “The brown tree snake on Guam has caused the extinction of multiple bird species and has forever changed the balance of Guam’s ecosystems,” says Dr. Joshua Atwood, the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources’ (DLNR) Invasive Species Coordinator. 98

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On the other hand, the brown tree snakes that are headed to the Big Island will be used strictly for training purposes in a controlled setting. They will arrive at the Hawaii Detector Dog Program where terrier dogs will learn to pick up their scent in order to help find any future stowaways at ports of entry. “Detector dogs are an important biosecurity tool,” says Dr. Atwood. “Biosecurity is the set of measures taken to mitigate the impacts of invasive species. This includes any policy, funding or implementation actions that help prevent, detect or control invasive species.” Such actions are in place because if someone attempts to smuggle a reptile, insect or plant to the Islands, it puts the entire ecosystem at risk. “Invasive species that escape into the environment can have profound impacts and are very difficult to ever fully remove from Hawai‘i,” says Dr. Atwood. Humans are also responsible for the loss and degradation of Hawai‘i’s rich biodiversity due to the introduction of all kinds of non-native species brought intentionally or unintentionally to the Islands throughout the centuries, including ungulates like goats and cattle. They cause damage when they roam freely in the environment, crushing and consuming native flora. Moreover, land that was once filled with native species has since been cleared for agriculture, development and logging. Hawai‘i is the most isolated cluster of islands in the world, which makes its flora and fauna special. Millions of years ago, for example, only around 250 species of plants reached Hawai‘i by seed and subsequently evolved into about 1,300 native species. The isolation, however, makes endemic species extremely vulnerable and they are especially sensitive to habitat loss and invasive species. According to DLNR’s The Rain Follows the Forest Plan, loss of myhawaiitraveler.com

native biodiversity is a problem because the health of Hawai‘i’s forests is pertinent to the overall wellbeing of the entire ecosystem. “Hawaiÿi’s native forests can absorb moisture from rainfall and passing clouds that condense on the thick vegetation,” states the plan. “Protecting these forest areas is the most cost effective and efficient way to absorb rainwater and replenish groundwater.” Additionally, protecting native forests not only saves Hawaiÿi’s species, it prevents erosions and mud that slips into waterways impacting coral reef ecosystems and fisheries, as well as reduces greenhouse gas emissions. Moreover, native plants and animals are significant to Hawaiian culture—animals, such as pueo (Hawaiian short-eared owls) are highly revered as ÿaumakua (family gods) and plants are also regarded as manifestations of deities and are used for purposes including medicinal. “The plants and animals, regarded as elders and ancestors, evolved unique identities when they arrived and intertwined with the landscape and life forms of Hawaiÿi,” states The Rain Follows the Forest Plan. “The extinction of the unique inhabitants of the upland forests of the wao akua unravels the spiritual, as well as material vitality of Hawai‘i. Like water, they are irreplaceable.” Throughout the years, Hawaiÿi’s fragile environment has also endured the intentional, catastrophic release of predators into the wild like mongoose. The predators were allegedly introduced to Hawai‘i Island sugarcane fields during the 1800s to help eradicate rats. What farmers did not release beforehand is that rats are nocturnal and mongooses hunt during daylight hours. Therefore, mongooses have stuck to a diet that consists of native species, including sea turtle eggs and young birds. Mongooses, as well as feral cats and dogs, also threaten establishments of new populations of nënë (Hawaiian goose) on the 99


Big Island. Predator-proof pens are among the many mitigations the state is taking to combat these problems and protect the island’s birds from invasive carnivores. Other non-native species that arrived, more so as hitchhikers, include little fire ants, which are currently infesting areas of Oÿahu and Big Island. They were originally discovered on the Big Island in the 1990s and the threat and damage caused by the species continues to increase. “These ants threaten biodiversity, alter tropical ecosystems, impede agricultural productivity, mar horticultural sales and impede tourism,” writes Emma Yuen of DLNR’s Division of Forestry and Wildlife in an email. The Big Island Invasive Species Committee and the HDOA collaborate to control and monitor the situation, and Hawaii’s State Wildlife Action Plan also reduces the loss of biodiversity and combats other invasive species through ongoing endeavors, including early detection, rapid response and ongoing control or eradication. Sometimes, however, the state intentionally releases a nonnative predator into the wild as a form of biocontrol. That said, the action is not taken lightly. Thorough research is conducted to ensure safety prior to the release. An example of this was the release of the parasitoid wasp that helped control a gall wasp that was attacking native wiliwili (Erythrina sandwicensis) trees. “The Hawaii Department of Agriculture oversaw this process and likely saved the wiliwili tree from potential extinction,” says Dr. Atwood. Of course, there is always more to be done, but lack of staff and facilities makes it difficult. That’s why it’s important for everyone to understand how dangerous it is to bring invasive species to the Islands and why such regulatory efforts are in place. It’s why your luggage is thoroughly checked before arriving and why you can’t pack an orange in your carry-on while traveling to Hawaiÿi, much less a snake. So, if you happen to have the rare experience of stumbling across a snake, the best thing you can do is notify authorities. The creepy crawlers can be turned in to the HDOA office, Panaÿewa Rainforest Zoo and Gardens in Hilo, the Honolulu Zoo or any Humane Society. And because of the state’s Amnesty Program, they will not be euthanized. Also, pet owners can anonymously surrender their prohibited animals—no fines and no questions asked. Doing your part to help protect Hawaiÿi’s incomparable beauty and native biodiversity is easy. Minimal effort is required like cleaning hiking boots before entering a forest so as not to introduce invasive seeds into the area. To learn about other ways you can help and for more information, visit biisc.org. If you would like to report an illegal animal, please call (808) 643-7378. 100

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When people envision a perfect beach in Hawaiÿi,

one of the first images that likely comes to mind is pristine white or golden sand. With its famed black sand beaches, the Big Island offers a twist on this typical postcard image of Hawaiÿi. To stretch the imagination even further, if you venture out to the windswept southern shore of the Big Island, you can find a beach with an even more unlikely shade of sand—olive green. The official name of this extraordinary beach is Papakölea, but it is commonly referred to as Green Sand Beach. Green Sand Beach is located in a remote part of the island near Ka Lae, the southernmost tip of the Big Island. It is not easy to get to Papakölea, but if you make the trek, you’ll find yourself at one of only four green sand beaches in the world. The others are located in Guam, Galapagos Islands and Norway. The main way to access this beach with the least environmental impact is via a 2.5-mile hike (one-way). It is a rugged and exposed stretch of land where the winds can be exceptionally strong. If you plan to hike, prepare for a sunny, arid trek with the possibility of high winds that whip up the dirt. In the event that you are unable to do the hike or if you just prefer to catch a ride, local folks with fourwheel drive vehicles are often around providing an unofficial shuttle service. Prices may vary depending on how much the drivers decide to charge, so if there is any chance you think you will want to hop on one of these unofficial shuttles, make sure to have enough cash on hand. Due to the rugged nature of the landscape, it is not recommended that visitors attempt to drive themselves all the way to the beach, even if they have rented a four-wheel drive vehicle. Because of the increased popularity of this unique beach, concerns have been raised about the wear and tear on the terrain of the area and damage to cultural sites due to the numerous off-road vehicles that drive through the area each day. In 2018, a plan was developed by the Department of Hawaiian Home Lands to better regulate this area after an environmental assessment determined that vehicles are having a negative impact on the landscape. While there are no updates about when or if the plan will move forward, it is possible that there may eventually be a gate, a charge for parking, and a ban on vehicles driving all the way to the beach. The goal would be to allow the land to recover and to put the funds acquired from the parking fee towards developing a walking trail and services such as bathrooms and signage. myhawaiitraveler.com

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Regardless of how you get to the beach, there are currently no services in this area, so if you go, you’ll need to bring ample water, a supply of food, and bags to carry out your trash. Sun protection is also a must as there is no shade at the beach or along the way to the beach. Sturdy shoes are recommended whether or not you plan to hike due to a steep and a potentially slippery walk from the top of the cliff down to the beach. One of the local concerns about visitors at this beach is the potential damaging effects of sunscreen on the ocean’s ecosystem. If you’re planning to get into the water, consider wearing reef safe sunscreen or UV protective swimwear. Currents can be strong in this part of the island, so if you plan to get in the water, check ocean conditions ahead of your visit. There are no lifeguards here, so if in doubt, stay out. Aside from unusual shade of Papakölea’s sand, one of the first things you’ll notice when you arrive at this beach is its distinctly semi-circular shape. This comes from the beach’s origin as a volcanic cinder cone called Puÿu o Mahana that formed on the flanks of Mauna Loa. The sand at this beach gets its shade of green from olivine, a mineral that lines the walls of the cinder cone. The ocean waves erode the olivine and create the green sand. It may be tempting to take a scoop of Papakölea sand home as a souvenir, but it is illegal to do so. Leave the sand at the beach and walk away with vivid memories of the stunning cliffs, the waves, and of course, the sparkling green sand. 104

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HIT THE BEACH

KOHALA ‘ANAEHO‘OMALU BEACH (A-BAY)

A-Bay is a lovely, crescent beach with salt-and-pepper sand ideal for sail boarding, windsurfing, swimming and catching a perfect sunset. Palm trees separate the Pacific from the ancient fishponds and petroglyph fields. The water is usually calm so it makes a good family beach. You can walk south on a path upon entrance of the beach to find more private white sand beaches. Equipment rental, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Waikoloa Beach Dr across from the Kings’ Shops. Follow signs to beach.

HĀPUNA BEACH STATE RECREATION AREA

Splendid large white sand beach with clear turquoise water is great for swimming, snorkeling and body boarding. See Maui’s Haleakalä across the big blue Pacific. It’s crowded on the weekends and shade is scarce so plan accordingly. Be careful of the strong rip currents. Lifeguard, picnic areas, snack stand, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 adjacent to Häpuna Beach Prince Hotel with plenty of parking spaces. myhawaiitraveler.com

KAUNA‘OA BEACH

A nationally-ranked beautiful, white sand crescent beach fringed with palms and naupäka is a great place for swimming and snorkeling due to the gradually sloping sandy bottom, except during heavy winter surf. Get there early since public parking passes are limited. Lifeguard, restrooms and showers are available. Located through the entry gate to Mauna Kea Beach Resort off Hwy 19.

KA‘ŪPŪLEHU BEACH

Beautiful scenic white sand beach, with clear, calm water and resting sea turtles. There are fantastic tidepools and a breakwater in front of the hotel making it a great place to swim. Restrooms and showers are available. Located through the gate to the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai off Hwy 19.

KĒŌKEA BEACH PARK

Swim with extreme caution since this charming secluded rocky beach park with its cliff-rimmed cove and green lawn lined with palm trees is often plagued by high wind and high surf. Spearfishing and fishing are excellent, but swimming can be hazardous. Camping, picnic areas, restrooms and showers are

available. Located off Hwy 270, near Pololü overlook about 6 miles past Häwï. Follow the sign onto the curvy road ~1 mile; past the cemetery.

MĀHUKONA BEACH PARK

Former shipping port for the sugar industry is now littered with underwater debris making this quiet beach park a great snorkeling site. The once useful machineries now lying at the bottom of the sea can easily be seen through the clear water. Swimming can be dangerous due to the heavy surf and no sandy beach for entrance (there’s a ladder off the old dock). Camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270 north of Koai‘e Cove State Underwater Park between mile markers #14 and #15.

SPENCER BEACH PARK

Nice sandy white beach is great for swimming, snorkeling and picnics year-round. It is popular with families due to the reef-protected, gently sloping sandy bottom. Volleyball and basketball courts, camping, restrooms, and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270, ~ 1 mile uphill of Kawaihae Harbor within walking distance of Pu‘ukoholä Heiau. 105


WAIALEA BAY OR “69” BEACH

Named for the utility pole marker, this is a lovely white sand beach with crystal clear blue water great for swimming and snorkeling due to its sandy bottom and gradual drop off. Snorkeling is great around the rocky outcropping inside the bay, but the best snorkeling is in the southern portion where depths range from 10 to 30 feet. Mostly the water is super clear, but periodic freshwater invasion by an intermittent stream reduces surface visibility. Exercise caution during the winter months due to high surf. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 ~5 miles south of Kawaihae, south of Häpuna Beach. Turn onto Puako Beach Dr., next take first right onto Old Puakö Road and park between pole #71 and #72.

NORTH KONA KEKAHA KAI STATE PARK

A 1,642 acre coastal state park with some of the best beaches on the island. Mahai‘ula Beach is an exquisite white sand beach great for swimming and snorkeling in the well-protected bay. About a 30-minute walk north of Mahai‘ula Beach is Makalawena Beach, one of the most stunning beaches on the island, with silky white sand and beautiful crystal clear turquoise water with sand dunes and trees as a backdrop and shoreline made up of intricate coves. Located ~2 miles north of Kona International Airport off Hwy 19 between mile marker #90 and #91, take rough 1 ½ mile road to beach.

KUA BAY BEACH PARK

Gorgeous, pristine white sand beach great for swimming is part of the Kekaha Kai State Park. Restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 19 across West Hawai‘i Veteran’s Cemetery ~5 miles north of the Kona Airport.

HONOKŌHAU BEACH

Long, narrow strand of white sand beaches north of the harbor with several protected pools bordered by a lagoon is excellent for swimming and snorkeling. Ai‘opio Beach is a sandy beach with crystal clear water and green sea turtles north of the harbor with protected swimming areas and ‘Alula Beach is a small white sandy crescent beach south of the harbor offering good snorkeling and offshore scuba diving. Kaloko Beach has great snorkeling with sea arches. The beaches are part of the Kaloko-Honoköhau National Park located off Hwy 19. Take turn onto Hohoköhau Small Boat Harbor or visit the park headquarters between mile marker #96 and #97.

OLD KONA AIRPORT PARK

The beach has a sandy inlet with tide pools. Snorkeling and diving are good. Be careful of sharp coral and lava rock when entering the water. Picnic area, tennis courts, jogging path, restrooms and showers are available. Located at the north end of Kuakini Rd off Hwy 19.

WĀWĀLOI BEACH PARK

Fascinating collection of tide pools and sandy beach is a great spot for kids and for exploring nearby secluded beaches. The beach is protected by a natural lava 106

barrier for enjoyable swimming. Pine Trees, a popular surf spot, is nearby; swimming is not recommended. Picnic tables, grills, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 north of Kona Airport close to mile marker #94; follow signs for Natural Energy Lab.

SOUTH KONA HO‘OKENA BEACH PARK

Grey sand beach good for swimming, snorkeling and bodysurfing. Water shoes are recommended for this beach. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 past 101 mile marker near Place of Refuge; follow signs.

KAHALU‘U BEACH PARK

Salt and pepper beach fringed with palms is most popular for swimming, snorkeling and fishing. This dark sandy beach is one of the best spots for snorkeling on the island with an abundance and variety of colorful reef fish and sea life. Beware of high surf and rip currents. Picnic area, restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. next to mile marker #5.

KAMAKAHONU BAY

The name means “eye of the turtle”. The beach is a sliver of white sand that is popular with families for swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Located next to King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel adjacent to busy Kailua Pier on Ali‘i Dr.

MILOLI‘I BEACH PARK

Tidepools and patches of beach with protecting reefs make for great swimming and snorkeling. Near an ancient fishing village destroyed by lava flow in 1927 alive with old traditions. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 ~33 miles south of Kailua near mile marker #88.

NĀPŌ‘OPO‘O BEACH PARK

Located in Kealakekua Bay Marine reserve where spinner dolphins swim close to shore, spectacular for snorkeling, diving and boat tours in the clear, calm pristine bay. Colorful reef fish are plentiful in the welldeveloped reef. Black rocky beach with a steep incline makes ocean access risky, however there is a short pier at the left side of the parking lot. Across the bay, a 27foot white obelisk represents where Captain Cook was killed in 1779. Located off Hwy 11; exit Kealakekua Bay just south of milemarker 111. Beach is at the end of Näpö‘opo‘o Rd., turn right at the end of the road.

LA‘ALOA BEACH PARK

a.k.a. Magic Sands, White Sands or Disappearing Sands because the beach disappears during high surf months and returns in the spring. Gets crowded with body and board surfers. One of the best surfing spots is just north at Banyans. Restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. ~ 4 ½ miles south of Kailua.

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SAND + SURF REEDS BAY PARK

Banyan-lined cove offers excellent swimming in calm waters, but freshwater spring from the bottom keeps the water cold, a.k.a. the Ice Pond. Picnic areas, restrooms, showers, and camping are available. Located at the end of Banyan Drive.

PUNA-KA‘Ū KEHENA BEACH PARK

Lovely black sand beach with coconut and ironwood trees offers shade and nice backdrop. Swimming can be rough because of the strong rip currents, but it’s a great place to watch dolphins and turtles. The secluded location of the beach also draws nude sunbathers. Located off Hwy 137 about 5 miles south of MacKenzie State Recreation Area, park by other cars and take the well-worn path to beach.

GREEN SAND (PAPAKŌLEA) BEACH

Green crystals sparkle like jewels in the sun next to a magnificent turquoise sea in this unusual, most beautiful crescent beach formed during an early eruption of Mauna Loa. Swimming can be dangerous and there are no facilities, but once you kick off your tennis shoes and have a refreshing soak, you will appreciate the awesomeness of nature’s gift. Take Hwy 11 to South Point Rd in Ka‘ü and go south 12 miles. From here, continue NE on the dirt road to the boat launch and hike the final two miles to this majestic beach.

MACKENZIE STATE RECREATION AREA

HĀMĀKUA KOLEKOLE BEACH PARK

Fabulous place to picnic, fish and explore the underthe-bridge park with abundant tropical foliage and waterfalls. The Kolekole stream is fed from ‘Akaka Falls and flows into the ocean. Do not attempt to swim at the mouth of the river or enter the ocean at this spot because the rough, strong currents and rocky bottom makes it dangerous. Restrooms, showers and picnic areas are available. Located off Hwy 19 about 12 miles NW of Hilo between ‘Akaka and Umauma Falls.

LAUPĀHOEHOE POINT BEACH PARK

Swimming, snorkeling and surfing can be good, but heavy surf makes it dangerous at times. Site of the 1946 tidal wave offers good fishing and beautiful park. Picnic areas, camping, restrooms, showers and electricity are available. Located ~1 mile off Hwy 19 down a well-marked twisting road.

HILO COCONUT ISLAND BEACH PARK

Local family favorite for swimming, fishing, picnicking and tide pools. Shallow pools with sandy bottoms make this beach keiki (kid) friendly. Nice shade provided by coconut and ironwood trees. Located next to the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel on Banyan Drive, cross the footbridge.

JAMES KEALOHA BEACH PARK

Good snorkeling, swimming, surfing, spearfishing and throw-netting. Best to swim and snorkel on the east myhawaiitraveler.com

side of the beach since it’s more protected than the west side, which can be rough with strong currents during high surf. Picnic areas, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19, ~3 miles east of Hilo.

HONOLI‘I BEACH PARK

Sandy beach is popular local spot for surfing and boogie boarding on the eastern coast. Strong surf makes swimming difficult. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 at Alae Point.

LELEIWI BEACH PARK

Scenic park with series of inlets, coves and tide pools. It’s a good place to scuba dive. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~4 miles east of Hilo.

ONEKAHAKAHA BEACH PARK

Good family beach with a protected, white sand beach and tidepools. Picnic pavilions, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~3 miles east of Hilo.

RICHARDSON OCEAN PARK

Black sand beach fringed with coconut palms and ironwood trees. Lava outcroppings give swimmers somewhat protection and makes for good snorkeling. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~5 miles east of Hilo.

Beautiful 13-acre coastal park located in a breezy, cool ironwood grove along a rocky coastline. Small sea arches and lava tube openings are visible along the coastline cliffs. Swimming is not recommended due to the sea cliff that borders the park, but good shore fishing exists. Beware of occasionals high waves that break on the ledges. Picnic tables, camping and restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 137, 9 miles NE of Kaimü.

PUNALU‘U BLACK SAND BEACH PARK

Palm trees line this inviting lagoon where green sea turtles rest on the black sand, good swimming beach and easily accessible. Near the boat ramp at the northern end of the beach lie the ruins of a heiau and a flat sacrificial stone. Restrooms and camping are available. Nearby is Ninole Cove, a small beach with a grassy area and lagoon good for swimming. Located on Hwy 11, 27 miles south of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

WHITTINGTON BEACH PARK

Picturesque scenic park rich with vibrant colors and history. Not much of a beach, but a great place to take photographs and explore the stunning views of the park and the wharf built in 1883 to move sugar, then destroyed by the 1946 tsunami. Swimming is not recommended in the ocean due to strong currents, high surf and rocky shoreline. Fishing is popular with the locals on the weekends. Picnic area, restrooms, electricity and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 across from the abandoned sugar mill. 107


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CALENDAR

ISLAND EVENTS ONGOING FREE TUESDAY TROT: 5K FUN RUN & WALK (Tuesdays) - Each Tuesday throughout the year anyone can join Historic Kailua Village’s Tuesday Trot 5K Fun Run and Walk. Big Island Running Company coordinates non-competitive free weekly fun runs, which begins at their Aliÿi Drive store location at 5pm, turn around at Makaeo Pavilion (Old Airport), and return to the point of origin. Visitors, residents, children, anyone and everyone are invited to join the community camaraderie and help promote active, healthy lifestyles. Contact Melissa (808) 327-9333. KINGS’ SHOPS FARMERS MARKET (Wednesdays) - In close proximity to many of the Kohala Coast resorts, this boutique-style farmers market is convenient for the communities on the western coast of the island. Located throughout the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, purchase fresh and affordable produce in a tropical setting. Sample fresh and dried fruits from Hawaiian Rainbow Farms, or purchase some of their handcrafted Hula Hands natural soap. Palani French Bakers features classic and crusty French baguettes, brioche, artisanal breads and fresh pastries. It’s the perfect breakfast option that pairs excellently with the flavors of Honomu Jams & Jellies; try their organic goods made with all natural ingredients from over 100 varieties of fruit and vegetables. Once you’ve enjoyed all the market has to offer, take advantage of great dining and shopping at the various restaurants and retailers from trendy boutiques to luxury brands at the Kings’ Shops premier shopping center. Farmers Market is open from 8:30am to 2:30pm. PORTUGUESE STONE OVEN BREAD BREAKING (Thursdays) - Take part in this historical recreation—making, and then baking traditional sweet bread in a wood-fired oven called a forno, the type used by Portuguese immigrants who came to Hawai‘i in the 1800s. This is a unique, tasty, and hands-on experience! Free. The baking event is from 10am-1pm; around 12:30pm to 1pm is when the first batch of beautiful brown bread comes out of the oven. The loaves ($8) are first come, first served, and sold straight out of the oven until sold out. Kona Historical Society (808) 323-3222. TWILIGHT AT KALAHUIPUA‘A (Saturdays, closest to full moon) - Each month when the full moon rises, Mauna Lani hosts an enchanted evening of storytelling 110

and entertainment on the lawn of the resort’s oceanfront Eva Parker Woods Cottage. Join Mauna Lani’s Cultural Historian, Danny Kaniela Akaka, as he leads guests in sharing stories, songs and dance. The event perpetuates the traditional folk art of storytelling and provides a chance to experience the true Aloha Spirit. The oceanfront location is the piko (spiritual center) of the resort’s ancient Hawaiian fishponds, making it the perfect venue under the full moon. Twilight dates are subject to change. 5:30pm. Free. Please contact Mauna Lani Concierge at (808) 881-7911 to confirm date. KOKUA KAILUA (Monthly) - One Sunday each month from 1pm to 6pm, oceanfront Aliÿi Drive along scenic Kailua Bay in Historic Kailua Village becomes a festive pedestrian-only walkway and marketplace. Enjoy free music, artists, and friendly merchants for great shopping and delicious dining. At 4pm, there is free Hawaiian entertainment on the lawn at Huliheÿe Palace honoring Hawaiian royalty. Bring your own mat or chair and they will be checked for free while you stroll Aliÿi Drive. Shop, dine, and buy local! Call (808) 936-9202 or visit HistoricKailuaVillage.com. MAY ORCHID SHOW, PLANT & CRAFT SALE (May 10-11)- Annual Mothers Day Show & Sale from the Kona Orchid Society.at the event pavilion in the ‘Old Airport Park’ in Kailua- Free to public. See exotic orchid species and exciting new hybrids. Talk with vendors from all over the island. Many handmade craft items and fine arts from our island. Pottery, ceramics, real flower jewelry, nurturing gemstones and jewelry, anthurium flowers and plants, fine art, greeting cards, photography, cactus & succulent plants, dragon fruit plants, protea plants & flowers, air plants, herbs, tropical plants, fruit trees and more. Visit KonaOrchidSociety.org for more information. 41ST ANNUAL VISITOR INDUSTRY CHARITY WALK (May 11) - The public is invited to participate in the annual Visitor Industry Charity Walk and preserve this tradition of sharing and kökua. Anyone can participate! In fact, invite your family, friends, neighbors, clients, classmates, club members, and anyone who’s interested to join us for a morning of food, fun, fabulous local entertainment, and a little exercise to help Hawaiÿi’s local charities. And with all the great food and fun, the Charity Walk is the only one in Hawaiÿi where you can actually gain weight

by raising money for a great cause. Location is Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa. Runners start at 6:45am. Walkers start at 7am. For more info, call Bambi at (808) 886-8128 or visit HawaiiLodging.org/charity-walk.html. ROBERT CAZIMERO (May 11) Robert Cazimero is considered to be one of the most respected kumu hula of Hawaiian dance and will be at the Kahilu Theatre. His elegant voice is so distinctive that he is instantly recognized, compelling people to listen. Robert’s passion and talent have played a huge role in taking Hawaiian music and dance to stages, from Japan and Moscow to Carnegie Hall and the Hollywood Bowl, with hula being an integral part of his shows. Join us in celebrating Robert’s 33-year unbroken tradition of performing on the Kahilu Stage in beautiful Kamuela. Call (808) 8856868 or visit KahiluTheatre.org. 2ND ANNUAL HAWAII KUAULI PACIFIC & ASIA CULTURAL FESTIVAL (May 17-19) -A celebration of Hawaiÿi Island and its beauty as a cultural melting pot. This 3-day event will be packed with food, fashion, cultural expressions, a keiki hula competition and cultural workshops. The event begins Friday with protocol from the various cultures represented. Saturday is filled with a wearable arts fashion show, arts & crafts demonstrations and the first annual Hawaii Kuauli keiki hula competition. Sunday is a wonderful day of cultural workshops and education. The festival is a culturally based experience for both local residents and visitors. It is organized as a combined multi-generational effort including members of the community from all spheres of influence - providing them with a platform to showcase the gifts and talents of those cultures present in Hawaiÿi. Presentations of cultural dance expression, culturally based education programs, food, music, fashion, art and traditional arts & crafts workshops. At Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Visit www.hikuauli.com for more info or call (808) 3318265. MAY/JUNE 8TH ANNUAL BIG ISLAND JAZZ AND BLUES FESTIVAL (May 30-June 2)- Mauna Kea Beach Hotel presents an amazing weekend of jazz. The series of concerts include performances by awardwinning artists and legends including multiple Grammy and Blues Winners, Jazz & Blues Legends. Events all weekend including a Sunday Jazz Brunch at the beautiful Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. Visit BigIslandJazzAndBluesFestival.com. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER


JUNE IRONMAN 70.3 HAWAI‘I (June 1) - Nicknamed Honu, in honor of the Hawaiian green sea turtle, the Ironman 70.3 Hawaiÿi offers competitors a beautiful venue. It starts with an open-ocean swim and follows with a challenging course along the northern half of the Ironman World Championship bike course. The hot and sunny run starts and finishes at the beautiful Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast and winds its way through the Mauna Lani Resort over modern golf greens, past ancient petroglyph fields and fishponds, and the historic Ala Loa Foot trail. The post-race lawn party at The Fairmont Orchid is worth making it to the finish line. The host hotel goes all out to feed the hungry athletes, but the real dessert is the championship slot allocations at the end of the day. After the race, the island offers competitors a vacation playground with a variety of natural wonders to explore, including rain forests, waterfalls, active volcanoes, black sand beaches, and abundant marine life. Email hawaii70.3@ironman.com for more information. KING KAMEHAMEHA DAY CELEBRATION PARADE, KAILUA-KONA (June 8) - The annual King Kamehameha Day Celebration Parade in Historic Kailua Village honors the great aliÿi, King Kamehameha I, who established the first capital of the united Hawaiian Kingdom in Kailua-Kona at Kamakahonu. Parade participants include regal päÿü riders on horseback, hula hälau, equestrian units, marching bands, horse-drawn carriages and more. After the parade, enjoy a hoÿolauleÿa (music and art festival) at Hulihe‘e Palace, including a free concert featuring Hawaiian recording artists. Then take time to visit the many shops, galleries and historic landmarks of Historic Kailua Village. Parade starts at 9am. KonaParade.org.

features a wild and wacky rubber duckie race at Kings’ Lake at the Kings’ Shops Waikoloa with food booths, live entertainment and lots of exciting activities culminating in a spectacular fireworks display. Beach chairs and mats welcome. No coolers please. This is an alcohol and drug free event benefiting United Cerebral Palsy Association of Hawaiÿi. Visit WaikoloaBeachResort.com. JULY/AUGUST 60TH HAWAIIAN INTERNATIONAL BILLFISH TOURNAMENT DIAMOND JUBILEE (July 27-Aug. 4) - The Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament (HIBT), founded in 1959, is the second oldest big game sport fishing event in the world. HIBT is a 5-day tournament built on prestige, trophies and strict International Game Fish Association rules for big game fish world records and does not include cash prizes. Along with five full days of sport fishing, HIBT offers daily activities for family members traveling including hiking, snorkeling and sightseeing. Other tournament events include the new Opening Ceremony, the official recognition of teams from around the world; daily weigh-ins at

Kailua Pier attracting hundreds of spectators. Call (808) 836-3422 or visit www.hibtfishing.com for more info. AUGUST/SEPTEMBER QUEEN LILI‘UOKALANI LONG DISTANCE CANOE RACES (Aug. 29-Sept. 2) - The Queen Liliÿuokalani Long Distance Canoe Races have been held annually since 1971. Hosted by Kai Opua Canoe Club over the Labor Day holiday, this is the world’s largest long distance canoe race. The women’s and men’s 18-mile races follow a historically and culturally significant course running between Kamakahonu Beach in Kailua Bay and Puÿuhonua O Hönaunau National Historic Park. Other races include double-hull canoe races, SUP races, OC1 and OC2 races, and teen long distance races. QLCR events also include the Historic Walking Tour through Kailua Village, International Paddlers Night, Paddling Talk Story, the Torch Light Parade, award ceremonies, and a traditional Hawaiian lüÿau. Visit QLCanoeRace.com. All events are subject to change. Go to www. myhawaiitraveler.com for more special events.

KAHILU THEATRE a r t s • e nt e r t a i n m e nt • e d u c at io n

KING KAMEHAMEHA DAY CELEBRATION (June 11) - Kamehameha Day is recognized as a state holiday throughout Hawaiÿi, but North Kohala is a very special place to celebrate. Kamehameha I was born in North Kohala, where residents played a prominent role in saving his life as an infant. Although North Kohala is a small community, each year on June 11th it puts forth a large grassroots effort to present a full day of celebration and tribute to King Kamehameha I. Visitors are welcomed to take part in this unique local event. All events are free. Visit KamehamehaDayCelebration.org. JULY GREAT WAIKOLOA RUBBER DUCKIE RACE & 4TH OF JULY EXTRAVAGANZA (July 4) - An all-day, fun-filled family event myhawaiitraveler.com

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